Everyone seems to have their own opinions about what are the best items to keep on hand for post-TEOTWAWKI bartering. I did mention a large variety of barter items in the Barter Faire chapter of my novel Patriots (The chapter titled: "For an Ounce of Gold.") Of course many of the same items are important to keep on hand to dispense as charity.
Since two heads are better than one, and by extension 5,000 heads are better than two, I'm taking a poll: Please e-mail me your lists of preferred barter and charity items, and I will gladly post them.
My personal
favorites
are:
.22 Long Rifle rimfire ammo
1 oz. bottles of military rifle bore cleaner
Waterproof duffle bags ("dry bags")
Thermal socks
Semi-waterproof matches (from military MRE rations)
Military web gear (lots of folks will *suddenly* need pistol belts, holsters,
magazine pouches, et cetera.)
Pre-1965 U.S. silver dimes
1 gallon cans of kerosene
1 pound canisters of salt (may be worth plenty in inland areas)
Small bottles of two cycle gas mixing oil (for chainsaw fuel)
Rolls of olive drab parachute cord
Rolls of olive drab duct tape
Spools of monofilament fishing line
Rolls of 10 mil "Visqueen" sheet plastic (for replacing windows, etc.)
I also respect the opinion of one gentleman with whom I've corresponded, who
recommended the following: Strike anywhere matches.
Playing cards.
Cooking spices.
Rope and string.
Sewing supplies.
Candle wax/wick.
Again, I would greatly appreciate seeing your barter and charity item lists. Please e-mail me your lists and I will post them in the next few days.
When building a homemade fallout shelter in a basement, or on a cement
slab inside the first floor, it is important to understand halving
thickness and protection
factors.
First of all, after a nuclear detonation, there will be light, heat, and a blast
wave. This essay assumes that you will be out of that target area, with your
home and roof intact. If you are close to targets, you may need better shelter
than this improvised model. At the end of this essay I will list a few sources
showing target maps, fallout maps, blast areas, etc.
Fallout is the mixture of the dirt and materials at the site of the blast, all
mixed up with radioactive material. Every single piece is radioactive. Near the
blast it can fall out like gravel, then farther away like rice grains, then like
sand,
and
then like fine powder. And every fallout particle is sending out gamma rays.
You need to take almost immediate shelter for the gamma radiation from fallout.
Gamma
rays
are
part of the electromagnetic spectrum, like radio waves and X-rays and light.
If you picture the fallout landing on trees and the ground being like tiny little
light bulbs, you realize that even in a basement there will be dim, indirect
light. If your basement walls stick up a couple feet above the ground level,
there will be lots of little light bulbs all along the edge of the basement shining
at you. As light and radio waves reflect off the atmosphere, in the same way
the gamma rays scatter off the air. Little light bulbs will land on trees and
the roof. You want to dim/block them as much as possible, on all four sides and
overhead.
HALVING THICKNESS:
A halving thickness is the amount of material that will block half of the gamma
rays passing through it. Any mass will block them, whether lead or feathers,
sand or chocolate bars, as long as you have enough mass. You can use all of your
survival foods and other items to add extra shielding.
Here is a list of materials and their approximate halving thicknesses. (References
differ slightly when listing these figures.)
2.2” concrete
3.5” sand or dirt
4.4” water
8.8” wood
0.7”steel
7” books or magazines
4”hollow concrete blocks
3.2” red bricks
5” broken anthracite coal
5” wet peat moss
Here is where many items you are storing up can contribute to shielding. [JWR
Adds: If in sealed containers, these foodstuffs will still
be safe to consume after shelter emergence if any residual fallout
dust
is
first washed off
of the exterior
of the container.]
7” sugar
7” navy or soy beans
7” butter or oil
7” shelled corn
7” wheat
7” potatoes
7” rice
12” coffee beans
9” apples
Now, one layer of any item above will block half the gamma rays. That
is 1/2, which is called a protection factor (PF)
of 2 (read only the denominator of the fraction). 1/2
of the rays are hitting you, 1/2 are blocked. By adding one more halving thickness,
you block half of the remaining gamma rays, so now 1/4 are hitting
you. So you have a protection factor (PF) of 4. Another layer blocks
1/2 of that remaining 1/2 of the radiation, so that means only 1/8
of the original total outside radiation is hitting you, and you have
a PF
of 8.
A fourth layer of anything listed above blocks half of that 1/8 radiation still
entering, so now we only have 1/16 of the outside gamma rays hitting our body.
( PF 16)
5 layers= PF 32
6 layers=PF 64
7 layers=PF 128
8 layers=PF 256
9 layers=PF 512
10 layers=PF 1024
Now, how much of a PF do you need? The answer involves how much gamma
radiation, or rads/ Roentgens, are in the fallout outside your house.
They are called “R”. The less R the
better. 50 in one day is considered the most you can safely handle, or 10 a
day for a
week, or 100 over the course of two weeks. So your shelter must not let you
get more than 100 R in two weeks. (It is far safer to get none or almost none.)
So, how many R will be outside after bombs, and how does PF relate? The
first question depends on where you are and where the bombs are, how big the
bombs
are, and where the wind is blowing. If you are 25 miles from
a total
of two megatons blowing your direction, during the course of two weeks there
will about 4,500 R total outside. If 200 Russian bombs go off nationwide,
the East
coast can easily get 20,000 R outside during two weeks. If you are 25 miles
from a target that might get four big bombs you could easily have 20,000 R
outside. Suitcase
nukes would produce much less fallout. You have to decide if you expect limited
suitcase nukes, a limited Russian strike with MIRVs
(several bombs on one target area equaling one megaton total), or a “real” nuclear
war with perhaps hundreds of big bombs of two or more megatons each. Sources
below
show fallout possibility maps.
Now, how does PF relate to the R outside?
Remember that the bottom denominator of the fraction is the PF, telling you
what fraction of the fallout (R) is hitting you. A PF of 2 means half of it
is hitting
you. A PF of 16 means 1/16 of it is hitting you. A PF of 100 means only 1/100
is hitting you.
If it is 20,000 R total outside during two weeks, you don’t want to get
more than 100 R, so you need a PF of 200. Makes sense? Divide the R by the
PF. 20,000 divided by 200=100. If one 2 megaton bomb detonates near you, and
the
R over two weeks is 4,000, what PF do you need to only get 100 R? 4,000 divide
by what equals 100? Answer is 40.So, a shelter with a PF of only 40 can save
your life. This is the FEMA minimum
standard. PF 200 is much safer. The ideal is PF 1,000, which equals about 3
feet of dirt or sand, or 22” of cement.
STRIVE TO GET AS CLOSETO A PF 1000 AS YOU CAN, OR AT THE VERY LEAST
A PF 200.
Now the basement shelter should have a PF 1000 on all four sides. If you cover
the exposed sides of the basement, outside, up and over the ceiling level,
with ten layers of the halving thickness chart items (3 feet of sand or 4 feet
of
hollow concrete blocks) your basement will have an automatic PF of 10. That
means 90% of the fallout is already blocked, and you need to only get a PF
of 100 on
the four inside walls and overhead for a total PF of 1000. That means seven
layers of the materials listed above.
4 feet thick of old magazines and paper will work. Stagger some water barrels.
You can get 5 gallon buckets of wheat and rice and beans, and stagger them
so there is 4 feet total of wheat and beans on the sides. About 5 feet of wood
works
too. Personally, I think the 7 foot thick wall of coffee is a good idea.
The hardest part is the overhead shielding. A basement support with
10.5” of sand 3.5x3) has three halving thicknesses or a PF of
8. Add one more layer and you are up to PF 16. My first and second
floor and roof are at least another halving thickness for a PF of 32.
(This is easily done with the steel shelving units at Home Depot that
hold 2,000 lbs per each top shelf (20 cubic feet of sand): with two
units that is a foot of sand over 40 square feet. [this was my method,
but I don’t trust the specs and used more supports per cubic
foot.] Or make your own supports with 4x4’s, or cinder blocks
with 1/2 inch plywood. Try to get 4 layers ( PF 16) overhead, using
sand, or maybe some cinder blocks with a waterbed on top of that. Hopefully
the house floors and roof will then get you to PF 32.)
As soon as the bombs go off, you pile 7” of books and wheat and
beans on the first floor directly overhead. That gives you a PF of
64. (The overhead PF of 32-64 will save your life if all four sides
are PF 1000, even if fallout is severe.) Better to pile on more stuff
though, another 7” of stuff- plenty of your cans and heavy items.
Anything with mass. That gives you a PF of 128 just from last minute
living room piles. This is for a worst case scenario. But if
we have a limited strike, the fallout will be far less for most of
us. Even
one waterbed overhead
on the first floor, with 9” of water,
gives a PF of 4. That means you get 1/4 of the initial radiation. If
it is 600 R overhead, with no shelter you will get severely ill and
might die. Just using the waterbed over the basement with basement
walls covered up outside all the way up, means that you get 150 R and
will be basically OK.
So, the moral of this story is, start now and do what you can. Don’t
feel like it is useless to only do a little, if you can’t do
a perfect shelter. Do what you can now and build up the shielding as
you get money. Start with a foot on all sides, and try and get to 18”.
Then go for two feet next summer. Think about your stash of preps and
books, and what can go overhead on the first floor. Mark off the first
floor spot that will have last
minute cans and buckets and books. Clear the basement area, and get
the flashlights and bedding ready. Try really, really, hard to do something
in the basement- overhead- now, even an old table you can lie down
under covered with cans and buckets.
Sources:
You can find lots of useful information here: http://www.radshelters4u.com/,
including a free download of Nuclear War Survival Skills,
and all sorts of maps
and diagrams.
Our favorite book for basement shelters is J Allan South’s “The
Sense of Survival.” This wonderful little chart compares the
mass of many items. Use sand and dirt as your standard for a halving
thickness,
and you can see
how various things like beans and wheat and wood compare. http://www.reade.com/Particle_Briefings/spec_gra2.html
JWR Adds: I consider a home fallout shelter a must for
anyone
that is serious about preparedness. The end of the Cold War--culminating
with the breakup
of
the
former
Soviet
Union--significantly increased the risk of the use of nuclear weapons.
(Since
traditional nation
states are are much more responsible with their toys than are rogue states or
terrorist
groups.) Two SurvivalBlog advertisers (Safe
Castle and Ready
Made Resources) offer prefabricated shelters as well as consulting on shelter
construction and HEPA air filtration
systems. Also,
be sure to read the extensive information on fallout shelter design, construction
and ventilation available
for
free
download
at
Dr.
Arthur B. Robinson's Oregon
Institute of Science and Medicine web site.
Jim:
I just discovered these cool "Hit and Miss" gas engines made
in the 1920s and 1930s by Maytag. They were used to power washing machines.
Very simple engine; maybe one horsepower. You start it with a foot
pedal that leverages a gear to spin the crankshaft to get it going. What a
wonderful
little
engine for a remote location. These could be used to power the
washing machine or even run a small generator to charge up a bank
of 12 volt batteries. I noticed that there are currently several
for sale on eBay and they even have leather drive belts for them
and water pumps. Could
be
used
to
fill up a water tank for gravity feed. - Fred
"It does not require a majority to prevail, but rather an irate, tireless minority keen to set brush fires in people’s minds." - Samuel Adams
In response to the excellent article, "The Micro-Farm Tractor", I have to say my best bet for all-around small farm tool would be the diesel all terrain vehicle (ATV). ATVs have quickly infiltrated into many farms today, as haulers, sprayers, snowplows, transport, and so on. You can purchase many available farm accessories that make it into the equivalent of a mini-tractor, as well has many hunting related accessories, since they appeal to the hunter's market as well, like gun racks, camo, storage, and essential noise-cutting mufflers (very effective units can be had at Cabela's). I would suggest a diesel unit, since they are longer lasting, more reliable, and you can use stored (for several years with proper preservation) or improvised diesel (biodiesel.) I was out elk hunting last year in foul weather and I immediately saw the advantage hunters had getting around in the muck with an ATV. If we had actually taken an elk, we would have had to spend all weekend hauling pieces of it out! (In a way we were glad we didn't get one where we were hunting, seven miles down a mucky old road, with steep hills to the right and a steep ravine to the left). With an ATV, we could have gotten a whole animal out in one or two goes, with a lot less slogging in the muck. Just make sure you've got a winch, and maybe even a come-along. Also, many of the hunters were able to cruise with an ATV on trails that would (and have) gotten me stuck in the mud. To sum it up, I plan on purchasing one or two as soon as our move to a few acres of rural property in southern utah is completed early next year to use as my mini-tractor, hunting companion, snowplower, all-around hauler and 4 wheel drive short distance transport. - Dustin
JWR Replies: In addition to biodiesel, you can also legally use home heating oil if operating off road. (The only significant differences between diesel and home heating oil are the "no tax cheating" added dye and the standard for ash content.) There are several options for diesel-powered ATVs. These include:
The Kawasaki Mule. See: http://www.atvsource.com/manufacturers/kawasaki/2003/mule_3010_diesel.htm
and,
The John Deere Gator. See: http://off-road.com/atv/reviews/quads/gator-2003_02/
(The U.S. Army Special Forces uses John Deere Gators, but I'm not sure if that's because they are the best ones made, or just because of a "Buy American" contracting clause. Perhaps one of our SurvivalBlog readers in SOCOM can comment on their opinion of the Gators.
Note: Polaris also made a diesel quad back around 2002, but they were reportedly problematic, so they were quickly discontinued.
Jim,
Per the letter from the Blog reader regarding CONEX containers- Yes
they are a great way to store bulk supplies at your retreat. I've been
using them for almost eight years now and have noticed several things
when using them.
First, try to get one made of "COR-TEN" steel. My father
has years of metalworking experience and pointed out one of ours that
is
made of COR-TEN. It reputedly holds up better. I've seen a noticeable
difference in the one COR-TEN we have compared to several others not
made of it.
You might want to weigh the difference in cost between finding one
locally or buying one closer to the coast and preferably a major seaport
where they will be cheaper. Shipping costs being the deciding factor,
as well as condition of container. We've never paid more than $1,500
for a 40 foot container and you can find them for around $1,000. if
you shop around. Keep in mind most places will just give you a general
quote on the phone. You want to go to their yard and check one out
for yourself, make sure the doors close and latch properly, climb up
on the roof, and inspect closely for holes.
Figure out EXACTLY where you want it dropped, unless you have heavy
equipment- and I don't mean a small tractor- you will not be moving
it from that position.
Go to the junkyard and get four to six old metal tire rims. Put them
down on the corners below the container. It will help air circulate
a little
bit
under it. We've had problems with moisture coming up from the ground
in to two of the units. Doing this helped the problem immensely.
Readers should plan to ventilate the containers, as you mentioned,
even if it's just for storage. They get very hot. Might not be an issue
up North, but it is here in the South.
Re: Use as a bunker or as hardened shelter, etc. Keep in mind that
CONEX/SeaLand type containers have most of their strength in the floor
and on the
corners of the roof (which is probably why they can stack them a dozen
high on ships). You absolutely MUST reinforce the insides if you plan
on completely burying one. (Such as 6x6s or heavy timbers.)
Here is what [U.S. Army] FM 5-103 "Survivability" says about
containers (page 4-31):
"Large metal shipping containers such as CONEX containers,
are used to make effective shelters... ...are easily converted into
protective
command posts, communications shelters, troop shelters, aid stations,
and shelters for critical supplies. Because the CONEX container's floor
is stronger than it's roof, it is inverted to resist more blast and
provide some overhead cover. Although the shelter sometimes constructed
above ground, it is easier to construct it below ground by placing
the inverted CONEX container in a hole half it's height and
then covering the roof with earth."
For our purposes, shipping containers make great storage facilities
and can make use as initial entrances into shelter systems, housing
for families, etc. They are fairly secure and can be used for pre-positioning
of bulk supplies even at the "absentee owner" type retreat.
Hope
this helps. - Mr. Lima
Hello! I just finished reading Patriots for a third time - INCREDIBLE book. I'm also a good friend of "Dr. Buckaroo Banzai." I have a master's degree in immunology and teach in a nursing program at a local college. My comments are aimed at the general education of the readership of your blog. The immune system operates largely on the function of T-helper cells. There are two main T-helper varieties. One variety (T-h1) deals with intracellular pathogens (viruses, few bacteria) and the other (T-h2) deals with extra-cellular pathogens (majority of bacteria, protozoa, fungi). What separates these two groups are the cytokines (chemicals which modulate immune response) that are released. T-h1 cytokines promote immunity to intracellular pathogens AND SUPRESS the function of T-h2 cells. What this means is that the body's response to a viral infection WILL leave the patient more susceptible to a bacterial infection. The opposite is true as well - bacterial infections leave the body less prepared to deal with viral infections. Just thought you'd want some of the background here! Keep up the good work, keep your powder dry, and God bless! - Dr. Rocky J. Squirrel
Jim,
Thanks for keeping up the good work. I have inadvertently discovered a great
power outage alarm. We were bought a carbon monoxide detector a while back.
Whenever the power is cut, or the unit is un-plugged, it WILL wake you up!
I don't know how long it continues to go off because it is so loud, I
get it stopped right away. This is an item we should all have, too, just to
detect
the carbon monoxide. - Sid
Mr. Rawles, this started out as an entry for your preparedness articles writing contest. Unfortunately, it took a different turn and I don't have the time to devote to it. The value of my research is these pictures. See: http://www.curevents.com/vb/showthread.php?p=169180#post169180 I hope you enjoy! - Johnny, a.k.a. swampthing
"We are never prepared for what we expect." - James A. Michener, Caravans
Note from JWR: Today we feature still another entry for the SurvivalBlog writing contest. The prize is a transferable four day course certificate, good for any course at Front Sight. Get your non-fiction articles submitted via e-mail by the end of November to be considered for the contest. Most of the articles that have been submitted thusfar are fairly general. Feel free to submit detailed articles on specific topics. All will be considered for posting.
I have been a soldier, police officer, and am now working overseas
as a security contractor in Afghanistan. I’ve attended and
given a great deal of firearms related training, and over the past
few years I’ve started to see a serious deficiency in typical
law enforcement and self defense training. The United States is a
country filled with people who live lives mostly untouched by serious
violence. That fact is a good thing,
and is a
testament to our country, but it handicaps us in the way we train ourselves
and our warriors, particularly our police. I want to
cut directly to the main issue I see. In my experience most shooters
who
practice
with
any frequency have decent basic skills. I see quite a few who are very
good shots and have some basic tactical skills. Americans have access
to good firearms and equipment, as do American police officers. However,
I believe most self defense minded people, and indeed most police officers,
are trained to fail by their departments, their instructors, and their
society.
Most police departments require officers to qualify quarterly, and
many departments are moving toward realistic shooting and away from
static paper punching. The department I worked for offered different
holsters for officers, and if officers wanted to change, they had to
practice with the holster and demonstrate at the range that they could
smoothly draw and make accurate shots very quickly. Technically most
of the officers were decent and some were quite skilled with their
equipment. Many fired their weapons on a weekly basis and dry fired
daily to keep skills sharp.
Where the department and society in general let them down was in mental
preparation. If an officer is involved in a shooting, the officer is
immediately put on suspension while the incident is investigated. Most
of the time, though admittedly not all, the suspension creates a pall
around the officer. Counselors are brought in and the officer is typically
required to attend. The legal environment is such that officers live
in fear of the almost certain law suit that will follow the shooting.
If the officer has done everything right, the chances of losing an
actual trial in front of a jury are small, but officers know the agency/city
or county my settle for a lesser amount to put the issue away. City
managers would rather write a smaller check and settle with the wounded
or dead criminal’s family than suffer the small percentage chance
of suffering a multi-million dollar judgment in court. This scenario
assumes the officer survived the shooting, or more accurately, applied
all his training to the situation, made the right decisions,
and used his skill with his weapons to defend his life or the life
of another. Many other officers lose their lives because the doubts
and fears we train into them cause them to hesitate at the critical
moment and lose the encounter.
We have in effect trained our officers to fail. This applies to citizens
training for self defense as well, because much of the training taken
by citizens is at the same schools police officers use. Indeed, at
the local level, many of our police officer run side businesses and
train locals in basic skills so they can qualify for concealed carry
permits.
The fact that an officer is immediately removed from duty after a shooting,
investigated while the media has a field day and his department offers
non-committal statements until they see which way the legal/public
opinion wind is blowing pounds the idea in the officer’s mind
that he has done something wrong or heinous. The officer is taught
that defending himself, doing the job he was hired to do, is bad. He
is also taught that he should feel quite remorseful after the action,
and due to that remorse require counseling. Those facts are also observed
by his fellow officers. These activities set the officer up for a difficult
future.
I understand the legal ramifications for a department and I know why
officers are given days off after a critical incident such as a shooting.
What I am arguing against is the passive and shameful mindset that
accompanies a shooting. When an officer survives a shooting by employing
his skills, he should be rewarded not taught to feel shame and fear
of legal reprisal.
Likewise, a citizen who defends his family from an intruder at 3 a.m.
has done a heroic thing, not something to be ashamed of. If you disagree
with my stance here, ask yourself what you would say to a family member
who shot an intruder: Would it be, “Oh my goodness, that is terrible,
you must feel awful” or would it be, “Congratulations,
your kids and family are safe and you did the right thing.” If
you read this website, you might be one of the rare people to offer
encouragement, but you also know what the majority of people would
say.
My Experience
In my current position I face more violence than I did as a soldier
or a police officer. I also face a less complicated legal environment,
though I do occupy a gray area in terms of use of force in this country,
and therefore have to worry about losing my job or suffering prosecution
in local courts. I have been in several shootings here, some that would
best be described as small battles. A few times I have been in one,
and then in another later in the day. I am not given time off, counseling,
or therapy, nor do I need it. The actions I have taken were proper
and I do not lose a wink of sleep over it. Speaking to my police friends
brought home these problems for me, because I heard repeated statements
such as, “How do you deal with it, that must be very tough…etc.”
The work can be difficult, but I was hired because I am an armed professional,
and I should not fall to pieces the first time I am required to demonstrate
that professionalism. If I had fallen apart, my employer would have
been right to fire me. I don’t suffer any mental anguish over
my work, because I am a professional, understand my environment, and
act properly. These lessons may seem far removed from your situation,
but if you carry or own a weapon for protection, your outlook should
be the same as mine. It does no good to survive a shooting, and then
crumble afterward.
