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Six Letters Re: Some Thoughts on the Survival Vehicle
Jim –
Read the article [by OddShot] about the BOV and
wanted to add a ranching note. Some of us ranchers have pickups with a trailer
hitch mounted in the front
as
well
as
the back. This makes pulling trailers out of awkward situations easier without
having to turn the truck around. Added to a substantial front bumper, it makes
front
ramming an interesting proposition, as that hitch – with a draw-bar but
no ball – would do some serious damage. Kind of like the bronze prow
on a Greek warship. Just an idea. - Geoff in ND
JWR Replies: While I'm not an advocate of playing
"Road Warrior"--(I'm more of a "hunker down" in place kinda
guy)--in my dealings with consulting clients I've witnessed quite a few "specialized" custom-fabricated
bumper accessories. Most of these were variations of crash bars. (My old friend
"Jeff
Trasel",
for example, many
years ago owned
a camouflage-painted Volkswagen festooned with various Marine Corps bumper
stickers and equipped with a very stout crash bar.) I've also seen
all manner of nefarious
devices designed to fit into standard 2-inch square receiver hitch
channels.
The biggest advantage of these is that they can be quick-detachable, allowing
them to be kept out of sight in normal (pre-Schumeresque)
times. One of these was a clever pair of "radiator killer" spikes.
The 1-1/2" diameter spikes on this were both nearly three feet long.
and tapered for just their last eight inches. The bottom one projected directly
out from
the receiver,
at just below
"trailer
ball"
height.
The other half of the forked pair was parallel to the first, but about 15
inches higher. If
ramming another vehicle, at least one of these two spikes would likely
puncture the radiators of 90% of the cars and trucks that anyone might encounter
on the
highways
and byways. When installed in a rear hitch mount, the barbs are a primarily
defensive weapon. But when
installed in a pickup's front receiver, they can act as
a fearsome offensive anti-radiator weapon.
Hello Jim,
I would like to add one thing to the article by Oddshot. Fix-A-Flat
type [aerosol tire sealant] products can freeze and not flow in cold weather,
rendering it useless. I learned this the hard way during a recent cold snap
here in
Ohio.
Although
I disagree with his comments on diesels it was an informative article. Thanks,
- Jeff in Ohio.
Mr. Rawles,
I rarely contribute an opinion here because my expertise pales in comparison
to many who are listed in here. The gentleman who recommended the Ford F150
as a base unit for a survival vehicle is spot on. I would go one stop further
and recommend a early to mid eighties F150 or F250 with a 300 straight six
engine coupled with Fords famous "three speed with granny low" standard
transmission. Used to sell trucks to horse and other farmers in the early nineties
at a very large new Ford lot. The young guys (me included) bought the big diesels
for their stock trailers and the old guys would buy the straight six. Guess
who never needed to come into the shop. You got it, the old guys. That straight
six will pull almost as good as the diesel including up and down hills with
the only sacrifice being a little lower top speed. It is a very simple engine
to work on (if you ever have to-very reliable). I still own and use my 1991
Ford diesel but in retrospect would have spent much less and gotten the 300
straight six if I had it to do over again.
From a construction stand point the Fords of that era were built and designed
much better than it's competition. The beds were bolted on instead of welded
etc. Their only weakness is a tendency to rust out over the wheel wells.
I am a MOPAR guy who comes from a MOPAR family. But when you take emotion,
and prejudice out of the equation, the light Ford pickup of the eighties was
indeed the best of its contemporaries for durability and simplicity
for your dollar. - GSJ
Sir James,
Tires rot. There is a five year expected useful safe design
life. The valving on shock absorbers wear, and their chrome shafts also
rust. Replace tires when truck
is purchased
and once every five
years even if tread depth measures (US penny Lincoln's head = 1/16" tread
depth remains).
I have been driving 1 ton pickups ever since I was 16 years old (in 1964).
Over the [intervening 45] years, I have used bias tube type, tubeless,
with and without tubes, and radials. While aluminum lug holes can wear and
rims can break, their beads don't rust air leaks as steel rims eventually do
[in
regions where road salt is used].
