About batteries: Since 1996 doing my [seasonal] RV living,
I've been using 16 golf cart batteries: 12 on the back bumper and 4
on the front bumper. They have been adequate for my RV requirements.
BTW, beyond the normal stuff, my RV utilizes two networked servers,
two workstations, two satellite uplinks as well as three satellite
downlinks and my ham radios, all on a 24/7 basis. The inverter is a
Trace SW-4024. Then in 1998, I bought the ranch and it, now, uses 16
of the venerable L-16 batteries, purchased from a dealer who wished
to rotate his stock. The ranch also utilizes a matching Trace SW-4024.
(For commonality of parts.) BTW, I also have a pair of Trace 12 VDC /
2400 watt inverters in case the big Traces fail. (Yep, I'm stupid on occasion.
I didn't ground the one at the ranch well enough and lightning took it out.
Now it's [replacement is] grounded to the well and four widely separated ground
rods.) I went with the backup inverters as 12 Volt DC because they can be more
readily utilized elsewhere if needed. Early in 2004, I installed a Trace SW-4024
at my [commercial] radio station with 24 L-16s and both stations operate continuously
with the system interfaced with the city power feed. If the city power fails,
the Trace picks up the load so fast neither the [audio] CD players nor the
computers glitch. On the air, you can't tell that the switch occurred. Unfortunately
the rest of the building, which isn't on the Trace, goes dark. This was very
disconcerting to one disc jockey in particular. Ha!
As to longevity, we pull a continuous 24 Amps and so far, during a power failure,
the system has gone almost 10 hours without running down. (Thank Goodness!)
As to those BIG telephone [Central Office stationary] batteries, they are HUGE
and only one cell. It takes three of them [wired in series] to equal the voltage
of one L-16. One battery must weigh 200 pounds. They are clear on the sides.
I missed out on 42 of them when I ran across a telephone serviceman who had
just finished dumping all of the liquid out of them and loading them on his
truck for disposal. The EPA poses
no problem as long as you affirm you are going to put them into service. EPA
only has restrictions when you dispose of the battery. So far no battery failures
and things are humming.
Best regards to you and the Memsahib, Oh ..... HAPPY NEW YEAR! - The Army Aviator
I wouldn’t recommend a Dobie as a first dog for a first
time dog owner any more than I would recommend a full auto M16 for
a first time gun owner. Too much of a learning curve. They were originally
bred to accompany police, night watchmen and tax collectors on their
rounds, and they are well suited to this and other similar duties. Anyone
serious about obtaining a Doberman, I recommend doing the homework
to find a breeder that uses German stock, or breeding pairs that
are from German stock. The intelligence, trainability and temperament
are beyond reproach, since all German breeding stock must pass Schutzhund
to be allowed to breed.
Speaking of Schutzhund, this is a terrific sport. No, it is not “attack
dog” training to make the dog mean. All dogs have aggressive and
protective instincts. However, we train our dogs not to be aggressive
with family and friends. In a real life confrontation, an untrained dog
can become either confused or berserk with equally tragic results either way.
Maybe that person coming up the walk is a bad guy, here to murder you and your
family – or maybe just a poor lost soul looking for directions. Makes
a difference in how you want the dog to respond, doesn’t it? But the
dog can’t possibly know the difference. Schutzhund teaches a dog how
to turn its aggressive behavior on and off, to control it and direct it at
your command. Any intelligent breed will enjoy working with you, learning
something, getting the mental and physical stimulation of this sport. You
and your dog will learn valuable skills and gain confidence that will be of
great benefit if and when the balloon goes up. In any kind of a large
dog, I recommend considering this seriously. The dog needs to understand
not to shred the mail man, but when you call it into action, it needs to be
able to exert exactly how much and just what kind of protective behavior you
instruct. - Rusty
Mr. Rawles
In your [list of] resources for solar and off grid contacts you must not have
been
aware
of Kenny G. at www.armadillosolar.net,
who is most likely the most respected install team leader in the U.S. and one
of
the most sought after consultants in the industry. In many cases he has come
in
to fix systems installed by less than honest installers, particularly in the
Texas. In the local area of Austin, Texas I know of none of
his customers who are less than enthusiastic about his products and advice. Austin
hosts the largest aggregation
of residential off grid installations in Texas, and we talk about
it! BTW - the wife and I loved your novel TEOTWAWKI [one of the draft editions
of "Patriots"]
that
we got from
you
many years ago, before it was published via that publishing company. - Wotan
"There are 1011 stars in the galaxy. That used to be a huge number. But it's only a hundred billion. It's less than the national deficit! We used to call them astronomical numbers. Now we should call them economical numbers." - Dr. Richard Feynman
The majority of SurvivalBlog readers that I talk with tell me that they live in cities or suburbs, but they would like to live full time at a retreat in a rural area. Their complaint is almost always the same: "...but I'm not self-employed. I can't afford to live in the country because I can't find work there, and the nature of my work doesn't allow telecommuting." They feel stuck.
Over the years I've seen lots of people "pull the plug" and move to the boonies with the hope that they'll find local work once they get there. That usually doesn't work. Folks find that the most rural jobs typically pay little more than minimum wage and they are often informally reserved for folks that were born and raised in the area. (Newcomers from the big city certainly don't have hiring priority!)
My suggestion is to start a second income stream, with a home based business. Once you have that business started, then start another one. There are numerous advantages to this approach, namely:
You can get out of debt
You can generally build the businesses up gradually, so that you don't need to quit your current occupation immediately
By working at home you will have the time to home school your children and they will learn about how to operate a business.
You can live at your retreat full time. This will contribute to your self-sufficiency, since you will be there to tend to your garden, fruit/nut trees, and livestock.
If one of your home-based businesses fails, then you can fall back on the other.
Ideally, for someone that is preparedness-minded, a home-based business should be something that is virtually recession proof, or possibly even depression proof. Ask yourself: What are you good at? What knowledge or skills do you have that you can utilize. Next, consider which businesses will flourish during bad times. Some good examples might include:
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctioning of preparedness-related products.
Locksmithing
GunsmithingMedical Transcription
Accounting
Repair/refurbishment businesses
Freelance writing
Blogging (with paid advertising) If you have knowledge about a niche industry and there is currently no blog on the subject, then start your own!Mail order/Internet sales of entertainment items. (When times get bad, people still set aside a sizable percentage of their income for "escape" from their troubles.For example, video rental shops have done remarkably well during recessions.)
Burglar Alarm Installation
Other home-based businesses that seem to do well only in good economic times include:
Recruiting/Temporary Placement
Fine arts, crafts, and jewelry. Creating and marketing your own designs--not "assembly" for some scammer. (See below.)
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctions of luxury items, collectibles, or other "discretionary spending" items
Personalized stationary and greeting cards (Freelance artwork)
Calligraphy
Web Design
Beware the scammers! The fine folks at www.scambusters.org have compiled a "Top 10" list of common work-at-home and home based business scams to beware of:
10. Craft Assembly
This scam encourages you to assemble toys, dolls, or other craft projects at
home with the promise of high per-piece rates. All you have to do is pay a
fee up-front for the starter kit... which includes instructions and parts.
Sounds good? Well, once you finish assembling your first batch of crafts, you'll
be told by the company that they "don't meet our specifications."
In fact, even if you were a robot and did it perfectly, it would be impossible
for you to meet their specifications. The scammer company is making money selling
the starter kits -- not selling the assembled product. So, you're left with a
set of assembled crafts... and no one to sell them to.
9. Medical Billing
In this scam, you pay $300-$900 for everything (supposedly) you need to start
your own medical billing service at home. You're promised state-of-the-art medical
billing software, as well as a list of potential clients in your area.
What you're not told is that most medical clinics process their own bills,
or outsource the processing to firms, not individuals. Your software may not
meet
their specifications, and often the lists of "potential clients" are
outdated or just plain wrong.
As usual, trying to get a refund from the medical billing company is like trying
to get blood from a stone.
8. Email Processing
This is a twist on the classic "envelope stuffing scam" (see #1 below).
For a low price ($50?) you can become a "highly-paid" email processor
working "from the comfort of your own home."
Now... what do you suppose an email processor does? If you have visions of forwarding
or editing emails, forget it. What you get for your money are instructions on
spamming the same ad you responded to in newsgroups and Web forums!
Think about it -- they offer to pay you $25 per email processed -- would any
legitimate company pay that?
7. "A List of Companies Looking for Homeworkers!"
In this one, you pay a small fee for a list of companies looking for homeworkers
just like you.
The only problem is that the list is usually a generic list of companies, companies
that don't take homeworkers, or companies that may have accepted homeworkers
long, long ago. Don't expect to get your money back with this one.
6. "Just Call This 1-900 Number For More Information..."
No need to spend too much time (or money) on this one. 1-900 numbers cost money
to call, and that's how the scammers make their profit. Save your money --
don't call a 1-900 number for more information about a supposed work-at-home
job.
5. Typing At Home
If you use the Internet a lot, then odds are that you're probably a good typist.
How better to capitalize on it than making money by typing at home? Here's
how it works: After sending the fee to the scammer for "more information," you
receive a disk and printed information that tells you to place home typist
ads and sell copies of the disk to the suckers who reply to you. Like #8, this
scam
tries to turn you into a scammer!
4. "Turn Your Computer Into a Money-Making Machine!"
Well, this one's at least half-true. To be completely true, it should
read: "Turn
your computer into a money-making machine... for spammers!"
This is much the same spam as #5, above. Once you pay your money, you'll be
sent instructions on how to place ads and pull in suckers to "turn their
computers into money-making machines."
3. Multi-Level Marketing (MLM)
If you've heard of network marketing (like Amway), then you know that there
are legitimate MLM businesses based on agents selling products or services.
One big problem with MLMs, though, is when the pyramid and the ladder-climbing
become more important than selling the actual product or service. If the MLM
business opportunity is all about finding new recruits rather than selling
products or services, beware: The Federal Trade Commission may consider
it to be a pyramid scheme... and not only can you lose all your money, but
you can be charged with fraud, too!
