Note From JWR: Special Thanks to SurvivalBlog reader Doug H. who out of the kindness of his heart utilized some arcane scripting voodoo to add an anchor to each entry in The SurvivalBlog Glossary. Henceforth, clicking on each link to the Glossary will result in a specific entry being displayed. For example, try clicking on: "TEOTWAWKI." Note that it will take us a while to go back through and retrofit all of the existing Glossary links, to make them properly "targeted." Thanks for your patience.
The recent string of tornados in the Midwest clearly illustrate that point that every family should have a very sturdy vault/safe room. Just a standard basement will not suffice as a shelter. The following newspaper quote came in the aftermath of a tornado in 2005: "...According to Rizzo, Harold O. Orlofske, 54, who died in the Stoughton tornado, had properly sought safety in the basement of his home but was killed when the chimney collapsed onto him..." (See: http://www.usatoday.com/weather/news/2005-08-23-tornado-warnings_x.htm?csp=34)
If properly constructed, one room can simultaneously fill several vital roles: Walk-in gun vault, storm shelter, fallout shelter, and panic room. By planning ahead and with only a bit more expense, you can also devise a hidden entrance to your shelter. An example of a well executed under-garage shelter was built by SurvivalBlog reader Rourke. (The gent that moderates the Yahoo Survival Retreat and Secure Home Forum) Don't miss Rourke's shelter/vault construction photos at: http://tinyurl.com/np82e.
There are lots of vendors that construct either basement or above ground safe/shelters. But beware: There are a lot of designs that cut corners. Some reputable vendors include: Gaffco (in New York, New York), Ready Made Resources (one of our loyal advertisers, in Tellico Plains, Tennessee), Remagen Safe Rooms (in Monteagle, Tennessee), SafeCastle (another one of our loyal advertisers, in Minnesota), StormSafeRoom.com (in Tulsa, Oklahoma), and USStormShelters.com (in Decatur, Texas).
If you want to have the work done by a local contractor, vault doors are also available separately from a variety of firms. For example: Chief's Security and Safes (in Dallas, Texas), Fort Knox (sold through distributors throughout the U.S.), Oregon Trail Safe Company (in Hermiston, Oregon), and Rhino Safe (in Caldwell, Idaho).
As ABC news reported: "In a remarkable speech over the weekend, Secretary of Health and Human Services Michael Leavitt recommended that Americans start storing canned tuna and powdered milk under their beds as the prospect of a deadly bird flu outbreak approaches the United States..." See: http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/print?id=1716820
JR-
A great deal of discussion regarding emergency kits, bug out bags, and general
storage of necessities always dominates survival and preparedness related
literature, web sites and blogs. I was wondering if anyone had any knowledge
of the best way to pack clothing for long-term storage. Ideally, vacuum
sealing of individual items as well as a complete days worth of clothing
would be best, however in the absence of a close to anaerobic environment
that would keep out moisture as well as most fiber eating insects such
as moths from staying alive to eat holes in your clothes, what can be done
to kill or neutralize insects from destroying clothing? Not everyone can
afford a vacuum sealer and the costly bags that are necessary. Maybe there
is a method to use common good quality garbage bags and "zip lock" bags
for success. Are common mothballs sufficient to render insects dead? if
so how many etc, Do any readers have any suggestions or old fashioned methods
that would be helpful? Are there any Homemakers who might be able to render
advice, Are there any web sites dedicated to this topic, Maybe a military
Tech Manual dealing with warehousing of items might be available? I think
this topic is worth exploring. Thanks, - Boosters
The Memsahib Replies: We have tried several brands of commercially-made vacuum storage bags over the years, and have been disappointed by all of them. Nothing bigger that the small Food Saver bags (which we use for socks and other small articles of clothing) seems to hold its seal for a long period of time. Either the plastic breaks down and the bags develop splits, or they get punctured with handling, or the various sealing mechanisms don't retain their airtight integrity. :-( Do any SurvivalBlog readers know of a brand that really works for long term storage?
Mr. Rawles,
Katie bar the door, get your beans and bullets, now. Driving
into work I heard the supreme potentate Sean Hannity himself say that he had
a stockpile of
food as well as a separate broadcast facility closer to his house with generator
back-up and its own satellite feed for when “times got bad.”
His caller was giving Sean the Mormon guide to foodstuff stocking per adult
per year. I don’t know what the lead in for this discussion was about,
it might have been Asian Avian flu or the Iran situation, but I thought
it was interesting that a national audience heard a national commentator
state
he had a stockpile in place and thought it was a good idea. I bet Sam’s
Club will be overrun tomorrow morning.
Speaking of Bird Flu, I am a nurse in an ER in
Texas and we (Doctors/Nurses) just had to complete an internal continuing education
course on how to contend
with a flu pandemic. After finishing the course we (nurses) came to the conclusion
that when this transpires there will not be enough supplies/medication/respirators/positive
pressure rooms to go around. It will be beyond most humans’ comprehension
how fast the medical infrastructure as we know it will crumble.
A side note on the ammunition threads that have popped up lately. I have the
great fortune of living near Cabela’s, Cheaper Than Dirt and numerous
Academy Sporting Good stores. Academy has virtually NO handgun ammunition on
the shelf in any store. The clerk told me there would be none in the foreseeable
future because their warehouses have none. Cheaper Than Dirt has NO 7.62 [NATO]
on the shelf and has had none for the last two months. I was at Cabela’s
last week and they had the handgun ammo and .223 but I could not find 7.62.
The local gun show in Dallas this past weekend did have all types of ammo and
that situation was taken advantage of, believe me. I would advise stocking
up ASAP, guns/ammo sales are skyrocketing. R.S., RN
A 50/50 chance of mutation and then up to 50% of the world's population dead? Yikes! This one is a must read: http://abcnews.go.com/WNT/AvianFlu/story?id=1724801
o o o
Arab Central Banks Switch Some Assets from Dollars to Euros. See: http://news.independent.co.uk/business/news/article351127.ece
o o o
I just heard that Ready
Made Resources has
received some scarce late issue digital TA -1042A/U U.S. military field
telephones, brand new in the box. This is the current issue type requires a
four conductor wire
(or
two
runs
of
standard
WD-1 commo wire.) The good news is that you can talk in full duplex! Any
12 volt power source works fine: a car battery, motorcycle battery, or a pair
of
lantern
batteries. You can talk point-to-point with these without having go through
a switchboard. They have just a few pairs available,
so don't hesitate.
o o o
Bill Bonner, editor of The Daily Reckoning cites an ominous piece that ran in The Wall Street Journal: “More than $2 trillion of U.S. mortgage debt, or about a quarter of all mortgage loans outstanding, comes up for interest-rate resets in 2006 and 2007,” reports the WSJ this morning. “...some borrowers will have trouble meeting the higher payments and may be forced to sell their homes or could lose their homes to foreclosures.”
o o o
Bernanke: Budget Deficits Endanger Economy: http://www.newsmax.com/archives/articles/2006/3/14/163001.shtml?s=br
o o o
Climate change 'irreversible' as Arctic sea ice fails to re-form: http://news.independent.co.uk/environment/article351135.ece
o o o
More on the Silver Exchange Traded Fund: http://www.thestreet.com/_yahoo/etf/etftuesday/10273384.html?cm_ven=YAHOO&cm_cat=FREE&cm_ite=NA
"Thou [art] my hiding place and my shield: I hope in thy word. Depart
from me, ye evildoers: for I will keep the commandments of
my God. Uphold me according unto thy word, that I may live: and let me not
be ashamed of my hope. Hold thou me up, and I shall be safe: and I will have
respect unto
thy statutes continually.
Thou hast trodden down all them that err from thy statutes: for their
deceit [is] falsehood. Thou puttest away all the wicked of the earth [like] dross:
therefore
I love thy testimonies." - Psalm 119:114-119 (KJV)
Note from JWR: We are still in need of more advertisers so that we will be able to make ends meet when SurvivalBlog becomes my primary source of income, starting in April. If you know of any potential advertisers, please call or send them an e-mail, and encourage them to get a banner ad. These ads start at just $55 per month. That is dirt cheap advertising.
As a public service in support of military, police, and citizen marksmanship, SurvivalBlog.com is pleased to provide web site space for The Target Tracker System© (TTS) and The Target Tracker System - Law Enforcement© (TTSLE). Just click on the Free Targets / Logs button in our top bar and then click on the links for the .zip files. Our sincere thanks to DBG, who donated these products as a fundraising vehicle for SurvivalBlog!
While living on the dry side of the state of Oregon [eastern Oregon] while
in college, my bugout plan always included heading to one of two prepped
positions one
a
cramped remote cabin and some buckets of food and gear the other a friend
who had well prepared but was too close to a highway. Circumstances would
have dictated
which to go to. In winter, my plan
was to ski and sled in my gear. Without the assistance
of a massive snow plowing network, much of the northern United States would
be locked-in, once winter arrived. Almost all logging
roads
and highways would be closed until the snow melts. This seasonal closure can
actually work for your retreat, by providing cheap security--filtering
to just a tiny number of Sno-cats and snowmobiles with any possible access.
I
will leave discussion of snowmobiles, sleighs, and dog teams to an expert.
What you need:
Skis & Ski climbing (skins and/or wax and klister)
Boots
Sled
Collapsible shovel
Sleeping gear
High calorie foods
Powerful stove
You must become comfortable with your gear experience is the best way. I started
with surplus Ramer bindings and upgraded to Silveretta 300s using military
double chamber touring skis. Some prefer Telemark bindings over the randonee
bindings. I stayed with the double chamber to take advantage of using climbing
wax,
turning was not a major concern since I was not planning to be a sport user.
I bought about 10 sets of military synthetic Ramer brand strap on skins at
$5 a pair and
converted several to sticky on. There may be much better gear on the market
now see if you can rent from a shop before you buy. Plastic mountaineering
boots are warm comfortable and you can carry several liners if they get wet,
assuming that you are sleeping warm you can take the liners into your sleeping
bag. A mountaineering boot is designed for crampon use or direct walking on
rock and ice for extended periods of time almost all have a hiking boot type
vibram sole. While they are not the ideal for sport skiing control, a randonee
binding is designed to fit this type of boot.
Your sled can be anything from a long kids sled and rope (better if you put
PVC pipe extenders to a belt for downhill control)
to expensive rescue or military models the better the sled the longer the life
and usually easier to control
in a downhill mode. [JWR Adds: For a team of four or more
people, the large U.S.
Army "Ahkio" sled is excellent. They can occasionally
be found at DRMO auctions at military
posts like Sierra Army Depot; California; Fort Carson, Colorado; Fort Drum,
New York; and Fort Greeley, Alaska.]
