March 2010 Archives


Wednesday, March 31, 2010


Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

CAUTION: For the foregoing, all the usual chemistry lab safety rules apply!!!



Chemistry.  Say the word, and the average survivalist might cringe.  It brings up memories of a boring teacher in high school, or images of mad scientist lab with all sorts of beakers and tubes and glassware or long complicated formulas with strange symbols.

In reality, chemistry can help every survivalist have an ace up their sleeve. It’s just a matter of knowing a few tricks of the trade.  You don’t have to know how to build a rifle to fire it well, or how to run a large farm to have a garden.  It’s a matter of fundamentals, of simple things right there in front of your eyes.

Safety Proviso: This information is provided for educational purposes only.  While this information is scientifically sound, any experimentation with chemicals is dangerous. Any attempt to use this information is at your own risk and I take no liability or responsibility for your actions.

There has been talk in SurvivalBlog and in books about some aspects of this idea from articles about stills and making your own drinking alcohol to biodiesel.  You can read about soap making, and learn about lye.  But, what is left out is, where are you going to get the materials to do these things?  All of these articles presume a level of social collapse or destruction to put you or your group on a high self sufficiency level, not a 2 weeks and we get back to normal production situation, but do not take the next step to help the average survivalist find what they need.

For the purpose of this article, I create the following scenario:  You and your group have emerged from the initial danger period.  The looters have for the most part been driven off, gone away, died off, or are not a high level threat.  But, there will be no normal level of resupply or production for any foreseeable future if at all.  And while stores have been looted, there may still be a number of valuable items to look for, if you know what they are and what you can do with them and it is assumed you don’t have any of these items on hand.  Now is the time for a forage party to head out.

The first thing to look for is the “tools“ of the trade, starting with a still. A still is key for making drinking alcohol, along with its use in distilling water.  You can find plans for all types in many survival articles and books, but for this purpose I will keep it as simple as I can, literally.  Yes, a standard #10 juice can opened in the traditional manner by a “church key” leaving a triangular opening on each side.  Next you need a number of items that if you find them, take as many as you can carry.  First is a metal tube.  You’ll find one, if no place else, in any electric percolator in any looted store.  No one would take one of those.  Next is a little trickier.  You need a candy thermometer. Odds are no looter wanted one of them and you’ll find it in your housewares section of a number of store chains.  Now, look for rubber tubing with the inside diameter to fit over the metal tube. This you can find at the auto section or an auto supply store.  Do NOT use them from any vehicle as they have carried in them poisonous materials.  Lastly, you need a child’s toy plastic bucket, or if nothing like that can be found, the bottom of an empty bleach bottle.

Assembly is easy.  Place whatever is to be distilled inside the can. (Picking up a few funnels along the way wouldn’t hurt any.)  Cut the metal tube to a 2 inch piece. Put the rubber tubing over 1 inch of the tubing.  Place in the other triangular opening so that the rubber tubing seals it also.  Now, the placement of the candy thermometer will vary with the type.  If it is a spike/dial version, plug the one triangular opening with a cork, or piece of doubled rubber tubing, and stick the thermometer directly through the can lid. If it is a board mounted type, remove it from the board, insert through a 1 inch piece of the rubber tubing and place in the triangular opening so that you can see the 200 degree mark.  If you are using a gallon bleach bottle, cut the bottle at the point where the neck meets the bottom.  Save the top part; it also is useful as a large funnel. With either container, make an x cut in the side about ¼ inch from the bottom a little smaller than the outside diameter of your rubber hose. With one end of the rubber hose attached to the can, push the other end through from the inside; the hose will seal the hole. Coil the rest of the hose in the container. Add water for cooling.  The water need not be drinkable.  Put the can over your heat source, be it a grill, a wood fire, or a camp stove burner.  Plan on making different stills for different purposes, as some will be for items you will consume, such as water or drinking alcohol, others will be for poisonous, but useful items.

In the pet supply section, look for an air stone used in aquariums. It is a short tube that leads into a porous stone end.  Take any plastic tubing and connections there are.  If you find any coffee filters--the ones used in the coffee makers--buy as many as you can, as well as any Pyrex measuring cups and glass bowls you can get. And from the hardware or automotive section, try to find a pair of goggles or a face shield.

While there are even more items to be found for your “lab“, these will do for the purposes of what you are about to make.

As it has been written about in numerous places, you can make your own alcohol. But fermenting a “mash” out of various scrap items and yeast takes practice. While you are getting the hang of it, you need not go without.  Even if you and your group don’t drink, alcohol has many other uses from medicinal to trade goods and is an ingredient in biodiesel also.  So then, where to get it?
 
The looters would have stripped any liquor from any bar, or store. But, if you go to your dollar type discount store and check out the back storage area, odds are you will find a case or two of cheap mouthwash which is about 20% drinking alcohol (40 proof give or take). This means a pint (16oz) is about 3 oz of somewhere near 180 proof. Add that 3 oz to 5 oz of water and you have 8 oz of somewhere near 60-70 proof.  If you use a quart of cheap mouthwash, you can get a pint.  Remember this is “meatball” chemistry; we don’t try for anything near lab standards. 

But, how do you get it? Ah, to the still! Add the mouthwash, and place over the heat source. The trick here is to get the mouthwash to about 200 degrees F., so the raw alcohol evaporates but not 212 degrees, so the water does not . Depending on your heat source, this can be done a number of ways, usually using blocks or bricks to get the right level.  Use a measuring cup on the other end to receive the fluid and stop when you get near 3 oz. for the pint and 6 oz per quart. (Add 10 oz of water for the 6 oz)

Now in soap making, you’ll find lye mentioned. It is also an ingredient in biodiesel making. So then, how to get it?

The first place to look is in the drain cleaner area of the stores and look for cans marked LYE.  Wear rubber gloves in case the cans or containers have been broken open as lye will severely burn the skin.  But, if for some reason you can’t find any lye, you can revert back to the pioneer days.  Take wood ash, place in a non metal bucket or your bottom of the bleach bottle after you first make your x like for the still, and place a short 2 inch piece of rubber tubing in it.  Then pour 2 quarts of water, clear but not necessarily drinkable, in from the top.  Use a plastic bucket to receive the fluid that comes out.  This will be lye, so treat it with respect!

Even this method has its limits, as there may not be that much wood ash available after the first two or three productions.  What then??  Well it’s time to go “shopping” to your nearest building supply center.  What you are looking for is lime, also known as slaked lime or hydrated lime.  You will find it in as large as 50 lbs bags, and I doubt any looter would have touched it.  If none is there, you can use quicklime.  Then it’s off to your various stores, especial your dollar type discount store.  What you are looking for is plain washing soda (Sodium Carbonate or Sodium Bicarbonate).  There are a number of store brands along with the familiar name brands.  Look around now so will recognize it later.  Take all you can find.

With your rubber gloves, and your goggles or face shield on, you are ready to mix the ingredients.  If you use quicklime, you have to mix it with an equal part of water first.   BE CAREFUL! This mix gives off a fair amount of heat.  Mix the lime and washing soda together with an equal amount of water, example 1 cup lime or quicklime in water + 1 cup washing soda + 2 cups water (1 cup if you have used the quicklime/ water mix) in a large 4 cup Pyrex measuring cup.  Heat slightly while stirring.  Once the lime, washing soda, and water are well mixed, there will be created a liquid (Lye) and a solid (Calcium Carbonate).  Using an empty, clean plastic milk jug and a funnel lined with a coffee filter, slowly pour the mix in.  The filter paper will trap the solid, which you can let dry and store in any glass jar with a lid.  Using this method on a large scale you can get a lot more yield than by wood ash.

Last, but never least, is liquid bleach.  For a time it will be generally plentiful and available, but what then?  Once more we go “shopping” for the two items we need.  The first is sold under the trade name Saniflush, and can be found almost in every store in the drain cleaner section.  There are others also that can be used, but you can spot this one right off.  Next is a variety of powdered bleaches or pool chemicals that have chlorine in them.  With your rubber gloves on, mix one cup Saniflush in an equal amount of water in a 2 cup Pyrex measuring cup.  BE CAREFUL, this also heats up.  Pour it into a clean plastic milk jug.  Get a cork from an old wine bottle, clean it and make a hole in it for a plastic tube.  You can use the tube from a plastic eye dropper with the dropper end cut off.  Then, take your rubber hose and add to one end your air stone, and put the other on the plastic tube.  Place the air stone end into a small plastic tub.  Put into the tub a mix of 9 parts water to 1 part lye.  Now, carefully crush the pool tablets into a fine powder, or use already powdered bleach and with a clean funnel add one cup to the Saniflush mix.  QUICKLY cork the jug as the chlorine gas is immediately released!  The gas will bubble up into the lye water creating bleach.  As this is “meatball “ chemistry, it will be a lot stronger that your regular store bleach.

Now you have some “building blocks“ to play with.  With your lye, you can now make soap if you have the animal fat.  You can also experiment with a form of biodiesel with the lye, alcohol and old cooking oils.  Then, there is an important item you can make easily.  Take one part bleach and one part alcohol and simmer in an open container, such as an old pot.  No cover will be needed but be careful of the fumes.  This should be done in the open or with plenty of ventilation.  Let it heat until you can see some small surface stirring, but do NOT let it boil. Continue for 5 minutes.  The result is Chloroform, valuable in many emergency medical situations.

In summation, there are many usable items overlooked in the survival area because of the belief that you have to be a chemist to know, use or make them. While there are many articles on homemade explosives, there are fewer on non-weapon improvised chemical uses.  Used C and D batteries, for example, can provide a number of valuable chemicals.  For those of you who would like to learn more, I refer you to The Golden Book of Chemistry Experiments, a book written for an 8th grade level reader, now out of print, but available as a download on eBay and other sources.

It has been said, your mind is your primary weapon for survival; feed it with basic useful knowledge.



James:

A heads-up for your readers: It has been announced that the 2009 edition of the book Passport to World Band Radio will be the last. I just bought one from the company that published it. They're still in stock and significantly less expensive than the storefronts who still carry it at Amazon. - Del

JWR Replies: Thanks for sending that news. That is disappointing, since the book is a great reference, especially the broadcast schedules. The frequency charts are bit less perishable, but I'll be sad to miss out on the updates. I'm confident the on-line references will fill that void.



Hi,
I just wanted to remind people that in some areas of the US with spring, there also comes curbside bulk item pick-up via local town and city trash service. This can provide a wealth of items from the trash of others. I have gotten so many things from this that I cannot even begin to list them all. Everything from children’s toys to hand tools to gas powered equipment such as mowers, tillers, snow-blowers, etc. Many of the items were in excellent shape and required only a clean-up. Others require a bit more work but can easily be made serviceable to those who have even a small idea what they are doing. For example, here is a link to one typical program a town in Colorado that has this service twice per year – spring and fall. When I lived in that area I used to “attend” this regularly with my pick-up and a trailer. If you have such a program in your area don’t hesitate to check it out. My only proviso is that you first check local laws to see if it is okay to take items from someone else’s trash. [Ordinances vary!] Some towns have enacted laws against this to protect against identity theft but in many cases the law applies to all trash – not just documents. Regards, - Tim P.





Talkeetna Patriot found an interesting thread about constructing a hybrid ALICE/MOLLE bag.

   o o o

Cheryl sent this: Swine Flu Season Not Over, Warn Health Officials

   o o o

The leftist CNN is in hot water, after grossly under-reporting the size of the March 27th Tea Party Express gathering in Searchlight, Nevada. They described it as "hundreds of people or at least dozens of people" of people. Many more reliable accounts said that there were at least 10,000 people there. The Mainstream Media has obviously developed a bad case of myopia.




"Ours was the first revolution in the history of mankind that truly reversed the course of government, and with three little words: 'We the People.' 'We the People' tell the government what to do; it doesn't tell us. 'We the People' are the driver; the government is the car, and we decide where it should go, and by what route, and how fast. Almost all the world's constitutions are documents in which governments tell the people what their privileges are. Our Constitution is a document in which 'We the People' tell the government what it is allowed to do. 'We the People' are free." - Ronald Reagan, Presidential Farewell Speech, Jan. 11th, 1989


Tuesday, March 30, 2010



Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



A couple of years ago I took the "red pill". Media led propaganda and the tales of success from my elder peers led me down the path of blindness. No problem there, it was, and still is, the norm. All of us are led until the day we decide to take flight on our own.

Sometimes its one incident that starts us down that new path of enlightenment; Haiti, Chile, Southern Louisiana, 9-11-01. Sometimes it is a series of unfortunate events; loss of the head of household, halving of investments or retirement funds, cut in pay or hours or loss of job, mountain of debt, higher prices for the things you want, higher prices for life sustaining needs, inability to sell your house, and on and on... However your understanding begins, it will not end until a new layer of comfort and security is built up. That will take education and preparing. Education is easy, your already doing it. Preparing is doing, and thus more difficult. Preparing is the act of buying a product, attending a class, physically practicing the skills on your list of things that you feel you will need to know. The actions of preparing will ultimately lead to a better life for you if you are willing to take the journey. TEOTWAWKI may not happen in ours or even our grandchildren's lifetimes, I pray that it does not, but we will all be better prepared for the multiple times that TSHTF in and around our lives.

I was told before that the best way to learn is from your own mistakes. I have found that to be true, and false, in my lifetime. More often than not, it is far better to learn from other peoples' mistakes and triumphs. That is why we seek out education and training, so that we can learn from others who have the knowledge and are where we want to be. It is far worse, however, to fail to learn from those mistakes and triumphs. The mistakes and corrections that I have made in the start of my journey is the foundation of this essay. My own failure to learn from mine and others errors and experience, or more precisely, my failure to act on that knowledge.

I am sure that all of the veteran preppers with decades under their belt can still recall the bliss of ignorance felt prior to "getting it". I know that I already do and I am quite sure that my lovely wife does, too. It is a scary proposition that all of the blessings and amenities we live with now can be gone in the amount of time between snooze button presses. And that is my first point. Try very hard to keep your life in perspective. The more education you take on, the wider your eyes get, the more that you see that is otherwise unseen, the darker your future will look without preparation. The world is still spinning, the seasons still change, there are only and always 24 hours in a day, and most importantly, your family is always growing. Your new found knowledge will create a since of urgency that needs to be kept under wraps. The time for panic will be left for those caught with their pants down, yours are not. Don't quit your day job, yet. Don't skip out on your children's [social] functions or worse yet, discourage them with the thought that it won't matter in the future. Don't inundate your spouse with facts, details, and rants as to why they need to get on board right now. They will follow you, they won't be pushed, no one will. Your spouse is the most important member of your team. They will be with you no matter how big or small your group gets. None of us ever want to have to go through our worst case scenarios but we still think about them. We prepare for them so that they won't become the worst case. That is stressful enough as it is so if the burden lays solely on your shoulders for the time being, let it lay.

We all do want to go through our best case scenarios, so remember to also spend time preparing for them, and doing them. Don't forget to play and have fun and enjoy the things we have while we still have them. Take your planning and prepping in stride, Tappan and Rawles did not do it in a day, or a year I assume, so how can you. Whatever preparing that you did prior to the balloon going up is what you did. Ten years is better than two, and one year is better than a month. I assure you though, even one week is far better than the majority of the continent's inhabitants. Live your life.

I am a list guy. My to do list has grown exponentially recently. With that said, I found it very easy to pick the tasks that I would enjoy first, I am human and that's our nature. When I first heard "Beans, Bullets, and Band-aids" it seemed so easy and clear to me. Beans, I like to cook, I like to eat, I have a basement. I went to the store and bought canned stuff with a touch of pride realizing how far ahead of the mob I was. Bullets, well that was easy too, I am former Army, I have duck hunting experience and shotguns, and I like guns. Band-aids, I am a EMT-Fireman so that's covered too...or so I thought.

I gravitated pretty quickly to pumping up my guns and ammo collection. Its a fun hobby and great training. Its what I know and enjoy so what better excuse can you have to buy more, than in the name of defending your family in the coming "end times" (not to be-little that justification, just don't put all of your attention on it). I spent a couple of bucks on a jump bag for my truck to stock up on some EMS supplies if needed while mobile. I stocked up the first-aid kit's at home too. I did start to look at all of the other things on my ever growing list and decided to start prioritizing them. I saw an opportunity that I could not afford to miss, the ability to gather knowledge at my house. What I mean is that the list grew to cover so many topics, so many studies, that it would take a decade to learn the basics of each, let alone get any hands on experience. Rather than wait to learn I decided to buy the "best" books on the topics, no need to list them here as it is pretty much Survivalblog's bookshelf.

My word of caution here is that as they started to arrive it became overwhelming very quick. For all of the books that came in that I will one day read, my wife was listing child-rearing books that I should have already read and need to read first. I have assured her that I will, and that these are simply a hard copy reference section of our library for the future. That said, it was also a relief to me to keep in mind that while I hope to never need to be leafing through Carla Emery's book under candle light, the safety net is there. If the grid goes down and all I have is a list of books and skills to read and learn, I would have been quite disappointed in myself for only making a list. That may have been the last time for generations to come that all the knowledge of the world was at our fingertips.

I was still lacking in the beans department. I had not set a high enough priority on food yet so I ordered the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course course to try to get me into gear. It was then that I learned about the disparities in shelf lives and FIFO rotation, about where and how to shop, how to determine quantities of needed supply, about what items on my food list were top priority. My wife and I joined an Adult-Ed course where we were both exposed to canning for the first time, highly recommended. If there are no courses formally taught near you, or no one in your family has any experience with canning then visit a senior center near you and adopt a lonely senior citizen for a few weeks to have them show you the ropes. You may just improve the lives of more than one person with a move like that. But I digress...

Starting with the Beans portion of preparation is so vital in this equation it can not be over stated. Any veteran prepper will tell you that a well laid plan is always evenly spread across all fields. I will tell you as a rookie prepper that your food is first and more food comes after that and then comes the rest. This leads nicely into the most important advice that I can give to people. When I started to focus on food, I did. It may have been my last focus where it should have been my first, but that is not the mistake I made that I hope at least one reader may learn from my experience.

Water is food! It is the most important food as a matter of fact. I know that my wife is rolling her eyes as she reads this, God bless her, as she has told me time and time again how I need to stop drinking the tap water and to drink only filtered water. My only attempt at water storage thus far had been to recycle all the bottles of water that I bought for her to drink. I refill them with tap water and collect them in the basement next to the new cases of bottled water. I know enough now that tap water stored in 16oz bottles will be no good to drink but those were to serve as our hygiene water if needed, or to boil and drink even though that is not (as I understand it) best. While doing this I still had a feeling that I was missing something huge in my planning. I did buy some iodine tabs, big kettles for boiling, a couple hand pump filters that are designed to last a few hundred gallons or so but I still felt that huge gap. None of those options had any long term viability. Where to go from here but to ask the expert! As it turns out, the solution was quite simple. So simple in fact, dear reader, that I simply did not pay attention at the time, nor did I put the top priority in its proper place. In everything that I have read, water seemed to be the first thing mentioned, the authors point was always that you will die in 72 hours without water. Why I missed the obvious need to prioritize that as number one, I can only speculate. Seeing as it was so recently though I think I know, and I think too, that it is a common fear of other rookie preppers. You have to learn about something you don't want to, which is always difficult.

Understand this much, no matter how much of whatever you have today, if your not drinking pure H2O every day, your time is limited. All of those things you had become just that, things that you had. Does it not make since to understand without a moment of doubt, the only thing that you really need to sustain life is the only thing that you can not have enough of? You need to determine first and foremost where and how you will have a long term potable water supply. I regret waiting as long as I did to act on this which leads me to believe that other new members to the survival fraternity may try to set the need for water aside for to long, too.

How much time do people spend on fantasy baseball teams, channel surfing, x-box (yes adults included), and the like. How much time do we spend self educating ourselves on things of interest (and yes I know the crowd I am speaking to). The true test comes in asking ourselves what percentage of that time we could be spending studying the things that we have little interest in, no knowledge of, are difficult, yet are so vital to our current and future lives.

I will not get into the details of why I feel that a Berkey water filtration system is the absolute best solution to water purification. I will not explain why and how simple it is to collect rain water for gardening, open source collection, and storage. My challenge to you is to educate yourself and come to your own conclusion on what will work best in your given situation for what should now be, if it was not before, your number one priority.

I spent a year in the Big Sandbox living with the knowledge that water was the most important need, yet I still missed the call to action in my home life to immediately supply my own family with a sustainable source of drinking water. Please do not make the same mistake that I did and put water first on your list.

In conclusion, for those of us who can still taste the red pill and have doubts or regrets about not choosing the blue pill, its too late (to put it nicely). Having simply entered SurvivalBlog's web site then you have proven already that you at least have an inkling of knowledge that at some point in the future all that we know and love may be gone in a flash.

You have the ability right this moment to start preparing for the worst, and by doing so, the worst will not be as bad as it could be. Learn to educate yourself by following the examples of those who are willingly guiding you, sharing their mistakes so that you do not have to make them, and sharing their achievements so that you can follow them. Build yourself a reference library that has all of the information laid out in it now while you still have the opportunity. God forbid the ship sets sail tomorrow but a copy of "Making the Best of Basics" with dust on it will be far more valuable to you than a worn out copy of "Call Of Duty" (the video game, guys) when the lights go out for the last time.

While you are on this path of preparing for the worst, never forget to prepare for the best. Your family needs you now, more than they need you in the future.

Most importantly, put a lot of thought into prioritizing what you do first, second, and so on. 72 hours is not a long time in the grand scheme of things but it will be your purgatory if you chose not to act on the advice of those ahead of you. It could have been the peril of my family and neighbors had I not broke through whatever it was holding me back from putting the effort into educating myself just because it felt difficult. I sleep well now, and you will too, once you prioritize your life and start to feel prepared for the future.



James,
The recent Webley letters are particularly interesting to me since I own a 92 year old Mk 6 Webley converted to .45 ACP. I reload for most of my 34 guns. 49 years of reloading with never even a blown primer, and only 2 duds (no powder) in 49 years with thousands upon thousands of reloads, makes me feel somewhat qualified to write this. castboolits.com is a lead bullet reloading and casting site to which I belong. Common knowledge there is that Webleys, even Mk. 6s are not suitable for even factory .45 ACP factory load pressures. One of the top Gurus recently told me that shooting factory .45 ACP loads in a converted Webley is like proofing it each time you fire it, and will eventually shake it loose. He recommended 5.2 grains of Unique behind a 250 gr. lead SWC as his top load. After that, I pulled all my 5.5 gr. Unique loads, and even went lower to 5 gr. Unique/250 gr./.452 lead. All warnings to this load data apply here. Naturally you will find some hot shot who loads his Webley to maximum .45 ACP+P+ pressures and gets away with it. These revolvers are old, and the steels, and heat treatments are not what we have now. To compound the chamber pressure problem, many Webleys, mine included, have .449 chamber throats. I bought a chamber throat reamer from Brownell's, and reamed them out to .452. This lowered pressure and also increased the accuracy, allowing me to recently outshoot my 'ol buddy from Texas with his new Kimber .45. The look on his face was priceless. Ha!

For those who buy the old pre-1899 revolvers let me add a word of caution. These old sisters are 111 plus years old with many having rust and timing problems. They were mostly [designed] for black powder pressures. If you must shoot them, do it with only lead bullets, over recommended starting [velocity] loads in a reliable reloading manual, all this after a qualified gunsmith looks it over. I have my Grandfather's 125 year old S&W top-break in .38 S&W caliber. It's in very good condition, yet I will only shoot low power starting load powder charges in it. I have shot factory loads in it ages ago when I was a teenager, but no more, only my low power reloads. If you want power, get a new .44 Magnum. or better yet, a .500 S&W. Reloading is a very exacting hobby, and not for the careless, or accident prone. The thought of shooting some of the old cheaper brand pre-1899 revolvers such as H&R, Iver Johnson, Sears Roebuck types, with fresh factory ammo is scary to say the least. If one is not Born Again, don't even consider it. At best, you could only lose a finger, or two. Better safe than sorry, applies here. If your gunsmith shakes his head and hands it back to you, rest assured it makes a great shadow box addition to any den. Keep buying ammo and canned goods. Read your Bible! Mack





Trent sent this New York Times article: Push to Eat Local Food is Hampered by Shortage

   o o o

I just heard about a small company in Georgia that was founded by a retired USAF Tech Sergeant: Survival Solar Systems.

   o o o

A learning point (and OPSEC illustration) for SurvivalBlog readers: Militia group suspects charged with conspiracy. Don't associate with mad bombers and radical "lunatic fringe" types! They are bad news and bound to suck a lot of innocents into trouble! Rest assured that there are a lot of good and honorable militias out there, but the Hutarees are not one of them.

   o o o

Damon sent this one: Scientists stumped as bee population declines further



"You never know what worse luck your bad luck has saved you from." - Cormac McCarthy, "No Country for Old Men"


Monday, March 29, 2010


I just heard from SurvivalBlog reader Tom G. (who is presently deployed in Afghanistan) that a collection of my quotations is now available on Wikipedia's "Wikiquotes".

---

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Want to eat a wolfberry? How about some vaccinium jam? Some chokeberry wine? They don’t sound too appetizing, do they? Few people know it, but the fruits of these plants are not only edible, but delicious. They have unappealing names and don’t look familiar to most Americans, so if you incorporate them into your landscaping you will have a supply of fresh, nutritious fruit that your neighbors won’t recognize as food. This makes them ideal for people who must shelter in place in a small-town or suburban environment, where houses are close together and others can see what you have in your yard. In a worst-case scenario your vegetable garden may be raided and your apple tree might be picked clean, but the ravenous hordes will leave these fruits behind, assuming they are poisonous simply because they are unfamiliar.

Not everyone has a rural retreat with a spacious piece of land, so these berry bushes have the advantage of being relatively small and easy to fit into an ordinary yard. They all feature pretty flowers, shiny leaves, or other ornamental features that help them hide in plain sight, even in the most landscaped and manicured neighborhood.

All of these berries are sour, like cranberries, and like cranberries they become delicious once cooked or dried with sweetener. Their sourness comes from their high content of vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin E, and other nutrients. Most of them have more vitamin C than the same weight of oranges. These berries will not sustain life in the same way that grains and beans will, but they will provide a refreshing change of pace and will help keep your family healthy during a crisis.

These plants will grow over a wide portion of the United States; some will even grow in Canada. If a plant is not native to your area, you can still grow it if you can provide the temperature range, soil type, and moisture level that it requires. Each plant will grow in specific “Zones” of temperatures described by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. To determine what zone you live in and what you can grow, see the USDA's climate zone map.

Black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa)

This pretty little shrub is a member of the Rose family. In spring, it’s covered with large white flower clusters that shine among its glossy, dark-green leaves. Later, the flowers develop into purple-black berries. The berries are quite sour, but with sweetening they can be used to make delicious jelly, juice, and even wine. They are nutritional powerhouses, extremely high in antioxidants and other healthful nutrients.

Aronia is native to the northeastern half of the United States and southeastern Canada, and will grow in Zones 3-8. It prefers moist, rich soil and full sunlight, but will grow in drier locations and part shade; it may not produce as many berries in these locations.

Although this plant is a North American native, it has become popular in Europe, where it is used to make juice and wine. Several European varieties have been cultivated to produce larger, sweeter fruit; these varieties include “Viking” and “Nero.” An American variety is called “Morton” or “Iroquois Beauty.”

Two recipes for aronia jam appear on the web site of Raintree Nursery, which also sells the plants.

Seaberry (Sea Buckthorn; Hipphophae rhamnoides)

This is a vigorous bush or small tree that produces masses of vivid orange berries. The berries, which have a bright citrus-like taste to go with their bright orange color, are filled with vitamin A, C, E, and omega-3 fatty acids. During the Cold War, they were used in East Germany as a substitute for orange juice, and the plant is still widely cultivated in the former Soviet Union and eastern Europe.

Seaberry thrives in dry, sandy soil and full sun, and does not do well when shaded by other trees. It can grow in Zones 3-7. In order to produce fruit, you must plant at least two plants, one male and one female; male plants do not produce fruit, but feature brownish clusters of flowers. One male can pollinate up to eight female plants.

Seaberry is extremely thorny, so it can be used to create intruder-repelling hedges. Once established, the seaberry plant sends up vigorous shoots that will make a hedge even thicker and more impenetrable. The thorns make picking the berries somewhat difficult; one way around this is to cut off berry-filled branches and freeze them. Once frozen, the berries can easily be shaken off and used for juice or jam. When you extract juice from the berries, if you let the liquid settle it will separate into three layers: a creamy layer on top, oil in the middle, and juice and sediment on the bottom. Strain the juice through a coffee filter to remove the sediment and mix it with 6 parts water to one part juice, sweetened to taste.

A recipe for seaberry jelly appears on this web site.

For a recipe for seaberry schnapps, a drink that’s popular in Europe, go to this web site.

Lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea)

This unassuming plant only grows to about 8 inches high, and it makes a beautiful edible ground cover. It is evergreen, holding its shiny, deep green leaves all year. It prefers shaded, moist, acidic soil, and will grow in Zones 2-8, although it doesn’t do well in long, hot summers. It produces its crop of tangy, cranberry-like berries in the fall.

Lingonberry is native to the northern parts of Europe and North America and is closely related to cranberries and blueberries; it shares their refreshing tartness, and can be used just like cranberries, using the same recipes, to make a delicious sauce. It can also be used in muffins or to make jam. The berries are high in Vitamin C and Vitamin A, and the seeds contain omega-3 fatty acids.


Goji (Wolfberry, Chinese Matrimony Vine; Lycium Barbarum)
Goji or wolfberry, is native to China, and has been used in Chinese medicine for centuries. In recent years, the dried berries have become available at health food stores, at very high prices. Goji is a bushy vine, or viney bush, that can grow to 12 feet high and 8 feet wide; pruning will make it more of a bush than a vine. Goji has beautiful light-purple flowers that eventually become bright-red berries, which hang among the leaves like little coral earrings. The berries, which can be eaten fresh or dried, have a sweet/sour, tangy taste that is somewhat like a mix of plum, tomato, carrot, raspberry, and other flavors.

Goji is relatively trouble-free to grow and does not mind poor soil or fairly cold winters, growing in Zones 5-9. It prefers a sunny location but will grow in light shade.

You can order goji plants from nurseries, but you can also grow your own plants from seed using the dried berries. The pulp of the berries has a chemical in it that prevents the seed from sprouting, so first soak the berries in water for a couple of days. When they’re soft and mushy, carefully cut them open and scrape out the seeds. Put the seeds in a very fine strainer, like a tea strainer, and wash off all the pulp until the seeds are clean. Let them dry on a coffee filter or paper towel. Once they’re dry, you can plant them by putting them on top of the soil in a prepared pot and then lightly sprinkling a thin layer of soil over them. Keep the soil moist and when they sprout, place them in the sun or under a bright fluorescent light bulb. When the plants are a few inches high, you can transplant them outside.

Here is a recipe for goji berry rice pudding.

Evergreen Huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum)

Evergreen huckleberry is native to the western half of North America, growing from Alaska to California, but it can be grown in other parts of the country as well. The berries, which ripen in late fall, are similar to blueberries and can be dried, made into jam, juice, or pancake sauce, or cooked into delicious pies.

Because this bush keeps its glossy, dark-green leaves all year (except in the colder parts of its range), it’s an excellent landscaping bush for plantings around a home. In spring it’s covered in small white flowers. Evergreen huckleberry likes well-drained, acid soil and is one of the few fruits that actually thrives in shade. In shade, it can grow up to 6 feet high, whereas in sun it will only grow to about 3 feet high. It will grow in Zones 4-8.

