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Letter Re: Nomex Flight Suits for Ground Troops in Iraq
Dear Mr Rawles,
Just wanted to thank you for SurvivalBlog, and I especially like the useful
tidbits from the troops overseas. I was a Navy Corpsman / combat advisor
with a Marine
[Corps] Police Transition Team (PTT) in Hadithah six months after the alleged
massacre, interesting times for sure.We got in-country in August 2006, and
the Nomex
suits were just catching on [with Marines]. We managed to snag a set for
each of our 10- man team.
The only real reg[ulation]s were that at Al Asad or any large Garrison type
Base they wanted you wearing camouflage [utilities], otherwise they fine
with
the
Nomex, the big deal [with IED flash
burns] was the synthetic Under Armor type shirts
that
are
great for staying dry and cool(er) but [in a flash fire] will melt to your
skin. the Uniforms weren't really the problem. I prefer the uniform especially
on patrol, it goes back to training, with my uniform I know where all the
pockets are, and most importantly I can wear a belt and not feel like I'm
wearing a dress.
I hit one IED in Hadithah, which means I was a lucky b****rd.,
I was in the
back [of the vehicle]. Two other [Marine]s got med-flighted out. We had been
totally engulfed in the blast and flames but no one got burned. Thanks again,
- Matt B.
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Letter Re: Advice on Stocking Up on Batteries
Sir;
I was wondering: How many batteries should I store for all my radios, flashlights,
smoke detectors, and so forth? I'm also planning to get night vision goggles,
soon. I assume rechargeables, right? If so, what kind [of rechargeables], and
who has
the
best prices? - T.E.
in
Memphis.
JWR Replies: I recommend buying mainly nickel metal hydride
(NiMH) batteries. Stock up plenty of them, including some extras for
barter and charity. Unlike the older Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) technology, NiMHs
do not have
a "memory" effect.
(The diminished capacity because of the memory effect has always been one
of the greatest drawbacks to NiCds batteries.) The best of the breed are the latest Low Self Discharge (LSD) variants, such as the Sanyo Eneloop.
One discount supplier with a
very good selection that I can enthusiastically recommend is All-Battery.com.
They
also have great prices on "throw away" batteries, such a lithium CR-123s.
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Where Was Moses When the Lights Went Out? by Chuck Fenwick, Medical Corps
The power grid is down… maybe forever
There are hundreds of scenarios which can cause the loss of electrical grid power.
These include everything from a faulty relay to a strategic EMP strike
that would precede a full scale nuclear war. There are, however, several inexpensive
things which can be done in preparedness that could make the difference between
life
and death. Before explaining, “exactly what to do”, there are a few
simple rules to keep in mind.
1) If you die, it’s your fault.
2) If you don’t have the gear, you will probably need it.
3) Be flexible. No battle plan survives first contact [with the enemy]
My wife and I live on 40 acres in southeastern Ohio near its border with West
Virginia . Our nearest neighbor is a mile away, so being prepared for emergencies
comes with the territory. Even though we have incoming electricity from rural
electric, it is not to be counted on and is notoriously intermittent. From the
beginning we installed solar panels, batteries and a generator as a primary energy
source with the co-op being the backup. Recently I took the solar panels and
inverters off line to upgrade the system. The job took a week and sure enough
[soon after
I disassembled the alternate power system] the
co-op
grid went down.
I decided that it was a good time to test out my emergency lighting by firing
up a kerosene lamp. I have propane lanterns, but I wanted to use the lamps to
see how well they function. I filled the lamp with some spiffy blue fuel and
lit the wick. After a few minutes the wick turned to ash. I looked at the label
of the spiffy blue odorless lamp oil and found that it was odorless because it
was
not kerosene. It was paraffin. I tried several different things to make it “wick” properly,
but the result was that eventually the wick would burn up. Great, my spiffy blue
fuel didn’t work. Doom on you Wal-Mart.
Well, I had flashlights and those propane lanterns, but I wanted to use something
cheap, like a candle. That’s right, [I had] no candles. Doom on you, Chuck.
Finally the electricity came back on and I turned off my propane lantern and
made a shopping list. I bought real K1 kerosene and 244 count 15 hour votive
candles with more matches and a package of butane lighters. I even tested the
15 hour candles and [determined that yes,] they really burn for 15 hours so I
now
have
3,645
hours
of
votive candle light available.
Light
Candles.
Buy some. Then buy some more. Store them with matches and/or butane lighters.
Any candle will do, however, votive candles are cheap when bought in boxes of
12 or more. 36 count, 15-hour votive candles will provide over 500 hours of light.
You can even cook with them and they do provide a little heat.
The good: Candles are cheap, EMP-proof, with a little effort a low tech society
can make them, they won't tip them over and spill fuel, their shelf-life is indefinite
and they are the most portable of all lights. They are EMP proof.
The bad: Their light (lumens) is low; they are useless in wind and rain unless
they are confined. Use caution. Candles are an open flame and
can start a fire. Stored in dampness, they are not waterproof because the wick
can absorb
moisture. [JWR Adds: Also, in the aftermath of an earthquake
or landslide, open flames are a bad idea because gas lines may have been broken.
My top choice for household emergency candles are Catholic devotional jar candles.
There are cylindrical glass jars, about 11 inches tall and 2.5 inches in diameter.
Like other votive candles, their candle wax is formulated for long burning. (A
formulation that is high in stearic acid.) Watch for these on sale at discount
stores. The paper labels can quickly and easily be removed by immersing them
in
water for an hour.]
Kerosene lanterns and lamps.
Lamps are the next step up from candles and should be in everyone’s home.
Most have a ribbon-like wick and some have two wicks. Others have a shaped burner
which will greatly magnify the burn surface, producing more light. They have
been used successfully for over a hundred years and some, like the Aladdin are
quite decorative and burn brightly.
Kerosene (K1)
A lamp uses fuel. The better fuel is Kerosene. Pure kerosene has a strong odor,
but refined kerosene like K1 has less odor and still wicks properly and burns
brightly. Another fuel is the odorless paraffin lamp fuel. It does not wick (climb
the wick from the reservoir) properly unless the reservoir is at least half full.
The good: Kerosene lamps are an excellent reading light compared to a candle.
They are fairly portable depending on the way they are designed, and are reasonably
inexpensive to operate. They are EMP proof.
The bad: Most are quite fragile because of the glass used in making the globe
or chimney. They can also spill their fuel creating a fire hazard.
Lanterns
Lanterns burn brightly because they have a mantle (something akin to a little
silk sock) which when lit produces a bright white light. Used mainly for camping
they are either powered by white gas or unleaded gas. Another type uses propane
gas that comes in a screw-on cylinder. The Coleman North Star has a much longer
mantle which produces more light and uses less fuel. It is a good idea to have
at least one of each type of lantern. [JWR Adds: The Aladdin
brand mantle lantern burns kerosene. All mantle lamps have very fragile mantles,
which are little more than a meshwork of ash after they have been burned for
the first time. Don't use mantle lanterns in any application where they will
be subjected to jarring or heavy vibration.]
The good: They are extremely bright, efficient and inexpensive. They are EMP
proof.
The bad: The liquid fuel has a limited shelf-life and if spilled is dangerous.
The propane fuel is explosive if it leaks. The lanterns are quite noisy making
an escaping air sound.
Flashlights
Flashlights come in numerous sizes, shapes and brightness. Some can be recharged
from an outlet, some require replacement batteries. There are even wind-up and
shake-up powered flashlights. A flashlight is absolutely essential for the home,
car or when camping. Two notable hand-held lights are the MagLite and the Surefire.
The MagLite most used is the one like a policeman carries. It has a large adjustable
beam and the MagLite bulb has a long life span. The Surefire comes in several
sizes too, but the Surefire L2 Digital LumaMax LED is surprisingly bright. The
L2 uses lithium batteries which have a shelf-life of several years.
The good: Flashlights are a time-tested life saver.
The bad: Good flashlights can be expensive and battery replacement can be costly.
The LumaMax is not EMP proof.
PS: There are dozens of different types of flashlights. There are headlamps and
lights that attach to the belt. Some are made for mounting on the barrel of a
gun and ones that divers use. I only named two different types. There are stores
on the Internet that specialize in flashlights. Do some research and choose a
couple of different types that would suit you and your lifestyle. - Chuck Fenwick, Medical Corps
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Letter Re: Ropes and Knot Tying
Mr. Rawles,
I'm an avid reader of your blog, and have found it most helpful in a variety
of ways. However, I have noticed a slight deficiency: there is little mention
of ropes and knots.
Rope is an incredibly useful thing, both in everyday life and in a SHTF situation:
it can be used in combination with a tarp and two trees to construct a makeshift
shelter, can lift or pull objects, can secure objects to prevent them from moving, it can make snares and traps to
catch food, and so on. One can even tie their shoes!
However, when tied with clumsy or inadequate knots, rope can be incredibly
dangerous. The common square knot can fail if sideways (relative to the length
of the rope) tension is applied to one of the working ("free") ends.
Certain knots can weaken rope['s breaking strength] by more than 40%, which
can be a dangerous condition in and of itself.
For light duty (tent cord, tying things down, etc.), military-style 550 [nylon
parachute] cord is incredibly useful. For heavier load-bearing uses, one should
use a suitable
rope.
As always, the Wikipedia
has useful links and information for tying different knots.
Bookstores sell books describing hundreds of knots and their uses. As always,
having paper books on hand is more useful in a SHTF situation than computer
files. Sincerely, - Pete S.
JWR Replies: Thanks for mentioning that. I have provided
a couple of links to knot tying web sites in the past --such as this site
that shows you exactly how they're done (they show
examples of around 75 specific knots) via clearly photographed animations.
