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From Mike Williamson: Some Useful DIY Home Power Technology Web Links
The following links will be of interest to anyone interested in do-it-yourself (DIY) power generation and 19th Century technology. Most of these come from Lindsay Publishing. [JWR Adds: They are also one one of my favorites!] :
Generator and Inverters
Wood into Charcoal and Electricity (although the generator design is at best a temp make-work design while you scrounge to build a better one).
Gas Engines and Producer Gas Plants
DIY Wind Turbine Power Plant (The best DIY design out there, although you might find a cheaper copy elsewhere).
DIY Machine Shop (This is a Gingery design, not suitable for those that are clumsy)
Other Wood Gasifier DIY Books.
A FEMA-designed wood gasifier that will hold you over while you build something better, if you are lazy and wait until it is almost to late. Not even remotely the best design but it is quick and fairly easy to build. It is titled: "Construction of a Simplified Wood Gas Generator for Fueling Internal Combustion Engines in a Petroleum Emergency/"
I hope that folks find these useful. - Michael Z. Williamson (SurvivalBlog's Editor at Large)
Prefabricated Garden Sheds as Instant Shelters and Storage Spaces for Retreats
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Letter Re: Pros and Cons of Propane Storage
James,
Having a lot of propane on hand has some serious issues. Homeland Security via "Emergency Planning and Community Right-to-Know Act" (EPCRA) requires anyone that has more than 10,000 pounds of virtually any hazardous material (except for explosives and radioactive materials that have their own unique requirements), to report that quantity to the State Homeland Security Office, the local Fire Marshal, and the Local Emergency Management Manager yearly. These reports are open to anybody that wants to see them. (Now you know how the bad guy knows where the stuff is, all they have to do is ask and the Emergency Manager has to give them the information by law). I am not making that up, either. I am a member of the Local Emergency Planning Committee (a county wide group with members appointed by the state) which is responsible for looking about, finding illegally stored material and requiring compliance. To comply with the act, I file what is known as a Tier II report to the three agencies listed above yearly listing propane, diesel, and gasoline quantities on hand and a set of plans of the operation showing where such is stored. So if being off the radar is important to you [then keep under 10,000 pound limit.] I always try to work within the system. Of course if the system fails, all bets are off anyway.
After several years of working on the project (more pointedly, working with the vendor), I have the capability to pump propane from a pair of 1,000 gallon tanks that are connected on the bottom for propane liquid connection. The skid based 12,000 pound full unit has a 240 volt power supply to the electric pump that does the work moving liquid propane from the storage to the smaller tank it is filling. If the grid is up, the pump will run on it, when the grid is down, I have an automatic generator that kicks in (that just happens to run on propane) that will power our main well and power the [electric] propane pump motor.
Of course with propane, there is always a security problem. You know, someone sitting up a high hill with an API bullet just waiting for the right time to set off the show. Big white tanks make an easy target. Hopefully, we will have our perimeter secure if there is that need. Take the advice though. Camouflage the tanks asap if Schumer gets spread by the fan. Otherwise, white or silver reflects heat very well and keeps your propane tanks happy.
I have also purchased a 250 gallon propane tank that I fabricated onto a skid using 2x6 rectangular steel incorporating a pair of forklift ports. I can pick this tank up with a diesel powered skid steer and since I had the small tank plumbed on the bottom for liquid with the proper connector, I can feed liquid propane by gravity 250 gallons at a time to any tank on the ranch. It is very difficult to talk your local distributor to participate in this kind of project because they are turning you into a potential competitor. But because I live 15 miles from the nearest asphalt road and over 60 miles to the nearest town. Power outages for a week are not uncommon. If the whole grid went down for a year, we would still have power periodically as we fill the stock tanks and keep the freezers cold. Overall, I believe we have a bit over 7,000 gallons of propane which would power our "headquarters" for many months and maybe years if used part time. It will keep indefinitely if kept comfortably cool with no additives needed.
Yes, I have a propane powered vehicle. However, if you put propane into a vehicle to use as fuel, you should be paying state tax on that propane (and federal no doubt soon). Therefore I would never suggest such an action unless you know your local state tax collector personally. I, of course fuel my propane powered vehicles at the local propane fill operation. Unlike Agricultural Diesel (Red) and Residential Fuel Oil (Green), Residential Propane has no marker to trace where it came from. The last time I filled my truck with propane, it was 2.70 a gallon with residential use propane being (summer rate) at $1.49. The trick of course is having the right nozzles. Being able to fill vehicles and small 25/35 pound tanks (BBQ tanks), is a really handy thing. Good luck getting those nozzles. They are worth more than silver by weight and they are made only of bronze. Again, the trick is to get your local distributor work with you. You can't just find this stuff on the internet, I know because I tried.
Propane fired vehicles have several advantages. Because propane is such a clean burning fuel, combined with synthetic oil in your crankcase, you don't have to change the oil very often. Perhaps several years between oil changes if you only use the vehicle sparingly. I have put over 10,000 miles on an oil change before and it really didn't look dirty though it may have lost some of it's lubricating qualities. Synthetic oil is more expensive but doesn't break down and stays much cleaner than oil in engines fired with gasoline and especially diesel fuel tanks. Propane wins hands down.
Another advantage, when there is the next mass evacuation, lines will form at any gas station that is open. There won't be any lines at your local propane distributor. Heck, if you get the right adaptor, you could hook a BBQ tank up to your vehicle. (That is illegal by the way but in a pinch......).
Most propane conversions enable dual fuel use. Either regular gasoline or propane may be used by my personal conversion. Just flick a switch, (hit the solenoid with a tech-tap once in a while) and your off running on the other fuel. My pickup has a 600 mile cruising range now. Two gas tanks, and an 80 gallon propane tank. Your power is reduced slightly but your mileage is similar to using gasoline.
Propane conversions are available for most gasoline engines including lawn mowers, boats, automobiles (there are even donut shaped tanks made to fit in the spare tire area), and trucks. Trucks enable a larger tank to be mounted forward in the bed. Mine fits nicely under a short tool box and it is impossible to see unless you look over the bed. It sort of just blends in.
Having said the preceding, it may not be easy to find someone who has the technical savvy to do an installation on your vehicle. Also, they tend to be fly by night guys who recycle many parts over and over again and do it as a sideline. (I'm not saying there aren't professionals out there, just a heads up). I would call the conversion about a 6 out of 10 if you like automobile work. About two days of dedicated "spare time" will do most conversions. Just make sure you don't route the propane hose next to an exhaust line or you might be driving a flare down the road and make the papers. So much for staying off the radar.
A good neighbor asked me if I was afraid when he saw that I was a "survivalist". I said "no, I am prepared". (My nearest neighbor is 4 miles away). Now he is also working on contingency planning with fall back plans to me if he fails. The guy shoots running coyotes at 300 yards, that skill might come in handy if coyotes become a problem. Signed, - Frank B. (15 miles from the nearest asphalt road)
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Two Letters Re: Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009
JWR:
I liked JC in Oklahoma's reply to Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009 but with all due respect, I would not cut someone else's lock. Most gates that I have seen around where I live, have a chain with a lock. I would advise cutting a link out of the chain and attaching your lock, like a replacement link. This way you keep the owner somewhat happy and still accomplish the task of passing thru the gate as well as being able to cross back through.
Now I need to get out and check what routes I might use to leave in a hurry. - Jim B
Jim,
My father-in-law just bought a Cessna 172 [single engine light aircraft] and that got me thinking about this. An option folks might consider is getting out by air. Depending on the nature of the emergency, escape by light airplane might be a very viable option for those who learn to fly and stay current enough to be relatively safe (that is to say, maybe not totally legal but good enough to pull off a single long trip in good weather). I say relatively because in a SHTF scenario, some things just don't matter quite as much. I'd much rather risk my life flying while not totally current than wait in my single-story house for a fallout cloud to arrive.
It has been almost twenty years since I took the bulk of my flying lessons. (I had logged 45 hours total and needed only my last cross-country and a check ride when I ran out of [flight training] money) but I've flown a number of times since and have no doubt I could get from here to a thousand miles from here if the weather was good and I could carry or otherwise obtain enough fuel.
I figure a guy has two options for getting a plane if TSHTF. The first, and ideal, option is to have a cultivated relationship with the flight school owner or operator. If TSHTF, you call him at home and rent the plane. The second, and it is doubtless you (Jim) won't like it, is to "borrow" a plane using a key you cut the last time that you rented it. Cycle through renting all of the planes during your instruction and you'll have your choice of aircraft... Of course taking a plane without permission is theft, but the intention is to return the plane. If it's life or death I'll deal with the ethical questions later. Remember, these are flight school planes rented to students, not "another man's food" and if it really did hit the fan, people aren't going to be lining up for flying lessons today anyway. [JWR Adds: While I cannot condone theft, I should mention that is common practice, particularly with flight schools at small airports, to have all of the yoke or throttle locks keyed-alike, for the convenience of the instructor pilots. Also, most throttle shaft locks are not very robust. In an emergency, a pair of bolt cutters can be used to remove a lock. And furthermore, on many aircraft models, the throttle knob is held in place with one or two Allen head set screws, or made of molded plastic, and can therefore be cut, crushed, or otherwise removed, allowing a throttle shaft lock to then be slid off.]
There are a couple logistical considerations here. One is fuel. Some light planes can burn autogas (car gas) but many require leaded Avgas. In either case, you'll need to be prepared to carry enough fuel to get you where you need to go. It is doubtful that in any situation that requires that you 'borrow' a plane that fuel pumps will be operational at your intermediate stops. Even if the automated pumps work, the credit card networks could be down. You might be able to siphon gas (more theft) from other parked planes bring. a self-priming siphon!) but to be safe you're going to have to carry full gas cans. Research into lead substitutes might be useful, though I'm unsure if any suitable products exist. Better perhaps to concentrate on planes that can burn automotive gasoline.
[JWR Adds: Tetraethyl lead (TEL) is sold under the trade name Octane Supreme 130 (and other names, sold at some General Aviation flight centers, FBOs, and at automotive speed shops.) It can be used, but it must be carried in a container that has a perfect seal, even with pressure changes. Do NOT carry it in an aircraft passenger compartment. Parenthetically, there is "TEL Tale" in the biography of Charles Lindbergh. A leaky cap on a large can of TEL stowed behind his seat once almost killed him, while on a flying tour of South America. (He very nearly passed out and crashed.) Keep in mind that when used in ground vehicles, TEL will foul oxygen sensors very quickly, and of curse cannot be used in vehicles with catalytic converters. Its use would also violate Federal Clean Air standards, so it would not be legal for use on public highways. Keep in mind that TEL can be used to extend the useful life of "elderly" stored stabilized gasoline, as well as of course mixing your own high-octane blend from stored low-octane gas, so I recommend keeping a couple of bottles on hand.]
The second logistical problem is payload, and it is greatly affected by the fuel problem. Most light planes cannot safely carry a full load of passengers and bags plus a full load of fuel. If you're carrying jerry cans of gas, don't count on taking much in the way of baggage and there's no way you'll be able to fill every seat with a passenger. Most of the weight and balance calculations with regard to fuel, passengers and baggage can be worked out ahead of time though, so you'll know what you can pull off. In the end this will only work for someone who has pre-positioned their supplies [at their retreat.
This approach has advantages: Zero traffic jams. Zero river crossings. Zero chance of being looted on the highway. Again, I'm only suggesting this as a last-ditch SHTF way to get out of Dodge. I would not steal food if doing so could potentially cause someone else to starve. Same thing on a weapon, vehicle or any other item. But in my mind the the equation is simple here: My life is worth more than a flight school's airplane. In the end this is an extremely unlikely scenario, but it's an arrow in your quiver and a fun one to prepare for. - Matt R.
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It Will Be Skills, Not Gear That Will Count in TEOTWAWKI, by Chris M.
The topic I will cover is one I have not seen on SurvivalBlog. Everybody is caught up in the equipment side and not concentrating on the training. I have two examples several months back our dryer started squeaking & we had to stop using it. I am a trained air conditioning technician. At first I thought about going out and purchasing a new dryer and then I had a thought: I have fixed multi thousand dollar air conditioning units, how hard could it be? After two days it was back up drying clothes and for a lot less money than a new dryer would cost.
The other example was Saturday night a week ago I killed a feral hog and with some help from the friend that owns the land where I killed the pig, we quickly had it in the chest freezer. You ask, “how do these two examples apply to TEOTWAWKI preparedness?”
I am 50 years old; things I take for granted younger people do not understand or do not have the ability to do. Can you sharpen a knife? Can you tune a small engine? How about sharpen a chainsaw? I have been trained as an equipment mechanic and then trained as a HVAC tech. I have also taken first aid training, I am not an EMT but I know the basics. I have fixed several small appliances. My father was a carpenter. He taught me the basics of construction, such as how to build a wall and how to hang sheet rock. I had a small business that repaired rental properties in Texas.
Do you hunt? And are you planning on hunting to supplement your meat supply if not how do you expect to put meat in the freezer after TSHTF? By hunting you learn where to look for game. Small game hunting can teach you where to find rabbits and squirrels are at certain times of the year. Also when you make your first kill you will have a hands-on butchering class. You can not make a mistake that can not be repaired before it gets to the table. I remember the first feral pig a friend killed I was at my parents' house when a friend called and ask if I had butchered a hog? I said no but I have sure put enough deer in the ice chest that a pig could not be that hard.
I have also gar
dened quite a bit. When I was a child some of the first memories are of working in the garden. We did not raise all of our food but we raised a significant portion. We had a cow and chickens. I helped my mother can vegetables from the garden. I have caned tomatoes I have raised in my back yard. I can make my own soap. I also know where to get the lye with out going to the store. (Wood ashes).
What do you read? Back Home, Backwoods Home, and Mother Earth News magazines--although Mother Earth News is not as good as she once was. I keep all the Back Home and Backwoods Home that I pick up. I also found several books that will be passed on once I go to my final reward. I have books on a variety of topics from engine repair to gardening and other topics.
Do you reload the ammo you practice with? You can store more powder, primers and bullets in a given space than loaded ammo. Then when you shoot some you can reload to re-supply. Shotgun ammo is very economical when you reload. I would not suggest that you use reloaded ammo to defend yourself. Use store bought. I talked about the pig I killed a couple weeks back I used a Savage model 40 in 22 Hornet. The cartridge I used was reloaded and in fact was a case that had been reloaded several times. I have reloaded a variety of calibers and presently I can keep my guns shooting for awhile. I also cast lead bullets for a number of my guns and I am planning on getting a few more molds for different calibers. Also think about this I have in my gun safe a. 22 Hornet, .223 Remington and a .22-250. They all take 223 caliber bullets. I have bought a lot of .223 caliber bullets, mostly 55 grain weight. I can use the same bullet in all three. I also I am going to purchase a shot maker and will be able to produce shot for my own use and barter. I am stocking up on primers and bullets.
What do you watch on television? I watch Discovery and the Science channel. People talk about gas powdered tractors gasoline has a shorter shelf life than say diesel or propane for that matter. I have not seen propane discussed much on the blog for a motor fuel. Propane has a "forever" shelf life. Also, you can still find Ford Model 8 or 9N tractors that were powered by propane. As long as the propane did not leak out it was good and the tractors could sit idle for a long time and did not have to have the carburetor cleaned.
The reason I mentioned television shows is this one program I watched 2 to 3 years ago had a teams on an oceanic island. The team had to do some projects, one of which was they had a diesel powered go-cart. Both teams were given some sesames seeds and a machine that could make oil out of the seeds. The first team to start their go-cart and get it to run a course distance won the event. This got me to thinking that all trucks, generators, tractors should be diesel powered. You can make your own fuel!! The inventor of the Diesel engine was Dr. Rudolf Diesel, a German who envisioned a system where German farmers were not dependant on fuel sources that came from outside Germany! Remember the pig I killed? If it had been a survival situation. I would have rendered the fat to oil and could have used it in my truck and drove 20 or so miles or used it in a generator or plowed the garden with a tractor.
The upshot of the foregoing is that what you have in your hands is not as important as what you have between your ears. Learn all you can. Take classes at your local community college. Read all the preparedness’ magazine’s and books you can. Concentrate on survival skills. Learn to start fires without matches and to build a temporary shelters. Learn to maintain your car or truck, local community colleges are great places to learn vehicle repair and you can save money in the short run. Imagine if something broke and you needed it to survive. Could you fix it? Stockpile spare parts for the most important items. Ford 8 of 9n tractors are great and look simple. But if the clutch went out, could you replace it? I have done that and it’s not as easy as you might think. Repair manuals are not an option, in my thinking. They are a must.
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Two Letters Re: Walking Tractors and Similar Powered Farming Implements
James,
I just wanted to respond to the recent article on small tractors. In
1981 my wife and I bought 12 acres and started market gardening, selling
produce locally. I grew about 3 acres of produce each year and put up hay
for animals.
Our first big investment at the time was a BCS 725 machine with the tiller
and sickle-bar mower attachments. We used that machine, and used it hard.
Today it's 2009 and I just finished cutting hay and putting in my green bean
patch, using that 725. It's still on the original engine, which has never
been rebuilt, only annual oil changes for the last 27 years. It no longer starts
on the first
pull, these days it starts on the second pull each time, but guess I can't
complain too loud about that.
In my life I must admit I've made very few incredibly good investments, but
that Model 725 is definitely one of them. It's saved me untold labor and
has just simply worked for 27 years without a bit of trouble. It's like an
old
Ford
8N, it just keeps running and doing what it's supposed to do. Old farm equipment
was made to last forever, the BCS machines are farm equipment, not cheap
consumer toys. The price reflects it, but from my opinion they're a bargain
in the long
run. Highly recommended. - Bobalu
Hello Mr. Rawles,
Regarding the recent letters on micro-farm tractors, I have another viewpoint
for your consideration.
In addition to the Troy-Bilt Horse rear tine tiller and other tools scaled
for 1-2 acres, I have also purchased a larger farm tractor to better suit the
conditions in and around my retreat. The recent letter mentioned Ford 9Ns
and Farmalls. While these are still very common and many 9Ns are still
in service, they are of 1940s-1950s vintage. My personal choice was a
Massey Ferguson 100 series diesel tractor (135 or 165, for example). These
were built between the mid-1960s to the mid-1970s, and have decades
of excellent service history with much information available online (for you
to save on paper now).
There were several factors leading me to this decision:
I obtained the tractor from a seller on Craigslist for a bargain price. This
allowed me to retain a budget for maintenance rather than blowing it all up
front on a new machine. While the peripheral systems needed attention, the
engine and transmission were rock solid. The Perkins Diesel engines are renowned
for reliability and durability. My updates and repairs serve two purposes:
Restoring the mechanical soundness of the machine and its systems, and forcing
me to become familiar with the repair and upkeep now. This is a mechanical
restoration only – it needs to work, not look good. Surprisingly, every
part that my 40 year old tractor has needed was both in stock and relatively
inexpensive. While it’s comforting to “gear up”, eventually
you will have to repair what you buy. Two years after TSHTF is not the ideal
time to start the learning curve on your life-sustaining equipment. An old
tractor you have mechanically zero-timed before the world comes to grief will
give years of reliable service, and you will have the experience of your earlier
work to guide future repairs.
While a larger tractor is overkill for a few acres, it is compatible with most
all the equipment on surrounding farms. 1960s and 1970s tractors
will have modern 3-point hitches with the ability to add additional hydraulics.
The Massey-Ferguson 165, at 53 horsepower, can run a myriad of equipment that
might overtax a smaller tractor. In addition to your own needs, you will have
the option of volunteering to help your neighbor prepare his field or bring
in his crop, using your extra muscle and standard 3-point hookups. That would
be a Grade-A trade for food, fuel, or assistance when you need it, as opposed
to showing up with a shovel and asking “what can I do to help?”
A larger tractor will also turn and disk your two acres in a hurry! I have
collected smaller 3 point hitch equipment, like a two-bottom moldboard turning
plow and
a disk harrow, very inexpensively. The equipment is old, but made of such heavy
steel that it still has decades of life left in it. Another barter option is
to quickly prepare ground for other small-scale neighbors that may have purchased
less durable equipment. Attempting to till up hard, fallow ground, even with
a rear-tine tiller, is tough on the equipment and the person. Your tractor
with plow and harrow would make short work of that fallow ground, allowing
the rear-tine tiller to finish much more quickly and without the mechanical
abuse.
The other posts mentioned diesel-engined ATVs.
I respectfully submit that this may be a case of can rather than should. While
you can pull a disk
or maybe even a small all-purpose plow, the machine simply does not have the
tractor-like durability to stake your family’s future on using the ATV
as a tractor long-term. By the time you have bought a rare diesel ATV with
ATV-specific implements, you might as well have bought an older, real tractor
with standard 3-point implements for the money. Remember, from a duty cycle
perspective (if I may anthropomorphize), I’d want my tractor to think: “wow,
that was only two acres” as opposed to the ATV thinking: “Wow,
that was two acres!”
On the issue of noise, I agree that a stock machine can be heard a ways off.
However, the noise can be significantly reduced by using non-standard exhausts.
If your goal is to prevent advertisement of your activity, it is time well
spent to install a series of mufflers which will deaden the roar of a working
engine. That slight drop in horsepower might be worth the relative quiet. This
is true of your rear tine tiller as well as any other equipment. As an example,
I have an old Onan generator with a high volume double muffler that some guys
at a muffler shop helped me rig up. I can stand right next to the thing while
it’s running, and carry on a conversation with only slightly raised voices.
Thank you for your efforts, Mr. Rawles! - J.I.C.
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Letter Re: Walking Tractors and Similar Powered Farming Implements
When I saw the Basic Utility Vehicle (BUV) mentioned in SurvivalBlog, I couldn’t
help but notice how similar it was to the rigs used by a lot of farmers in
Thailand
(and I would assume a lot of other places in Asia). When traveling around Thailand
I couldn’t help but notice what appeared to be effectively motorized
donkeys. Men had them rigged to trailers.