Societal Issues
Our society will not admit that it is proper to defend yourself or
your family at the current time due to several factors in my opinion,
but that does not make the desire to defend yourself and your family
any less worthwhile or heroic. The United States has had an increasing
standard of living for many years, and many people are generations
removed from genuine life threatening hardship. This has resulted in
a mental and physical softening of the general population. They have
never been faced with life and death choices and cannot truly conceive
that others have. It is also a fact that it takes large amounts of
money to own media outlets and most people who have enough money to
own or hold high positions in such media outlets reside in major cities.
They live in a world even more insulated than most other Americans
(already an insulated group as a whole), and they present their view
of the world in their newspaper or on their television channel. Thus
Americans see a skewed view of life in the media. I am not broaching
the “liberal bias” issue here, simply saying that most
of the people who own major media share certain life experiences and
tend to represent those in the media. Those life experiences are not
consistent with the way the majority of Americans live.
Issues You Should Consider
If you are involved in a shooting, whether as a police officer or a
citizen, you should consider a few ideas. Be confident in yourself
and your actions, but do not make broad statements to friends, the
media, or peers until the legal situation is resolved. Don’t
wear offensive or tasteless clothing (such as, “The only good
criminal is a dead criminal,” or “Gun control means shooting
with two hands”) either before or after the incident. While these
things may seem funny, you will be tried in the court of public opinion
as well as a court of law, and both may be done concurrently at times.
You should not want your actions to appear lighthearted or frivolous
about what you have done. The confidence you should have is not the
kind to trumpet on a t-shirt or bumper sticker. You have protected
yourself and/or your family and you should be proud and confident,
but not to the point of your own detriment.
If you are a police officer, attend any training and or counseling
your department requires. But do so with an air of quiet confidence,
not shame or fear. If your department gives you several days off after
the incident, don’t sit home and brood about the incident. Take
your spouse and children out of town for a few days to a place you
will all enjoy. Go to dinner and be your normal self. You will instill
confidence in them by your actions, and they will learn valuable lessons
about self defense and dignity from you. Conduct yourself as properly
as you did during the incident, and be happy, because you are still
alive and able to enjoy the ones you love.
We all have a right to a decent, safe life. When some thug tries to
steal that right from us or someone we love, and we shoot him, we have
not done a bad act, he has. We cannot change our society as a whole,
at least not quickly, but we can change how we feel and view our own
actions. Be proud of yourself and your decision to be responsible for
your own life and continue holding your head high if you are forced
to use your firearm to defend yourself or your family.
Jim,
I’ve recently been shopping around for used sea containers [Continental
Express or "CONEX" transoceanic shipping containers], primarily to
replace the weathered sheds that came with our property. While I haven’t
sold my wife on the idea yet, we have been looking at metal sheds, which are
more
expensive
and
much less durable. You can purchase sea containers for a fairly reasonable
price (approximately $1500 for a 20’ unit). Naturally, I started thinking
about other possible uses for them (shelter, fallout shelter, etc.), and wanted
to see if you, or any other bloggers, had any experience with using them in
the survival context. They’re weather tight, can be purchased insulated,
and are steel. Seems like there must be some pretty interesting possibilities
there. - P.H.
JWR Replies: I agree that despite the recent price increases, CONEXes are still a bargain. Many thousands of U.S. soldiers and Marines are billeted in converted CONEXes in Iraq. These are called Containerized Housing Units (CHUs). This consists of CONEX retrofitted with a door, window, top vent, power cabling, and an air conditioning unit. These are pretty Spartan accommodations, but it sure beats living in a tent.
Just keep in mind that if you use a CONEX for above ground storage then a "spinner" vent should definitely be added to the roof . Why? Because CONEXes tend to sweat inside. (For the same reason, do not stack cardboard boxes directly against the interior walls.)
Don't count on a CONEX being truly secure storage if your retreat property is not continuously occupied. Welding on a shroud to protect a padlock from attack by bolt cutters is a good idea. But given enough time, a determined thief will just come back with a cutting torch.
Perhaps some SurvivalBlog readers will have some detailed suggestions for the various uses of CONEXes, or if any of you are deployed troops that are billeted in a CHU, please e-mail me with your comments!
Hello,
I am fairly new to the survival lifestyle and I'm still learning. I've been in
the military and have been hunting and shooting since I was a small child, so
I'm okay there. I'm interested in obtaining some night vision goggles for use
after hurricanes (I live in southeast Louisiana) and for patrols if TEOTWAWKI
occurs.
One
of
my neighbors is way ahead of me and has actually done some business with you
on
Valmet parts, etc. He trusts you and I trust him, so I wanted to get your opinion
on STANO Components. I assume that since they are a link on your website that
you have personal experience with
them
and that they are a reputable company. However, in today's world, I feel it is
necessary to confirm this. Would you please share with me your feelings and opinions
regarding STANO Components? Thank You, - R.V. in Louisiana
JWR Replies: I only know of Al Glanze (who operates STANO
Components,
Inc.,
in Silver City, Nevada) by reputation. But what a great reputation! One
of the
SurvivalBlog readers featured
in the Profiles section ("Mr.
Tango"--a night vision expert) told me
that he has bought nearly all of his night vision gear from STANO Components.
He tells me that Al Glanze is extremely reputable, sells only top quality
gear, and has a fantastic reputation for customer service.
He mentioned that on several occasions Al was willing to let "Mr. Tango" hand
pick image intensifier tubes based on "in the field" side-by-side nighttime
tests. (Checking for subtle differences such as minimum scintillation--commonly
called "the sparklies.") Virtually all of the U.S.-made scopes that
STANO Components sells come with certified data sheets. (Stating the exact number
of
line pairs and other critical data.)
Beware that there is a lot of junk on the night vision market--especially Russian
junk--with fake data sheets. Most of the rebuilt U.S.-made equipment one the
market was put together
on
someone's kitchen table, often using image intensifier tubes of dubious quality
with an unknown number of hours of operating time. But, in contrast, you can
buy from STANO Components with confidence.
Mr. Rawles.
I read your book and I found it both entertaining and full of information as
many others did. I live Argentina, South America where things have been
hard after the 2001 economical collapse we suffered. We changed five presidents
in one week, if you can believe that, and well… we are struggling
to get back on our feet, though it sometimes it seems that it’s impossible. "When
it finally seems as if we hit bottom, someone starts to shovel."
I started reading your letters on Survivalblog.com and find them, again full
of valuable insight. There are a couple of things that, in my most humble personal
experience, might differ from what you estimate may happen after a crisis.
Medical health companies, for example have made a lot of profit. This is because
public health isn’t worth a penny, they are on strike most of the time
and lack the most basic health implements like disposable needles, cotton,
etc. People either have private health insurance or die like rats over here.
As for the popularity of gambling and casinos, don’t ask me why please,
I’m clueless, but it seems that the poorer the people, the more they
gamble. Most poor neighborhoods, some that even lack tap water or gas service,
places that don’t even have light, there you can find one big shiny Bingo
in the middle of the place. Please excuse my English, its not as good as it
should be. Just wanted to let you know how things developed over here, concerning
those issues, thought you might find them interesting. I posted some general
thoughts concerning urban survival at a place called frugalsquirrel.com under
the name of FerFAL at the General Patriot Discussion forum: http://www.frugalsquirrels.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=044387;p=1
It’s just things I noticed, some stuff I do myself to get by, in this
now-turned Third World country. Regards, - Fernando in Argentina
I try to keep my daily quotes short, so forgive me for subjecting you to four stanzas. But that article from Jeff in Afghanistan reminded me of Kipling...
If, by Rudyard Kipling
If you can keep your head when all about you
Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;
If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you,
But make allowance for their doubting too;
If you can wait and not be tired by waiting;
Or, being lied about, don't deal in lies,
Or, being hated, don't give way to hating;
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;
If you can dream - and not make
dreams your master;
If you can think - and not make thoughts your aim;
If you can meet with triumph and disaster
And treat those two imposters just the same;
If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken
Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools,
Or watch the things you gave your life to broken,
And stoop and build 'em up with worn out tools;
If you can make one heap of all
your winnings
And risk it on one turn of pitch-and-toss,
And lose, and start again at your beginnings
And never breathe a word about your loss;
If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew
To serve your turn long after they are gone,
And so hold on when there is nothing in you
Except the Will which says to them: "Hold on";
If you can talk with
crowds and keep your virtue,
Or walk with kings - nor lose the common touch;
If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you;
If all men count with you, but none too much;
If you can fill the unforgiving minute
With sixty seconds' worth of distance run -
Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it,
And - which is more - you'll be a Man, my son!
Note from JWR: Today we feature yet another entry
for the SurvivalBlog writing contest.
The prize is a transferable four day course certificate,
good for any course at Front
Sight. Be sure to enter your non-fiction articles via e-mail by
the end of November to be considered for the contest.
My goal, like so many of us, is to be able to pre-bugout, to a retreat
I can live on full time. I dream of having a few acres out in the
country where I can mostly support myself on what can be produced
on my own land. When I first started to think about it, and plan
for it, the first question of course is “How much land?”
After getting past the obvious answer, “As much as possible”,
came the more reasonable answer of: “enough to do accomplish
my primary goal of optimal self-sufficiency.” After more study
I came to realize that five or so acres is about all I could really
work. Five acres, when worked intensively, will produce far more
than a family of four can consume. This five acres would contain
everything, House, Barn, a one to two acre garden, chickens, Rabbits,
Goats, et cetera.
So having settled on five to seven acres, I turned to the issue of
what tools, equipment, and other assets would be needed to make my
micro-farm
work.
Beyond the usual hand tools. And shop tools, my research led me to
study power equipment appropriate for the Micro-Farm. What I found
was the Two-Wheel, or "Walk-behind" Tractor. A good example
of the class is the BCS 852 with a 10 horsepower diesel engine. It
has a single
cylinder engine mounted in front of a trans axle. The
Trans axle drives a pair of wheels that are from 3.5 to 6.5 inches
wide, and 8 to 12 inches in diameter. It is also equipped with front
and
rear Power Takeoffs (PTOs)
used to transfer power to a variety of implements. For me this is the
optimum retreat utility tractor. To justify
that statement I need to go into a bit more detail as to why. As with
all
things,
this selection is based on my plans and intentions, but I believe that
they are generic enough to qualify as a general
solution for most people, but as always Your Mileage may Vary (YMMV).
The factors I am taking into consideration are:
Size of Farm.
Number of people available to work it.
Safety
Maintainability
Fuel availability/economy
Life expectancy under the projected load
The truth is most of us have not, or will not be able to acquire more
than five to 10 acres of land. If you can get more, fine, get it; you
can’t have too much land, but you can leave yourself short on
other things by buying more land than you really need, or can work.
In most cases the garden will be run by just one or two people, either
because of off farm employment or the kids may be grown and gone before
you make the move. People that are already doing this will tell you
that one to two acres, if worked as intensively as is reasonably possible
is all one person can handle. If you have more land, then you have
the option of bartering produce, for labor to work more acres. But
I would still keep it in two-acre units.
The core concept of survivalism/preparedness is independence; you can’t
be independent if you can’t do most, if not all the maintenance
yourself. While yes, most anyone with any mechanical aptitude at all
can work on most regular tractors, however they have four times as
many cylinders, fuel injectors, and fuel lines, twice as many tires,
use
much more fuel, and mostly are too much tool for two to five acres.
When the world ends there will be NO more fuel deliveries from anywhere,
and if there are then they will be prohibitively expensive. So you
need a fuel that you can produce yourself, to me this means biodiesel.
It’s a fuel you can make yourself; it will substitute directly
into the tank with NO modifications to the engine, and gives almost
exactly the same performance, as regular diesel.
So with these concepts in mind I started thinking about what the ideal
tool would be. I eliminated most regular four wheeled tractors like
the Ford 9N and the International Harvester (IH) Farmalls because to
buy
one of their modern counterparts new is very expensive, and to find
parts
for older
ones
that you can
buy on the cheap can also be expensive. While there has been a lot
of development in compact and subcompact tractors in the last few years,
they are mostly compact technical wonders that have all kinds of computerized
fuel injection systems, high volume, high pressure hydraulics, and
just lots and lots of things that need to be maintained or fixed. Simplicity
is crucial.
My search for information about small farm tractors, as with most things
today, started online. I started from the position that a Walk-behind
Tractor would be the optimum choice because on the surface it met two
of the most important criteria, Fuel requirements, and maintainability.
The MOST important question remained, how much land could be worked
with it and still expect it to last a lifetime.
Dean M., one of my online sources, who has actually been running a
Market Garden since 1989, says that much of that time was spent downsizing
his garden to it’s current 1.5 acres. According to Dean,one to
two acres is about all one person can work, when trying to maximize
the production
of a garden. The general consensus is, that the limit on how large
a garden you could work with one of these machines,is really set by
how much labor was available, rather than the capacity of the machine.
To answer that question I needed input from an expert. In my web search
I found many companies that make and sell this kind of equipment, but
they are almost ALL overseas. Of the domestic companies most only sell
Walk-behinds as a sideline. I found a company in Owenton KY, which
specializes in small-scale commercial agriculture equipment. Joel Dufour
founded Earth Tools in 1977, and all they sell is Walk-behind tractors.
.
I asked Mr. Dufour about the capability, capacity, and requirements
of walk behind tractors for a TEOTWAWKI scenario.
He recommended not the largest one he sells, the 948 but rather the
model 852, which comes
with an optional 10 hp diesel engine. He says the 852s are far more
versatile than the 948. Based on what his customers are actually doing
with the units, and have been doing for nearly 30 years he gave me
the following information about capabilities, and requirements of these
units.
You can work up to two acres of Market garden per person, and/or about
15 acres of Haying for livestock. With proper preventative maintenance,
used in a commercial agricultural operation, a tractor like he sells
will last 20+ years. They can haul up to one ton on a two-wheel trailer.
Depending on the specific task, running 8 hrs on a gallon of fuel is
possible. He has several customers that make their own biodiesel and
run their 852s on it, and have reported no problems.
When it comes to maintenance requirement the diesel engines are designed
for 5000 hours TBO (Time Between Overhauls), and are meant to be rebuilt
twice before replacing crankshafts or connecting rods. That means that
the engines have a 15,000 hr life span minimum (with proper maintenance).
For routine maintenance they only use 1.5 quarts of oil per change,
which needs to be done every 75 ours or annually--whichever comes first.
The oil filter is cleanable and the air filter is replaceable. The
conical clutch lasts 1000 – 2000 hrs, and can be replaced in
less than 2 hrs. All maintenance, including overhauls can be done with
regular hand tools, the only exception being one $25 tool for working
on the transmission if it’s ever needed.
One point that Mr. Dufour
thinks is undersold is safety. He pointed out that one of the most
common fatal accidents on a farm is a tractor
rollover. When operating one of these units on a slope, even if you
were on the downhill side of the machine, and you couldn’t get
out of the way, they only weight about 300 lbs, so it is very unlikely
you would suffer a life threatening injury. Where as with even the
smallest of standard tractors if it rolls over on you, death is the
very likely outcome.
So let’s look at how these machines match my original
requirements:
Size of Farm:
A 10 HP machine will work as much land as most of us will be able to
get, and
work, without being too big for the job.
Number of people available to work the land:
The constraint is number of people vs. planting/harvesting schedule; again it
is well matched to the 5 to 15 acres, with which most of us will wind up.
Maintainability:
There is nothing that the owner can’t do on these machines, from routine
maintenance to a complete overhaul, which would require more than basic mechanics
hand tools, and one inexpensive specialty tool.
Safety: I don’t care how much the machine can do or how well it does it,
the one thing that you absolutely cannot afford in the post-TEOTWAWKI world,
is an injury. So the machine that is least likely to cause me harm is WAY up
on
my list
Fuel availability/economy:
These units can be had with Gas, or Diesel engines. Gas engines can be run on
alcohol with modification. Diesel engines can be run on
biodiesel without modification.
Life expectancy under the projected load:
You can work as much acreage as you have time and people to work without over
working the tractor. They are truly an agricultural grade machines, not glorified
Home duty units.
While I’m not trying to sell this particular tractor, however if we use
its characteristics as a baseline then I think it is fare to say that a diesel
Walk-behind Tractor would make an ideal vehicle for a Micro-farm. It is the core
power unit
for almost all farm tasks, can be adapted to do just about anything else that
requires up to 10 HP; from electrical generation to pumping water, with the right
connection to the PTO. It also meets or exceeds the core requirements that I
laid out at the beginning. This is not to say that there might not be other machines
that would also work, but if you are starting from scratch like most of us, then
this
is a good objective solution.
Related info:
http://www.earthtoolsbcs.com/
http://www.chelseagreen.com/1989/items/neworganicgrower
http://www.bcsshop.com/
http://www.adriatica-grifo.it/g/main.htm
JWR Adds:
From the standpoint of a small acreage survival retreat, a
walk-behind tiller/tractor makes a lot of sense. WTSHTF,
fuel will be at a premium, so it is logical to get something that
will
give
you
maximum useful work with minimum fuel consumption. And as Fanderal
mentioned, they will also minimize tractor rollover accidents. This
is especially important
at
a retreat with a lot of newbies. (Just because you are accustomed
to thinking "safety first" at all times doesn't mean that
your recently-transplanted Big City friends and cousins will be!)
If you need to cultivate significantly larger acreage, then a full-size tractor makes sense, but only of course with significantly more training and more voluminous fuel storage. BTW, the new "crawler" (rubber tracked) tractors have a lower center of gravity that traditional wheeled tractors and hence are much less prone to rollovers.
I used a gas engine Troy-Bilt Horse tiller for several years and found it very reliable. The BCS products are made in Milan, Italy. At a list price of $3,799, these are not cheap. But if you go with the principle of "buying something sturdy and reliable once, versus buying something flimsy, multiple times", then this sort of purchase makes sense. To get the most for your money, shop around for a slightly used, diesel-powered unit.
One other consideration: Tractors are noisy and can be heard from a long distance. Wear hearing protection whenever operator a tractor or tiller. In a post-TEOTWAWKI survival situation, this may mean one individual wearing earmuffs operating the tractor, and another individual that is concealed 50 to 100 yards away, on dedicated security duty. (Otherwise, operating noisy equipment like a tractor or chainsaw might be a noisy invitation to get bushwhacked.)
Here are some additional useful URLs:
http://www.earthtoolsbcs.com/html/bcs_tractor_specs.html
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tools/msg052243117706.html
http://www.groworganic.com/item_GT034_.html
http://www.wikco.com/bcsfeaturesg.html
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I think the pneumovax is a good idea. However, there are simply no
data to support your statement that "pneumonia
co-infections are the biggest killer associated with the Asian Avian
flu." Whether even a single victim of the current H5N1 avian flu
in Asia has even developed pneumococcal pneumonia has not been reported.
I doubt it. These people appear to be dying too quickly for that to
be the problem. I think they are simply dying from viral pneumonia.
In 1918-1919 many flu victims died within 24-48 hours of becoming febrile.
Those deaths certainly had nothing to do with pneumococcal pneumonia.
That being said, in ordinary flu epidemics, old and debilitated people
do develop secondary bacterial pneumonia after their systems are further
weakened by viral pneumonia with the flu. In many cases, these secondary
pneumonias are caused by the pneumococcus.
So there is undoubtedly some utility in the pneumococcal vaccine. Remember,
it only protects against 23 varieties of a single microorganism, the
pneumococcus. As you can gather from its name, though, the pneumococcus
is the poster child of bacterial pneumonia, and it certainly can and
does kill.
Whether or not there will be a worldwide pandemic of H5N1 avian flu
depends only on the virus -- if it has become or will become easily
transmissible from human to human, there will be a pandemic, because
it is antigenically novel and nobody has much if any immunity to it.
In the final analysis, the scope of the pandemic also depends only
on the virus -- on its attack rate and case fatality rate. The attack
rate means how many people in a population become infected --105 --
25% -- 50% -- and the case fatality rate means how many of those people
die. An attack rate of about 25% appears likely for a true flu pandemic.
Currently the case fatality rate in Asia appears to be about 50%, but
I think that is wildly over-estimated, since only the dead and dying
are being counted, and there may be many milder cases that are going
undiagnosed and unreported. A case-fatality rate of 0.5% to 1% would
be typical of a bad flu, and a case fatality rate of 2% or 3% was usual
in most communities in 1918-1919. Anything more than that, even 5%,
would be devastating. Remember that some isolated communities were
more susceptible, and wiped out, in 1918-1919. All the best, - "Dr.
Buckaroo Banzai"
JWR Replies: Your point is well taken, Buckaroo. When I saw references to "pneumonia co-infections" I mistakenly assumed that they were mostly pneumococcal pneumonia infections. So I went back and did some more reading. I was mistaken. Most of the pneumonia deaths were indeed due to H5N1 viral pneumonia--which of course Pneumovax 23 won't prevent. But I'm glad to hear that you agree that it is a good thing to get a Pneumovax 23 inoculation, nonetheless.
Dear Mr. Rawles:
Look forward to your blog everyday - keep up the great work! A question
and suggestion for an article, from the point of view of those who
must have a good bug-out plan....1. Got a source for a mechanical
(as opposed to electronic) power out alarm? Under many scenarios the
first warning of a Schumer / fan interface will be the power out (or
confirmation that TS is REALLY HTF). Electronics are vulnerable to
EMP, but a mechanical alarm could give you hours head start of TSHTF....2.
Bug out vehicle. The first thing
I thought after seeing the jam on the freeways out of Houston was -
gee, a motorcycle could sure come in handy - less fuel needed, weave
around stranded cars, drive on the grass or cross-country around roadblocks,
etc., etc. Seriously looking at the Rokon TWO- wheel drive all-terrain
motorbike as a BOV. See: www.rokon.com
Pros
1. A motorcycle can weave around stranded cars, drive on the grass
or cross-country around roadblocks, etc., etc.
2. In a Rokon, BOTH FRONT & BACK wheels get power - can go rugged
places no other ATV or motorcycle can
3. can carry 1,000 lbs. and tow a trailer up to 3,000 lbs.!
4. Multi-purpose - a mini-tractor in power and accessories - many agricultural
implements such as:
* Disc Harrow
* Log Skidder
* Moldboard Plow
* Lawn Mower
* Broadcast Spreader
* Power Take-Off Kit
* Agri-Sprayer,
5. 5 to 6 hours on one tank, plus alternate fuel storage in the hollow wheels
(if wheels not used for gas, can float the bike to ford a river!)
6. extremely rugged, high ground clearance, fat wheels for traction, etc.,
etc.
Cons
--Less cargo capacity vs. a car or truck
-- Less protection for occupants versus a car or truck
-- Max 40 mph.