My '72 3/4 ton , owned since new, "3 door" Suburban project now has
17"x7" as backspacing on more common 16"s mismatched with OEM 16.5" steel
rims. They rusted leaks after 25+ years. The 17" wheels
allow for larger front disk brake upgrades. I use 265-70Rx17" LR E =
235-85Rx16" LR
E tire diameter nominal 32" tall,
the latter being the most common skinny tire on 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks.
I advise replacing all moving/flexing rubber, such as belts, every three years
and rubber hoses every five years. Yes, I have had family members get 20 plus
years, but that
takes pure Grace to miss anything in between inconvenient to catastrophic
failure.
Replace the mindsets of "can you get by until the lease has run out" or "trade
as soon as you're no longer upside down". These paid-for bug-out buggies are
your
best means of not carrying your kit on your back for a decade or more, if you
can keep it fed.
My plan is to have a 110 mph-capable, 400 horsepower and 400 pound ft. +
5 speed with overdrive and a gear splitting overdrive (unit gearing) truck
capable
of towing
and stopping
five ton trailer loads, firewood, and the like
This truck shall never again be a painted lady or look as fast as it truly is.
-
Tom K.
Mr. Editor;
See the Expeditions
West web site and the vehicles they are
testing and past vehicles they recommend for the purpose of traversing cross
country in all terrain. These folks could be consider 'experts' on the subject.
Choosing a vehicle should be like choosing a firearm, where personal experience
with the equipment and the users physical attributes can be major considerations
in the choice. As apart of an intended hobby, I had hoped to build a vehicle
for the purpose and get involved with the sport. As an example I'll discuss
my primary vehicle for the purpose. Because of my extensive experience and
knowledge of the vehicle, not so much cost considerations, I chose a 1985 Toyota
4WD fuel injected pickup and spent a fair amount to thoroughly restore it.
It is #4 on Expedition West's most recommended list along with more modern
vehicles. They state the major reasons for the choice. Fortunately there are
other and more modern vehicles on their list, so there's something there for
everyone.
A quick and incomplete mention of the Pro's and Con's of some my vehicle's attributes.
The drive train is essentially a scaled down and lighter version of the Toyota
FJ40, and like the FJ40, exceptionally tough. Chevy trucks have been known to
bend frames on trails these Toyota's climb like goats. Albeit a light truck,
it can can handle a useful and relatively heavy payload for it's size, passenger
capacity and fuel economy. It offers one of the highest payload to fuel economy
ratio found in any gasoline powered 4WD truck.
The 1985 [model year] is the only Toyota pickup with the durable straight front
axle
and
more powerful and modern, yet simple fuel injected motor. A separate computer
is not
needed to help with diagnostics. Any reasonable mechanic or intelligent young
person can handle the job. A small trailer can be towed and navigate tight Forest
Service roads, and a larger trailer with electric brakes can safely handle fair
amount weight. The truck's towing capacity is a reasonable 3,500 pounds, exceptionally
high for it's class. In light of a possible EMP attack,
it's major weakness is the computer controlled fuel injection and ignition. The
upside to a modern EFI
motor is the availability of emission control devices which may need replacement
and these parts can be had at lower cost than the latest models. Out here in
boonies, we're lucky that Emission Certification is not required. With some modification,
this 1985 model can use the injection system from a 1995 models. Fortunately
I happen to have several spare and complete sets of replacement parts for the
fuel and secondary ignition systems for 1985 to 1990 models. I also have plenty
of spare parts for the rest of vehicle stored in boxes and extra and operational
vehicles that can be used as parts cars. The vehicle is common in this sparsely
populated neck of the woods and spare parts are plentiful, but not as plentiful
as the old Chevys. The key to utilizing the parts of different years and related
models vehicles is to have intimate knowledge of the subtle changes made from
year to year. A mechanic with such knowledge could be invaluable. I'm not a mechanic
by trade, but a passion for these trucks during my youth led me to research and
discover the vast technical support and knowledge available on the internet from
other enthusiasts of this once very popular truck. To be sure, my parts pile
is considerable and includes spare gear sets, transmissions, suspension, and
axles, to the now difficult to obtain distributors, cylinder heads and exhaust
manifolds and so forth. A complete and spare, yet still running 4WD Toyota truck
can be stripped of it's carburetor and accessories if needed or simply driven
as is. This un-restored "spare" 4WD truck is still serviceable and equipped with
a flat bed, a good wood getter that can squeeze and navigate though narrow openings
and roads. Because of it's high mileage and other attributes, I do not consider
it a primary vehicle. Another complete low mileage and running 2wd of the same
year could donate it it's EFI. It is essentially a copy of my primary vehicle
without the 4WD.