A little research showed that they are known as “Walking Tractors”,
are made all over the planet, the and serve the same function as the BUV. One
thing that I like about the idea of using them is their interchangeability
of parts.
Assuming
your trailer gets hit by a truck, your tractor is still good. If your tractor
is breaks down, you attach your trailer to a mule.You can hook
up, plows, trailers, tillers, and every other sort of thing you may find useful
on a tractor
Some Images of Walking Tractors:
There is one in here that has a nice image of some guys hauling logs using
them
Clear image of a trailer for Walking Tractors
Regards, - Jeff C.
JWR Replies: These next two items were first posted in the
early days of SurvivalBlog (circa October, 2005) regarding rear-tine tiller/tractors
and
ATVs:
The Micro-Farm Tractor, by "Fanderal"
My goal, like so many of us, is to be able to pre-bugout, to a retreat I
can live on full time. I dream of having a few acres out in the country where
I can mostly support myself on what can be produced on my own land. When I
first started to think about it, and plan for it, the first question of course
is “How much land?” After getting past the obvious answer, “As
much as possible”, came the more reasonable answer of: “enough
to do accomplish my primary goal of optimal self-sufficiency.” After
more study I came to realize that five or so acres is about all I could really
work. Five acres, when worked intensively, will produce far more than a family
of four can consume. This five acres would contain everything, House, Barn,
a one to two acre garden, chickens, Rabbits, Goats, et cetera.
So having settled on five to seven acres, I turned to the issue of what tools,
equipment, and other assets would be needed to make my micro-farm work. Beyond
the usual hand tools. And shop tools, my research led me to study power equipment
appropriate for the Micro-Farm. What I found was the Two-Wheel, or "Walk-behind" Tractor.
A good example of the class is the BCS 852 with a 10 horsepower diesel engine.
It has a single cylinder engine mounted in front of a trans axle. The Trans
axle drives a pair of wheels that are from 3.5 to 6.5 inches wide, and 8 to
12 inches in diameter. It is also equipped with front and rear Power Takeoffs
(PTOs) used to transfer power to
a variety of implements. For me this is the optimum retreat utility tractor.
To justify that statement I need to go into a bit more detail as to why. As
with all things, this selection is based on my plans and intentions, but I
believe that they are generic enough to qualify as a general solution for most
people, but as always Your Mileage may Vary (YMMV).
The factors I am taking into consideration are:
Size of Farm.
Number of people available to work it.
Safety
Maintainability
Fuel availability/economy
Life expectancy under the projected load
The truth is most of us have not, or will not be able to acquire more than
five to 10 acres of land. If you can get more, fine, get it; you can’t
have too much land, but you can leave yourself short on other things by buying
more land than you really need, or can work.
In most cases the garden will be run by just one or two people, either because
of off farm employment or the kids may be grown and gone before you make the
move. People that are already doing this will tell you that one to two acres,
if worked as intensively as is reasonably possible is all one person can handle.
If you have more land, then you have the option of bartering produce, for labor
to work more acres. But I would still keep it in two-acre units.
The core concept of survivalism/preparedness is independence; you can’t
be independent if you can’t do most, if not all the maintenance yourself.
While yes, most anyone with any mechanical aptitude at all can work on most
regular tractors, however they have four times as many cylinders, fuel injectors,
and fuel lines, twice as many tires, use much more fuel, and mostly are too
much tool for two to five acres.
When the world ends there will be no more fuel deliveries from
anywhere, and if there are then they will be prohibitively expensive. So you
need a fuel
that you can produce yourself, to me this means biodiesel.
It’s a fuel you can make yourself; it will substitute directly into the
tank with no modifications to the engine, and gives almost
exactly the same performance, as regular diesel.
So with these concepts in mind I started thinking about what the ideal tool
would be. I eliminated most regular four wheeled tractors like the Ford 9N
and the International Harvester (IH) Farmalls because to buy one of their modern
counterparts new is very expensive, and to find parts for older ones that you
can buy on the cheap can also be expensive. While there has been a lot of development
in compact and subcompact tractors in the last few years, they are mostly compact
technical wonders that have all kinds of computerized fuel injection systems,
high volume, high pressure hydraulics, and just lots and lots of things that
need to be maintained or fixed. Simplicity is crucial.
My search for information about small farm tractors, as with most things today,
started online. I started from the position that a Walk-behind Tractor would
be the optimum choice because on the surface it met two of the most important
criteria, Fuel requirements, and maintainability. The most important question
remained, how much land could be worked with it and still expect it to last
a lifetime.
Dean M., one of my online sources, who has actually been running a Market Garden
since 1989, says that much of that time was spent downsizing his garden to
it’s current 1.5 acres. According to Dean,one to two acres is about all
one person can work, when trying to maximize the production of a garden. The
general consensus is, that the limit on how large a garden you could work with
one of these machines,is really set by how much labor was available, rather
than the capacity of the machine. To answer that question I needed input from
an expert. In my web search I found many companies that make and sell this
kind of equipment, but they are almost
all overseas. Of the domestic companies most only sell Walk-behinds
as a sideline. I found Earth Tools, a company in Owenton, Kentucky, which specializes
in small-scale commercial
agriculture equipment. Joel Dufour founded Earth Tools in 1977, and all they
sell is Walk-behind tractors. .
I asked Mr. Dufour about the capability, capacity, and requirements of walk
behind tractors for a TEOTWAWKI scenario. He recommended
not the largest one he sells, the 948 but rather the model 852, which comes
with an optional 10 hp diesel engine. He says the 852s are far more versatile
than the 948. Based on what his customers are actually doing with the units,
and have been doing for nearly 30 years he gave me the following information
about capabilities, and requirements of these units.
You can work up to two acres of Market garden per person, and/or about 15 acres
of Haying for livestock. With proper preventative maintenance, used in a commercial
agricultural operation, a tractor like he sells will last 20+ years. They can
haul up to one ton on a two-wheel trailer. Depending on the specific task,
running 8 hrs on a gallon of fuel is possible. He has several customers that
make their own biodiesel and run their 852s on it, and have reported no problems.
When it comes to maintenance requirement the diesel engines are designed for
5,000 hours TBO (Time Between Overhauls), and are meant to be rebuilt twice
before replacing crankshafts or connecting rods. That means that the engines
have a 15,000 hr life span minimum (with proper maintenance). For routine maintenance
they only use 1.5 quarts of oil per change, which needs to be done every 75
ours or annually--whichever comes first. The oil filter is cleanable and the
air filter is replaceable. The conical clutch lasts 1,000 – 2,000 hrs,
and can be replaced in less than 2 hrs. All maintenance, including overhauls
can be done with regular hand tools, the only exception being one $25 tool
for working on the transmission if it’s ever needed.
One point that Mr. Dufour thinks is undersold is safety. He pointed out that
one of the most common fatal accidents on a farm is a tractor rollover. When
operating one of these units on a slope, even if you were on the downhill side
of the machine, and you couldn’t get out of the way, they only weight
about 300 lbs, so it is very unlikely you would suffer a life threatening injury.
Where as with even the smallest of standard tractors if it rolls over on you,
death is the very likely outcome.
So let’s look at how these machines match my original
requirements:
Size of Farm:
A 10 HP machine will work as much land as most of us will be able to get, and
work, without being too big for the job.
Number of people available to work the land:
The constraint is number of people vs. planting/harvesting schedule; again
it is well matched to the 5 to 15 acres, with which most of us will wind up.
Maintainability:
There is nothing that the owner can’t do on these machines, from routine
maintenance to a complete overhaul, which would require more than basic mechanics
hand tools, and one inexpensive specialty tool.
Safety: I don’t care how much the machine can do or how well it does
it, the one thing that you absolutely cannot afford in the post-TEOTWAWKI world,
is an injury. So the machine that is least likely to cause me harm is way up
on my list
Fuel availability/economy:
These units can be had with Gas, or Diesel engines. Gas engines can be run
on alcohol with modification. Diesel engines can be run on biodiesel without
modification.
Life expectancy under the projected load:
You can work as much acreage as you have time and people to work without over
working the tractor. They are truly an agricultural grade machines, not glorified
Home duty units.
While I’m not trying to sell this particular tractor, however if we use
its characteristics as a baseline then I think it is fare to say that a diesel
Walk-behind Tractor would make an ideal vehicle for a Micro-farm. It is the
core power unit for almost all farm tasks, can be adapted to do just about
anything else that requires up to 10 HP; from electrical generation to pumping
water, with the right connection to the PTO. It also meets or exceeds the core
requirements that I laid out at the beginning. This is not to say that there
might not be other machines that would also work, but if you are starting from
scratch like most of us, then this is a good objective solution.
Related info:
http://www.earthtoolsbcs.com/
http://www.chelseagreen.com/1989/items/neworganicgrower
http://www.bcsshop.com/
http://www.adriatica-grifo.it/g/main.htm
JWR Adds:
From the standpoint of a small acreage survival retreat, a walk-behind
tiller/tractor makes a lot of sense. When the Schumer hits the fan,
fuel will be at a premium, so it is logical to get something that will give
you maximum useful work with minimum fuel consumption. And as Fanderal mentioned,
they will also minimize tractor rollover accidents. This is especially important
at a retreat with a lot of newbies. (Just because you are accustomed
to thinking "safety first" at all times doesn't mean that your recently-transplanted
Big City friends and cousins will be!)
If you need to cultivate significantly larger acreage, then a full-size tractor
makes sense, but only of course with significantly more training and more voluminous
fuel storage. BTW, the new "crawler" (rubber tracked) tractors
have a lower center of gravity that traditional wheeled tractors and hence
are much less prone to rollovers.
I used a gas engine Troy-Bilt Horse tiller for several years and found it
very reliable. The BCS products are made in Milan, Italy. At a list price of
$3,799, these are not cheap. But if you go with the principle of "buying
something sturdy and reliable once, versus buying something flimsy,
multiple times", then this sort of purchase makes sense. To get the most
for your money, shop around for a slightly used, diesel-powered unit.
One other consideration: Tractors are noisy and can be heard from a long
distance. Wear hearing protection whenever operator a tractor or tiller. In
a post-TEOTWAWKI survival situation, this may mean one individual wearing earmuffs
operating the tractor, and another individual that is concealed 50 to 100 yards
away, on dedicated security duty. (Otherwise, operating noisy equipment
like a tractor or chainsaw might be a noisy invitation to get bushwhacked.)
Here are some additional useful URLs:
http://www.groworganic.com/item_GT034_.html
http://www.wikco.com/bcsfeaturesg.html
Here was a letter in reply:
Jim:
In response to the excellent article, "The Micro-Farm Tractor",
I have to say my best bet for all-around small farm tool would be the diesel
all terrain vehicle (ATV).
ATVs have quickly infiltrated into many farms today, as haulers, sprayers,
snowplows, transport, and so on. You can purchase
many available farm accessories that make it into the equivalent of a mini-tractor,
as well has many hunting related accessories, since they appeal to the hunter's
market as well, like gun racks, camo, storage, and essential noise-cutting
mufflers (very effective units can be had at Cabela's). I would suggest a
diesel unit, since they are longer lasting, more reliable, and you can use
stored (for several years with proper preservation) or improvised diesel
(biodiesel.) I was out elk hunting last year in foul weather and I
immediately saw the advantage hunters had getting around in the muck with
an ATV. If we had actually taken an elk, we would have had to spend all weekend
hauling pieces of it out! (In a way we were glad we didn't get one where
we were hunting, seven miles down a mucky old road, with steep hills to the
right and a steep ravine to the left). With an ATV, we could have gotten
a whole animal out in one or two goes, with a lot less slogging in the muck.
Just make sure you've got a winch, and maybe even a come-along. Also, many
of the hunters were able to cruise with an ATV on trails that would (and
have) gotten me stuck in the mud. To sum it up, I plan on purchasing one
or two as soon as our move to a few acres of rural property in southern utah
is completed early next year to use as my mini-tractor, hunting companion,
snow plow, all-around hauler and 4 wheel drive short distance transport.
- Dustin
JWR Replies: In addition to biodiesel, you can also
legally use home heating oil if operating off road. (The only significant
differences between diesel and home heating oil are the "no tax cheating" added
dye and the standard for ash content.) There are several options for diesel-powered
ATVs. These include:
The
Kawasaki Mule.
and,
The John Deere
Gator.
(The U.S. Army Special Forces uses John Deere Gators, but I'm not sure if
that's because they are the best ones made, or just because of a "Buy
American" contracting clause.
Note: Polaris also made a diesel quad back around 2002, but they were reportedly
problematic, so they were quickly discontinued.
« Wood, the Alternative Energy for the Rest of Us, by Bill S. |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Learning to Cook on a Wood-Fired Stove by Deborah
When my companion and I began our 18-month transition period of moving to and
living in the woods, we also began a period of education. We discussed and
planned much. We bought books and magazines and took classes on everything
from solar collecting to gardening.
One subject evaded me: cooking on a wood-burning stove. Every time I saw a
magazine that flashed headlines on wood stoves, my hands would tremble in anticipation
as I reached for it. However, the wood stoves in question were for heating,
not for cooking.
Since we were looking at a self-sufficient lifestyle and wood on our 160 acres
was virtually free, there wasn't even a consideration to use anything but wood
for heating and cooking. Our land is approximately 95 percent maple, a steady
source of excellent quality hardwood. Labor intensive yes, but since we were
quitting our jobs, we had the time.
Initially, we tried to find a real antique stove for our kitchen. Since the
20' by 24' kitchen/dining/living room was to be the main focus of our new house,
we wanted the stove not only to be functional but attractive as well. The antique
stoves we found were either attractive but of questionable functionality, or
functional and downright ugly.
Deborah's wood-fired cook stove
We bit the bullet and bought a brand-new, old-fashioned looking Enterprise
King from Lehman's (if you ever have the chance to visit there, do it!). To
this day, I'm glad we spent the extra money. Not that there aren't good old
stoves out there, but we never found one.
Our stove has a warming oven overhead, a tip-down butter warmer, a washable
porcelain clad oven with thermostat and an optional water jacket. The firebox
has a side lifter lid and easily takes a 20-inch log. And it looks good.
But I still didn't know how to cook on it.
Being an experienced cook (translation: I love to cook), I figured I was tough.
I was smart! I was inventive! I was lost. So I learned the hard way, by trial
and error, lots of practice and even more patience. I've burned a few things,
but only because I wasn't paying attention.
The functioning of the stove is really quite simple. They will last for generations
with proper care, since there is so little that can go wrong with them.
One end has a firebox, and outside the firebox are vents. Mine has four "dials" which
regulate how much air is fed to the fire. The more you open the vents, the
hotter the fire. The ash door can also be opened for a surge of air, but this
needs to be watched very carefully.
There is a sliding mechanism towards the back of the firebox. This diverts
the smoke coming from the fire to go around the oven box before it escapes
up the chimney. This heats the oven more consistently. The position of the
slide unit is most important before lighting the stove.
Because a draft needs to be created when first firing up, the slide needs to
be directed to the chimney. The positioning for my stove is to the right to
light, to the left to bake. If you forget to reposition the slide, the result
will be a roomful of smoke.
You can't set it at 350 ยบ and walk away! The biggest challenge is keeping the
oven heat even. Unlike a gas or electric stove, when you put something in the
oven to cook and the temperature drops as the food absorbs the heat, nothing
kicks in to compensate. What to do? Feed the fire wood that will burn quickly
and offer more heat.
As the food begins to cook and its internal temperature rises, a longer, slower-burning
piece of wood will maintain the heat. Open the oven door if it gets too hot
- but not for long. Your oven may even have "hot spots" like mine.
During baking, I turn bread or cookies 180 degrees halfway through the baking
time. Stay in the kitchen when there is cooking to be done. In winter, it's
the best place to be.
Range top cooking is similar to a gas or electric stove, but you have more
room available. The entire surface is hot, not just four little burners.
No, those circles are not burners, as I once thought.
The surface area can be divided into three major temperature zones. The hottest
is right over the firebox, whether it is on the right or left. The next warmest
would be in the center, and the coolest is the front of the side opposite
the firebox. After the coffee perks over the firebox, it stays warm sitting
on
a far corner.
Everything needs to be watched carefully, as the heat can drop or flare in
a very short time. Don't be discouraged. Once you get used to the heat always
being there (it doesn't shut off with the twist of a knob), cooking on a
wood stove is easy
Grilling takes some patience, but it can be done. You can get pretty good
results by removing one of those little circles over the firebox and placing
a heat-resistant
grate over the flame. I use half of a hamburger basket meant for grilling.
I also lay aluminum foil around the opening to keep splatters to a minimum.
Since most barbecuing is done inches above hot coals, some adjustment is
necessary. I let flames do the grilling rather than coals. Since the grate
is so much
further from the heat, I use a hotter fire.
The cleaning and care you give your wood stove is important. Most cook stoves
have three types of surfaces. There is cast iron, porcelain or enamel-finished
sheet metal and decorative trim. A wet rag or sponge wiped daily on the
decorative trim should suffice. For baked-on spots, a bit of non-abrasive
cleanser like
Soft-Scrub works very well. Prevention is the best approach to cleaning.
Avoid spilling or splashing, since you can't wipe it up right away.
Don't put a wet pot on the stove. Remember, the surface is cast iron and
will rust, even when hot. The least of your cleaning worries will be the
rust ring,
but the worst will be the ring underneath the rust that is there forever.
Spots that are left on too long will pit the cast iron. By first taking
a razor blade
to spills, you can scrape up lots of gunk and save your buffing pad and
shoulder.
Scotch Brite Very Fine is a metal sanding pad that is unsurpassed for cleaning
even the toughest spots on cast iron surfaces. Always buff back and forth
in one direction, from front to back, or you will get a scratched look.
Always let the surface cool before buffing, or you will melt the cleaning
pad.
Once the entire surface has been buffed, use a soft flannel cloth and wipe
a thin layer of cooking oil over the whole surface. This seasons the top
and makes it easier to clean the next day.
A word of caution: The oil has to be spread thinly. I've used too much,
and when I lit the stove the next morning, the kitchen smelled like cooking
popcorn.
When necessary, you will need to wipe down the metal back splash and warming
oven. Warm, soapy water or a non-abrasive cleanser will do the trick. Clean
the soot from under the oven monthly in the summer and weekly in the winter
when the stove is constantly running. There is a small opening concealed
by a decorative nameplate directly under the oven. Use a long-handled scraper
to remove the blackish soot and hardened chunks. It's best to do this when
the stove is cool, or the draft will keep pulling the soot back in. Don't
forget
the sides of the ash compartment. Cinders don't always fall into the ash
pan.
One of the most overlooked areas for cleaning is the top of the oven box.
Remember, you keep diverting smoke around the oven. If enough ash collects
there, it
will have an insulating effect, and your oven won't heat properly.
A friend and neighbor (around here, a neighbor is anyone who lives less
than 10 miles away) complained that her recently purchased antique stove
was giving
her fits when she tried to maintain a steady temperature. I didn't hear
another complaint after making this suggestion: The cooking surface is
made up of
two to four panels of cast iron. Remove these panels when the stove is
cold and
set them on newspapers, as they are sooty.
This exposes the top of the oven box. The first time I did this was after
a year of cooking, and I had over two inches of ash. Carefully brush this
ash
into the firebox, where it can fall into the ash pan. Do this too quickly
and you'll raise an ash cloud.
Then take your long-handled scraper and scrape the sides of the oven box.
Soot will fall to the bottom, where it can be removed through that little
hidden
door. The whole process should take about 15 minutes, and it will make
a world of difference in your oven temperature. This cleaning should be
done
monthly
or bimonthly in the summer and weekly in the winter.
The gasket around the top of the stove should be carefully inspected every
year and replaced if it is too worn. I never concerned myself with the
gasket. Two and a half years later, there was no gasket left! My stove
had lost its
air tightness, and I hadn't even noticed.
Most stove gasket packages I've seen include 84 inches of material, but
my stove requires 100 inches. There is no loss of efficiency when material
is
pieced
together. Just scrape the old stuff off, lightly sand, wipe off, glue and
install the new gasket. This takes only 15 minutes and a few dollars, but
what a difference
it makes. Back when we started thinking about Y2K, we realized that it
would be wise to keep a few gaskets in storage. You never know if they'll
be available
in
a
few years.
Cast iron pots and pans are nice, but certainly not necessary for wood
stove cooking. Ceramic casserole dishes are great. Use common sense with
pots that
have plastic or wooden handles. Don't put anything into the oven that wouldn't
go into a conventional oven, and don't position handles over the cooking
area that you couldn't expose to a gas burner. Never put a plastic bowl
on the stove,
even if you think it's cold.
I purchased two pieces of cast iron cookware for $5 at an estate sale last
summer. They were valued at over $80 new in a catalog. The old pieces cleaned
up quickly and are among my favorites. One major advantage of cast iron
is that it stays hot. That might not seem like a big deal until you serve
a
pot of stew or spaghetti on a cool evening.
Use the warming oven to your advantage. I keep four plates (two meals)
and two soup bowls in my warmer. Having a pre-warmed plate at mealtime
can make
a big difference. I also have a biscuit stone (a terra cotta disk that
is heated and put in the bottom of a basket of biscuits or rolls) that
I rarely
remember
to heat up on time, so I just leave it in the bottom of the oven.
What I cook since we moved to the woods has changed, but that's because
we've changed the way we eat. We eat less meat and more home-grown vegetables,
more soups and bread. I now have the time to bake, and homemade, fresh-baked
bread
tastes like heaven. Soup is easy to simmer on the stove.
We have very little waste, because everything goes into a soup jar. This
is something every cook can do. If you open a can of mushrooms, pour the
juice
into a jar and freeze it. After you cook vegetables, pour that liquid into
the jar. I even save the liquid from soaking the roasting pan. To prevent
overeating, put the last few mouthfuls of veggies, rice or potatoes in
the soup jar. It
makes for some very interesting, economical, healthy and work-free soup.