Huckleberry can be used in any recipe for blueberries, but here is a recipe for huckleberry jam.

Black Elderberry (Sambucus nigra)

Black elderberry is an attractive, vigorous bush with feathery leaves; it can grow up to 12 feet high in a graceful fountain shape. The flowers are large, flat clusters, similar to Queen Anne’s Lace, making the bush very pretty when they appear in June. The flowers are edible; dipped into batter and then fried, they make delicious fritters. If left on the bush, the flowers will eventually develop into clusters of BB-sized purple-black berries that hang down heavily when they ripen in September or October.

The berries are tiny and very tedious to pick one at a time, so to speed things up, it’s best to pick the entire berry cluster, take it home, and then relax at the kitchen table while you “comb” the berries off their stems with a fork. Don’t wear clothes you care about because they will become stained with purple. Elderberry likes to grow in moist, well-drained, sunny locations, and will grow in Zones 3-10.

Elderberry fruit doesn’t taste very good fresh, and it gives many people a stomachache, but when the berries are cooked and the seeds strained out, they makes excellent syrup and jelly. Some people also make elderberry pie, leaving the berries whole; the pie is mildly crunchy from all the small seeds.

Elderberry syrup is said to help the immune system fight off viruses by preventing viruses from attaching to cell walls in the body. It’s also an excellent source of Vitamin C. Health food stores sell elderberry syrup, but it’s much more cost-effective to make your own.

One caution about elderberry: all parts of the bush except the flowers and the ripe fruit are poisonous. For safety, eat only the flowers and the fully ripe, cooked fruit. Do not eat “red” elderberry varieties, as they are poisonous. Only black varieties are safely edible.

A recipe for elderberry jelly appears on this web site.
If you make the recipe without the pectin, what you have is elderberry syrup; it will keep, once canned, for a long time.

This web site has recipes for elderflower fritters, elderflower juice drink, and elderberry soap.

Currants and Gooseberries (Ribes family species)

The plants in the Ribes family include currants, gooseberries, and jostaberries (a cross between the two). They all have juicy, tangy fruit that makes excellent juice, wine, and pies; black currant has a particularly rich, musky flavor. They grow in moist, well-drained soil, and unlike many fruiting plants, they enjoy shade and do very well when planted along the shaded north side of a house. In addition, gooseberries tend to be very thorny, so they can be an excellent intruder-repellent when planted under a ground-floor window.

These fruits are widely used in Europe, but are unfamiliar to most Americans because their cultivation was outlawed in the United States for most of the 20th century. This was because currants are a host for a virus that attacks white pine trees and other pines that bear their needles in clusters of five; they were banned to prevent the destruction of valuable timber. The federal law has since been repealed, but several states still prohibit growing these fruits. However, in many cases even these states will allow people to plant varieties of black currant that are resistant to the virus. These varieties include “Consort,” “Titania,” “Crusader,” and “Coronet” black currants. There are no resistant varieties of red currants, gooseberries, or jostaberries, so if you’re concerned about the laws or if you have pines growing in your area, check with your local agricultural extension office before planting them.

This web site has seven pages of recipes using currants.

Where to Get Unusual Berries and Learn How to Grow Them

The following nurseries, as well as many others, sell some, or all, of these plants:

Miller Nurseries
St. Lawrence Nurseries
Raintree Nursery
One Green World
Gurney’s Seed and Nursery

Nurseries will generally provide detailed growing information, but you can also find information at the following sites:

Aronia

Seaberry

Lingonberry

Goji

Evergreen Huckleberry

Elderberry

Currants and Gooseberries

Conclusion

The recipes given here are only a tiny sample of what’s available on the internet. If you grow any of these plants, take time to find and print out the recipes you like so you will have them when you need them.

All of these plants have many varieties that have been bred for different characteristics. Some varieties may have larger or sweeter fruit, may have larger or smaller growth, may ripen earlier or later, or may be adapted to unusual climates or specific soils. It’s best to check with several nurseries to see what varieties are available before buying a particular plant, because through research, you may find one that will be especially strong and productive in your area. If you live in a very cold or very warm zone, nurseries that are located within your zone are your best bet for finding plants that are especially adapted to your conditions.



Dear James Wesley,
I thought that it was about time you mentioned Webley revolvers and their variants in your blog, and was pleased to see you’re recommendation in last week’s content. I am a long time prepper, mostly through accident of geography, my family and neighbors have a unique support system and find your blog quite useful. I spent just shy of a decade in and around West Africa, and a year in Israel, which is where I first became familiar with Webleys. The British mandate left behind a wealth of practical firearms for their newly independent allies, some of which was intentional and some reallocated. The reallocation of scarce resources has been an Israeli mainstay for close to three quarters of a century and the maintenance of those resources has been an ongoing occupation. Webleys and Enfield’s became an interest and then a passion, at the time, due to the availability and durability of both. Being a machinist, anything mechanical was of interest, but Webleys in their many iterations became first a hobby, then through need and availability, a viable avocation. Through that association I have become, first, a fair to middlin’ Webley gunsmith, then an appraiser of Large and Small Bore British Military Revolvers dating from the 1880s to the mid 1940s.

The Marks I and II that you mentioned, which date from 1887 and 1894 respectively, do indeed fall into the category of antique firearms and require no ATF paperwork, but you should also take into consideration the Mark III, which is an updated Mk II with improved lock work, dating from 1897, and is a sturdier than either the MK I or II. All three of these marks were originally designed for use with black powder/cordite but are of sufficient strength to withstand a certain amount of use with modern smokeless powders as long as you don’t go over the 700 fps mark. Accuracy suffers in the Webley when you use full metal jacket ammunition, especially .45 ACP cartridges held in full or half moon clips, due to the shallow rifling in the 4 inch barrels. The original 265 grain soft lead bullet was of conical configuration and left the barrel at about 650 fps, I have found that hand loading your cartridges is the best way to recapture that accuracy, using an available 250 grain .45 caliber soft lead bullet of at least .454 diameter (intended for Long Colt revolvers) and with a velocity of between 650 and 700 fps. You will want to use either a .455 caliber sizing die, if you can find one, or a .45 Long Colt sizing which is commonly used. For cut down .455 cylinders, (re-worked for use with .45 ACP cartridges in full or half moon clips), you can use .45 Auto Rim cases sized in the .455 sizing die.

I would appreciate you not giving out my name or contact information, but can be reached through my property manager if you have any questions or need any more information about British revolvers. Sorry if I got long winded, but I’ve been waiting you to discuss Webley revolvers and wanted to get this information to you when I was at a computer.

Take Care, our thoughts and prayers go out to you over your recent loss. - The Hebrew Hobbit





Martin S. wrote to mention that he found some videotaped lectures from the University of California on Home Vegetable to be interesting.

   o o o

Grasshopper outlook strikes fear on Western range (Thanks to Jeff B. for the link.)

   o o o

SurvivalBlog's Editor At Large Michael Z. Williamson sent us this You Tube clip: So Useless, It's Awesome! Mike's comment: "Tautological running"!

   o o o

There is an interesting post over at Leon Pantenburg's site on survival knives.



"Human beings only have two ways to deal with one another: reason and force. If you want me to do something for you, you have a choice of either convincing me via argument, or force me to do your bidding under threat of force. Every human interaction falls into one of those two categories, without exception. Reason or force, that's it." - Marko the Munchkin Wrangler, in his blog essay "Why the Gun is Civilization."


Sunday, March 28, 2010


Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



I’m fairly new to SurvivalBlog but now it’s an every day read. I wanted to write and share my own journey of preparedness with you and your readers. After living with three and a half million people for about 22 years, a move to the country was long over due. I made the decision to get out of the city back in 1999, when I starting to take things a bit more seriously with all of the talk about Y2K. I was really hoping that something would have happened back then so I could test my skills at being prepared for it. I fear that those skills will be tested in the not too distant future none-the-less. Like you, I grew up in the age of bomb shelters and the threat of nuclear attack. My father was a member of the Civil Defense and I remember a small book that he gave me that showed how to build a fallout shelter in your basement. I always wished he would have done that but it never happened. What a great little fort that would have made for me and my brother, more on that later.

Anyway, I have wanted to live in the mountains since I was 12 years old so I headed out to the Rockies in search of a good bug out spot. I found just the right spot out in the middle of nowhere, 36 acres off a dirt road with the nearest Wal-Mart on the other side of the mountain range. It took another 5 or 6 years to actually be able to make the move. I was fortunate enough to start dating a like minded gal before the move and the minute we started talking about bug out bags and storing food, I knew I found myself a winner. We sold most of my furniture and put my home up for sale and were finally able to make the big move to our retreat property and start getting things situated.

Since we settled down we have been able to stock up on about two years worth of food, medical supplies, gasoline and diesel etc. To date we’ve put up about a ½ ton of wheat and a ½ a ton of corn, beans and rice. More than enough for us and enough to share with those that haven’t or couldn’t do it on their own. I love making things from scratch, so owning a welding and fabricating business has been a huge blessing as we are able to make most anything right here in the shop. And those things don’t necessarily have to be made from metal. We’ve been able to fabricate everything from a well water retrieval bucket made of pvc to our own colloidal silver generator to our bio diesel processing set-up. We converted an old exercise bike into a pedal powered grain grinder and I’ve made a lead melting pot so we can pour our own ammo and start loading it once we set up a loader. We have made a solar oven, solar air heaters for the roof of the shop and will be putting together a solar hot water heater real soon.

The shop has a small lathe, mill, drill press, cutting torch set up, MIG, TIG, Arc, and Plasma machines with two generators, sheet metal bender, notcher, roller, English Wheel and a ton of various hand tools. The hand tools will be a real important part of the operation when there is no more power from the grid and the gas for the generators runs out. We’ll be putting together a Faraday shielded box for some of our electronics in case of an EMP. In this box we will store a spare computer set up, radios, walkie talkies and anything with a circuit board that we don’t want to do without. Granted, the Internet may become a thing of the past but we have a lot of valuable information stored on hard drives and discs, we’re talking thousands of pages of info, and if we have a working computer, then we can access that info when needed.

Speaking of information, our survival library is currently at over 75 books, so at least some of our information is accessible without a computer. A few of the books and magazines that I would personally recommend would be “Dare To Prepare” by Holly Deyo, "The Self-Sufficient Life and How to Live It” by John Seymour, The Foxfire Book Series and The Mother Earth News magazine.

Every library should have books on gardening, first aid, holistic medicines and any skills that you might consider learning. It could be hunting or fishing or re-loading ammo or carpentry, canning, raising livestock or whatever peaks your interest. ‘Never stop learning’ is a good motto to hold on to. We try to learn something new every day. And this blog is a great way to do that.

We’ve been able to put in a huge garden, two greenhouses and I take a deer right off the land each year to put in the freezer. Moving here really has been a dream come true. Many of our friends here in the mountains feel the same way as we do about what the future holds and it amazes us as to how many people are getting ready for what’s to come. And yet we only discuss it with a select few from our church.

We have always felt that this was our bug out retreat since we left the hordes, but lately we’ve been wondering what we would do if we had to bug out of here. So, as soon as the ground thaws this spring, we start the next big project, an underground bunker. Dug into the side of our mountain, it will be made out of cinder blocks with the roof made out of ½” thick channel iron, since we just happen to have a bunch of that laying around. Then the entire thing will be buried under about 2 or 3’ of soil and will have two steel doors and even a periscope that I’ve made out of two 90-degree fittings and a couple of mirrors that we found at the hobby store. That way we will at least have a small view of the outside world if we have to hunker down for an extended period of time. Our biggest problem will be concealing everything with the proper camouflage, the tube that the periscope will be housed in, a solar panel to help keep the battery charged, a wire antenna for a radio and one of the steel doors will all be outside of the shelter. I‘m enjoying the other posts on this site of other shelters and would like to see more folks write in with their ideas. There are some pretty talented folks on this site.

My father has been a Ham for as long as I can remember and before too long I will be getting my Ham radio license and that will be another big asset for this whole effort. We’ll even try to install a transceiver in the shelter so we can keep in touch with the outside world.

I’ve read quite a bit on this site about obtaining skills for when TSHTF and couldn’t agree more. One of the first things I did when we got settled in was to join the local Search & Rescue team and Volunteer fire dept. and not long ago I got involved in a Community Emergency Response Team (CERT). The training that I’ve received from each of these has been invaluable. Skills like wilderness first aid, CPR, rock climbing, rope rescue techniques, evacuation, firefighting, use of radio and much more. It takes a lot of personal time but I urge others to make the commitment and learn as much as they can. Being involved in these organizations might also give us a heads up with some advanced information and that could come in real handy.

Another thing we’ve done here is to load up a number of six gallon buckets with all sorts of items that we might need if we had to evacuate the house for some reason. These buckets hold some emergency supplies like food, bottled water, meds, blankets, tarps, rope, fire starters, gloves, socks, knife, flashlight, spare batteries and a small Sterno stove to heat water with. It’s amazing how much stuff you can cram into a six gallon bucket if you do it right. These buckets are buried strategically throughout the property. We keep the locations handy so we can get to the nearest bucket, dig it up and at least have some supplies to work with. In each bucket taped to the lids are the locations of the other buckets. Chances are pretty slim that anyone would find any of the caches by accident, being that all the buckets are buried on our own property and well camouflaged. All of the containers have a good seal around the lid to prevent moisture from getting in and when we bury them we have a piece of plywood cut in a circle that is an inch or two larger in diameter than the bucket. This helps keep the dirt off the lids when we need to dig them up. Each bucket is buried only a few inches below ground level and we stash a small garden shovel nearby underneath a rock, bush or by a tree trunk to make it easier to get the buckets out in a hurry.

As far as transportation goes, we have a gas powered pick up, a diesel pickup and a 1970s-vintage Jeep that has no [microprocessor] electronics in it that would be affected by an EMP. We burn vegetable oil in the diesel during the summer months, the harsh winters here make it a bit too thick to use, even with the additives we put in to help thin it out. I would also suggest that you get a good bike for each family member, know how to tune it up, know what the most common items are that would break and how to repair them. Have the right tools to carry on the bike and know how to use them. Here in the mountains we are a long way from anything and someday a bicycle might be the fastest way to get there. But in a big pinch there is always foot power. You obviously need to have good packs that fit well and a couple of comfortable pairs of hiking boots. You also need to maintain good physical health if you plan on hoofing a lot.

We try to teach others to be prepared as well. Not necessarily for TEOTWAWKI kind of thing but for the more common ‘what if’ scenarios like bad weather, power outages etc. We feel that if we can get our family members to consider those scenarios then they will be able to use that knowledge in case things really do hit the fan. It’s pretty frustrating knowing that my loved ones will not leave the big city and are pretty clueless as to how to survive when things take a turn for the worse. All we can do is pray for them and hope that they get a clue before it’s too late.

I know some readers will be thinking that we have it made being able to have a retreat, vehicles and a business that allows us to fabricate most of the things we need. Much of the emergency items we have were purchased from yard sales and thrift stores. We also barter for a lot of items and services. No doubt we’ve been blessed but it was not easy in any sense of the word. When we first got here we lived in an old camper with no water, shower or toilet for 14 months. We started out with a bucket for a toilet until we could get a port-a-potty hauled in. That was reason for celebration! It took about a year to get our place built and has been an ongoing struggle the whole time. But it has all been worth it. Being out in the middle of nowhere, we had no idea how we would make a living. It took about two more years to make a name for ourselves in the fabricating business. But word of mouth is the best advertisement in tight knit localities like this. We depended on miracles almost every month (and still do) when we didn’t know where the money was going to come from to pay the mortgage. It was a big leap of faith moving here but that’s what we were led to do. That leads me to one more item to mention before I close and that is faith in God. As many others have stressed, getting yourself right with God is the most important thing you can do. Faith has brought us this far and we continue to build our faith as things start to look darker and darker by the day. Pray for each other for knowledge, provision, wisdom and discernment and that we’re on the other side of the fan when it finally hits!!




"H2O" in California sent this news item about Kern County, California: Kern unemployment continues to climb: 17.4% in February. H2O's comment: "The bulk of Kern's population is located in the Southern San Joaquin Valley, where agriculture and oil are the lynchpins of the local economy. With the legislative/judicial droughts being imposed on California, local farmers have been allocated just 15% of their annual contractual water supplies. This means that they cannot secure the crop loans necessary to grow the crops to feed the nation for the fourth year in a row. Food shortages are right around the corner, I fear."

Alice W. was the first of several readers to mention his commentary by Charles Krauthammer at NRO: The VAT Cometh.

GG sent this: Supply fears start to hit Treasuries

Also from GG, the latest Friday Follies: Regulators shut 2 Georgia banks, 1 in Florida, 1 in Arizona; makes 41 US bank failures in 2010.

Items from The Economatrix:

Banks Unlikely to Cut Mortgages for Many Borrowers

Eurozone Agrees On Bailout Plan for Greece

Underemployment Hits 20% in Mid-March

Jobless Rate Rose in 27 States in February; 4 Hit Record Levels

Spring Outlook: Housing Sales Are Looking As Bleak As Ever

"We Are At A Tipping Point"--The Only Thing that May Save the Euro is a Collapse of the US



I found an interesting piece linked over at Steve Quayle's site about climate change: Global cooling: What happens if the Iceland volcano blows

   o o o

Greg C. sent this: 1918 and 2009 Pandemic Influenza Viruses Lack a Sugar Topping; Finding Could Aid Vaccine Design. (It sounds like we dodged a bullet!)

   o o o

Both Mark P. and my old friend Sandy sent this: Has SSL become pointless? Researchers suspect state-sponsored CA forgery



Who can find a virtuous woman? for her price [is] far above rubies.
The heart of her husband doth safely trust in her, so that he shall have no need of spoil.
She will do him good and not evil all the days of her life.
She seeketh wool, and flax, and worketh willingly with her hands.
She is like the merchants' ships; she bringeth her food from afar.
She riseth also while it is yet night, and giveth meat to her household, and a portion to her maidens.
She considereth a field, and buyeth it: with the fruit of her hands she planteth a vineyard.
She girdeth her loins with strength, and strengtheneth her arms.
She perceiveth that her merchandise [is] good: her candle goeth not out by night.
She layeth her hands to the spindle, and her hands hold the distaff.
She stretcheth out her hand to the poor; yea, she reacheth forth her hands to the needy.
She is not afraid of the snow for her household: for all her household [are] clothed with scarlet.
She maketh herself coverings of tapestry; her clothing [is] silk and purple.
Her husband is known in the gates, when he sitteth among the elders of the land.
She maketh fine linen, and selleth [it]; and delivereth girdles unto the merchant.
Strength and honour [are] her clothing; and she shall rejoice in time to come.
She openeth her mouth with wisdom; and in her tongue [is] the law of kindness.
She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness.
Her children arise up, and call her blessed; her husband [also], and he praiseth her.
Many daughters have done virtuously, but thou excellest them all.
Favour [is] deceitful, and beauty [is] vain: [but] a woman [that] feareth the LORD, she shall be praised.
Give her of the fruit of her hands; and let her own works praise her in the gates. - Proverbs 31:10-31 (KJV)


Saturday, March 27, 2010


Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



It’s the dead of winter. Snow is flying. There is nothing more comfortable in the cold of a winter season than knowing you are cozy in your home. You are warm and oblivious to the penetrating cold of the outdoors. But just how vulnerable are you to a sudden and unexpected power outage from an ice storm or another failure of the electrical grid? Do you depend on oil, natural gas, propane gas or electricity for your home heating? Under any circumstance, could your home heating system become unworkable? This article should help prepare you enough so you and your family won’t freeze to death if the grid goes down.

I have spent 37 years of my life working as a chimney sweep and/or a brick mason. So my first love of heating alternatives are solid fuel heaters. When I say solid fuel, I am specifically talking about wood, coal, or other biomass, which can be combusted in a controlled environment in exchange for the heating value--as measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs)--of the fuel source.  Wood fuel will average up to 8,500 BTU of heat per pound. Coal is approximately 12,000 BTU per pound. Variations of the actual BTU of heat potential will be specific to the density of the solid fuel being combusted and moisture content. Lighter density woods like pine and cedar will take a larger amount of wood to make the heat potential that a smaller amount of oak or hickory will produce. Of course one is limited to whatever is locally available. If you have a good source of coal locally available, that could be your fuel of choice.  However, it is unfeasible to import coal or wood from other regions of the country because of the transportation costs and energy expense of the transport.  For this reason I do not recommend pellet fuel as a viable survival fuel. I will talk about pellet stoves specifically a little later.

There are three types of solid fuel appliances. Fireplaces, free standing stoves, and central furnaces. Each has unique properties, advantages, and disadvantages. Out of the three categories, a fireplace is the most inefficient. A fireplace will achieve perhaps a 10% efficiency rating because most of the heat goes up the chimney. Dampers must remain partially open during all phases of the heating cycle. Glass doors help efficiency considerably over an open fireplace. A better fireplace will have ducting around the outside of the firebox to allow more heat exchange. Masonry fireplaces store more ambient heat than metal box fireplaces. But a metal box fireplace will put out more radiant heat in a shorter period of time. And a masonry fireplace is relatively difficult to add to an existing structure without major modifications in footings and other structural considerations.

 The installation of a wood burning stove in an existing fireplace, called an Insert will increase the efficiency of a fireplace upwards to a comparable free standing wood stove. But before installing an insert stove in any fireplace, be sure to check manufacturers instructions for both fireplace and the stove insert for compatibility! Failure to follow the instructions or the use of mismatched parts can lead to unsafe and potentially deadly consequences! Safety cannot be stressed enough when using solid fuel heaters. When properly installed and maintained, solid fuel heat is safe, efficient, and economical under any conditions.

If you choose to have a gas fireplace, or gas log, be aware that the convenience comes with an expense. If the fireplace has an electric igniter and the power is off, that appliance will not function. Without blower circulation heat build up can become excessive and unsafe. Gas logs can be added, but they are relatively inefficient and ever an increasing expense to operate. Also keep in mind that if there is a disruption in gas supplies and distribution, your gas appliance may become useless within a very short period of time. Propane gas appliances allow storage on site, which may buy you some time. But under a prolonged disruption of gas supply, that appliance will no longer be useful.

Free standing wood stoves are the most popular. They can be located centrally in a house or cabin for maximum heating. Many stoves come with an electric blower system, which improves efficiency. However in a power outage, the stove will still produce enough radiant heat to keep you warm.  Stoves that have no blower,  rely upon their design to produce area heating. EPA Certified solid fuel heaters will have an efficiency rating of 85%, which is nearly as efficient as gas heaters. You may be able to pick up an older, used wood stove for not a lot of money. But be aware that the stove may not have the highest efficiency and by law may not be legal in some environmentally sensitive areas. But in a survival situation, the goal is to keep from freezing to death. On a tight budget, an older stove is still a worthwhile investment if it is sound working condition.

 There is also a class of solid fuel heater called pellet fuel heaters. While they may be the current rage of environmentally friendly solid fuel heaters, they will not function without backup electricity. I used to own a pellet stove. They are nice when you have electricity, but worthless if the power goes off. Unfortunately the cost of transporting the wood pellets is making the fuel source very expensive per BTU of heat. If there is a disruption of the transportation grid, the fuel would become unavailable in many areas of the country. By and large, I would never recommend a pellet heater for a survival heater.

Third category of solid fuel heaters is central a furnace. My home was originally "all electric". A couple years ago we had a severe ice storm in Central Missouri that knocked out power to thousands of homes for over a week. My neighbors essentially had to leave their all electric homes because the temperature became unlivable. But I was able to remain in my home. Why?  I have a central wood furnace that is ducted into my heating system. Without electricity, the blower circulation will not function. But the radiant heat rose from the top of the furnace duct and circulated naturally through my central ductwork.  When it became evident that the power might not be restored for several days, I brought my portable generator into use. I located my generator in my detached garage and ran an electric cord through my clothes dryer vent, into my furnace room. From there I was able to power the wood furnace, freezer, and extra refrigerator. Warning: Because of the risk on carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning, never place a generator in an attached garage or living space! Also be absolutely sure to "lock out" the circuit breakers to prevent a back feed condition to the grid power lines. During the power outage, several people needlessly died due to carbon monoxide poisoning because they placed generators in their attached garage and the CO gas entered the home. The goal is to survive here so be smart.

Another popular wood furnace is located outside the house. A generator could run that system from outside. But one disadvantage to an outdoor wood furnace is having to go outside to add fuel. If there is some kind of outdoor environmental situation that makes it unsafe to go outside, the indoor furnace can be fueled from inside wood storage for a few days. Not having to open doors preserves the indoor air quality. The indoor furnace will still send heat into the ductwork without a fan. The outdoor furnace has a much more difficult ducting system that may not transfer enough heat to sustain livability if power is lost completely.

Having a generator is very good for short term survival circumstances. But you may be limited on how much use you may get out of a generator if there is a long term disruption of gasoline delivery. You may be able to use a good generator sparingly and operate a wood stove or furnace fan for many days on 5 gallons of gas. But in the long term your solid fuel system should be capable of sustaining enough heat in your home to make it livable under the worst of winter conditions.

A solar electric panel with battery storage will operate a blower , so that could be another consideration for power to circulate heat or other power needs. [JWR Adds: An inverter would be required to run an AC fan. But when sourcing your power from a DC battery bank, running a DC fan is much more efficient.]

You may have to consider blocking off some rooms to keep the heat in the main area of habitation.  If your wood appliance has a cook top that is capable of basic cooking or boiling water that is a plus. If there is a disruption of water supply, the ability to melt snow or boil water on a cook top wood stove could allow you to process enough drinking water to sustain an ample survival water supply.

One last item to consider for a survival situation utilizing any solid fuel appliance is the chimney. I cannot stress enough the importance of having a clean and structurally sound chimney system. If your masonry chimney has cracked tile liners, or is unlined, I strongly suggest you have a Certified Chimney Sweep inspect your chimney and perform any necessary repairs before you consider using a solid fuel appliance. There are stainless steel chimney liners available to reline your chimney. If the chimney has ever been used to vent a gas appliance, the mortar becomes weakened by chemical reactions and is unsafe to use without the addition of a stainless chimney liner. Under no conditions should you vent a solid fuel appliance into a chimney being used by a gas furnace or gas water heater. This can create a dangerous condition. In addition, the gas damages the structure as I've already outlined.

The other type of chimney system is called a Class A Chimney. These systems consist of insulated, prefabricated sections of stainless steel pipe that snap or lock together. They can be fully supported by the ceiling rafters, which allow installation in areas where a masonry chimney is impractical. Where a masonry chimney requires a concrete footing, a prefab Class A chimney can be easily installed into any existing structure. A chimney should be cleaned and checked prior to use in the fall, and cleaned and rechecked at least once during the heating season to insure safety and long term durability.

All in all, as a matter of long term survival, alternative heat should be a top priority as an equal to food and water storage. Winter may be almost over for many, but now is the time to start gathering firewood for next season. As a rule, one acre of timber produces, by natural turnover, about a cord of wood every year. Not many trees need to be cut to heat your home. I will heat my 1,900 square foot home with two to three cords of firewood a year with very little electric furnace operation. But if you do cut a tree, be sure to plant one for sustainability of your wood supply. In a survival situation. One can never have enough dry, split firewood handy if the power grid goes down in the dead of winter.



Sir:
Deer, rabbits, and squirrels are a real problem where we live in western Canada. The deer and rabbits love our fruit trees and the squirrels have a penchant for strawberries. (Yes, up here we can grow many varieties of apples, plums, cherries, pears and even certain varieties of kiwi, peach, grape, etc.)

When we first moved to our farm we had several of our trees seriously damaged by deer and rabbits--not just fruit trees but trees in our shelter belt as well. The rabbits were the worst because they stripped the bark (several inches high) all the way around the tree and killed it. The damage from rabbits usually occurred in the winter while the deer preferred to eat the ripened apples in the fall--this of course caused some collateral damage to the branches. The deer also loved the taste of the leaves and branches on our young cherry bushes and thoroughly chewed them up. Squirrels really only hurt our strawberries. There would be no sign of them until the berries were just about ripe...and then we would check and the freshly ripened strawberries would be one-third eaten away.

We have relied on three effective means to prevent damage to our investments: guns, pets, and blood meal sprays.

(1) Guns are pretty self-explanatory. I used my Ruger 10/.22 to significantly thin down the rabbit and squirrel populations. Used to see sign of rabbits weekly but now I haven't seen one for about 6 months. The squirrels are more persistent and elusive but I have significantly decreased their numbers. Deer are off-limits without a license and only hunt-able during certain times of the year.

(2) We bought a young dog when we first moved to our farm and he helped to keep the pests away but unfortunately contracted the Parvo virus and died. Apparently, the Parvo virus is persistent and the vet advised us to wait a year before getting another dog. During this time our cat stepped up to the plate in defending our fruit trees. The cat had been relatively effective at killing squirrels (ground and tree varieties) but we were shocked the first time he got a rabbit! The rabbit was juvenile but was by no means a baby. Later, the cat was somehow able to kill an adult rabbit--maybe we weren't feeding it enough! We now have another dog that will help keep the deer away.

(3) Blood meal-based sprays are what we use to protect our trees in the winter when our fruit trees are the most vulnerable. Blood meal is dried, powdered blood. Some companies have incorporated blood meal into sprays that can be applied directly to the tress/bushes. We buy products such as Plantskydd but have used others as well. These sprays adhere really well and provide protection for up to 6 months. After the harvest and just before it starts to freeze, we spray down our trees with the spray and it has thus far been 100% successful for us. The smell of blood supposedly scares the deer and rabbits away. We make sure and coat the trunks of the trees thoroughly up to the height that rabbits can reach in the winter. We also douse the branches to keep the deer away. I have read that some people have found these sprays ineffective but given the success that we have had I can only assume that they didn't use enough. An enterprising person could probably make their own spray from blood meal. It is inexpensive and readily available but I haven't personally invested the time to try it.

The main drawback of the blood meal spray is the time that it takes to thoroughly treat all the trees. We have about 50 trees and it takes a while to spray them all with a hand sprayer. We are enlarging our orchard this year and I will need to buy a larger sprayer. Blood meal sprays can be purchases in concentrated form and are more economical for treating larger amounts of plants.

Using these three tools we have managed our first full year with no animal damage to our trees. Hope this is of some help to those struggling with these type of pests, - Ryan from Canada


Sir:
Jason provided some good information on pest and varmint control, but I'd like to add one that I rarely see listed in recommendations: big dogs.

Our garden is usually 1/4 acre or larger and we live out in the country with plentiful deer, rabbits, raccoons, etc. Given it's size, the garden would be costly to fence so we've had to take our chances with the creatures of the night. While we do occasionally find deer tracks or nibbled veggies in the garden, it's not the problem I think it would be if not for our night patrol. Our two mixed breed dogs go tearing across the yard barking several times a night to chase intruders away. They occasionally catch their own dinners and quickly rid the yard of moles. In addition, we keep our poultry in movable coops to fertilize our pastures and rarely have predator problems as long as the coops are in the dogs' territory. And many a visitor has waited in his car for us to come out over concern about the friendliness of our dogs. We never tell them they wouldn't bite- I'd rather they wonder. We jokingly call our dogs "porch ornaments" since they loll around most of the day, but to our way of thinking, they are invaluable as pets and protection from all kinds of things. - Laura in an Unnamed Southern State


Hi JWR,
I've been reading your blog for a while now and have enjoyed the many useful and insightful articles.

The article on garden defense caught my eye as it's been a perennial thorn in my side.