One item that bears special
mention is the rappelling
carabiner. Commonly just called a "biner"--and called
a "snap
link" by
the US military--these have umpteen uses for attaching/lifting/slinging/securing
loads and acting
like a pulley (or
providing greater rope friction by adding multiple coils of rope, which of
course relates to their originally-intended purpose for rappelling. I recommend
buying
a half-dozen
(or more), with
at least two of them
with
thumb screw-type locking gates.OBTW, avoid the
flimsy pseudo-carbiners that are sold as key ring holders. (Thankfully, nowadays
most of these are stamped "Not for Climbing Use".) We keep several carabiner
in our ATV's
cargo bag, along with a 150 foot coil of rope, and a
pair of Jumar
ascenders. When used in conjunction with our ATV's electric winch, this gear
has
proved immensely useful for tasks around the ranch, and particularly when packing
big
game
uphill.
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Getting from Point A to Point B, by E.I.D.
You’ve got your Bug Out Bags (BOBs) all packed. You’ve prepped
your house for
whatever reason you’re leaving. You’ve made contact with what family
you could, and you trust the rest to meet you at your designated meeting place,
whether it’s your retreat or just a spot along the way where your two paths
converge. Everything is set. Or is it? Points A and B are ready, but how do you
plan to make the trek between them?
Walking is always an option, but probably a last resort. Most people aren’t
in good enough shape to walk ten miles, let alone 100 and over the course of
a few days. Cramps and blisters become unbearable, and joints seize up. Adverse
weather, whether hot or cold, can become lethal. Other humans (travelers, police,
military) can be dangers, and so can feral and wild animals. Not to mention,
you can only bring what you can carry. Walk if you must, but don’t let
it be plan A. In fact, keep it at plan D or further.
A bike is a good option, but again, requires some level of fitness. Bikes can
be fitted with cargo containers on the front and back (as well as new packs that
strap to the frame), and thus allow you to carry more than you could on foot.
However, a bike presents a new group of possible problems that must be addressed,
and therefore you should always attach the following to your bike frame or in
an attached pack or basket: a tire pump (foot pumps are best as they are smaller),
a tire patch-kit, a small can of leak-stop, and tools to reset the chain should
it pop loose. Reflectors and a headlight for your bike is a must for night-riding,
and some are available that are powered by your pedaling, much like a hand-cranked
flashlight. Otherwise, pack extra batteries. There are solid foam rubber inner
tubes that will eliminate your need for a patch kit, but there are many mixed
reviews on these tubes, because they tend to also decrease energy efficiency.
A mountain bike will allow you to ride off-road should the need arise, but again,
you lose energy efficiency over a road bike. If you’re in excellent shape,
efficiency might not be as big an issue for you – likewise if you’re
not too far from your retreat. Take all this into consideration. A bike with
multiple gears is better for energy efficiency, but it also presents more moving
parts which can break along the way. To maximize your chances of making it on
a bike, fitting your bike with a small gasoline powered engine is best.
These small gasoline engines turn your bike into a virtual moped. You get up
to speed by pedaling and then engage the engine. These engines can get up to
250 miles per gallon going 25 mph on flat road. Unfortunately, they may only
hold a gallon of gas. However, you can easily fit a 2 gallon jerry can (or jug,
if you’re in a hurry) of gasoline in the back basket of your bike, and
refill along the way, if your destination is further than 250 miles. You might
say “motorcycles get good miles per gallon too” and you would be
right, but they also require a lot more investment and maintenance than a bike,
and aren’t as easily strapped to the back of a larger vehicle. If you’re
considering buying one, ask yourself “Do I want a motorcycle because it’s
a practical form of transportation, or because I think its cool?” I would
ask you to reconsider and look into a newer-model moped. They can go fast enough
for practical purposes, get great miles per gallon, and if they break down, they
simply turn into a bicycle! I call that insurance. Unlike a motorcycle, you can
carry
a moped across otherwise impassable obstacles (such as streams or deep
mud),
and
if you crash, you don’t have to worry about it crushing you. Mopeds get
100-150 miles per gallon, and most only hold a gallon of gas. Is your bug-out
site 100 to 150 miles away? If not, can you easily and safely carry enough gas
to make up the difference? If not, how far will you be pedaling the moped after
it runs out, and on what kind of terrain? You can always pedal in the straight-aways
and down-hills, saving your gas for the difficult stretches, but this is still
not your best option, obviously. Ideally, you want an automobile.
An automobile is something you don’t want to be without in a bug-out scenario,
if you can help it. Most of us have vehicles, but not every vehicle is created
equal. However, I’m not going to discuss what vehicles are the best, because
not many of you are going to go out and buy a new vehicle to prepare for an arguably
improbable contingency, and anyway, plenty of good articles already exist on
the subject of bug-out vehicles. Any vehicle is better than no vehicle, but there
are things you can do to your existing vehicle
to make it not
only
better
prepared
for bugging out, but also better prepared for everyday life.
First, how many miles per gallon does your car/truck get? What size is the fuel
tank? Multiply your MPG by the size of your tank, and that’s how far you’re
going to get before your car becomes nothing more than a metal tent. For example,
my car gets 24 MPG on average, and I have a 15 gallon tank. That means I can
probably drive about 360 miles, but that’s going to vary depending on weather,
wind, temperature, terrain and even how much I’ve packed. I recently spent
a minor amount of money on a tune-up, lube, tire-rotation, and a few small items
that improve my vehicle’s MPG. These included a fuel magnetizer, a performance
chip, and an air-intake insert. Each item is supposed to improve MPG by about
2, but in reality, they might raise my MPG to 25 or 26. Still that would extend
my viable mileage to roughly 390 miles. That’s an extra 30 miles on the
same tank of gas, and that’s nothing to scoff at! Don’t you think
that’s worth it? [JWR Adds: Magnetic "fuel economy" devices have been tested extensively by Popular Science magazine (and others), and have been proven to have no effectiveness. Don't bother.] In the meantime, with rising fuel prices, you’ll
be saving gas and money… so why wouldn’t you invest in these things?
There is more I can do, as well, including getting a better air filter, keeping
my tires at the correct pressure, using a fuel-additive, keeping my tires aligned,
and practicing my “light-foot” driving, meaning attempting to keep
my RPMs
at a low constant while driving. There are probably body modifications that will
improve airflow, and replacement parts that will perform more efficiently
than the stock parts currently under my hood. All of these are sound investments
during the current fuel crisis, even if you never have to bug out. Perhaps a
more automotively informed reader can compile a list of these parts and modifications – I,
on the other hand, will merely encourage you to seek them out and invest in them.
However, we are assuming that gas stations will either sell-out, close, or be
so inundated with customers after a crisis that you’ll have to rely on
a single tank of gas. If you don’t think this is realistic, just look back
at what happened on 9-11. People sprinted to the pumps so fast that many stations
ran out, had lines around the block, or, in the case of a certain establishment
in my home town, raised prices 300% and illegally reaped the benefits of the
panic. If that happens, and you’ve only got a quarter tank, it doesn’t
matter what your MPG is, as you’re only going to be able to go 1/2 of your
total distance. You can avoid this by filling up your tank more often. You’ll
pay the same amount, but in smaller portions and more often. Try filling up every
time you get to half a tank, and then eventually every time you get down to 3/4
of a tank. You may find that you prefer it, as it doesn’t feel like you’re
just dropping fifty bucks into your fuel-tank. You’ll also rest easy knowing
you can easily drive nearly your vehicle's full range at a moment’s notice.
If you have a gas can at home for fueling the mower, keep it full as well. Fill
it every time you see gas prices drop, and tell yourself you’re just saving
money by stocking up while the prices are low. If you suddenly have to leave,
you can use rope or bungee cables to strap the gas can to the luggage rack atop
your car, or throw it in the bed of your truck. Try to avoid putting it inside
the car with you, as this is very dangerous on many levels, but if you have
to,
you can put it in the trunk as a last resort. Be sure to open the trunk every
so often to allow any possible fumes to dissipate (or open the windows if you
keep it inside the cab), and pour it into the main tank as soon as the tank will
take it, rather than waiting until you run out.
What about the other problems
that are possible with an automobile? In order to build a list of priorities,
first ask yourself “What could happen to
my car that would make it impossible for me to drive it?” Then, go down
the list and say “Which of these things has ever happened to me? Which
have happened to people I know? Which are probable? Which can I possibly prepare
for and fix on the road?” For example, you simply can’t prepare
for total engine failure, brake failure, transmission failure, a broken axel,
etc… unless
you perceive these as likely problems with your specific automobile, in which
case you should get them fixed before an emergency occurs, because problems
like this are next to impossible to fix in the field (for an average Joe like
me,
anyway).
What
common problems can you prepare for? Easy ones include: flat tires, blown
fuses, low fluids, dead battery, burned out lights, leaky hoses and low fuel
(which we’ve already discussed).
Preparing for these problems will allow you to save yourself from the hassle
and cost of towing your vehicle, and possibly even the cost of taking it to
a mechanic, depending on the severity of the problem and the quality of your
repair.
Obviously, some problems will have to be addressed by a mechanic, but a quick
fix on your part can get you out of a sticky situation. For example, if you
break down on a small highway outside a small town and there aren’t any mechanics
open on Sunday, then you’re faced with either paying a huge towing fee,
or spending the night in said small town until the next day, at which time the
mechanic will surely overcharge you because you’re a know-nothing townie
who’ll never be back that way again. It’s not like you’ll have
many options at that point.
To begin, ascertain the current qualities of your car regarding its current
equipment and space for additional storage of emergency supplies. Does your
car have a
spare tire? Is it a full size tire or a donut? If at all possible, you should
have a full size spare. Next time you get your tires replaced, have the one
in best condition placed in your trunk as your spare, or purchase a cheap refurbished
tire for the same purpose. Give the donut to the mechanic for a discount. A
full
sized spare will allow you to carry on as before after changing a flat, unlike
a donut which will require you to drive slowly and avoid adverse terrain. If
you can’t fit a full sized spare in your car, then consider repairing the
flat with a patch kit. A patch/plug kit is cheap, easy to use, but will also
require the purchase of a tire pump. Small electric pumps can be purchased that
will plug into your cigarette lighter and take up very little space. If you don’t
like to rely on your car battery, you can get chargeable emergency-starter/air-compressor
combo units that work great, or you can simply pack a bicycle foot pump (yes,
it will take a while to fill a car tire with it, but that’s what they did
in the old days, and you’ll do what you have to do when the need arises). “Where
should I keep all this stuff!?” you ask.
