August 2009 Archives


Monday, August 31, 2009


Sir,
For those who don't have an "old" copy of the Boy Scout Handbook, the 1911 edition is available from Project Gutenberg in a variety of electronic formats.

Also, they have the Girl Scout Handbook, 1920 edition.

There is some overlap with the Boy Scouts handbook, but also much that is unique, especially in regard to care of the home, growing a garden, storing food, outdoor and indoor cooking, and a good section on first aid and home health care. Regards, - Andrew H.

JWR Replies: For any families with teenagers, or pre-teens, I recommend getting hard copies of these books:

(BTW, most adults also find these books fascinating reading, and useful references.)



Sir,
I have a question what is the metal makeup of dimes [US 10-cent coins]. I am saving the nickels [US 5-cent coins, as suggested in SurvivalBlog, since 2007]. I have a small amount of dimes and was wondering if they are worth saving? - Curtis M.

JWR Replies: Stockpiling dimes would not be wise. See the base metal value data at Coinflation,com. As of Saturday, August 29th, the base metal value of a post-1964 dime is $0.01704, (less than 2 cents) but the acquisition cost fro each coin is the face value of ten cents.

Meanwhile, the base metal value of a post-1945 nickel, is 0.04811, but the acquisition cost is just five cents--nearly its actual base metal worth. So it is quite realistic to stockpile these as an inflation hedge. Unlike pennies, (which require sorting, and it requires a substantial investment to recoup the cost of buying a sorting machine), the nickel is the only other commonly-circulating coin that has a metallic value near its face value, so I'm steadfast in my advice on saving them. That is, at least until the inevitable new debased issue is released, whereupon it would become difficult to sort the wheat from the chaff.

For someone with time on their hands--such as a retiree--I recommend searching through rolls of half-dollars, from your local bank. The US 50 cent pieces made in and before 1964 are 90% silver (now worth about 12x face value), and those made from 1965 to 1970 are 40% silver (now worth about 5x face value.) Also, those that are dated 1970 have an even greater numismatic value, since it is a "rare date", as they were only issued in mint sets and proof sets. Although it is not very common, once in a while later-date rare proof coins, which are also 90% silver will slip into circulation. These are easy to spot, because of their distinctive high contrast appearance. By the way, after you have done your "date picking", when you re-roll the coins to return to the bank, make sure that you mark the rolls in a distinctive way (such as applying a ring of black magic marker), so you can avoid searching through the same roll twice.



Mr Rawles,s
My family really enjoys and has benefited from reading your blog. Thank you for putting together such a quality reference site. One topic I have not seen discussed (even after a search of the archives) is whether or not pre-1960s foreign silver coins have any value. As a child, I received a large number of European coins from my grandfather (circa 1920s to 1930s), many of which are silver and a few appear to be bronze. While they have little value to collectors based on condition (I have kept them for sentimental reasons), I would assume that silver is silver and they have some base value. Do you have any opinions or advice regarding using these in a SHTF situation or a suggestion for a reference I could use for more information regarding their silver content? Thank you, - J.S.

J.W.R.;
I was wondering if you could point me to a source for determining the silver content by year of Canadian coins and if any of them would be worth hanging on to. Thanks in advance! - Montana Marty

JWR Replies: I recommend getting copies of both the 2009 Standard Catalog of World Coins 1901-2000 and the 2010 Standard Catalog of World Coins 2001-Date reference books. Composition data on Canadian coins is also available at these web pages:

Ken Polsson's Page

Canadian Nickels - Composition

CoinMine.com

Another good reference for US coins is The Official Red Book: A Guide Book of United States Coins 2009, but coin composition data is also available online at www.Coinflation.com. and BestCoin.com. Needless to say, when preparing for a grid-down collapse, it is crucial to have hard copies of key references that you'll need for barter.



[Introductory note from JWR: I normally send detailed letter replies only to their intended recipients, but in this case, I thought that this letter was a great example of terrain and obstacle analysis,a s well as "outside the box" planning, so I'm positing it for the entire SurvivalBlog readership to ponder. Do you have similar plans for off-road mobility, and contingency plans, folks?]

Mr. Rawles,
A note for Diane about her relative living on-post at Fort Riley, Kansas: First thing to obtain if you want to bug out of Ft. Riley is to get a Kansas Atlas & Gazetteer map book from DeLorme. [JWR Adds: These books are a key tool for "Get Out of Dodge" (G.O.O.D.) planning. Get one of these for your state, and if your intended retreat is in another state, for any states in-between!]

I trained for some years on the Ft. Riley reservation, lived in Kansas and have canoed many streams in the area. I have these comments on how to get out of that location.

The Ft. Riley Military Reservation is bounded on it western side by the very large Milford Lake. The water body of this lake is 14+ miles long and has a wildlife area upstream that extends some 5 to 6 miles north to Boughton, Kansas. At Boughton you can access a good Highway that will take you to Clay Center then west on Highway 24 to get across the Republican river.
Only one road crosses the lake body proper at Wakefield [Highway 82]. The river running into the lake is the Republican River. It is runs through an area of heavy soils making the banks steep, the bottom of the river soft and the stream depth non-fordable. To ford this river channel without a bridge you would have to travel many miles upstream approaching Cloud County Kansas [county seat Concordia] where the river changes from a deep soil bed to a sandy bed. Even in this area no one crosses the river in a four wheeled vehicle. ATVs do, but it is just too soft and sandy. I worked for the Department of Agriculture in this area and am very familiar with the farm community and the river channel areas, as a hunter. The transition zone from solid soils to sand is rather mucky.
I have canoed much of the river from well above Concordia to near the lake. Other than the road crossing at Wakefield and the southern end of the dam where Highway 244 skirts below the dam the west side of Ft. Riley is only a restricted bug out route because of the few escape routes. Near Salina Kansas the is the junction of the Solomon River [consisting upriver of two large streams, the north fork and the south fork]; the Saline River and the Smoky Hill River. Saline is west of Ft. Riley. At Ft. Riley the Republican River joins this conglomeration of rivers that come together at Saline to form the Kansas, River. This river is big. You will not cross unless you can find a bridge. This river runs west to east for many miles and gets much bigger the further east you go. Bugging out south of Ft. Riley is possible only if the Highways are clear to get across this river system.
Consult your maps for details.

There are large tracts of land south and southeast of Junction City, the southern portal to Ft. Riley that do not have a fully-developed [typical Plains state township] mile on mile road grid system.
Why? It is range land supporting large ranches. The roads were never built on a grid in this area. It has restricted assess to state Highways and county farm to market roads only. Consult your maps.
Unless the major Highways are open to the south it is a restricted zone for escape some 15 miles south and 20 miles east due to the lack of a road grid system.

Yes, I-70 does run by the south. A good exit if it is open. To the east is the large metropolitan city of Manhattan. It is a block if you want to bug out to the east. North and further NE of Ft. Riley is the huge Tuttle Creek lake some 16 miles long with its accompanying wildlife land area extending another five miles or so upriver. It is a huge block to getting out east or NE. Only one road crosses the lake on the dam [Highway 13].

The only well developed open grid section of mile on mile of county roads and state Highways is north. The Ft. Riley Military Reservation is some 14 mile long to the north. There is a military road system through this area. This road system is accessible from the bedding area for troops on Custer Hill--or it was some years ago. Check this out.

The huge training area north of Ft. Riley is, or was controlled from a single building called "Range Control". The assignment and use of the training areas was scheduled from this area. They monitor the areas mostly by radio. My suggestion is to get a military map of Ft. Riley with the range control markings showing the designations of each of the training areas. They all have numbers.
Now, since I was there a large construction and upgrading has proceeded at the tank gunnery range. But in an emergency I would think military families wanting to exit through the training areas to Bala Kansas and Riley Kansas or to get to the Highway to Milford would be possible. [JWR Adds: It also bears mentioning that artillery range impact areas are to be avoided at all times, since they are often littered with unexploded ordnance (UXO). Most of the "back gates" of large military reservations are kept locked and often unmanned except during major field training exercises (FTXes). In genuine "worst case" times of Deep Drama, a large pair of bolt cutters may be an indispensable friend of last resort. Before taking such extreme measures, however, consider that cutting the last link on a chain on such a gate is a Federal crime! Bolt cutters are a crucial tool that every well-prepared family should own, for many purposes.]

Note: large areas of the north are tank training areas. There are trails there marked tank trail. Under no circumstances try to negotiate a tank trail in a civilian vehicle. You will become mired down in no time. I have driven M60 tanks and tracked bridge units all the way from the bird bath to tank training headquarters. Trust me on this. I have seen tanks mired down on those trails that looked like it was going to take an act of God to get them out.

Ft. Riley present a core of access problems anyone wanting to bug out from there. It is possible if you make a good plan. Have the maps. And please, in advance drive all the routes to familiarize yourself with them. Most of all explore the roads through the training areas. Visit Range Control and talk to the people there and get a map of the military reservation area. [JWR Adds: This can often be done on the pretense of scouting a hunt, since some military training areas are open for specific hunting seasons.] Make a plan! Cordially, - JWC in Oklahoma



WHO warns of severe form of swine flu. The article begins: "Doctors are reporting a severe form of swine flu that goes straight to the lungs, causing severe illness in otherwise healthy young people and requiring expensive hospital treatment, the World Health Organization said on Friday. Some countries are reporting that as many as 15 percent of patients infected with the new H1N1 pandemic virus need hospital care, further straining already overburdened healthcare systems, WHO said in an update on the pandemic."

Gregor spotted this in an Australian newspaper: “Swine Flu Spreading at ‘unbelievable’ rate: WHO Chief”

Swine Flu's Worst Case Scenario: Paranoia or Preparedness?

One company is diligently preparing for the worst case H1N1 Flu scenario with promising results

Fearing flu, Vermont fair cancels all swine events





Our friend Tamara posted a link to an article that illustrates that a very large quantity of ammunition can be stored in a relatively small, waterproof space.

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Failing Camouflage 101: Robbery suspect spray-paints face for disguise, dies. He should have listened to the warnings of his Greek girlfriend, Anna Phalaxis. :-)

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Readers that enjoy finding coupon bargains might find the Coupon Chief web site worth bookmarking. This site is one of the better ones. (There are several others that you can quickly find with a web search,and the links at this SurvivalBlog article.) BTW, I predict that this decade will go down in history as a "penny pinching" one, that will rival the 1930s. Coupon clipping (or should I say more accurately, "coupon printing" or "coupon code copying", these days), is a great way to reduce costs when stocking up.



"You gonna pull those pistols or whistle Dixie?" - Clint Eastwood in the title role of The Outlaw Josey Wales, (1976). Screenplay by Phillip Kaufman and Sonia Chernus, based on the novel Gone to Texas by Asa Earl Carter, under the pen name Forrest Carter. (He also authored The Education of Little Tree.)


Sunday, August 30, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Often in reading survivalist material, one comes across instructions on how to use fire in a camping or retreat setting for cooking, cleaning, sterilizing, and the like.  There is also quite a bit of information on how to protect ones self and belongings from the threat of fire, particularly wildfires.  Much of the information I have found is good information, and will be useful in a The End of the World as We Know It (TEOTWAWKI) scenario.  The purpose of this writing is not to further expound on those things most of us already know, but rather to use us to think about the other ways fire will impact our lives during TEOTWAWKI and look at some possibilities for actions that we should take now.

Without question, fire has played a vital role in shaping every ecosystem in existence on every land today.  That being said, it has to be true that fire, or the lack of fire, will continue to change and/or maintain the lands and ecosystems available into, and beyond TEOTWAWKI.

For centuries fires that started naturally, usually by lightning, and even fires started by native populations, burned unchecked across the landscape.  These fires were generally of low intensity because fire and the fuels they consumed were in harmony due to their long and virtually unhindered relationship.  Nature was in sync.  Around the turn of the 20th century, people began to see fire as a bad thing that was destroying timber, crops, and occasionally buildings.  With that mindset, and with the rapid advancement of technology, man’s capability to contain and control wildfire improved greatly, and we began to save the precious resources once doomed to destruction.  Unfortunately, it was a long time before it occurred to many people that fire is as necessary to the health and vitality of these areas as rain and sunlight.

Fast-forward a hundred years and the results of our extinguishment efforts are clear.  Many forests and wild lands have gone without God’s built-in cleaning for far too long, and now the fuels available to burn generate high-intensity, fast-burning fires that human ingenuity cannot seem to compete with.  I have managed wildfire on both coasts, and numerous places in between, and I want to assure you that this situation exists in many, if not most, of the wild lands, in every state in our Country today, and therefore, should be a consideration in locating and maintaining a retreat or GOOD location.
All wild lands are going to burn one way or another.  We can allow (or mimic, through the use of prescribed fire) naturally occurring fires to burn, or we can exclude fire from an area until the conditions finally come together to generate a conflagration that humans cannot control.  Choosing the former will go a long way toward maintaining these areas in a state where life will flourish.  These fires consume dead fallen debris which provides much needed nutrients back to the soil.  This in turn, encourages the growth of supple young plant life which provide browse and forage for different wildlife species, and opens up areas close to the ground for new growth of overstory species (of trees) to start over.

The exclusion of naturally occurring fire usually has adverse and devastating effects, which interrupt the “circle of life” for years, and sometimes changes the ecosystem forever.  Older, less healthy trees and shrubs are not “thinned out”, allowing the canopy to grow together and shade out nutritious young plant life.  This discourages wildlife browse, which allows the shrub layer and the fallen debris layer to become thicker and heavier.  Once fire does return, it burns with greater intensity and longer flame length, causing the entire tree canopy to be consumed, and large areas of soil to be sterilized, thereby inhibiting regeneration.

Certainly these illustrations are an oversimplification, but nonetheless they do provide an accurate representation of how these forested ecosystems can work.  And while the fire regime is not the only thing that affects forest health, I believe it is the most prominent aspect of these ecosystems which are affecting forest health in our country today.
So, what should you do when considering, building, or maintaining a retreat locale?  First of all, it is important to note that forests vary greatly from one area to the next.  Being a native of the southeast, my intuition and understanding of what a healthy forest looks like does not always apply in say, the northern Rockies.  I think you should choose a location based upon other factors that you have learned, and then begin to study and learn the fire regime for the ecosystem that you have chosen.  To do that, talk to the locals, the scientists or forestry personnel who work in the area, as well as the firefighters.  Farmers also have a good handle on the land and what is happening.  Pay particularly close attention to the old-timers who “grew up around here”.  Ask them these questions:

  • Have the forests changed in their lifetime?  Are they thick and overgrown?
  • Have the fires really gotten worse over the years, or is it just more “hyped” due to the increased population and the sensational media?
  • Is there more or less wildlife than years past?  (Again, this can be hyped by the media, but the local old-timers will have a good feel for the “truth”.)
  • Who owns most of the large tracts of land?  Do they ever log it?  Do they conduct prescribed burns or “controlled burns”?

Other sources of such information include libraries, museums, and town halls or community centers.  Often they will have old pictures.  Look at the background of those photos.  Do the natural areas look significantly different than they do now?
Once you have begun work on your locale, I believe as good stewards we are responsible to at least learn about the basic fire history and behavior in our area.  Those with tracts of land large enough should also learn how to use fire (prescribed fire) for the benefit of the land we use for our survival.  You may also need to get involved in the political process (as long as there is one to be involved in).  Currently, there are laws in many areas that prevent landowners from using fire in a useful and productive way.  While these laws are probably intended to provide for public safety, many of them are old and work against the public good in the long run by adversely affecting forest health.

Work to protect your property against loss due to wildfire.  You can have the best intentions in the world, but if you loose your home because you chose the wrong landscaping or building material, you will become a statistic that many will use to prevent responsible fire management.  http://www.firewise.org/ is a great resource to start looking for information on how to do this

Let me state now, unequivocally and for the record, fire in the wrong hands is extremely hazardous to life and property, and must be treated with the same respect one would give a loaded bazooka in a crowded church.  I am in no way advocating that everyone who owns or manages a rural piece of property go out and set it on fire.  Doing so, without the proper knowledge and safety measures, can cause loss of life and property in a disaster, for which you may be held wholly and personally liable in a court of law.  By the same token, allowing a natural fire to “burn unchecked across the landscape” without the proper knowledge and available resources can also have the same disastrous affects, and is illegal in some areas.

For those of you who believe, as I do, that the stuff will most certainly one day hit the fan, and are planning to make it “out here”, I assure you that these are important issues.  It cannot be overstated that if you intend to live off of the land, then the health and productivity of that land is vital.  Although done with the best of intentions, we have gone a long way to making our forests unhealthy through fire exclusion.  Continue to do so after the SHTF, and your once safe and beautiful homestead, could quite easily become a burned-out, barren wasteland that can no longer sustain you and yours.

JWR Adds: The sound practice of tree clearing to establish "defensible space" has been previously discussed in SurvivalBlog. See, for example, this 2007 article: From the Memsahib: Developing Wildfire Defensive Space at Your Home or Retreat. Don't just think about it, get out you chainsaw and accomplish it!





A reminder that the new Surviving Disaster series premieres on Spike TV on Tuesday, Sept. 1st. Meanwhile, I've been enjoying The Colony, on The Discovery Channel (via online streaming--I don't own a television.) Four full episodes of the latter are still available online.

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Eric S. sent us this every useful link: How to Move Heavy Objects with Simple Tools

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Bill would give president emergency control of Internet. (Thanks to H. for the link.)

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Ben M. flagged this: Fresnel Lens Solar Distiller. JWR Adds this Proviso: Keep in mind that distilled water should be used for no more than a few days, only for emergency drinking water, since it lack crucial minerals for human health!



"It is written, 'As surely as I live,' says the Lord,
Every knee will bow before me;
every tongue will confess to God." - Romans 14:11


Saturday, August 29, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Background Information:

My interest in preparedness started in earnest really just a few months ago.  Before that, I had been an avid backpacker, rock climber, and other sports which require self-sufficiency and forethought.  I am also a Red Cross volunteer.  I was at hurricane Wilma, and I have done local search and rescue, amongst other things.  This February I was dispatched to the south-western region of Kentucky for the Ice Storms.  What I learned there changed me in a lot of ways.

I was aware of the pending economic collapse, but hadn't really thought of practical things to do until then.  As a pre-1840s Re-enactor, I was pretty sure I could comfortably live in a pre-industrial setting.  A little hubris, maybe, but at 23 sometimes that goes with the territory.

While we drove into Kentucky, parts of it looked like a war-zone.  Downed trees and power lines, roofs collapsed, the whole deal.  It was a long drive, and it really set in for us how serious this was.  People's lives were on the line. 

There were three FEMA gas depots throughout the State, but FEMA did next to nothing to help here.  Without electricity, the pumps at the gas station will not work.  Some place had hooked up diesel generators to power the pumps if they could, and very few business that were still open would accept anything but cash. 

When we arrived in the small town to which we had been dispatched, we found that the Red Cross volunteers at the shelter had not slept for any normal amount of time in close to 8 days.  At the height of the storms our shelter slept 150 people.

We gave the local volunteers a needed break, and worked 20-hour days.  It was rough; but anyone who has been in that situation knows it can very rewarding as well.  We served 800 hot meals a day, gave out pallets upon pallets of MREs and uncounted bottles of water.

The grid-water had been contaminated, so bottled water was really all the people could drink or wash with if they didn't have a very, very deep well, even then they were on a boil-alert.  If your house did not have a wood burning stove, then you were sleeping with us.  All together the power and gas were out, in some places, for more than 20 days.

That's the background and the quick version of events which eventually led to my interest in this area.

On to the practical details that I learned.  First and most important was this:  when the trucking lines break down, within two or perhaps three days, every store will be sold out of all dry food.  That means, that if you don't have at least two weeks worth of food stored up, you'll be visiting me at the Shelter.

We slept (at out busiest day) 150 people in the shelter. No electricity, no gas, no water.  We're talking serious survival kind of situations.  In talking with the people there, excluding the elderly, the main reason people could not stay in their homes was heat.  If you had a wood burning stove, you were basically fine.  You could get by. 

FEMA had  a recording when you called them, that gave the residents the Red Cross local number.  They did such unhelpful things as tell people we were giving our generators, gasoline, and kerosene.  Things that to my knowledge the RC has never done, and we were not doing.  FEMA had fliers telling people the could free food if they needed it.  Supposedly they actually gave out about 1000 meals, but after that they referred people to us.

Lesson learned here: Do not, under any condition, assume FEMA or any other government agency will help you.  Help yourself, and help your neighbors.

When I got back from Kentucky, I started to put the things I had seen in order.  I started to mentally make lists of the things I would need when this situation came to my neck of the woods.  I did not want to be in the shelter when (not if) something happened near me.

The main reason I saw in this specific situation was heat.  So I planned on picking up at least two working wood burners.  Then came water, then came food, and in a long-term scenario: barter.

Heat:

My house has a fireplace, and although that is not very efficient, in a pinch it would do until I can find the kind of stoves I really want.  So I moved on to next item.

Water:

Water was pretty easy.  I have a couple of streams on my property, and I can collect rain water.  Some friends and I built a gravity-fed purification system.  We modified two used beer kegs that we bought very cheap to hold water on top and bottom.  We connected them with a 4 foot long stainless steel pipe with a very fine metal mesh at the bottom and  filled with activated charcoal.  When the water is first put through a matrix of gravel and varying degrees of fine sand, then through this system, you get very, very pure water.  We believe it to be near laboratory-grade water.  In fact, this system is just a scaled up version of a purifier at out local pharmaceutical company.

The benefit of using kegs is two-fold.  First, they are readily available almost anywhere, and two they are stainless steel.  I suppose you could also pretty easily convert this into a still if you so desired, for barter or producing barter-goods.

I have been working on something called an Archimedes' Screw to help move the water.  It is basically a screw inside a cylinder.  When a mechanical force is applied to the screw to turn it, either by hand, modified bicycle, or wind turbine, the screw pulls water up the cylinder, from a low place to a high place.  This is not finished yet, so I cannot give it 100% clearance, but the theory seems sound.

Food: 

Food takes a bit longer.  I started by ordering some 6-gallon mylar bags and  a couple packages of 500cc oxygen absorbers.  I went to the local Big Box store, the kind that has a bakery inside, and asked if I could have their used 5-gallon buckets with lids.  They were happy to help; and they were free.  I cleaned them by alternating a bleach wash, a salt wash, and a vinegar with lemon juice wash.  That got all of the icing smell out of the buckets.  That step was more my OCD then a necessity, since the mylar will keep anything from being contaminated.  Although I thought this might reduce the likely hood of insects poking around my buckets...

Place a mylar bag in a 5-gallon bucket.  You want 6-gallon bags so you can press all the air, and seal the very end.  This allows you to re-use the bags several times.  Fill the bag with about 5 gallons of rice, beans, powdered milk, lentils, noodles, red winter wheat... whatever you are storing.  Seal about 9/10's of the bag with a clothes iron being sure to leave room for your O2 absorbers to fit though; I like to make a two-inch seal.  Grab the bag and lift it and shake it a bit to allow the contents to settle some, pressing the air up towards your seal. 

You'll want to do several of these at once, because as soon as you open the O2 absorbers, they start working.  I put the unused one in a zip-lock bag which I suck all the air out as I seal it.  I also put in the tester pellet that comes with the absorbers so I know if they are good or not.

So let's say you are putting up five buckets.  Each bucket gets ~2000cc worth of O2 absorbers.  If you bought 500cc packs, that would be four per bucket for a total number of 20.  Feel free to err on the side of caution here, if you are using some stored in the zip lock bags.  The extra costs of the materials is drastically outweighed by the value of the stored food.  If I have had the O2 absorbers exposed to air more than once, I toss in an extra one, more than twice, I toss in two extra, and I have never had any done more than that.

You want all your buckets prepped for final sealing before you open your O2 absorbers, for obvious reasons.  I usually ask for a hand with this next stage to allow me to move as quickly as possible with as little exposure to general environmental air for the absorbers.

So, toss in your 4 absorbers, press out as much of the air as you can, and finish off the seal.  I like to make my seals 2 inches thick, and again I use a clothes iron.  I use a large dictionary with a wooden cutting board on top to make this seal.  Snap down the lid of the bucket. 

The bucket is necessary to protect the mylar.  Although the mylar bags are strong in the sense that they can bear a lot of weight, pressure, or vacuum, they are highly susceptible to puncture.

Once all your buckets contain O2 absorbers and are sealed with lids on, take clear packing tape and put a long strip on the lid.  I write the date I packed the bucket, the approximate storage life, the contents, and the weight/volume.  I stack the buckets off the ground three-high.

Keep in mind that every dollar you spend here is worth many multiples of that in the future.  Even if we are all wrong on the possibility of Schumeresque Scenarios, think of the money you will save just because of inflation.

Now, speaking of money. If you spend $20 for 50 pounds of rice today, and three years from now, you could sell it for $100; if you did not do your storage well, you're out $100 plus the cost of storage materials, not $20.  So make sure that you do it carefully.  You can also rotate out and in new stock.

Bartering:

No one (or at least not me) has the resources/time/etc to put into long-term storage everything they need for the rest of their lives.  Eventually bullets and beans run out.  So, you will need something to trade. 

I like [non-numismatic pre-1965] junk silver, and one-ounce silver coins/bars.  In my mind, these would work for direct bartering: things like mason jars, food, animals, ammunition, whatever.  Flea markets are a great place to pick up small amounts of junk silver if your budget does not allow for larger purchases, like $500 or $1,000 face-value bags.

If we find ourselves in a prolonged period of hyperinflation like the Former Yugoslavia experienced (more on this later), then we might want to hedge our bets.  You could buy a few 10-ounce silver bars, with the intent to sell them for the hyper-inflated currency before the bottom drops out to purchase needed items.  Just a thought.

One could lay up, mason jars, paraffin, salt, sugar, alcohol, tobacco; lots of things for barter.  There is also the good old stand-by, ammunition.  My concern with ammo for barter, is that you might not know what that ammo is going to be used for, nor know for sure it will not be used against you or someone else.  I do see the incredible versatility and all the good reasons for an ammo-based barter system.  So do what you like.

The other event that really sent a lot of this home for me was a 6-week stay in Serbia.  Listening to stories about how people would smuggle in gas during the embargo, buy any solid good while the money was worth something, and generally do everything they could to survive really had an effect on me.  At the height of the crisis, they had 37% inflation per day culminating in the issue of the 500 billion Dinar note.  This was of course fifteen to twenty years ago, but the scars are still visible.  Belgrade did not demolish or clean up any of the damage done during the 1999 NATO bombing.  The Serbs see that every day. 

There is a quote I like, that many of you may know that I feel is appropriate here:

"History has shown us that government leaders often ignore the fundamental fact that people demand both dignity and freedom. Stripping motivated people of their dignity and rubbing their noses in it is a very bad idea." - John Ross, Unintended Consequences [JWR Adds: This otherwise excellent novel was marred by some vulgarity and gratuitous sex scenes. Beware!]

Back to the practicals...
People stocked up on silver, charcoal, wood burning stoves, anything that could be a store a value and increase their chances of survival.  Another interesting happening was the use of checks.  Checks in Serbia and the Former Yugoslavia are all printed with a maximum amount.  Usually 5,000 Dinars, (about $70 in today's Dinar/ Dollar exchange rate).  So, if you had a business, you are issued a certain number of checks each month.  What happened during the crisis is interesting.  The checks were spontaneously monetized. 

Here is and example of what I mean.  I write a check for 5,000 Dinars, but I don't address it to you.  You give me the goods for the check.  Then, instead of cashing the check at the bank, you give it to someone else for your needs.  This usually went on, especially in very small towns for up to four months before my account was drawn for the amount.

This also had the benefit of me being able to write a check I might not have had the money to back it right away, so it was like credit for me, and cash for you.  This doesn't happen anymore in Serbia, by the way. 

Although I imagine I'm preaching to the choir, I know from my own experiences that it's easy to get down, and disheartened.  But don't fret.  Get to work, lay in your stores, and every day do at least one practical thing that increases your and your family's chance of survival. Keep your powder dry.- KP



James,
Good morning . I have a question in regards to bugging out. I have a niece stationed on Fort Riley [, Kansas] (the waiting wife of nephew in Iraq) that I was wondering how would be the best way to get their little family out of there in a bug out situation . We are retired AF so we could get on base and get her but what about getting stuck . I do not believe the hundreds of thousands of people stationed there are anymore prepared than the rest of the (sheeple ) around this area . I am going have a sit down talk with her today so we can come up with some kind of plan . Thanks, - Diana

JWR Replies: In situations like yours, I recommend that you help them to assemble Bug Out bags, and encourage them to do a "test run". After that, all they can do is keep their gas tanks full and be vigilant in watching news events and always be ready to "beat feet" on short notice. And, of course, be prayerful.



Bill T. sent us this: 2009 Nickel & Dime Minting Stoppage. "The editors of Coin World have reported that the U.S. mint, as of April 23, has ceased minting 2009 nickel and dime issues. The mint has claimed that a precipitous drop in demand from the Federal Reserve for circulating coinage was the primary reason to cease production."

I found this linked at Drudge: ‘Problem’ Banks Rise to 15-Year High on Bad Loans, FDIC Says

From Karen H.: Dollar May Surpass ‘Established Lows,’ Goldman Says

GG sent us this: Preparing for a major bank shakeout; Rising failures and a weak economic recovery could accelerate a decades-long trend towards fewer, bigger banks.



Thanks to Damon for sending this: More Sun for Less: Solar Panels Drop in Price

   o o o

From TLG: Potato blight confirmed in Dane County, Wisconsin

   o o o

Survivalists, Town Clash Over Craftsbury Road. There are two lessons to be learned here: 1.) OPSEC, 2.) Fully research any right-of-way and easement issues before buying a retreat property! Unfortunately, the body of case law that has accumulated on prescriptive easements does not bode well for the new land owners. If a road is used "openly and notoriously" with continuity for many years--in this instance for 150 years--then the weight of legal precedent is definitely on the side of the townsmen. (The length of use that establishes a prescriptive easement varies from state to state.) If Mission New England wants a private road, then they need to move to a different locale. Please pray that they can see the wisdom of this, and that the situation doesn't spin out of control.



"Now if just a small portion of American bank depositors hear that the FDIC had to tap into the US Treasury for funds, and these depositors feel their banked money is at risk and want to withdraw some of it, the mother of all bank runs could ensue. This could create the day of reckoning that many have predicted. A short banking holiday would have to be declared and who knows what happens from there – troops in the streets, issuance of new currency, martial law? Don’t think those in the Federal government haven’t made plans for such an occurrence." - Bill Sardi


Friday, August 28, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



In reading “Preparedness Beginnings” by Two Dogs it struck me that I had been missing a vital part of basic preparedness . . . I was doing it naturally, but I realized how many post I had read that left it out or put it as “I will need to do this when . . . “.  My title tells the story, but let me digress a little and put some background to it: Like “Two Dogs”, who is a retired Marine Corp Officer, I’m a retired Naval Officer who drug his family around the country through nine moves in a 30 year career . So getting to “know” new neighbors was something we just took for granted, what I would like to do is share a few thoughts on the process and ideas to get you started (if you need it).  We are not new to the “preparedness game” since we bought our first retreat property in 1973 in central Texas, have lived through 2 major hurricanes in Florida and 1 in Virginia, 1 major earthquake in California, and have lived and seen the third world up close and personal . Because of what we have seen and lived through, we currently live at our retreat full time in western Virginia.

We had always lived by the four “S’s” of survival: Salvation (the reason to survive is to continue to spread the Good News), Sustenance (water, food and medical), Shelter (a roof over your head and clothing) and Security (to keep your family and friends safe from those that would do harm or take advantage of situations).  I would now like to add a fifth “S”, Surroundings . . . I guess we had always done it, but we just didn’t think about it.  My definition of “surroundings” is to “know your neighbors” who surround you . Are they an asset to you and your family, or a liability?   In today’s world, with the grid working, stores stocked, the rule of law and a culture we think we understand we can lump all our neighbors in the category of “unknown” (or “who cares”/) But if/when things don’t work all those “unknowns” now become “liabilities”, just because you don’t know!    I do not want to offend “Two Dogs”, or anyone else who might have posted similar statements, but having neighbors who own guns and shot regularly, without knowing something about them is a serious liability.   What will that family do if they cannot feed themselves or keep warm in the winter . . . and they have guns?   I agree with “Two Dogs” that you cannot knock on your neighbors’ door and ask “how are you stocked for bean, bullets and Band-aids”. That question must wait until you have spent time getting to know about them , and them you!   Those of you who are extroverts will have no problem with what I’m going to say, but for those introverts this will streeeetch your comfort level. But it is essential, if you really believe things can come apart or go wrong!

I do not intent to open Pandora’s Box about “gulching in place”, a bug-out retreat, escape to the woods or living in the “hinterboonies”. I have probably prepared for everyone of these and more. The point is you will have neighbors in any location, so you need to know who and what they are!   As an old pastor of ours used to say: “yes, but how”?  So let me share some of our thoughts (my wife of 39 years was and is a major part of this process).

First there is just “observation”, what can you just “see”, this is not spying, it happens as you walk, bike or drive by?  Are they home a lot or is it empty during the day?  Do you see kids’ toys; swing sets, bikes, or is the yard a “yard of the month club”?  Do you see a vegetable garden or a flower garden, are there fruit trees or shade trees?  What kind of car do they drive, is it a family sedan, sports car, yuppie SUV, a real off-road rig, or maybe just an old truck?  Do you see bumper stickers with a political message or theme?   Do they have an NRA decal?  Does it have a Department of Defense vehicle decal (active or retired military)?  Is the garage just for vehicles or is it a mechanics paradise?   Do you see a work shop?  Is there a stack of firewood close to the house?  Are you getting the idea?  For those that live in suburbia this is not a hard task, since small yards and high density living make this a fairly quick and easy task.  For those who live more rural, with homes on “acres” of land the house may not even be visible, so you will have to find more inventive ways.  Now this doesn’t tell you a lot, but it is a start and you may find some common ground you have with them.
Next are introductions. A simple knocking on the door and a “hello” starts it off.  Once again this is much easier in suburbia, but it works in rural areas as well. You just have to get up the nerve to do that “cold call”.  We have found that “hi, we’re your new/old neighbor down the street and thought we’d introduce ourselves” works wonders.  Another opportunity is if you see your “neighbors” having a yard sale or have an old car (or anything) for sale, you don’t have to buy anything, but take the opportunity to introduce yourself and begin the conversation.   You are looking for common ground, something to keep the conversation going and continue it another day!  In some cases gated entrances and long “private” drives makes this impractical, but that means you will have to be that much more inventive. 

Something we have done, with mixed results, is a “house warming party” or “block party”.  The old saying “if you feed them, they will come” has a lot of truth in it.  Make these “family” events and plan for the kids activities, it will go a long way to opening doors with parents.  Our experience has been a “personal” invitation works much better than a mailed invitation, even if only a small percentage shows up you have made a start.  It is amazing how quick you can expand your circle of new acquaintances, once you start networking with just a few new folks.   Ask about their jobs or career, how about children (ask a grandparent and the pictures will come out--share yours), do grown children live locally or distant, where do they shop and are there shops to stay away from, where is a good mechanic, do they have a hobby or passion, do they “can” vegetables, sew, do they hunt (this opens up whole new areas for discussion). Do you get the idea?  Let me caution you that you are still not at the point of discussing “beans, bullets and Band-Aids”.   You are trying to “learn” about your neighbors and at the same time they should be learning a little about you.  

Another vital area is “community involvement” . . . are you going to be as asset to your community or a liability?   Okay, how do you “get involved”?  In rural communities we have volunteer fire departments, even the Sheriffs Department looks for volunteers (office work and dispatch) and even if you cannot take an active role there are all the fund raisers they need help with, help out at the local animal shelter. Roll up your selves and join-in.   Join a local church and be an active member. Small rural churches will welcome you with open arms if you pitch-in and the networking possibilities are terrific for expanding your circle of new acquaintances.   We joined a small rural congregation where everyone was related to everyone else and had been for generations and felt this would be a real “test” of our abilities . . . we were worried about the wrong thing . . . we now have so many new friends and acquaintances we have trouble getting to know them on a real personal level (the wife took over piano duties and that freed up the music director to lead worship instead of playing, we took over teaching the teenage Sunday school class, which freed up the Pastors wife for other tasks and helped us get to know their parents . . . make yourself an asset to the community and they will get to know you) .

It is only after you have spend time getting to know them, that you can begin to think about “the discussion” (remember OPSEC, listen a lot, share a little).   By then you should have “arranged” all these new folks into groups, for me they looks like this (these are personal assessments and each must come up with their own, based on your circumstances and situations): the majority are sheeple, nice folks but hopeless clueless (you can spend time trying to “educate” them, but I’ve found this to be “tilting at windmills”, as a rule they are not a liability since they don’t believe in exercising their Second Amendment rights. They will become refugees, some (thankfully very few) will be assigned “liability” risks and that will have to factor into your security considerations (I have found it is a waste of time to reason with them, but they can be “educational” to talk to.) Let me add a caution, if a family has teenagers observe their behavior. It is unfortunate, but peer pressure has turn some nice kids into very self destructive individuals), a few will be like-minded individuals that you can relate and share and plan with. But it is the next group that you will spend the majority of your time with, they are “concerned”, but don’t know what to do!   It is these “willing” folks that should take the majority of your time. Help them learn; to change their lifestyle, set new priorities and prepare for their family.  For some you have already done this and I congratulate you, for others this may not be new, but you have failed to put it into action, for the rest this is new and scary stuff and this article only touches on concepts and leaves a lot of unknowns, but the best way to learn something is to just “do it”!  None of this is easy or quick so do not delay in starting this in your neighborhood. Your life and the life of your family may depend on the knowledge you learn.  - The “Old Salt” in Virginia.



Jim,
Thank you for the great information you share. I read the post about storing eggs with a Vaseline coating and have a couple of questions.

Do they have to be stored on a refrigerated shelf?
Does this work with store bought eggs? My guess is this only works for fresh eggs and I don't have a chicken....yet.

Thank you. - Angela S.

Jim,
First, I want to wish you and yours all the best. Thank you for this site, friends and I have been learning from your site for about a year now. It has continually supplied us with information to work from and discuss.

However, I do have some additional information to add to the letter "A Method for Storing Fresh Eggs for up to Two Years". I had done some research on the subject and earlier in the year, and found quite a bit of information on the subject, however, one study in particular I read and researched seemed to carry the most weight with me. I have not tried all their methods, so I cannot state that their process or conclusions where correct, however, I have included the link for all to read the study and take their own conclusions from it.

I understand that this article from The Mother Earth News is dated, but the methods seemed sound. If I am missing something, or if another test by a more reputable source can be found, I would be most interested in reading the results.

Below, I have included the conclusions from the test:

At the end of seven months (all of our experiment that was finished and processed at the time this issue went to press), then, we had drawn these conclusions about our egg preservation experiment:

[1] Unwashed, fertile homestead eggs seem to store much better than washed, unfertile agribiz eggs. Why? Probably for the simple reason that they're unwashed ... and not because they're fertile. Hen fruit, as it comes from the chicken, is coated with a light layer of a natural sealing agent called "bloom". And, while a good wash may make a batch of eggs look more attractive, it also removes this natural protective coating ... leaving the eggs more subject to aging and attack by the air and bacteria in the air.

[2] The very best way we've found to stash eggs away for long-term storage is in a sealed container at a temperature of 35° to 40°F. Their whites may become somewhat runny looking over a period of time, but even after seven months—the cackleberries stored in this manner smell good, taste good, have a good texture, and—in short—seem "almost fresh".

[3] The widely touted idea of covering eggs with a solution of one part waterglass (sodium silicate) mixed with nine parts of boiled and cooled water does indeed seem to work better than any other "room temperature" preservation method we tried. If our experiences are any indication, though, it's really good for only about five months and is a distant second to controlled refrigeration.

Another point: As good as some eggs kept in waterglass were, almost every batch we opened seemed to contain one real stinker. Which makes it a superior idea to open any waterglassed egg (or any egg, for that matter) separately into a cup ... where it may be inspected before pouring it into a skillet, pan, or dish with other food.

[4] Unwashed, fertile eggs submerged in a solution of 16 parts water/2 parts lime/1 part salt, packed in lard, and coated with lard seem to keep at room temperature almost as well as unwashed fertile eggs that have been given the waterglass treatment. Washed, unfertile eggs do not.

[5] Unwashed, fertile eggs packed in dry sand or coated with vaseline and stored at room temperature keep a little longer-but not much-than unwashed fertile eggs that are just left lying out at room temperature. Washed, unfertile eggs exhibit the same characteristics ... with all storage times running a few days less across the board.

[6] Forget packing any kind of eggs in wet sand or sawdust! Our tests show that such methods of "preservation" can turn eggs rotten within a month and are worse than doing nothing at all to the hen fruit.

Regards, - Jeff D.

JWR Replies: Thanks for that valuable addenda to Brenda L.'s post.

In answer to Angela's question: The storage methods described are intended fro "low room temperature" (namely, the coolest room in your house). Just avoid getting them below freezing. A refrigerator will extend the storage life considerably.

The methods described will work for store bought eggs, but not as well as for fresh barnyard eggs, for two reasons:

1.) Store bought eggs have been washed

and,

2.) Store bought eggs tend to have a thinner shells. (There must be some quite elderly hens out there!)







"Use Enough Gun" Department: Alaska man kills attacking 900 lb. Grizzly with .454 Casull revolver (Thanks to FG for the link.)

   o o o

Frank S. mentioned a video report on the propane re-filler techniques that were previously described in SurvivalBlog.

   o o o

I encountered an interesting thread of discussion in progress, over at TMM Forums: Bartering with Alcohol and Cigarettes. (I don't use either, so I have no expertise. Nor do I approve of them. But for those of you that do, I offer this link.)



"...the Last Contango in Washington will be different from all previous crises. It will be elemental, devastating, and apocalyptic. It will destroy virtually all paper wealth and render virtually all physical capital idle. It will involve hordes of unemployed people roaming the streets, caring for no law and order, pillaging homes and institutions. It will destroy our freedoms. It may destroy our civilization unless we take protective action." - Antal Fekete


Thursday, August 27, 2009


Mister Rawles,
You can store eggs on the shelf for two years with this simple process:

1.When you gather your eggs simply wipe them off with a dry rags to remove anything stuck on the egg. Do not wash them!

2. Get a partner to help with this next step. Cover the palms of your hands with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly. Cover each egg evenly with a thin layer of Vaseline. (This prevents air from entering the shell). Have your partner place the now very slippery egg into a Styrofoam carton. If using cardboard cartons, then line them with plastic wrap first. This prevents the Vaseline from being absorbed into the cardboard.

3. Eggs will store with this method for up to two years. If in doubt about whether or not they are usable simply place them in a bowl of water. If they float then they are no good.But if they stay on the bottom, then they are usable. [JWR Adds: In addition to the aforementioned float test, when cracking stored eggs, it is best to do so one at a time, giving each a sniff test before dumping them into a scrambling pan or recipe mix. BTW, here at the ranch, we do the same for eggs from our hen house, for the off chance that an egg has gone undetected for an extended period of time before being collected.]