We saw an interesting MLM scam recently: one MLM company advertised the product
they were selling as FREE. The fine print, however, states that it is "free
in the sense that you could be earning commissions and bonuses in excess of the
cost of your monthly purchase of" the product. Does that sound like free
to you?
2. Chain Letters/Emails ("Make Money Fast")
If you've been on the Internet for any length of time, you've probably received
or at least seen these chain emails. They promise that all you have to do is
send the email along plus some money by mail to the top names on the list,
then add your name to the bottom... and one day you'll be a millionaire.
Actually, the only thing you might be one day is prosecuted for fraud. This
is
a classic pyramid scheme, and most times the names in the chain emails are
manipulated to make sure only the people at the top of the list (the true
scammers) make
any money. This scam should be called "Lose Money Fast" -- and it's
illegal.
1. Envelope Stuffing
This is THE classic work-at-home scam. It's been around since the U.S. Depression
of the 1920s and 1930s, and it's moved onto the Internet like a cockroach you
just can't eliminate. There are several variations, but here's a sample: Much
like #5 and #4 above, you are promised to be paid $1-2 for every envelope
you stuff. All you have
to do is send money and you're guaranteed "up to 1,000 envelopes a week
that you can stuff... with postage and address already affixed!" When
you send your money, you get a short manual with flyer templates you're supposed
to put up around town, advertising yet another harebrained work-from-home
scheme. And the pre-addressed, pre-paid envelopes? Well, when people see those
flyers, all they have to do is send you $2.00 in a pre-addressed, pre-paid
envelope.
Then you stuff that envelope with another flyer and send it to them. Ingenious
perhaps... but certainly illegal and unethical.
From all that I've heard, most franchises and multi-level marketing schemes are not profitable unless you pick a great product or service, and you already have a strong background in sales. Beware of any franchise where you wouldn't have a protected territory. My general advice is this: You will probably be better off starting your own business, making, retailing, or consulting about something where you can leverage your existing knowledge and/or experience.
Sleeping can be a real challenge when you are away from your soft
American style bed. here are a few
tips to beat the cold and discomfort.
1. Cardboard. Whether it is making a mattress base or a refrigerator
box bedroom its insulation to cost ratio is amazing. The box provides wind
stop and warmth,
even if you are making a barn or a warehouse your temporary home. Trash sacks
around
the lower layers (not the uppers or, you will soak in condensation) will keep
ground moisture at bay for awhile.
2. Earplugs and Sleep Mask. These allow you to sleep during the day or in a
noisy environment. They must be used
with caution. Hopefully you have someone in your group who will be available
to guard.
3. Booties and Wool Stocking Cap. The booties are extras but
if in a vehicle they keep the hardest to heat place (the feet) warm. Tight
socks (or any
circulation restrictive clothing) are a no-no. The nightcap was popular until
automated
heating became widely available.
Hello Sir,
Sorry I haven't had time to send in an update recently. I'll try to do so in
the near future.
I just wanted to call your attention to an excellent short story [titled "The
Bug Out"] about an ordinary man and his family attempting to bug out. I found
it thoroughly gripping
and
informative. It aptly demonstrates the perils of being an "armchair survivalist." It's
posted online at http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=172494.
The [same] author [who writes under the pen name by Half Fast] is also currently
working on a novel about surviving in the wake of an EMP event. It's called "Lights
Out." Haven't
had a chance to read it yet, but if it's anything like the story it'll be a
real
page turner.
Please check out the story, and mayhaps post it for your readers. I think they
could learn a lot from it.
Anyway, gotta be going. Hope you had a Merry Christmas. As always, stay low,
watch six, and God bless. - John in Iraq
Dear Jim:
Some very good points have been made in the posts on firearms advice - one
of the best being to hit with the most bullet you can handle and carry. The
only better advice I could give is: don't obsess too much about what
you shoot - but do get to a serious combat shooting school sooner, rather
than later. You don't know, what you don't know, till you've been to
a few different schools - no one school has all the answers. Some are
best on weapon handling, some on technical shooting skills, some on tactics,
some on Force on Force combat simulation, etc., etc..
Regarding Model 1911s versus Glocks, I do feel that y'all in the 1911
camp are missing the big picture with regards to advice for survivalists
versus
advice
for "gun
guys."
The 1911 is a great weapon, accurate, hard-hitting, and a superb single action
trigger. But it's standard magazine capacity of 6-to-8 is lacking (unless
you get a special double stack model) and this is a big handicap when you have
multiple threats. But, most damning, is the fact that you often have
to spend a lot of money, or do a lot of work on a 1911, to get excellent reliability. And
anything less than excellent reliability is not worth considering.
Shooting IDPA matches once a month I see 1911s with MULTIPLE malfunctions about
every third month. That is a terrible percentage out of roughly 20, 1911
shooters I see over three squads. This doesn't usually happen to the "serious
gun guys" who have spent a lot of money on their 1911 (or their gunsmith),
and stay on top of maintenance - but it often happens to the more casual shooter. As
an aside, International Defensive Pistol Association (IDPA) matches are a great
reality check to see where your shooting skills are, and great training.
Week-long trips to shooting schools with a lot of rounds down-range show the
same thing - lots of 1911 problems, far fewer Glock problems (unless
you are shooting reloads in a Glock - but then you were just asking for problems!)
The Glock has a heavier, longer and slower "safe-action" trigger,
but a .45 caliber compact Glock 30 holds 10 + 1 rounds, and the full-size Glock
21, (which holds 13 + 1 rounds.) It's only a few rounds more versus a
1911, but which weapon would you rather face 3 or 4 bad guys with? Bonus
- the compact Glock 30 also accepts the 13 round Glock 21 mag - what would
you rather
reload
with, when your gun has been shot dry, 8 or 13? Glocks are not
perfect, but their reliability is superb. I own a bunch of them, and
they all go bang with monotonous regularity - with many hundreds of rounds
between cleanings. They are quick and easy to clean and inspect. And
it is so refreshing to buy a tool that is good to go out of the box (you will
want to add night sights, all else is optional). Glocks are easy...
By the way, the Springfield XD is also an excellent gun I am told - but no
.45 ACP model just yet, just .45 GAP [a short-cased variant of the .45 ACP
cartridge.] SIGs have wonderful quality, but an atrocious, hard-to-shoot
design, with the bore set far too high over the hand, making recoil control
much harder than it needs to be.
Once you get some good technical hands-on shooting instruction the longer Glock
trigger pull is a very small disadvantage. Check out the training at
the Texas Defensive Shooting Academy - two high intensity days there
improved my shooting tremendously even after multiple courses at other very
good schools. See: www.tdsa.net (I
have no financial interest in TDSA, I am just an extremely grateful customer.)
So for the SWAT, or military, or "gun guy" who can spend the
extra time and money to ensure a reliable 1911, I say get the better trigger,
and more power to you. Just practice those speed reloads if you are shooting
an 8 round single stack mag! For most survivalists you can buy two Glocks
for the same money - or better yet, one Glock and some serious training.
Most importantly the Glock will save time. No hassle trying to find a reliable
make and model. No fine tuning. Easy to clean. No diagnostic
trips to the gunsmith. Time is the most scarce commodity when you have
a long survival to do list, and precious little time between work and family
to get it done. Your gun time (and money) is best spent on shooting schools,
not on expensive hardware or gunsmithing. Yours truly, - N. in Texas
Dr. Gary North writes in the latest issue of his REALITY CHECK e-newsletter: "If you get confused about money, the Federal Reserve System, and all this fractional reserve banking stuff, I have a solution. It's the best 45-minute documentary on the Federal Reserve System that I have seen. The good news: it's free. Google is launching a new service. You can post videos on line for free. This means you incur no bandwidth expenses. This is a deal! To see how well this works, click here: http://snipurl.com/fedvideo"
OBTW, if you do not yet subscribe to Gary North's REALITY CHECK e-newsletter,
then you should. Subscriptions are free! See: http://www.dailyreckoning.com/sub/GetReality.cfm
SurvivalBlog reader Dr. Sans Paine recommends the www.epocrates.com web site as a great compendium on pharmaceuticals, including some very useful data on drug interactions. In addition to their "by subscription" service, their free download data is surprisingly complete and updated frequently.
o o o
I was thoroughly disgusted to see that our local electronics store had a large display of Winchester brand knives, complete with the famous Winchester factory logo. That would be great, except that they were all made in mainland China! For example, the pocketknife/white LED flashlight combo pack (both with prominent Winchester logos) was priced at just $14.99. To be able to retail them at that price, these things obviously had to have been made in China's laogui ("Reform Through Labor'') prison factory system. The laogui camps/prisons/factories primarily house political prisoners, some of whom have been incarcerated continuously since the1989 Tiananmen Square protests and massacre. Talk about the ultimate irony: A brand name synonymous with our right to keep and bear arms and personal freedom, but made with slave labor!
While many of us were opening gifts on Christmas morning, SurvivalBlog
reader "Hamlet" said that he was was
casually watching Tim Russert and his guests on Meet the Press. He
reports: "My jaw dropped as Tom Brokaw...told of... family bug-out
plans and stored food/water preparations." The
following is brief excerpt from a transcript of the show. (The link
to access the full
transcript follows.)
---
MR. RUSSERT: Let me talk about an issue that is of grave concern to people
but we don't know much about it and that's the Avian Flu, the potential for
pandemic. We had Dr. Michael Ryan of the World Health Organization on MEET
THE PRESS. Let's listen to him and come back and talk about how to deal with
this.
(Videotape, November 20, 2005):
DR. MICHAEL RYAN (World Health Organization): The avian flu strain has the
potential to become a pandemic strain. It is very worrying that we see this
virus transmitting across the species barrier into humans and the virus itself
is evolving and we are probably closer to a pandemic at any time in the last
37 years, since the last pandemic of '68. This virus has crossed the species
barrier. It has infected humans. It's killing a high proportion of those human
beings and we need to prepare for the possibility of a pandemic.
(End videotape)
MR. RUSSERT: Ted Koppel, how do you cover a story like that without alarming
people and still do your job as a journalist to prepare people?