On the advice of an elderly rancher who lived nearby, we constructed two fences--- a barb-wire outer fence about 4 feet high and an inner fence of #4 mesh about 6 feet high. The space between the two fences is about 5 feet all the way around.

The reason this fence works is that deer are unable to leap both fences at once and unwilling to jump into the tight space between the fences. And the smaller animals can't get through the mesh of the inner fence.

This works pretty well to keep humans out as well and costs less to maintain than a single, taller fence. Thanks, - Thomas


James,
I would like to add some personal perspective on controlling deer predation. I read the article that Jason wrote : Garden Defense -- Repelling Four-Legged (and Two-Winged) Pests, by Jason , and he makes some excellent suggestions. Having tried virtually everything ever suggested to me, I would concur that scents, irritants, and other non-physical barriers are ultimately of limited effectiveness.

We garden year-round and the local deer population is big. To make matters worse, we have neighbors down the road who enjoy feeding the deer in order to watch them. A fine pastime, to be sure, but once the kiddies are bored with the deer the feeding stops for awhile and the four-legged residents forage elsewhere. Being the closest, the critters always stop by to see what we have on the menu.

After a few years of random devastation (one night we had 33 out of 80 tomato plants eaten down from four feet high to eight inches low), I decided that we needed to enclose our plots with fencing. We have two plots, each about an acre, so a full deer-height fence with a rabbit barrier down low was going to be a serious expense. Since the valley we live in has a few native residents, I decided to do a little brain-picking. I figured that since the deer have been here a long time, those born and raised in this valley might have a trick or two. A half-dozen loaves of homemade bread later, I had two "sure-fire" strategies. I decided to test them, one on each plot, and gauge their effectiveness.

Both methods take advantage of the same characteristics that all deer seem to have. Those being their inability to perceive distance/depth of field accurately, and their poor vision in general. While deer are very good a detecting movement, they are very much color blind and see things in shades of gray. Blaze Orange is a testament to their vision deficiencies.

The first suggestion was to put up a "standard" 4 ft. garden fence using steel t-posts, burying a 3-ft high rabbit barrier of galvanized roll fencing (same method as Jason detailed using chicken wire), then adding three strands of fence wire above the rabbit fence. This sort of fence by itself is useless for repelling deer. The trick I learned was to add a second fence line, outside the garden fence and 18-24" away. This needs to be a single strand of fence wire about three feet high. Done. The theory is that the deer will come up to the first strand and decide to go either over or under it. But, they will first see the second fence and not be able to determine how far away it is. Since the way deer jump a fence is to get right up next to it and go basically straight up and over, they are hesitant to go past the first strand, not know if they will trap themselves.

The second suggestion was one I had little faith in, I admit. I was already preparing for the loss of this garden before the fence was even up. In short, the "fence" consists of a single strand of monofilament fishing line, approximately 3-ft above the ground, stretched between posts as far apart as feasible. The idea with this method is that, due to their poor vision, the deer will walk into the mono strand and stop. Since they can't identify what is impeding them or how high it might be, they can't figure out a safe way past and so they give up and leave.

So here we went, one garden plot fenced with each method, and deer food coming up nicely. Since they absolutely love heirloom tomato plants, I put some in each plot. Time to wait and watch. It did not take long to see that the single strand of monofilament had no effect on rabbits. They came fast, and, being thwarted by the buried fencing on the first plot, went after the unprotected one. This was manageable for awhile, but the monofilament I used did not hold up well to stray dogs, nor to sunlight. While it stayed in place, the deer came up to it and left most of the time, but when it started to deteriorate and became opaque it lost it's effectiveness. The mono required replacing several times during the summer growing season to remain effective.

The multi-strand fence with the outside single wire did a much better job. No rabbit penetration, one incident of a raccoon getting into the melon patch, and twice a deer apparently got caught between the fences and tore up the single strand a little. No deer got into the garden plot however.

We have not had issues with fall and over-winter predation, so I took the mono down and left the dual fence up. Planning for year two over the winter, I decided to try mono again, but add a second strand. I found some "clear" mono that was UV stabilized (it said). I strung it with high hopes and waited. The new, improved, mono selection worked a bit better at resisting the effects of the sun, but two strands was twice as much work when dogs tore it up. I would have tolerated them better if they would occasionally get a rabbit but they are too domesticated to be true alpha predators anymore. After a second summer season, the mono method clearly works, but upkeep is time consuming.

The original double fence stayed in place during year two as well. I had to double up on a few posts that loosened, but otherwise held up well. Functionally, rabbits were still denied access and a few incidents with deer getting inside the first strand resulted in a couple deer incidents. One deer was caught in the garden and provided a winter's worth of stew meat in exchange for two cabbage heads and six tomato plants, three of which recovered and yielded plenty of tomatoes.

After another winter of contemplation, I decided to abandon the mono strand fence. Maintenance and lack of rabbit protection were my main motives. So I replicated the basic garden fence from the first plot. I decided to experiment again, and made it five feet high instead of four. Then, when I put up the outside fence, I went looking for mono stranding again. My theory was that the mono had worked so well by itself, it might be even better in conjunction with the inner fence. Maybe over thinking it, I know, but having a deer get into the garden fence made me think that I might be able to improve it somehow.

In searching for a tougher mono, I stumbled on a roll of bright orange trimmer string in the tool shed. It was enough to run down one side of the plot, so I put it on the side the deer favor. I had a bunch left over from the previous year, so I did the rest with a single strand of regular clear mono. Well, after the season was done, I was amazed. The dogs no longer ran through the mono, I guess because they could see the wire fence inside. And I didn't have any deer get inside. The clear mono still had UV issues and had to be replaced mid-season, but the orange trimmer line was a little stiff, but held up all season.

I have continued to use trimmer line since and have had good results. (The best price seems to be on Weed Eater .080", usually around $16 for a 2,000 ft spool). I have seen commercial deer fencing go to poly and PVC coated wire in recent years and know of commercial growers that swear by it. I will try it if I have to completely re-fenced at some point, but it is very expensive for a smaller garden solution. It also relies on height, and keeping up with a 7-10 ft fence might be a lot harder than a 4-5 ft one for the average gardener. One note: In our case, deer average around 90-100 lbs. If you are in an area with bigger (taller) deer, you may need to adjust the height of the outer strand somewhat. And if you are in elk country, scale will need to adjust too, I would imagine.

Now, if someone has a way to keep galvanized fencing from rusting out every five years or so...

Many thanks for your wonderful site, - Paul E.





James M. found a free 36 hour video permaculture course available online, from the good folks at the LATOC Forums.

   o o o

Lee C. was the first of several readers to mention a brief BBC article about US preppers.

   o o o

Jeff sent this: Military Cartridge Brass Destruction 2010 - Round 2

   o o o

There is an interesting thread of conversation in progress, over at the AR15.com ("ARFF") Forums: National Emergency, will parents be able to get their kids from Public Schools?

   o o o

I recently did some research for a consulting client that I thought would benefit many SurvivalBlog readers. The client had asked for a source for reasonably-priced tritium vials. (In his case, he needed 2 mm x 8mm vials to "reanimate" a couple of 1960s-vintage Trilux scopes for L1A1 rifles. I'll be doing the same, for my own Trilux.) Here is the source that I found: B@rt's Tritium. They have an amazing selection of tritium vial shapes and colors. He said that he liked these so much, that he bought some extras to epoxy on to room light switch plates. (No more fumbling in the dark to find a light switch!)



"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing." - Helen Keller


Friday, March 26, 2010


Today we present a guest article by Jason, the editor of The Self-Sufficient Way.



Finally building a cabin in the woods close to nature can be a dream come true.  But if you are a gardener like me, the morning after the first midnight garden raid by pests unknown can be a real nightmare. 

Garden pests never attack the day after harvest or when the plants are young.  They always seem to attack my garden the day before the big haul.  A garden full of just ripened fruit and veggies must look like a neon all-you-can-eat sign to a hungry deer, or rabbit. 

There are ways to effectively turn that sign off but it will require perseverance and definitely some trial and error.

Deer

The most persevering four legged pests to ravage a garden are deer.  Their sheer size and appetite can make for absolute garden destruction.  Worse yet, many times they will simply ignore the things a gardener is apt to do to repel them.  They jump all but the very highest fence and eat right through a lot of treatments to plants.

Natural (or at least passive) repellents can be used but it is a lot like using a pesticide.  Eventually the pests develop immunity to the treatment.  Repellents are theorized to work in two ways.  The first way is by presenting the deer with something they associate with human activity.  Deer in most places have learned to avoid humans at all costs.

There are a few repellents that fit into this category.  The first is soap.  A technique taught to me by an old Kentucky corn farmer was to actually put the soap in a sock and hang it from a stretch of fence.  He hung them about every 40-50 yards.  When asked if they worked he replied, “for a little while, then the damn things lose their fear”.  Some people rub the soap onto a pie pan and hang it from a string close to the garden.  I’ve never tried this but it should work in about the same way.

The second human related repellant is a little more revolting to most people.  That repellant is urine.  Collected over a period of time and poured in a perimeter around the garden, this will sometimes keep the deer away.  Just be aware that urine in its raw state can burn your grass and crops.  The theory here is that some deer just associate the smell with humans or that they can discern the smell of the urine of a predator. 

Some people claim that human hair can also be used.  Probably also best placed in a sock and hung from a fence.

There are also many plants that can be companion planted in your garden to repel deer.  This second group of repellents works by odor as well.  This group works by masking other odors.  The theory with this group is either the deer won’t go into places where they aren’t able to smell predators due to the strong scents or that they simple can’t smell the tasty vegetables due to the strong odors.  The positive thing about this group of repellant is that they are completely natural and once planted should only require inputs same as the other garden plants.

Among the many plants that are purported to repel deer are yarrow, lavender, marigolds, rosemary, oregano, sage and thyme.  The great thing about these plants is that most perform multiple tasks; repelling pest insects, inviting helpful insects, providing food or all three. 

If all else fails, there are a few “last resorts”.  The first is making a pepper spray concoction from hot peppers and spraying the solution over the garden plants.  The reason this is a last resort is that every rain requires a new dosing and it uses valuable peppers that could be best enjoyed as food instead of deer repellant.

Another last resort is the gun.  Of course, this is not easy or foolproof in a lot of cases.  For one, state laws (including hunting seasons, tags and permits) must be obeyed.  Not everyone is allowed by local law to shoot where they live.  Even then, it only takes care of the immediate problem and other deer are free to move in and continue the destruction. 

The state where I live (Kentucky) in 2008 revised statutes to allow deer control tags to be issued in cases where: 

  • Deer hunting occurred on the property during the previous deer season
  • Standard deterrent measures recommended by a department representative have proven ineffective or are impractical; and
  • A department representative certifies deer damage to crops, gardens, and property or wildlife habitat.

Again, please check local and state laws before discharging a firearm or hunting deer.

The final “last resort” is the fence.  Fencing is costly to build to a height that deer won’t attempt to jump and it can limit any garden expansions.  However, a fence to a height of 5 foot or so will at least deter them somewhat.  It is also an adjunct solution.  A fence of that height can make it easier to trap them for a moment to shoot them.  It also gives you a base from which to hang repellant. 

Rabbits

Rabbits can wreak a lot of destruction on a garden as well.  Pound for pound they are probably more harmful than deer. 

Luckily rabbits can be stopped by most low cost fencing options.  In fact, in the early 1900s in Australia, three fences, one nearly spanning the entire continent from north to south, were erected to prevent rabbits from encroaching further.  Rabbits were an invasive species there.  I bring up this odd bit of trivia to point out the fact that the larger the fence, the more likely that erosion and other animals will breach it and allow rabbits inside.  This is exactly what happened in Australia.  The fence must be maintained.

Most rabbit fences are made of chicken wire, which is a thin strand galvanized steel woven wire fence material.  The shorter 36” height should be used and the first 6-8” should be buried in a pre-dug trench to prevent burrowing under or erosion from rendering the fence ineffective.  Stake should be driven in the ground at appropriate distances to keep the fence in place.  The wire can be stapled or tied to the stakes.  This fence will also help with raccoons.

In addition, lavender (also mentioned above as a deer repellant) is also a rabbit repellant.  With so many uses not just as a pest repellant, good insect attractant and more, it just makes sense to plant this one.  Rabbits also hate garlic; so again, you can keep rabbits (and vampires) away and enjoy the multiples uses of a delicious plant.  Foxgloves will also repel rabbits but with only one use (other than being aesthetically pleasing) I wouldn’t really bother with it unless it is a last resort before harming the animals.

For those who have no qualms about harming rabbits, a .22 LR or even a strong air rifle will do the trick.  Rabbits are delicious to boot.

Gophers and Moles

Although listed in the same category, these two mammals are different in the ways that they harm a garden but similar in how to deal with them. 

Moles are a lesser concern as they do not eat veggies but instead eat grubs, worms and other insects.  This in itself is not a concern but for the air pockets around roots that they leave which damage and kill plants.  Moles rarely emerge from their burrows.  Gophers will come out of their holes to eat your garden. 

Some methods of prevention will require identification.  This is not a difficult task.  The first obvious sign of a gopher is that your veggies are eaten (see above).  A mole will only leave wilted and/or dying plants.  Both animals create mounds.  The gopher creates a mound from which it pushes dirt and exits.  The mound will have a hole (which may be loosely plugged) and the dirt will be pushed in a crescent pattern.  The mole will push straight up and usually will not leave a hole.  The dirt will mound in a nearly perfect circle. 

Unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be a viable natural method of keeping pocket gophers and moles in check.  Poison can be used but I find this method wholly undesirable. 

The first method is to simply build a barrier.  This will require trenching down about two feet and burying your fence to that depth.  If properly planned, this barrier could serve as a rabbit fence and gopher/mole fence in one.  Just be sure that the wire weave on the fence is small enough to prevent the smaller ones from going straight through.  An alternative is to fill the trench with rock or cement.  The trench and rock could be used in conjunction with the fence.  If you are building raised beds, the fencing can be nailed to the bottom of the frame or laid in. 

The second viable method is trapping but this will require more maintenance than even the fence.  The traps will have to be emptied and reset and new tunnels will need to be addressed.  Victor makes what is perhaps the most popular set of traps for gophers and moles.  Just be aware that there are separate traps for each.  So identification of the culprit is going to be necessary (see above).

Birds

I’ve never had a major garden problem with birds.  Occasionally I will find a peck mark in a tomato or realize that they’ve dug up seeds I’ve just planted.  In most cases birds actually help a garden by eating harmful insects. 

However, I concede that there may be situation where they become a problem.  In these cases, you can use a frightening device such as the aluminum pie pan you would use for deer.  Owl and snake decoys only work for a short while.  That is, until the birds realize they are immobile.  You can also take countermeasure to eliminate nesting areas and perching areas. 

Summary 

No pest control method is 100% effective.  Fences break, erode, blow down or are jumped.  Killing the pest only leaves a vacuum that is quickly filled by another.  Pests will build immunities or otherwise ignore companion plantings occasionally.

The best approach is a multi-pronged approach using a double fence broad-spectrum repellant. 

The proper solution, of course, will vary with your particular pest problems, garden size and other factors impossible to list here.  You could add pie pans with soap rubbed on to this setup to repel birds and add an additional layer of deer defense.

The important thing to remember is to use multiple options that address more than one pest to maximize your money and time.  - Jason, Editor of The Self-Sufficient Way.



Dear Jim,
I have had the pleasure of reading your blog and archives on a regular basis and have purchased and enjoyed both the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course and your latest book.

My questions relate to the availability, safety and durability of the Colt Model 1892 double action (DA) .41, which you recently recommended. I have contacted some of the dealers and auction sites you mention on your web site, but have not yet found one for sale that is in acceptable condition. If you know of someone that would be willing to sell one or two, I would be very grateful for the lead. What would be a fair price? Also, if you have any suggestions for someone who can tune up and accurize old Colts and S&Ws, that would be greatly appreciated.

I'm a bit concerned about the cylinder latch on this model. As I understand it, with wear of the latch over time, the cylinder will often go out of timing, leading to malfunctions and a potentially hazardous situation. Unfortunately, it seems the revised model 1894 and 1896 are even harder to track down with serial numbers that identify them as pre-1899 production specimens.

Here are my specific questions:
1.) Sources for Colt 1892 DA .41 revolvers
2.) Prices for 1892 DA .41revolvers
3.) Gunsmith for old Colts and S&Ws
4.) Safety/Durability of cylinder latch on Colt 1892
5.) Any other suggestions/options for pre-1899 revolvers: 1894, 1896, etc?

Thanks in advance for your advice. Kind Regards, - C.M.

JWR Replies: I've personally never had any cylinder latch problems with Colt Model 1892s double actions. In my experience, the most typical problem with these guns are weak "hand" springs. Thankfully, that is a very easy fix.

These revolvers can indeed still be found, with some searching. Try GunsAmerica.com, GunBroker.com and Joe Salter.

Currently, $600 to $750 is the going rate for military contract Colt DA .41s in good mechanical condition, but at those prices they frequently have heavily-worn bluing. Civilian production guns command substantially higher prices thane the more numerous military contract revolvers.

If you find one with "tune up" needs or other gunsmithing issues, then I recommend Sal Lanara. (If his name sounds familiar, that is because is a brother of the famed Colt Single Action gunsmith David Lanara.) Sal specializes in the Colt Double Actions. In addition to tune-ups, Sal Lanara can also do re-bluing, shorten barrels, and even do complete restorations, but those can be expensive.

He does not have a web site. Here is his contact information:
Sal Lanara
8150 Richard Road
Broadview Heights, Ohio 44147
Phone : (440) 526-7265

My suggestions on some other practical and affordable pre-1899s:

  • S&W "Lemon Squeezer" (Safety Hammerless) .38 double actions.
  • Iver & Johnson .38 double actions.
  • S&W .44-40 and .44 Russian double actions.
  • Webley Mark I and Mark II revolvers. Many of these have been converted to .45 ACP--for use with full moon clips by milling the back of their cylinders. This ruins their collector value, but they are still very practical, and extremely fast to reload. However, they will "shoot loose", given a diet of full power .45 ACP loads. So use custom mild handloads. (If you don't handload personally, then specify smokeless loads that crawl out the barrel at around 725 feet per second.)

There are a few other models available, but those are the ones that you are most likely to encounter at gun shows, or offered for sale via the Internet in the US. See my Pre-1899 Cartridge Guns FAQ for details on determining if any particular gun is of pre-1899 manufacture. (My FAQ lists "cut-off" serial numbers and for the Iver Johnson revolvers, some key identifying features.)






North American Bees Are in Even More Trouble After a Bad Winter. (Thanks to Damon for the link.)

   o o o

SurvivalBlog's Editor At Large Michael Z. Williamson sent us this: This Turk shows one good way of defending oneself against multiple attackers, when unarmed. "Mike's comment: Nice movement. Keep them coming singly and hit hard, while keeping a good block up."

   o o o

Chester wrote me about RJR's recommendation on Gentex 1030A active hearing protectors. ("Wolf Ears"). Here is a review of several types of hearing protection that Chester found on the net.

   o o o

Damon found this at the bottom of a Google News page: For sale in Utah: "die-hard survivalist bunker"



"Political tags — such as royalist, communist, democrat, populist, fascist, liberal, conservative, and so forth — are never basic criteria. The human race divides politically into those who want people to be controlled and those who have no such desire. The former are idealists acting from highest motives for the greatest good of the greatest number. The latter are surly curmudgeons, suspicious and lacking in altruism. But they are more comfortable neighbors than the other sort." - Robert A. Heinlein, "The Notebooks of Lazarus Long"


Thursday, March 25, 2010


Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



As a mother of two young children, including an infant, I have considered the possibilities of emergency preparedness when it comes to how my baby will be fed in times of emergency. I’ve decided that breastfeeding your baby from the beginning is the best and safest option for parents when planning for their emergencies based on economic cost, the quality of nutrition, and the safety of breast milk when water quality is questionable. I have experience as a breastfeeding counselor and help mothers learn and prepare for nursing their babies on a daily basis. I have made a list of how mothers can best prepare to have success with breastfeeding as a part of their family’s emergency preparedness plan. 

There are several ways moms can get a good start with learning to nurse her baby. Some of these include:

  1. Breastfeed right after birth. It is best to nurse within the first hour of birth, preferably with skin-to-skin contact. Mothers should also consider the environment they are birthing in. Is it a hospital that encourages breastfeeding? Do you have a certified nurse midwife? Is there a lactation consultant available? These are important considerations when planning a successful beginning to breastfeeding. There are many options for mothers to consider, and it’s not my place to say what is “best” but only that it does matter.
  1. Watch for baby’s signs of hunger, instead of the clock. Sometimes nurses will tell you to feed every two hours, however every baby is different and you should nurse on-demand instead of timing feedings. Two hours is a minimum amount, and most babies will want to nurse more frequently. It is also important not to let your baby sleep all the time and make sure they are nursing often. A very sleepy baby could be a sign of trouble that needs to be looked at by their doctor.
  1. Breastfeeding is “Supply and Demand” The more you nurse, the more milk you will make. Many new mothers have a hard time believing they are making enough milk because they are unable to measure it in a bottle, but the vast majority of women are capable of making plenty of milk for their babies; it is very rare for a mother to truly not be able to produce enough.
  1. Get support from your family, friends, and support groups. There are breastfeeding support groups in many communities. La Leche League is a great one, and they are all over the world. Husbands, partners and friends should know to offer support instead of telling the mother to “just give them some formula” when things get difficult. If a serious problem occurs, there are lactation consultants who can offer solutions.
  1. Don’t set yourself up to fail. New moms sometimes receive formula, bottles, pacifiers and breast pumps for baby shower gifts from well-meaning friends and family. All these things can set a mother up to fail in those harder early weeks of learning to breastfeed. An exhausted mother may see a cupboard full of formula and give in while she is tired and has sore nipples, thus setting herself up for supply issues. Because making milk is supply and demand, every ounce of formula given to a baby is telling her body to make that much less breast milk. Sooner or later there will not be enough to meet the demands of the infant and he or she would be fully formula fed (this is not always the case, but I find it happens all too often).

The major reason women stop breastfeeding, in my experience with working with new moms, is lack of information and support. It is critical that mothers receive support from their family, especially their husbands/partners, if they are to be successful. Often fathers want to feed the baby themselves and they believe that this would be helping the mother and so they can bond with their baby. This is not necessary for helping mother and bonding, and can, in fact, be harmful to the nursing relationship. It is important in the early weeks to not give a newborn baby a bottle because they can develop what is called “nipple confusion” or “nipple preference.” Rubber/artificial nipples and mother’s nipples are very different. Babies must work at getting milk from their mother, whereas with an artificial nipple the milk flows out. Some babies may prefer the milk that flows out because they don’t have to work for it, this can and does cause babies to stop nursing and only accept milk from a bottle. Parents who want their baby to be able to take a bottle and still nurse should wait 4-6 weeks before introducing a bottle or pacifier to their baby in order to avoid this.

Now that you know some ways to get a good start with breastfeeding, here are some reasons why it is important to include breastfeeding in your emergency preparedness plan for your infant.

  1. Formula is expensive, breast milk is free! In times of economic hardship breastfeeding is the very most economical way to feed an infant. Even in disaster situations where formula companies are more than willing to give free formula to babies in need, mothers will eventually find that when the formula runs out, so has their breast milk! Continuing to nurse, even with free formula around, is ensuring that your baby will have adequate nutrition as long as he or she is nursing.
  2. Breast milk provides complete nutritional needs for infants. Breast fed babies do not need anything but mother’s milk for the first six months of life. After six months solid foods can be introduced, but babies should still be getting most of their nutrition from breast milk until the first year. The World Health Organization believes that all children of the world, both in third world countries and developed countries, should be breast fed until age two and then as long as the mother and child want to continue beyond the age of two. That may sound like a long time to most Americans, but it is very normal to breastfeed past two years in many parts of the world.
  1. Breast milk is sanitary, and it provides immunities to prevent illness. In times where water supplies are scarce or contaminated, breast milk is the safest option for infant feeding. Formula needs to be mixed with clean water in sanitized bottles. If there is not enough clean water or fuel to sanitize the water, the baby may be put at risk for illness. Furthermore, breast milk contains important antibodies to keep the child as healthy as possible during these times.

It is also noteworthy that lactating mothers require slightly more calorie intake than non-lactating mothers. This is approximately 500 extra calories a day. Lactating mothers should also consider a prenatal multivitamin for the duration of breastfeeding. Therefore, it would be wise to plan food storage accordingly.

There are a couple book recommendations that pregnant and lactating mothers might want to purchase or check out from the library. My favorite “How-To” books are, “The Womanly Art of Breastfeeding” by La Leche League and “The Breastfeeding Book” by Martha Sears.

I hope that families who are expecting a child, either now or someday in the future, consider this article as a helpful incentive to breastfeed their babies. There are so many reasons to breastfeed and emergency preparedness is just one of the many, but should absolutely be taken into consideration when planning for your family’s needs for any potential disaster; economic, natural, or otherwise.

About the author: Lizzy is a La Leche League Leader and breastfeeding peer counselor, as well as a mother with personal breastfeeding experience. She is in the process of completing her clinical hours to become an IBCLC certified lactation consultant.



James,
As a wife and mother of a pre-teen daughter, how important is it to hide the fact that we are female in a G.O.O.D. scenario?

In considering this idea I realize that in the "flee natural disaster" situation it would be less of a concern. Perhaps it only applies to a bad TEOTWAWKI evacuation. What are your thoughts, ideas on this? When would it be necessary, how far would we need to go to disguise our female appearance, etc?

We have thought of everything from mildly sticking to athletic/hiking clothing that are form fitting but don't show skin, to cutting our daughter's hair before heading out and calling her by a male nickname that is close to her real name and buying all her BOB gear in masculine colors, and so forth.

We have also considered the pros and cons of letting it be known that I am a female to draw attention away from my beautiful daughter while she is "hidden". As a mother I would suffer anything to protect my kids, especially if we were without my husband (geographically separated, killed...) We also thought we might appear more sympathetic if they can see we are just a mom and kids instead of what appears to be armed men and boys coming at them.

Please tell me if this is something our family needs to consider in our planning. Thank you, - R.

JWR Replies: The last thing that you want to become is a refugee, moving cross-country on foot. But God forbid that ever happens, then yes, it would be wise to make females look like a teenage boys. BTW, in addition to butch haircuts, some judicious use of eyebrow pencil should help.





SurvivalBlog's Editor At Large Michael Z. Williamson forwarded this: Record numbers now licensed to pack heat; The "right-to-carry" movement has succeeded in boosting the number of licensed concealed-gun carriers to about 6 million. Mike's favorite quote from the article: "Because the gun death rates parallel an overall drop in crime, Hemenway suspects that the decline 'has nothing to do with concealed-carry laws.'" Mike's comment: "Did a PhD actually say that?"

   o o o

Attention Coloradans: Reader P.M. in Colorado suggested a "private party" sales venue where he has both sold and purchased guns. Note that interstate sales of post-1898 guns without using an FFL is illegal, but intrastate sales between private parties are perfectly legal in most states. (Be sure to consult your state laws, first!) JWR Adds: In my experience, two other good sources for private party guns are GunsAmerica.com and GunBroker.com.

   o o o

Eric S. sent this item: Amid budget crisis, California makes parole easier - Yahoo! News. Eric commented: "24,000 prisoners released in one year due to budget cuts, not rehabilitation. and this will not affect the public's safety?"



"Men fight for liberty and win it with hard knocks. Their children, brought up easy, let it slip away again, poor fools. And their grandchildren are once more slaves." - D.H. Lawrence


Wednesday, March 24, 2010



Reader Jeff D. mentioned that he noticed that SurvivalBlog is now in the top 7,500 US web sites' traffic ranking, on Alexa. Thanks for making the blog such a great success! Every link helps.

---

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



We live in Tornado Alley which means we've had more than a few opportunities to break out the 72 hour kits and find out what works and what doesn't. However, one thing we were surprised to find was that we hadn't figured out what to do when the crisis extends through bedtime, or when it occurs while the kids are asleep. If you have to "hunker down" during a crisis, it'll take a while for you or the kids to get sleepy. For the adults, this isn't that big a deal, but when children miss sleep, they have a tendency to become cranky and irritable. Since that is the last thing adults need, here is some things we learned, both from emergency situations and from co-sleeping with our children when they were younger, that might help give other folks some ideas to take care of this aspect of preparedness.

* Let them snuggle up to you - touch helps many children feel more secure. I've had children fall asleep with their back against mine, or with just the top of their head touching my leg. It helped me calm down as well since it helped me keep tabs on them while they were asleep (I'm a light sleeper when my kids are sleeping in the room with me).

* Light massage - Depending on the child, a light massage on the neck or even brushing hair away from the face can relax a child enough to sleep. I've found it works well with toddlers and young children. I think my older kids would look at me funny if I tried that with them now.

* Smaller babies can be held or swung - My husband would hold our babies in his arms and gently swing them back and forth in front of him. This was the only way he could put them to sleep when they were with him. I couldn't duplicate that effect, but in a way I had it easier. All I had to do was hold them on my chest and they would fall asleep.

* Keep a routine as much as possible - Routines help children feel secure, not to mention learn that everything has a time, including sleep. In a crisis, this need becomes even more pronounced, so try to keep routines the same as much as possible, even if the location is different.

* Create a transition time - Create a space between regular activities and bedtime when the television is off, communication equipment is turned down or moved so that the kids won't focus as much on it (very difficult that one), any games are quiet, and bedtime is clearly acknowledged as coming soon, even for parents.

* Be aware of their security or lack thereof during the day - Watch to see how your children are handling the changes that come with a crisis. Doing what you can to make sure they feel secure during the day will help when the darkness arrives, visibility is lessened and the only security they see is their little group in the glow of the lantern.

* If children are used to sleeping alone, give them some space before bed - Sometimes, again depending on the child and most definitely with older children, it might help to create boundaries, even if it is just "their space" around their sleeping bag. Our kids go through this in phases, though this need for personal space seems to grow as the children do.

* Try to all go to sleep together as a family - Though there may be a need to stay abreast of information or keep watch, try to make sure one parent or adult member of the family goes to sleep at the same time as the kids. Kids live by example and if you don't make sleep a priority when the time comes, they won't put much emphasis on it either.

There are also a few things we've found help in non-crisis, day to day life that make sleeping or just resting more feasible in a crisis situation.

* Have a routine - We have seven kids, and I've learned that the freewheeling schedules I grew up with don't help when life truly goes crazy. One would think it would go the other way, but our experience has been that when you don't have a scheduled bedtime it is far too easy to let all sorts of things slide in a crisis. And if the kids have been taught that any time is good for anything, it puts added stress on the parents who may need that time to talk or just relax for a moment (not to mention possibly getting a few winks in themselves). This is true of more than just bedtime. Meals made at the same, general time every day, traditions that surround little events (like prayer before meals or a small routine regarding when a person leaves the house) and other regular, scheduled events give a child structure and a sense of control in a world that has far more chaos than order in it. These schedules and routines should have some amount of flexibility, obviously, but when a tornado warning is announced or a flash flood is creeping along your street, you'll have something to modify as opposed to chaos and the terror that comes with it.

* In line with this, have a consistent nap time - Sometimes we let it go, depending on the child. But every time I let a kid fall asleep at 4pm I regretted it that night.

