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Fishing at the End of the World, by Jason A.
Fishing with a single line is not the most effective or efficient use of one’s
time when the goal is to harvest fish for food. At the best, I have seen fishermen
attend to four or five lines with limited success. Any more than that will
cost the fisherman bait and bites. When TEOTWAWKI arrives
the chances that we find time to enjoy the simpler pleasures—such as
wetting a line in the shade while enjoying a brew—will vanish. The purpose
of this writing is to describe the several methods that will produce large
catches with little
or no attention needed.
The techniques have varied names depending on where you are from and some work
in different ways but the goal is the same: To present lines to the fish with
a means to work against the fish, thus hooking it, fighting it and/or notifying
the fisherman of a bite. Thus, many of the techniques act essentially as water
bound traps.
The primary prey pursued with these techniques is catfish. Catfish are one
few fish with a very wide range. According to author Joseph S. Nelson, different
types of catfish can be found on every continent except Antarctica. (Fishes
of the World, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. ISBN 047125031) However,
they may not all
be
edible (I know
of
several saltwater
species that are not). Catfish are very nutritious as well. According
to one Internet reference, one three-ounce serving of freshwater catfish
contains "about 146 calories, 17
grams
of protein
and 8.7 grams of fat." Not to mention essential vitamins and minerals.
Smaller variants of the methods described and different baits can be used with
other species of fish however. It must be said, also, that when fishing for
catfish, turtles are likely. However turtles are usually not an unwelcome catch
as they are as tasty as catfish (though they are more difficult to pull up).
In my home state of Kentucky most if not all fishing techniques have clear
and strict regulations to ensure fair harvest and safety. For instance, here
in Kentucky sport lines such as are described in this writing must be certain
distances from dams and are restricted in bodies of water of certain sizes.
In Kentucky, Each sport fishing trotline, jug line or set line must be: 1)
permanently labeled with the name and address of the user; 2) baited, checked
and all fish removed at least once every 24 hours; 3) removed from water, bank
or tree when fishing ceases.
Important warning: Check your state and local regulations before embarking
upon any fishing venture.
Jug Lines
I begin this writing with the subject of jug lines because of all of the techniques
in this article, there are none more productive or entertaining.
As with most fishing techniques there are several variations so experimentation
cannot be discounted. Anything that fits the purpose is sufficient. That purpose
is nothing more than to present a baited hook to your prey and attach it to
something (a jug) that pulls back sufficiently to hook the fish and notify
the angler. The jug line advantage is that the line depth can present the bait
at multiple depths if the feeding zone is not known. This allows the angler
to set multiple jugs at varying depths until a successful depth is discovered.
The simplest and most recognizable setup involves nothing more than a jug,
a line, a hook and a sinker. The jug could be almost anything that floats.
Two liter or 16 ounce soda bottles are fine. Empty and cleaned detergent or
bleach bottles are superb as they are thick and float well. As of late, more
and more anglers are determined to refine the technique by “building” jugs.
The most effective ones are nothing more than a length of PVC pipe threaded
through a “pool noodle”. The pipe should be longer than the noodle
and the noodle should be pushed on and secured to one end. The line and accompaniments
are tied to the pipe at the exposed end. Thus, when the fish pulls down, the
noodle stands up as notification of a “fish on”. The jug can float
on the current or it can be anchored by tying on another line or by placing
the hook line off the main line by using a swivel.
Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of jug lines to no more than 50 per boat.
Jug lines may contain only one hook per jug. Check your state and local regulations.
Limb Lines (Set Lines)
Limb lines are simply lengths of line with the end opposite the hook secured
to an overhanging limb. This technique is probably better suited for rivers
because limbs overhanging lakes will more than likely be located in shallow
water.
One variation of limb lines is cane poling, where the limb is provided by the
angler. Basically the longest and most sturdy (while flexible) length of cane
is equipped with a hook, line, sinker (optional) and bait. The opposite end
of the cane is driven deep into the ground of the nearby bank. The arc of the
cane is the indication of the bite.
Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of limb lines to no more than 25 per person.
Set lines may contain only one hook per line.
Trotlines
Trotlines are simply limb lines with more than one hook. The additional hooks
are attached to shorter lengths of line which are attached to the main line
via swivels. Knots keep the swivels from moving the shorter lines where they
are unwanted. One end of the line is attached to a stationary object on shore
such as a tree (limb or trunk) or a fence post. The other end should be anchored
in some way. A coffee can filled with dry cement and an eye bolt is fine or
a brick works equally as well. Do not do as most old timers do and bait up
your hooks from shore and toss the brick. It is a good way to get an arm (or
head) full of hooks.