--"Ignition Electronic Magneto" in the engine - potential EMP problem?
How vulnerable would you rate this vehicle to EMP?
http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2503_a.pdf - "N." in
Texas -
PS. I have no affiliation to Rokon, financial or otherwise, other than that I am a potential customer
JWR Replies: Your letter ties in nicely with today's article about tiller/tractors. "Sturdy, slow and low tech" maybe the order of the day, come TEOTWAWKI.
RE: ...Got a source for a mechanical (as opposed to electronic) power out alarm? That should be fairly easy to construct. These are probably already commercially made, but if there aren't; Imagine a relay, (powered from AC to DC adapter) that is in the normally open position when current is available. When the AC power goes out, the relay trips to the closed position and activates a battery powered alarm--something piercing like a Mallory Sonalert. Alternatively, it could even trip something low tech like an old fashioned spring-powered alarm clock bell.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your excellent site. I read it every day but Sunday and
enjoy most every article. However, while I believe it is important
to be as prepared as possible for pandemics and every other kind
of emergency, I'm convinced that the Avian "Bird" flu is
contrived and a needless scare. Bill Sardi, on his excellent website,
has numerous excellent articles, all well researched and documented,
showing that this crisis is hysteria
being fanned by government authorities (http://www.knowledgeofhealth.com/report.asp?story=Bird%20Flu%20Hysteria%20Fanned%20By%20Inaccurate%20News%20Reports.).
I heartily recommend this site to all your readers. - G.M. in North
Carolina
JWR Replies: There may be some exaggeration and hyperbole, but I do believe that the A.A. flu threat is real. Don't count on on anyone in government saving the day. Make plans to provide for yourself. Make plans to hunker down in self-quarantine for an extended period, preferably in a lightly populated farming region.
"You cannot invade the mainland United States. There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass." - Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto
With all of the recent conjecture about the possibility of an Asian Avian flu pandemic, the subject of pneumonia inoculations has come up. (Because pneumonia co-infections are the biggest killer associated with the Asian Avian flu. Most of those cases are viral, but some could be pneumococcal.) Merck makes a widely used pneumonia vaccination called Pneumovax 23. It is administered intramuscularly before exposure to pneumococci (streptococcus pneumoniae), and reportedly only rarely has adverse reactions. It will not prevent viral pneumonia, but at least it is effective at preventing 23 strains of pneumococcal pneumonias. The threat of Asian Avian flu mutating into a strain that easily transmissible by humans constitutes a novel threat. In this particular instance, I have come to the conclusion that it is worthwhile to have everyone in my family vaccinated with Pneumovax. [But Jim is always a worst case scenario kinda guy! - The Memsahib.] I predict that if a readily transmissible strain does break out into a pandemic that there will be a huge rush for the relatively few available doses of Pneumovax. Give it some serious thought and prayer. If you feel convicted to get your family vaccinated, do not hesitate. Do so while Pneumovax is still readily available.
There are starting to be some clear indicators that the U.S. housing market bubble has reached its apex, though there are some that disagree. The signs of irrational exuberance are all to apparent. Witness, for example, the mad bidding wars for Miami condominiums that are being pre-sold, long before the ground has been broken at the construction sites.
The housing markets have already headed south in much of the rest of the English speaking world.(Prices are already dropping in Australia and England.) But not yet in the United States. Today's housing market is the embodiment of "The Greater Fool Theory", on steroids. One of my compadres said this is like watching the equivalent of the Dutch Tulip Mania, in modern times.
Will the bubble gradually and gently deflate, or will pop with a resounding bang? I'm not certain, but I'm betting on the latter. This will most likely happen in the Spring of Aught Six, when the expected annual home buying season fails to materialize. There will be a collective "Ah-hah", as some home sellers begin to drop their prices. Buyers will sense a soft market, so they start putting in "low ball" bids. The sellers will then get panicky and drop their prices even more, to "be certain of a quick sale." This downward ratcheting may very well turn into a outright snowballing effect as everyone with a spec house realizes that the music has stopped and their are precious few chairs in the room. Economist Dr. Gary North sagely opines that it is currently a good time to be a renter. If you have a vacation home, a house that you rent out, or any houses that you've bought on speculation, I then I strongly recommend that you sell them, ASAP! If the decline is as great as I anticipate--perhaps as much as 70% in the most overpriced regions--then it may take ten years for house prices to return to their 2005 levels. If you are planning to move within the next four or five years, then you might consider selling your house to a property management and renting it back. This may sound crazy, but as early as next June you may be congratulating yourself for your foresight.
As I mentioned back in a post on August 20, 2005, the popular "Mr. Housing Bubble" T-shirt sums up the current situation nicely.
James:
First of all, I want to say thank you for putting so much effort
in to an active blog on this subject. I try to read daily, and I
always
play catch-up once a week. I know it takes a TON of work to keep
something like this alive and post as much each day as you do, so
again, thanks. I was moderately concerned for the first time reading
your blog this past week in regards to the post on Gold and Silver
Barter. In there
you referred to the American public as having "been robbed".
My concern is that this is one of the few places where survivalists
get the bad rap of being crazy. I want to point out something: whether
it's gold, a paper dollar, or a rock, the value of whatever item is
determined by faith, not intrinsic
value. Gold is only valuable to us because we decided that shiny stuff
was so important that we were willing to trade long, hard days of work
for a little bit of it. At one point in our nation's past we limited
the currency in the market to be equal to the value of the gold the
US Treasury has on hand - but there was a problem. By the 1950s, during
our rebuilding of the country post-WWII, there was so much growth going
on that we actually were outpacing the availability of gold in the
market. We were slowly stifling our own economy because we could not
produce more goods and services that there was physical gold in the
market. Finally, common sense prevailed when we realized something:
The American public did not need gold, they needed dollars. They can
not
use gold in the grocery, the feed store, or the mall. Dollars they
can use. People have more faith in the dollar than they do in the ounce
of gold. Let the economy grow! To imply that we have been fooled is
to imply conspiracy and breeds distrust. We may differ here, but I
believe that is completely possible
to work within the system until there is no system. When there is no
system, I will be beside the other readers here making the best of
the barter system. Until then, I will happily use my U.S. Dollars to
purchase those items, never once believing I have been duped. To summarize,
whether it is gold, paper currency, diamond, or potato - the value
of any item is what we're willing to trade in labor or
tangibles to obtain it. The U.S. Dollar's value is not, and should
not be based on our perceived value of gold, since gold has no value
of
its own other than what we assign it. Gather your junk silver and gold
for WTSHTF, but don't believe in it more than the dollar. Oh, and don't
worry about the feds coming to take away your gold - since we're not
on the gold standard then they don't need it.
- L.C.
JWR Replies: I really appreciate you taking the time
to articulate your opinion because I'm sure that there are many other
people that feel
the same way. But I do beg to differ. We have been
robbed. When the Federal government decreed that our 90% silver coins
in circulation
be replaced with essentially worthless copper tokens (worth perhaps
2% of what a silver is worth, in terms of their metals content) it
was both a violation of the public trust and a violation of the Constitution.
(Article I, Section 10 of the U.S. Constitution states, "No
State shall make any Thing but Gold and Silver Coin a tender in payment
of debt.") It is no wonder that the pre-1965 coinage vanished
from circulation in less than two years after the switch. Gresham's
Law is inescapable: "Bad money drives out good."
By law, a
pre-1965 dollar was convertible into real silver coinage. In
contrast, a post-1964 Federal Reserve Note (FRN) "dollar" is
merely an non-convertible "I
Owe You Nothing" certificate. Whenever
I get handed handed FRNs, I convert most of them into tangibles as
quickly as possible. Someday, probably
within the next ten years, there will be a dollar crisis. At
the far end of that crisis, I predict that the dollar will revert to
close to its real value. (Essentially,
nothing.)
And, re: "...there was so much growth going on that we actually were outpacing the availability of gold in the market..." That is hogwash invented by Keynesian economists. If the free market were allowed to exist, then we would have had a free-floating currency, still backed by gold and silver. (The "bi-metallic" system.) A convertible, metals-backed currency acts as a natural check on the growth of government, not the economy. It is no coincidence that the Federal debt exploded after we went off the gold standard. With an unbacked currency, there is no limit to a government spending like a drunken sailor. (BTW: I mean no offense to drunken sailors. In my experience they act much more responsibly than governments.)
And, re: "...gold has no value of its own other
than what we assign it." You make it sound as if gold is
just a pretty rock ("shiny stuff") that has arbitrarily been
assigned a high value. But
gold's high value is due in part because of its unique intrinsic properties. Gold
is the most malleable and ductile metal known; (a single ounce can
be
beaten
into a sheet that is 300 square
feet). Heat, moisture,
oxygen, and most corrosive agents have very
little chemical effect on gold. (Gold coins recovered from 3,000 year old
shipwrecks come up from the bottom of the ocean looking bright and
shiny.) Because of its high electrical conductivity and resistance
to corrosion
and
other desirable
combinations of physical and chemical properties, gold is an essential industrial
metal. Since it is a good reflector of both infrared and visible light,
it is used
for the protective coatings on many artificial satellites.Gold coating
enables biological material to be viewed under a scanning electron
microscope.Gold alloys are used as a catalyst in organic chemistry,
as a treatment for rheumatoid arthritis, cancer treatments,
and restorative dentistry.The resistance to oxidation of gold has led
to its widespread use as thin layers electroplated
on the surface of electrical connectors to ensure a good
connection. Gold performs critical
functions in computers, communications equipment, spacecraft, jet aircraft
engines, and a host of other
products.
(Source of information for the preceding paragraph: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gold )
"Are you going to tell the soldier to shoot the soccer mom trying to get her kids out of the city in her minivan?" - Ed Richards, a Louisiana State University law professor, on using the military to enforce quarantines, as quoted at GovExec.com
I'm often asked how long the U.S. Military "Meal Ready to Eat" (MRE) rations can be stored. SurvivalBlog reader "Mr. Tango" (BTW, don't miss reading his fascinating profile) had a round of correspondence with the U.S. Army's Natick Laboratories in Massachusetts, on the potential storage life of MREs. The data that they sent him was surprising! Here is the gist of it:
| Degrees, Fahrenheit | Months of Storage (Years) |
| 120 | 1 month |
| 110 | 5 months |
| 100 | 22 months (1.8 years) |
| 90 | 55 months (4.6 years) |
| 80 | 76 months (6.3 years) |
| 70 | 100 months (8.3 years) |
| 60 | 130 months (10.8 years) -- See Note 3, below |
Note 1: Figures above are based on date of pack, rather than inspection date.
Note 2: MREs near the end of their shelf life are considered safe to eat if:
A.) They are palatable to the taste.
B.) They do not show any signs of spoilage (such as swelled pouches.)
C.) They have been stored at moderate temperatures. (70 degrees
F or below.)
Note 3: Not enough data has yet been collected on storage below 60 degrees F. However projections are that the 130 month figure will be extended.
Note 4: Time and temperature have a cumulative effect.
For example: storage at 100 degrees F for 11 months and then moved to 70
degrees F, you would lose one half of
the
70 F storage life.
Note 5: Avoid fluctuating temperatures in and out of freezing level.
Jim's Comments: As with other storage foods, heat
kills the shelf life of MREs in a hurry. So if you keep some "just
in case" MREs in the trunk of your car, be sure to rotate them frequently.
(Make sure that it is those MREs that you use for your hikes or hunting/camping/backpacking
trips. For any
large
quantities
of
MREs that
you intend to keep more than a year, be sure to store them in the coolest part
of your house. The same applies to
all of your other storage foods. The differential in temperature between the
top shelf and the bottom shelf in your pantry room can be considerable.
Reserve those upper shelves for heat-insensitive items like bottled water,
salt, and paper products!)
The above cited figures are
for palatability, not nutritive value. You should
plan to
supplement
with
a
good
quality double
encapsulated
multi-vitamin (such as VitaVim brand), good quality B-complex tablets, and
500 MG Vitamin C tablets. Vitamins should be stored in a cool, dark place for
best
shelf life. (Many tablets are light sensitive.) I recommend rotating your multi-vitamins
and Vitamin C every 24 months, and the Vitamin B every 18 months. Remember
that most of the fat, carbohydrates, and protein will still be available in
MREs,
even
after
many
years of storage,
but the vitamins won't. Plan accordingly.
Because MREs and other emergency foods are relatively high in bulk and low
in fiber, this could lead to digestive problems. Therefore, I also highly recommend
storing a bulk fiber supplement such as Metamucil with each case
of MREs. Don't overlook this precaution!
In summary, I consider MREs a good short term/tactical food. For more info,
including equivalents made for the armed forces of other nations, see: http://www.mreinfo.com.
They are ideal to keep in your "Get
Out of Dodge" (G.O.O.D.)
packs. However,
they are very expensive, per meal. The majority of your
storage food dollars should be spent on bulk storage foods.
Most of those should be purchased be in #10 cans and 5 gallon food grade storage
buckets. Bulk storage
foods are available from a number of vendors including:
Freeze Dry Guy
JRH Enterprises
Ready Made Resources
Safe Castle
Survival Enterprises
Walton Seed.
Live Oak Farms
AlpineAire Foods
Best Prices Inc. Storable Foods of Texas
The food additive monosodium glutamate (MSG) is now used in an alarmingly
wide variety of processed foods. MSG has a bad reputation for more than
just inducing "Chinese food headache." IMHO, it is nasty
stuff and should be avoided. But that is difficult these
days because
food processors hide it by applying umpteen clever nom de guerres. These
can
include:
Autolyzed yeast,
Barley malt,
Broth,
Bouillon,
Calcium caseinate,
Carrageen or carrageenan,
Enzyme modified,
Fermented,
Flavoring,
Natural flavoring,
Gelatin,
Glutamates,
Hydrolyzed oat flour,
Hydrolyzed protein,
Hydrolyzed vegetable,
Malt extract,
Maltodextrin,
Natural flavors,
Pectin,
Plant protein extract or extracts,
Potassium glutamate,
Protein fortified,
Protein isolates,
Sodium caseinate,
Soy protein or soy protein isolates
Soy sauce,
Stock,
Teriyaki sauce,
Textured protein,
TVP,
Ultra pasteurized,
Whey protein,
Yeast extract,
Yeast food.
(Special thanks to the authors of The Carbohydrate Addicts' Official FAQ on Monosodium Glutamate. See: http://www.carbohydrateaddicts.com/msg.html )
I don't go so far as to recommend that you go on a MSG "witch hunt" in
your pantry. Rather,
just be more aware and look at labels carefully whenever
you are re-stocking.
Jim,
This past Thursday thru Saturday was spent by me and a like minded, survival
oriented friend in the mountains doing a cold weather shakedown. We headed up
to the mountains, and did some primitive camping out in the middle of Bigfoot
country at about 3,500 feet. This was a well scouted area, and I had found that
nobody in at least the last year had been in the area but me. One of the items
that we "shook-down" was my Wiggy's Hunter.
When I opened the box that it came in, I could see right off that it appeared
to be one of the best put
together products I had seen in a long time. It just seemed to shout "QUAILITY!"
It
is a 0 degree bag, so I knew it should have no problems with 20 degree nighttime
temps that we expected. (And from what I've heard it probably would have little
problem with temps below 0 degrees.) The temps did indeed get down into the 20s,
but I slept very warm and comfortable in my Wiggy's bag. I just wished it would
have gotten even colder, to give it a real test. But I feel that considering
how warm
I slept this time, as opposed to just about freezing to death with my old bag,
(in temps that were even warmer) that the Wiggy's Hunter will not let me down
even
to
temps
below zero. Also the [compression] stuff sack (that for an extra 20 FRNs
comes with it) is really nice, and worth every penny. Thanks for turning me and
no doubt many others
on to Wiggy's via your book Patriots,
and the ad that now runs on your site.
Also
I must highly recommend expedition weight polypropylene (PolyPro) Long Johns.
They really made sitting around the campfire after the sun went down a pleasure.
Sincerely,
- Gung-Ho
A reader alerted me that the manufacturer of Gamma Seal Lids (those nifty screw top lids that fit on standard 3 to 7 gallon food storage buckets) are now available directly from the manufacturer at very reasonable prices if bought in quantity. See: http://www.gammaseals.com.
___
In a recent phone conversation, the gent who was the basis for the "Roger Dunlap" character in my novel Patriots mentioned: "In inflation-adjusted dollars, gold's $850+ per ounce peak back in 1979 would be the equivalent of about $1,550 per ounce today." Despite the price increases since 2001, gold is still dirt cheap. He recommends taking advantage of the still low price and stocking up before it zooms up past $500 per ounce. And silver, he said, is "an even better buy. Gold may double or triple in the next two years. But silver is likely go way up--five or ten times its current price!" Both he and I strongly recommend: Buy silver! To make it a real survival asset, buy physical silver--not mining stocks--and take personal possession. Keep it at home, well hidden. (Get creative and construct yourself a hidden wall cache.) Silver in a vault under the Paradeplatz in Zurich will do you no good when you need it to barter for groceries. Ditto for silver or gold in a safe deposit box at your local bank. In the event of a monetary crisis you can count on bank "holidays." And, if and when the banks do re-open, you can expect a government busybody with a clipboard to be standing there when you access your deposit box.
___
See www.freebuck.com for an inflation calculator that will help you appreciate inflation's long term effects.
___
Dr. Geri Guidetti of The Ark Institute recommends the book Country Wisdom & Know-How: A Practical Guide to Living off the Land (By the editors of Storey Publishing's Country Wisdom Bulletins.) A copy of this book should be on your bookshelf, right next to your copy of Carla Emery's Encyclopedia of Country Living. See: http://www.arkinstitute.com/bookstore.htm
"A pandemic is going to be a catastrophic nightmare. What we're going to be doing is trying to make it less of a nightmare." - Dr. Georges Benjamin, executive director of the American Public Health Association, on preparations for a possible bird-flu pandemic, as recently quoted in GovExec.com.
Note from JWR: I encourage you to continue to spread
the news about SurvivalBlog. Our readership is growing fast,
but there are still
millions out there with web access who have never heard of it. A brief
e-mail to your like-minded friends or mention of SurvivalBlog when
calling
in
to talk
radio shows
would
be
greatly
appreciated!
Every
friend that you help motivate to get prepared represents one less person
that you'll find sheepishly begging on your doorstep, come TEOTWAWKI+1.
Instead of being part of the problem, they'll be part of the solution.
From The Memsahib: Asian Avian Flu and the Home Poultry Flock (SAs: Emerging Threats, Disaster Preparedness, Asian Avian Flu, Poultry)
Here at the Rawles Ranch the chicken-loving Memsahib couldn't help but be dismayed when her DH suggested the immediate sale of her sizable flock of terribly cute and tame chickens. So off to the internet in search of answers...
Wild birds can be the carriers
of Avian Flu to domestic chickens
and turkeys. Bird flu can be spread from country to country by migratory
birds. Waterfowl can carry avian flu without clinical signs of infection. With
that said, how can any government in the world keep the Avian Flu from reaching
their shores? To prevent Avian Flu infecting your home poultry flock,
your fowl
must
be
protected
from
coming
into
contact
with
the saliva, respiratory secretions and feces of wild birds. Furthermore
you
must prevent wild bird saliva, secretions, and feces from contaminating
the food and water of your poultry flock, or contaminating your poultry equipment.
This means here at the Rawles Ranch, letting the chickens have free range is
a
thing of the past. We
have
to
redo
our
chicken
housing too. First, the poultry wire will be replaced with much smaller
mesh so that small wild birds can't enter the pens. Next, all parts
of the pens
will
have solid tops so that if wild birds do perch on the top their
feces cannot
drop into the pen.
It appears that all humans who contracted Avian Flu had direct contact with
live birds. Transmission occurs when human breathe in droplets of secretions
or dried feces of infected birds. There is no evidence that
suggests the virus is transmitted by consuming poultry products. Reducing
your exposure to the birds' secretions make sense. How about nest boxes
with
doors
to the outside so that you can collect eggs without entering the coop? How
about food hoppers and waterers that can be filled from outside the coop? (But
make sure they are covered and that wild birds can't contaminate them.) What
about keeping the chickens in raised pens and letting their feces drop below
into bins
with
earthworms
to
compost it ?
To be frank, not being able to let my chickens free range spoils
it for me. I built my flock up to about 30 laying hens, so that I would have
plenty of eggs to
share. The
cost
of
the
extra feed was offset by their ability to free range for grasshoppers and
other chicken treats in the pasture. But if all of
the feed has to be store bought, then the feed costs really start adding up
in a hurry, not to mention
taking
up storage space! So
in
the
end
it seems more logical to cut the flock waaaay back to just enough laying
hens to provided eggs for family use and to put up more storage food for people
instead
of chickens. That's too bad, because I really enjoy the pastoral picture
of
my
contented chicken catching bugs in the barnyard.
This question causes a lot of confusion for people who are new to survivalist
movement. The mass-media has always portrayed people in the survivalist movement
as paranoid nuts. Either they show us as racist killers waiting for the day when
the ‘mud-people’ can be put in their place, or religious freaks praying
for the end of the world, or cold-war nut cases who think the Russians
are coming to steal their women and rape their cattle. In truth, the run-of-the-mill
survivalist got his start as an average person with an average job who simply
looked
around
and didn’t like what he saw.
Survivalists are just people who know that civilization is millions of people
we don’t know, getting up every day and going to work at jobs we never
knew existed. If a large portion of those people cannot do their jobs, you and
I will not receive the benefit of their work and we, in turn, will not be able
to do our jobs and therefore others will not receive the goods or services that
we provide. Pretty soon all that you, or anybody else, will have are those things
that you can provide for yourself, and how much is that?
Think about that for a moment, how many times in your life have you been faced
with a situation where the normal mechanisms of civilized society--things like
electricity, water, heat, shelter, food distribution, transportation, etc.--have
been unavailable to you? Maybe it was a snowstorm that knocked out power, or
a water main break in your neighborhood, or the aftermath of a tornado, hurricane,
or earthquake. Most people have experienced some kind of failure for at least
a few hours. Well imagine a situation where these things are gone for months,
or years, perhaps even the rest of your life. Survivalists, seeing the teetering
economy of the 1970s, the threat of nuclear warfare and all the other
threats to our civilization, realized that they might soon be faced with just
such a situation and acted to protect their lives and families.