MR. KOPPEL: You can't. You have to alarm people because until people are sufficiently
alarmed they're not going to listen to what has to happen. You know, what you
don't hear in that sound bite, and what is rarely spoken of, especially among
the politicians, is that the kind of vaccine that would be necessary to treat
the avian flu does not exist. It cannot exist until the strain of avian flu
is developed and can be sampled and can be tested and then, and only then,
can you begin to develop the vaccine. In order to develop sufficient quantities
of that vaccine, to vaccinate people twice, you're going to need so many hundreds
of millions of doses that it will take a minimum of two to three years to get
them. In other words, by the time you
get them, it'll be too late to treat most of the people that would get the
flu. Now, you know, obviously, that raises questions as to what needs to be
done, what can be done. I tried, just before I left "Nightline" to
do a broadcast in which we brought some of the best experts on and said, "Tell
us what we need to know. Tell us what we need to do." Among
the things we need to do, and it sounds horrific, to say it, is to put in a
decent supply of food and water and whatever medicine is needed by a family
in each American home now, before it's too late, so that if, and when, a flu
hits an area, like, let's say, our area here in Washington, the people, especially
older people, or people who have breathing problems, lung problems, people
who have heart problems, can afford to stay home for two or three weeks, or
longer.
MR. BROKAW: Have you done that at your house?
MR. KOPPEL: No, in truth. Have you?
MR. BROKAW: We have.
MR. KOPPEL: Have you?
MR. BROKAW: Yeah.
MR. KOPPEL: Good for you.
MR. BROKAW: Well, we did it for a couple of reasons. Meredith--we live in New
York and we have a house outside of New York and Meredith said, "This
is going to be our sanctuary. We have to be prepared in case something happens." And
we did put in a small supply of food and water and...
MR. KOPPEL: Yeah.
MR. BROKAW: ...other things to have on the ready. It's also--the avian flu
and the pandemic possibilities are a real commentary on the world in which
we're living now. The mobility of people to move across places that--the crush
of population everywhere, how rapidly these things spread. And I think that
leads in this country to a kind
of unsettled feeling on the part of a lot of people. They have so much access
to information now. They don't feel that they have their own sanctuary because
it all happens at warp speed and I think politicians are not doing a very good
job in my impression.
MR. KOPPEL: But, you see, doing what Tom and Meredith have done, and what my
wife and I have not done, yet--will do, I promise--wouldn't at this stage cause
any shortages...
MR. BROKAW: No.
MR. KOPPEL: ...it wouldn't cause any panic. I'm not suggesting that people
go out and instantly buy a four-week supply of medicine...
MR. BROKAW: Right.
MR. KOPPEL: ...food, water. But if you start...
MR. BROKAW: You have to think about it. Yeah.
MR. KOPPEL: ...over a period of the next three months...
MR. RUSSERT: And that's the hard truth, it's probably the only thing you can
do.
MR. BROKAW: Yeah.
MR. KOPPEL: Just--it's the only thing that the individual can do...
MR. BROKAW: Yeah.
MR. KOPPEL: ...so that at the very least, if the pandemic hits your community,
you can stay at home, don't go out.
===
http://msnbc.msn.com/id/10531436/
http://msnbc.msn.com/id/3032608
Frankly, I don't find this too surprising, despite Brokaw's left-of-center leanings. Anyone that has worked in the press and who has been around natural disasters--particularly overseas--soon develops an appreciation of just how fragile societies can be. They've seen civilization come rapidly unglued before, and doubtless realize that it could happen again.
Dear James,
I would carry Rourke's point a bit further. I would never recommend
the use
of a "humane" mouse trap! Given that hantavirus is transmitted via
contact or aerosolization/inhalation of feces, urine or saliva, the last thing
you want around is a trap that keeps a mouse alive long enough for you to handle
it, whereupon it promptly urinates and defecates. A far better solution is to
take a plastic trash bag, place a snap trap inside it and place a bent piece
of cardboard in the bag to hold it open and keep the trap from getting caught
on the bag when it snaps. Once
the mouse is caught, put on your mask and spray the mouse, trap and inside of
the bag with bleach/water. Wait half an hour. Then mask up, put on your gloves,
seal the bag and dispose of the entire mess.
Some people may not regard this as "humane" but neither is dying of
hantavirus pulmonary syndrome, and leaving your wife and kids to deal with the
loss.
Several sources I've consulted suggest that hanta- and Sin Nombre virus degrade
rapidly in the presence of UV light (including direct sunlight) and that the
virus becomes inactive several days after being shed, but neither of these bear
heavily on disinfection issues.
http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/diseases/hanta/hps/noframes/phys/q-a/satconfq_a.htm#6.
I grew up on (and still live on) my family's ranch. Back then, no one ever gave
a second thought to "mouse poop" - we simply swept it up
and while mice in outbuildings were a constant nuisance, they were a fact of
life. Looking back, I never recalled anyone in our community becoming ill or
dying of viral pneumonia, but I suppose it may have happened.
(It makes you wonder how many ranchers and farmers have antibody titres
to
hantavirus.)
It is probably an overstated risk, but still worth considering
- and avoiding. Regards, - Ralph
JWR Replies: The terms "marine battery " and "golf cart battery" are used almost interchangeably by some manufacturers,. Both generally refer to deep cycle lead acid batteries with extra thick plates. Technically, a marine battery is designed not to spill, even when a ship pitches and lists to steep angles. But that is hardly a discriminating issue for someone with a fixed site retreat house. Batteries with either designation work fine.
I recommend that you do not purchase semi-sealed ""maintenance free" batteries. That will hamper you when the battery gets older and it needs to have some distilled water added, or when you want to do a hydrometer test. Yes, standard batteries do lose a bit more water vapor than their semi-sealed cousins, but at least you can work on them! By the way, a method to minimize vapor loss is to retrofit your lead acid batteries with replacement cell caps called Hydro Caps. These are specially designed to recover vapor and return it in liquid form back into the cell reservoirs. They can cut vapor loss by half. The last time I checked, Hydro Caps were available through a number of vendors including Ready Made Resources ( http://readymaderesources.com ), Backwoods Solar Electric Systems (http://www.backwoodssolar.com/), and Real Goods (http://www.realgoods.com/)
OBTW, since lead acid batteries sulfate away to the point of uselessness after 8 to 10 years--even if you just leave them "floating"--if you have a big budget and are concerned about a long term scenario, it would be appropriate to store a complete spare set of batteries for your battery bank. This spare set should be special ordered."dry", and you would add acid only after you need to put the battery bank into operation.
My uncle, a doctor, was living at a remote location in Zambia in the 1980s.
They combined several mutts and a single barrel
shotgun with watch geese to secure their compound. Geese are mean
and very territorial they get noisy, waking the dog. Another option
is several
nervous yap-hounds to wake the larger dogs. Unfortunately, most of
his survival skill was to throw
money or hire someone to solve his problems so I managed to extract
few survival gems from him.He paid over $2,000 [USD equivalent] in
bribes for license and shotgun, I am sure he could have had a FAL
or AK for
that
price.
His friend got a [Browning 9mm] Hi-Power and license for around $1000,
later that year.
"Anything that is complex is not useful and anything that is
useful is simple. This has been my whole life's motto."
- Mikhail Timofeyevitch Kalashnikov, Designer of the AK-47
Note from JWR: If you do businesses with any of the companies mentioned on SurvivalBlog, please tell them where you heard about their products and services.
One of the most important steps that you can take toward self-reliance is developing the ability to produce your own electricity. Alternatives for off-grid power include:
Photovoltaic ("PV") power generation systems use large panels that generate DC voltage. The most durable panels use monocrystaline solar cells in large arrays in weather-sealed panels with glass covers and metal frames. These are designed to last a lifetime with just minimal care, and do not suffer any significant degradation in output over time. They are made with outputs from 5 to 100 watts. They are easily wired in series or series-parallel arrangements to yield the desired voltage and wattage to feed to a battery bank. With plenty of competition between manufacturers, the cost per watt for PV panels has plummeted in the past decade. So PVs are the preferred method of making your own power off grid.
Amorphous solar cells with flexible plastic covers are also now available, but only recommended for tactical applications where you have to stay on the move. In general, amorphous panels are less weather resistant than traditional monocrystaline solar cells hard panels. They also will lose up to 10% of their output over the course of several years, due to UV degradation.
Wind Power systems have been used for many years. Typically they use turbine blades geared to a generator or alternator, mounted on top of a tower. Wind generators work well only at hilltop locations where you get fairly high wind speed regularly. They are relatively high maintenance, noisy, occasionally self-destruct during wind storms, and they pose safety risks for those that climb their towers to do maintenance. In general, I don't recommend wind power systems if you live in an area with good solar exposure. If that is the case, it is usually best to simply add more PV panels to your system rather than adding the complexity of a wind generator system.
One exception to my aforementioned guidance on wind power is wind-powered water well pumping. The reliability of wind power for lifting water directly with mechanical power is an order of magnitude less complex than an a DC wind generator. .. Traditional "AeroMotor" water-pumping windmills (still manufactured) once dotted the landscape in the midwest. They only fell into disuse with the cheap electricity made by the rural electrification programs that began in the 1930s. Water pumping windmills are incredibly simple and efficient: A mechanical windmill that lifts a sucker rod up and down, operating a brass pump cylinder at the bottom of the well shaft. Aside for occasional greasing of bearing surfaces and replacing the pump cylinder leathers every ten years, they require minimal care.
Micro-Hydro systems (small, water-powered Pelton Wheel electrical generators) are great if you live on a fast moving stream or creek where you can get a permit to put in a small dam. (Simple in states like Idaho and Wyoming, but a bureaucratic nightmare in some of the more populous Nanny States.) To be efficient, you need to have enough "fall" of water, since it is that potential energy that is utilized to spin a water turbine. One of the simplest and best little turbines in the micro-hydro world is the "Lil Otto" brand, made by Bob-O Shultze. See: http://www.ibiblio.org/pub/academic/environment/alternative-energy/energy-resources/homepower-magazine/archives/15/15pg14.txt
Batteries, Charge Controllers, and Inverters
Nearly all home power systems utilize a battery bank to store energy and an inverter to convert DC power into 117 VAC. Despite recent advances in gelled and AGM battery designs, the best buy for a fixed location retreat (in terms of amp hours per dollar) is still the good old-fashioned flooded cell lead acid battery. Just be sure to get the heavy duty deep cycle variety, with threaded terminal posts. Because lead-acid batteries are very heavy and shipping costs are usually prohibitive, it is best to buy a set of deep cycle batteries locally. Just contact your local Trojan or Exide battery dealer. Be sure to include a charge controller in your system to prevent over-charging.