The packable snow shovel a back country skiers friend dig you a nice burrow
into the snow so you stay cozy no matter how cold it gets, digs out avalanche
victims, and helps make igloo blocks. Be careful and build a safe snow
cave. If you like snow caves a Goretex bivvy bag
is a good way to keep your sleeping bag dry, don't forget an insulating layer
(foam, thermarest, pine boughs, cardboard, etc). If you prefer a tent be sure
it is a true four season tent, designed to withstand heavy snow and wind.
High calorie foods with lots of fats and protein are important in winter ops
both for warmth and endurance. High protein and fat diets will require much
higher water intake to metabolize. A Camelbak worn over your belly and sipped
regularly is ideal. BTW, a gulp of olive oil before bed raises your body temp
a little to
digest keeping you warm at night. Water generation in a snow-covered environment
is harder than it sounds. Forget eating snow it is water negative once
you calculate the calories required for your body to melt and heat it. Consider
it a worthless junk food. To melt snow you must carry a pot and a proper stove.
The MSR series
especially
the XGK are
made for blasting snow into water in a few minutes and they burn like an F-14's
engine ready for a carrier catapult launch! Use large stainless steel camp
set pot if possible because there is a potential for dry spots at first and
aluminum
may
burn,
adding melted water helps spread the heat much faster.
An Aside: Bunny Socks
As almost nobody packs enough wool socks to last forever remember that rabbit
skin after it is washed and tanned can be worn with the fur side to the feet,
to winterize a pair of boots--especially in the absence of proper socks. These
also
make inner moccasins for your outer leathers if you have to make your own boots.
Sir:
As a "very long time" survivalist, I read everything I can get.
I also enjoy your website as it is the most informative one out there! Now
for my problem: I was diagnosed with what is called Celiac Sprue. This is a
horrible allergy to anything that contains Gluten, such as wheat, barley,
and rye. What this means is that if I were to eat anything that contained Gluten
I will come down with extremely bad cramps, diarrhea, nausea, and fever. Basically,
It feels like I have the flu but ten times worse. As you can see this makes
buying large bulk items for long term storage difficult and costly. My question
to all is this: Can I get a dehydrator and an automatic sealer and vacuum to
make my own MREs? I am talking
about things like Thai noodles (various flavors, all Gluten free), hydrate
and cook them and then turn around and use a dehydrator
to make them dehydrated, or, just seal them in a pouch minus the air and use
them as long term pre-packaged/MRE type food? Does anybody have any experience
in doing just this? Thanks, - Thunderchief
JWR Replies: Home dehydrators are very useful! Over the years, we have used ours for everything from drying venison jerky and apples, to "reanimating" silica gel rust preventative packets. Dehydrators easy to find used for reasonable prices, via a newspaper "want" ad, or a localized web service like Craig's List. Dehydrators are a bit bulky to buy via mail order, so try to find a local source first.) If purchased new, they can be quite expensive. The one that we use at the Rawles Ranch is an Excalibur brand, with a variable temperature control. They are very sturdy and typically have lots of trays, so they can hold a lot. Ours is circa 1980, and still going strong, with no maintenance. They require AC power, so in anticipation of he grid going down, you should already have a backup solar dehydrator, or at least all of the materials that you will need to fabricate one, after TSHTF. (See: http://www.standardtimes.com/daily/08-02/08-31-02/c02li087.htm and http://www.pathtofreedom.com/pathproject/offthegrid/solarfooddryer.shtml, and http://www.herbdatanz.com/sia4_dehydration_apparatus.htm. OBTW, rolls of window screen are great to keep on hand at a retreat, just on general principle. For build ing a dehydrator, a spring house, or a meat house, they will prove invaluable!) You can use the trays from your Excalibur in a properly dimensioned DIY solar dehydrator if you don't get it too hot.
As for a vacuum sealer, the brand that we like and have used for more than 10 years--is the Tilia Foodsaver Compact. Yep, it the one that you've seen on those late night "infomercials." They really do work, both for evacuating and sealing plastic bags, and for evacuating Mason-type jars. To save money, it is probably best to buy one of these used, through eBay. Just be sure that the seller guarantees it against being DOA. Test it thoroughly, immediately after you buy it. Be advised that they are only designed to seal one particular thickness of plastic bags, and they have a limited maximum width.You should shop around for bags and bag material on the Internet as prices vary dramatically!
Check out the outdoor survival and land navigation resources at Survival Monkey. This is are also a site where you can read the full text of the EMP web novel "Lights Out." See: http://www.survivalmonkey.com/ (OBTW, Survival Monkey is not to be confused with Trunk Monkey. I love those commercials!)
o o o
Mr. Bravo mentioned that prices are falling on lithium batteries for Surefire (and similar) high-performance flashlights and lasers. The batteries do not have to be expensive (up to $10 each at the camera department!) There are many discount online sources that sell them in bulk for not much more than a dollar a piece. Even Surefire sells them for under $2 per battery. See: http://www.surefire.com
o o o
I've received several positive e-mails from readers who have bought traps, snares, and gill nets from Buckshot's Camp. Now that Mr and Mrs. Buckshot have completed their move, they have cleared up their backlog of orders. So if you were waiting because of their move, there is no more need to hesitate. Get your orders in. Start studying their instructional DVDs, and try out their gear this Spring. Pound for pound and dollar for dollar, I can't think of any other survival preparation that can do more to ensure that you can feed your family in a long term emergency. Don't overlook this aspect of your training and preparedness!
o o o
I found a great vendor that sells the latest generation FN-FAL para kits and parts. See: http://www.thekaiserworks.com/purchase/falprod.html.
o o o
Why would anyone want to live in New Jersey? What a nightmare for gun owners. See: http://www.anjrpc.org/fopalawsuit.htm
"Turning and turning in the widening gyre
The falcon cannot hear the falconer;
Things fall apart; the centre cannot hold;
Mere anarchy is loosed upon the world,
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
The ceremony of innocence is drowned;
The best lack all conviction, while the worst
Are full of passionate intensity.
Surely some revelation is at hand;
Surely the Second Coming is at hand.
The Second Coming! Hardly are those words out
When a vast image out of Spiritus Mundi
Troubles my sight: somewhere in sands of the desert
A shape with lion body and the head of a man,
A gaze blank and pitiless as the sun,
Is moving its slow thighs, while all about it
Reel shadows of the indignant desert birds.
The darkness drops again; but now I know
That twenty centuries of stony sleep
Were vexed to nightmare by a rocking cradle,
And what rough beast, its hour come round at last,
Slouches towards Bethlehem to be born?"
- William Butler Yeats
Where to begin? I have to preface this letter by thanking you for making
me aware of Front Sight
Resorts.
I had heard of it before, but had not understood the value that waits, nor
the reality of the training. This is the best investment I have made.
I decided to take a Four Day Defensive Handgun class at Front Sight. I found
myself second-guessing my investment of both money and time away from work/family.
The concern of the investment ended as soon as I met the staff. Talk
about Qualified! Let's say Over Qualified. I don't want to get into
details as it would not be coming from a professional that is trained to teach
like only the professionals at Front Sight can do.
I would say that I started the course with "an appreciation" and "hobbyist" type
handgun shooter mentality. I can guarantee that I had fired less than 1,500
rounds through a handgun before heading to the course.
In the course, constructed of lecture, tactical, hands on, and firing
type curriculum, we went through approximately 850 rounds of ammo bringing
my totals to a modest 2,350 rounds ever fired through a handgun of which I
had only fired 150 rounds through the weapon/tool that I took to the course
before enrolling! (As a side note, I very much give you the advice of taking
a Glock brand handgun for this course simply for maximum benefit). Other type
handguns were very specific on how you perform tactics and safety. It freed
up time to focus on the training and not be distracted by the numerous operations
of other type handguns such as Berettas. (You can rent a gun while there as
well.)
The days are very intense, not information overload, but information sponge!
This is priceless instruction. I can guarantee that my instructors were the
perfect marriage for any type learning, thus giving you maximum retention.
I felt that I had received my "money's worth" in the first two days.
In enrolling in the four day course, I soon realized that if you make the commitment
to go to Front Sight, make it a full commitment and go for four days. I went
from basics to Professional by staying the additional two days.
Here are some tips for when you go, (not if you go).
1. Flush your pride down the toilet before you attend
2. Focus on the reason you are there
3. Realize that everything you learn WILL benefit you and your loved ones
4. Use your ears, not your mouth while there
5. Realize that there are only a handful of professionals at the course. (The
instructors, not you)
6. YOU WILL MAKE HUGE GAINS in knowledge, tactics, and marksmanship.
7. Just because Las Vegas is close does not mean you go there while in training!
8. Every night's sleep is too short. You wake up practicing, you think about
what you've learned, you anticipate the next day. There is no time for partying!
9. Plan scientific meals. (I took current Issue MREs) for lunch. The energy
this provided me gave me an advantage in retention and ability.
10. Dry Practice EVERY night.
11. Set a goal, achieve it or surpass it as I did.
12. You may feel intimidated by your peers, (So What). Will you not feel intimidated
by a potential assailant? Our group ranged from the basic service type jobs
to Doctors, Attorneys, SWAT Team Members, Policemen, EMTs, and Housewives.
13. Every student is one more person that may save your life some day, give
them respect, give them advice, take their advice. We all have the same goals!
14. Many students were returning students, (some on their fourth visit to this
particular course. Some came from as far away as New York). Thus giving relevance
to obtaining a membership in which you can attend specific classes as many
times
as you
like for the rest of your life.
15. Practice Perfect Practice. I did this at a speed in which
I was slower than everyone else, but on testing day, the speed came naturally
as the technique
was perfected. I was awarded "Distinguished Graduate" on my first
course to Front Sight, performing at 90% or more in the tactics and shooting
tests. I believe there were four others awarded likewise. Some of the Distinguished
Graduates were returning students during our week.
16. Block out distractions. (Make a plan, and have someone cover your job,
family life, etc. for you). I did not take my cell phone to Front Sight ever.
I saw many getting distracted and missing valuable information for whatever
reason.
17. Make a commitment towards ongoing practice/ training. You could be a Rambo
one day, and a bumbling idiot the next. Learn, practice = retention.
I would love to give specifics, as these are countless. But in doing so, I
could be poisoning the well. Go there with an open mind; be ready to change
your
techniques. You will come away with more benefit in just a few days than you
could possibly ever imagine. I now have a confidence that I have never felt
before, and
best of all; I feel that I owe it to my family. I know that I will be
there for them. - The Wanderer
For a non tactical flashlight (momentary/click button on bottom) I prefer the Underwater Kinetics flashlight. These use four size AA batteries.They are widely used as firefighter helmet lights and survive well, even in fire/ground abuse environments. I try to keep everything standardized to AA and have a large stock of NiMH and lithium-ion rechargeables around. For long term kit storage the comments about 9 VDC lithium is right on, AA lithium batteries are also available in the camera section and can be expected to last much longer in storage than alkalines. I try to avoid CR-123 tactical and laser gear as both the rechargeable and disposable cells are quite expensive.