The problem was that in the late 1970s and early 1980s, a lot of
people, both in the media and in government, began to worry that survivalism
was becoming too popular. You see, people who are self-sufficient make much of
the government irrelevant, at least in regards to their own lives. A person who
has the ability to supply his or her own basic needs, like food, water, shelter,
etc. has no need to demand that the government “do something” for
them. The government, on the other hand, needs people to require its services.
Let’s face it, if nobody needs disaster relief, why should the government
keep FEMA around? If everybody took care of their own retirement needs, where
would Social Security be? Welfare, job training, food stamps, Medicare, and a
hundred other programs are justified by the helplessness of many people in the
face of adversity, therefore, if we are not helpless these programs would disappear
(along with the taxes needed to fund them). The media, being overwhelmingly in
support of such programs, also saw the danger posed by people asserting their
independence.
So the media sought out the fringe element within the survivalist movement. Story
after story showed the racists, the religious fanatics, the nuts who said
the government was controlled by little gray aliens, and the guys who were just
flatly incoherent on the subject. After years of such stories blanketing the
broadcast and print media, few people wanted to be connected with the term survivalist,
except for the aforementioned nuts. So the visible movement faded away. People
like me didn’t stop being survivalists, we just stopped calling ourselves
that.
In the early 1990s, there was a brief resurgence in the movement, only
this time it was the so-called Militias who assumed the mantel, and their
emphasis was not on surviving the collapse of civilization, but rather on preparing
to fight what they saw as a government out of control. Instead of stockpiling
food and medicine, they stockpiled guns and ammunition. Instead of wanting to
retreat from danger, the militias wanted to raise the bloody flag of revolution,
or at least that is what we were told. Of course the similarities between the
two movements were more apparent than real, but the media once again latched
on and wouldn’t let go. The Oklahoma City bombing knocked back the militia
movement to a great extent, and the survivalist label was even less appropriate
when applied to many of the remnants.
Then we come to 9/11 and the Anthrax attacks. In hours, people who had never
before considered survivalist preparations were burning up their credit cards
buying gas masks, prepared food, bottled water, firearms, and anything
else that joyous salesclerks could think of. Stockbrokers were putting bug-out-bags
in their Porsches, CEOs were stocking vacation homes with freeze-dried
food, and collage professors were picking out shotguns and learning all about
the restrictions that gun owners had complained about for years. Why? Because,
like most Americans, they had always assumed that America was invulnerable. The
assumption was that the CIA, the FBI, the State Department, the Army, Navy, Marines,
and Air Force would always prevent any attack on the U.S. Suddenly they were
shown just how disastrously incorrect that idea was.
The Twin Towers were more that just buildings, they were symbols of what we believed
America was. They were American power stretching far above the world and overshadowing
everyone else. They were American science and technology pointing toward the
sky and reaching for the stars. They were America’s gateways, like the
pillars of some great temple, leading to the mightiest nation on earth. And in
the space of hours, they were nothing more than dust and rubble and twisted debris.
No less symbolic was the destruction we saw at the Pentagon. Its architecture
suggesting a mighty fortress, it has, since its construction in the Second World
War, become the symbol of American military might. Seeing that building,
belching smoke, with debris scattered before it, seeing the bodies of dead and
wounded
American service men and women being carried away. Watching, while part of America’s
foremost citadel crumbled before us, said something to America, it said that
there is no one to defend us.
Perhaps the most psychologically damaging events were the Anthrax letters. We
might gripe and moan about the postal service, we might make fun of the mailman,
but we still see those words: “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom
of night stays these couriers
from the
swift completion of their appointed rounds.”
Many of us remember when the coming of the mailman was a special event, and opening
the mailbox was like a birthday that came six days a week, because you never
knew what kind of surprise would be inside. Sure, it lost part of its glow when
we discovered that most of what he brought was bills and junk, but deep inside
of us we were still that little kid who bounced up and down in front of the window
when we saw that gray uniform coming down the street. Then, to our horror we
saw that uniform as a threat, a gray specter that might be bearing a cargo of
powdered death to our door.
On that day Survivalism was reborn, most won’t call it that, the legacy
of the media image still lingers, but that is what it is. Too many of our symbols
have been trashed for us to ignore the truth anymore. We are vulnerable to any
number of attacks and no government can protect us. Oh sure the Feds might
bust 99 out of 100 of the bad guys, but when the one that gets
away is
packin’ a nuke or a few pounds of The Plague, how much difference
does it make? Let us not be so eager to lay those Cold War fears to rest either.
Russia is still pointing a few thousand nuclear weapons at us, while the Peoples
Republic of China is building more nukes, more missiles, more weapons period,
and China has never been shy about going to war in her own interests. Adding
in the regional powers like Iran and North Korea, both of whom have chemical
weapons, probably biological weapons, and are working day and night on nuclear
weapons as well as the means to deliver them, not only against their neighbors
but anywhere in the world, just how much less likely is such an attack today,
as compared to twenty years ago?
Many people have begun to understand they are now threatened, not merely in the
abstract, but on a very personal level. Now they feel the need to take command
of their lives. They see now that freedom means being responsible for their lives,
and the lives of their children. The day when they could afford to assume that
someone else would make sure that they were safe and protected are gone. The
idea that they may find themselves stranded somewhere, alone, hungry, in need
of water, food, and shelter is no longer inconceivable. Looking into the dust
of the Trade Center towers has finally given them a frame of reference for the
end
of the system which has kept them safe their whole lives, and they now understand
that, in the end, only they can help themselves, and that is the essence of Survivalism.
You WILL survive the end of the world... Probably...
This is the dirty little secret that your parents (and government) never told
you. In all but a very few of the scenarios for an end-of-civilization disaster,
the majority of the human race will survive the first twenty-four hours. If,
for instance, a medium-sized asteroid were to hit the Pacific Ocean, it would
probably kill a billion people the first day, but that would leave five billion
of us alive. That is more than the population of the earth in 1970. So,
unless you live on the west coast, or near an earthquake zone, or volcanically
active area, you have pretty good odds of making it through that first day. The
same goes for Nuclear War, caldera volcano explosion, socioeconomic collapse,
or any of the other major disasters which could wipe out our civilization.
Once you realize that the odds of surviving that first day are actually stacked
in your favor, you begin to realize that the event itself is less critical to
your survival than the loss of essential services which will follow the disaster.
So the question of whether or not you and your loved ones will live to see old-age
depends on your ability to provide the essentials of life for yourselves. This
goes double for the less earth-shattering disasters which people face on a much
more frequent basis, things like earthquakes, tornados, tsunami, flood, famine,
epidemic, war, riot, and blizzard. Because if you look at the statistics of past
disasters you find that more people end up homeless and destitute than dead,
and that many of the people who do die do so because they were unable to help
themselves after the event.
Now you might say, “If something bad were to happen, somebody will be there
to help me. The government, the Red Cross, or somebody, won’t they?” The
answer is a definite maybe, and that is the problem. In the event of a local
or regional disaster like a earthquake or hurricane, the usual mechanisms of
disaster-relief will undoubtedly be available, but when? How long will it be
before someone comes along to provide you and your family with food and water?
One day? Two? Ten? Longer? Do you really want to sit quietly, waiting for someone
else to provide for you?
We in the west, especially in America, have become used to the idea that someone
will always be there for us. For too long we have sat in front of the television
and watched while others have rushed to aid the victims of disaster. We have
reached a point where most people think that they can ignore the possibility
of disaster because the idea of disaster-relief has become a law of nature to
their minds. The problem is that our ability to render aid to the victims is
limited. We have seen our resources stretched to the limit before both in the
case of the Northridge earthquake and hurricane Andrew our disaster relief systems
were strained to the limit. Reports of people waiting days for help were not
uncommon.
If a truly huge disaster were to strike, say the Yellowstone caldera volcano
exploding, FEMA and the Red Cross would be swamped, and then where will you be?
Look at the people of New Orleans, did help reach them in time? Was the help
they received enough?
WHY?
This is THE question that every survivalist has asked and been asked more that
any other, and for most it is the hardest one to answer. The question usually
goes something like this: “Why would you want to survive when everyone
you
know is dead?” Or
perhaps, “What is the point of living after everything has been destroyed?”
Boy if I had a nickel... The problem with this question is not what it asks,
but rather what it says about the questioner. I mean, look at what these questions
really mean, life after some cataclysm will be really tough and you won’t
have people to help you, so why not just die and get it over with?
For myself, I could never internalize this kind of question. I thought it went
without saying that one should want to live, despite whatever hardships or difficulties
we may face in life. To say otherwise is to say that we do not deserve to live
now, much less after our society collapses. Hell, why should we want to live
in the face of any adversity? Would it not simply be easier to die than to face
the slings and arrows that life throws our way? Why go on at all, when death
is so much easier? The idea that I should simply decide to pack it in because
I might not have the fruits of civilization at my fingertips seems as ridiculous
as blowing my brains out over a hangnail.
The answer to ‘Why?’ is very simple: “Because I’m
worth it!” I am worthy of life! If the world must be rebuilt,
then no better man exists to carry out that task than myself! Sound egotistical?
So what? I
am not a man to grovel, and beg the world’s forgiveness for living. Neither
should you.
In our society, too many people have succumbed to the idea that we must apologize
for what we have and who we are. The idea that being raised as a child of western
civilization is some form of crime, that our existence is an affront to the
rest of humanity, and that only by debasing ourselves and giving up what he
have for
the “Less Fortunate” can we atone for the transgression of existing.
Bunk! The conditions of my birth were beyond my control, thus they are no sin
of mine. The actions of my ancestors were none of my doing, thus they place no
burden on me (beyond ensuring that I don’t commit the same injustices
myself). The condition of the world was not brought about by me, so why should
I be asked
to correct it? My life is what I control, and while I do not seek it injure
anyone by my actions, no man may ask that I ease his burdens by assuming them.
Forget
the guilt they hand you my friend, it is not yours. Forget the things that
others define you by, their standards are unworthy of you.
You must learn to define yourself according to your own standards of value, not
the shoddy standards of others. Look at the world we live in, this is the world
the people who will revile you have made. Is this the world you want? Is this
a world you want your children to live in? Is this the image of what you will
seek to rebuild, if rebuild you must? You must decide who and what you are, to
do otherwise is to be nothing but a slave to the person who you allow to define
you.
You must decide what your life is going to be about, and then you must act to
bring that purpose to fruition. You must do that which you know to be right and
you must reject what you know to be wrong. When you have made your decision,
when you act to enforce that decision, when you discover who and what you are,
then you will truly be free, and only a free man is worthy to live, instead of
simply existing.
A human being is unique in all the known universe (at least for the moment),
as we are the only creatures that exist in the future. Only we can conceive
of the world as it will be tomorrow, or centuries after our death. No other
animal
plans for a time beyond the moment, this moment, only man can look beyond the
eternal now. What do you look for? Do you look for a day when you will walk
on the face of Mars and stare at a sky no man has ever seen? Do you work for
a day
when your children or your children’s children will fly among the stars?
I do.
Survivalism is a path, a way of life that leads to our future. What will your
future be? Will it be a future where you drift aimlessly, moving from this
moment to that, praying that nothing happens? Will you live your life, hoping
that God
and the government will keep the world at bay, ensuring that you will have
all that you need in life? I won’t.
Many people accuse me of wishing for death and destruction, of expecting only
doom and gloom. Well my friends, they could not be more wrong. I am the one
who carries in his heart the hope of the world. I am one who look’s at
the future with optimism, because I know that, come what may, I WILL survive.
I WILL
carry on, I WILL ensure the survival of those I care for. I can do no less,
because my love of the world and my family demands no less, what about yours?
Our society is not simply dying, it is already dead. The motor of our world
has stopped and the movement we see is nothing more than momentum. Soon, one
of two
things will happen, we will either build a new motor, we will find a new purpose
and begin a new journey towards the future, or our wheels will finally stop.
Whichever happens, the future will not be decided by the looters or the animals
in human shape, it will be decided by the human beings. Whether the rebuilding
of our world is a physical reconstruction in the rubble of the past, or a reconstruction
of the spirit which carved nations from the wilderness, it is you who must
do it. When you make a commitment to survivalism, you are not giving in to
doom
and gloom, you are refusing to do so. The fools who spend their days trying
to ignore the passage of time, who waste their days marking time at a job they
hate,
wasting time in pursuit of “Entertainment,” or escape reality with
chemicals, they are the ones who hate life, not you. The essence of life is
to experience it, not to ignore it. The essence of survival is to LIVE, not
just
to exist. The survivalist strives to create and maintain his or her life, and
the lives of their children at the level of civilized human beings, not in
the moment to moment existence of animals.
The popular stories of a post-apocalyptic world show the brutal human animals,
raping and pillaging those weaker than they, and there may be an element of truth
in this. Good people are less fit to live in a world ruled by brute force. Not
because of a lack of intelligence or know-how, but simply because good people
have no need to take by violence, that which they may gain by work and trade.
The stupid, the criminal, the brutes of the world have nothing to trade, no work
to perform, they have nothing but their strength. The survivalist must also find
strength, strength of mind, strength of character, and strength of will. The
human animals are dangerous, but so are bears, or mountain lions, but none is
as dangerous as a trained human mind.
You, who are reading this, who simply wish to provide for yourself and your family,
you are worthy of life. You are a person fit to help rebuild the world, and to
make the new one better than the old. You are HUMAN, and I know of no greater
creature in all the universe. Now you simply need to convince yourself of it.
You need to know, not feel, not wish, not hope or believe, but know that this
is true. You are better than the animals who threaten us all, and who seek to
live at our expense, you are worth more than all of them put together. Because
you can help to put the world back together, while all they can do is destroy
the work of their betters.
Hi Jim,
I have been a big fan of yours for several years since I read your
book [Patriots]!
I was very excited to find your blog (via Claire
Wolfe's blog)
and have been reading it and recommending it since day four.
My husband and I have been busy socking money away into retirement
accounts to prepare for the future but after listening to your
interview with Geri Guidetti we decided to take the money we were
putting away in Roth IRAs and spend it instead on survival preparations.
There
are several reasons for this decision:
1) Roth IRA money is after tax money so you will have already paid
tax on it.
2) Roth IRA earnings are supposedly non taxable when withdrawn but
that law can be changed by Congress at any time.
3) Everything that we are buying would cost more in the future simply
due to inflation or scarcity.
We are very fortunate to own my husband's grandparents' old homestead
outside of Livingston, Montana. In the last year we have put in a modular
(with a wood stove) and a well in preparation for our retirement. Now
we have a year of storage food and a grain mill and enough medicines,
vitamins, toothpaste, toilet paper, etc. to last us several years.
We are living and working in Nevada (a non-income tax state) and buying
most of our provisions in Montana (a non sales tax state), except for
the foods, which we bought on our way through Idaho, at Walton Feeds.
The point I wanted to make is that if people are saving for their retirement
in any traditional accounts: IRAs, 401(k)s, etc., it might be a source
of money to instead put it into beans, bullets, and band-aids or as
you have said "tangibles." At least Congress can't take those
away from you by changing a law! Thanks for all you do. - Mrs. R. ,
Elko, Nevada
JWR Replies: I think that you have chosen a wise course of action. Getting away from any investment denominated in dollars will be a very good thing, since we are likely heading toward a full blown dollar crisis and devaluation in the near future. I'm a big believer in investing in tangibles. I do have an IRA, but since 1999 it has been a self-directed gold coin IRA with American Church Trust. The folks at Swiss America can help you set one up. Under some circumstances a 401(k) can be rolled over into an IRA. You might consider that.
By buying storage food now, you are: 1.) buying in bulk which means buying at the lowest possible price in today's market, 2.) beating eventual price increases, and 3.) protecting yourself from eventual scarcity. To borrow the modern parlance, food storage is a "win-win." The same principle applies to most other tangibles. Spoilage is not an issue if you buy foods that have been packaged for long term storage, if you keep it away from vermin, and if you rotate it religiously.
OBTW, be sure to pre-position the vast majority of your gear, storage food, and sundries at your Montana retreat, since you may only have one trip "outta Dodge." If the house is normally unoccupied and hence burglary is a concern, then one viable option is to store everything in a commercial storage space that is close to your retreat.
"A billion dollars isn't what it used to be." - Nelson Bunker Hunt
Note from JWR: Today we feature another entry for the SurvivalBlog writing contest. The prize is a transferable four day course certificate, good for any course at Front Sight. Enter your non-fiction articles via e-mail by the end of November to be considered for the contest.
Introduction
Let us review the basics of child rearing. Children are a gift from God and
we are to bring them up in the fear and admonition of the Lord. All preparedness
means nothing if we have prepared our children for the eternal fires of hell.
God, in His eternal wisdom and grace, providentially provided His son Jesus
to restore us to a loving relationship with the Almighty. God provides covenantal
blessings for those who obey Him and curses for those who don’t. With
that being said it is imperative that all our worldly preparation be first
and foremost spiritual because we are to store up that which is eternal and
lasts forever rather than the temporary. Furthermore, the Bible is very clear
as to our responsibility to provide for our own family which thus leads us
into this discussion. I have thoroughly
enjoyed Mr. Rawles's book Patriots and
find it to be the most comprehensive book of its kind. I was blind to the fact
I was not prepared for any small emergency that may occur. It shocked me into
action. Whether it is an evening storm outage or the full blown worse case
scenario I wasn’t ready. The following article is an attempt at providing
an addendum to Patriots for those families with small children. We
home school our five children ages 3 to 11 and found preparing for emergencies
take on a whole new meaning when plans must take into account those who can’t
account for themselves. The Patriots story fits a certain demographic
and my family doesn’t fit that profile. So here are my thoughts and ideas
on preparing a family with primary age children.
The Beginning
I truly believe that having the right mindset or belief system about preparedness
is essential. We are not hoarding out of panic or fear but making a concerted
effort to provide the necessities of daily living for an extended period
of time. Discretion is necessary because two things occur during preparation.
The first is possibly being socially ostracized by being labeled a survival
whacko by neighbors. These people are harmless until a survival situation
occurs and then they become problem number two-potential security risks.
I believe all preparedness should be disguised in some way. For instance,
all guns and equipment can be acquired for our camping and shooting hobbies
or purchasing food in bulk can be “taking advantage of a good sale." Whatever
you do just be creative in disguising all your actions especially with family
or friends. Likewise, our mindset should be long-term focused because being
prepared is a process, not an event. Preparedness begins with education
of the entire family and not just the spouse who is driving the agenda. A
family
should cultivate an environment of learning that permeates the entire daily
lives of its members. The more you educate yourself prior to purchases the
farther your dollar will go with wise decisions and quality buying habits.
Education
My education started with reading Patriots for the first time. I would
recommend everyone do the same because it gives you a realistic idea of the
effort required to get prepared. Once you make the decision to start you should
take a realistic inventory of your skill set and knowledge. Be honest about
how well you would do in a mild disruption, large-scale emergency and full-tilt TEOTWAWKI.
Start your reading list with the idea that you will prepare for the worst and
hope for the best. Start first with Beans, Bullets and Band-aids and in that
order.
Beans refer to getting educated on how to grow, store and prepare food in a
survival situation. This may at first seem a large burden on the parents but
children of all ages can have a keen role in this area. Children love gardening
and are good at planting and weeding. In fact, by the time I was 12 years old
I was responsible for half of our garden which included beans, broccoli, strawberries,
raspberries, onions, carrots and potatoes. Children are especially adept at
picking crops without ruining their backs or getting stuck by thorns in the
blackberry bush. Beware of “2 in the mouth and 1 in the bucket” blight
of these two-legged creatures. It can be as costly as infiltration of a four-legged
pest into your garden.
Turn off the TV! Or better yet, get rid of it altogether. The outdoors should
be a constant classroom as you walk, talk, weed, plow and play. By being outside
you have ample opportunity to teach across a broad spectrum of topics and curriculum.
For example I have attempted to link activities with teachable topics for preparedness.
I think you get the idea. Even something as simple and mundane as
football has value to prepare for a survival situation. The key is
to be creative and make it fun for the kids. I play a game with my
kids as we hike. We haven’t made the move to the country so we
drive over to a natural area on the edge of suburban Spokane. Our game
is called “Patrol” We hike in silence and in 5 yard intervals.
Each kid takes a turn at Point leading the way up to a pre-determined
destination and the others rotate bringing up the rear.
The really fun part is when I whisper “Danger Close!” or “Tango” we
race to find concealment and the last one to get concealed well is tagged.
When its time for a break we look for a rest spot that is concealed and yet
provides good line of sight for security. I don’t want to traumatize
them so the “bad guys” are the looters they saw on TV during Hurricane
Katrina coverage. Even kids know a bad guy when they see one. Children love
to learn and play games and if you can do both at once, Amen! Each teachable
moment is a short lecture about life and the world we live in.
You will train your children to improvise, adapt, and overcome life’s
challenges. Educate yourself in all aspects of the preparedness mindset but
don’t
exclude the little ones. They are just as eager to learn as you and may actually
retain more factoids than our aged brains.
Getting Out of Dodge
G.O.O.D. provides several
unique hurdles when preparing for children. Instead of breaking up
the topic into Beans, Bullets and Band-Aids I will discuss as an
all encompassing endeavor. Depending on the age of your children
preparedness has to take into account the child’s physiology
from the start. Teenagers don’t have inherent problems as do
tending to small pre-adolescent age groups. A teenager, for the most
part, has stopped growing or is growing into adult sizes that make
acquiring survival gear a bit easier.
Primary age children grow out of their clothes extremely fast and if a TEOTWAWKI
scenario occurs you must store sizes to grow into. I guarantee during TEOTWAWKI
Wal-Mart won’t be holding a clearance sale or Schumer Day sale on gear
(Actually if anyone would be open for business it probably would be Wally World).
I believe one can prepare in several ways for growing children and seasonal
changes in weather. Once again a little education can go a long way.
Preparation should encompass a layered approach starting with a 1) G.O.O.D.
Bag, 2) Rapid Deployment Bin and 3) Long-term Inventory. G.O.O.D. bag is a
backpack loaded with all essentials that are pre-packed and ready to go at
a moment’s notice. Mr. Rawles description in Patriot’s is a great
place to start. The idea with children is to size down the weight since kids
can’t carry at par and most likely won’t be carrying ammo and other
weighty items. Also make sure the clothing is sized up one size. Kids can fit
into something a bit larger but squeezing into something a size too small is
misery. Once you bring the weight down look to exchange adult items for kid
friendly items for comfort and entertainment. Add a couple of books and a deck
of cards or a travel size game instead of ammo or firearms. Also have a spare
set of clothing one size bigger to grow into.