If you can suffice with a very frugal and austere lifestyle, you might omit the inverter and buy all 12 VDC and/or 24 VDC appliances. But in practice, this is usually too much to ask of most modern homesteaders who are accustomed to having both DC and AC tools and gadgets.
Resources on the Web:
Home Power Magazine: The best magazine on the subject. They generously provide on-line archives of some of their articles. See: http://www.homepower.com/
Ready Made Resources: Pre-packaged and custom PV systems, inverters, and back-up generators. They provide free consulting. See: http://readymaderesources.com
Backwoods Solar Electric Systems: See: http://www.backwoodssolar.com/ (I've known Steve Willey for about 15 years. He really knows his stuff!)
Real Goods/Jade Mountain: See: http://www.realgoods.com/
Xantrex (formerly Trace) Inverters: See: http://www.xantrex.com/
James:
Dogs are something I know a little about. I'm glad to finally be of some potential
help to readers. I have owned dogs, and raised dogs, for as long as I can remember.
The dogs we have been blessed with run the gamut of breed, from German Shepards,
to Australian Shepards and Blue Heelers, to Rottweilers and various hunting
dogs ranging from English Setters to Redbone coonhounds to Plotts, to the dog
I am going to recommend: The Drahthaar. As many have probably not heard of
this dog,
I have included a link so that it can be studied: http://www.vdd-gna.org/
If I could only own one breed of dog for my retreat, it would be a Rottweiler
of the line I choose. This is because I believe the need for absolute guarding
outweighs the need for hunting and "all-around" ability in my situation.
The Rottweilers I have owned have been stunning animals. Hard, yet very capable
of being trained by family, brave and protective yet sensitive to each situation.
Our male is trained, massive, has incredible prey drive and protection skills,
but our children and their young friends look upon him as a dog that is just
as
happy to spend the day laying in the shade watching them play---or fetching tennis
balls until nobody has the arm left to throw again. Our female is equally skilled,
and adept at all social occasions.
Again, if protection and guarding of livestock is #1? I go with the Rottweiler.
Raise it from puppy with your stock and it will believe them family. As intelligent
an animal as I have ever encountered http://www.vdd-gna.org You
need to find the right bloodlines and breeder. I would never buy a guard animal from a puppy mill. Seriously, if you take any advice...take
that piece of advice. Find a breeder that has personally bred the
line of his / her choosing back at least 20 years. You will pay more, yes, and
get more.
Now, onto the Drahthaar. I have owned and hunted with Drahts for
approximately 15 years. I would urge you (in order to save space
here) to read the
section on "testing program" at my link, to see what
this dog is capable of, and tested on at the highest levels. A Drahthaar from
a good breeder [if real estate is about location, location, location---dogs
are about breeder, breeder, breeder!] will hunt upland birds with the
best of bird dogs. I have taken (over their point) quail, pheasant,
chuckar, grouse...all retrieved to hand. I have also taken many ducks
and geese in very cold conditions, again, fetched to hand. They enjoy
hunting close to their master, are terrific retrievers (on land AND
water), extremely durable, comfortable in frigid
weather and cold water (though they do not have all the protection
of a Lab or Chessie), and the good ones are blessed with an outstanding
tracking nose
and desire to work. Once they understand what you are asking, they can blood
track wonderfully. Ours have proven to be wonderful watch dogs (by that I mean "alert" dogs...barking
when strangers enter upon the property, moving themselves between owner and
stranger naturally) and LOVE to work, work, work. Our Drahts have taken to
obedience training like ducks to water. Again, read the testing program. A
Draht is not an animal to be taken lightly. They are tough, have a gator-type
set of teeth and jowls, and the large males will not be outdone by any feral
dog in a fight---a reality folks, not a sport. Fact is, while it may strike
some as cold...my dogs must be capable of protecting my children from feral
dogs...and this means capable of dispatching the threat, not just barking at
it. If what we believe may
be coming does come, I believe that whatever dog you have must be capable of
following through (as opposed to "wanting to") on driving from your
place feral dogs, coyotes, etc., or dispatching the same if necessary. They
are what I would consider to be a naturally suspicious dog. They love their
pack and distrust all else until the alpha (you, if you are the owner and smart)
lets them know there is no need to worry. They, as the Rotties do too, love
children...at least ours have.
As with the Rotts, raise these from pups with the stock you want them to guard
and tolerate. Both breeds will be protective of your "space",
and provide you with years of love and comfort. One final thing---buy a pup.
Yes, it will take awhile before it is
fully capable as a guard / watch / hunter, but dogs raised from pup on with
a family form a bond that is unbreakable. And, it allows you to cure any bad
habits while still young. I would not buy an adult Rottweiler. I have bought
adult Drahthaars, and they have worked out well---but nothing beats the hand-raised
puppy. May God Bless each of you in 2006, - Straightblast.
Mr. Rawles,
As a dog aficionado I have several recommendations regarding the best dog for
a retreat. Firstly, I believe most hunting dogs are affable companions and
lack the true guard/watch instincts, the Ridgeback being the notable exception.
My heart lies with the herding family of dogs. Many have impressive size and
strength, natural protective instincts and alertness, wariness of strangers,
and almost all make excellent family dogs as they view the family as their flock
to protect. When it comes to dogs the most important thing is to research a breed
before
buying
it so you can match a breed to your lifestyle/habits/realistic expectations of
training and time spent with the animal. This is important because breeds will
have different temperaments and predispositions which you should match to your
own. Someone who never gets out of the house for exercise should never own
a Malamute; someone who lives in Arizona should try to avoid buying a long
hair dog, etc.
Some recommended breeds
Rhodesian Ridgeback
Belgian Shepherds (aka Malinois, Tervuren, Laekenois; names which denote coat type)
Briard
Anatolian Shepherd
Mastiff
Bullmastiff
Giant Schnauzer
(Additional purebred information can be found at www.akc.org, the web site for the American Kennel Club) Best Regards, - Brian
I am partial to the Doberman Pinscher. Regarded universally
as one of the easiest breeds to train, these guys are very user-friendly.
They can be trained with little trouble to behave and do what the
owner wants. I've seen them in the capacity of guard dogs,
but my last Dobie
was the friendliest animal I have ever seen, because I socialized him when he
was young and never rewarded any aggression. He barked, and that's the only "tactical" use
he had. That, and helping me lighten up those heavy
bags of dog food. That was his specialty. Like rottweilers, doberman are portrayed
as mean, violent dogs in the media. A big black dog with his teeth bared is a
strong
psychological deterrent to anyone wanting to cause trouble. If taught properly,
they can be mean and violent to intruders. They are fast and strong, and have
a good sense of pack. Multiple dogs will cooperate if they are put together when
young. Dobies have the proper territorial and predatory instincts you want in
a protective dog. When I was very young, my mother had an old Doberman from before
she
got married. He was a great companion for me when I was young. He was friendly
with his owners, but hostile to those he did not know or like. A good
protector for a single woman living in a less-than-desirable neighborhood. Regards,
- Ben J.
Mr. Rawles,
I'd suggest considering a flock guardian breed: Anatolian Shepherds (I've owned
one); Kuvasz; Great Pyrenees, etc. They are natural guardians of their herd
(two or four-legged) and have not become so popular that they've been over
bred to the point of genetic apotheosis. They are big, strong and healthy dogs.
Also, Anatolians, at least, eat as much as a dog only two thirds their size.
For small rodents? I'd add a couple of small terriers. One dog can't do it
all,
any more than one weapon can. See the URLs for some FAQs:
http://www.anatoliandog.org/thebreed.htm
Picture of: Anatolian at the beach: http://www.anatoliandog.org/ALPSEA.JPG
http://www.anatoliandog.org/history.htm#List
OBTW, I second your recommendation on the Daniel Tortora book!
("The
Right Dog for You.") -
Tom A.
Dear James,
A couple of things to ponder: IR Cyalume
sticks are costly and have a limited shelf life. High intensity IR LEDs
can be easily built into an "intrusion
illumination" system that can be actuated by a number of means (trip wire,
seismic, passive motion detection, command, etc.) LEDs are cheap and a simple,
reusable, battery powered unit with indefinite shelf life can be cobbled
together for a few dollars.
Visible and IR LEDs can be made into lights for a variety of uses including illumination
and signaling. See: http://www.trailquest.net/TQaltgear.html#LED
Years ago, I had an odd dream. I dreamt that I was awakened by a noise from my
living room. I arose, shotgun in hand and silently rolled a small, clear plastic
ball
into the room. After a few seconds' delay the ball glowed and lit the room with
the characteristic glow of a cyalume stick. The implications were obvious - a
flashless, noiseless, nonexploding, nondestructive illuminating "grenade" might
have a use
in certain circumstances (especially if it emits in the IR end of the spectrum.)
These days, however, I'd opt to build a small, tetrahedral array out
of tubing
(think of a caltrop, one LED would always point skyward) using visible or IR
diodes with a battery and a timer chip to provide a delay. I'm not certain what
the EMP issues would be, but LEDs would take up very little storage space inside
a grounded locker or can.
For electronics bugs, it's also worth noting that inexpensive laser diodes can
be used to build a secure, line-of-sight communications system that can, with
appropriate tweaking, "broadcast" over several kilometers. No FCC license
is required.See: http://captain.haddock.8m.com/laser/laser1.html and http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/ee476/FinalProjects/s2003/kmc29/index.htm
Jim:
There's a product called "Tomcat" that's
a solid bar of coumarin poisoned feed. It's less messy and more convenient
than D-Con and can be placed outside with little or no risk to non-rodent
wildlife. (BTW, coumarin is effectively the same as "Coumadin" -
that is, warfarin anticoagulant. The way it works is diabolically clever. The
mice eat it and it slowly anticoagulates them until they hemorrhage
internally. This induces thirst and they often leave the area in search
of water before they die. As another aside, I remember hearing about
a rancher in Ely, Nevada who was too cheap to buy generic warfarin
to
prophylax his atrial fibrillation. He used D-con with good results!