Does your car have extra cargo storage in the spare tire compartment, in or
around the spare? Are there other side compartments in the trunk? Drivers of
trucks
won’t need to worry about this, and should merely get a metal truck-toolbox,
plastic toolbox, or cargo box to store their supplies in. If you don’t
have storage space, a smaller cargo box can also be purchased (or built) to fit
in your trunk. I would suggest including the following in that box:
1. Non-electronic tire gauge
2. Extra fuses
3. Roll of duct tape for securing a cracked window or fixing a leaky hose (or
a million other things)
4. Hand crank LED flashlight
(or standard bright light and extra lithium batteries)
5. Jumper cables
6. Tire plug/patch kit
7. Small electric air compressor, or a foot-pump, if you’re a hoss
8. A couple extra head/tail light bulbs
9. Small bottles of replacement fluids (oil, coolant, power-steering fluid
with leak-stop, transmission fluid)
10. A couple of rags
11. Lock de-icer (which does you no good if you leave it in the car during
a freeze. If you suspect cold weather and a possible freeze, keep it outside
the
car.
12. Some strong rope. How much? Enough to tie your trunk down, tie something
to the luggage rack, or tie to the car to pull and dislodge it if stuck.
13. A fuel siphon hose and pump (inertial pumps are cheap and work well)
14. Bungee cords
If there’s room, you could also put your car-BOB in this box. You should
also keep the following in the glove box: an electronic tire gauge, a small
flashlight, an ice scraper, and a solid multi-tool with a knife blade. The
pliers-style multi-tools
are best, as they can be used to break out the car windows in an emergency.
Just grip the pliers’ handles together, holding them upside down, and
smash the nose end of the pliers against the window with a hammer-fist motion.
The
localized force should make short work of the window, though repeated blows
in the same spot might be necessary.
Everyone should also keep wet-naps and napkins in their glove-box, as they’re
not only useful for everyday cleaning, but also for limited first aid applications:
clean the wound with a wet-nap, cover it with a few tightly folded napkins,
and hold this down with some duct tape from the trunk. I also suggest that
everyone
put a magnetic key-box under their car with a spare key in it, because your
fancy keyless entry is worthless when its attached to your keychain…and
you lose your keys or lock them in your car. Don’t put the magnetic key-box
in an easily visible and accessible spot where any Joe can look under
your car
and see it, but in a safe, inconspicuous spot such as on the top surface of
an exposed portion of the frame or any metal component, between the gas tank
and
gas tank shield (if your car has one), or under/behind a bumper. If Joe is
looking for a key-stash, he’s likely moving quickly. He’s going
to look under many cars, quickly, until he finds an easy target, or a car with
an easily seen
and easily accessible key-box.
There are a few optional tools you might consider to further your preparedness,
the most logical and pragmatic of which is the battery jump-starter. They aren’t
cheap, but they aren’t expensive either, and depending on the environment
and circumstances in which your battery dies, you may either not see another
passerby or you may not want to see another passerby. A dead battery is one
of those problems that require a second, working battery in order to give it
life.
In place of a second, running vehicle driven by a stranger, you can purchase
a battery jump-starter. Most will simply plug into your cigarette lighter or
home wall socket until charged, and in the event of a dead battery, will jumpstart
the car. Most also have sockets to run electrical appliances for a short time,
such as your electric tire compressor, if your car’s electrical systems
fail. In older cars, this is no big deal, as the car will still run with a
dead battery or bad wiring (as long as you can jump-start it). I once had a
car in
which the electrical systems fried while I was driving. Everything electrical
shut off, and smoke poured out of the dash and from under the hood. However,
the car was already running, and I easily drove it across town to the mechanic
(with the windows down). In newer cars, where the engine and electrical systems
are interdependent, an electrical failure could mean that your car isn’t
going anywhere. Many of the higher-end battery jump-starters actually have
air-compressors, lanterns, and even radios built right in. That way, you can
save money and cargo
space by consolidating.
Another practical device to have on hand is a handheld CB radio. I have one
that fits into a box about the size of a bible and plugs into the cigarette
lighter.
There’s a magnetic antenna that you put up on the roof, and then you’ve
got instant communication. This is a good option for maintaining communication
while traveling with other cars in case your cell phone either loses service
or runs out of power. I’ve personally used it during a traffic jam to
listen in on the truckers as they informed one another on the situation. It
can also
be used to ask other unknown drivers for directions, stop suggestions, and
even to call for help in the event of an emergency. It’s also good, in
addition to the poncho and cold weather gear undoubtedly already in your BOB,
to keep
a good pair of athletic shoes in the car. If you are forced out on your bike
or on foot, you don’t want to be stuck wearing the dress shoes you had
on at work when you were forced to flee.
So, what’s the best practical option for bugging out? Max out your vehicle’s
MPG, equip it with a BOB and an emergency box, buy a bike rack for the back
of your vehicle, buy a good bike and equip it with cargo baskets, an emergency
repair pack and a small gasoline moped-motor, buy a large gas can and a small
gas can and keep them full in your tool shed. Ride the bike when running short
errands to stay in shape. Use the moped motor on your bike to run medium range
errands, pedal when you can to stay in shape, and bring the groceries home
in the cargo baskets. Drive your car on long errands and save money because
you
maxed out the MPG. Put your bike on your vehicle’s bike rack and take
it with you on long trips; ride your bike around the downtown area of wherever
you’re
going, or perhaps just from the hotel to the nearby restaurant. Save Gas. Stay
in shape. Have fun. Can you argue with any of that? Can you!?
Boom. The Schumer hits the fan. You’ve got to get outta town. No problem,
your gas tank is 1/2 full. You top it off with your large gas can, and put
the remainder in your bike’s moped-motor. You attach the bike to the
bike-rack and bungee the small gas can into its cargo basket. You load up and
you’re
on your way. You have a flat outside of town. No problem, you change the tire
and you’re on your way… or you would be, but the car won’t
start. No problem, you use your battery jump-starter and you’re on your
way. You have another flat. Son of a… no problem, you patch the hole
with your patch kit, air up the tire with your small electric compressor, and
you’re
on your way. The car starts to overheat. No problem, you refill the coolant,
turn on the heater, open the windows and you’re on your way. You stop
make a quick stop the urinate by the roadside…oh wait, you locked your
keys in your car. No problem, you’ve got a spare hidden under the back
bumper, and you’re on your way. You’re getting pretty low on gas,
so you go ahead and pour your small gas can into the car’s tank. A while
later, you’re getting low again, but before you can do anything about
it, you look up from the gas gauge in time to see a sedan stalled in the middle
of the
road. Too late.
You smash into it, totaling your car. You have a gash on your left arm from
the window, but otherwise, you’re okay. The seatbelt won’t unbuckle,
so you get your multi-tool from the glove box and cut it. You also bandage
the gash on your arm with napkins and duct tape. You can do a better job later
with
the med-kit in your BOB. The car’s power is still on, so you plug
in your CB and
check all channels. Nothing. No problem, you top off the charge of
your battery jump-starter using the car’s battery, and load it and your
CB into the cargo basket of your bike. You use your hose and pump to siphon
the fuel from your car into the small gas can. You try to do the same to the
sedan,
but it’s got a valve in the fuel intake preventing you from doing so.
No problem, you check to make sure the sedan’s engine is cool, and then
use your knife and cut the fuel line. Being careful to avoid the initial spray,
you
drain what you can into the small gas can, and bungee it into your bike’s
other cargo basket. You plug your CB into the jump-starter and set it on scan.
You strap your BOB onto your back [or mo-ped cargo rack] and your athletic
shoes on your feet, and start pedaling down the road, saving the motor for
when you
get tired.
Eventually, you do get tired, and you ride a few hours on the motor. A day
or so later, and you’re out of gas. Luckily, you can still siphon fuel from
any abandoned vehicles you find, or walk the bike up the hills and then jump
on and coast down the other side. Eventually, you make it to your destination.
No, obviously not all of these problems would occur in such rapid succession.
Maybe none of them would, or perhaps one or two… or maybe more. This
story illustrates, however, how a little planning can prepare you for any combination
of likely problems that stand between you and your destination. You never know
when a problem will occur or and what problem it will be, and spending a little
money now on things that will benefit you regardless in the meantime
will save you from uttering the following words in a real emergency: “Aw
crud… if
only I had…”
« Letter Re: Retreat Livestock Guardians |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Horse Breeding Now, and in the Future
Jim,
I wanted your opinion on something. I raise Quarter horses, mostly show prospects
and have done this for a lifetime. I own the stallion, I do the breeding of
my own mares and ship [straws of frozen] semen all over the country for others.
I also train outside horses for a living. As you well know the horse economy
like everything else
is going down the tubes. I have been down sizing for the past three years as
the Holy Spirit has prompted [my string] going [down] from 60 to 30. I did
not breed any of my mares back this year and my focus is continuing to downsize.
I know the job these horses were bred for is no longer going to be available.
They will be needing a new job. My question to you is, do you think there would
be a market through SurvivalBlog for any of my stock? I breed for good minds,
great bones and of course movement (which I understand would not matter to
a survivalist) disposition and beauty. These are hearty horses, I believe they
could make great work horses, pack horses or just about anything you asked
them to be. I think the catch for the horses I would have available would be
the fact that some are untrained 2 and 3 year olds. I'm madly working on breaking
this last big group, but I can only ride so many a day.
It is just a passing idea. This
is my web site if you want to take a peek at what I have. Thanks for your
time and honesty. God Bless, - Merry
JWR Replies: In the short term, it might be a good idea to
reduce your breeding stock, but in the long term, your brood mares may make
you wealthy. I'm sure that some SurvivalBlog readers will be contacting you,
particularly looking for mares.
One of the biggest concerns for horse owners, at present, is the high price
of feed. The global grain shortage has pushed up feed prices tremendously.
Because grain prices will remain high, I expect hay prices to stay high, in
sympathy. (Markets are all about supply and demand.) It didn't help that last
spring and summer were dry in the western US, and most hay growers only got
one marketable cutting. This pushed hay prices up to insane prices. This prompted
many cattlemen and horse breeders to thin their herds.
