When trouble comes and you are required to re-locate, there may not
be time to try to find, organize and then pack your emergency gear.
Just the stress of an emergency situation alone can keep you from thinking
clearly enough to gather and pack all you might need. Getting
your gear ready in advance can minimize this problem. Over
the years I have developed a system in which I assemble “Field
Kits” for my outdoor and emergency equipment and supplies. This
allows me to keep my stuff organized and ready for future use. I assemble
the kits with items needed and then I inventory the contents and I
keep a copy on file as well as a copy in the kit. That way I know what
I have in there two years down the road and I also know if any of the
contents have a shelf life – they have been dated and a periodic
inspection of the list allows you to know if an item (such as Aspirin)
should be replaced or not. In the following paragraphs I will share
my experience with building and using these kits including the number
of years that I have employed each different kit.
I have assembled and used the following special purpose kits
as described in the following paragraphs:
Bug Out Bag (BOB): I won’t write much detail
about this type of kit because most of you know about these. (If not,
do a Google search
to get good contents lists etc., ) I use mostly backpacks for this
purpose rather than a shoulder bag because I know if I have to carry
the kit very far - a backpack is going to be much less fatiguing on
my body than carrying the weight in my hands or on one shoulder or
the other. I have a BOB backpack for everyone in my household, plus
a few smaller spares. One thing I would recommend here though is to
have an essentials kit within the larger full kit. For an example,
a small pack inside the main compartment or attached to the outside
of the large pack. (JWR recommends this.) In my main Emergency Backpack – I
have a small but rigid Italian military pack that can be slid right
out the top in the case that I am injured and can’t carry the
large pack or if I am escaping some danger but have to move fast uphill – I
can pull the little pack out and go. The little pack has all the essentials:
plastic tarp, fire starters, water, a little food, flashlight, rope,
compass, knife and so on. (I made my first “survival kit” as
a Boy Scout in the 1970s, but this mentioned pack has been in place
since 1993. I have field tested the overall pack.)
Rifle Kit: The rifle kit is a kit made specifically
for a certain rifle. It can contain 6-to-12 spare magazines, spare
parts, and cleaning
kit,
gun oil and lubes, and perhaps 140 to 300 rounds of ammunition that
that rifle is sighted in for. These are usually made from the common “mini-range
bags” that have 6 magazine pouch pockets on the outer sides,
and has both handles and a heavy shoulder strap. They can be purchased
for as little as $7.95. I buy the black or O.D. green
colored bags. (Used these since 1998) [JWR Adds: For
these kits (rifle of shotgun accessories) I recommend that you
use duffle bag that
is big enough to accommodate a full set of web gear--complete with
belt, suspenders or vest (LC-1, MOLLE,
or perhaps set of the nice Tactical Tailor type suspenders if
you have a big budget), magazine pouches, and and canteen for each long
gun. IMHO no long gun is truly tactically functional unless you
have a proper set of web gear--full of magazines--to go with it.]