4. When ready to use, put a little soap on your hands to remove the Vaseline, rinse, and immediately use the eggs.

I have been doing this for several years. Besides, what good is food storage if you can't have a good Toll House cookie now and again? - Brenda L.



Jim:
The recent Construction Without Electricity article reminded me of a stint spent with the Amish here in southwestern Missouri. I worked making buggy wheels, but one of my duties was to ride a stationary bike which powered a one cylinder compressor so they could spray paint the buggies. The buggy shop owner wanted to run a compressor off his windmill to a pressure tank but the community said that was going too far. With that kind of set up you could run all kinds of air tools. It smacked of being "too modern". So I rode the bike. - Anonymous

Sir:
Regarding the article by Curtis M. (Construction Without Electricity): as a long time devotee of antique hand tools I must mention that one of the most important items to own when using cutting tools (saws, chisels, drills, planes, etc) is a proper set of sharpening instruments. This would include sharpening stones, files, gauges and fixtures. Without the ability to sharpen a tool, it will quickly become useless. In addition, learning the techniques for sharpening the various types of tools will allow a person to save time and render the best possible edge. Thanks with prayers and best wishes to you and your wife. - Jacketch



Mr. Rawles,
Thank you for the blog and the consistency of information that you provide on a daily basis, it is greatly appreciated. In response to the inquiry of water barrel pumps: I have had good luck with this rotary drum pump. They are extremely smooth and easy to operate and I am able to empty a 55 gallon drum of water in quick time. I can not speak as to its longevity since I have not had it long, but it appears to have been constructed well. I recently ordered the one I own to try out and am planning on buy a couple more since we all know that two is one and one is none.

Thank you again for your work with the blog and our prayers are with you and your family. May God's peace and love be evident and sufficient during this time. - James W. in Houston



DHS Warns H1N1 "Could cause serious disruption of social and medical capacities in our country ..."

H1N1 Could Kill as Many as 30,000 to 90,000 in U.S., Report Says. [JWR's comment: If you have been debating taking your kids out of public school and homeschooling, then in my opinion the projected deaths for H1N1 should be the deciding factor. But for some numerical perspective, consider these two figures. 1.) The"usual" seasonal influenzas claims around 30,000 lives annually in the US, primarily among the elderly. 2.) It took fifteen years of the Vietnam conflict to kill about 58,000 American, mostly aged 18 to 25.]

"Chicago Dude" sent us links to a two part C-Span video on a conference on H1N1 swine flu held in Washington DC: Part 1, and Part 2.

Hospitals May Face Severe Disruption From Swine Flu. JWR Adds: Just wait until the small supply of available ventilators is overwhelmed. I've been warning about this since 2006!





$49.9 Million US Contract for .300 Winchester Magnum Ammo. That is a significant quantity, but not enough yet to indicate that the US Army will discard the M24 (chambered in .308 Winchester) as their primary sniper rifle.

   o o o

Playboy magazine jumps on the 2012 bandwagon. (Read only this re-posted online article and for the sake of your mortal soul don't read their disgusting, smutty magazine.) OBTW, mention of this article came to SurvivalBlog directly from Liz Sablich, a Junior Publicist with Playboy Enterprises. Do your parents know what you do for a living? These is honest work out there in more wholesome parts of the publishing industry, Liz.

   o o o

Reader Zac Z. was the first of several readers to mention that Northwest Territorial Mint (one of our advertisers) has introduced some very clever new “Divisible” Silver bars. "When you need to get out of Dodge quick -- easily portable 1-oz. silver bars from Northwest Territorial Mint will have you ready for any emergency! These one of a kind .999-fine silver bars are scored into four sections and have the potential to be split up, making them ideal currency in barter and trade situations." JWR's comment: Have chisel, will travel!

   o o o

Damon suggested this Wall Street Journal article: The Climate Change Climate Change; The number of skeptics is swelling everywhere

 



"Take calculated risks. That is quite different from being rash." - General George S. Patton


Wednesday, August 26, 2009


Children play a part in many of our lives. Protecting them becomes an important issue in daily life as well as in an end of the world as you know it moment. However, what happens when adults can’t be there to protect them? What happens when they may need to protect us?
           
Our government and even many schools across the country, as well as parents and other adults, often do not see the potential in children. I am not talking about the educated potential one might find in the youth of a suburban school, but the potential to rise to the occasion when it is necessary to help themselves or their families.
           
The key to survival is knowledge. What you do with that knowledge and how you apply it at the right moment determines if you survive or not. Why can’t our children have the same knowledge?
           
We have many threats facing our world. Swine Flu or even other pandemics have been brought to the fore front this year. The WHO. is telling the world to expect an explosion of H1N1 cases. What happens if you and your spouse get Swine Flu? Who will take care of your children? Your sick neighbors? Your aging grandparents whom live three states away? Give your children the knowledge to take care of themselves and their families.
           
The following are some ideas on how to engage your children in survival learning (please gauge these ideas on the maturity levels of your own children):

  • Cooking ~ Sit down and plan out a list of easy foods to cook with the least amount of required steps. Make sure you include some easy recipes for items in your food storage pantry. Most children can begin to learn to cook around age 8, provided you explain the dangers in the kitchen and teach them how to properly use the range, oven, sharp knives, etc. Many libraries and booksellers, as well as the internet, offer cooking books or recipes geared towards children. Cook through the recipes with your child, but try to be as hands off as possible, while teaching them proper techniques.
  • Chores ~ Again, start out slowly, but instill an understanding in your children they can and are able to do most any chores in the home. By age 5, most children can at least do the simplest of chores like folding laundry, dusting, and putting away silverware. Give your children a responsibility and work along side them at first. Add laundry and yard work for older children. Again, teaching the safety protocols for certain items. When it comes to cleaning with chemicals, use alternatives made from natural ingredients. Label bottles and provide instructions. However, even children should not use certain chemicals and you should exercise caution.
  • Pets ~ Children always want pets. Make them responsible for those pets. Teach them how to bathe and groom Fido. Show them how to properly and safely remove ticks. Have your child learn the commands to control your dog as well. Let your child clean out the gerbil cage or feed the fish. All these things teach children how to be more responsible.
  • Protection ~ Enroll your child into a Mixed Martial Arts program or a boxing class with the understanding this is not for beating up little brother but to protect his/her self from others whom might want to harm him/her. For older children, teach gun safety. Show them your weapons, take them to the firing range, and let them understand what it feels like to shoot your P22 or your 12 gauge. Let them practice at shooting targets as well as clays. Take them hunting if you can. And if you have a bow set-up teach them how to shoot arrows as well. By properly teaching gun safety, archery, and self defense your child would be well prepared to defend themselves or to hunt for food.
  • Bartering ~ As odd as it may sound, take your child to garage sales or flea markets. Any age can do this. Make them use their good manners when approaching the seller to barter or haggle over prices. Teach them about good deals and help them to find things that may be useful at a later time.
  • First Aid ~ Children as young as five years old can put a band aid on a wound. Get a first aid manual and teach your children the proper way to care for cuts, scrapes, and other wounds. Let them know what alcohol and peroxide are used for as well as other medical topicals. Show them the difference between when to use a large butterfly bandage or gauze and tape. Teach them the proper way to take someone’s temperature. Explain when professionals should be called in to help or if you are in a situation where there are no professionals available what should be done. If you have a child that gets woozy at the sight of blood help them to get over their fear as best as possible or make sure that particular child has a different responsibility.

While many of the aforementioned tasks may sound obvious for all parents or care-givers, it always helps to remember your children can accomplish many tasks as long as they are given the chance to try. There are a variety of adult survival activities that you can tailor towards your children. Teach your child about your own family op-sec and basic safety when it comes to dealing with strangers. Above all, always remember to stress safety when teaching your children.

Give them a chance to hone their skills by taking them camping. Allow them to start the campfire (with parental guidance), cook the camp dinner, pitch the tent, etc. Get “lost” in the woods and have them bring you back to camp using a compass and map. Then later, have them look for a cache using your GPS. Teach them about the animal tracks your family sees and what animal crossing look like. In the evening, teach them the major constellations and how they can use those for direction as well.

I personally recommend the book The Boy's Book of Outdoor Survival by Chris McNab. Although it is titled "for boys" and has pictures of boys in the book, I think it is highly appropriate for girls as well. Every child should know how to take care of themselves in survival situations.

If you can help your children and give them the knowledge to help themselves and others, even at a young age, you will enable them to be more responsible for themselves for the rest of their lives. As a parent, you are responsible for teaching your children.



Dear Mr. Rawles,
Your family is in our prayers, and we hope everything is going as well as possible.

Imagine my surprise today as approximately ten dirt bikes drove by me up the street, but weren't making any noise. I expressed surprise to the friend in the car with me, who responded with, "Oh yeah, there's a company that makes battery powered dirt bike motorcycles, just around the corner."

Out of curiosity, I headed around that corner and discovered that they were having a large open house, with free dirt bike rides, information on their products, and free hot dogs. Naturally, always looking for a way to "store" food, I eased over to the BBQ grill for a hot dog. At the same time, I admired the appearance of their motorcycles. As it turns out, they have lithium ion batteries packed into a container about the size of a pick-up truck battery. These will power the bikes for approximately two hours. If you're wealthy enough, you can have an extra, charged battery nearby that you can easily swap out for another two-hour run. It seemed eerie watching these bikes drive around, making only the amount of noise that a small child's remote-control car would make. They have three or four models, some for the street and some for off-road use, and one that is a hybrid. They aren't cheap, as they vary in price from $7,000-9,000K. They sort of reminded me of when I was a kid, when the first Honda Trail 90s came out, but with a lot less noise. As I plan my retirement home in Oregon, I anticipate it will be off grid, with solar panels providing most of the power, and these battery-powered bikes would fit right in, especially since my property is rather steep. One of the salesmen indicated that they sold two bikes to a couple of farmers in Northern CA who like the idea of being able to approach someone tampering with their crops fairly quietly on a motorized vehicle.



Tsunami of Home Foreclosures to hit U.S. (A tip of the hat to Heather for the link.)

Court Orders Federal Reserve to Disclose Emergency Loan Details (It's about time!)

DD sent us a link to this Newsweek article: Slums of Suburbia Sorting through the rubble of California's foreclosure tsunami. JWR's comment: They were Living Large for a while, on NINJA loans, now they are Living Lard, in Manteca.

Also from DD: White House, Congress project record deficits; Both see the overall national debt nearly doubling over the next decade

From Chris: Senator warns of hyperinflation rivaling the 1980s

Greg C. mentioned the following articles: Rhode Island governor to shut down state government for 12 days

Labor Leader Named Head of New York Fed [JWR notes: Somehow, this doesn't give me a warm. fuzzy feeling, since I don't trust union bosses any more than I do banksters.]

Items from The Economatrix:

Oil Falls 4% After Hitting 10-Month Peak of $75

Latest in Stimulus: Cash for Refrigerators

Brookings "Experts" Admit Stimulus a Bust

Federal Reserve Paying Interest on Excess Reserves, Why Lend When You Can Earn Interest For Holding on to Funds With Low Risk; The US Treasury and Federal Reserve Walking a Tightrope

CBO Warns of Higher Unemployment; DC Worries About the Deficit

Preparing for the Worst. "Every time I hear a politician mention the word stimulus, my mind flashes back to high school biology class, when I touched battery wires to a dead frog to make it twitch. Today, you and I are the dead frogs. Pretty soon the dead frog will be fried frog."

Basket Cases (The Mogambo Guru)



Honoré scolds Louisiana on storms. A quote (paraphrased): “Every one dollar you spend on preparedness, saves you nine dollars during the crisis”. Don't miss the wisdom included in the last few lines of the article. (Thanks to Jason A for the link.)

KT spotted this: Laos Government Continues to Hunt Former CIA Secret Army. JWR's comment: Unless they've been covertly re-supplied (which I doubt), the fact that they are still mainly using US-made weapons is indicative that they have been fighting defensively in a conservative fashion, rather than offensively. Otherwise, they would have been out of .30 Carbine. 5.56 mm and 40mm ammunition long ago, and would have transitioned to mostly battlefield pickup weapons (Kalsashnikovs).

   o o o

New Clue Found to Disappearing Honey Bees (thanks to KAF, who was the first of several readers to send us the link.)

   o o o

[Democrat North Carolina State] Senator Soles shoots, injures man during home invasion. Oh, but wait a minute! Grass Roots North Carolina gave him just st a one star rating on gun rights. Do I detect a whiff of hypocrisy? (Much like Jeff's aforementioned Mayors Against Illegal Guns Coalition.) Perhaps its just peasants like us that he wants to disarm--not "special" people like himself.



"They made up their minds
And they started packing
They left before the sun came up that day
An exit to eternal summer slacking
But where were they going
Without ever knowing the way?

They drank up the wine
And they got to talking
They now had more important things to say

And when the car broke down
They started walking

Where were they going without ever knowing the way?"

The Way, by Fastball, (1991)


Tuesday, August 25, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



There is often a good deal of attention paid to the accumulation, storage and usage of critical supplies performed in the process of preparation, but one thing I rarely see discussed is proper management of your carefully gathered inventory before, during or after a critical event comes into being. 

It's important to consider viewing your family or team as a quasi business entity and recognize that one of the top cited reasons for small business failure is poor inventory management.  Inventory issues can cause nightmarish headaches for any business, and the consequences for your family will only be magnified if you do not begin to view you group, and their supplies, as important assets that necessitate careful management.

Throughout the article I'll refer to the inventory concepts using canned food as examples, but the procedures could be applied to anything you stock: from ammunition, to clothes, to cleaning supplies. 

First in, first out (FIFO) rotation of inventor should be used.  Generally you want to apply this concept to your food storage and consume the items you acquire first as soon as possible. It makes sense to mark dates on cans when you acquire the food, but do you relish the idea of staring at a huge shelf or bin of cans, buckets or jars and trying to determine which one to consume first?  The following control systems can make life much easier:

1) Split your items into color dated 'blocks'. 
For example, if you have canned goods you plan on consuming over the course of the coming year, mark six months worth of the oldest cans with a green marker and then mark the rest of your cans with a red marker.  Items carrying the green mark get first used. 

This will create a quick and easy visual trigger every time you dip into your inventory.  When you begin to break into your red inventory, it's time to pull up another six months worth of cans and mark those with your green marker.  A note or sign indicating which color is currently being consumed should be posted near by so all members who have the ability to draw on your resources are sure to take the proper goods. A bit of time spent once a month saves countless hours digging through supplies looking for the oldest items to consume first. 

2) Implement a simplified Kanban-esque system.
This is a process where a small amount of stock is kept on hand and is replaced as it nears depletion.  This process is mostly beneficial for helping you consume and replace inventory prior to a critical event. 

    - Have a portion of your supplies in a convenient location to the kitchen (again, ideally using the oldest first) and attach a small card to the last item of the 'lot' which lists the good being consumed, and the quantity that needs be replaced from your long term storage. 

    - When you reach the last item that has the card attached, you need to replenish your on hand stock with inventory from the long term location. The card should be placed in a re-order folder to ensure that your long-term storage has been re-supplied for the same amount you just pulled into normal, day-to-day usage. 

    - Upon re-supply, the card is attached once again to the last item of the lot and the process repeated, as needed, ensuring your replenishment process is accurate, timely and efficient. 

At a glance, you can look in your order folder and determine how much and what you need to be on the look out for in order to restore your long-term inventory to its pre-determined levels.  In this manner, you only re-order what you've used, and you ensure you're constantly rotating inventory to reduce the risk of spoilage.

As a quick example: you use one can of beans a day, keeping seven in your kitchen cabinet.  In your pantry you toss a card under can #7 that simply reads: Beans: 7.  When you get to the can of beans that sit atop this card, retrieve seven more from your storage and place the tracking card in your re-supply location.  At any time a review of this location would tell you every consumed item you need to replace for your long-term location.

3) Security and control. 
Ideally your inventory would be kept behind a gated barrier. While you'd like to assume that friends, family and your team would not stoop to theft, you never know what circumstances you may find yourself in that provides an exposure to your resources you never intended others to have.  In addition to the possibility of theft, you run the risk of children or others who are normally used to grabbing a snack whenever they like simply helping themselves, not through an act of maliciousness, but simply not realizing how the situation has changed.  To prevent this accidental (or otherwise) over consumption of supplies you should store inventory in a location not commonly accessed.  Keep your daily and generally consumed inventory readily accessible in a kitchen pantry, keep your long term supplies in a separate, locked facility.  This can be something as simple as a basement door where the knob has been replaced with a device that locks from the outside. 

I can't stress this point enough: The more casually you allow people to treat your long-term inventory, the more your errors will multiply. 

4) Visual inspection and count. 
How can your trade or use what you don't know you have?  You should conduct a full inventory count inventory twice a year.  Material should be counted and a general visual inspection conducted in order to identify any items or containers that might have visible damage.  If a container has become damaged, you may want to accelerate its usage or consider trading it to avoid wasting the contents inside.  If you identify a large container of goods early on that has become damaged that you have no hope of repairing or re-sealing, early detection will allow you to trade this off while it still holds some intrinsic value.  If you had waited a year and only discovered it when the decay was too far advanced, you could be forced to take an unsavory loss.  Value considerations aside, it's important to know what you believe you have is actually usable.  If you're depending on supply XXX and upon time of usage you discover it's a waste, not only do you find yourself at a loss for whatever you paid or traded for the item, you may now be short a critically important item. 

If you have a large group of people and supplies, you may want to increase this twice a year count to once a quarter. It's crucial you identify errors or missing items early only to keep small issues from snowballing to huge ones.  Quantity and quality inspections should have a primary counter and a second person verifying accuracy.

5) Record keeping. 
I'd suggest use computers while you can but print your records out, every time, so you have a hard copy.  A simple spreadsheet will do to start and if you don't have access to Microsoft Excel, you can utilize Google Docs to get started.  Your inventory records should include the item, the quantity, the date acquired and the use by date if applicable. 

This data allows you to track over time what you're using, and how often, and allows you to better prepare for not only your requirements, but also to identify what you may have that's not being fully utilized and trade it before you run the risk of spoilage.  When planning your food needs or trade possibilities, knowing you have 100 cans if item X is good; however, knowing half of those are 1 year past their use date and your consumption has dropped by a third would allow you to keep an eye open for possible barter opportunities in advance.

Try to keep your records in pencil.  Speaking from accounting experience, it's much easier to correct a mistake in pencil that it is in ink.  With a pen, over time, your records simply get sloppy from crossed out figures and attempted error corrections.

6) Second review on scrap or waste. 
Before any item is trashed or written off as a loss, obtain a second opinion.  One man’s trash is another's treasure and one of your group members may have knowledge of the item that allows you to squeeze the last few drops of value from something before your dispose of it.  Any value you can recover is better than 0.

It’s good to have stuff, be it ammunition, food or barter items. 

It’s better to have a lot of that stuff. 

It’s best to know exactly what you have, and when it’s approaching the end of its life, so you can use it in a timely fashion or trade it to someone who can. The topics above only touch on the very, rudimentary basics of inventory control but it's important to consider proper management of your assets and realize the benefits you can obtain through accurate tracking, control and utilization of your material resources. 

JWR Adds: Keep in mind that cooking oil that has gone rancid is often still quite suitable for stretching your diesel supply. (In effect, formulating your own biodiesel, up to 10 percent, by volume, in hot weather. This is not recommended for cold weather unless you have a fuel tank heater, or a fully-capable biodiesel making system and a vehicle that is rigged with two tanks--one for biodiesel and the other with dinodiesel, that is used when starting up and shutting down your vehicle.) And food that is no longer palatable for humans because of taste issues (rather than rancidity) are often still safe to feed to poultry or swine.



Sir:
When I was a young Marine in the first gulf war I heard that it was quite common for tank crews to blind the enemy with the tanks laser. Do you know of any protective glasses/goggles that would prevent retina damage from lasers? Thanks, - Keith

JWR Replies: The problem is that you need a separate filter for each ranges of wavelengths (measured in nanometers). By the time that you stack enough filters to stop all of the non-eye safe laser threats, you end up with something about as opaque as welder's goggles. I guess this explains why the Stormtroopers in Star Wars were such bad shots. ;-)

There may be some practical countermeasures. My best guess is that it would be Alexandrite lasers that would be used for intentional blinding, as I described in "Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse". Do a web search on "Dazer and Stingray." You will find some scary stuff. I discussed both eye safe and non-eye safe lasers in a series of articles that I wrote when I was a full time associate editor for Defense Electronics magazine, back in the late 1980s. These articles concerned the U.S. Army's now defunct Dazer (hand held) and Stingray (tactical vehicle and aircraft-mounted) laser weapon programs. Both had been intended to counter enemy EO sensors, but were unfortunately indiscriminate in damaging the Mark I human eyeball. (They used high power Alexandrite lasers, which have a wavelength that is not eye safe.) As I recall, the Dazer program was cancelled around 1992, and the larger Stingray system development was de-funded in 1996, right around the time of ratification of the UN Protocol on Blinding Laser Weapons. (Main reference: Rawles, James W. "Directed Energy Weapons: Battlefield Beams." Defense Electronics, August 1989. v. 21, no. 8, p. 47-54.) If you buy a pair of goggles or sunglasses designed to protect against Alexandrite lasers (+/- 755 nanometers), they would also have some effectiveness against lasers in adjacent wavelengths.



Hello,
I am in Houston, Texas, and I just purchased two 55-gallon plastic drinking water drums here semi-locally, but my problem is that the pumps were not included! I am wondering if you have some you are selling, or you could tell me where to get several of them. The threaded openings are 2 inches in diameter, and the drums are just short of three feet deep. I'm looking for hand-operated pumps, of course, not electric! Could you please get back with me on this? Thank you! - Donna C/

JWR Replies: I've had good experiences with Pacer drum pumps. BTW, I've heard that the less expensive pumps that are widely available are not nearly as sturdy, and are far more likely to crack and fail.



Dear Jim,
I have multiple ARs and AKs, and enjoy both. I would definitely recommend the AK for a truck gun, or for less experienced shooters. I'd like to debunk the "clean an AR several times a day" myth.

I have 24 years of service, USAF and US Army, active and Guard, two combat deployments, have served as armorer, weapons courier, PMI instructor and range safety NCO, and have 24 years of unbroken Expert ratings with the M16, M16A1, M16A2, M4 and GUU5P (an M4A1 with a USAF accent), including 15 perfect scores (three of them while wearing a gas mask). I have competed for the Guard in National Match. I test and review firearms for this site and others, and several manufacturers trust me to offer feedback.

A big part of the problem with AR type weapons is the fault of the US Army. I became very aware of this when my wife went through Basic Combat Training at age 36 in 2005--I already had 19 years of service. I taught her what she needed to know before she departed.

To say the current state of Army Basic Marksmanship Instruction is disgraceful is complimentary. She was handed a weapon without being instructed on how to clear and check the chamber first (luckily, she knew this. She was the only person in her platoon to check the chamber upon issue). Then, she was handed a "cleaning kit" that contained only a toothbrush, no rod or jag sections.

When I mentioned this on my forum, I had an infantry officer (Major, Ranger and Airborne qualified, masters degree) argue with me that this was unavoidable, parts unobtainable, etc. It was hard to gently inform a friend that he was making excuses for an unacceptable state of affairs.

Cleaning solvent is now considered HAZMAT, so cleaning is performed only with [Break Free] CLP. They were not issued CLP. Her Drill Sergeant was thrilled when I mailed a package containing a complete cleaning kit and two bottles of CLP. He'd been demonstrating the last ditch method of using shaving cream as a cleaner.

So, this starts with troops who are not taught how to operate or maintain the weapon properly, using weapons that have been beat to death for decades without proper maintenance. Take a look at this photo. (Ionic action between barrel nut and receiver caused failure of joint. Photo by Ranger Instructor, summer 2009).

After demob, I fired an M4 for annual qualification that had not been cleaned its entire time in Afghanistan (it was not my weapon). I shot 39/39 and tied the state champion, who was using his civilian Bushmaster match carbine. Lack of cleaning is not the entirety of the problem.

The biggest mistake I saw in the Sandbox was troops drenching their weapons with oil. Especially in the 2 billion year old Arabian desert, where the "sand" is fine as clay and dusty, this is an invitation for mud. A mostly dry weapon (dry teflon is preferred) will function very well, and will blow itself clean of sand with each shot--one time the direct gas impingement is very useful. Oil should be used as a repair step after extensive firing if malfunctions occur. Oily weapons will clog up, and repeated cleaning will not solve the problem, and, as many Vietnam vets will attest, can make things worse, as well as wearing out the weapon. Once you start oiling it, you will have to keep oiling it to sluice the crud out. The hot gas will also bake the oil into gum.

In temperate environments, either dry teflon or the prescribed lubrication from the manual should be adhered to, and, if possible, I highly recommend a swap to a hard chrome bolt carrier group, as was originally designed for the weapon. It's more consistent in lockup, more reliable, has much higher lubricity and is easier to clean. Using original USAF issue M16s (not M16A1s) with the hard chrome bolt carrier group (BCG) and no forward assist, my experience as Opposing Forces (OPFOR) Aggressor was that I could easily run 1,000 rounds of blanks through in a couple of hours with no problems, and we cleaned the weapons by dumping components into a solvent tank, and pulling out parts until we had a complete rifle, without nitpicking about who had which upper or bolt--which every expert will insist is impossible. I and my teammates were buried in piles of fill sand as blinds and crawled through muck, and our weapons did not have any significant issues (we kept the ejection port covers closed). Bad magazines are an issue from time to time, so be sure to check them.

Since then, I've done the same 1,000 rounds of live ammo on a dusty range using cheap Wolf ammo, and had zero malfunctions while deployed (In fairness, most were on a training range, but it was shortly after a 35 day sandstorm). There is nothing wrong with the M16 family if it is cleaned right the first time, and treated properly.

Given the above, I do reiterate that as a weapon to be left in a vehicle for an extended period ("trunk gun") or for less experienced shooters, the AK is a better choice. Its accuracy is "good enough" for 90% of shooters. Its stopping power is adequate. Ammunition, parts and upgrades are readily available. The side- and underfolder variants are very compact and convenient for carry and storage. It's easy to maintain and field stripping involves no small parts. It is very cost effective.

However, a look at which armies carry AKs and which armies carry AR variants (including the G36 and L85 based on the AR18), it's clear that modern, well trained forces do much better with a Stoner design over a Kalashnikov.

Ideally, of course, one should own several of both. - Michael Z. Williamson, SurvivalBlog's Editor at Large









"Knowledge will forever govern ignorance; and a people who mean to be their own governors must arm themselves with the power which knowledge gives." - James Madison


Monday, August 24, 2009


I've made several jars of canned butter using the recipe at the End Times Report web site and they turn out just fine and will keep for three years or more. This is very economical to do. Here is also another resource for purchasing canned butter - but making it is so easy and very good. My prayers go to you and your beloved wife as our Lord and Savior prepares her way into His presence. He holds you both very close in this time. - Pat B. in California

Mr. Rawles:
Now you can purchase canned butter from The Internet Grocer or make it yourself using the directions below. [JWR Adds: Be sure to use the appropriate safety measures including wearing long sleeves, gloves, an apron, and goggles. Boiling hot butter can cause very serious burns. To stay safe, just think of it as napalm.]

1. Use any butter that is on sale. Lesser quality butter requires more shaking (see #5 below), but the results are the same as with the expensive brands.

2. Heat pint jars in a 250 degree oven for 20 minutes, without rings or seals. One pound of butter slightly more than fills one pint jar, so if you melt 11 pounds of butter, heat 12 pint jars. A roasting pan works well for holding the pint jars while in the oven.

3. While the jars are heating, melt butter slowly until it comes to a slow boil. Using a large spatula, stir the bottom of the pot often to keep the butter from scorching. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes at least: a good simmer time will lessen the amount of shaking required (see #5 below). Place the lids in a small pot and bring to a boil, leaving the lids in simmering water until needed.

4. Stirring the melted butter from the bottom to the top with a soup ladle or small pot with a handle, pour the melted butter carefully into heated jars through a canning jar funnel. Leave 3/4" of head space in the jar, which allows room for the shaking process.

5. Carefully wipe off the top of the jars, then get a hot lid from the simmering water, add the lid and ring and tighten securely. Lids will seal as they cool. Once a few lids "ping," shake while the jars are still warm, but cool enough to handle easily, because the butter will separate and become foamy on top and white on the bottom. In a few minutes, shake again, and repeat until the butter retains the same consistency throughout the jar.

6. At this point, while still slightly warm, put the jars into a refrigerator. While cooling and hardening, shake again, and the melted butter will then look like butter and become firm. This final shaking is very important! Check every 5 minutes and give the jars a little shake until they are hardened in the jar! Leave in the refrigerator for an hour.

7. Canned butter should store for three years or longer on a cool, dark shelf. [It does last a long time. We have just used up the last of the butter we canned in 1999, and it was fine after five years.] Canned butter does not "melt" again when opened, so it does not need to be refrigerated upon opening, provided it is used within a reasonable length of time.

Best Regards, - Jane S.



James
In reply to the 20 Aug 09 letter on the AK series rifles, I feel I should add my experiences. I recently returned from Afghanistan where I worked as a security contractor. When I got there our guard force was armed with the AK but many of the rifles were in poor condition. An initial inspection showed at least 30% of them weren't worth having and the initial range training proved things to be much worse. I won't bore you with the details but in the end we had to go through 56 rifles to find 19 that would pass muster for the static guards. Even then we had to be very generous in the standards we would accept. Ultimately we were forced to accept any rifle that functioned properly (safe, full auto and semi auto), could hold a group no larger than 3 inches at 25 yards (yep, that bad) and could adjust the sights to the point where 3 of the 5 round group would hit the 3 inch center of our locally produced zero target.

I say this to stress that maintenance is still vitally important to ensuring the proper function of the rifle. Much of the so called evidence of the durability of the AK is anecdotal evidence. [Colonel] Hackworth's book About Face: Odyssey of an American Warrior mentions pulling a rifle out of the mud and it running through a full magazine without fail and some tout that as the ultimate accomplishment of small arms. What is not covered is if the rifle could hit a man sized target when it did so. Ultimately making noise is no guarantee of success, stopping people is and that is best done by actually hitting the target. You can not abuse and/or ignore a rifle, even the AK, and expect it to function indefinitely.

There are also questions as to the wound ballistics of the 7.62x39 ammunition. Trauma surgeons in Vietnam said that 'clinical experience showed many wounds from the weapon (AK-47) resemble those of much lower velocity handguns'. Just being a .30 caliber round does not make it somehow superior. Once again going back to our Vietnam era surgeons they tell us the 5.56 round of the day were far worse to the health and well being of people hit by them. This does not always have meaning to the survivor as we are not limited to the military loadings. Zak Smith has an informative article on maximizing the potential of the 7.62x39 but it is no longer on his site, I believe it has been included in a recent compilation book on the AK. For those who have the AK as their go to gun and who can load for it it is probably worth reading. There are tradeoffs to be made with any decision and while the wound ballistics (both science and the surgeons who treated the wounds tell us) may not be the most impressive my experience shows me they do a number on cars while still allowing the shooter to stay on target through a long burst.

The AK is a fully capable choice if the shooter understands the limitations of the gun and cartridge. Unfortunately I think far too many people allow emotion to take over and they shut out logic and the repeatable results of scientific testing. While on leave from Afghanistan I attended a training course where I used the AK and I learned a lot. Many of it's limitations can be countered with decent training and hands on experience and while I now have a more favorable view of the gun but it still isn't my first choice.

One last note, the Saiga can be adapted to use the cheaper surplus magazines with just a little time and effort so I don't view that as a reason not to get the Saiga over the WASR. Converting to the military configuration is far more complex but still relatively simple for anyone reasonably handy. That information is easy to find online so I won't add to the length of this note to cover it. Most parts that you find commercially available in the US can be used on either the WASR or the Saiga (and the Saiga is a better- built gun). Ultimately it will cost a little more than the WASR if you convert it to the military configuration so cost may yet be the deciding factor for some. - Jake (No longer vacationing in Kabul)

Jim-
Thanks for posting the well balanced piece on the AK and it's potential and pitfalls. The chief shortcoming I find in the AK is indeed the public perception and Pavlovian reaction to it's distinctive profile and reputation.

On the plus side, and not mentioned in the piece, if you live in the heavily wooded and brushy South, the AK is the perfect rifle for the 40 to 100 yard shots you are likely to see. The AK is very easy to sling or carry in the thick woods.

Also, it doubles as a great Whitetail gun in the kind of country some of us live in and I've had good results using it in tree stands.

Two to four MOA is about right in the accuracy department.

Thanks, and God's peace, - Palmetto


Hey Jim,
I was happy to see the AK getting a nice write up on your blog the other day. I have trained with the AK for a number of years now and really appreciate not only how durable it is, but also how easy it is to teach others to use and maintain.

Maybe I am just lucky, but out of the score of AK's that I have used all but 2 (Built by a questionable shop) where very combat accurate! Many folks get hung up on their gear being super accurate when they can't even come close to utilizing even the tenth part of that accuracy in the field.

From someone who spends at least some part of most days out and about with a long gun as a truck/farm/ranch gun the AK has many attractive qualities and I find it complimenting my .30-30 very well when I want to be better armed and don't have to worry about keeping a low profile.

As far as running the AK learn to run it as an AK don't try to run it as an AR, FAL, M1A or any other system! Yea there is cross over, but many of the things I have heard folks "complain" about are things that when used properly either don't matter or are advantages when run as an AK should be run.

Don't think of the AK as a poor alternative for those who can not afford better! It is a easy to live with system that most anyone can learn to shoot and maintain in short order. I have many other choices and I find the AK to be a very useful tool that many would find a valuable addition to their tool box!

There are some good AK schools out there that can teach you how an AK should be run! Go out and get the knowledge while you can.

You and your family continue to be in our prayers! - SD in West Virginia

Sir,
The article about AK type rifles had some great points about the usefulness of the AK platform. I personally believe that the AK is preferable to the AR for most people. I do find myself in the minority of people that isn't true for however. Those of us with military or law enforcement backgrounds that have spent years training with the AR have to relearn several concepts to run the AK as well as we already run an AR. In the civilian world it would take me years to unlearn the AR basics, so I sadly traded my AK rifles for other supplies.

However, there was one AK that I loved. It was, in fact, a Saiga. It had taken a trip to Broken Arrow, Oklahoma to Tromix Lead Delivery Systems. It was reworked into a conventional AK platform with a side folder stock. It was the most accurate and reliable of the AK rifles I've owned or shot. The process isn't overly difficult, you can find do it yourself instructions in several different locations. It takes just a basic amount of skill and some basic tools and the Saiga can be reworked into the conventional format with pistol grip that easily accepts surplus magazines. - JB

Sir,
I agree with the author on most points and would add that the rifle and it's ammunition are common in these parts. I would disagree about it's accuracy and find most of the variants of the rifle can only be expected to shoot 5-6" groups. Although this might seem lousy, I believe it would good enough for snap shooting within 150 yards. Given heavily wooded terrain, I might expect most encounters would be less than 100 yards. Using silhouettes, my groups with the AR-15 during training were not significantly better. Zeroing the AK properly by centering the pattern it sprays is important. Saying the AK 'groups' is generous. Many more shots than the 3 to 5 rounds required for a much more accurate rifle are needed to find it's pattern. Zeroing it's pattern can be a frustrating process, yet it proves to be worthwhile.

Perhaps another little known secret is the fragmenting 8M3 bullet found on Wolf's Military Classic ammunition and famed Sapsan brand. A recent Guns and Ammo publication featured the AK and it's ammunition. This is the next best in performance to [American commercial] soft point ammunition. A less expensive alternative isn't found. Try it on a gallon sized milk jug filled with water and the difference between FMJ and the 8M3 is instantly noticeable. Ballistic gelatin shows 3 inches of penetration before it violently fragments and penetrates about 14 inches. - E. L.

James
I agree with the article on the AK. When the boy king was elected I was forced by circumstances to get a battle rifle and couldn't find a decent AK in my area that was worth having, so I ended up with a shorty AR. I'm back to thinking of an AK for my third rifle, after my that and my SKS.

For those folks who don't know much about the Kalashnikov, I encourage them to go to Gabe Suarez's forum. He has several subforums about the AK and has also written several books on the gun. He also offers training classes through Suarez International as well as DVDs on various AK related subjects. Gabe also offers AK parts and furniture through his forum store.

Folks on warrior talk are also willing to answer questions from people wanting to learn the AK too. They are good people and like to help get people up and ready for whatever is coming in the future. - LK in West Virginia

 

JWR,
I've been reading your site for a while now and want to thank you very much for it. The post regarding AK 47s was interesting and useful. I'll add my two Lincoln's worth.

The Primary accuracy problem inherent with AKs (and with SKSs) is not so much internal, it's the short sight radius. There is now a relatively cheap fix for this. Tech Sights (tech-sights.com) now sells an aperture sight for both. It's a vast improvement over the factory sight. It also fits the Saiga. I've got one on an SKS (I had Williams [sight] on it before) and I really like it. The only drawback to it is that it now takes a screwdriver to strip the rifle.

I'm an Instructor In Training with Appleseed, and we regularly have folks who shoot Rifleman with AKs (Expert on the Army Qualification Test).

During the mid-1980s to early-1990s, I spent a fair amount of time in a few garden spots in Africa (involved in the aid business) and occasionally toted a rifle. It was invariably an AK, unless I was lucky enough to find an FN. My favorites were the South Africans and the Galil.

Thanks for the work you're doing. God Bless. And our prayers go out for the Memsahib. - Capt. G. in Texas

 

Mr. Rawles,
I'm writing in regard to the article ZM wrote about the usefulness of the AK-47 as a survival weapon. In his article he sings the praises of the M4/AR15 over the AK due to the inherent accuracy of the M4 over the AK. While he does note the AK platform is more dependable than the M4/AR15, I think he under estimates just how important that aspect is in the comparison of the two platforms.

Frankly, unless you're a trained infantryman who has spent considerable time with the M4 and are prepared to clean the weapon numerous times a day, the M4 is one of the least ideal weapons to rely upon in a survival situation. On the other hand, the ruggedness and dependability of the AK, with adequate accuracy, is the ideal firearm for the survivalist who has more to worry about than cleaning his weapon numerous times a day.

Just how important is dependability? On March 23rd, 2003, a convoy of the 507th Maintenance was ambushed at Nasiriyah, Iraq. Aside from the fact that 11 American soldiers were killed and 6 taken POW, the US Army's after action report found that every single American firearm had been rendered inoperable by the desert conditions. M2s, M4s, M16s, and the SAW-all of them were found to be nothing more than good-looking clubs during the battle. Of course, the Iraqi Kalashnikov didn't have the problems the American firearms had, and they held the field after the remnants of the 507th high-tailed it out of Nasiriyah. There have been other noted incidents of M4s and SAWs failing in the desert conditions of Afghanistan and Iraq. One has to wonder how many Americans have paid the ultimate price over the last 40+ years dealing with such an unreliable weapon.

In conclusion, the M4/AR15 is a excellent range rifle or SWAT weapon, but unless you intend on cleaning the firearm numerous times a day, which is doubtful in a SHTF situation, it is best to go with an AK or other dependable rifle and take a pass on the finicky M4 platform. - Rusty in New Mexico







Reader G.D.T. sent us a story that recently appeared in The Wall Street Journal. G.D.T. wrote: "I saw the link about cattle rustling in Pennsylvania. Now folks are stealing hay in Texas."

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Tamara posted this bit of levity that has a serious lesson attached: A more dangerous breed of junkie. The point is that there was no Matrix-esque bullet-dodging going on. This was just an all-too common case of a poorly trained cop that unloaded in the general direction of his intended target--and he didn't hit score any hits. Only hits count!

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Inmate Uprising in Kentucky Destroys Prison

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Workplace Suicides Surge by 28%



"In ancient times they had no statistics so they had to fall back on lies." - Stephen Leacock


Sunday, August 23, 2009


James:

I have a question for you. Should a person keep old $20 gold coins, or convert them into 1 oz. gold American Eagles? This would assume coins with no great [numismatic] value, just old coins. Also, what about $5 and $10 gold pieces? Thanking You in Advance ,- Jim A. in Montana

JWR Replies: As I've mentioned before, the often-mentioned threat of another gold confiscation is overblown, so essentially, "gold bullion is gold bullion." For buyers here in the US, I recommend American Eagles from the US Mint, because they are widely recognized and accepted. There are also some tax advantages to buying them. (In some states, for instance, there is sales tax charged on all gold bullion except US Mint Gold Eagles.)

Unless your $5, $10, and $20 gold pieces have sentimental value, then I recommend selling (or trading) them a like-value (but greater weight) of gold American Eagles. The 1-ounce variety have the lowest premium. But if one of your concerns is the ability to barter for necessities in the midst of an economic collapse, then I recommend also buying some silver coins---either pre-1965 US quarters and half dollars, or 1 ounce .999 silver "rounds". As I described in "Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse", gold is essentially too compact a form of wealth for practical barter for necessities such as food and fuel.





Greg C. sent this bit of mainstream media spin doctoring: AP source: White House projects lower deficit. Greg's comment: "Another case of “The deficit is growing slower than we originally thought.” They fail to point out its still growing exponentially. They “saved”$250 billion while we will be at $2 trillion in the hole by year’s end. I love their math and outlook on life!"

Thanks to Damon for this: Marc Faber "in China there is an investment bubble ...the total collapse is ahead of us and probably a world scale war..."

Reader Jim P. flagged this: Obama to raise 10-year deficit to $9 trillion. The MOAB just won't quit growing!

From A.C.: Stiglitz: Dollar Reserve System Falling Apart

Items from The Economatrix:

Iceland: What Ugly Secrets Await Being Revealed in the Meltdown

The Consumer Has Dug in His Heels

John GaltFla: A Flock of Black Swans

Frustrations Rising Over Mortgage Relief

More Shoppers Getting Cold Feet in Checkout Line



Sometimes the bias of mainstream media is blatantly obvious. Compare this video clip, with this news report from CNBC. Notice how, with some clever editing, they did not inform their viewers that the man carrying the "assault rifle" in this news story about the "racist overtones" of the anti-Health Care plan protestors was in fact a black man.

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News from Australia: No-Warrant Terrorism Raids Proposed

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Reader Ken M. mentioned: "Ready Made Resources has a free solar power products catalog in PDF format that is great for anyone interested in solar power. The catalog provides world wide solar charts for those outside the U.S. The catalog also has some products for wind and water power generation."



"The earth shall quake before them; the heavens shall tremble: the sun and the moon shall be dark, and the stars shall withdraw their shining:
And the LORD shall utter his voice before his army: for his camp is very great: for he is strong that executeth his word: for the day of the LORD is great and very terrible; and who can abide it?
Therefore also now, saith the LORD, turn ye even to me with all your heart, and with fasting, and with weeping, and with mourning:
And rend your heart, and not your garments, and turn unto the LORD your God: for he is gracious and merciful, slow to anger, and of great kindness, and repenteth him of the evil." - Joel 2:1-32 (KJV)


Saturday, August 22, 2009


Do you have any favorite quotations that relate to preparedness, survival, or individual liberty? Please send them via e-mail, and if they haven't been run in the blog before, I will likely post them as Quotes of the Day. Thanks!

Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



In the days following a societal collapse, there will be some people who will be on the move from where the problems exist to where they hope safety lies. There can be many reasons why people are on the move, and an equal number of reasons why someone else may wish to stop your progress. Getting on the move and out of a hostile area as early as possible in the wake of a collapse is a significant key to one’s survival, as well has having buddies to cover you during your travel.

The sooner you get on the road, the less your chances of encountering problems. A few people will recognize the early signs of collapse and get moving out of town long before traffic becomes a problem. Others will recognize the issue within twenty-four hours after the event takes place, and will be on the leading edge of the traffic during the exodus. The majority will not realize the seriousness until it is too late. These people will get caught-up in the traffic jam that will rival the exodus of Houston during Hurricane Rita, where I-45 and I-10 were packed full of cars stopped on the highway for 100 miles. Many people ran out of gas on the side of the road and found themselves without food or water since they had only moved a few miles in four hours.

You may be a well prepared family, but for one reason or another are caught on your heals when a collapse occurs. This leads you to stay put longer than you would have liked, but you have no better tactical choices but to lay low at home or work for a few days before bugging out. You do not want to get caught in a highway traffic jam following a collapse. If you get stuck, you will have to leave most of what you packed into your vehicle(s) and move out on foot amongst the thousands of ill-prepared people on the roads doing things they would never have considered during normal times.

Those who are forced to wait out the initial exodus and are moving out of urban areas several days or weeks after the collapse will have a higher probability of coming in contact with an expedient ambush roadblock, both in the city and on rural roads outside of small towns. An expedient ambush roadblock is one set-up in haste with readily available materials and personnel. There will be plenty of desperate people who were caught unprepared for such an event; their lack of morals and innate nature to survive will drive them to take from others, with deadly force if necessary. It is your job to protect your family and yourself from these threats, especially when on the move.

While traveling in a vehicle on the roads, you may encounter various types of roadblocks or ambush points. Some may be fairly elaborate, while others may be quite simple. All are equally deadly. The primary tactic you will need to thread your way safely through one of these expedient ambush roadblocks is what I call R.O.C.S.: Recognition, Observation, Covering Fire, and Speed.

Recognition:

Recognizing that something you see ahead is a potential ambush site is the first key to success. An ambush site can appear as a traffic accident (as illustrated in Patriots), a fallen tree near or on the road, abandoned/broken down vehicles, anything blocking all or part of the road, detours, refugees, high ground on one or both sides of the road, bridges, and anything that looks like it does not belong on, or near, a road. These are the types of expedient ambush sites that someone may quickly create in the days following a societal collapse. It is up to whomever is leading, to recognize that a potential exists and to move into the observation phase.

Observation:

Once you recognize a likely ambush point (LAP), you have two choices: divert your course and completely avoid the circumstance, or observe and evaluate the site. You can either stop well short of the potential ambush point and observe through a scope or binoculars, or have a passenger continue to observe while on the move. Observation is a form of Intel. Look for signs of movement, or things that seem out of place. Reverse what you see and put yourself in the place of the ambusher. Where would you hide? How would you set it up? How many people would you need to pull off an ambush? What weapons would you use? What tactics would you employ? What is your end game?

At this point, you need to determine if what you see is worth the risk of approach or if you need to turn around and find a different route (if possible). Anyone traveling with you should also evaluate the situation and help with risk assessment. Once a decision is made to approach and pass the observed site, cover[ing fire] is needed.

Covering Fire:

This is a two or more person/vehicle job. This means that if it is just you, your wife and the kids, that you need to move out of town in two vehicles. Hopefully you have friends traveling with you to a new location who also have a vehicle and weapons. For [overwatching] cover[ing fire] during the operation, the lead vehicle stops at a distance from the LAP that is within the range of the weapon being employed. For most weapon platforms a good distance is 100-300 yards. This ensures accurate shots and plenty of ballistic energy. The lead vehicle should place their vehicle at a 45-degree angle to the direction of travel and the weapon system should then be employed across the hood so that the engine block provides a [limited] ballistic shield for those person(s) providing cover[ing fire].

The trailing vehicles should move past the lead vehicle with Speed. Once beyond the LAP, those vehicles stop and provide cover for the other vehicle(s) yet to pass through the site. Again, the vehicles that have already passed the LAP should stop within range of the weapon(s) being employed and turn their vehicles 45-degrees to the road and take personal cover behind the engine, covering the passage of the trailing vehicles.

[JWR Adds: The concept of covering fire is actaully better termed suppressive fire. The term "cover", properly, only applies to barriers that provide ballistic protection to those behind them. So "covering fire" does not provide cover, nor concealment, only supression!]

Speed:

Passing through the LAP with adequate speed, and setting up a covering position on the far side for the trailing vehicles as fast as possible is key to minimizing exposure for all concerned. You do not want to drive so fast that you could lose control of your vehicle if you suddenly had to swerve or take significant evasive action.

Having short-range communications for these types of situations is also a smart idea. This can be done with CB radios, or inexpensive GMRS/eXRS two-way radios. Radios will be especially helpful during nighttime operations of this type. When the lead vehicle can communicate to trailing vehicle(s) that there is a LAP ahead, this can start a desired chain reaction that can significantly increase the odds of surviving one of these situations. Communications can also be an aid when the lead vehicle passes an unseen ambush point and can radio a warning to following vehicles, which can immediately render covering fire and/or take evasive actions.

The following is a fictitious scenario using all of the aforementioned, with three families in three vehicles approaching a potential ambush site seen from one mile away. The cars are traveling 200 yards apart. (After the SHTF, when traveling by foot or vehicle, travel should always be conducted in tactical columns, where a specified distance is maintained between people or vehicles. Staying too close together and/or tailgating are unacceptable risks after SHTF, when traveling.)

Lead vehicle (vehicle 1): “LAP ahead, one mile”

Trailing vehicles stop in place, while vehicle 1 moves forward another 1/2-mile and evaluates the LAP. The lead vehicle stops and uses 10x50 binoculars to scan the area. No movement is noticed, but it looks like a large tree was dropped across one lane of the highway. The base is obviously recently cut, and there are no other dead trees nearby. The leaves still have a greenish tint and have not yet browned, but are wilted.

Lead vehicle radios the trailing vehicles: “No movement seen, there is a way past the LAP on the opposite shoulder and grass. Watch the tree line on the right side of the road. Lots of dense cover there. We will move ahead to 200 yards and set-up.”

The lead vehicle approaches slowly to within 200 yards while the trailing vehicles move to within ½ mile away. The lead vehicle stops in the road and turns to 45-degrees to the direction of travel and both occupants exit the drivers side and set up across the hood with their AR-10 rifles with ACOG scopes.

Lead vehicle radios the trailing vehicles: “Go!”

The first trailing vehicle (vehicle 2) gets up to speed and approaches the LAP while the lead vehicle continues to scan the LAP through their scopes, ready to fire upon any threat. The vehicle passes the LAP with no problems and goes 200 yards beyond and sets up an overwatch position on the other side, careful to orient themselves so as not to fire upon the vehicles on the other side. They are covering with scoped AR-10s scanning the LAP.

Vehicle 2 radios: “We are through and set up. Go!”

While vehicles 1 and 2 maintain covering positions, the last vehicle (vehicle 3) gets up to speed and starts to pass the LAP. As they do so, gunfire erupts from the tree line (in this instance, the ambushers were caught unaware by the first vehicle and were alert when the next one came through.) Vehicles 1 and 2 open fire on the tree line, while the passenger in vehicle 3 opens fire while passing the ambush. Once beyond the ambush point, vehicle 3 sets up 220 yards on the other side of the ambush to the rear and right of vehicle 2, and provides covering fire along with vehicle 2.

Vehicle 3 radios: “We’re set. Covering. No fire from the trees. Go!”

Vehicle 1 remounts and charges through the ambush point with no gunfire coming from the tree line. They drive beyond the other two vehicles and all personnel remount their vehicles and resume their travels.

At this point, it would be wise to find a secure place to stop and evaluate your persons and vehicles. You don’t need to stop all jumbled together, especially if there is more than one person per vehicle and everyone has a radio. Each vehicle stops a couple hundred yards apart and while one person provides cover, the other goes over the vehicle and passengers, looking for trouble.

You would want to check the tires, engine soft points (hoses, belts, etc.) and look for leaks (anti-freeze, fuel, oil, hydraulic fluid, etc.) Be sure to check each other carefully as adrenaline will be high and a person who has been shot or injured may not feel a wound at this point. Address any issues as quickly as possible and continue moving.

Other Considerations

Stopping to evaluate and/or cover a position may not be advisable in some circumstances. You do the best you can at evaluating while on the move, radioing your findings to your travel companions, and then pushing through. This is where speed comes in to play. The faster you can get through the LAP the better your chances of survival. Your passenger (if you have one) helps with navigation, assessing threats, and provides cover during the encounter.

Choosing weapons is always a difficult decision, especially if you are going to be defending your life with them. For situations such as the one presented above, the longer the effective range of the weapon, the further away you can stay from the LAP, increasing your chances of survival. You must also consider that just because you can easily shoot a M1A or even a .50 Barrett, your wife or teenager may not be able to adequately handle such a weapon in a life-or-death cover fire situation. [So a .223, 5.45x39, or 7.62x39mm rifle may be more apropos.]

Having a scope on your weapon will also increase your shot accuracy and your ability to observe the area for movement while your weapon system is employed. We all want to be accurate with open sights at long ranges, but if you are trying to hit the small exposed body part of a person behind cover at 250 meters, it is easier to find the body part to shoot at with a scope. People do not always present themselves as a nice squared-up silhouette like at a shooting range. When your target has taken cover, you may only get to see the top of a head, or part of an arm or leg. Putting a bullet in an extremity might not kill them, but it may take them out of the fight.

For night operations, having some form of night vision technology could become critical. These systems allow you to see through the darkness and into the darkest of shadows. Generation I systems are only adequate to about 50 meters and cost under $200. Generation I+ systems have a little more clarity and cost $300-500. Generation II and II+ systems can now be had for less than $1,000 new, and can be found cheaper from time to time in the used marketplace. These go up to $3,500 depending on features and manufacturer, and have a range from 100 to 200 meters with quite clear optics for the price. Generation III night vision has come down quite a bit and can be had for $3,500-$5,500. Personally, I cannot see enough difference between quality (with the exception of extended recognition range) of the Gen II and Gen III night vision to compel me to spend the extra $2,500+. There is also "Generation IV" night vision, which I know very little about. Prices seem to be in the $4,500-5,500 range. A Gen II, III, or IV night vision monocular could be a life saver, especially if you can get one that comes with an optional weapons mount.



James,
First off, we continue to pray for your family. Whatever the Lord’s plan is, he will show you grace and mercy. Blessed be the name of the Lord.

Secondly, one of my cattle buyers, corroborated by one of my truckers, has informed me of some signs-of-the-times, unconfirmed via regular news outlets so far, cattle rustling in Pennsylvania is on the rise, including something not usually seen, carcass remnants. Several barns/pastures have cattle missing, one load of which was recovered at a sale barn, and at least a half dozen reports from different farmers finding carcasses, with primals cut out, in remote portions of hill pastures. I also found this news article and this ABC News video clip.

We all saw the report from Florida about horse butchering, but this is slightly different, IMO. We run cattle on quite a few different operations and are concerned at this potential loss of wealth. We have invested heavily in livestock to preserve wealth, reproduce wealth, insure a food supply and, well it’s also our business! We are holding our first “cattle works” in a few weeks and will be branding all our horses and cattle. It may not solve/reduce all the problems, but we believe it will help.

Thanks for your efforts, you are performing a valuable service. - Trent H., in a Rural Corner of Pennsylvania



Peter Schiff: Hyperinflation Risk High, Stocks Will Crater (Thanks to "Straycat" for the link.)

A interesting piece over at iTulip: Does USA 2009 = Argentina 2001? Part I: Falling economy reaches terminal velocity - Eric Janszen

Karen H. notes: Nickel May Gain as Stockpiles Fail to Deter Funds: Chart of Day "Nickel, which surged 17 percent the past month, may advance further as “price momentum” and inflation expectations lure fund managers even as stockpiles of the metal approach a 14-year high, according to Commerzbank AG." Have you been stocpiling nickels?

FG mentioned this survey: L.A. ranks near bottom among big cities for finding a job, website says

Items from The Economatrix:

The Next Crisis in the Making

FDIC Sees Ag Banks as Next Crisis

Stock Market Still a Chump's Game

Bernanke Says US Economy on Cusp of Recovery. (Perhaps he also has some Elvis or Evita Peron sightings to report.)

Cash for Clunkers to End on Monday


Brown Shoots: US Mortgage Delinquencies Hit Record High



Greg C. sent this news article from Florida: Rush is on for concealed-guns permits

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From KAF: A rush for black gold in the Gulf. KAF notes: "Every country except the USA will be drilling in the Gulf of Mexico.

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North Korea Threatens Nuclear Strike

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US City of Paterson, New Jersey, Planning Curfew to Combat Rising Crime



"Work expands so as to fill the time available for its completion." - Parkinson's Law, coined by C. Northcote Parkinson, circa 1957


Friday, August 21, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Human Perception - from an artist’s point of view.

Have you ever sat down and watched a movie? Sure you have. But did you ever stop to realize that everything you were watching was a lie? Most likely not, even though you do understand that intellectually.

Most movies cash in on the concept of “suspension of disbelief” which means “you know that what you are watching is not real or true, but you are willing to pretend, accept that it is real or true, for sake of entertainment.” It is an implied contract between you, and the makers of that movie. The producers of that movie have an obligation to you - and that obligation is to make it “look” so real, make is so convincing - that you are able to believe it when you see it.

A “Special Effect” that you noticed and commented on, saying “Wow that was a great effect, it really looked real” is actually a badly executed effect. If you recognized it as an effect, it was not a successful effect – because you recognized it – it drew attention to itself.

A real special effects artist covers his tracks so well, that you believe that what you saw was real, and do not question it or recognize it as an effect – you accept it at face value – and that is what camouflage is really all about – tricking your opponent into accepting what he sees at face value, and not even thinking to question it.

For the past 28 years, I have been employed as a professional sculptor/artist in the entertainment industry. What that means is that for those years, I have been paid to lie to you. That statement is not meant to give offense. It is meant to draw your attention to a point that I think could save your life.

Camouflage is, quite simply the skill of lying. Think about it. You goal, your desire is to create an illusion, a deception, a trick of the eye with such skill that your enemy does not see you, or realize that either “you” or “it” is actually there at all. Your enemy thinks it is just a rock, a bush, and clump of dirt, - he has no idea that there is something there at all. He is at ease, relaxed; he feels safe and does not see any booty to snap up for himself, or any enemy to threaten him, because he sees nothing but the environment around him.

That is your goal – right? So, to achieve that goal, you need to become a great liar!

You have all seen paintings, photographs, “art” of many kinds. But the things you see are not what your mind tells you they are. Thus, your mind plays tricks on you, it “interprets” or “translates” the images it receives by way of your eye, into concepts; and then you react or respond to those perceived concepts.

But the concepts your mind’s eye creates by way of its interpretation of visual stimuli, may not be accurate with respect to the objective environment, as any one of a million playfully entertaining optical illusions can clearly demonstrate. Your mind can be easily tricked into believing something that is not real or true.

In general, there are very few straight lines or repeated patterns in nature. Exceptions to the rule do exist, in such things as sedimentary strata that is uninterrupted by geological events beyond its original “manufacture”, or the magnificent rhythm of sea shells, and a few other things; but as a rule, regularity and repetition, rhythm and pattern, is rather hard to find out in the bush.

However, in contrast to the “randomness of nature” the human mind, tends to seek out regularity and pattern, rhythm and harmony. (Bear in mind that the eye does not “see” anything. It is merely an organic structure designed to collect and receive light from the outside world, and transfer the image to the mind for interpretation. It is the human brain that actually “sees” what is going on out there, by way of interpreting the information given to it by the eye.)

Our modern definition of beauty to a very large degree stems from this perception of “visual harmony” and we seek out balance and summitry as a means to define beauty in others. In other words, the left and right eye are “balanced” with respect to each other. The nose is centered on the face, and if a sentient line or center line were drawn through the middle of it, both half’s of the nose would be in balance. In the male, if this balance and cemetery is hard and “chiseled” he is considered handsome or good looking. In the female, if this harmony of features or balance is soft and delicate, she is considered beautiful.

There are occasions when a “crooked smile” can be considered quite attractive – but the very reason it is considered attractive, is because we recognize that it is “crocked” as compared and contrasted to our traditional interpretation of beauty, which seeks out that straight, balanced harmony radiating from a center line, and it becomes that consciously recognized exception to the rule that we find attractive.

Because we tend to seek out rhythm and balance, we automatically create a repetition or pattern in our physical actions. But then this very pattern, this rhythm is precisely what our eye seeks out and recognizes.

So, to truly disappear into your environment…

Rule # 1 = never repeat your pattern or your placement of color or item. Become deliberately random. Consciously pay attention to your natural tendency to become rhythmic and repetitious, and willfully violate that natural tendency by placing things at deliberately irregular intervals.

Test yourself on this. Take a sea sponge and dip it in paint, and then casually dabble that paint loaded sponge on a wall or plywood board. Then step back and look at your work. Odds are, you will see a rhythm, an equally spaced, even and regular pattern of sponge pats on the wall. In fact, you could almost put a tape measure to each sponge splotch, and they would all be within a ¼ of one another.

This is exactly what you want to take note of – and avoid when seeking to camouflage yourself or your stash! If you see a pattern, so will your enemy. Remember – rhythm and regularity = presence of man – weather your opponent consciously recognizes this fact, or not, he will “perceive it” and gravitate towards this regularity.

“Composition” is something you will hear artists speak about frequently. This refers to the placement of colors and images within the frame of the work. (And the negative space – the “empty” space around objects, between objects, within objects – is also an element of the art work – and something you need to pay attention to).

This concept of composition is a format artists use to guide the viewers eye along a specific path to enhance interest and visual pleasure. (the eye can be directed along a specific and predetermined path – guided by the skillful artist to “look here, not there” - hint, hint).

But again, with physical objects, (in the case of a painting, for example, a pile of rocks) even numbers of elements represent regularity and pattern, and regularity and pattern means man, not nature.

Rule #2 = odd numbers work better than even numbers. Place colors or elements in groups of 3, 5, 7, et cetera.

Starbucks, like every retail food outlet, offers three sizes of drink cup. They don’t call it small, medium and large, they rename it so it sounds fancy and costs more - Tall, Vente, and Grande, but it is still small, medium and large drink cup size no matter how you slice things up.

But if you stop to think about it, a small one, a large one, and one that is exactly in the middle of those two - - is regular, predictable, rhythmic and repetitious. It is contrived. It is according to the rules of pattern and harmony.

What that means is – to camouflage yourself and your stash, you need to be aware of this, and violate that thinking. In composition, (placement of items and colors within your framework) arrangements that are odd numbered work better. Arrangements like large, large, small - or small, small, medium. Remember – odd numbers (3,5,7), and odd arrangements (L,L,s).

Rule #3 = selection of object sizes and placement relationships with one another, should be as random and irregular as the arrangement of item groups within your overall framework.

You have all seen Leonardo De Vinci’s masterpiece “The Last Supper” But I invite you to revisit that work with a new understanding. Notice, as you view it, that each of the Apostles are in groups of three, (odd number) and that each group is slightly separated from the other groups. Notice also that the eyes of all Apostles (save Judas) are facing towards Christ. Notice also that the building in which they sit, is rendered in what is called a single point perspective, with a single vanishing point – all things converge on that vanishing point, and Christ is at the center of it. In other words, everything in that picture, from foreground to background to the stitching on the tablecloth - commands, forces, directs our eye to our Lord, Jesus Christ. You have no choice but to look upon Him. Da Vinci skillfully directed you to look where he wanted you to look, and you naturally obey.

Bearing this in mind, you can also misdirect your adversary by employing branches, sticks, or a carefully placed “line” of items, all pointing where you want him to look. See what you want him to see. You can actually direct his path, even make him literally walk right where you want him to walk, by placing well crafted “arrows” that point along your chosen path (providing you do do not make it obvious - - another rule of art is that often - less is more, so don’t forget the first three rules).

Rule #4 = item arrangements can direct the eye along a predetermined path. Knowing this, gives you the power to control that path and direct your adversaries attention to a point you chose.

As a sculptor, on occasion I will accidentally chip off a chunk of material that results in what we call “the happy accident.” It usually happens because I am working quickly. While this break in material was not designed, expected or intended, nevertheless it often yields fantastic results, and is incorporated into the work, if at all possible.

However, being human, we tend to seek order and harmony – we desire to have control – and we also tend to work that way. We tend to work meticulously and deliberately, with care and consideration towards our goal. But again, this is not how nature works. Haphazard and disorganized is natural – and the best way to achieve this “look” is not to be too careful, too controlled or to focused on what you are doing.

Rule #5 = Deliberately work with haste and speed (until you master the first 3 rules) to allow for the haphazard ‘happy accident’ that more accurately reflects a natural environment. Force yourself to do it fast until you get good at it, then you will do it fast because you are good at it.

Those professionals who make their craft look easy are those who have done it so many times, that they don’t have to stop and think about it anymore.

This deliberate under pressure, with speed technique is the first step in teaching a student to be a sculptor – because his natural tendency is to start detailing from one end to the other, rather than establish the overall “anatomy” first. Most people see only the surface, the final detail and finish, and neglect to recognize the more important underlying structure – bones, muscle, balance, etc.

The foundation upon which your details are built - is more important than the details themselves. You “see” the frosting on the cake – the surface detail - sure, but don’t forget the frosting is on the cake.

Another trick of the trade is a bit more tactical, and goes hand in hand with rule #4. Diversion and distraction.

In my profession, we often employ a technique called “the purple flower.” Art directors, having already designed and blueprinted or sketched the look of the movie on paper are - technically speaking, no longer needed on the payroll. They design it, send it to me and I build it, according to design. Simple.

However, would you want to walk away from a $5,000 per week paycheck? So, what would you need to do in order to justify your continued employment? Make changes!

Well, we know they are going to make changes. So – we give them something to change. We deliberately introduce into the project, something wrong, something noticeably out of whack. Naturally, he will see this, and demand we “fix this immediately,” to which we promptly reply “yes sir!”

He has corrected our mistake, justified himself on the payroll, and is happy, and yet, he has not messed up all our work, because we directed and controlled his “change” by giving him something to change.

(Please don’t let the cat out of the bag by telling others about this – especially if you are under a chain of command. The C.O. cannot find out what you are doing or the game is up.)

In other words, your adversary is looking for something – anything that will tip him off as to your presence. Give him what he wants. But under your control, not his.

Rule #6 = Now that you know some of the rules, (and you do need to master them first. Foundation, remember?) learn when to throw the rules out and go right back to doing what you should not do.

Remember, the odds are, your adversary does not know the rules to art, or how to control human behavior through visual stimuli – so take advantage of his ignorance - - today’s marketing and advertising agencies do this to you every day of your life.

Camouflage patterns on military uniforms have, for decades been defensive in nature. Their goal was (obviously) to break up the human form or silhouette, using colors found in nature and irregular patters. Their intent was to make the wearer “fade away” – “disappear into the surrounding foliage” or simply put - “hide.”

Today’s digital camouflage pattern is quite the opposite. It is a deliberately ‘in your face’ offensive pattern (psychologically speaking). If you look closely, it is composed of colored squares – which as we all know are shapes that are exactly equal on all four sides – i.e. regular, mathematical, and thus, easily discernable in a non-mathematical natural setting (or so one would think).

However, this new pattern is designed around the manner in which human perception functions and operates. The designers understand how the human eye perceives color, shape and line, and how the human mind translates the visual stimuli brought to it through the eye to formulate perceptions and concepts. Thus, digital camouflage assaults your brain’s natural perceptive methodology – which makes it more effective than the traditionally defensive camo pattern. (The colors are more subtle too – prone to emulate the tones on a bright sunlit day).

What happens is that your mind blends, interprets, or translates those “tiny little squares” into fuzzy random, totally innocuous natural shapes. There is no “edge” to separate “this” shape from “that” shape and thus identify it as a printed pattern – so it all blends together into something else. Next time you see the digital pattern, try squinting your eyes as you look at it, and you will see how it effects you. You fill in the blanks. You “participate” (albeit, without your conscious knowledge) in the camouflage of the digital patterns now worn by our military.

Thus, as exemplified by Edgar Allen Poe, and Sherlock Holmes – on occasion, the best possible disguise is right in front of your eyes. Naked. Exposed. Right there – which is the last place anyone would think to look. A cop, searching for an escaped convict, probably would not think to search the police station’s basement.

Remember, your opponent is expecting you to try and hide it.

Rule #7 = Sometimes, right out in the open, in plain sight is the best possible place to “hide” it, simply because they are expecting you to hide it – looking for where you hid it, and not expecting, or looking for the obvious. (This tactic can also serve well as “bait for the trap”).

There are a number of additional ‘rules of art’ but the best teacher is observation and practice. Wonder around in nature and really stop and “look” at it.

Most beginners, if I instructed them to sculpt a rock, would create something that more closely resembles a potato than a rock. This is not because they are incompetent (per se) – so much as because they “think” they know what a rock looks like, and as a result, have never actually stopped and looked at a rock. They assume they know what they know they don’t know – to their determent.

So, go out and really look at your environment – study it. Take notes as to what you see – and why it is the way it is.

Take a few minutes to read a book or two on art and learn what defines it, what categorizes “good” from “bad” art. It will help, not to mention expanding your horizons and affording you a new found “level of cultural enlightenment and appreciation.”

Note: Considering what I just said, I have to add that the Accredited Fine Arts Academia today - is a socialist/elitist, self glorifying pompous joke. I know many people with degrees in art – but I have never met one on the job site. “Those who can – do. Those who cannot - go back to school and teach.”

Be that as it may – learning something about art is not going to hurt you. In fact, it may grant you a little more insight as to how “you” function in your environment.

In the meantime, don’t necessarily buy a bunch of expensive ghillie suits and nets and stuff at Cabela’s (however ‘cool’ they might be). More often than not, your best bet is to use whatever is there, within the environment you are trying to hide in. You want to blend into “it” – so use “it.”

Procedure:

So, say that you want to hide your truck or your pile of MREs in such a way that you can retrieve them quickly and easily, whatever. How do you go about it?

For first time ‘artists,’ hesitation, fear of a mistake, self consciousness and insecurity must be overcome. And anyone trying something new, for the very first time, is, naturally, going to be self conscious and hesitant--afraid of messing it up.

However, if you are afraid of making a mistake – you will. And, there is nothing that cannot be changed, amended, altered or adjusted to correct a ‘mistake.’ There is no such thing as a mistake (unless you are on a deadline and getting paid). Further, very often, those perceived mistakes actually further your goals –so allow for them.

However, to break through that barrier of self hesitation and insecurity – force yourself to work fast. Reflect on your goals (camouflage) - – then reflect on the general rules of art - - then stop thinking and attack what you are doing with boldness and power, confidence and positive self-assurance. Throw yourself at it whole heartedly. Loosen up – relax. “Play” at it.

Then, when some progress has been made, pause and take a step back. Review. Ask yourself:

  • “Does it conform with, or violate the rules of art and human perception?”
  • “Which do I want it to do – conform, violate, misdirect, or guide?”
  • “What is my next step?”

The answers to these questions will give you information, and it is the information you receive from your work that will dictate your next action. (It sounds a bit “Zen” but the only way I can describe this is to “let the work speak to you – and learn how to listen to it.”)

Then – attack it again, boldly, powerfully and quickly.

But, know when to stop fussing with it and put the tool down. Know when to say ‘when', and walk away – because it is all too easy to “overwork” something, and destroy the point to your efforts.

Very often, less work yields a more effective result – as we have pointed out, less “attention to detail” commands and requires the viewer to “participate” in the work – to fill in the blanks himself – and that is what will trick him into thinking it is simply a bush or a pile of rocks – so learn how to use your opponents own mind against him!

Proviso: If you are doing this in the safety and comfort of your back yard - to practice and learn the some of the skills – you may find you are having some fun. Do not let your spouse figure this out, or they will take it away from you and replace it with a “honey do” list. ‘God’s speed’ to one and all. - T.W.P.

JWR Adds: Keep in mind the classic military observation cues when you are designing camouflage:

Shape (avoid straight lines)
Shine (use flat tones)
Shadow
Sound
Scent
Movement (nothing draws the human eye more quickly--after all, we are predators with binocular vision.)
Color

Take a look at this series of photos of Swiss Army bunkers, and then this montage, and answer this: what did they do right, and what did they do wrong? Do you see the straight lines?

Now take a look at this series of photos. (If you can't mimic nature, then mimic man! Note that the "windows" are all just painted on the reinforced concrete.) Ach! Those same clever SwitzerDudes that invented the Swiss Army Knife. You have to admire them. OBTW, a stack of cordwood can hide a lot of things, including a bunker entrance.

My favorite hidden bunker door is in the second photo on this page. (It takes a while to spot the door hinges.)

For additional reading, I recommend these two books: The War Magician and False Colors: Art, Design and Modern Camouflage.



Mr. Rawles,
I am just now (pretty late in the game, I know) becoming aware of the impending collapse and have begun reading your blog regularly (it is the first thing I read in the mornings now). I realize now that I must prepare as much as I can and have a question about my current location. I live on an isolated (no bridges, ferry and airplane transport only) Island in the Chesapeake Bay. It is somewhat densely populated for its size, but everyone knows each other and most residents hunt and fish and have their own boats. Many residents are quite self sufficient and the crime rate is virtually non- existent. I realize we are downwind of several nuclear targets (DC is only about 70 miles away as the crow flies) but this area (the Delmarva Peninsula) and this island in particular are sparsely populated. I recently bought a house here and cannot afford to move anywhere anytime soon, and if I could, I could only get to rural western Virginia, West Virginia, or Eastern Kentucky at the furthest. The only benefit of my current locale is that in the event of a collapse, it would be isolated and looters would be unable to get here. On the other hand, there would be 500+ residents and little or no fuel to power fishing vessels after current supplies run out. The climate is mild and we could get by with little or no heat in the winter. Much of the surrounding land is swampland and not conducive to agriculture. There are few firearms on the Island other than a few shotguns for duck hunting. I currently own a Glock 21 (.45 ACP) for personal protection and am looking into rifles. I would like an M1A but probably could not afford one. How could I make my current situation more suited to riding out a crisis? Any response will be greatly appreciated. Very Respectfully, - R.T.

JWR Replies: A few things come immediately to mind:

  • You should stock up on fuel for your own use, and for barter.) Coleman white gas has a 6+ year shelf life, and can be used in engines as well as lanterns and stoves.
  • Stock up on two-cycle fuel-mixing oil. (For chainsaws and older outboard engines.)
  • Have a large propane tank installed, and make sure that it is has a wet leg. (So that it can be used to fill smaller containers.)
  • If you don't have one already, get a tri-fuel generator, and a photovoltaic power system if you can afford it.
  • You need a long gun for defense. Even if it is just a well-used "beater" Mauser, Mosin-Nagant, or Enfield bolt-action, that is better than nothing. And in essence, what you currently have is almost nothing.(Don't bring just a pistol to a rifle fight!)
  • Stock up on non-hybrid gardening seeds. (Several of my advertisers sell them.) Also, build up your topsoil!

Your situation is unusual, but not unique. Make the best of the local resources, and organize with your neighbors to provide a common defense.

One could safely predict that in the event of a "slow slide" depression, you may see a situation develop similar to that of present-day Roatan Island (off the coast of Honduras), where burglars and even home invasion robbers commute to the island from the mainland via ferryboat.





U.S. Army mulls adopting a new camouflage pattern for uniforms. (Thanks to Ron G. for the link.) I think that this would be a good switch, since the current ACU pattern is a horrible compromise with insufficient contrast It look like a solid color, from past 60 yards. It reminds me of the old joke about the camel being "a horse, designed by committee."

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Matt in Tennessee reminded me about a Steve's Pages, a very useful web site with almost all the US and Canadian military manuals and many other usefual references on many subjects.

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Izzy mentioned an article in the New York Times about a 'missing' Russian cargo ship, the Arctic Sea. Izzy's comments: "This sounds like a prequel to the novel One Second After [by William R. Forstchen]. The ship was originally presumed hijacked, but has now been 'recovered'. Of interest is the comment made near the end of the article by Yulia Latynina, a leading Russian opposition journalist and commentator: "The Arctic Sea was carrying something, not timber and not from Finland, that necessitated some major work on the ship... ...During two weeks of repair works in the Russian port of Kaliningrad just before the voyage, the ship's bulkhead was dismantled so something very large could be loaded, To put it plainly: the Arctic Sea was carrying some sort of anti-aircraft or nuclear contraption intended for a nice, peaceful country like Syria, and they were caught with it."



"Remember, God provides the best camouflage several hours out of every 24." - General David M. Shoup


Thursday, August 20, 2009


Dear SurvivalBlog Readers:
The immediate impression of most shooters, upon hearing "Kalashnikov", will involve the words cheap and reliable. Non-shooters will often maintain a huge negative connotation to the AK-47 and its variants, though they may not recognize the maker's name. I will not delve into the rifle's history today, but instead intend to highlight a weapons platform and illustrate the finer points in favor and against its use.

The AK-47 is a legendary weapon, known for its ability to fire under incredibly challenging circumstances. While some rifles may require regular and frequent care to keep them running properly, it is a commonly-held notion that the AK platform requires only ammunition and a clear chamber to function reliably. Of course, the rifle will perform better and will be far more durable if properly cared for, but if one should find himself engaged in a protracted struggle and without the room, tools, or time to safely maintain the weapon, the owner of an AK variant is going to find himself very satisfied with its performance even if several days, weeks, or months pass without cleaning or lubricant application. This is the core of my survival philosophy: “My weapon must fire every time, without fail, without an excess of labor on my part.” While I will regularly strip, clean, and lubricate my rifle, it should not be picky or prone to jam should I fail to do so for a longer period of time. The Kalashnikov family of weapons has absolutely proven itself in this arena for several decades.

Where else can one find a massive stock of .30-caliber rifles in a military configuration for under $600 each? Certainly not in an AR variant platform. While I heartily endorse the rough and ready nature of the ROMAK WASR-10, the only alternative for a shooter who wants a full-power cartridge in a semi-automatic, magazine-fed rifle is the Saiga line, in which the discriminating shooter can find .223, .308 Win, and 7.62x39 rifles which fit within the budget restriction. However, I always recommend a WASR on the grounds of parts commonality. The Saiga line of rifles uses a different magazine well, requiring modification to use military surplus and commercial 30-round magazines - and their proprietary magazines are expensive.

My number one reason for recommending a WASR over a Saiga is the availability of replacement parts and aftermarket accessories. The AK parts market is a leviathan in our country, with numerous small shops dedicated to crafting excellent quality parts for Kalashnikov rifles. The rifle is ubiquitous enough that most gunsmiths will have an easy time modifying just about any part of the rifle or adding any part you might come across. As a last aside, I've never attended a gun show at which AKs, ammunition, and parts were not available.

If you anticipate that a TEOTWAWKI scenario would shut down some of this availability, you may rest assured. Plans for the AK are available online (print and laminate a set today) and any talented machinist should be able to design, build, and test replacement AK parts with minimal difficulty or investment. If your chosen machinist is outfitted with alternative power arrangements, he or she should have no problems replacing worn parts - or even stamping entirely new receivers – during or after a crisis or SHTF scenario.

A shooter who doesn't have the $1,200-2,000 required for a high-quality full-bore rifle and glass may just find that an AK and good scope will fit better into a smaller budget, and offer comparable battlefield performance to a trained marksman. Above every other consideration, the quality of the shooter and his or her training is paramount. While a life-long, talented and devoted shooter may wring every last bit of potential from his or her rifle, the vast majority of us will be incapable of getting the best possible groups with our rifles until we’ve had significant range time and quality, professional training. In most cases, the AK offers an opportunity to acquire rifle, glass, ammunition, and ample training for the price you’d pay to get rifle and glass in some of the AR-15 or M1A designs.

As with all things in life, we take the good with the bad. The AK platform does, clearly, have some of the latter. If not, wouldn't everyone be an AK shooter?

First, an out-of-the-box AK will not have tack-driver accuracy. Nor would we want it, if it did. A "new" AK rifle, fed the most economical Wolf-brand commercial ammunition, will generally deliver a 2-4 MOA (MOA =[Roughly one] inch at one hundred yards) performance. For most AK owners, the knowledge that they can hit a circle averaging 3" in diameter at one hundred yards is plenty. These shooters always aim center-of-mass, and rely on the power of the 7.62 x 39 cartridge, which is fully capable of taking down the particular kind of big game for which it was designed.

There are a few AKs out there which possess better-than-typical accuracy, and which in the hands of a good shooter can produce 1-2 MOA groups. However, the vast majority of AK owners will never tune their rifles to the extent necessary to get this tight, because the steps necessary to wring this performance out of the rifle will also have a deleterious effect on the reliability of the firearm. Imagine that you have a two-ended spectrum; on the left, you have "looseness" or reliability, and on the right, you have "tightness" or accuracy. The AK-47 may be tuned to for either purpose, though the platform has a natural affinity for the reliability side of the spectrum.

The other negative with the rifle platform is the perception it engenders in civilians and in professional shooters. Non-shooter civilians will tend to recoil at the sight of an AK-47, as though it were possessed by the demons of the old Soviet Union. It has strong associations with our old nemesis, as well as revolutionaries, rebels, and terrorists. This is mostly because it has been a cheap, reliable rifle for people too poor or too politically isolated from the US to buy the M16 and other Stoner-derived weapons.

Professional shooters such as soldiers, mercenaries, and police will generally recognize the distinctive silhouette of the AK and the sound of its report, and have a tendency to associate both with a hostile force. This is largely because they and their allies carry the US-designed platforms, while the gang members, rebels, insurgents, and terrorists they've been fighting often carry the Kalashnikov.

Overcoming this prejudice pre-TEOTWAWKI is more a matter of common sense and restraint (not carrying openly except when at the range), while post-TEOTWAWKI few will encounter discrimination against someone willing to carry a rifle and help defend the community.

In conclusion, the Kalashnikov pattern deserves consideration from two groups of survivalists: those who can't afford to properly outfit an AR-15 or M1A or equivalent, and those who perceive rock-solid reliability as a paramount feature in a firearm. Even in the case of those who can afford a “better” rifle, the AK offers economy of savings which can be hard to ignore. It carries only the drawbacks of larger shot groups and perceptions among the general population, which can be overcome through practice and some wise decisions regarding the presentation of the weapon. - Z.M.



Dear Editor:
The suggestions of where to hide money prompted me to write about my experiences with storing cash. I keep on hand a few hundred dollars in small denominations in the event of an interruption of cash supply . I keep the cash in a small home fire/water proof lockbox from Sentry (just large enough on the interior dimension to fit an 8.5x 11 sheet of paper, and about 2 inches deep) along with other papers I want to protect from fire. The small size obviously offers no theft protection so to secure it, as well as up the fire protection, I put the lockbox into a fireproof gun safe. I always felt that this was the best way to store it until I ran into a little problem.

I infrequently open the lockbox just because the nature of what’s in it isn’t needed often. Once after a couple of months I opened it to find that the currency had molded (not mildewed) while sitting in the lockbox. It was my first experience at laundering money.

I take two steps to avoid this problem. First I place the money in an envelope and vacuum seal it. Secondly I place in the lockbox, about a half cup of silica gel desiccant, with indicating beads, in a coffee filter and check the condition every few months replacing as needed.

I’ve never had any corrosion problems with any of the firearms in the safe so I have to assume that the issue is with the lockbox. In my mind either the rubber seal allowed the currency to draw moisture from the humidity in the air, or the currency had enough moisture in it to cause problems when it first went into the lockbox.

I thought this was something that could save someone a little heartache. - Kentucky Possum

JWR Replies: If your document lock box is marked "fireproof" then it probably has a moisture-bearing insulation, typically Calcium Silicate. The moisture is part of what makes it fireproof.) This insulation BTW, will eventually induce rust on your guns if stored in the same vault, unless you take precautions. Place in the vault either a large (1/2- pound) bag or canister of Silica Gel (rotated by drying in an oven or in a food dehydrator at 160 degrees F overnight, four times a year), or use a Golden Rod dehumidifier, continuously.

The same types of linings are used in "fireproof" file cabinets at gun vaults. And coincidentally, because these linings eventually lose their moisture, their "fireproof" ratings expire after a few years.





Jim in Southern California flagged this: Heirloom Tomatoes, The Hand Me Down of Foods. Jim also sent this companion piece: Attack of the Heirloom Tomatoes.

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Beware of agent provocateurs: Attorney: FBI trained New Jersey blogger to incite others. (BTW, this in part explains why I ignored the urging of dozens of SurvivalBlog readers to post a link to Hal Turner's much-publicized but bogus "New Amero Notes have already been printed" story. Something about that just didn't smell right. In fact, if you do a search, you'll see that I've only mentioned Turner once in my blog, and even that was posted with a caveat attached.)

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Reader PNG sent an important link that I recommend you bookmark: Visualizing The U.S. Electric Grid. Note that this is an interactive map page. Be sure to click on all of the tabs and pull-down menu options!

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I just heard that Safecastle now has Red Feather brand canned butter (from New Zealand) back in stock.



"Fear not, but trust in Providence, Wherever thou may'st be." - Thomas Haynes Bayly


Wednesday, August 19, 2009


For anyone that might have found my warnings about feral dogs (such as in my "Pulling Through" screenplay) somehow alarmist, see this article: Sheriff: Georgia couple likely killed in dog attack. Too bad that you need a license to carry a firearm openly in Georgia. Parenthetically, we have the occasional grizzly bear that passes through, here at the ranch, but at least we are regularly armed, so we have a fighting chance. IMHO. the open carry ban in Georgia is a racist anachronism that should be abolished.

And speaking of open carry, our compadre Tamara mentioned this: Man carries assault rifle to Obama protest -- and it's legal. The mainstream media is in veritable fits of apoplexy about this, but I have news flash for them: This was in Arizona, where open carry is legal. Get over it!

Yesterday (Tuesday), I was interviewed by Fox News about open carry, in their "Happy Hour" market wrap-up show. Unlike my previous appearances on the show, I actually had time to get a word in edgewise. I offered them one of my old sayings, which in full is: Much like a muscle that atrophies with disuse, any right that goes unexercised for many years devolves into a privilege, and eventually can even be redefined as a crime.



Nearly every week, I get at least one frantic e-mail from a new SurvivalBlog reader, stating that they feel woefully under-prepared. The gist of these e-mails is: "I'm behind the power curve! How can I possibly get prepared in time?"

Fear not! Just by reading SurvivalBlog and taking some small, gradual steps at preparedness, you are miles ahead of your sheeple neighbors. And even with just modest preparedness measures, you have already substantially increased your chances of surviving most scenarios.