In the long term, however, high fuel prices and spot shortages will likely
cause a resurgent interest in working horses. This is most likely in regions
with lush pasture and plentiful hay. In the arid west, where hay is a product
of circular irrigation, working horses probably won't make quite so strong
a comeback.
In a post-Peak
Oil collapse, horse breeding stock--for both draft horses and saddle
horses--would be like gold.
My advice: If you don't have extensive pastures and own your own hay ground
and hence buy a lot of hay each year, then thin your string of brood mares
down to just your very best couple of dozen, for the next few years. However, maintain
your ranch infrastructure, so that you can "ramp up" to
larger production, if need be. Do not sell off any pasture ground, hay ground,
stock panels, or haying equipment! Also, hang on to every saddle and piece
of tack that you own. In fact, if you have the chance to buy more tack (as
the horse market continues to crash), and you have a secure storage space that
will keep it safe from mold and mice, then invest in more tack.
Doing so will take advantage of the fire sale prices on tack that we will no
doubt see for the next few years. To
amplify on our previous exchange of e-mail: You
can breed horses, but you can't breed tack. In a few years, all those
new horse buyers will be screaming for saddles and tack! Buy low and sell high.
One ironic situation we may see in the next decade: All over rural America,
there are antique horse-drawn hay mowers that are now rusting away as yard
ornaments. I predict that many of them will be oiled up and pressed into service.
Hopefully, they won't be too far gone.
« Letter Re: Silver Coins Holding Their Own Against Inflation |Main| Note from JWR: »
Camping Trips as Training for WTSHTF, by DPM
In the times that may soon be upon us, we may need to live
in a way we are not accustomed to or prepared for. I suggest camping as a method
of acclimatization to those circumstances. My brother and I are avid campers.
Usually getting up to higher elevations, at
least 25 times a year. These are often not just overnighters but from two days
to up to a week. My personal best year was 32 camping trips from mid February
to as late as
November,
including a full week as a vacation. I have gotten too much sun on Saturday
and snowed on, on Sunday of the same weekend. I have seen weekends when it
rained the entire time, which limited some activities, to temps that were higher
than average or expected. We reside in a desert valley, so I am conditioned
to it.
On each of these occasions, I have been prepared with what I brought along.
On several occasions we have invited friends, stating beforehand that they
need to be prepared and put some thought into what they might need. It never
fails that someone doesn't bring something that they needed. This was the case
one very rainy weekend, when my brother and I fashioned ponchos out of large
trash bags
that
I always have in my pack and in my truck. They can be used for a multitude
of purposes, including (among others) caching water, distilling, as slings,
for shelter and the aforementioned ponchos. Live and learn. I hope it was
a learning experience
for
my friends.
Although
neither
has asked to come along again.
We do what I call vehicle camping, meaning we carry and have everything we
need in our vehicles.
My vehicle is a 1981 Bronco, and my brother's
vehicle is a 1989 Bronco II . Both have V-6 engines and have manual transmissions.
The vehicles are used as the base for our camp, sleeping, hygiene, cooking
and
entertainment
centers. The only thing we don't use our vehicles for is sanitation. We set
this up away from camp and always dispose of waste properly.
I have everything [needed for camping] in my vehicle at all times and is not
excessive. It includes tools, camp equipment, some recovery equipment that
doubles as camp
tools and
some spare parts. The spar parts includes a spare battery that also provides
the juice for watching television on
Saturday night. (Hey, you have to have something to do when the sun goes down.)
With practice and trial and error you will decide what you need, what you
don’t and what is excess weight. It is all packed and squared away safely
and is easy to get out and repack. I try to always have the gas tank and propane
as full as possible, and my vehicle stocked with food and water, and for the
most part is ready to go at all times.
We use the excuse to camp to actually practice living in situations when you
may not have all the conveniences of home. We especially use the chance to
practice our skills. You would be surprised how difficult it can be to start
and maintain a fire in inclement weather. Not to mention
that you have to find wood , drag it back to camp and chop it. I don’t
mean with a chainsaw, I mean chop it into reasonable size logs for the fire,
with an axe. Enough to maintain a fire for your stay (fire cautions notwithstanding)
, may it be week or a month or longer. Whether it is for ambience, cooking
or to heat water for those dirty dishes and for washing oneself. You also
get to appreciate how they used to do it. Too big a fire and you consume too
much wood, not stoked enough and it goes out, requiring extra effort to restart
it. As an aside, I have completely covered my fire with dirt and returned five
days later and used the coals underneath to restart my fire.
As well as having fun, we incorporate some skill building into our outings.
My brother and I will pick features from the map and navigate to and from them
using the map and compass. In the beginning , I will admit having to break
out the GPS to return to camp. But it was a learning experience, and has not
been used since. During these day hikes, we take our day packs with water and
the other 10 essentials, as well as other items that might be needed just in
case. And of course a weapon.
During these hikes , you will find out about your physical condition, if your
boots will hold up and how important the right pair of socks can be. In hiking
in the snow, you can see if your boots are really water resistant or waterproof
and how important keeping your feet warm and dry is. Also you will find out
how difficult it is to hike in snow at altitude. How to dress in layers and
learn to pace yourself to prevent perspiring, which can have detrimental effects
if allowed to cool and you are not at your destination.
On other occasions we have practiced camouflage and concealment, and built
lean tos, using the features found around us, rocks branches, crevices and
ravines,
depending on weather outlook.
While on hikes we observe and take note of natural features, wildlife, practice
tracking, finding small game, finding water sources and identifying plants.
On other occasions have hunted small game, which is in season. On a couple
of occasions , we have even played an “adult “version of hide and
seek Something , a couple of friends didn’t entirely understand. The
purpose was to learn to track and locate and observe others, while avoiding
detection. It might come in handy.
If the hunting of small game was successful, we have cleaned and prepared the
animal for consumption, when returning to camp.
Rabbits, squirrels and birds all require different preparation, with some
similarities. Knowing how to dress and prepare game is a very useful skill.
It is something I have done frequently. In all of these outings, we have never
gotten ill or sick from these activities. Camp sanitation is a mandatory practice.
During your outings, you will get to know your equipment , how to keep the
knives and axes and hatchets sharp, how lanterns and stoves work and light,
which is why I now use propane . Nothing is more frustrating than trying to
work with an uncooperative kerosene stove or lantern, which has led to a new
game, “the camp equipment toss” which is an accumulation of points
for height and distance. All in fun, we retrieve the discarded item and dispose
of it properly. But the underlying theme is to know that your equipment works,
and what can go wrong. Just have a backup plan, remember the fire?
In all of our outings we have practiced maintaining a sanitary camp, such as
digging a waste pit, washing up after “going for a walk” after
breakfast. Washing dishes in hot water. Using caution when preparing small
game or cooking, to prevent cross contamination. Discarding of trash in bags
brought with us, I don’t like burning trash, but in an extended stay
or emergency , I would . We have never gotten ill or spread anything despite
of our primitive conditions.
We also practice safety, being careful while using and sharpening knives, axes
and even can openers, a cut can easily get infected in primitive conditions.
Other things such as keeping the camp uncluttered, not consuming to much alcohol
and watching where you step at night, past the illumination of the camp lantern.
For the most part , we sleep in our vehicles, even having the comfort of an
air mattress and a 0 degree [Fahrenheit] sleeping bag. It cuts down on having
to carry around the weight of a tent.
I have a system of tarps and bungees which I fasten over my truck for sealing
up at night. One for closing up the rear of the vehicle and one for making
a canopy with a couple of discarded three-section poles from another canopy,
and rope & stakes. This keeps me and the kitchen area out of the elements,
and
has been tested in the wind and rain with success.
I have camped at 9,000 feet and as low as 4,000 feet elevation. I am prepared
for and have dealt with many weather conditions. We mostly stay at higher elevations
in the summer and lower elevations in the winter depending on road closures
and access.
It is always an enjoyable experience and makes us really appreciate the amenities
of running water, electricity, and of course flushing toilets. For the most
part , these trips are for pleasure, but have also been preparation and training
courses. Each time , we learn something new or brush up on existing knowledge
and skills.
There was also an occasion recently when a transformer in a local substation
let go and placed the neighborhood in darkness. You could see the occasional
flashlight bouncing around as neighbors checked to see what happened, but I
went to my truck and broke out the camping lantern and lit up the whole back
yard and patio. It was a pleasant evening and I was on the patio anyway.
I am sure I did not touch on some activities that others would deem necessary,
just what I have done on past outings. The important thing is to have fun and
enjoy the outdoors and use it as preparation and familiarization with conditions
you will encounter in most places outside the city lights, and possibly conditions
likely to happen if TSHTF.
« Two Letters Re: Homemade Alcohol Stoves |Main| The Hedges Get Trimmed »
Front Sight's New "Get a Gun" Training and Gear Offer
Front Sight has been a SurvivalBlog advertiser for nearly as long as I have
been writing the blog. The Memsahib and I have both attended four-day courses
at Front Sight, and we can attest that the training there is absolutely top
notch. We were both very impressed with the world class quality of the instruction
and the quiet professionalism of the instructors. The Front Sight experience
is hard to put into words. You really need to experience it for yourself.
To
be prepared for the potentially dark days ahead, I highly
recommend that
at
least
one
member
of
your family attend Front Sight, and then come home and cross-train the rest
of the family. Owning a gun doesn't make you "shooter" any more than owning
a surf
board makes your a "surfer". Training is crucial. When
the Schumer hits the fan,
you
need to be confident and competent with firearms. That only comes
with proper training and regular practice. The bottom line: Get the best training
available. And that is exactly what you will receive at Front Sight.
You might have noticed that there are now two ads for Front Sight
in our scrolling
ads.