For me, it's a conscientious thing to do, as I care about not wasting things.
Here in the Upper Peninsula, the weather is fairly cold all the time, so
the stove is always running except in mid-summer. The first thing I do
in the morning
is light the stove. While the kindling is catching, I feed Muffin, our
15-year old cat. Then I add three or four pieces of wood, light the kerosene
lamp,
check the temperature outside and add larger logs to the fire. Now it's
time to put the coffee pot over the fire box. Then it's back to the warmth
of
the bed. It takes about 20 minutes for the water to boil and another 20
minutes to perk. By the time the coffee is ready, the room is also warm.
I bake something almost every day. Since our refrigeration (an antique
ice box) is limited, I bake only one loaf of bread at a time. Cookies and
biscotti
are favorites around here. Dinner is usually started around 4 P.M., and
I let the fire go out. The coals are ready to be knocked down into the
ash
pan by
9:00. Since I don't want to mess with all the details when it's cold in
the morning, I lay a new fire, clear the stove top and fill the coffee
pot at
night. I'm ready for a new day.
Note: This article was first written more than 10 years ago. Here is an update:
the cat is gone, the companion is gone, but the stove and I are still together!
- Deborah in Michigan's Upper Peninsula
« Letter Re: Questions on EMP Protection |Main| Learning to Cook on a Wood-Fired Stove by Deborah »
Wood, the Alternative Energy for the Rest of Us, by Bill S.
Solar and wind electric generation systems are affordable and efficient, but
there are a many areas of the U.S. where wind systems are not feasible, and
few localized areas where solar systems are not feasible. A diesel
powered generator with a large underground tank is reliable, but under
adverse
conditions the tank could run dry. Fortunately there are two systems capable
of generating electric power with wood, a fuel readily available in most parts
of the country.
Gasification is a process of burning wood or other solid biomass in a specialized
combustion vessel (basically an upside-down wood stove) that generates hydrogen
and carbon monoxide (CO) gases as by-products of the high temperature combustion.
The exhaust gases can then be used to fuel an internal combustion engine. Gasifiers
were used across Europe during WWII to power tractors, trucks and buses when
gasoline was not available. The return of gasoline after the war caused gasification
to drop off the radar. A group of American pioneers have revived the technology
and made great strides in bringing this lost technology back to the market.
All
Power Labs in
California sells do-it-yourself kits and complete gasifier systems, known as
gasifier
experimenter's kits (GEKs). GEKs have been used to power cars and generators,
it is potentially a complete solution. GEKs are operating around the world.
GEKs
is an open source project, that is, the plans are free and users are encouraged
to experiment and share their knowledge. The design and operation of the gasifier
requires wood blocks/chips, pellets or similar sized fuel. Split firewood is
not an option when operating on a small scale.
The other option is small scale steam. Steam engines powered the industrial
revolution and were in use well after the advent of petroleum products and
the electrical grid. Mike
Brown in Missouri manufactures a range of small scale
steam engines, from 1-to-20 horsepower.
Operating a steam engine requires specialized knowledge and skills, steam is
dangerous in inexperienced hands. Mike Brown has a package of instructional
materials for sale and will insist you do your homework before purchasing of
one of his engines.
Steam engines require a boiler to generate the steam to drive the engine.
Boilers can be made from copper tubing and junkyard scrap for a few hundred
dollars
providing there is a metal worker in the neighborhood; plans and a how-to video
are available from Mike Brown. ASME-certified boilers are available in limited
quantities.
Both systems will generate electricity when gasoline, diesel and propane fuels
are unavailable, the sun isn't shining and the wind isn't blowing . These systems
are best suited for short term backup power or as a supplement to a solar/wind
system. Neither system is “off the shelf” ready, they both require
back yard engineering skills and American ingenuity Both systems require a
stock of wood or other solid fuel to operate for any extended time. They both
require tending and maintenance. Relying on steam or gasification for a year-round
supply of electricity for a retreat is unrealistic in most cases . Note however
that life in the future may become very unrealistic.
But will these systems power a retreat? If you had a 3 hp steam system the
answer is yes. I did some rough calculations; in which I could be off by ±25%.
I am assuming a battery bank for storage. A 3 hp system steaming for 6 hours
per day for a month would generate approximately 400 KW. For comparison, 400
KW is less than one half of what the average American household uses in a month,
but far
more
than
most solar or wind systems will generate. We get by on less than 400 KW per
month and the retreat is all electric, including hot water, range and refrigerator
and I run many power tools in the shop. 400 KW is a huge amount of electricity
in terms of the creature comforts it can provide. Under emergency conditions
100 KW/month would drive a well pump, laptop, lights, radios and cell phone
chargers.[JWR Adds: Don't forget that when drawing DC power
from a battery bank, that inversion to AC with a modern inverter is about 80%
efficient in typical use, and they can be about 90% efficiency under optimal
conditions. To
understand
the concepts of kilowatts and kilowatt hours (KWh), see
Wikipedia.)
If oak were used for fuel it would take 13 cords of firewood per year (that
is a lot of wood). At $225 per cord it would cost approximately $3,000
per year plus many hours of manual labor. This is not what the modern American
considers
convenience, but under lock-down conditions you may be the only one within
100 miles that is powered up after a week. Under emergency conditions you will
be at home with enough time on your hands to stoke the fire every hour. I have
not done a similar analysis of the gasifier. A gasifier is a very efficient
use of biomass, I would expect you can achieve much the same results as a steam
system. GEK users will be happy to share what they know.
Gasifier
Pros: Technically within the range of the do-it-yourselfer. Will power many
internal combustion engines. Will burn chipped/blocked wood and forest scrap,
walnut shells and more. Waste heat from the gasifier and IC engine can be used
to heat water (which can be used to heat a home). The exhaust gas from the
IC engine is water vapor and there is no smoke, the smoke has been converted
to a combustible gas.
Cons: Requires small, consistent-sized fuel such as dry wood chips. Generates
carbon monoxide (CO), a deadly gas although this gas can be used to fuel an
outdoor stove. Cannot be installed within a living space (same with steam).
Limited
supply,
however
plans are free and a gasifier can be built with scrap steel and junkyard parts
by any welder/metal worker.
Cost: Approximately $1,000-3,000 (not including engine, generator or storage
batteries).
Steam Engine
Pros: The most reliable and simple of backup systems. Quiet. Steam can be used
for multiple purposes including space and water heating and making bio-fuels,
including alcohol. Can be powered with both solid and liquid fuels.
Cons: Requires a good bit of self-study. Potentially hazardous. Limited source
of supply for engines and boilers although both should last a lifetime and
be worth their weight in silver should it come to that.
Cost: Approximately $7,000 for 3 hp engine and boiler (not including generator
or storage batteries), the greater part of the cost for a manufactured boiler.
Steam engines are precision machines available in limited quantities. Cost
aside, it could be months before you take delivery, but remember patience is
a virtue. If time and money is of the essence then the GEK is the best bet;
a team of garage mechanics could have a GEK up and running in a week. GEKs
can be manufactured from plans without royalties, potentially a great business
opportunity.
« Mexican Flu Update: |Main| Three Letters Re: Stocking Up on Prescription Medicines »
Letter Re: Prince of Wales Island, Alaska as a Retreat Locale?
Sir:
I understand your
comments on Alaska's [poor] potential for survival retreats .Your
logic is sound and I have to take seriously someone who has thought about these
issues longer than
I have. But
there is always a but...What about Prince of Wales Island, Alaska? Backwoods
Home magazine
published an article written by a Jon Stram that I have not got out of mind.
The article sold Prince of Wales Island very well, so [for counterbalance]
I need an unbiased, expert opinion Thank
you, - Russell:
JWR Replies: You aren't the first to suggest that locale
to me. it. I must admit, that as Alaska goes, it is captivating and has one
of the
best climates.
The island is bigger than Delaware!. In my estimation,
it would be a
fine
place
to be during an economic depression comparable to the 1930s, but not in
a full scale collapse where it would be isolated from transport--especially liquid
fuels.
(Chainsaws, power boats, generators, float planes, and snow machines "no
worky".)
There are 6,000+ people
on the island. That is a lot of people for an island with essentially no
large scale agriculture, especially when there is no gasoline,
diesel, propane, or kerosene available. The accessible four-legged wild game would
probably
be cleaned
out in short order. After that, things might get ugly. In an absolute worst
case, your neighbors might start hunting two-legged game.
« Two Letters Re: My Experiment with a Field Gear Invention |Main| Letter Re: Adapting Family Food Storage for Gluten Intolerance »
Letter Re: Home and Ranch Methane Gas Generators
Jim:
I saw the following post concerning Gober ("dung") gas, dated 27 April, 2009,
over at Michael
Yon's web site:.
"During breaks from tracking training – I was sweating like crazy
in the jungle heat – I asked many questions about Afghanistan and Nepal,
and he talked about a simple way to make many of the Afghans lives easier. Most
Afghans don’t even have electricity. When he was about fifteen years-old,
his dad installed a “Gobar Gas” (methane) generator next to the
house in Nepal. The generator is simple: the owner just collects human and
animal waste, and through a fantastically simple process, the contraption creates
methane, which is then used for lighting, cooking, heating in the winter. It
also creates excellent fertilizer, all while improving sanitation. What’s
the catch? None that I’ve heard of. He said that his dad made the first
Gobar Gas system in his village, and today it would costs maybe $300 total
investment. Between their own toilet and four cows, they create enough methane
to cook, heat and light the house. More than two decades after his dad made
it, the thing is still working and doesn’t cost a single rupee to operate.
When the other villagers saw it work, hundreds of Gobar Gas systems popped
up around the village. I’ve seen these systems in use in Nepal, and photographed
one about five years ago. It worked like a charm. But this Nepalese man, a
British soldier, never saw a Gobar Gas system in Afghanistan, but he is certain
that the idea would take hold in the villages. My guess is that the only real
disadvantage is that the idea is incredibly effective, simple and cheap, and
so we probably wouldn’t want to get involved."
Wikipedia has an entry on Gober
Gas.
Regards, - Larry
JWR Replies: The usual safety (for piped explosive gasses)
rules apply, and of course the usual sanitation rules must be enforced, but
this looks like
a great set-up for anyone that keeps livestock. Aunty
Entity would be proud.
« Letter Re: Highly Productive Home Gardens |Main| Note from JWR: »
Cooper's Color Codes and Bugging Out Before the SHTF, by H.I.C.
Colonel Jeff Cooper once wrote that he was born in another country. Born and
raised in the US before the Great Depression, the country of his youth was
no longer.
It had been hijacked by pointy headed socialists with academic degrees and
not a trace of common sense. At 50 years of age I not only agree, but maintain
that the “New America” based upon a globalized economy, Federalized
powers, and an Urban-centered society is dying. Our great country is dying
and our great cities will burn in the funeral pyre.
Most Americans know that survival in our great cities, deserts, and marginal
climate areas of the US would not be possible without continued delivery of
basic Supplies (food and gasoline), Services (water, electrical power, natural
gas), and Civil Order (rule of law, generally accepted currency). What they
may not know is that these great cities have no great food warehouses, no great
fuel tank farms, few electrical power plants, few water storage reservoirs,
and they have disarmed the law abiding public at every turn. These supplies
are transported by thousands of semi trucks, ships, barges, and trains every
single day. If a sudden crisis disrupts transportation, if we lose the use
of our interstate highways or the diesel fuel to transport supplies, everyone
in these cities will either have to leave or they will die.
Recent hurricanes, recessions, and terrorist events are reminders that our
modern society is fragile and that critical supplies, services, and civil order
will likely be interrupted by any major event. Look at what happened to New
Orleans (population 480,000) during Hurricane Katrina. More than half the
population left early, but when the storm hit, tens of thousands either would
not or could
not leave. Now imagine these barbaric conditions in a city like Phoenix
(population 2 million) or Los Angeles (population 10 million). Now imagine
it happening all across
the US if our oil refineries are either destroyed or the world runs out of
crude oil.
Transportation in the US is totally dependent on crude oil and most of this
oil comes from folks who hate us. The supplies underground and our ability
to find new supplies are diminishing and no one knows how much is left. Even
without the potential for a renewed terrorist attack using WMDs, or the long
dreaded west coast mega-quake, our cities will not be sustainable without some
new technology. Renewable power sources such as solar, wind, and geothermal
can produce electricity but do not effectively power transportation. Hopefully
most Americans can be sufficiently motivated to move out the cities with their
families, but those who will not listen must feel.
Should I Stay or Should I Go?
I think it is a common belief by newly awaken survivalist that they can keep
living in a big city until the stuff actually hits the fan and then bug out
with their vehicle and all of the survival gear and prepared food. I am curious,
have any of you actually tried this? Have you taken the time and effort to
load your vehicle with thousands of pounds of guns, ammo, survival gear, and
freeze dried food? Have you then driven through a major city, a long distance
interstate trip, stopped for the night, or had car trouble? And what if you
are forced to bug out without shelter and a considerable amount of food, have
you really improved your chances for survival?
I have and the whole process was a pain in the . I hooked up my one ton
pickup to my 5th wheel trailer, filled it with the guns, ammo, tools, extra
fuel, and food storage, and the rig grossed at 18,000 lbs. Let me tell you
this was not bugging out, this was crawling out. Even powered by a Cummins
Diesel, nothing weighing 9 tons moves quickly or escapes over steep or narrow
roads. I also tried towing an open trailer filled with a tractor and tools
cross country and learned about road trash puncturing trailer tires and criminals
loitering at rest stops and RV parks.
Fortunately, these problems surfaced during normal times when the highways
are open, fuel is available, and I was
the only one freaking out. My experience is telling me that the best response
is to move away from the cities before an event. Move to a more secure area
now. Preposition your survival tools and food storage at a secure site before
the stuff really hits the fan. Then find a way to move there your self.
I have read all the government’s emergency preparedness books talking
about folks pulling together, one big nation singing Kumbaya. But I have
also read the postings from folks who were late evacuating New Orleans. Many
of them were threatened, robbed, and assaulted by their neighbors simply because
they were better prepared. I do not know if this entitlement mentality is really
that widespread, but experience suggests that Americans will get scared and
will act like animals.
Deciding When to Leave; Cooper’s Colors for a Social Crisis.
Jeff Cooper also devised a series of situational awareness colors to allow
his self defense students to make proper decisions and know when to use deadly
force
to protect
their lives and family. Borrowing Cooper’s Colors for a social crisis
I suggest the following:
Condition White) Circa 1981-1988: Following the Vietnam war, Watergate, and
the Iran hostage crisis, the US was ready for a positive change. During the
Reagan years we challenged the Soviet Union and emerged as the world’s
lone supper power. Despite some evidence to the contrary, we felt that we had
no reason to be concerned by terrorism. Paul Volcker tamed inflation by inducing
a severe recession. We all shared the economic pain, then we shared the rewards
of a growing and stable economy combined with low inflation. Social changes
were being made slowly and with participation from the general public. The
Government rarely took violent actions against protesters. Crime was random
and quickly dealt with by law enforcement.
Tough times, but the US government was working for the People.
Condition Yellow) Circa 1989-1998: The US is struck repeatedly by terrorists
at home and abroad. The Government treats this as a criminal manner. The economy
fluctuates but appears to correct itself rapidly and without visible government
interference. The US starts pursuing free trade and globalization treaties.
Manufacturing, agricultural, and finally high wage jobs are being outsourced.
High risk mortgages and investments are legalized and encouraged. Presidents
Bush (I) and Clinton start talking about and building a “New World Order”.
Social changes are being made to protect and benefit the people in power, without
participation from the general public. The Government begins to track, infiltrate,
and take deadly action against small religious groups and grass roots militias.
Law abiding citizens are blamed for violent crime and gun ownership is highly
regulated. The only bright spot during this decade is the results of the 1994
midterm election and the subsequent Contract with America.
A break of trust between the US Government and the People. Citizens should
store guns, ammo, food, and fuel. Prepare financially, physically, and mentally
for
change.
Condition Orange) Circa 1999-2006: The US is struck repeatedly by terrorists
at home and abroad. The Government responds by aggressive military action designed
to change the conditions in countries hosting terrorists. The economy fluctuates
between extremes of growth and recession, as if no one knows the true worth
of these commodities and major corporations. The Government begins to spend
massive amounts of money on the war and hides this spending off budget. Price
increases affect the availability of food and fuel. Social changes are being
made without participation of the citizens or even the US Congress. The most
offensive of these changes are rammed down the throat of a disbelieving public
by the courts and petty bureaucrats. The heavy handed tactics of the State
and Federal Government begin expanding the number and boldness of protest groups,
well ahead of their attempts to control them. Crime is increasingly organized
by gangs, carried out by minors and illegal aliens, and is funded by illegal
drugs. Law enforcement is not effective against this and many believe the problem
is intractable.
A second break of trust. Citizens should liquidate their financial assets,
purchase and store critical supplies and solar panels, and move to safer locations.
Condition Red) Circa 2007 – ????: High risk loans, derivatives, and credit
default swaps cause huge financial losses and trigger irrational stimulus spending.
The US Treasury and US Federal Reserve start taking up major ownership stakes
in US corporations, then use this position to control the means of production.
They announce plans to create a Federal domestic police force. This may be
used to enforce new requirements for domestic passports, travel restrictions,
and to deal with any visible protests. The Obama Administration is full of
folks committed to new laws regulating guns ownership and banning the sale
of effective defensive weapons, ammo, and reloading components. Large scale
energy, income, and sales tax increases are planned. I believe that Americans
will again be deprived from owning real [precious metals] money. Our currency
will be devalued by perhaps 80% to offset the massive Federal spending. Price
controls
and rationing
of food and fuel will be introduced by executive order. During the Great Depression,
FDR banned the private holding of gold and foreign currency. US dollars
(gold certificates) were replaced by Federal Reserve Notes. Many
banks were closed without returning deposits to account holders and what little
cash was left in the hands of the people was devalued by the Treasury by 40%.
Many folks are moving out of large cities. They are buying rural land and planting
a garden. They are buying and hoarding guns, ammo, food, fuel, and looking
to buy gold and silver. While economic conditions appear bad, the break of
trust
between the Government and the People is more reminiscent of the Civil War
than the Great Depression.
Can You Make an Orderly Transition?
a) Moving Out of the City but Keeping Your Job.
Many folks simply can not leave their big city job and feel trapped. For them,
moving your family out of the city and keeping your present job, and commuting
back and forth may be the best interim solution. You might look at public transportation
in your area and see if you could buy a home near this. Also consider owning
a Jeep or a pickup that can contain survival tools, food storage, hiking boots,
even a mountain bike and commute using that vehicle when you feel that a crisis
could be imminent. You need to practice for this occasionally to find out how
to drive home without using freeways, or clogged intersections, or having to
refill your gas tank. If you plan on biking home, why not try it once a month.
Find out now if it is a viable alternative.
b) Career Changes that Improve Your Preparedness.
Some friends of mine recently underwent a significant career change. They left
their research position at a US government lab in California to take a college
professorship in a small Midwestern town. There are many opportunities for
folks to change careers and significantly improving their preparedness level
without losing their career and every thing they have built. Creating a portable
small business, building a farm or ranch, taking a related job in small town
America are all good ways to improve your position without the big and scary
step of quitting and living off your savings.
c) Transfers and Early Retirement.
I moved out of Los Angeles 25 years ago, to a small desert town three hours
away. I soon plan to retire and move even further away from California and
its enormous
insatiable and unsustainable cities and their outrageous politics. Often times
these transitional changes take years of planning and savings to carry out
successfully. For me, the years of planning and savings are worth it. If you
are just a few years away from retirement, you might want to find out the rules
and calculate how to retire early and how much such a change would cost you
in the long run.
How Can You Bug Out Safely?
d) What are you Bugging Out From.
This may be the most important question. I believe that you must know what
you fear before you can plan what to do, and ultimately where to go. What could
convince you that you must leave your current home? Are you worried about a
natural disaster such as a hurricane, an earthquake, or a tsunami. Perhaps
you are concerned about a 1930s type depression, a renewed terrorist strike,
or a combination of events that teardown the rule of law and allow rioting
and conflict on a nationwide scale. If you are just worried about keep yourself
employed in our current economic mess, you might consider mobility and job
skills more important than bugging out. But if you have come to the conclusion
that the American society will fracture when subjected to enough stress and
that the inevitable reaction to almost any sudden crisis will be rioting and
nationwide loss of the rule of law, you might want to consider moving to an
area where you fit in and are accepted by the community.
e) Selecting the best route and location.
Leaving your “Big City” job and moving back to your home town is
a pretty popular idea right now, perhaps even smarter than trying to start
a new life in a new and strange part of the country. I grew up on a small farm
in the Midwest and am planning to move back to a small farm. When I talk to
my new neighbors I find that I actually have more in common with them culturally
that the folks I have worked with here in California for over 25 years. Truth
is I am still a farm boy who is more concerned with my farm and livestock than
I am with a Lexus or a wide screen entertainment system. No one seems to be
much impressed about my “Big City” job but every one is stoked
that I am a qualified gunsmith and can trap beaver out of the creek.
Some good friends of mine moved back to their home town of Sandpoint, Idaho
about 12 years ago. Northern Idaho seems like a nice enough place when I visited
a back then, but even a couple of local boys with engineering degrees had a
hard time landing a full time job. Perhaps moving where you can actually find
a job and where you can still afford some nice farm land would make more sense
than moving to someone else’s idea of an ideal location, (Sorry, James).
The same applies to your route selection. Staying away from the inner city
areas that always seem to be the flash points for social unrest seems obvious.