Pistol Kit: The pistol kit is similar to the rifle
kit – being
made specifically for a certain pistol. It can contain 6-to-10 spare
magazines, spare parts, and cleaning kit, and perhaps 100 to 300 rounds
of ammunition
that is known to work well in that pistol. These are made up from the
same common 6 magazine pouch “mini-range bags” that have
both handles and a heavy shoulder strap. (Used since 1998)
Rifle Range Kits: When heading to the rifle range,
I take two kits I have prepared for that purpose. One is a toolbox,
which holds most
of my gun cleaning supplies and a few tools for adjusting sights, and
for small repairs at the range. The second Range Kit is a shoulder
bag, which holds all my paper targets, a stapler, and spare staples
for mounting targets. It also holds my foam earplugs and my hearing
protector headsets, range notepad/log, pens, and so on. Add your rifle,
ammo and some lunch and you are ready for a day at the range. (Used
since 1990)
Auto Kits: For my vehicles, I maintain multiple kits:
(1) Emergency
Road Kit in medium large Tupperware tub – jumper cables,
flares, mechanics suit, space blanket, flashlight, etc. (2) In another
medium
large Tupperware tub is my Spare Parts and Repair Kit including
hoses, belts, bulbs, fuses, radiator sealant, tire repair plug kit
with spark
plug adapter hose to fill tires, distributor cap and rotor. And for
my 4WD I might include
a spare water pump, alternator, starter and fuel pump. (3) A full tool
set in a heavy-duty box. (4) Field
Tool Kit - in my 1/2 ton 4-wheel drive Suburban I have made
an additional long wood box (approximately 70” long, x 8” wide,
x 17” high),
which has small wheels on one end and a heavy duty cargo handle on
the other end. It is tall but narrow and can hold all my field tools
which include my high-lift jack, 1 or 2 come-alongs, 2 shovels, an
ax, a hatchet, backpacking snow shovel, crowbar, tow strap, and large
and small bow saws with extra blades. The top is held on with a window
type latch on both hands and once the handle end is released the lid
comes right off. You can pull a shovel from out the top or roll the
box to the edge of the tailgate and set it on the ground. The wheels
allow for you to roll the box all the way to the end of the tailgate
before lifting out and you can also roll it across smooth ground for
a short distance. This box is stained wood and coated with a sealer
to minimize weather effects. (5) The Tire Chains Kit can
be kept in a separate kit - a wooden box, plastic crate or in heavy
canvas bags.
Keep your
chain tension devices in with the chains as well. (Parts of this kit
used since 1992, but the wooden field box was built and employed in
fall of 2005)
Chain Saw Kits: My chainsaw kit is two parts, the
first being a chainsaw case with my saw, chain oil, 2-stroke oil, and
funnel, spare spark
plugs and tools. The second part is another Tupperware tub with pre-mixed
fuel can, extra 2-stroke oil, and a large container of chain oil, heavy
gloves and hearing protectors. I have not purchased extra chains or
bars yet but they are on my purchase list and will be added to one
of these two kits in the near future. (Used since 2004) [JWR
Adds: I also strongly recommend buying a pair of Kevlar chainsaw
safety chaps.]
Financial and Personal Papers Kit: This kit is composed
of a medium-small fanny pack, which includes identification, passport,
contact information
(phone lists, account information), and some pre-1965 90% silver coins
for emergency purchases or bartering. Also tucked into this little
fanny
pack are a "P-38" [key ring type] can opener, a small lightweight
Gerber pocketknife, butane lighter and a small flashlight. For those
that are so inclined,
you can
add other items such as precious metals, cash, a small pistol or whatever
else will fit and you are willing to legally carry. (Used since 1998)
First Aid Kits: My first aid kits are in many sizes. I have the mini-kits
in all the backpacks, and then I have some Auto Size kits in the vehicles,
then a field medic’s medium, shoulder carry kit for field use.
Then, the mega-kit that has all the extra supplies, field medical books
and extra medicines in it. This is a large gym bag sized bag which
is red in color. I also have a yellow and purple (magenta) bag of the
same size, which holds my chemical masks, extra filters, potassium
iodide, gloves, shoe covers, and wipes, etc. for chemical or nuclear
emergencies. (I've had these kits in place since 1999)
Winter Survival Kit: This kit is added to the vehicles
that I am driving during the winter and it is a “per-person” type
kit. I include insulated over-pants (or insulated coveralls) with leg
zippers,
incase you have
to do some work outside or walk in the cold weather beyond what you
would be comfortable without long johns. A sleeping bag, a heavy wool
blanket, a stocking cap, heavy work gloves with liners, a lofty poly-pro
pullover, and a heavy coat or parka. Along with the extra clothing
here, a sleeping pad, tarp or tent, and some field foods (two MREs,
a can or two of mixed nuts, a few power bars, some chocolate bars,
a
large bottle of Gatorade and a gallon of water) are added to this kit.