* Make clean up part of bedtime - I didn't grow up in a house that made at least clearing a path through the room part of the evening routine. I've tried to do that with my kids and it's been a lifesaver when a tornado warning came in the middle of the night. I can't imagine trying to herd sleepy kids to a safe location while trying to step over toys, clothes, and/or assorted games. Because the floor has been clear, I've been able to pick toddlers up out of bed with minimal wake-up, giving them and me a greater chance they'll fall asleep again soon (this depends on the kid but at the very least it provided a smooth transition to waking up and kept them calm... at best we have had children fall right back asleep once settled in).

* Turn off the television as much as possible - We all know these things (television, video games, Internet) are highly addictive. Much has already been written about that, but I'll just add that when we keep television restricted to the weekends our kids sleep better, especially our boys. One son in particular has a tendency to wake up in the middle of the night if he watches too much television. I have no idea why but for our family this is true.

* Spend time with them during the day - I know in our current culture it's very difficult to spend time with your kids. I'm lucky in that I get to stay home with my kids while my husband works. Getting used to being around kids all day (and often at night if they aren't feeling well) is another essay in itself, but I just want to add that whether or not you stay home with them, it's very easy to push them aside -- yes, even stay-at-home parents. Spending time with them during the day, whether it's making a meal together, playing a game, teaching them a skill or just doing chores, teaches you more about your individual child's temperament (very useful in a crisis situation) and, we've found, makes bedtime less of a problem.

* Get some sleep yourself - I know I mentioned this in the earlier section regarding a crisis, but I mention it again because kids really do live by example. Our kids never had any illusions about fun and exciting stuff that went on after they went to sleep because once or twice I would let the kids stay up while I got ready for bed (I made it clear that when I went to bed, they did as well). They learned pretty fast that nothing exciting happened after their bedtime, and that mom and dad got tired just like they did.



Sir,
Introductory Note: Some of the activities suggested in this letter may not be legal in your country or your US State. Please ensure that you are familiar with any related laws before attempting any of the methods outlined below. They are therefore provided for information only:

With regard to the recent article on semi-anonymous Internet access and the use of wi-fi, by Jeff T:

I agree with many of the suggestions in this article, but also wanted to expand on these and identify a number of possible additional risks associated with using wi-fi connectivity.

Ben from Tennessee is quite right that one of the biggest “finger prints” left behind on public wireless networks is the MAC address of the wireless interface within the PC, indeed many pay-to-use public wi-fi systems use the MAC as part of the browsing session validation process, so linking and storing details of the MAC used to any account details (when, where, how long, and more importantly what public IP address was used connecting to the Internet). The MAC is “burned” into every network interface at the time of manufacture (wired and wireless) and is unique to that device – effectively its DNA or finger print.

There are a number of ways that you can “hide” your real MAC address online (wired and wi-fi – and you may want to consider the wired option if staying in hotels with wired only connectivity etc), but one of the simplest for users of Microsoft Windows is SMAC. I have no relationship with this company, other than having paid for and used their products over many years, both personally and professionally). This tool allows you to change the MAC address of your wired and wireless interfaces’ through a Windows based application. Regular changing of your MAC address is the first step to reducing the audit trail of wi-fi connectivity you leave behind – especially if you use free to access/non pay-to-use/no-need-to-register systems.

There is a “feature” of Microsoft Windows, when wi-fi is enabled, that a lot of people do not know about! (Yes, I know we should all be using some form of Linux, I prefer Ubuntu & Gentoo, but this is aimed at those who are happy with “Bill” and lack some of the technical ability required to move to a Linux based system – at least initially).

When a wireless enabled PC running Microsoft Windows is unable to find any wi-fi access point (hot spot) with which to connect, it can (at least in its default configuration) actively seek one out. To do this it sends out provocative wireless signals attempting to connect with a network it has previously connected with. It will cycle through all of the network identities (names) it has previously worked with. All of these packets are sent in the clear and can be captured by anyone with a simple wireless tool running in “sniffing mode” nearby. The key issue here is that all of the network names you have connected with are disclosed cyclically over a few minutes. Coupled with an online resource such as WiGLE, this information can be used to establish a profile of the PC owner – where you live, work, eat, drink coffee, go to the gym etc, anywhere you use your portable PC with wi-fi. You may want to check to see if your home or employers wi-fi access point is on WiGLE?

Another aspect of wi-fi seldom considered by most people relates to OPSEC [and COMSEC]. In a localized grid down situation it is pretty obvious who has power in my neighborhood, as their wi-fi access point is clearly powered up and sending wireless signals that reach several hundred yards away – those access points on higher floors of high rise buildings, or those up the hill with a clear line of site to my house, go even further. Since the central office is still up on batteries or generator, these people keep their ADSL router on to maintain access to the Internet, and since they normally use wi-fi to connect with their PC’s, they continue to do so. Whilst this may not be so much of an issue for those “in the wilds” it is an issue for those in urban and sub-urban environments, where the neighbors, or more correctly their battery powered laptop powered up to watch a DVD or listen to a CD, spotting your access point could bring unwanted attention to your front door?

In my neighborhood with the majority of wi-fi hot spots (>98%) off due to the power failure, the signals from the few that are still working appear to go that much further, due to the greatly reduced interference. You may want to try this the next time the power goes off in your neighborhood – you will be amazed when you see all of these new, but very weak, wireless signals from those with UPS systems and back-up power within ~½ a mile of your home. Those that use their business names as the wireless network identity really stick out, as do the people who name their home wi-fi networks after the family name or home address (e.g. “Holmes home network” – I can look you up in the phone book, or even worse “128_Western_Avenue” – I can read a map!)

You also need to remember that even with the access point turned off, the client PC (or Macintosh etc.) will be sending out those provocative wireless signals in an attempt to connect with “something”. These signals can also be detected and give your location away, along with the fact you have access to power & working technology! This is especially a problem if your PC is set up to allow client to client connections over wi-fi (also known as “ad-hoc” connectivity – you may have this turned on by default) A simple Windows PC nearby will spot this device easily – and what did you call your client PC, another possible OPSEC leak? I did wonder if this could have been an issue with “movie night” in your novel, "Patriots", though the remote location probably reduced the risks?

To prevent any wireless signal becoming a problem you should always be sure to turn off any wireless capability (Wi-fi, Bluetooth, WiMax etc) if you are not using it, if only to save on the battery drain, and remember to do it at both ends of the link. This is equally true for PC's, Mobile phones, PDA's, and if you have a much newer car - its integrated Bluetooth/hands free capabilities too !

On a more general level, there are many PC related problems with achieving anonymity on the Internet, with processor IDs (turn this off in the BIOS), TPMs (Trusted Platform Modules – an embedded secure crypto-processor on the latest models – turn it off), License ID’s – Operating systems, including automatic software updates etc, and a whole host of other “meta data” that gets sent with all of our network traffic. Ask what is your online media player or virus guard/firewall downloading for you in the background whilst you thought you were being anonymous? For the more technically minded and PC savvy, downloading a copy of Wireshark to your PC can be quite enlightening, and frightening when you see what it is doing “in the background” over the network to which you are connected.

Certainly buying an older laptop PC and using this (with an ever changing MAC address) can go some way to achieving local anonymity when using wi-fi, but you still have issues with data remaining on the PC that is resent at a later date, and this is less than ideal. It is possible to run most PC’s without a hard drive – just physically remove it yourself, delete it in the BIOS, unplug it - leaving it in place in the laptop, or just buy a used PC from a company that has already removed it as part of their disposal security procedures.

Using another working and Internet connected PC you can download and “burn” a bootable CD or DVD (sometimes called an “ISO image”) that will give you a complete operating system with Internet access and an email client. It does everything your “normal” PC does, but when you switch this off it will not retain any historical data, and when you restart it, it will always boot “clean” with no residual meta-data from your previous online activities – you can transfer any data you wish to retain to a USB thumb drive, suitably encrypted of course, but never import this back onto the "anonymous" PC!

If you do not feel confident with doing this yourself, you can download or purchase bootable disc’s that are sold as simple “data recovery” tools – these are mostly Linux boot disks that help you to recover your data from the hard drive if Windows fails. They work quite well as anonymous operating systems if you take the correct precautions and should only cost a few dollars at most. You do not want or need professional level tools, and many are available pre-configured for your specific make and model of laptop (these are the ones you typically pay for). Put the disk in, hit the power button, and less than a minute later you have something that looks a bit like Windows, and after a few minutes getting familiar with it you should be browsing the Internet.

Finally there is a "whole other article” on anonymous proxy methods (e.g. TOR) which should be used in conjunction with all of the above methods when attempting some form of anonymity on the Internet.

The reality check with all of this is: If you are being specifically targeted by the authorities (or “hacker community”) there is little you can do to prevent yourself from being monitored, especially if you repeatedly conduct all of your online activities from a specific location (e.g. this could be a single wi-fi hot spot in the library, or a wider town area with multiple wi-fi connection points).

Only the “perpetual traveler” without a known itinerary or means of having their travel activities traced can hope to begin to achieve true anonymity online using these techniques, but that should not stop us from taking the most basic steps to maintaining our where possible.

Kind Regards, - Ian

 

SurvivalBloggers:
In response to the letter, Semi-Anonymous Internet Access: Connecting to publicly available wireless networks (or piggybacking on an unsecured, private wireless network) does add a degree of anonymity - but comes with a few caveats.
1) It may be illegal where you are. Anything illegal you do may put the owner of the access point into legal trouble as well. The law is generally poorly worded or undefined when it comes to the area of ownership of wireless access. Do your research.
2) Professionally maintained wireless access points will have audit logs, which may include time and date of access, MAC address, computer name or user name, customer identifier (if any), and what sites you visited. Never do anything that would connect your identity to that audit trail.
3) Unless secured by another method (such as HTTPS, used by e-mail providers and online vendors) connecting to an unprotected wireless access point exposes you to the risk of someone eavesdropping your internet activity, or possibly even infecting your computer with viruses. Be security minded.
4) Just like using the public computer at the library, you lose anonymity if you establish a routine. Connecting to the same network every day means, should someone be trying to find you, they just have to watch that network and wait for you to attach yourself to it.
5) As JWR's son mentioned, doing anything which connects to your personal identity, or engaging in a routine you engage on elsewhere, will eliminate your anonymity. Criminals have been prosecuted for crimes because they paused long enough to check a friend's facebook page. Limit the work you do during that session to what you must do, preferably downloading it to your hard disk rather than reading it "live", so you can disconnect and leave. The more time you're connected, the more you're vulnerable.

Using someone else's wireless internet access is perhaps the easiest way to greatly decrease your internet signature. There is the problem of the MAC address. A MAC address is a code programmed into your wireless network card. The easiest way to change it is to buy a new network card, but that gets expensive. For many cards, it's possible to find a utility (oftentimes not by the vendor) that changes the MAC address on that card. Find it, download it, learn to use it. There is nothing illegal about changing your MAC address.

JWR's son was also correct that the easiest way to sidestep data leakage is to do as the government does it - one computer for sensitive (personal) data, and one computer with no personal data. You may take data from the non-personal over to the personal, but never ever transfer anything from the personal computer to the non-personal, and never ever use the non-personal to visit your favorite web sites (e-mail, facebook, gaming sites, work-related sites, blogs, etc.) Your web visiting habits are as individual as a fingerprint. Wear gloves.

Some other ways to get privacy - download and use The Onion Router (TOR). TOR is perfectly legal [in most locales], but jumps your connection through 10 or 20 other random connections, so the data is effectively scrambled. It isn't a cure-all, because it can be circumvented, with the right know-how.

Use a minimalist browser. "The more plumbing the easier it is to spring a leak" is very true with computers. Tomcat is an example of a browser that permits text-only. Using it in combination with tools like TOR is a force multiplier.

Consider joining a darknet. A darknet is a private network - imagine it as being its own, tiny Internet. The best would be to have wholly independent network cabling, but that is rarely a possibility. A properly made darknet is like a virtual speakeasy - encrypted access to it, and a wide selection of sensitive information, all protected from outside prying eyes.

Learn about encryption. PGP is available, for free, to anyone smart enough to compile it, and it has beaten federal investigations before. Unless it is encrypted, you should consider it unsecured.

Finally, take care of your passwords. Learn how to make a good one (in the case above, the user encrypted his entire computer with a page-long passage - making it effectively impossible to crack through conventional means), learn to change them regularly, and keep them secret. - "Dieselman"



James,
Your readers might be interested to know that the street view of their house can be viewed by anyone using Google Maps.

If they do not wish to have the view showing all your expensive SUVs and G.O.O.D. vehicles, do the following:

1. Using Google Maps, find your address.
2. Activate the Street View for that address.
3. At the bottom of the view is a link that says "Report A Problem."

By clicking that link, you are taken to a form that allows you to request that your house photo be removed. Simply follow the directions on the form.

I did it for my house and it took about a week. Even then, the view was only partially blocked. I send another report and they changed it so that my house is completely blocked out from the front view.

Watch your top knot, - Jim H.



Dear Mr. Rawles:

Having read both of the letters about Northeastern Colorado Retreats and having personally lived the general area since 1967 I wish to offer the following comments. I believe there are merits in both letters.

The area is best described as semi-arid with an annual rainfall in the range of 12-13 inches per year; but, keep in mind we are recovering from a 10 year drought with average annual rainfall around 8 inches. These averages are accurate as our family has farmed and have kept accurate records since 1973. We have a large garden and routinely can more food than we consume with the balance going to like minded individuals that we barter with for services and goods or to the local food pantry. Yes we have to irrigate but we have two windmills, one for livestock and one for the garden that provide plenty of water on with no electricity what so ever. These wells are 55 feet deep with the pump base set at 45 feet. Ground water level runs in the 35-40 foot range depending on the time of year. We also have a domestic well 100 feet deep with the pump at 75 feet. There is live water 1/2 mile to the east and two fresh water springs with potable water within 1-1/2 miles of the house. One is concealed. Over the years we have planted and raised close to a mile of tree lines to protect animals, the garden and buildings. An orchard provides four different fruits and three different berries. Is one able to live off the land here? Yes, with years of preparation.

While not evident, many people in this area are silently preparing. Individuals are visiting and pacts are being discussed. Multiple lines of communication and defense are being quietly developed. Looters and thieves ("foragers") will not see a beehive but they will encounter a deadly swarm of bees. These people have been shooting and hunting together all their lives. 300 to 400 yard shots on coyotes are not uncommon. Can the area be defended? Yes, with preparation.

Incidentally, I have a friend that is actually moving out of southeast Nebraska after growing up there. He says "Do a Google search on 'Rulo, Nebraska and look back into the 1970s. Some things haven't changed". I can't comment, those are just his feelings and as 22 year veteran he must know something.

Sure the economy is poor, but what difference will that make if the SHTF.

The point I am trying to make is what SurvivalBlog is about. There is no perfect retreat location. You have to prepare. We have, in northeastern Colorado and western Nebraska, what we feel is an adequate retreat location for us. But, we have been preparing for over 40 years. You can not move into this area, or probably most areas, and be adequately prepared in the first year, two, or in some cases ten. Resources and allies take time to develop. - F.M. in Colorado



SurvivalBlog's Poet Laureate, George Gordon, sent this: Underemployment Hits 20% in Mid-March

H.H. spotted this: North Korean finance chief executed for botched currency reform. H.H.'s comment: "How ironic. In the United States, when a Treasury Secretary or Fed Chairman screw up the nation's economy through back-door deals, insider trading and the manipulation of the currency, they are granted even more power. In North Korea, even if you're just trying to do your job, you're treated a bit differently."

Items from The Economatrix:

Japan Joins China in Reducing Holdings of US Treasury Debt

Bonds Reveal US Losing AAA Status

IMF Warning Wealthiest Nations About Their Debt

$3/Gallon Gasoline Possible this Summer

Bernanke: Bank Bailouts "Unconscionable"

Job Loss Takes a Toll on Mental Health




Kyle was the first of several readers to mention this: Poll: Most Americans Fear U.S. Economy Could Collapse

   o o o

UN: Polluted water killing, sickening millions

   o o o

My Coast to Coast AM interview inspired a talented photographer to create this: Beans, Bullets, and Band-Aids.

   o o o

SurvivalBlog's Editor At Large Michael Z. Williamson found a link to a YouTube video showing a nifty sandbag tool. Mikes's comment: "Very clever. It fills them with enough slack space left for a fold or tie."




Eli: "No, I walk by faith, not by sight. It means that you know something even if you don't know something. It doesn't have to make sense, it's faith, it's faith. It's the flower of light in the field of darkness, it's giving me the strength to carry on, you understand?"

Solara: "Is that from your book?"

Eli: "No it's Johnny Cash, Live at Folsom Prison." - Denzel Washington as Eli, The Book of Eli. (Screenplay by Gary Whitta)


Tuesday, March 23, 2010


I'm scheduled to be the guest in the first hour tonight on the Nightwatch syndicated radio show, from 9 to 10 p.m. Central time in the U.S.

--

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



I work as an independent hospital contractor. Our home base is in Montana, but I am independent. I work as temporary health care staff at hospitals, being licensed in about 5 states. I usually make pretty good money traveling, but I miss having a fixed point in case of crisis.

My wife and I really enjoy living in Montana, we were having a good life: hunting in the mountains panning for gold and camping. While working at a good paying contract, the hospital I was with had asked about renewing the job for another several weeks. I accepted the renewal since the pay was adequate and my wife was taking classes locally. Suddenly, the hospital terminated the existing contract early leaving me scrambling for another job. Usually during the winter months there are more offers than I can handle. This time it was different. Business was suddenly down about 40% nationwide.

I had what I thought was an adequate emergency fund and plenty of survival tools and supplies. Most of our belongings were in storage. I had a cargo trailer which I converted to a ‘camper-survival’ shelter. We thought we were prepared to re-locate anywhere in the country where there was work.
Murphy’s Law kicked in about two weeks after the last day of my job. The head gasket blew on my Toyota Truck, making a serious dent in our emergency/travel fund. Remaining in a fixed place waiting for repairs was expensive with no income to offset the rent. It was the dead of winter in Montana with an average temperature of 20 below at night. It was not practical to camp, since we had no transportation to and from the woods. What used to be ‘fun’ was now ‘threatening’ with the money running out.

Since I had to wait for the truck to be repaired, I used the time to prepare ourselves for another contract offer, I soon got lucky and we had an offer in Texas. Unfortunately, without a vehicle we were stuck indoors, unable to pack our trailer. We worried that the repairs would not be completed before the contract begins in Texas, and that was about two weeks away. The truck was finally repaired giving us about 15 days to get to Texas.

My ‘hard’ experience became a test. It was not a melt-down of society but our current problems were about as I figured it about 10% of what a real crisis would entail. We packed a chain saw, small generator, tools, clothes, and anything else we predicted we would need during the trip and while living in Texas. We had experience camping for several months with our trailer, but never in sub-zero weather. Most importantly, the stress level was high which made everything harder.

With the truck fixed we began "getting out of dodge". We hoped to go south and avoid some of the coldest weather. After packing, we realized there was too much stuff for us to sleep comfortably in our camper-trailer. We re-packed and put about 40% of our gear back in storage. I set priorities to keep, among other basic tools, a battery-powered circular saw, drill, chain saw, 700 watt generator and our sleeping bags. Cooking equipment was also a major part of our load. I left our long guns behind in storage, taking only one Benelli slide-action shotgun, a .22 [rimfire rifle] and a revolver. We would have to stay in apartments or motels so I figured that from previous trips that firing a .308 inside an apartment or populated area would be too dangerous to others during a confrontation (we counted on any work being in an urban area).

It’s important to note that we could not plan or prepare for camping in the open country with a tent, fire, etc. That would put us out of touch with possible employment and required too much extra equipment. In a 100% survival scenario I could foresee possibly camping in our canvas wall tent in a secure area, but not in the woods. The best I could think of in a serious disaster would be to make some kind of deal with a mini-storage and set up the tent behind the fence. Not very romantic.

The trip to Texas would cross into my home state of Missouri. We decided since it was the holiday week we could stay with family and friends we had not seen in 5 years. Our Missouri friends and relatives had always given us an open invitation, often asking when we would return. This was also an opportunity to save on Motel costs on the trip. The contract was to start on January 4, so remaining in Missouri would help us avoid the costs of sitting in a Motel in Texas. I don’t start to make money until the contract begins. We made phone calls to everyone telling them that after five years we would finally get to spend the holidays there.

After the truck repairs, the next major problem occurred during the trip. A winter storm had settled in the mid-west. Travel was extremely difficult, made worse pulling the trailer. Also there was the psychological ’effect’ of a deadline. With no other short-term option, we had to go. We hit black ice in Kansas causing our entire rig to slide into the oncoming lane. I managed to recover control, but the near-disaster shook us up pretty good. I drove an average of 35 MPH across Kansas in the winter storm. I was fearful that road conditions would prevent us from reaching our destination. Motel rates in one town were high and the fog was starting to settle in so we stopped early, and slept in our trailer. The fog was so thick we had trouble finding a Wal-Mart parking lot. At sundown, as my wife and I crawled into our sleeping bags we heard a loud Boom! This was the was the start of a big pile-up on the iced-over highway nearby. We had done the right thing stopping early, knowing when to quit.

The weather the next day was only slightly better, requiring very slow going. People were trying to get home for the holidays and taking the risk of driving too fast for road conditions. We saw the wrecked cars and trucks to prove it. We picked along, avoiding the Kansas City and its rush hour. We were trying to outrun another storm from the north by heading as far south as we could. When we finally arrived at our parents’ house, there was an unexpected reception. Our relatives seemed indifferent to our visit, and had no interest in the stories of our 1,400 mile trip. They did not care about hunting stories in Montana, camping, or gold panning. They spent the entire day watching sports television and talking about sports. They crowded around the television during a news report of the pile up of cars on the highway in Kansas we had experienced. When we tried to report on our first hand experiences, they ignored us. This attitude added to our stress.

We increasingly began to be viewed as inconvenient outsiders. This lack of respect started wearing on our nerves.
I tried to keep busy with constructive tasks. My portable generator was leaking gas, so I worked on it in the basement of the parents’ house, carefully laying out all of the parts searching for the source of the leak. I went back upstairs to attend to another matter and when I returned my 80 year old mother had taken the parts and placed them in random boxes. She was in the process of attempting to move the generator from the work table so the grandkids could have a place to play. She was trying to push the unit off of the table (waste high) and onto the floor. I was just in time to keep my Yamaha 700 watt generator from being smashed on the concrete. I sorted parts for two hours after that. My wife had similar stress in the kitchen, while attempting to cook for my parents. My mother had shut the stove burners off when my wife was trying to cook, somehow resenting the effort of my wife’s cooking. On the bright side, one older uncle and his wife of about 85 were highly interested in our lives, having done similar things after WW II in Wyoming.

The last straw and the strangest thing to happen, was when we threw away some accumulated trash. In organizing for next leg of the trip, I repacked food items into bags, which took up less room. The Oatmeal supply went into plastic bags rather in the bulky round box. I used the round cardboard container as a trash can in our (mostly private) sleeping room. After carefully tearing up some minor personal junk mail and receipts (I usually burn all of our mail for security reasons at home), I took the container to the kitchen to throw away , leaving it on the table. Later that day a relative who had taken little interest in our presence had emptied our shredded documents and trash onto the table. She was going through our trash, carefully sorting through the shredded documents and other trash, trying to put together the pieces as if it were a jigsaw puzzle. I looked down and she was piecing together one of my wife’s empty tampon boxes. This was the last straw. We decided to ‘try’ our friend’s homes for a few days.
We had been in regular contact with two of my best friends from Missouri over the years and looked forward to the holiday visits. Unfortunately, calls to one friend suddenly were not returned. I usually always talked to this guy. After numerous messages left I began to be concerned that someone had had a serious accident and was unable to communicate.
I told my wife, “That’s not like Tom, he usually returns calls right away.”

She said, “Maybe he does not want to talk to us.”

I replied, “That’s impossible, we talk all of the time, and he knew we were in the area.”
We never did hear from my friend until we were headed out of Missouri. I had made one last call and he answered. He said everything was ’fine’ but he was having some kind of arguments with his wife.
We visited my other friend, one I had known since grade school. He clearly stated his desire for use to come over and spend a few days. He is a lawyer with a big house and many guest rooms. He was also having trouble. His 24 year old live-in son had been arrested for DWI. His son also smashed some furniture in a drunken fit the night before we arrived. The stress of this family ’problem’ was evident. During the first night’s stay, the reception was cool. My friend did not talk much. He said he needed to go into the office the next day, a Sunday. His wife talked to us for only a brief period, spending most of the time watching television on her laptop computer, wearing earphones. I admit I questioned his ability to control his now ‘adult’ son and suggested throwing him out. Due to his son’s erratic behavior, I also felt our belongings were unsafe in the house. They had asked us to stay for several days. We left the next morning.

We re-packed our equipment , and, using our depleted funds, stayed in Motels during the rest of the Missouri ‘Holiday Family Visit’. We left for Texas earlier than planned, glad to be away from our ‘friends’ ‘and family‘. We finally arrived in Texas, mentally exhausted from the experience. It actually took several days to ‘recover’ from the trip. After I finally secured work, our financial situation began to right itself.

Lessons Learned

Our winter travel experience in my estimation was about 10% of what a real-world melt-down would be like:

1. Little Money
2. No Job
3. Bad Weather
4. Forced to ‘evacuate’ to a better place quickly.
5. Refuge with friends or relatives.

A ‘real’ melt down , I think, would include:

1. Lack of law and order, requiring more security arrangements during travel.
2. No ATM or Credit Cards, thus the need to carry large sums of cash.
3. Absolutely No Help from Others (based on what little help we did get from people we thought would help us AND the behavior of others in the household.

Knowing what we know now, in a Real Emergency the only chance would be to have a well-insulated, secure place with plenty of stored food and fuel. One would need a propane tank, wood cook stove and wood heating stove. Long-distance travel, relying on relatives or friends is ‘out’, for us. If we had to travel it would be to a motel/hotel with good security. The transaction would be in cash, no promises or favors from others. What would happen if one stayed with friends during a true melt-down and the live-in son decided to steal our survival equipment? Or vandalize our truck out of spite because he could not get his drug fix that day?
                 
Lessons Learned:

1. Have all of your equipment in good working condition. Do not expect to repair or maintain anything during a crisis trip even if you think you will remain in one place for one or two days. I had a small 700 watt generator I took along, that developed a fuel leak. I had all the parts spread out on a work table in the basement during disassembly in order, looking for the leak. I had left them out for a couple of hours only to return to find the parts thrown into a cardboard box! The reason: the kids wanted to play a game on the table I was using and my ‘stuff’ was in the way. Do not expect people to respect your property or understand why you have certain items. In addition, I could not help thinking that there was some envy or resentment by some family Members regarding our preparedness gear. I couldn’t help thinking that in a ‘real’ crisis kids or other people may attempt to vandalize, steal, or otherwise disable our gear if left unprotected. Keep your stuff locked up, no matter what or how relaxed you feel.

2. Have three portable light sources with you at all times. You have to be able at any given moment tell if your trailer chains are hooked up in a snow storm. It’s just as important to be able to read at the end of the day in a dark unfamiliar room. Few if any houses or even motel rooms have good reading or task lighting. The Dewalt 18 volt flex-light with an LED element was a very useful light source for us. We had a 12 volt charger in the truck for the Dewalt. We also both carry LED head lamps (hung around neck at night). I also had my sure-fire light. Sounds like camping in the woods? It’s harder camping in someone’s house due to the human factor. Other unpredictable people were around; including undisciplined kids. The job of camping out in someone else’s home is exponentially harder. I would also try to add to our gear a way to lock a door from the inside, any door.

4. If you like an alcohol drink at the end of the day, keep that in your personal gear, not stored away in the truck. My wife and I like a private drink at the end of the day in our bedroom away from the need to have a conversation with everyone else. It helped us unwind and plan the rest of the project, not to mention get away from impolite questions and improper behavior.

5. Bring your sleeping bags with you into the bedroom or hotel room. For some reason people do not provide enough blankets or bedding. One sister’s house provided us with a room, two small beds and  one blanket! People are used to turning up the thermostat. We like good bedding.  Also have ear-plugs. Kids and even adults in some households keep the television on at top volume 24/7. They will not give consideration to guests. What would you do if you had to sleep in the same room as snoring (or worse) strangers during a real melt-down?

6. This next lesson is important believe it or not. Go to a Laundromat and fish out of the trash an empty detergent bottle. Instead of wandering through a house looking for the bathroom, use the makeshift urinal in the bedroom. Don’t use a throw away drinking bottle or anything for human consumption for a urinal! It seemed to us that during the stressful time we had there was a greater propensity for accidents. While it’s irritating to pour your laundry urine bottle in the washer by mistake, think of what you would do in the dark if you made a mistake with a container for drinking. If I were (god forbid) to have to stay in a room for an extended time, I would make the purchase of a portable toilet a priority. Along with taking a shower once in a while, being able to carry out this function (in private) is of the highest necessity to help keep you sane. The rule is: you have enough stress already, do what you can to minimize any stress. For us, privacy is a stress reducer.

7. People you deal with that are not preparedness-minded will not understand you and for some reason work against you either consciously or subconsciously. I have read stories about this but it never hit home until our trip. I keep everything locked away and secure or on my person at people’s houses as if I were sleeping in a subway station or a public park. I don’t need curious teenagers or careless adults to have access to my valuable equipment and supplies (they really don’t understand your equipment, and will break it when your back is turned).  I had many experiences during our trip of this  happening on a ‘good day”. Who knows what someone may do in an actual emergency.

8. Be prepared to have people you thought were your friends or whom you could trust to suddenly at the last moment back out on promises, ignore agreements, be unavailable, or even be counterproductive to your situation. I don’t know where this comes from but it’s out there. Maybe it’s because people no longer have the skills or mindset to make even minor adjustments in their lifestyles to help friends or relatives. Conversation is a lost art. After experiencing this ‘new’ social trait numerous times, I can’t help thinking that there is always some level of envy and resentment going on in general towards preparedness minded people.

9. Television broadcasts have more truth to most people than the written or spoken word. I tried to talk about our near-disaster sliding on black ice and the car pile ups we encountered. People either were disinterested or cut us off in mid-sentence to talk about something else. These same people we noticed would crowd around the television to hear newscaster’s reports of the same events. In a real melt-down these same people will probably believe government propaganda or lies before they listen to a verbal account of a shooting or other social unrest. They would be inclined to turn you in for a reward, or for some other kind of recognition.

10. Have food that is ready to eat with you in your personal gear. We avoided most family meals after we noticed unsafe sanitation practices going on in one household. I had limited health insurance and needed to be prepared to work, not spend time in the hospital suffering from food poisoning. Being aware of unsafe sanitation which will be more important if one is faced with no hospital or limited access to antibiotics in a true ’hard-core’ emergency.

11. My main advantage was traveling with a caring, supportive spouse. My wife did not mind sleeping in the trailer and tolerated our bad times with a positive attitude. She knows more about survival than I do, having grown up poor and under a Military Dictatorship in a third world country. She was much better had identifying the weaknesses of various people we met on our trip than I was.

12. During stress and moving I am more intolerant to people making disrespectful comments, digs, ‘jokes’ poking fun at my situation, and lack of empathy. Stress has a way of doing that for me. I have read of people taken hostage also have this problem. Little things matter. Plan for this kind of added stress by avoiding people likely to behave in this way. This is another reason to have your own place prepared and avoid staying with other people (unless they are very trustworthy). My wife and I seriously considered sleeping in our camping trailer, even at 10 below rather than spending another night in the house with my brother-in-law who made continuous jokes (to his kids) about us ‘living in a tent’ (referring to our propensity to camp and practice survival skills) . He also made a comment to my wife how she “must like having running water [in the house]”. Pride is a sin. Many of these basic teachings were reinforced during the trip.