But perhaps moving out of the big city early is more important than planning
the best escape route and waiting too long. If you must wait until the last
minute you should consider finding a bug out location that is within a very
short drive, say only a few hours away. Another advantage of have a “local” bug
out location is using as a vacation spot on long weekends. Suddenly, taking
a week off and driving out of the city is more of a regular occurrence. If
you practice it often, it is more likely to work under the added stress of
a real crisis event. [JWR Adds: The drawback to this is that
if your retreat is in close proximity for you, then it is also in close proximity
for The
Golden Horde. A three hour drive out of Los Angeles, is just about where
most refugees will be running out of fuel. Choose your retreat locale wisely,
well-away from exit corridors and natural lines of drift.]
f) What to Carry, What to Pre-position.
Even if you have a very secure location to preposition or cache goods and equipment,
I believe that you need to store the primary means of survival at your home
and be prepared to carry it with you. I define the primary means of survival
as food, water, shelter, clothing, and protection from immediate harm. Secondary
stuff would be the means to sustain life beyond the immediate threat, i.e.
productive land to grow food, livestock, tractors and farm equipment, means
of producing
electrical power, reload ammunition, trade goods, gold and silver. I recommend
that you keep the primary stuff at home and have the means of transporting
it to safety at a moment's notice. You may choose to store the secondary stuff
at your retreat location (and take the risk of theft) or at home (depending
upon your ability to transport it). In practice, I would suggest that the heaviest
and most bulky secondary items should be pre-positioned or cached at the retreat
location.
g) Selecting a Bug Out Vehicle.
If you plan to--or fear you may have to--make a lengthy bug out trip with a
loaded vehicle during crisis conditions you might consider the fuel range and
load capacity as the most important considerations. While recently designed
gasoline vehicles tend to be very reliable and more fuel efficient than trucks
built in the 1970s, their fuel mileage is still much lower than an equivalent
turbo diesel with a manual transmission. Plus it is easier to add significant
auxiliary fuel storage tanks to a diesel. My number one recommendation for
a bug out vehicle is a 1994 thru 1997 Dodge Cummins one ton pickup with a 5
speed
manual transmission and 3.54 rear end. Add a 90 gal Aux. fuel/tool box combo
for 1,900 mile range without stopping to refuel.
What If You Leave Too Early?
h) Leaving When You Should.
Human nature is a funny thing. Through out history folks have remained in very
dangerous conditions, literally losing their own life, because they are afraid
of public ridicule for running away. This was particularly true with the Jews
in 1930s Germany. While leaving may have been difficult and even prohibited
by the Nazis, it was possible. So why did so many folks bow to social pressure
to remain. Who cares what the sheeple think, learn to run like a scared little
rabbit. If you can not move to a safe area permanently, then find a way to
move there temporarily. Look for an opportunity to take a sabbatical, or take
time off to care for an aging parent, or to work part time. Look for anything
that allows you to leave the most dangerous area at the first hint of a crisis.
Yes, your friends may harass you for bugging out too early and slinking back
a couple of weeks later. Just remember who they are and invite only those folks
who seem to understand the risks we appear to be facing.
i) Leaving Yourself a Way to Return.
Please do not plan to max out your credit cards, pull out of your retirement
accounts, or burn bridges with your boss. History is full of folks who thought
they knew the end of the world was coming, only to be forced to deal with reality
the next day. Did you ever hear of the 1840s religious group, the Millerites?
They gave away everything they owned because their leader knew that Christ
would
return
on a particular day. Leave yourself a safe way to return to your old life
if you decision to bug out is wrong. While I believe that it is a much better
plan to live in a safe area all the time than try to predict the event, I also
recognize that many people can not move quickly enough. I believe that the
Bible states that the end will arrive like a thief in the night. No notice,
no warning, one second every thing is fine and the next second the world has
changed radically.
j) Living with Your Mistakes.
It is possible that you will be caught up in a crisis in spite of all your
preparations. Perhaps you needed to travel to a big city hospital or take
a long range flight on just the wrong day. Perhaps a crisis develops while
you
are living your life and not really paying any attention. Life is not going
to send you any emails telling you that the stuff has hit the fan and you
are now on your own. I recommend that you always carry a bug out bag with
the basic
survival food and equipment, and bring along your knowledge, skills, experience
with you. Carry enough gold, silver, and cash to replace some of your preparations
and allow you to purchase the means to get home if you are caught taking
a long distance flight.
Summary.
There really is not any way to know what they future is going to look like.
We could experience a long degrading slide into the dust bin of history (France,
Spain, Japan) or in a blinding flash of cataclysm (1917 Russia, 1934 Germany,
2001 Argentina). We could be looking at a repeat of the Great Depression,
a World Was over the remaining oil supplies, or a second Civil War. What
I do know is that our Government has been corrupted and is responding to the
unbridled greed of an elite few and against the needs of the many.
Studying our own history and the history of other developed nations under
similar shows
two clear possible futures: Those that shared the pain recovered, those that
spared the elite at the expense of the many suffered from long debilitating
economic depressions that often decayed into Civil War, Fascism, or Communism.
I would rather face the future surrounded by like-minded people in an area
that can support both my life and a sustainable society. A society that is
not dependent on long distance transportation of critical goods, non-renewable
energy sources, centralized control and just in time deliveries, or intensive
industrialized agriculture. I was born on a small farm in the breadbasket
of the world, and I want my country back!
« Letter Re: Offshore G.O.O.D.--Do You Have Your Papers? |Main| Note from JWR: »
From The Werewolf: New Flex Fuel Ethanol Motorcycle Now Available in Brazil
Jim,
I´m very proud of the new Honda´s motorcycle in the Brazilian market:he
first full "flex fuel" bike in the world! You can use gas and
alcohol, in almost any ratio. (Well, on cold days, you´ll need 20%
gasoline minimum to start the engine...). It´s the ultimate survival
bike! I know you don´t read Portuguese, but here
is the link. And here is an article about it in English: Honda
CG150 TITAN MIX: world's first flex-fuel motorcycle.
Best Regards, - The Werewolf in Brazil
« Two Letters Re: Knob Creek Report on Ammunition, Magazines, and Parts |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Home-Made Super Cat Alcohol Stoves
Dear Mr. Rawles,
First, I would like to commend you on your "Patriots" novel.
It is a "must read" for any American who believes in our Constitution
and Bill of Rights. I bought the book a few months ago and have read it twice
so
far. The "crunch" scenario outlined is self-evident today, and a
very real possibility.
I have never been of the "survivalist" mindset, however with the
NWO now upon us - and my becoming 'awake" as to the threat of the NWO
and TEOTWAWKI - I am starting my preparations in earnest. Your book, and others,
are now quickly becoming part of my reading in order to catch up on what I
have to do to protect my family and myself when the Schumer hits the fan.
I have read many articles on your blog and the internet regarding what the
contents of a G.O.O.D. bag should carry. Of interest is the subject of portable
cooking stoves. I have found a quick and free option for a lightweight and
portable "camp stove" that I would like to share. It is called the "Super
Cat" Alcohol Stove found at the
Jim Woods Base Camp web site.
This "stove" is simply a cat food can that can easily be transformed
into an denatured alcohol (or similar) fueled cooking stove that is a simple
to make, takes up minimum space, and is fueled by easily carried and procured
denatured alcohol. I find that carrying one or two of these stoves in a zip-loc
bag takes up minimal space in a backpack. Denatured alcohol is readily available,
and can be cached for future use in large quantity. The
downloadable PDF file for the "Super Cat also shows the various ways
that that the fuel can be carried in small containers for a backpack. There
are also downloadable files on a windscreen and stove
stand that are also easily self-fabricated.
I know that most of the folks that read your blog are more prepared than I
am at this point, but I feel that all options should be presented for evaluation
and testing in order to find out what best suits their needs. And the best
thing about the "Super-Cat" is that it is free!
Thanks for your Patriotism and everything you do. - W.M.
« Letter Re: Knob Creek Report on Ammunition, Magazines, and Parts |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Backpackers of the Apocalypse: Selecting and Ultra-Lighting Your Bug-Out Bag, by John the Midwestern Hiker
When in the course of human events it becomes necessary to get out of Dodge,
a decent respect for the integrity of one’s spine demands that every item
in your bug-out bag be submitted to a candid evaluation. Forgive me for cheekily
paraphrasing the Declaration of Independence, but it does make a point that every
preparedness minded individual needs to consider:
if and when you need to get out fast with only the items you can carry on your
back, what are you going to take, and what are you going to carry it in?
The first major consideration that you need to, um, well, consider, is the type
of pack you will want to select (If you already have a pack and know how to use
it, then, please, skip a paragraph.) There are two types of packs popular today:
internal frame and external frame.
As the name implies, an internal frame pack has a rigid metal frame buried
deep within the bowels of the pack. Internal frame packs are designed to perform
well
on rugged and treacherous terrain. They ride close to the body and are heavily
padded for comfort. The actual stowage space on an internal frame is the long,
narrow pack body. All your goods are accessed from the top, which can be a
problem if the item you’re trying to find is tucked away in the bottom
corner of the pack.
An external frame pack is essentially a metal frame with hip belts, a pack,
and some convenient nylon mesh pockets attached to it. External frames are
designed
for easy access and a large carrying capacity: if something won’t fit
in the pack itself, just lash it on to the frame and off you go! The drawback
of
external frame packs is that they tend not to be nearly as self-contained and
well balanced as internal frame packs.
The selection of a pack really depends on your personal preference, and the environment
that you anticipate you will be carrying it in. As I live near mountainous terrain,
I favor an internal frame configuration. Go to a local sporting goods shop and
try on a couple of different packs to find one that fits your body and the climate.
After you’ve selected your pack and figured out the straps and buckles
(can’t help you there, every pack is different.) you will need to determine
what to pack. Camping stores offer plenty of fun-looking, lightweight gadgets
like origami snapware and ‘backpacker’ camp chairs. Resist the
urge to buy these. Your pack will be quite heavy enough just carrying the essentials.
The human body needs three elements to survive in the outdoors: these are, in
order of importance; water, shelter, and food. When you pack your bug-out bag,
focus on these three essentials.
Water: Without water, even the toughest individual would be dead in a matter
of days. Pack three means of purifying water: a hand-pump filter, preferably
an easily cleaned ceramic model, water purification tablets, and a fuel efficient
backpacking stove to boil water for drinking, cleaning, and cooking. Of course,
you can usually build a fire to boil water with, but you may not always have
the time or energy. Always, always filter water before drinking, it may look
clean, but if it’s not [free of microorganisms], you could wind up ‘running’ out
both ends.
Shelter: In most climates for most of the year you will want to have a tent
along. Most backpacking tents are sturdy enough for hiking and camping in spring,
summer, and fall, but are inadequate in heavy snow or cold-weather conditions.
My advice
would be to have two tents: a lightweight, well-ventilated backpacking tent
for summer situations and a heavy duty ["four season"] dome tent for winter.
Change the tents and
clothing in your pack, seasonally.
Food: You will be limited in how much food you can carry, regardless of the
size and weight of your pack. My personal favorite is Mountain House freeze-dried
food. Pound for pound, freeze-dried
food weighs less and tastes better than any
other
backpacking food I have ever used. An additional bonus is that, being dehydrated,
all you have to do is add water, swish it around and eat it right out of the
pouch. I have experimented with many other kinds of food over the course of
my
backpacking career, and none has matched the convenience, weight, taste, and
portability of freeze-dried
food.
For food preparation, consider carrying a lightweight stove. You can survive
without one, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Some models of stove can run
on multiple fuel types, and if you are planning on roughing it long term, a
flex-fuel model is a smart choice.
Personally, I use the Jetboil, because it is self-contained, lightweight,
easy to clean, and very, very fuel efficient, which is good, because it runs
off of
a specialized fuel mix.
If you want to eat the food you prepare, bring along an insulated metal mug and
a fork/spoon/knife combination utensil. Do not, under any circumstances, pack
or buy origami eat ware. Although it is lightweight, it is also ridiculously
flimsy. So, unless you want to be eating out of your bare hands, go with a good
old fashioned mug and spork.
Some items are not absolute essentials, but are very, very nice to have. The
first and most important nonessential item is camper’s toilet paper. Some
locales, especially in the west, lack herbage with soft, fluffy leaves, so unless
you want to use pine needles (very strongly not recommended.) or hay (again,
from personal experience—don’t try it.) bring along camper’s
toilet paper, which is essentially super-absorbent toilet paper on a streamlined
roll.
Supplement
this supply with natural substitutes whenever you can.
In that same vein, bring along a sturdy plastic garden spade to bury your waste
with. Make sure you store this shovel in a sealed plastic bag.
A tough, sturdy plastic tarp is another useful nonessential. A tarp can serve
as the footprint for your tent, or you can use it as a ground cloth to sleep
out under the stars in nice weather. Bring along a spool of medium-weight nylon
cord so you can use the tarp as a cooking fly or to augment your tent in heavy
rain.
A sturdy, closed-cell foam sleeping pad will make your nights much more comfortable.
Avoid generic brands if you can, because they tend to be much thinner and are
more prone to tearing. I have a Thermarest Ridgerest foam pad that has lasted
me for five years and is still in good shape. Although inflatable sleeping pads
are more comfortable than foam pads, they tend to leak, and are generally more
prone to failure.
Another item that should probably be an essential is a good knife. A sharp cutting
tool is essential to human survival. Bring along a sharpener that is effective
and that you are comfortable using. If you are planning on making a fire, a hatchet
is also useful, but not essential.
Well, that’s it. This is all the essential gear that you will need for
your bug-out bag. Remember, these are the essentials. You will want to pack other
items in order to fill out your bug-out bag; things like ammunition, a slingshot,
and duct tape (of course.) After you assemble your pack and gear, make sure that
you go on at least one week-long trek, so that you can practice packing and carrying
your bug-out-bag. Keep your bag packed and ready if you don’t live at your
predetermined retreat site. You may be carrying it sooner than you think.
« Letter Re: Some Practical Lessons From Daily Concealed Carry |Main| Note from JWR: »
Is it Enough?, by Axman
I remember the Great Gas Crises of the 1950s. I filled several metal five-gallon
cans with gas and put them behind the seat of my 1941 Plymouth 6-cylinder Business
Coupe. I got 21 miles per gallon with that peppy little car!
When Kennedy’s
Cuban Missile Crises came about I dug a foxhole in my Mother’s
back yard -- which she later filled in and used as a flower bed.
Then the Cold
War with Russia, where we rattled ballistic missiles at each other. I actually
built an above-ground fallout shelter out of a retired metal
dumpster
and a piece of conduit big enough to crawl through. A hill of dirt left over
from a construction job finished it. My shelter looked like an earthen igloo,
built in the high desert above Phoenix, Arizona . It lasted about 7 years,
until the new owner of the property took it down.
One day at a gun store I met a man
who was high up in our regional electric company. I asked him what would happen
if the Russians nuked Phoenix. He replied
that
if we were lucky, our electricity would be out for a few weeks to a few months!
If
they scored a direct hit, then it could be years before the power could be
restored!
Convinced, I went right home and started assembling my own small solar
electric system! Several years later the Berlin Wall was taken down. But
I kept my 'Small
Electric Company' operational. I still use it every evening! In addition
I picked up a pitiful little generator some guy had taken out of his motor
home.
Eventually
Y2K came
on the scene. I sold my little noise maker
and replaced it with a new Coleman 3,000 watt, no frills, short run generator.
It is just big enough to run the wife’s washing machine and any of my
shop’s
tools one at a time. This machine was a great comfort as the year 2000 came
closer. I figured on running it just 2 to 3 hours per week during the crisis.
That way, I would
not have to store large amounts of expensive, flammable gasoline. I still maintain
this generator in good working order by using it to power my electric chainsaw
2 or 3 times each year as I cut wood for our stove.
During the pre-Y2K months
an old Baptist turned-Mormon school chum convinced me
to
start a food storage program. So I went out and bought 3 or 4 cases of Ramen
noodles. In time I learned to hate Ramen noodles! My thrifty wife insisted
on recycling or rotating them through my digestive tract! I think I have finally
got her convinced to save the last case for our neighbors who fail to prepare
for the big one! I now buy canned pinto beans, pork and beans, canned corn,
green peas, green beans, potted meat, Vienna sausages, stuff I like or can
at least
tolerate! I figure on keeping 6 weeks to 3 months supply of food and water
on hand and rotating it every 3 years, keeping it no longer then 5 years.
This is an ongoing thing and saves us a few dollars as the price of food continues
to rise. Uncle Sugar just keeps printing money and devaluating our Dollars,
thus higher prices!
Now along comes the Mega Depression of 2009, [minor rant snipped] so this
then is my biggest challenge, just to survive this coming period of economic
disaster,
political turmoil, and civil unrest.
I am in the process
of improving
the latches on my exterior doors and outfitting a designated bug out vehicle
capable of sustaining our lives for 30 days. I am teaching my wife to use a
battle rifle and
improving my rain water barrels. I instructed my financial advisor to prepare
my investments for the worst, plus taking some independent action of my own
in
the way of trade goods, reconstruction skills and a small investment in precious
metals. I have talked up the need to prepare with friends, loved ones, and
neighbors. Is it enough? Only time will tell.
« Retreat Owner Profile: Mr. & Mrs. India |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Disaster Preparedness--Of Lists and Preparation in Depth, by Ed C.
I would like to offer my own experiences in the hopes that they may provide
some small amount of practical advice to others. Here in Oklahoma, of course,
we face tornadoes, but many do not realize we have also suffered from paralyzing
ice storms - three within the past ten years. Lessons gleaned from practical
experience are:
- Have inventory lists;
- Have 'Oh-Schumer Lists' of items
and chores for each type of contingency situation
(tornado, flood, ice storm, etc.)
- Prepare 'in depth' for each major
need, such as heat and light, food, water, shelter, and protection
- Calmly
think
through scenarios on the before-hand, in terms of what would be needed,
how long one can survive, and what the deciding factors in your response
would be ('fight or flight')
- Most importantly, be prepared to take care of your own, whether family
or
friends or neighbors.
First things first. Just a week or so ago, Oklahoma
was ravaged by several tornadoes. While keeping an ear on the weather
report,
I calmly
gathered up medications,
identification papers, windup lights and radios. I made sure there
was at least one conventional telephone working. We have had experiences
with cell
phone
towers being down, or the cell phone networks being overloaded. I
placed a full face motorcycle helmet, winter gloves, and parka within reach
to put on (for some marginal protection against debris)
in case
the tornado swung in our direction, something they can and
have done before.
Thankfully, we were spared, though one tornado came within two miles
of
our home.
The purpose of relating the above is to illustrate the
importance of pre-planning for an event, having what we call an 'Oh-Schumer
List' of
items and tasks, so that one keeps panic at bay while calmly following
a pre-planned, prepared
list so that one keeps busy and feels somewhat in control of the
situation.
The second situation is one that we have experienced
several times; and yet I am still amazed that many neighbors still do not
prepare
for them; ice
storms. Again, we have items stored which were deemed necessary
to overcome the emergency
situation, as well as an 'Oh-Schumer List' of items and tasks
(chores) which we can calmly follow. In our case, we have winter clothing
cleaned, organized,
and stored;
various tools and outdoor items prepped (snow shovels, chain
saw (and spare chains, oil,
etc.), generator (and gasoline, oil, spark plugs, etc.), tarps,
lumber; food, water, and medicines stocked; Vehicles serviced and fueled;
and Call
Lists of Family,
Friends, and Neighbors so that we can be sure they are warm,
fed, and safe.
One thing I must stress is that we prepare 'in depth'
as much as we can.
Meaning that while we have a generator and gasoline, we also
have propane lights, heaters,
and stoves in case the generator fails. We also
have candles, Esbit stoves, windup lights and radios, and firewood.
Similarly, my wife
will cook up large batches of food if she knows we have an
incoming storm front, but we also have canned goods, MREs, and freeze-dried
goods.
For water, we
have bottled water, Katadyn water filters, bleach, water purification
tablets, collapsible
water containers, and a small 10,000 gallon swimming pool.
A
few years ago, Oklahoma City was paralyzed for about five
days by an ice storm. We had no
electricity from the grid, but we had our furnace and a few appliances
running
on a generator. We also had relatives and neighbors who stayed with us, as
they had not prepared. It was no matter, we had homemade chicken pot
pies, wine, card games,
lively conversation, and were all safe, snug, and warm. Sadly, while outside
cutting up fallen trees that blocked the roads, I encountered a neighbor that
needed
the cut-up wood to heat and cook for his elderly father and himself. I offered
him our propane lights, heater, and camp stove; but he did not take us up
on the
offer. I wanted to ask him, that since we had gone through this numerous
times, why he had not prepared for this. But, I knew it was hard enough for
him just
to ask for the firewood.
In closing, let me recap. Have inventory
lists. Have 'Oh-Schumer Lists' of items and tasks for each type of contingency
situation. Prepare 'in
depth' for each major need, such as heat and light, food, water, shelter,
and protection Calmly think through scenarios on the before-hand,
in terms of what would be needed, how long one can survive, and what the deciding
factors would
be. Most importantly, be prepared to take care of your own, whether
family
or friends or neighbors. Sadly, this last point is overlooked by many. Good
luck to all.
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Letter Re: Jared Diamond Predicts the End of Cheap Oil and an 85% Global Population Decline
Mr. Rawles,
I
found this article informative. A quote: "Cheap, plentiful
fossil fuels discovered in the last hundred years (or so) spurred a food bubble,
which
led
to a population bubble. Cheap
oil, in other words, created the temporary conditions necessary to support
a runaway population explosion that is, without question, unsustainable without
cheap energy." Here is another quote: "complex civilizations are
quite fragile, and short-terming thinking can easily doom a society or civilization
to irreversible
collapse."
The author believes that world population
will be reduced to 1/7th of its current size in a post-oil economy. BTW, there
are lots of other links on that web site that are worth exploring. I enjoy
reading
your blog. Regards, - I.L.