Rapid Deployment Bins
The Rapid Deployment Bin is a supply prepared for rapid deployment where you
will travel by vehicle and not on foot. For instance, if you had ample warning
and were leaving home for a retreat location this would easily be picked
up and hauled with other necessary items. We use square plastic bins with
locking lids that conveniently stack and are transportable. One bin per kid
and you can easily prepare several years of clothing for all weather extremes.
Add two pairs of boots and two pair of snow boots and one child can be squared
away for at least two years. Coveralls are a great way to fit one child for
several growth spurts. Coveralls can fit even when their too big and can
be grown into over time. One pair of light[weight] and one insulated can
be stored easily to provide year-round protection. You may have realized
the problem of keeping all eggs in one basket. If I were to loose one bin
that child would be in a world of hurt. I am currently looking for some plastic
half-barrels to store two clothing units per kid and hold two for each member
of our household.
Long-Term Inventory
Long-term inventory at a retreat location would be similar to Rapid Inventory
arrayed in comparison to the Patriots example of lockers. The supply
of clothing and other necessities would be more in depth and take into consideration
long-term growth in height and weight of children. It would also be wise to
add some patches and Shoo-Goo into your sewing kit to add calendar life to BDUs
and boots. Knees on pants and soles on boots can wear out faster than other
articles. Repairing means some items can be handed down to smaller kids when
outgrown by its owner. Once kids grow out of a size and you run out of kids
to hand them down they will make great charity or barter items.
Purchasing and Storage
We have two methods for obtaining and storing clothing that saves time, money
and storage space. My wife is warrior shopper which means she finds all the
deals and never pays full price. We found a new pair of Sorrel winter boots
in a youth size for only $3.00 at a local thrift store. The most intriguing
part is that it was August when she bought them. Remember: Preparing is a
process not an event. Start with a list of sizes and actual gear you need
to outfit the family. Camo gear can be hard to come by but light brown and
earth tones aren’t. Buy the earth tones and browns which can easily
be dyed to some level of camouflage during bad times.
Thrift stores and garage sales are the only way to go. We also plan to buy
a sewing machine and learn a few basics on manufacturing our own clothing.
You can now buy polar fleece camouflage material in several patterns which
can save a bundle compared to store bought outer gear. Be diligent with the
yard sales because in our area the local Russian immigrant population hits
the sales right as they open between 7 and 9 AM. We have found that they can
take all the good stuff before you even get a chance.
A big recommendation for G.O.O.D. bag, Rapid Deployment Bins and Long-term
retreat storage is the use of a vacuum sealer. You can seal
a whole set of clothing in one pouch. It saves on G.O.O.D. bag space and bin
space also. For an example, in a large bag I can fit 1 pair of BDUs, 3 t-shirts,
3 underwear, 5 socks and one set polypropylene and that is vacuum sealed into
a space the size of a laptop computer. Planning ahead and have several sets
all prepared and sealed allows for additional storage space. Label each bag
with a marker for age and size information to make inventory easy and you are
set to store for use, charity or barter. The sealer works great for dried food
items also so this is a great purchase for beginning to get squared away. Shop
online for the best deals or even check local “nickel” want ads.
Caching
I have a few quick thoughts on a cache that may be easier on the pocket book.
If you are looking to cache some items you don’t have to wait until
you have a big pile but you can cache in increments. Five gallon food grade
buckets can be used as personal or individual caches. Restaurants throw these “buckets” away
on a regular basis. Contact a local burger joint and ask them if you can
have their pickle buckets when finished. Soak overnight in a little bleach
water to remove the vinegar smell. Use a small plastic garbage bag to line
the interior before placing items inside. If the restaurant destroys or cuts
the lid you can purchase replacements at paint stores or nearest warehouse
lumber store.
Placement of the buckets in the ground can be done individually as you prepare
them. I recommend sealing the lid with duct tape and placing the bucket into
black garbage bags before putting into the ground. Use the heavy duty contractor’s
grade garbage bags; they cost a little more but are super heavy duty and will
take 30+ years to decompose in the soil. Place your bucket into one bag and
then inside a second bag for double layer protection. I prefer a long trench
for my cache to make recovery as simple as possible. Once I find the first
bucket I know where exactly the others are in a linear
formation. You can save time and energy later by lining the trench and back-filling
around the buckets with pea gravel up to 3 inches over the top. The last 12
inches should be normal top-soil or fill. There are several reasons to use
pea gravel. First, it allows better water drainage over time so there is little
chance of moisture compromising your cache. Second, rocks can be pushed into
and break open the plastic containers that’s why irrigation, telecom
and other utility pipe is installed with sand first and then backfilled with
dirt. Third, pea gravel helps recovery of cache if done when conditions aren’t
ideal. If you have to recover in the dark the pea gravel will contrast to top
soil by sight and sound when digging. It also makes removal of buckets easier
since
they will just slide out and won’t have to be dug from compacted soil.
It can also help if you have to dig with primitive tools or your hands.
Defense/Combat Training
I am a graduate of Front
Sight Firearms Training School. I cannot stress enough the overall value
of spending time at that facility. They took me from dangerous novice to Distinguished
Graduate status in four days. I was ignorant of just how dangerous I was to
myself and others. I had gone through a basic hunter’s Ed class at age
12. I have hunted many years in the woods of northeastern Washington chasing
deer and in the blinds of the Pend Oreille River freezing my tail off for the
occasional duck and goose. Being around guns all your life actually makes you
complacent and more dangerous than a novice. Just because you’ve been
around guns your whole life doesn’t mean you are safe. Once you have
professional grade training you will be astonished at just how much you didn’t
know. So before you go off and try to teach combat skills make sure you have
time-tested education in this area. Even with my level of skill I am slowly
introducing responsible gun handling to my kids. When we are out in the woods
they can take toy guns or BB guns and they are to practice muzzle control.
At home during dry practice we practice snapping in and breathing for sight/target
control and trigger control. These elements come together when we take the
Chipmunk .22 out to the range. The kids are already proficient with open sights
at 25 yards.
Bottom line is you will always fall back to your highest level of training
during a combat/life saving situation. If you can’t do the right thing
without thinking about it you are likely a danger to yourself and others if
the threat level goes black. Don’t wait to find out the hard way by causing
injury or death negligently. Get the training-it’s worth it!
Conclusion
I hope I have provided some helpful hints and ideas. If you have a better thought
or suggested improvement please share them in a follow up letter. I know
I have come a long way but I am just getting started in this process of becoming
prepared. It is comforting to know that God’s providence rules over
all things. Preparedness must be in submission to His law or it is hoarding,
which is sin. If you don’t know the difference go seek guidance from
your pastor or church elder. There are blessings for those who keep His commandments
and curses for those who don’t. We are not guaranteed an easy life
or a life free from persecution or strife but His path will not lead you
astray. God Bless and get started. - B.H. in Spokane
Jim, I think your estimations on the results of a pandemic are ... incomplete.
Say the worst case scenario happens...say 1/3 of the population of the US
dies.
That is 100-million or so people, out of 300 million or so.We really don't
know what segments of the population H5N1 will attack. In Asia, it's attacking
the very young mostly but they're also the ones that
have the most contact with the infected fowl. The 1918 Spanish Influenza
killed mainly young to middle aged, very healthy people, but that was from
secondary infection that couldn't be treated (today we have antibiotics that
would work on the sequalae of the viral infection). So, we don't know which
parts of the population will be most at risk.
The population of the United States reduced to 200 million would be a terrible
tragedy. But to put it in perspective, the population of the United States
was 200-million in 1965. Since 1965, we've gone to the moon, mapped the human
genome, developed technology that I won' bother to repeat. However, life
in 1965 wasn't exactly terrible, not like the 'dark ages' that bubonic plague
kept Europe in.
Call me an optimist, but should the worst happen I think it would take a
relatively short time (less than 50 years) before the economic growth of
the US (in particular) regains it's former levels. Climbing a mountain the
second time is always easier, since we already know the route. - "Flighter"
JWR Replies: Hmmmm...
I thought that I had been intentionally optimistic in
my estimate of the potential effects. Imagine a situation
where people are panicky because
of an outbreak of an easily transmissible flu strain in the United States--even
in just one region. Who is going to
continue to show up for work? Will the 18 wheelers continue to roll--restocking
the grocery stores? (A situation exacerbated by the inevitable panic buying.)
Will the fuel tankers still dock at American ports? Will supply trucks
be allowed to cross Federally dictated quarantine lines? Will the coal
trains
continue to
arrive at
the
power
plants?
Our
economy
is a
widely distributed web of interdependency. The supply chains are almost
ridiculously long. The modern microwave convenience foods oven come
immediately to mind. Take for example, a bag of Stouffer's
Chicken/Vegetable Stir Fry: Where
are each of ingredients grown or raised?
(The following is mostly conjecture.) The wheat for the pasta (Kansas?),
the Broccoli (California?), the Chicken (Arkansas?), the tomatoes (Chile?),
the bell
peppers
(Texas?), the carrots (Alabama?), the parsley (Oregon?), the water chestnuts
(China?) the white
long grain rice (Louisiana?), the
pineapple and sugar (Hawaii?), the molasses to combine with the sugar to
make brown sugar (Tennessee?) the ginger (Japan?) the sesame oil
and curry powder (India?), the salt (California?), the apple cider vinegar
(Vermont?), the "yeast extract" (a pseudonym for MSG)
(Taiwan?), the corn starch (Iowa?) Consider that each food and spice
transits many states by truck or train or even across oceans in cargo containers
before arriving at the Stouffer Corporation food processing plant in Solon,
Ohio. There, they
are cooked
and flash frozen. OBTW, where
is that plastic bag
made? And where is the ink on the label made? Then those bags are boxed
up in cardboard box that is made in a nearby Ohio town. But wait! The
wood pulp that makes the paper
for the
box comes from trees felled in Washington and milled in Idaho. Then, through
a different
chain of supply-again
transiting umpteen states--the the boxed bags of frozen entrees must be kept
continuously frozen until it makes
it to your
local store
freezer case. An optimist would call this a "modern miracle." As
a ornery pessimist,
I call it a disaster waiting to happen.
With these long chains of supply, I predict that it won't take much to collapse the whole works. Of course, we've never seen something of this magnitude happen to a modern technological society. Our entire society is geared toward driving down costs by choosing the absolute lowest cost components/ingredients, regardless of their place of origin, and then storing as few of them as possible. (The "kan ban" or "just in time" supply system--again to minimize costs.) In the 1930s, more than 20% of the population lived on family farms. Today, 2% of the population feeds the other 98%. And in the 1930s chains of supply were short--the vegetables in the grocery stores mostly came from nearby truck farms.
We have built ourselves a house of cards! Just pray that people keep coming to work out of economic necessity. I agree that the road back to economic recovery following a collapse could potentially be swift, given our level of technology. But if one of the key enabling infrastructures (grid power, telecommunications, or transportation) gets badly broken then our technological sophistication could turn out to be our Achilles' Heel.
"The right of the citizens to keep and bear arms has justly
been considered, as the palladium of the liberties of a republic; since
it offers a strong moral check against the usurpation and arbitrary
power of rulers; and will generally, even if these are successful in
the first instance, enable the people to resist and triumph over them."
- Supreme Court Justice Joseph Story (Appointed by James Madison)
I have been studying the implications of a possible Asian Avian Flu pandemic. In a "worst case" scenario, what would be the long term effects on the economic infrastructure in the event of a 20%, 30%, or 40% de-population of the planet? The only historic parallel that comes immediately to mind is the "Black Death" plague pandemic in Europe. The resultant de-population caused massive labor shortages in subsequent decades. And that of course was in a non-technological and largely agrarian society. What happens to a highly technological, highly interdependent society with extremely long chains of supply?
What are the full implications, both at the societal level, and for each of us, living out in the boonies? Most SurvivalBlog readers pre-positioned gear or live full time at our retreats. OBTW, with a tip of the hat to The Mogambo Guru's outrageous acronyms, I call our retreat's storage room: "Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy." (JASBORR)
I recently put on my Prognostication Hat and considered the far reaching implications of a pandemic. With the help of the fine folks over at The Claire Files (our designated discussion forum for SurvivalBlog topics), I came up with a few conclusions. I'd appreciate your comments on factors that I might have overlooked.
Likely Effects: Just the fear of exposure will greatly change the way people interact. I predict that while most lower and middle class families will be forced by circumstances (most notably paycheck dependence and lack of savings) to continue their normal daily routines, upper class families will go into "cocooning mode" (self-quarantine) as much as possible. This effect may last well beyond the period when the pandemic is active in any particular region.
Here are some comments from readers of my pandemic discussion thread at The Claire Files:
"Merlin419" wrote: "The spread of such a disease would not be selective in the loss of population. Some skilled professions would be harder hit than others."
"Merlin419" also later added: "Knowing how to read plans is a plus for some of us. The main thing is to gather as much knowledge as possible. A simple on for your self would be easier to buy but if you want plans on hand check this one out; http://hbd.org/mtippin/woodmill.html looking at things now while still available is one more small step to self survival."
"Bellis" wrote:... if I remember correctly
the Black Death in the U.K. killed about one third of the population
and
led to a change from oversupply
of labour to drastic shortages of skilled and unskilled workers. This
led to wage increases as might be expected. However the employers
were not happy, and national price and wage controls were put into
place to try to keep wage inflation down. When this failed restrictions
on movement were tried to prevent workers moving to a better position. None
of these lasted long and there was a lot of 'black market' activity
in labour - there are also several rags to riches tales from the period.
One other feature was that the more marginal areas of the country became
abandoned after the plague died down as the survivors saw better opportunities
for themselves and moved on. Whole villages were deserted -
any survivor of a modern plague may just see their neighbourhood die
out anyway as the other survivors see a better life elsewhere.
As to the economy, we do indeed live in a much more specialised and
mechanised economy than before, with much longer and more complicated
supply and delivery chains, and much more centralised production. This
I think will cause major problems during and after any epidemic, and
any heavily mechanised industry - whether it be food production, textiles,
heavy industry etc could be affected...
Most people today have specialised in one small part of a much larger
manufacturing chain. Losing any one of those links in the chain
will stop the entire process until a new person can be found, assuming
that a replacement can be trained at all. And even if the machines
can be kept working, they cannot work around problems like humans can
- a skilled worker can take raw materials that are nearly right and
do the job anyway, modern machinery has to have exactly the right materials,
to very fine tolerances, at exactly the right time or else. Modern
manufacturing is extremely dependent upon things working just so -
any disruption to any part of the chain can stop the entire process
in its tracks.
Even worse... restarting local production, from what skills and tool
base? Most production is heavily centralised and the tooling
and machinery industries geared up to supplying a few very large concerns. Where
are you going to get the new plant and machinery to set up a new flour
mill for example, who even knows what one should look like? How
many people are actually skilled workers, and how many are really glorified
machine managers - a generation or so ago most would at least have
had some idea or experience of hand tools / production methods,
but today? Where do you find your miller, baker etc? God forbid this
kind of thing ever happens... living through the epidemic will be bad
enough, but the first decade or so afterwards would probably
be worse..."
"Bear" wrote: "It's not hard to imagine a situation where enough key people go missing (die, leave, run away, etc..) that complex manufacturing and production systems fail. We could end up living with production systems more like late 19th or early 20th century simply because they are more flexible, if less efficient."
Definitely some FFTAGFFR there! I greatly appreciate their replies. Now, back to some of my own observations:
The biggest losers will be the airlines. Already hurting because of terrorism and more recently from the shock of fuel price increases, the fear of a pandemic may be "the last nail in the coffin" for many airlines.
The continuum of severity for a pandemic will be something like the following (from best case to worst case):
Best Case: Widespread Public Fear, but no significant loss of life.
1% to 5% Loss of Life (mostly overseas), Grid-up. A lengthy economic recession. Minor economic dislocation/readjustment
10% Loss of Life, Grid-up. Major economic dislocation, demographic shifts.
20% Loss of Life, Grid-up. Severe/recurring economic recessions or depressions. Major demographic shifts and involuntary relocation of population.
30% Loss of Life, Grid-down short term. Deep long term economic depression. Major social unrest.
Worst Case: 40% or More Loss of Life, Grid-down long term. Full Scale Economic Collapse. A Second Dark Age
JWR's Predicted Winners and Losers if Grid Up (Mild Pandemic):
Winners |
Losers |
| Small charter airlines | Large airlines |
| Home-based businesses | Public school attendance & school teachers |
| Telecommuters | Public transportation |
| Storage food packagers and sellers | Theaters |
| Security-related businesses (Alarm companies, Locksmiths) | Church attendance |
| Mail order businesses | Life insurance companies |
| Home-schooling and curricula suppliers | Health insurance companies |
| DVD& CD mail order sales/rentals | Any business dependent of face to face contact |
| Hand sanitizer manufacturers | Traveling salesmen |
| Antibacterial soap manufacturers | Pay phone and vending machine companies |
| Camping/survival gear manufacturers | Gambling industry, casinos, slot machines makers |
| Electronic banking | Large retail chain stores |
| Shopping/delivery services | Sporting events/leagues/venues |
| Internet service providers | Concert venues |
| Cellular phone companies | Convention Centers/Convention Organizers/Promoters |
JWR's Predicted Winners and Losers if Long Term, Grid Down, (Severe Pandemic):
Winners
|
Losers
|
| Small family farms | Most businesses |
| Home-based businesses making practical products | Most industries |
| Manual Laborers (due to long term labor shortages) | Public schools (likely to never recover) |
| People with specialized hand craft skills | Public transportation (likely to never recover) |
| People with specialized repair skills | Airlines (likely to never recover) |
| Experts in 19th century technology | Church attendance--may re-emerge as small home churches |
| Second hand stores | Life insurance companies (likely to never recover) |
| Small scale welding and machining shops | Health insurance companies |
| Auto, truck, and tractor mechanics | Any large public venue (stadiums, concert halls, casinos, ...) |
I'd appreciate your comments and suggestions via e-mail to expand on this topic.
This is one one the latest of the well-known Leatherman line of multipurpose folding tools. Think of it as a Leatherman on steroids. This model includes:
The sheath is stiff black-dyed leather with a metal snap closure. It slides onto a normal belt fairly easily and fits the knife well.
One of the best features of the Super Tool 200 is the locking blades. If any tool is rotated completely out it locks in position and will not flip back to a closed position until the lock release tab is pulled back. This makes it take a little longer to close, but it is worth keeping your fingers. The Super Tool measures 0.75" x 1.25" x 4.5" and weighs a whopping 9 ounces--nearly twice as much as the original Leatherman Tool. This is one of the few detractors, but the weight is to be expected from such a sturdy and versatile tool. Now that I am used to carrying, it I can run and hike without loosing my balance. ;-)
Unless you do not like carrying a large or relatively heavy knife in a belt pouch, I think the Leatherman Super Tool 200 would be a good choice.This model is available from Ready Made Resources and several other vendors.
For two successive weekends, I was interviewed by Dr. Geri Guidetti of The Ark Institute on her shortwave/webcast radio show. The topic of both of these two hour interviews was family preparedness for a potential influenza pandemic. These interviews are available for free download from Republic Radio in a variety of audio streaming formats at: http://mp3.rbnlive.com/Geri05.html
Hi Jim,
I enjoy the blog very much! I have your advertisers in mind when looking
to purchase. I read your answer about the Remington 7400/7600 models, what
is your opinion of the 7600 Police model with the heavy barrel? Thank You,
- Frank
JWR Replies: A heavy barrel 7600 would be slightly better, but they still are not made to military specifications.You can expect slightly better accuracy--since the barrel has more thermal mass--but the same functioning/chambering problems will be encountered during extended strings of rapid fire. Consider that for about the same price as a new Model 7600 Police, you can buy a slightly used FAL clone or L1A1 clone which will be just about unstoppable. See the FALs and L1A1s for sale at the FAL Files (Marketplace Forum) or at GunsAmerica.com.
Jim,
Just thought your readers would like to know that for limited time we are
willing to trade DVDs for junk silver (pre-1965 only). Say someone wants
to receive three
of our DVDs. We pay our shipping to them and they pay their [for the silver]
shipping to us. We will allow in trade 6.24 times face value for these coins.
So for example, for the equivalent of $49.95 for three DVDs, you would need to
send:
83 silver dimes, or
34 silver quarters, or
16 half dollars, or
7 silver dollars
A good combo trade would be (pre-'65) 20 dimes, 8 quarters, 4 half dollars, and
2 silver dollars. Again, this works out to $49.95. The face value in coin is
8 dollars a retail value of 6.24 times face value. Of course you can trade for
as many DVDs as you would like. Check the list of DVD titles at: http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Video-Home-Sales.htm- "Buckshot"
JWR Replies: I highly recommend Buckshot's videos. They are a "must" for anyone serious about preparedness, because trapping will be crucial for family provisioning, barter, and charity. I also recommend that people get in the habit of doing some of their business via barter. This may become a necessary skill in the near future.
"An investment in knowledge always pays the best interest." - Benjamin Franklin
Note from Jim: At SurvivalBlog, we pride ourselves on writing original content, rather than just aggregating things that we've found elsewhere on the web. Occasionally, however, a few MSM or web news stories come along that we think would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers. The next two stories that were gleaned from Yahoo fit in this category:
This story is fairly novel, and serves as food for thought and grounds for further research (FFTAGFFR.) If the CIA finds such technology appropriate for Third World living conditions, shouldn't we also, as individuals--for the event that the U.S. economy is somehow, someday plunged to that level? See: http://news.yahoo.com/s/csm/20051018/ts_csm/aplugandplay_1
Perhaps it is the sharp memory of Hurricane Katrina working on the
collective psyche, but the
mass media is finally starting to warm to the concept of greater self-sufficiency.
Take,
for example, this
story that recently ran
in Yahoo: http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20051019/lf_nm/bizfeature_woodstoves_dc_1
I often have people ask me why I place an emphasis on pre-1899 firearms. Some
go so far as to ask "What's the big deal about the privacy of
pre-1899 antiques when I can still buy modern guns from newspaper ads with
no paper trail?" My reply
is that it is a big deal. Think this through, folks.
No FFL is required to buy or sell
antique guns across state lines. They are in the
same legal category as a muzzle-loading
replica. This is the last bastion of gun ownership and transfer
privacy. Although your state and local laws may vary, any firearm with
a frame or receiver that was actually made before Jan. 1, 1899 is legally "antique" and
not considered a "firearm" under Federal law. That puts
it entirely outside of Federal jurisdiction. Note that this refers to the
actual date of manufacture of the receiver/frame, not just model
year
or patent
date marked. (For example, only low
serial number Winchester
Model 1894 lever actions are actually antique.)