Certainly not a recommended regimen, but it worked.)
Any area infested with mice should be treated as contaminated with
hantavirus. No one should enter the area without a P-100 or N-100 mask.
Droppings should
be sprayed or wet-mopped with a 1:10 bleach/water solution and allowed to soak
for thirty minutes or more. (Recall that contact time, not concentration is
the essential element of disinfection.) Sweeping and vacuuming should be avoided
as they aerosolize dust bound to viral particles. Disposable latex gloves are
essential. "Snap traps" baited with peanut butter seem to be very
effective in attracting and killing deer mice, a major vector of hantavirus.
In disposing of trapped mice, first spray the trap and surrounding area with
bleach/water, allow a half hour or more and dispose of both mouse and trap
via double-bagging into the trash, burying or burning. Here's a source for
hantavirus information: http://www.doh.wa.gov/topics/hanta.htm
The best solution for mouse infestation is mouseproofing, as Rourke points
out. Keep food and potential nesting materials sealed in mouse-resistant containers
and inspect them frequently. Cats, ferrets and even [de-scented] skunks (vaccinated
against rabies) are valuable allies against mice. Of note, they are apparently
not susceptible to hantavirus, do not become carriers and cannot spread it
to humans. See: http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/diseases/hanta/hps/noframes/transmit.htm
It may be worthwhile to create perches and nesting boxes for hawks and owls.
In addition to being fun to watch, it's worth considering that a single family
of barn owls may consume up to 3000 mice a year.
See: http://members.tripod.com/Tommy51/aboutbarnowls.html and
http://www.sarep.ucdavis.edu/pubs/barn_owl.html
A very Merry Christmas and a Joyous New Year! - "Moriarty"
Mr. Rawles:
We are surrounded by sugar cane fields here in southern
Louisiana, after they harvest the cane, a few days later they burn
the fields. (Much to our displeasure). When they do that all the field
mice go looking for some place else to stay.
My work shop gets over run. You put out a bunch of traps and you
may catch some but then they stop working until you empty them and
reset them .. until now ..I found this some where on the web. You take
a five gallon bucket drill a hole in both sides about a inch down from
the top. Get a metal rod that will pass through both holes and reach
all the way across the bucket. Get a quart metal paint can with the
top on it and punch a whole in the top and the bottom big enough to
have the rod pass through it, get it in the center of the bucket, run
the rod through it [acting as a spindle], then put some electrical
tape on both sides to keep it in the middle. Put four globs of peanut
butter on the paint can about 45 degrees apart.Fill the bottom quarter
of the bucket with water. Now take a piece of wood and make a ramp
leading up to the paint can. Mouse jumps on paint can, paint can spins
dumps mice in to water, ready for the next mouse, come out the next
day pour out the dead mice and refill with water
if you can see one mouse, count on the fact that there are a lot more
your not seeing.
JWR Replies: I 've used the same method, but simply
used a straightened coat hangar wire as the spindle for the can.
The Memsahib recently showed me an even more simple method: Again, use a bucket partly filled with water. Cover it with a piece of newspaper that is taped in place. Put a glob of peanut butter in the middle of the paper. After a couple of days of getting the mice accustomed to visiting this "feeding station", simply cut an "X" in the newspaper, about 5 inches across. It works like a charm.
James:
My brother in law in New York uses a coal pot belly stove to help keep
his heating bills down. He usually buys a ton of coal in june of every
year and stores it in his garage in a coal bin that he built. He buys it
in June because
the price of coal in
cheaper
in June, imagine that. As for storing a three year supply of coal, why couldn't
someone dig a trench, fill it with coal and then put something like two inches
of dirt on top
of
it.
It's
not like the coal will rot. As long as he doesn't need it, it is right there
not
taking up any space and no one knows he has it. - J.M.
"The slowness of one section of the world about adopting the
valuable ideas of another section of it is a curious thing and unaccountable.
This form of stupidity is confined to no community, to no nation; it
is universal. The fact is the human race is not only slow about borrowing
valuable ideas — it sometimes persists in not borrowing them
at all.
Take the German [Masonry] stove, for instance — to the uninstructed
stranger it promises nothing; but he will soon find that it is a masterly
performer.
The process of firing is quick and simple. At half past seven on a
cold morning one brings a small basketful of slender pine sticks and
puts half of these in, lights them with a match, and closes the door.
They burn out in ten or twelve minutes. He then puts in the rest and
locks the door, and carries off the key. The work is done. He will
not come again until next morning. All day long and until past midnight
all parts of the room will be delightfully warm and comfortable.
Americans could adopt this stove; but no, we stick placidly to our
own fearful and wonderful inventions of which there is not a rational
one in the lot. The American wood stove, of whatsoever breed, is a
terror.
There can be no tranquility of mind where it is. It requires more attention
than a baby. It has to be fed every little while, it has to be watched
all the time; and for all reward you are roasted half your time and
frozen the other half. It warms no part of the room but its own part;
it breeds headaches and suffocation, and makes one’s skin feel
dry and feverish; and when your wood bill comes in you think you have
been supporting a volcano.
Consider these aspects of the Masonry stove. One firing is enough for
the day; the cost is next to nothing; the heat produced is the same
all day, instead of too hot and too cold by turns; one may absorb himself
in his business in peace. Its surface is not hot; you can put your
hand on it anywhere and not get burnt, yet one is as comfortable in
one part of the room as another." - Mark Twain, "Some National
Stupidities", 1891
I'm curious to know what breeds of dogs are recommended by SurvivalBlog readers. I'd like to hear your opinion on the ideal the "All-Around Retreat Dog" breed--one that is a good watch dog with a strong sense of territory, loyalty to its masters, distrustful and vociferous when intruders approach, large enough to be taken seriously by intruders, protective when confronted by bears or mountain lions, and alert to poisonous snakes. Ideally, it would also be versatile enough for other responsibilities such as guarding livestock and perhaps killing mice and rats. Secondarily, it would be advantageous to have the same dog be suitable for small game hunting, waterfowl retrieving, and upland game hunting. Yes, I know that meeting all of those requirements is asking a lot. Which breeds come close to meeting all of these needs? I'll mention three different breeds in this post. But I suspect that you'll have some other breed suggestions, and/or some more observations about my favorite breeds.
Before I go on, I should mention that I've noticed that many people casually use the terms watch dog and guard dog interchangeably. In fact they are two different things: A watch dog is watchful, alert, territorial, and will bark whenever something is amiss. A guard dog, in contrast, has all of the watch dog traits, and it is willing/able to actually attack an intruding human.
Those of you that have read my novel ("Patriots") will recall that I highlighted the Rhodesian Ridgeback breed. This member of the hound family was originally bred in Africa for hunting lions. The Ridgeback has some unusual characteristics: They are known for their propensity for tree-climbing. They are also known for their excellent sense of smell and tracking/trailing ability. They have an unusual band of fur that runs up their spine that has a "grain" that runs in the opposite direction as the rest of the fur on their backs. (Hence the name "Ridgeback.") They are known as fearless hunters, and highly territorial guard dogs. The drawbacks to the breed are that they tend to be "one man dogs" and do not always bond well with all of the members of a family. They also have tendencies toward both congenital hip dysplasia and less often, dermoid sinus. So make sure you get a written health guarantee from the breeder on both of those points.
There are several other varieties of hounds that might be suitable as an "all-in-one" breed for a retreat dog. Hounds tend to be intelligent but unfortunately they also tend to wander.
I've never owned one, but the original Standard (full size) Poodle is highly recommended as an exceptionally versatile breed: retriever, pointer, companion, and watch dog, all in one. The "Pudel" was originally bred in central Europe as bird hunting dog. If you keep their fur uniformly trimmed short they won't look prissy like their kleine Toy Poodle cousins. In fact, with a short "hunting" haircut most folks won't even recognize the dog as a Poodle.
The Airedale is the largest breed in the Terrier family. Airedales are another breed known for their versatility. One particular attribute is their tremendous loyalty. One of our neighbors in our old stomping grounds--up in the wilds of north-central Idaho had a much-celebrated Airedale named Lochsa Louie. Louie was famous for defending the children of his owners from mountain lion and bear attacks. Louie eventually died of wounds received in one such incident and was soon replaced by Lochsa Louie II, who came from the same breeder. (There was copious newspaper ink spilled on this dog. Louie was so famous that they named a saloon after him. Or was it was the other way around?)
Before you select a dog breed, you should check your library for a copy of the book "The Right Dog for You" by Daniel F. Tortora. Inexpensive used copies of this book is also available from Amazon.com. This book is excellent because it rates the various breeds in sixteen temperament "dimensions" including:
Dominance/Submissiveness to humans
Dominance/Submissiveness other dogs
Intelligence
Watch Dog Ability
Guard Dog Ability
BTW, it is not always best to select the most intelligent breeds. This is because the most intelligent dog breeds tend to try to solve problems. If left alone, for example, they will often become escape artists--finding clever ways to climb over fences, open gate latches, or dig tunnels under fences.
Lastly, don't forget to consider the types of weeds and grasses that are common at your retreat. If there are lots of foxtails and other weeds that get caught is dog's coat then you should probably consider a short-haired breed.
The hunting and security dog breeding world is about to be stood on it head: Many of the same congressmen that have been after your guns are now after your dogs. Proposed legislation called called The Protection of Animal Welfare Statute (PAWS) designated S. 1139 / H.R.2669 would make hunting dog breeders and sellers subject to Federal (USDA) licensing. Under the legislation's incredibly loose wording, the term ''dealer'' means any person who buys or sells any dog for hunting, security, or breeding purposes
If this bill passes, breeders who sells even just one dog of a "hunting breed" will be designated as a USDA "dealer" and be subject to USDA dealer regulations. These regulations would make it impossible to raise puppies in a home. Because of the expense of complying with all the USDA regulations, hobby breeders will be forced to give up breeding. This will mean that the only puppies available to buy will be those raised for profit by commercial breeders who raise puppies like livestock, without proper socialization. One such kennel in Wisconsin produces 2,500 puppies a year!