« Three Letters Re: Some Thoughts on the Survival Vehicle |Main| Note from JWR: »
The 19th Century Home Retrofit, by Y. Cornelius
By now most SurvivalBlog readers have gone about your preparations for your
ideal home or retreat cabin, all storage food and tools acquired, fuel stored,
generators
ready, PV panels carefully concealed and hooked up to the battery bank. You
and your family or group are ready to handle the coming collapse, but are
you really? Are you ready to do without? Without that generator when
the fuel runs out, or a critical piece is worn out and a new one cannot be
had? At some point
your supplies will be used up, storage fuel consumed and there may not be any
to refill your tanks or more realistically you may be priced out, or it will
be too dangerous to “run-the-gauntlet” and get more. Can you manage
in your place without electricity? Can you cook with wood? Do you have space
enough to process the abundant food you grow and must preserve either by canning
or other means? Can you move throughout your buildings without being seen from
the outside?
My point, is your place set up to function as a 19th century homestead?
My wife and I bought an old New England farmhouse many years ago, it is nothing
fancy and looks like so many others in our area, it is a traditional connected
farmhouse meaning that the buildings are all linked-up, yet they have different
roof lines and are of different sizes. It is best summed up as a “Big
House,
Little House, Back House, Barn” and this is the title of a wonderful book
written by Thomas C. Hubka which details the reasons for the ways structures
developed. (If you want a leisurely read on the history of these buildings, I
highly recommend this book.) Anyway, we bought this type of farm house and have
been in the process of renovating it over many years, although the renovation
could more reasonably described as going back to the future. One of the many
wonderful things about an old house, and when I say old I mean over 150 years
old, is the ability to reuse much of the lumber in the walls, floors, and ceilings
or the masonry whether it is brick or stone, Ours is a timber frame with some
masonry on the exterior and is incredibly well built and has a brilliant house
plan. I realize that many people are not up to the task of going through this
sort of process, but you could build your current retreat or home to some of
these specs. Our home for example was built just after the War of 1812 it was
fully functional for a family of eight with room for boarders/labors and or relatives.
The kitchen is large while many of the adjacent rooms are small (less space to
heat) all the rooms are situated around two large central fireplaces and have
thimbles to allow for a small wood stove in each, the rooms can be closed off
when not in use, thus not taking valuable heat from other areas. In the basement
there is a large hole in the floor; it was a cistern, but was allowed to fill
in with junk, perhaps it was considered a “sump hole” by later inhabitants
since there was evidence of long overworked pumps in under the silt and gravel.
I have cleaned this up and now have a source of water right in the house, (this
water will still need to be treated since it is technically surface water being
only ten feet below grade), but it still offers water for cleaning or for our
animals.
There is a large “root” cellar to store food stuffs and
canned goods. (It could double as safe room or vault if needed and may well have
been at one point since the opening is nondescript and hidden from plain sight).
Also there is a summer kitchen, at first I wondered why this was necessary, it
appeared to be redundant, but further study enlightened me to the fact that this
area was a vital part the home complex. First it served to allow a large un-insulated
cook area that was necessary during the harvest time to allow heat to escape
from the constant fire in the cook stove during the canning, it was also a place
that field labors had their meals prepared and ate without having to clean themselves
up much and not dirty up the regular kitchen. The buildings between the summer
kitchen and barn (sometimes it is one long building divided only internally or
there are up to three distinct roof lines and end walls that divide them) any
how these areas were used in a variety of ways to allow a small cottage industry
to occur, in-fact these were simply work areas that were sheltered from the often
harsh and wild weather we experience. One could be for wood storage, for tools
(a sort of machine shop), or areas for processing wool from sheep. The point
is not to recreate that lifestyle but to utilize that mindset and build similar
multi-purpose structures.
Our Home:
We have “renovated” our home to fully function without electricity.
Now, we have multiple generators, a significant storage of fuels and food. I
and am currently finishing up with the PV panels and battery bank/inverter set-up,
going through all the motions to secure some sense of normalcy; but in-fact we
do
not “need” those items to exist here, they are an extra. We can heat
with wood and with a solar hot water system connected to baseboard radiators
as well as a copper coil running through the wood fired furnace [for when there
is not solar gain or during a heavy snowfall]. (The hot water moves via thermo-siphon
no electricity needed only check-valves to keep the hot water moving in one direction).
Our kitchen is “modern” but if the power is out we can cook on our
wood fired cook-stove, it is about 120 years old and with a little “TLC” is
now fully functional not to mention beautiful to look at. We can also bake in
a bee hive oven built into the massive central chimney which I rebuilt and lined
with modern flues. I left one of the original fireplaces, installed airtight
doors and an exterior air vent, while on the other side made the other fireplace
into a large wood storage container.
Overall, your retreat needs to be functional without electricity, things will
eventually break, or you simply run out. Focus upon knowing how to live your
life with little to no electricity or “conveniences”. The primary
goals must be on heating your home and preparing food without petrochemical
fuels, most modern homes are particularly horrible in this area. Change your
mindset; you cannot store enough for the really long haul.
« Economics and Investing: |Main| The 19th Century Home Retrofit, by Y. Cornelius »
Three Letters Re: Some Thoughts on the Survival Vehicle
Mr. JWR,
I'm surprised this hasn't been addressed more thoroughly, but the first point
of consideration should be whether the vehicle will be diesel or gasoline
(since most vehicle models don't have a diesel equivalent). I know this topic
has been done before here, and even led me to investing in a diesel, but
apparently it's worth rehashing.
The disadvantages of gasoline are substantial. Gasoline is difficult to store
safely (as it is so combustible). Its useful life generally expires in about
12 months (so should you not have access to your stabilized cache, you can
expect
your
vehicle
to become useless before a year is out). It is more common, which means it
is more likely to be stolen. Gasoline generally gives fewer miles per gallon.
Gasoline engines usually wear faster than diesel engines, and require more
servicing (oil changes at 3,000 miles rather than 6,000, with expected engine
lives also greatly reduced). The only advantages I can see to gasoline is that
you're more likely to find spare parts and mechanics who can work with them,
and that it's less temperature-sensitive. [JWR Adds: Diesels are
also very unforgiving if you ever run one completely out of fuel. Re-priming
can be tricky.]
Meanwhile, the advantages of diesel are substantial, for our purposes. Diesel
is not nearly as combustible, and so safer to store, and will last longer.
It's less likely to be raided (and someone who does steal your diesel supply
won't be getting far if they're foolish enough to use it straight away). The
engines are generally simpler than gasoline engines and more tolerant to abuse.
Most important is the availability of fuel. Sure I can't siphon out of my neighbor's
car (not that I would anyway), but when the gas stations are out, truck and
train depots are more likely to have left over fuel. And when the diesel is
out, I can still run on jet fuel, kerosene, biodiesel (which I can make at
home), waste vegetable oil, waste engine oil, even coal dust.
Assuming even the least crises we might face, such as a localized natural disaster,
the gasoline infrastructure is very fragile, and very quickly that will run
out, with gasoline theft very common. When the gas pump goes dry, however,
I'll still be brewing my own biodiesel out of vegetable oil I can pick up at
the store or even make myself. (And I'm not aware of any [fire] code concerns
regarding storing vegetable oil in the home). Diesel is renewable, gasoline
is not (even
ethanol production is a losing proposition).
The caveat to this is to buy older. Newer vehicles are getting increasingly
temperamental, especially the newest models. Apparently the 2007s and later
fall under new EPA standards,
and in many cases the standards are so stringent that the vehicle will even
bleed fuel into its own oil supply rather than release
oxides into the atmosphere. That means biodiesel will literally eat the inside
out of the vehicle. 2006 and earlier on most models should be fully biodiesel
compatible, with older models working better (although generally less efficient).
Thank you for your fantastic blog. Keep up the good work! - Dieselman
James:
Those were some really good ideas. I've done some of those modifications.
I would add to the list three items:
1. I have three historic vehicles and one ironic thing about old school technology
is that the PSI ratings
for various applications on older machinery is not what it is on modern vehicles.
For example, I once lost a tiny plug (off of
a '58
International
Tractor) that would be impossible to find (or worth it for that matter) so
I crammed a piece of cork into it and its been there for years still doing
a great job. So, I save all cork from my household for emergency leak stoppers.
BTW: cork when burned makes good instant facial camouflage so that's another
reason I keep it stockpiled.
2. I read / subscribe to antique tractor, car, and motorcycle magazines to
pick up DIY information. A tip I picked up but haven't used
was from another old car nut. Keep a tampon handy for radiator leaks. It'll
provide a good temporary fix that will get you home.
3. Road flares. Besides the intended purpose, they also do a great job at starting
fires if the wood you are trying to light isn't exactly seasoned and dry. I
also used them as a law enforcement officer to chase away the bad guy's dog
so I didn't have to shoot the dog. (I have five rescued dogs and numerous other
rescued animals so I try to avoid any unnecessary force against animals.) [JWR
Adds: In my experience, nothing beats a lit 15-minute road flare for
crowd control. Nobody wants to mess with them.]
Good luck, - FLHSPete
Hi Jim,
I wanted to add my two cents to the Bug Out Vehicle (BOV)
thread going on. I’m
sure my thoughts on the subject will appear weak and lazy, but give it a look
see
anyway.
This
comes from the perspective of those that want to continue much as they do now,
and who possess the ability to do many of the repairs that would be necessary
for any truck, no matter how well “prepped” theirs might be via
the aid of auto-mall-ninja pimping.
Plenty of people will chose to keep existing trucks, or SUVs as their BOVs.
The reasons are many, but usually include the lack of funds to keep an extra
vehicle around, and personal preferences. Most will not use a specialized vehicle
as their full time rig, but they might consider modifying them for BOV off-road,
or inclement situation usage. For those that can’t, or won’t buy
/build /modify their way into a full-blown Mad Max vehicle, there remain options
for existing trucks and SUVs.
My personal rig is an F-250, 7.3 turbo diesel, early 2000s vintage.
It is a crew cab, (4 full doors, independently operable, unlike extend cab
units
which require the front doors to be open before the rear can), with an insulated
shell, and factory step bars to aid getting in and out of the cab. (We also
have an older 90s stretch minivan with seven passenger seating and storage,
and a pair of five-passenger SUVs).
I’m not overly concerned with EMP,
so computer damage from that doesn’t
rank high on my list. While having spare components is part of my plan, the
fact that they cover EMP possibilities is purely coincidental. Spare computer
and sensor parts for the 7.3 International engine run the list of the usual
suspects as they pertain to common repair activities. CPS, ICP, IPR,...
etc. The acronyms are part of the learning curve for do-it-yourself repairs.
Whatever breed of horse is in your stable, you better learn his particulars.
For Ford truck owners, an excellent source for tech, tips, real world repair
stories and cures, go to the
Ford Truck Enthusiasts (FTE) web site. They
have a world of excellent information, and them boys and gals help
members immediately, when there is an issue. All the special parts names (IPR
= Injection
Pressure Regulator etc.) are in there, and descriptions of what they do. All
of these components are available now, from multiple sources, and will fit
in a .30 caliber-size ammo can (which will fit behind the rear seat no problem).
I would encourage people to not be intimidated by the newer setups. Start with
a good, solid rig, such as the 7.3L. Buy the spares, and read up on how to
change them out. It’s not that hard. You’ll be doing monkey work
anyway no matter what the truck, if the poop smacks the blades, so what’s
the difference? These days, there are a whole lot more of the newer
Ford trucks out there. Parts galore! The parts houses have them in stock. If
it gets really
bad, and a little creative acquisition is in order…. well, use your imagination.
The 7.3 [liter] diesel is built by International, and has a minimum expected
life usage of 350,000 miles. A couple of guys on the forum report that some
trucks
have
gone 600,000+ miles before needing any real work. This engine simply keeps
going, and the chassis is very tough to beat.
Diesel fuel is everywhere. It’s in: big rigs, delivery - FedEx and UPS trucks, rental trucks, farm tractors – trucks – agricultural water
pumps – and
fuel tanks, some busses, most service stations, railroad engines, earth movers
and other construction equipment, military bases (who knows, they might go
deserted…),
emergency back up generators for some buildings…. It lasts a heck of
a lot longer than petrol. Doesn’t matter how much gasoline is around
for you, it will all be junk without proper treatment within
a short period of time. [JWR Adds: Don't overlook Home Heating
Oil tanks as another potential source of fuel that can be burned in diesels
in emergencies. (Although it would be a violation of road tax laws to do so
on public roads.) IMHO, every retreat should have at least one diesel
vehicle!]
As for transmissions, a manual is a good idea, but if you have an automatic,
don’t despair. I’ve yet to see a 8,000+ pound truck be push-started
without first parking on a hill. With your automatic, you need to be sure it
has a fluid cooler installed. Change the fluid regularly and according to common
sense. In a TEOTWAWKI world,
requisition [purchase]s are off the cuff, and there are plenty of the common
transmissions currently in service, and readily available.
Air bags used for load leveling really are a blessing. Take this setup, for
instance. A 3⁄4-ton truck that occasionally pulls a heavy load may use “load
levelers” commonly installed for use with travel trailers. These transfer
a good portion of the load to the truck’s front tires, but not all of
it. Air bag load assist units can take up the rest of the extra weight, and
convert your 3⁄4 ton setup into something much more capable. They don’t
get in the way, and are absolutely no liability. These accessories
can level a burdened truck just fine, which is a dead necessity if you want
a truck that
will steer and brake predictably. A truck that sagging in the rear can be deadly
in an emergency stop, especially on grades. The use of air bags allows
you to keep
a good ride when they are idling along. The best of both world there. At the
most, if they fail, you are left with the factory load capability intact.
My truck [body] is two inches higher than stock. I like the increased visibility.
I like the added travel in the suspension for towing off road. I like how it,
just today,
went
over debris on the road that might have caused damage. The guy in front of
me didn’t see it, and bang. I didn’t
have enough warning time so I went over it [, without contacting it]. The guy
behind me sensed something was up, but he
couldn't decide
what to do, so his vehicle went bang, too. Does two
inches help? It can. Today it did.
It also makes servicing the truck in bad terrain easier. With a truck that
has
a little
more uppity to it, you can get under it without the use of jacks, which are
unsafe on sloped ground. I wouldn’t lower a truck for any reason.
For anti theft, one easy to install device is a common switch, rated for the
current in the fuel pump circuit. I use switches to disable the fuel pumps.
They are hidden, and out of the way. Not too many thieves will spend the time
trying to figure out why the engine won’t start… something about
panic and going to jail or getting shot.
In keeping with the current mission of trucks, we like our power windows and
door locks. The window motors might become disabled at some point, but that’s
not a problem, really. If we need them open right now, that’s possible
with the glass breaking tools we carry anyway. In non emergencies, we can fix
such things. Power door locks have never trapped anyone I know inside, since
they all have manual overrides. They are a non-issue, too.
Back to our 'lil F-250 for a moment. They are copious hand bars in it. Four
on each side. Just inside the central pillars, are two very large such bars.
We’ve
found that these are just wonderful anchor points for harness attachments,
which allow for someone to firmly anchor themselves if they need to be sitting
on the window sill, hanging out the window for some reason. (Another opportunity
to use your imagination.) These internal attachment points almost seem
made for special occasions. - Anonymous from Californicatia
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Life's Lessons and the Foundations of Preparedness, by A.B.
We may soon depend on all of what we have learned over the years. Putting
all of the threads of knowledge together into a tapestry of self-sufficiency,
and survival capabilities, is part of the lifelong quest for our family’s
security. We learn from many sources and experiences such as: family, church,
friends, teachers, teammates, co-workers, reading books and SurvivalBlog, and
hopefully from our mistakes.
Preparedness Skills from our Grandmas and Grandpas
The foundation for preparedness begins with my childhood in Michigan. We
lived in Lansing where my great-grandmother was next door and my grandmother
lived
next door to her. My father was born in great-grandma’s house after
the family moved to the city during the early 1900s. My sisters and I spent
weekends and summers alternately at my mom’s family dairy farm, which
was just outside of the city, and at my dad’s family cabin “up
north”. These were the richest times of my life. We knew all of our
grandparents and some of our great-grandparents very well. My great-great-grandfather
still
lived in the old log cabin when I was born in 1956. We have been fortunate
to have had five generations alive consistently from then until now. The
wealth of love and knowledge you gain from your extended family is irreplaceable.
The “old timers” told stories of hardship during the great depression
and the dust bowl era (we live an area that was the largest prairie east
of the Mississippi.) Memories of crop failures with tales of early and late
frosts
were passed down. There were also hunting and fishing stories passed down
as we learned to hunt and fish with older family members. There were bigger
than
life lumberjack stories and stories from Prohibition and the World Wars.
I learned to safely handle and accurately shoot a .22 rifle with peep sights
when I was six or seven years old. I walked the roads with my grandpa squirrel
hunting. We ice fished on local lakes and went to Tip-Up
Town USA every year.
All
of
this adds to ones persona and the early experience helps awaken the necessary “survivalist” traits.
On a working dairy farm you rapidly learn about life (and death). Animal
husbandry and caring for the land lead to sustainability. Animals do become
food and
harvesting the crops sometimes seems little reward for the hard work. The
milking must be done every day and chores do not wait. As a kid I learned
to drive
tractors and pick-ups to and from the fields. We mowed, bailed and then stacked
the hay in the mow. Alfalfa, oats and corn were the field crops. Pigs, chickens,
and sheep were raised along with the dairy cows and we cleaned the barns
and spread manure.
Knowledge is passed down from generation to generation such as when to plant,
where to plant, when to harvest, and how to raise the animals. There were
many topics of conversations at the Sunday breakfast table. Many things are
debated
and discussed after chores and before Church. Most times the conversations
continued outside the Church after the sermon. It was the only time you saw
the other farmers. When you are a little guy you tended to be quiet, pay
attention and learn.
Grandpa was a farmer and Grandma was a one room school teacher. Grandma also
taught vacation bible school during the summer break. Us kids learned how
to tend good gardens and helped preserve the food we raised. We took care
of the
barn animals while the uncles milked. We hauled water to the bull pen and
helped milk as we got older. Survival skill sets from the farm come from
being part
of a close knit community with a solid work ethic. There are strong religious
underpinnings with good people engaged in caring for one another as well
as the animals and the land.
Preparedness from "Roughing It”
The log cabin “up north” had a well-house for getting water and
an outhouse for getting rid of water. There was a wood fired cook stove for
heat and kerosene lamps to play cards under. There was a red checkered oilcloth
on the table with cane chairs around it. The place was originally homesteaded
by my great-great-grandfather in the late 1800s (a few electric lights
were added at some point.) We used to go up on Friday night after Dad or
Grandpa got out of work. The next morning started with an awakening trip to
the outhouse
and then fetching a bucket of water from the well house and kindling for
the wood stove. On a cold morning you stepped lively until the fire was going.
Once the stove was hot, Grandma would cook buttermilk pancakes on a griddle
that my great-grandmother had used in the lumber camp. Eggs and bacon sizzled
in a cast iron skillet. Clothes were washed on a washboard in a wash tub and
then
hung
out to dry. You took a bath in the river. During the summer we would fish
morning and evening and water ski on the nice days. The family summer vacation
was
spent camping in a tent along the river or at a state park. The old cabin
was also used for small game hunting in the early fall and deer camp in the
late
fall / winter. We would take walks in the woods and look for morels and other
edible things like may apples, hickory nuts or raspberries and huckleberries.
Animal tracks were learned and followed with hopes of a glimpse. Life was
considered sacred unless needed for food and being a part of nature became
obvious. A
leave no trace and waste nothing ethic was being born.
Opportunities for further wilderness and pioneering skill development were
provided by Cub Scouts and Boy Scouts. My mom and dad were actively involved
in Scouting when I was growing up. Teamwork and sharing responsibilities
for the group were learned. Outdoor cooking and keeping things sanitary were
heavily
emphasized. Food poisoning is no joke – we had one patrol that damn near
killed us with their meal. We learned to wash our hands and boil the crap out
of everything. Hiking and backpacking skills were beginning to be developed
in the Scouts. We day hiked a 20 miler once a year on the Johnny Appleseed
Trail - the Scouts version of the death march. You had to carry a full pack
if you wanted the patch. We also hiked the Pokagon Trail in northern Indiana
and learned to camp in the winter.
While living in Pennsylvania (later in life) I started winter backpacking with
a few of my buddies. We went in the winter both for the solitude it offered,
and
to learn the special skill sets required for survival in the cold. There
are beautiful views from Seven Springs and other spots along the Laurel Highlands
Trail during the winter. This experience then led to the development of technical
mountaineering skills. The books Basic Rockcraft, Advanced Rockcraft and
Knots
for Climbers were memorized along with study of the book Mountaineering:
The Freedom of the Hills. Skills were practiced and ingrained.
My first solo backpacking / climbing trip came in the summer of 1980 in the
Organ Mountains of southern New Mexico. I later solo climbed most of the
4,000 and 5,000
footers in New England (many in winter). I met a like minded climber on one
of those hikes and we made a summit bid on Mt. Rainier in June of 1998. I
also began
the solo circumnavigation on the Wonderland Trail that year. I set the first
tracks both that year and when I completed the circuit in June of 2001. Map
and compass skills were required. Primitive camping
while carrying everything you
need to survive for two weeks is a tough proposition. It was tough in my 30s
and 40s. It’s even harder now that I am in my 50s. G.O.O.D. to
the deep woods is doable but it would be a hard life.
Responsibility and Teamwork
We learned to be responsible and self-sufficient during our childhood. We learned
to play without other kids around and had chores to do for our allowance. I
learned to gather the wood and light a fire as soon as I was old enough. You
pumped the
water and filled the reservoir if you wanted warm water for washing up. You
learned to use guns and knives as tools while you learned hunting techniques
and cleaned
the game for the table. Being a responsible hunter meant taking ethical shots
and using what you kill. Catching and cleaning fish, then cooking or smoking
them were all part of being a good fisherman. To go along with these survival
skills you also need the ability to share knowledge and work as a team.
