Note from JWR: There are just two weeks left in Round 2 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best contest entry will win a four day course certificate at Front Sight. (An up to $2,000 value!) The deadline for entries is the last day of January, 2006.
Spices
The original use for spices was to take out the funky flavor from spoiled
food. As you remember, Columbus sailed in search of a shortcut to
these spice which were considered a treasure on par with gold and
jewels. Common sense will dictate how to stew, boil, or overcook
foods to a safe level. Spices and salt will make this still nourishing
food
edible. Of course spices will be a valuable barter item if international
trade is stopped.
Charcoal Medicine
Charcoal is a great first line treatment for loose stools. For example,
a slice of bread burned over flame until there is just a little gray
ash can be consumed along with copious amounts of water to wash it
down, this dose works for most non invasive diarrheas. Diarrhea was
formerly a major killer. An improvised treatment could save your
life from dehydration and
electrolyte imbalance.
The New Scientist magazine recently ran an interesting article about a "just in case of the worst case" backup stock of seeds stored in Norway. See: http://www.newscientist.com/article.ns?id=mg18925343.700
James,
Anyone considering using a generator and transfer switch should give the following
link a look: http://www.generlink.com.
It's an alternative to the most commonly used transfer switches and costs much
less.
When I called my power company about it they were not familiar with [this brand
of switches] but studied the info on it and approved it for installation, they
also
offered
to
install
it and said they would probably stock them for customers needing back-up power
supplies. Regards, - Keith
JWR -
Recently had a few realizations about magazines (the weakest link in
any semi-auto firearm):
Even though I regularly rotate my magazines, I have discovered that the
Glock G30 [compact .45
ACP] magazines have taken a set. [Their springs became weakened,
under compression.]
They are 10 round magazines, which I was only loading
to
9 rounds and rotating
every
30
days. While
I ALWAYS
download
magazines
to
preclude the maximum compression of the spring from overwhelming
the loading energy of the slide/bolt going forward, the extreme compactness
of
the G30 magazines is apparently more than the springs can take. I
have stretched all of them back out and now only load them to 8 rounds.
Now for the realization that really made me feel like a moron. G21
magazines work in the G30 frame. I was carrying two G30 magazines
with the pistol. If I had to draw and use the G30, then I have
no need/concern for
the compact concealment parameters of the G30 magazine upon reload.
Why not
carry the 2nd magazine as a G21 magazine? This way I don't have to
purchase so many G30 magazines to be able to rotate them (and only be
able to use
them
in one G30 pistol I have). This stretches the cycle time on the G30
magazines from once every months to once every 12 months. It also
gives more purchase for grip on the G21 magazine being used in the G30
frame.
Of course, the 10 round G21 magazines are only loaded to 9 rounds; 13
round magazines to 12 rounds.; M14 20
round magazines loaded to 18 rounds. When I had a mouse
gun, 28
rounds in a 30 round magazine. As I have been reading entries about
sidearms, the
capacities are always given for the magazines with no mention of
downloading them for better reliability and newbies might not know the
accepted rules
on this topic. - D.B.
JWR Replies: If heard from various "authorities" on the subject (in firearms trade publications) that magazine springs cannot "take a set." But from personal experience, I know that this can and does happen. YMMV, but my personal approach is to keep only 20% of my magazines fully loaded at any given time, but I rotate them once every four months. I unload them in the course of target practice. Thus, this also serves two extra purposes: 1.) It confirms that each and every magazine is functionally tested with live ammo, and 2.) It serves as an inducement to log regular "trigger time" out at the Back 40 at the Rawles Ranch. Practice, practice, practice...
Jim:
[In your article on Protecting
Your Family From an Influenza Pandemic]
you mention: "Stock up on Acetominophen (Tylenol) and Ibuprofen
(Motrin) as well - for treating fevers." Some of us know that
a mild fever is a good thing. [It is part of the] immune system response
to fighting the virus. Aspirin is a symptom treater
and can cause a virus to live longer in it's host. See: http://survivalmonkey.com/forum/a-fever-is-a-good-thing-to-a-point-vt1842.htm?highlight=fever
JWR Replies: Yes, a mild fever can be a good thing, but a high fever can cause complications. A high fever should definitely be knocked down quickly. Hence my advice on storing Acetominophen and Ibuprofen. Also, keep in mind that a fever can exacerbate dehydration when diarrhea is an issue. For details, see: http://www.SurvivalBlog.com/asianflu.html
"Certainly one of the chief guarantees of freedom under any
government, no matter how popular and respected, is the right of citizens
to keep and bear arms. This is not to say that firearms should not
be very carefully used, and that definite safety rules of precaution
should not be taught and enforced. But the right of citizens to bear
arms is just one more guarantee against arbitrary government, one more
safeguard against tyranny which now appears remote in America, but
which historically has proved to be always possible."
Senator Hubert H. Humphrey (D.) Minn. "Know Your Lawmakers" Guns
magazine, February, 1960, p. 4.
Note from JWR: If you know anyone that sells
preparedness-related good or services, please ask them to advertise
on SurvivalBlog. Thanks!
(Quoting the American
Forces Press Service, Jan 10, 2005, by Jim
Garamone) The Army will continue to improve body armor issued to
soldiers, and will begin
manufacturing side-panel inserts to the Interceptor ballistic armor (IBA),
officials said here today. The side panels, which weigh three pounds, will
be
made of the same material
as
the
small-arms protective inserts.
Army Col. Thomas Spoehr is in charge of fielding body armor. He said the Interceptor
body armor now issued to servicemembers protects against most of the threats
they
face in Iraq and Afghanistan today. "It's the best body
armor in the world," Spoehr said.
And the proof is in the number of people who are alive today because of the armor.
One documented account from June 2003 showed an Iraqi shooting a soldier at point-blank
range in the chest with a shotgun. The young soldier picked himself off the ground
and arrested the Iraqi.
The Army is making changes to the protection system, Spoehr said, but has to
be
careful to balance changes with mission. "You could outfit a soldier
from head to toe in armor, and he would be completely useless," he said. "We
have to be sensitive to the weight burden we put on soldiers in that arduous
environment
over there. Every ounce that we put on the back of a soldier could mean the difference
between their ability to accomplish the mission or not."
Weight is a huge factor, officials said. The average infantryman carries 85 pounds
of gear into battle, according to officials at the Infantry School at Fort Benning,
Ga. This includes weapons, ammunition, water, protective gear and so on. The
Interceptor
armor - the vest and Small Arms Protective Insert (SAPI)
plates,
along with neck and groin protection - weigh in at about 16 pounds.
But the improvements planned for the Interceptor armor will increase the weight.
Enhanced SAPI plates will add three pounds to the weight, and side-panel plates
another 3 pounds. Other shoulder and side protection adds five pounds. Wearing
all pieces
of the Interceptor armor could add about 27 pounds to soldiers' burden.
By comparison, the "flak vest" of Vietnam came in at about 25 pounds,
and the original flak vest worn by airmen during World War II weighed around
40 pounds, Air Force Museum officials said.
But in addition to weight, commanders have to look at constriction and how much
ability soldiers have to move their arms and legs and get in and out of vehicles
quickly, Spoehr said. "It's not as simple as going to a catalog
and ordering it," he said.
He said the commander has to control this factor. The body armor is modular,
and
commanders can assess the threat and how much armor soldiers should wear.
"We're going to be producing a new side-armor plate," Spoehr said. "If
the mission doesn't accommodate wearing that new side armor plate, then the commander
can direct, 'Don't wear that today.'"
For example, while the side armor adds 3 pounds, it does provide more protection. "We
want to give that type of an option to commanders," Spoehr
said.
Army officials said they continue to monitor all aspects of fielding the armor.
A check of the books revealed that 8,000 of the vests did not go through inspection,
Spoehr said. The Army recalled those vests on Nov. 12, 2005, and would not issue
them. No piece of armor will be issued to soldiers without undergoing a painstaking
inspection process, he emphasized.
Jim -
I guess I am thickheaded and missing something here. What difference
does a pre-1899 or a 80% finished firearm make? Are you trying to
tell me that the jackbooted thugs of the ATF will stop, examine the
rifle,
determine that it is legally not a firearm, and not steal/confiscate
it from you? Got it, no 4473/record of it, but neither is there one
between private individuals either, so why pay $120 for a pre '98
barreled receiver, when I can get a complete working Mauser for that?
I'm not trying to be ugly here - just really don't get it - got
any crayons to draw me pictures? - B.
JWR Replies: I wasn't talking about immunity from seizure.
Jackbooted
thugs exercising arbitrary enforcement power under color of law could
(and do) seize BB guns and kitchen knives if they feel
like it. Seizures still happen even when licenses and accurate legal
cites are waved right in the faces of ATF agents.
Rather, I'm talking about avoiding
PRISON.
Let me explain: The biggest advantage of pre-1899s
comes someday in the future, when
possessing any unregistered "firearm" becomes
a felony. Owning a pre-1899 "antique" (such as those sold
by The
Pre-1899
Specialist) could mean the difference
between going to prison for five years, or not. You
will have NO adequate defense in
court
if the"unregistered firearm" that is seized is modern--and hence inside
Federal jurisdiction. In contrast, you will have a nearly perfect defense
if
the gun is a
Federally exempt antique--and hence can be easily proven to be outside of
Federal jurisdiction. Unless our system of law totally fails, the
court will apologize and send you home, and you will get you gun back.
Case dismissed. That
is
a huge difference.
Even if there is just the outside chance that nationwide (Federal) gun registration will be enacted in our lifetimes, isn't it worth $100 to $200 dollars difference in purchase price for the opportunity to own one or two guns that you won't have to register or bury in PVC pipe, along with all of the rest? I consider that cheap insurance, when the alternative is a felony conviction, prison time, (and the stigma attached--including job hiring diminution), and forfeiture of your right to vote. Read through my Pre-1899 FAQ and ponder the possibilities.