13. Have at least $10,000 ready at all times for emergencies. When things start to heat up, have it in cash. During the storm, it was difficult to access an ATM. I was able to negotiate auto repairs at a cheaper price by paying cash. During a ‘real’ crisis the need for cash in some form proved to us to be even more important based on our ‘experiment’. Get a money belt and pre-arrange secret compartments.

14. You won’t have the time or the place to camp, pitch a tent or otherwise ‘rough it’ in a bug-out situation. All you can do is keep moving to your designated objective. Remaining too long in one unfamiliar place can become both expensive and unsafe. It would have been impractical to camp out during our winter trip. A.) It would have taken too long to obtain fuel for a fire. B.) Setting up and taking down a tent would have cut into our travel time. C.) Camping ‘looks’ wrong—people will investigate an obvious campsite, but will often leave a trailer alone. Our trailer is based on the cargo design, making it easy to overnight discretely in Urban areas.

15. We tried to carry too much stuff. Many items we carried were useful but only when we arrived at the final destination. It was very hard to make room to sleep in our trailer en route. It was very hard to get (sometimes to find) some of the basic tools and food due to the amount of stuff we packed.

16. Have some way at the end of the day to relieve stress and relax. We found that running or jogging (despite the cold weather) followed at sundown with some beer or whisky along with a good novel, as well as the radio, away from other people to be our method of choice.
 
17 Have some method of contacting people who you consider truly to be your friends and who are on your side to give encouragement during a crisis. During our emergency, we relied on our cell phones
and the Internet to contact real friends. Our long distance conversations with real friends helped remind us of our strengths. They helped us focus. The encouragement helped keep our spirits up. I had read about hostages relying on messages from supportive people (and being devastated by negative messages), and now understand better the need for this support network communication. In a ‘real’ Crisis one would have to consider some type of short wave radio and/or relay messages via short wave. I can’t think of any other practical method. I want to get some type of portable short wave transceiver and license.

18. Don’t expect people around you other than you spouse or trusted friends to behave reasonably during a crisis. I now don’t even expect grow up people  to behave like adults. Keep your equipment just as secure as if you were in the middle of the parking lot of an inner-city. You never know what people may do out of envy, greed or resentment, not to mention hunger in a real crisis.

19. As hard as this sounds: try a ‘trial run’. See point #15. Pack everything you think you will ‘need’ and drive about 200 miles. See what happens.  I really wish I had done this when times were good, instead
of the last minute.   This would be a great weekend family project that could require very little money. 

Maybe this list of lessons do not apply to your situation. You may think, ‘I have a great support network; this story pertains little to my situation. I have plenty of money and resources.   I don’t have to worry about outside help. ’ I hope so. That’s what I used to think. My biggest lesson learned during a stressful ‘survival’ move is how much even we, as preparedness minded people  took for granted. Moving under the best of conditions is stressful and can wear you down. Plan to have the basics always available: Have someplace secure and quiet to sleep, a place to go to the bathroom, illumination, food, and a few comfort items. Stay away from (or if you have to) be ready for rejection, indifferent (sometimes hostile) friends and relatives in a real crisis.

I only covered a few real-life experiences we encountered on our latest “10% crisis” trip.  After looking back on the trip and knowing what we know now, the best thing to do is to have a fixed place that you own to retreat to during hard times. Get there as quickly and as early as possible. Stay in your own place. Have preparedness equipment there, ready for use. An RV [or fifth wheel trailer] would have been more valuable than our camping trailer for the trip but would have been greater expense and harder to tow. Again, looking back,  staying with relatives or friends en-route, even for one night will not be  to our advantage during a crisis.  Staying with other people  distracted us , and almost prevented us from completion of our ‘mission’.  During the trip, my wife and I kept fantasizing about a private cabin in a quiet place. We kept thinking of someplace with a wood stove, plenty of Fuel, Food, and Water. We found being a ‘refugee’ carries with it too much potential for people to be emotional and/or create problems for one another in good times let alone during some disaster. I learned there were very few individuals we  could count on. We kept asking ourselves: “if we experience these problems on a good day, a ‘Holiday’ what can we expect on a ‘bad day’, a crisis, a melt-down of our current system?



Mr. Rawles:
I have been a registered pharmacist for 34 years. Most drugstores and insurance companies allow you to get up to a 90-day supply of prescription medications at a time. The “Refill-Too-Soon” edit, which is what prevents you from getting a prescription right after getting another one for the same drug filled is usually set at 75% of the days supply.

For example, if you are taking a high blood pressure medication once a day, then a 90-day supply is 90 pills. Seventy-five percent of ninety days is sixty-eight days. Therefore, if we use April 1, 2010 as the day you first fill your prescription for a 90-day supply and allowing 68 days to get a refill we come up with the following schedule:

04/01/10
06/07/10
08/14/10
10/20/10
12/27/10
03/04/11

This refill schedule will result in you getting a 540 day supply in only 338 days. Keep in mind that if your physician only allows for 3 refills, you would need to get a new prescription before your fourth refill.

However, many people can not afford to pay their co-pay for a three month supply at a time, even though the cost of the medicine is less for one ninety-day supply than it is for three fills of thirty day supplies. This strategy will still work for a 30 day supply. Your 23 day (seventy-five percent) refill schedule would be as follows:

04/01/10
04/24/10
05/17/10
06/09/10
07/02/10
07/25/10
08/17/10
09/09/10
10/02/10
10/25/10
11/17/10
12/10/10
01/02/11
01/25/11
02/17/11
03/12/11

This schedule will allow you to get 480 days worth of medicine in just 345 days. The same caveat about refills applies. If your doctor only writes for 11 refills, then you will need to get a new prescription before your 12th refill.



James,

I read with great interest the piece by Jeff M. on building kits. I was kind of taken aback by his statement "I just won't be one of those guys who carries a purse". I guess in these days I need to understand what a purse is because I am a professional person who goes to meeting all over the state in a suit and tie and I always have what my family calls my purse with me. I carry an old trusted backpack that contains my laptop, but also carries all of my immediate survival needs (knife, first aid, water, food, compact 2 meter ham radio etc.) These days no one bats and eye when you carry a backpack, it is really quite the norm. I also carry in my car a Maxpedition Fatboy concealed carry bag, which I bring with me depending on the situation. I just think it is funny that someone would sacrifice security and protection because of the perception that they were carrying a purse, I guess I am secure enough in my masculinity that if the only option was to carry a purse, I would carry an actual purse to keep my essential gear with me.

Keep up the good work, what I have learned on this site is invaluable to me. - Mike in Oregon

Greetings,
I would like to first commend Jeff M. for his great post on the various survival kits. I would like to add that there is another important survival kit that should be considered: The I'm Never Coming Home (INCH) pack is a kit that you would use in event of TEOTWAWKI if you were forced to abandon your home. Usually consisting of an internal framed pack with everything you would need to survival for the long term. This includes shelter (usually a backpacking tent), sleeping bag, sleeping pad, stove, stove fuel, mess kit, food, water, and many other items essential for survival in the post-apocalyptic world. This kit can be added on to the contents of your Bug Out Bag for more versatility if you already have some of the required items.

Strength and Honor, - Ryan S.


Mr. Rawles -
Reading this gave me some good ideas, but also made me stop and take inventory of what I currently do. Here are the contents of my kits as of this moment. Maybe someone will in turn get some ideas from what I do.

The most important safety item is between your ears. Being alert, not going places you should not, situational awareness, planning for emergencies ahead of time, getting all the training you can, all depend on your using your brain, eyes, and ears.

Every Day Carry (EDC) - Every time I leave our house all of this is either in a pocket, on my belt, or in my pouch (worn over my kidney, not in the rear). Items are arraigned so loss of any one item such as my wallet, will not leave me without cash, ID, or credit card. personal identification - Driver's License, concealed carry permit, Sheriff department volunteer ID (it is amazing how few notice it is a volunteer ID
not a regular department ID), Passport card (this is a valid USA passport usable for ID, but in a card format) assorted ID - medical, dental, AAA, Insurance agent, auto insurance, CPR, card credit cards - American Express, Discover, VISA, MasterCard - 99% of the time I only use the two cards that give me cash back, but I have the other two on me in case my primary cards are not accepted - if you can't pay the card off in full each month, don't use the card! Sash (nothing larger than $20 bills - try to get a taxi driver or other small business to accept anything larger!), change (minimum $15 for vending machines & tolls), checkbook cell phone - the most important safety tool I carry - Do you know how to send and receive text messages? They will get through when voice messages will not.
Keys - house, cars, office, spare car key
Medications - prescriptions, Anti-Diarrheal
Knife - Swiss Army knife - in checked luggage when flying
Multi-tool - Buck Tool - in checked luggage when flying
Personal protection - handgun & spare magazine - when flying this gets left behind
Keychain based tools - S&W screwdriver
Pocket PC eWallet (great program, keeps all my important data 256 bit encrypted, and synced between the Pocket PC, laptops, desktops)
Panasonic DMC-ZS3K pocket digital camera, in a leather case from Wal-Mart - wonderful very small camera with 12x optical zoom - fits in my pocket with my wallet.
Quark AA2 LED flashlight - learned about this here on SurvivalBlog - a great flashlight - can serve as a backup headlight for your car, not great but good enough to get you home.
Ear plugs
Pen & pencil
Napkins

Rolling computer bag - I need a laptop for work and for personal communication (e-mail, Skype, Vonage softphone) so this goes most places with me. All of this fits in the Wenger rolling computer bag.
PackSafe security kit - wonderful system that allows you to lock a bag to an unmovable object in a hotel room for security
Laptop with accessories (AC supply, mouse, headset, USB flash drives, USB hard drive, 30' Ethernet cable, memory card reader, cell phone tether cable, pocket PC VGA & USB cable, camera cable, camera charger)
Totes folding umbrella
Yaesu VX-7R 4 band ham radio (muti-band receive including AM, FM, and Weather bands), antenna, DC cable
Reading glasses, & repair kit
Pads & notebook, envelopes, address labels, stamps, business cards
First aid - bandages, Neosporin, vitamins, medicines, back scratcher, dental floss, Ziploc bags (Ziploc bags are your friends!)
Boy Scout signal mirror
Assorted wire ties
Pens, pencils, extra leads, eraser, highlighters
Laser pointer, AA cells
Comb, inflatable travel pillow, eye shades
Spare car key, ear plugs, AC outlet tester
United Airlines comfort kit - socks, toothbrush & paste, body lotion, Kleenex, eye shade - they give this to you on long flights in business class
Note from doctor about my walking stick - helps me get through security check points with my stick, handicap parking registration, ID holders (for Sheriff department ID to get through road blocks)

Car - the second most important safety item - particularly for someone like me who can't run well - it is your tool to let you G.O.O.D. and back home.
Make sure you have good tires, brakes, wipers, and have kept the gas tank at least half full.
spare tire & factory jack/tool kit - what the car came with.
2 quarts oil stored under hood - found a good spot to store this, and wish there was space for the ATF and washer fluid as well - this location keeps it where you need it and out of valuable storage space in the trunk.
Coat, Gore-Tex lined leather gloves, hat - always in the back seat of my car windshield sun shade
Ice scrapers, snow brushes - my normal commute is 30 minutes, but in a snow/ice storm I have had to stop to clean the windshield every 5 minutes.
napkins & Kleenex
2 - 1/2 liter water bottles
Disposable camera
Magnetic mount ham radio antenna
Jumper Cables - heavy duty

Shooting bag in trunk - bright colored, zippered (got this tip from Lt. Col. Dave Grossman - if you ever need to use your handgun, you may need more supplies than you will carry - so keep them in a brightly colored closed bag in your trunk - you can send someone with a spare car key to fetch this if things go bad)
100 rounds high grade carry ammo
100 rounds practice ammo
Spare magazines
Shooting glasses
Gentex 1030A active hearing protectors (Wolf Ears) - learned about these from Massad Ayoob - lets you hear (in full natural stereo) better than the unaided ear, while protecting your hearing from firearms noise - never mutes even for a second - in great demand for SWAT teams and the military.

Cloth bag in trunk
2 pairs leather/cloth heavy duty work gloves
Rain hat
Cell phone headset
Cell phone DC power cord
Laptop DC power cord
Ham radio DC power cord & belt clip
Felt tip marker

Milk crate in trunk - I am amazed that all this fits in the crate, but it does and keeps it organized and out of the way of other things I may put in my trunk.
Gallon windshield washer fluid
Quart of ATF
Spray can of WD-40
Large roll duct tape
Roll of packing tape
1/2 liter water bottle
Rag
County Emergency Preparation Guide Book - very well done, and has all the important contact info.
Craftsman 1/4" drive socket sets, metric & English
Small case with folding umbrella, flashlight & batteries, tire pressure gauge,
Pen, pad, and tools I added
Larger case with DC air compressor, duct tape, folding shovel, Accident
Report kit (disposable camera, tape rule, chalk, pen, accident report form), first aid kit, multitool, triangular reflector, emergency poncho, emergency blanket, work gloves, bungee cord, assorted wire ties, Battery terminal washers, Craftsman 3/8" drive socket wrench sets, metric & English, & screwdrivers Phillips & regular.

After taking inventory, I see places that need improvement, but my kits are always changing.

I hope some others get some useful ideas from my lists. - RAR

 

Jim,
Whenever I check in to read and catch up with SurvivalBlog, I try to think of something new I might contribute . I routinely fail, since your site is so encyclopedic on the topic of survival and family preparations.

However, I think the following might be helpful to many of my fellow readers.

As a first responder medic for a rural Volunteer Fire Department I have a belt that I can grab on my way out of the house when we get a call. It's the same belt some police officers use as an "inner belt". About 1.5 to 1.75 inches wide that fastens with Velcro . it has just the right stiffness to allow me to comfortably carry a nice load. I just wrap it around me - outside my pants belt loops - and have hands free carry of a multitude of trauma material, gloves, CPR shield, and other medical and "on scene" material such as flashlight, multi-tool, etc. Total weight is about 4 pounds. This is stuff I may need immediately at hand so I don't have to go through our large bag kits.

It has occurred to me that for some who work in offices, plants, stores etc, this system can convert nicely for a "get back home or to safety" survival kit. While you can choose to keep a small pack at work or in your car, having all the essential survival tools and material on a pouch belt that you can quickly wrap around you will ensure that you don't drop it or lose it along the way as you could a bag or small pack. This method also allows the weight to be carried on your hips, not in your hands or on your shoulder.

All the various size pouches can be found on Amazon.com or CheaperThanDirt.com or similar sites. just do a search for pouches and build your own belt kit. Everything goes in a nylon pouches with Velcro closures. In constructing mine I use nylon pouches of different sizes that ride on the belt. My belt kit has headlamp, extra AAA batteries, very small water bottle with purification tablets, 2 energy food bars, 2-strap respirator, small trauma kit, head lamp, medical gloves, leather work gloves, a few band aids & several blood stopper trauma dressings, one white wash cloth, antiseptic wipes, Neosporin, small pill bottle with aspirin, Advil, Imodium AD, antacid tabs, 50 feet of parachute cord, disposable "medical" flashlight, disposable lighter, fire starter material, and some other odds & ends. I even have an emergency Bivvy Sack from Adventure Medica. They really work well and I have used them to keep people warm when we have outdoor medical emergencies in the winter.

I highly recommend using many small pouches rather than a few larger ones so you don't have to rummage through larger fanny pack size pouches to find what you need. Using many smaller pouches will also keep the profile of your belt pack thin and allow you to more evenly distribute the weight.

Again, the benefit is that you are hands free when carrying your kit and all weight is distributed on the hips. Very hard to lose anything . When was the last time you lost a belt? Okay, you may look like Batman, but worn under a jacket or with your shirttails out, your belt kit will be invisible, organized, at your fingertips and light weight. - Marc N. in Alabama



GG sent this Wall Street Journal article: Public Pension Deficits Are Worse Than You Think

Reader S.M. sent us some more evidence that the US is slipping towards the edge of a bond rating downgrade by Moody's: Obama Pays More Than Buffett as U.S. Risks AAA Rating. Also, further economic difficulties with managing growing public debt: Lipsky Says ‘Acute’ Debt Challenges Face Advanced Economies.

Items from The Economatrix:

Agora Financial's Five-Minute Forecast

Court Says Fed Must Disclose Bank Bailout Records

A Salon opinion piece by Gene Lyons: It's Time for Wall Street to Pay

Health Care Companies Pull Stock Market Higher

Oil Edges Lower, Extending Friday's Losses

Spain Approves Bill to Overhaul Economy as Jobless Rate Hits 20%



Reader Greg C. wrote to mention that Wiggy's is continuing their 20% off sale on sleeping bags, with free shipping. Order soon, since they rarely extend their sales into the backpacking season!

   o o o

Frequent content contributor Brian B. sent this: There's a new buzz in gardening; With honey bees in decline, stacking-tray 'condos' attract mason bees that will pollinate fruit trees

   o o o

"Oxy" sent us this from The Wall Street Journal: Cartel Wars Gut Juárez, a Onetime Boom Town



"Five percent of the people think; ten percent of the people think they think; and the other eighty-five percent would rather die than think." - Thomas A. Edison


Monday, March 22, 2010


A slim majority of the congresscritters voted late on a Sunday night to pass the ill-conceived socialized healthcare legislation package into law, despite a huge public outcry. (And contravening the long-established rules whereby conference committees must create identical legislation for both the House and Senate.) So they shouldn't be surprised when We The People will find them no longer fit to represent us. I anticipate massive non-compliance with the new scheme, and routs of Democrat incumbents in the next three elections. (Not a single Republican voted for the bill.) There may be some brisk business in tar and feathers on the banks of the Potomac.
Attention Bureaucrats: Go ahead and send me my noncompliance fine bill for $695, because I'm not signing up!

---

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



In the last year, I have been on my latest “life journey”, wherein I have rediscovered preparedness. During my college years, my friends in engineering school and I discussed Y2K and possible outcomes. Obviously a bunch of electrical engineering students had no idea what would happen. But it did give me pause. What if the worst case situation occurred? What would my parents and I do? (I lived at home throughout college to save funds.)

On a limited budget, and even less knowledge, I did recognize two primary needs: water and firearms for self defense. Working at an internship gave me a few bucks more than most students, so I made use of it. We purchased over 100 gallons of bottled water and I purchased my first firearm—a Mossberg 590 shotgun. I soon supplemented it with a SIG-Sauer P228 9mm pistol and about a thousand rounds between the two—not much, but better than nothing. You don’t know what you don’t know, right? We, like many people stayed up until midnight on December 31st and breathed a sigh of relief.

Fast forward to Fall of 2008—current events dictated that we were in for challenging economic times and possibly quite a bit more. A trusted friend and I started discussing possible scenarios and what our reactions would be. Through a circuitous path, I found SurvivalBlog last Fall and was instantly hooked. When I discover a new topic of interest, I am a knowledge sponge. I have read dozens of books on survival as well as accomplishing “Level 2 Preparations” as described in the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course. Preparedness seems to be as deep a topic as engineering or my other passion, creative real estate investing. Among the easier things to do such as store ammo and properly bucket food, there are more dynamic pursuits such as putting together like minded individuals for support and growth. One of the biggest questions you have to ask yourself is, “Who’s on my team?”

My previously mentioned friend and I have discussed a multitude of different potential issues, everything from Grid Down to Invasion to Martial Law to short-term weather-related disasters and earthquakes. As the incident increases in magnitude, the less likely it is to occur compared to the more common, less long-term challenges. We are both preparing for the more likely scenarios first. But we do talk about the "Big One." If TSHTF, who are we going to have join us? Who’s on our team?

We have two other gentlemen that we are encouraging to start deepening their larder, consider alternative heating sources and get firearms and medical training. They would be at the top of the list for our team (along with their spouses and two children apiece) as we are all friends and share similar interests and faith. Progress isn’t what we would hope for with them in the preparedness department however. One of the benefits they bring, in addition to their unique skills, is that much of their extended family lives outside of the state or even a few states away, so there is little to be concerned with in the stragglers department. (BTW, I would love to see children being a part of the G.O.O.D. plan in one of the two upcoming "Patriots" sequels—their unique evacuation requirements and challenges were absent in the first novel, and rare is the eight year old that can cover your flank with an AR-15.) Their skill sets bring depth and breadth to our group and we hope they kick it into high gear shortly.

A bigger problem concerns my friend’s family. His immediate family (wife, son and daughter) are fully on board and are not a problem. His other two sons from a previous marriage (and his nutty ex-wife) will be more of a concern. His adolescent boys have had a few scrapes with the law and generally have a “me-first, no one else matters” attitude. Not people you want in your foxhole. Hopefully the seriousness of a TEOTWAWKI situation would scare them straight, but I don’t typically overlook serious character flaws—especially when it’s a matter of life and death. What does he do with them? Give them a GPS and tell them not to show up empty handed? What about my friend’s Dad and his girlfriend? They have plenty of greenbacks, but it is unlikely they are using those to make preparations or purchase useful supplies. It is likely both extended groups will not bring any goods with them—only more mouths to feed and little in the way of skills. My friend’s mother-in-law and her husband are another consideration—are we going to drag them along too? You can see the problem developing.

A bigger problem yet concerns my extended family. As I am an only child, I have a responsibility and duty to my parents. They taught me a bunch about finances (mostly what not to do) and so I will likely need to double my efforts to cover them. I am fine with that, as they sacrificed a lot for me in the past. My aunt, uncle and grandma all live in a major city a few hours away. I fear they would be gobbled up in the ensuing mess that comes with living in an urban setting during a disaster. I can see them trying to stick together, but they are all aged and my uncle’s 30 years police experience only becomes more useless with each passing year as he loses his abilities. As I am very close with all them, this one hurts. They are at least making some preparations, but they struggle with the status quo syndrome.

What about my wife’s family? We live near her parents, but all three of her siblings and their families live 20 minutes away in a mile radius with one another. I have tried to point them on the path of preparedness by asking probing questions during holiday meals and birthday celebrations. They seem uninterested. “Since things have always been this way, they will never change” is the feeling I get from them—status quo syndrome strikes again. They refuse to purchase even a shotgun because, “Everyone else in our county has one—we’ll be fine”. I have discussed this with my wife and the intuitive answer is for them to band together. Eight extra adults and as many children would destroy our food supply. They are on their own, although I would consider dropping off a few 5 gallon pails of food on the way out of town along with a spare firearm.

It’s pretty obvious that you can not keep inviting all kinds of friends and family to a retreat type of situation. The NFL San Francisco 49ers [professional football] team of the 1980s and early 1990s stands as a model franchise. One of the reason they were so good is because they were ruthless. They had no problem cutting or trading three of the best players to ever strap on cleats: Ronnie Lott, Jerry Rice, and the man who won four championships for them--Joe Montana. They knew when to make the tough cut and had no qualms about including only those that would make their team a winner, or discarding those who’s time had passed.

Knowing who to include and who to exclude, is critical to your team’s success. It is not an easy decision and not one you should consider lightly. Those you exclude could very well die off in a long term SHTF disaster—possibly in a very horrific manner. Those you include could make you wish you that had died off in a long term SHTF disaster if you don’t select carefully. Not including family and close friends may be akin to a death sentence. Are you going to be willing to make that tough cut? These are questions that are best answered now, rather than later. The best ounce of prevention in my mind is to gently encourage friends and family to make some preparations themselves. Use real life illustrations like [the earthquakes in] Haiti, Chile, and other current events which can occur here. It is evident that removing responsibility from people for their own well-being is a catastrophe. Take a look at our culture at large to verify this.

With any group in a long-term situation where you will be living with people you are not familiar with, you will need to set the rules pretty early. This applies to the kids, as well as the adults. We as a society have too much time on our hands—this explains all the stupidity that has been evident in our society in the last 40 years. In a post SHTF scenario, there will be no time for whining about fairness, complaining about life or any other idiocy. Survival is a full-time job with no vacation time or holidays. Children constantly fighting, women being catty or male bravado needs to be addressed immediately. Clear leadership is never more critical. If my friend’s ex wife gets out of line in that circumstance, I need to be the one that explains the situation to her and makes sure she knows it’s my way or the highway since I actually bothered to store food, fuel and ammunition. Similarly, if one of my extended family does the same, I will rely on my friend to take care of it. I don’t consider this passing the buck, but using relationships to solve the problem. Make this easy on yourself by forming your group now and regularly getting together for meals, training and just plain getting used to one another. As with any area of preparedness, it is best to find out now where the holes are in your plan rather than later when your life may depend on it. Ignoring the difficult decision doesn’t make them any easier. - G., Behind Enemy Lines in Illinois



Dear Editor:
Is using a laptop with wi-fi from the library etc any better (in terms of OPSEC) than having a home Internet connection? We disconnected from our satellite ISP from home a while ago and now only go online from assorted wi-fi connections when we get to town. But is this any safer? What else should I be doing to keep a lower profile? Thanks, - Jeff T.

#1 Son Replies: There are several ways that you can be identified over the Internet. First is though your IP address, and more significantly, through your Internet service provider (ISP). Information on every site you visit and every email you send is potentially recorded and available to an intrusive government.

The other major weakness is through your email and other online accounts. Gaining access to your email, FaceBook, Internet forum, Amazon, eBay, PayPal, bank, or AOL/Microsoft Instant Messenger (IM) account would provide a trove of information to any snoopers. Who you talk to, what you've said, bought, and what you've read. You must keep in mind that anything said over the Internet is potentially vulnerable to being intercepted, even many years after the fact.

Overall, achieving genuine privacy on the Internet is very difficult. If you don't use the Internet at home, then investigations might instead just be directed at your e-mail account. However, if you are under a severely restrictive, technically capable government, public Internet access could be a useful tool for circumventing censorship. But for real security doing this, you should buy a dedicated a laptop computer for this use. If you are in a really draconian situation, then buy a used laptop with cash. Do nothing that would identify that computer with you. Don't use it to log in to your e-mail account or use your home Internet connection. Use public Internet connections, and use it strictly anonymously. This computer will be what you use for visiting controversial web sites, political writing, or sensitive communication. Keep it completely separate from your family and public life, so what you say with it cannot lead back to you. Any access of the Internet through an ISP leaves an audit trail! Leave completely separate Internet fingerprints for your public and private lives! (Addenda: Ben in Tennessee wrote to remind me that computers have unique Media Access Control (MAC) addresses. These MAC addresses can be combined with the IP Address to link the traffic on a network such as the Internet to your network card and thus your computer.)

At the present time, this level of COMSEC applies only in a situation like that in Cuba or mainland China, where censorship is rampant, and there might be repercussions for speaking out against the government. Short of this, in situations where you don't have to be totally anonymous, follow common sense. Use strong passwords. Consider very carefully anything you type or do. Anything can come back to haunt you. Use pseudonyms and secondary e-mail addresses for anything controversial. (It takes just a couple of minutes to set up a Hotmail or gmail account. You can establish and then discard them after very brief use.) Don't use the same e-mail address that you give to friends and co-workers to register on preparedness or political forums.

Keep in mind that the lynchpin to your online identity is your e-mail account. Once someone gains access to your e-mail account(s), then they can gain access to most or even all of your various web accounts. Just think how many times that you've had to be reminded of your passwords via e-mail.



James,

The magazine Infoworld is a fairly trusted source in the information technology (IT) field. They recently posted an article titled, "Tech apocalypse: Five doomsday scenarios for IT".

Here is a quote:

"What could happen [from a wide scale EMP attack]: Workstations? Dead. Data centers? Gone. Cell phones might still work, but the cell towers probably won't, rendering them useless. Your car won't start. A large enough attack will also shut down automated controls at power substations, leaving everyone in the dark. Think pre-industrial revolution days. In our scenario the New York Stock Exchange shuts down, causing shock waves to reverberate throughout worldwide markets."

That is not bad for a mainstream IT magazine, though in this scenario they downplay the aftermath. in my opinion. However, they call it "higher than you might think" when talking about chances of this happening.

Their description of the effects of a massive coronal ejection (their last scenario) is pretty good, with a prediction of a recovery time of 4 to 10 years, if at all. - MP



Dear Mr. Rawles,

I thought I would drop you a note on my experiences in attempting to collect a significant volume of nickels. After seeing the Coinflation.com site and some of your articles and hearing about the changes being made by the US government in what materials are allowed to be used to make nickels, I decided to take your advice and start collecting. I decided to obtain $1,000 worth to start with, so I went to my local credit union and walked up to the teller and asked what their policy was on obtaining large volumes of coins. She said that they have to pay for shipping of coins and that they order coins twice per week. They also ship their bulk coins that they collect in the coin counter they provide for their members to a company that counts and rolls and sells the coins back. She described the coin service they use. So I asked if they had any coins that they were going to have to pay to ship to the coin processing company that I could buy at face value so they could save money on the processing fee. She was happy to sell me a $200 bag of nickels, unrolled and only counted by their coin counting machine. I accepted that, bought the nickels and took them home. 4,000 nickels in one bag is not lite but it looked worse than it was for carrying.

I thought this solution seemed easy enough so I started dropping in at the credit union once or twice per week. At first they said they didn't have any bags of nickels for me to buy and then after about two weeks they told me they weren't allowed to sell me bulk nickels anymore and that their manager told them it was not allowed. I found this to be a little annoying, after all I was trying to help them to save processing fees by buying the nickels in a $200 bag so they didn't have to pay the shipping for the nickels. I considered my options at this point. I wanted to find the least painful way to get this situation resolved so I thought I would call up the Vice President of the branches in the area and complain. I realized this was excessive and thought I would try calling up the manager of the branch first. Maybe he was a reasonable man. I was disappointed to hear him tell me they had recently had a meeting and established new rules for coin purchasing. The rules outlined that each non-commercial member was only allowed to purchase $20 to $30 worth at a time on a basis of once or twice per week. I explained that I only needed $800 worth and that if I buy $30 worth twice per week it would take me a little over one year to obtain my goal of $800 more worth of nickels. I then stated that this was really over burdensome. He countered that he anything more would cost them too much money. He asked when I would be bringing back the nickels and putting them through the counting machine in the lobby. Then he explained that they have been having problems with some of their members buying large volumes of nickels, sorting them and returning the bulk of all the low value coins while keeping all the coins that sell on eBay to collectors. I responded by promising not to bring back any nickels and that I simply wanted to store them. I would only bring them back if I became unemployed and foreclosed on my house and desperate to spend the money. He still resisted and told me that this was their policy and he had to follow the rules as they were given by the senior management of the Credit Union. I persisted and asked if he would please request an exception to the rules this one time so that I could obtain $800 worth of nickels and that I would be willing to pay a small fee to obtain them if needed. After waiting about a week he called me up and told me they were willing to grant my exception to the rules if I paid a one time $25 fee and promised not to bring them back and put them in his counting machine. I did some quick calculations and decided this was a reasonable solution and accepted. We setup a schedule and they have been calling me twice a week to pick either 1 $100 box or 2 $100 boxes for a total of $300 worth per week. I now have $600 worth of nickels in my safe and am on track to have my goal reached within a little over one week.

Thanks for all your help and advice and hard work on your blog. - Max



G.G. liked this piece at The Daily Beast: America's Debt Gets Scary

Greg C. suggested this blog article that has some serious implications: The Most Important Story that the MSM, Fox News, Glenn beck, and Others Will Not Cover.

Flavio sent this linkio: Retail Sales Fall.