Most of the skills you learn will help you to fend for yourself one way or
another. The only problem is summed up with the statement “no man is an island”.
You will need others sooner or later. My sisters and I developed basic teamwork
skills while setting up camp. The girls helped mom and I helped dad. We had a “system”.
This was carried further in Scouting. Some Patrols set up tents while another
set up the kitchen. These valuable lessons were used later in life as I went
through boot camp and during service in the military. I served on small boats
as part of a search and rescue team in the USCG.
Teamwork helps to overcome the steep learning curve and high risk of being
a self-sufficient survivalist. You can do things as a team exponentially quicker
and safer than you can by yourself. Your bunkmate becomes your partner in boot
camp and later becomes your shipmate. You learn “one hand for yourself
and one hand for the boat”. As a team you can survive what would kill you
alone. In a bad storm someone has to steer while someone bails out the boat.
One person couldn’t do it. Avalanche in the back country is another perfect
example - by yourself you are probably dead. Doing things alone is great - but
it may cost you your life. Skill and knowledge can’t cover your a** like
a buddy. It’s nice to have someone else on the rope with you; they are
your only hope.
Teaching everyone at least something you know and learning from everyone something
you don’t know can only make the group stronger. If someone gets sick
or is tired someone else can step up. CPR is
a good example here. In the back country one person can’t help himself.
One person helping may bring back the life but it better happen quickly. Two
people allow you to send someone for
help while
rendering aid until you are too tired to continue. Three people allow almost
indefinite support. Two can alternate CPR while waiting for the one who left
for help to return with the defibrillator. If help is real far away, then it’s
done. There is a point of no return. Remote locations usually cross that point
which is a distinct disadvantage (unless the SHTF).
Without teamwork you will usually die if something bad happens. Everyone has
to be a good shot. Everyone needs to be able to render first aid. The group
is only as strong as the weakest link and precious resources are spent covering
someone’s a** that’s not up to speed. Teach and learn and cross train.
Remember what you did as a kid and don’t sell the kid’s of today
short. Teach them the skills they need and allow them to grow into the responsibility.
Being part of a team or extended family that functions like a team is fun. The
action of being responsible for one another is at the root of any team.
The
Prepared Family
The family is the primary source of knowledge. Some survival skills to learn
right along with reading, writing and arithmetic are: swimming, knot tying,
fire building under all conditions, where to get water and how to make it safe
to
drink, safe gun handling and accurate shooting, hunting in fields and the woods,
fishing in rivers and on lakes, first aid, camping, boating, gardening, making
things “homemade”. You can’t start learning or teaching these
things too soon.
10 years ago we moved back home to Michigan after living all over the USA.
I had come home for my Grandpa’s funeral and was returning to New England.
Something was wrong and I couldn’t put my finger on it. That’s when
the light came on and as I drove it became apparent that I was going the wrong
way – both figuratively and literally. We were chasing the so called “American
Dream”. Losing my grandfather and returning to the north woods had shown
me where home really is. It is with family and God and where your roots are.
I had drifted away from the true values I had learned early in life.
I resigned my position, cashed out the 401(k), and bought the homestead from
grandma. We planted 24 fruit trees and installed irrigation systems for the
gardens. We
pruned the grape vines back and tended to the asparagus beds. My wife renewed
the old flower beds and I have replaced the split rail fence. We re-roofed
everything. The folks put down another well up the field and had another septic
system installed
for their travel trailer. We had a 100 amp power drop installed and we also
buried a power cable from the field to the trailer for a 12 volt system (small
scale
solar and wind).
I once again could use guns after living in the tyranny of Massachusetts. (I
refused to get an Firearms ID card so my guns never left the house in 16 years.)
I taught a niece
and nephew to shoot with the same .22 that grandpa used to teach me with almost
50 years ago. My nephew, now an 8th grader, got his first deer this past year.
No one believed him when he came home and told them. He did it on his own.
Things have now come full circle in our life. My grandma lives with us in her
old house through the summer. My sisters are both Grandmas themselves now and
they are taking care of our mom and dad. The kids have great-grandparents and
a great-great grandmother. My understanding wife of thirty years and I live
here on the homestead as stewards of the family heritage. The whole family
gets together
up here once or twice a year. We know how to provide for and take care of each
other. If the SHTF my sisters and the rest of the family will head up here
to the homestead and once again adopt the ways of our Great-Great Grandpa and
Grandma.
Everything we have learned through our lives will serve us well. Skill sets
from the north woods and from the farm are derived from living simple, living
manual
and living with nature as part of nature.
We used to fall to sleep on a feather tick mattress while listening to rain
tapping over our heads in the loft of the old log cabin. Bedtime stories were
told as
we drifted to sleep and the whippoorwills sang into the night. We didn’t
think that the day would come that just about all of what we learned from our
family and from our life would come into play. Thank God for our tight family
and all of the distilled knowledge passed down to us. I now live in a home
built over the site of the original log cabin and now we have 7 generations
since my
great-great grandparents first cleared this piece of land. It looks like we
will be talking of another “Great Depression” soon and the complete
cycle renews. Do we learn from our mistakes?
Preparedness Skills and Materials
We’re preparing for the future and I hope to teach what I can to as many
people as I can before it’s over. We can survive well if we draw on one
another’s strengths and knowledge. It starts with the family and moves
out to the extended family then to the neighbors and on to town folk and into
the blogosphere. Many people have grown up in similar circumstances and have
similar experiences. We must practice our learned skills and trades all of
the time to stay fresh and perpetuate our way of life. We must keep acquiring
new
skills and more materials for survival. Preparedness is a constant quest.
Survival trades that I've learned:
ASE Certified Master Auto Technician
Journeyman Machinist and Apprentice Welder.
Experience with all aspects of house construction from framing to finish work,
including house wiring and plumbing for water, gas and DWV systems.
Professional ditch digger and home brewer of beer.
Survival tools, equipment, and material acquired over the years:
Comprehensive set of Snap-On hand tools, diagnostic equipment and garage.
Several redundant computers and complete wi-fi coverage with satellite internet.
All of the carpentry, plumbing and electrical tools needed to build a house.
All of the tools required to garden both manually and with gas engines.
Fence building tools and supplies.
5,500 watt gas generator.
Wood stove and saws, axes, mauls, wedges.
Stores of food, bits of gold and silver, books and manuals, and lots of lead.
Survival firearms battery:
Auto-Ordinance Model 1911A1 .45 ACP (I qualified Marksman in USCG)
Stag Arms AR-15 with 20” Bull barrel, 5.56 (I qualified Expert in USCG)
Marlin .22 WMR (squirrel / varmint gun)
Mossberg .22 LR (shot this since 1962)
Ruger M77 Mk II .270 Win. (my deer rifle)
Winchester Model 94 .32 Win. Special (got my first deer with Grandpa’s
gun)
Mossberg 12 ga. 3 -1/2” Ulti-Mag in Camo (turkey / duck / goose gun)
Winchester Model 1897 12 ga. 2-3/4” (I've shot this gun since 1969)
Reloading equipment and supplies (loads for Barnes Bullets)
Survival Quest 2009 (the final pieces I'll need for grid down and
"zombies"):
Ruger M77 Mk II .300 Win Mag with optics
A manual water pump (the old pump is
gone)
Wind turbine and photovoltaic panels for water pumping and power generation.
Battery bank and inverter
More kerosene lamps
Night Vision for the AR-15
Radios
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Letter Re: Beeswax Candles as an Emergency Heat and Light Source
Hi Jim,
Here are a few links for Beeswax survival "cooking" candles. They
burn cleaner and longer than paraffin and are also considered safer. (Though
they may not be the best choice for burning outdoors in bear country!)
Pheylonian
Survival Candles
Pheylonian
eShop
Zen Stoves
- All Grace, No Slack, Really-Reformed Kris
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My Tale of the Hurricane Rita Evacuation. August, 2005, by Dan G.
I was working in a pawnshop in Aransass Pass Texas, about 20 miles North of
Corpus Christi, Texas. Two days earlier my wife and I watched the destruction
of New
Orleans on National Television, the news coverage was continuing around the clock
as the drama unfolded.
Gasoline had shot up from $1.56 to $2.99 a gallon overnight and of course
I had to fill up that morning to get to my menial low paying job. Late that
afternoon
a rich looking couple driving a huge brand new pickup truck, came into the pawnshop.
They spoke very loudly about how their family members in New Orleans did not
have electricity and were relying on them for help. How they communicated [with
those in New Orleans], I did not know. The pawn shop owner had two used generators
and this couple was
desperate to buy them, even hundreds of miles away from Louisiana, generators
had become scarce. The couple bought both of them, at an extra high price, and
the owner asked how they were going to get them to New Orleans for their family
members to use. “Well” said the man, “we can’t drive
up there because the roads are closed, so we are going to take these to the UPS
office and have them shipped to New Orleans, no matter what it costs.” No
one revealed to this man the flaw in his thinking. My Wife and I had a good laugh
about that when I got home that day.
September 20, 2005.
We were very concerned about Rita’s progress that night, after Katrina
everyone was in near panic.
September 21, 2005
They called the evacuation that morning, we had no money and our car was hardly
running, there was no way it would make it inland several hundred miles, even
if we had money for gas. The storm looked like it was going to make a direct
hit where we lived in Rockport, Texas 30 miles North of Corpus, and right on
the coast. Our financial situation was dire, my Wife had lost her job, and after
an altercation with my manager at the pawnshop, I had quit mine. We were awaiting
an inheritance to come through, but it had not happened yet. The job prospects
in the small tourist town, in the off season, were grim. I thought about just
sitting tight, but the lives of my Wife and kids prompted me into action. With
reluctance and a feeling of failure as a man, I called my Father for help.
Jobs, money and status were the code that my father lived by, even though he
had never held a low wage job in his life. He agreed to help, and reservations
at a hotel in Wimberly Texas were made, before the golden horde set out from
Houston. We would leave in the morning in my father’s truck, heading roughly
two hundred miles inland. Wimberly is located between Austin and San Antonio
Texas. I spent the afternoon of that day boarding up my Father’s house
in the nearly 115 degree heat and humidity. After that was accomplished my Wife
and I needed to pick up a few things in town including a prescription. It was
completely surreal in Rockport late that afternoon. The streets were all but
abandoned, trash fluttered in the wind on the empty sidewalks, most business
were already closed. The schools had closed at noon that day, and the children
sent home. Even the sky had a peculiar orange brown cloud cover that was unnerving.
A hand painted cardboard sign adorned the windows at Super Wal-Mart stating that
the store would be closing at 6pm, less than an hour away. The parking lot contained
a handful of RVs and pick-ups with travel trailers, all of them were loading
up canned goods, bottled water, propane, charcoal, flashlights, batteries and
ammunition. We had about $6 at the local bank, but we also had a $300 overdraft
privilege, the decision was made to exercise it. The ATM machines had been limited
to dispensing only $80 at a time for only 3 transactions, to keep the machines
from running out of cash. The ATM’s were also adorned with crudely made
cardboard signs. We took our $80 out 3 times, with a $25 overdraft charge each
time, that we would owe the bank at a later date. Inside Wal-mart it looked as
if the hurricane had already struck, the store was a mess, and the employees
had a haggard appearance. We picked up the prescription, there were no more batteries
to be had, but I needed a box of .45 ACPs.
People had paid attention to the mayhem that followed hurricane Katrina, this
was evident at the ammunition counter. They were out of shotgun shells, all common
rifle rounds were gone, the same held true for common pistol rounds. All they
had were oddball cartridges, .357 SIG, .45 G.A.P. .17 Remington, .300 Weatherby
Magnum, et cetera. Even the .22 LR were gone. There would be no .45 ACPs for
me, so we headed home. We passed several gas stations, again with crude signs,
stating they had only premium fuel. We got home to get ourselves and our kids
ready to
evacuate in the morning. The television news reported that the hurricane was
gaining
strength, they still had no idea where it would make landfall, and residents
of Houston were “urged” to evacuate now in a few hours it would be “mandatory”.
I felt it was imperative for the members of my family to be equipped with proper
footwear, in case there was trouble and we wound up walking. My 11 year old fashion
aware daughter proved to be a problem, all she had was girly shoes that were
otherwise useless. We scrambled to find her some walking shoes, deep in the closet
we found a pair. Also in the closet we located a forgotten partial box of .45ACPs,
at least my magazines would all be loaded. I vowed to never be caught
without
essentials like walking shoes and ammo again.
We packed light, I backed up my family photos and writings onto a CD-ROM and
packed it, we included socks and a change of clothes for everyone, all of our
important paperwork and identification and full canteens. Into my backpack went
half of our cash, one 1911 Colt .45 Automatic with five magazines on a gun belt,
one large Ontario Razor sharp hunting knife, one Swiss Champ, my medications
including a good supply of aspirin, salt tablets and Dramamine. One compass,
a military poncho, foot powder, boonie hats and a copy of “Conan the Adventurer” By
Robert E. Howard. Everyone also had high energy snacks and a poncho. As we went
to bed that night the TV reported more bad news.
September, 22 2005
This would be the day that I would learn how truly fragile our complex modern
society is, I would also learn that by avoiding groupthink and with a little
forward planning most hazards could be easily bypassed.
After disconnecting the water, electricity and gas to our house my Dad arrived
and we loaded up by 9 a.m. . As I got into the truck my Father handed me a
Texas Roads map book and said, “I have picked out our own evacuation
route.” he
had traveled the roads of Texas his entire life and knew every back road there
was. The penciled in evacuation route would prove to be our saving grace. Many
lives were lost that day because people and bureaucrats could not or would
not read a simple road map; instead they relied on digital gimmickry and an
unswerving belief that the interstate highway system was the only roadway available
to them.
Urgency bordering on panic was wafting on the air, you could feel the tension,
and see the worry on other motorists faces. We headed out on the first of many
Farm to Market (FM) roads crisscrossing the state. Traffic on these back roads
was still heavier than I had ever seen it. Towns we went through appeared deserted
until you reached gas stations that were near riot conditions many were out
of gas. Luckily my father had filled up the previous night, if he hadn’t
we may have very well been stranded in the choking gasping heat that day. We
switched back and forth onto differing FM roads to avoid more and more traffic,
every town was congested, we had long waits at every stop light and four way
crossing. A three hour trip had turned to six hours and counting, we stopped
at small hamburger joint for lunch, it was jam packed, as we ordered we overheard
other folks talking. Rumors were flying about accidents, fires, turmoil and
gridlock on Interstate 10, they still had no idea where Rita was headed. We
got our order and headed back out eating in the truck, the little town was
swamped with cars and people, one person was driving on the sidewalk, there
were no police in sight.
Between towns on the FM roads it was easy going, but as you neared any community
there was chaos, as the afternoon progressed, many a crude sign could be seen
proclaiming “No more gas”, No more food”, this was repeated
again and again. We were coming up on Seguin Texas when traffic came to a halt,
we were about to cross over I-10 the main evacuation route out of Houston.
Out of the truck window along the horizon I could make out several columns
of black smoke. It took over an hour to travel the two miles to the overpass
and then I saw I-10. All the lanes had been re-routed to head west only, It
was like a scene from a movie, as far as I could see there were lines of cars,
both to the east and the west pointed in a single direction. There was no end,
none of them was moving, more columns of smoke could be seen in the distance
what caused them I did not know.
Heat rippled off the metal and in automobile exhaust, the evacuees could not
turn off their engines, if they did there would be no air conditioning and
heat prostration would quickly find them, especially the old and the very young.
Along the roads sides people could be seen walking, I guess they had abandoned
their vehicles in search of a respite from the heat. A fuel truck was also
traveling on the road side, it was not stopping for anyone, and a few police
cruisers traveled the road sides as well, the only vehicles in motion along
that nightmarish interstate.
Late in the afternoon we arrived in Wimberly and checked into the Motel, which
was completely booked and we were the last people with a reservation to arrive.
My father was staying with a friend in Wimberly and he left us his truck. We
headed to the grocery store to lay in our supplies it was crowded but not overrun
yet. We bought three days of food for a family of four and headed back to the
hotel. The storms heading was still uncertain, but at last we enjoyed some
peace and laughter. Later that night we decided to run back into town and get
some ice cream, there was chaos in Wimberly this time. The grocery store we
had been at just hours earlier was stripped bare. They had cleaning supplies
and some make-up but that was about it, there was no more food of any kind
to be had, no drinks, no water and no toilet paper. The streets were packed
stalled cars littered the roadways and every gas station was out of fuel. We
went back to the hotel, grateful that we had bought supplies earlier. We watched
the TV and heard horror stories of what was going on, events that we had witnessed
throughout the day. The night passed without incident.
September, 23 2005
We spent the day relaxing at the hotel late in the afternoon Hurricane Rita
made her turn to the North making the previous two days an exercise in futility.
She struck in the early morning hours on September, 24 between the Texas/Louisiana
border, while we were safely asleep at the hotel. We went home as the storm
moved inland.
Lessons Learned:
I believe that after Katrina officials overreacted to Rita in ordering the
evacuation of Houston, Many died needlessly. This is a danger we still face
today, not just the storms but the hysteria surrounding them.
After our experience we gave up on the coast and moved to Oklahoma, we live
a hundred miles from any major city and we keep stores of food, ammo, water
and medical supplies on hand in case we need them in a hurry. Never
again will we be caught unprepared!
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Letter Re: Selecting Retreat Properties--Pros and Cons of Buying Remote and Off Grid
Jim:
To follow-up on your
recent article, a very big “Pro” to buying
off-grid land that was not mentioned is that you will not have strangers
having
access to
your
property.
I am specifically
referring to the Meter Reader for the utility company. I have “country” property
on the Grid and have to furnish the Meter Reader a key to access the property
to read the electric meter. The Meter Reader comes once a month to read the
meter. I have not figured a way to deny them access. (Maybe you have a suggestion
on how to prevent the meter reader from accessing the property) This stranger
therefore has access to the property and also has a key to the gate and obviously
has some knowledge of what is physically located on the property since he traverses
the property to get to the meter. Being off grid puts you in a position to
be able to keep everyone off of the property which to me carries a lot of value.
- Carl D.
JWR Replies: Don't forget the propane delivery truck. But
at least that can be scheduled for once every couple of years, at your convenience,
and you don't need to give them a gate key.
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Selecting Retreat Properties--Pros and Cons of Buying Remote and Off Grid
I recently had a consulting client that hired me to do a search on his behalf
for a rural retreat property in southwestern Oregon. In the early stages of
the search, he asked about the pros and cons of buying undeveloped "off
grid"
properties that do not have utility power poles nearby. This summarizes my
reply:
From the standpoint of setting up a rural, self-sufficient retreat, an off-grid
parcel is actually advantageous, for two reasons:
1.) They are generally more remote and away from natural "lines of drift" and
hence are far less likely to be in the path of the Golden
Horde.
2.) Off-grid properties sell at up to a 30% discount versus comparable properties
that have grid power. On a large acreage, this savings is often enough to pay
for installing a photovoltaic power system
The downsides:
1.) Off-grid properties tend to be at higher elevation, since
it is just the "way out in the hills" properties that don't have
power poles nearby. Most of the low river valleys have long hence had grid
power. There are a few exception that I've encountered
2.) The property is unlikely to have line of sight to neighboring residences.
That can raise the risk of burglary if your retreat house is left unoccupied
for extended periods of time.
3.) There is remote (30+ minute drive to the nearest
town), and then there is very remote--a one hour+ drive to the nearest
town, part of which might be on either US Forest Service road or a road that
you have to maintain yourself. This could isolate you from commerce and social
interaction
especially in an era of fuel scarcity.
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Six Letters Re: Some Thoughts on the Survival Vehicle
Jim –
Read the article [by OddShot] about the BOV and
wanted to add a ranching note. Some of us ranchers have pickups with a trailer
hitch mounted in the front
as
well
as
the back. This makes pulling trailers out of awkward situations easier without
having to turn the truck around. Added to a substantial front bumper, it makes
front
ramming an interesting proposition, as that hitch – with a draw-bar but
no ball – would do some serious damage. Kind of like the bronze prow
on a Greek warship. Just an idea. - Geoff in ND
JWR Replies: While I'm not an advocate of playing
"Road Warrior"--(I'm more of a "hunker down" in place kinda
guy)--in my dealings with consulting clients I've witnessed quite a few "specialized" custom-fabricated
bumper accessories. Most of these were variations of crash bars. (My old friend
"Jeff
Trasel",
for example, many
years ago owned
a camouflage-painted Volkswagen festooned with various Marine Corps bumper
stickers and equipped with a very stout crash bar.) I've also seen
all manner of nefarious
devices designed to fit into standard 2-inch square receiver hitch
channels.
The biggest advantage of these is that they can be quick-detachable, allowing
them to be kept out of sight in normal (pre-Schumeresque)
times. One of these was a clever pair of "radiator killer" spikes.
The 1-1/2" diameter spikes on this were both nearly three feet long.
and tapered for just their last eight inches. The bottom one projected directly
out from
the receiver,
at just below
"trailer
ball"
height.
The other half of the forked pair was parallel to the first, but about 15
inches higher. If
ramming another vehicle, at least one of these two spikes would likely
puncture the radiators of 90% of the cars and trucks that anyone might encounter
on the
highways
and byways. When installed in a rear hitch mount, the barbs are a primarily
defensive weapon. But when
installed in a pickup's front receiver, they can act as
a fearsome offensive anti-radiator weapon.
Hello Jim,
I would like to add one thing to the article by Oddshot. Fix-A-Flat
type [aerosol tire sealant] products can freeze and not flow in cold weather,
rendering it useless. I learned this the hard way during a recent cold snap
here in
Ohio.
Although
I disagree with his comments on diesels it was an informative article. Thanks,
- Jeff in Ohio.