Similarly, doing "home builds" with 80% complete receivers (such as those made by KT Ordnance) also has its advantages. Consider those readers in states (such as California and New Jersey) where mandatory registration of nearly all firearms is required, and private party transactions have been outlawed. They don't have a handy time machine to jump in and go buy a battery of modern firearms, back before their state laws changed. But they still have the chance, under current law, to legally obtain some modern firearms without any paperwork. Again, the advantage is staying within the law, and therefore creating immunity from prosecution. If your alternative is filling out a Form 4473, then build it yourself. Avoid the paperwork. Stay legal. And BTW, you will learn a lot about gunsmithing in the process. That is a valuable skill.
As I often say, there are three kinds of people in the world: The people that make things happen, the people that watch things happen, and the people that wonder "what the heck happened?" It is no wonder that the price of shootable pre-1899 cartridge guns is starting to ratchet upward. People that are "in the know" are gobbling them up, whenever they hit the market. (For example: Dennis Kroh, who operates Empire Arms has found that guns immediately sell out, every time that he catalogs anything pre-1899 that is chambered in a caliber that is still factory made.) By doing your homework, and not hesitating to stock up now, on things that are legal, and while they are sill affordable, you will be proactive rather than reactive. It is analogous to someone consulting a tax specialist and taking advantage of perfectly legal tax loopholes. There is a big difference between that and simply just "not filing" The later approach lands folks in prison.
Disclaimers: I'm not an attorney. Laws change frequently. They also vary widely from state to state. So do your research before purchasing a pre-1899 antique or before completing an 80% receiver. Also, keep in mind that none of the preceding applies to short barreled rifles (less than 16"), short barreled shotguns (less than 18"), machineguns, or so-called "destructive devices." These all fall under Federal taxing jurisdiction under current law, regardless of their origin or date of manufacture. (Yes, I know, there are a few exceptions such as short-barreled C&R Winchester "Trapper" short barreled rifles, but that requires scrupulous research and keeping documentation.)
James,
When I was in high school (in the early 1980s) I had no money and would
find tires for my car by the side of the road. If it said E78-14 on
the
side and had more tread than the worst tire on the car, it came home.
I could change a tire by breaking the bead using the bumper jack on
my Sister's Dodge Dart. Flip it over, break the other side. Remove
from the rim with a pair of tire spoons that my Father had, then repeat
in reverse to get the new tire on the rim. To seal the bead, put some
soapy water on the bead, then use a rope and a broom handle to put
a tourniquet around the tread, the tighten the rope. Once it's about
sealed, I could pump it up with a hand bicycle pump to seat the bead,
then check pressure. Took about a half hour, cost nothing. Best Regards,
- M.A. in Florida
This is in response to a letter from B.V. (posted 1/12/06) on Insulated
Concrete Forms (ICFs) and http://www.polysteel.com.
As I said in my 1/7/05 letter, the major shortfall of this type of
construction is the roof. Otherwise, this a good idea, in particular
to insulate the concrete wall from the elements so it acts as helpful
thermal mass for heating and cooling efficiency. Also, reinforced poured
concrete is far superior to block, just try drilling through each sometime.
There are several companies that make these systems. I happen like
the hanger system (for joists and trusses, etc.), and the system of
attachment for drywall and exterior siding of Nudra: http://www.nudura.com Still,
building a home or retreat this way still begs the question: Why invest
in walls that can sustain a hurricane or tornado and then
put on a conventional roof that can't? My personal favorite solution
to this problem is using a span-crete (pre-cast steel reinforced concrete)
to do the roof span, and then insulate over it with hard foam, then
put down a 60 mil rubber roof membrane, and then two feet of topsoil,
netted to hold it, and slightly pitched to drain. For added protection
and strength, pour a slab over the roof membrane of at least four inches,
and put the soil over that. [JWR Adds: Be sure to
consult with an architectural engineer to make sure that all of this
is done safely. Loads must be properly supported. "Dead" loads
can be deadly! Just ask Ken Kern--the alternative housing author who died
in the collapse of a rammed earth dome that was under construction.]
Here in the North, where we need to go down four feet to get the foundation
well below the frost line and thus have basements (might as well go
a little further). The temptation is thus to them make an earth shelter
or underground home this way, basement and main floor both buried.
The problem is the inward pressure on the flat vertical concrete walls
it too great. While such pressure is not large a factor on an 8 or
9 foot poured concrete basement wall, is certainly is for a 16 or 18
foot wall. My solution, and compromise, is to bury and berm just 10
to 12 feet of the wall (10 inches think) thus berming the first floor
of the house (above the basement) half way up to the lower ledge of
the windows. The space between the top of the berm and the roof line
is then conventionally insulted and sided (consider fire resistant
materials such as brick, stone, fiberboard, stucco, Masonite, steel,
stainless steel… http://architecture.about.com/od/buildyourhous1/tp/siding.htm ).
Your options for the roof are to wall it off and use it as a patio,
or for max insulation put some topsoil there as I said before. You
can put on gutters or some sort of little awning over the windows and
doors at least to handle channeling the run off. Snow load isn't even
a factor with how strong this roof is, nor is the concern of volcanic
or other fall-out that, particularly if it gets wet, will collapse
most conventional roofs. Small and simple rectangular ranch home designs
work well, but to really maximize the space I like having a split level
with partial exposure to the basement/lower level for two bedrooms
below and one bed above on a 28’ by 36’ footprint, or similar
size. The exterior door is then above the berm height, as well. This
design will give your home or retreat an amazingly strong design and
a reasonably
conventional look to it. Note you can attach a hardened garage on to
this, and even put a “stealth retreat” under the garage.
Sound familiar? [See the SurvivalBlog
Archives.] - Rourke http://groups.yahoo.com/group/survivalretreat
"A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species
of exercises, I advise the gun. This gives exercise to the body, it
gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind. Games played
with the ball are too violent for the body and stamp no moral character
on the mind. Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your
walk."
-Thomas Jefferson
Today we present another entry for Round 2 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. This one is excellent. Don't just read this article, folks. Implement it!
The writer of the best contest entry will win a four day course certificate at Front Sight. (An up to $2,000 value!) The deadline for entries is the last day of January, 2006.
Overview
After the Katrina fiasco, a lot of my friends started to get interested
in preparedness. Having some experience as an EMT and SAR volunteer,
I decided to take the initiative and organize a group buy on medical
supplies. This article is intended to help others who would like to
put together low-cost, practical medical kits, particularly for a group.
For the short version, skip down to The Kit: Part I. Otherwise,
read on.
Background
For any kind of preparedness project, it's best to have a set of goals
in mind at the outset. The goals I came up with were to build a kit
that:
1. Is simple to use by lay people, with a maximum chance of helping
in a crisis and a minimum chance of causing harm.
2. Contains supplies for 2-3 people to take care of themselves for
1 week in the event of a crisis (earthquake, weather emergency, flu,
etc) or for one major incident (car accident, work injury).
3. Useful for the same 2-3 people during an average year of minor cuts,
scrapes, and illnesses. Useful as a stand-alone kit or a module in
a larger cache.
4. Easy to obtain and replenish (no exotic meds or perishable items)
5. Compact and easy to store (1 gallon Ziploc).
6. The last, and most difficult: the kit must cost around $20.
Based on experience, I felt that it would be unrealistic to expect
friends and neighbors to spend $1,000 on a full-blown medic bag suitable
for an expedition to Mt. Kenya, or to spend 100+ hours in EMT training.
Someone who is dedicated can get to this level of preparedness, but
those supplies do no good if they are locked up in your basement and
not out where the hurt or sick people are.
If you happen to be the sick person or away from your cache of gear,
the same rule applies.
So let's start with the assumption that our friends are be willing
to put $20 towards their own safety and maintain something that fits
inside of a 1 gallon Ziploc. If copies of that kit are distributed
to all of your friends, neighbors, family, deer hunting buddies, etc
then there is a better chance that:
1. They will be able to take care of their immediate needs during the
first critical hours of a disaster.
2. They will be there to help you.
3. As a group, you will collectively have enough supplies to stabilize
someone who is really seriously hurt.
The Kit Part I - what do we really
need?
A lot of papers have been written on the subject of first aid kits
and what they should contain. What we're most interested in is being
able to carry out a few basic interventions that can treat the small
problems and buy us time to get to a real doctor for the big ones.
So what can we reasonably do? A complete discussion of first aid measures
could easily fill a book, but let’s keep it simple.
The basic things needed for a person to live are the ABCs:
Airway
Breathing
Circulation
Any major interruption to the above, and you're basically done for
without immediate intervention. Going down the line, we have other
common problems that can threaten our survival:
Shock
Hypothermia
Dehydration
Fever
Infection
Major Injury
We also have a number of minor problems that can become major ones
if we ignore them. A sprained ankle may keep you from being able to
evacuate. A minor cut can lead to sepsis when you're in a dirty environment.
Diarrhea is annoying, but can kill you if it goes on for longer than
a couple of days.
For the kit to be worthwhile, every item should be able to help us
solve these problems, and preferably have multiple uses.
After substantial research, the kit listed below was settled on as
being a good compromise in terms of usefulness and cost. The supplies
are grouped by categories.
Personal protection
(1) 2oz Bottle, hand sanitizer
(4) Exam gloves, Nitrile
(1) CPR shield
Instruments
(1) Splinter forceps, pair
(1) EMT shears, pair
(2) Disposable fever thermometers
(1) Razor blade
Bandaging:
(20) 1" Band-aids, cloth
(2) Roll, 4.5" Kling gauze
(1) Small roll, medical tape
(4) 4x4" gauze bandages
(1) Triangular bandage
(1) Ace elastic bandage, 3"
(10) Steri-strips, 1/4x1.5"
(2) Tincture of benzoin swabs
(2) Instant Cold Packs
Medications:
(6) Packets, triple antibiotic ointment
(20) Benadryl tablets
(20) Ibuprofen tablets
(18) Imodium tablets
(15) Aspirin
Other:
(4) Plastic vials, 2 dram capacity
(1) Bag, 1 gallon Ziploc freezer-type
The Kit Part II - What can we do with these supplies?
Here is a brief explanation of each group of items and what it might
one day do for you.
Personal protection - These items are there to help keep you, the rescuer
from getting a disease or worse from someone you are trying to help.
Gloves are a good precaution whenever bodily fluids (blood, vomit,
etc) must be handled. The more expensive Nitrile gloves are better,
as some people are allergic to latex. They are also more sturdy.