Spare and complete sets of stock and oversized tires on rims allow these vehicles
to operate on any terrain or road conditions from sand dunes to deeper mud and
snow. With only stock sized tires, which are adequate for most trails and roads,
these trucks do surprisingly well. Letting the air out of the tires to no less
than 15 psi greatly improves there performance in sand. Tall and narrow tires
are recommended over tall and wide usually seen as the foot print is actually
greater 'aired down'. The rolling resistance is less on the highway and it 'bites'
into dirt and snow far better. It is a well balanced choice in off road tires.
This is a topic of it's own and I'll leave it with a recommendation that 23575R16
tires are the best all around for many 4WD vehicles, including Toyota trucks.
No suspension modification is required for most.
Regardless of your choice, a good 'yard car' or well used and still running spare
vehicle, is wonderful source of parts. Rust buckets are cheap.
New and used carburetors for many full sized and light foreign and domestic trucks
are becoming difficult to find.
Rebuild kits for carburetors are a good idea. Although the older Toyota's are
my personal favorite, we also have fleet of Chevy's, model years from 1964 into
the 1980s: a 1 ton, flatbed, dump bed, standard and 4WD Suburbans. Not only
do these all run, but: "Hey, parts is parts!" We also have a "Toyolet",
a Toyota
FJ40
[that has been retrofitted] with a powerful V8 Chevy motor and heavy duty
Turbo 400 transmission, with air lockers and other serious off road features.
Even with all it's fancy stuff,
my 1985 Toyota does well off road in comparison while getting 24 mpg on
the highway. Although not a practical daily driver, it would fun in the sun and
useful
in a high speed Mad Max world, yet one would need plenty of stored fuel.
Well, it looks like I've ramble on anyway, so it time to quit. Hopefully some
of areas covered provide helpful tips and considerations. With all the factors
one may consider, a big clue on what to buy could found while driving around
the neighborhood. Consider using the tool the natives have found to be the most
useful. If old Chevy's are plentiful, get a Chevy. Then again perhaps it is Ford
or Toyota as the popular choice. The local junkyard is likely loaded with parts.
Even if an older Toyota is your 'thing', be sure to have a full sized carbureted
Pickup on hand, preferable a 3/4 ton, and make sure one of those truck is 4WD,
preferably the Toyota, especially if you intend to live in a heavily forested
area. It may mean taking two trips to get the wood, yet it can go where the wood
is and usually a pickup is driven mostly empty. As bug out vehicle or wood getter,
no full sized can follow it down those very narrow jeep trails or traverse soft
deep sand. A Toyota could get between 19 and 24 mpg loaded/unloaded, and a full-sized
would get between 8 and 12 mpg whether or not, it is loaded. A full size 3/4
ton should be used and is needed to handle the very heavy work. As always, use
the right tool for the job. A 2WD full sized pickup can often be found in better
condition and at a cheaper price. A 3/4 ton 4WD Chevy Suburban can be a very
inexpensive all around family and farm rig. A late model and nearly new high
tech Chevy or Ford might be the worst choice, but always have a low tech truck
on hand if one needs or already has such a vehicle. As a retired fleet manager,
I suggest keeping it simple. - E.L
James,
Upon reading the recommendations about a "survival vehicle" by OddShot,
I see you posted about turning off airbags. I believe that the author was
speaking about supplemental airbags for the rear suspension in pickup trucks,
not the
vehicle
passenger
protection-type airbags.
He had mostly sound advice, but I'm not sure an automatic
is really a liability, a properly maintained automatic is trouble free and
will last a long, long time. With an automatic you're pretty much
guaranteed that someone can hop in your rig and drive it effectively. In
contrast, with
a manual transmission (especially truck transmissions), a person has
to have manual transmission experience in order to
use it. Things
like this most likely would never come into play, but an automatic is a lot
easier for an injured or inexperienced person to use. - A. Friendly