Mr. Rawles,
I rarely contribute an opinion here because my expertise pales in comparison
to many who are listed in here. The gentleman who recommended the Ford F150
as a base unit for a survival vehicle is spot on. I would go one stop further
and recommend a early to mid eighties F150 or F250 with a 300 straight six
engine coupled with Fords famous "three speed with granny low" standard
transmission. Used to sell trucks to horse and other farmers in the early nineties
at a very large new Ford lot. The young guys (me included) bought the big diesels
for their stock trailers and the old guys would buy the straight six. Guess
who never needed to come into the shop. You got it, the old guys. That straight
six will pull almost as good as the diesel including up and down hills with
the only sacrifice being a little lower top speed. It is a very simple engine
to work on (if you ever have to-very reliable). I still own and use my 1991
Ford diesel but in retrospect would have spent much less and gotten the 300
straight six if I had it to do over again.
From a construction stand point the Fords of that era were built and designed
much better than it's competition. The beds were bolted on instead of welded
etc. Their only weakness is a tendency to rust out over the wheel wells.
I am a MOPAR guy who comes from a MOPAR family. But when you take emotion,
and prejudice out of the equation, the light Ford pickup of the eighties was
indeed the best of its contemporaries for durability and simplicity
for your dollar. - GSJ
Sir James,
Tires rot. There is a five year expected useful safe design
life. The valving on shock absorbers wear, and their chrome shafts also
rust. Replace tires when truck
is purchased
and once every five
years even if tread depth measures (US penny Lincoln's head = 1/16" tread
depth remains).
I have been driving 1 ton pickups ever since I was 16 years old (in 1964).
Over the [intervening 45] years, I have used bias tube type, tubeless,
with and without tubes, and radials. While aluminum lug holes can wear and
rims can break, their beads don't rust air leaks as steel rims eventually do
[in
regions where road salt is used].
My '72 3/4 ton , owned since new, "3 door" Suburban project now has
17"x7" as backspacing on more common 16"s mismatched with OEM 16.5" steel
rims. They rusted leaks after 25+ years. The 17" wheels
allow for larger front disk brake upgrades. I use 265-70Rx17" LR E =
235-85Rx16" LR
E tire diameter nominal 32" tall,
the latter being the most common skinny tire on 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks.
I advise replacing all moving/flexing rubber, such as belts, every three years
and rubber hoses every five years. Yes, I have had family members get 20 plus
years, but that
takes pure Grace to miss anything in between inconvenient to catastrophic
failure.
Replace the mindsets of "can you get by until the lease has run out" or "trade
as soon as you're no longer upside down". These paid-for bug-out buggies are
your
best means of not carrying your kit on your back for a decade or more, if you
can keep it fed.
My plan is to have a 110 mph-capable, 400 horsepower and 400 pound ft. +
5 speed with overdrive and a gear splitting overdrive (unit gearing) truck
capable
of towing
and stopping
five ton trailer loads, firewood, and the like
This truck shall never again be a painted lady or look as fast as it truly is.
-
Tom K.
Mr. Editor;
See the Expeditions
West web site and the vehicles they are
testing and past vehicles they recommend for the purpose of traversing cross
country in all terrain. These folks could be consider 'experts' on the subject.
Choosing a vehicle should be like choosing a firearm, where personal experience
with the equipment and the users physical attributes can be major considerations
in the choice. As apart of an intended hobby, I had hoped to build a vehicle
for the purpose and get involved with the sport. As an example I'll discuss
my primary vehicle for the purpose. Because of my extensive experience and
knowledge of the vehicle, not so much cost considerations, I chose a 1985 Toyota
4WD fuel injected pickup and spent a fair amount to thoroughly restore it.
It is #4 on Expedition West's most recommended list along with more modern
vehicles. They state the major reasons for the choice. Fortunately there are
other and more modern vehicles on their list, so there's something there for
everyone.
A quick and incomplete mention of the Pro's and Con's of some my vehicle's attributes.
The drive train is essentially a scaled down and lighter version of the Toyota
FJ40, and like the FJ40, exceptionally tough. Chevy trucks have been known to
bend frames on trails these Toyota's climb like goats. Albeit a light truck,
it can can handle a useful and relatively heavy payload for it's size, passenger
capacity and fuel economy. It offers one of the highest payload to fuel economy
ratio found in any gasoline powered 4WD truck.
The 1985 [model year] is the only Toyota pickup with the durable straight front
axle
and
more powerful and modern, yet simple fuel injected motor. A separate computer
is not
needed to help with diagnostics. Any reasonable mechanic or intelligent young
person can handle the job. A small trailer can be towed and navigate tight Forest
Service roads, and a larger trailer with electric brakes can safely handle fair
amount weight. The truck's towing capacity is a reasonable 3,500 pounds, exceptionally
high for it's class. In light of a possible EMP attack,
it's major weakness is the computer controlled fuel injection and ignition. The
upside to a modern EFI
motor is the availability of emission control devices which may need replacement
and these parts can be had at lower cost than the latest models. Out here in
boonies, we're lucky that Emission Certification is not required. With some modification,
this 1985 model can use the injection system from a 1995 models. Fortunately
I happen to have several spare and complete sets of replacement parts for the
fuel and secondary ignition systems for 1985 to 1990 models. I also have plenty
of spare parts for the rest of vehicle stored in boxes and extra and operational
vehicles that can be used as parts cars. The vehicle is common in this sparsely
populated neck of the woods and spare parts are plentiful, but not as plentiful
as the old Chevys. The key to utilizing the parts of different years and related
models vehicles is to have intimate knowledge of the subtle changes made from
year to year. A mechanic with such knowledge could be invaluable. I'm not a mechanic
by trade, but a passion for these trucks during my youth led me to research and
discover the vast technical support and knowledge available on the internet from
other enthusiasts of this once very popular truck. To be sure, my parts pile
is considerable and includes spare gear sets, transmissions, suspension, and
axles, to the now difficult to obtain distributors, cylinder heads and exhaust
manifolds and so forth. A complete and spare, yet still running 4WD Toyota truck
can be stripped of it's carburetor and accessories if needed or simply driven
as is. This un-restored "spare" 4WD truck is still serviceable and equipped with
a flat bed, a good wood getter that can squeeze and navigate though narrow openings
and roads. Because of it's high mileage and other attributes, I do not consider
it a primary vehicle. Another complete low mileage and running 2wd of the same
year could donate it it's EFI. It is essentially a copy of my primary vehicle
without the 4WD.
Spare and complete sets of stock and oversized tires on rims allow these vehicles
to operate on any terrain or road conditions from sand dunes to deeper mud and
snow. With only stock sized tires, which are adequate for most trails and roads,
these trucks do surprisingly well. Letting the air out of the tires to no less
than 15 psi greatly improves there performance in sand. Tall and narrow tires
are recommended over tall and wide usually seen as the foot print is actually
greater 'aired down'. The rolling resistance is less on the highway and it 'bites'
into dirt and snow far better. It is a well balanced choice in off road tires.
This is a topic of it's own and I'll leave it with a recommendation that 23575R16
tires are the best all around for many 4WD vehicles, including Toyota trucks.
No suspension modification is required for most.
Regardless of your choice, a good 'yard car' or well used and still running spare
vehicle, is wonderful source of parts. Rust buckets are cheap.
New and used carburetors for many full sized and light foreign and domestic trucks
are becoming difficult to find.
Rebuild kits for carburetors are a good idea. Although the older Toyota's are
my personal favorite, we also have fleet of Chevy's, model years from 1964 into
the 1980s: a 1 ton, flatbed, dump bed, standard and 4WD Suburbans. Not only
do these all run, but: "Hey, parts is parts!" We also have a "Toyolet",
a Toyota
FJ40
[that has been retrofitted] with a powerful V8 Chevy motor and heavy duty
Turbo 400 transmission, with air lockers and other serious off road features.
Even with all it's fancy stuff,
my 1985 Toyota does well off road in comparison while getting 24 mpg on
the highway. Although not a practical daily driver, it would fun in the sun and
useful
in a high speed Mad Max world, yet one would need plenty of stored fuel.
Well, it looks like I've ramble on anyway, so it time to quit. Hopefully some
of areas covered provide helpful tips and considerations. With all the factors
one may consider, a big clue on what to buy could found while driving around
the neighborhood. Consider using the tool the natives have found to be the most
useful. If old Chevy's are plentiful, get a Chevy. Then again perhaps it is Ford
or Toyota as the popular choice. The local junkyard is likely loaded with parts.
Even if an older Toyota is your 'thing', be sure to have a full sized carbureted
Pickup on hand, preferable a 3/4 ton, and make sure one of those truck is 4WD,
preferably the Toyota, especially if you intend to live in a heavily forested
area. It may mean taking two trips to get the wood, yet it can go where the wood
is and usually a pickup is driven mostly empty. As bug out vehicle or wood getter,
no full sized can follow it down those very narrow jeep trails or traverse soft
deep sand. A Toyota could get between 19 and 24 mpg loaded/unloaded, and a full-sized
would get between 8 and 12 mpg whether or not, it is loaded. A full size 3/4
ton should be used and is needed to handle the very heavy work. As always, use
the right tool for the job. A 2WD full sized pickup can often be found in better
condition and at a cheaper price. A 3/4 ton 4WD Chevy Suburban can be a very
inexpensive all around family and farm rig. A late model and nearly new high
tech Chevy or Ford might be the worst choice, but always have a low tech truck
on hand if one needs or already has such a vehicle. As a retired fleet manager,
I suggest keeping it simple. - E.L
James,
Upon reading the recommendations about a "survival vehicle" by OddShot,
I see you posted about turning off airbags. I believe that the author was
speaking about supplemental airbags for the rear suspension in pickup trucks,
not the
vehicle
passenger
protection-type airbags.
He had mostly sound advice, but I'm not sure an automatic
is really a liability, a properly maintained automatic is trouble free and
will last a long, long time. With an automatic you're pretty much
guaranteed that someone can hop in your rig and drive it effectively. In
contrast, with
a manual transmission (especially truck transmissions), a person has
to have manual transmission experience in order to
use it. Things
like this most likely would never come into play, but an automatic is a lot
easier for an injured or inexperienced person to use. - A. Friendly
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Some Thoughts on the Survival Vehicle, by OddShot
I recently had the opportunity to read JWR's novel "Patriots"
.
As a former professional automobile mechanic with 25+ years of experience and
having a similar history building, restoring and racing
British sports cars (MGBs), I became intrigued with a certain aspect
of his book: the preparation of a “survival vehicle." This is intended
to be a vehicle rugged enough, durable enough, and simple enough to be an important
part of anyone’s survival program.
My first consideration was to define this vehicle. Next, I set out to list
a number of modifications to this vehicle that would increase it’s simplicity,
strength, and usefulness of this vehicle as a survival tool. The following
that I listed a number of tools and spares important to the operation of this
vehicle.
Survival Vehicle Selection and Modification
For reasons of strength, durability and utility the vehicle needs to be a truck.
For load carrying considerations I would recommend a Pickup Truck over a SUV type, such as a Blazer or Bronco.
I think the truck should be of American manufacture. Although some foreign
makes might be suitable in terms of ruggedness and durability, the parts availability---both
used and new--for American made trucks makes them the winner, hands-down.
Also parts for “high-survivability” modifications are plentiful
and cheap for American vehicles.
There is a reason that America’s largest selling vehicle for the last
50+ years has been the Ford F150 pickup truck. They may be low on creature
comforts and fuel economy, but they more then make up for those sacrifices
with ruggedness,
dependability, ease of repair, and parts availability. Chevy and Dodge make
great trucks, but there are millions more Ford
Pick-up trucks out there. Parts are still available and junkyards and rural
back yards are filled
with
them.
Older vehicles (1970 or 1980s vintage cars and trucks) with older technology
are better in the survival situations than newer, lighter, hi-tech vehicles.
Carburetors, distributors with breaker points, and generator charging systems
may not be the most fuel efficient…but they are simple, rugged and reliable.
They can be rebuilt and maintained very easily. Fuel Injection and High Energy
Ignitions systems have very limited life spans, are difficult to diagnose and
dead without spare parts.
One drawback is that NOS parts for really old vehicles (1960-1975 +/-) are
getting somewhat harder to find, even finding used stuff is getting
tough. You don’t need much…but if you can’t get it now…you
won’t
be able to get it later. If you can stick with an 1980s vintage +/-
American pickup. As I said before, parts are still available
and junkyards and rural back yards are filled with them.
Choose one with a 302 V8 (minimum), with a [traditional] carburetor! Backdate
the engine by installing a distributor with ignition breaker points and condenser. No electronic
ignition. The electronic ignition is a [reliability] weak link of all Ford
V8s. Just look in the glove box or under the seat of most of them and you’ll
find a spare “spark box” or Ignition module. Ford used points and
condensers on their V8s through 1974. A little digging through Craig's
List or most junk yards should yield a good useable distributor. New ones
are available at most speed shops.
Make sure you get a truck with a manual transmission, and try to get four wheel
drive. Avoid automatic transmissions. If for no other reason:cars
with automatic transmissions can not be push-started. Also, with a
manual transmission …if
you can get two gears to mesh…you can keep rolling. Once an automatic
transmission starts to slip, the party is over.
With a manual transmission you can adjust a clutch unless you’ve burned
it up. In the middle of nowhere you can replace a burned clutch (and even reline
the disc if you really had to), but the rebuild of an automatic transmission
requires an expert with lots of spares and spotlessly clean working conditions.
Also, with a manual transmission, were the clutch linkage give up, there are
techniques you can learn to take off and shift without using the clutch pedal.
Because this vehicle should be multi-terrain and multi-use Do not put
great big tires or lift kits on it. I would beef up the rear springs to carry
more
weight but would not raise the height of the rear. Don’t use air shocks
or air bags either. These are just something else that will break
and “let
you down”. [JWR Adds: As is taught at executive protection
driving schools, airbags should be disabled if anticipating inimical situations
where you might
have to play "bumper cars".]
I’m thinking of lowering my Ford a couple of inches to make it easier
and faster to get into and out of. Lowering the truck will also make it handle
better on asphalt…and maybe even make it a bit more aerodynamic for some
fuel savings. The extra road clearance is nice but how many times are you going
to use that advantage? Not as often as you might need to get in and get going
as fast as possible.
You’ll want the ruggedness of 6 ply truck tires. Choose
ones that have a “mildly aggressive” tread pattern allowing a good
mix of on-road and off-road use. Unless you are considering moving way out
in the woods then avoid strictly off-road tires. They will not give
you the wear and handling needed for use on asphalt [and they are quite
noisy at highway speeds].
Up grade the charging system to a 65 Amp. alternator, minimum. You’ll
want the amps to power other electrical devices. Install two batteries wired
in parallel (for 12 VDC,
many amp. output). One battery should be a “Deep
Cycle” type. This battery can power 12 VDC lights, radios, tools etc.
Also, if the alternator dies while on a long drive, this battery set up can
power a V8 ignition system for a long time. The batteries should have
their ground
wires
connected with “marine” type terminals. Simply disconnecting (unscrewing
the wing nut on the Marine Terminal) the ground side of the batteries [or installing
a battery disconnect switch from JC
Whitney]
can prevent them being discharged by shorts or [unexpected] draws. It can also
somewhat reduce the risk
of vehicle theft.
Consider removing the ignition/steering column lock switch. If you don’t…you
could loose your keys…and “hot wire” the ignition/starter
circuits and get the truck running….but imagine your chagrin when you
realize that the steering is locked! A heavy duty DC toggle switch will take
care of the ignition and a [momentary] pushbutton [DC switch] will handle the
starter. Mount them in a hidden, out of the way place.
Remove the very complicated emission control carburetor and
replace it with the simplest Holley 2 or 4 barrel that you can find.
I prefer gasoline engines. Diesels are okay, but I don’t think
there will be a lot of diesel fuel around. You may not always be able to get
diesel or even cooking oil. Consider converting your truck to a multiple fuel
vehicle using both gasoline and propane. LPG is
still very easy to get and easy to store at home. A conversion to propane is very doable …and
not real expensive, especially on an engine equipped with a carburetor.
There are number of sites on the web that discuss this.
A good number of pickup trucks have two fuel tanks…if yours doesn’t,
consider installing another tank. There is a lot of room under most trucks.
Build in onboard storage for 20 gallons minimum…or and extra 250 mile range.
Remove all emissions control equipment, at least the catalytic
converter. [Of course, first consult your state laws before doing so.] Remove
the metal cooling fan and install electric fan for engine cooling. If you take
a hard
front hit,
then those metal bladed fans will destroy a radiator.
You can do this with a junk yard fan unit…or find something in the JC
Whitney catalog,
or any auto parts store. As a side benefit, you may see some improvement in
fuel
economy, due to the reduction of parasitic drag.
Wire
this
electric fan with sensor and a manual override switch on dash.
Consider installing an oversized radiator and coolant overflow tank. Trucks
that came with air conditioning generally have the biggest radiator. The more
coolant you have in the cooling system is the further you can go if the radiator
gets a hole in it and you just can’t stop to fix it right away.
Install a Class 3 towing hitch. Its good for both towing and for ramming [--
with the ball removed from the hitch extension plate, to back up and pierce
another vehicle's
radiator].
Make sure you carry both popular sized hitch balls. Remove the chrome piece
of garbage
that passes for a front bumper and install a heavy duty store bought or home
built. Again, the front bumper should be sufficient for towing or ramming.
Install hooks for towing on both the front and rear bumpers.
A cap or bed cover should be in place over the truck’s bed to allow space
for sleeping, shelter and dry, secure storage. This can be as elaborate or
as simple as you’d like but due to rearward visibility concerns, make
sure that its not higher or wider than the roof of the cab. Due to weight and
height considerations [adversely affecting center of gravity] I would avoid
campers that install in the bed of a pickup.
You might consider finding a used tool box like the ones you see on the back
of pickups used by plumbers and electricians…this would be the ones
that replace the entire pickup bed and have 5 or 6 compartments on each side.
The Reading brand tool bodies are well-made. These have tremendous utility,
secure and dry storage and are all very strongly built. With a little ingenuity
you
could
configure
a knock down tent over the top of one of these giving you dry off-the –ground
shelter. Again, the deep cycle battery can provide 12 VDC for lights and heat
in this area.
Install commo [and communications scanning] gear as appropriate
to your mission. At least be sure to have a good, strong basic AM & FM
radio. [JWR
Adds: At
wrecking yards, you
can sometimes find a Becker
or Blaupunkt brand "Europa", "Mexico" or similar model
AM/FM/Shortwave radio pulled
from a European car such as a Mercedes Benz, for under $50. These are not only
very
reliable
radios,
but will also give you the opportunity to get WWV time
signals and some international broadcasts.]
Install quartz halogen headlights in the front. I wouldn’t bother with
driving lights but I would install fog lights…mounted in a way as to
light to the immediate front and to the sides for cornering. In the rear, I
would mount driving lamps or fog lamps as back up lights, work lamps or rearward
spot lights. Wire all auxiliary lighting with switches on dash.
Remove all electrical systems not necessary to mission. No power windows
or door locks. Remove the air conditioning system. Electric windows,
door locks, fancy [add-on] heating systems
and
other
fancy
electric doo-dads are to be avoided at all costs.
As I said before, automatic transmissions should be considered a liability.
Put in Bucket seats, especially in a pickup. They are easier/faster to get
into and out of…and will create more storage space in the cab. Gun racks?
If desired, make them solidly mounted and as far out of sight as possible.
Onboard tools will be important to keep your survival vehicle
operational. All should be secure and hard-mounted.
Carry an appropriate workshop manual with wiring diagrams.
Study it carefully and know how to reference its various sections.
Complete Automotive hand tool kit.
Heavy duty jack, jack stands and wheel chocks.
An onboard portable compressor, even a small 12 VDC model has a lot of usefulness.
If you can afford a larger one, then you can run pneumatic tools with it.
Portable generator. As much and as good as you can afford. Its just plain worth
it.
Tow Chain, shackles and tow hooks, various rope and line.
1-1⁄2 ton power winch or chain hoist or block and fall. I would consider
something that is not hard mounted so you can use it from the front or rear
of the vehicle…or not even need the vehicle at all.
Propane torches and solder/rosin for soldering wires and radiator repair. Learn
how to solder!
Electric wiring, electrical crimp connectors, electrical tape, spare switches,
heat shrink tubing, nylon wire (cable) ties.
Onboard Axe, shovel, pry bar.
12 VDC mechanic's drop lamp.
Additional fuel, lubricants, brake fluid, silicon sealant, adhesives (especially,
JB-Weld and Goop), duct tape, grease gun, thread tape, emery paper (2) spare
tires, potable water, fan belts, Radiator hoses, heater hoses, hose clamps
and tune up parts
One properly inflated spare in good condition is good, but having two
spares is even better.
Keep tire repair equipment! Six cans of Fix-a-Flat, a radial tire plug
kit and about 50 plugs. Find or make tools for breaking down and mounting tires.
Fuel
transfer pump for getting fuel [from one vehicle to another or from] out
of in-ground tanks. A hand-operated barrel pump with extensions for both the
suction
side
and the
discharge side.
Spot light (hand held)
A volt/ohm meter and mechanics test light.
Very Important: Drive your survival vehicle regularly. Use
it. Go
get plywood and shrubs and groceries in it. Work it. Houses
and vehicles need people using them. When either is not used they
deteriorate very quickly. Hard
use will keep you thinking about repairs or modifications you might want to
make. By date and mileage keep good repair and maintenance records.
A rugged dependable vehicle should be part of your survival gear. As long as
you can get fuel there is freedom in mobility. The above is not a definitive
list or the “end all to be all” one size fits all solution.
Consider
this article a starting point and add your own ideas. - The OddShot
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Letter Re: Some Preparedness Lessons Learned
James,
The need for usable skills in tough times, goes without need for embellishment.
The grand question is: which skills are the most valuable? In any situation
the basic needs are obvious – food, shelter, and clothing. Choosing what
I would concentrate on learning, became predicated on what I could do, and
what the community could provide in stressful times.