JWR Adds: Underwater Kinetics also makes some very rugged Pelican-style hard cases.
JWR,
There have been a few posts about batteries lately and a question I have been
unable to find an answer to is:
Do Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries have a limited storage life before
they are put into service (receive their first electric charge)? It would be
nice to know if I can buy a quantity and store them away until needed. I've
not seen this addressed anywhere and maybe you know or one of
your readers knows the answer. Regards, - Keith
JWR Replies: That goes beyond my base of knowledge. Would
any readers care to chime in on this one?
"Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent." - President Calvin Coolidge
Note from JWR: Please help boost the worldwide readership of SurvivalBlog. We now have readers in 40+ countries! (See: http://clustrmaps.com/counter/maps.php?url=http://www.SurvivalBlog.com ) Please tell all of your friends and relatives that live overseas about the blog, especially ex-pats, and deployed military service members. And for those of you in the corporate world, please tell your co-workers that are at off-shore centers. Thanks!
James,
In response to The Army Aviator: Sodium silicate a.k.a. waterglass might be
able to make wood water resistant. I would treat a shingle and then test
it with a blow torch.
I am a big proponent of Barricade gel which is the same dry gel which is in baby diapers. (See: http://www.barricadegel.com/ ) It was available in a home protection kit and is probably the next best thing to a house-sized fire shelter but for a much lower price. The only problem is that Barricade needs to be sprayed on around 24 hours before the flames come. Otherwise it will dry out and become less effective. - David
Jim,
I apologize if you've already covered this in previous archives - I searched
several, but not all, of your blog archives. I did see your comment, "Wheat
stores for 20+ years..." I have a LOT of wheat purchased in
1979 after reading Howard Ruff's "How to Prosper During the Coming
Bad Years." I have other items - Navy and other types of beans. It
is by Neo-Life, "NEST" storage, "Nitro-Guard" protection
- it was stored in #10 cans purged with with nitrogen. So it is all 25+ years
old. I have been storing this stuff in my basement, which is cool and mostly
dry, on 2x4's up off the floor. I keep the humidity below
40% with a de-humidifier. My question is, have these items lost enough of their
nutrition value to where it would be a waste of time trying to use them? My wife
wants
to throw it all out, and I probably will, unless you someone can point me to
a source that would say this stuff is probably still good to use. Surprisingly, "Google" has
failed me this time - I spent several hours looking for an answer, to no avail
(I have used Google for literally
hundreds of searches and it almost always gets the information I need.) What
do you think?
- Mike from Chicago
JWR Replies: Some items like salt will store for centuries as long as they are not contaminated by the rust or decay of their containers. If stored dry, hard red winter wheat still retains 98% of it nutritive value after 20 years. Ditto for sugar or honey. Most dehydrated foods, (such as rice, beans, TVP, and the ubiquitous Neo-Life Stroganoff) will have lost too much nutritive value to be useful after 27 years, even if they were nitrogen packed. They might still be palatable, but unless you are dieting, what is the use of eating them if they have lost 90% of their nutritive value? My advice: If in doubt, throw it out. Ideally, you should continuously rotate your storage food to avoid such waste. If nothing else, mark the cans/cases of your subsequent batches of storage food, so that you can religiously use the oldest lots first.
One tidbit of trivia for you: Some wheat that was found in an Egyptian pharaoh's tomb. A small fraction of it still sprouted after 2,600 years. If you have any canned gardening seeds, try them out. The sprouting yields will be low, but there could be some marginal utility there. Just don't expend too much effort tilling and tending those those rows in your garden! BTW, the same logic applies to canned sprouting seeds.
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I read on The
Claire
Files that you think silver will be going to $40 an ounce.
My spouse and I can't agree when we should sell our 8,000 ounces of silver.
I think we should hang on to it all until it gets to $20 and ounce then sell.
But my spouse thinks we should start selling now. What do you think? By the
way, we purchased most of it at $5 an ounce in the form of 100 ounce bars. We
also have about a bag and a half of "junk" silver dimes.- F.L.
JWR Replies: First, you need to distinguish between a core holding (for barter), and what you bought for investment purposes. My advice is to sell your family core holding--perhaps 800 to 1,500 ounces--only as a last resort. As for the rest, be dispassionate about selling it. Don't try to time the top of the market. Since spot silver is currently at around $9.80/oz., (and it was recently $10.18) so it is has essentially doubled since you bought it. At present, you could sell half of it and recoup your original investment, and still be sitting on 4,000 ounces at essentially no cost. (BTW, don't forget to consider both taxes and the "opportunity cost" of missing out on the interest that you would have otherwise earned in a dollar-denominated investment during he same years that you held the silver.)
There is an old saying on Wall Street: "Bulls make money, and bears make money, but pigs get slaughtered." If you wait until silver hits some magic/arbitrary number, you might miss the peak, and hence get slaughtered when the metals go back into a bear market cycle. That is what happened to a lot of folks, back around 1981. When silver ran up past $35 an ounce, they decided to hold on "a little while longer." Oink oink. Big mistake. They should have gradually averaged their way out, during the second half of the the run-up.
Based on my assumption that you have 80 bars (100 ounce bars) that had a purchase cost of $500 each, here is my specific advice on when to sell:
Core holding: (All of your circulated "junk" coin bags.) Hold and don't sell unless you are in desperate need.
Silver exceeds $10 per ounce: Sell 8 bars.($8,000)
Silver exceeds $12 per ounce: Sell another 8 bars. ($9,600)
Silver exceeds $15 per ounce: Sell another 8 bars. ($12,000)
Silver exceeds $20 per ounce (4x cost): Sell another 8 bars. ($16,000.) This gets you past your "break even" point on your original investment. Everything past this will be gravy.
Silver exceeds $25 per ounce: Sell another 16 bars. ($40,000)
Silver exceeds $30 per ounce: Sell another 16 bars. ($48,000)
Silver exceeds $40 per ounce (8x cost): Sell your last 16 bars.($64,000)
Even if silver crashes after passing $20 per ounce, you will still have recouped your original investment and have 48 bars (4,800 ounces) of silver remaining. But if silver runs up past $40 per ounce, you will have $197,600 in cash. Not bad for a $40,000 investment!.
I'm down in Reno this weekend for the The Big Reno Show. Quite a gun show! All quality gear--no flea market Schumer. I dropped by the table run by Darryl Holland (of Holland's of Oregon), and sent him home a Browning A-Bolt bolt action rifle for "the usual" treatment: I have him thread the muzzles of all of our hunting rifles with 1/2" x 28 threads for a Holland's muzzle brake. The same threads can also be used for Smith Enterprise Vortex flash hiders. This way the rifles can serve double duty as tactical guns. I highly recommend that you do likewise. OBTW, I also highly recommend all of Darryl Holland's gunsmithing services and videos. And I also have his cheek rest stock pouches on five of the rifles up at the ranch.
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The U.S. HHS's reserved view on the flu: http://www.pandemicflu.gov/
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A warning from The American Spectator about war with Iran: http://www.spectator.org/blogger.asp?BlogID=2198
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SurvivalBlog reader Steve H. recommends this source for inexpensive 9 VDC Lithium batteries ($2.50 each), and numerous others in all sizes and types. http://www.cheapbatteries.com
"We’re advising our clients to put everything they’ve got into canned foods and shotguns.”- The Brain Gremlin, Gremlins 2
Jim,
Is there any difference between dried food and dehydrated food, and if
there is, what is the difference? - G.P.
JWR Replies: I'm glad that you asked that, because it is often
a point of confusion. Although semantically they mean the same thing, the difference
is that "dehydrated" storage
foods typically are dried to a greater extent than typical dried foods--such
as the raisins and other dried fruits that are sold at your local grocery store.
However, due to their lower moisture content and because they are usually sold
in sealed, nitrogen-packed,
cans makes
them store for several years instead of just a few months. Also, don't forget
that "dehydrated" is far different than freeze drying, which can
result in even longer storage life, particularly if canned.
James:
I have taken a leave and am now caught back up on the blog. I was away and
talked to my wife every night and she always stated that I must be going
crazy not reading
SurvivalBlog every night! She was right! Upon returning home, did I return
my calls, e-mails, or mail first,.hardly, it was a crash course of GBID (get
back
into Dodge) mentally by reading what I had missed on Survivalblog. A few topics
have arisen that I wanted to comment on (FWIW).
FENCING/CREOSOTE/TELEPHONE POLES-
I have had the benefit of picking the pocket of an old timer that owns and
operates a saw mill. He states that the unique properties of White Oak offer
a huge resistance
to insects and rot. He gives a 15 year "warranty" on 4" diameter
and larger posts. He claims to get 25 years out of a 6" post. Both buried
in the ground with no topical treatment process. He recommended adding gravel
at the base and around the post for added longevity.
He also mentioned that longer lengths are getting harder to get, (i.e.- 16 feet).
The disadvantage is the hardness of the item. In a cattle/livestock operation
he almost instantly recommended the soft wood poplar or cottonwood as good (give/take)
type fences. Not hard and brittle, but fairly resilient.
I know that utility companies are pulling out the "evil" creosote poles
and replacing with green treated or chromated copper arsenate (CCA) impregnated
posts. These are very inadequate comparably. Talk to your local utilities. Ask
if you can get on the list to receive
these used poles for next to nothing or free. You may have to sign a waiver that
you will not hold the company responsible if you use these for structural purposes,
(i.e.- Morton building), etc.
I personally can attest that the worst part of these poles is the part that is
highest in the air. You can typically get four very heavy duty corner posts out
of each pole. Not to mention the copper staples and wire that is still attached
to them for reclaiming at the steel yard.
Another thought just came to mind. In the event of TEOTWAWKI,
communication lines would likely be down. If running long strands of hardwire,
(such as field phones,
intercoms, etc.) Why not use ultimate caution and attach your wire to the "worthless" utility
company poles until a later time when you can "trench" in your wire?
You may be able to connect to a neighbor or a far end of your property without
the labor of digging a lengthy trench to bury the wire in. This could get you
up and running very quickly rather than weeks of excavation. Safety would have
to be a must, instead of using a ladder that you can reach up to the danger height
of electrical wire contact, dedicate a short ladder that gets your communication
wire just above reaching height without the inherent dangers of contacting the
power lines. This suggestion of course is a last recourse and is intended to
be of benefit to you in the event of a GRID DOWN situation where the power lines
would likely have been rendered inert. Please use your head.