As I see it, here are your advantages:

Awareness
Most people are clueless. They have a naive Pollyanna outlook. But SurvivalBlog readers see the Big Picture, and plan accordingly. Because you are constantly aware of current events, you won't be one of the Generally Dumb Public (GDP) masses that invariably gets petrified in a crisis. Instead of just sitting there glued to a Crackberry, you will be taking concrete, meaningful action. While others spin in circles like beheaded poultry, you'll be busy helping to get things back to normal.

Skills and Knowledge
Unlike the folks that absorbed in the mindless American Idol television culture, you've spent your available time in taking hands-on training, and reading up on practical and tactical skills. You've also assembled a home library of useful references.

Networking
Most of you have teamed up with like-minded relatives, friends, church congregants, and neighbors. Meanwhile, your average suburbanite doesn't even know the names of all of the neighbors on his block, much less know their skill sets.

Tools
You've bought the best tools you could afford, for all foreseeable eventualities. Whether it is your Hi-Lift jack or your Glock, you've done your homework and acquired the most appropriate and durable gear. Meanwhile, your neighbors have frittered away their funds on jet-skis, Beanie Babies, Hummel figurines, and big screen plasma HDTVs.

Planning
You've developed both "stay put" and "Get Out of Dodge" plans, plus a few alternates. You keep your bugout bag and even your passport handy.

Logistics
Unlike the sheeple--who aren't prepared for even a three day power failure--you have your beans, bullets, and Band-Aids stocked away, in depth. While your sheeple neighbors are flocking to the grocery store, where they will most likely find only empty shelves, you'll be sitting pretty. And while they are pondering their two gallon gas can for their lawn mower--their only stored fuel--you have laid in enough to not only be ready for a crisis, but you cane even pick and choose your time to re-stock, when their are dips in fuel prices.

Locale
A minority of highly motivated SurvivalBlog readers have taken my advice and relocated to safer regions. I hope that more of you do the same!

Communications
You already have your commo and band scanning gear up and running. While most folks will be completely ignorant when the power grids and phone systems go down, you'll be coordinating with your Group, and keeping track of where the malo hombres are moving, and where they might be heading next.

Capacity for Charity
There is room in the hearts of most SurvivalBlog readers to dispense copious charity. We consider it our duty. And more than just the willingness to dispense charity, most of us just as importantly also have the capacity--namely, the requisite materiel. If you can't spare it, then you can't share it. As I often tell journalists in phone interviews: I don't look at my food storage as a three year supply for one family. Rather, it is a one year supply for three families.

The Bottom Line
To wax a bit metapohrical, SurvivalBlog readers are what the actuarial accountants would call "low rate qualifiers"--meaning that because we have minimized our risks and maximized our potential life spans we'd qualify for the lowest possible insurance rates. There are no absolute guarantees, but your chance of achieving room temperature at an early age is far, far below that of the average man. Pat yourself on the back, and then redouble your efforts to get squared way.



Dear Mr. Rawles,

I have a question that I have not found addressed on SurvivalBlog. I am a small-statured woman (5'5", 130 lbs.) living in the desert southwest. I have a retreat that I am currently stocking, and am beginning to think about livestock (aside from chickens and goats, which are a given). While most of my peers keep and ride horses, I'm considering burros instead. My reasoning is that they are already adapted to an arid environment, can forage more easily, are hardier than horses, and are less expensive. They can also be used for packing or pulling equipment. Finally, because of my size, riding one should not be an issue for me.

Your thoughts?

I also wanted to say thank you for your web site -- I've found it to be invaluable. My heart goes out to you and your wife at this time. - E.

JWR Replies: The Memsahib and I have had a couple of donkeys, over the years. We primarily kept them as guard animals for our sheep. They do a great job of that, and when properly trained are fairly docile packers, although --as with all other equines--no two personalities are alike. They are also very thrifty to feed, compared to horses. (A horse eats, well, "like a horse!")



James,
Thanks for your web site. I find it very informative. And prayers for your missus. I've seen recent articles regarding acquiring gold and silver coinage for TEOTWAWKI. My question is this: can gold or silver jewelry substitute adequately for coinage? My thinking is this. In the worst case scenario, there are two kinds of people who will have things to barter - the prepared and the lucky. In dealing with the prepared, a sterling silver ring will be just as valuable as an equal silver weight of pre-1965 dimes. But with the merely lucky? I'm not so sure. In their mind (and their potential inability to recognize/accept fundamental change in the economic world) the face value of the dimes might interfere with the concept of the true (silver) value of the coinage. Plus, by pulling a ring off your finger to barter for example, you might come across as someone in the same boat as the person you are bartering with, leading to more reasonable negotiation. That also might keep attention to you (and your family) to a minimum, as opposed to coming across as someone who might be short on one or two things but otherwise to be envied. Am I off base on any of this? Thanks, - John C.

JWR Replies: I predict that following TEOTWAWKI, it will just a take a couple of weeks for people to mentally "switch gears" and adjust to the new realities of a barter economy.

The main problem with silver jewelry is that hallmarks can be faked. A few choice date numismatic silver dollars have also been faked, but worn non-numismatic silver pre-1965 dimes, quarters, and half dollars have never been faked, to the best of my knowledge. Pre-'65 coins will be accepted in barter without hesitation, while jewelry would probably have to be assayed. And if it were reluctantly accepted in trade without an assay, it would only be at a deep discount. So buy coins, not jewelry!







Several readers sent me this piece about backyard poultry partisans: "Chicken Underground" Emerges in Indiana

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From Cheryl: Vegetable Gardens Help Morale Grow

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Some great stuff, as always, from Michael Yon: The Kopp-Etchells Effect: "How can you have a better heart?" said a grateful Judy Meikle, 57, of Winnetka, Ill., who is still recovering from the surgery. "I have the heart of a 21-year-old Army Ranger war hero beating in me." I've always been impressed by both the eloquence of Michael's writing and his skill as a photographer. (For example, his latest shots, of Saint. Elmo's Fire glittering on helicopter rotors in Afghanistan, are amazing.) If you too enjoy his blog, I'm sure that he'd appreciate your support.



"Our whole way of life today is dedicated to the removal of risk. Cradle to grave we are supported, insulated, and isolated from the risks of life- and if we fall, our government stands ready with Band-Aids of every size." - Shirley Temple Black


Tuesday, August 18, 2009


The big 25% off sale on sleeping bags at Wiggy's ends in less than two weeks. Take advantage of it! OBTW, with sunspot numbers at record lows, there may be some exceptionally cold winters coming. We must never forget the lessons of the winter of 1887-1888!

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Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Most of the survival information published today comes from thoughtful and hardy men who plan, prepare, and protect themselves and their families from disasters.  My admiration and appreciate for such men cannot be overemphasized. I doff my hard hat to all of you. There are, however, some elements of survival that are perhaps better served from a woman’s perspective. In particular, this article focuses on barter goods – those items that can be traded to other survivors for an improved quality of life or for basic necessity.

For purposes of clarity and ease of reference, this article is divided into age groups.  That’s because each age group has a specific set of needs and wants, aside from basic survival supplies. Let’s get to it! 

Infants and Toddlers
Baby Formula: Mixed with water, formula is an essential component of a youngster under two years of age when the mother is unavailable due to illness or injury or death, or the mom is not lactating. Containers of dehydrated or condensed formula may be bartered to those who need it.  It may also become necessary to barter for it. Although the condensed version can be heavy and bulky, it is often more desired for its flavor.  Additionally, it requires less water for mixing. Dehydrated formula is easier to transport and one package produces more product than wet formula, but it requires more water for dilution and its taste is less pleasing than condensed. Of the two basic forms of formula, however, this survivalist would opt for dehydrated formula as a useful and valuable barter item.   

Chew Toys: Chew toys aren’t just for dogs.  Very young children like chew toys, too. The toys help with teething and they keep a child content when parents are busy. Be sure to acquire those that have no extraneous parts, and any painted surfaces must be non-toxic and non-allergenic. To be safe, buy those that are made of new materials and have little or no decoration that could come off, including surface colorations. Go for the plain models, in other words. The child who wants a chew toy is not looking for anything fancy, just something to mouth.  Do not acquire a chew toy that could be swallowed or could block the airway. The toy must be too large to fit wholly within the child’s mouth. Any store specializing in infants and toddlers should have a wide array of acceptable chew toys, although they may prefer the term “teething ring” to “chew toy.”  Most people working to survive a disaster of any type are not going to plan for something as specific as a child’s chew toy. They will, however, soon learn that their young one will be much happier and therefore much less fussy if there is something fun and safe to chew on. The toys will make good barter for adults with young children, and chew toys take up little space and weigh next to nothing. If teething infants are not part of your survival group, these toys may be used as dogs’ chew toys or as older children’s playthings if not too infantile in decoration. Keeping the toys simple will make them more versatile.

Pull Toys.  Toddlers like to walk, and when they walk, they like to drag something along with them. A few inexpensive pull toys will provide hours of enjoyment for them.   If the toy makes a little noise, the fun is doubled. Beware those that have excessive parts – they are harder to repair and could become a choking hazard.  

Ages 4 – 9
Crayons & Coloring Books.  Nothing keeps a youngster as content and therefore as quiet and occupied as a set of crayons and a coloring book. Put aside some girl-oriented coloring books and some books appropriate for boys.  Girls like girly things: houses, clothes, female figures, rainbows, horses, and furry critters. Boys like trucks and tractors, robots, war scenes, cowboys and Indians scenarios, and outdoor scenes.  These are the types of outlines that coloring books should contain in order to satisfy a child who is cast into a situation where her/his world may be vastly different and his/her friends may be unavailable.  If your own child has a particular preference, be sure to include that theme in your acquisition. Published coloring books will have gender-specific covers that will immediately signal whether they are more appropriate for boys or for girls.  Crayons should be non-toxic and come in a wide variety of colors. Acquire several boxes of crayons and do not remove them from their boxes, they will be less likely to melt. Obtain or make several coloring books, some for your own children and some for barter or charitable donations.  Downloading outlines and compiling them into 3-ring binders can be done in lieu of purchasing published books.  Kids of all ages might find them fun, whether they color on them or not. Older children may use the books for paper airplanes or for journals. Crayons are useful for adults, too, when an all-weather writing instrument is needed.

Hard candies add a sweet touch in what may otherwise be a sour situation.  Kids love candy, and giving them an individually wrapped hard candy at midmorning or mid-afternoon may be a treat that eases the change in routine which is an unavoidable part of any survival scenario. Although there are some drawbacks to storing candy, the rewards for doing so will offset any problems.  Store them in rodent proof containers and in a cool, dry location and they should be good for 12 months or more. Dental hygiene may be difficult, and too much of anything is seldom good, so ration the dole and don’t divulge the hiding place. Families will want to add some candy to their provisions, so lay in a supply of individually wrapped hard candies.  [JWR Adds: The ingredients for candy store much longer that wrapped candies, but even old candy that has "gone sticky" is generally still safe to eat. An annual candy-making session can be a lot of fun for kids, and it is also economical. Our favorite to make at home is molasses taffy.]

Clutch Toys.  Yard sales often provide an inexpensive source for small, fluffy clutch toys. These are toys that young children can carry with them for comfort and companionship. Look for small, soft toys and dolls that are clean and, whenever possible, brand new in the package. All loving parents want their children to be happy whether in good times or bad, so items that children want will make good barter items.      

Ages 10 – 13
Brain & Drain Items. This age group may be the most difficult to keep occupied and happy. Full of energy, full of questions, and accustomed to technological gadgetry, these young people need to keep their minds and their bodies busy. They need to use their brains and drain their physical energy.  A few jigsaw puzzles or pocket-size game books (don’t forget the pencils) will suffice for after-dinner wind-down time, but these kids need something more challenging and physical during the day.  A couple of Frisbees or a boomerang may keep the boys busy for a while. Girls may enjoy a small cosmetic set (with a built-in mirror) or a compact sewing kit with several colorful fabric scraps.  Don’t forget decks of cards for those inclement weather days. A small paperback book enumerating card game rules will help resolve the disputes that invariably arise from such games. Decks of cards for specific games, such as Pinochle, Crazy Eights, Touring, and Old Maid will make a more interesting barter item. Get generic decks of cards as well as  decks of specific card games to use as small, lightweight trade enticements. A colorful, genuine jump-rope would be prized by any girl in this age bracket. And boys might enjoy a Nerf ball.  I’d steer clear of baseballs and the like in order to avoid injury and damage. Kids this age are creative and will make up various games with simple items when they get bored. Having some of those simple items as barter bait may be a good investment.  

Ages 14 – 17
Independent & Vital.  This age group wants to be treated as adults, that’s true whether in a survival situation or not. Treat them as such.  These young adults should be given some responsibility, for their own sake and so that the true adults have fewer tasks. Give them something meaningful to do and they will prove themselves. Let them instruct the younger children.  Perhaps they can devise a gentle means of discipline for their siblings.  Ask them to forage, if necessary. Assign tasks to them that require some thought and/or some physical prowess, and make those tasks unique to them. Provide them with some of the trappings of adulthood.  Adult trappings for young men may include:  a good quality knife, a multi-tool, a locking cache box, or their own small tent for privacy.  The females in this age category may appreciate name-brand cosmetic kits, a shoulder bag (purse), or a colorful pair of sandals. These young people are seeking their place in life. They want to be set apart yet they also want to be an important part of the family. Items that help them attain a sense of usefulness and equality will be practical in barter negotiations.

Senior Citizens
Along with infants, this age group will likely need the most attention and care. That is not to say they should be ignored or resented, but it does mean they present an opportunity for the clever and well-prepared barterer. Having what they need and want may enable you to get whatever you need and want.

Personal Care.  Denture cream, magnifying glasses, packets of facial tissues, hand creams, bucket hats (this style of hat is often worn by both men and women), cold packs, heat packs, compact chess and checker sets, large print puzzle books (don’t forget the pencils), condoms, over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medications,  Ben-Gay, Vick's Vap-O-Rub, hard candies, and sunglasses.  While perhaps not as vigorous as they once were, these elderly folks can provide much depth and affection in a family, particularly for the children.  They should be treated with the respect and care they deserve. When they or their family have nothing to trade, a caring person will provide the barter item anyway. That’s what keeps us human.  

Adults
Almost Anything
.  Those people who fall between the ages of 19 and 64 carry the majority of the burden in providing for themselves and their families in all life’s situations.  Of course there are exceptions, but generally speaking that age group has the largest responsibility for the care and feeding of all others. As a trade-off, though, this age group is also the least likely to need extra help and supervision.  Still, we all like to have our own needs and desires fulfilled.

Some good barter items for this group, and in general, include pocket knives (get some small and colorful ones for the ladies), condoms, individual cosmetics, WISP (Colgate product) toothbrushes, .22 ammo, honey, Vaseline, sturdy work gloves in various sizes and colors, romance and mystery paperback books, spare batteries in various sizes,  feminine and masculine baseball-style caps, pocket sewing kits with spare buttons, eyeglass repair kits, used hand tools (hammers, wrenches, screwdrivers, folding pruning saws), tampons,  pencils and pens, journals, and bags of jerky. A word of caution:  don’t trade anything to anyone that could later be used against you or your family. For example, don’t barter ammo or a fixed-blade knife to someone you don’t trust, unless you absolutely need what they have and can’t get it elsewhere.     

Conclusion
No one can plan for every survival scenario.  What we can do, however, is set aside some items that can be bartered for those items we forgot, used up, or never knew we would need. The purpose of barter goods is to acquire honestly and peacefully what we want and need during times of trouble. These items also work well as charitable gifts to those in a worse way. All the items listed in this article are inexpensive and easy to acquire now, so start acquiring them now.  They take up little space and their individual weight is negligible.. Most of these things can be set aside for years, with nary a concern for their stability. Some can be obtained at yard sales or discount stores, other items can be purchased over a period of time. Each item will prove its value, whether for the specified age group or for a purpose not outlined above.  In other words, you will not be wasting your valuable space, time, or money by acquiring some or all of these items in small quantities.  I urge you to study the suggestions, think of some of your own, and create a separate bin, box, or bag for barter items.  Then place that container with your other survival gear. Good luck and God bless!



James,
My prayers and best wishes to you and your family. May the Lord sustain you during these trying times. Regarding "comfort foods", "Momma" makes sure to keep plenty of baking supplies on hand to make "goop"; sweet things with no nutritional value but loaded with morale-boosting ability.

We also have many jars of home-canned preserves, marmalades, chutneys, relishes and other additions to spice up otherwise bland meals. A little bit goes a long way.

I hope this might give some folks an idea to spice up their menus. Thanks, - Crustyrusty



The dip in silver that you've been waiting for has arrived. Take advantage of it. Come November, you'll be patting yourself on the back for your foresight.

Steve G. sent us the latest from Mish Shedlock: As of Friday August 14, 2009, FDIC is Bankrupt. Don't worry, be happy. Uncle Tim and Uncle Ben have a plan: Just add linen paper and ink!

A hilarious interview with The Mogambo Guru (aka Richard Daughty) was posted by The Daily Bell.

From Heather H.: Mountain of Debt: Social Security crisis looms. Heather's comment: "Finally, someone had the guts to call Social Security a 'Ponzi scheme'."

Federal Reserve Secretly Buying Treasuries at Auctions

Even more in the The Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB): Social Security crunch coming fast. (Thanks to DD for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Stocks Plunge as Investors Worry About Consumer Spending

AP Investigation: California Lawmakers Boost Staff Pay ("What budget crisis?")

Mike Whitney: The Economy is in Deep, Deep Trouble

Chicago City Government Closed Monday Due to Budget Constraints.

Europe and US Still at Risk for Deflation Trap

Lack of Inflation Means No Rise in Social Security Benefits

Consumer Confidence Falls Unexpectedly in August Yikes! The lowest measure of buying confidence in 60 years!

Stocks Drop Around the World on Economy Concerns

Darryl Schoon: Gold and Why Gold Now?

Wave of Foreclosures About to Break US Housing Market Dam



KAF alerted us to this from The Australian: Food prices to surge under emissions trading scheme

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Robert M. forwarded this: The Mars menu: This is not Buzz Aldrin's astronaut food

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Readers in the Boise, Idaho area might find this event on Saturday, September 12th of interest. Oh, and please wear a SurvivalBlog or Bennington Flag hat or T-shirt, since you never know who you might meet.



"A heart well prepared for adversity in bad times hopes, and in good times fears for a change in fortune." - Horace


Monday, August 17, 2009


I was recently featured in a slightly tongue-in-cheek article in La Razon, a major newspaper in Spain: Survivalistas: preparados para lo peor.

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Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



“Everything in life is a trade-off.”  There’s wisdom in that and anyone who wants to be prepared has to make the best trade-offs for functionality and their budget. 

Most people who prepare for emergency scenarios, whether it be civil unrest, terrorist attack, EMP, or whatever, include a firearm in their plans. A firearm provides protection and a way to harvest game that is second-to-none.  But firearms require cartridges and there’s the rub.  Unless your last name is Gates, Walton, or Rockefeller, you can’t afford to have 10,000 rounds of ammunition just setting around.  If you have regular job and are working on being prepared as a contingency, you can’t spend all your money and time on ammunition.  There are too many other things that need to be bought and done.

This article assumes you know some basic nomenclature.  If you look at a centerfire cartridge, that is almost any [modern brass-cased[ cartridge except a .22 you’ll see on the bottom a circle that is the primer, which is the contact explosive which sets off the main gunpowder charge.  The cartridge case is the brass tube that holds the primer and the bullet.  The bullet is the projectile that the powder charge forces down the barrel and out to do the actual work.  Fully loaded and ready to shoot, this is called a cartridge. 

Reloading your ammunition is a way to get multiple shots from one cartridge case.  Reloading treats the bullet, primer, and powder as expendables, and recycles the brass case to be used again.  Here again, there are trade-offs.  You can easily spend over $2,000 for reloading supplies for just one cartridge and need a full-size workbench just to reload your ammunition  $2,000 buys a lot of ammunition and unless you are a competitive shooter who shoots hundreds of rounds a week, this is probably not the way you’ll want to go.  You can step down to a couple hundred dollars for a reloading press and dies that will do an excellent job, but still is bulky and hard to transport if you have to leave in a hurry.

There is a way to reload that only takes up about as much space as a paperback book and only requires a wooden stump and a small chunk of wood to completely reload ammunition if you have the consumables: the Lee Loader. This simplified reloading device was invented in 1958 by Richard Lee.  Although the center fire rifle and pistols reloading kits did not come around until a couple of years after that.  I recently purchased a couple of loaders for less than $20 each online on sale.  This will give you easily over $100 to spend on consumables.  You can stock up quite a bit of primer, powder, and bullets for the $100 (at minimum) you saved by going with a Lee Loader. 

These loaders have superb accuracy and lengthen the life of the case because they only size the neck of the case.  A regular press with dies sizes the whole body which is necessary if your brass has been fired in more than one firearm.  However, if you’re only using one firearm for that caliber, the brass will fire form to fit that chamber like a glove.  The accuracy is second to none.  For over seven years, according to the Lee web site, the Guinness World Record for accuracy was held by ammunition loaded by a Lee Loader. 

[JWR Adds: Because these small hand presses do not full-length re-size cases, they may prove unsuitable for reloading ammunition for many semi-auto rifles, but they usually work fine for single shot and bolt action rifles. ]
  
The small plastic case contains four or five parts that let you de-prime, size, re-prime, charge, and seat the bullet on the case.  I’ve seen a video on You Tube of a man starting with a once fired case, completing all the steps and having a round ready to go in 40 seconds.  I wouldn’t recommend going this fast.  Although, after using one to reload several hundred rounds, you’ll begin to get a rhythm that will increase your speed.

The first step is to de-prime the case.  The kit comes with a de-priming pin and de-priming chamber which basically holds the base of the cartridge but doesn’t support the spent primer.  By sliding the pin through the case neck onto the primer, a simple tap with either a non-marring hammer or a piece of wood drives the spent primer out of the case. 
Here’s where an extra not included in the kit can be very handy.  A case-specific trimmer can be used to make sure that the brass hasn't flowed forward and your case has hence become too long.  The
load card that comes with the kit gives the maximum trim length of the cartridge as well as the maximum overall length.  So another extra that would be very handy is a set of calipers. 

The second step is resizing the neck.  The largest part of the kit is the resizing chamber which is just a piece of steel machined to the size of the case.  By putting the case into the chamber and driving it home with whatever you used to de-prime the case, you size the neck to fit the new projectile. 

The third step is to re-prime the case.  With the case fully seated in the sizing die, a new primer is set on the priming chamber cup up.  Then you turn the sizing die upside down so that the base of the cartridge is pointing down and place this over the priming chamber.  They are made to fit together so that the pocket and the primer will match over each other.  Then the priming rod is fed into the case mouth just like the de-primer which was used earlier.  A couple of good solid whacks will seat the primer into the pocket.  Because of variations in pocket depth and primer sensitivity, you should make sure that your head is not above the case when doing this.  Although I’ve only had it happen a few times and never had the priming rod fly out, I’ve heard stories of this happening and the pop of the primer going is enough to startle you.

[JWR Adds: I strongly recommend setting the priority of purchasing a Hand Priming Tool. This is not only safer, but will provide far greater consistency in primer seating depth. It is also a tool that you will want to keep, if and when you graduate to a more sophisticated bench-mounted reloading press. With the "feel" provided by hand-priming tool, you will get great consistency, which helps contribute to making the most accurate and reliable ammunition.]

While priming, the base of the case will be driven a short distance out of the sizing chamber. You should put the case on the de-priming chamber because it will protect the primer from any impacts and will make it much less likely to detonate. Use the priming rod to push the case far enough out of the mouth that it will come loose from the sizing die and set on the de-priming chamber.
The next step is to put your powder into the case.  The top of the sizing chamber will now act as a funnel for inserting the powder.  The Lee kit comes with a powder scoop sized in cubic centimeters and a list of powders that will work with this cartridge and this scoop.  The best way to do this to achieve maximum repeatable accuracy is to pour the powder into a larger container, dip the scoop down below the level of the powder, bring up and rake across the top with a stiff piece of paper, like a business card.  From there, you simply dump the powder into the top of the sizing die to charge the case.
Once the case is loaded, all you’ll need to do is insert your projectile.  Use the seater that is integral to the priming chamber to set the bullet by hammering the bullet into the case mouth, creating a newly-loaded cartridge.  Here’s a place where the calipers I spoke of earlier would come in very handy again.  You could check the seating of the bullet to a factory-loaded case.  But a pair of inexpensive calipers would be very handy to make sure the bullet is seated to the proper depth. 

After this is done, you will have a fully-loaded cartridge. However, for the sake of efficient motion, if I am reloading a box of cartridges, I will go through and de-prime them all first and then load them all in batches.  Before you start, you should also wipe down the cases to make sure there is no grit that could case wear on your loader. 

Another nice thing about this way of reloading is that it doesn’t require special lubricant like most other presses.  It also doesn’t require a powder scale, although it could be useful if you want to work up a special load for your firearm. 

So here’s a way to reload a complete cartridge that only takes minimal space, weighs little, doesn’t require a bench or any special tools that don’t come in the case and can load high quality ammunition.  It also costs less than a fifth of what other reloading systems would cost, giving you more money for either consumables or other projects.



Mr. Editor,
I think someone should mention that one part of food storage schemes that is often overlooked is "comfort foods". These are foods that can be used as occasional pick-me-ups that can break up a really monotonous and bland diet, when you are [living] on storage foods. It is also important to be able to celebrate special events, holidays, and big accomplishments, with something more than just a bowl of canned peaches. But my question is: What comfort foods do I store, that store well for years? Thanx, - Clifford D.

JWR Replies: I agree! Part of keeping harmony in a family during trying times is maintaining the ability to cheer folks up. Several of our advertisers sell "comfort" type storage foods, some with remarkably long shelf lives. These include:

Freeze Dry Guy
JRH Enterprises
Ready Made Resources
Safecastle
Best Prices Storable Foods
Healthy Harvest
Milk on the Moove

For example, see the "Dessert Cakes in a Can" offered by Ready Made Resources, and the freeze dried Raspberry Crumble and Blueberry Cheesecake, both sold by Safecastle.





KAF flagged this: Tax Dodgers Scramble for Options Amid U.S. Crackdown [JWR Adds: Given this development, I predict that the offshore banking crowd may soon embrace some heretofore "outlaw" nations. There are lots of folks that are willing to take more risk in exchange for total privacy.]

Karen H. forwarded these:

Consumer Prices Fall as Shoppers Hold Back

With Lobster Prices Low, Things Get Ugly in Maine

Recession Chills Sunshine State Tourism

Items from The Economatrix:

Shifting Sands

Bank on Inflation (The Mogambo Guru)

Commercial Real Estate, Construction, and Finance Employment: How Commercial Real Estate Will Drag the California Economy Deeper Into Recession


How the US Treasury and Federal Reserve Juice the Market


The Grinch is About to Steal Christmas


Sales Unexpectedly Fall on Job Losses


US Consumer Confidence Sinks on Jobs Concern


Gasoline May Decline to $1.76 Within a Month
[JWR Adds: But higher crude oil prices are expected before the end of the year, so fill up your storage tanks, folks!]

Bank of Israel Halts Daily US-Dollar Purchase Program


Commentary from Mish Shedlock: Peas in the Deflationary Economic Pod
. JWR's Comment: Yes, there will be deflation in the short term, but then watch out!

And from commentator Mike Whitney: US Financial System is Bankrupt, Economy Spinning Out of Control



Steven C. sent a link to an article about some exciting new developments in sodium-sulphur battery technology: Power Shift; New battery could change world, one house at a time. Hmm... If I were speculator, then I might consider buying some stock in Industrias Peñoles.

   o o o

Mark P. sent this: Accountant, lawyer, dentist — future farmers? Program partners aspiring farmers with aging pros to preserve way of life. Mark's comment: "This might be a vehicle for some to make the break with the city and learn those skills they will need as things go from bad to worse. "

   o o o

The new Surviving Disaster series premieres on Spike TV on Sept. 1st. It looks like it might be worth watching. Meanwhile, I've been enjoying The Colony, on The Discovery Channel (via online streaming--I don't own a television.) Four full episodes are now available online.

   o o o

Thanks to Sue C. for spotting this: Old-fashioned bartering helps pare medical bills



"He that tilleth his land shall have plenty of bread: but he that followeth after vain persons shall have poverty enough." - Proverbs 28:19 (KJV)


Sunday, August 16, 2009


My wife ("The Memsahib") asked me to send her thanks for your many prayers. She has felt greatly uplifted by prayer, and a great sense of peace, in anticipation of being united with the Lord. May God Bless You!



Good Morning!
Thank you for the info you provide for all of us in your web site. I live in the Kansas City Area in a beautiful suburb which is one of the nicest cities in the country. till doing okay in the depression too. My work is secure and I do well and I own my own twp-story with basement frame home and have been making it a retreat for the past five years. I have no debt and am 60 days ahead with my mortgage and insurance and utilities. Am I absolutely crazy to try to stay here when things go bad?

First, let me tell you what I have done. I have a new roof ,which is fireproof. I have two large fire extinguishers in each room and more in the basement and garage and attic and I have a 2-inch fire hose with Honda generator to pull water from my 2,000 gallon swimming pool/fountain as well as from my 2,000 gallon [combined capacity] plastic tanks under the deck. Yes, they will freeze in the winter so I may add a new tank in the basement. I have 100 50-pound bags of sand which can also put out fires [and double as ballistic protection].

I have a strong 7' wood cedar privacy fence around my back and side yards and I have landscaped them such that it is difficult to see into my yard from any point but still need to add a few more tall bushes to screen my home. I brought in 80 [cubic] yards of great topsoil for the backyard to level it and to add garden areas so I can grow lots of food. I have a gutter system hooked up to the water storage and I have 3 months of water stored now in the basement and when the time comes new 55 gallon water barrels with hand pumps will be in each of my 4 bath rooms and kitchen. There is a pond and active stream 200' from my home and 5 of my neighbors next door and up hill from me have large swimming pools that I can siphon water from. I can produce clean water for 25 for 20 years with my water filters. So I have five ways to get water when the tap stops running.

I can feed my family for more than five years and then grow food too. I have all the stuff you buy in the stores weekly. I can grow food inside or outside and in a greenhouse too that is next to the house which can be heated with the natural warmth of the earth /basement and wood-burning stove, and sunshine.

We can protect ourselves better than anyone you might know, night and day. I have tried to set up my perimeter in my yard using the fence and bushes and trees and berms, etc. without anyone seeing the difference so that a stray bullet or two will not hit us easily. I will build gravel plywood walls in key places inside when TSHTF to reduce stray bullets. My fireplace is 5' x 5' x 4' deep so I can burn 4' foot logs and keep half my home warm and the firewood is placed outside on the side yards to slow down a bullet or two. The fireplace outside is 10' wide and goes above the roof. I have a wood stack 10 yards long, half of it is 4' long wood. I built a barbeque grill/water fall/pool that is solid 12' concrete that works well to stop bullets and it is 20' long and 8' high and looks really cool too.
In my basement I am finishing I added some 12" concrete walls to also give more strength to the floor above and to
slow down a bullet or two.

There are thick forests within 200' of my neighborhood to hide in if necessary and they run the stream for 50 miles. I have a nice "wine room" that is built to Joel Skousen standards [per his book The Secure Home] just in case the web bots are right and we have a problem with radiation.

I may have missed to say a thing or two but have been through others check lists to cover it all.

Can I make it in the city? Or do I want to be a refugee or try to live with friends four normal driving hours away without my stuff?

Thanks, - B., Near K.C.

JWR Replies: Your preparations are excellent for someone living in the suburbs. I believe that your plans to stay in place will probably suffice for all but a true worst-case scenario. But it is important to get to know your contiguous neighbors well, including the neighbors behind your back fence. Having neighbors that you know on a first name basis, and that you can trust in times of Deep Drama will be crucial in the next decade. At present, my best estimate is that we will likely experience an economic depression that will be on a par with the Great Depression of the 1930s. Crime will be rampant, and you will need to institute a Neighborhood Watch on Steroids. That necessitates solid familiarity and trust.

Attached greenhouses are wonderful for situations where there isn't much home invasion crime, but they are a huge security risk in inimical times.

I recommend that you hedge your bets by pre-positioning some of your supplies with your friends, in anticipation of worst-case grid down collapse, where the municipal water will not be available. This is not a major issue for you, since you have an abundance of stored water, and rainwater collection system. But "grid down" will be a true disaster for your neighbors within just a few days. They will likely abandon their houses, leaving you by yourself to defend against large numbers of very desperate looters. You mentioned that you have a five year food supply --which is quite commendable--I'd recommend that you store up to half of it with your friends in the country. Keep in mind that you may only have the opportunity to make one trip Outta Dodge, so it is important to have some crucial logistics stored at your backup retreat.



Farmer John suggested this piece by James Quinn: American Idiots. John's comment: "This is why the government can do what it wants."

Karen H. kindly sent these items:

Regulators Shut Down Colonial BancGroup; Largest U.S. Bank to Fail in 2009. JWR Warns: There are many more bank failures to come!

Toxic Loans Topping 5% May Push 150 Banks to Point of No Return

Sugar May Advance 80% on Supply Crunch, Coleman says [Have you already stocked up?]

U.S. Economy: Consumer Sentiment Falls, Prices Steady

Items from The Economatrix:

Alabama-based Colonial Bank Fails, Cost is $2.8 Billion

BB&T Takes Colonial as Regulators Take Five Banks; Biggest Failure Since WaMu

This So-Called Recovery is Going Nowhere

Goldman: Get Ready for Oil to Go Back to $147 [Top off your fuel storage tanks in Septemeber, when the price of fuel bottoms!]



Dan H. and Chris Z. both pointed to where the EMP threat is getting some more mainstream media coverage: Rep. Roscoe Bartlett On Grid Security

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F.G. mentioned this news item about the new Terms and Conditions (Ts and Cs) for the Ts and Cs: Britain imposes direct rule of Turks and Caicos isles. F.G. 's comment: "The empires strikes back!" [JWR Adds: Did offshore banking privacy play into this decision?]

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Global warming update: Wyoming set for Late Summer Mountain Snowstorm. One historical note: Snow has been reported in every month of the year in every county in Wyoming.

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Karen wrote to note that the Utah Preppers Network has posted some book reviews of my novel "Patriots". Meanwhile, the editor of the JC Refuge Blog has posted a review of my upcoming nonfiction book: "How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It". (As previously mentioned, please wait until September 30th --the "Book Bomb" day--to place your order. For maximum impact, I'd prefer that the majority of orders were placed through Amazon.com. Thanks!



"The LORD will perfect [that which] concerneth me: thy mercy, O LORD, [endureth] for ever: forsake not the works of thine own hands." - Psalm 138:8 (KJV)


Saturday, August 15, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



I wrote the following essay five years ago. Not only are the issues presented below still relevant today, they're more critical than ever. This is about the end of your financial world as you know it, independent of a terrorist strike

Perhaps one of the most alarming observations is that, up until our present generation, Americans were far more aware of the meaning of money and they carried gold and silver coins in their pockets. Today, the people are much too pre-occupied, distracted, or just plain naïve, and they don't possess the outrage about what is happening to their money and their country.

I hope that this effort, in some way, puts our present condition into perspective. There are three things that guarantee our freedom: God - spiritual freedom, Guns - freedom from tyrants or anyone who would do you harm, and Gold - freedom from the money masters who would enslave you.

---

One of the laws of the Human Condition is that man must be productive in order to survive. Historically, this productivity has been measured in everything from sea shells to gold and just about every commodity in between. These commodities enabled productive man to barter or exchange his wealth for other things he desired.

The problem today is that our productivity is measured in U.S. Dollars, a currency printed at will by the Federal Reserve. Originally, the currency of the U.S. was gold and silver. With the introduction of the Federal Reserve in 1913, they established a paper currency that was redeemable in gold and silver which meant that one could take their dollars to the bank and exchange them for like value in gold or silver. Whether you were a foreigner or citizen of the US, the dollar was "as good as gold". In 1933, President Roosevelt changed that and made it illegal for US citizens to own gold.

The Bretton Woods Agreement of July 22, 1944 replaced gold and established the U.S. dollar as the new reserve currency. After all, since the U.S. had literally saved the world during World War II, and was the only country left standing with a healthy economy in the aftermath, it was reasoned that the U.S. dollar (which was fully backed by gold of course) could and should serve as the reserve currency of the world.

Then in 1971, France became aware that the U.S. was printing dollars with abandon so they began to redeem their dollars for gold per the Bretton Woods Agreement that the U.S. had signed. President Nixon realized that this would be catastrophic for the U.S. as, at that rate of redemption, our gold reserves would quickly be depleted so he reneged on the Bretton Woods Agreement and "closed the gold window" which meant that foreigners could no longer redeem U.S. dollars for gold. In other words, they were stuck with paper dollars they had accumulated worth nothing more than the "good faith and credit of the U.S." no longer redeemable for gold but, rather, for goods and services provided by the issuer, the United States. We and the rest of the world were, for perhaps the first time in history, on a complete fiat currency standard experiment. As a result, it would be instructive to view a chart of the volume of dollars that have been created since then with no real backing whatsoever as it is an almost vertical graph.

It might also be interesting to note that since 1971, we transitioned from a nation with the greatest trade surplus to one with the greatest trade deficit. This is not a coincidence.

So if the Federal Reserve can print dollars with no tie to redeemability to a true asset, then the measure of one's productivity is totally arbitrary and subject to the whim and will of the Federal Reserve. Also, the freedom to print the world's reserve currency is extremely fortunate for the U.S. (France referred to it as "exorbitant privilege"). In the words of Dire Straits, the U.S. is getting it's "money for nothing and its kicks for free".

Roosevelt, 1933
Going back to pre-1933, we find the ubiquitous $20 gold piece (consisting of [nearly] 1 ounce of gold) with a value of $20 dollars of purchasing power.

The US was in trouble due to the Great Depression and the economists of the day were at a loss to solve the problem so it was decided the government had to "finance" the recovery by printing massive amounts of dollars. (Actually, one must wonder what type of solution this actually is since it's simply a hidden tax on everyone through inflation and increased taxes never help to pull an economy out of a recession / depression.) The problem was that gold was a reliable barometer for measuring inflation and if inflation was perceived to be on the rise (which it surely would) everyone would cash in their paper dollars for gold. So in the wisdom of the government, the decision was made to outlaw gold ownership by U.S. citizens.

Check out The Gold Confiscation Of April 5, 1933. It became clear to the government that they could not afford to allow people to own and keep their gold. Murray Rothbard explains:

"Government could never cement its power over a nation's currency, if the people, when in need, could repudiate the fiat paper and turn to gold for money."

After the gold confiscation, the U.S. government immediately revalued gold at $35 per ounce. So that same $20 gold coin that was just relinquished by the good, law abiding citizens would now cost $35 dollars to repurchase...if it were legal to do so.

[JWR Adds: It was not until January, 1975, (42 years later!) that it again became legal for individual Americans to own non-numismatic gold.]

See this link for a detailed explanation: Should We Be On a Gold Standard?

From the link...

"As James Bovard observes, "citizens had accepted a paper currency based on the government's pledge to redeem it in gold at $20 per ounce; then, when Roosevelt decided to default on that pledge, he also felt obliged to turn all citizens holding gold into criminals. [10] Roosevelt also condemned them as selfish traitors."

One day later Roosevelt reduced the gold content of the dollar by 41%, raising the price of gold from $20.67 per ounce to $35.00 an ounce. The devaluation resulted in a $2.8 billion "bonus" for the government." An especially tidy sum in those days.

This is clearly one of the most blatant and manipulative examples of the U.S. government reneging on a promise to it's citizens.

And, by the way, today that one ounce of gold in a $20 gold piece is worth about $425. It's interesting to note that, in the early 1900s, one could by a nice dress suit with that $20 gold piece and today they still can get a nice dress suite for the value of that $20 gold piece or $425. So gold hasn't gotten more expensive, rather the purchasing power of the dollar has declined, dramatically, thanks to the Federal Reserve.

Larry Summers and Gibson's Paradox...

For some background information on Gibson's Paradox, go to The Golden Sextant and scroll down to the Essays section. There you will see a link to Gibson's Paradox Revisited: Professor Summers Analyzes Gold Prices.

Then visit this article which brings it all together...

Taylor On US Dollar & Gold

From the link...

One very influential person in the Clinton Administration was very much aware of Gibson's Paradox, which Keynes noted was one of the best documented relationships in all of economics. Gibson's Paradox stated that if "real" interest rates decline, the price of gold will rise vis-a-vis the currency. But the Clinton Administration knew full well that a rising gold price would hurt their ability to leverage America's future for their own political gains. Hence, the Clinton Administration began to intervene in the gold market to "cap" the price of gold, just as Lawrence Summers clearly noted they must do in a paper he co-authored while a professor at Harvard in the late 1980s.

Dollars, Oil, and the Euro
One of the keys to the success of the dollar is that all OPEC oil transactions must be denominated in U.S. Dollars. This creates an enormous demand for dollars as any country in the market to buy oil must sell their currency in exchange for dollars with which to buy the oil they need.

From the link...

"But the need to dominate oil from Iraq is also deeply intertwined with the defense of the dollar. Its current strength is supported by OPEC's requirement (secured by a secret agreement between the US and Saudi Arabia) that all OPEC oil sales be denominated in dollars. This requirement is currently threatened by the desire of some OPEC countries to allow OPEC oil sales to be paid in euros."

and...

"The United States has at present little reason to fear a challenge to the dollar from Malaysia. But Malaysia is an Islamic country; and the US has every reason to fear a similar challenge from the Islamic nations in OPEC, were they to force OPEC to cease OPEC oil sales in dollars, and denominate them instead in euros."

The War Enabler
When country "A" decides to declare war on country "B", its ability to do so is directly correlated to its ability to pay for its war machine. Troops, tanks, guns, an air force, bombs, a navy, and on and on.

When a country's currency is tied to a real asset such as gold and there isn't enough gold in the treasury, it simply can't pay the expense of waging war and alternative solutions are found.

A country on a fiat currency system has no problem printing the money to pay for the war machine so war it will be. For example, some say the US government has already spent $100 billion on the war in Iraq. Additional costs are estimated to be anywhere from another $50 to $200 billion. Where does all this money come from?

The simplified answer is probably something like: The U.S. Treasury prints paper Treasury Bonds that they "sell" to the Federal Reserve which prints the paper dollars required to pay for the T-Bonds. Now the government has the dollars to pay for efforts in Iraq and the Federal Reserve uses the T-Bonds as an asset against which they can print many more dollars (principal of fractional reserve) to be lent to banks across the country.

See this link for a graphic flow chart of the process.

Perhaps the most dramatic example of what this can lead to is from the Weimar Republic after World War I. It's instructive to realize that in the beginning, the Weimar Republic's currency was the 20 Mark gold piece, a coin about the size of one of our quarters. After World War I, the Weimar Republic was decimated and they fell into the trap of embracing a fiat alternative to honest money, the new currency became the 20 Mark paper note and as could have been predicted, the inflation began.