(Used since 1998)
Communications /Electronics (GPS) kit: This kit is
composed of the small size (.30 caliber) ammo cans which are used singularly
by themselves
or if two cans are used they can be tucked inside a heavy outdoor carry
bag with shoulder strap. Inside the ammo cans I keep my FRS radios,
a portable CB radio, headsets,
operating manuals and fresh extra batteries. I also keep my GPS and
12 VDC auto adapter
in the cans when not in use. This kit is carried in my vehicle on camping
and hunting expeditions
or other field trips. In addition, in the very large size ammo cans
(measures approximately 15” x 10” x 25”), I have
my spare CB radios, and other electronic equipment [to provide them
protection from EMP. The
large cans I keep in
the
garage
and they are grounded to an outdoor water pipe since they are stationary.
(Used since 1999)
Fire Starting Kit: This kit can be as simple as a small cardboard box,
which has enough dry tinder in a heavy duty zip-lock bag to start a
fire in bad /wet weather. Included here should be some homemade or
commercial fire starters, candles, safety-flares, etc, (I will save
the details for another article). I keep my fire starting kit with
my camping stuff and pack it in with my gear for the late fall hunting
trips. (Used since 1986)
Camp Kitchen Kit: The Camp Kitchen Kit is a ready
to go complete kitchen other than the food and it’s all packed
into one box. It has stainless eating utensils (silverware) for 10
people. Over several
years I found a number of stainless steel pots of slightly different
sizes that will all fit together into one stack in my plastic kitchen
box with folding lids. I also have a plastic pitcher, which I fill
with the silverware, plastic re-usable plates, cups and bowls. I have
a small grill to place over rocks, a coffee pot, several large serving
spoons, spatulas, and kitchen knives. I have a roll of heavy duty aluminum
foil, plastic wrap, half gallon baggies, and a whole box of strike
anywhere matches, a long neck lighter, bar soap, a small bottle of
dish soap, wash cloth, hand towel, and steel wool and copper scrub
pads. Salt, pepper and other spices are included along with paper towels,
coffee filters and about 60 paper plates. All of this fits nicely into
my heavy-duty plastic kitchen box. (Used since 1988) I have a second
box, which goes on some excursions – this kit
has a large Dutch oven with lid, a lid lifting handle, a cast iron
skillet and a manual coffee
grinder. I keep at least two bags of charcoal (and some lighter fluid) on hand
for the Dutch oven. (Used since 2003)
Notes on Kitchen Kits: Medium to large metal cups can be used
for coffee, soup or whatever and can be kept warm by placing them on the campfire
rocks or on
the edge of your cook stove. It’s nice to keep your food and drink hot
in cold weather! Some real decent outdoor cookware such as stainless pots and
pans, utensils etc, can be purchased for very little money at a thrift store.
I
once
had to buy some of
these items when I went on an “emergency field trip” and realized
in the rush that I had not gotten any cookware packed. I stopped in a small town
and picked up all I needed for less than $3.00. Most of that stuff is now in
one
of two permanent kits.
Field Food Kit: It is a good thing to always have some fresh camping type foods
ready in a box for a quick field trip. This can be the usual soup, chili, canned
meats, rice, beans, noodles, MREs, and freeze dried food. Add to this power bars,
Gatorade, and whatever else you prefer for quick field meals. (Used since 2003)
Stove and Lantern Kits: I purchased a propane adapter for my Coleman
fuel stove and I keep both the adapter and the fuel tank with the stove
to burn whichever
is available. I can fit at least one propane bottle inside the stove when it
is stored. I also keep spare mantles, and generators inside my Coleman stove
and lantern boxes along with good quality strike any ware matches. And I store
my stove and lanterns with fresh fuel in them so that they are ready to go
right out of the box. That way when I arrive at camp in the dark, I
can produce some
light, or cook some food without having to refill first. I have not had any
leakage problems in the 10+ years I have used this practice. Also,
I never store (put
away after a trip) a lantern with bad mantles, but rather put new replacements
on if they need it before storage, but I don’t burn them in until I get
into the field. (Used since 1995)
Fishing Kit: Mainly for organization – I keep most of
my fishing gear in one large rubberized bag which is camo’d and is designed
for holding duck and geese decoys. It has the usual handles and H.D.