SURVIVAL GAME-
A fellow blog reader mentioned something about a survival game. I have purchased
one and am not giving it my recommendation yet, but would be interested in knowing
if the information is in fact accurate and applicable. The name of the game is: "The
Worst-Case Scenario Game" by University Games. It has approximately 600
questions that are noteworthy if accurate. My family very much enjoys playing
the game, however we find more enjoyment in just reading the cards as almost
no one scores well. (This is a good thing as we are learning from it). Even the
repeat questions are a good thing. I would recommend separating the cards into
four equal groups. Wrap a rubber band around each of the four. Put three bundles
of cards into a Ziploc baggie, and concentrate on the first group. It may prove
more retention if the same card is asked twice at some point. This keeps things
interesting for all age groups.
THE RECENT INTERNET DISCUSSIONS ON MULCH-
I have read varying opinions on the reality of the warnings about landscaping
mulch coming from the disease and termite infested regions of New Orleans,
or other such disaster affected areas. A person would be ignorant to think
that micro-organisms could not exist in a plastic bag that is placed in the
sun for weeks and delivered across the U.S.A. Last time I opened a bag of
mulch, it was soaked with condensation, (prime breeding grounds for disease
in my opinion). What the extent of these organisms are, would be, or could
be, are open for discussion. I don't know if termites could survive the packaging/processing,
but it IS possible in my opinion (i.e.- tears in bags). This cause for concern
should follow right into purchasing vehicles, appliances, furniture, or any
used home furnishings that may emerge from disaster areas. Do the research,
eBay can be great, ask for a copy of the title or registration, and verify
that this vehicle was not registered in those regions.
Again, wishes of success during your transition into full time blogging. It is a selfish wish along with a supportive wish. The practical information I receive does not have a dollar amount on it. Thank You! - The Wanderer
Mr. Rawles:
In answer to the question from Steve (posted on March 9, 2006, the PTR-91 clone
is considered one of the best on the market, I have original 1980s versions
of the factory
HK91s
and
I think
that they
compare
well.
Williams Trigger Specialties provides a modification I would highly
recommend. I have the set "paddle" trigger on all of my HKs and the
work is excellent and the results are amazing - a crisp set
trigger breaking at 4 pounds. Lower than the 5 to 6 pounds advertised. Worth
every
penny. Their site: http://www.williamstriggers.com/page4.htm They
state: "WTS
PSG1 style trigger modification is also available for your factory HK or factory
JLD PTR, for $200.00 + $14.00 return Shipping/Handling/Insurance.
Your
lower receiver is required for this work. Because of questionable trigger parts
quality, no other clones trigger assemblies are acceptable." - Wotan
Rourke mentioned this cool site about hidden
storage and passageways. (Best viewed with a broadband connection.) See: http://www.hiddenpassageway.com/
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A firm in Utah that offers the ultimate in off-site records storage--inside a solid granite mountain: http://www.perpetualstorage.com/index_home.htm
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Bulk ammo shortage? See; http://urbansurvival.com/week.htm
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Doc at Big Secrets (www.bigsecrets.cc)
recommends this site on how to
build your own small battery charging generator: http://theepicenter.com/tow02077.html
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Talk radio host Steve Quayle cites this piece from the Washington Post:: http://www.stevequayle.com/News.alert/06_Money/060309.retirement.fund.html
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SurvivalBlog reader "gman" recommends this source for inexpensive
9VDC lithium batteries ($2.50 each), and numerous others in all sizes and types.
www.cheapbatteries.com
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A Russian virologist's view on the Asian Avian Flu. This one is quite
grim: http://en.rian.ru/russia/20060307/43989397.html
"Experience should teach us to be most on our guard to protect liberty
when the Government's purposes are beneficent. Men born to freedom are naturally
alert to repel invasion of their liberty by evil-minded rulers. The greatest
dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by men of zeal,
well-meaning but without understanding."- Justice Louis D. Brandeis, U.S.
Supreme Court Judge. Source: Justice Louis D. Brandeis, dissenting, Olmstead
v. United States,
277 US 479 (1928)
Note from JWR: Don't forget to send you entries for the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best contest entry will win a "Gray" (first-timers) four day course certificate at Front Sight. (An up to $2,000 value!) The deadline for entries for Round 3 is March 31, 2006.
Windows give you natural light and solar heat gain, but they are also the most
strategically vulnerable part of your home or retreat and largest source
of heat loss in conventional construction. The R value (measuring insulation
or resistance to heat flow, the higher the more insulting something is http://rvalue.net )
may be an incomplete, and “apples to oranges” number
as pointed out by David South of Monolithic Domes http://www.monolithicdome.com/plan_design/rfairy/ but,
for my purposes here it does give us a reasonably quantitative basis for
comparison. Remember, the higher the R number, the higher the degree
of insulation. Here in Wisconsin, builders now try and reach R [insulation]
values of 29 for exterior walls, and R40 for attics. People tend to take
notice
if
those numbers are much lower, such as a wall in an old house which is ONLY
R12. Yet, people don’t seem to even notice or care that their windows,
even the “high efficiency” double casement windows, are but a
mere R2 or maybe R3. That, and the transparency of glass for both light and
infrared heat, serves to work against you especially if faced with dangerous
temperature extremes (survival situations). In the summer, when you want
to cool your home, light comes pouring in, quickly heating your home since
the thermal mass it shines on is usually inadequate to absorb the energy
without heating up substantially. At night, the reverse happens, and the
heat goes pouring out of your home through your windows. The other big downside
to windows is their vulnerability. Obviously they are easy to break through,
unless you use very expensive Lexan or Plexiglas products. Worse, particularly
during high winds, tornados, and hurricanes, projectiles coming through non-tempered
glass can create a highly dangerous sharp shower of glass for anyone in the
line of fire far worse than the original projectile. The rest of this article
is to suggest some simple solutions to mitigate the problems of having windows,
and to provide numerous links to expose you to some of the products and ideas
out there on the topic.
We can start by talking about high efficiency windows, but R numbers are
so low, even for the good ones, that it becomes a minor factor against other
things
you can do. First, at least make sure you windows have tight air seals, no
drafts. That exceeds even the low R value of windows problem, especially in
high winds. We just want to have to worry about solar and infra red heat gain
and losses http://www.humboldt.edu/~ges7/windows.htm so
grab some plastic, tape, weather stripping, caulk, and maybe that 3M product
you apply and seal with a hair dryer http://besttop.ru/cat495374 and get those windows sealed up tight before you consider anything else.
To keep the warmth out, there are exterior screens http://www.rollac.com/screen.html.
A great inexpensive source for items including sunlight controls is http://www.growersupply.com/.
Order the catalog, it is so full of great stuff and also goes over using
water as thermal mass. This link has been on SurvivalBlog before, and for good
reason, get it. There is also such thing as a blast curtain safety drape: http://www.safetydrape.com/options.php#gallery
To improve cold weather energy efficiency, keep the heat in, consider adding
triple honeycomb cell pull shades one the inside, giving you a R value gain
of R3.3 to 3.8 (the numbers are cumulative, you can add them, i.e. window R2
+ honeycomb R3.5= R5.5) A good source is http://www.smithandnoble.com and
more specifically the honeycombs here: http://tinyurl.com/3ybq8.
Two more European solutions are between the window models: http://www.swissshade.com/fauser_complete_system.htm and
exterior roll downs http://www.betterhaus.com/ ,
or see a US model on the subject for hurricane protection: http://www.rollac.com/shutters.html.
For exterior storm protection, there are new windows made to take greater punishment,
and after Katrina this has become a growing market. One example is Silverline’s
Weather Stopper series: http://www.silverlinewindows.com/index.cfm.
Another shatter guarding product, perhaps even more extreme is http://www.shattergard.com/home.html or
from 3M http://www.tropictint.net/commercial.html.
Although the idea of fabric is usually to block the sun, a new breed of hurricane
fabric shutters for external window protection now exists http://steelframehousing.org/specialty%20products/fabric_shutters.htm
Then there are good old fashion window shutters. This is a decorative step
up from your 5/8” Oriented Strand Board (OSB)
plywood. If you plan to go the way of plywood though, at least build your frame
in such a way that
attachment
will be solid and quick
to do. The extra consideration here is to insulate your shutter (or plywood)
if possible, in addition to making them strong enough to do the job. This is
another area where there are many new choices with recent high hurricane years http://www.stormshutters.com/, http://www.windshutters.com/, http://www.floridashuttersinc.com/ and
don’t
forget a good set of hinges http://www.hardwaresource.com/ .
Also there are accordion shutters for the inside http://www.roll-a-way.com/products/products.html#Accordion
Alternatives to windows all together include products such as solatube http://www.solatube.com/residential.php or the more extreme idea of “piping” in
light, without the heat, concentrated by a collector dish through fiber optics http://pesn.com/2005/07/27/9600139_Fiber_Optics_Bring_Sun_Indoors/ .
So don’t let your window to the world be a gateway for heat loss, unwanted
solar gain, or the very unwanted point of uninvited entry. As a closing thought,
consider also a quality periscope before you go peeking your face out in the
window: http://www.telescopes.com/products/Sportscope_Zoom_4x-9x_Periscope_18172.html This
is no toy, it works great. - Rourke website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/survivalretreat/
Jim:
I've been really busy lately, which is good. A fair bit of information from
your great blog parallels my experiences and here's some hopefully helpful
information
which I have gleaned:
1) PAL lights: Have several and always been pleased with them. [See: http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Flashlight-PALight-Sales.htm]
I found a great rechargeable 9 volt NiMH high capacity battery. Wow, they really
do have JUICE! Once fully charged several times, they outlive any non-rechargeable
battery I've found and they work well with solar charging.
One 9V NiMH 250mAh Rectangular NiMH Rechargeable Battery ---Ultrahigh capacity
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1995
(BTW, I have purchased a lot of NiMH batteries from these people and always
been
pleased.)
Also, with NiMH rechargeable batteries, you have to cycle them several times
before they achieve full capacity. My first experience with them was disappointing.
I thought "Darn, I had hoped these would be better than this." But
after several charges, they really came to life.
2) Regarding "Buckshot on: What do Canadian Bush Pilots Carry?": When
I was flying oil exploration in northern Maine and southern Quebec during the
the winter, I had
a pair of snowshoes and a reliable 30-30 lever action carbine strapped to the
engine mounts. Fortunately, the engine never quit. Had it quit, I would have
been wishing for Buckshot's list. However, the 30-30 met the need more than once.
Here's a request for advice: My house is old, old cedar logs and with another round of drought apparently coming around, I'm looking at fire protection. When we were kids, we used waterglass to fireproof stuff and I wonder if I could soak my log house with waterglass? Any comments will be appreciated. What the heck is waterglass anyway? - The Army Aviator
Late last year, a buck goat reportedly attacked Zimbabwean dictator Robert Mugabe. This was during a gas station stop while the presidential motorcade was en route to the mountain resort of Nyanga. The attack injured Mugabe's scrotum and lower bowel. Apparently, the local livestock has more gumption than the local populace. The citizens of Zimbabwe should learn from this goat.