Here is a real Economic Indicator: Box makers wait for signal of economic growth (Thanks to Mike A. in Ohio for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Stocks Fall on Worries Regarding Greek Debt Return

The Four Cities that Best Weathered the Recession (As if the "recession" were in the past?)

Germany and France Split Over Solution to Greek Debt Problem

When Credit Falls and Equities Rise, Stock Investors Beware



More than 20 SurvivalBlog readers forwarded the link to a New York Times article on potential cyber attacks on the US power grid: Academic Paper in China Sets Off Alarms in U.S. Meanwhile, we read: Electricity disruptions a growing threat. (Thanks to Brian B. for the latter link.)

   o o o

Observations from the mainstream media on societal decline and collapse: In the Soviet suburbs of Hell and the blasted avenues of Mogadishu, I saw what our society could become.

   o o o

Smoky the Bear Big Brother: US Forest Service admits putting surveillance cameras on public lands. (A hat tip to Chad S. for the link.)



"So this is how liberty dies: with thunderous applause." - Natalie Portman as Padmé Amidala, Star Wars: Episode III, Revenge of the Sith (Screenplay by George Lucas)


Sunday, March 21, 2010


Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



There are many different ways to go about preparing for tomorrow. One method that has really worked out well for me so far is kit building. Kits focus your attention on one specific area at a time, and bring into focus the strengths and weaknesses in your planning. There is something of a natural progression to it; you can start small and work up to bigger and better as you develop the means and know how.
This is intended as an overview of the concept; details for specific kit building can be found all all over the web.

EDC (Every Day Carry)
The Everyday Carry (EDC) is a "kit" that you keep on your person at all times. What it consists of is entirely up to you, and based on your personal needs. Universal items (Prep minded individuals or not) are personal identification, credit cards, cash, cell phone, keys, medications. More specialized items are knives and multi-tools, personal protection, keychain based tools, fire making devices, flash drives with important personal info. My EDC is split between my key chain and my wallet, is not cumbersome in the least and I am extremely happy with the system. For your EDC balance the things you would never, ever, want to be without, under any circumstances; with what is practical to carry. I just won't be one of those guys who carries a purse.

PSK (Personal Survival Kit)
The Personal Survival Kit (PSK) is meant to be a small supply of materials to help you survive a few days if stranded or separated from a safe place. It does not have to be expensive, large or all inclusive. This is an area to expand on your EDC and give yourself a fighting chance. The survival basics must be addressed here: Shelter, Fire, Water, Food Gathering, Identification, Navigation, Signaling for help. My kit fits into an old military surplus three-magazine ALICE Pouch, and probably cost around $40 to build. It goes with me on hunting, fishing, hiking and off road trips.

24-Hour Kit (GHB)
The Get Home Bag fills the gap between PSK and the fairly large 72-Hour Kit. A typical School sized backpack will fill the bill nicely. Include Food and Water, Clothing, a Blanket, a Tarp, Personal Hygiene products. It may be more or less than 24 hours; build yours around the maximum timeframe it may take you to get home from the farthest you usually travel from home. For most of us, this kit is probably best left in your vehicle, and need not be overly expensive. In fact, many items can be found or re-purposed for next to nothing.

Car Kit
The Car Kit may be the most overlooked, yet useful, assemblage of goods you can put together. Something as simple as a flat tire can leave you stranded literally anywhere. Items such as Jumper Cables, Fix-a-Flat, Air Compressor, Flashlight, Fire Extinguisher, Water/Coolant, Oil and tools can be stored in a toolbox or, as in my case, an old gym bag.

72-Hour Kit (Bug Out Bag)
"They" say three days is about how long a person can expect to wait for rescue, or help to arrive after a natural disaster. It would make sense to build a semi-comprehensive kit to last a person (or family) 72 hours. It would make even more sense for this kit to be portable, in case evacuation in called for. This is where the concept of a Bug Out Bag comes in. Whether you have a place to "bug out" to yet or not, a good sized backpack prepared to support you and your family for 3 days is a good idea. The size of this kit will allow you to include bigger and better items like sleeping bags, cookware, food and water. A weapon and ammo should be considered. One pack per family member is a good idea. Don't forget to pack comfort items like sweets and stuffed animals, especially if you have little ones! While any old backpack will do, military surplus Alice and MOLLE packs will probably hold up better and are very affordable.

First Aid Kits

Store bought First Aid Kits can be good, but are rarely comprehensive and never tailored to individuals. A good plan is to buy a large kit and then add to it with medications and other items where lacking. First Aid Kits should be in each vehicle and Pack/Kit you have, as well as the home.

Disaster/Earthquake Kit
We live in earthquake country, and so have an "Earthquake Kit". For us it's a plastic tub in a closet with food, water, radio, flashlights, blankets and clothes. It should be enough to last you a few weeks if supply routes are cut off, and you want to work up to a two month store as a benchmark.

Future Trade Goods
It might not be a bad idea to begin storing up what may be "Future Trade Goods". That may be .22 caliber and other common ammo, tobacco, alcohol, spices, seeds, bleach, canned goods. Things that are fairly cheap and easy to find, but could become very valuable when unavailable. Somehow, I don't think the average man is going to be all that interested in a sack of old Nickels, he wants something he can use.

These are just a few examples of some of the kits commonly assembled. You can create sub-kits for more specific tasks such as Water Purification, Food Gathering or Self Defense, it's the concept and practicality that I like. It helps you look at your preps in detail and iron out the problems. You get to know each and every component and how to use each of them. The end product is a good modular system you can build on and modify as needed, and the peace of mind that you are making progress and prepared for whatever may come your way tomorrow.



Dear JWR:
I hope that you are well. I thought that the following news report may be of interest to your blog. Not to get too "tinfoil-hat" here, but many of your readers may not appreciate the vulnerabilities their vehicles' computers expose them to. See: Hacker Disables More Than 100 Cars Remotely. The article begins:

"More than 100 drivers in Austin, Texas found their cars disabled or the horns honking out of control, after an intruder ran amok in a web-based vehicle-immobilization system normally used to get the attention of consumers delinquent in their auto payments."

In this case the compromised system was an after-market product, but in a recent OnStar commercial GM actually brags about being able to remotely shut down a running vehicle [with their "Stolen Vehicle Slowdown" feature on "select 2009 and later models".]

Increasingly new vehicles are being equipped with these systems (e.g. GM's OnStar and Ford's Sync) as they are built. These systems are capable of providing location using GPS, two-way communication via the audio system (possible covert monitoring as well?), are capable of arming or disarming security system, locking and unlocking of doors, and even starting and shutting down the engine. Is that really a good idea? - L.S.C.



Hi Jim,

I am constantly making efforts to prepare for an uncertain future and I thought I was practicing good OPSEC. I do not discuss my efforts except with fellow preppers and my wife, I do not have anything outside my house that says “prepared”, and I generally stay low profile.

One of my friends just decided to make a purchase of 50 food grade buckets with me so we could share the shipping charges. I was shocked when one of my neighbors just called me to say, “Scott: What the heck are you preparing for?”

I raced home to discover five large boxes sitting in front of my house with “Emergency Essentials, Helping People Prepare” printed on every side on the boxes in a font that makes the words run from one end to the other. This is anything but low profile. Please pass this knowledge on to others on your blog. Let my mistake be a lesson to others. When ordering from unknown vendors, specify the packaging must be plain with no markings. This slip up on my part may have put my family at risk in the future. Having a box at your front door that says “DELL” is one thing, having a box that says “I am preparing with lots of food inside” is completely different! Best Regards, - Scott in California

JWR Replies: Most preparedness products vendors are happy to either use unmarked boxes, or assemble their logo boxes inside out. Be sure to ask for the "plain brown envelope" treatment.



Veteran analyst Jim Rogers talks about the world’s financial woe: Another recession ahead. It was nice of him to use the more kind term for it.

From Chad S.: Food prices push Indian inflation up to 9.9 percent

Also from Chad: China's Wen pushes back against yuan rise calls. This quote from the article doesn't bode well: "We are very concerned about the lack of stability in the U.S. dollar. If I said I was worried last year, I must say I am still worried this year."

G.G. liked this commentary from Richard Daughty (aka The Mogambo Guru): US Economic Outlook: Default, Hyperinflation or Both

Items from The Economatrix:

Pain in the Tank: Gas Prices Highest Since 2008

"Wall Street" Sequel an Omen of US Collapse

To Fill Budget Gaps, "Stealth" Taxes are Creeping Up

Debt Doom (The Mogambo Guru)

Strategic Defaults are Soaring in California, and Now they Might Really Explode



Rufus sent us this: San Diego Searches For Ways To Deal With Hoarders. No, not the sort of" hoarders" we usually think of, but just leave it to the vagaries of government to someday soon misapply such laws to to people that prudently build up larders.

   o o o

Rourke sent us this YouTube music clip: Meet You At Menards - Original Apocalyptic Ukulele Song. Rourke described it as "So cheesy that it's actually funny."

   o o o

Rebellion in America heats up as fifth state exempts guns. We also read in The New York Times: States’ Rights Is Rallying Cry for Lawmakers. (A hat tip to Brian B. for the links.)

   o o o

News from Idaho and South Carolina: Idaho's plan to downgrade the dollar.



"And, behold, I [am] with thee, and will keep thee in all [places] whither thou goest, and will bring thee again into this land; for I will not leave thee, until I have done [that] which I have spoken to thee of." - Genesis 28:15 (KJV)


Saturday, March 20, 2010



Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Most of us who spend any time at all thinking about “Survival” or “Preparedness” have probably spent some of that time considering the subject of Self Defense. If you’ve spent enough time thinking about it, you’ve probably spent more than time on the subject. Like many of your survival-minded brothers and sisters, you’ve likely spent some of your hard earned dollars on a weapon or two. Perhaps you have a small arsenal at home. Owning a weapon may save your life but not if it’s not with you when you need it or if you’re not prepared to use it.

As a law enforcement officer in a fairly large Midwest town, I’ve seen both the very prepared and the completely unprepared come out on both the winning and losing ends of violent encounters. I’ve seen a man beaten half to death by an unarmed intruder in his living room when he had a baseball bat sitting in the corner behind the door. It wasn’t a thought in his mind. I’ve seen the smelly result of a wood-be attacker picking the wrong apartment to break into and finding a young lady in the bathroom with a disposable cigarette lighter and a can of hair spray. She didn’t just have them; she knew how to use them.

In a violent encounter, having the right tools won’t do you a bit of good if you don’t know how to use them. If you have the correct mindset, even the wrong tools will often make do.

A cop carries a gun on his hip at work every day. Most people who work outdoors or in warehouses carry knives or box cutters. You’re average office worker or department store clerk doesn’t carry a gun or a knife. Many people don’t carry guns or knives. In uniform I may have two or three of each at any time. For those of you who typically don’t carry anything that is traditionally thought of as a weapon, it may be a consideration that you wish to make. If you choose to walk around unarmed, that’s okay, as long as you’re prepared to protect yourself.

Violence can strike at any moment. In my town, there was a somewhat recent incident where a mother took her two teenage daughters to tan at a tanning salon. While they were tanning inside, she and her infant and her toddler were waiting in the family van outside. While waiting outside, a man approached the van and physically made his way into the van. He left the mother and took her children. Due to some sensitive subject matter, I won’t discuss the incident further, except to say that if the mother had been armed or at least considered the weapons at her disposal, the story may have had a much happier ending. What is the most powerful personally operated weapon most of us have at our disposal and that this mother had that day?

What has four tires, weighs 2,000+ pounds and can be easily aimed at an attacker? If you haven’t figured it out yet, it’s your vehicle. Not only can a vehicle act as a shield or a shelter, it can make a fine impact weapon. Find yourself in a riot and you know that stopping means you’re not making it out alive or at best seriously injured? I understand that there are legal ramifications to doing what I am about to express but we’re talking about living and dying here. If it comes to me getting my family home safely or letting someone have their way with my wife and daughter while I’m lying unconscious in my own blood, I’m going to apply enough gas to keep moving quickly, tell my family to get as low as possible and I’m moving forward. Should rioters or attackers choose to stay in my path, they will have made the wrong choice.

Survival is about choosing to survive and carrying out whatever actions are necessary to complete the task. I once had an instructor who would say “Be polite and professional and have a plan to kill everyone you meet.” Does that sound harsh? Absolutely it does but to some degree, this is the way that people must live if they wish to continue to stay on the top side of the grass. Many violent crimes begin with some thug putting a smile on his face and asking for directions or some unsuspecting parent answering a knock at the door. Bad things don’t just happen when you accidentally drive through the rough neighborhood or when you’re walking to your car after work one night. They happen when you least expect them. You’re sitting in church and some lunatic walks through the door with a 12 gauge and starts mowing down the flock. You’re standing in line at the local convenience store and suddenly you realize the guy in front of you is putting on a ski mask or has just pulled a revolver from his pocket.

Mental preparation is important to survival. You have to have an acute awareness of your surroundings. You have to pay attention to the people around you at all times. You absolutely must have your eyes open to what is going on around you. I cannot count the number of times I’ve worked a robbery that took place in a public place with several witnesses who should be able to give an accurate description of the suspect and then find out that half of them didn’t even realize the store was being robbed until after the robber was gone. Instead of walking around like a sheep with your head down, grazing, you’ve got to keep your head up and your eyes moving. Be the sheep dog, not the sheep. You need to notice when the guy walks into the gas station with his hood and sunglasses on. You must see the guy approaching you in the parking lot after work. You can’t be talking to the other soccer moms when that weirdo is approaching your child on the other side of the playground. You have got to have situational awareness. There are times when you can’t prevent a situation from unfolding but if you are aware, you can at the very least try to protect yourself or your loved ones. The only appropriate action may be to run or hide or dial 9-1-1 on your cell phone. You may find it appropriate to draw your .40 S&W from your purse and create a cloud of pink mist where some bad guy’s head used to be.

Go back to the office worker. We’ll use Jane as an example. Jane works in a call center as a customer service representative. She has never fired a gun. The only knives she owns are for use in the kitchen and they don’t leave the kitchen. She spends 40+ hours per week sitting in a cubicle talking on the phone. One night Jane is stuck at work late on a long call. She gets off the phone finally, finding that she’s the only person left in the office except the creepy manager that always sniffs her hair when he walks by. Jane is grabbing her purse and keys when she sees him come around the corner and he has a slightly creepier look than normal. She suddenly feels very frightened. What does Jane have to defend herself with? Yes, pens and pencils make pretty good stabbing weapons if you’re strong enough to use them. I suppose you could try to strangle someone with your mouse cable. No, I don’t think the stress ball would do much to slow down a wood-be attacker. How about a stapler? The common desk stapler will open up and double in length in order to be refilled. Most people never look at their stapler as an impact weapon but the one on my desk weighs almost two pounds, is made mostly of steel and swung at someone’s head could do some serious damage, if not dispatch them permanently. Those scissors that she usually only uses to make paper dolls when calls are slow, they are an edged weapon and when jabbed into someone’s eye are pretty effective. Suppose creepy manager guy is a rapist and he’s been waiting for this opportunity to get Jane alone. Jane needs to be aware of the possible weapons at hand. Jane needs to be aware of the exits in the building. Jane needs to know where the fire-alarms are (fire alarms are just as good as calling 9-1-1, they bring firemen and firemen bring big muscles and axes, firemen can be just as effective as cops).

As far as having “a plan to kill everyone you meet.” I think the point is being ready for whatever may happen and being ready for whoever may bring it to you. There are people in the world with nothing but evil in their hearts. Those of us who are willing to not be sheep must be willing to stand up to these wolves and must be ready to do so at a moment’s notice. As far as dealing with the District Attorney or cops after you’ve beaten a burglar’s brain out with the toilet seat, there is an old saying; “I’d rather be judged by twelve than carried by six.” Living is priority number one. I’ll worry about the details later.

Now, if all of this sounds a bit too extreme for you, you probably haven’t ever had a gun pointed at you or had someone trying to take your head off with their bare hands. I have and I’ve talked to many people who have. I’ve seen what happens when people are unprepared physically or emotionally for violence. Violence is often unprovoked. Bad guys are like wolves. They take the weak sheep from the heard. The ones who aren’t paying attention when they sneak up, the ones who are still eating after the others have already run off, those are their prey. If you are the sheep dog, you smell the wolf before he ever gets close and he doesn’t approach you because of your strong, confident demeanor. If he is foolish enough to approach you, he gets the business end of a stapler stuck in his skull. Be aware and be safe.



Mr. Rawles,
I read Joe M.’s article with great interest. The contributors to your site always seem to have creative ideas. I have often thought of ways to conceal a passageway, escape route or just a safe / storage room.

Here are four links to companies that offer hidden doors or panels.

Thanks again for all you do. - John G.

James,
Two very good books contain a wealth of hints on constructing and concealing hidden compartments and entrances, covering evidence of work you want to keep concealed, and devising ways to guard against tampering:

The Great Escape, by Paul Brickhill (the book, not the movie [which is much more inspirational rather that instructive.])

Escape from Colditz, by P. R. Reid

Additionally, they're great true stories of defiance, resistance, and survival. - PJJ

 

Sir:
Referring to the article where the writer suggested magnetic locks. Most people do not know of Assa Abloy [of Finland]. I'm not even sure their product is available in the U.S. [Many of] their padlocks are just about un-pickable.

Main Products Page

Padlocks Page

Padlocks Brochure PDF

Regards, - Kevin S.



SurvivalBlog's Editor At Large Michael Z. Williamson sent us a link to an interesting graph on debt figures in the U.S.. Per capita debt almost $41,000 per person, and rising about $20 per day.

Chad S. recommended this: How Can Anyone Claim that the Housing Crisis is Over When the Delinquency Rate on U.S. Mortgages Continues to Explode at an Exponential Rate?

The latest Friday Follies installment: Regulators shut 7 banks in 5 states; 37 in 2010

Tod P. flagged an article from the Philippines, wherein the government pleads with its citizenry to spend their coins back into circulation, to co-mingle with the new debased steel slugs. JWR's Comment: People aren't that naive. I think that they'll wisely keep their real coins at home. This is a foretaste of things to come here in the States, once inflation kicks in.

Items from The Economatrix:

Will Your State Ban Employer Credit Checks?

Wachovia Settles Money Laundering Case for $160 Million

Economic Mixed Bag: No Inflation But Little Hiring

FedEx Sees Economic Recovery Spreading



There is "suspicion of wolves' involvement in Ms. Berner's death." (Suspicion? I guess those enormous red paw prints the snow might have been a clue.)

   o o o

Man Spends Four Days Stuck in Car in Snowbank. (A Cadillac would not be my first choice for an off-pavement vehicle.)

   o o o

Thanks to Kevin S. for sending this link: Psychopaths' Brains Wired to Seek Rewards, No Matter the Consequences. (Thankfully, only 1% of the population is psychopathic, and perhaps 4% is sociopathic. But taken together, that is around 15 million people in the United States. Got ammo?)

   o o o

Check out the free information available through The American Prepper's Network and Pioneer Living.

 



"It is, in fact, nothing short of a miracle that the modern methods of instruction have not entirely strangled the curiosity of inquiry." - Albert Einstein


Friday, March 19, 2010



Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Mr. Rawles:

I am writing a brief letter with a few points that may be helpful for your readers, who like myself, find your blog site a valuable resource, one well worth supporting financially. The value of your blog, and advice, is multiplied many times over by the extremely well informed readership you have. There are a few thoughts I could offer that others may find of use:

1. I lived through an ice storm that hit in the late nineties. As many have mentioned, when a calamity hits is not the time to start preparing. I was caught totally unprepared, and living out in the country without heat, ended up driving to my brother's house, where there was a wood stove. On the way, I saw an Amish man, simply going about his chores, without a worry. Right then, I resolved not to let this happen to me again.

Incidentally, the Amish in our area sell 50-lb bags of potatoes in the fall for $10 a bag. These are Kennebec winter storage potatoes. I've taken to buying a couple bags and storing them not for eating, but planting in the spring given an emergency. Cheap insurance.

2. Within 24 hours, every store in the country had been cleaned out of bread, milk, and size D or AA batteries. I saw some people merrily loading up their shopping carts with beer. (I am not kidding.) However, if you've got your long-term storage items taken care, what crowds did not bother with were things that would be of great value such as cooking oil, bisquick, flour, powdered milk etc. These things are hard to store enough of, because the shelf life is shorter, so in a calamity, I would try stocking up on these items. They may be overlooked in the initial rush.

3. Concerning the use of barrier plants to discourage looters, the unduly curious etc. I would consider species roses, such as briar and rugosa roses. A rose known as the Scotch Double White is very hardy, grows to about six feet and is as bad as razor wire to get through. Planted in a zigzag pattern with about six foot spacing, in four to five years it would be near impenetrable. Harison's Yellow (one "r") is another briar rose about seven feet tall that would also do the job. Avoid anything called a "living fence" or "multiflora" unless you want a useless mess.

Also extremely useful are rugosa roses. Go for the simple species rugosa. These are hardy and have the particular value of rose hips with one of the highest naturally occurring sources of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C). The hips are the size of a small walnut, bright red. Let them stay on the plant until after the first hard frost which will turn them orange. Pick and dry. A country lady near me made them into a nice jelly. The leathery covering of the hip is good in stews also. The leathery covering can simply be eaten as a vitamin source.

3. You have received some really good postings from readers on medicines and antibiotics. I was vexed because my own doctor is not interested in providing me with scrips for emergency meds and it's hard to find another doctor in rural areas. So, after much searching, I can suggest two alternatives. One is to google "fish antibiotics"and "fish cipro." Another is to consider off shore pharmacies which will supply meds, as long as they are not controlled substances, without a script. I have built up a good store of cipro, cephalexin, augmentin, etc., plus three meds for chronic conditions (my wife and I are in our sixties).

I have no intention of using these meds unless I have absolutely no choice. I can complain about the government all I want. I still want my pills FDA approved. Call me a hypocrite.

4. I have had a really good experience with Walton Feeds. They shipped items across the country and all arrived in good shape. Not the case without another vendor.

5. I live in the Northeast, and one of the values of your advice is that I've started thinking hard about my situation in various stages of a societal collapse. I live in the country, on a former farm, with lots of nearby water, and excellent neighbors who are handy with shotguns and deer rifles. There however is a nearby city with more than a few lowlifes, and a nearby prison. So....fun for a while. Winter on the Canadian border however has a way of trimming out the unprepared.

6. Another value of your web site is forcing a person to confront the state of one's preparations. I've been collecting emergency stuff for a decade without any overall plan. A recent power outage, and I couldn't even find my box of candles. Enough said. Now I'm organizing, and putting a list of what I have in a steno book, with each item's location.

Thank you for your blog and your books. - Northeast Fellow

JWR Replies: Thanks for your observations and suggestions. As for human use of veterinary meds, all the "use only in dire emergency" provisos that have been repeatedly posted in SurvivalBlog apply! I've heard from several readers that a good source for veterinary antibiotics is Jeffer's. I've also heard from other readers that allivet.com, revivalanimal.com and vetamerica.com provided good service. (The latter sells cipro.) Some readers have also reported using online pharmacies located in India and Mexico without a hitch, including inhousepharmacy.com and medsmex.com. (But one must wonder about both the authenticity of the drugs--are they the genuine USP item?--not to mention the security of credit card numbers!)



Jim,
Thanks for the great blog. I have purchased several items from your sponsors and appreciate your screening them for us.

I live in suburban Detroit and am looking to find a small farm. Values are still declining here. Until I can make a move, I'm stuck living in suburbia. Currently I own a cheap gas generator and am looking to upgrade. Should I go with a diesel or tri-fuel generator? Can you suggest some sources? God Bless, - Bob P.

JWR Replies: That all depends on how many hours you intend to run the genset. Because they run at lower RPM, a diesel is preferable for a genset that will get "high hours."

Another factor is the local ordinances on fuel storage. If you cannot legally have a 2,000 gallon diesel tank, but you can have a 2,000 gallon propane tank, then your choice is clear. If ordinances are very restrictive fuel tanks, then you might consider a "plumbed-in" genset, running on utility-piped natural gas. (The best solution, of course is to move somewhere out in the country, where there are no fuel storage restrictions. But I recognize that family and work obligations might preclude such a move.)

Do comparison pricing via the Internet. Generator sales is a very competitive market, especially in the current recession. And, since shipping costs are substantial, it often pays to find a vendor that is fairly close by.



Hi James,
I'm almost through your book "How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It" for the second time and was wondering if you could recommend some 5-6 gallon stainless steel food storage containers for long term storage? I like the idea of food safe, oxygen-impermeable, and vermin-proof containers. Looking around on the web I found a pharmaceutical supply firm that sells nice ones for well above $1000 each. Also a few wine barrel vendors that were out of my price range.
Thanks, - Curtis

JWR Replies: One of my consulting clients in a locale where they have "rats the size of cats", had problems with his HDPE plastic buckets of rice and wheat getting chewed through. His solution: He bought used stainless steel beer kegs--the type with one large bung hole (I presume for the "tap".) Shop around!



Hello Mr Rawles
About a month ago, I read your book "How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It", followed a week later by "Patriots". I quickly realized how unprepared I was for even possible but probable emergencies. I started to ask question of coworkers of what they would do in an emergency. One co-worker was a former motorcycle club (gang) member. He told me that he would get with some of the club members in the area. This could be as many as 50 to 60 members. They would have plenty of "bullets" and plan on taking the "beans" from everybody else. This very much reminded me of the scenes in "Patriots" [where the outlaw motorcycle club took over a small town in Idaho.]

The tactics would be to take over a small town and go from house to house taking what they wanted. If you resist, they would burn you out of your house. Of course they would shoot everyone else. Once they finished in one town they would move on to the next.

I have been working with this individual for over three years. I have no reason to doubt what he said. From other things he told me they would be better armed than most police departments. This would include things like Kevlar body armor, long range rifles and handguns. All of these items are cached, so that if the police did visit (search) a home or club, then the illegal Items are not in their possession. But within an hour they would be fully armed and ready to go.

When he SHTF, and society starts to collapse, [outlaw] motorcycle clubs (gangs) are poised to take action. The things that they'd do, they would have no remorse about doing them. - TAC in Illinois

JWR Replies: I'd only temper those comments with the proviso that it is only true outlaw motorcycle gangs--the ones that call themselves "One Percenters" that have such plans. But even that small minority is still a huge threat to face.





S.C.W. sent a link to an update on the Ugandan Wheat Rust: Red Menace: Stop the Ug99 Fungus Before Its Spores Bring Starvation. [JWR Adds: Given the fact that the same ship cargo holds are use to transport used for seed as well as wheat used for food, it is nigh-on impossible to stop the spread of Ug-99.]

   o o o

Quoting the MI5 maxim, Britain is ‘four meals away from anarchy’

   o o o

Brian B. suggested this troubling article: Pre-Crime Policing. If buying a number of guns or a large quantity of ammo in a short period of time is now a red flag, then I'd better stop going to gun shows. ;-)

   o o o

Regular content contributor Chad S. mentioned some more ludicrous news from the U.K. Nanny State: £1,000 fine for using wrong bin: Families face new crackdown over household waste

   o o o

B. sent us this: A million library books to be sent down the mines



"Take sides! Always take sides! You will sometimes be wrong-but the man who refuses to take sides must always be wrong! Heaven save us from
poltroons who fear to make a choice. Let us stand up and be counted." - John Joseph Bonforte, a character in Robert A. Heinlein's novel "Double Star"


Thursday, March 18, 2010


Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Unless you’re lucky enough to actually live at your retreat in case of a TEOTWAWKI event, you are probably a little concerned with theft at your home away from home. Even if your primary home is your retreat, in the event of a break-in is your cache of “goodies” safe? Sure you might keep your supply of rifles, handguns, and shotguns locked in a gun vault the size of Grandma Shirley’s casket, but if thieves are given enough time they will haul the vault and anything else they find off into the night, leaving you empty handed and even worse, unprepared.

Vandals or thieves can do considerable amount of monetary damage and preparedness damage to your haven in very little time. Food items would probably just be destroyed by vandals and guns would be gone and sold probably before the police finished their reports. The likelihood of ever getting all of your supplies back and in useful condition is extremely slim.

For these reasons, when I built my retreat cabin I built in a number of “insurance” features that lessened the chance of a total loss. My retreat, chosen for its remote location is a prime example of the need to introduce safety features into your preparedness plan. The location of my retreat while remote, does not mean an occasionally person might not wander by. If this person decides to fire up a chainsaw and cut my metal front door right out of the framing, it is doubtful anyone would hear or notice for months. Like I said it is remote, but not a desert island.

So to give myself a bit of insurance against vandals/thieves, when I built the cabin I made one entire wall a “fake” wall. If you measured the width of my retreat on the exterior you would note that it is 16’ wide. However, an interior measure would yield around 14’ wide. The missing two feet is my insurance. Actual useable space is less than two feet. You must subtract the width of the actual exterior wall (about 4 inches) and the width of the fake interior wall (about 3 inches). Then you are left with 17 inches of great storage space. Be careful not to go overboard when allocating storage space. If your retreat cabin is 20 feet wide on the outside but only 15 feet wide on the inside, somebody will start wondering why.

I installed shelves in my storage space, just the metal rack types that restaurants use. They are extremely adjustable, durable, and can hold a lot of weight. I found some that were 16 inches wide, which meant they fit perfectly into my hiding place. Since the shelves are adjustable in two inch height increments, it was extremely easy to adjust them to fit my particular gear needs.

But enough about shelving let’s look at the actual construction of the wall. If you use Google, Bing, or Yahoo with the search phrase “hidden wall safe” you will find a lot of links to various types of construction methods. So I would suggest you do some research before you remodel or construct your hidey hole. Since I was constructing my retreat adding the false wall was an easy task as I could plan for window and door placement to account for the hidden wall. If you remodel your retreat to install a hidden wall make sure it makes the room look natural. For example if you add a wall and now the wall is two inches away from a window, it might look odd and cause someone to examine it closer (which is bad!). But by using new construction I was able to “center” my windows on their wall between the front wall and the fake wall, thus creating a very natural and normal look.

For my construction I chose to make my fake wall look like a normal wall, and to further conceal it we would place various items of furniture against the wall. Doing some research I noted that a few people chose to cover their wall entirely by using book cases in front of the fake wall. This really helped hide the wall completely and at the same time gave you more storage area for your “bait” items (more on that in a minute). You might be thinking that if you completely cover your wall with bookcases and then fill the bookcases with books or other supplies that this would be a huge impediment in getting to the supplies behind the hidden wall. You would be correct. However, I am more concerned with the preserving my supplies during, for lack of a better word, “normal” times and during my trip to my retreat during TEOTWAWKI times. Once I establish myself at my retreat you can rearrange furniture to make the hidden wall more accessible. A word of warning though, be careful of making it too accessible. In case of an attack my raiders or whatever, you don’t want them to walk in and find the hidden wall wide open with all your goods shining in all their readiness glory.

So keep the wall closed and concealed at all times unless you are removing or adding items to your storage. Don’t treat the storage as a daily access area. Pull a few days worth of supplies out at a time and then conceal the wall with your furniture. The wall is not meant to be something you should open in the event of an emergency. If you hear an unknown person outside of your retreat and you feel you need a weapon handy, that is not the time to open the wall and obtain a self-defense weapon. Those items should be much handier (in TEOTWAWKI times I would suggest a holster.)

Construction for the wall is rather easy. I am not a carpenter, but I managed to build a nice looking concealed wall with basic carpentry skills. In a nut shell, I simply framed an interior wall using standard 2x4 framing (16 inches on center). I ensured the base plate was firmly attached to the floor joists using lag screws instead of typical nailing. I did the same on the cap plate (top of the wall), securing the top of the wall to the ceiling joists again with lag screws. This gave my wall some extra stability. You don’t really want a bad guy to lean on your wall and feel it “give.”