This was no ordinary inflation though, as the original 20 Mark paper notes eventually inflated to 4,000,000,000,000 Marks. That's 4 trillion Marks to buy what the original 20 Mark gold piece would buy only several years earlier. I have seen pictures of women loading wheelbarrows of paper Marks into the fireplace to burn for heat and cooking because they were worth less than wood. The government was printing them so quickly and in such numbers that, to conserve the ink, they only printed one side of the paper note.

I am reminded of an exchange with a women who lived through those times in the Weimar Republic after World War I in which she was asked, "how could you possibly support someone like Adolph Hitler through his rise to power?" The lady's response to the question put to her was quite simple, "when you have to catch rats to eat for food, any alternative appears more attractive."

I'm not saying this will be the fate of America, but visit this link for a candid assessment of the state of matter today. This article about The $44 Trillion Abyss sheds some light on the financial mess our politicians have created. Scroll down to 12/13/2003 Interview on the left of the page for the Real Audio and MP3 links to listen.

Who is John Galt?
The former Chairman of the Federal Reserve was Alan Greenspan, who was at the time arguably the single most powerful man on the planet as he directed the monetary policy of the United States. Historically, the official reserve currency throughout the world has been gold since most if not all countries settled their trade accounts with gold. In other words, if country "A" imported more goods from country "B" than it exported, then country "A" paid the balance to country "B" in gold.

Unfortunately, President Nixon terminated the Bretton Woods Agreement by reneging on the redeemability of dollars for gold in 1971.

Today, countries have accumulated huge numbers of dollars with which to settle their trade accounts but the dollar is reaching the end of its time line. As Voltaire said: "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value - zero."

Visit Gold and Economic Freedom to see what Mr. Greenspan thought of gold and those who print paper money. Given Mr. Greenspan's eloquent dissertation on the subject, I can only see two possible conclusions, either Mr. Greenspan has sold out and become one of the very statists he railed against in his now famous speech at the link above or he sees himself as Ayn Rand's hero, John Galt, who's mission it was to stop the economic engine of the world and thereby forcing everyone to come to their senses.

Time may tell.

Honest Money
The Lord admonished the Hebrews to always maintain honest weights and measures. I believe he did this because, in his wisdom, he knew that any system that was based on dishonesty of economic standards was destined to become further corrupted morally and ethically and lead to its eventual downfall.

Fiat currency is the antithesis of honesty.

Today, the Arab world is moving toward commerce and settlement in the Islamic dinar, a gold coin, in there attempt to break away from the U.S. dollar hegemony even as the U.S. demonstrates via Iraq how such efforts will be met. Europe had a chance to do likewise but they decided on just another fiat currency, the euro. Yet these developments bring us ever closer to the possibility of a universal currency.

From Making Economic Sense...

"For a half-century, the Keynesians have harbored a Dream. They have long dreamed of a world without gold, a world rid of any restrictions upon their desire to spend and spend, inflate and inflate, elect and elect. They have achieved a world where governments and Central Banks are free to inflate without suffering the limits and restrictions of the gold standard. But they still chafe at the fact that, although national governments are free to inflate and print money, they yet find themselves limited by depreciation of their currency. If Italy, for example, issues a great many lira, the lira will depreciate in terms of other currencies, and Italians will find the prices of their imports and of foreign resources skyrocketing."

"What the Keynesians have dreamed of, then, is a world with one fiat currency, the issues of that paper currency being generated and controlled by one World Central Bank. What the new currency unit is called doesn't really matter; Keynes called his proposed unit at the Bretton Woods Conference of 1944, the "bancor"; Harry Dexter White, the U.S. Treasury negotiator at that time, called his proposed money the "unita"; and the London Economist has dubbed its suggested new world money the "phoenix." Fiat money by any name smells just as sour."

Then consider this quote from one of history's most notorious bankers:

"Give me control of a nation's money and I care not who makes the laws." - Mayer Amschel Bauer (Rothschild)

It may not be a one world government we have to fear, but rather a one world currency. The good news is that, today, gold is readily available to those interested in purchasing it.

In closing, I would like to share this link to Running On Empty by Mr. Pete Peterson that speaks to the subject. What I find refreshing is that he is someone from the Republican Establishment, Nixon Secretary of Commerce, a personal friend of the Alan Greenspan, secretary Snow and others and yet he has the integrity to articulate and explain the very dangerous road we are on, i.e. a $44 trillion debt in unfunded liabilities. His motivation for writing the book was "to protect our children". I don't know about you but that catches my attention.

He holds the Republican and Democratic parties equally responsible yet I wonder if, like Mr. Kotlikoff who wrote The Coming Generational Storm, Mr. Peterson isn't just another "voice crying in the wilderness". And isn't it interesting that you don't hear much about this crisis in the popular media.

So where does all of this leave us? It leaves us in the clutches of government doing what government does best. Government has a propensity to grow. Our founding fathers where well aware of this and it is exactly what they wanted to prevent. As government grows, it expands not only its reach into the individuals life but it also exacts a tax in doing so. This tax together with all the other sources of revenue have a limiting effect on government as they can only extract so much in the form of taxes. So in order to circumvent this limitation, government simply prints more dollars. Note that this solution was not available to the statists while under an honest money regime of a gold-backed currency. This point brings, full circle, the question and answer of why our elected representatives have brought us to this point in time. They relish the ability to curry the favor of their constituency, and thus their votes, by being able to provide spending programs for which there is no money.

This is the logical progression: tax business and the citizens to pay for votes. Increases taxes until it becomes politically unpopular to do so. Then inflate the currency (hidden tax) by creating money to finance spending.

Between August and the end of October the government must sell $300 billion in Treasury bonds (loans) to finance a government lifestyle that is spending way beyond it's means. And here is the key note: foreign countries, the major investors of US Treasury bonds, are growing increasingly concerned that their investments are diminishing in value because the US is printing excessive amounts of dollars, consequently devaluing their investments. As they buy fewer US Treasury bonds (loans), the unsold Treasuries will have to be bought and this can only be done by the US printing dollars and buying its own debt. This mechanism is called "monetizing the debt". It signals the beginning of the end because once the US begins to monetize the debt, the consumers of US Treasury bonds will reduce their consumption for fear of loss of value due to the US dollar printing. This will cause the US to have to print more dollars to buy up the Treasury bonds the rest of the world shunned. And this, in turn, creates even more reluctance by the rest of the world to finance our debt and the death spiral of hyper inflation is launched. In case you're not aware, this process began several months ago with a Federal Reserve announcement of intent to purchase $300 billion in Treasuries. And that's why you need gold. - Javaman



Hi,
The article in the August 14th "odds n' sods" (Scots Guards Sniper Kills Taliban Leader with Longest Shot) quotes the longest shot on record being this one by Cpl. Christopher Reynolds. Cpl Reynolds says it is the longest shot (confirmed kill) in Afghanistan. Apologies in advance if I am wrong, but the longest confirmed kill anywhere was done by Master Corporal Rob Furlong (Princess Patricia's Canadian Light Infantry or PPCLI) in Operation Anaconda in Afghanistan at a distance of 2,430 meters in 2002. He used a McMillan Tac-50 rifle.

The second longest was Master Corporal Aaron Perry (also PPCLI in Operation Anaconda) at 2,310 meters.

The third longest was the legendary Gunnery Sergeant Carlos Hathcock (USMC) in South Vietnam 1967 at 2,286 meters.

None of this is to take away from the brilliant work by Cpl Reynolds, but just to keep the Daily Express honest in their reporting. - Anon. Lima



Greg C. flagged this: Retail sales dip unexpectedly, jobless claims rise. Greg's comment: It is amazing how they still keep trying to spin this [continuing decline] as a “recovery.”

Bobbi-Sue sent this Der Spiegel piece: Global Banking Economist Warned of Coming Crisis.

Thanks to Heather for sending this: US sugar supplies 'running out' US food manufacturers call for an easing of sugar import limits, saying they fear the country may run out of supplies.

Items from The Economatrix:

The Problem with Sticking it to Your Creditors

Panel Warns Smaller Banks Face Whole-Loans Threat

"We" Broke The Bank

Bleak Sales are Another Reality Check for Economy

Climate Bill Could Cost Two Million Jobs

Jim Willie warns: Pressure (Countdown) to Breakdown [JWR Notes: Some of what Willie posits are unsubstantiated rumors, so digest it accordingly.]

California to Stop Issuing IOUs

Fed Reverses Plan to Buy US Debt [JWR adds: Monetization must be done more stealthily, to prevent an uproar.]



"A. Marine" suggested this educational video on making thermite. (The usual chemistry experiment and welding safety disclaimers apply. Beware that the use of fine brille materials or packing them in a confined space could resulting in an explosion.) See my novel "Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse" for greater detail as well as some, potential welding project applicability.

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From reader DD: Ways to lower water usage.

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Tamara (of the invariably witty View From the Porch blog), linked to a news story from "Out in the west Texas town of El Paso": Soldier accused of being hit man for cartel. (But this sounds a lot more like something from No Country for Old Men than it does the old Marty Robbins song.)

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Clearly, our nation is still thoroughly and unrepentantly sinful, from the East Coast to the West Coast.

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I noticed that there are now four episodes of the post-TEOTWAWKI reality television show The Colony (from The Discovery Channel) now available for free download. The latest two episodes finally exposed the "colonists" pitiful lack of security. This dose of reality made their erstwhile priority of building a solar-heated shower look absurd.



"This I recall to my mind, therefore have I hope. It is of the Lord's mercies that we are not consumed because his compassions fail not, they are new every morning. Great is Thy faithfulness. The Lord is my portion, saith my soul; therefore will I hope in him. The Lord is good unto them that wait for him, to the soul that seeketh him. It is good that a man should both hope and quietly wait for the salvation of the Lord." - Lamentations 3: 21-26


Friday, August 14, 2009


Your prayers would be appreciated, as The Memsahib's strength is now failing rapidly.

Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



I watched the second episode of the [reality television show] The Colony, [that is currently airing on The Discovery Channel]. I found one part of it especially idiotic. They had a bank of automobile batteries for electrical power [to power an AC inverter.]s They did not have a way to charge the batteries yet, and they were still using a circular saw and a Sawzall to construct different things, among them was using a Sawzall to cut tread out of tires for shoes. They were building some thing out of plywood and they were cutting the plywood with the circular saw. All jobs that could be done with a handsaw, the tires are best cut with a hack saw. I remember back when I entered the work force, I worked for my father in construction. The circular saw had just taken hold but mainly they used hand tools in construction. I can remember using a hand saw till I thought my arm was going to fall off. It was not that circular saws were not around, they were, but cost so much that labor was cheaper. I can remember visiting jobs that my father was on and seeing several men using a ripping hand saw to rip 2x6s and 2x10s. Could you recognize a ripping hand saw if you saw one? They have fewer teeth per inch than a cross cut. A cross cut saw can be used to make a rip cut, but it will be slower. Ripping is where you cut with the grain of the wood. I remember my father’s carpenter’s tool box. It contained three hand saws; one cross cut, one rip saw and a cross cut that came to a point instead of being blunt, two planes, one door plane (large) and a pocket plane, a set of wood chisels, a plumb bob, a framing square and a nail set. There was also a tape measure and a folding carpenter ruler--it was an 8-footer. He also had a 16 oz carpenter’s hammer and a roofing hatchet and a brace and bit. How many people know what a brace and bit are? It is a hand drill used mainly for wood. (But with the right bit metal is not out of the question, it also depends how much labor you are willing to do.)

Seeing this episode of The Colony got me to thinking about hand tools and the fact that when TSHTF there will probably not be any electricity. Having experience using hand tools and a system of cordless power tools to use in an emergency would be a good thing.  My favorite cordless power tools are Dewalt brand, specifically the [later variety with the] 18 volt battery. I checked the Dewalt web site and found 47 18-volt tools with a few duplicates. Dewalt makes a battery charger that runs on 12 volt DC current. I have a portable battery pack that can jump a car’s battery or run 12 volt devices i.e. Dewalt 12 volt DC charger. I can charge two 18 volt batteries before charging the battery pack. The battery pack can be charged by a variety of ways. Bicycle power or photovoltaics or a generator, or plug it into my truck. Currently I have a Dewalt drill, circular saw, Sawzall, and two lamps. Hand tools are two hand saws (cross cut), a set of chisels, framing square, speed square (smaller), a set of mechanics tools, assorted files, draw knife, three hand axes, key hole saw, a set of duct tools (to make air conditioning ducts) assorted clamps, saw horses, and several utility knives. Tools that I want to acquire are a good brace and bit with bits, a one man cross cut saw for cutting trees, and wood planes.   
                         
Another power source is air-powered equipment. The bicycle [frame] that runs an alternator could also be used to propel an air compressor. I know that there are drills and sanders, nail guns, and water pumps that are air powered by air. I think that a person could have both air powered and cordless equipment and use the best equipment for the job at hand. As shown in The Colony, having an old lawnmower around could be a power source by removing the lawnmowers blade and putting in a pulley and belt to run an alternator and an air compressor and tank. The lawnmower could provide two power sources, electricity to power cordless and air for air powered equipment. Most lawnmowers will run on Coleman fuel. Coleman fuel has a longer shelf life than standard gasoline. By having a lawnmower that runs on Coleman fuel, and supply of Coleman fuel, and using it to keep your cordless batteries charged up you could extend your supply of other fuels. Also the lawnmower is a simple engine that could be run on wood gasification. Now you have a power source of almost endless power; as long as you have wood you have a power source. [JWR Adds: Coleman fuel is quite expensive per gallon. In my opinion, if your goal is battery charging, the same funds that you'd use to buy a generator and Coleman fuel would be much better spent on photovoltaic panels. Well-sealed ones can remain serviceable for decades, and of course there is no expense for fuel, or worry about running out of it.  Gasification  is not very reliable, and of course you are still dependent on an engine with a limited service life.]                              
                          
Most old hand tools can be salvaged. Old hand saws that have some rust on them can be oiled and scrubbed with steel wool and sharpened and returned to service. The same with old chisels for either wood or metal. Hammer heads can have there handles replaced. Old shovels can have there handles replaced. Same with axes, sledge hammers, picks. This can build a group of tools to use, at the same time saving money. Places to find old tools are Goodwill [thrift stores], pawn shops, and recycling centers.
                          
As long as we are talking about salvage, here is a story from 30 years ago: One Friday while working for my father put me to cleaning up lumber, 2x4s and 2x6s. He gave me an old paint can and told me to save all the nails I pulled from the lumber. This was a large pile of lumber. I remember almost filling the can with 16 and 8 penny nails. Then on Saturday morning he woke me up early for a Saturday and we went to our hog farm. When I got in the truck I saw a couple of saw horses and the can of nails. First thing he put me to doing was straightening out the nails and we worked on the feed room using salvaged lumber and nails. Almost anything can be reused!
                          
I can not tell you what you need for tools. I would think this list is a good starting point; a couple of handsaws, a couple of hammers, set of chisels, brace and bit and drill bits, mechanic's tool set, sledge hammer, framing square, straight edge, a couple of wood planes, cordless tools, a DC charger for the aforementioned cordless tools, and a couple of heavy duty jacks. Of course you'd also need a couple of shovels, pick, post hole digger and gardening tools. I think this would be a good start. I know that not every one will have the needed construction experience to use said tools but each group needs some one that has construction experience, that way you have a lead person on construction or repair/remodel project. Side bar: a great place to pick up hand tools is eBay.
                           
If you do not have construction experience you feel you need then build a library of books on construction. This will give you the basics, but a better solution is to volunteer at Habitat for Humanity. A couple hundred hours spent helping build some one a home will go a long way. If you belong to a church or other place of worship volunteer when a building or remodeling project comes up, as I have. The other way to get experience is to check out your local community college and take a couple of courses in construction.
                            
I remember going to a family reunion and seeing a table that my grandfather built. I was told that he built it with hand tools and that he did not use nails. The table was 80 years old when I looked at it. He did an excellent job. The joints were tight, and the table was in good condition. You could tell it was put together by someone who knew what he was doing. I wonder how much I have built will still be around in 80 years. Having a tool box filled with hand tools and experience with said tools could be vitally important when the electrical power go’s off line. Having other ways to generate electricity will also be important.







From Cheryl: Ignore "Best Before" Dates On Food. (BTW, there is a detailed table with food shelf lives, distinguishing various packaging, in the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course.)

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KAF spotted this: Scots Guards Sniper Kills Taliban Leader with Longest Shot (Something tells me that he wasn't using a 5.56mm)

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The recent mention in the blog about storing coal reminded me to mention that AntiqueStoves.com (one of our advertisers) sells both wood burning and coal burning cookstoves.

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Eric S. mentioned this Popular Mechanics article: Seven Really Nasty Diseases You Can Get From Animals



"Consider it pure joy, my brethren, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith develops perseverance. Perseverance must finish its work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking anything." - James 1:2-4


Thursday, August 13, 2009


Hi Jim, Memsahib,
"Gridbeam" is a building system that's been getting some attention recently among do-it-yourselfers. I've seen references to it on Kevin Kelly's Cool Tools and the Makezine web site. Gridbeam is described as a sort of "Erector Set system for adults". It's simply a length of squared wood, aluminum or steel with precisely drilled holes [at regular intervals] along its length. Holes are drilled in both directions so that they intersect in the beam's middle. Sections are simply cut to desired length and pieced together. Additional pieces can be designed and added on to connect pieces at different angles; otherwise all of your constructions are going to have a very square shape to them.

Although the proponents of the system seem to be suggesting that all sorts of things can be made from it, I see it as being most useful for basic functional constructions and low-tech prototyping.

Pros:
-Can be used for basic furniture, shelving, workbench.
-Prototyping of "ideas" for construction: build something, take it apart, re-size it. When it's put together how you like it, leave it as-is or take measurements to build a more aesthetically pleasing version.
-All pieces can be re-purposed later if needed.
-Design is non-proprietary and patent-unencumbered. The originator of it is simply trying to get the word out. You can take the idea of Gridbeam to any machine or woodworking shop and ask them to make it for you; if you're handy, you can make it yourself.
-Assembly of pieces is fairly simple.

Cons:
-Most of the things you'd make with this aren't going to be especially attractive.

I haven't used this myself at all, so I can't provide any sort of informed review. Take it for what it's worth. A quick web search will show other references to it.

Keep up the good work on the site, and have a nice day. - Brian

JWR Replies: I'm also a fan of grid beam for prototyping. The basics are a stack of grid beam stock, a bucket of nuts and bolts, a socket set, and a Sawzall. (Or a hacksaw if you aren't in a hurry). Just keep in mind that because of the perforations, the lateral (bending) strength of gridbeam is a bit less than that of standard square stock of the same dimension. As I mentioned in the blog last month, the reader-generated KK Cool Tools web site has posted a review of the recent book How to Build with Grid Beam. This echoes my advice on building a very versatile stationary bicycle frame for generators, grain grinders, and even meat grinders. While welding is a great skill that I consider a "must', with grid beam you can fairly rapidly reconfigure prototypes.

Oh, and I'd also add one item to the "Cons" list: Sharp corners and protruding hardware. Be sure to file or grind down any rough edges and the protruding ends of any bolts--especially those that have been shortened!



Hello Jim,
I have recently read your article on nickels. It was very interesting! I have been thinking about the $1.00 coins as a weapon against currency revaluation, here is my theory. If they revalue the U.S. dollar--say they take a 0 zero off. (You take a $10 dollar bill to the bank, and they'll give you one hot off the press $1.00 bill.) If the Feds do not recall the coins, their face value is still $1.00. Am I missing the big picture? Need Help - Kevin in Las Vegas

JWR Replies: In terms of their compactness per dollar you are right, but in terms of their base metal content, the $1 coins are a poor choice. The base metal value of a $1 Sacagawea or Presidential "gold" dollar is only about 5 cents. As I described in my nickels article (which, BTW, was recently re-posted at the LewRockewell.com web site) stockpiling nickels will protect you from both mass inflation and from a possible 10-to-1 or 100-to-1 currency exchange. The base metal value of a US nickel (five cent piece) is presently about $0.04935--nearly its face value. So, say for example that we get into inflationary times, with 20% to 30% annual consumer price inflation. If the spot price of nickel were to then double or triple, a market would soon develop for people willing to pay more for rolls of nickels than their face value. But it would take tremendous inflation before a similar market would develop for "clad" (post-1964 silver-flashed copper token) dimes, quarters or the new "genuine gold tone" dollar coins.

For the details on the base and precious metal value of each type of US coin (including the long-discontinued silver issues), see www.Coinflation.com



Hi;
[In response to the comment on varnish steel food cans,] I have some experience with long term storage and especially underground storage. Since there aren't any books that I could ever find on this subject, trial and error is how you learn (or maybe you get lucky and the subject is covered on SurvivalBlog!).

Metal cans eventually will rust and especially if in an underground shelter or root cellar. Moisture is always in the air, no matter how well your structure is built. This may not be true if you have the means to have something professionally designed and built, for for everyone else, expect some moisture. Sometimes cans will have a tiny dent in them and the edges of that dent will be weak and rust through right there. So glean out any dented cans, and check them periodically, just because they weren't dented when you bought them does not mean they aren't dented now. If one can rusts through the liquids inside will leak out onto other cans and provide sticky moisture that will rust those next.

The best way we found to store cans is inside food grade buckets or barrels. As long as there is no moisture in that bigger container, you will be safe. But, if you put in a dented can and it springs a leak, then all that moisture will be trapped in your bucket and every can in there is doomed if not found fast. Watch those dents. Buckets are also nice because you can grab the handles and move a bunch of cans fast. If you need to, they can be buried and hidden. If buried the metal handles will rust/rot and be ruined, so after digging them up moving them will then be harder.
Plastic totes are worthless. They are too thin and do not have a waterproof seal. When stacked with anything heavy the ones on the bottom will collapse. We stored toilet paper in these and plastic trash cans and ended up with a lot of soggy and worthless toilet paper. No, duct taping the lids on won't avoid this. Don't use totes for anything.

Army surplus medical chests are a gem if you can find them. They split into two [clamshell] sections and will hold a lot of cans (or weapons, gear, etc). They have a big rubber seal to keep them air and water tight. These are great for #10 cans. They are made out of aluminum so they won't rust, but the 4 handles are steel and will rust. If you tar those handles these can be buried for a nice cache. Or you can stack these in a shelter to protect your food or anything. Need to bug out fast? Moving these will be heavy if loaded with food, although not bad for gear, blankets, etc.. These can be moved and dumped into a forest fast. They are OD green so they blend in. There is a scenario in "Patriots" where this would be an obvious advantage. (I don't want to post "spoilers" that would ruin the book for anyone that has not read it yet.)

You can sometimes find large plastic [or fiberglass] crates that are military surplus. These are also [usually] water and air tight, but harder to find. They can be found up to 4'x4'x4' and come in all sizes and shapes. Check these for cracks and splits. Make sure that their rubber gaskets are not torn.

I've had people tell me that they store food in ammo cans. Ammo cans are great for some items, but I would avoid them for food. Some cans have a residue of gun powder [or other chemicals] inside them, and they may have been used by the military to store something else after the ammo was emptied out. A chemical in a can that touches your food or food container and ends up in you could make you sick or worse.

Metal 55 gallon barrels work well, too. Just make sure what used to be in them won't poison you and have them completely cleaned. You want ones with removable lids. They are steel so they may rust after a long time.

Watch for mice and rats, they will wiggle into any shelter you can build. They will chew up all kinds of supplies and may chew through plastic containers. I've never had them chew through buckets or barrels, but they have chewed through plastic totes. Metal medical chests will stop them.

We had metal cans of lantern fuel stored and after about 10 years every can developed a tiny pin hole somewhere. The result was once that pin hole developed, the fuel evaporated out. So while the cans looked fine, some were 1/2 full. No odors from the fuel to warn us.

Batteries should never be left installed in the item you need them for. If they get too old they will leak acid and can destroy a critically needed item. I would store batteries in a way so that if one leaks it won't contaminate all the others. You can try zip lock bags to separate a dozen or so.

If you are considering storing fuel to cook or for heat, consider coal. All oil-based fuels will eventually go bad. Wood rots after awhile (I'm talking long term here), so you can't cut a 10 year supply and have it last. Chainsaws make noise that may attract people and require gas and oil. A chainsaw cut to can be deadly or at a minimum it will take some medical care. But coal is basically a rock. It doesn't go bad, evaporate or require a noisy dangerous saw to produce it. [JWR Adds: But coal should be stored out of the rain to prevent deterioration.] You can buy wood/coal cook stoves and heat stoves from Lehman's in Kidron, Ohio. (They also stock spare parts and know about what they sell so they can answer questions) You can buy as much coal as you can afford and stockpile it. If you want to hide it you could dig a trench, fill it in with coal and bury it. If it's fine sized you might want to line that trench, but if the pieces are big you might not need to. Or you can fill big culvert pipes. Use your imagination.

If you are burying containers you will want to defeat metal detectors. It isn't practical to dig to China with a backhoe to go real deep, someday you want to dig that back up, and then you might only have a rock to scrape the dirt. So your cache may be found unless you can fool the detector. Consider burying your cache in a junk area full of scrap metal. A few junk cars with old pipes, barrels, anything strewn about will help. Bury some metal around as well. Nothing obvious, just a few pieces of junk to discourage people from looking any deeper. Stacks of old pallets, lumber, all kinds of junk can make a good junk pile as a distraction. You could even stash some old tools [hidden above ground or buried just below the surface] to help dig up your cache!

Hopefully this will help someone and save them spoiled supplies. - Don in Ohio





Flagged by KAF: US government to loan Petrobras $10 billion. Note the comments in the article about increasing costs of exploration , and strong competition with China for new oil fields.

Also from KAF: Wish you weren't here: The devastating effects of the new colonialists.

Cousin Al sent this: Soaring deficit may defy forecasts. (A quadrupling budget deficit? Yikes!)

This Jay Taylor "Turning Hard Times Into Good Times" pod cast was linked from the Total Investor news aggregation site: Will Silver Outperform Gold?

Items from The Economatrix:

China's Wen: "The financial crisis is continuing to deepen and spread."

Coming Soon: Second Wave of Depression: Hyperinflation Likely

Trader's Brace for September Collapse


The Bill Is Coming Due (The Mogambo Guru)

The Gifts That Keep on Taking

Energy Prices Slump After Labor Report


Oil Prices Cloud Recovery Hope

Testing Week For US Bond Investors

Fed Buys $6.6 Billion in Treasurys [Monetization leads inevitably to inflation!]

CIT Shares Fall on Bankruptcy Warnings



Witt sent this piece by Victor Riesco: Cash for Clunkers, a Highway to H*ll. Witt's comment: "It’s sad to see the American people being bribed by their own government, and with their own money no less, and spending their savings and burdening themselves with yet more unproductive debt."

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Jerry E. sent this: Peak Oil Latest--Yikes!

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From FG: Teen called 911 from shower during home invasion. Note the mention that teh goblins had an AK and body armor. The threat spirals are spinning up, folks!



"It's amazing that people can't see the theft [of their buying power through currency inflation], and even that so many will argue in favor of deflation, meaning that "the dollar is getting stronger" when that has never taken place over the long run in the last 95 years." - Jason Hommel


Wednesday, August 12, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



I am a retired Marine Corps officer and Naval Aviator (jets and helicopters), commercial airplane and helicopter pilot, and most recently, an aircraft operations manager for a Federal agency.

I graduated from numerous military schools, including the U.S. Army Airborne (“jump”) School, U.S. Navy Divers School, Army helicopter, and Navy advanced jet schools. In addition, I have attended military “survival” courses whose primary focus was generally short-term survival off the land, escape from capture, and recovery from remote areas.  Like most Marine officers, I attended The Basic School, an 8-month school (only five during the Vietnam era – my case), which is still designed to produce a second lieutenant who is trained and motivated to lead a 35-40 man platoon of Marines in combat.  This course covers everything from field sanitation to squad and platoon tactics, artillery and other ordnance delivery, communications, reconnaissance, intelligence, firearms training, and much more.   Later, I attended the Marine Amphibious Warfare School and the Command and Staff College, both follow-on schools and centered upon the academic study of tactics and strategy as they applied to the missions of the Marine Corps.  I flew helicopters offshore in the Gulf of Mexico and across the U.S. I found out first hand how thoroughly corrupted is the federal bureaucracy and the government, in general.  Not a pleasant experience. I’d rather have been flying. I have bachelor's and master's degrees.

As a result, my wife of forty years and I seem to have been moving endlessly from place-to-place.  Nevertheless, I have tried in each place to do what I could to maintain a level of self-sufficiency for my family that varied greatly with locations and personal finances. My intention here is to try to share some of the less-than-perfect ways that I have tried to accomplish that end. 

Only in the last few years, primarily as a result of the political and fiscal situation in the U.S., have I begun reading some of the huge amounts of literature about how one can prepare for serious long-term off-the-grid survival.  I have found that the preparation required to be ready for that contingency seems to be endless.  I do not want to talk about all of those preparations.  Others have done so very well, and besides, I’m not there, yet.  What I would like to do is to talk to those, perhaps like me, who are not true survivalists in the commonly referred-to sense, but who are genuinely concerned about the future of this country, and might desire, like me, to begin to prepare. Perhaps my elementary and simplistic efforts might be of help to someone else who is beginning to think about the subject of preparedness.  There are many scenarios that might require this, but the two that I am thinking most about are economic collapse and electromagnetic pulse (EMP) attack. I’m building small Faraday boxes, but not doing much else for EMP.

My thinking on begins with my own estimation of the basic problems:  shelter, water, food, fuel, and security.  I view these as the most critical needs, whether living in a tent or other outdoor shelter or here in our rural home in West Virginia. Here I have and often take for granted what I have -- shelter, well water, a small stream, a pond, a rain barrel; canned, dried, frozen, and freeze-dried foods; fuel for the generator and portable stoves, kerosene heater and lanterns; factory-made and reloaded ammunition for any one of several firearms.  Edible plant books. Gardening books. Encyclopedia of Country Living-type books. Reloading books. Hunting books. Tracking books. A few novels devoted to the “what ifs” of the future, including Jim Rawles' excellent "Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse", for example.  Books to fill an entire bookcase.  The Boy Scout Field Book sits right there next to the military survival manuals, as do Tom Brown's Field Guides, the The Foxfire Book series, a canning book, field medical books, and quite a few others.

Those are the basic things about which I think. I have been thinking about them for quite a while, in fact, longer than I even realized.  Perhaps I’ve been thinking about them ever since I was a young lad.   For example, my very first “survival book” was the Boy Scout Field Book, the original of which I still have (circa late-1950s edition). It is still a great reference if one is looking for an all-in-one manual for starting fires, making simple shelters, recognizing game tracks, tying knots, and much more.  I note that it is still available on Amazon.com. (It’s probably been scrubbed to favor the politically correct, but don’t know [JWR Adds: Yes, I can confirm that unfortunately it has been made politically correct--with the traditional woodcraft skills showing any injury to innocent and defenseless trees duly expunged. So I advise searching for pre-1970 editions!] ) One does not necessarily need the SAS Survival Handbook or the U.S. Army survival manual. I have them and have read them. They do cover security problems, but then don’t cover other topics.  Alas, there appear to be no “perfect” manuals, and the Boy Scout Field Book is no exception.  But it’s not a bad beginning. And so I was beginning the journey even before I knew that I was. 

I think that my first education in “survival” came at about fourteen. That’s when I first shot a .30-06, an old [Model 19]03 Springfield. It pretty much rattled my cage.  Mostly, my older brother and I used to track and shoot small animals in the deep woods of Missouri as youngsters.  We were “issued” ten rounds of .22 LR ammo by our father, a retired USAF pilot, to be used in a bolt action, single shot, .22 rifle with open sights.  One would be surprised what that meager handful of loose ammunition could do for one’s choice of shots, one’s ability to be patient in waiting for the shot, and for one’s great satisfaction at having brought home six or eight squirrels for the cooking pot, having used just those ten rounds – and sometimes, but not often, less.  My point is that the knowledge of firearms is, in my view, basic to the notion of preparedness and in surviving in the wild. And it need not be exotic or overly complicated in nature.  One can surely attend modern schools that will teach one to double-tap a cardboard target or silhouette at seven yards with a semi-auto pistol, as well as basic and advanced tactical rifle courses, but very basic survival skill with a rifle can be had without much cost if one is committed to learning the skill and if one disciplines oneself. Start with only one round, and work up from there.  As Col. Jeff Cooper used to say, “Only hits count.”  In a purely off-the-grid survival scenario, I can envision that .22 LR rounds would be very precious, indeed.

Consequently, and even though I own handguns and rifles that will shoot .45 ACP, .44 Magnum/.44 Special, .357 Magnum/.38 Special, .380 ACP, .223, .25-06, .270, 7mm-08, .308, .7.62x39, .30-30, .30-06, and .45-70/.457 WWG Magnum (a wildcat), I shoot a .22 rifle and pistol more than all of the others, combined, and normally at least twice a week. And I’m hoarding them, as well as shooting them.  I have the capability to reload all the calibers (except .22 LR/Magnum, of course) above, as well as shotgun ammo in 12 and 20 gauge. I wasn’t really thinking of “survival” when deciding to do this about twenty years ago, but was interested only in having the capability to shoot more, and to do it more cheaply. Yet it appears that much of that ammo could be used for barter. I had never even considered this until reading some of the recent “survival novels.”

My apologies.  I’ve wandered into the weeds here, as I could do forever on my favorite subject.  Suffice it to say that whatever firearm one chooses – and make no mistake, one is necessary in my opinion -- there are all kinds of reasons to choose one over the other, depending on the situation and the person. One must endeavor to shoot it well. Owning a firearm is of almost no consequence, at all, unless it is properly employed.  Personally, I prefer a M1911 .45 ACP pistol and a 7.62 M1A SOCOM, while my wife is comfortable with the milder .38 [S&W] revolver and 20 gauge. pump shotgun.  I won’t even begin to get into the debate over .223 vs .308 and 9mm vs. .45 ACP.  Suffice it to say that in Vietnam I had the opportunity to see the effects of all of these, and I chose for my own security the .308 and .45 ACP.

Having got my favorite subject out of the way, I’ll talk about one that is likely even more important.  Water.  It is amazing how complicated this can be, and how many choices one has to solve this problem.  I have not yet solved it.  I have put up a rain barrel, and plan to get a couple more.  It’s amazing how rapidly a 55 gallon barrel will fill in even a moderate thunderstorm.  I got mine from Aaron’s Rain Barrels. http://www.ne-design.net/. I’ve camo-painted the first one to make it recede into the bushes that surround it.  

We have a very shallow stream down the hill that I need to dam so that it keeps only about a foot-or-two deep pool for gathering some water. It flows into a large pond, of which we own half (The owner of neighboring property owns the other half.).  But that’s over a hundred-yard trek downhill with empty buckets, and the same distance uphill with full ones.  Now, while that is okay for a backup, in my thinking, because I’m going on 63 years, I prefer to have something closer.  So my next “big” purchase will be a Simple Pump that allows one to drop a pump and pipe though one’s existing well casing down to below water level and extract water by means of a hand pump or DC motor attached to a battery which, in turn, will connect to a solar panel.  This is much, much cheaper than a Solar Jack.  At $1,200 for the hand pump capability (I’ll add on the DC and solar later), it’s a bargain, for me. See: http://www.survivalunlimited.com/deepwellpump.htm.  
I’m not recommending it for anyone, yet, as I haven’t got one. It has plenty of good reviews, and I’m willing to try it.  My apologies, but I am just talking about how I, for one, intend to solve my “water problem.” 

I’ve also started collecting clear plastic soda bottles for use in Solar Disinfection (SODIS), see; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_water_disinfection.  I’ve set up a rack for putting out the bottles in a sunny place.  Again, that’s a backup, but I’ll use it.

I have bought three different water filtering devices, the best of which is the Swiss-made, all-stainless Katadyn Pocket Microfilter.  It works wonders in that shallow stream and pond down the hill.. [JWR Adds: The same Katadyn filter model is available from several SurvivalBlog advertisers. They deserve your patronage first, folks!]

With the exception of the Simple Pump, these solutions are relatively cheap and effective, if not producers of great volume.  So far, they are what I’ve come up with.

I won’t go much into the food problem. It isn’t quite as complicated as the water problem.  I’ve either got to have it [stored], grow it, or kill it.  I’ve started storing all kinds of Mountain House freeze dried #10 cans (with expiration date dates in 2034), two-serving meals from Mountain House (expiration dates circa 2016), and numerous grocery store-type canned foods (expiration a couple years), in addition to dried beans, rice, Bisquick (sealed in plastic bags with desiccant inside), salt, sugar (Domino, which are sold in one-pound plastic tubs), olives, peanuts, wheat, etc.  Basically hit-or-miss, so far.  I need to get this “food problem” organized and do it right.  But it’s a start.  I think we’ve got only about a 60-day supply now, for two.

I’ve got two Coleman two-burner stoves.  One is a butane stove, and the other a dual fuel (white gas or unleaded gas), as well as several small backpacking stoves, the best of which is a MSR Whisperlite International, which uses virtually all fuel (unleaded, white gas, kerosene, diesel, and maybe even corn oil).   I was heavily into backpacking when we were stationed in Hawaii in the late 1970s, and still have all the gear.  After having one knee replacement and hedging doing another, I’ll not be backpacking if I can help it.  Nevertheless, I have two bug-out bags with essentials in them, ready to hit the trail if need be.  I’ve saved up and bought two good Wiggy's bags and a couple of his poncho liners.

Concerning backpacking stuff, I can recommend a book that I read back then called The Complete Walker, by Colin Fletcher. I haven’t read it in at least a decade, but its import is such that I remember much of it.  He emphasizes simplicity in gear.  That is to say, don’t pack a tent if you can get by with a tent fly – which you cannot in cold weather. I’ve still got my old three-season tent, but am saving up for a four-season. And he emphasizes: don’t worry about pounds – worry about ounces.  That is to say, if one is packing tea bags, remove the labels from the bags.  Ounces.  Remove all packaging material unless it is absolutely necessary (usually never). Don’t carry a “mess kit,” nor a knife, fork and spoon set.  A spoon will do (I’ve done it) along with a pocket knife. Now I have so many knives of so many types that I can’t remember them.  Personally, I’d go for a multi-tool.  But it’s heavy.  I never used to carry a weapon while backpacking.  Of course, it was (and is) illegal in Hawaii, but I think one would be remiss in not doing so today.  There was so much good advice in that book that helped me in the USMC, if nothing more than when packing my helicopter before a mission, or a car, trailer, or truck to move across the country.  “Think ounces, not pounds.”  I always think about Mr. Fletcher’s advice when I pack.

Anyway, I think I’ve got the camping stove angle covered in spades.  That is, until the fuel runs out.  Same goes for kerosene heater and lanterns (5).  My plan is to pull out our pellet stove and replace it with a free-standing wood stove.  Pellets are nice, but they must be bought, and the price is getting exorbitant, according to my pocket book.  They likely will be non-existent in a crunch. 

I connected a 12,000 Watt/50amp gasoline generator when we moved into this house nine years ago, as I have with every house in which we’ve lived for the last two decades.  I’ve got it wired through a transfer box to the circuit-breaker panel, a job that I did myself. It works, and it’s safe.  The main reasons for having this were to run the 220V[olt AC] well water pump and to run the refrigerator and our free-standing freezer during power outages.  But I’ve got it wired, anyway, to nearly every circuit in the house, except the other 220V appliances – water heater and heat pump.  It is somewhat selectable. That is to say that I can choose which circuits I want to power by engaging or disengaging the switches on the transfer box.  The problem is that it uses gasoline. So in a long-term outage it would soon become useless.  I’ve had the propane gas company come out to estimate what it would cost to get a dedicated 100 gal propane tank for the generator.  It would be about $500, but then, in addition to the 50+ gallons of gasoline, butane tanks, and white gas that I keep stored in a separate outbuilding, it would make a great explosion when hit with a tracer round.

Which brings me to the subject of security.  We live in a split-level home on about ten acres of forest.  The property is surrounded by other similar-sized properties of seemingly like-minded individuals.  I gleamed this because everyone out here shoots.  The sweet sound of gunfire can be heard at times in a full circle.  West Virginia, at least, has still got its priorities straight in this regard.  But I digress. This is a frame house with half of it below ground in front, but framed in back, which faces the forest.  The forest, itself, is a maze of downed pine trees blown over by the wind, interspersed with small saplings, vines and low brush.  Not a likely avenue of approach for anyone but the most determined.  For those who are determined, the downed trees would make excellent cover and concealment.  So I have a security problem to solve there, as well as at the front. 

I’ve started buying rolls of barbed wire and baling wire.  Unfortunately, I do not have access to dynamite, which we used to be able to buy in a hardware store in the 1960s.  We used it back then to blow stumps while clearing the land for our house.  I am thinking of buying a bunch of used railroad ties to build cover in the back; I’ve thought also of bricks and sandbags.  Problem is we’re reaching the point in all of this where the house would begin to look like a fortress, of sorts, to all but the most ignorant observers.  So there’s a line here concerning security versus “normalcy” that I must cross sooner or later.  Inasmuch as my wife is a few years older than I and is on constant medications, I’m afraid that finding a retreat (if we could even afford one) would be out of the question, as access to doctors, hospital and pharmacy are a necessity. Nevertheless I’ve got the bags packed and gear ready to throw into the pickup (Toyota 4x4 – like to have one of those older model American trucks, but I think they are getting rare, at least around here.  And what there are will likely go to the Cash for Clunkers Program….grumble, grumble. What will they think of next?).

So it looks to me as if we are here for the duration of the crisis, or sooner, if they try to take the guns from my cold, dead hands.  Speaking of, I still have to build a cache or two for guns and ammo and a few other necessities. 

And since I’ve more-or-less made that decision (here for the duration), I’ve thought of organizing the apparently gun-loving neighbors.  I’ve begun to buy walkie-talkies, if not field phones and commo wire.  I’ve got solar panels and several batteries (need to get a mega deep cell or two, however) to run the small battery chargers and the CB radio. My shortwave is up and running.

I will have to wait to talk to the neighbors, whom I rarely see, much less know.  I can just imagine the words that would come out of their mouths if I were to mention to them the notion of forming a security “company” and establishing a perimeter.  “That old retired Marine down the road is nuts!”

So that’s what I’ve got to say.  I do hope it at least stimulates some thought for those who are starting out trying to prepare, as I am.  All of this shows me that one “problem” in this “survival” business leads to several more, and they in turn lead to even more problems.  Lots to do. So I’m glad I’m retired.  I’ve got time to think about it.  If I were rich, I could do a lot more and likely in a far away place, but as it is, we do with what we have.   I have to use the lessons taught to every Marine:  Improvise, Adapt, Overcome.  