The
new ad
is for
their
very
generous "Get
a Gun" training
and gear package offer. This is their biggest promotion ever, and it includes
so
much
free
gear that you would be crazy to to not take advantage of it. This offer
includes all of the following:
Four
Day Defensive Handgun Course ($2,000 Value),
30 State (One Day) CCW course
($500
Value),
Seven
Dry Practice
Manuals
($280
Value),
Limited
Edition
Stainless Steel Folding Knife with Front Sight Logo ($300 Value),
Front Sight Armorer's Bench Mat ($40 Value),
Front Sight "Any Gun Will
Do-- If You Will Do!" Shirt ($30 Value),
Front Sight logo hat ($20 Value),
Front Sight Instructor Belt, Holster, Mag Pouch, Flashlight Pouch and Flashlight
($230 Value),
and, your choice of a brand new in-the-box, Springfield
Armory XD Pistol in 9mm, or .40 S&W or .45 ACP (a $600 value.) Needless to
say, I suggest getting the
.45 ACP variant.
I highly recommend Front Sight's training. Again, it is truly world class. Their
new "Get
a Gun" offer is an amazing 4-to-1 "exchange in abundance." If
up 'til now you've been hesitating about taking a course at Front Sight, then
by all means quit hesitating, and take
advantage of this offer. It is a genuine bargain!
OBTW, if you have any questions about this offer, feel free to e-mail me.
If I can't answer one of your questions, then I will get a answer from Front
Sight.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Family Learning for Preparedness, by T.D. »
Letter Re: Advice on Purchasing Priorities For a Tight Budget
Mr. Rawles,
Hello again! Hope you and your family are doing well. I have had some questions
on my mind lately, and was curious if you would mind helping me. (I know you
must
be tremendously busy with our "strong" economy!). My wife and I are
both college students in Santa Cruz, California, and we have a very limited amount
of
storage space and limited income. Are there any tricks or pieces of advice you
have
for individuals like ourselves? I recently spent my tax refund on some firearms
(which
were from
a federal firearms dealer :-[ ) and now I was curious about the next step. I
contacted "Wiggy's" from your web site about some sleeping bags, but
feel like a water filter would be a better investment at the moment. Thanks
for your time!
OBTW, I feel like California is turning into a commune, I literally have
less freedoms than I had recently thought. - V. from California
JWR Replies: Given the mild climate on the California coast,
a water filter is much more important than cold weather gear for your next
purchase. I recommend the American-made Aqua Rain brand. These are similar
to the Big Berkey
(imported
from England),
but they only cost half as much. (The US Dollar's recent slip versus the British
Pound
has sadly further widened this price gap.) Please compare prices with our advertisers
such as Safecastle, JRH
Enterprises, and
Ready
Made Resources,
before buying
elsewhere. Next, consider buying from our affiliate advertisers like
Lehman's and
Nitro-Pak.
OBTW, if you contact any of our advertisers, then please mention where you
saw their ad. Thanks!
« Letter Re: Consider Volunteering at a Homeless Shelter |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Alternative News Sources When The Grid Goes Down
James
In the early 1990s--before Internet was ubiquitous--I remember a well-connected
VHF packet
remailer network that was nearly on par with the old Fidonet dial up network.
Unfortunately while many hams played with packet 15 years ago, the complex
mailbox routing networks are now mostly replaced by the Internet. I don't expect
any data network resembling the Internet to evolve if the grid goes down. This
is not to say that local networks using sound card data modems on CB or FRS radio
or with Wi-Fi gear
might not spring up, but it would be a low priority in both electricity and
time.
HF amateur radio and shortwave radio will be the way to get your world news
if the grid goes down. Buy a radio that will receive upper and lower sideband
(USB/LSB) or you will be limited to megawatt commercial AM stations. (SSB is
used by the power poor.) Set up a proper antenna length for the band you are
listening
to, an antenna tuner is not good enough. Even if people do not want to obtain
their amateur licence it is advisable that they obtain PSK-31
sound card software and a connector cable to decode low power PSK data signals.
PSK-31is nearly
as good as Morse code for punching through noise, much better than voice mode.
For those operating out of a backpack look at this
PSK terminal device. No laptop needed!
Amateur satellite (AmSat)
is fun and a great way to talk worldwide without needing HF gear
but if the grid ever fully went down I would expect satellite tracking stations
to lose control of their satellites as the employees are
detained protecting their families. Most AmSat gear is piggybacked on commercial
satellites and is powered from the main buss, amateur controllers have no way
to maintain the main systems on the host satellite.
Look a few months back in the SurvivalBlog archives for the article on Earth
Moon Earth (EME or "moon
bounce") propagation for an exotic and often difficult
alternative to HF radio.
My plug for getting your license in the United State is: There is
no longer a Morse Code test requirement! Anyone can memorize the
question pool and easily pass the tech and general
exams now, what possible reason could any survivor not want to get licensed
and on the air.
Worried about expensive gear? while I put down the
tuna can transmitter for
use as a survival set, it is a great way for a family to build a first transmitter
But if you want an actual usable Morse-only radio transceiver with even minimal
long range survival utility, but easy and small enough for every member of
the family to build and hide
in a Tic-Tac breath mints box for under be $10 the Pixie
takes the prize. If you search the net there are several sources for
the pixie kit. - David in Israel
« Letter Re: .22 Rimfire Kits for Battle Rifle Training |Main| Letter Re: Alternative News Sources When The Grid Goes Down »
Letter Re: Consider Volunteering at a Homeless Shelter
Jim,
I read Doc's
article about volunteering in a homeless shelter and meeting
some of the occupants. That brought back memories of when I was in my early
teens. My Dad worked for the railroad and we lived near the railroad yards
and I met a number of hobos in the woods behind our house. Most of them knew
my Dad and had a lot of respect for him. He would sometimes give them spare
change and cigarettes. The hobo's slept in small dugout caves in the woods
and would never steal from us. But they would steal chickens from a couple
of our
neighbors. I never ever saw a hobo carrying what he had in a bandana on the
end of a stick like you see in pictures. What most of them had was either a
small suitcase or an old surplus WWII army [back]pack. My friends and I would
be playing or riding our bikes in the woods and run into the hobo's eating
or
just hanging around. I was amazed on how they could start fires, cook, a lot
of them always carried fishing tackle made up of hooks, sinkers, and line,
used frog gigs with branches, set traps using snares. I used to hang around
with these guys just to watch them. In turn I would sneak out some cans of
beans, corn,etc to help them out. Not one time was I ever scared or harmed
in any way. Again, most of them knew my Dad and left me alone. At the time
I was in the Boy Scouts and learned from the hobo's and when my Scout troop
would go camping I would use my skills I learned from the hobo's. This would
amaze my scoutmaster and some of my fellow scouts. So I can understand Doc
learning from the homeless that stay in the shelter he works at. - Randy in
Asheville, NC
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Observations on Chest Freezer Efficiency »
Letter Re: Consider Volunteering at a Homeless Shelter
Sir;
I once had an opportunity to volunteer at a homeless shelter in Denver, Colorado.
What started as a chance to be of service, turned out to be a lesson in survival.
I was surprised to learn that many of the "guests" at the shelter
had become experts at existing comfortably, on a permanent basis, without benefit
of a home. Here are some of the things I learned:
1) The first lesson is - The quality of your bags determines the quality of
your life. If your possessions are contained in fragile garbage bags, you are
limited in how much can be carried and how far it can be carried. The first
step up is a simple sports bag, and better yet is a backpack. Next up is a
backpack along with a wheeled carry-on bag and collapsible handle. With such
equipment, you stop looking homeless, and if you and your clothes are clean,
hitch hiking is easier. One creative fellow used bungee cords to lash the luggage
handle to his belt, so the luggage became a trailer of sorts.
On another level was a bicycle messenger who equipped his bicycle with a trailer
for his worldly possessions and panniers for making package deliveries. Before
you dismiss such an arrangement, consider this: His vehicle was paid for,
he had
no mortgage or rent to worry him, a steady job, and a large circle of friends
in the shelter community. He always had money, a smile on his face, no stress,
and time to help others. Can many of us say the same?
No doubt many readers of this blog have seen a "Sidewalk Winnebago" as
the homeless sometimes call them. This is a grocery cart filled to overflowing
with everything the user owns. If you can gain the trust of the owner, perhaps
he will show you what is in the bags. It may amaze you how well equipped they
are to survive whatever comes their way.
2) Staying Clean - Walgreen's sells a shower head on a short hose with a rubber
adapter to connect to a faucet. They are meant for cleaning pets or dishes
in the sink, but can also be used to shampoo your hair in a convenience store
bathroom. The homeless man who showed me this trick said that if your hair
is clean, you appear clean. This helped him find temporary jobs.
3) Self Defense - One man carried a sports bag with a Ka-Bar sheath knife inside.
He could hold the sheath through the bag with his left hand, while drawing
the knife through the open top of the bag with his right hand. Yet another
had a Colt .45 in his bag.
4) I was told that a roll of toilet paper soaked in lighter fluid, charcoal
starter, or alcohol makes a good improvised cooking fire.
5) Another guest showed me his cache that was buried by the river. It was a
pair of five gallon plastic buckets, buried by rocks and hidden behind some
trees
in
a remote area. One was filled with food, the other with cooking utensils. I
doubt that this was his only stash.
Consider volunteering at a homeless shelter. You may be surprised what the
residents there can teach you about survival. The most important lesson I learned
is: I should be more grateful for what I have, and I should give thanks more
often. What a precious lesson. - Doc. S.
« Letter Re: The AR-10 as a Primary Rifle for a Retreat? |Main| Note from JWR: »
Characteristics of a General Purpose Survival Flashlight by W. in Washington
Let there be light. We take it for granted these days, but in the woods on a dark
night, during a power outage, or--most importantly--in a long-term survival
situation, you'll quickly learn just how important light is, and how important
it is to choose your illumination tools wisely.
My purpose here is not to recommend specific lights. There are web sites that
can better help you make that decision. I'll include a few links at the end
to get you started. What I want to do is offer my opinions about what
I think makes for a good survival light. Other people will have other opinions.
While I don't consider myself a flashlight expert, I own over 20 of them and
have put a lot of thought into using flashlights in long-term survival scenarios.
Following are what I consider the most important criteria in evaluating a survival
flashlight (not necessarily in order of importance).