shoulder strap. I keep my
fishing tackle boxes, gill nets, folding fishing rod/reel, and all my spare
fishing gear in the bag except for the full size rods. The fishing rods are
kept in an
overhead rod holder (nice and out of the way). Of course I have some mini fishing
kits/nets in my survival kits. (Used since 2004)
Hunting Kit: My Hunting Kit consists of a camouflage bag which holds hunting
maps, game regulations, game calls, safety equipment like orange vests/hats,
game bags, animal scale, game scents, and other things needed for hunting that
are not included in the other kits. (Used since 1987)
Shelter /Camp Kits: In a GI duffle bag with shoulder straps I keep
a full size camping tent, all of its poles and stakes, and some rope. I have
a dedicated “ground
cloth” tarp, which I keep with this duffle bag. In a second very large
bag I keep most of my folded tarps of various sizes. I also keep most of my remaining
rope in this big bag in two different large zip lock bags. In addition, I have
a camp “outhouse kit” which is a regular home toilet seat mounted
on an aluminum folding camp chair frame, along with a large tarp setup and
more rope. (Used since 1996)
Personal Gear Kit: My Personal Gear Kit is a medium small
bag sized to fit on the front seat of my Chevy Suburban. In it I keep the stuff
that I want handy
there and also things I might put into my pockets when walking into the woods
but stuff I don’t want to carry on my person through the evening once back
in camp. Things like a GPS, FRS radio, Binoculars, Range finder, gloves, sunglasses
and other personal gear that you probably won’t need in camp. This bag
keeps my front seat more organized during road trips too. (Used since 2004)
Packing and Storing Your Kits: Remember to inventory your
kits as you make them. Keep duplicate contents lists on file, and label your
kits well. In addition
to my personal color-coding systems, I attach tags or in many cases I just
make a label from 1-inch masking tape describing the type of kit and attach
it to
the box or to the shoulder strap of the kit. I affix the labels to either the
end or side of the box, and also on the top of the box so that no matter how
it is stored on a shelf – I can see one or both labels and I know what
kit that is. If I am not sure what is in the kit - I just have to check the
inventory sheet to verify the contents.
As JWR and others have mentioned – it is an excellent exercise to try
packing your emergency equipment into your escape vehicle. This will help you
learn two
things, first – how to pack it most efficiently and second to know how
much your vehicle(s), trailer, or whatever you are planning to use will carry.
[JWR Adds: It is crucial that you pre-position the majority
of your gear at your intended retreat, since you may only have one trip
outta Dodge!] For packing your gear into your vehicles, it is good to find
containers (boxes,
bags) that
will
pack
well
together.
For
the
larger
kits,
I usually
use stackable
boxes that together are a little shorter than the height of my SUV.
Then I pack the smaller and softer gear around them.
Conclusion: Once you have made your kits, test them in the field. Make sure they work, and that they have what you need, but not a bunch of stuff you will never use. Having your equipment “kitted up” and ready to go will help you to be ready when the big event hits. Whether it is a tsunami, an earthquake, an economic collapse or a full scale invasion by foreign troops – you’ll be ready, and this preparation will give you some peace of mind knowing that you are much more ready that the average Joe. Once your done, help a neighbor and a friend build a kit. Be Prepared, - Christian Souljer, Pacific Northwest
JWR Adds: I greatly appreciate you sharing your experience and insights. It goes without saying that it is important to rotate the perishable items in your various kits regularly. In particular: food items, batteries, some first aid supplies, and chemical light sticks.