We have tried twice to adopt purebred dogs from rescue organizations. In each case the dogs lacked a bond to humans which completely ruined them for being family pets. We will never get another dog that hasn't been raised in someone's home with lots of handling and exposure to all the noise and chaos in the average American home from the day they are born.
You can learn more about the PAWS legislation at: http://www.dfow.org/paws.htm. The bureaucrats are stealing our liberty with the death of a thousand paper cuts. It can be stopped, but only if we are vigilant and politically active.
"Likely terrorist EMP targets are key financial centers such as Wall Street, The City district in London, or the Paradeplatz in Zurich. This would cause incalculable damage to computer hardware and software associated with stock and commodities markets, banking, international currency exchanges, and pension funds." - James Wesley, Rawles, from a feature article on High Technology Terrorism, Defense Electronics magazine, January, 1990.
If you are stockpiling food and supplies, you should have a system of pest
control in place. Mice are probably your first and most serious concern, but
rats, other vermin, and of course insects also come into play depending on
what types of food you are storing, in what containers, and where you are.
If most your food is in #10 steel cans, you may only have to worry about other
supplies, like toilet paper, which can make a nice nesting ground for them,
and incredible mess for you.
As when with dealing any foe, you need to understand the workings and weaknesses
of your enemy and use that against them. Starting on the outside, mice don’t
like to run across open areas, inside our out. This is a natural instinct so
they are not seen by predators, birds of prey in particular. Thus keeping the
grass down and not having a lot of cover right next to your house, retreat,
garage, etc. can help a little. Your first main line of defense is the point
of entry. Leaving your garage door open is an invitation to mice. Also, sliding
doors, like barn doors, simply do not offer good sealing protection. In a barn
with such sliding doors, you probably might as well get a barn cat. If you
are building a new pole barn with wooden posts, consider wrapping tin on the
outside of the wood posts all the way around before back filling, and overlapping
with the siding material on top of the tin (leaving to place to chew through
wood, just metal).
On keeping them outside, mice have tiny little narrow skulls which allow them
to squeeze through very small holes. Basically if you can get a dime through
sideways, a mouse can get through. I have seen mice eat a hole through 5/8”-thick
drywall. “Great
stuff”, and such foam sealers (in a can) does work well, and contains
chemicals to make them sick, but they can still eat through it. However, they
won’t try to eat through steel wool, so plugging an existing hole with
that usually works. For some reason, they don’t like walking straight
into the ends of the bristles of a brush, so if you mount one that way, they
probably won’t walk into it (this can be used around a garage door where
you can’t will in the gap because of movement). Also, they tend not to
like the smell of fabric softener sheets (the kind that you throw in the dryer).
As for those sonic plug in, devices, I have tried but them, but found zero
effect,
and also be aware some pets may not like that.
Once inside, mice will tend to run along walls. Therefore the best levels of
defense are to put wind-up spin metal traps (not baited) on the wall on either
side of a door or point of entry, a garage door in particular. These are nice
because you can just leave them be, and they will catch mice over and over
in a catch chamber, which you later empty. Also in that area, inside, you can
put out poison. (Such as "De-con"), but do it in a way so that your pets can’t
get to it. In most states it is illegal to poison outside, to protect birds
of
prey, etc. Some people tell me poisoning mice inside is a bad idea since the
mice will crawl into little cracks and die, thus leaving a stinking corpse
for you to smell. I have two answers to this, first a body that small tends
to dry up even in most climates reasonably fast, and secondly, more importantly,
corpses don’t breed. In the case of a rat, yes [because of it size] you
are going to have a stinking corpse to find, but I repeat second comment on
that again. (Also, the only good thing about rats is they tend to chase off
mice). Now as you get in to your kitchen and food storage areas, you use baited
traps. Those cheap spring traps work well. Use peanut butter, and what also
works well, and really well for rats, is that cheap fatty potted meat stuff
in those little cans. For tiny and young mice that clean your traps without
setting them off, you are going to need some glue traps. Once again, put them
along the walls in covered areas where they will run at night. Save those until
you need them, because they are not reusable, they lose their stickiness.
If you come across a nest of baby mice, the best way to deal with it is to
drown the babies. A pail half full of water will do the trick. Dump them in,
the whole nest, and come back in an hour, and they’ll be dead. They can’t
swim.
Mice and rats are a serious threat to your health, food, and supplies. If they
go unchecked, such as in a remote retreat, they can do incredible damage over
time as they multiply. If you are infested, call in the experts, they do have
gas that will kill everything, but it will cost you. IMHO it is best to take
these basic preventative steps first.
More information:
Do it yourself Pest Control: http://doityourself.com/pest/pestcontrol.htm
Pest Products:: http://www.pestproducts.com
Nice selection of mouse traps:http://www.pestproducts.com/rodent_traps.htm and
http://store.yahoo.com/mainesupply/?OVRAW=mouse%20traps&OVKEY=mouse%20trap&OVMTC=standard
Humane mouse traps: http://www.biconet.com/traps/smt.html
I put the last one in for one reason: Some people in your family or group
are simply not going to like “killing” mice, and may go do far
as to sabotage your traps. I have seen this happen in a food company. I would
suggest you get tough with them, such as serving them the food that the mice
got into as their ration. However, if it is you that feels this way,
then, yes, “humane” traps can work, but I have found them to be
less effective. - Rourke (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/survivalretreat)
Hey, I just wanted to write in to comment on what seems to me like a missing element in your survival location analysis. Military installations across the United States are presumably not all evenly distributed, and the presence of these bases not only affects your location in the event of a NBC scenario, but if the Schumer] really hits the fan, even well disciplined American servicemen and women will attempt to ensure their own survival even at the cost of local civilians. Now I assume that it would take a world ending event for our military to act in that fashion, but it is within the realm of possibility. So the nature of the military bases is relevant beyond their status as nuclear targets. That is to say, Air Force bases and Navy installations pose a substantially smaller threat of local domination than do Army bases. Again, this is not to say this is likely at all, just that is possible. Further, the size of the base and its local inventories become relevant should they attempt to dominate the local area. I'm sure that there are other insights to be contributed by others more knowledgeable, but I figured it was worth sparking the discussion. Thanks so much. - J.D.
Jim:
Military surplus HK91 alloy magazines
have been available for several years in the $1-to-$3 price range. It seems
to me that the only people who should buy them are HK rifle owners who own
less than 50 magazines. Before buying HK magazines as barter items, consider
that the market has already been flooded with far more than are needed for
the limited number of existing rifles. The German military torched most of
their rifles, but sold most of the magazines. Other mags (such as for AR-15)
may be great future demand, but I would not bet on the HK. - Mr. Bravo
JWR Replies: Yep, you are probably right: AR-15s are far more commonplace than HK91s (and their clones.) But don't forget that a CETME rifle can also use HK91 magazines, and CETME owners are notoriously frugal individuals ), so chances are that they will only have four or five magazines on hand. Like everyone else WTSHTF they will suddenly want to own 25 or more magazines. Perhaps $50 is not too much to gamble with, for a potentially valuable barter commodity.
Another practical use for HK91 alloy magazines? Here is a trick that I leaned
from Mr. Tango:
Because of their light weight, an alloy HK91 magazine positioned top-end-up
in tightly-fitting
ammo pouch makes an ideal "speed" ammo holder for reloading
bolt action rifles, particularly if you clip a few coils off of their
magazine springs. BTW, if those mags are going to be held in double magazine
pouches, tape them together with duck tape so that they don't rattle together.
Note that it is important that you always use tightly-fitting mag pouches.
If they don't fit tightly, then build up the exterior dimension of the magazine(s)
with cardboard and duct tape until they do fit tightly in their pouches.
(If the mags wobble in the pouches, it will be difficult to get a "purchase" to
strip off the cartridges into your hand.)
Note from JWR: A reminder that we are still accepting entries for Round 2 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The writer of the best article will win a four day course certificate at Front Sight. (An up to $2,000 value!) The deadline for entries is the last day of January, 2006.
I recently got a letter from a SurvivalBlog reader who sounded confused
about what "Condition One" means for a single action (SA) auto pistol. So
I'll presume that it is time to backtrack a bit and post a short piece on the
standardized
Model
1911 "Condition
Codes." These were originated by Col. Jeff Cooper. OBTW, these terms
are also applicable to most other semi-auto pistols with
exposed hammers:
Condition 0 - Ready to fire: The pistol has cartridges in
the magazine, a round is in the chamber, the hammer is cocked, and the safety
is off.
Condition 1 - The pistol has cartridges in
the magazine, a cartridge
is chambered, the hammer is cocked, and the safety is in the up (safe) position.
Also known as the "cocked
and locked" carry condition.
Condition 2 - A cartridge is in the chamber, the hammer
is down, and the pistol has cartridges in
the magazine.
Condition 3 - The chamber is empty and hammer is down, but
the pistol has a full magazine. This condition is also known as "Israeli
Carry."
Condition 4 - The chamber is empty, hammer is down and no
magazine is in the pistol.
My comments:
Condition 1 is recommended for concealed carry.
Condition 2 presents potential safety hazards and is not recommend for
either carry or for storage.
Condition 3 could possibly be warranted for open carry in some localities where
unknowledgeable people might be agitated if they see you carrying a "cocked" pistol
in a hip holster. But be advised that Israeli-style carry requires two
hands and more time to get the pistol into Condition 0. (Ready
to fire.) The need for two hands could be a problem if you are holding something
in one hand, injured, or engaged hand-to-hand.
Condition 4 is how I store our pistols in our gun vault.
It is noteworthy that by SOP, any firearm that comes out of our vault is immediately loaded. Everyone in the family assumes that any gun seen here at the ranch anywhere outside of the vault is loaded at all times, and it is treated as such. Avoiding ambiguity helps reduce the chance of accidents.