A CPR shield is a must-have if you ever expect to perform CPR or rescue
breathing - it could mean the difference between helping someone without
hesitation and not being willing to risk it. Don't spend a lot of money
here, as it's also one of the least-used items and the reusable models
can be harder to use without practice.
Hand sanitizer is always useful. Ask any nurse about the importance
of washing up. The alcohol-based gel is not as good, but the best you
can get when the hot, soapy stuff is unavailable.
Instruments - Being
able to dig a splinter out, cut away clothes, or take vital signs,
is one heck of a lot easier with some basic tools. EMT shears are inexpensive,
heavy-duty scissors that can even cut through a penny. These, along
with the other items will find many uses to an imaginative person.
The forceps (tweezers) can also be used to get the cotton out of the
pill bottles.
Bandaging - Bandages are used to stop bleeding and
protect wounds. An assortment of cloth band-aids can help you deal
with minor injuries,
while the larger gauze pads and rolls can help with bigger lacerations
(cuts) and abrasions. An Ace bandage can be used to treat a sprain,
hold a makeshift splint onto a leg, or wrap up a severely bleeding
wound that requires pressure. An additional item that might be added
is one or more sanitary napkins. Aside from their feminine use, they
are excellent for soaking up blood on large injuries.
For major cuts, steri-strips are a way of closing up the skin without
needing special equipment and training. Think of these as "band-aids
on steroids." They are thin tape strips, 1/4" or so wide
and 3-4" long, coated with a super-aggressive adhesive and reinforced
with cloth fibers. After thoroughly cleaning a wound (a hole poked
in the Ziploc can allow you to squirt clean water deep inside), the
steri-strips are applied much like sutures (stitches), across the wound
to close the edges up.
Tincture of Benzoin (a sticky disinfectant swabbed on wounds) will
make the steri-strips stick better. Properly applied, they will stay
on for up to 2 weeks, even with showers. Don't waste your money on
butterfly bandages - these are far superior.
Medications - These are
inexpensive drugs that can be bought (at least in the U.S.) without
a prescription.
Antibiotic ointment (i.e. Neosporin) should be applied to cuts to
reduce the chance of infection, particularly in dirty environments.
Benadryl (Diphenhydramine) is an antihistamine (anti-allergy) medication
that can help treat cold and flu symptoms (runny nose, congestion),
make allergies less severe, and aid sleep. (Many OTC sleeping
pills contain Diphenhydramine.)
In addition, taking Benadryl early could help save your
life if you suffer anaphylactic shock (i.e. a severe allergic reaction,
such as
from a bee sting
Ibuprofen is a pain reliever, anti-inflammatory and fever reducer.
In a survival situation, being able to carry out important tasks
without the pain from a headache or sports injury could be critical,
as could
reducing a life-threatening fever.
Aspirin is also a pain reliever, and has fever reducing effects,
although Aspirin should never be administered to children with fevers,
due to
the possibility of a life-threatening complication known as Reye's
syndrome. Aspirin is also often given at the first signs of a heart
attack in many EMS protocols.
Imodium (Loperamide) is the last OTC drug included, and it is used
to control diarrhea. Diarrhea can interfere with your ability to
perform tasks, but it can also be life threatening if it causes dehydration.
A 2-3 day course could be life saving in an emergency.
With any medication, it is important that the full instructions be
included in your kit. Make photocopies of the drug labels and warnings,
and include with your other documentation. Be sure to write down
the drug expiration dates as well.
All of these meds should be good for at least 1 year after purchase,
but check first.
Plastic dram vials are good for packaging drugs purchased in bulk.
Add a small amount of cotton if you need to protect the pills from
being crushed by vibration and shaking. And don't forget to print
labels for each bottle.
In addition to the four above, you might want to pack an extra vial
for your personal medications.
The Kit Part III - Being a savvy shopper!
Assembling all of this and keeping the price under $20 is difficult
unless you buy in bulk.
From our research, we found that Costco had hands-down the best prices
on medications. You will need to buy the large, bulk bottles and repackage
them.
For bandages and related first-aid supplies, buy quantities mail-order
from an EMS or medical company such as Emergency Medical Products.
Many supplies are available locally. Wal-Mart often has 2oz bottles
of hand sanitizer for U.S.$0.99. The plastic vials can be purchased in
packs of 25 or 100 from several eBay vendors. The razor blades can
be had in 100-packs at any hardware store.
Some of the "Big Lots" type discount stores also have first
aid supplies. I recently found 2-packs of Ace bandages for U.S.$0.99.
But be wary of buying medications at these places, as you may find
that they are
close to their expiration dates.
Conclusion - Putting it all together
Once you have orders from all of your group members (20-25 kits seems
to work out well on quantities for the first order) and you've received
your supplies, you'll need to pack them. I've found that the best
way to do this is to have each group member come and pack
their own
kit. This way, everyone will be familiar with the contents and will
know where everything is.
The first time you do this, you will probably lose money, owing to
the odd quantities that some products must be purchased in, and occasional
hidden tax or shipping charges. Think of it as a charity (or charge
a bit more than you think you need to up front!)
And remember, the best survival kit is the on you keep inside your
head, in the form of training. Go sign up for Red Cross First Aid/CPR
training, take a First Responder, Wilderness First Responder (WFR),
or EMT class. Read books, or take on-line lessons. There are several
excellent, free resources
on-line.
Appendix I:
Spreadsheet with kit contents. Includes a worksheet help figure out
quantities to order, total cost, etc.
http://23.org/~arclight/firstaid/medical_kit_worksheet.xls
Sample Avery labels (Avery #8257) for pill bottles.
http://23.org/~arclight/firstaid/drug_labels.doc
Appendix II:
Optional Items:
Rehydration Mix
If you should come down with severe diarrhea, you can die from dehydration
and loss of electrolytes. Stocking some Pedialyte, Gatorade (dilute
to 50% with water) or the homemade equivalent could be a life
saver. The basic recipe is 1 teaspoon (5ml) salt, 8 teaspoons sugar
and
1 liter of water.
SAM Splint (or imitation)
These are very versatile split devices, which consist of thin
aluminum on a foam backing. You can bend and use as-is, for splint
arms,
wrists, legs, etc or cut up with your EMT shears to make finger
splints.
N95 HEPA Masks
If you're worried about airborne pathogens, this is a good thing
to have. Most hardware stores sell masks with an N95 or higher
rating, and small, collapsible masks are available from medical
outlets.
Upgraded CPR Mask
The $1, disposable shield will serve, but a better shield, with
a one-way valve will make things easier. The CPR Microshield from
MDI
is good
compromise, as it is superior to the thin plastic shield, has a
one-way valve, and comes on a keychain.
Suction
Keeping the airway clear is critically important when someone has
experienced trauma or is severely ill. Commercial suction devices
are available,
but a cheap, improvised solution is a standard turkey baster. For
less than $2, this could be a useful addition to a kit.
Thin Sharpie Marker and paper
Useful for recording vital signs. (You do have a watch, right?)
With a Sharpie marker, you can also write the numbers on the patient's
hand, so that there is no chance of the paper being lost during
transport/evacuation.
Better Packaging
The 1-gallon Ziploc bag was chosen as the least costly option for
getting the kit out there. You will probably want to find a better
container
to package it in if you expect it to last in a vehicle or other
harsh environment. The basic kit can fit into a 30 caliber ammo
can, a small Pelican box (1300 series or larger) or a soft bag. Harbor
Freight offers
a low-cost
canvas or nylon bag that will neatly hold the kit. Check out items
#40727-3VG, item #38167-0VGA, and item #32282-7VGA
If you really want a top-of-the-line, well organized packaging
system, look at the compartment cases from L.A. Rescue, Outdoor
Research,
or Atwater-Carey. A search through most EMS catalogs, or a Google
inquiry
should turn these up.
Useful Web Sites:
Wilderness Emergency Medicine Services Institute (WEMSI)
Lots of good materials, including the full text of their training
manuals
http://www.wemsi.org/
Where there is No Doctor (Now available on-line)
http://www.healthwrights.org/books/WTINDonline.htm
Free First Aid Guide (From SciVolutions, a medical manufacturer)
http://www.firstaidguide.net/
Emergency Medical Products
Sells a full line of EMS supplies
http://www.buyemp.com
Allegro Medical
Generic Medical catalog, offer smaller quantities of similar
items
http://www.allegromedical.comBooks
Wilderness Medicine (Great reference, previously recommended
here on SurvivalBlog.com)
Paul W. Auerbach
(1,910 pages, hardcover)
ISBN: 0323009506
98.6 Degrees: The Art of Keeping Your Ass Alive
Cody Lundin
(240 pages, soft cover)
ISBN:1586852345
JWR:
As to your post on "Survival Gun Selection" in reference to having
spare parts. If you have one or two of the same "tool" and have spare
parts, it would be best to check that the spare parts fit. Make sure they both
fit and function. It would be best to do your fitting beforehand whenever possible.
Richard, KT
Ordnance
JWR Replies: If any of you readers have not yet visited the KT Ordnance web site, then you should. Richard sells gunsmithing goodies with an interesting angle: He makes 80% finished rifle and pistol receivers, as well as jigs, tools, and instructional DVDs that detail how to complete the receivers. Under the Federal law, these are NOT considered "firearms", and can be completed as semi-autos by private individuals for their personal use WITHOUT completing a Form 4473! (Consult your state and local laws before ordering.) OBTW, Richard is currently running a special 10% off of all orders (all 80% complete frames, not just Model 1911s-but excluding jigs), just for SurvivalBlog readers. Check it out!
Note from JWR: Posting all five of the following letters is probably over kill, but I'm doing so to illustrate the power of the collected wisdom represented on this blog! You folks really know your stuff.