1. Small and lightweight is better
Bigger flashlights are usually bigger (or longer) because they hold more or
larger batteries than smaller flashlights, which usually translates into increased
light output. On the other hand, they're also heavier and more unwieldy than
their smaller cousins, and do not necessarily enjoy a longer runtime than lights
using fewer or smaller batteries. Ideally, a survival light uses just one or
two batteries, and is small and lightweight enough comfortably carry in your
shirt or front pants pocket. This gives you more carry options and makes carrying
the light for long periods of time more comfortable.
2. Uses a common battery size
Currently, the most common flashlight battery sizes are AAA, AA, and D cells.
Very few lights use 9-volt batteries (though there are some that would make
decent back-ups, such as the PALight or PakLite), while most D-cell lights
are too big and/or heavy for consistent, comfortable carry. That leaves AA-
or AAA-cell lights as the most logical choices. Using a common battery size
is important for obvious reasons. Many new battery types and sizes have hit
the market in the last few years, and while these are (slowly) gaining in popularity,
they're still not as common as AAs and AAAs. They also tend to be more expensive.
Remember, we're talking about serious, long-term,
dedicated survival lights, not the fancy whiz-bang or cheap-o flashlight you
keep by your bedside, in your glove box, or take car camping. Depending on
the severity and duration of the survival scenario, it will probably be easier
to either purchase or barter for AA and AAA batteries than the newer, more
exotic sizes. In fact, if possible, it might be wise to standardize all your survival-related
electronics so that they use AA and/or AAA batteries.
3. Uses a variety of battery types
It's important that survival flashlights be able to function whether using
alkaline, lithium, or rechargeable batteries--especially rechargeables (along
with a portable solar recharging system), since you could be facing a long-term survival situation. Each type has its own particular
advantages and disadvantages. Most lights will function using all three types,
though some manufacturers don't include lithium primaries in their list of recommendations. That doesn't mean lithium batteries
will harm your light, but don't assume there won't be a problem using any type
of battery that the manufacturer doesn't specifically recommend. Find out exactly
what batteries your survival light can tolerate before you purchase it, or
test the batteries in your light before you have to rely on them.
4. Fewer batteries is better
Obviously, the fewer the batteries needed to operate the light . . . the fewer
batteries you'll need to operate the light. This is a good thing in a survival
situation, even better in a long-term survival situation. Your two-cell light
may get a total runtime of 60 hours compared to just 40 hours for my one-cell
light. But I'll get a total of 80 hours using two batteries compared to your
60 hours. Of course, comparisons like this don't always apply: run times vary
greatly between different manufacturers and models depending on the type of
light source and the electronics employed. Still, as a rule, a survival light should use no more than two batteries, preferably just
one. Currently, there are many one-cell AA lights on the market that not only produce a lot of light (for their size), but also enjoy excellent
run times. Twenty-plus hours of usable light is not uncommon, and even longer
run times can be found. There are also a few 1xAAA lights available that might
make adequate primary or excellent back-up survival lights.
5. Simple to operate
There are lots of fancy lights out there that sport multiple output levels,
including SOS and strobe modes. Some are even computer-programmable. While
that's not a bad thing in itself, when it comes to survival lights (as with
most survival gear), simple is usually better. A light with just one medium-intensity
level will usually suffice, or perhaps a two-level light with low and high
output levels. In
the end, it doesn't matter how many light levels or modes your light offers,
just so that it's dirt simple and intuitive to operate.
6. Reliable operation mechanism
" Twisty" or "clickie," that is the question. Which is more
reliable? There is no definitive answer, because operation reliability depends
more on the quality of the light (and its constituent parts) than on the particular mode of operation. And even a good company can turn out the occasional
bad light. I've heard of $200+ Surefire lights having clickie malfunctions. I've also heard of twisty lights failing because the circuit
board was displaced after repeated use, or by using too much torque while tightening
the bezel. Most clickies have the on-off mechanism on the rear of the light, while some have it on the side (e.g., Maglite).
Most twisties are operated by turning the bezel (head) or tail cap. And there
are also hybrid models utilizing both twisty and clickie operations. If at
all possible, obtain spare clickie mechanisms and/or twisty bezels (depending
on the type of light) to use as replacement parts. [JWR Adds: Changing
a MagLite "clickie" switch assembly require the use of an Allen (hex)
wrench. Thankfully, MagLite sells large maintenance & repair spare parts
sets at a very low price, considering the number of parts included in the sets.
I have been told that they sell these parts sets at near their cost, to keep
their biggest customers (such as police and fire departments) happy and loyal
to the brand.]
7. Well constructed
Look for lights where the bulb is reasonably protected within the bezel, that
are shock resistant and water resistant/proof, and that won't accidentally
turn on while in your pocket or backpack. Clickies are most prone to accidental
activation. This can usually be prevented by rotating the bezel or tail cap
(depending on which end the batteries are inserted into) counterclockwise while
the light is on until the power cuts out, then clicking the clickie button
off.
8. LED versus
incandescent
No contest here. A flashlight that uses an incandescent (or similar type) bulb
is simply not a primary survival light. Period. If the bulb itself can burn
out or malfunction due to shock (broken element), then you don't want to trust
your life to its operation. While light emitting diode (LED) "bulbs" technically
don't last forever, a 5,000- to 10,000-hour use life is close enough to "forever" for
survival purposes. And no, LED bulbs are not impervious to shock, but they're
a heck of a lot tougher than other bulb types. Over the last few years LED
technology has improved exponentially, to the point where they now favorably
compare to or out-perform most other lights in almost every category, including
output (brightness). There are still brighter bulb types out there, but the
newest and brightest LEDs are more than bright enough to meet virtually every
basic need you'll have for a flashlight. The older Nichia brand LEDs, still
commonly found on store racks (it takes time for new technology to trickle
down to the retail level) emit a slightly bluish tint. Many people find this
tint objectionable, though it's really a matter of aesthetics. I still rely
on a relatively dim Nichia LED as my primary survival light (a CMG Infinity
Ultra, now redesigned and marketed under the Gerber name), and am more than
willing to put up with the bluish tint due to its superb runtime (80+ hours
of usable light on just 1 AA battery). My current back-up survival light (an
old Arc-P 1xAAA) is also a Nichia. Other people are not so forgiving of the
tint. Not to worry. The newer generation LEDs (e.g., the so-called Cree lights,
and others are on the way) boast a lily white tint--or maybe even whiter than
lilies. The bottom line is, go with LED technology.
9. Good compromise between output and run time
Other than the "LED versus incandescent" issue (which is actually
a non-issue), this is arguably the most important criterion, and it's what
separates most lights from true survival lights. Look for a run time of at
least seven hours to 50% output (which would probably translate into
8-12 total hours of usable light). This is the minimum that
you should settle for. The longer the run time, the better. Let's make sure
you understand that last point. The longer the run time, the better. Don't
get hung up on the whole output (i.e., how bright it is) thing. Super-bright "tactical" lights
are great for impressing your friends, but will usually suck batteries dry
much more quickly than less powerful lights (although improving LED technology
continues to give us brighter lights and better run times.). Also, the darker
your environment, the less light you need to see well enough. Brighter lights
can actually be a disadvantage, because they more readily attract unwanted
attention, and can also impair your night vision more than moderate-output
lights. These are important considerations in a survival scenario. Again, we're
talking about survival lights here, not tactical (super bright) lights. While
it might make sense to also take along a super-bright light for "tactical" use
(e.g., disorienting or disrupting the night vision of a potential threat),
in most cases these lights will not meet the necessary criteria to qualify as true survival lights. And to repeat: the darker your environment,
the less light you'll need to perform most essential tasks.
11. Quality of light beam
What this refers to is the illumination pattern, or beam characteristic, of
the light. It's sometimes referred to as "spill." For survival lights,
a wide spill beam is usually preferable to a tight, bright spot beam.
While the former won't illuminate specific objects as well, it provides illumination
to a wider area, facilitating a broader picture and better peripheral vision.
The latter will illuminate specific objects or smaller areas much better, and
will have greater (longer) "throw," but will also tend to draw your
line of sight inward, so that you focus more on what's illuminated in the spot
beam than on what may be around it. Tight, bright beams are also more detrimental
to night vision than wider, dimmer spill beams. A few lights seek a compromise
between the two, claiming to offer both a bright center beam as well as decent
spill. Some are more successful at accomplishing this than others. Personally,
I prefer lights that do one thing or the other over those that take a "Swiss
Army Knife" approach to illumination, though you may feel otherwise.
If you happen to choose to also carry a more powerful "tactical" light,
just in case it's needed, you'll probably prefer that it have a bright, fairly
narrow beam. But for a general purpose survival light, you want a wider, more
diffuse beam, allowing you take in more visual information at one time.
12. Lanyard hole
The lanyard hole is just that--a hole [or loop] in the light [body or tail
cap] through which you can attach a lanyard (cord) or a split ring, to which
the lanyard can be attached (I prefer this setup). The lanyard can then be
tied around your wrist, for example, or through a belt loop to prevent the
loss of your light. Instead of a hole, some lights employ other means for lanyard
attachment, and some have no dedicated lanyard attachment at all--except, perhaps,
a (removable or screwed-into-place) pocket clip under which you could thread
a cord. Unless you choose to forgo the lanyard and attach your light to a key
ring along with other needed items (which I advise against, though that might
be a viable option for a small back-up light), Always use a lanyard and secure it to your person, your
clothing, or your gear, even when not in use. Your survival light is an essential,
life-saving, possibly irreplaceable tool, but it will do you no good if you
lose it. To be honest, I don't think I'd buy a light for serious survival
that did not feature a dedicated, foolproof lanyard attachment, preferably
a hole through some portion of the body.
13. Pocket clip
Most smaller lights these days come with pocket clips. They are usually detachable
(slide-on, slide-off), and are useful for securing the light to the inside
of a pocket, or for clipping it to your clothes, gear, or hat brim while performing
tasks that require both hands. (I would always use a lanyard in addition to
the clip). Pocket clips are nice to have. If your light doesn't come with one,
it would be worthwhile to find a clip from some other source (such as another
light of the same diameter) that fits snugly around your survival flashlight.