Long Live America.  Keep the Faith. - “Two Dogs”, Col. USMCR (ret.) in West Virginia



Jim:
One of the easiest ways to quickly go through a roll of quarters, dimes, or halves, is to look at the coins edge on. If any do not have the copper color on the edge then it is probably silver. When you look at a clad coin, you'll notice a bit of copper on the edge. Then take a look at a silver coin and you'll see that it doesn't have the copper color on the edge. This is how I quickly go through rolls of coins.
Enjoy, - KJ

JWR Replies: Thanks for reminding SurvivalBlog readers--especially those of the younger generation--who might not be familiar with that indicator. OBTW, many readers might also not be familiar with the 40% silver half dollars that were minted between 1965 and 1970. These coins are often still found in circulation. It is worth the time to ask for rolls of 50 cent pieces at banks, particularly in small towns. You can also occasionally find "War Nickels" minted between 1942 and 1945--back when there was strategic shortage of nickel. So the US Mint substituted 35% silver!


Dear JWR,
Thank you for publishing the letter of 11 August 2009 regarding pre-1965 silver coinage at retail establishments and your following comments. Our family was the victim of a residential burglary one year ago, at which tie we lost several firearms of practical utility and $2,000 face value of pre-1965 silver coins. (We were visiting family out West, and our own tools were used to cut open a hidden, hardened room. It was divine providence that our house was not destroyed by fire due to the efforts of the thieves.)

We live on the periphery of a small town in central Pennsylvania and until this time, receiving "junk-silver" as change has been al but nonexistent. Since the burglary, I have not only found silver quarters along the road during my morning runs, I have received several silver dimes as change from local merchants. It has been a standing joke that we are receiving our sliver as change. Perhaps there is more truth and less humor to this assertion.

We continue to pray for you, your wife and family. - Michael X.


Mr. Rawles,
JK's article on acquiring pre-1965 silver coins. Isn't taking a silver dollar or 50 cent piece from someone uneducated in it's value the same as stealing? That, and when I read about someone picking up a firearm for a song because their owner doesn't know the value, Boston T. Party's comments [in Boston's Gun Bible] comes to mind. Same thing as cheating someone out of money.
Sincerely, - MK

JWR Replies: The real "cheating" and the original crime happened back in 1964, when the government unconscionably replaced our sound silver currency with debased copper tokens that are just flashed with silver, to make them look somewhat real. Having two types of currency in circulation--one genuine, and one debased--doesn't last long. (See: Gresham's Law.) I estimate that 98% of the silver coinage was promptly and righteously pulled from circulation by the outraged public before the end of 1968. (The debasement prompted the coinage shortage that lasted for three years. during which the various US mints produced a mix of the new "clad" coins and some 90% silver coins.) OBTW, a similar coin shortage just occurred in Argentina, when the citizenry realized that coins would retain some value, while the paper currency would not.

When some of the genuine silver coins are found in bank rolls these days, it is cause for celebration. See, for example, the forum run by coin collectors that obtain rolls of coins from banks to painstakingly sort: Treasurenet's Coin Roll Hunting Forum. These folks call themselves Coin Roll Hunters (CRHs). It is a fun hobby for someone with time on their hands, and good eyes.

If an adult of normal intelligence hands you pre-'65 silver coins for a transaction at face value, then the odds are quite high that they stole them from someone. If a child (or an idiot, or a recent immigrant) does so, then it might be out of ignorance. They deserve a lecture, and need to be sent home to apologize for raiding their family's silver coin hoard without permission. So at the retail level--outside of banking, which is a special case since coins have passed through several hands before being sold to you in rolls--then you are correct. A sale's clerk's role should be that of educator, not a coin gleaner. The individual offering the coin(s) needs to be shown the error of their ways. (Either of their ignorance or more likely their penchant for larceny.) And, for good measure, the lecture should include a bit of history about The Great Clad Coin Scam of 1964. Oh, and by the way, we would not be faced with the ethical dilemma of taking pre-1965 silver coins from anyone at face value and substituting debased coins if it were not for the grand larceny committed by our elected representatives 45 years ago.

In retrospect, we should have had a revolt in this nation in 1964-1965, against the evildoers in Washington, DC who effectively robbed us, so thoroughly. They should have been tarred and feathered.

When inflation re-emerges in the next few years (as the FedGov monetizes its way out their current predicament), I expect commodities prices to start to gallop (in Dollar terms.) This will make some US coins--most notably nickels and pre-1982 pennies--worth far more than their face value. Once they get past four times their face value, the Generally Dumb Public (GDP) will catch on, and they will disappear from circulation. My advice to SurvivalBlog readers: Panic now, and beat the rush. See my static page: "Mass Inflation Ahead--Save Your Nickels!", for details.







Jim H. sent us this: Three-in-one oven could ease energy needs in developing world

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This thread over at the often-wacky Above Top Secret forum is a must read: An event at my grocery store. This describes the chaos caused by a minor power and data glitch that caused credit card and WIC payment terminals to go down. And then the store's ATM ("cash machine") went down... Keep in mind that this was just a brief interruption at one grocery store. Extrapolate from this small event for a more serious, widespread situation, where the power grids go down. "Katie, bar the door!"

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KAF forwarded this New York Times op-ed piece on the tomato blight: You Say Tomato, I Say Agricultural Disaster

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Doctors Say Hospital Surge Capacity has Worsened



"When you're safe at home you wish you were having an adventure;
when you're having an adventure you wish you were safe at home."
- Thornton Wilder


Tuesday, August 11, 2009


Don't miss out on Safecastle's current "Before the Fall" sale. At the core of the sale is a Mountain House three-case kit (18 of the big #10 size cans) that is a quick way to add a variety of high-quality freeze-dried foods to a food storage program. These cans have a shelf life of 30+ years. With a qualifying purchase of at least one of these kits, Safecastle offers four add-on packages at 33% off. As always, everything ships free to the lower 48 States. This offer is good for both Safecastle Royal buyer's club members and non-members.



A brief background of myself. I am an Telecommunications Engineer, I served three years in the Cuban army as an Engineer in several units (it was mandatory unless you were integrated with the system, in which case you will get a better civilian job). After I served my time they did not want to release me (basically no one wants to stay unless you are willing to do their bidding) so they offered 2 years to a very harsh unit that stays in the mountains for months end ready to be sent anywhere, or stay for 20 years in very comfortable position as an Engineer, I sucked up the two years (30 months
actually) and then left and never again worked for the government, but I was walking a very fine line. I left the country illegally. They would never let me go, everybody needs permission to leave the country. This was more than 15 years ago and this is the first time that I have talked about it freely with someone outside my very close circle of family and friends. Please do not mention my surname.

The government controls everything, I mean everything, from health, to communications, from commerce to defense. When government controls everything there is absolutely nothing you can do. They determine what is legal and sometimes they let you get away with it, as long as you do not mess with the regime. They can take you to jail for anything because as I said everything is illegal. You cannot legally sell a house, only cars that were in the country before 1959 can be sold legally, [Owning a] DirecTV [satellite television receiver] is illegal. The list goes on and on.

In order to survive you must depend on the government or go black market. There is something called the Comite de Defensa de la Revolucion (CDR), basically is an organization at community block level that monitors everything that happens and reports to the government, it is completely volunteer, but it tells you how low citizens will go.

Electrical Power is obviously controlled by the government, and they impose restrictions so you will have times that power will come on for only a few hours a day, people have converters because generators are hard to get and even harder to get gas for them (it is expensive, a gallon goes for about 8 dollars a gallon last time I heard), to use the converter you hide in a room to watch some TV, have a fan for the heat and that's it. You must try to hide, as much as you can, the things that you have, because you might get robbed. Being robbed at home is nothing new, you try to be as modest
as you can--otherwise you will become a target, by thieves or the government if you are getting too out of control.

Water is also government controlled, it does the same as with the electrical power, you can go days without water, so every house has water tanks to store water, even in buildings people will have water tanks in the bathroom. Drinking water always needs to be boiled.

People will raise pigs in a bathtub in the bathroom or if you are lucky to have a small backyard and someone to watch over it because it will be stolen. Pig will give meat and the fat you need to cook.

People that live in the countryside can raise animals and food, they can sell it under government supervision, they cannot become wealthy because government will intervene and accuse them of "exploiting" others.

It is illegal to kill a cow or a horse, as the government has a strict control. [If you slaughter one without prior approval and are caught,] you will serve the same time as if you killed a human being. People will slaughter a cow and dispose of it in two hours and "disappear" the remains by burning it with car tires because it burns very hot. And then you have to be careful how to transport [the meat] because they will have checkpoints. They can stop you anywhere, anytime for any reason and ask to search your vehicle.

You have to be extremely careful on who you trust, because they could be a government informer. (Did you see how our government is asking [their allies] to report when they see something "fishy" about [opposition to socialized] healthcare? That scares the h*** out of me.)

Not everyone can move to the countryside because the government controls that, they control movement within the country, you just can't pick up your stuff and decide to move, so you have to make a living where you are. In the countryside you'll have more food but they will cut electrical power more often. I used to install alarms (on my own, I refused to work for the government) for farmers that had pigs, pigs are raised in jail-like cages to avoid thievery, so I would install an alarm with battery backup because they had so much power shortages.

It goes without saying that [privately-owned] guns are illegal.

I just wanted to give an idea about how people live under a [total] government-controlled country. They will slowly take away your liberties and you will find out one day that you have nothing. And your fellow citizens will go as low as they can to survive. Government would threaten their family and force you to do what they say. This is always under the [mantle of] "we are doing it for the benefit of the majority, and only because we are in a crisis", but there is always a crisis.

They will say that you do not want to work for the improvement of the country, that you are against your people, they will make things up, and suddenly you will become a pariah. Does it sound familiar "... these mobs against health care are destroying the democratic process..." Next it will be "they are organized by the enemies of democracy" and suddenly "we need to eliminate this threats to our democracy".

Never think it cannot happen [here in the United States]. Sincerely, - Ignacio



Greetings!

I have an idea that I have been wanting the patriot survival community to consider. Here it is:

Basically we are able to go without food for much longer than most people know. This is not true with water to be sure. A normal, reasonably healthy human body is easily capable of going three to six weeks on very, very little nutrition and remain completely mentally alert and even physically active. During a prolonged fast you will not be able to pick up as much furniture as normal but you may easily be able to walk for 100 miles!

The biggest concern with fasting is that it not begin too abruptly. Most trouble comes from toxic reactions not lack of nutrients. Its better to reduce junk foods, sweets, red meat and unnecessary drugs & medications before embarking on a serious fast. A series of single-day or two and three day fasts are rejuvenating like nothing imaginable! Juice fasts and broth fasts and even solid, bland diet (rice & red lentils) are intermediate steps. Health food stores often have written material on fasting techniques.

Fasting is very healthy and has an unmistakable spiritual side to it as well. It increases mental health and will power. It is an excellent occasion to practice prayer, meditation and all sorts of mental work. Benjamin Franklin, for one, extolled the virtues of keeping the mind full and the bowels empty. This is all in the preparatory phase while you are teaching yourself how to fast, how your body reacts, how your mind reacts, what to make of any "hunger pains" and in general learning that you don't need to consume all you are accustomed to. Watch your will power grow!

Once you are "hardened off" and experienced in "coming closer to your own inner nature" (you now know how to consume your own substance without cutting off an arm or leg to try to keep the stomach full) you should wax serene in circumstances where others may easily fall prey to panic. In cases of stand off, siege, emergency or just plain prolonged lean rations you can totally, effortlessly and fearlessly rise above the circumstances.

I can tell you of how it has worked for me, in Hurricane Andrew for example, where people rioted or scuffled needlessly over ice. But I had not intended to write so much. I just wanted to get the idea across. Best Regards, - WL

JWR Replies: Those unaccustomed to fasting should first consult their doctor for a checkup. Your tolerance for fasting will vary greatly, depending on your diet, your body type (fat reserves), your blood sugar chemistry, and your activity level. Rather than water fasting--which can be debilitating and precipitate some acute health problems--I recommend occasional juice fasting, to maintain your electrolyte and blood sugar balance. My general advice is to build up to fasting gradually, while very carefully watching for adverse reactions, such as dizziness, confusion, or hallucinations. Even someone with regular fasting experience should never fast more than 36 hours while living alone. There must be someone there to watch for signs of distress or incipient syncope (fainting). Fasting can be beneficial, but as with anything else, when done to excess, it can be harmful.



Hello James,

I've been an avid reader of Survivalblog for two years now. I have also read and passed along "Patriots" when I bought it on Amazon, during the Book Bomb event in April. I also purchased the"Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course a couple of years ago. I'm prepping even as I'm typing this.

During this economic downturn starting in the last year or so, the corporation I work for has demanded no more overtime, cut back on the company match for our 401k, and since no one is buying anything, my sales commissions have gone to almost $0.

To try to make up for lost income, I got a part time job (24 or so hours per week) working at a liquor store behind the counter. This store is located in a more or less seedy part of town. We are surrounded by Section 8 housing, with a 7-11 [convenience store] next door. This location makes for quite a mix of customers. The store owner is of foreign origin, and does not distinguish the difference between a silver coin and a paper dollar.

In these times of rising unemployment, higher gas, food, and general living prices, our customers have resorted to digging in the sofa, robbing their child's piggy bank, and got into the family stash of money. Some of this money is spent at the store in the form of junk silver coins. For an example, a woman came in with a fine condition silver dollar (worth $17.00 at the time), and 29 pennies to buy a 24 oz. [bottle of] beer. I immediately put a paper dollar in the register, and pocketed the coin. Since then, I have found pre-1965 quarters, dimes, and several wheat pennies. Just yesterday, a man came in and paid with three pre-1965 half dollars.

I just wanted to make people aware that there is a lot of junk sliver out there, and that people are starting to spend it. They either do not know the value of what they have, or they just don't care.

If you are in the retail trade, keep your eyes open for silver coins. They have become unmistakable to me in my short time of looking. They make a totally different sound when they hit the counter, and they also "look" different. Not so much the shiny "new" coin look, but almost a dull silver finish. I will continue to collect the junk silver for as long as I'm working there.

Keep up the good work, and the writing. My prayers are with you and the Memsahib.

Regards, - JK in Colorado

JWR Replies: Readers should be advised that a large percentage of the silver coinage found in high crime areas has re-entered circulation because it is being spent by drug addicts that have conducted residential burglaries. Unless they are stupid enough to "spend" a numismatic coin that is still encapsulated in a serialized slab, stolen coins are essentially untraceable. Needless to say, retail merchants should avoid "fencing" stolen items.





From Theo M.: Deficit grew by $181 billion in July

Chris H. flagged this: No Longer Jobless, But Still Struggling

Frequent contributor Karen H. kindly sent several items:

Fed Focusing on Real-Estate Recession "The collapse in commercial real estate is preventing Federal Reserve Chairman Ben S. Bernanke from declaring the economy and financial markets are healed." (JWR has predicted this for quite some time.)

Treasurers' Fear of Next Credit Freeze Shown in Cash Hoarding “Cash is king,” said Paul Kasriel, the chief economist at Northern Trust Corp. in Chicago. “Businesses are in survival mode right now.”

Minneapolis Federal Reserve Inflation Calculator (see the upper right hand corner of their web page)

States End Up Losers in Gambling Pullback (one more reason we will all be seeing a tax increase)

Vacancies Suppress Southern California Recovery

Unemployment Among Teenagers Remains Stubbornly High

U.S. banks to make $38 Billion from overdraft fees

Krugman says world avoided second Great Depression "Still, recovery was likely to be "disappointing" as government spending wasn't sustainable in the long-run and unemployment rate still lagging behind, he told a two-day world capital markets conference here."



I was doing some research on sunspot cycles (whilst pondering whether it would be worthwhile to buy some more ham radio gear to work the 40 and 80 meter bands), and I stumbled across this web page from Finland: Timo Niroma: One possible explanation for the cyclicity in the Sun. Part 5 talks about possible climate change. It would be incredibly ironic if this new century were to be a Little Ice Age rather than the much-heralded Global Warming that Al Gore et al have been shouting about. Needless to say, the climate change jury is still out, and there are still huge unresolved differences of opinion. I believe that it is prudent to be ready for all eventualities, regardless. One contingency plan would be to develop the readiness and willingness to move thousands of miles, if there is a pronounced climate change in your lifetime.

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William C. sent me the link to this interesting page: Pedal Powered Generator.

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KAF spotted this in The Times Online: Food crisis could force wartime rations and vegetarian diet on Britons

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Our friend Tamara has some commentary on beneficent distribution of farm produce. For those who will be farming in the unfolding depression: Remember to grow an extra row for the gleaners. Charity is our duty!



"My father sent my mother a revolver as a gift, which for her was the symbol of what any young girl wants in a marriage, this was for her the means to stay alive, to kill herself or to die fighting." - Assaela Bielski, as quoted in the book Defiance: The Bielski Partisans by Nechama Tec.


Monday, August 10, 2009


We've reached the milestone of 10 million unique visits for SurvivalBlog. When I first set up the blog visits counter in 2005, I thought that it would take a decade or two before we'd ever fill up all the places in an eight digit counter. My, was I wrong! Thanks for making this the world's most popular blog on survival and preparedness topics. We get more traffic than all the smaller survival and preparedness blogs, combined. Please keep spreading the word. A link to SurvivalBlog in your blog or web page would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

This article might at first glance appear to be of no interest to non-hunters or even a bit off-topic for the blog. But consider this: The same mammalian physiology principles apply to both four-legged and two-legged lead recipients. And remember: The two-legged ones shoot back, so you'll want to incapacitate your target as quickly as possible.



The following is based on over 25 years making a living as a licensed guide in Alaska and as a professional hunter in Africa. Between clients shooting game and cull hunts I have personally seen over 7,000 big game (250 lbs or more) animals die from gunshots. I have formed my opinions on terminal ballistics from this experience

The Biggest Myth that I hear is faster projectiles (Velocity) kills better than slow ones. As long as the projectile stays above supersonic it will kill big game effectively with a properly constructed bullet.

Second Biggest Myth is that more foot-pounds of energy = better killing/stopping power. Foot pounds of energy is just a mathematical figure and has very little to do with stopping or killing power.

Bullet diameters and bullet design has more to do with killing/stopping power than speed. The best hunting bullets are the ones that perform over the widest range of velocities, leave the largest permanent wound channel, will not brake apart when they hit heavy bone and will consistently exit the animal on a broadside shot.

On big game larger heavier bullets kill better than smaller faster ones.
At close range, a flat-nosed 540 grain bullet fired from a .45-70 at 1,550 FPS has far more stopping/ killing power than any of the .30, .338 or .375 magnum. But at the same time a projectile with a flat trajectories is easer to make good hits at longer ranges than the slow moving 540 grain slug from the .45-70.

Faster bullets do give better trajectory and extend the range we can make good hits at. A good hit with a smaller caliber is always better than a poor hit with a larger caliber

For consistent kills on big game, the larger caliber bullet the better and the heaviest bullet for a given caliber will have the best knock down power.

For the first third of my guiding career I thought that perfect bullet performance was to find the bullet in the hide on the far side. That way all the energy has been absorb by the animal. . Over the years I changed my opinion for the following reasons

1. Exit wounds leave a lot better blood trail.

2. Granted, most shots taken are broadside but if a bullet cannot punch through an animal with a broadside shot and exit the animal then it does not have enough penetration to go end to end on an animal. You do not always get broadside shots while hunting and rarely get a broadside shot on a charging or fleeing critter.

3. I want my bullets to be able to break heavy bone and continue to penetrate deeply afterwards.

4. I no longer believe that it is the energy that kills but the size of the wound channel.

There is no best bullet (or caliber) for hunting. Even the best designed bullet will occasionally fail to do the job it is intended to do, Poorly made or poorly designed bullets will conversely give spectacular killing results from time to time.

It is the trend that is important in bullets. From my point of view a half dozen cases of good or poor bullet performance is not much of a trend. Around a hundred is what I want to see. I once witnessed a Kudu (elk-sized African Antelope) shot at 40 yards with a .416 using a 400 grain swift a frame. The well placed bullet hit the Kudu broadside. It ran off and we had to track it for two days. The shot placement was good the cartridge and bullet excellent but it still failed. The same client shot a cape buff with all the same conditions/shot placement and the buff fell over dead with the one shot. The bullet exited after breaking the shoulder. Neither of these isolated cases proves anything.

All bullets are a compromise: No Spire point bullet will ever have as good of terminal ballistics as a flat meplat bullet and no flat nosed bullet has as good of arrow dynamics as a spire point.

The best killing and the best knock down bullets have a large flat nose with a sharp edge (large meplat). Elmer Keith and J.D. Jones have both promoted this concept with handgun bullets. The best example for a rifle is Randy Garrett’s 540 Grain .45-caliber bullet loaded in his .45-70+P ammo. Up close this round has more stopping power than conventional hunting bullets shot from the .458 Winchester Magnum. Now the Garrett 540 grain bullet is fantastic at close range but not what I would recommend for long range situations and it will not feed reliably in most bolt actions. Check out the Garrett ammo web site, read the data how his .45-70 ammo out-penetrates the .458 Winchester.

I have had clients make clean kills on big game using every thing from .223 to .50 but the best consistency for clean kills was with large [diameter] heavy projectiles. Most of my career I used one of three calibers: 308 Winchester, .375 H&H and .470 [Nitro Express]. For cull hunts and wolf hunting I used .308. Every 7.62mm diameter bullet can kill. Military ball [aka full metal jacket (FMJ)] was supplied for most cull hunts. Ball is the worst, but it works in a pinch. The best killing bullets I found in .308 caliber was the [Nosler] Fail Safe and Barnes X bullet. There other very good bullets but the Barnes and Fail Safe stand out in my mind.

For guiding in Alaska and for African plains game I used 375 H&H. The .375 diameter 300-grain Sierra is a wonderfully accurate bullet but at close range it comes apart and sheds it’s jacket fairly often so I do not recommend it for big Bear, Cape Buffalo, Hippo or Rhino. The Barnes, Nosler partition, Swift A-frame and Trophy Bonded are all wonderful .375 projectiles and usually hold together at close range. I would use any of the 4 and pick the one that shoots the best in your particular rifle.

I am not a fan of the .375 for Cape Buffalo, Hippo or Rhino. The .416 or .458 with the Barnes X or trophy bonded seems to be the most consistent killer at all ranges on the thick skinned game. A good .470 or .500 double rifle is best for the big stuff but not many can justify spending $10,000+ for a double rifle and at least $10 per round of ammo.

Enough of my rambling this is the bottom line. Shot Placement is the Single Most Important Factor.
For big game use the largest caliber with the heaviest bullet that you can shoot accurately. I would rather a client show up on a Grizzly hunt with a 30-06 that he can shoot well than a have him bring a .375 that he does not shoot accurately. Use premium hunting bullets--not target bullets--for big game. - Old Dog in Alaska



Hello James and Memsahib!
Greetings and prayers for you both. In the Saturday August 8th blog there was a report of damage to underground storage food, with cans rusting.

When we traveled for years on our sailboat we varnished our canned goods to prevent rusting. We removed the labels, wrote the contents of the can with a permanent marker, then varnished each can. We never had a can rust with this protection. Our cans were exposed to salt air and an occasional dousing from bilge water.
B.B. thought that waxing his cans would help. That may work but any contact against the wax may remove some protection and defeat the purpose.
We read your blog daily and have learned much. "Patriots" is being read by all family members and we are praying for your bride.
With warm regards, - Ray & Vickie



GG flagged this: Banks still getting sicker; The economy may have turned, but banks will be cleaning up after their lending mistakes for years. Several big banks may already be doomed to fail.

Also from GG: Bank of England surprises markets with move to increase 'printing money' plan

This was linked at the excellent news aggregation blog Total Investor blog: ‘Lost Couple of Decades’ Looming for U.S. Economy: Chart of Day

Several SurvivalBloggers sent us this: Obama announces $2.4 billion grant for electric vehicles

Items from The Economatrix:

Audio Clip: Unemployment Decline "A Little Bit Misleading" Analyst says "people have withdrawn because they are discouraged"

Entering The Greatest Depression In History
"On May 13, 2009, Celente released a Trend Alert, reporting that, “The biggest financial bubble in history is being inflated in plain sight,” and that, “This is the Mother of All Bubbles, and when it explodes [...] it will signal the end to the boom/bust cycle that has characterized economic activity throughout the developed world.”

Iceland: Economic Lessons Learned From the Meltdown


Rich Dad, Underwater Dad: 21 Million Homeowners With Negative Equity Or No Equity In Their Homes


Hot and Cold of Economic Winter (The Mogambo Guru)

Obama Says US Economy Saved from Catastrophe [JWR's comment: Don't spoil the moment by telling him about the next tidal wave of foreclosures.]

Gold Slips on Stronger Dollar, Other Metals Rise

US Labor Dept. Shows 70% of American Industries Are Cutting Jobs

Job Loss Recovery May Take "Several" Years


California Won't Accept its Own IOUs



F.G. spotted this bit of inspiration for SurvivalBlog's older readers: Never Too Old: The Story of Captain Samuel Whittemore. (Who went to war at age 80.)

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Do you remember my comments back in May, on the "Three K" depression-proof jobs? This Fox News article confirms it: Now Hiring: Everywhere You Didn't Want to Work

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The recent much-publicized dehydration death of a child in Death Valley, California, prompted several SurvivalBlog readers to comment. The consensus on vehicular off-pavement travel in desert country is to over-prepare: Carry two spare mounted tires, extra fuel, sleeping bags, a full array of pioneer tools, and a couple of five-gallon water cans. Also, do not rely on GPS. Gadgets are not a replacement for common sense and map-reading skills!

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Since SurvivalBlog's readership is international, I don't focus much on politics, except for issues that relate to preparedness, such as civilian disarmament ("gun control" and edged weapons laws.) But there is a noteworthy movement in the United States that is an outgrowth of the "Tea Party" protests, as described by the Wall Street Journal: Nationwide Fury: A Town Hall Protest In Maryland. And here is similar Salon article: Two Town Hall Meetings Turn Into Near Riots.



"I told a reporter here a while back--young girl, seemed nice enough, she was just tryin' to be a reporter. She said: 'Sheriff how come you let crime get so out of hand in your county?' Sounded like a fair question. Anyway I told her, I said: Any time you quit hearing 'Sir' and 'Ma'am' the end is pretty much in sight." - Tommy Lee Jones as Terrell County Texas Sheriff Ed Tom Bell, from the movie No Country for Old Men, 2005 (originally written by Cormack McCarthy)


Sunday, August 9, 2009


Today we present a guest article from my mentor, Dr. Gary North. It was Gary that first inspired me to launch SurvivalBlog. I highly recommend subscribing to his free e-newsletter, Reality Check.



"If it ain't broke, don't fix it." -- Burt Lance

"If it is broke, don't admit it before you absolutely must, and then blame it on events that no one could have foreseen." -- [Gary North's] universal law of bureaucracy

Burt Lance was briefly the head of the Office of Management and Budget under Jimmy Carter. He was a Good Old Boy from the banking world of Georgia. A William Safire piece, "Broken Lance," created enough bad publicity to persuade Lance to retire in September 1977. The article won Safire a Pulitzer Price.

Lance's aphorism, taken from the South, has been with us ever since.

I made up the second aphorism. It is based on my 40+ years of studying government bureaucracies.

The FDIC adheres to the second rule with remarkable tenacity. It closes no banks until Friday afternoon. This ensures that there will not be a run on the bank.

BANK RUNS

A bank run today is not the old-fashioned kind that we see every Christmas season when we watch "It's a Wonderful Life." That was a pre-FDIC bank run. A bank run took place in the Great Depression when depositors, who had been promised payment in currency on demand, exercised their contractual rights. The banks were unable to fulfill their contractual obligations because they had loaned out the
deposits. The deposits were short-term. The loans were longer-term.

Longest of all for banks were home mortgages: five years with 50% down. Longest of all were home loans made by Building & Loans, what we called Savings & Loans until the crisis of the mid-1980's forced them to become banks.

"Borrowed short and lent long." That was Jimmy Stewart's problem in the movie.

Potter ran a solvent bank. He had not made long-term loans. The bank could cash in his short-term loans and pay its depositors. It could meet its contractual obligations.

Wicked, mean Potter!

In contrast was the lovable George Bailey. His institution had made long-term loans. It stayed solvent during a bank run only because (1) Bailey gave up his $2,000 honeymoon [savings] money (about $20,000 in today's money); and (2) the bank run ended at 6 p.m. The bank run did not start up again the next day. That wasn't the work of Clarence, the wingless angel. That was the work of Frank Capra's screenwriters.

Over 6,000 small banks went bankrupt, 1930-33. The FDIC was created in 1934 to prevent that kind of bank run. Its presence calmed depositors, who knew that a government- chartered institution insured their accounts.

The FDIC eliminated the old-fashioned bank run. It replaced it with the modern bank run. This is the type of run we see every Friday afternoon.

This run does not involve depositors going to a suspect bank's ATM and pulling out currency. No one uses that much currency in conventional markets -- only in black markets, Latino men on the street corner markets, and gun shows.

Instead, they send a bank wire draft to make a deposit in a different bank. Or they write a check to a different bank and open an account.

When the money is deducted from the first bank, this reduced its liabilities. This must be balanced by an equal reduction of its assets. But a bank that is in trouble has illiquid assets. It must sell these at a loss. The net worth of the bank falls. The capitalized value of the bank falls. By law, the FDIC must intervene to shut down the bank when the solvency of the bank is threatened.

This law is not being obeyed. Why not?

"If it is broke, don't admit it before you absolutely must, and then blame it on events that no one could have foreseen."

Why does the FDIC wait until Friday afternoon to announce that a bank has been closed by the FDIC. To make the transfer of ownership legal by Monday morning, when it opens for business. "Under new management" means "you don't have to send your money elsewhere." This reduces fear.

If the FDIC closed a bank on Monday, before it had lined up a buyer, there would be a run on the bank all week. Depositors would shift their funds elsewhere. The FDIC would still be left holding the bag. The bag would have lots more IOUs to depositors by the end of the week. It is a bag filled with red ink.

The FDIC is liable for the deposits. The more pulled deposits, the lower the capitalized value of the bank. This means the FDIC is on the hook for more money. It wanted an outside bank to buy these liabilities and assets. If the liabilities must be covered by the FDIC, the FDIC must sell its assets.

It has less than $12 billion in assets remaining. It had $52.4 billion in 2007.

The following letter is posted on the FDIC's web site. It is from an unidentified banker in Alabama. Here, we read the following:

If the public were to understand that the FDIC's deposit insurance fund was at or near the point of depletion there would be a massive run on every bank in the country and the any remaining stability in the financial industry would be gone. This would likely result in the government having to take over more of these failed institutions and eventually having to guarantee all deposits thus resulting in a nationalized
banking system, which I 100% opposed.

If the FDIC posts a letter like this on its web site, then I conclude that the FDIC takes seriously this scenario.

The FDIC has a FAQ list on its site. The list does not include these questions, which I guess are not frequently asked:

How much money does the FDIC have in reserve?

How much money in commercial bank deposits does
this reserve base insure?

Where does the FDIC invest its assets?

Who insures these assets?

At the end of 2008, its annual report revealed that reserves were down to $17.2 billion (Fund balance -- ending). That was down from $52.4 billion at the end of 2007.

Beginning in January 2009, 69 banks have failed. The list is here. [JWR Adds: Since Gary wrote this article last week, the tally of failed banks for 2009 has increased to 72.]

The general estimate is that the FDIC's reserves are around $12 billion. They were at $13 billion in March. The ratio of FDIC reserves to banks assets covered was 0.27%, or 27 cents for every $100 in bank deposits.

The FDIC keeps its [so-called] reserves in short-term U.S. Treasury debt. So, every time it sells T-bills, the government must find a buyer, presumably in the private sector. The FDIC has access to money only by moving T-bills out of the government sector and into the private sector.

If there are no buyers, the Federal Reserve will buy the T-bills. So, the Federal Reserve System is the ultimate insurer of the banking system. How can it do this? By creating money out of nothing.


DELAYING THE ANNOUNCEMENT

The FDIC has an incentive to delay the announcement of another bank failure. If the bank can somehow dig its way out of its crisis, the FDIC conserves its reserves.

In March of 2009 Senator Dodd introduced a bill into the Senate, S. 541. If passed, it will grant the FDIC a $500 billion line of credit. It has not been debated in the Senate or the House. Why not? Publicity.

"If it is broke, don't admit it before you absolutely must, and then blame it on events that no one could have foreseen."

The FDIC is delaying the announcement of its takeover of three regional banks whose liabilities could deplete the FDIC's reserves. Karl Denninger posted a revealing report on his site on August 2. It considered the situation facing these three banks. Two of them have reported negative Tier-1 Ratios. This means that they have a negative ratio of assets versus liabilities. They are legally bankrupt.

The third bank needs a $500 million infusion of private capital, plus another $500 million from the Federal government. If this bank goes under, it will be the sixth largest bank failure, by assets, in U.S. history.

It has $20 billion in assets. How much money might the FDIC be forced to raise by selling its own assets if this bank goes under? In the case of Florida's BankUnited, which had $12.8 billion in assets, the FDIC had to pony up almost $5 billion. That was a loss of 40% of assets, Denninger points out. Yet the bank showed nothing like this loss until it was shut down. Neither did IndyMac.

The FDIC has not closed any of the three banks. By law, it must take Protective Corrective Action, Denninger says. It hasn't.

These three banks are regional banks, not small local banks whose losses the FDIC can afford to absorb without much publicity on a Friday afternoon.

 

PAR FOR THE GOVERNMENT'S COURSE

Why did the other busted banks suffer such enormous percentage losses when the banks' accountants revealed nothing like this? Denninger offers a cogent explanation.

An enormous number of banks are holding loans at or close to "par" that really aren't. They're holding mortgages at massively-inflated values, even on defaulted properties, and this is why you
are not seeing more foreclosure sales - that is, why inventory is being held back. If they sell it the accountants will force recognition of the loss, which will render them instantly insolvent, but so long as they "extend and pretend" they are marking these loans way, way above recovery value. The upshot of this is that these firms' balance sheet claims on asset values are massively inflated, regulators know it, and
they're intentionally ignoring it.

If this is true, which I think it is, then the continuing crisis in housing will pressure the banks even more. The suggestion that the crisis is over ignores the looming losses from defaults on re-sets of Alt-A mortgages and Option ARM mortgages. Over he next two years, they will rival the losses inflicted on lenders by subprime mortgages. The chart is here.

Denninger's conclusion seems sensible to me.

The claim of banking sector health and "successful rescue by Treasury and The Fed" is in fact false. No such thing has occurred. What's going on here is nothing more or less than intentional false claims of asset "valuation", which is repeatedly exposed when the FDIC is finally forced to seize institutions, exposing the lies. Then, suddenly, 20, 30, even 40% losses on alleged "asset books" come out into the
light and the taxpayer eats them.

The banks are allowed to carry these dead and dying assets on their books at par value. This is par for the course -- the government's course.

[Like Denninger], I believe the FDIC is broke and knows it; that under the law they should have seized these three banks (and many dozens more, including some really big ones) some time ago, but doing so will force them to tap the Treasury "emergency" credit line. They're well-aware that this could instill quite a bit of panic in the public (never mind Congress!); as such they, along with [the Office of Thrift Supervision] OTS and [Office of the Comptroller of the Currency] OCC are conspiring to (once again) hide the truth and pray for an economic recovery before they are forced to act as the law demanded months or even years ago!

This policy of delay and pray is pushing up the stock market. He pointed out that insider sales by corporate executives are higher today than an any time since late 2007. They know what is going on inside their own firms.

CONCLUSIONS

When banks refuse to sell empty foreclosed houses, the houses deteriorate. The bankers delay and pray, hoping the housing market will turn back up. They don't want to list these properties as losses. They are allowed to delay such a listing until the properties are sold.

Empty houses deteriorate fast: weather, squatters, and vandals. This is why private property insurance firms revoke property damage insurance after 30 days of vacancy.

These capital losses are mounting, thereby lowering the value of the loans' collateral. These are hidden losses. The lenders' books do not record these losses.

The longer banks delay sales of foreclosed houses, the greater the capital losses for these banks.

The longer the FDIC refuses to close these banks and get these properties sold, the larger the losses the FDIC will suffer when it finally closes the banks.

The longer these empty houses are not sold, the longer this sword of Damocles hangs over the residential real estate market. This delays the recovery: too much inventory.

This "shadow inventory" is not reported to any official institution. No one knows how large it is nationally. All that investors know is that it is large, and it will get larger.

Delay and pray will fail. But no government official will lose his or her job when the day of reckoning comes.

Delay and pray will therefore continue.

"If it is broke, don't admit it before you absolutely must, and then blame it on events that no one could have foreseen."



From GG:The FDIC is in Trouble. (Only 2/10ths of one cent in reserves left available for each dollar of deposits.)

Karen H. sent this: Recovery "not in sight" says BMW

Also from GG: U.K. Royal Mint Doubles Gold Output as Demand Swells

Greg C. found this one: Regulators close 3 banks in Florida, Oregon; total 72 “Bank failures have cascaded as the economy soured and loan losses soared, sapping billions of dollars out of the deposit insurance fund. It now stands at its lowest level since 1993, $13 billion as of the first quarter.”

Also from Karen H.: Crude Oil May Climb to $95 in Early 2010

Items from The Economatrix:

Job Horrors (The Mogambo Guru)

Obama Sends Stimulus Funds Overseas

Economist Says Recession is Over. (Don't hold your breath.)

Cisco Cautious as Sales Fall 18% Predicting another drop in revenue

Banks Line Up for Second Round of TARP

Old Banks, New Lending Tricks

Rolling the Dice on AIG



Eric S. recommends the following story from PhysOrg.com: UK conservation agency launches plastic beehive

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From Karen H.: Wind Promises Blackouts as Obama Strains Grid with Renewables

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Federal Judges Order California to Release 43,000 Inmates. The streets of California may soon get a bit more mean.

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Mr. Cleans for Hire Tasked with Tidying Foreclosed Homes. (Thanks to Jeremy L. for the link.) OBTW ,SurvivalBlog readers should take note, and consider this a "growth" industry for the next decade. It fits with my recommendations of setting up a recession-proof small business for a second stream of income.



"Commit thy works unto the LORD, and thy thoughts shall be established." - Proverbs 16:3 (KJV)



Sir,

Our prayers for you and your family continue daily.

My grandfather has six 12"x12" square wooden posts on his farm house's front porch. Each one has held various caches for over 55 years and no one has ever been aware. It was not until 20 years ago that I was painting the posts and felt the need to replace a split board that he let me in on the secret. By the way, if a cache needed changing, it was usually done every few year as the posts were scraped, primed and painted along with the porch.

For almost 16 years, our home has had PVC pipe caches inside our aluminum porch pillars/posts. Similar porch posts can be easily purchased at home supply centers or you can make them from wood like Pappy's porch on the farm.

I realize this is not necessarily convenient for frequent changes in contents and they're not perfectly secure from fire or tornadoes, but they have been effectively hidden from hundreds of people: family, strangers, etc. who have climbed, leaned, touched, and passed by them unaware, for years.

Better than a safety deposit box so far and I personally know of no one else than Pappy with a longer, successful track record of hiding and accessing caches. Please withhold my name and email as I'm giving away a family secret after much prayer for the benefit of others. Sincerely, - S. in Ohio

Jim,
Here is an idea on another place to hide cash or coinage at home: Take an old coffee can or two and put your valuable in the bottom of the can, fill it about half way. Then, on top put in a bunch of old nuts and bolts and fill to the top. Put these cans on a work bench in the garage or utility room with similar cans. Most thieves will not even touch them or look twice at cans of "junk". Then just hope your wife never decides to "clean out your junk!" - Rick V.

JWR Replies: Your comment underscores the importance of letting trusted family members know the location of keys, caches, and vault combinations. The large number of abandoned safe deposit boxes each year is indicative that too any people err toward too much secrecy within their families. Ditto for caches of cash found in walls or found in attics, often decades after someone passes away. And who knows how many hidden (but undisclosed) valuables have ended up in landfills.


Saturday, August 8, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value.)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



In the summer of 1995 I decided to build an underground multipurpose survival shelter. I purchased the book Nuclear War Survival Skills by Cresson H. Kearney and went to work. If you want to know about shelters and what it will be like living in one, then purchase his book. My brother helped me for a while with the construction, but I did the majority of the work alone and it took me two years to complete the project. Let me say up front that I’m an amateur who used a brilliant book to build a shelter. Along the way I made many mistakes and had some unanticipated problems. Hopefully if you decide to do something along these lines you can learn from my many mistakes.

I purchased used 40 foot x 12foot diameter and 20 foot x 8 foot [galvanized steel ] road culvert pipes. The 20 foot long culvert would be used as the entrance to the larger pipe. The first step of my project was to enclose the ends of the 40’ pipe. In the back I used heavy angle iron to frame the end then 2x12s to enclose it. Welding on galvanized metal was a problem for me so I also bolted the braces to the pipe. When I finished enclosing the end it didn’t look right so I placed black roofing felt over the 2x12s and covered it all with a layer of plywood, painted it and then tarred it. I cut a hole in the back at floor level and inserted a 12’’ plastic pipe into the hole and ran the pipe up to the top for airflow. In the front of the pipe I framed it in with angle iron and just used 2x12s. I used 2x12s so that my front solid core entrance door would be right.

I used metal channel iron to enclose the floor of the pipe. I cut the floor frame channels to the proper length so that the floor was about 8ft in height so that I could walk and not hit my head. I installed a plywood floor and placed 4 foot square inserts in the center that would pull up and out for easy access to the lower level. This lower level gives me 4 foot x 40 foot storage under the floor with 8 feet of headroom on top. Along the sides I used two 2x12s wide for bench seats the entire length of the pipe on both sides. This is more than enough seating and is not in the way when you walk around in the pipe. I don’t want to gloss over this part but it took about a year for me to complete the inside.

After I completed the construction of the pipe I was ready to bury it. To accomplish this I rented a 988 Cat[erpillar brand wheel loader with a excavation bucket] and dug a hole for the 40 foot long section. I then buried it to the proper height so the 8 foot piece would match the door and then buried the whole thing. The 20 foot x 8 foot piece extended out the end far enough to prevent the soil from burying the front door. From the bottom of the pipe to the top of the soil is about 22 feet. After burying everything the front didn’t look right. There wasn’t anyway to secure the entrance to the pipe so I then I built a 20x20 wooden shed on the end to secure the entrance. I placed the pipe west to east so the airflow would work and buried the pipe with about 10ft of earth on top of the main 40-foot pipe being sure to protect the plastic air pipe on the end. The book says you only need three feet of compacted earth to protect you from radiation but 10 feet works for temperature control. [JWR Adds: In my experience, only foot depth of clay or loam soil is required to take full advantage of the ambient ground temperature, at least outside of permafrost zones.] The temperature is constant summer and winter and it is pleasant inside. I checked the level of the ground for drainage and adjusted the drainage away from the entrance.

Alongside my buried pipe shelter I placed a Santa Fe Railroad boxcar for storage. This was the real deal and made of solid metal. I filled the boxcar with lots of stuff that could be used for barter or just be used to keep us comfortable. After loading the boxcar with stuff, as a precaution, I welded the two large solid metal doors shut. The doors slid sideways to open so I felt it wouldn’t take much to prevent them from opening.