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I just heard that George at The Pre-1899 Specialist just got in another small batch of pre-1899 Turkish contract 8 x57 Oberndorf Model 1893 Mausers. He says that these are in the nicest condition 1893s that he's ever seen. (Far better than the "beater" Turks that Sportsman's Guide is currently selling for $299 each.) George's prices will range from $199 to $425 each, depending on wood, bore, and bluing condition. Each comes with a bayonet and scabbard. Many of these are collector grade. Here is your chance to buy a Federally-exempt (no-FFL) Mauser with no stinkin' paperwork! (Consult you State and local laws before ordering.)
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Federal Reserve Chief Bernanke Warns Community Banks on Loans
http://www.newsmax.com/archives/articles/2006/3/8/133626.shtml?s=mo
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Bird Flu Could Reach The Americas in Six Months:
http://hosted.ap.org/dynamic/stories/U/UN_BIRD_FLU?SITE=7219&SECTION=HOME&TEMPLATE=DEFAULT&CTIME=2006-03-09-05-29-23
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Record Trade Deficit:
http://www.newsmax.com/archives/articles/2006/3/9/94132.shtml?s=mo
“So this is how liberty dies. With thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala, Star Wars Episode III, Revenge of the Sith
Hi Jim!
Long time no answer. Sorry about that! I've been reading you blog for a while
now, and find features like the Claire
Files Forum very readable and useful. The Retreat
Areas, Profiles and Survival
Guns sections are
my favourites! You guys have been doing a great work putting you blog together.
Right now here in Scandinavia there is a lots of focus in the media on AAV H5N1 Birds are flying north and
bringing the virus with them! And many are really afraid of mutation of that
virus! And local authorities have not readiness enough if something happens.
Here a couple a weeks ago some people called the cops (I was monitoring my
scanner) of some dead birds in a pond, police arrived, they called fire department,
they
called county health
and it ended with the military came and take care of
the dead animals. Guess how many curious people wanted to see what
is going on??? Just in case its good to be prepared, at least know what to
do
if something
breaks out! Take care and keep on blogging! Cheers - Jan
JR,
Please let us know more about the 9 volt PAL light, where can we purchase
these? Thanks. Also, if a reader is concerned about shelf life of the battery,
a very long lasting 9 Volt battery is made that was designed to be used in
smoke detectors, it also works in AC-powered alarm clocks that have a battery
back
up when the power goes out... Sorry, I don't remember off hand the exact name
or what they are called but they are common enough to be purchased at the local
Radio Shack.......they cost about $8 a few years ago when I was working
for a TV station, we used them a great deal in wireless microphones etc. -
R.B.S.
JWR Replies: The PAL lights are sturdy little flashlights that are rectangular--just a bit bigger than a 9 volt battery. They have a VERY long life. They are available from Buckshot's Camp and several other vendors, for less than $20. See: http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Flashlight-PALight-Sales.htm The ultra long life lithium 9 VDC batteries that you mentioned are available from many electronics and hardware stores. For our readers that live out in the boonies, they are also available via mail order from Newark Electronics. Newark's order # for the lithium battery is: 291-735. They are $8.19 each. (Yikes! Hopefully they are a bit less expensive at your local Radio Shack.) See: http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache:HUs3OCPlOTAJ:www.newark.com/product-details/text/mcm
Mr. and Mrs. Rawles,
I just read this article today and thought it would be of interest to the Survival
Blog readers: http://www.resourceinvestor.com/pebble.asp?relid=17672
The gist of it is that a silver backed exchange traded fund (ETF)
is quietly being opened in London within the next month. Note, this is NOT
the
silver
ETF that
Barclays'
is trying to get past the SEC right
now. Upon reading closer one can note that the claim of being "backed" by
silver is erroneous - “We buy a security from a third party…and
supply the matching contract, and investors won’t have to worry” about
the physical quantity, said Tuckwell. Therefore, the silver ETF in London will
not be physically backed
by the underlying commodity, while taking silver out of the market, but the
performance of the
fund would remain linked to the silver price.
Either way, for good or ill, it seemed that this was relevant information to
the blog readers. Sincerely, -LBTP
I was wanting some info on the PTR-91 Rifle made by JLD Enterprises, I saw this rifle on Atlantic firearms website, but I know nothing about it. Do you or any of the SurvivalBlog readers have any knowledge or opinion as to the worthiness of this rifle. It looks great and I would like to own one but hesitate to fork out that kind of money on an unknown. Thanks, - Steve
JWR Replies: I can't comment because I've never owned or even shot an PTR-91 clone. Perhaps a SurvivalBlog readers has some first hand experience with them.
"With one foot on the land and one foot in industry, America is safe." - Henry Ford, circa WWII.
Note From JWR: Thanks for your patience while we get
set up with the Moveable Type blog tool, templates, and archiving.
Hi Jim,.
Hurricane season is just around the corner here in Florida and I am getting
ready to buy a backup generator for my home. To be better informed, I have
gone back and re-read all the past survivalblog entries on generators,
so I am pretty much up to speed on it. My last step is to decide what size
generator to buy. One additional piece of information that would be helpful
to me, and probably others, is to have an idea of how much wattage it takes
to run each of the various typical appliances in a home ranging from light
bulbs up to air conditioners. That way I can then decide on what size generator
to get based on which appliances my family members think they can/cannot
do without verses how much we can afford to pay for a generator. Thanks
so much, and God bless. - Joe.
JWR Replies: I consider a backup generator a "must " for any family that is dependent upon grid power. I won't be repetitious. (See my Wednesday, January 4, 2006 post in the SurvivalBlog Archives, as well as the follow-up posts during the next few days.) Instead, I will post three useful links on gensets that I've bookmarked in the past few months:
http://www.nwpwr.com/calculation_help/size_inv_&_gen.htm
http://www.flatheadelectric.com/custserv/safety/generator/SafetyGenerator.htm
http://www.generatorjoe.net/page.asp?id=42
The Army Aviator spotted this one for us: The Sun's next 11-year cycle could
be 50 percent stronger. See: http://today.reuters.com/news/articlenews.aspx?type=scienceNews&storyid=2006-03-06T204858Z_01_N06327000_RTRUKOC_0_US-SPACE-SUN.xml&rpc=22
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This page is very nicely done: An on-line survival quiz: http://www.spicolisbarleybin.com/games/survival.swf
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Walter Jefferies at NoNAIS.org found an article in which the FDA admitted that the measures already in place are enough to protect against BSE. See: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~comm/bsefaq.html
"Uh... Strangers... I hate this. Do they want to share what they got or take what you got? Do you say 'hi' or do you blow them away?" - Kevin Costner, The Postman
I think everyone would agree when it comes to wilderness survival, the Canadian
Bush pilots have a history of incredible survival stories.We should apply
some "lessons learned" are then apply them to required gear to carry.
I did some research into Canada's required bush pilot survival gear.
Because I was told the gill net requirements said the net had to be 1.5 inch
mesh. Thinking, here we go again-- how do they measure the net? There are
two different ways they measure gill nets. The way we measure our gill nets
is
from the top
knot to the bottom knot this is 2.5 inch mesh but if the Canadian rules says
1.5 inch they might be talking about the other way you measure gill nets:
That is from the top knot to the side
knot then our net is a 1.5 inch mesh. You would think that there would be
one standard way to measure nets but that would be too easy.
Here is the basic list for Canadian Bush Pilots:
Food with at least 10,000 calories per person
Cooking utensils
Matches
Stove and fuel
Compass
Axe of at least 2 1/2 pounds
Saw
Snare wire
Fishing equipment (tackle and nets)
Mosquito nets and repellent
Tents, wing covers or orange signal panels
Sleeping bags
Signal mirror
Distress signals
First aid kit
Survival manual
Believe me, we have sold lots of gear to bush pilots in Canada, Alaska, and the Lower 48. If I was a bush pilot, this is what I would carry:
A Wiggy's sleeping bag http://www.wiggys.com [JWR
Adds: I highly recommend the Wiggy's FTRSS and
the Ultima Thule.]
Small Katadyn water filter--JRH sells these: https://www.jrhenterprises.com/categoryNavigationDocument.hg?categoryId=16
A small dome tent
10-to-12 [ounce] tarp
First Aid kit
Signal mirror
Distress signal--normal signal flares typically sold at Marine stores
Small backpack stove
Small bush saw
A Estwing steel handled axe
Mosquito nets and repellents
Small emergency gill net, http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Gill-Net.htm
Emergency fishing kit, http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Fishing-Emergency-Pocket-Kit.htm
3 Yo-Yo automatic fishing reels http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Yo-Yo-Fishing-Reel-Sales.htm
Frog/fish spear http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Fishing-Frog-Spear-Sales.htm
Emergency snare kit, http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Snare-Kits-Emergency-Sales.htm
Compass, http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Lensatic-Compass.htm
The book Six Ways in, Twelve Ways Out http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Book-Six-Ways-In-And-Twelve-Ways-Out-Sales.htm
German mess kit http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Surplus-Mess-Kit-Sales.htm
Small Backpack http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Surplus-Small-Back-Pack-Sales.htm
Blastmaster http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Flint-BlastMaster-Sales.htm
Sewing awl http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Sewing-Awl-Speedy-Stitcher-Sales.htm
PAL light http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Flashlight-PALight-Sales.htm
Regarding firearms, read this article: http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Article-Only-One-Gun.htm If I was in big bear (grizzly and brown bear) country I would switch up to
a 45-70.
:-)
Why the PAL light? Every survivalist should own at least one PAL for every
person. The PAL light takes a 9 volt battery. Now why is that important?
Talking to my
good friend Craig H. from Hawaii, he told me the reason I should have already
known. You see, Craig has lived through 3 hurricanes. After the mad rush
to the store with everyone buying every battery in sight what is the only
battery
still on the shelf? The 9 volt. Think about it: Most people have flashlights
that
use size AAA, AA, C, or D batteries. But I am pretty sure PAL is one of
the few flashlights that uses 9 volt batteries. Also, nearly every house in
America
has smoke detectors using
9 volt batteries. But the feature I love is the always on a real dim light
that last 2 years on 1 battery great for children's night lights, great
for finding in the junk drawer when the power goes out, and great for camping
to quickly
find it in the dark when the bear peeks in your tent. :-) They are
LED lights and you can tape them on your gun and shoot. LED means no
filament to break from the shock of shooting.