Dear James and all concerned,
I believe that a safer and more efficient way [than the backfeed rig
suggested by Monty is] to power a home via generator is to build a cord much
the same
way as was previously
posted, but instead of having a male plug on both ends, ( which is extremely
dangerous and also requires more wire to reach the outlet) Simply
connect an appropriate breaker. For example I currently run a Thermadyne
10000 watt Welder/Generator which I can set beside my meter panel,
open the lid and turn the main breaker ( usually a 200 amp in most
new residential homes) off, and then remove the inner cover enabling
you to insert your new breaker. Then simply attach your ground wire
to your grounding bar, and power up both legs of your panel. Again
use common sense and caution. When the generator is running the copper
bars in your panel will have plenty of energy to do serious damage
to you or anything else that touches them. I like this system (although
both will work) because all of your "switches" are right
there reducing confusion. Thanks for a great site. - J. , Somewhere
in Montana
James:
WARNING: If the local utility company's meter reader sees
that you have made provisions to hook your generator directly
into the panel WITHOUT AN APPROVED TRANSFER SWITCH, you will quickly
find yourself without power from the local electric company and probably
cut off from the grid forever and probably the local building department
will declare your home unsuitable for occupancy. If you have back fed
into the system and some one has been hurt or killed due to your irresponsible
actions, you will face civil suit and will probably spent several years
in jail for you action. The bottom-line is: spend the $$$ and have
a transfer switch installed. - D.O.
James,
[The backfeed rig suggested by Monty is] a bit unsafe and a problem if
others in the family do not know the procedure!!!
I wired my son's house like this.
1. Mount another panel on your panel board.
2. Select circuits for emergency power. (in his case -12)
3. Mount 4 - gang junction boxes on panel board.
4. Run a wire from each "selected" circuit to the common arm of a
3-way switch mounted
in the junction boxes.
5. One remaining side of each switch goes back to the Main Panel breaker and
the other
goes to the Emergency Panel breaker.
6. Start the genny and then go to the 3 - way switches and flip each one.
I priced this method against a 100 amp transfer switch and this was much cheaper.
Hope this will be of interest to someone. - South Jersey boy
Jim:
Be advised that this scheme [the backfeed rig suggested by Monty is]
is illegal many places, the electrical code does not allow it, and,
at least in my area, valid reason for
the power company to discontinue your service - permanently. The
reasons being, it is too easy to forget something. It's dangerous
for you and people in your house, as you'll have live bare lugs sticking
out of the male plug, which are easy to touch. It's dangerous for
the generator, when the power is restored. And it's dangerous for
the linemen and your neighbors, who may be counting on those downed
power lines being DEAD. Electrocute a lineman, and you will be visited
by several of his large, muscular, and very irate workmates. You
will not come out the winner in this encounter,
I assure you. - Irv
Jim:
I have installed several relatively inexpensive transfer switches made
by Reliance Controls http://www.reliancecontrols.com/ The most recent
was a 100 amp unit in outdoor enclosure that cost me only $149. They
have several configurations; one I used was two interlocked 100 amp
breakers and a COPPER buss rather than the less expensive but poorer
choice aluminum. They are also available with different sized breakers,
such as 150 amp normal and 30 amp generator, reducing cost. I strongly
suggest that something like this be considered to reduce the risks
associated with the backfeed scheme! - M.G.
"Liberty is lost through complacency and a subservient mindset. When we accept or even welcome automobile checkpoints, random searches, mandatory identification cards, and paramilitary police in our streets, we have lost a vital part of our American heritage. America was born of protest, revolution, and mistrust of government. Subservient societies neither maintain nor deserve freedom for long." - Congressman Ron Paul, August 9, 2004
Note From JWR: If you enjoy reading this blog and you have have your own web site, then please establish a link to our site. Doing so will help promote the blog--both directly and by raising it in search engine rankings. (The search engines give the greatest ranking weight to sites that are heavily cross-linked by other sites.) We will be happy to reciprocate, at our Links page. Thanks!
When doing some recent web research, I ran across three very interesting
commentaries posted by the fine folks at at Gold-Eagle.com.
The first
was by Peter Degraaf. See: http://www.gold-eagle.com/editorials_05/degraaf010806.html
The second was by Emanuel Balarie on The Real Estate Bubble. See: http://www.gold-eagle.com/editorials_05/balarie011006.html
The third was by Kevin DeMeritt, the president of Lear Financial, titled: "Greater Fools, Stocks, Real Estate and Gold."See: http://www.gold-eagle.com/editorials_05/demeritt010906.html
James,
Have been reading your Blog on Dome Homes. Was wondering if you have
considered/ reviewed Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs). They appear
to have several uses, good thermal factor, ballistic protection, and
they
look fairly do it yourself. See: http://www.polysteel.com.
Can you comment on these? - B.V.
JWR Replies: ICF is an excellent construction method. ICF houses are very well insulated and offer above average ballistic protection. There are several competing makers, of whom PolySteel is the best known. See the Survival Blog Archives for previous discussions on this topic.
I am a newbie to your blog, also to blogs in general. Awesome job!!!
You can power your home with a generator easily and Safely as follows:
If your home has a electric dryer and your generator output is less
than
30 amps (i.e. Coleman 5000 Watts = 20 amps) Kill your main inbound
voltage, main breaker/ disconnect et cetera.Use a male twist lock NEMA
plug
that fits the outlet from the generator,
use appropriate cable (10/3 S.O. cord) size it to the amperage output
of
the generator (10 AWG / 30 amps) for short lengths. Use a male
dryer plug. You are backfeeding the house panel this way. Control the
outlets needing power with the breaker panel. i.e. kitchen
refrigerator,
removing all the
sucker loads i.e.VCR, DVD player et cetera. If utility power is restored
nothing will be harmed, (generator or linemen working in the area),
because you are disconnected by the
main breaker
or disconnect. Cost is less than $75.00 Larger amperages would use
the electric stove outlet--they are good for 50 amps. Securing the
generator is another story. - Monty
JWR Adds: Use extreme caution when using this method. (It is indeed a sound method for use in an emergency, but it is not a proper substitute for a proper transfer breaker panel It requires thought before action.) When the grid comes back up: Remember to shut down the generator first, then unplug your back feed rig, and finally switch back to utility power. Keep in mind that the backfeed rig has exposed (male) prongs that are energized ("hot"), so the rig should be completely disconnected from your generator when you run it for any other purpose.
Hi,
I am no tire expert, but I always have a tire repair kit on hand with self
vulcanizing plugs. I have put these in my radial tires and driven thousands
of miles with them. They work with any tubeless tire (even small tractors,
etc) and I have never had one fail on me yet. They work for punctures such
as nails, thorns, etc. For tears or rips it's either a new tire or a larger
internal patch. These plugs will work on the side wall too, but tend to fail
after a while. It is better to replace that tire but they can be used in a
pinch.
There are three parts to the kit.
1. A tool to debride the injury
2. a tool to insert the plug
3. The plug itself.
All you do is find the hole by inflating and running soapy water around the
tire until bubbles appear around the injury. Remove the object that caused
the hole if it is still there, noting the direction of entry. Then insert the
debriding tool into the injury and push it in and out to clean the wound and
remove any debris. Once that is done you load the plug into the insertion tool,
push it into the opening until only about 1/2 inch or so remains and then twist
the tool about 1/2 turn and slowly remove the tool. Cut off any excess patch
protruding, then inflate the tire and use it as normal. As I said, I have used
tires repaired in this manner for thousands of miles with no trouble at all.
I have not noticed any balance issues afterwards either so that does no appear
to be a big issue.
See:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl028a.htm
http://performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_tools/tirerepair.html
(This one is a bit pricey but the only image I could find right away. I got
mine at the local auto supply place for something like $10-to-$15.) Regards,
- Tim P.
Good Evening James,
I have been overwhelmed as of late with all of the valuable reads you
and the following have provided. It must make you smile when you sit
back and track
the progress since August! On Tire Repair: I have been faced with several "less
than desirable" locations
to have a tire come off of a Garden Tractor, Skid Loader, One Ton Truck, or
ATV
or even your wheel barrel. If you are wanting to polish up on, or obtain the
tricks of the trade in DIY tire
repair, hang around a farm coop, or off road tire repair service. I have learned
a few tricks, please understand dealing
with tires can be very dangerous. Give them the maintenance they deserve!
If your tire becomes flat, or comes partially off the rim, (notorious
with wheel type loaders/tractors), do your best to get the weight off of the
tire
with your jack, or build a ramp of some sort. Getting the tire "unstressed" ASAP
will aid in the down time of your repair. The memory of the mold will soon
kick in and as long as you have not driven a country mile with it flat, should
result in quick repair.
Once past the problem of getting the tire back on the rim, you come to the
obstacle of getting the tire to seal on the bead, or rim. If at all possible,
clean the inside of the rim with rags, or even your clothing. Without a clean
surface to seal to, your efforts and resources will triple in getting satisfactory
results.
Now you have to weigh the available resources in attacking your repair. One
would hope that an air compressor is available. If not, I hope that you have
a can or three of Fix-a-Flat type repair. The small compressor and cigarette
adaptor
recently spoke of should be a staple in your trunk. [JWR Adds: I
prefer the slightly larger ones, that come with a two gallon tank.] The
problem is that most compressors do not deliver enough CFM to
expand the tire onto the rim. There are three options hat I am aware of.
1). Have a modified "air pig" with a oversize outlet tube, (i.e.-
1" or
larger with a flat oblong end). Fill the tank up to as high as safe and flip
the ball valve thus expending the contents of the tank in the matter of a split
second. This, carefully aimed at the edge of the rim and tire will result in
a freshly sealed/beaded tire.
2). Second option is to gather ratchet strap type ratchets and surround the
tire making sure that the strap is in the same spot on the tire all the way
around and is not twisted. Cinch up the slack and apply several "power
strokes" to the ratchet to squish the tire to the bead/rim. Once done,
proceed with filling it with air. Remember that once air is trapped and bead
is sealed, release the straps. Skid Loader and Tractor Tires are very very
tough.
I have
found that twin 2" 10,000# tie down straps work best. They are supple
and very strong. It takes one at each edge of the tire directly in line with
the rim. The goal is not to smash the tire, it is to squish the tire--not making
the surface convex, if possible.
3). [An unsafe method mentioned here was deleted, for liability reasons.]
I just had a flat on my ATV. It needed a bottle of Slime to get me back in
business. However, Slime is useless if you do not have the valve stem removal
tool that
comes with it. Get a few spares, put them in the tool box! - The Wanderer
JWR Adds: Readers should use extreme caution when working with split-rim type wheels! Do some web research first. Ignorance is a killer around high pressure.