After I finished construction, my pipe complex was 80ft long, with a storage boxcar alongside. There was water, food, bedding, clothes, everything I could think of that I might need, I stored in the pipe shelter. There is water close by and I also had 8 - 55 gallon. used white plastic Coca-Cola syrup barrels filled with water inside the pipe. When I open the entrance door and the 12’’ plastic air flow pipe you can feel the air flow but according to the book that isn’t enough air for [very] many people and the book tells you how to increase the airflow for more people. On the right side of the pipe there is electrical plugs for 12 volt DC power and 2 Heavy equipment 12 volt DC batteries for power. On the left side of the pipe is 120 volt AC power [conduit and outlets] to be plugged into a generator.

The boxcar was for extra, non-essential items. My family and I could go to my pipe shelter without bringing anything with us and stay there for at least one year.

Lessons I have learned:
My first and biggest mistake was in believing that my property was secure. There is no possible way to secure property if you aren’t there to secure it. I have 120 acres fenced in and the pipe location is out of sight of the main road. I thought the location was secure but it only took the druggies a couple of years to find it. Once the word got out what was there everything went down hill fast. Now the property is always being broken into and trashed. They will steal anything and everything and then trash the rest. I live in the city and the [unoccupied] pipe [shelter] is 200 miles away from my home in the country. The pipe is located in the middle of my land but it doesn’t matter. (Hindsight) When you use wood to enclose your shelter eventually the Prairie dogs and druggies will find a way into it. 4 Wheeler [ATV]s can go anywhere and they do. Not only did they break into my pipe [shelter] and destroy and steal everything, they used a bumper jack to attach to the bottom of my metal door on my boxcar, jack it out and steal everything they wanted. Then when they had everything worth something they burned the boxcar. The interior walls and floor of a boxcar are lined with heavy wood and burns real hot.

So here is where I am now: I had to rebuild the front of the entrance to the pipe. I originally had some windows in front of my pipe complex to help add a little illumination so I used crusher screen cloth to cover the windows and doors. After the druggies broke into the pipe they left it open and the prairie dogs ruined everything left inside. I have cleaned out everything in the pipe and threw it all away. Now the pipe is empty but at least it is still usable, but my boxcar is a burned-out shell and unusable.

If you want to have a place in the country to escape to Good luck. You have to be there to be able to protect it.
I also buried some plastic 55gal barrels with some extra #10 cans of food in them. They have been in the ground for about 10 yrs and I have learned another lesson. There is enough moisture in the barrels to rust through many of the #10 cans. The barrels didn’t leak water but many of the #10 cans still rusted through. If you want to do something like this dip your cans in wax and that will protect the metal #10 cans from rusting. You can buy lids for 55 gallon barrels that snap on to the top of the barrel. They are thin but if you place a piece of rolled plastic on top of the lid and then some ¾’’ plywood over the top of the barrels they will be fine. Mine were buried on end with about two feet of soil on top. You can bury 8 barrels with a single piece of plywood over them and have a lot of #10 cans of food safely stored in a cool temperature. 10 yrs. of storage isn’t a problem if you store wheat, rice and beans as you can fill in the gaps later with storage easer to get to.
I find that this type of storage in 55gal plastic barrels buried in the ground works for many different things.

[Some information on another topic deleted, for brevity. It will eventually be posted separately.]

I hope this information is helpful. - BB

JWR Adds: I've heard may similar tales about unoccupied retreats being ransacked. BB's experience underscores the oft-repeated need to either:

1.) Live at your retreat year-round, or

2.) Have a retreat caretaker, or

3.) Have a trustworthy year-round resident neighbor that lives in a house with line of sight to your retreat buildings.

Anything less than that cannot be relied on! There is some utility in motion-queued web cams, but there is no sure substitute for the Mark I Human Eyeball. I consider web cams just a good backup, and a means to capture images of would-be burglars and their vehicle license plate numbers.

If it is an underground shelter, then you might get away with a completely hidden entrance. Typically, this is done with a large scrap/junk pile. (Two of my consulting clients have done this, thusfar with several years of success.) Although it is labor intensive to remove, the "scrap pile camouflage" technique is fairly practical for a property that you visit only infrequently. But all it takes is just one untrustworthy person that knows about the shelter's existence to make this approach ineffective. (The goblins will keep looking until the find the entrance.)

Given enough time, miscreants can reduce just about any obstacle to entry to an unoccupied and unobserved structure. They will come back with a cutting torch or even a backhoe, given enough time!



Mr. Rawles:
The recent article that you linked to about the unemployed Indiana couple was disturbing on so many levels. The family in this article had a completely different way of doing things and the timing of reading the two articles in a short period of time highlighted the stark difference. - G&K in Florida





What varmint is killing your chickens? Ellen F. suggested this informative predation web site.

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Slate conducts a thought experiment: The End of America 2009: How it will happen.

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In case you missed it when it aired in June, the US ABC television network's "what if" documentary Earth 2100 has been posted to YouTube. Although it has plenty of Al Gore-style guilt-ridden "we ruined the environment" hand-wringing, it is still worth watching.

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Some rules of civilization (outside of a handful of cruel exceptions like the Ik tribesmen) are almost universal: Living in Tents, and by the Rules, Under a Bridge. (Thanks to "Ant" for the link.)



"How quiet, calm, and solemn, not at all like when I was running," thought Prince Andrei, "not at like when we were running, shouting, and fighting; not at all like when the Frenchman and the artillerist, with angry and frightened faces, were pulling at the swab - it's quite different the way the clouds creep across this lofty, infinite sky. How is it I haven't seen this lofty sky before? And how happy I am that I've finally come to know it. Yes! everything is empty, everything is a deception, except this infinite sky. There is nothing, nothing except that. But there is not even that, there is nothing except silence, tranquility. And thank God!..." - Leo Tolstoy, War and Peace Volume 1, Part Three, Chapter XVII


Friday, August 7, 2009


Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



I see it several times a week: What gun should I get? How much ammo should I have? How big should my garden be? Should I get gold or silver? And on and on it goes, week after week. More and more people are becoming “aware,” and are seeking the advice of those of us who have “been there, done that.” There is so much great information out there to answer the plethora of those types of questions. Invariably, someone eventually asks, “how do I afford that?” There are other variations of this question as well, but it all boils down to the same thing in the end. Many of us, including myself, are not monetarily wealthy. Considering that most of the country is in debt, that means that many survivalists, especially those new to the subject, are in debt. With the sudden realizations smacking them about the head and chest, combined with the required urgency of the situation, people want to get the necessary preparations in short order, but are not sure how to do it with limited funds.

It can be done. Just like your 401(k) investments, it happens a little bit at a time. I do not know a single survivalist that just bought into the life with just one check from the checkbook. This is not a life you just buy into in a day. So rest assured that those of us who are well prepared did so over time, with trail and error, money, sweat, and bruised egos. You have an advantage that we did not have – the internet. You can learn from us, from our mistakes and our wisdom through the internet and gain valuable insight, hopefully without many monetary mistakes. Absorbing this knowledge is your first key to being able to “afford” preparations.

Beans, bullets, Band-Aids has been articulated many times and in many ways. Now, how do I afford it all? A budget and prioritizing are the answers. Did I just hear you moan? I am sorry, but you cannot do it without a budget and setting your priorities to pay down debt and acquire preparations. All other things go to the bottom of the list. I have never in my life made more than $40,000 in a year. Looking at my last 22 years of taxable income statements, it shows that my average yearly pay is just over $18,000 per year. This is not because I do not have the ability to earn much more, it is because I choose to live life and not be a slave to societal pressures to have a career. I have still managed to prepare with miniscule funds, debt, and a family by setting my priorities and keeping a strict budget.

So, how do I get started?

  1. Stop using credit cards and credit – forever!
  2. Stop frivolous spending immediately – no eating out, no movies, no cable, no manicures, no vacations, no guys’ night out, etc. Either you are serious about preparing, or you are a party-goer. Which is it?
  3. Establish an emergency fund, in cash of at least $1,000. This is not spending money. This is to cover an inevitable visit from Murphy, Sod, or Finagle.
  4. Document every dollar you spend to find out where your money is going.
  5. Create a budget that outlines your debts and expenses. This should be prioritized with Food, Water, Shelter, and Transportation at the top. These are the bills that get paid first. Other bills, debts, and expenses get laid out in order of importance. When you add up your bills and expenses, if the number is larger than your bring home paycheck, you need to get another job. If the number is smaller, this money is used for getting your preparations. If your total is equal to you take home pay, tighten you belt.
  6. Tighten you belt – go over your expenses and see where you can cut. Everyone has things they can cut. Eliminate anything that is not necessary. Shop for better deals on phone services, electricity, etc. Change the thermostat a few degrees, unplug appliances when not in use, shop at different stores, use coupons, purchase used, etc.

Now that you are started with properly managing your money, it is time to make lists for preparations. Food should be the first thing on the list, followed closely by defense (guns, ammo, and training) and medical supplies and training. Clothes, shoes, coats, etc. should also be on the list along with communications gear. There are plenty of other things to put on your lists, and much of it has been discussed on this blog. Now that you have your lists of things to get, research real costs of these items and document your findings.

What do I mean by real costs? In the business world, this is called total cost and is the actual cost of an item, shipping, storage, and upkeep of the item. You need to know all costs involved for every item on your lists. Fifty pounds of triple cleaned oats may cost you $12.50 from you local supplier, but to put it up long-term, you will need a bucket, mylar bag, and oxygen absorbers. You also need to know where you are going to store it, and any associated costs to keep it stored. Some items may require a climate-controlled environment for long-term sustainability and this cost may be separate from your home costs depending on your situation.

You can severely cut into the total cost of preparations by researching, pooling resources with other preppers, and working as a team to put up those preparations. You can get bulk discounts by purchasing case lots, pallet lots, and purchasing seconds. This goes not just for food, but also for guns, ammo, clothes, seeds, construction materials, etc. Write down the price quotes you get, the name of the business, the phone number, and with whom you spoke. After the first few calls, it will get easier and become enjoyable. If you have friends, break up the lists and put others in charge of researching a subject. A big thing to remember when researching your future purchases: businesses must sell products to stay in business, but you are not required to buy – most things are negotiable.

So, how did I do it? Using all of the above, I started by allotting $10 per weekly trip to the grocery store to get canned goods. These were put away for emergencies. Other money was saved until I had enough to purchase an item at the top of my list (i.e. a rifle), and then the process started over. Later, I learned that I needed to set a budget for my weekly grocery trip and make a list for that as well. Since I was keeping track of every dollar I spent, I noticed that my weekly shopping trip expenditures were erratic, fluctuating between $90 and $190 per week plus my $10 preps. So, I made a list for the week’s groceries and set a [weekly] budget of $125. The first few months of this were hard. I had to make concessions, purchase lesser cuts of meat, off-brands, or simply cut certain things altogether. After a year of doing it this way, we were spending less than $75 per week to feed a family of four. What do you think we do with the extra money we were spending at the grocery store? That’s right, it buys more preps every week.

I sold my full sized four-door truck with payments, which freed up $430 per month, and paid cash for an early 1990s model beater S-10 Blazer. Is it as nice as my truck was? Not even close. Does it get me where I need to go? Absolutely. What do you think I did with the extra $430 per month? Right again, I bought more preps. Every time we pay off a debt, the money we were paying towards it gets put towards another debt, until it is paid off. Then all of that money goes to the next debt and so on, until suddenly, no more debt. Every extra dollar we got, paid for a prep or went to a debt.

I also save the required money and purchase exactly what I want, not something to get me by. Always buy what you want. Never purchase something that you think you want or something inferior. I see others do this all the time. This is the best way to waste your money. I see others with slim budgets purchase a Mosin Nagant and a tin of ammo, simply because they wanted to have something, when they really wanted a M1A or an AR-15. If I want an expensive rifle, or high quality tent, I stay patient and save the required amount of money and get exactly what I want. I learned this lesson the hard way, so you shouldn’t have to.

If you were as prepared as you thought you could be, and TEOTWAWKI came to pass, you would do everything in your power to properly manage your resources and hopefully ride out the storm. You would document all of you food, guns, ammo, and supplies. You would make plans on how best to utilize what you had, disseminate those plans to your family (and friends) and make certain that those plans were followed. Well, TEOTWAWKI has not come to pass, but all of the ingredients required to survive are the same ingredients needed to prepare to survive. Document what you have in monetary means, make plans to best utilize those means, disseminate those plans to your family, and make sure everyone sticks to the plan. Before you know it, you will be well stocked and supplied.

 



Hello Jim,
I think the problem with the links readers sent you about how and where to hide precious metals, cash, etc., miss the most important point--it's not the hiding place itself, but how inaccessible or well-concealed the hiding place is. Given enough time, anyone who knows what kind of faux storage containers to look for (e.g., a can of soup) will naturally check there first. Unless items are stashed away in your bug-out location, burglars will typically want to get in and out of a house as quickly as possible.My recommendation would be to not only install a floor safe in [a dry] basement or in a corner of the house, but to also make that spot as inaccessible as possible under normal circumstances. Install the safe in the far back corner of the basement, then stack as much clutter as possible on top of the spot--what thief worth his trade is going to waste his time moving dozens of boxes of Christmas ornaments, old clothes, books and furniture to see if there might be a safe underneath everything? In the meantime, small stashes of precious metals and other valuables can be hidden in various unlikely spots around the house [for use] until the home's residents get a chance to go down and move all the clutter to access the safe. It might sound like way more work than it's worth for some people, but it's a lot easier than trying to replenish stuff that should've been hidden in such a place to begin with. - Chad S.

James,
I really appreciate your blog and the info. God bless you for it. Regarding the articles that you mention and link "Seven Secret Places to Hide Cash in Your Home"; I don't believe [this article] is completely sound advice.

First, now that the information is out in the open, on the public Internet, none of those options are still valid as protection against thieves. Granted, probably not many actually surf those type of blogs. However, with thieves something like that travel by word of mouth very rapidly. In fact, a close friend of mine who is a corrections officer at Federal penitentiary refers to the institution as a" college for bad guys".

Secondly, none of the seven options offer protection against fire. Additionally, insurance companies do not cover cash losses on their policies.

What are some viable options? Personally, I use a heavy fire-proof gun safe, that contains a smaller water-proof and fire-proof safe inside it for my important papers, cash, and gold coins. With that combination, I have several hours of fire-protection. Another option I'm considering is burying some cash in a sealed in ziploc bags inside a PVC container somewhere outside where it is unlikely to be accidentally discovered by digging.

Just my initial thoughts. Again, I really appreciate the information and your efforts. May God bless you and your family. In Christ, - S.R. in Kentucky



Yikes! CBS Advertising Net Income Plunges 96% (Thanks to frequent content contributor F.G. for the link.)

Tom G. mentioned this piece by Karl Denninger: Blatant Monetization Uncovered: Federal Reserve bought back half of the seven-year issue this week. I 've warned you that monetization (and inflation) are coming. This is just the begriming!

Reader Karl in PDX asks: Do you remember in the 1990 [gangster] film Goodfellas, by Martin Scorsese, when one of the robbery team goes out and buys a pink Cadillac for his wife with the proceeds? Robert DeNiro's character has to step in. "Now, what did I tell you about laying low for awhile. Huh?" This news headline too familiar to be a coincidence: Goldman employees told no big purchases. "...this is a sensitive time for us, and wants to make sure that we're not being seen living high on the hog."

From frequent content contributor GG: Lithuanian Economy Shrank 22.4%, EU’s Worst Recession

Items from The Economatrix:

Southern States Becoming Epicenter of Job Losses

The Greenback is Broken

Is Gold Gearing Up (Again) to Break $1,000?

Skip the Happy Talk, this Depression is Just Beginning

Wealth for the Sensible (The Mogambo Guru)

Obama Administration Withholds Data on Clunkers
Most buyers not picking Ford, Chrysler, GM

Bank Regulators Dig in Against Obama Shake Up

US Stocks Retreat on Worse-Than-Expected Jobs, Services Data

Georgian Bank Says Bad Loans Surged 10 Times in Six Months, Seeking Cash

Factory Orders Increase 0.4%, Ex-Transport Increases 2.3%

Senate Poised to Add $2 Billion to "Clunkers" Program.

Biggest Recession Blunders



Steve W. and Brian M. both mentioned that there will be an EMP risks and risk mitigation conference in Niagara Falls, New York in September: EMPactAmerica. For a conference of this nature, registration is reasonably priced. The "early registration rate" deadline is August 8th. As with other public events where preppers congregate, if you attend, then wear or carry SurvivalBlog or Bennington Flag meet-up gear. You never know who you might bump into!

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Patton sent this: 34 Million Americans on Food Stamps

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From GG: More ask to carry concealed weapons; Political, economic fears drive increase

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Steve W. recommended this article from Make magazine: Cottage Economy.



"Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint." - Mark Twain


Thursday, August 6, 2009


The hard economic times that I--and many others--warned you about are now here. We are clearly now in the opening stages of a full-scale depression that will last a decade or longer.

This news article (sent to me by SurvivalBlog reader Eric C.) .about an unemployed couple in Indiana is a microcosm of what we will be witnessing for the next decade. Take a few minutes to read it.

Our pampered society is in for a rude wakening. Now, at the risk of sounding unkind and judgmental, the term "white trash" comes to mind. Note that this man in Indiana had no savings, plenty of debt, and obviously no food reserves. Also note that despite his "austere" budget on unemployment insurance, he wastes hundreds of dollars per month as he smokes cigarettes, drinks soda pop, drinks beer (in large quantity), gambles, and pays for commercial car washes. His wife still carries a Blackberry with an airtime contract. Why are they buying disposable diapers, when they could be washing cloth diapers? The article also mentions that the husband has gained 40 pounds in the year since he was laid off. Did he consider planting a vegetable garden? Or washing his own car? (Both would have saved money and provided exercise.) This couple needs a serious lesson in budget priorities. They say that they are worried about their children's school grades, yet they still have a television and XBox games. It is time for a garage sale, to sell those time-wasting gadgets. Then regularly-scheduled trips to the local library, to get their children literate!

This gent is in his thirties, yet he has ruined his health with drinking, smoking, and over-eating. He and his wife seem to view military service as a last resort for their high school senior son. Well, I have a news flash for them: Both the son and the father should have enlisted! In 2006, the US military raised its maximum age of enlistment to 42. (BTW, as the economy continues to worsen, I expect the military to raise their standards considerably and eventually begin turning away large numbers of candidates, just as they did in the 1930s.)

It is also noteworthy that this man is on anti-depressants. He is not alone. Consider this article that was sent to me by Karen H.: Antidepressant Use Doubles in US, Study finds. That is alarming just by itself, but just consider what will happen if and when the Schumer Hits the Fan, and all those patients run out of their medications. (And their booze, and their cigarettes, and their marijuana, and their MTV, and their Crackberry instant messages, and their chocolate, and their American Idol, and their Dunkin' Donuts, and their porn, and their meth, and their soap operas, and their "Energy" drinks.) This could get very ugly, very quickly, once so many millions of suddenly very cranky, very desperate people start roaming the streets. My suggestion is: Don't be near then, in any significant numbers. Move to hinterboonies.

In summary: I had no idea that wallowing in self-pity was such exhausting, time-consuming work. At least they have a comfortable couch and recliner. This old quote mentioned by a SurvivalBlog reader sums up their situation: "The Lord does not bless the farmer who leans on his hoe."

Here is my advice for SurvivalBlog readers on how to survive the currently unfolding Depression:

  • Work cheerfully and diligently. It is slackers that find themselves unemployed first.
  • Get debt free and stay debt free. Take on no new indebtedness, and pay down the debts you already have.
  • Learn to distinguish essentials from non-essentials.
  • Write a budget, and stick to it. Whittle it, as necessary, to avoid debt.
  • Sell off your useless Beanie babies and assorted knickknacks.
  • Increase your savings
  • Build up your food storage
  • Diversify your investments. Don't put all your money in one bank.
  • Check your bank or S&L's safety rating at TheStreet.com. Check your stocks, ETFs, mutual funds, and insurers, while you are at it.)
  • Hedge your investments with some tangibles
  • Sell off any vacation or rental properties that don't have retreat potential
  • If you move, then it should be to a place near a secure job, and preferably to a piece of farm or ranch land that provides some self-sufficiency.
  • Develop a second stream of income.
  • Release yourself from your addictions. Pray fervently, and if need be, seek help.
  • Plant a garden.
  • Stay in shape.
  • Be willing to accept work that is lower paying or less appealing
  • Be charitable.
  • Most importantly: Get right with God. (Believe, repent of your sin, confess Jesus as your savior, and be baptized.) It is time to pray hard, folks! I believe in predestination. If you are reading this, and feel convicted to make change in your life, then you are fulfilling what God has had planned for you since "before the foundations of the Earth."

Forgive me for ranting, but that article about the unemployed family in Indiana got me a bit riled up.

One suggestion, in closing: If you get laid-off, do not move to a relative's basement in Michigan. Instead, move to where you can find work, even if it hard, "rolled up sleeves" work.



Good Morning.
I have been diversifying my investments, with a strong emphasis on gold and pre-1965 [silver] coins. Currently, the coins are stored in a bank safe deposit box.

Can you tell me, in the event of a "bank holiday" will safe deposit boxes be available? In other words, I understand that they won't allow me to withdraw cash from my account (my understanding of the term, bank holiday). But, would the bank allow customers access to the safe deposit boxes to withdraw whatever might be stored in the vault?

Thanks for all you do. Keep up the good work. - RBH

JWR Replies: No, bank boxes will probably be unavailable, since in bank holiday, bank lobbies will be closed to the public. In fact, the "worst case" for hard money preppers would be the combination of a bank holiday and a simultaneous gold confiscation a la 1933. I can foresee that you would only have access to your safe deposit box under the watchful eye of a sworn officer, on your first deposit box access following a gold seizure--either by executive order or by an act of congress. So your options include private (non-bank vault companies--very few and far between, unless you live in Las Vegas), or hidden storage caches at home. I prefer the latter. For details, see this piece that I wrote about wall and door caches in SurvivalBlog.

Coincidentally, reader Mike O. recently sent me the link to this LifeHacker article: Where and How to Safely Hide Cash in Your Home. And soon after, reader Andrew D. sent this: Seven Secret Places to Hide Cash in Your Home. You gotta love synchronicity.





Susan Z. recommended this piece by Bob Chapman: And All the Kings' Horses and All the King's Men...

GG mentioned Mish Shedlock's latest piece: Weekly Unemployment Claims Portend Disaster

Also from GG: Federal tax revenues plummeting. I can foresee the reinstitution of pre-Kennedy-era marginal tax rates (more than 50%) in the next few years. This is just one more good reason to invest in tangibles. They'll heavily tax interest income, but you don't pay taxes on tangibles until you sell them.

Several items from frequent content contributor Karen H.:

Cathay Pacific to Park Six Passenger Planes After 27% Sales Slump "“We still cannot see any signs of any pickup in business,” Chairman Christopher Pratt told reporters in Hong Kong today.

Adidas Q2 Net Profit Falls 93 Percent

P&G Fourth-Quarter Profit Declines as Consumers Curb Spending

ADP Says U.S. Companies Decrease Payrolls by 371,000 "The estimated 371,000 drop, higher than economists forecast, followed a revised 463,000 drop the prior month, figures from ADP Employer Services showed today."

Farmland Falls for First Time Since 1987 "Farmland prices in the U.S., which advanced for 21 years, couldn’t escape the worst plunge in real estate since the Great Depression."

Items from The Economatrix:

Investors Nudge Rally Forward with Small Gains

Mortgage Aid Program Helping Fraction of Borrowers

Florida-based Mortgage Company Suspended A prominent U.S. mortgage company is being investigated by the Housing and Urban Development Department after allegedly failing to submit a required financial report, raising concerns of fraud. The Federal Housing Administration on Tuesday suspended Taylor, Bean & Whitaker Mortgage Corp. from originating new FHA-insured mortgages, HUD said in a news release.

The Ultimate Suckers Rally: Record-breaking 50% Stock Market Rally in 5 Months; Extreme Market Volatility Occurs in Deep Economic Recessions and Depressions

Good-bye Dollar, Hello Gold

Fed to Strengthen Bank Examination with Expert Teams

American Incomes Head Down, Threatening Recovery in Spending

Banking Bonuses is Bubble Yet to Burst
"Even after receiving billions in government money to rescue the industry, whose bonus culture has been nailed as one of the causes of the crisis of 2008, the bankers have slipped right back into their old ways. And yet the one lesson we can draw from the last year is that all bubbles burst eventually. The bonus juggernaut is staying afloat on a wave of cheap money and taxpayer support. That will be withdrawn one day, and the fallout will be huge."

Sotheby's Sees Bottom for Art Market After Quarterly Profit Declines 87%





"Naturally the advance planning that we did on this thing belongs on the credit side of the ledger. So also does the venture into night flying, although in the final analysis the only real effect it had on this operation was to hold us in the area for one more night. Had we found the U-505 at night, there would have been no possibility of capture—that boarding idea was improbable enough in broad daylight, it was impossible at night.

This whole operation is an example of the fact that a military commander controls events only up to a certain point. He can anticipate certain things, perhaps even set the stage for them to happen, and can be ready to cash in on them if they do happen. But whether they will happen or not depends on many things over which he has no control. One is what goes on in the other commander’s mind and another is what goes on in his own. Both of these mental processes are subject to influence from above, or by Divine sufferance, from below. I am not trying to say that we have no control over our destiny on this earth. But I do say that in many things we control it only up to a certain point. Beyond that point nebulous things which occur inside men's brains decide the issue. In this particular instance, I speak from firsthand experience when I say the stuff that ran through my mind for a week or so was all wrong, but the final result was very good....

The only moral I can see to all this is to plan your operations carefully, get the best advice you can from experts, fix it so that if certain things happen, you will not be caught flat-footed, and then, rely on the motto we have stamped on all our pennies—'In God We Trust.'” - From Twenty Million Tons Under the Sea, by Rear Admiral Daniel V Gallery . In June of 1944, Gallery’s Naval Task Group Task Group 22.3 boarded and captured the German submarine U-505, the first capture of an enemy man-of-war at sea since 1915, taken as a Prize of War and still on public display, at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago.


Wednesday, August 5, 2009


I just heard that JRM, the author of the recent article "A Prepper Husband and a Stubborn Wife," has been tapped for a special "Publisher's Award" by Jake Stafford, the Publisher at Arbogast Publishing. JRM will receive a complimentary copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course. Congrats!

---

Today we present another entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value)

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



I recently decided to try to add to my skill set by doing something I had not tried before. Raising birds from eggs. I have included raising animals as part of my long term survival plan for TEOTWAWKI. And in my usual fashion I needed to try it first to feel comfortable in listing it as a skill to be used if the situation arose.

There are many reasons that would require the need to hatch birds from eggs. Even if you have your flock already, what would happen if they were to become sick and die leaving you with just eggs? Or if a fox got into the henhouse (literally) and ate all your adult birds. Or a neighbor barters with you for some eggs but doesn’t have enough adult birds to spare. I even thought about the wild birds and wondered if I were to find a nest with duck or goose eggs would I have the skills to utilize these resources.

With my limited knowledge on the subject my first stop was a few internet searches to get some basic information on supplies. What I found was the need for an incubator. This is a container that is made to maintain a steady temperature and humidity for the hatching eggs. This can be as simple as a converted cooler for a few dozen eggs, or as elaborate as a large commercial incubator to handle hundreds or thousands. With preparedness in mind I found plans for converting an old refrigerator into a suitable incubator. (There are many plans available on a variety of web sites for you to choose which might fit your needs) I also came across a commercially available incubator call the “Hovabator”. I was impressed with this model and decided to order it as the cost was minimal and included all the needed parts including a thermometer. When it was delivered I was pleased and impressed with the incubator as well as the detailed instructions and helpful hints. This unit uses standard household 110 volt power however it requires very little power and I did run it for a few days on a deep cycle marine battery hooked to a 750 watt power inverter. After three days there was almost no power loss shown on my volt meter. I would estimate that the battery would easily run this incubator for two weeks before needing to be swapped for a charged battery. However I did set it up in my garage with an average summer time temperature of around 88 degrees, so it required less heating than if running during a cooler season. The instructions suggested a temperature of 100-101 degrees for most species of game birds. Once I had the incubator set up, I ran it for a few weeks to check the reliability. After the initial trial it was now time to pick my eggs.

For my first shot at hatching I wanted to pick a species that would be common for my area but would also be something that I may come across in the wild. And of course cost would be a consideration as well. I first thought quail eggs would be interesting, but they are such a small bird that a large number would be needed to use as a food source. I finally decided on the Eastern Wild Turkey. We have a great population of these game birds on our hunting lease and I thought with their size that the food value would be high. I searched for a company that could supply me with a dozen eggs for the first hatch. I located several breeders but chose B&D Game Farm , based on their informative web site.

I would like to recommend this farm and their quality products. I ordered a dozen eggs online for less than I could buy two frozen turkeys at the grocery store. I did have to wait an extra week for delivery as one of the owners explained over the phone that their wild turkey flock had slowed down on their laying and that a lot of people had been ordering this breed from them. Once the eggs arrived I was pleased to see all the additional information that came along with these eggs. Including a detailed hatching booklet with specific care instructions.

Now it was time to begin the incubation. The eggs were placed in the incubator at 100 degrees. I also added approximately ½ cup of water to the bottom of the tray to keep the humidity high enough. Suggested humidity is 50% up until the last few days where a slight increase is desirable. Water was added every three to four days as needed. Each egg was placed on the tray and was marked with an “X” on one side and an “O” on the other using a #2 pencil. The instructions for the turkey eggs recommended turning the eggs 2-5 times per day and the X’s and O’s would help me to keep track of which side was up. I would recommend at this point that if you do want to hatch a large quantity that you invest in an automatic turner for your incubator. Turning the eggs by hand everyday was fun the first few days and after that become a chore I would pass on to the kids.

The turkeys hatched in 28 days. There are many birds that will hatch sooner and a few that will take longer, but most will be between 14-30 days. Chickens are 21 days, and quail are 14 days. It is best to find out what your chosen breed will be because it is recommended that you stop turning them 2-3 days before they hatch.

Small cracks and then small holes began appearing the morning of the 28th day. The turkeys were trying to get out. Unfortunately the kids wanted to try to help them and we lost one to slippery fingers. Another helpful hint: Do not try to help the chicks by breaking their eggs. They will do fine by themselves if the chicks are healthy. Out of the dozen eggs we lost one to a cracking early on and another to clumsiness and three did not hatch at all, but considering this to be my first try I felt good to have eight out of twelve successfully hatch out. For the poults (turkey chicks) it is okay to leave them in the incubator for up to 24 hours after hatching for them to stay warm and dry off, but then they need to be moved to a brooder or a warmed enclosure. Again with summer temperatures in the south being on the warm side I used a cardboard box and hung a light bulb placed 15” over the box for warmth at night. You may need to have a more elaborate set up in the winter months or in a cooler climate.

Feeding and watering is a simple process and commercially available feed or “scratch” is very inexpensive and available at any "feed and seed" store. Although it appears to be a mix of crushed grains with corn being the main ingredient. An older gentlemen at the feed store mentioned he used to take two handfuls of corn to one handful of wheat and grind until almost a powder when he was feeding his chicks. For those of you who require more technical information a meat bird is recommended to have a diet of at least 18-25% protein base to help it reach its full weight. The feeding trays and water trays should be very shallow as the birds will peck and get it all over themselves [or drown] if given to them in deep trays.

I lost two more birds in the first week but after that they have been growing nicely. I expect them to be full size in another 4-6 months. I have shot wild turkeys upwards of twenty pounds and with these birds being farm raised I hope they will be at least that weight.

I constructed a pen using hardware cloth nailed to poles. It is four feet high and approximately 20’x10’. I also added an old shrub and a three sided wooden box to help give them some protection for inside the enclosure. Right now a few handfuls of feed thrown in the enclosure is about all that is needed and of course a water tray. I do plan on raking out the enclosure each week and laying some straw or sawdust in the bottom.

This experiment has taught me several things. The most important of which is the confidence and basic techniques of raising birds for food in a TEOTWAWKI situation. I plan on doing several more test runs of a variety of birds. My wife has mentioned she would like a few peacocks to add color to our yard. But I’m thinking maybe a few guinea hens or regular laying hens for the next batch. At the very least we will end up with a few chicken dinners and eggs to go with the venison sausage that I made last fall.



Sir,
I have accumulated 'some' pre-1965 silver. Not the $1,000 face value per family member as seems to be the benchmark but I do have a bit over $1,400 face value and a few gold coins (about two ounces of gold, in combined weight) for my family.

Someone told me that even post-1964 dimes and quarters (and of course pennies and nickels for their real metal value) would have 'some' value if the dollar went bust. I do not understand how this can be but I have been saving coins nonetheless.

My question is am I better to take the 'too heavy to lift' jar of quarters and dimes I have and buy more pre-1965 junk silver or more food with it rather then hold it hoping it will have value 'after the fall' ?
I have no problem holding it as is if that is 'smart' in regards to my total survival package. Thanks, - PW

JWR Replies: Depending on the situation the "value" of coins may someday be a matter of their base metal content, but they also have face value. A post-1964 US dime or quarter is a pitiful joke, because it is just a silver-plated copper slug. You are much better off with nickels, or pre-1982 pennies, in terms of face value versus base metal value. See www.coinflation.com for details.

Imagine a future currency reform. Say that inflation sets in and eventually a zero is lopped off the currency. So new paper Federal Reserve notes are issued, and the old notes are recalled for a 10-for-1 exchange. Typically, when such currency transitions occur, the old coins would still circulate at face value, So you'd have an overnight 10X windfall on all coins in your possession, based on their retained face value. (Paper money is relatively easy for a government to switch, but coinage is not!)

My advice os cash in your copper dimes and quarters, and replace them with pre-'65 silver, or perhaps nickels (of any mint date) if you have the storage space. This way you'll have both a tangible hedge on inflation, and some insurance in the event of a currency re-issue.



Reader Pete A. sent us a link to an updated interactive map: Tracking the global spread of swine flu

First Wave of Swine Flu Peaks in UK

Mexico registers big jump in swine flu cases

Swine Flu Strategy Under Revision "U.S. authorities will release within days other 'community-mitigation"'measures, intended to help keep businesses operating, help hospitals avoid being overwhelmed and guide local authorities in deciding whether to cancel public events, officials said."



Most of you have noticed the recent price action in silver and gold. Typically, the precious metals go through "Summer Doldrums" each year, with light trading and moderated prices. But not this year! One can only ask: if the market this strong in August, then how will it be in November, as the US Dollar Index (USDI) continues to slide? I hope that you took my advice and bought silver when it was recently under $12.50 per ounce. In my estimation even at $14.50 per ounce, silver is still a bargain. As I've often written, buy on the dips.

BusinessWeek says huge wave of corporate Bankruptcies coming. (Thanks to GG for the link.)

Rich suggest this: How Safe is My FDIC-Insured Bank Account?

While our politics are disparate, I'm only rarely disappointed by the analysis and commentary presented by Charles Hugh Smith's Of Two Minds blog. Here is a recent post: "The Royal Scam" by Anonymous Correspondent

Items from The Economatrix:

Postal Service Considers Closings, Consolidations


Tax Revenues Post Biggest Drop Since The Great Depression

Mainstream Media Economic Recovery Propaganda, False Profits and Some Surprises


Do Not Be Fooled: Another Major Economic Collapse Could Be Coming Sooner than Many Think

Prolonged Aid to Unemployed to Run Out By Year's End

Alabama's Jefferson County Makes Massive Job Cuts Lays off 2/3s of 3,600 employees because of plummeting revenues.

New Stimulus? White House to Extend Jobless Aid?



Reader WW says: "Welcome to the Third World, America": Horse slaughters have Miami-area owners on edge

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Beware march of the killer robots, expert warns
. (Thanks to FG for the lead.)

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Hey, I just noticed that I finally logged my first reader in Cuba! So it is time for an experiment: Fidel Castro is expected to die before the end of August, but will not be succeeded by Hermano Raúl Modesto. (I'll bet that I suddenly get several more mapped hits in "Cuber". But of course, they will all just be los escuchas --the DGI's Internet gnomes.)

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Highlighted by reader Adam D.: Bomb shelter industry sees spike in sales



"Every truth passes through three stages before it is recognized: In the first it is ridiculed, in the second it is opposed, in the third it is regarded as self-evident." - Arthur Schopenhauer (German Philosopher, 1788-1860)


Tuesday, August 4, 2009


Today we welcome our newest advertiser, SurvivalistSeeds.com. Be sure to visit their site.



Part 1 - Introduction

History will repeat itself, for history has shown, that history will repeat itself. Unfortunately my wife is not interested in history. She is, however coming around, and now I pass my knowledge on to others whose "significant others" might not see the picture. Understanding the situation is the first step to doing something about it.

As a young (25 and 22 years old) couple, attached to the US Navy, (entering my sixth year of service) my worst nightmare is a TEOTWAWKI event occurring when I am 2,000 miles away. There is little to be done about this possibility but, as my Marine Corps brethren tell me, adapt and overcome. Contingencies have been planned, but before I get there let me elaborate on how I made a breakthrough with my young, and stubborn wife.

We have been married for three years, and I was blissfully unaware of the possibilities that life as we know it might change. I was in high school when my parents prepared for Y2K, but saw decent planning and stockpiling take place. My wife's parents planned as well, but they planned a holiday ski trip to Lake Tahoe [for December 31, 1999.]. That being said, when I joined the Navy and landed in Virginia I did not begin to take steps in preparing. That was my first mistake: I met my wife, I wasn't preparing, and she had no indication that a couple years down the road that I would open my eyes and want to devote so much time and resources towards preparing as best I could.

I can't pin down the exact moment when I realized that I had lost precious time and felt the urge to get ready. I think it was a steady stream of facts that I was able to put together, and the more I researched the more bleak the picture looked to me. I then began looking for a way to make my family's situation better. The first thing I realized was that it would cost money to prepare. So, I dusted off the planned budget, took out a red pen and started making cuts and shifting priorities around. After I felt satisfied, I sat my wife down and proposed the new budget. Needless to say, my "radical" new budget was shot down.

Part 2 - The Wrong Way

I was not entirely discouraged, but a little disappointed that my wife didn't just take my word that we needed to spend money and time on preparing. I suppose that an older (read: "wiser") man would have known to ease his wife into a new lifestyle.

I then made my second big mistake. Feeling that I "knew better" and was doing it for "her own good" I began to run a "disinformation campaign" on my wife. (Note: I don't endorse this method, as in my own experience it will fail in the end!) With spring starting, I began a dialogue with my wife about camping. It seemed logical to me, we devote money and time preparing for a few camping trips, I cross some of my items off the "need for preparation" list and she is none the wiser. It worked. We both had bug out bags, I mean "hiking packs", some cooking gear, some camping knives, flashlights, a good tent, sleeping bags, first aid kits, and the like. I was even allowed to make most of the purchases for her (thus ensuring that we didn't end up with a bright red tent, a hot pink pack and such.) We went camping, it was great, learned a few things about her ability in the wilderness (and my own) and several more things were added to my "preparation list" that I had never though of.

I felt great, stage one of my disinformation campaign was a success, and I felt ready to move on the next stage. The garden. My wife loves her flower garden. We started with a weed-infested back yard, and with a lot of hard work (on my part) and a vision (wife's department) we ended up with a nice yard, with a lot of flowers and ornamental trees. I don't intend on eating trees and flowers, so I just brought up the subject of a home vegetable garden. She liked the idea, but it was something that we really knew nothing about. We did some research on the internet, and she was immediately overwhelmed by the information and lost motivation. (I mean, c'mon we live within walking distance to the commissary.)

I was greatly helped by a new girlfriend she had made. Her friend opened her eyes to organic foods and sold her on the benefits of buying organic. I just had to wait for the right time, because I knew that the organic food store was much more expensive than the commissary. I would use my wife's own argument against her, that organic foods cost too much, but I would compromise and "allow the expense" of growing our own organic garden, which would offset the cost of buying organic meats and milk. Stage two complete.

I continued with my disinformation campaign for months, and was able to cross a decent amount of things off my "preparation list". But it was this very list that was my undoing. While cleaning she came across my list, and saw that very clearly, I had checked many things off. Then the light bulb clicked on and the gig was up. Understandably she was hurt. For months I had been less than honest about my intentions, and she viewed it as selfish and childish. Which it was. I won't go into detail about how terrible that night was when I got home, but it's safe to say that my plans for being ready were placed on hold.

Part 3 - The Right Way

As a uniformed service member I feel it necessary to keep my political beliefs private. Because of this, my wife became my outlet for venting frustration with policies I don't agree with. At first my wife was uninterested in the happenings in D.C., because she felt that it would have little impact on her way of life. This was a blessing in disguise that brought my wife to a point in her life where she wanted answers.

My wife and I were invited to a friend's house for dinner and drinks. Little to my knowledge, my friend's wife is very passionate about politics. As drinks were made, discussion ensued, and before long politics was being discussed. My friend, a Marine, is a conservative through and through. He has no problems voicing his opinions on any number of topics and policies. His wife is as liberal a person as I have ever met. The debate was quite invigorating. My poor wife, knowing only the politics that I preach to her, decided to throw her two cents in, but could barely regurgitate the things I had said previously to her, let alone defend her "position" when pointed questions were asked.

The next day I came home to my wife watching the news, and reading headlines on her laptop. She would never get into another political debate without knowing what she was talking about. I was impressed, and engaged her in many long conversations. I showed her articles and stories, and allowed her time to come to her own conclusions, the same way I came to my conclusions. But in the end it was Glenn Beck's show that prompted a question from her, "Is it possible that our economy could really collapse?"

Now I know, at 25 that I am in no position to give history lessons, but I did my best and pointed mostly towards the 1930s as an example. I talked at length about the increased danger we live in now, as modern day America is not what it was in 1930. The danger is not in the market, but in the fragility of our now intertwined systems. We talked for quite a while, and in the end talked how to protect ourselves. And finally talking about how to prepare for the worst, should it come.

Part 4 - The Plan

Again, we pulled out the family budget, and re-prioritized. In the end we were able to devote $200 a month for preparations. That was three months ago.

Simple. That was my number one priority, as it pertains to a plan. Mostly, because I knew that there is a decent chance that I could be across the world when/if an event happened.

My first purchases were paper, a few three-ring binders, and some shelving. I started by making lists of everything. Then I developed a set of SOPs, checklists and a commo plan. These are very much still in a beginning stage, but they get better every week. These binders serve three purposes. One, they allow me to think things though, and shoot holes in my plans. Two, give my wife an easy set of instructions to follow should I be deployed. Three, give me piece of mind when I am away.

Eventually, these binders will evolve into an all encompassing SOP. Set up similarly to a "choose your own adventure" book. Meaning that, you evaluate your current situation then flip to that section for a course of action. (For example, a Hurricane is rolling in, and it's going to require an evacuation. Turn to page 16 for instructions. Or it is a G.O.O.D. situation and you have an hour to get loaded up and out of town, turn to page 74.) In conjunction with this, the shelving units in the garage are organized with the binder. Meaning, that for a hurricane, all items on shelves one and two have priority in the truck.