We are currently running a special for SurvivalBlog readers only. It
is our way of saying thanks for your support and another way for us to support
Survival Blog. See:
http://www.buckshotscamp.com/survival-blog-specials.htm Regards, -
Buckshot
Hi Jim,
Wasn't sure if you were aware that MEG has come back online with an updated
website to the Rocky Mountain Survival Group (RMSG). His new site is... Survival
and Self Reliance Studies Institute: http://www.ssrsi.org
Glad to see him back. Just found him again week before last. Keep up the good
work on SurvivalBlog. It's one of my favorites. - Richard Fleetwood
http://www.survivalring.org -
The Big Site
http://www.survivalring.org/wordpress - My Personal Blog
http://members.aol.com/rafleet -
My original Blast Shelter Site (moving to http://www.theblastshelter.com )
Jim,
In your Saturday Blog of March 4th. you responded to a reader asking where
to obtain David Crawford's two fine stories. Your answer for "The Bug-Out" was
okay, but your response for "Lights
Out" of Frugal Squirrel's site was not really a good one. Frugal has only
about a quarter of David's story available. The place to go is: http://www.giltweasel.com/stuff/LightsOut-Current.pdf This
will get a full 600 odd page page PDF. document with the full story plus a
title page, table of contents, prolog and epilogue.
Hope that everyone who reads this enjoys it as much as I did. Best Regards,
- Wise Tioga
"The man who does not read good books has no advantage over the man who cannot read them." - Mark Twain
Note from #1 Son: Does anyone know of any Blogger templates that are compatible with Internet Explorer? (For some reason, our blog pages display fine in Netscape and Firefox, but our side bar gets "stacked" beneath everything else when it is displayed in some versions of I.E. Arrrgh!) Any suggestions, folks?
James Wesley Rawles;
I wanted to respond to the letter about how to get your spouse involved in
preparedness. For several years I have been working as a preparedness consultant
for individuals, families and groups who have an interest in preparing for
disasters. I guide each group through a series of exercises to help them decide
how prepared they want, choose and can afford to be.
I like to start with a discussion to see if everyone is on the same page. Sometimes
there are reluctant participants.
I note that one usually learns to craw before they walk and walk before they
run, so there is a learning curve one follows in life and in preparedness there
is also a learning curve. The reluctant participants are in their crawling
or earlier stage and time needs to be given for them to learn to crawl, Possibly
to walk, and possibly to run. They may never get past the crawling stage, but
the opportunity to learn is being given and it is their choice on how far they
want to take it.
So lets start with crawling.
Those of you that have people you care for and are not all that interested
in preparing for disasters need to encourage them to learn about possible disasters
that can affect them. The basics of preparing is fairly common for all types
of disasters with specialization for specific disaster events to be done after
you learn to walk. You need to be patient with them. It has been said that
one of the hardest things to do in life is to watch someone else learn what
you already know/do. You can turn them off if you are too enthusiastic, talk
over their head, overwhelm them with information. You have to let them learn
at their pace and make their own decisions. You can provide them with information
and encouragement to get them started.
So, what information would you provide them?
How about what types of disaster can occur that would affect them?
Set this up as a discussion, have a pad of paper handy to jot down all the possibilities.
Brain storm (anything that comes to mind no questions asked you will sort through
it later) all the possibilities all of you can think of. Here are some examples,
earthquake, tornados, hurricanes, brush fires, floods, train derailment, power
outage,
loss of job, loss of insurance, pandemic, chemical spill at local factory, propane
facility next door catches fire, Nuclear power plant you are down wind from,
Truck drivers strike, Terrorist attack, Nuclear, Biological,Chemical and Explosive
(NBCE), economic meltdown, going
through the tribulation, martial law, dictatorship, gun confiscation/ownership
ban.
OK, now you got a list of possible disasters, be they man made or natural. Now
determine how much of a risk you are in for each of the mentioned disasters.
This may take several days to several weeks to determine. You may have to assign
people to research each disaster
and have several meetings to determine the risk you are in for each.
So lets take earthquake for the example. You live in Ohio and there have been
several small earth quakes in your life time. That does not sound like much of
a risk and then you do some research and find that two of the strongest earth
quakes in US history took place due to the new Madrid fault and you are in the
affected area. Stories of the time talk of the ground rolling like waves on the
sea, whole forest laid over, rivers that ran backward for days . You also learn
of the damage projected for the next new New Madrid Fault quake through your
local Emergency Management Agency (or Office of Emergency Preparedness) also
known
as the Department
of Homeland Security (DHS), and see
you are at significant risk for damage ( your home is brick and they project
high probability of brick homes suffering
major damage including collapse in your area) and a prediction that the next
big one could occur by 2040.
When you get all your information together you meet as a group and discuss all
the findings. You then come to a consensus of how much of a risk you are in for
each disaster.
The group decides there is significant risk for several of the disasters.
They then discuss the possible affects each disaster will have on them.
Again lets take the earthquake. The New Madrid lets go and it disrupts (destroys)
all infrastructure within a 10 state area. Whole cities are believed destroyed
cities like Memphis, Tennessee and St. Louis, Missouri. are mentioned.
Your home is brick and suffers major damage (i.e. Cracked walls, house leaning,
no sewer, water, and electricity.)
What are you going to do?
Again brainstorm out what you are going to do.
Doing this for every listed disaster will again take time.
I have tinkered with the idea of developing a board or role playing as a learning
tool. Play out what your group would do in each of these disasters. It would
be educational and practical. Maybe Rawles can develop it as part of his blog.
After you discuss all this ask the question.
Do you think you should be prepared for disasters?
I have yet to get NO for the answer.
You are now in agreement you need to prepare, but now the question is how prepared
should you be?
The two extremes of preparedness is 1) Do nothing to prepare and 2) The End of
World As We Know It.
It is up to the group to decide how prepared they would like to be. I like to
use Red Cross Preparedness hand outs for the basic (low end) preparedness i.e.
Three day kit , short term preparedness (two weeks or less) and the novel Patriots for
the TEOTWAWKI end of preparedness.
I believe in Patriots as a educational/resource tool so much I bought several
cases of them from the publisher before they went out of business. I still have
several cases left and can offer them to Blog readers if Jim Rawles doesn’t
mind.
This may take the group several days or weeks again to read through the material
and do their own research.
The group gets together and we discuss what they have researched.
They then decide how prepared they want to be.
Their decision then determines their plan of action.
This can be easier said than done when strong minded people are involved or there
is major differenced in opinion. I do not have a good solution to this as it
is up to the group, not me, to make the decisions.
At this stage of preparedness everyone should be “walking”.
I hope you note this takes time.
I have seen groups go through this process in one evening or weekend, but they
already knew they were going to prepare.
Pending on the groups decision I would guide them in developing a plan of action.
The groups found out once they had gotten through the planning stage and were
pointed to suppliers of preparedness items they could go on their own. It was
just to this point they needed help.
As to when one would be running. If they keep to the plan after two or more years.
I have seen groups lose interest or just fall apart in the two to three year
range, so if they stay together for more then three years are on target with
their plans (which are amendable) and continue to prepare and learn they are
up and running.
I mentioned earlier that the basics of disaster preparedness are fairly common,
food clothing, shelter, Medical issues, Three Day Kit (Get Out Of Dodge), Disaster
plan. This works good for the reluctant/unbelieving people as they can see the
need to prepare and if they are not into the TEOTWAWKI scenarios their preparedness
is still leaned in that direction and hopefully in time they will get the picture,
if this is the picture you are striving for. Something I like about taking this
approach is you should not get caught up in the Y2K type
scenarios where you prepare for one scenario (specific date) and if it does not
occur you think preparedness
is for the birds and dump all you preparedness stuff. You will be preparing for
disasters no matter what the cause and when they occur. Preparedness should be
a life time commitment.
The specializing for specific disaster events may include protection from radiation,
biological,chemical events. I am sure there are other events you will have to
specialize for, but this gives you the awareness you need to seek them out and
prepare as you see fit.
I have had groups learn their ability to prepare as they want to be limited by
their means , so you will need to be aware of this in your planning. Some folks
could only get enough together for Get Out of Dodge Kits and firearms for the
family, but it is better than nothing.
I like to use Red Cross hand outs on preparing for disasters. They are available
for download on the Internet and they cover your basic disaster plan. They are
also a neutral organization. The preparedness information is a simple way to
get others to think about preparedness. Hopefully they will prepare even if it
is just the two week supply of materials and a three day kit, this might save
you from having to defend yourself from them and create some allies in defending
the neighborhood and bartering with. I have recommended people get their hand
outs and put them in their three day kits, so they can either pull them out as
a reference or if stopped by authorities just mention you are following your
disaster plan you put together with the handouts to hopefully blend in with the
other refugees.
Something I have done for family members is give them preparedness items as gifts,
birthdays, Christmas, etc. These include first aid and three day kits for all
the cars, Baygen radios and flash lights, power inverters, books on disaster
preparedness, self defense items. Hopefully this shows you care about them, gives
them something to think about and you can get into discussion on more involved
preparedness issues. Remember, It is better to go slowly and let them determine
what they are comfortable with than turn them off by overwhelming them with information
and your beliefs in preparedness. - R.A.
Mr Rawles:
Thanks for your review of The Weapon. I get a lot of feedback on it, regarding
the risks of attack and terrorism. I'm glad to see people thinking about
the subject more.
Currently, I'm gearing up to do a nonfiction work about medics in combat in
the current conflict. If any of the SurvivalBlog readers are or know anyone
who is, do please have them contact me. I've got approval from the various
branches
public
affairs, and I'm Guard myself. I'll be treating the subject and troops as they
deserve to be, and not looking to misquote for headlines. This is an anecdotal
history.
It's true that soft body armor will stop 12 gauge slug and .44 magnum rounds.
However, there's an asterisk here. The armor can deform up to THREE INCHES
from a 12 gauge slug. The blunt trauma itself can be lethal under those circumstances.
One of the common complaints of the Interceptor Body Armor is shoulder chafing
and pinching of the abdomen when lying prone. My wife just returned from a
year on active duty, and didn't have this problem. She ordered her armor a
size large and it had enough extra space to disperse the load. This also offers
a gap against the above mentioned blunt trauma. Of course, it also increases
carried weight. There is no free lunch.
www.theboxotruth.com covers a lot of comparison shoots of different weapons
in different media. One important note is the myth that a .308 "turns
cover into concealment." If the material is timber, sandbags or brick,
this is pretty much not true. There are ballistic reasons for this, but they're
lengthy. The test shots are shown. On sandbags, both 7.62 NATO and
5.56 penetrate 5 inches or so and STOP. 5.56mm will penetrate 12" of pine
and still have energy to spare. Upshot: bullets kill, and you want hard cover
and lots of
it for yourself, and a target that isn't in hard cover.