I just noticed that our compadre "Warlord" over at the Alpha-Rubicon
site posted a very handy article last year about how to construct a "fan
in a can" for
a home fallout
shelter. See: http://www.alpharubicon.com/basicnbc/safefanwar.htm
o o o
Noah Schactman
at the Defense Tech blog mentioned an interesting briefing that is available
in PDF about some recent non-lethal weapon developments:
http://www.smallwars.quantico.usmc.mil/programs/NLW/JNLWPRefBook_feb2004.pdf Ya
gotta love those caltrops!
o o o
The
folks at the AUSurvivalist site (in Australia) have some interesting documents
available for free download. See:
http://www.aussurvivalist.com/downloads.htm
"And the angel said unto them, Fear not: for, behold, I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people. For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord." - Luke 2:10-1, KJV
Note from JWR: I wish the readers of SurvivalBlog a Joyful Christmas as we celebrate the birth of our Savior. I also wish a Festive Hanukkah to our Jewish readers. Thank you for your great letters and contributed articles, and your loyal patronage of our advertisers. Special thanks to the 28 readers that have made 10 Cent Challenge blog support contributions in recent weeks. I especially appreciate this because I know that funds are tight for many people this time of year. Have a safe, happy, and healthy Aught Six.
Jim:
Many people are strategically relocating, getting settled into their new
homes, preparing for the economic crash, and war that is surely coming. As
the gent
from Argentina said with hindsight: "more
food" and trade goods. In addition to obtaining the obvious
water, food, seeds, preparing the ground for a large garden, and protection
there are some
additional things all of us need to consider. Remember you are simply investing
in your future. Here is my list:
* Get to know the old timers, people who are active but advanced in years.
Go visit them. Have them to your home. Ask a question or two to open conversation,
then shut up, and let them talk. They know who can be trusted and who cannot
be trusted.
* If you want to know about a builders, plumbers, electricians, road graders
or handy men, families by name, wife beaters and child molesters, ask an
old timer. You will soon learn who is trustworthy and who is not. Remember,
you
are information gathering. Your views are not important. Ask the question
and then
shut up. Listen to the old timers.
* Search the local and county newspaper stacks for the names of people who
were arrested and charged with a crime. You will have to be alert for these
individuals
as we enter into hard times.
* Identify local politicians and enforcement people with the I am God attitude.
Identify their shooters. Remember most of these people have not prepared.
Some you will be able to bribe, others, oh well.
* Buy more open pollinated seeds than you think you will need.
* Buy more ammunition. If this thing lasts 3-to-5 years, followed by a war
you will
be glad that you did.
* Buy reloading capabilities and dies. Buy lead bullet casting capabilities.
Buy more powder, primers and bullets.
* Buy more clothes than you think you need.
* Buy more canned food than you think you need to last at least three years.
* Buy more gardening and mechanics tools than you think you need.
* Buy socks, shoes and boots.
* Buy local and regional maps.
* Collect telephone books for use as toilet paper.
I have another e-mail in progress that will discuss issues of war.- M.L.T.
G'day from Down Under.
In you post on the TEOTWAWKI rifles,
you mentioned .303s. While the rifles are plentiful, robust and inexpensive,
the ammo is becoming very hard to find
and expensive. Example, Winchester 303 SP is
$ 48 AUD per box of 20 here. Good ex-military ball is about $80 to $100 per
100 (if you can find it) and will
be at least 30 years old.
The Ishapore Mk.2s are a much better bet, cost about the same, and take 7.62
[mm NATO]. Or perhaps, one of the ex-Israeli [K98] Mausers [chambered] in .308?
However, I personally feel that the best rifle would be one of those Savage
Model 24s, preferably the 24C. The choice of a shotgun or rifle barrel with
the flick of a switch. Or any reliable .22 LR or .22 Winchester Magnum rimfire.
This is not intended to fight
with, more a foraging tool, to put food in the pot. Think about it: If you
had to walk (worst case scenario) to your retreat, what would you take? Grab
a
brick of 22 LR. Weigh it. Now grab 500 rds of .223 or
7.62mm NATO. weigh that. I used to be able to walk miles with a MAG-58 [belt-fed
7.62mm NATO MMG]
and 800 rds,
plus the other 50 or so KGs, but
I was a lot younger
and fitter then. Now the lack of a good self loader in .223, and the rest of
the platoon for back-up, has lead me to think that maybe a good 22 Mag or LR,
and trying to avoid trouble, might be the way to go. JMHO, YMMV.
Merry
Christmas. Cheers, - Dave.
James:
Can you please address your preference of the L1A1 over the more common metric
FALs? I settled on the metric version mainly because it is generally more common,
has better parts availability, cheaper and easier to find magazines, overall
less
expensive and just as reliable. I do add a FSE oversize
mag release and a Israeli forward assist (FA) charging handle along with necessary
bolt
carrier
modification to all my metric
FALs. What am I missing by not going with the L1A1? Thanks, - C.W.
JWR Replies: I believe that there are several distinct advantages to having an "inch pattern" (L1A1) instead of one of the metric measurement FN-FALs. These advantages include:
1.) The ability to use inch OR metric magazines. If you have a metric FAL, you are limited to using only metric magazines. But if you have an inch receiver rifle you can use both inch and metric mags. (The latter wobble a bit when used in an L1A1, but they still feed reliably.)
2.) Inch magazines are sturdier than metric magazines, because they are heavier gauge steel. And if they ever do get dented, L1A1 magazines can be repaired with a mandrel block, but metric mags cannot. (If you lay an inch mag and a metric mag side by side, you will notice that the floorplate retaining tabs on a metric magazine are turned inward, whereas they are turned outward on an inch mag. Hence there is no way for a metric magazine to accept a dent-removing mandrel.)
3.) A larger safety selector switch that you can't miss with your thumb.
4.) A larger, ambidextrous magazine release. (Unlike the tiny mag release on the metric FAL, which is designed for the convenience of right handers.)
5.) A sturdy folding charging handle is standard. If you've ever tripped and fallen while carrying a metric FAL, you'll appreciate this feature. There is nothing quite like taking a blow from metric charging handle to the solar plexus!
6.) Sturdier and less reflective stock furniture. The British Maranyl pebble grain black plastic furniture is practically bomb proof.
7.) Buttplates that come in a wide range of thicknesses, to accommodate shooters of various heights. Proper stock length usually means more accurate shooting.
8.) Better rear sights. OBTW, the inch pattern "Hythe" dual-aperture variant is a great sight with the versatility needed for long range shooting, close quarters combat, and night shooting. I have Hythe sights on four of the five L1A1s at the Rawles Ranch. (The fifth rifle is a metric Para Model (folding stock) FAL "L1A1 wannabe" on which I had the receiver re-cut by Rich Saunders at Century Gun Works to accept inch magazines.)
9.) An integral winter trigger arrangement that is always stowed and available in the pistol grip. (One downside is that L1A1s don't have the "in the grip" miniature cleaning kit found on metric FALs.)
10.) A slightly more efficient flash hider. (I've viewed a video of a nighttime test that was filmed by a SurvivalBlog reader, using identical ammo, and the difference was apparent.)
11.) Specially-designed "Sand Cut" bolts and bolt carriers, designed to operate more reliably in grungy environments.
In summary: Yes, the parts and magazines for inch pattern L1As are slightly more expensive, but the advantages that I just related more than compensate for the greater expense.
For those of you that presently own metric FALs, I suggest that you keep them and just improve them a bit: For example, I recommend retrofitting them with inch pattern magazine releases and selector switches. And unless you have one of the excellent Israeli-style forward assist charging handles, you should also consider retrofitting with an inch-style folding charging handle.
All of the aforementioned parts are available from The FALFiles Marketplace. (See: http://www.falfiles.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=11 )
Dear Mr. Rawles,
With respect to the great sidearm debate, I suspect that a much underrated
feature of the M1911 family lies in the ubiquity of the family. As a disclaimer,
I should
note that I am an unabashed, though not uncritical, fan of the 1911 design.
I am much inclined to believe that the Schumer and
the fan will become commingled in my lifetime. Assuming that they do, the ballistic
superiority of a round
may become less relevant than the availability of spare parts, ammunition,
and expertise
for keeping the gun functioning. When you start to think of these factors,
the superiority of the M1911 proclaims itself.
With respect to the availability of ammunition, I believe that the .45 ACP
and the [9mm] parabellum are equivalent. This factor, however, militates against
the
use of flavor-of-the-month (though possibly ballistically superior) rounds
such as
10MM, .357 Sig, and .40 [S&W]. My father has frequently said that you can't
depend on a weapon for which you can't find ammo in the boonies of East Texas.
When
you get to that point, you are left with only two real choices in pistol calibers.
The availability of spare parts distinguishes the M1911 from all comers. The
CONUS "installed base" for 1911s
is in the millions. I am given to understand that a total of 20 manufacturers
currently produce M1911s. Because of this
breadth
of install base, the local gunsmith keeps enough parts in stock to perform
any repairs that I need. Even if his stock runs dry, there are M1911s salted
away
in places that you never expect, all of which may be cannibalized to provide
my 1911 with some part or another in a pinch. There is a great deal to be
said
for the fact that my next-door-neighbor has one, one of my coworkers has one,
another coworker has 3, my financial advisor has one, all of the guys that
sell guns to me carry them for self defense, my best friend from college carries
one,
my best friend from grad school carries one, and his roommate keeps one. Ubiquity
means that somebody probably has a spare recoil spring. If the Schumer and
the fan become commingled, I may need that spring. I bought a 1911 for cash
once because
I knew that, even if it didn't fire, the parts were worth more than I was paying.
Let us now talk about expertise. Again, there are more people in the world
who have had to disassemble and diagnose a 1911 than have had to perform these
operations
on a Glock. If my 1911 becomes unhappy, that base of knowledge may be incredibly
valuable to me. I have addressed a pragmatic set of concerns for logistically
grim world. I don't carry 1911s because of these grim concerns, but I do think
that they
should legitimately
inform the discussion among your readers. My best regards and a Merry
Christmas, - K.A.D.
The latest statistics on annual state population increases were just released.
I see that Nevada has been named the top gainer this year, yet again.
