Dear Jim,
I concur on a gladius (which is the same size as a Celtic leaf blade,
Greek hoplite, Swiss baselard or 18th century artillery short sword)
as a good choice in swords. It's about the length of one joint of
the arm, so it becomes an almost perfect extension and usable fairly
instinctively. It works better with a shield--1/2 to 3/4 plywood.
A basic one can be cut from thin leaf spring stock (1/4" or
3/16") or riding mower blades. It works best in formation, but
that's unlikely to be a scenario in the future.
Swordsmithing more than bladesmithing is a very complex task, not for
the beginner. Heat treatment is critical, and there's a lot of metal
to move. Grinding one takes longer and will waste some metal (more
than half), but shavings can be recycled or melted down. Grinding means
less chance for impurities to seep into the metal, and takes only a
file or a stone (such as the curb).
Smithing of locks for muzzleloaders isn't too complex, though it takes
some skill tempering, but barrels are a task in themselves. What many
re-enactors use for cheap functionality is high-pressure plumbing pipe.
Instructions for building a rifling cutter are available in the out
of print Foxfire books and others. It's time consuming but not too
complex. Be warned that this pipe will handle blackpowder, but will
burst with more modern propellants. With a lathe, transmission shafts
or other chrome-moly steel (4140 or similar material) can be bored
and turned into good barrels for modern cartridges.
The Chinese repeating crossbow, which I have handled and shot, was
intended for use by massed peasants. It suffers from several problems.
First, it cannot be aimed well, as the mechanism is above the stock
and (second) must be worked while shooting. Third, it is not very powerful,
so fourth, it lacks range. Against even thick leather, it is unlikely
to penetrate. Fifth, the mechanism is complex. However, an earlier
Greek mechanism was built as a ballista for rapid firing bolts. This
is a great way to disperse a crowd in a hurry--dropping a dozen spears
into the midst will certainly make any charge scatter. And obviously,
even a hand-held one has psychological effect for the rate of fire,
especially against unarmored people. I would prefer accurate shots
at greater range, however, and when the magazine loading time is taken
into account for the repeating crossbow, a good recurve in practiced
hands is more effective and simpler. (For note, I have recurves, longbows
and crossbows in the house and compete at re-enactments at an adequate
if not impressive level. I am generally biased toward recurves for
rate of fire, but I prefer the crossbow if I have time to make the
shots count.)
I just saw this
video on archery (it's in Korean). The interesting
part for me is the great slow-motion shots of arrows in flight, showing
the oscillations that they must go through in order to fly "Straight." The
arrow is propelled straight by the string, but must bend around the
limb of the bow. This is something that arrows must be designed for
for best accuracy. - Michael
Z. Williamson, (in sword maker rather than sci-fi writer mode)