I am thankful you started the Survival Blog in August of 2005. I firmly believe we must support those who educate and advocate what is correct and true. People purchase newspapers and magazines, donate to others asking for different organizations on the side of the road. We give. I would like to appeal to all of the other readers out there. Please be honest with yourselves. If you come to this site at least once a month, and find the material of interest, motivational, compelling, as well as a resource full of other sites to cross-reference to, if this site has enriched your present/future plan, please join us and keep this in mind: Today we stand, we watch, we pray. It takes action to make things happen. Notice all the words used in the first sentence requires action. Please join in and help with the daily 10 cent pledge. I thank you and pray that all those who read SurvivalBlog will step up to the plate and contribute so they can also stand united in principle and ethics (sincere - truth- accountable - forthright.) - E. & L. Guerra, Warriors for the Truth
JWR Replies: Thanks for you kind letter. We've now had 48 readers send 10 Cent Challenge donations. You folks know who you are. All that I can say is MANY THANKS!
"We are fast approaching the stage of the ultimate inversion: the stage where the government is free to do anything it pleases, while the citizens may act only by permission; which is the stage of the darkest periods of human history, the stage of rule by brute force." - Ayn Rand
Note from JWR: Please continue to spread the word about SurvivalBlog. God willing, it will get people motivated. Every neighbor that is prepared logistically will be one less individual begging at your door, come TEOTWAWKI+1.
In my survivalist novel "Patriots", I included lots of descriptions of firearms used in various situations in order to illustrate that there is no single "perfect survival gun." Different situations are best handled by using different firearms. There are several requirements that must be considered in selecting guns for use on a farm, ranch, or survival retreat. First, and foremost, they must be versatile. A single gun might be pressed into service for shooting crows or starlings at 10 yards, rabbits or coyotes at 100 yards, or rattlesnakes at five feet. While there is no single gun that can handle any task, it is important to select guns with at least some degree of versatility. Further, it is not realistic to believe that you can get by with just one gun, or even just one rifle, one pistol, and one shotgun. Versatility has its limits. Like a carpenter's box of tools, each type of gun has its special place and purpose.
The second
major consideration for survival guns is that they be robust and
reliable enough to put up with constant carry and regular use. Good
designs not prone to mechanical failures are a plus. When an infrequent
repair must be made, a small stock of spare parts that do not
require special gunsmithing to install must suffice. When the nearest
gunsmith is a two hour drive away, you have to depend on your own
resources. And needless to say, who knows which replacement parts will
be available
when things get Schumeresque?
Since they are carried quite frequently and in all sorts of weather,
farm/ranch/survival guns need to
have durable finishes. Stainless steel is by far the best choice
for most situations. Unfortunately, however, not all guns are
available in stainless steel. For guns that only made with a blued
finish, there are several alternative finishes available. These include
Parkerizing (the military standard gray or black phosphate finish commonly
seen on M16 and AR-15 rifles),
and various other factory finishes with
trade names such as "Coltalloy" or "Armour Alloy." In
addition to gun factory finishes, a wide range of exotic materials
such as Teflon and Zylan are now frequently used as "after-market" gun
finishes. The Robar Company uses a nickel/Teflon composite.
My personal favorite of the exotic finishes is called METACOL (METAl COLor),
which is offered in a wide variety of colors by Arizona Response Systems
(http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com)
Exotic material finishes offer rust protection that is exceeded only
by stainless
steel and
are quite durable. For
those
that
dislike the highly reflective surface of stainless steel, it too
can be coated with one of the exotic materials such as green Teflon
with
a matte texture.
Because trips to town to procure ammunition might be infrequent (or impossible in a severe survival scenario), and reloading will likely be the norm for those seeking self-sufficiency, it is desirable to limit the number of different cartridges that you stock. Having ten different guns chambered in ten different cartridges would only serve to complicate logistics. Further, it is best to select only guns chambered for commonly-available cartridges. Small country stores stock ammo like .22 Long Rifle, .308 Winchester, .30-'06, or 12 gauge, but probably not .264 Winchester magnum, .300 Weatherby, or 28 gauge.
Small Game
There are several categories of firearms that belong in the gun racks of nearly every farm or ranch. The first, and most frequently used variety are small game/pest shooting guns. These guns are used to hunt small game for the pot (squirrels, rabbits, etc.), to shoot garden pests (crows, starlings, gophers, etc.), and marauding predators (coyotes, foxes, weasels, ferrets, etc.) They also end up being the guns most frequently used to slaughter livestock. Good cartridges for small game/pest shooting include .22 Long Rifle (.22 LR), and .223 Remington. The most common shotshells for this use are .410, 20 gauge, and 12 gauge. The .22 LR will suffice for everything up to the size of rabbits at conservative distances. It is inexpensive to shoot, quiet, and has hardly any felt recoil. The .223 Remington (virtually identical to and in most cases interchangeable with the 5.56mm NATO cartridge used by the military) is a good cartridge for shooting perched birds that would be out of range for a .22 rimfire, or for shooting feral dogs, feral cats, or coyotes. Experience has shown that both handguns and long guns are needed for small game/pest shooting. A long gun would of course be the ideal choice in most circumstances, due to their inherently higher velocity and longer sighting radius (and hence greater accuracy). There are times, however, when it is not practical to carry a long gun. When mending fences, feeding livestock, hauling wood, riding a tractor, or doing most gardening work, it is usually not practical to carry a long gun. On farms and ranches, long guns tend to be left behind inside buildings, or in vehicle gun racks. They are only rarely carried when doing chores or just walking down to the mailbox at the county road. This is where handguns come in.
Rimfire Handguns
A good quality .22 rimfire pistol may be one of the most useful handguns in your battery. They are used for dispatching those "uncatchable" chickens for the stew pot, for shooting small game/pests, and for inexpensively maintaining marksmanship skills for those more powerful (and more expensive to shoot) handguns. My wife and I use a stainless steel Ruger Mark II with a 5-1/2-inch bull barrel and Pachmayr grips. The Ruger is also offered in 6-7/8-inch and 10-5/8-inch barrel lengths. But we find that the 5-1/2-inch barrel is a handy length for holster carry. Another well-made stainless steel .22 autopistol is the Smith and Wesson Model 622. It is available with a 4-1/2 inch or 6-inch barrel. If you prefer a revolver, the stainless steel Smith and Wesson Model 617 is a good option. It is available in a 4-inch, 6-inch, or 8-3/8-inch barrel length.
Rifles chambered in .22 LR are often used guns on farms and ranches. They are useful for pest shooting, small game hunting, and target practice. Reliable, American-made semi-auto .22s include the Ruger Model 10/.22 (also available in stainless), the Marlin 70-P "Papoose", the Remington Speedmaster Model 552, and the discontinued Remington Nylon 66. If a bolt action is your preference, either the Kimber Model 82 or the Ruger 77/.22 are good choices. Two good quality lever action .22s are the Marlin 39TDS and the Winchester 9422. Regardless of which brand of .22 rifle you buy, you should consider mounting it with a telescopic sight. Because of its low energy, proper placement of a .22 rimfire bullet can mean the difference between crippling and cleanly killing small game. Mounting a scope will in most instances give you the ability to not just hit an animal's center of mass, but rather hit a precise aiming point, such as its head or neck. If you do decide to mount a scope, use a full size (1-inch diameter) scope rather than one the inexpensive 3/4-inch diameter scopes made specifically for air rifles and .22s. Inexpensive scopes generally have a poor field of view, considerable parallax distortion, and are not as ruggedly made as the full-size rifle scopes. For training youngsters, I recommend the diminutive Chipmunk .22 LR single shot bolt action, with a 16" barrel.
Centerfire Handguns
If you are seeking a particularly versatile handgun, you might consider the Thompson/Center T/C Contender. This single shot pistol uses readily-changeable barrels in a wide range of chamberings. The Contender is available in both blued and stainless steel. It was also formerly offered in a proprietary alloy finish called "Armour Alloy II". Some of the most useful of the 20-plus chamberings are .22 LR, .223 Remington, and the .45 Colt/.410 shotgun barrel.
The handguns in our battery that we traditionally carried the most was our pair of Smith and Wesson Model 686 .357 magnum revolvers. Both were black Teflon coated (a short-lived S&W factory variant dubbed "Midnight Black"), with 6-inch barrels and equipped with Pachmayr Signature grips, and red ramp/white outline adjustable sights. The six inch barrel length is a compromise between ease of carry and accuracy/velocity. While an 8-3/8-inch barrel would provide better accuracy and velocity, without using a shoulder holster, a gun with this barrel length is not comfortable to carry. We typically carried those revolvers in inexpensive black nylon Michaels of Oregon ("Uncle Mike's" brand) black nylon hip holster rigs, each with pouches for four spare Safariland speed loaders. Our habit was to have two speed loaders loaded with .357 magnum 125-grain half-jacketed hollow points, one with CCI #9 birdshot "snake" loads, and one with .38 Special tracers (for shooting in low-light conditions). These revolvers accounted for numerous snakes, rabbits, and even a couple of coyotes, not because they were the best guns for the job, but rather because they were the guns we habitually carried and thus they were available when needed. These guns also pack a punch, so they allayed our fears of dangerous predators, whether of the two-legged or four-legged variety. In addition to the Smith and Wesson, good quality stainless steel double action .357 revolvers are made by Colt (the King Cobra and Python) and Ruger (the GP-100).
We now carry Colt Stainless Steel Gold Cup
(Model 1911 pattern) .45 ACPs
with Pachmayr grips, extended slide releases, and Trijicon tritium-lit
sights. One thing that we missed about the
.357s
was their
ability
to fire bird shot cartridges, but Remington makes a .45 shot cartridge
that functions fairly well in a .45 auto. When we moved to bear country,
we sold off the 686s and standardized with the .45 automatics. We wanted
to be able to put a lot of rounds into a bear in a hurry, and .45 autos
are far faster
to reload than revolvers--at least under stress, in our experience.