Unlike "Curio and Relic" category modern guns, sporterizing,
re-barreling, or re-chambering an antique gun does not change its
legal status. Thus, you can buy pre-1899 Mauser sporters that have been converted
to modern cartridges
like .308 Winchester without having to go through the "FFL to FFL" hassle.
(I have a BATF letter confirming this, that I send upon request. Just send
me a SASE with "ATF Letter" written
inside the flap if you'd like a free copy.) If you currently live in a state
that has unregulated private
party
sales of used guns, then that is great. But don't expect that
situation to last forever. Likewise, don't expect that we will never
see the day when there is universal firearms registration in this country.
That could happen.
If and when it does occur, what will you do then? If you don't want to register
your guns you will
most likely end up greasing
and burying them in watertight containers like
they've done in Canada and down in Oz.
Think further ahead: What will you then have available to use on a day
to day basis for target practice,
hunting,
or
self-defense? The
answer:
Pre-1899 guns. They have not been considered "firearms" since
passage of the Gun Control Act of 1968.(The 1898 threshold was set with that
legislation.)
In the eyes of legislators, they are a insignificant "non-issue." Because
they are so uncommon and because there are fewer of them with each passing
year, they will presumably be exempt
if we ever have to face nationwide gun registration.
Pre-1899 production guns now bring a 30% to 200% premium over
identical condition guns that were made after 1898. For example,
in 2002, I sold a 1898-dated M1896 Swedish Mauser rifle that was dated
1898 on an AuctionArms.com on-line
auction for $770! Based on market
trends, I expect the pre-1899 premium to increase considerably in the next
few years. (Perhaps even tripling or quadrupling in value if modern (post-1898)
guns become subject to registration or additional transfer controls.) Many
SurvivalBlog readers are commenting that they previously had no interest
in "antique" guns,
but they now want at least one because they are concerned about additional
gun laws. For the time being at least, pre-1899 are completely EXEMPT from
all
federal
laws. Again, this would presumably mean that
they would be exempt
if there is ever nationwide gun registration.
I am regularly asked what I would consider a "basic battery" of pre-1899 guns for a typical shooter that wants to diversify and "hedge his bets" by buying some pre-1899s for his family. Here is what I'd recommend buying :
If you have a big budget, you should also consider investing in few additional pre-1899 Colts and Winchesters that are chambered for commonly available factory made ammunition.
And what about someone who is on a very tight budget? I'd
recommend a Spanish or Chilean Model 1893 or 1895 Mauser (7 x57), or a Turkish
Model 1893 Mauser (8 x57.) Both
can be had for under $250 in original condition, or often for under $150 if
sporterized. Most Iver Johnson .38 S&W
top break revolvers are also still a relative bargain at $100 to $250 each.
Due to their scarcity and desirability, the rate of increase in the value of
shootable cartridge pre-1899 guns is likely to accelerate. Here
are some examples: In 1997, .44-40 S&W double action top break revolvers
were selling for $400 to $800. They now sell for $900 to $2,000. In
1997, .38 S&W double action top break revolvers were selling for $50 to
$150. They now sell for $200 to $800. In 1997, .44-40 Merwin Hulbert
revolvers were selling for $300 to $1000. They now sell for $900 to $4,000.
Meanwhile, many pre-1899 Colt revolvers have been bid up to unaffordable--almost
astronomical--prices.
After Nov. 30, 1998 the permanent Brady Law rules went into effect. On that date all sales of post-1898 guns--both long guns and handguns--came under the federal control of "national instant background checks." Subsequently there has been a much bigger interest in guns that are Federally exempt and that can be bought via anonymous mail order or at gun shows with no "paper trail"!
For more details on pre-1899 guns, including an extensive list of serial number "breaks" (for determining which guns are pre-1899 and which are not) read my Pre-1899 Cartridge Guns FAQ
Quality pre-1899 guns are available from a number of reputable dealers including The Pre-1899 Specialist, Empire Arms, and The Arm Chair Gun Show (Jim Supica.)
JWR Replies: I agree that a.30 caliber centerfire a rifle is essential, both for hunting and self defense. Keep in mind, however, that civilian hunting semi-autos and pumps are not designed to withstand the sustained high rate of fire that might occur in a full scale post-TEOTWAWKI firefight. Their internal tolerances are so precisely machined that they are likely to bind up when the action gets hot. Also be aware that they are more tightly chambered than military arms.(Which have intentionally loose dimensions.) You cannot depend on something like a Remington 760 or 7600 to keep shooting reliably after 200 rounds of rapid fire. Nor can you expect them to keep shooting reliably with muddy or gritty cartridges. (As a test, with a Remington 740 or 760 series, try chambering some cartridges that have had their necks smeared with toothpaste. (DO NOT attempt to fire the rifle in this condition--this is only to demonstrate chambering limitations!) Now try the same with a FAL, HK, CETME, or M1A. Odds are that the bolt on the Remington will not go fully forward, whereas the bolt on a military arm usually will. A civilian pump action or semi-auto hunting rifle might suffice in a pinch, but not in an extended firefight! Plan your battery accordingly.
Jim:
I just purchased ten Canadian silver dollars. The ones I bought were from
1990. They contain 1 ounce of 99.99 silver.They cost me $11 each including
shipping. I bought them for making colloidal silver in bad times. They are
the purest silver coins I have seen yet. - C.R.Z.
Mr. Rawles:
What do you think of silver “rounds.” That is,
those ounces of silver sized like a silver dollar, but not minted as a negotiable
coin of the realm. They may commemorate Christmas of a certain year or have
some other decorative design. Many times these can be found significantly
lower in price than a standard silver dollar with the same silver content.
I much
prefer an official silver dollar, but would like to hear your thoughts. -
C.G., Morganton, N.C.
JWR Replies: Silver "rounds" (or "trade dollars") that are .999 fine (99.9% pure silver) do indeed have their place in survival planning. Colloidal silver generation is definitely one of these uses. Just be sure to rub them down thoroughly with alcohol to clean them and dry them before use with a colloidal silver generator. As for barter, however, I believe that pre-1965 mint date "junk" silver will be much more recognizable and trusted by the average gent on the other side of the barter table. If you bring out silver rounds to trade, then the topics of authenticity and assay are sure to come up. The first question will be: "How do I know those are real?" In contrast, pre-'65 silver coins will probably be accepted without hesitation. The only point of disagreement about their barter value may be if the coins are heavily worn--and that is a minor hurdle compared to basic recognition of authenticity. So I recommend that all of your designated "barter" silver be pre-1965 dimes, quarters, half dollars or silver dollars.
Above and beyond your purchase of barter silver coins, if you want some "time
machine" silver to maintain the value your nest egg from one side of a
financial crisis to another, then it should be in the form of the least expensive
silver
bullion
on the market. The lowest premiums (per ounce) are found on 100 ounce bullion
bars. (BTW, they make great "ballast" to help keep a burglar
from hauling off your
gun vault.) The Engelhard, Johnson-Matthey, and Sunshine Minting brands are
the most well-known makers for eventual resale. But in essence, silver
bullion is silver
bullion.
Regardless of the maker's name, just be sure that you buy serialized bars so
that you will be less likely to pay assay fees when you re-sell. If, however,
you have the option to pick from different types all at the same
price, then buy
the
later
Engelhard
bars
in the "flag" logo hard plastic wrappers, with no tarnish. Those
seem
to
have
the
greatest resale appeal.
Due to the minting cost, one ounce rounds carry a higher premium per ounce.
At times, however, you can
buy them
for close to the day's spot price. Ask around at coin shows if any of the dealers
have any "beater" or badly tarnished Christmas or commemorative rounds.
You should
be
able to get those for just a few pennies over spot, especially in today's
rising market.
The
highest premium for silver is on the nationally minted one ounce rounds (such
as the silver U.S. Eagle,
the silver
Canadian
Maple
Leaf,
and the
silver
Aussie Kookaburra.) As of this writing, those currently sell for $9 to $15
each, which is far
above the
spot price of silver.
"..the simple truth -- born of experience -- is that tyranny thrives best where government need not fear the wrath of an armed people.The prospect of tyranny may not grab the headlines the way vivid stories of gun crime routinely do. But few saw the Third Reich coming until it was too late. The Second Amendment is a doomsday provision, one designed for those exceptionally rare circumstances where all other rights have failed -- where the government refuses to stand for reelection and silences those who protest; where courts have lost the courage to oppose, or can find no one to enforce their decrees. However improbable these contingencies may seem today, facing them unprepared is a mistake a free people get to make only once."- Federal Court of Appeals Judge Kozinski (an immigrant from Eastern Europe), as recently quoted by John Stossel
Another issue of my very favorite magazine just arrived and I wanted
to tell you all about it. It is "The magazine of modern homesteading":
Countryside and Small Stock Journal. Unlike most magazines
out there, C&SSJ has a very low ad to content
ratio. It doesn't waste page space with lots of pretty photos or other
fluff like the other "country" magazines. And it is written
by the subscribers. C&SSJ
is 130 pages full of
practical information! The Nov/Dec.2005 issue contains full length
articles about purchasing
and
using a masonry
stove, how to build a "cut back" thermostat to reduce energy
use, and several other alternative energy articles. Each issue features
a question of the month, this issues question was "How to start
a home business on the homestead" There
were
thirteen thoughtful replies to the question from readers who had
done just that. Not only were there a number of innovative home-based
business
ideas, but the writers pointed out the benefits and costs of their
particular businesses as well as their successes and failures. Each
issue of C&SSJ has a number of how to articles. This
issue features how to build a smokehouse,
make soap, make a boot scraper, how to repair a hose, and build
an egg incubator from an old cooler. Each issue also features regular
departments The Garden, The Country Kitchen, The Henhouse, The
Livestock Barn, which always contain great
ideas and timely tips from readers. This issue had articles about seed
companies, turnips, recipes for pumpkins,salsas, relish, wheat berries,
and sourdough starter, just to highlight a few! I think C&SSJ is
a good value because there is so much content crammed into each issue.
The fact that C&SSJ is reader-written is another reason why I prefer
Countryside and Small
Stock Journal to all other "country" magazines. The articles
are written by people actually living on
homesteads who tell it like it is. C&SSJ writers don't sugar coat
their experiences. They don't edit out the
parts about the obnoxious neighbors, the predators that killed half their
chicken flock, or the prized dairy goat that died of bloat. You get the
unvarnished truth about country life. How refreshing!
The newsstand price of C&SSJ is $3.95. $18 for a year subscription.
Subscriptions: Countryside Subscriptions, P.O. Box 3190, Van Nuys, Calif.
91407
Their toll
free # is: 800-551-5691 Subscription website:: http://www.countrysidemag.com
Jim,
Here is a letter that I was going
to write to a guy in response to an inquiry on what timberland was
running for here in northern Idaho. It might be of interest to the
blog readers.
In the northwest, when looking for a retreat most of us are looking
for timbered property. We imagine tall big trees with a house settled
down in the hallow or located in some vantage point and defensible.
I have given a lot of thought to the idea that if I had the assets
what
would I be looking for in timberland, best bang for my buck so to
speak. A stand of mature timber comes with some advantages and many
disadvantages.
Large timber on property allows good thermal cover and a good screen
from a distance. It can pose some fire danger and in fierce winds it
does not matter if the stand is dense or not--it can be very intimidating.
With merchantable timber you will pay for the timber on the property.
If the prior owner logs it, he logs it to his prescribed cut (i.e.
taking what he wants, not what you would like to be
there.) The end results being something other than the vision you had
for your
retreat. Once
logged, large trees further become risks as they are now susceptible
to wind throw, unless, the tree has been open grown for awhile so that
wind firmness applies. The advantages of buying property without merchantable
timber outweighs the disadvantages in my mind. You do not pay for
a cruise to determine standing volume and thus pay the owner for that
capital on the stump.The best case is the property was logged a while
ago, allowing time to catch up and the regenerated seedlings to grow
and the slash to decompose.
The ideal: Something that was logged 15-to-20 years ago. Hopefully, it
would have been burned and planted. Ideally, trees that are 3-to-4
inches in diameter at 4.5 feet [from the ground], anywhere from 16-to-30
feet
tall, with good healthy crowns occupying 40% or more of the bole. These
trees would be in prime growing condition, if spaced properly, and
could soon be usable. ("Soon" being in another 10-15 years.)
This scenario, unfortunately for the retreat hunter, would be a rare
case indeed.
Most stands for sale are left with the poorest specimens of the trees
that existed prior to harvest. These are left as seed trees. Usually,
the lowest value species are also left. So, you end up with land full
of slash, often choked with trees that are of poor genetics, and often
not the best species to have growing on your land. What you have then
is a lot of work in clean up.
Whatever area you happen to be looking in, it is always wise to become
familiar with what tree species are present, where they grow best,
etc. It can tell you a lot about the site. An example: In my area of
northern
Idaho, lodgepole and spruce with an absence of Red Cedar means you
are in a pretty cold area. You should also be aware that certain species
are susceptible to pests and diseases that can soon wipe out all your
cover and future firewood. In the lowlands, with sedimentary soils,
grand fir, here in northern Idaho will become infected with root rot
and beetle attacks fairly easily and you will soon have a stand of
gray snags before you know it.
Questions to Ask: Ask the local forest
professionals.
My recommendation would be to ask foresters with some of the larger
private forest industries. These are individuals who have to deal with
many different species across many different land types. They also
know the best most cost effective way to handle forest pathology. They
are normally more than willing to take a little time to talk to you.
They
are usually delighted somebody from the public would even ask their
opinion. Personally, I would not advise asking the local forest service.
These are folks who have developed into experts with appeasing irate
environmentalists and dealing with bureaucratic paperwork---not practical
forest solutions.
As for the money: A good rule of thumb for bare timberland
(treeless) value, that timber companies would be interested in, is
approximately $500 an acre. However, this is often bare land that is
very remote with little or no access. Value, obviously, increases the
closer to a paved or county road the property lies. Timberland assessors
look
at distance from mills, stocking (amount of the ground that is occupied
by timber), species that the ground is stocked with (i.e. red cedar
versus ponderosa pine, grand fir, or douglas fir), the age of the stand,
and the amount of net saw (the amount of wood that is not defective
or rotten.) Available timbered property that borders good drivable
roads is in high demand in many areas of northern Idaho. Prices are
being driven up almost unreasonably.
To find out how much your timber is worth, the easiest thing to do
is hire a timber cruising firm to perform a cruise on the land. That
service could run you a bare minimum of $400 for a small parcel
or 20 dollars a plot with fees for calculations and office work, (
Just a note: $20 a plot is low end, and $35 would be along the lines
of
a premium service) with 1 plot per acre being a fairly intensive cruise
for large parcels, but reasonable for medium to small parcels, or one
plot for every
3-5 acres if the land is large and has a fairly uniform timber type.[JWR
Adds: If the property is more than 60 acres and the stand of timber
is fairly uniform, then I recommend that you just ask for a "strip" cruise.
This type of cruise only evaluates zebra stripes from the parcel,
and the cruise report then extrapolates the total board footage. A
strip cruise will still give you a good approximation of the value
of the
timber
yet will cost a lot less money than a detailed cruise of the entire
parcel.]
Lastly, if you are interested in managing your own forest land I
would suggest a few more rules of thumb. #1) Timber always grows
best when the canopy of one tree is not touching the canopy of another
(i.e.
closed canopy.) So, give them some space and room to grow. #2) All
your Bambis, bear, and elk like open area's for feed with places
of cover
to run through and hide in--that is to say diversity, make sure they've
got a little of everything so that it's inviting to them. And diversity
does
not mean to always leave the biggest trees. Biggest isn't always best.
#3) Plan your open areas so that they are areas where you have good
vantage and cover for yourself, for home defense, as well as the opportune
hunting. May Christ Lift You Up - Eric in Northern Idaho
Hello Jim,
While I am relatively new to the path of self-reliance, I have enjoyed
related hobbies all my life, and I must commend you on a stunning
website. I have never found a place to have such diverse information
so organized and diligently explained. A day does not go by that
I do not visit to read your daily posts and often look back and re-read
the archives which I glean even more data from.
I am writing because
I found that Amazon.com has Sambucol for sale from third-party vendors
cheaper than those very same vendors have posted on their web sites.
The bottles of the large 7.8 fluid ounce of Sambucol Original from
Web
Vitamins priced at $13.59 on Amazon.com whilst on their website
they
are priced
at $15.99. After picking up three bottles I have provided the direct
link to the product below:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0001C0E9O/103-6709263-0263035?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance --
I hope this can be of use to those stocking up on Black Elderberry
essence. I know I'll be planting some elderberry bushes in my garden
come winter's thaw! Thanks again and keep up the great work!
- "Dancing Barefoot"
Mr. Rawles:
Okay, say TEOTWAWKI happens. You
have some silver coins and want to buy something. How
does the person you buy whatever from know what it is actually worth since it
is constantly changing. If you buy something for $2.00 do you hand the person
20
silver dimes? Or does the shop owner have to find out what silver is worth that
day and weigh what you hand him. Also I've read the government is going to confiscate
all gold including
collectors old gold. I live in Minnesota west of the Mississippi about 50 miles
on a lowly 10 acres surrounded by corn and soybeans. - Sherry in Minnesota
JWR Replies: WTSHTF, the spot price of silver will likely zoom up to $50+ per ounce before the formal markets disappear. If the Internet is up and/or newspapers are still published, the daily spot price of silver will be widely known. But even in a total collapse (grid down, and Internet down) everyone will at least know that silver is "valuable." But that is that is when will get interesting , because fixing a real world price in barter terms will be subject to negotiation. I believe that a general consensus of "X times face value" will soon develop. There will be no scales and very little calculation required. Read the "For and Ounce of Gold" (Barter Faire description) chapter in my novel "Patriots" for some examples. As previously stated, I strongly recommend that you get your beans, bullets and band-aids squared away before investing in any silver for barter. I predict that common caliber ammunition ("ballistic wampum" in Jeff Cooper's parlance) will be the preferred barter currency in the immediate post-collapse period. It will only be later, as order is gradually restored, that an interest in precious metals will revive.
Parenthetically, a curious phenomenon has been noted by travelers in the jungles of South America that have visited remote villages where gold is mined. There, they have negotiated buying raw gold nuggets and gold dust. Even though there was not a radio in the village, the local villagers could quote the current spot price of gold to within a few dollars per ounce. Markets are sophisticated, even in unsophisticated places. News gets around with surprising regularity, even just by word of mouth on jungle trails and rivers. As Bill Bonner of The Daily Reckoning so aptly puts it; "Mr. Market is never fooled." The classic economists refer to this as "The Invisible Hand" effect.
As for you point about gold confiscation: Gold has been confiscated once before in this country. (During the Depression of the 1930s, by the socialistic FDR administration.) That could happen again, in turbulent times. For this reason, I recommend that if you have the space available--in the bottom of your gun vault or perhaps behind a false wall --that you invest far more in silver than in gold. (As it is less likely to be subject to a confiscation decree. Being in smaller dollar increments per coin, silver coins are also more readily divisible for barter.) After you've bought your "junk" silver for barter if you decide buy any gold, I recommend that you do so without a paper trail.
"I believe that liberty is the only genuinely valuable thing that men have invented, at least in the field of government, in a thousand years. I believe that it is better to be free than to be not free, even when the former is dangerous and the latter safe. I believe that the finest qualities of man can flourish only in free air – that progress made under the shadow of the policeman's club is false progress, and of no permanent value. I believe that any man who takes the liberty of another into his keeping is bound to become a tyrant, and that any man who yields up his liberty, in however slight the measure, is bound to become a slave." - H. L. Mencken
Note from JWR: I'm down with the flu, so we are just running a few letters today.
Jim:
German-silver is a Brass - or in the family of brass
thereof anyway just like bronze - don't catch me out
with too much details as an expert will tell me how
far off I am on that statement! Regardless, "German silver" has
NO silver at all, it is to varying degrees of composition depending
on its intent etc, basically:
copper, from 50% to 61.6%; zinc, from 19% to 17.2%;
nickel, from 30% to 21.1%.
Developed by the way by the German scientist Geitner.
There is a related alloy called Tuetenag (see the
German connection???...which is very "gold" looking -
also the same idea really as a "replacement" for
silver using german-silver, and had some sort of
Chinese development taken on by the Europeans -
Tuetenag can be found with various other names.
Sometimes, pretty uncommonly, one sees old flintlock
pistol barrels made form it - more expensive then
brass.
Coin Silver is .900 fine [90% pures silver] you are right there, but
it isn't exactly true to say that it represents
silverware items: Flatware or Hollowware made from
melted coins - instead really it is simply a way of
stating the content of the silver as other then
sterling.
Indeed you should point out that there were various
melts by the Mint and that those Congressionally sanctioned melts
deleted a huge supply of American silver coinage
(which WAS in turn remade into coins, the last time
with the 1921 Morgans I think.) Lastly the Treasury
was obliged to surrender 100 million ounces (I think,
don't quote me) of silver to the development of the
atomic bomb during WWII - where that stuff came from and
where it went - who'd know!
There is a Canadian silver coin standard too - I think
it is .800 - you may have to help me on that
front but the Canadians you may want to add that to
your Silver commentary.
You might add something about Mexican and South
American too - 50 Pesos pieces are the BEST - many
silver and gold coins and medals from Latin America
list their content right on them ("Ley .900".) And as
well sometimes their weight in grams.
Anyway other pesos pieces sell for only respectable
gold value money (especially late dates into the
1950s) and are easily carried and widely recognized
even north of the Rio Grande - indeed following your good
logic about silver dimes, one ought to invest in these
pieces. Here's some information which does NOT
however represent all dates of mintages...
Description: Mexico - 5 [gold] Pesos - 1906 - Weight:
4.1666 grams - .1339 Troy Oz. - Fineness: .900
Diameter: 19mm. - Fine Gold Content: 3.7497 grams
.1205 Troy Oz.
Regards, - "Fritz Holland"
JWR Replies: Canada's
early silver coins were originally .925 fine,
and hence had slightly smaller coin sizes than their U.S. counterparts.
In 1920 the standard was reduced to .800 fine,
remaining there until mid-1967 when it was lowered to .500 fine. That
was abandoned just a year later in 1968, when they switched to pure
nickel coins.