14. Can stand on its tail
This is not an essential criterion, and I certainly wouldn't reject a light
simply because it isn't designed to stand upright on its tail end (and FWIW,
my current primary survival light doesn't), but lights that can do so add an
additional level of functionality. They are especially useful when you desire
ambient (rather than direct) light, such as when reading or dressing in your
tent. Of course, you can always prop your light up or clip it to something
to get the same effect, but it's not quite as handy.
15. Caring for your light
Other than lubing the bezel and/or tail cap threads with an appropriate wet
or dry lubricant, and avoiding cross-threading when attaching the bezel and/or
tail cap, flashlight maintenance is pretty simple. Don't put the battery(ies)
in backwards, keep it dry, don't drop it, etc. I'd suggest keeping your survival
light empty of batteries until needed. Otherwise, keep lithiums in there. Alkalines
can leak and ruin your light.
Q: What about headlamps? Can these be used as survival lights?
A: Very handy items to have. The light shines right where you look. Including
smack dab into the face of the person you're looking at. Maybe it's just me,
but I don't much care for light in my eyes when I'm trying to preserve my night
vision. They might also make a handy head-shot target for hostiles. Let's put
it this way. While most small flashlights can usually be rigged to serve as
makeshift headlamps (with the aid of a pocket clip or headband, for example),
most headlamps cannot readily be used in the same manner as one might use a
flashlight. Headlamps could possibly serve as back-up survival lights (if they
use only one or two batteries), but I would not recommend them as primary survival
lights. A flashlight will, in most instances, prove more versatile.
Resources
1. The best flashlight resource on the Web is Candle
Power Forums
. Lots of traffic and more info about flashlights than most people would ever
need to know. Also a good source for obtaining custom lights.
2. One of the better flashlight review sites is FlashlightReviews.com.
It's no longer updated regularly, but many of the lights still being sold are
reviewed at the site.
JWR Adds: I agree with W's recommendation to get white LED
flashlights. Here at Rawles
Ranch, we mainly use the older late 1990s-vintage C. Crane Company blue-white
LED lights that are compatible with NiMH rechargeable
AA batteries. I realize that many SurvivalBlog readers have a lot invested
in incandescent bulb flashlights. Rather than selling them at a loss, keep
in mind that LED
replacement heads now available for most or the major brands including
MagLite and SureFire. OBTW, if you decide to transition to LEDs, save
those original incandescent light bulb components. You never know
when someday you may need a lot of light--for example for
impromptu surgery out in the field. The other exception is truly SHTF tactical
use. While I do not advocate using a visible light flashlight
or rail-mounted weapon light where you are up against and armed opponent. (Since
they provide your opponent with a convenient point of aim.) They are fine for
shooting marauding bears, but almost suicidal when confronting two-legged predators.
However, I do advocate using the same lights with
an infrared (IR) filter installed, in situations where you have night
vision goggles (or a Starlight
scope) and you have a high level of confidence that your opponent does
not. This will give you a tremendous tactical advantage in low-light fighting.
In these circumstances, for short periods of time you will want all
the light that you can get! For this purpose, I keep the original
incandescent light heads for my Surefire lights handy. I also keep a 50 piece
box of the standard Panasonic brand CR-123 lithium batteries in my refrigerator,
as a "tactical reserve." These have a 10+ year shelf life. Our current
box, (which, BTW, was generously donated by a reader in lieu of a 10
Cent Challenge subscription payment), won't expire until 2018.
Regarding lanyards, I recommend using a long, stout lanyard that is a full
loop, preferably with a ball-shaped spring button slider. I mainly use olive
drab paracord.
The longer the better, for the sake of versatility. If the lanyard is too short,
then there is not enough slack to loop the flashlight through (in a Girth
Hitch--a.k.a. Lanyard Knot) to be able to hang a light from a branch, belt
loop, tent d-ring, or other object.
« Letter Re: Are Simultaneous Inflation and Deflation Possible? |Main| Note from JWR: »
Arm Thyself, by William Buppert
President Bush has embarked on the final phase of Pax Americana and is ushering
in an advanced imperial stage that will endanger every living American. The
coming election will assure us that every American will have his Second Amendment
rights infringed or predated upon in some fashion no matter which party succeeds
(is there a difference except the spelling?). Perennial readers of this site
are better versed than most in the predatory nature of the state and its ability
to target and vilify those it wishes to eliminate eventually whether through
political neutralization such as Trent Lott or lethal means such as Waco or
Ruby Ridge. I'd like to focus this essay on the practical application of what
Boston T. Party refers to as "liberty's teeth" or small arms. There
are plenty of organizations like Jews
for the Preservation of Firearms Ownership (JPFO) and Gun Owners of America
(GOA) which will provide you with all the intellectual
ammunition you need to know why you should be armed; I want to tell you how.
I want to offer a bare-bones primer on how to get started in amassing your
personal armory (contrary to what the government says, an arsenal is where
weapons are manufactured) and using the weapons you obtain. I have a military
background that spans two decades, shoot competitively and currently instruct
tactical firearms so I have left the armchair a few times.
There are plenty of sites from which you can obtain this information but I
wanted to provide a fairly painless gateway to get started if you are beginning
from ground zero. The black helicopter crowds are chockfull of hunker-down
survivalist information which for the most part suffers from their barely hidden
desire for the apocalypse to occur coupled with their propensity to be armchair
enthusiasts unfettered by real world application of firepower. On the other
end of the spectrum, you have the nation's largest gun prohibition organization,
the National Rifle Association, selling plenty of safety-oriented gun practices
(while winking lustfully at the Beltway media and other hoplophobes) and ignoring
any martial aspects of weapons or gun handling the Founders wrote the Second
Amendment for in the first place.
1. Establish a mindset much like the Flinters in F.
Paul Wilson's novels. Fully
embrace the initiated
non-aggression principle. This is not a call for armed
revolt or insurrection. This is summed up as leave me alone or else. Whether
you own weapons now or not, you should be fully decided that when, not if,
the government comes around to seize them you will relinquish them one round
at a time. Or you have had the foresight to properly cache spares and you can
hand over that Lee Harvey Oswald Carcano to the nice young men in black ninja
suits who are from the government and just want to help you. If you have any
doubt about that, stop reading this and take any weapons you now own and donate
them to a paleo-conservative or libertarian who cares. You may continue reading
if liberty means more than lip service. The right to self-defense should be
beyond question to this audience.
2. If you bought one book on the subject, buy Boston T. Party's book, "Boston's
Gun Bible" (revised April 2002). Hey, we're on LRC,
you always want a book on the subject. As a matter of fact, this logical and
sound compendium of gun
stuff is worth a whole shelf of gun tomes. Read it two or three times and always
have a highlighter in hand. He's done all the work for you. You just have to
read and heed. It has had a perennial place on my nightstand since I bought
it. While those new to the gun community will be amazed at the pedantic disagreements
that enliven every corner of the gun culture from ballistics to weapons choice,
enquiring minds will really be energized by the level of intellectual ferment
once you get the gun habit. If one only read the New York Times or the Los
Angeles Times, you'd think all gun owners were backward hillbillies who only
Jim Goad could
love. Like so many American subcultures, there is a niche for every need or
desire. For instance, I disagree with his number-one choice for a battle rifle
(M1A versus FN-FAL) but that is the nature of the enterprise.
3. Write this on your whiteboard one hundred times: I will never, ever buy
a weapon from a Federal Firearms Dealer (FFL).
I will only make private party purchases through gun shows, the classifieds
or through friends and neighbors.
The Feral (no misspelling) government has developed a devilishly clever system
using the BATF as
their stalking horse to enable a de facto and de
jure gun
registration system established at the central government level every time
a weapon is purchased at a brick and mortar gun shop. Check your risk tolerance
and local and state laws to determine the regulations regarding private sales
but the litmus test is easy. If you see guns for sale in your local newspaper
classifieds, it is under the government radar (for now). Recent events such
as the spate of college campus shootings and the attempts by local and state
governments to regulate and suppress every manner of arms employment and provisioning
should convince you that time is short. The same applies to ammunition; buy
it at a gun show for cash as there is no requirement for a permit (yet) in
most states. I hope you are fortunate enough to live in a state unlike Illinois
or some of the Borg states in the northeastern part of these united States.
When buying these weapons through private sales, always be prepared to walk
away if it smells funny. Never buy any weapon that even appears to be fully
automatic or is hinted to be. The Class
3 licensing system in the US regulates
these firearms in a very draconian fashion under the auspices of the 1934 National
Firearms Act. The government has a history of entrapment and provocation. Ask
Randy Weaver if a half-inch on a ruler is hazardous to your health or that
of your family.
4. I could write a book on what to buy but that is beyond the scope of this
essay. Armed conflict is a discipline of distance. Different firearms have
envelopes of lethality as distance is increased which is also a factor in accuracy.
To paraphrase Boston, a pistol is what you fight your way to your rifle with.
Spare no expense since your life depends on these tools. At minimum you need
a rifle and pistol for every member of your family. The Glock pistol
is the hands-down winner for accuracy and reliability. As to rifles, if you
are poorer
than dirt, scrape up $100 and buy a Lee-Enfield .303 rifle. These bolt actions
are highly serviceable for social work. If you have more money, invest the
hundreds and thousands it will take to get a proper battle rifle such as an
FN-FAL, M1A or HK91 and
all the equipment and ammunition to accompany each rifle for its care and feeding.
Be sure to have a minimum of 25 magazines per
rifle and ten per pistol. From this point, once you have started to empty your
wallet, more equipment will start to appeal to you such as load-bearing gear,
body armor and all manner of shooting accouterment. The sky is the limit (and
your income).
5. Pay for the very best firearms training you can afford; a single digit percentage
of the gun culture pays for professional training and this is the greatest
shortcoming you can have. No matter how American the concept of having the
most elaborate toys, if you can't employ them, then their value is moot. Go
to Google or Metacrawler, type in firearms training in your state and see who
offers it locally or go to the nationally renowned training centers like Gunsite,
Thunder Ranch or Firearms Academy of Seattle (my personal favorite for value
and quality). Take your spouse, too. She is your primary team-member.