Granted, the chances of surviving a bear attack are slim, but we feel
that we have a better chance with the Gold Cups. At least when they
find all the ejected brass around our mangled corpses, they can say
that we put up a good fight. ;-)
Speaking of bears, for homesteaders living in brown bear or grizzly
bear country, a more powerful handgun than even the .45 ACP is often
recommended. A stainless steel Smith and Wesson Model 629 (6-inch)
.44 magnum, or Ruger Redhawk (5-1/2-inch) .44 magnum, or perhaps the
Colt Anaconda (6-inch) .44 magnum would be good choices. If you would
rather carry an automatic, the LAR Grizzly (.45 Automatic magnum),
Wildey (.45 Automatic magnum), Desert Eagle (.44 magnum), or the long
discontinued Auto Mag (.44 Auto Mag) would also serve the same purpose,
although all of these guns are relatively expensive and heavy to to
carry.
Rifles
A lightweight rifle chambered in .223 Remington is particularly
useful
for shooting both perched birds and predators. Remington, Ruger, and
Sako all make good quality .223 bolt actions. Selecting one is largely
a matter of personal preference. We use our .223s on coyotes, which
currently abound in great numbers in the Western U.S., and are a
constant source of trouble in our area. They have a penchant for
devouring ducks, chickens, pet cats, and newborn lambs. We use three
different guns on the uncommon occasions when we have a chance to
snipe at coyotes. These guns include a Remington Model 7 bolt action
chambered in .223 Remington, a Colt CAR-15 "M4gery",
and a scoped L1A1 semi-auto
chambered in .308 Winchester (virtually identical to and in most
cases interchangeable with the 7.62 mm NATO cartridge
used by the military). a .308 bolt action is used
when we spot a coyote at beyond 300 yards. With the Remington Model
7 available, the CAR-15 is largely superfluous. But we like its easy
handling, and the fact that we can get off a quick second shot
when shooting at running rabbits or coyotes.
Combination Guns
The next category
of guns are combination or "garden guns." These range from
expensive imported rifle/shotguns to inexpensive combination guns made
domestically. The European three barrel combination guns or "dreilings" (often
anglicized to "drillings") can easily
cost $2,000 or more. Guns typical of this breed are the Colt/Sauer
drillings, Krieghoff drillings, and the Valmet over/unders. They typically
feature a high-power rifle barrel
mounted beneath side-by-side 12 gauge shotgun barrels. Domestically
produced two-barrel combination guns, while not as aesthetically pleasing.
cost far less than European drillings. These guns offer the ability
to fire
a single shotgun shell or rifle cartridge, with the flick of a switch.
They are by far the best gun to have at hand when out doing garden
work. They give you the versatility to eliminate a pesky gopher or
marauding birds, whether they are perching or in flight. One of the
best of the inexpensive combination guns now on the market is the Savage
Model 24F with a Rynite fiberglass stock. This gun is currently available
in .223 Remington over 12 gauge, or .223
Remington over 20 gauge. Screw-in choke tubes for the shotgun barrels
are now standard. Both models are also available with traditional
wood stocks. In the past, Savage Model 24-series guns were made in
a wide range of chamberings such as .22 LR over .410, .22 LR over 20
gauge, .22 Magnum over .410 gauge, and .357 magnum over 20 gauge. All
of these now-discontinued guns featured wooden stocks. They can often
be found used at gun shows or in gun shops at modest prices. Due to
their versatility,
they are well worth looking for. Because most of the Savage 24-series
guns come with a blued finish, it is recommended that they be upgraded
with a more durable finish such as Teflon or Parkerizing.
Long Range Rifles
Big game hunting/counter-sniping rifles are the next group of guns to be considered. The selection of a big game rifle depends on the variety of game to be hunted. In the lower 48 states, a bolt action rifle chambered in .308 Winchester or .30-'06 will normally handle most big game. Regional differences will determine exactly what you need. For example, in the plains and desert states, you might need a scoped rifled chambered in a flat-shooting cartridge such as .270 Winchester or .25-'06. No matter which chambering you select, it is important that you buy a well-made rifle with a robust action. Remington, Ruger, and Winchester among others all make guns with these qualities. After you buy the rifle itself, you will probably want to have a more durable finish applied to its metal surfaces. You might also want to mount a telescopic sight if you will be hunting in open country. If you'll be hunting in brushy or densely-wooded terrain, you could find a scope is more of a hindrance than a help. It is important to note that scopes are more prone to failure than any other part of a rifle. Therefore, it is wise to select a rifle with good quality iron sights, whether or not you intend to mount a scope. If and when a scope should fail, you will have the recourse of removing the scope and reverting to iron sights. The need for a cartridge more powerful than .30-'06 is normally a consideration only in Alaska or parts of Canada where moose and grizzly bear are found. Several powerful cartridges are currently popular. These include the .35 Whelen, the .338 Winchester, and the .375 H & H Magnum. For our type of big-game hunting (normally deer, but nothing bigger than elk), my wife and I selected a pair of Winchester Model 70s. One is chambered in .308 Winchester, and the other in .30-06. The .30-06 is in a H-S Precision Kevlar-Graphite stock with integral aluminum bedding block. The .308 is in a Brown Precision green fiberglass stock, and was converted by MCS to take standard detachable M14 magazines. (Which are available in 5, 10, and 20 round capacity) This gives it interchangeability with magazines for M1As. They were both given a green Teflon finish and topped with Trijicon 4-power matte finish scopes. Because either rifle might also be used tactically, we had their muzzles threaded for flash hiders (1/2" x 28 thread--the same as that used on the M16) by Holland's of Oregon, and had Holland slim line muzzle brakes installed. We decided to get the muzzle brakes because they don't draw as much attention (in these politically correct days) as a flash hider. However, if we get into some deep drama, we can quickly switch to flash hiders.
Shotguns
The
next gun categories to consider are upland game and waterfowl shotguns.
If you will have the opportunity to hunt upland game or waterfowl
on your property or somewhere nearby, you will of course want to
include one or more good bird-hunting shotguns in your battery. As
you will likely be carrying your shotgun more often than the average
city dweller, a durable finish is desirable. Remington's "Special
Purpose" versions
of their Model 870, Model 11-87, and Model 1100 fit this bill nicely.
They come from the factory with a non-glare stock finish and a dull
gray Parkerized finish on all their surfaces. Several makers produce
(or produced) Parkerized-finish pumps and autos comparable to the Remington
Special Purpose series. One such is the Winchester Model 1300 Waterfowler.
Like most other currently produced domestic shotguns, the Remington
Special Purpose guns come with screw-in choke tubes as standard equipment.
A 26-inch barrel length is best suited to upland game hunting, while
a 28-inch or 30-inch barrel is normally recommended for pass shooting
at ducks and geese. Because odd gauge shells might be difficult to
obtain in rural areas or regardless of where you live in times of turmoil
, it is best to buy either a 12 or 20 gauge shotgun. Also, given the
trend towards steel shot, a 3-inch length chamber is recommended. The
longer chamber allows the use of magnum loads, which are needed to
give the less dense steel shot the same killing power as traditional
lead shot loadings. In addition, screw-in choke tubes are advisable.
As steel shot wears out chokes quickly, replaceable choke tubes can
greatly increase the usable life of a gun. Because my wife is of small
stature, (5' 2", 100 pounds)
she prefers to do her bird hunting with a 20 gauge shotgun. She uses
a Remington Model 1100 "Youth" model. Winchester makes a
similar small-dimension variant of their Model 870. Because screw-in
choke tubes were not available at
the time that this gun was purchased, it was retrofitted with a Poly-choke
adjustable choke. To make the gun less vulnerable to the ravages of
wet weather, it will soon be shipped off to be black Teflon coated.
With an extension magazine and a spare short (20") barrel, our
birdguns can double as self-defense guns.
One gun that deserves special mention is the .410 gauge "Snake Charmer II" single shot shotgun, made by Sport Arms, Mfg. This lightweight little gun just barely meets the Federal size minimums (18-inch barrel and 28-1/2 inches overall length). It is constructed of stainless steel and has a synthetic stock with a compartment that holds spare shotshells. Because it is compact and lightweight, our Snake Charmer gets taken along on walks where heavier, bulkier long guns would usually be left behind. This gun has been used to kill several rattlesnakes and a good number of quail.
Retreat Defense
Self-defense guns are the final category to
be considered
for farms, ranches, and survival retreats. Just as homesteaders in
the 19th century had to depend on themselves for the protection of
their lives and property, many modern homesteaders are finding that
they must do likewise. Post-TEOTWAWKI,
we all may be "on our
own"--with no law enforcement
to call on. (Or any way to call them, even if they are still available.)
Even in the present day, rural farms and ranches are often a long
driving distance from the nearest sheriff's office. Even in relatively
peaceful times, a lot can happen before help arrives, so it makes
sense to be prepared. If you expect bad economic times or other sources
of social unrest, you should make a concerted to stock up on
defensive guns, plenty of ammunition, lots of spare magazines, and
a good selection
of spare parts. Again,
the assumption that law enforcement officials will be
able to assist you also depends on being able to contact them. Encounters
with poachers, escaped convicts or other assorted riff-raff might not
necessarily take place in the immediate vicinity of your home or vehicle
where you would presumably have access to a telephone or CB radio.
If you are walking a fence line at the far end of an 80-acre parcel
and run into trouble, the only law enforcement assistance available
might be the handgun on your hip. Be prepared. At our farm, we have
a variety of guns whose main job is defense, but that are also used
for other purposes. As previously noted, our L1A1s double as a long-range
coyote eliminators. Our large frame handguns are primarily self-defense
guns, but also usable for hunting and shooting pests. As I noted
previously, we have begun carrying .45 automatics instead of .357s.