I have paneled the interior of my retreat with a rough looking wood panel, often called a v-groove plank panel. This comes in 4x8 foot sheets (just like plywood). In fact if the material you wish to use is thin you can mount it to a panel of plywood using construction grade adhesive.

I framed the back side of my wood panel to give it stability and a place for the hardware. Basically this means I screwed 2x2 strips along the perimeter of the panel and horizontally every 16 inches. Then using a piano hinge I screwed the hinge to the 2x4 wall stud and to the 2x2 strip on the wood panel. This gives me a door. I built 3 of these doors and installed them side by side so I have a 12 foot-wide wall made up of three hidden doors.

There are various types of closure devices out there that you “push” to close and then “push” to open. I first used these and then realized that if someone were to lean on the wall the wall would “click and open a fraction. That was not good! So I settled on an extremely simple solution, screws. I screw my wall shut, every time. I use the same screw holes every time I close the door and I am careful not to over tighten the screws. Furthermore I replace the screws I use to secure the door when the head of the screw starts getting noticeably worn.

To conceal the seams I “finished” the cabin with vertical pieces of 1x2 strips of wood. These go at two foot intervals all around the cabin. Conveniently this covers the seams on my hidden wall. You screw this strip onto one side of the door, centering the strip over the edge of the door then when the door is closed it covers the seam and a portion of the wall next to it. Probably a design flaw on my part but when construction was finished and since I had put three of these doors side by side, I discovered the strip of wood covering the seam prevented me from opening the doors in any order I chose. Since the wood strip was attached to the left edge of the first door it covered the seam of the right edge of the next door. Therefore I could not open the second door without damaging the wood strip. So I must open the far right door first, then the middle and finally the far right door. Not a big problem, just a mild inconvenience. I arranged the gear inside the hidden wall so that the items I am most likely to need are behind the first door. If I had it to do over again I would leave some empty wall between the doors so that I could open the doors independently.

If your door is a bit heavier then you expected and sags some, you could put a support wheel on the opening side. Just be careful that the wheel doesn’t leave a track on your floor. As far as closing and locking your hidden door, look into magnetic locks, or other forms of closure such as screwing etc. Just be sure that the locking and closing mechanisms are hidden and won’t pop open at the wrong time. If some kids rough housing cause your door to come open, change the locking mechanism.

Now some personal notes on use of your hidden stash. Just like any other important secret, don’t talk about your hidden stash with anyone you don’t entrust your life and your loved ones lives too. Your drinking buddy at the lodge might seem like a good friend now but when TSHTF he might run up to the first place he knows that is fully stocked and ready to go. My wife and kids know about my hidden area and they are  all, period.

I had mentioned having some “bait” items out. I built a second concealed area, not nearly as big and not nearly as well concealed. My thought process being is that if I pull a few days’ supply out of the main area, I transfer it to this secondary area. Then if someone catches us off guard and demands supplies we can open this secondary area and give it to them, all the while begging and pleading that this is all we have left and please don’t take are last few days of supplies. It might work, or it might not. I just want to have the option. So I have the “bait” goods ready to go. If the bad guys take the bait and leave, then we have only lost a few days’ supply and not the mother lode.

Next I would build some other hidden areas to house your quick access items. This can be the picture frame on a hinge that hides a hole in a wall (not your fake wall). In the hole can be a firearm or other quick access item you deem necessary. I am not suggesting you have your entire arsenal in quick access hidey holes. But a portion of your weapons need to be quick access. Your other weapons that are only used at certain times, like hunting should be hidden behind your fake wall. Again if someone “bad” comes to visit they will most likely take your guns and ammo. Don’t leave it all just lying around, but then again don’t leave it all put away where you can’t get it when you need it.

You can get very creative with your hidden areas. If your retreat does not have a concrete floor it is very easy to cut a hole between the floor joists, attach a hinge and you have another hiding spot. You can do the same thing in the ceiling, just cut between the ceiling joists. Seam concealment, hinge, and closing mechanisms are the big challenges. Before you breakout your saws and start cutting holes, plan on how you will hide your hinge, seam, and closing device. Usually this is done with some form of furring strip. But if your seams are a “natural” part of the wall, floor, or ceiling you may not need to conceal them. Clearly you can’t leave a big hinge out in the open. Piano hinges can be mounted on the inside, they come in various lengths and you can always use more than one to run the full length of your hinge.

Remember that you don’t have to make all of your hiding areas completely invisible. If your hiding area is for daily use items hidden in the floor, then perhaps you can get by with just a throw rug covering the seams. However, if it is for the mother lode, then invisibility is required. Get creative and go hide. - Joe M.



James

The pastor/programmer is somewhat correct about SCADA and Programmable Logic Controllers (PLCs), and his resistance of Windows based and “soft logic” is admirable. However, many SCADA systems installed out there recently have been implemented just as their name implies “SUPERVISORY CONTROL and Data Acquisition” in order to save labor costs by minimizing operator and maintenance training requirements on multiple different in- plant control systems. Most major power, refining, waste treatment systems etc. in recent years have utilized a DCS (distributed control system) as a SCADA base for overall and/or supervisory control often also monitoring or commanding smaller PLC systems operating auxiliary systems ( compressors, large blowers etc.). And although “manual back-up” is often available on “critical” functions it typically is limited to safety shut down and control transfers, not operation maintainability. Almost all major control systems built in the past 30 years are DDC (direct digital control) DCS, PLC, electric analog, or some type of microprocessor based controls. Even if the controls are old pneumatic analog they rely on compressed air controlled by a PLC. This basically makes almost all major plant control systems out there vulnerable to EMP effects. And although some of the hardware utilized may have been specified with EMI (electro magnetic interference) and RFI (radio frequency interference), this typically will only help with 5 watt communication radios and 220 or 440 power interferences. Certainly nothing as devastating as a large nuclear EMP blast as described in the novel "One Second After" or even a large solar flare.

I’d suggest the pastor, and many others, read the 2008 Report of the Commission to Assess the Threat to the United States from Electromagnetic Pulse (EMP) Attack. It speaks in great lengths of the susceptibility to damage of various types of plant control systems in a wealth of industrial applications.

Hopefully none of this will ever become a problem, but the pastor is wise to follow your advice to prepare. “Plan for the worst, hope for the best” - G.S. (A Senior Control Systems Engineer with 40 years of experience in SCADA)



James:
I read this article and I must say that I have a few disagreements with it. I grew up in Washington County, Colorado.

Yes, it's a wide open space with some farming, lots of ranching and a general self-reliant attitude, but there is a definite downside.

1) Weather - the weather in this area is turbulent to say the least. Expect occasional white-outs and definite bone chilling wind all the long winter. Summers are either dry enough to scorch crops or rain, hail or tornado's flood do their thing. In all the years our family has farmed in the area, my Dad said that he personally has only experienced two seasons of "optimal" growing conditions (without excessive dead loss). This may not sound to bad, but my family has been in the area since the late 1800s, so we know a thing or two about the area over the course of time. -including surviving the dust bowl years. Summer days can top 100 Fahrenheit, but it's so dry that newcomers will pass out from heat exhaustion before they realize that their hot. I myself saw it every year of my childhood at Eastern Colorado Round-up.

2) Economy - the economy of the area has been on a decline since the 1950s. The area is not springing back to life any time soon. The last time I was home, it had been 10 years since I'd been there and I was shocked at how much things had changed during 10 "booming everywhere else" years. Fewer small businesses, fewer people, less optimism than there had been when I left. Most of the smaller towns in this area could now technically be considered ghost-towns, because the population of the cemetery out numbers the living in the area.

3) Water - it's few and far between. wells are necessary and they better be deep. if the SHTF, you're going to be digging for a long time to find more water. The best crops will be dry crops that will adapt to dry, sandy soil once the irrigation pumps stop running. A large amount of the land is only really suitable for ranching anyway. The rocky, sandy soil will sustain enough natural plant life for cattle, provided that you have access to a lot of water. How many gallons of water does a cow drink a day?

There is a definite beauty to the area. It is dry and desolate, with bluffs rolling hills. But having the family knowledge I have, it would not be my choice for a safe castle. I have my area picked out and it's actually in SE Nebraska. I own a large acreage with two wells, several ages of windbreak tree growth on three sides, a creek, backed up to a little known Rural Water District (RWD) watershed. I got it cheap because it's "unfarmable" to the bigger farms in the area and has limited access - just the way I like it. But mostly it's this, unlike Colorado, the Federal Government doesn't own diddily squat of the Nebraska. (Unlike the, what? 40% of Colorado?) When the SHTF, my family from NE Colorado, plan on coming to SE Nebraska - that should say a lot. - Buggin' out in Nebraska!






Reader Mark P. sent this: Busy bees, but hives are besieged, diseased; Scientists struggle to find cause — and fix — for colony collapse disorder. One particularly troubling quote: "We are close to the margin" of a viable ratio of pollinators to crops, he said. "It's amazing to me how close we are to that line." 1/3 of US crops are increasingly at risk from this problem as they depend on honeybees for pollination.

   o o o

J.D. in Virginia found this item: Backyard Bunnies Are the New Urban Chickens

   o o o

Jason M. sent us a link to a video of a genuine character somewhere in the Deep South that demonstrates how to catch snapping turtles, by hand.

   o o o

Software Turns Your Cell Phone Against You. As previously mentioned, the only way to be absolutely sure that your cell phone can't be used for tracking or eavesdropping is to remove the battery. (A hat tip to Brian B for the link. )

   o o o

SurvivalBlog's Editor At Large Michael Z. Williamson sent us a link to this article: Army drops bayonets, busts abs in training revamp. Mike's comment: "They are stupidly dropping bayonet drills, which promote aggressiveness and are a useful combat skill. While one need not spend boatloads of time on it. Boxing is another thing they should use to promote aggressiveness."



"Tears are the silent language of grief." - Voltaire (François-Marie Arouet)


Wednesday, March 17, 2010


For those who missed it, my recent lengthy radio interview with George Noory on Coast-to-Coast AM is now available on YouTube.

---

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



By definition survival preparedness means attaining the state of having been made ready to outlive another person, thing, or event. Years pass by reminding us that life is short and meant to be enjoyed. People concentrate on material items but often overlook factors involved in determining the comfort level of a new living situation. A true self assessment now will determine whether life is barely survivable or comfortable.

People forget how the mind body element affects lifestyle changes. It is important to assess your actions before a situation takes away your ability to feed the habits that control you. Reflect on the past week of your life. How much of your day do you sit? If you add up the time spent watching television, typing on a computer, reading, driving a vehicle, and sleeping, you will see that a lack of movement outweighs your time spent participating in physical activities.

Now imagine how long you would spend sitting in a survival situation? Could we chop enough wood to heat a house? When was the last time we walked several miles to reach our destination? Do we produce gardens without a motorized tiller, or tend to the weeds on a daily basis without experiencing back pain? Would working our muscles on a daily basis result in overstrained and dehydrated bodies? What about the other people we are sharing our lives with? Could they carry their weight in a survival situation or would we have to find a way to carry the weight for them?

Today should be the day that we start training our muscles for additional activity that our bodies may encounter in the future. Changing our sedentary lifestyle and keeping our bodies hydrated plays an important role in body performance and repair. The ability to perform tasks and awaken the next day feeling refreshed will increase our quality of life whether our living situation changes or stays the same.

Another fact that should encourage us to start moving deals with the medicines we put into our bodies. Diabetes, heart disease, and high cholesterol affect our health. Many times obesity and being unfit initiate the disease which invades our systems. In this day we depend on medicines to fix our broken parts. I have been fortunate to control my diabetes through diet and exercise, but I must consider the facts that medicines may not be as easily available in the future. Becoming physically fit now will help to ward off or slow down illnesses that require medication as treatment. We must realize that some medicines may not be available or may be too expensive to purchase in the days ahead.

Upon waking do you automatically reach for a cup of coffee, cigarette, or cup of tea? Throughout the day how many times do chocolate bars or sodas pass by your lips? An addiction to caffeinated items or nicotine wreaks havoc on the mind and body when abruptly cut from the system. Withdrawal symptoms cause even the strongest person to feel like they are losing their sanity if not ready to battle the changes attacking their body.

I encountered the physical, psychological, and mental pains when we moved to a remote island in Alaska. Living 30 minutes from town by plane or three hours by boat meant groceries arrived once in a two week period. I decided that this would be the time to quit smoking. I flew in feeling confident. Bite the bullet, go cold turkey, dispose of a habit I hated but never conquered. In this situation failure would not be an option. How could I smoke if there were no cigarettes and no way to purchase a pack?

Less than 24 hours passed before the withdrawal effects began choking the confidence from me. Chest pains, headaches, dizziness attacked my body. Unfortunately for my family this was the least painful part of my experiment. The moodiness, irritability, and depression arrived. I turned from Dr. Jekyll into Mr. Hyde. No one was safe from my wrath. I hid in the house, flipping from a rabid dog to a tearful mess. I could not think, or focus on anything. I had become irrational over giving up a habit I hated because of the control it had on my body.

You may not smoke cigarettes, but it is time to assess the caffeine and other chemicals you put in your body on a daily basis. Try going one day without any exposure to your habit or addiction. Then take a good look at how it affects you physically, psychologically, and emotionally. If it were erased from your life without any warning could you live with yourself? Could other people live with you?

When it comes to entertainment how much of the digital age controls your pleasure? In survival, quality of life must be rediscovered. We must relearn to use our bodies and minds in ways that we either have not used in a long time, or as in our children’s cases, never had to use. If a family chose to turn off the television, computers, and radio for one week, they could learn a lot about themselves and the people they live with.

We must find ways to be entertained by low tech ways. Reading books, playing cards board games, or talking to each other can become alternate choices for entertainment. Our first month living in remote Alaska taught us that without television, evening hours seemed to increase. We found ourselves going to bed several hours earlier when there was no computer or television to occupy our minds. Spending those evenings without using technology we learned to entertain ourselves, and it revealed how much time we had to communicate with each other. We no longer whined about not having any time to talk; now we found ourselves sitting in silence searching for things to talk about.

A positive attitude and a curious nature can ease the shock if technology is removed from one’s lifestyle. Is your glass half full or half empty? Finding something good in negative or stressful situations can bring about some peace to help get you through. A curious nature can open up the world in unexpected ways. Learning something new can encourage you to want to learn more.

As a parent when my child would refuse to try something new I would ask them how they knew they disliked it if they had never tried it. As adults we need to remember that also. Sometimes stuck in a rut we forget that trying something we have never done may give us joys we never dreamed of experiencing.

The next time you look at a flower, or a butterfly, or ladybug; stop. Observe the movements, or colors, or the small parts that make up this living item. If we are lucky it will bring back the child-like side in us where our mouths drop open in awe at the beauty in front of us. Letting ourselves experience life through the eyes or our hidden child can make life a bit easier to handle. We have to remember to ask ourselves one question when stuck in a bad situation. If I died tomorrow would this have been worth getting upset over? If the answer is no then take a deep breath and move on.

Beauty brought out by our curious nature and positive attitude does bring us around to one more point that is important in keeping a strong mental outlook on lifestyle changes.

Faith
Practicing and studying your faith now will increase the level of comfort in a survival situation. Having a belief in a higher power can give people strength when all seems lost and will provide the hope needed to make life feel safe and secure.

These are the things we should force ourselves to look at when preparing for a survival situation. Could you survive days of physical labor, cooking from scratch, gardening for your food, chopping wood, carrying water, lack of entertainment from televisions, computers, and radios or walking for miles to get to your destination? Are you physically and psychologically strong enough to survive without being stopped by cramping muscles, irritable mood swings, or boredom and depression? Are you prepared to keep a positive outlook alive to survive in a world where most people of today would find it unbearable, and be strong enough to repeat the process tomorrow? These are some items we need to focus on and realize that accomplishing them are as much of a necessity as having enough food, water and protective shelter so that we not only stay alive but are able to live our lives. Making the most of each day whether in today’s world or tomorrows depends on us deciding the level of comfort we want to experience and how determined we are to change now for a comfortable quality of life in the future.

The three conventional survival necessities are water, food, and shelter. Preparing yourself mentally, physically and emotionally will allow you to use these three basics to give you a life worthy of living. I challenge everyone to take a true self assessment and add your own well being as a necessity in preparation.



Howzit J.R.,
I'm a newbie groupie to your site, now on a daily basis. I'm going through the archives, year by year, and am compiling useful info for my situation. I've realized that at some point, due to the number of visitors to your site, [voluntary] membership dues may be necessary, just to support the technical requirements of having it. No problemo. I've never seen anything like the SurvivalBlog site, so my dues are in-bound.

I've seen previous posts about the tsunami warning in Hawai‘i, but not from a local resident perspective. I'll give you mine.

I live on Kaua‘i, in a flood and tsunami inundation zone. I work in the County Planning Department, and am very familiar with the geographical issues of where I live. I also am a Hurricane Iniki survivor, so I know of what I speak. The service you provide, if taken seriously, can be a matter of life and death, comfort and survival...or not.

My son woke me up at 5.30 a.m. and told me about the warning sirens which were to go off at 6.00 a.m., and that if a tsunami did occur, it would be at 11.00. I immediately thought "Wow, I got plenty of time to pack the truck" I woke up the wife, gave her the scoops, and told her to start packing. For me, I already had bugout bags and containers already prepped based on when I first started into your SurvivalBlog columns several months ago. I told my 21 year-old son and wife back then that it would be a good idea to pack a bugout bag just in case. Of course, they laughed, and ignored me. No problem, I did my prep. My wife packs a carry-on suitcase with clothes and says she's going into L‘hu‘e to her work place, which is centrally located on the island. Then I notice the size of her bugout bag, and ask "That's all you're taking?" She replies, if we lose the house, I'll just buy what I need. I really did have to control my face muscles - I told her okay, I'll catch up with you once I secure the house. Yeah, I know, I know.

I didn't need to join the gas parade as my truck was full, but my son did. That took him 45 minutes in line. He also filled up an extra 5 gallon container. I didn't need to join the parade at the food markets either, as I was already prepared. Ah, the luxuries of being prepared.

Once my wife is gone, the first thing I load onto my truck are my most prized possessions. My four best longboard surfboards, period. What can I say? I'm a surfer! OBTW, I did the same thing before Hurricane Iniki squatted on Kaua‘i in 1992 - I took my entire quiver of 8 surfboards and stashed them under my neighbor's house which was a post and pier construction with a height of three feet off the ground, tying them together two at a time with strips of rubber cut from tire inner tubes, then rubberizing the gate. Of course I knew that if the house blew, my boards would also go, but I had no other place to secure them.

My long guns went into a hardcover traveling case for golf clubs. Those cases are really good, and they're weather proof. I was intending to have one pistol under the drivers seat, an M1 Garand and Mini-30 with scope behind the driver's seat, and 12 gauge shotgun besides me, covered by a jacket and towel. No one else would be traveling with me besides my dog. On the floor in the cab were three ammo cans of nickels (2), and metal valuables (1) (gold, junk silver, Rolex watch, and baht chains). On the passenger's seat was a waterproof container of important papers.

In the bed of my truck: MREs; a container of all the canned foods in the kitchen; cooler of containers of water; bag of rice; 2 pots for cooking; the golf traveling case; containers of ammo (7.62x39, .30-06, .308, and various pistol calibers); a bugout container of tarps, ropes, bungie cords, candles, matches, propane containers and stoves, etc; a bugout bag of clothes, jackets, boots, socks, blanket, slippers, gloves, etc. (Yes, I had an extra set for the son and wife.); my spearfishing/diving bag, including 2 riffe spearguns; a container of dog food with water and food bowls.

In my son's truck were two bugout containers of tools, more tarps, tents, ropes, MREs, etc. He carried his .30-30 and 20 gauge with ammo. He also packed his Kawasaki dirt bike for alternative transportation, with extra gas and oil.

It took 45 minutes to 1 hour to complete the loading. We backed up the vehicles and positioned them towards the street, ready to go....we checked our neighbors to see what their choices and status was, and it was now 8.00 a.m. Those who were gone, were gone. There were three families that were going to remain - two of us were watching the television reports - we knew if anything hit Hilo on the Big Island, it would take [another] 30 minutes to hit Kaua‘i - so we had the cushion. I changed my plans - rather than an immediate evac (which the low lying coastal communities were doing in full force), I was going to stay to the very last minute because I knew there would be a potential for looting of evacuated communities (which the news began reporting several hours later), and because we had access to real time intel (the televisions and radios), and I did not want to join that evac parade if I didn't have to. My son was hesitant at first, but then realized the logic. Of course my mom and dad, daughter, and wife, who were all in safe zones, were texting and calling asking where we were. I just stopped answering the cell phone.

About 10.00, I decided to cook a steak and eggs breakfast for my son and I, on the premise we may as well eat a good one because if it gets hectic at around 11.00, we may as well not be hungry too. That was a great meal!

From the projected impact time, to 12.00, we had the television and radio on. And thank the Lord, nothing happened, this time around. The volume of traffic coming from the mountain back to the coastline was bumper to bumper for 1-2 hours. I'm so glad I wasn't in that parade.

Lessons learned: 1) The ammo cans of nickels are not a survival necessity. 2) There are different evac scenarios that may require different items 3) I've got to get my load and evac time down considerably. Under 30 minutes means an earthquake closer to home. This means I've got to better centralize those bugout containers in one or two areas of the house and garage. At least my son is aware of these containers.

I've just scored two army cots - these will be essential items for the next time. My immediate needs are basically water purification and replacement filters.

Sensei, you rock! - Longboards Rule



James Wesley:
On the palm stick topic -- I might add that a mountaineering carabiner -- the genuine load bearing kind, not the cheap copies -- would also work [as a self defense adjunct]. I routinely carry one -- and, when asked, say "Oh, I found that it makes carrying all those [full] plastic bags from the grocery store much easier. They don't bite into my hand." People see this as clever and never consider it has some alternative purpose [serving as a brass knuckle or palm stick type device]. And BTW, it also does make a great all purpose handle -- the weight rating is something like 4,000 pounds. Keep up the great work! - Karl B.

 

Jim,
Here are a few more references for the Koppo stick:

The Martialist on Pocket Sticks
The Martialist on Koppo Wraps
The Martialist - More Comments on Koppo Wraps
The FMA Blog on Pasaks

BTW, with a koppo, I recommend that you put both loose ends of the cord through the loop going in opposite directions to better hide the knot.

I carry my LED "flashlight" in a belt sheath on my weak side for easy access. - Rick H.






I have long been an advocate of folding bicycles as a Get Out of Dodge Option, especially for folks that regularly commute into an urban area. The Montague and SwissBike folding bicycles sold sold by SafeCastle are probably the best bet in the U.S. and Canada. But in the UK, the more expensive--and even more compact--Brompton brand might be a viable alternative.

   o o o

Larry M. suggested this essay by a commentator who has "connected the dots" regarding multi-generational TEOTWAWKI: How Many Shoes? by Tom Baugh. It will take traditional self-reliant skills, not just a pile of stuff to pull through a lengthy societal collapse.

   o o o

Reader P.E.D. liked USA Today's recent piece on modern-day ghost towns.

   o o o

James K. suggested the recent Instructables piece on hand-spinning wool. (As previously mentioned in the blog, we recommend that you join a local Fiber Guild to get hands-on instruction.)

   o o o

Chad S. sent this: Indiana government positions surpass factory jobs. Chad's tongue-in-cheek comment: "I'm starting to think I should get a government job so I can have job security. At least the money will never run out, right?"



"Sometimes the road less traveled is less traveled for a reason." - Jerry Seinfeld


Tuesday, March 16, 2010


Check out the several new retreat property listings that have recently been added to our spin-off web site, SurvivalRealty.com

---

I owe an apology to Fernando "FerFAL" Aquirre, the editor of the Surviving in Argentina blog. In a recent radio interview, I made reference to some of his comments in the Minion Report Forums, that I had construed as anti-semitic. He e-mailed me yesterday to clarify that he is not an anti-semite, but rather that he is only opposed to Nationalist Zionism. He explained: "I don’t agree with Israel’s foreign policy, which was led until recently by violent Zionist extremists." He also clarified: "I don’t believe one ethnicity or religion implies superiority over others and I don’t discriminate people because of their last name, skin color or religious belief." I was glad to hear that.



Sir,
Having lived in the northeastern corner of the state for the past 16 years (retired from the Air Force in 1994), I can give you some accurate information about the area for your readers who are considering moving to a retreat area.

The northeast is a very sparsely populated part of the state. I live in Washington county which has an area of some two million plus acres but only has about 5,000 or so people living here. The area is mainly in farming and ranching, and the far eastern part of this corner of the state is located on top of the Ogallala Aquifer. Wells are generally required for access to water, and land is readily available for purchase (dry land around $500 per acre, irrigated at around $750 per acre right now). The state is a "will issue" for concealed carry permits, and many of the residents are hunters.
The nearest large city in this area is Sterling (pop. about 15,000) and it does have a medium security prison on the edge of town. Otherwise, the only big cities are up on the front range (Denver, Greeley, etc).

Schools are small, teachers are always in demand (not sure of pay but it's not very high) and the general quality is high, especially compared to the front range. Employment is still fairly good out here but getting worse as we slip further into the Second Great Depression. Major employers are transportation (truck drivers) and agricultural. Game is fairly plentiful (pheasant, deer, some quail and turkey,) and the neighbors out here, while a bit clannish are friendly and helpful if you don't have a big city attitude!

The weather here can be a pain at times, but generally the winters are relatively mild (expect below zero weather for mid-winter, but not consistently) and the growing season extends from late April/early May (time for putting peas in the ground) to late September although snow has been known to fall as early as mid September. We've just recently come out of a 10 year drought, and precipitation is back to normal for the area (meaning dry land farming crops will generally work, but gardens need irrigation). Hope this might help a bit for your readers out there. Thanks and good luck! - S.C. in Washington County, Colorado



James:
I have been reading SurvivalBlog for some time and have read your novel "Patriots" and now reading "How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It". Great job and love your work. I work as a SCADA programmer for water, waste water and power plants and was wondering if you had some background on this. I know you are somewhat hard on the system as an overall and it is well aimed. Most of the programs and programmer I am around take much care as possible to keep the Windows based computer as a window into the system only. We use Industrial based control known as Programmable Logic Controllers (PLC). These are not based on the Windows platform and need a specialized programs to view and change them. I'm not saying some one can’t get into the system but it would be hard for anyone except with the software and a great deal of knowledge. We also make a special effort to always have a manual backup system that does not require the PLC to operate. Most of the Electrical Substations and power plants that I have been around the controls are so old that they are mostly "monitor only". When we program a new substation, the SCADA Computer does not make any decisions. Its only [made] by an operator interface and the trip and re-close is done be a relay, which is now electronic. (The old relays were magnetic, but with anything put in or changed in the 20 years would most likely be electronic.) There has been a move in the last few years to get away from the PLC and move to something we call Soft Logic. This is where the code is run on a Windows based computer. We have resisted because of the [inadequate] reliability of it and the threat of viruses and [the lack of] security of the Window- based platform.

I love your work and was just wondering where you knowledge came from on this subject? My family is buying into the survival thought process and it has made my road a lot easier to be prepared, I am a pastor of a small church and they sometimes look at me a little funny, but I have the family starting on the right track. Keep up the good work.

Luke 22:35-38 (NKJV)
35 And He said to them, “When I sent you without money bag, knapsack, and sandals, did you lack anything?” So they said, “Nothing.”
36 Then He said to them, “But now, he who has a money bag, let him take it, and likewise a knapsack; and he who has no sword, let him sell his garment and buy one.
37 For I say to you that this which is written must still be accomplished in Me: ‘And He was numbered with the transgressors.’ For the things concerning Me have an end.”
38 So they said, “Lord, look, here are two swords.” And He said to them, “It is enough.”

It is time to sell our Garment and buy a sword until Jesus tells us we have enough. - J.M., Pastor and SCADA Programmer



Mr. Rawles,
I hope most readers that are considering building underground shelters that are 16' by 20' with a 6" cap or roof, hire the expertise of a registered structural engineer. The design of an underground structure that have a 6" cap or ceiling as proposed by Jim O., with 1/2" rebar is not to be considered heavily reinforced by any means, and would probably be not to any CRSI design standards, unless it is braced underneath with several columns. It does not really matter if a house sets on top or several feet of earth, when properly designed.

I am not an engineer but I did hired a reputable structural engineer to design my underground room which is not connected to the house, as any fire which could occur would have the possibility of evacuating any air in the structure.This potential exists even with ventilation. My room is approximately 12' by 18' and has an 8' ceiling. The roof or ceiling is composed of 12" concrete with two layers of 3/4" rebar at 9" on centers. Concrete is of five sack [per cubic yard] design mix. The walls are 10" thick with 1/2" rebar 9" on center, the floor is 12" with 5/8" rebar 12" on centers. The ceiling is freestanding without any interior support.

Any design with 3/8" steel or even 1/2" steel for an underground shelter to support any differential movement or possibly seismic activity would in my opinion be totally insufficient in design and to proceed would be negligent without professional design. Otherwise, the result could be none other than a large concrete coffin vault.

I am a retired commercial contractor with a degree in architectural engineering. I have closed my company this year after being in business for 62 years. People please, consult with a structural engineer. I stress "Structural" as not all engineers are the same, as doctors and lawyers. All have specialties.

Otherwise, article is excellent and informative. - O.T.



Several readers mentioned this: Social Security to start cashing Uncle Sam's IOUs. This does not bode well. The most telling statement is in the sixth paragraph. In summary, we'll be borrowing from foreigners to pay our Social Security benefits. This article certainly makes it clear that Al Gore's "Lock Box" rhetoric during a presidential campaign a few years back was absolute nonsense. Congress has been busily spending your Social Security "contributions", for many years. Here is a quote from the article: "In all, the agency has about $2.5 trillion in bonds, all backed by the full faith and credit of the U.S. government." Doesn't that give you a warm, fuzzy feeling? L'empereur est sans culottes.

GG sent this: Ratings agency warns on US public finances. L'empereur est sans culottes.

Reader H.J. sent this: Another Record Month of Red Ink: Government Racked Up Record Monthly Deficit of $220 Billion in February. L'empereur est sans culottes.

Frank. L. flagged this: Is There Gold in Fort Knox? L'empereur est sans culottes.

From Darryl Robert Schoon: Will the US Devalue the Dollar? L'empereur est sans culottes.

Items from The Economatrix:

Stocks Fall On Concern About US Credit Rating

Industrial Production Rises 0.1% in February

Oil Falls Near $79 On US Crude Demand Worries

Why Middle-Class Money Woes Rage On

UK: Another Banking Crisis Looms



Lawlessness after quake in Chile fishing village. The article begins: "Rene Orellana sleeps with a shotgun in his hands. 'I have to,' he says, motioning towards a shattered window frame covered with a tarpaulin." (Thanks to Alex S. for the link.) We also read: Chile May Face More Blackouts After 80% Lose Power
   o o o

Some excellent "old knowledge" links to references like Late 19th Century/Early 20th Century formularies were recently posted over at the LATOC Forums. I recommend archiving some of these on CD-ROMs. (Thanks to Bob G. for sending the tip!)

   o o o

M24 Sniper Rifle Fixes in the Works.

   o o o

Several folks wrote to ask me for more information about the The Carrington Event of 1859, that I mentioned in my recent radio interview with George Noory on Coast-to-Coast AM. Here is a good summary: The Great Storm: Solar Tempest of 1859 Revealed.