I cleaned out an old BOB last month that had been in three vehicles over 20
years. I ate some MREs packaged in 1980-1983. The applesauce had turned brown
and wasn't interesting, so I tossed it, but I believe it was still safe. All
other components were edible and tasty. I can't speak as to the remaining nutritional
value, but I suffered no ill effects. These MREs had cycled seasonally from
well over 100 degrees down to sub zero. It seems as long as the packages aren't
swelling, the contents are safe.
Another option for firearms with no paperwork are black powder reproductions
with aftermarket cylinders. The 1858 and 1860 models, among others by Uberti,
Pietta and Ruger, can be equipped with a .45 Long Colt cylinder (or .38 Special).
www.taylorsfirearms.com is one source of these. It has to be removed, opened
and manually extracted/loaded, but you get 6 completely legal shots with no
paperwork. Price for a revolver and extra cylinder runs around $400. I also
think it wouldn't be too hard to load black powder into a small plastic pouch
made from sandwich bag polyethylene, sealed with epoxy. A single dessicant
pellet might be a good idea. Such a load would last several weeks at least
in the weapon, possibly years. The percussion cap should have enough power
to puncture the plastic and ignite the propellant. Again, completely legal
and paperwork free, if labor intensive. I will attempt to conduct a range test
shortly. I expect cleaning the cylinder will be a bit of a chore, but it's
a good idea to have spares anyway. Best wishes, and keep your powder dry. -
Mike
"It does not do to leave a live dragon out of your calculations, if you live near him." - J. R. R. Tolkien
Note from JWR: We were hoping to provide searchable archives
and RSS feeds. However, because of difficulties in getting our revised blog
template (created in Blogger) to
display
properly
in some
versions
of
Internet Explorer, we have temporarily switched back to the old blog format
(using Dreamweaver.) Firefox
and Netscape worked fine, but the glitches in I.E. thusfar elude us. Once
we get the bugs worked out, we will switch back to Blogger or perhaps another
piece of blogging software.
Today we feature another entry in Round 3 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best contest entry will win a four day course certificate at Front Sight. The deadline for entries for Round 3 is March 31, 2006.
If there were one factor that prevents people from living at their retreat
more than any other, I would guess it to be employment. This isn't surprising,
as the very qualities that make a particular locale ideal for a retreat --
rural, small population, away from major cities -- also make it far less
likely to find employment there. What little employment is available is often
snapped up by locals who have been around far longer than any Johnny-come-lately
carpetbaggers (and rightly so!)
When my family moved to our tiny town from our fairly large city, I knew from
Day 1 not to expect to find a job locally. Not only would it be difficult for
the reasons listed above, but frankly, I would be more of an asset to the community
if I brought in employment of my own. Working for yourself can be very scary,
but there are ways to mitigate the risks involved. First, of course, is figuring
out what you can do. Not infrequently, you can continue to do exactly what
you're doing right now.
Much office work for example -- from data entry to technical support to accounting
-- can be done from nearly any location. Your employer may be
willing to let you telecommute; this is particularly true if your current employer
considers you a valuable asset (in other words, if you *haven't*
been just doing the bare minimum for them over the last 10 years!)
An additional temptation to throw to your current employer: offer to become
a contractor. This will save your employer a great deal in benefits and paperwork,
and may make it worth the risk for him/her to try you as a telecommuter. There
can also be tax benefits for you (talk to your CPA.)
It needn't be an ultimatum or otherwise confrontational. Simply say, "I
have the opportunity to move somewhere I've always wanted to live. But I value
my relationship with (your company) and want to know if perhaps there's something
we can work out." Again, if you've been a valuable employee
in the past, your employer may prefer to work things out with you rather than
take the risk (and expense) of hiring a new employee. On the other hand, what
if you don't have an office job, or your employer won't compromise? Well, rural
environments are always in need of basic services. If you've got experience
as a backhoe operator, construction
worker, plumber, vet, lawyer, electrician or similar, you won't have any difficulties
developing a client base. Low-investment service companies are
best, simply because you won't have to tie too much of your assets up in equipment
or inventory.
If you're still stuck, you might need to change careers to something that can
translate to your retreat locale. Consider taking a night class or two (real
estate, perhaps?) each semester at your local community college. It might take
you years to earn a degree, but so what? After all, if you don't do it, in
five years you'll simply be exactly where you are now, saying, "Gosh,
I wish I had a skill that would let me earn money while living at my retreat." (For
those who want to earn a living farming: it can be done, but not easily. Farmers
make very little income for the amount of work they do. If you do want to live
off your homestead, I'd recommend finding a niche
market, like selling organic herbs, produce, eggs or honey. Health-conscious
consumers generally have very little problem paying a premium for quality
products.)
A word of warning, however: regardless of your business, it can take up to
a year to develop a local following. The first year my computer repair
business was open, I had perhaps a total of three local clients. But
after that year, it was as though I had passed some secret probation, and locals
began regularly
using my services. So either have enough money to get through a year without
any business, or make sure you bring some clients with you (as in contracting
with your former employer).
Incidentally, rural life tends to move more slowly than urban life. In many
ways this is a good thing, but it has its drawbacks. For example, we often
find it difficult to get quotes for jobs we need done. Companies can take days
or weeks to call us back when we leave messages. Take advantage of
this. If you act professionally, courteously, and are prompt and fair with
your prices, you'll soon have more business than you can handle.
Network, network, network. Local advertising of your business or service is
fine, but people prefer word-of-mouth referral. This is best achieved by
finding the most upstanding local citizens you can, and offering them your
services at a discount, or as a free trial. If you can get a few community
leaders to refer others to you, you're golden. Speaking of networking, you
may want to look into partnering with larger companies. Computer service technicians,
for example, can get certified with certain computer companies, resulting in
warranty-work referrals. If you do small engine repair, get certified with
chainsaw or lawnmower companies, and so on. Once you're an authorized repair
technician (and there's a good chance you'll be the only one within a hundred
miles), these companies will
refer their warranty work to you. Result: good income and a good opportunity
to build your name within the community.
Finally, before you start (and I can't stress this enough), set up an appointment
with a CPA or tax lawyer and discuss the prospective business. It probably
won't be cheap, but it is definitely worth it. You'll be able to discuss the
pros and cons of incorporating (inc. or LLC)
versus a sole proprietorship, look at the tax advantages and disadvantages,
and so on. Ask your CPA/Lawyer
to help you set up your accounting books (I recommend Quickbooks or Peachtree)
to make tax time as painless as possible. (Don't forget, contractors need to
submit estimated taxes on a quarterly basis - failure to do so can result in
penalties). I hope this helps you realize that achieving your dream of living
at your retreat year-round isn't as impossible as you might have thought. Good
luck! - JD
Jim:
I came across some links that may help "clarify" why Gold/Silver
for some readers. Keep up the good work!
http://www.bambooweb.com/articles/h/y/Hyperinflation.html
http://www.kitco.com/ind/Wiegand/feb142006.html
http://www.gold-eagle.com/editorials_03/waltzek091003.html
http://inflationdata.com/Inflation/Inflation_Rate/ConfederateInflation.asp
Hello Mr. Rawles,
Had a question that you might be able to answer. Looking to do some preserving
of wood that will be stuck in the ground. I used to work for a telephone pole
repair company. We used a very plastic Creosote and Tar paper ( keeps dirt
from soaking up the creosote ). I have been trying to figure out a way to create
an alternative to creosote. The best I can think of is used motor oil and soap
( gas and soap being napalm ) this seemed logical to me. Wondered if you had
any thought. Also other uses for used oil might be a good topic. Thanks much,
- E.B. in N. Idaho
JWR Replies: The best alternative to creosote that I have
found is a product called asphalt emulsion. It goes on like thick paint. It
is a bit
messy, but
works great.
If your local hardware store doesn't have any in stock, they can order it for
you. It usually comes in five gallon pails.
Jim:
The first two weeks of February were spectacular for us hams
working the 6 meter band. From my home in Northern California, I worked all
western states
using only 10 watts on an Icom IC-560. No power amplifier was needed.
One QSO [two way conversation]
that I did lasted for 30 minutes to a gentleman right outside of Tombstone
Arizona on 52.525 Mhz FM [mode]. What was so unusual about
this, is that is was not in SSB mode.
The QSO was nearly as good as a local 2 meter simplex contact. The gentleman
was using an Alinco FM-only mobile radio with
20 watts into a ground
plane antenna. Signals from as far away as Chicago were coming in on some
of the days on 50.125 Mhz SSB. There is a reason
6 meters is know as the "magic
band." I filled up three pages of contacts from Canada to New Mexico
and
all
states in between. Some contact were to mobile stations. One in Twin Falls,
Idaho
to a gentleman driving his truck. The most popular [6 meter] rig seems to be
the
Icom
706.
Openings like this make me glad to be a ham and enjoy the unique 6 meter band
then any other band. It was an extremely thrilling few weeks.
Best Regards, - Fred The Valmet-meister
"I used to visit and revisit it a dozen times a day, and stand in deep contemplation over my vegetable progeny with a love that nobody could share or conceive of who had never taken part in the process of creation. It was one of the most bewitching sights in the world to observe a hill of beans thrusting aside the soil, or a rose of early peas just peeping forth sufficiently to trace a line of delicate green." - Nathaniel Hawthorne, Mosses from and Old Manse
Note From JWR: Please continue to spread the word about SurvivalBlog. Please mention the blog whenever you call in to talk radio shows or when you are on podcasts. Thanks!
James,
I live in the Pacific Northwest, in an urban area and in the event of TEOTWAWKI,
my wife and I will most likely bug out and retreat to a friend's ranch just
outside our urban growth boundary. The location is not ideal, but better
than us attempting to retreat in place. The ranch is somewhat hidden and
has a few acres of cleared fields around the house. My friend is retired
and his immediate family will probably reside there too. He's got a large
house and there will be eight adults and two children living together. I'm
a firearms collector and shooter and have a decent collection of defensive
and hunting tools, a la Dan Fong [a well-armed character in the novel Patriots],
but I don't have enough duplicates to outfit the group with a "standard".
I was thinking of outfitting the group with one defensive pistol and battle
rifle or carbine
per person
and a shotgun
per couple, regardless of their current personal firearms battery. I figure
my outlay could range from ~$13K to ~$40K, or the price of a compact to mid-size
car depending on make and "best" or "no-frills" features
selection. As this is a major expense that will compete with my food and medical
supply acquisition, I'd like to know your thoughts on firearms acquisition
in relation to other necessities.
1. What is your thoughts on the ratio of battle rifles to carbines? In your
book, you left the selection to the individual retreat member.
2. Should I acquire the "best" weapons I can afford and make due
with "adequate" food and medical provisions? Or do I acquire "no-frills",
reliable firearms and splurge on food and medical supplies?