Doubtless, a lot
of that
is attributable to folks fleeing California's taxes, smog, crime, traffic
and idiotic civilian disarmament laws. Sadly, the influx of liberal Californians
is gradually turning Nevada into another California. See: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/12/22/AR2005122200268_pf.html
o o o
Our British cousins will be feeling the screws turned yet a bit tighter, starting in Aught Six. The latest outrage to freedom is total surveillance of private automobile movements, with a huge database that will be maintained for at least two years: See: http://news.independent.co.uk/uk/transport/article334686.ece Perhaps they ought to be honest and simply rename the place Airstrip One. (George Orwell was right!)
o o o
We've made a few additions to the SurvivalBlog Glossary.
o o o
The enrollment deadline to buy a Front Sight $1,200 Lifetime Challenge First Family Membership has been to extended to December 31st. Naish Piazza says this will be the last extension. In my opinion, it is a great deal that you should seriously consider. A First Family Membership makes a great Christmas gift, for those of you that were late doing your shopping.
o o o
Kudos to #1 Son, who created new navigation buttons for our web page top bar that are faster to load. That will be good news to the SurvivalBlog readers that, like us, live out in the dial-up connection hinterboonies.
o o o
Such a deal: Tapco is selling batches of 50 HK91 alloy 20 round mags for $50. See: http://www.tapco.com/product_information.asp?number=MAG3004&back=yes Even if a few turn out to be dented, that is still a fantastic price. At that price, I might buy 50 just for barter,
In our modern world, jobs are incredibly and increasingly specialized. Many
of us have jobs that may be of little use if TSHTF and
society collapses. As many of us may have to look for another way to make
a buck, or perhaps
more accurately to trade or barter with, consider bettering yourself by attaining
a high level of proficiency in at least one secondary survival skill (the
more the better).
I have listed below a few useful to survival skills, or secondary occupations
that you can learn quite a bit about if you just treat it like a hobby, or
a self improvement course. Along with having some informational materials,
some experience, the expectation is you would also have at least the basic
tools (power and hand tools and library of reference information) of the trade(s)
you choose.
This also makes the point for a group working together as a team. Even the
biggest Jack or Jill of all trades (which many survivalists are), would be
hard pressed to really know the entire list below and have enough basic tools
or supplies to do each and every on this things well. Just like with most teams,
people have to play different positions well for the team to be a winner.
Alternate Energy – biogas, bio diesel, alcohol, steam power, solar cells, windmills, etc.
Ammunition Reloading Equipment & Supplies (gun repair & maintenance)
Childcare – baby sitting, preschool
Computers – may be impossible to get parts, chips in particular, but can keep them running by cannibalizing…
Construction – rough construction of homes, poles barns, etc.
Butchering - cutting and curing of meats, sausage making
Candle making – including soy based, bees wax
Dental – hygiene, dentistry, oral surgery
Electric supply & repair - home electric system design/repair, off grid
Electronics – repair of as many electronic gadgets as possible
Engine repair & maintenance. Auto, truck, tractor, small motor
Fire fighting – rescue operations in all conditions
Fishing – netting, multiple lines, trolling, ice fishing
Ham radio – this is its own category since it requires a specific license. (Now issued at three different levels)
Herbs – alternate medicine, nutrition
Home schooling – teaching supplies, text books, etc.
Hunting – trapping, snares, training hunting dogs
Farming – crops – small scale farming many crops, large scale gardening or greenhousing
Farming – livestock – chickens, rabbits, goats, bees, fish farming, turkey, hogs
Food canning & dehydration – pressure canning, dehydration of fruits and meats
HVAC – heating, venting, air conditioning and ventilation systems
Leatherwork - tanning to punching and sewing
Lumberjack – from falling trees through saw milling
Masonry – concrete flatwork, brick making, brick laying, poured walls
Medical – from EMT to MD, from bandages to surgery
Metal Working and welding
Mid wife – child birth is its own part of medicine
Plumbing – well, septic, indoor plumbing, outdoor plumbing, water filters, pumps
Security – systems, knowledge of tactics military and/or police
Seed Bank - storage of seeds for growing, hybrids, and open pollinated (heirloom)
Sewing - clothing making and repair, spinning, knitting, making cloth
Soap making – and all the things you will have to make from animals and plants
Survival Skills – wilderness skills in particular, living off the rough land
Veterinary Sciences – animal care, breeding
Wood working – everything beyond roughing; trim, cabinets, furniture
This of course is not a complete list. Looking down the curriculum of a trade school or technical college would be another good thing to do. Consider taking up at least one as a hobby or for self improvement. -Rourke (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/survivalretreat)
JWR Adds:
I'd recommend adding the following to Rourke's list:
Blacksmithing – Invaluable for repairs and fabrication of metal tools
and parts
Machining – Important for fabricating metal parts
Welding and Torch Cutting– Absolutely
invaluable for repairs and fabrication of metal parts
Rourke's article indirectly raises the issue of retreat group dynamics and the vagaries of human nature. I've seen some mistakes made when assembling retreat groups, most notably:
1.) Groups that end up with preponderance of doctors, lawyers, or firemen. This typically happens because a group founder recruits members from his close circle of friends--who all happen to be in the same profession or trade. This results in a group that lacks a good balance of skills.
2.) Groups that lack cohesive leadership. These generally turn into either philosophical debating societies or groups that spend most of their time arguing the finer points of Roberts Rules of Order. In either case, nothing gets done.
3.) Groups with either no discretionary money, or too much discretionary money. These both lead to absurdities. In the case of the former: Groups that don't have time to train together because the members are all working six days a week at minimum wage jobs. In the case of the latter: A group of mostly rich lawyers with an elaborate five year food supply and a bunch of expensive guns that they've never zeroed. Because they feel logistically "prepared" they don't bother with tactical training or to practice traditional skills. God forbid they should get their hands dirty.
4.) Groups that are have no religious common ground, or groups with so many shared common beliefs that they become dogmatic and intolerant of anyone who doesn't share their precise views on eschatology.
Dear James,
Recently I received an interesting catalog in the mail. It's from the Duluth
Trading Company, and they manufacture rugged outdoor clothing made of fire
hose material. http://www.DuluthTrading.com I
have not tried any of their products yet, however, I plan to in the future
and just wanted to share it with you
and your readers for your and their consideration.
I have a question for you too, if you don't mind. Why is a FMJ round more
desirable in combat than a Soft Point? My reasoning is that Soft Point ammo
expands more,
and creates a larger wound channel than a FMJ. That has been my observation
on deer taken with a .30-06 150 grain Winchester Silver Tip, for example. Thank
you.
Merry Christmas to you and Yours - D.O.T.
JWR Replies: In essence, I'm a believer for full metal jacket
(FMJ) ammunition for rifles, and premium jacketed hollow point (JHP) ammunition
for most handguns. Hollow
points are important for handguns because with their relatively low power (compared
to rifles), you need all of the expansion that you can get. FMJs are
important for rifles because you never know when you will be up against an
opponent that is
wearing body armor (it is increasingly popular with gang members) or that
is shooting at you from behind light cover.
Mr. Rawles,
First, I must say that greatly appreciate your website and the expertise that
you share. I am 21, and am trying to lead getting my family and close friends
prepared logistically for whatever may be coming down in the future. Your information
and suggestions are a time/money saver (and likely eventually a life saver.) "Patriots" is
an invaluable resource, and more can always be gleaned every time it is read.
Thank you!
I wanted to comment on the 45 ACP post from Dec. 20. I generally shy away from
handgun discussions because handguns are a mediocre weapon, and the discussions
are predictable. In my opinion, the Army Aviators story about the stopping power
of a .45 is really inconsequential. If he really did hit the enemy with all 29
rounds, then he didn't hit him COM. The 3 rounds of 45 ACP and the previous damage
from the 9mm is what dropped him. He wasn't dropped because the .45 is a "super
death ray gun", but is likely because of 3 aimed shots to a vital area.
To say the 3 aimed .45 slugs is better than 29 aimed 9mm slugs is not accurate.
To say that 3 aimed .45 slugs is better that 29 not-aimed shots would be more
accurate. It's just a thought, because I don't want to criticize, and I admire
his brave service in the army.
I appreciate and understand the fondness of the 'Warhorse' (I won't say 'old'
Warhorse. I have completed several KT Ordnance "80% Complete" Model
1911s with great success. (See: http://www.ktordnance.com/kto/index.php )
Although the process is very rewarding, I learned that my taste for expensive
parts (Smith&Alexander;
Ed Brown beavertails, sears, hammers, triggers; Kart barrels; Caspian slides...oh
it goes on) can really add up. There can be a lot said for understanding a weapons
mechanism and operation, and the 80% project is a good way to understand the
basics. I was continually humbled by the vastness of experience needed to successfully
do this as a profession.
For someone considering a 80% [KT Ordnance] 'build', I would say to set a budget
and not exceed it. A good 3 inch group gun can be put together for $500-$600,
and that is all that is really needed. A 1911 that shoots 1 inch or less is wonderful,
but reliability is second to none! I now prefer the 'abomination' called the
Glock. With a capacity of 13+1 .45 ACPs, it puts the odds back in the wielders
favor. The price is usually half that of a comparable 'value' 1911.
'A 9mm might expand but a 45 won't shrink'. True, however there are good reasons
for having a 9mm in a one's cache. First, it is so common. Ammunition is cheap.
There are loads available that have more foot-pounds energy than .45 ACP hardball
(but
comparing premium self defense loads to UMC ball isn't exactly a fair comparison).
The 9mm trumps the .38 Special snubby, especially if you look at the Glock 26.
The G26 is 10+1(compared to 5 shots in a snub nose), accepts high caps., and
the 9mm is more powerful than the 38. The 9mm may be more lady friendly, although
the .45 is mild enough to shoot that really anyone should be able to feel comfortable
with it(the .45 is much more mild than the 40 S&W which many female police
officers must shoot, once a year typically). Capacity is some what important,
although familiarity with tactical and emergency reloads is equally as important.
I did some 1911 work for a ex-SWAT and nationally known 3-gun guy, and he now
prefers a Glock 17 (9mm) because of it's capacity and his accomplished skill
with the sidearm he shoots 20,000 rounds a year with. It really shouldn't be
the first
choice if there is a .