"...the United States government and its agencies have, by far, the largest pile-up of interest-bearing debts ($15.6 trillion), the largest accumulation of unsecured obligations (over $60 trillion), the largest yearly deficit ($1.6 trillion), and the greatest indebtedness to the rest of the world ($4.8 trillion)." - Martin D. Weiss


Monday, March 15, 2010


I've added several new bookmarks to my Links page.

---

Today is the last day in the Ready Made Resources 25% off sale on Mountain House freeze dried foods in #10 cans. They are now offering free shipping on mixed case lots, as long as you order in increments of full cases! Get your order in by midnight, eastern time!

---

Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



The palm stick, sometimes called a Yawara stick, or Kubotan, is an excellent and highly effective tool for self-defense. The tactical folding knife and the concealed pistol typically dominate the self-defense culture, especially when weapons are discussed. However, the palm stick has several advantages and applications that firearms and knives cannot match.

Typically a palm stick measure around six inches in length, and about a half inch in diameter. Six inches is a good length, in my opinion. This combines concealment with a length that is still practical for offensive moves. A half inch may be a tad skinny, but too much thicker and one starts to get into concealment issues again, as well as weight and gripping ability. On the whole, I have found that the commercial off-the-shelf palm stick to be sufficient for the average citizen.

Since most of our palm sticks are going to be key chains, it pays to be aware of everything else that is in your pocket, and not to keep your keys in a place that is not readily accessible. One of the things I do is typically grab onto the kubotan and hold onto it loosely if I think there may be any sort of confrontation. It’s important to practice pulling the stick from its place of concealment, and practice with a purpose.

By "practice with a purpose", I mean simply bring the palm stick out and strike a target, real or imaginary. Do it with speed. One of the things I do, with a palm stick or folding knife, is bring it out and thrust it straight towards the chin area of an imagined opponent. This is good in either provoking a flinch, or hitting a target that can cause a great deal of pain, allowing for a successful escape.

Once you have practiced drawing the palm stick, it’s time to practice swinging it, stick part first. Obviously, its length precludes one from swinging the palm stick like a baton. However, there are a great variety of other techniques that are surprisingly effective.

For starters, grip the stick in the center, with a closed fist wrapped all the way around, making sure that there is a sufficient striking surface sticking out of both sides of the fist. One can grip off-center, and use the palm stick in a similar fashion as a knife, but that is not a technique I would recommend for beginners.

Next, practice a hammerfist technique, with the outside portion of your fist, or the part made up by the pinky finger. This is quite possibly one of the simplest strikes to learn and practice. Practice an overhead strike, a backhand hammerfist, a low hammerfist, and a palm-up hammer fist. Try striking in a variety of angles, with the hand in different positions. The length and hardness of the palm stick will turn this simple technique into one that becomes devastating when applied to nearly any part of the body. Imagine slipping this hammerfist into someone’s ribs, head, cheek, neck, hand, forearm, and you begin to see my point. It is a simple way to cause pain and damage to an attacker.

The next thing to do is practice with the inside of the fist, the part along the thumb. This strike may take a little more practice and finesse, but it also can be quicker, and just as painful. Practice strikes from top, bottom, left and right. Aim high, low, face, stomach, ribs, anywhere you can think of to strike. Later on, I will list some of my favorite targets. The forward portion of the fist also requires a little bit of coordination. If you find yourself having trouble, try to imagine a hook punch or a haymaker punch. In essence, this is what you are throwing, only not with the knuckles of the fist. Also, do not neglect a palm up strike.

Now, you already have formed a fist. Might as well take advantage of the fist and the natural inclination to punch someone, and practice a few jabs and crosses, with the palm stick. Punching with the palm stick has many advantages over having an empty hand. For starters, there is a little added weight to the hand, making a punch have more impact. Secondly, if the punch itself misses, the palm stick may graze the person, or the keys that may be attached to the stick. Last, and probably most important, the palm stick provides a measure of support and reinforcement for the knuckles and finger bones in the fist. Many people can easily break their own bones by punching someone in the head, which is an instinctive place to punch. A palm stick is one method of reinforcing these fragile bones and preventing serious injury.

Once again, a boxer’s delivery will help the most for punching. If you have no prior experience, simply try to remember a couple things. Always keep your hands up, bring your hands right back to your guard, and don’t rear back for the punch. Most likely if you have internet access, you can find a couple videos that can get you started on learning how to punch properly. At the end of this article I will provide a list of references for more information on punching and weapons for self-defense.
Now, in the case of a key-chain palm stick, the keys themselves have tremendous advantage over just a palm stick without keys. Keys are sharp, somewhat heavy, and can be swung by that palm stick with a decent amount of force. Practice swinging the keys in an X-pattern, known as ikis in Kali. Swing diagonally from upper right, then from upper left. The goal is to not only hit the person, but also convince them that you mean business so that they may run off and find easier prey. If they decide to rush in, imagine the consequence of taking a set of keys to the face. The psychological impact alone of having sharp metal objects swung at one’s face cannot be overlooked. If the attacker puts their hands up in attempt to ward off an attack, then any low-line targets such as the thigh, knee, or groin are open for some other attack.

A couple of years ago, a friend introduced the idea of holding the keys and swinging the palm stick. This is not my favorite method, but that does not mean it should not be trained. The advantages of this are that the palm stick typically has more solid mass than the keys, and can be swing a little harder due to leverage. I think that the keys are a bit trickier to get a grip on, but that may be my personal opinion. In any event, swinging the palm stick can be used just like swinging the keys. Describe an X pattern in the air in front of you. Ideally, this X should start at about the enemy’s collar bone, and cross about the solar plexus.

Care must be taking to balance striking power with control. Take care not to over-swing, and over-commit. W. Hock Hocheim describes the “window of combat”, a rectangle loosely bordered by mid thigh, to about shoulder height, no wider than the shoulders. If your swings start getting outside of this window, you are over-swinging, and opening yourself up to an enemy being able to defeat your defenses.

The palm stick can also be applied to a variety of pain points. The middle of the back of the hand, the notch at the bottom of the throat, under the nose, under the mouth, and behind the ear are some of the ones that come to mind immediately. A quick strike to the carotid artery, no matter how lightly, can have literally stunning results on an opponent. A strike to the temple can be potentially fatal, as can a strike to the trachea.

Using a palm stick, it can be possibly to break an attacker’s collarbone with a hammerfist attack. If you are grabbed, in addition to a releasing technique, a quick strike to either the offending limb or the person’s solar plexus will loosen their grip, making it easier to get away.

If you double the person over, a hammerfist to the back of the neck can have potentially fatal consequences, and will at least leave the attacker stunned and lying on the ground, unable to continue the attack. The palm stick can be thrust into either the groin or the solar plexus, with devastatingly painful results. [JWR Adds: In many law enforcement circles, baton strikes to the neck or head are considered potentially lethal, and reserved only for life-threatening situations that are comparable to firing a gun.] If the groin seems protected, the inside of the leg can be struck, as this can strike or come close to striking the femoral artery, a painful and potentially stunning blow. If the hands are high, aim for the ribs with either the inside or outside edge of the hammerfist. Ribs are always a good target for causing maximum pain and damage.

If you know any throws or takedowns, the palm stick can assist. One simple judo throw, o-soto gari, calls for the fist to apply pressure to the collarbone. That same pressure can be applied with the palm stick, to the collarbone or the throat area, making this simple foot sweep even more effective.

Against edged weapons, the palm stick has somewhat less usefulness. As always, the best chance of success against and edged weapon is to catch the weapon bearing limb, preferably after hitting the attacker with a chair, brick, or a car. Once you have caught the weapon bearing limb, you can beat on the wrist, the fragile bones of the hand, the elbow, and the inside of the biceps. All areas are vulnerable to strikes, and have numerous pain receptors. In the case of the inside of the biceps, there is a nerve cluster there that tends to send a shooting pain down the arm, sometimes making it go numb. It is not a strike to count on, but a possible and worthwhile target nevertheless.

A palm stick can be homemade quite easily. One merely has to select a thickness of dowel, preferable at least a half inch thick, measure out enough so that there is a striking surface of at least a quarter inch on each side of the fist, and cut it to fit. Added options include placing a weight in the center of the stick, drilling two holes in the stick and tying a cord [to make it into a Koppo stick], or making one end slightly sharper, or at least more pointed than the other.

At least one martial art that I’ve seen, Goju-Ryu Karate, which is an Okinawan style, has a kata that uses two palm sticks, although they are considerably smaller than what I’ve described here. Many Filipino systems cover the palm stick, if not in precise detail.

Many tactical folding knives can double as a palm stick, if the user is not able to deploy the blade right away. However, some State [and local] laws may prohibit carry of knives [or even palm sticks]. But keep in mind that several tactical flashlights, such as Surefire [and Mini-MagLite], can be used as a palm stick. Surefire and a couple other companies make flashlights with beveled front edges, specifically for this purpose. [JWR Adds: These are generally legal to carry. Ditto for beefy pens that run the gamut from the very inexpensive Cold Steel Pocket Shark to the very expensive Mont Blanc Meisterstuck. If you opt for the Pocket Shark (which, BTW, is what I carry when I fly on commercial airplane flights), then I recommend scraping off all of the pen's exterior markings. Be sure to consult the laws for wherever you will travel!]

There is a great deal of martial arts instructional material available on sites like YouTube if one does a simple search. [JWR Adds: Try doing searches at YouTube that include "palm stick ", "Kubotan", and even the very common misspelling: "Kubaton".] Much of my own instruction has come from W. Hock Hocheim, and guru Marc Halleck. Both individuals have first rate instructional DVDs.

In summary, the palm stick is an overlooked and easily used piece of self-defense equipment. Useful for striking and grappling, it can cause a great deal of pain with a reduced risk to the user. It’s easily concealed, easily employed. Overlooked by the majority of law enforcement officers and civilians alike, it can be hidden in plain sight. You’ll never have to leave it in your house while you go to the bank or a school board meeting. With a little elbow grease one can be custom made for every member of the family. The principles of the palm stick can be taught to children and adults. It is not a tool that depends on the use of the right hand or left hand. It may not have the range of some other more conventional self-defense tools, but it is much more versatile than the average citizen realizes.

About the Author: Kent is an 11-year veteran of the U.S. Army's Infantry Corps, now serving his third tour in Iraq. He has been studying Filipino Martial Arts (Kali, Arnis, and Silat), for about seven years. In addition, he has been training in various military and civilian combatives programs since joining the Army. He has taught combatives and martial arts to his fellow soldiers, and civilians.

JWR Adds: A full line of inexpensive yet very well-made high impact American-made plastic palm sticks is available from Alpha Innovations. They also make "Letter Openers", and other other high density injection-molded goodies. Their "Stylus Kubaton" variant is ideal for anyone that carries a touchscreen PDA or an iPhone. (Consult your local laws before ordering!) OBTW, they also make some amazing custom products and sell training DVDs.



Hello,
Thank you so much for your books and Internet work. I have been storing food using the method of dry ice fumigation with five gallon buckets and mylar bags [as described in "How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It". and in the "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course]. My family and I enjoy using brown rice quite a bit and I have read many articles explaining the oxidation of the fatty acids which is what causes the brown rice to have a short shelf life. What I can't seem to find is an answer to whether the replacement of air in the mylar bags with carbon dioxide will slow down or stop the rice from going rancid. I thought that maybe you have run across the science behind this idea. Does the minimal amount of gas exchange from outside the container negate this affect?

I have a couple of other observations regarding this storage method as well. When preparing to package foods I always crank up the wood stove in my house so there isn't a lot of moisture in the air to get in the food. With that said, I still get quite a lot of ice crystals, that turn into water, forming on the outside of the dry ice chunks while they sublimate. I usually put a piece of paper under the dry ice so the residual water doesn't make it's way down into the food and get trapped there when I seal up the container. I am not sure if the moisture is originating from the air in my house or from the food that I am packaging. Either way this got me concerned about the advice, which I have seen on many web sites and in other books, that you can put the dry ice on the bottom the container and put the food on top of it. I would think that this would trap some water at the bottom of the container, which is not a good thing.

My other observation has been that after the dry ice is done sublimating and I seal up the mylar bags with my wife's hair straightener, within a couple of days I go back and check on the bags and they look like they have been vacuum sealed. Apparently there is some sort of chemical reaction with the carbon dioxide that creates a vacuum in the bag. The question about this would be if there are any long term consequences from this reaction regarding shelf life or food quality. Again, thank you so much for all that you do and feel free to post this if you find it to be helpful. Best Regards, - Jesse in Oregon

JWR Replies: Rancidity is caused by oxidation and hydrolysis. The time required for rancidity to occur varies, with temperature as one of the biggest factors. (The higher the temperature, the quicker the onset of rancidity.) Foods with high oil content are prone to what is called oxidative rancidity. This is where there is a degradation of long-chain fatty acids into various short-chain compounds. One of the byproducts is butyric acid, which creates the distinctive "gone rancid" smell. To make a long story short, to minimize the risk of rancidity, keep rice stored below 60 degrees (the ideal would be just above freezing, but avoid fluctuations in and out of freezing), and at the same time minimize exposure to oxygen. Hence, CO2 packaging inside a mylar barrier bag works quite well.



James,
Chris Wood, of CLSA and author of the Greed & Fear newsletter, was recently interviewed on CNBC and stated that the collapse of the Dollar would likely take place within five years. CNBC's Dennis Kneale, however, asserts that the Dollar is "self-healing", so that when the panic begins, "...suddenly people want to go into the Dollar, because the US Government is the most stable government on the planet". I had to rewind, because I couldn't believe what I had just heard.

This is precisely why looking to mainstream news sources as reliable conduits of factual information is so dangerous. If the US
government is the most stable government on the planet, then the world is in worse shape than I'd ever imagined. Cheers, - H.H.



J.D.D. sent this British newspaper article: Detroit family homes sell for just $10

CNN Money offers a baker's dozen of articles about America's fiscal disaster. (Thanks to S.M. for the link.)

Straycat sent us this item: States Facing Financial Doomsday as Debts Mount

SurvivalBlog's Poet Laureate, George Gordon ("GG"), spotted this: New round of foreclosures threatens housing market

My old friend Sandy mentioned this: Iceland, the Mouse that Roared.

Odds 'n Sods:



Richard S. liked this article on aquaculture: Dan Barber: How I fell in love with a fish.

   o o o

My brother Bruce (the well-known Sacred Geometry author) sent me a link to a YouTube video that has absolutely nothing to do with preparedness, but that is a lot of fun: The Ultimate Rube Goldberg Contraption. (Don't forget that despite my rural locale, I'm still one of those semi-geeky Makezine guys that likes watching those Eepy Bird Experiments.)

   o o o

U.S. reverses stance on treaty to regulate arms trade. (Watch out folks: Hillary is at the helm on this one!)

   o o o

Ian (from Nanny State Britannia) set a link to a BBC piece about the Open Carry movement in the United States: Armed and ready to shop. The dozens of anti-gun comments that were posted following the article are indicative that the UK is a lost cause. Take the Gap!



"Are you where you want to be if it doesn’t work?" - Novelist Louis L’Amour (1908-1988)


Sunday, March 14, 2010


Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



My wife and I lived in place with no underground  rooms (such as a basement of a cellar) since we have been married.  As I have matured and my desire for disaster preparation has increased, I began to realize the importance of having an underground room for storage (particularly food storage and other things necessary for survival in the event of a short term or long term TEOTWAWKI) and protection from disasters such as heavy storms, tornadoes, nuclear activity, etc.  My career in construction, specializing in masonry and excavation, made this goal one that was easily attainable and I would like to share some things that I incorporated as I built and prepared this space for those possible emergency situations.

We were in need of a master bedroom addition on our small home.  So I decided to incorporate our underground room under it.  I will talk about the stages along the way that you will face so that you (working with the people that you may need to hire) can be prepared and have a head start.

The first step is to obtain the proper permits (a step that I decided to skip, as I live in a lenient county in a very rural area).  I chose to keep my project as low key as possible.  But I thought I should include this step because life could become very difficult in some areas where building inspectors and codes are strict.  Be sure to know where all underground utilities and wires are at on the property before moving forward with excavation.  Severing gas and electrical lines will most certainly ruin your day. [JWR Adds: There are free line-locating services provided by most utilities. In the US, just call 811. See this site for "pre-dig" numbers for Canada.]

After excavating, I poured the floor.   If you are not experienced  placing and finishing concrete, you will want to seriously consider hiring professional help.  If you decide you have the skills and strength to take on this task, make sure you have all the tools and adequate manpower to help.  Make sure to adequately reinforce your concrete (I always use steel reinforcing bar ("rebar") of at least 3/8” diameter).  I poured my floor approximately 6 inches thick.  You may want to pour concrete footers and lay up (or pour) your walls on the footers, leaving the floor to pour later.  I opted just to pour a thick, adequately reinforced floor, and lay up my walls on it.   Wanting to have some space for a root cellar, I left the floor in that area a dirt floor (to increase humidity, important for root cellaring).   I used standard  8x8x16 block for the walls.  You could form and pour your walls with concrete if you prefer.  I poured the cells of the block with rebar and concrete for reinforcement (making sure to leave adequate rebar extended to tie the ceiling and walls together).  Remember, concrete strength is always unpredictable without the use of reinforcement.   For the root cellar, I left lower and upper ventilation for circulation, also important.

As I planned, I decided to go with a seven foot ceiling.  I decided this because I wanted to be able to drain water without the use of pumps, and this made it possible.  Rain and groundwater can be your worst enemy, and I did not want to depend on a pump and electricity to take care of removing water.  I put a drain line in the dirt section of floor in the root cellar and sloped the concrete slightly towards the drain.  A pump may be necessary for your situation.  If it is, you may want to consider using a sump pump capable of being run by a battery backup.  Do not forget to put your sump pump pit in before pouring your floor and slope your concrete accordingly.  Proper grade around the perimeter of your  underground room will greatly reduce the risk of water problems, especially when combined with properly installed gutters (if your underground room has a room above it like ours does).   Also install  a waterproof coating on the outside of the walls and a perimeter drain.  Again, the perimeter drain would best be drained by gravity, but if this is not possible, drain it into your sump pump.  Always backfill with an adequate amount of gravel.  This will allow water to infiltrate down to the perimeter drain freely and will help keep your perimeter drain from being plugged.  I have been in this kind of work for many years, and I have seen many water problems caused by improperly  installed perimeter drains that have eventually filled with silt over time.

I decided to go with a concrete lid, heavily reinforced with ½” diameter rebar, to top off our new 16 ft by 20 ft underground room.   You will want to find out how much reinforcement and how thick the concrete will need to be in order to span the distance you need.   Also critical is the placement of the rebar in the concrete.  When spanning an open room, you will want to place the rebar towards the bottom of your concrete.   Make sure to be vigilant to make all the necessary rebar connections.  Not many different building materials do worse in an earthquake than un-reinforced or improperly reinforced masonry and concrete.  When it is necessary to overlap ("lap") your rebar, make sure that the length of the rebar lap is equal to 40 bar diameters of the size rebar you are using.  For example, if using ½ diameter (#4) rebar, your rebar lap will be 20 inches.  If you decide to go with a concrete lid, make sure to adequately brace your forms.  A collapse (or even a sag) would be a disaster for sure.  I used sheet metal roofing under the concrete, which ultimately become the ceiling of my room.  Make sure to leave some fasteners to anchor the sheet metal to the concrete, or the metal will sag when the forms are removed.

Since I wanted a dry and canned food storage (low humidity) area along with a root cellar, I built insulated walls to separate the two rooms.  I decided to build my own shelves for these rooms (you may want to buy yours).  Nonetheless, I took into consideration a few things.  One was to make them very sturdy.  Bulk food can be heavy.  Another consideration was to attach them to the walls and make a lip around the outside edge of the shelves.  That always unexpected earthquake could deplete your food supply quickly, especially glass containers.  I also liked the idea of building my own shelves so that I could build them to best suit my needs with the shelf heights and widths that were best for my particular situation.  This room would also be a great spot for your freezers.  You may want to consider a DC freezer with some solar panels and batteries or a propane freezer for those times of extended power outages.  Freezers may not be a necessity, but they sure would be a welcome luxury in those times without electricity.  This would also be a good spot to keep an adequate supply of drinking water.

Last thing I will leave you with to consider is your consideration for a dehumidifier.  You will want one for your dry storage area.  Moisture and stored foods do not go well together (not to mention moisture’s effect on guns, ammunition, other steel items, clothes, blankets, etc).  Some dehumidifiers operate better in lower temperatures, so do your research.

Since the completion of our room, this space has proven to be well worth the time and resources that it took to build it.  One day it may be crucial in the sustaining of our lives for any number of reasons.  Hope this article leaves those who read it with some helpful advice to think about.





John at SurvivalistBooks.com sent us a link to an interesting article on American preppers, from a French newspaper: If the sh** hits the fan, they are ready for it.

   o o o

Chuck sent me this: Hard Times Turn Coupon Clipping Into the Newest Extreme Sport

   o o o

Tomorrow is the last day in the Ready Made Resources 25% off sale on Mountain House freeze dried foods in #10 cans. They are now offering free shipping on mixed case lots, as long as you order in increments of full cases! Get your order in by midnight, eastern time on the 15th!

   o o o

Troy V. wrote to mention a radio interview with Gerald Celente, wherein he recounts his experiences in Chile during the recent earthquake. Apparently, he and a friend set a new world speed record for running down hotel stairwells.

   o o o

Several readers sent the link to this piece by Michelle Malkin: Obama’s war on fishing?



Praise ye the LORD. Sing unto the LORD a new song, [and] his praise in the congregation of saints.
Let Israel rejoice in him that made him: let the children of Zion be joyful in their King.
Let them praise his name in the dance: let them sing praises unto him with the timbrel and harp.
For the LORD taketh pleasure in his people: he will beautify the meek with salvation.
- Psalm 149:1-4 (KJV)


Saturday, March 13, 2010


Today we present another entry for Round 27 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round will include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner's choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost between $500 and $600, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees, in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $392 value.) C.) A HAZARiD Decontamination Kit from Safecastle.com. (A $350 value.), and D.) A 500 round case of Fiocchi 9mm Luger, 124gr. Hornady XTP/HP ammo, courtesy of Sunflower Ammo. This is a $249 value.

Second Prize: A "grab bag" of preparedness gear and books from Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $350.

Third Prize: A copy of my "Rawles Gets You Ready" preparedness course, from Arbogast Publishing.

Round 27 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical "how to" skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



When one thinks of a slingshot, the image of the forked stick and rubber band hanging out of the back pocket of Dennis the Menace is usually what comes to mind. Often overlooked in the survival community, the slingshot can be a valuable addition to any survival kit or day pack.

For all intents and purposes, the best tool for taking small game that a survivalist can have, in my opinion, is a .22 pistol. Until very recently, though, it was illegal to carry them into state parks. To those who are not up to date on local and state ordinances, it can be extremely confusing where you are allowed to posses a firearm. In Colorado, a hiker can unknowingly cross land owned by three different agencies in less than half an hour while on a trail. Knowing if you can or cannot carry a survival pistol, and the consequences of getting it wrong, cause many hikers to just leave them at home. With the threat of a felony conviction, fines, jail time, confiscation of your weapon, and future headache associated, it just doesn’t seem worth the trouble.

Slingshots bridge the gap between small but possibly illegal .22 handguns and snares for catching dinner in the wild. Other primitive weapons have limitations that often leave them in the back of the pickup when you need them. Bows and arrows are unwieldy and not usually taken on simple nature hikes. The atlatl is difficult to master for even the most ardent of survivalists, let alone carrying around a 5 foot arrow. Weapons such as the boomerang and bolo take skill and are not designed for small game. Blow guns are fine but are limited to the number of darts you have brought along. Making darts by hand takes time and patience, little of which you have in a survival situation.

Today’s slingshots are lightweight, collapsible, and reliable weapons that can be utilized to kill small furbearing game and birds. Whereas traps and snares are good for catching game that might come by in a few hours; they are useless for getting that squirrel staring at you from the tree branch 30 feet away. This is where the slingshot comes into its own. It offers you the ability to silently take an accurate thirty foot shot with the option of a rapid follow up shot. Ammo for your slingshot can be anything that fits into the pouch. Steel ball bearings, marbles, lead fishing weights, and spent bullets all make good ammo. The added bonus is that if you run out, you can always pick up a stone. The more round the stone is, the better it will fly. This means you never have to worry about running out of ammo. You can shoot at anything that moves and improve your odds at getting lucky.

Mastering the slingshot is as simple as taking an empty cardboard box in the back yard and drawing a bulls-eye in magic marker. After about an hour of plinking, with a wide array of ammo and at various distances, you should have a firm grasp of the abilities and limitations of his or her slingshot. Aiming is a simple affair. The two most common methods deal with whether or not you have a forearm support. For those who do have a forearm support, hold the slingshot upright with a strong grip, pull back the sling, center your target between the tops of the braces, and let fly. For the older “Dennis the Menace” style, hold the slingshot sideways with your thumb in the notch of the supports. Draw back like a mini-bow, aim, and fire. This position allows you to get a stronger draw without putting too much tension on your wrist.

Modern slingshots are widely available at almost any big box store, costing anywhere from $10 to $25 dollars, depending on quality and accessories. Although I find sighting systems on slingshots to be unnecessary, I do recommend a slingshot with a folding wrist/forearm support. The forearm support redistributes the tension from the sling away from the shooters wrist, saving the shooter the pain and embarrassment of having the sling shot ripped from your hand and hitting you in the face. A majority of the slingshots I have seen sold at army surplus stores and Wal-Mart have a hollow handle for storage. I find this extremely useful for storing the most basic of survival kits. I have a small ziploc-style bag containing three strike anywhere matches, a cotton ball, and a X-Acto knife blade. With this, I can skin my kill, start a fire, and whittle a skewer to cook it on.

Should you feel so inclined, a simple X brace can be tied onto the supports of slingshot in order to fire arrows for larger game. After some fiddling to get the height right, simply lay the arrow into the notch made by the X brace and seat it in the pouch. Now you will be able to aim down the shaft and fire it in same manner as a horizontal bow. This method is good if larger mammals come by, such as marmot or raccoon. I find that modern arrows work best, but feel free to try and whittle yourself one out of a straight tree branch.

Slingshots can also be used to distract and defend yourself while on the trail. Not many people think about attacks that happen in national parks, but they do happen. The IRA has famously used slingshots as weapons, during the war in Northern Ireland. Although it has no guarantee of a lethal shot, a strong strike to the face, neck or groin from a hefty lead fishing sinker or ball bearing will put the breaks on any attacker looking for an easy target. Granted, you will need to be alert to possible danger in order to utilize it, but if you weren’t paying attention to your surroundings, your going to get owned no matter what your packing.

Another great thing about slingshots is the multiple uses for there parts. The surgical tubing scavenged off a slingshot can be uses as; a drinking straw, a tourniquet, or a strong a fast engine for holding or spring traps. If in the event your supports break, but the rubber sling is still good, you can make a hand spear out of it. Simply tie your band in a loop, and then loop it around your thumb and index finger. Take whatever thin stick you are using as a spear and seat in the pouch of your band. Pull back and hold the spear with the same thumb and index finger your band is looped around, aim and let go.

For those of you who want to make your own, a decent sling shot can be made in about ten minutes. First find a stout stick roughly the width of your thumb with a fairly even fork in it. Trim the handle length to suit your preferences. Next, make two small notches on either side of what is to be your supports. This is where the rubber will be seated so that it doesn’t slide off the end. If it is green wood, allow it to dry out in the sun or by your campfire overnight. This will make the wood more rigid, allowing you to get more power behind your projectile. The type of rubber you use will make all the difference. Latex sheeting, surgical tubing, and layered rubber bands make good slingshot material, but improvised elastics can be taken out of the waistband of your underwear. Prison inmates have been doing it for years. Get two lengths about a foot long and tie one end to your supports, one for each side. After that, you will need to make a pouch. This can be any square sheet of material you can cut off, from an old nylon bag or t-shirt. Make two small holes about a quarter inch from the edge and tie your rubber slings through them. That’s it. Test and modify as needed. Understand though, despite how good your whittling skills are, anything you make can be matched or beaten by a cheap commercial slingshot in most instances.

My last point I want to cover is the difference between modern slingshots with rubber tubing, and biblical slingshots like the one that David used to slay Goliath. The biblical slingshot is nothing more than a strip of rawhide about 5 feet long, with a pouch in the middle. One in had a loop that went over the middle finger while the other end was pinched between the thumb and index finger. You spun it either beside you or over your head to build up momentum and then let fly. For those who are interested in a more primitive way of hunting, the biblical slingshot is worth a look. Keep in mind though, that it requires much more skill than the modern sling shot, does not allow for a quick follow up shot, and is not as quiet.

In the end, anybody that walks into the woods should have multiple means of procuring food. Relying on only one method to catch and kill game is a recipe for hunger. The tragic fact of the matter is that most hikers rarely if ever think about what they will need if things go wrong and they find themselves hungry, cold, and tired in the middle of nowhere. A few lightweight items in the bottom of their day pack can mean all the difference. In that regard, a slingshot can be justified as a necessary survival item.



Dear JWR,
On March 14th at 2 a.m. it is the Daylight Saving Time change time in most of the US. So now is a very good time to check some things that you haven't thought about in a while. I'm sure you heard the Public Service Announcements to change the batteries in your smoke alarm and to test them. That is certainly a good thing to do, but is that the only thing you should do this time of year? Grab a pen and paper and let's look around your home.

Batteries and Battery Powered Equipment
Since you're changing some batteries already, this is also a great time to check the batteries in your flashlights, radios, and other battery powered equipment around your home and cars. Turn them on and see if they still work and if you still know how to use them.

First Aid Kit
Hopefully your first aid kit didn't see much use, but you need to check it for expired food and medications, put what needs replacement on your shopping list. If things have migrated to all parts of your home, bring them all back together into one central location. Update any contact information, medication changes or allergies in your document kit.

How Are Your Vehicles Doing?
You probably use your car every day but have you taken the time to really look at it recently?
Check your tire's pressure and look for signs of wear. Use a penny to check your tread depth, if you can see the top of Lincoln's head you need new tires. Look in the wheel wells for signs of rust.
Pop the hood and check the fluid levels and not just the oil and windshield washer but brake, steering and radiator. Look for leaks and worn belts.
Get a helper and make sure all the lights work.

What Did the Winter Do To Your Home?
How well has your house and property weathered the winter? You might want to start another page and call it the Honey Do list.
Check under sinks and around outside faucets for water leaks. Drain your hot water heater. Not only will this clear the buildup of mineral deposits and silt, it will make the hot water heater more efficient and give you more available hot water and faster too, but also more drinking water in case of an emergency.
Look around the foundation, driveway and sidewalks for cracks in the concrete.
Check your foundation, deck and fence for damage or rotting with a pocket knife, particularly around the base of posts. Small piles of sawdust indicate signs of vermin or insect intrusion.
Grab your binoculars and inspect your roof for missing shingles and flashing.
Test your lawn mower, generator and other gas powered equipment and their fuel.

Oh and don't forget to set you clocks the night before. "Spring forward, Fall back."





Paul D. recommended this article from The Guardian: How food and water are driving a 21st-century African land grab.

   o o o

From E.M.B.: Energizer Battery Charger Comes with a Software Backdoor. Yikes!

   o o o

There are now just three days left in the Ready Made Resources 25% off sale on Mountain House freeze dried foods in #10 cans. Th