3. What are your thoughts on some of the "no-frills" firearms suppliers
and makes out there like the Rock Island, Springfield or Charles Daly M1911 .45 pistols, Bushmaster, Stag AR-15 5.56mm or CETME .308 cal rifles and Mossberg
590 or Maverick 12 gauge pump shotguns?
Thanks, - Collector
JWR Replies: Standardization of defensive weapons is a worthy goal. As previousl\y stated in this blog and in my other writings, standardization results in commonality of training, commonality of magazines, commonality of stored ammunition, and commonality of spare parts. It is a "win-win" in many ways!
1. For defending a fixed location, your should standardize with .308 Winchester for your rifles. The only advantage of .223 is that the rifles weigh less and you can carry more ammunition. These are only meaningful factors for long distance patrols. If weight is not an issue, why not standardize with a full-power cartridge? Since a CETME can be purchased for less than the cost of an AR-15 clone or about the same as a Ruger Mini-14, and magazines for CETMEs are far less expensive (under $3 each), I would forego buying any .223s and buy all .308 CETMEs. Here at the Rawles Ranch we have nine .308s (mostly L1A1s) and just one .223. (It is an "M4gery" that I built on a pre-ban receiver.) The latter is strictly a transitional training gun for our children. I don't consider it a serious man-stopping rifle. I think that you should only get .223s for any of your group members that are under 16 or that are too frail to handle the weight and recoil of a .308.
2.) I recommend buying "no frills" guns to start. Balanced purchasing is important. What good is a full-up defensive battery if you only have a few weeks of food storage and scant first aid supplies? You can always upgrade later.
3.) I think that the following "group standard" should make sense: CETME .308 rifles (one per adult), Mossberg 590s (one for each two or three adults), and Springfield Armory .45 ACP M1911 clones (one per adult), will make a fully adequate no frills battery. A few years down the road, as your budget permits, you can transition to more top of the line guns such as HK-91s and perhaps Springfield Armory XD .45 ACPs or stainless steel original Colt or Kimber M1911s.
Two interesting articles on Ethanol: http://finance.yahoo.com/columnist/article/trenddesk/2591 and http://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/2006/02/06/8367959/index.htm
o o o
I heard that there are now just two slots left open for the Tactical Lifesaver course. It will be held on April 15-16, 2006, in Douglas, Georgia. A Iraq war vet Physician's Assistant (PA) will teach you a lot of skills that the American Red Cross doesn't. (Such as: how to prep an intravenous infusion, how to insert and orthopharyngeal airway, wound debridement, suturing, how to treat a sucking chest wound, and much more.) Don't hesitate. This course will be sold out, soon! See: http://www.survivalreportblog.com/Tactical_Lifesaver_Course.html
o o o
A gent e-mailed to ask where he could find the freeware e-novels Lights Out and The Bug-Out, by David Crawford (a.k.a. "Halffast"). Lights Out is hosted at: http://www.giltweasel.com/stuff/LightsOut-Current.pdf The Bug Out was serialized at The Claire Files: http://www.tcftalk.com/clairefiles/index.php?topic=8160.0
o o o
Robert McHugh on "The Ides of March" See: http://www.safehaven.com/article-4676.htm
"Since printing paper money is nothing short of counterfeiting, the issuer of the international currency must always be the country with the military might to guarantee control over the system. This magnificent scheme seems the perfect system for obtaining perpetual wealth for the country that issues the de facto world currency. The one problem, however, is that such a system destroys the character of the counterfeiting nation's people--just as was the case when gold was the currency and it was obtained by conquering other nations. And this destroys the incentive to save and produce, while encouraging debt and runaway welfare.
The artificial demand for our dollar, along with
our military might, places us in the unique position to 'rule' the world without
productive work or savings, and without limits on consumer spending or deficits.
The problem is, it can't last.
Price inflation is raising its ugly head, and the NASDAQ bubble-- generated
by easy money-- has burst. The housing bubble likewise created is deflating.
Gold prices have doubled, and federal spending is out of sight with zero political
will to rein it in. The trade deficit last year was over $728 billion. A $2
trillion war is raging, and plans are being laid to expand the war into Iran
and possibly Syria. The only restraining force will be the world's rejection
of the dollar. It's bound to come and create conditions worse than 1979-1980,
which required 21% interest rates to correct." - Texas Congressman Ron
Paul, February, 2006
Note from JWR: If you know of any potential advertisers
for SurvivalBlog, please give them a call or drop them a line to encourage
them. I need to find about 20
more advertisers
if I'm going to be able to put bread on the table when I quit my day
job and take up writing SurvivalBlog full time. (Starting next month.) And
needless to say,
a few more "10
Cent Challenge" contributions would also be greatly appreciated.
Today we feature another entry in Round 3 of the SurvivalBlog
non-fiction writing contest. This article is a first hand report about a
Revolutionary War Veterans Association (RWVA)
shoot
in Ramseur, North Carolina. The
writer
of
the
best
contest
entry
will
win
a four day course certificate at Front
Sight. The deadline for entries for Round
3 in the writing contest is March 31, 2006.
An organized rifle-shooting event can be intimidating to anyone who has never
participated before. I’ll cover my experience as a newbie at this first
Appleseed Shoot in several categories: First Timers Pre-shoot Preparation,
What to Expect Upon Arrival, Lessons Learned, and What is the Next Step? My
experience and what I took away from the shoot, and lastly, Regrets.
First Timer Pre-Shoot Preparation: Remember what the title of the shoot implies,
Appleseed. The purpose of the shoot is to plant the seeds of knowledge into
those that have never before been formally trained in rifle marksmanship skills.
This is not a competition, but a formal instructional course and the only person
one is competing with is oneself, not the person beside you on the firing line.
Equipment: Regardless of the type rifle you choose to take, check the function
of the weapon. Make sure your rifle, especially if it has been sitting in the
closet for a long time, is cleaned and in good working order. If possible,
go to a range and casually put ammo down range to make sure that it is functionally
reliable. This will not guarantee you won’t have problems, but it makes
sure you start off with no unknown problems. If your rifle has a mechanical
problem or potential problem with a magazine you can fix it before you are
at the shoot. Naturally, use known good magazines if you use detachable magazines.
As for your equipment, from safety equipment to weapon and accouterments, double-check
their condition. If you aren’t a regular match shooter you will need
a mat to lay on. One fellow had a really good idea of using an exercise mat.
You don’t need to run out and get a fancy shooting mat. My wife used
two military surplus ground pads.
Ammo: I took at least 200 rounds of ammo for each rifle for the single day
I attended. I didn’t use all of my ammo for reasons I’ll get into
later. But one can figure 200 rounds should get you through the entire basic
course on the first day. There was daylight enough left so that those who chose
to could go to the second range in Ramseur and engage the pop up targets. This
naturally will require more ammo. But I was advised that 200 should do the
first timer for the instructional phase of the first day. If you plan to attend
both days, and I strongly urge you to do so, then figure your total at about
300 rounds as a good ‘guestimate’. It is better to leave the range
with ammo to spare than to run out and become a spectator. Rifle marksmanship
is not a spectator sport. One very important point about ammo; be sure it is
all the same type and manufacturer. One fellow shooter was having problems
with groupings and he discovered that he was using mixed types of ammo on the
same stripper clips. So make sure your ammo is consistent in quality, type
and manufacturer. But you don’t buy match grade ammo. For this class
good surplus, but reliable, "ball" ammo will do you quite well.
You: If you are like most of us you aren’t going to run any Olympic marathons.
If I tried, I would just fall apart. But you should do some simple things before
going to the shoot. To maximize your efforts, as well as preventing undue stress
on your body do some simple things to prepare you for a day of physical activity.
You will be prone a lot. And you will be getting up and down from prone as
well as from the sitting position…a lot. If you can not get into a prone
position, or sitting position easily then start limbering up now by practicing
some each day. You don’t have to train like a football player, but simply
preparing your body for repeatedly getting up and down off the ground will
make you more comfortable and not as tired by the end of the day. Fess up gang,
we are all couch potatoes to a greater or lesser extent, and we shouldn’t
be. But comforts being as they are, it is difficult to get motivated to exercise.
I am guilty as charged.
How long before the shoot to prepare: This depends on the individual person.
If you have a ‘Minute Man’ setup, which most of us don’t
then make your equipment checks at least a weekend before you attend the Appleseed Shoot. This will give you time to gather the equipment, if you are like
me, that you have stuffed in various places or moved around. I suggest to function
check weapons in plenty of time ahead to make sure if you find out something
needs repair you can get it fixed well beforehand. Gather your ‘to go’ equipment
in one place and make sure your ammo is included along with any cleaning materials.
Be set so that when it is time to go all you have to do is get the weapons
out of their storage place and the rest of your gear and walk out the door.
BTW if you don’t have a little plastic empty chamber flag, it would be
a good idea to stop by a gun store and pick up one for each weapon you take.
These flags help the range officers to immediately recognize that a weapon
is made safe. At Ramseur they did not require them, but my wife and I used
one just for safety's sake. Now the other locations for the Appleseed shoots
may or may not require them. But I like them when in the company of strangers.
It’s good etiquette.
What to expect upon arrival: Each shoot location may vary a bit in procedure,
but you can expect the following: Expect to be met by a bunch of very helpful
range officers. My wife and I were greeted in the parking lot when we pulled
up by a fellow with earphone on in ‘Mickey Mouse’ position and
a big grin. He directed us to the location to check in and we were shown to
our positions on the line. Because our arrival was a bit later than we wanted
a position with my wife and I side by side was not available. This actually
works out a lot better and if you and your spouse are attending then try to
separate. If you and your spouse are together then one has the tendency to
ask questions of the other. So by separating, each spouse is independent to
ask questions to the range officers, and figure things out for themselves.
My wife commented on the way back home that she figured out what to do without
asking me. She said this with a lot of pride, not that I am a whiz kid, but
she gained a greater confidence in her abilities than if I had been beside
her. And the same will apply if you have kids going with you. It is a liberating
experience when you learn on your own, or follow the instructions given and
get the results the instructor says you will get.
You will be given instructional handouts that will help you when you leave
to review the main points that are covered during the class.
Lessons Learned:What you learn is how to shoot ‘by the numbers’.
This is taught as a way of organizing your mind as to what you have to do to
make a good shot. And although I have been shooting for years there was a lot
of ‘numbers’ I skipped. After all I was shooting for fun. But this
is a different type of shooting. It is fun, but it is structured. And that
structure, if you continue to practice, becomes second nature. And when it
becomes second nature you become more accurate and you don’t have to ‘think’ about
how to make a good shot, you do it naturally and consistently. You will learn
all the shooting positions of standing, prone, sitting, etc. And there is more
to it than just plopping down on the ground. You will learn techniques that
will help y