6. Teach your children well. The gun culture has roots as far back as the first
settlers in North America. This continuity is a result of parents passing on
their knowledge and weapons to their progeny to continue down the line. Exposure
to guns early enough can make liberty contagious.
Remember, guns don’t kill people, governments and the criminals they
create do. - William Buppert, February 18, 2008
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Are Simultaneous Inflation and Deflation Possible? »
Letter Re: Concealment Holster Recommendations for a Humid Climate
Jim,
I need to get some concealed holsters for myself and my wife for our Glocks.
What do you guys recommend? Thanks, - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: For concealment, I generally prefer Milt
Sparks brand holsters. However,
in
your high-humidity climate, anything made of leather is probably a mistake,
especially
for everyday
wear.
High humidity means a constant battle against rusty guns and moldy leather.
(In Hawaii, nothing ever seems to get really "dry.") So in your circumstances,
I recommend Kydex.
We have been very happy with the Blade-Tech
brand Kydex holsters and magazine
pouches. We use them extensively here at the Rawles
Ranch for our M1911s.
We started using them about two years ago, soon after we saw how prevalent
they were,
when
The
Memsahib and I
went to take a four day defensive handgun course at Front
Sight.
See
this
SurvivalBlog post from March of 2007 for more about holsters in general,
and Blade-Tech in particular. Their Inside the Waistband (IWB)
model is probably best for concealment. Although their standard holster
with a paddle conversion might work too.
I have found
that
people
either
immediately love or hate paddles, but most folks like IWBs. Remember
to get a thick, stiff, and fairly wide belt, regardless of
your choice of holster. The belt that you use is crucial for
keeping a holstered pistol stable and secure. you don't want to have
it flopping around. When I shop for clothes, one of the first
things that I now look for is large
belt
loops
to accommodate
a thick, wide belt.
And, FWIW, I'm a big believer in getting stainless steel pistols for everyday
carry, especially in humid climates.
« Two Letters Re: My Preparedness Plans Just Took an Unexpected Turn |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
The "Come as You Are" Collapse--Have the Right Tools and Skills
In the Second World War, the United States had nearly two full years to ramp
up military training and production before decisively confronting the Axis
powers. In the late 1970s, looking at the recent experience of the 1973 Arab-Israeli
War, the Pentagon's strategic planners came to the realization that the next
major war that the US military would wage would not be
like the Second World War. There would not be the luxury of time to train and
equip. They realized that we would have to fight with only what we had available
on Day One. They dubbed this the "Come as you are war" concept.
In my opinion, the same "come as you are" mindset should
be applied to family preparedness. We must recognize that in these
days of rapid news dissemination, it may take as little as 10 hours before
supermarket shelves are cleaned out. It make take just a few hours for queues
that are literally blocks-long to form at gas stations--or at bank branches
in the event of bank runs. Worse yet, it may take just a few hours before
the highways and freeways leading out of urban and suburban areas are clogged
with traffic--the dreaded "Golden
Horde" that I often write about. Do not make the false assumption
that you will have the chance to make "one last trip" to the big
box store, or even the chance to fill your Bug Out Vehicle's fuel tank. This
will be the "come as you are" collapse.
The concept also applies to your personal training. If you haven't learned
how to do things before the balloon goes, up, then don't expect to get anything
but marginal to mediocre on-the-job training after the fact. In essence, you
have the opportunity to take top quality training from the best trainers now,
but you won't once the Schumer hits
the fan. Take the time to get top-notch training! Train with the best--with
organizations like Medical
Corps, WEMSI, Front
Sight, the RWVA/Appleseed
Project, the WRSA,
and the ARRL.
Someday, you'll be very glad that you did.
The come as you are concept definitely applies to specialized manufactured
equipment.You are dreaming if you think that
you will have the chance to to purchase any items such as these, in a post-collapse
world:
razor
wire, body
armor, night
vision equipment,
advanced
first aid gear, tritium
scopes, dosimeters
and radiac meters, biological decontamination
equipment, Dakota
Alert or military surplus PEWS intrusion
detection sets, photovoltaics,
NBC
masks, and semi-auto
battle rifles.
Think about it: There
are very few if these items (per capita) presently in circulation. But the
demand for them during a societal collapse would be tremendous. How could
you compete in such a scant market? Anyone that conceivably has "spares" will
probably want to keep them for a member of their own family or group. So
even in the unlikely event that someone was even willing to sell
such scarce items, they would surely ask a king's ransom in barter
for them. I'm talking about quarter sections of land,
entire strings of
well-broken horses, or pounds of
gold. Offers of anything less would surely be scoffed at.
Don't overlook the "you" part of the "as
you are" premise.
Are you physically fit? Are you up to date on your dental work? Do you have
two pairs of sturdy eyeglasses with your current prescription? Do
you have at least a six month supply of vitamins and medications? Is your body
weight
reasonable?
If you answer to any of these is no, then get busy!
Even if you have a modest budget, you will have an advantage over the average
suburbanite. Your knowledge and training alone--what is between your ears--will
ensure that. And even with just a small budget for food storage, you will be
miles ahead of your neighbors. Odds are that they will have less than two week's
worth of food on hand. As I often say, you will need extra supplies on hand to
help out relatives, friends, and neighbors that were ill-prepared. I consider
charity my Christian duty!
I have repeatedly and strongly emphasized the importance of living
at your intended retreat year-round. But I realize that because
of personal finances, family obligations, and the constraints of making a
living at an hourly or
salaried job, that this is not realistic--except for a few of us, mainly retirees.
If you are stuck in the Big City and plan to Get Out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.)
at the eleventh hour, then by all means pre-position the vast majority of your
gear and supplies at your retreat. You will most likely only have one, I repeat, one G.O.O.D.
trip. If there is a major crisis there will probably be no chance to "go
back for a second load." So WTSHTF will
truly be a "come as you are" affair.
With all of this in mind, re-think your preparedness priorities. Stock
your retreat well. If there isn't someone living there year-round,
then hide what is there from burglars. (See the numerous SurvivalBlog posts
on caching and constructing hidden compartments and rooms.) Maintain balance
in your preparations. In a situation where you are truly hunkered-down at
your retreat in the midst of a societal collapse, there might not be any
opportunity to barter for any items that you overlooked. (At least not for
several months. ) What you have is what you got. You will have to make-do.
So be sure to develop your "lists
of lists" meticulously. If you have the funds available, construct
a combination storm shelter/fallout shelter/walk-in vault. It
would be virtually impossible to build something that elaborate in the aftermath
of a
societal collapse.
A closing thought that relates to your retreat logistics: The
original colonial Army Rangers, organized by Major Robert Rogers during
the French and Indian Wars of the 1750s had a
succinct list of operating rules. The version of the "Rules of Ranging" recounted
in the novel "Northwest Passage" by Kenneth Roberts started
with a strong proviso: "Don't forget nothing." That
is sage advice.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: My Preparedness Plans Just Took an Unexpected Turn »
Letter Re: AA Cells and Mobile Power
There was a discussion about batteries a few days back on SurvivalBlog. The
writer advocated using AA NiMH cells almost exclusively, with adapters for devices requiring C and D cells. While
I do agree that this is a good approach for some devices, there is certainly
some merit to having full size 10 Amp Hour (10,000 MAH) batteries in high [current]
draw or long term use devices. Not only is capacity
significantly higher on larger cells, but the maximum safe current draw is
higher too.
Good NiMH C cells have 2-to-3 times the capacity of AA cells, and NiMH D cells
have 4-to-5 times the capacity of AA cells. They can be charged in a reasonable
timeframe on a good quality charger like the MAHA MH-C801D. If you shop carefully
you can find 10AH NiMH low self discharge D cells for around $10 each (As an
example, see Overstock.com). Thanks, - BR
JWR Replies: I recommend that SurvivalBlog readers be very
careful when shopping for size C and D NiCD and NiMH batteries. Many of the
batteries on the market have no more capacity than a size AA. (With those,
essentially you are getting the same "guts" used in a size AA cell,
but just in a bigger "can.") Look carefully and the MaH ratings before
you buy! Also, be sure to buy only brands (such as Sanyo's
ENELOOP) that have "Low Self Discharge" (LSD) rates.
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Note from JWR:
Today we welcome back one of our original
advertisers: Wiggy's,
in Grand Junction, Colorado. They make outstanding quality sleeping bags, clothing,
and other outdoor gear. They are one of the four remaining true American-made sleeping
bag
manufacturers. (Nearly all of their competitors have moved their production offshore.)
I love their products. We have five Wiggy's FTRSS sleeping
bags and four Wiggy's Lamilite ground pads here at the Rawles
Ranch. Most of these are now more than 15 years old, and
still quite serviceable. They are truly built to last.
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Letter Re: Keeping a Low Profile is Crucial for Preparedness
Jim,
My missus and I have been into "prepping" for about 15 years. Our
house has a basement and it is practically wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling
with shelves--with just narrow aisles in between. The shelves are chockablock
with storage food (all labeled and organized "FIFO"-style),
medical supplies, assorted "field" type gear, tools, barter/charity
stuff, ammo cans, propane cylinders (that fit our camp stove and camping lantern),
reels of field phone wire, paper products, and so forth. Following the example
of Mr. Whiskey (from your "Profiles")
we have recently built up 27 sets of designated "charity duffles",
each packed in a cheap Made-in-Taiwan nylon duffle bag. Each of these contains
a Dutch Army surplus wool blanket, a Chinese knockoff of a Leatherman tool,
a pair of gloves, a pile ("watch") cap, a half dozen pairs of socks,
a thrift store man's jacket, room for four days worth of food (which we would
pack from our FIFO inventory, as needed), a collapsing plastic water container
(the type that Campmor sells), a waterproof match container, a tube tent, and
a hand line fishing kit. ("Teach a man to fish...")
When we moved back to California in 1998, we picked our house specially because
it was built in the 1940s. It is the oldest and sturdiest house on the block.
(The neighborhood built up around the house, when the property was subdivided
in the 1960s.) It has a basement and its own water well, which
is now "off the books"--since the house is now on "city" [metered]
water, but th