If you like the ballistics of the .45 ACP but prefer the action of a revolver, you might consider purchasing a Smith and Wesson Model 625 revolver. This is a stainless steel revolver built on the "N" frame--the same heavy frame used for the Smith and Wesson .44 magnums. The Model 625 uses "full moon" spring steel clips to hold six rounds of .45 ACP. Unlike most speed loaders, with the full moon clips, there is no knob to twist, or any mechanism that could potentially fail. You just drop the whole works into the cylinder. This makes them just as fast, if not faster, than any speed-loader. The Model 625 is offered in 3-inch, 4-inch, and 5-inch barrel lengths--the latter one of which is just about ideal. Because the .45 ACP has the same bore diameter as the .45 Colt cartridge, a spare cylinder and crane assembly can be fabricated for this more potent cartridge. This combination would make a particularly versatile handgun. One shop that specializes in this work is Miniature Machine Co. of Forth Worth, Texas. (See: Gunsmithing Service and Parts Providers, below)
Shotguns are also well-suited to defensive work. A spare short "riotgun" barrel for a pump or automatic shotgun can make it double as a formidable home defense weapon. For our Remington 870 12 gauge, for example, we have a 20-inch length barrel that is equipped with rifle (slug) sights, and the choke tube that we keep in it is cylinder bore (no choke). It is ideal for shooting rifled slugs or buckshot. With the short barrel and a Choate eight-round extension magazine, the Remington 870 is a particularly handy gun to use at night for shooting feral dogs and cats or other animals that are attracted to our barn full of rabbits and chickens. It is also a reassuring gun to have around for home defense. The short riotgun barrel stays on our Remington most of each year, while the long "bird" barrels are normally mounted only during the quail and pheasant seasons.
The
"Battery "
Just how many guns will you need? If you are on a budget, you
might
get by with a good quality bolt action rifle chambered in .308 or .30-06,
a 12-gauge pump shotgun with a spare riotgun barrel, a .22 LR rifle,
and a .45 automatic pistol. However, in order to have the versatility
required for the many shooting tasks at most farms and ranches you
will likely need at least twice this many guns. For a more complete
discussion of guns suitable to a self-sufficient and self-reliant lifestyle, the
late Mel Tappan's book Survival Guns (The Janus Press,
Rogue River, Oregon) is generally recognized as the best general reference
in print. And for a more complete discussion of guns
suitable for self-defense, I highly recommend the
book Boston's
Gun Bible.
A battery of guns for use at your farm or ranch should be considered a necessity, just like buying a Hi-Lift jack or a chain saw. Purchases should be made systematically and dispassionately. Like buying any other tool, you shouldn't skimp on quality. A well-made gun can deliver years or even generations of reliable service.
One final note: You can buy the best guns in the world, but unless you practice with them often, you are not prepared. Getting training at a firearms school like Front Sight is money well spent!
Gunsmithing Service and Parts Providers:
The following is a partial listing of suppliers and services. Many gunsmiths offer Parkerizing. You might be able to locate a local shop to provide this service, and thus eliminate the expense and delay of shipping a gun via common carrier.
METACOL Finishes:
Arizona Response Systems (T. Mark Graham)
16014 West Remuda Drive
Surprise, AZ 85387
phone 623-556-8056 (by appointment only!)
http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com
Nickel/Teflon ("NP3") Coating:
The Robar Companies Inc.
21438 7th Ave., Suite B
Phoenix, Ariz. 85027
(602) 581-2648/2962
http://www.robarguns.com/DesktopDefault.aspx
.45 Colt cylinders for .45 ACP S&W Revolvers:
Miniature Machine
Co.
606 Grace Avenue
Ft. Worth, Texas 76111
Kevlar-Graphite Stocks:
H-S Precision, Inc.
1301 Turbine Drive
Rapid City, South Dakota 57701
(605) 341-3006
http://www.hsprecision.com/
Winchester and Remington Bolt action rifle detachable M14 magazine
conversions:
Moe's Competitor Supplies
34 Delmar Drive
Brookfield, Conn. 06804
(203) 775-1013
"The more corrupt the republic, the more numerous the laws."
- Cornelius Tacitus, 55-117 AD, Roman historian
Note from JWR: Please send your entries for Round 2 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest soon! The writer of the best article will win a four day course certificate at Front Sight. (An up to $2,000 value!) The deadline for entries is the last day of January.
I was recently doing some relocation research for a consulting client, and I came across a pretty amazing 960 acre ranch in the south-east corner of Montana. It looked quite promising, but unfortunately it is down-wind of Yellowstone (with a remote chance of becoming a super caldera) downwind of Montana's missile fields, and just a bit up wind of South Dakota's missile fields. The client decided to pass on this one--given its locale, and his personal TEOTWAWKI scenario. Thus, it put me at liberty to mention it here in SurvivalBlog. If you are not concerned about a full scale tit-for-tat ground-pounding nuclear exchange with the Russians, then read on. Picture this: Carter County, Montana: 5,500 square miles and only about 1,200 residents, about 1/3 of whom live up in the county seat of Ekalaka, at the north end of the county. The main source of livelihood is beef cattle ranching, plus a few "stripper" oil wells. Great hunting. (The county is known for its elk, wild turkey, antelope, whitetail deer, and mule deer hunting.) The ranch is about 30 miles north of Devil's Tower National Monument. Here is the description from the realtor's web site: Very scenic ranch with pine covered hills, grassy meadows, hardwood treed draws to rolling grass covered plains. Plenty of water, many of the draws have springs and pools of water, a 130 ft. deep well with a windmill and one very big spring fed reservoir. Cows do not have to walk over 3/4 mile to water. The house is supplied water by a 22' deep hand dug well. Bass were planted in the reservoir about 6 to 7 years ago and never fished. Very good deer and turkey hunting as the ranch hasn't been hunted for years. House is older but very comfortable and is in a very scenic area of the ranch. Access is a county road that is graveled to within 3 miles of the road. The property is a little remote but very peaceful and pretty. Has power and phones. All in all a very easy to maintain ranch. At just 960 acres, this is considered a small ranch, for this region (Because of the scant precipitation, the grazing only supports 35 cow-calf pairs.) It is three miles to the nearest hamlet (Ridge), and a bit further to the nearest post office (at Boyes). It is 27 miles to any decent shopping,. (In Broadus.) The ranch presently has just a one bedroom house, but it is probably big enough to live in while you'd build a new house. The asking price for the 960 acres with house is $550,000, with a possible owner contract. I anticipate that you could carve off two or three 120 acre parcels and keep the rest for yourself, free and clear. There are shopping/tax advantages of being in close proximity to four different states. Hmmm.... See: http://www.montana-ranches.com/hurleyranch.htm Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in this listing. It just looked neat, so I'm passing it along.
Mr. Rawles,
I really enjoy and appreciate the articles on your website which include
information not otherwise available and which are very helpful in my
efforts to develop a self sufficient rural life style that will survive
the coming earth changes, and weather and financial disasters that
may engulf the economy over the next few years.
I recently contracted for and occupied a 40 foot diameter geodesic
dome home with an all concrete shell. My wife and I have lived in it
for two years and we love it. These homes can be beautiful, strong
and very functional. My home kit came on a flatbed semi trailer in
the
form of pre-cast concrete triangular panels with six inches of styrofoam
insulation glued on each panel. The company offered a list of contractors
who would erect the shell and do the interior framing with the idea
that local contractors could provide the excavation, concrete basement,
plumbing, electrical, carpeting, drywall and other services with numerous
opportunities for do it yourself work to cut costs. We purchased conventional
Kraftmaid kitchen components from Home Depot. We have a full basement
with a two car garage and a family room with a wood stove, a living
room, kitchen, dining room and two bedrooms on the main level, an office
and master bedroom on the upper level and a cupola on the very top
of the
dome with sliding windows on all five sides. It could be a bedroom,
office, playroom or whatever is needed.
I was looking at your January 6, 2006 comments on dome homes and later
comments and am offering the following for your consideration.
You made the comment that there is a risk of low resale value of these
homes. This risk may be valid on the "economy" dome homes with inadequate
windows and dark interiors but this statement may not be valid on the
nicer upper scale dome homes. Very few of the nicer dome homes have
ever sold to establish the market value of these units. After a few
more hurricanes and tornados destroy everything in the area except
the concrete dome homes, perhaps more will be built and sold to better
establish the market value of these units.
The comments about the difficulty of constructing the wooden roofs
do not apply to the concrete shell domes of the type that I have. The
most labor intensive part of the construction was the drywall work
which involved cutting and fitting the drywall for the interior partitions
to fit all of the angles where the walls attach to the styrofoam that
is glued to the inside of the shell panels. This cost was more than
offset by the no extra cost of the roof which was included in the cost
of the shell. If it is sealed properly and painted, there will be never
be any additional roofing expenses except for an occasional repainting
of the entire exterior which will include the roof. You discussed
four types of dome homes. There is another type which is the erection
of pre-cast concrete panels made at the factory where the reinforced
concrete is on the outside for added strength and rigidity. Steel mesh
extends several inches beyond each side of the panels and after the
panels are in place, concrete is placed in the voids between the panels
and when this concrete hardens, the structure is as solid as a rock.
Under this system, a continuous pour is not needed just like Hoover
Dam. Interior wood framing supports the panels until the concrete is
cured and then these supports are removed and used for the interior
framing.
We were surprised and impressed by the relatively uniform temperatures
between the main and upper levels. I formerly lived in a tri-level
conventional home in Florida where the lower level was always several
degrees colder
than the upper levels to the extent that a comfortable temperature
in the upper levels resulted in discomfort in the ground level under
the
bedrooms. This problem
is nonexistent on a well insulated dome home. The wood stove in the
basement could heat the whole house using the stairway as the heating
duct or the door at the top of the basement stairs can be closed to
keep the basement warm.
See: http://www.donnadreamland.citymax.com/page/page/905874.htm for
some pictures of the exterior and interior of our home in Northwest
Arkansas. It is in a
new rural community consisting of 3
acre home sites surrounded by 300 acres of pasture and woods. This
land is owned by a person interested in selling off 3 acre home sites
for
self sufficient living in a rural environment off of the main roads
but with access to U.S. 412 which goes to Springdale and Fayetteville,
the nearest large cities. The pictures also show the beauty of the
area. The water from the wells is excellent. The website also includes
a link to the manufacturer of the dome kits. A remote area at the rear
of the site does not have electricity yet and would be ideal for anyone
interested in living off the grid. A survival group could even establish
their own community in that area if they so desired with or without
electricity. There is only one entrance to the entire 300 acres much
of which is on rolling hills with the pasture in the valley and the
woods and home sites on the slopes. - Steve Fennel (e-mail: sfennel@direcway.com
)
Sir:
I may have something to add concerning Washington's
[retreat potential] ranking.