Jim, one thing that you might have people keep in mind is the primary vehicle's spare tire as well as their TEOTWAWKI vehicle. It has not happened to me but look at all the people on the road who have flat tires thinking that they have a spare and then that spare is useless because it has no air. (Or it is missing.)Your spares should be checked for air at consistent intervals as well as checked physically checked at least twice a year. Another good idea that I have seen mentioned is keeping at least the gas tank half full. I have been doing this for years. - A.B.
A free online course on pandemics is offered by the University
of Albany. They have good intro courses with very helpful information.
They
are free
and
work at your own pace. This one is about Flu Pandemics. See: http://www.ualbanycphpi.org/learning/registration/detail_Pandemics.cfm
- Missouri Goat Lady
"A few honest men are better than numbers." - Oliver Cromwell
I am often asked in e-mails about gold and silver coins and their value, both in the present day and their eventual worth (post-TEOTWAWKI) for barter purposes.
The basic unit of measure for most of us that are in preparedness circles is the $1,000 face value bag of circulated U.S. silver coinage, minted in or before 1964. (Some folks mistakenly call these coins "Pre-'64", but properly they should be termed "Pre-'65.")
1964 was the last year that 90% silver coins were minted for circulation in the U.S. All of the dimes and quarters minted from 1965 onward are "clad" copper pieces--a sandwiched token that is mainly copper and merely flashed with silver. The government has the audacity to still refer to the new currency as "money" and "dollars", when they are nothing of the sort. Just look at the edge of one of the modern "coins" in your pocket. We've been robbed, ladies and gents!
The 90% silver coins were almost all gleaned out of circulation by about 1967. Finding one these in your pocket change these days is a rarity and cause for celebration. (Usually inadvertently in circulation because a child raided the wrong piggy bank and spent the coins in ignorance.) The Kennedy half dollar continued to be minted with just 40% silver content from 1965 to 1970. After that, Uncle Sugar dropped all pretense of issuing real coinage for circulation.
A $1,000 bag weighs about 55 pounds and is roughly the size of a bowling ball. The coins used for this purpose are typically well-worn and hence have little or no numismatic (collector's) value. Hence, they are often derisively called "junk silver" bags by coin dealers and collectors. Dimes, quarters, and half dollars all have the same ratio of silver content per dollar of face value. Silver dollars have a bit more silver content per dollar, so they sell at a premium. (See below.) Because of the weight of silver bags insured shipping is problematic. So it is advisable to buy locally, but definitely shop around for the best price! If you don't have any nearby coins shop and don't mind paying for the freight, contact the folks at Swiss America Trading. They are very reputable.
Here are some basic figures on U.S. silver coinage that you
should keep tucked away, both on your hard
disk and in hard copy form:
Silver dollar bags ($1,000 face value) contain approximately 765 ounces of silver
90% .50/.25/.10 bags ($1,000 face value) contain approximately 715 ounces of
silver.
(Thus, if the day's "spot" market price is $7.50 per ounce, then a
$1,000 face value bag of pre-1965 mint date quarters would be worth $5,362.50,
wholesale.
Or just think
of
it
as
5.36
times
the face
value of any single coin. Hence, a "junk" silver quarter
is
presently worth
about
$1.34,
wholesale.) Retail prices typically run around 7% over wholesale on small quantities,
and as little as 4% to 5% when you buy a full bag or
multiple
bags.
But
it
all
depends
on
where you do your buying, since some dealers provide for most of their profit
when
they
buy,
while
others
do
when
they sell.
40% half dollar bags ($1,000 face value) contain approximately 296 ounces of silver. (These were the 40% silver Kennedy half dollars minted between 1965 and 1970.)
Adjusted for inflation,
the price of silver is still near its historic low. It
was as high as $45 an ounce as recently as 1979. (That equates to 32
times face
value!!!) I consider silver at anywhere under $10 an ounce
a real bargain.
Conversion Formulas:
Grams to pennyweights, multiply grams by .643
Pennyweights to grams, multiply pennyweights by 1.555
Grams to troy ounces, multiply grams by 0.32
Troy ounces to grams, multiply troy ounces by 31.103
Pennyweights to troy ounces, divide pennyweights by 20
Troy ounces to pennyweights, multiply troy ounces by 20
Grains to grams, multiply grains by .0648
Grams to grains, multiply grams by 15.432
Pennyweights to grains, multiply pennyweights by 24
Avoirdupois ounces to troy ounces, multiply avoirdupois
ounces by .912
Troy ounces to avoirdupois ounces, multiply troy ounces
by 1.097
Avoirdupois ounces to grams, multiply avoirdupois ounces
by 28.35
Grams to Avoirdupois ounces, multiply grams by .035
Gold Purity Standards (by Karat):
24 K = 99.9% fine Pure Gold. Too weak for jewelry, but
ideal for industrial use
23.5K = 97.92% fine
23 K = 95.83% fine
22.5K = 93.75% fine
22 K = 92.67% fine Some coin gold, though not that of the
U.S., is 22K
21.6K = 90.00% fine The approximate purity of U.S. gold
coins
21.5K = 89.58% fine
21 K = 87.50% fine
20.5K = 85.42% fine
20 K = 83.33% fine
19.5K = 81.25% fine
19 K = 79.17% fine
18.5K = 77.08% fine
18 K = 75.00% fine The highest grade of gold normally used
in jewelry.
17.5K = 72.92% fine
17 K = 70.83% fine
16.5K = 68.75% fine
16 K = 66.67% fine 1/3 copper. This grade is commonly used
in dental work.
15.5K = 64.58% fine
15 K = 62.50% fine
14.5K = 60.42% fine
14 K = 58.33% fine
13.5K = 56.25% fine
13 K = 54.17% fine
12.5K = 52.08% fine
12 K = 50.00% fine Half gold, half copper. Used extensively
in low priced jewelry. (Will show brownish tinge in reaction
to Nitric Acid.)
11.5K = 47.92% fine The percentage of copper now exceeds
that of gold.
11 K = 45.83% fine
10.5K = 43.75% fine
10 K = 41.67% fine Used in some low-grade jewelry such
as class rings. Shows a marked reaction to Nitric Acid.
9.5 K = 39.58% fine
9 K = 37.50% fine Not much more than one-third gold.
Silver Purity Standards:
.9999 fine "Pure Silver"
.9584 fine "Britannia Silver"--Often used in manufacturing.
.9250 fine "Sterling Silver" Normally stamped "Sterling" or ".925"
.9000 fine "Coin Silver" Some antique items are marked "Dollar", "D",".900",
or "Coin
Silver" to indicate they
were made from melted coins.
"German Silver" is +/- 97% base metal and only +/- 3% silver, and thus
has no bullion value.
As stated in previous SurvivalBlog posts, I consider pre-1965 silver dimes the best coins to keep on hand for barter. They are a small enough increment of purchasing value that they will be practical for buying things such as cans of beans or a loaves of bread. I do not recommend gold coins for barter because they are too compact a form of wealth. Aside from resorting to a cold chisel, if you use them in barter you will likely end up on the losing side of the transaction.
The value that silver coins will bring you in barter will depend on the times. Immediately after a collapse, I predict that silver coins may not be worth much at all in barter. But as law and order is gradually restored, they will probably be worth more and more. The bottom line is the old legal maxim: "The value of a thing is what that thing will bring."
The old saying is that if you think education is expensive, try ignorance.
Being a proponent of a self-reliant lifestyle like most readers of
SurvivalBlog, I find it is sometimes costly to get the training we
need to make ourselves better informed. Being basically frugal (read:
cheap) I've searched out some ways to get the knowledge I wanted without
a large outlay of money.
My first stop in my hunt for knowledge was at the Human Resources office at
my place of employment. I discovered that there were several American Red Cross
(ARC) first aid and CPR classes offered. The really great thing was that my
job classification was one that allowed me to attend class on company time
and get trained. Not only free, but paid to learn lifesaving skills useful
in almost every survival situation. Now that is not bad deal at all.
I followed up the first aid/CPR class with a call to the local chapter of the
Red Cross. For no fee I could sign up for such classes as Introduction to Disaster
Services. This class is needed as a prerequisite for most ARC classes in the
disaster area. This class is designed to educate the student with an overview
of the roll of the ARC in such events as hurricanes to floods that displace
whole communities to house fires that displace a single family. Also free of
charge are classes like Mass Care, Shelter Operations Workshop, Damage Assessment
and Emergency Assistance to Families. Even if the student never volunteers
to work with the ARC he can become quite knowledgeable about the operations
of their community’s services during a disaster.
For the readers of SurvivalBlog there are other ARC classes that can be of
use and the cost is minimal. For $15 there is a class on Preventing Disease
Transmission. Other low cost classes (under $30) are: First Aid for Daycare
Worker/Infant/child First Aid-Review, Child Abuse Recognition & Prevention,
and good old Basic First Aid. The American Red Cross also has other classes
that teach among others, Lifesaving
and CPR for the Professional Rescuer but the cost on these classes can run
well over $125.
Next on the list of free training comes from the federal government. The Federal
Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) as a lot of courses that you can study at
home, or on line. Courses such as Emergency Preparedness, USA, which help the
student evaluate what types of emergencies they are most likely to experience.
It helps the student prepare for the disasters that they determine are most
likely to happen in their area. Warm clothes and heat sources for the possibility
of snowstorms or blizzards in the northern states, or plywood stutters for
the coast about to be hit with a hurricane are some of the ideas that are pointed
out for students. It is common sense ideas packed in a study manual.
Other courses available are on such subjects as Hazardous Materials, Animals
in Disaster, Retrofitting Flood-prone Structures, or Emergency Program Manager.
For a list of the home study guides you can write:
Federal Emergency Management Agency
EMI-Independent Study Program
16825 South Seton Avenue
Emmitsburg, Maryland 21727-8998
On the web at: http://www.fema.gov/tab_education.shtm
After the courses are completed FEMA will send the student a nice certificate
suitable for framing. In some cases the completed courses are also good for
college credit.
My place of employment also sent me to the local branch of the National Safety
Council, those Green Cross folks. I attended a seminar on Fire Safety and Confined
Space Entry. I also earned a forklift driver’s license through this organization.
Since my employer is a member of the council the classes were free of charge
and done on work time. The Safety Council offers many classes on industrial
safety; many of the classes are useful in any survival situation. Face it,
just adding a job skill like driving a forklift helps your personnel survivability
in the event of a lay off or plant closing.
My sons showed me another inexpensive way to get some very useful knowledge.
They had joined Boy Scouts of America and while they were working on merit
badges I flipped through the pamphlet and was surprised at the easy to read
booklet and amount of knowledge that it held. Boy Scout merit badge books,
there are around a 120, cover subjects from Astronomy to Woodworking. Many
of the subjects covered are of use to the person studying to be more self-reliant.
Backpacking, Camping, First Aid, Orienteering, Weather, and Wilderness Survival
are some of the titles that anyone needing information on can get some quick
easy to study knowledge. There are other titles that may also be of use, such
as Crime Prevention, Plumbing, Home Repairs, Emergency Preparedness, Rifle
and Shotgun Shooting.
I found that my parents were having some land disputes and we needed to talk
to a surveyor. I spent the $2 for the Surveying Merit Badge booklet and read
it over before we meet with the surveyors. I was able to understand enough
of the “trade lingo” to ask the right questions. I discovered that
since I understood their language that they were more willing to work with
my family than the other folks involved. I couldn’t run a couple of rods
of chain and find a corner stake, but I did manage to get the problem resolved
to our satisfaction. To develop outdoors skills, working with a local scout
troop might be a good idea also. By working with scouts learning to travel
in the wilderness, cook outdoors over a fire, build shelters, handy useful
knot tying, and working with map and compass can all become basic skills. Boy
Scouts also offer leadership training that teaches how to teach the scouts.
It is excellent learning, and the cost is usually under $20 for a weekend of
hands on training. For information on ordering Boy Scout books and information
look in the local phone book or write:
Boy Scouts of America
Supply Division
PO Box 65989
Charlotte, North Carolina 28265-0989
On the web at: www.scouting.org
A friend of mine told me about a class he took at the Criminal Justice Training
and Education Center (CJCC.) He worked for the County as a Deputy Dog Warden
and was able to take free classes at the CJCC. Since I worked for the county
also he wondered if I could take some classes with him. I checked with HR again
and yes indeed I could take some classes, for free and on company time, as
long as they related to my job. Since not many jobs call for survival skills
as part of their skills required, and my maintenance job did not resemble criminal
justice training it looked like a dead end. It did work out that I was able
to take some classes if I was willing to use vacation days to go. I signed
up for classes on Gang Identification and Youth, Drugs and the Community’s
Response. Knowing how to spot a gang sign or members and knowing which gang
they belong to is much like the old time frontier scouts that could tell which
tribe an indian belonged to and could deal better with them. On today’s
streets knowledge is a survival skill.
My quest for additional information led me to investigate the local unit of
our State Defense Force. I had read an article in the April, 1991 issue of
American Survival Guide about State Defense Forces and looked into the one
in my area. I joined the local Military Police Battalion and received some
excellent training. I was only required to train one 8 hour period a month,
generally one Sunday a month and in return I completed Basic Entry Level Training
(BELT) class and moved on to other training as well. Attending some full weekend
classes I completed the United States Army Reserve Military Police Course.
Basic military and police skills are very useful in many survival situations
and also add a great deal of self-confidence. Other classes that the Reserves
have that I found very useful were Cold Weather and Survival Course, Hazardous
Materials Technician Course, and Small Arms
Range/Safety Officer Training.In addition to the courses that are offered
the monthly drills give an opportunity to use the skills learned in the classroom
out in the field for practical application.
Land navigation, self-defense, and first aid/buddy aid are routinely re-enforced
making those survival skills a strong part of your abilities.
The opportunity for anyone to learn many useful survival skills in out there.
The cost for learning these lessons can be very minimal and the skills priceless.
The workplace, local Red Cross, local scout troop, or State Defense Force could
all add to the storehouse of knowledge, and the cost is very low. In the time
of need a cool, well-informed head may be the best survival tool to have.
"He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall
abide under the shadow of the Almighty.
I will say of the LORD, He is my refuge and my fortress: my God; in
him will I trust.
Surely he shall deliver thee from the snare of the fowler, and from
the noisome pestilence.
He shall cover thee with his feathers, and under his wings shalt thou
trust: his truth shall be thy shield and buckler." - Psalm 91:1-4, KJV
Note from JWR: I've had many request for sources for my novel. It has been out of print since December of Aught Four. Prices have crept up to around $40 per copy, due to their scarcity. However, I'm glad to report that there are a few dealers that still have a few copies of Patriots available. These include Survival Enterprises and Fred's M14 Stocks. As of this writing, the latter is currently offering a great three book package deal: Patriots + Enemies Foreign and Domestic + Boston's Gun Bible, all for $50. Please mention SurvivalBlog, regardless of where you buy your books.
Back to fun gadget related survival instead of the drudgery of feeding
livestock and stockpiling boring buckets of hard red winter wheat.
:-) Israeli gas masks must be very carefully selected, old canisters
especially before 1993 when the bad mask scandal broke are worthless
(Gulf War
vintage masks were worthless toys.) Even then gas masks are not a
one size fits all thing, they must be sized seal tested with banana
[oil]
scent
and irritant
smoke. Israel is one of the few places where a gas mask is a warranted
purchase (but we get them provided along with an atropine injector
from the
rear command) because we have standing armies on our borders with chemical
artillery in large quantities and our population density is high.
The employment
of gas weaponry in the USA is unlikely (except in an urban terrorist
attack) because it requires such large amounts to be effective on
a large scale.
A real protection from biological/chemical is to know how to seal a
room (basement with shielding in a nuke scenario) and how to filter
the air. The law here requires
shelter
room in all new construction (since the Gulf War) including filters,
vault door, and concrete construction. Every block has several meklat's
bomb/gas
shelters for
those without shelter rooms. Thyroid blocking doses of [Potassium]
Iodide and a radiation sensor would be a better purchase than a gas
mask and
filters, since nuclear
weapons would be more likely to be employed and effective in the case
of a
war.
Jim,
Your link to the Sambucol page recommends 4 tablespoons daily for flu
treatment. That equals one-half bottle (4oz./120ml bottle) each day
per adult.
Say you have 2 adults and 2 grown children, all being treated for symptoms.
That equals 2 bottles per day. Readers may want to get right on this.
Drugstore.com gives free shipping on $50+ orders. They are currently
out of stock but promise delivery of Sambucol with two week order
fulfillment.
Sir,
Your article today [Sunday, October 16th] is great. You might
want to mention that Sambucol is not a prescription drug--which
is one
reason
that it will
probably
be
gone quickly. Thanks, - Bruce
Jim:
Read your draft article on Bird Flu protection. Very good! Here is some additional
information you might find useful: http://www.p-73.com/ Beat
the Bird Flu Virus and Survive the Pandemic (free download) at:
http://downloads.truthpublishing.com/beatthebirdfluvirus.zip -
C.W.
[Some partially off topic links snipped.]
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I really enjoy your blog and novel "Patriots".
I am someone who is on a tight budget, yet as made some progress in
get myself prepared for tough
times.
I have found the best approach is small, but constant movement toward my goal.
Take food storage, for example. I began by purchasing a few extra canned goods
(>$20 worth) at the grocery store during my weekly shopping, and just kept
repeating. Over time, I have built-up a food reserve that could sustain my household
for several months. I make sure all of the items in my reserve have a shelf life
one-year or longer by rotating them into my everyday use, and replacing them
(a very convenient and painless process.) As for items that cannot be bought
piecemeal, I've simply done the best I am able to do with the money I have. I
may not be
able to afford a $1600 M1A, but
I am able to afford a $300 Winchester 1300 riot shotgun, and lets face it --
a
good
gun in hand beats a great gun on lay-away, any day.
I guess that's it. Have a good evening, and keep up the good work! Best Wishes,
- James K., People's Republik of Kalifornia
JWR Replies: Your progress is commendable! I wish
that more Americans bought canned food like you do. Just be sure to
mark the date purchased on each can with a fine point permanent
marker. (Such as a "Sharpie" pen.) A "deep larder" is something
that you can rely on for disasters (natural or man made) or even just
a lay-off at work.
For the benefit of any newbie readers: Always
place the most recently bought
cans at
the back of
your pantry shelves.
"A democracy cannot exist as a permanent form of government. It can only exist until the voters discover that they can vote themselves money from the Public Treasury. From that moment on, the majority always votes for the candidate promising the most benefits from the Public Treasury with the result that a democracy always collapses over loose fiscal policy, always followed by dictatorship." - Alexander Fraser Tyler, 18th century Scottish historian, The Decline and Fall of the Athenian Republic
Note from JWR: Two million page hits and 74,000 unique views! That is not bad for a blog that is just over two months old. I greatly appreciate your support, folks! Please continue to tell your neighbors and like-minded friends about SurvivalBlog. Your support of the blog via T-Shirt/gear sales and classified ad placements are also greatly appreciated. Also, please mention SurvivalBlog whenever you contact any of our advertisers.
In a TEOTWAWKI situation, being able to trap game is a very vital skill. The fresh meat would be a welcome addition to your stored food. But you may not want to alert others to your location by shooting. Trapping is a labor-efficient method of filling this vital need.
It is useful to understand fur trappers so that you don't end up competing
with them. A fur trapper's
goal is to get as much fur as quickly as he or she can.
The goal to hit the hot spots hard and fast and beat the competition. Some
guys run 2-to-3 dozen traps in the early morning before work. Most
fur trappers are hobby trappers who take one or two weeks off
work and run hard
for
that
time. They
could be running 100 traps or maybe 300 muskrat traps. Normally they
operate out of a truck and may cover 100 or more miles a day.
A fur trapper tries to run in a circle around his base. He may run
east side for a 100 mile loop for a week, then the next week north,
the following week west, and the fourth week South. Or he may run a
100 mile loop of only the hottest spots in mind. There are several
ways trap lines are run and there is no hard and fast rules. People
are different and have different ways of doing things. But one thing
to
keep in mind a fur trapper hates to back track. Dead end roads that
ends miles from a turn might be skipped. Most trappers are within 50
to 100 yards off the road. Remember "hard and fast" means the trapper
doesn't have time to be walking all day. Presently, fur prices are
down and
gas prices are up. This equals less miles on the commercial trap lines
and many more opportunities for the food trapper.
In contrast to a fur trapper, a survival or food trapper wants
to catch
animals
based on palatability rather than fur value. This will solve a lot of problems
because
the
better
tasting
animals are easier to trap than fox or coyotes. A real advantage is that a food
trapper can set up his area for long term use. Meaning harvesting enough to eat
but not
wipe out the animals so that each year there are animals to harvest for food.
A easy example with beaver trapping is taking two per hunt. This can turn into
a
yearly guarantee of food and fur.
As survival trapper you want to harvest the animals quietly in out of the way
places. With rising living expenses this a truly practical skill, although regulations
vary widely from state to state. Buy a trapping license and get out there. Every
pound
of meat you bring home is more dollars in your pocket. Experience is the best
teacher. I have taught thousands and thousands of students personally and through
my
videos. Most
make catches in their first night. You name the top survival instructors and
I can guarantee I have taught some of his students how to trap and snare with
professional grade self locking snares.
Proviso: Don't go out and try illegal trapping methods before TEOTWAWKI
or
you
will
risk
heavy
fines
and
jail
time. In a real emergency what can a dozen cam lock snares do for you?
Pre-Y2K,
I
sold one dozen cam locks and a survival snaring video to a fellow in Mexico.
In June
of
2000 he contacted me and said, "Thank you for your snares and snaring video." I
asked why he made the expense of calling me long distance with a thank you.
He
said, "Well,
you
have
to
understand that for the last three years I was at my deer camp and never shot
a deer. This
year getting ready for Y2K I took your snares and gave them a try in less then
a week
I took 11 deer." You name anything else that can catch you an estimated
1,650 pounds of venison without firing a shot for under $50 (for the dozen
the cam locks and DVD.) No other product can do this. Silent, deadly, working
"24/7". I call that a deal. 1,650 pounds of venison for under $50 works
out to
a
little more then .03 cent a pound live weight. Now please read this carefully:
Snaring deer is illegal everywhere in The United States. If
you get caught you
will be
subjected to heavy fines and maybe jail time. Do not do this
unless it
is a true emergency. Don't go out and try it beforehand or you will
risk heavy fines and jail
time. (But once TEOTWAWKI happens there are no laws its
the collapse of
society and you will need to take care of your family.)
Squirrels, rabbits, ducks, pheasants, grouse and quail, can all be easily taken
with a #110 conibear trap. Geese and turkeys can be taken with a #220 conibear
trap. The conibear traps are awesome. They are well built and last for years.