Most of the things we have done thus far are extremely cheap. Making plans for instance, are free. Aside from the cost of the 3 ring binder, paper and ink, planning for an escape was free. We live in a very densely populated area, and our tentative plan is to bug out early to a planned waypoint to reassess the situation. I do not want to risk waiting and "fighting" my way out of town, so we may have a few "unplanned camping trips" that turn out to be false alarms, but I'll chalk it up to practice. As funds are available, I hope to store a cache of goods at this location to enable us to travel further west without needing assistance or gas stations. This first waypoint is just inside the range my truck can go on a half a tank of gas, with three routes already planned if needed.

I feel that at this stage we would be ahead of the hordes of people trying to evacuate the east coast. From this point we should be able to "camp", assess the situation via radio, and decide on the next course of action. If it's a false alarm, we pack our things in the morning and head home. If not we decide which preplanned route would be safest to get to our second waypoint. (note I have planned for a few waypoints for my second leg. Basically, if you drew a vertical line every 250-300 miles across the US there would be a few waypoints close to that line.) This will allow for flexibility in planning as we continue to assess the situation. If we must go north to get out west we will have a plan, if we can still use the interstate there will be a plan, of we need to go south there is a plan. All we have to do is chose at each leg. The hardest part of planning was having contingencies for natural barriers, such as the Appalachian Mountains and the Mississippi river.

Of course we have a destination in mind, and that is linking up with some like minded family members, who will hopefully be waiting for us when we arrive at grandpa's house out in the middle of nowhere.

90% of our focus has been on bugging out, but we plan to start shifting some focus on maintaining the homestead. This would likely be limited to a high inflation scenario, where food storage would offset costs and impact us less, as well as securing the house for the rise in crime. However, it would be foolish in our situation to stay in our city for most foreseeable situations.

The other cheap way we have begun to prepare is mentally. This was difficult for my wife. I started by giving her my copy of "Patriots" and then a copy of "The Road". It allowed her to see a significant contrast in what could happen, as well as the difference between preparing or not preparing.

I will end with this. We are only three months into actively preparing ourselves. And in a short essay it is impossible to discuss all the things we have tried. But there are some fundamental things that have worked for us.

- You have to be a team. I have gotten much further working as a team than trying to "sneak around" and prepare.

- You have to prepare spiritually. I am not a fan of church, as every time I go I feel like I am being sold something. My wife and I go straight to the source for our spiritual guidance. Prayer and studying the Bible works for us. But you need to find what works for you.

- You have to stay motivated. Keep yourself informed, and do something every single day that makes you a little more prepared. 365 little things to prepare will get me much further than saving up and buying a bunch of gear at the end of the year.

- You have to look for support. Too many of my peers (20-30 years old) are happy being blissfully unaware. But many are opening there eyes every day, and just need a friend to help them. This is where my plan falls flat, for now. Establishing a network of people to count on is very high on my priorities, but with the ever evolving network of friends getting rotated to new duty stations every couple of years this has been hard.

- You have to have a plan, and expect it to fail. I've been on many military missions, and Murphy has been there every single time. But it is easier to adjust a plan or fall back on a contingency than it is to shoot from the hip.



Hello JWR,
In reply to LRM in Perth on winter gear, I agree with the idea of layering, and using the outer layers to create a waterproof and windproof shell. I disagree that cotton is the fabric of choice to do it.

If your activities are mostly sedentary, I think the cotton might work alright, as it is breathable, and you're not perspiring much. However, if you are engaged in a physical activity, such as patrolling, doing chores, etc, you will need to both shed outer layers, and have a good hydrophobic fabric to pass the moisture created by perspiration.

My layering system, which I use for cross country skiing and winter camping, includes a base layer of a polypropylene set of long underwear, a fleece jacket or sweatshirt, a synthetic fill jacket, and a lightweight Gore-tex shell. For pants I have fleece pants over a light-weight Gore-tex shell. The advantage to this system is that I can shed layers as needed. When cross country skiing I regularly use only the long underwear and the shell, and quickly add the fleece when I stop.

In a system with high exertion or cardiovascular activity, cotton will soak quickly, and the fabric loses its insulation capabilities. In these cases, adding more layers may not be beneficial, as the water trapped in the cotton fabric is aiding the heat transfer from your body to the outside air.

So, that in mind, wisely choose your winter gear, and be sure to choose application appropriate things. I worked at a camping gear store for several years, and can say that your local camping stores are probably a wealth of knowledge in suitable outdoor gear. Go, ask questions, and learn what the products do. From there, you have the knowledge to choose what gear you may need. Whether it be consumer intent winter gear, or paramilitary intent gear, you'll have the knowledge of what materials and systems to look for. In my case, my winter gear has all remained the same, but I invested in a winter camouflage pattern Gore-tex shell to keep my consumer-intent layering system dry. - DJ in Michigan


JWR,
I was a little confused to see the reader who posted that he prefers and recommends cotton clothing as the base layer in a cold weather situation. Especially the mention of jean pants. Under mild conditions and little exertion this may be ok, but cotton materials and especially jean fabric are very poor insulators when damp, which can happen quickly during even the slightest physical activity. The real downside to cotton fibers is once they are damp or wet they take a much longer time to dry out. And if they are sitting against your skin and they are damp it will actually suck body heat from you. Having spent many years in the frozen New England winters and with thousands of hours camping in the the middle of winter (thanks to my Scoutmaster who was determined to camp in all 12 months of the year who by the way was also my Father) I can tell you with certainty that today's polypropylene or other synthetics are not only more comfortable but are easier to care for, last longer, and increase your ability to retain heat. IMHO the reader should try some of the new products and see what a difference they can make.
Sincerely, - Jason C.

 

JWR -

I appreciate the work you do each day in bringing us all to a higher level of knowledge through your blog. It is great stuff. So thank you!I am writing because I feel the need to add more to, and somewhat rebut, a posting on some advice provided by Chris G. on the Monday August 3 posting regarding winter clothing.

Good things mentioned in the posting:

1. You definitely want to wear multiple layers, no question

2. Your layers should include insulating layers beneath, with water and wind proof outer layers.

However, I find the recommendation for the under layers being "cotton" to be a very dangerous suggestion. Why you ask? Here are my thoughts on the matter…

I would first start with the question of "What is my intended activity in said winter weather?"

Reasoning: Cotton may be fine if in your intended winter activity you have no possibility of getting wet. Getting wet? Well, I have a waterproof outer layer you say - so I'm safe. Well, what if you were to fall through some ice, or get some snow shoved down/up your snowsuit after taking a spill on your snowmobile? Even if those are remote possibilities for you, the more important question is if your activity will involve anything that may cause you to perspire. Cotton may be fine if you are doing non-active work, play, or travel (non-cardio types of activities) and can thus stay dry and warm. Cotton is indeed very comfortable, no doubt. But please also think about your own perspiration.

Has anyone heard the phrase "Cotton Kills [in the cold]"? Hopefully so…

If you think you may be doing anything active, where you may sweat, think again about your under layers and if you want to be wearing cotton. The number one problem with cotton includes the fact that when it gets wet, it can and will stay wet for a very long time. Due to the fiber makeup of cotton threads themselves, cotton will absorb water, causing the fabric to quickly lose its ability to insulate when wet. Think about your sweat, your own perspiration - it is a hidden danger that some do not consider. Moisture against your body will sap body heat from you. You want to avoid any possibility of such as it may lead to hypothermia. Cotton also gets very heavy when wet.

Therefore, it is my recommendation that under layers should be synthetic or wool, with my preference being synthetic. Both of these materials will maintain their insulating qualities when wet - with synthetic being the one that is usually easier to "wring out" if ever wet, and wool being the fabric that will absorb some moisture. As synthetics never absorb the moisture, you avoid it becoming heavy with water. Some synthetic insulation such as polyester fleece is very comfortable and lightweight (Try Patagonia's Capilene, or other similar outdoor recreation brands - very comfortable). If properly layered with an outer wind and water proof blocking layer, it is very effective insulation.

Synthetics such as polar fleece also have a great warmth to weight ratio, wet or dry, which can also allow you to carry more clothing in your pack from a weight perspective as you bug out of town. Some may be a little bulky - but they are lightweight bulk.

In the end - wouldn't you just rather be prepared with synthetic winter clothing at all times? to be ready for any and all situations, active or non-active, and not risk being caught dead in cotton clothing?

Just a few thoughts from another Idaho outdoorsman/recreationalist. Keep up the great work JWR! - Kind regards, - D.R.



"John Smith" sent this: Bailout Banks Buying Treasuries Help Keep Rates Low. John's comment: "This article illustrates how the Fed has cleverly 'deputized' banks to do its dirty work. Through a combination of very cheap funding (due to Fed policies) and lack of other attractive places to deploy money, banks have been encouraged to buy huge amounts of longer-term treasuries, effectively doing the Fed's Quantitative Easing for it. So Quantitative Easing is alive and well, even if the Fed is just playing the role of central planner, not buyer in chief. That's some slick sleight of hand by Chairman Ben. But I think the end result will be the same, as long as the US still has more debt to issue - when banks can't keep buying, either yields will have to rise massively (killing the "recovery"), or the Fed will have to step in and monetize the debt (sparking inflation).

The next four items are courtesy of Karen H.:

Obama Officials Eye More Jobless Aids, Weigh Taxes "The New York Times reported on Sunday that up to 1.5 million Americans will exhaust their unemployment benefits in coming months, pushing more into home foreclosures and destitution."

Warning: Oil Supplies are Running Out Fast

In the Recession, Shoppers are Becoming Hagglers

Homeowners Facing Years of Negative Equity

Items from The Economatrix:

Marty Weiss: The "X" List: Weakest Banks and Insurers It lists s2,688 banks with "D" ratings or worse. Is one of them yours?

After $182 Billion Bailout, is AIG on Verge of Collapse Again?

US Jobs Cuts, Foreclosures Mount

Obama Says US "Many More Months" Before Recovery

Two Obama Officials: No Guarantee Your Taxes Won't Go Up Geithner: "People have to understand we have to bring those deficits down" JWR's Corrected Headline: We Guarantee That Your Taxes Will Go Up

Greenspan: Housing Could Take Another Turn Downward


Biggest US Banks Reward Stars with Huge Bonuses

For Retirement Savings, Employees Increasingly on Their Own 40% of 401(k) plans have stopped, reduced, considered suspending matches

Commodities Add to Recent Gains as Dollar Sinks JWR's Comment: We can expect a drop in the US Dollar Index (USDI) below the magic 72 level in the next few months. Spot silver and gold will benefit, correspondingly.

Day Labor Centers Threatened By Economy

Next Great Bailout: Fixing Social Security

Cash for Clunkers May Cost Over $45,000 Per Car



Thanks to Karen H. for spotting this: Dehydration and Heat Stroke

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Long-time SurvivalBlog reader "E." found this blog valuable: Early Retirement Extreme. E.'s comment:" The early retirement process is completely compatible with the preparedness lifestyle: pay off your debts, simplify, don't fall into the consumerism trap, be as self-sufficient as possible, get in shape, learn useful skills so you can do-it-yourself, don't depend on The System to take care of you, and so on. The author also subscribes to the Peak Oil theory. BTW, 'early retirement' provides a wonderful cover for those who want to keep their preps quiet, or who are concerned about developing the reputation of being "that nut job survivalist" . I'm not preparing for TEOTWAWKI, I'm trying to retire early!"

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Ben in Nevada sent this article on LDS canneries: The Mission: Put Up in Bulk

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Florida. highrise has 32 stories, but just 1 tenant. (A tip of the hat to Kristie S. for the link.)



Thus saith the LORD, Stand ye in the ways, and see, and ask for the old paths, where [is] the good way, and walk therein, and ye shall find rest for your souls. But they said, We will not walk [therein].

Also I set watchmen over you, [saying], Hearken to the sound of the trumpet. But they said, We will not hearken.

Therefore hear, ye nations, and know, O congregation, what [is] among them.

Hear, O earth: behold, I will bring evil upon this people, [even] the fruit of their thoughts, because they have not hearkened unto my words, nor to my law, but rejected it.

- Jeremiah 6:16-18 (KJV)


Monday, August 3, 2009


My gun vault down in Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) is now full. It is a large vault (a Zanotti ZA-III modular six-footer) but it isn't big enough. For more than 30 years, I've been accumulating barterable tangibles: guns, full capacity magazines, precious metals, optics, and knives. Each of these represents a fairly compact and liquid asset. They all have practical uses, although the coins and ingots are more of a medium of exchange rather than something intrinsically useful in and of themselves. (Oh, I suppose the silver could be melted down, cast into bullets, and put to good use if the ranch is overrun by lycanthropes. What if silver someday mysteriously becomes nearly worthless? If cast into buckshot, if propelled by just a wrist rocket slingshot, as Mr. Spock once said, "they would make formidable projectiles" to slay garden pests.)

I rest well at night, knowing that the vast majority of my net worth is either in the form of productive land, or useful tools. The US Dollar could get devalued or wiped out by inflation, and yet that would only hit about 3% of my net worth. This is because I convert my greenbacks into tangibles at the first opportunity, and only keep modest bank balance to pay my monthly bills.

I'll admit that I may have gone a bit overboard. Do I really need a half dozen spare Swiss Army Knives (of various models), or four spare Cold Steel Knife Voyagers? Probably not, but there they sit, new, stacked up in their factory boxes. But I don't expect their resale value to go down anytime soon. Do I truly need a stack of HK93 magazines, or Glock 17 magazines, or M14 magazines, when I don't even own any of those guns? Probably not, but they sure do make great barter items. And why do I have so many stainless Colt M1911 .45 semi-auto handguns? After all, I can only hold two at a time. But perhaps a day will come when my descendants can no longer attend a gun show and walk home with what ever they please, sans papier. And again, I don't expect them to go down in value.

I suppose that I'll soon have to buy a second vault, and bolt it down, right next to the existing one. Someday in the future, after I've joined the Choir Invisible, my children or grandchildren will have a quite a day, sorting though the contents of my vaults. And something tells me that my heirs won't be disappointed, or consider it "junk" that they are dividing up.

None of the foregoing is meant to brag. Rather, I hope that you will emulate my approach at investing diversification to prepare for the tumultuous decade ahead. Think: Tangibles, Tangibles, Tangibles!



Hello Jim,
My family and I have been offered a great price on a house ($7K,000 for a 3,400-square-foot two-story house, built in 1876, with a full basement and large backyard--the house was originally on the market for $104,000, but the seller hasn't had any offers in three years, since the housing market crashed) in a small city with open spaces less than an hour's walk away if bugging out should become necessary.

However, the bigger appeal of this house is the ample space it provides for us and a few other family members, a large backyard for gardening and the fact that most of the rest of our family is less than a 15-minute drive away (or an hour's walk--and this hour's walk would put us out in rural areas). My biggest concerns are the large (six foot wide) picture window on the front of the house, overlooking the front porch, and the front door with large window. The house is in a historic neighborhood, and any improvements to the structure of the house have to fall within certain restrictive guidelines because of the neighborhood in general and the fact that the house itself is on the state register of historic places.

I'm well aware of the prospect of smash-and-grab burglaries, especially in houses with large windows such as this one has, but I wonder what kind of modifications could be made to the windows and doors that would minimize the break-in risks. Would it be practical to add reinforced (possibly even bulletproof/brickproof/etc.) glass behind the picture window, and could you suggest possible modifications to the front door as well?

I'll add that there are several points inside the house where increasing levels of security leading to a safe room can be established without affecting the historic nature of the structure itself.

The house itself is not particularly conspicuous--it's in a historic neighborhood, so there are literally hundreds of other structures like it in the area, and there's not much turnover in terms of residents or home ownership. I've lived within four-block of this location for almost eight years, so I'm very familiar with the area. A sizable percentage of this area's residents have lived here for decades and
have no plans to move, so I don't think flight to the suburbs or beyond is really a problem, i.e., seemingly few worries that this house will be in the middle of a ghost town if things get bad. I think this house could be a major asset as a "bug-in" location and I'm sure my family isn't the only one looking to stay put rather than getting out of Dodge. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

JWR Replies: Windows that large were not made in the 1870s for middle class houses, so that very large picture window that you described surely must be from a much later retrofit. (Six pane sash windows were the norm.) Even with historic preservation codes, you could easily go back to a smaller traditional sash window, and put a pair of "storm" shutters on it. (Hint: See my novel "Patriots" for details on ballistic shutters.) Just so long as it "looks" period, you should be okay.

Ditto for the door. You can have one custom built without a window (or just a very small, high window), out of 4" thick solid oak.

Convincing the county clipboard minions just takes some historical research. At your local library or online, find pictures that were taken before 1900 of houses built in the 1870s. Be selective, and find pictures of houses with small windows, storm shutters, and stout doors. These photos will be your leverage needed to get permission to restore your house to an authentic 1870s appearance, and that should make the Historic District Authenticity Gnomes happy.

Good luck with your upcoming move and security upgrade project!



Dear JWR,
I enjoyed the great advice from Peter H. on being prepared in the winter. As a life-long Chicagoan and having spent lots of time snowmobiling in upper Wisconsin, please let me offer a few additional tips on dressing for cold weather.

Keeping warm in the cold is all about layering underneath and waterproof on the outside. I prefer cotton clothes to the newer athletic-type wicking clothes which don’t seem to hold the heat as well. Start with cotton long underwear which is snug but not too tight. A second pair of long underwear is all you should need in the coldest (sub-zero) weather.

On your upper body, add 1-2 cotton t-shirts over the 1-2 pair of long underwear to keep your trunk warm and to leave your arms free to move. I sometimes throw a loose cotton sweatshirt over all of this if it’s really cold. There are lots of parkas on the market. With all the layering underneath, just make sure the one you pick is water-proof (not water-repellant), or has a waterproof lining inside. Also make sure it is oversized to allow room for the layers underneath.

On my legs, I wear a quality pair of cotton jeans over the long underwear, and a quilt-lined bib over the jeans. I’ve taken the advice of guys who work in the outdoors in the winter (one is my best friend who is a union painter in Chicago), and buy Carhartt clothes. I agree with outdoor workers that Carhartt clothes are the best work quality around. The Carhartt bibs are preferable to one-piece snow suits because they don’t restrict your upper body movements while at the same time they are warm, water-repellant, and cut any drafts that can get under your coat. Caution: do not put these bibs in the dryer as they can shrink! These are not totally waterproof, so I sometimes add a pair of ordinary waterproof rain pants on the outside (which also helps cut the wind).

Buy waterproof, insulated, and steel-toed boots. If you walk enough in the snow, eventually you’re going to kick a chunk of ice or a stump hidden under the snow. Buy the boots at least 1 size too large and 1 size too wide to allow room for extra socks and to allow room to wiggle your toes. Having room to wiggle your toes is important to assist blood circulation, which boosts warmth (cramped toes with poor circulation will get cold in a hurry). I recommend boots from Red Wing, which are hand-made right here in America. (I’ve had one of my three pairs of Red Wings now for 12 years, and I wore this pair daily in a manufacturing plant for six of those years. It is the most comfortable footwear I own).

If you have spent a lot of time outdoors in the cold, then you know that your feet and toes will get cold before anything else, and are the hardest to warm-up once they are cold. I wear one pair of cotton athletic socks under a pair of wool socks under a pair of ski-socks. Ski socks are designed to be form-fitting (helps hold the other socks in place) and are padded to cushion your feet in ski boots. A little “trick” comes from my painter friend, who uses simple kitchen baggies to keep his feet warm. Put an oversized baggy over your socks and then go into your boots. The baggies will retain heat and add to waterproofing. This really works well for short durations with a lot of activity (working), or over long durations with little activity (hunting). Just be careful over long durations of heavy activity as the sweat moisture can build-up inside the bags and cause your feet to start pruning.

One last suggestion is to buy an pair of thick, over-sized, waterproof, Thinsulate-lined gloves and a pair of thin, tight-fitting, waterproof, Thinsulate gloves to go inside. I never found any glove liners that really work all that well. By wearing two gloves at the same time, you get the benefits of additional lining and an added layer of waterproofing. Plus, if you need to use your fingers [for fine work], you can pull your hands out of the thick outer gloves without exposing them to the elements.

Of course, all these layers may sound like overkill, but this was taking things to extreme temperatures. The nice thing about layers is that it is always easy to take a layer off if you get too warm.

I hope this helps you stay warm and dry this winter.

Also, please allow me the chance to say thank you and God bless for all the work you do. Besides buying bullion for years, I only started prepping in 8/07 when the credit markets first froze. I’ve been reading your web site daily for over a year, finished Patriots two months ago, and just finished your book on retreats. I sent a copy of Patriots to six close friends and family in the hopes that the light bulbs start going on. I know we’re probably in the eleventh hour, but I’m trying to have a retreat purchased by this fall and hope to get some help from others if they understand. This is a life changing experience and I can’t tell you how much I appreciate all your work. My prayers are with the Memsahib. - Chris G.

Jim,
Peter H's letter on Winter was spot on. Although I now live where they haven't seen snow since the last ice age, I used to live in the Colorado high county where it snowed nine months a year and picked up a couple of things:

Tire chains work great but are the most wretched things to get on ( especially if you're already stuck.). I do three things to make it reasonably easier, besides doing it before I'm stuck..

1. First I lay the tire chain out on the ground in front of the wheel. I made a couple of wood blocks around 5" square and 21/2" thick and put one of these into the gap in the chains a couple of feet back from the front of the chain stretched out on the ground. Then I drive forward (this assumes you aren't stuck already) until the tire is over the block. This frees the chain from the tire and allows you much more slack. Don't put the block in the center of the chain run or you'll have to fight to connect both chains ends at the top of the tire. Much easier to drape one long end over and connect near the bottom of the tire.

2. Tire chains are always too short to connect easily, or at all in some situations (as in already being stuck) so the first thing I do with a new set, besides making sure they fit the tires, is extend the outside chain end. The inside link will always connect since you do it first. Buy 6" of similar chain and a screw carabineer of similar size. Hook up the chain as tight as you can on the tire and put one of those rubber tensioners they give you with the tire chains on the link end and pull it to the opposite side to keep it from flopping around. Drive a few hundred yards and check if you have to tighten things up.

3. Buy more of those rubber chain tensioners.

With regard to Peter H's suggestion of a hoe to dig out snow from under a car. I must admit I never thought of that. He is absolutely correct in that a regular shovel is useless. The angle of the shovel blade causes it to ride up into the bottom of the car rather than along the ground and snow shovels are too weak to shift hard snow and ice although they are perfect for powder snow if you start shoveling before the disturbed snow sets up hard.

What I use is a shovel called a D-handle sharpshooter. It's 31'' long and it has a D-handle at the top and a long thin straight blade with no pitch on the other end. The blade will go through most anything and it can be swept sideways to remove lose stuff. The D-handle allows full control. Mine has a metal handle and is over 20 years old. Most of my shovels (always with fiberglass handles) wear out the blades in a couple of years of constant use. This one is now 4" shorter but has followed me to Australia and back.

I've used this shovel as a pry bar, brush and small tree cutter and I once whacked a gang member with it outside Denver's old airport. It's as useful a tool as you could hope to find.
This brings me to further point. A sharpshooter shovel in a car or even in your hand generates no interest from the police or anybody else, but [if kept sharpened] it's actually the best edged weapon I can think of this side of a broad sword. It works just fine and if you ever have to defend your actions after the fact, a shovel sounds a whole lot better to the authorities than does a sword, ax, knife, etc. When the cops were called over the gang member incident, I was asked what I hit him with and I said " a shovel" The cop said I should have hit him twice. Of course it helped that I whacked the guy with the flat rather than decapitating him with the edge.

Kind regards to you and your Wife, - LRM Perth, Western Australia





Eugene in Anaheim sent this: New Cash Steered to Clunkers

Thanks to Karen H. for this: America's Recession 'Safe Zone' Shrinking

From The Daily Bell: Bob Chapman on gold, silver, a bank holiday and the monetary elite

Regulators shut down banks in five states; Regulators close banks in Fla., NJ, Ohio, Okla., Ill.; 69 US bank failures this year

Items from The Economatrix:

Weiss: Urgent Financial and Economic Crisis Investment Strategy Update "It’s only fair to acknowledge that the economic depression I foresaw in my book and in my reports is unfolding more slowly than I had expected. ... the next phase of the crisis we’ve been warning you about has been delayed, ... [But] my long-term outlook has not changed by one iota! All of this simply means that the calm before the next phase of this financial storm may be prolonged."

US Government Yuan Bond Threat to US Dollar

Why You Should Not Bank on Banking Stocks


Commodities Still a Lot More Attractive than Stocks

Why Food Prices are Set to Rocket

Squeeze on Pay, Benefits May Crimp Recovery



Karen H. recommended this piece over at the Utah Prepper's site: Making Better Char Cloth

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Trent H. and GG were the first of nearly a dozen readers to send us this Wall Street Journal piece that is right up our alley: Hollywood Destroys the World The new wave of disaster movies and TV shows isn't about staving off the apocalypse. It's what happens afterwards that counts. Viggo Mortensen versus the cannibals.

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SurvivalBlog just became a featured blog at AmmoLand.com

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What part of "no jurisdiction" don't they understand? Up in arms over gun: Replica rifle has Brooklyn man at odds with cops (Thanks to Tom V. for the link.)



"If you could borrow $4 trillion at 6% interest, your interest payments alone would be $240 billion per year, $548 million per day, $761,000 per second." - Martin Weiss (author of The Ultimate Depression Survival Guide)


Sunday, August 2, 2009


The first post today is a guest article about Tibetan Yaks. The Memsahib and I raised ultra-wooly black yaks, back in the mid-to-late 1990s. We found them quite easy to manage. Our first yak bull ("Yukon Yak") bred our Jersey cow, but unfortunately, she threw a bull calf. (We were hoping for a heifer.) Our senior yak cow ("Yetta") originated from a Canadian zoo, and was far from tame! But all of her offspring including our first bull calf ("Black Yak Pershing") were very gentle. I'll never forget their distinctive "Uggh, uggh" yak grunts, and the strange sight of their purple tongues!

We sold our little herd of nine yaks in 1998, since I had accepted a job with Oracle Corporation in the San Francisco Bay Area, and could not afford to buy or even rent a house with sufficient pasture land there. We really wish that we had been able to keep them. Yaks are well worth the investment, and quite easy to fence and handle. But, as with any other bovine, never turn your back on a bull!

This is the first entry for Round 24 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The winners will receive even more prizes than in previous rounds. For example, we've added a HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com.

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze-dried foods, courtesy of Ready Made Resources., and C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $345 value).

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 24 ends on September 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Tibetan Yaks in America? Why yes, about 5,000 of them, and growing. Why yaks? They are the most versatile animal whether you operate a retreat with livestock or plan to Get out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.)

Yaks can be yoked to pull for logging, farming, or transport. They can pack upwards of 250 pounds which I believe is more than llamas, donkeys or most horses. This is great if you want to carry a yurt or hunt elk and want to pack it out instead of dressing out in the field. Yaks can be ridden like horses and basically fill the same niche as an ox or riding steer. They are much more intelligent than cows and are almost as intelligent as smart horses.

They are also loyal and protective guard animals, but are quiet (making only an occasional low grunting sound) when stealth is required and they lay down quietly during the night. They are genetically programmed to be able to successfully defend against wolves and dogs. They have gorgeous large curved horns and hooves that are extremely accurate and precise in finding their target. They are spirited and easygoing, looking like giant horned long-haired bunnies leaping, spinning, and racing around the field.

They are of medium size for a bovine with cows maxing out at about 900 pounds and steers or bulls maxing out at about 1,500 pounds. They can be crossed with other cattle to produce much larger animals due to hybrid vigor. However, bigger isn’t always better and while a pureblood yak eats only about 1% of its body weight per day (1,000 pound yak will eat 10 pounds of hay), a hybrid, depending on whether its ½, ¼, 1/8, etc. will eat 3-to-8% of its body weight per day similar to other cattle. They need only regular pasture grass and grass hay and a mineral block. Grain (wet COB , oats, calf manna, etc.) should only be fed occasionally as a training tool and treat. Don’t feed them alfalfa. Its too rich for them and they have an increased chance of bloating.

Yaks very seldom have the birthing problems of the modern cow. They will calve unassisted in the field. Sometimes you may have to go looking for the calf depending on your set up. Occasionally the cows don’t show and you end up with surprise calves.

Yak meat has a delicious and delicate beef-like flavor. It is very low in fat as the fat layer is put down on the outside of the carcass and is easily trimmed off. It is deep red in color, high in protein and Omega 3 fatty acids, and low in calories, saturated fats, cholesterol and triglycerides. [JWR Adds: Yak beef has the lowest cholesterol of any beef variety, while yak milk has one of the highest butterfat contents. What a great combination for prepared families that want make butter!]

Their milk has a high fat content and makes exceptional butter, cheese, and even ice cream. The traditional Tibetan methods of preparation and storage without refrigeration takes a bit of getting used to for the Western palate, but worth trying to prepare for the time when refrigeration may not be easy to come by.

Yak fiber is comparable to cashmere or angora. It is the downy undercoat that sheds off during the spring and can be combed out, collected and processed. The courser outer hair or ‘guard hair’ on the legs, mane, and belly can be used to weave tents, ropes, and belts. There is also the hide, and leather which can be tanned in yak butter, horn, and bone which can be made into many very useful and durable products.

Their manure is more valuable than gold, in my opinion. It is great fertilizer, doesn’t have a foul odor at all and can be dried burned as fuel straight into the wood stove, or become methane fuel in a biodigester.

I have less than 10 acres outside of Salem, Oregon and two acres are fenced pasture for the yaks, so far. I have three yaks right now - Tashi and Misha are my heifers, and Mouse is my bull. They’ll be two years old in September when I can start training them to ride. I have them trained in the yoke and have recently started adding more weight. Yaks will need between 3 and 5 sizes of yokes during their lifetime.

I’ve been using Tashi and Mouse to pull down fallen trees out of my “forest” I don’t have the resources yet to get a wagon and some working ox-drawn farming implements but I’m working toward that. The yaks are coming along well with packing too especially now that I have wooden pack saddles and tack and saddle bags made from yak guard hair and yak leather tanned in yak butter. When my yaks were calves, finding dog backpacks and later llama packs was difficult for me. For some reason packs were scarce at the time. Now the packs are everywhere.

It is best to start training almost from day one. Get them used to being touched all over, brushed, and bathed. Make these positive experiences. I got my three when they were 3 and 5 months old which is just fine if you establish a good bond and train consistently. You and your team/herd will progress much faster. I had some problems surrounding work and a 2 hour commute and wasn’t as consistent with my training as I should have been. Fortunately my yaks’ intelligence and our strong bond made it possible for us to make up for lost time.

Patience, persistence, consistency, discipline, and kindness are the keys to success. While yaks can be very cuddly and sweet, as with any bovine you must make sure they know who’s boss and remind them. You must never mistreat them or make them afraid. However, you must ensure that they never even think to challenge you or get away from you. If they are allowed to do that too often then it will be much harder for you to get them to do what you want them to do. A well placed tap to the knees or head with a stick, is usually all it takes to remind them if they get out of line.

Whether you yoke them or pack with them or not you need to teach them the basic commands – Git up (move forward), Back up, Whoa, Gee (go right), Haw (go left). Combine these verbal commands with consistent hand signals until the yaks will follow either verbal or hand signals. Then you will be able to command your yaks when silence is necessary.

Yaks, once trained, are very dependable on the road. They are a hit at parades. So if you decide to G.O.O.D. when TSHTF the yaks are naturals to carry your equipment and supplies. They can be driven as is traditionally done in Tibet, or they can be led on a halter and rope. They are fine with caravanning too, but they may jostle one another more than other pack animals. So just be aware if that happens and either work with them to minimize that or pack accordingly. My personal preference is to keep their spirited nature intact. There is a bit more risk, but you end up with a more alert and intelligent animal

There are some valuable resources available resources out there such as www.IYAK.org , www.tillersinternational.org, www.ridingsteers.com , www.ruralheritage.com , www.springbrookranch.com, www.prairieoxdrovers.com/  and www.berrybrookoxsupply.com. In September, my own site www.oxzenacres.com will be up and running where you can check up on the progress of my little yak herd.



James:
I want to warn readers about selling sterling and coin silver and other "scrap" [precious] metal silverware and jewelry. Most of the buyers out there are not reputable, and only pay a small fraction of the real "melt" value. You'll get the best prices by selling directly to the silver foundry-type operations.

To make sure that you get paid properly, first weigh your pieces on an accurate scale.

Wikipedia says: "Sterling silver is an alloy of silver containing 92.5% by weight of silver and 7.5% by weight of other metals, usually copper. The sterling silver standard has a minimum millesimal fineness of 925."

So... When selling ["Sterling" marked silver] for scrap, you multiply the weight of your pieces by .925. That gives you the actual silver weight.

If you don't have a Troy ounce scale, then you will have to convert (calculate) regular [avoirdupois] ounces to Troy ounces.

[JWR Adds: A Troy ounce is 480 grains,whereas an avoirdupois ounce is 437.5 grains. (There are 12 Troy ounces to a Troy pound, not 16!) To convert: Multiply the number of avoirdupois ounces by .912 to get the approximate number of troy ounces. And I should also mention that "Coin" silver jewelry --often marked "Dollar", "D", or "900" is .900 fine.]

Then figure that a legit scrap buyer will only pay you about 70% of the silver value, based on the days's spot price. That may not sound like much, but you have to take into consideration their handling costs, fuel and labor costs for melting, and them compensating for their occasionally getting gypped by people that include some fake "Sterling" pieces that are actually just silver plate. So, 70% is actually pretty fair, considering.

The rip off artists that mentioned only pay about 20% to 30% of spot. So, like I say, beware! - Glenn in Atlanta

 

Hi Jim,

Regarding sterling silverware, I'd like to mention that Northwest Territorial Mint will buy sterling silver flatware and other [scrap] silver items.

They are are an honest outfit, as you know. - JM3







Craig K. sent us this: Germans Hoarding Traditional Light Bulbs

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Congressmen "fearful for their safety" as town hall meetings "run wild" (Thanks to F.G. for the link.) Gee, it sounds like the "Angry Villager Rule" from Dungeons and Dragons. Perhaps the sale of tar and feathers should be banned, just in case.

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House Approves Overhaul of Food Safety Regulations Some claim that this would give the US Government total control over food production.

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Five Freedoms You'd Lose in Healthcare Reform



"The president has got to stop promising renewed growth. While this would affect the perceived "standard-of-living" as measured in things like shopping mall sales and vehicle miles driven, it would not necessarily mean diminished "quality-of-life." It would mean different ways-of-life for a lot of people -- for instance, young adults who had expected lifetime employment as corporate executives but who, instead, find themselves ten years from now working at farming. We have an awful lot to get real about." - James H. Kunstler (author of The Long Emergency)


Saturday, August 1, 2009


We've completed the judging!

The first prize winner for Round 23 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest is Mike S., for his article GPS for Day-to-Day Use and Survival. He will receive: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze-dried entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.)

The second prize winner is Extraman, for his article Going the Extra Mile in Amateur Communications. He will receive a "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

The third prize winner is Carla, for her article Savings and Self-Sufficiency with Homemade Laundry Detergent. She will receive a copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Runner-up prizes go to four writers:

Chris M., for It Will Be Skills, Not Gear That Will Count in TEOTWAWKI

Skyrat, for The Jump Kit

Bill in Chicagoland, for Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009

Tall Sally, for Three Rules for Persuading the Sheeple

They will each receive a $30 Amazon.com gift certificate.

Note to prize winners: Please e-mail me your snail mail addresses (both UPS and US mail), and I'll get your prizes out, right away.

Today we begin Round 24 of the writing contest. Round 24 will end on September 30th, and will feature even more prizes! Get busy writing, and e-mail us your entry.



SurvivalBlog Readers:
Are you trying to find small towns to evaluate for potential relocation? I've been wrestling with the process and have found it tedious at best. There is a web site, however, that can be a valuable resource: City Data. If you follow this link you will come to a page that has the states listed. Click on the state you are interested in Idaho, for example. This link takes you to a list of cities with a population over 6,000. There is a link at the top of the page that lists towns and villages with a population between 1,000 and 6,000. Follow that link and your are presented with a list of towns and their population (Bovill and Troy are under 1,000). When you select a town it will display detailed demographics (try Orofino). While the amount of detail varies, it contains a wealth of data that we are interested in. In general you will at least find population, gender, age, ethnicity, education, and income statistics. Some pages also contain information about occupation (is this a farming town?) the nearest medical facilities, population density, distance to major population centers, crime, climate, local government and more. It is a fantastic starting place to refine the search for your ideal location. - Scrod

JWR Replies: It has been several years since City Data web site has been mentioned in SurvivalBlog. It is still a good one! I also like the Moving.com web site's relative cost comparison calculator.

OBTW, take a look at this population density map of the US, Mexico, and Canada. Sometimes a picture truly does tell a thousand words. And on a global scale, The Human Footprint Composite Map hosted by NASA's web site is similarly enlightening.

See my Recommended Retreat Areas static page for some detailed retreat locale suggestions. And even greater detail (including some useful maps) is available in my book "Rawles on Retreats and Relocation". OBTW, although it is now a bit dated, I also recommend the book Strategic Relocation by Joel Skousen.

Choosing a retreat locale is a not a "one size fits all" process. A lot of your decision making will be predicated on your work and family situation, your stage in life, and your preference for a particular climate. Differences in gun laws are important to many SurvivalBlog readers. (See Boston's Gun Bible by Boston T. Party, for a detailed state-by-state comparison.) Taxes are another determining factor. For some of us, property taxes are more important than income taxes.
I suggest prayer and extensive study before traveling to look for retreat property.



Mister Rawles:
We know having a supply of junk silver is a good idea, and we're working slowly toward that goal. What would you suggest for those that have inherited sterling flatware or serving pieces? Not many people seem to use them anymore, we sure don't, but it's hard to sell them for cash in today's economic climate. Do they have any value as trade items in a SHTF scenario? What would you suggest doing with these old family items that don't hold sentimental value for us? Thanks! - Susan W.

JWR Replies: Unless they have sentimental value, I recommend selling (or trading) silverware, and getting a like value of pre-1965 quarters. Those 90% silver quarters will be much more recognizable and trusted for barter--not to mention that they will be in much more convenient divisible units.



Jim,
CRW points out that:
If you had $1,000 in 1900, you could have bought 50 ounces of gold with it, yet today, a thousand bucks will buy only about one ounce of gold Clearly, gold has held its value better than numbers on paper. Fine, but that's a fairly useless observation.

Consider: gold doesn't hold its value as well as other things. The overall consumer price index has increased by a factor of only about 32:1 during the same time; that is, gold has failed to hold its value relative to consumer products, primarily because refined gold was already as good as it could get but other products have increased in intrinsic quality and value.

And consider this: you could also have invested your money in 1900 in an interest-bearing savings account at an average rate of return of four percent per year (conservatively less than the actual historical average), and today you'd have almost $72,000. You could get about 72 ounces of gold with that. In other words, keeping your money in gold would have lost you some of your money relative to investing it even at a low, reliable interest rate.

Or you could have invested your money in stocks.

From January 1900 to June 2009, stocks in the Dow Jones Industrial Average appreciated from an index value of 66.1 to 8,447, a ratio of 12s8 to 1. If you'd given up your gold in 1900, you could have turned it into 128 ounces of gold today, in spite of all the stock-market crashes between then and now.

Over the same time, the S&P composite index appreciated from 6.1 to 921.9, a ratio of 151 to 1. Even better. (And I note that even this result represents an average rate of return of only a little over 4.7%-- which shows that the stock market isn't necessarily better in the long run than safe interest-bearing accounts. This conclusion should not surprise anyone, since the returns from these accounts tend to come from the same kinds of business investments that underlie the stock markets, but it's not generally well understood.)

Inflation isn't even in the top 20 of things people need to worry about or prepare for today.

You already correctly advise people to buy durable goods instead of gold. Naive comments like CRW's only distract people from that message.

- PNG

JWR Replies: While his premise does disregard the macro-level investing world, it does illustrate gold's relative stability versus non-invested paper currency. (What is commonly termed "mattress money.") It is often mentioned by Austrian School economists that a century ago, one ounce of gold would buy a good men's suit. It still will, but a $20 bill certainly won't. Nor will a German 20 Papiermark note. (And the later Mark notes went to almost zero in 1923.)

I cannot over-emphasize this: Gold is not an "investment". It is merely a safe store of value in times of monetary crisis. Neither I, nor writer CRW have suggested "investing" in gold. For absolute safety, there are very few stores of wealth that can match gold. Granted, on average, stocks would have gained more than gold. But diversified risk wasn't an option until advent of the first mutual fund in 1928. (The Wellington Fund.) Countless individual stocks have gone bust, and their certificates are now only good for wallpaper. And, granted, savings compounded in an interest-bearing bank account would have also gained more than gold. But until the advent of the FDIC, lots of individual investors lost money in bank failures, too.

I believe a balanced investing portfolio should include some precious metals, but only after key logistics have been secured. To clarify: hedging with some silver and gold is only appropriate after you have your beans, bullets and Band-Aids set aside.





Laura H. spotted this: Congressman: Smart Grid Can be Wiped Out by Electromagnetic Weapons

   o o o

S.T. highlighted this: The Bed Bunker. I suppose that if two modules were bolted together, then it might be fairly hard to tote away. But I'd feel a lot better if the entire unit were bolted to the floor or to a wall. The "up on legs" design makes it far too convenient for a miscreant to apply leverage via a large iron bar, or perhaps even a pallet jack, if they planned ahead. (Far too many gun safes get hauled away by burglars!) I suppose that this design might have some utility for someone that is short on storage space. Note: I assume that the locks use double-cut keys. (tamper-resistant), but that is no substitute for a proper vault lock with multiple locking bars and a re-locking mechanism. (Technically, this is a gun locker--not a proper vault.) I'd only recommend buying these lockers if space were at a premium.

   o o o

Reader Krys W. advises: "Read between the lines in this article": Power Shifts in Plan for Capital Calamity

   o o o s

Thanks to the several readers that answered my query on finding unleaded fuel spouts for Scepter military fuel cans (MFCs). This source in British Columbia sells the small-diameter variety: D.S. Tactical



“Oh, I have lost some of the fights I’ve been in, some sudden little dustups for which I wasn’t well-prepared and a couple of larger ones in which I was mostly just involved as a bit player. If you really want to win you can always be certain to pick in advance a much weaker opponent and crush him, but that’s bullying. Or you can take on someone who outclasses you and really deserves a good beating, and wait for a chance when he’s not in his best shape, though you may have a long wait.

But I’ve never lost a scrap with an opponent whose pants were on fire, while he was swatting at angry hornets buzzing around his mouth and eyes, and while rattlesnakes nipped at his ankles. The trick is to be ready for the hornets, snakes and assorted secondary fires yourself.

By the way: this also applies to political fights on a national scale as much as it does to one in the parking lot behind the local roadhouse....” - H.J. Halterman, Along the Way, 2009

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