There are variations to the standard trotline. Both ends can be tied to stationary
shore objects and the line can be strung across the water with a weight in
the center. As with the other techniques improvisation is an art and can yield
better results.
Kentucky laws restrict the quantity of trot lines to no more than 2 per person.
There are also strict regulations on the quantity of hooks per line as well
as the spacing of said hooks. The line must also be set three feet or more
below the water’s surface.
Hooks
Hooks must be chosen based on the application. As a general rule, for these
techniques, the stronger the hook the better the performance. Stronger is relative
not only to the material of the hook (which should be steel) or the thickness
(thicker the better) but also the coating. The hooks should be zinc-coated
at the very least. Stainless steel is best. Remember that these hooks are going
to spend a great deal of time submerged. In fact, the best trotline hooks are
probably saltwater hooks.
The style of hook to be used is mostly personal preference. Some will argue
that certain styles work better. Choose the appropriate hook for the prey and
bait. I personally prefer a circle hook as I think it does a better job of
hooking the fish and keeping it hooked. I don’t have any data to back
up this claim. The engineer in me tells me this is correct and that also the
deep circular bend would also prove stronger. Maybe one day I’ll test
that theory.
The size of the hook, again, must be chosen to fit the application. Most sizes
from size 3/0 to 6/0 are used commonly. The middle ground is the most common.
Line
The line used should be strong and most synthetic materials can be used. Cotton
should not be used, however. Surveyors twine is strong when dry but is absolutely
the worst line to use. The line must be like the hook, impervious to the effects
of being submerged for extended amounts of time. Some suppliers in New England
offer a line that is tarred for water resistance. Heavy braided fishing lines
can also be used. The diameter is not very important. The fish will not see
the lines or hooks; they will come to the lines by smelling and feeling the
bait. Bait
The bait placed on the line will, in most cases, determine the catch.
Flathead catfish are notoriously picky and most times will only take live bait
such as shiners, chubs or bluegill. Most times, these baits can be lip-hooked.
I feel, however, that hooking them through the eye or toward the tail improves
the bite. It may seem cruel but the more injured the bait appears, the more
likely the predator will strike.
Blue catfish and channel catfish will bite live bait and almost anything else
including but not limited to: shrimp, leeches, worms, chicken liver or gizzards,
catalpa worms, doughbait, stinkbait, and cutbait.
It is important not to overlook anything as bait. It should also be noted that
certain baits work better on certain days or seasons. The good news is that
you can set enough lines to experiment and see what works.
Location
The best places to set jug lines are along large, long flats where large catfish
roam, hunting their prey. On lakes, creek arms or shallow bays are prime locations.
Timing
Most fishermen prefer to try their luck during the hours just before and after
dusk and well into the night. Full moon nights seem to produce the best. Catfish
are great hunters in any light due to their amazing senses however. Catfish
can taste with many different parts of their body. They are sometimes called “swimming
tongues”. Combine that with the electro receptors in its head and it
becomes the perfect killing machine—a virtual freshwater shark—in
low light conditions.
While Blues and Channels will eat anything, including junk, the Flathead prefers
live bait and thus is more vulnerable at night when hunting is easy.
After the Catch
Despite what many people say, a catfish can be filleted as any normal fish
might. Skinning is not necessary but can decrease the amount of meat that is
wasted. The knife used for filleting must be very sharp. Use caution.
Start with a cut that runs parallel the fish’s gills but is rear of the
pectoral fin. Make that cut, also parallel to the cutting surface or ground,
until the knife hits bone. Remove the knife. Reinsert the knife, with the flat
of the blade parallel to the bone you just hit, starting with the tip at the
fish’s back. While slicing, insert the tip further and work the cuts
toward the rear of the fish. If you are contacting the rib bones you are making
the cuts deep enough. Once you move the knife rear of the ribs you can insert
it straight down and out the other side at the bottom of the fish. Continue
rearward, keeping the knife as close to bone as possible. When you have reached
the tail, flip the meat over and severe any additional attachment points. After
the fillet and skin combination has been removed from the fish lay it on a
flat surface with the skin down. Lay the knife blade parallel to the cutting
surface and remove the meat from the skin. Place the first fillet in cool clean
water with a dash of salt added. The salt will prevent bacteria growth and
will season the meat a bit. Repeat for the opposite side.
Once your fish have been filleted, wash your hands and proceed with steps to
cook your catch.
Pat the fish dry and dredge in cornmeal, fry in a cast iron skillet full of
cooking oil. Enjoy!
Conclusion
When securing food is of a higher priority than having a good time, the techniques
described in this article are far superior to rod and reel. That being said,
the entertainment value of simply providing food for the table by hunting a
prey and succeeding make the reward just that much tastier.