I just left there last year and my experience has shown it have not only
the Cali- syndrome but a lot of [liberal out-of-staters that have
moved there are] are "Washingtonians
In Name Only" (WINOs.) For married folks who have a relationship that
is faltering, it
is not
good to
be
a man in
Washington
right now. The recent Brame shooting has given a wonderful opportunity
for immature, greedy spouses to dump their hubbies into the prison
system on trumped up domestic violence charges. Finding conventional
work and being able to afford a place to live has definitely gone
south with higher rent eating up most of a persons wages. Forget
land in the Pugetopolis area (Olympia-Everett). I had a Veteran's
Administration (VA) [home loan qualification] certification that I couldn't
use because everything was
twice again higher than
what it was good for. Also land use legislation that was passed in
the last year has restricted what you can build on your property
now. You have to have permission to build on your own land. Further,
if you want to build an alternative house such as an Earthship or
other "scrap house" it will not happen on the "wet
side" [of the Cascade mountain range.] Various friends I know
who are in the building trade have told me that no permits will be
issued
for
these
type
of houses.
The developers seem to have the building authorities by the n**ds
on this one. Money talks and it is a society of exclusivity there.
It also appears that you are not really allowed to really develop
your own way. Both in livelihood and living. WINOs again. My experience
has shown they will try to force you to go for a high powered job
in your existing skills, not allow you to change direction, try and
persuade you to go into debt to finance a lifestyle they approve
of and retaliate if you don't bow to their wishes. Even to turning
a family member against you. I love societal judgments. (Innuendos.)
That describes better than anything the lack of maturity and lack
of objectivity in getting to the bottom of anything. Opportunities
appear to be better across the mountains though. - J.W. (A former
Washington resident, now exiled to Kansas)
Jim:
Regarding the Finnish Model 1939 Mosin Nagant 7.62x54R Rifles being
sold by AIM
Surplus (See: http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/copy_of_Finnish_Model_1939_Mosin_Nagant_7.62x54R_Rifle.html)
I was wondering what you thought of this rifle? Thanks, - Straightblast
JWR Replies: Those are fine rifles, and the Russian
7.62x54 Rimmed cartridges (the same rounds used for the Dragunov) are
cheap, fairly
plentiful (mainly corrosively primed military
surplus
loads, however) and it hits about as hard
as .30-06. The biggest detractor is that sporterizing parts for Mosins
are much more limited than for Mausers. Rechambering is also more difficult.
Quite a few of the Finnish M1939s were
re-arsenalized
using
pre-1899
actions. The M1939 is a bit heavy, but
accurate. Because production spanned 1898 (some are antique while others
are modern), it is difficult being able to prove that they are pre-1899
unless you spend six or seven minutes taking the rifle apart. (Typically,
the last two digits of the year of manufacture are stamped on the
tang,
under
the
wood.) OBTW, I know of one gent that carries a close up picture of
his pre-1899 Mosin rifle's tang in his wallet, just in case its Federally-exempt
status is ever
questioned.
"What we do in life, echoes in eternity." - Maximus, in the movie Gladiator
I strongly believe that every prepared family ought to have one or two Federally exempt pre-1899 guns. Why? There may come a time in the near future when legislation will dictate nationwide gun registration. But pre-1899s will presumably be exempt. To explain: Guns made in or before 1898 aren't classified as "firearms" under the Federal law. They haven't been, ever since 1968. They are outside of Federal jurisdiction. Because of their very small numbers, in the eyes of legislators they are a trivial "non-issue." In the envisioned era that you are forced to either bury or register the rest of the guns in your collection, your un-papered pre-1899s could still be used for hunting and taken to the range, with impunity. The long term implications are staggering. For the same reason, so is their long term investment value. I expect the value of all pre-shootable pre-1899 cartridge guns to double or triple in value in the next decade--not because of their collector's value, but solely because of their unique legal category. Guru say: Buy them while they are still affordable! If you don't, then in just a few years you will probably kick yourself for missing the boat.
I've had two different readers recently contact me, soliciting my advice about pre-1899 production bolt actions to re-build into modern hunting or counter-sniper rifles. They asked: Which one is the best action to buy for a re-build project? IMHO, the very best available is the Model 1893 Turkish contract Oberndorf (German) Mauser action. Because these rifles were re-heat treated when they were re-arsenalized into 8 x57 in the 1930s, these rifles can handle the highest pressure of any small ring Mauser action. Despite the fact that these rifles have their 1930s re-arsenalizing date stamped on the receiver ring, their pre-1899 (Federally exempt) status is firmly established. I have a letter from the ATF that specifically addresses M1893 Turkish Mausers, confirming that they are all considered pre-1899 exempt, even if they have been re-barreled, re-chambered or sporterized. A link to the PDF of that letter is included in my fairly comprehensive Pre-1899 FAQ. (See: www.rawles.to/Pre-1899_FAQ.html) To anticipate you next question: Yes, a large ring Mauser action would be be superior to a small ring, but unfortunately 99.9% of those were made after 1898, so the chances of finding one that is legally antique (made in or before 1898) is downright infinitesimal. BTW, in 25 years in the gun show business, I only found one such action (from a Model 1896 German Trials rifle), and it sold very quickly, for $550--for just a stripped action!
Once relatively plentiful in the U.S. market, the supply of Model 1893 Turkish Mausers has dried up. One good affordable source of these rifles is The Pre-1899 Specialist. (See; http://www.antiquefirearms.org/blog.) I've heard that he still has just a few left--a couple of which have sound stocks and decent bores (if you want to leave them "as is" in 8x57mm Mauser), and a couple of others that have stocks with small cracks--but those of course would be fine if what you are after is an action to re-build.
Any gunsmith that is competent with Mausers can build up a rifle in a modern caliber for you, using a Model 1893 Mauser action. (Bending the bolt, drilling and tapping for scope, mounting it in a sporter stock, and so forth.) The Turkish contract M1893 action is suitable for modern calibers such as .243 Winchester and .308 Winchester, or classics such as 7x57 Mauser or 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser. Despite the fact that these rifles are all at least 108 years old, with new barrels they can be built up as real tack drivers.
Take the time to visit The Pre-1899 Specialist's site, and think about the possibilities. Again, I recommend that you buy your pre-1899s now, while they are still affordable!
An important item to remember to purchase in advance if you have children is extra home schooling supplies. You may remember trigonometry, but could you teach it to your children without any materials? If you self-quarantine your family because of a flu pandemic it will be nearly impossible to acquire books or other supplies. Post-TEOTWAWKI, after your generation is gone, advanced math and science will be rare and valuable skills.
I am fairly new to your blog, having been introduced by BulletProofMe.com.
I have enjoyed reading it every now and then, and have been preparing
for quite some time now. So you can imagine, I have most if not all
the things you are talking about EXCEPT the place outside the cities,
but that is being worked on as I write this, and HOPEFULLY we will
buy some land soon. Just looking for the right place.
Switching gears, I found some interesting information on Peak
Oil, and
why cheap oil is over forever. See the transcript available at:
http://www.financialsense.com/fsn/BP/2005/1022.html -
Mel in Austin
James,
A companion article to Steyn's It's the Demography, Stupid (see
SurvivalBlog January 7th post) may be found at: http://www.nicedoggie.net/2005/index.php/?p=1144.
It's entitled
Multiculturalism’s Threat To Western Civilization.
It was written by John Clements, who has some interesting credentials.
(See: http://www.thearma.org/Director.htm) Regards,
- Moriarty
JWR,
Regarding the Islamic Demographics and Long
Term Trends article, it reminded me suspiciously of Pat Buchanan's book Death
of the West, except that Pat couches it as
whites versus minorities, and complains that whites are not reproducing enough
and minorities are doing so too much. The problem is that capitalistic structures
must always expand, so if populations of the functionally affluent are significantly
decreasing for either reason it would seem to hint at an economic disaster of
epic proportions. Particularly as folk are so specialized in just their own skill
set these days. If the author is wrong about resource availability (I think oil
supplies will not keep up to overall population needs) being unimportant, the
demand destruction caused by the lack of oil may enhance the economic collapse
caused by the shrinking economic base. I don't buy into the dismissal of the
importance of environmental awareness or that terrorism is as important as portrayed
by the media. I believe terrorism has more to do with us manipulating other countries
for access to their resources (resource wars?) and consolidating centralized
power. Let me put it this way: Any president that continues to read goat stories
when informed of a major attack apparently knows that there was no nuclear/chemical/naval
or whatever additional attacks and that responding quickly to the attack was
of no importance. I just can't buy Al Qaeda as the humongous threat that
it is popularly described. However, I strongly agree with the author
that our
part
of the world (non-Islamic) is in a stage of serious cultural decay, and that
we (our leadership) have lost our ability to critically think. In short, we are
entering the deep stuff. - B.F.
Note from JWR: Please send me your favorite quotes and I'll post them as "Quotes of the Day."
Today we present another entry for Round 2 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best article will win a four day course certificate at Front Sight. (An up to $2,000 value!) The deadline for entries is the last day of January, 2006.
Skill and etiquette in the process of bartering can
be a plus today or in a future time when the world could be completely different.
In that future time your local mass marketing chain may not be in business.
You may have to resort to barter. I loved the scene in Mr. Rawles's book, "Patriots",
when the group goes to the local barter faire with a handful of .22 cartridges
and some pre-1965 dimes. I can’t recall everything they got, but for
their initial, pre-TEOTWAWKI investment,
they came out way ahead.
I have to confess to being a flea market survivalist. This is the result of
my life circumstances and my psychological make-up. I am a touch, uh, frugal,
and
my resources are limited. I’m not embarrassed to buy something used with
the possible exception of underwear and toothbrushes. In very hard times, even
these reservations might be overcome.
First, let’s look at some reasons to search your local flea market or trade
lot (I use the terms interchangeably, but prefer trade lot) and then go to the
how-to of this option. The first reason is the most obvious. Buying second hand,
or from someone who has little overhead will stretch your resources. Sometimes
dramatically. Good examples from