I used one last fall to trap a mink and muskrats that I originally bought when
I
was
a
teenager,
back in 1975. Yes, 30 years ago. Now please read this carefully: Trapping
game
birds is illegal everywhere in The United States. For Rabbits and squirrels
check
your
state game laws.
Another advantage to trapping/snaring is there are no gun shot wounds contaminating
the meat. That will equal more meat in the pot. Learn to trap/snare now (if
legal)
in your state. Practice on raccoon, beaver, groundhogs, etc. The experience
you learn now may will save your life when TEOWAWKI happens. Trapping and snaring
teaches more then how to obtain food it also teaches you skills that may save
your life. In the Viet Nam war one trapper wrote that because of his trapping
skills he was able to spot booby traps set for his patrol. His trapping skills
saved his life and the men around him. Another valuable plus in a uncertain world.
In closing, you should understand that a properly trained survivalist equipped
with
real
snares
and
traps
will out-produce any hunter alive. -
"Buckshot"
JWR's Comment: I have been a doing business with
"Buckshot" Bruce for many years. His videos contain a wealth of knowledge
that would take decades to re-create by trial and error. He also sells
traps, snares, and scents at very reasonable prices. When you are
allocating your retreat provisioning budget, you should seriously consider
trapping.
Trapping is far
more efficient
and much more covert
than
hunting. There are literally tons of protein on fours legs
out there that can be harvested for your family and for charity, but
only if
you have
the
right tools
and knowledge. For more information, see Buckshot's site: http://www.buckshotscamp.com/Ent-BS-Camp.htm
As far as disinfecting water, rather than bleach I'd recommend
calcium hypochlorite (available as swimming pool chlorine or shock.)
It's somewhat
cheaper, easier to use, doesn't taste quite as bad (it's what the military
uses in large disinfection systems), and if you get a pool water test
kit (the basic one) you can measure the residual chlorine. Just mix
some calcium hypochlorite with water in a plastic squeeze bottle and
add to the water you want to disinfect: Take a small sample out with
the test kit and get something between 5 and 10 ppm (7-8
ppm is ideal.) A one-pound bag of calcium hypochlorite was around
$5 at my local grocery
store, and represents enough water to treat a good-sized swimming pool
full of water (BTW, don't drink swimming pool water unless it's been
recently replaced, and then only if you can filter it.)
For smaller quantities of water (backpacking) I like Polar Pure, and then my
compressed carbon block (non-ceramic) filter. Ceramic filters can crack if they
freeze, and are somewhat delicate. - Dr. November
"Survival depends a great deal on a person's ability to withstand stress in emergency situations. Your brain is without doubt your best survival tool. It is your most valuable asset in a survival situation. It isn't always the physically strong who are the most effective or better at handling fear in emergency situations. Survival more often depends on the individual's reactions to stress than upon the danger, terrain, or nature of the emergency. To adapt is to live." - Chris Conway, in The Attitude of Survival
Note from JWR: I would greatly appreciate any further comments/corrections to the following article, particularly from our readers who are doctors. Special thanks to "Dr. November" who has already made some comments and additions. I have now made it available for widespread dissemination as a "free use" piece that can be e-mailed and posted to various forums. (See the new button in my blog site top bar.)
The emerging threat of the Asian Avian Flu Virus (AAV H5N1) brings into sharp focus the vulnerability of modern, highly mobile and technological societies to viral or bacterial infectious diseases. The last major Asian flu outbreak, (H2N2 in 1957, which killed 69,800 people in the United States) took five months to reach the United States. With the advent of global jet travel, it is now likely that highly virulent disease strains will be transmitted to population centers around the world in a matter of just a few days.
In this article, I will describe how you can protect yourself and your family from the next great pandemic. Although the likelihood of AAV H5N1 mutating into a strain that can easily be transmitted between humans is relatively low, the potential impact if this were to occur would be devastating. The current strain of the virus has a 58% lethality rate for humans. But even if AAV H5N1 turns out to be a "non-event", in the next few decades there is a very high likelihood that some other disease will emerge and suddenly make a pandemic breakout. The odds are against us, because influenzas have tendency toward antigenic shift. Because influenzas are viral and are spread by casual person to person contact, the majority of the world's population will be exposed in just a few weeks or months. Even today, more than 30,000 Americans die each year from flu complications--mostly the elderly and those with compromised immune systems.
Here are the key things that you need to do to protect yourself and your family, and to help restore order during a pandemic:
A.) Raise Your Immune Resistance
B.) Be Ready to Fight the Illness
C.) Avoid Exposure.
D.) Stockpile Key Logistics.
E.) Be Prepared to Dispense Charity From a Safe Distance
I will briefly discuss each of these requirements in this article. I will also be posting more detailed follow-up articles on each topic in my daily blog (web journal) at http://www.SurvivalBlog.com
Raise Your Immune Resistance
There are two philosophies to fighting off influenza viruses. The first and mostly prevalent is to raise the body's immune response. The other is to maintain normal immune response to prevent a collapse caused by over-response--a so called "cytokine storm". While opinion is divided on this issue, I tend toward a strong immune response--particularly if combating a highly virulent illness.
To raise your immune resistance to disease it is important that you stop smoking. If you are a smoker you have already realized that you are much more susceptible to respiratory infections. Smokers are at high risk to develop complications. Get plenty of exercise, eat healthy foods, drink only in moderation, get plenty of sleep, and use top quality vitamin supplements. If you are overweight, you need to alter your diet get down to within five pounds of normal body weight. You need to change your diet for two important reasons: First, unhealthy foods weaken your immune system. Cut out refined sugar. Avoid candy, snack foods, soft drinks, and any processed foods with preservatives, artificial sweeteners, or MSG. Avoid store-bought meat, which is often tainted by the hormones and antibiotics used in commercial livestock feeds. Wild game or home-raised livestock is much healthier! Lastly, pray. Why? Anxiety is a form of stress that weakens the immune system, and prayer is a proven way to relieve anxiety and stress. And more importantly, as a Christian I believe that it is crucial to pray for God's guidance, providence, and protection.
Be Ready to Fight the Illness
There are some symptoms that distinguish between colds and flus: Flus typically cause fever, chills, achy feeling (malaise), headaches, and extreme fatigue. Cold symptoms are usually restricted to the upper respiratory tract while flu symptoms tend to involve the entire body.
Influenzas tend to kill most of their victims in two ways: dehydration and lung congestion. Even the Avian flu, which is respiratory usually starts with stomach flu symptoms. Stomach flus usually induce diarrhea which rapidly dehydrates the victim. To fight this, you need to stock up on both anti-diarrhea medicines (such as Imodium AD--an anti-spasmodic) and electrolyte solutions such as Pedialyte. (The latter is available in bulk though large chain "warehouse" stores.) The various sports type drinks (such as Gatorade) can be used as oral rehydration solutions (ORSs) too. However, I prefer to dilute them about 50% with water, they have a lot of glucose in them which will exacerbate diarrhea symptoms.
If commercial ORSs are not available, I
have read that
you can make an emergency solution as follows:
• 1/2 teaspoon of salt
• 2 tablespoons honey, sugar, or rice powder
• 1/4 teaspoon potassium chloride (table salt substitute)
• 1/2 teaspoon trisodium citrate (can be replaced by baking soda)
• 1 quart of clean water
Imodium is a trade name for Loperamide. It can be purchased generically for relatively little cost, at such places as warehouse stores. The generic (house brands) are just fine. Stock up on Acetominophen (Tylenol) and Ibuprofen (Motrin) as well - for treating fevers. These two antipyretics can be taken together or on an alternating 4 hour schedule (take each every 4 hours but split them, for example at 8 AM take acetaminophen, at 10 AM take ibuprofen, etc. This makes it easier to monitor the patient and get them to drink fluids, if they're up every 2 hours they will have to drink some fluids.) Either have a traditional glass thermometer for each person, or a digital thermometer with lots of disposable sleeves. The thermometers are a couple of bucks at the stores mentioned above. The sleeves are a buck or so per hundred. Don't cross-contaminate your patients.
Because influenzas are viral rather than bacterial, most antibiotic drugs (antibacterials) are useless in combating them. If you suspect that you are coming down with influenza get bed rest! Too many people ignore their symptoms because "that project at work just has to get done." Not only do they risk their own health, but they infect their co-workers! Liquids help ease congestion and loosen phlegm and are of course crucial to rehydration. Just a fever alone can double your body's dehydration rate.
Respiratory flus such as the Asian Avian Flu kill with congestion. Buy a steam-type vaporizer. Stock up on expectorants containing guaifenesin as the main ingredient.
You will need to watch carefully for any symptoms of pneumonia develop. These include: difficulty or painful breathing, a grunting sound when breathing (quite distinct from the wheezing of bronchitis or the "barking" of croup), extremely rapid breathing, flaring nostrils with each breath, or coughing up rust-colored phlegm. Pneumonia can be a deadly complication of the flu and is the main cause of flu-related death. It is important to note that pneumonia is typically a co-infection that can be either viral or bacterial. In case of a bacterial pneumonia, antibiotics are crucial for saving lives. If it is viral, there is not much that can be done. While antibiotics can clear infection they cannot remove secretions. The patient must cough them all the way back up the respiratory tract. Do not use cough suppressants--anything with active ingredients like dextromethorphan or diphenhydramine. A "productive" (wet) cough that produces phlegm is a good thing! This is where you may need expectorants. One that works well is Robitussin (the original type of Robitussin without any capital letters after the name.) These are also available as generics, and quite cheap, so stock up. You should also read up on postural drainage and percussion techniques for chest secretion clearance--for instances when your patient cannot or will not cough effectively.
Avoid Exposure
Aside from being actually coughed or sneezed upon by an infected person, the most common way to catch the flu is by touching something which has been coughed on or sneezed upon by an infected person. For instance, the person that used the shopping cart before you had the flu. They covered their mouth with their hand when they coughed then used that very hand to push the cart around the store. Now your hands are touching the same place. Without thinking while shopping, you rub your eye or nose and you have introduce the virus to your most vulnerable point of infection. When you are out in public do NOT touch your eyes or nose. Wash your hands frequently to remove any germs you have picked up. Teach your children this as well.
Even though the chances of a full scale "nation busting" pandemic are small, the possibility definitely exists. The recent public statements by President Bush about considering the use of the military to enforce an Asian Avian flu pandemic quarantine are indicative that government officials are taking the threat seriously. A full scale pandemic that starts taking lives on a grand scale may then reasonably cause you to take some extreme measures to protect the lives of your family members. You can cut your chances of infection by more than half if you prepare to live in isolation (a strict "self quarantine") for an extended period of time. You need to be prepared to avoid all contact with other people during the worst of the pandemic. The self quarantine period might last as much as three years, as successive waves of influenza sweep through the country. Think this through, folks. What would you need to do to successfully quarantine your family? Grab a clipboard and start making some prioritized lists.
History has shown that infectious diseases do their worst in urbanized regions So if you can afford to, make plans to move to a lightly populated region, soon. Where? Read my blog ( http://www.SurvivalBlog.com) for some detailed recommendations, but in general, I recommend moving west of the Mississippi (because of the west's much lighter population density) to a rural, agricultural region. When looking for a retreat locale, look outside of city limits and away from major highways that will serve as "lines of drift" for urban refugees. You are looking for a property that could serve as a self-sufficient farm--something over five acres, and preferably closer to 40 acres. In the event of a "worst case" pandemic situation, there is the possibility that power grid could go down. Even if your farm has well water, you may be out of luck. A home with gravity fed spring water is ideal, but uncommon. So you will either need to be able to pump well water by hand--only practical with shallow wells--or be prepared to treat water that you'll draw from open sources: rivers, creeks, lakes, or ponds.
Plan to live at your retreat year-round. In the event of a full scale pandemic, the police and military will probably be ordered to enforce draconian quarantines of cities, counties, or perhaps entire states or regions. Having a well-stocked retreat is useless if you can't get to it. Live there, and become accustomed to getting by self-sufficiently. Plant a big vegetable garden, using non-hybrid seeds. Raise small livestock that can forage on your own pasture. Get your digestive system accustomed to consumption of your bulk storage foods. Home school your kids. Develop a "hunker down" lifestyle with minimal trips to town. Each trip to town will constitute another opportunity for infection.
To make self-quarantine effective, it is essential that you are prepared to live in isolation for many months, and possibly years, to avoid contact and subsequent risk of infection. This can be practical for anyone that is retired or self-employed in an occupation that does not require regular face to face contact with clients or customers. (For example home-based mail order, self-publishing, recruiting, medical/legal transcription, or telecommuting.) But for anyone else it may mean having to quit your job and live off of your savings. So it is essential that you get out of debt and start building your savings, ASAP. If you can possibly change jobs to something that will allow isolation or semi-isolation, do so as soon as possible. For most of us in the middle class, this may mean "doubling up" with another family to share resources.
To protect yourself (at least marginally) from infected spittle, wear wrap-around goggles and buy or fabricate surgical style masks, in quantity. Note that even an N100 gas mask filter will not stop an airborne virus, since the viruses are too small. But at least a cloth mask will give you some protection from virus-laden spittle. Once the pandemic breaks out in your region, you won't look out of place wearing these, even on a trip to the post office. Stock up on disposable gloves. Note that some individuals are allergic to latex. So do some extended wear tests before you buy gloves in quantity. Wear gloves whenever away from your retreat, and wash your hands frequently, regardless. Keep your hands away from your nose and eyes at all times. Stock up on soap and bottles of disinfecting hand sanitizer.
Stockpile Key Logistics
To make long term self quarantine effective you will need to buy a large quantity of long term storage food from a trustworthy vendor. Storage food is bulky and expensive to ship, so plan to buy locally or rent a truck and travel to a nearby state to pick up your storage food. In the eastern U.S., I recommend Ready Made Resources, of Tennessee. (See: http://www.ReadyMadeResources.com) In the western U.S., I recommend Walton Feed of Idaho. (See: http://www.WaltonFeed.com) It is also important to lay in extra food to dispense in charity--both to your neighbors and to any relatives that might end up on your doorstep at the 11th hour.
Stockpile fuel--firewood, home heating oil, or propane, plus fuel for your backup generator, vehicles and/or tractor. For liquid fuels, buy the largest tanks that you can afford to buy and fill, and that are allowable under your local fire code. If you heat with wood or coal, determine how many cords or pounds of coal you buy each winter and then triple that amount.
Build a sturdy gate to your driveway and get in the habit of keeping it closed and locked. It may sound far-fetched, but in the event or a "worst case" you may have to repel looters by force of arms. Buy plenty of ammo, zero your guns, and practice regularly. Hurricane Katrina showed how fragile our society is and how quickly law and order can break down in an emergency. Plan accordingly.
With the consent of your doctor and his prescription, you should stock up at least moderately on antibiotics such as penicillin and Ciprofloxacin ("cipro") to fight co-infections. But they should only be used if it is abundantly clear that a co-infection has set in. (Again, watch for pneumonia symptoms.)
There are a few drugs that have been clinically proven to be useful in lessening the symptoms of viral influenzas, and shortening the duration of illness. These include Relenza (Zanamivir), Tamiflu (Oseltamivir phosphate), and Sambucol. These drugs are used immediately after the onset of flu symptoms. Of the three, Sambucol--a tincture of black elderberry-- is probably the best. I predict shortages of these drugs in coming months, so stock up while they are still readily available!
Be Prepared to Dispense Charity From a Safe Distance
I already mentioned that it is important to lay in extra food to dispense in charity. I cannot emphasize this enough. Helping your neighbors is Biblically sound and builds trustworthy friendships that you can count on. To avoid risk of infection, you need to be prepared to dispense charity from a safe distance--without physical contact. Think: planning, teamwork, and ballistic backup. While your family's food storage can be in bulk containers (typically 5 to 7 gallon food grade plastic pails), your charity storage food should mostly be in smaller containers. Or, at least buy some extra smaller containers that you can fill and distribute to refugees. Also be sure to lay in extra gardening seed to dispense as charity. Non-hybrid ("heirloom") varieties that breed true are available from several vendors including The Ark Institute. (See: http://www.ArkInstitute.com.) By dispensing charity you will be helping to restore order and re-establish key infrastructures. The bottom line is that you'll be part of the solution rather than part of the problem.
In closing, I highly recommend that you read Dr. Grattan Woodson's monograph "Preparing for the Coming Influenza Pandemic", available for free download at my blog site. Also see: http://www.fluwikie.com.
Postscript from SurvivalBlog.com Reader and Contributor "Dr. November":
I'm not a big believer in Tamiflu (Oseltamivir) or the other
neuraminidase inhibitors. It's only demonstrated effect is to make
the course of the flu slightly less long (on the order of 1-2 days
less), but it has a critical requirement: IT MUST BE TAKEN within the
first day or two of feeling ill. Most people (myself included) will
just feel a little 'off' those first couple of days, or try to work
through it. Tamiflu in this situation is pretty useless. Also, if someone
is going to use it, they MUST have it on hand before they get sick:
Getting the first symptoms, then deciding to call your physician and
getting an appointment to get the prescription the week after next
isn't going to help. Finally, it's pretty expensive (a standard 5 day
adult dose is around $100 plus the physicians appointment.) It's also
going to be in short supply as people start trying to get it (similar
to Cipro following the anthrax attacks and scares.) BTW, Mom's old
standby for respiratory infections (chicken soup) is as effective as
oseltamivir. I doubt that it would be a good choice for an avian flu
pandemic, though.
I was favorably impressed with a study done in Israel about the efficacy
of Sambucol. At least, it's not expensive and won't hurt anything.
So, what should people do? In addition to the suggestions you've offered,
I have a few more: If the pandemic strikes, and you can't avoid going
out among people, wear disposable gloves (they don't have to be surgical
or sterile.)
You don't know who last touched that ... whatever (door knob, elevator
button, etc.) Carry and use several pair, and learn how to take them
off without touching the outsides (ask a medically trained individual
to show you.) Keep your hands away from your mouth, nose and eyes!
If your hands become contaminated, don't transfer the virus to mucous
membranes.
Wash your hands often (and also, BEFORE and AFTER using public restrooms,
then don't touch the door knob on the way out - use an extra paper
towel.) Hand sanitizer gels are OK but plain soap and water is fine
too. If nothing else is available, a 'dry wash' (vigorously rubbing
your hands as though you were soaping them up) is surprisingly effective
in removing the outer dead layer of skin cells that harbor virus particles
or bacteria. It won't get rid of every single one (nothing will) but
it's a matter of odds - the fewer, the better.
Teach everyone (especially the dear little germ transport mechanisms
we call children) to cough into their elbow or armpit - NOT to cover
their face with their hands (and then what?) or use a tissue (and then
what?) And to wash their hands afterwards.
I can commend a medical blog that has an excellent article (and
link to a free New England Journal of Medicine article) on avian flu:
http://medpundit.blogspot.com/2005/10/flu-bug-variations-everyone-seems-to.html and
http://content.nejm.org/cgi/content/full/353/13/1363 -
Dr. November
Proviso from James Wesley, Rawles: I'm not a doctor, and I don't give medical advice. Mention of any medical device, treatment, drug, or food supplement is for educational purposes only. Consult your doctor before undertaking any treatment or the use of any drug, food supplement, or medical device. SurvivalBlog.com is not responsible for the use or misuse of any product mentioned.
Mr. Rawles:
You know when to start worrying, when a Government scientist
says "There
is no need to panic." The UK government is stockpiling 14.6 million
doses of 'Tamiflu' (see the BBC article here: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/4344220.stm.
The question I have, after reading past posts on your site regarding
AAV H5N1 flu, is whether there is any consensus on the appropriate medication/prevention
supplement to get hold of, before everybody sells out? Especially,
if anyone has specific sources in UK.
It may be that the advice from the Government will be to stay at home
for an indeterminate length of time for the epidemic to 'blow over',
do you have any info as to how long we should plan for, I've read 6
months? I plan to re think our family plans and start further building
up of stores. I know it's probably in Patriots but
for general info could you remind your readers on long term water storage
and the ?one
drop of bleach to one pint/litre of water? Thanks, - Bob
JWR Replies: The most effective treatment will probably be Sambucol. (See the preceding article.) With your labyrinthine National Heath Service bureaucracy, I don't know how you would obtain any in the UK. Perhaps through a private doctor. Or perhaps it is available without prescription in England.
Plan on "self quarantine" for a minimum of six months, and possibly as much as three years.
As for disinfecting water, the following advice come from the folks at Captain Tropic's: "Normal household bleach can be used to kill germs in water, but will not kill tuberculosis germs. Regular household bleach is a solution of 5.25% Sodium Hypochlorite and 94.75% inert ingredients. The bleach I want you to use should be standard household bleach with no extra whiteners, brighteners, or scents of any kind like lemon. Many manufactures bleach labels state "not fit for human consumption", which is true (Does it need to be said? Ok, don't drink straight bleach!) Now if the only active ingredient in your bleach is Sodium Hypochlorite, it is suitable for water sterilization. Here's how you do it. Add 1/2 teaspoon to 5 gallons of water if it is clear (or 8 drops of chlorine bleach to each gallon of clear water) or 1 teaspoon to 5 gallons of water if the water is cloudy. Allow your water to sit at least 30 minutes. If water does not have a slight chlorine odor, repeat the dosage and let stand for 15 minutes."
Hi Jim,
After reading Grampa R.'s post about making a ghillie suit I thought
he, as well as other readers might be interested in knowing there is
a company that makes custom ghillie suits. They are made with materials
that reduces the thermal signature to almost nil. The burlap is dyed
with a fire retardant and water repellent. Multiple colors of the burlap
are layered to make it match your area of operation. The burlap is
dyed in such a manner that it will appear to change color to blend
with naturally surrounding foliage and/or regional terrain. This is
the company that designed the roll-up ghillie and invented the thumb
loops to keep sleeves in place. All suits come with thumb loops unless
otherwise specified. These suits work so well they are regulated by
the Department of State! They have custom made over 10,000 suits. They
come with a 30 unconditional guarantee and a 2 year warranty against
defects in workmanship. If one wants the best ghillie money can buy
you won't go wrong. They also make ghillie covers for rifles. Custom
Concealment, Inc.See: http://www.ghillie.com/index.htm.
Regards, - F1
"Government is not reason; it's not eloquence; it is force. Like fire, it's a dangerous servant and a fearful master." - George Washington
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Copyright 2006. All Rights Reserved by James Wesley, Rawles - www.SurvivalBlog.com™
The opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect those of my employer.