I moved some time ago from the gulf coast to Tennessee to retire and begin
preparing for the coming events. I moved into a community which is pretty much
self sufficient, mostly by religious choice. Livestock husbandry ranges from
cattle (mostly for milk), goats to chickens, hogs and horses.
I began to raise goats several years ago, starting with Boer cross. After several
discussions I have crossed them with a strain of milk goat to reduce the size
(and therefore the quantity of meat to be preserved) and gain the benefit of
milk products. I researched the process of cheese making and using products initially
supplied from New England Cheese Makers, learned the processes. It was very interesting
to discover that the rennin (for assisting in cheese making) actually comes from
the stomach of ruminators, another by product of the goats.
Preserving meats became my next concern. When talking to many folks, they believe
that they will just run out and kill fresh meat when needed. Not only will the
game be decimated in no time, but without a method of preservation it is wasteful.
Preferred methods around here are smoking, honey and salt boxes for curing and
preserving. The use of honey as a preservative turns out to be one of the very
best. Honey has a natural bacteria inhibitor, and curing smoked meats in honey
just makes life better. This in turn has determined the need for bees – My
neighbor already has a couple of hives which produces enough for now. The use
of honey reduces the dependence on obtaining sources of salt. In addition they
are many maple trees in the area which folks tap during the winter and early
spring. Many families have ponds a raise fish, which are canned by cold packing
or salting and drying.
Having fresh water is a paramount concern. Even with a spring the water quality
can change with the amount of rain causing algae blooms. These can range for
digestive distress to just foul taste. The stream water cannot be used without
treatment, as we have otters, beavers, coyote, foxes, and a whole range of other
critters, so amoeba type problems are probable. Boiling water is the surest,
but is often not the most practical. Any numbers of excellent water filters are
available, but the Big Berky is the most popular here. In any case the water
has to be pre-filtered to remove organic matter. This can be done by straining
through
a clean cloth, then passing through/over a disinfecting agent such as a silver
compound, or the addition of non-detergent bleach. The next best is a cistern
collecting rain fall, but even this can have issues as it tends to clean smoke
dust and pollen from the air on its way down.
As for the vegetable gardens the goats do help with the fertilizer which is composted
and added to the garden. The area I live in is pretty much a “rock farm” so
there is a constant need to remove the rocks from the garden areas and add in
soil from the hills behind us. This soil is usually pretty acidic with all of
the hardwood trees. Most folks use lime from the feed stores – haven’t
found a good substitute yet.
Clothing is one of the details that I have struggled with. The ability to produce
cloth is beyond most of us. Wool makes for great outer wear, but lousy underwear.
Goat hair can be made into quite durable garments, somewhat at the expense of
comfort. We have chose to use GI surplus wool socks, sweaters, BDUs
(because they are very durable) and purchase and store long and regular underwear.
We
do have a real cobbler in the community that does make very nice shoes/boots,
but I still have a back up pair. Many women here weave or quilt (using discarded
clothing as well as new cloth). I do keep some “unisex” clothing
on hand for whomever – mostly in the form of overalls. They are fairly
cheap and commonly worn in the area, and during the cold weather are an additional
layer. We have had most days at or below freezing and night down to zero. I have
looked into tanning leather – it is a noxious process and can be done.
I am choosing to have the hides tanned while I still can and store them against
the future need as clothing.
Our cabin is solid cedar timbers, and smells great! The downside is that there
is a constant need to stay on top of the chinking and calking, to reduce drafts – I’ve
used 22 tubes already this winter. We thought that pellet stove would be a great
idea – wrong. First it requires electricity. With the
power out you have to fire up the generator which is noisy and uses expensive
fuel. Second the stove
can burn corn or compressed hardwood pellets. Corn is food or the animals and
us, and tough enough to grow enough as is. Besides using the corn leaves the
odor of burned popcorn as exhaust. Compressed wood pellets are used on an average
of 80# per day at a cost of ~$9.00 / day. Pulling the stove this spring and going
to a straight quality wood burning stove that can be used to cook on. To back
up a wood burning stove an axe, buck saw, splitting wedges or a maul, and or
chain saw are required based on how much free time you can devote to it. Setting
aside wood requires a year round effort to keep from killing yourself. Although
we have electricity I do have a pitcher pump ready to install in the event it
is needed. And have simple kerosene lanterns for light. I prefer the straight
wick models, as the mantels have become very had to come by recently.
Health concerns in rural living also means, that you have to have a working knowledge
of first aid and basic medicine. The Red Cross has good courses on first aid
and the older Boy Scout manuals give an acceptable knowledge as well. Around
here there is a good deal of herbal medicine practiced. This is good for preventive
and minor issues. I have chosen to invest in some older college texts on anatomy,
physiology, and pharmacology, and a physician’s desk reference. These books
help in diagnosing, but will be of minimal help if/when the main line drugs are
not available. They are great for showing how to stitch and bandage wounds more
severe than the first aid books cover. We keep a well stocked medicine chest
with off the shelf medicines, and rotate them as needed. As we find local remedies
that are effective, we also include them (i.e. willow bark tea as a substitute
for aspirin).
I have learned rudimentary blacksmith skills, and collected some of the tools
as well as books on the subject. I can fashion horseshoes, wheel rims, forge
weld, make cut nails and a few other tasks as required. There are many better
skilled in this community and it will be more time efficient to trade/buy their
services.
I have a full time gunsmithing business which has been sorely needed in this
area – seems like everyone has one that they need fixed. So much for a
retirement business….
The acquisition of books, and how to reading material can spell the difference
between existence and some degree of comfort. In addition it is my considered
opinion the education of young people is severely unbalanced. The possession
of text books, classics, and recreational reading allows one to educate children
when contact is limited. The community has a long history of home schooling.
These kids routinely pass the high school exit exams (same tests as the state
requires for graduation) with higher scores, and at an earlier age. Most parents
seek out folks whom are well versed to teach the children. Oh yea, one by product
is that the kids are very respectful, and thoughtful.
In conclusion I thought that preparation for tougher times meant more beans,
bullets, and bullion. As it turns out, the retraining of my mind and attitudes
has presented the larger challenge. Understanding how you store food, is nearly
as important as what you store. What you can make is as important as what you
can do without (toilet paper?) Knowing that one person cannot do all that is
required, only means that you learn the skills to assist your community which
will supplement everyone’s survival/ quality of life. I thought that being
retired would allow me to kick back and enjoy some good libations. It has turned
out to be the greatest learning curve of my life – and I love it. Jim’s
preparedness course is a great place to start. But the real preparedness is in
the doing! - Dennis S.
« Letter Re: Kids and Home Security |Main| Note from JWR: »
Perspectives on Prepping on a Very Low Income, by Kuraly
I was raised in a missionary family, on nine different mission fields around
the world. At the age of nineteen, I went out to serve the Lord on my own in
the former Soviet Union. I had no formal Theological training, but was accepted
by the missionary societies of my denomination because of my experience under
my father and my willingness to go to dangerous areas.
I married, and my wife and I have now six children. A few years ago, due to
some changes in my theology, I fell out of favor with my denomination and had
to return home to the USA. I was faced with a situation of suddenly having
to feed and care for a large family with: 1. no formal education/training/skills
of any kind and 2. very little understanding of the southern American culture
that I found myself living in. I was forced to take very low-paying jobs and
survive on a low-income.
With our savings we were able to buy a small rural house and 7.5 acres in the
southeast. We were able to pay cash, I wanted it to be ours with no strings
attached, regardless of what the future held. I figured that at the very least
we would have a roof and some plantable land. I bought in the area my parents
lived in to help care for them as they progressed in years.
Our income is very limited. I work at just above minimum wage. I work a full-time
job and another part-time job. I am thankful that the Lord provides.
As I studied current events I became concerned about the possibility of a world-wide
economic and/or societal collapse of some kind, or a societal break-down here
in the USA resulting from any number of possible reasons. I had witnessed the
chaos of the nineties in the former Soviet Union, had watched doctors and physicists
sweep streets and live off of potatoes and bread for months on end, and I was
concerned about my responsibility to feed my family should a similar collapse
happen here.
What can you do when you have very limited means? Actually there is much you
can do. It amounts to setting goals and getting your family on board with you.
The first thing I did was (after my wife and I had many long talks and she
began to see things in a similar way), I gathered the family around and explained
everything to them. I explained about our limited means, exactly how much money
was coming in, how much went to utilities, fuel, etc. I explained what I believed
the dangers were. I explained what we needed to do as a family. Let me interject
here that after being born and growing up on a third-world mission field, they
were far from spoiled children! They were accustomed to living in tight quarters,
washing in cold water, eating cheap, and basically just "roughing it."
My first priority was for two weeks worth of provisions. We began to buy a
few extra cans of food when we went shopping. I set a goal of 20 dollars per
week for prepping. Some weeks ten dollars of canned goods and/or dried foods
like rice, beans or noodles, and ten dollars in ammo or medical supplies. Some
weeks just food, some weeks just extra gasoline. We bought gas cans at thrift
stores and garage sales for a dollar apiece, Large scented candles (better
than nothing) at closeout sales and garage sales for 30 and 50 cents, and just
about anything we could scrounge that might come in handy if the lights went
out. It did not take us long to build up enough supplies to last two weeks
in an emergency. We had enough gasoline to drive to work for two weeks (if
needed), enough food for our family plus a little extra, and candles, radios,
batteries and other odds and ends to get by.
I had also along the way added
to my ammunition stocks for my Winchester .30-30, and my bolt-action .22 LR.
After we reached the point where we felt we had enough for a two-week catastrophe,
we began to focus on the six-month time frame. This opened up many entirely
new possibilities. since the food required for this amount of time was such
a major expense, we had to make sure that it would last for several years.
This raised the issue of long-term storage in buckets, mylar bags and oxygen-absorbers.
We had to save for months to buy an order of oxygen-absorbers and mylar bags
on e-bay! We found low-cost buckets and began to fill them with rice, feed
corn, corn meal, noodles, beans etc. Anything that was inexpensive. We taught
the children to like corn-meal mush and grits since they might get quite a
bit of it one day!
Gradually we worked our way up to 30 buckets. At this point I made a strategic
decision. I decided that we needed to invest our extra funds in gardening.
Not entirely stopping the food storage, but reducing it in favor of procuring
means and experience in growing and canning our own food. We began to buy canning
jars and lids to put away in the attic for the future. My father gave us a
tiller with a blown engine which we were able to get fixed, and we began to
garden. The first garden was not very well thought-out. Some things grew, some
did not. But we learned. We learned first-hand what pollination means and about
soil fertility. We learned about bugs and blight. We gained valuable experience.
We also invested in chickens, and watched some of them die, some of them be
eaten by neighbor's dogs, some get eaten by our dogs, and the hardy survivors
begin to lay eggs. We watched them eat their own eggs and learned to give them
calcium. We let half of them free range and half range in portable pens that
we built which have an open floor that we could move each day to fresh grass.
We learned how to make them roost and lay where they were supposed to.
We bought some rabbits and learned a lot, real fast! We experimented with many
types of portable cages for rabbits which would allow us to move them from
one grassy spot to another without giving them time to dig a burrow. Sometimes
we would wake up and find rabbit carcases torn to shreds, because a neighborhood
cat had gotten to them. My kids handled most of this, and they learned things
the hard way.
If you haven't figured it out yet, We were totally green. I spent my life traveling
and overseeing the translation of Christian literature into foreign languages.
My wife is a musician. We had zero experience at any of this, and no one around
that we knew to advise us. We had to learn everything from scratch. We bought
a goat and promptly saw it attacked and killed by a stray dog. That hurt,
financially as well as emotionally. After sending the dog to join the
goat "on the other side", I bought another goat. and then another.
These have survived. We have learned to care for them.
Gradually I am seeing my children grow confident in their relationship to the
animals under their care. Gradually we are learning the needs of these animals
and how to make them produce for us. If we had had some kind of hands-on training,
it would have saved the lives of a lot of animals, but we didn't. I am happy
to announce a much higher survival rate for animals that we bring home now.
I felt like I needed a greater firearms capability (what man doesn't?). I thought
long and hard. At first I bought a Mosin-Nagant since they were so cheap ($75)
and the ammo was dirt-cheap as well. I then began to consider what type of
semi-automatic I could afford. I looked at the prices of ammo which was very
critical since I would have to train my entire family to shoot. At the time
the best deal for us appeared to be the SKS rifle.
It was cheap (a good quality Yugo[slavian SKS] was less than $200), dependable,
semi-auto and the ammo was
very cheap at the time. I later added a cheap 12 gauge pump, and last but not
least,
a
17 round Bersa Thunder 9mm. After purchasing these guns I began to pick up
ammo for them when I could find it on sale. I have gradually gotten up to about
500 rounds for each of them.
I then turned my attention to our home and it's defense. While we live in the
country, we are close to our neighbors 100 yards +/-, about five miles from
a small town, about 15 miles from a large town, and about 90 miles from Atlanta
(upwind fortunately). My greatest concern is our proximity to the road. The
house is only about 65 feet from the dirt road in front of our house. A looter
or burglar/rapist could be at the door or windows before the dog barked. In
response to this my next expenditure is to be fence posts, fencing, and barbed
wire, along with a row of thorny bushes in front of the wire next to the road.
Our house is a soft target, offering no ballistic protection. My remedy/forlorn
hope is to have plenty of sand and gravel on hand, and to start checking the
thrift stores for pillow cases to buy and store. perhaps we would have time
to bag up sand bags and at least harden up certain corners or rooms of the
house. We also have several large piles of sandstone (we live on top of a mountain)
which could be placed strategically and then perhaps sand bags on top of that.
We could also cut logs and add that to the mix.
Our water supply is a [grid-powered] electric well. This is one of my biggest
worries. We have made it a priority to buy a generator at least strong enough
to run
the
well and freezers for an hour or two a day. I know that this is only a temporary
solution but is about all we can handle right now. I am very thankful for the
non-fiction writing contribution about the siphon pumps for wells such as mine,
that offered up new possibilities which I have not had time to address yet.
We also have a neighbor 1/4 mile away which has an artesian spring on his property,
though it has extremely high iron content. I have purchased two 330 gallon
plastic livestock watering tanks and several drums which I can fill at the
first sign of trouble. I can also load them on my little trailer and pull them
down to the neighbor's to fill up from his well. I just need to check on the
ramifications of the high iron content.
I am also trying to fill up as many containers as possible with gasoline. I
add Sta-Bil and plan to use/rotate it yearly (as long as the price stays low).
I would like to keep at least 250 to 500 gallons on hand at all times. I buy
old gas cans at yard sales and just found a source for cheap 55 gallon drums
with sealed lids ($3). I may start using them instead.
Our immediate plans are to build more pens and raise more chickens and goats,
maybe a pig or two. We also look forward to planting a much bigger garden this
spring and maybe use some of our hard-won experience of last year. We also
want to involve the kids in martial arts classes if we can afford it, as well
as herb-collecting hikes from the local community college field school (which
are free and fun). We want to spend more time with them in the woods and in
the garden so that they feel comfortable there and begin to think about survival
from their own perspective. We also are beginning to exploit the library for
free resources for them to study on various topics.
The future of this country looks grim. As Christians we have "read the
back of the Book" and we know Who wins. Our responsibility is to be good
stewards of the talents we have, perform our duties as husbands and wives,
mothers and fathers, and ultimately, to trust Him for that which is beyond
our vision and power.
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Letter Re: Gold and Silver Coins as an Investment »
Two Letters Re: Denominating in Time Versus Dollars
Sir:
I bought a cross cut saw on eBay and was wondering how one might sharpen
and care for it. I was directed to a USDA Forest Service web site that has
a
30 page downloadable document all about cross-cut saws, their use and care. And
it is free! Supposedly it is one of the best resources around on this particular
topic.
Kind Regards, - Jay
Jim,
The note from SF in Hawaii about the cost of barley versus the work to produce
it made me think of one of my favorite tales from Laura
Ingalls-Wilder's book, "Farmer
Boy", about the boyhood experiences of her husband Almanzo. In this
scene, Almanzo has been double-dared to ask his father for a nickel to buy
lemonade.
When he asks, his father gives him a lesson in the value of money that I have
tried hard to instill in my children:
Father looked at him a long time. Then he took out his wallet and opened
it, and slowly he took out a round, big silver half-dollar. He asked: "Almanzo,
do you know what this is?"
"Half a dollar," Almanzo answered.
"Yes. But do you know what half a dollar is?"
Almanzo didn't know it was anything but half a dollar.
"It's work, son," Father said. "That's what money is; it's hard
work. You know how to raise potatoes, Almanzo?"
"Yes," Almanzo said.
"Say you have a seed potato in the spring, what do you do with it?"
"You cut it up," Almanzo said.
"Go on, son."
"Then you harrow - first you manure the field, and plow it. Then you harrow,
and mark the ground. And plant the potatoes, and plow them, and hoe them.
You plow and hoe them twice."
"That's right son, and then?"
"Then you dig them and put them down cellar."
"Yes. Then you pick them over all winter; you throw out all the little
ones and the rotten ones. Come spring, you load them up and haul them here
to Malone,
and you sell them. And if you get a good price, son, how much do you show
for all that work? How much do you get for half a bushel of potatoes?"
"Half a dollar," Almanzo said.
"Yes," said Father. "That's what's in this half-dollar, Almanzo.
The work that raised half a bushel of potatoes is in it."
Almanzo looked at the round piece of money that Father held up. It looked small,
compared with all that work.
"You can have it, Almanzo," Father said. Almanzo could hardly believe
his ears. Father gave him the heavy half-dollar.
"It's yours," said Father. "You could buy a suckling pig with
it, if you want to. You could raise it and it would raise a litter of pigs, worth
four, five dollars apiece. Or you can trade that half-dollar for lemonade,
and drink it up. You do as you want, it's your money."
Regards, - Jason R.
« Letter Re: My First Attempt at Forming a Retreat Group |Main| Notes from JWR: »
One View on the Ultimate Vehicular Bug Out by Jerry the Generator Guy
There hasn’t been much discussion regarding what might be a well-planned
bug out. The following is an overview of our vehicular bug out plan. This overview
is offered to assist others in fleshing out their specific needs and plans.
If you are like us, then you believe that the local area is
not viable for long term personal survival. Thus we are forced to consider
quickly getting to an alternate location. I won’t present our criteria
for the destination as everyone has different needs.
We selected a locale for serious consideration and visited there. The “boots
on the ground” impression is worth far more than any data mining that
you may have done. We have also subscribed to their local paper for the last
two years. Our initial positive impression of the area has increased with time.
The local paper gives a detailed behind the scenes view of what the real issues
in the area are or are not. Taking the local paper will also allow us to blend
in faster with the locals by being talking about the latest area news. If you
don’t get good “vibes” during a on scene visit then you should
select another area.
You have successfully avoided something that for you would have been a mistake.
We have listened to the various local radio and/or television stations here
to determine which could be deemed “credible”. We judged local
emergency reporting as this would show what the actual station resources and attitudes are. Most stations, in their emergency
coverage, all seemed to simply parrot whatever was provided at the on site
command center via the press sessions. Locally, a daytime country/western station
has demonstrated careful and accurate news reporting in two major emergencies.
They were the only station to send reporters to potential areas of concern
to discover facts. An out of state radio station does better at forecasting
our local weather than the nearby stations. We have noticed, during our travels,
that most of the country/western stations seem to present a more accurate view
of the news than the bobble heads on talk radio. This accuracy is probably
a reflection of their “tell it like it is” listeners.
All of us should have thought out what event, or events, will trigger
the launch of the exit plan. We recommend careful listening to various shortwave,
local and out of state radio and television news. The news that is presented
from a different locate will occasionally surprise you with different facts
and/or opinions. Research for yourself the facts concerning any items of concern
and/or interest. Draw your personal conclusion and take appropriate action(s)
once facts are separated from propaganda.
Okay, so we now have a trigger mechanism and need a detailed plan to quickly
and efficiently get from “here” to “there”. It’s
time to start adding some detail to the draft plan. Since we know each specific
vehicle MPG [and fuel tank capacity] then possible locations along the travel
route, for fueling, can be determined. We plan to use the every two hour “Chinese
Fire Drill” approach.
Once every two hours, at previously-determined locations, all vehicles stop. All people receive a situation
update and describe any items of concern. Vehicles are topped off with fuel.
Everyone can get prepared food/drink items. Those who need a restroom stop
quickly does so. [JWR Adds: Avoid using public rest areas.
In the event os a crisis, they are likely
gathering
places for
very desperate
refugees
that
are
nearly
out of fuel!
Pick out wide shoulders on side roads, well in advance.
Assuming that you are traveling well-armed, these should offer some semblance
of security when stopping. ] Plan your fuel allocation on worst case fuel consumption
not best or even typical usage.
We
top off fuel
at the
two
hour
intervals since
we are already stopped and can get extra use of the time. If we later discover
any unexpected need to quickly travel for some distance we have already shifted “extra” fuel
into the tanks. We plan to have each vehicle carry enough fuel so that it is
able to make the entire trip without depending on any gas station being open.
This approach allows success even if any vehicle does break down. All other
vehicles can still finish the trip even if one is not quickly repairable. If
the group is close to the destination then a tow rope will be used to [hopefully
] allow all vehicles to finish the trip. The
tow rope can also be used to remove some road obstructions.
We will listen to various local radio stations along the planned route. You
can get a list of the stations, their frequencies, locations and audience focus
by entering the state name along with radio stations into Google; Example:
Montana Radio Stations. This monitoring will allow us to become aware of any
sudden need to modify our plan based on the actual local status. The monitoring
is done by high school young adults and any adult who desires to assist. Each
listener uses a set of earphones so they can focus on what is said. Any significant
items that will be submitted to the group are written immediately on a notepad.
Yes, we have a means to immediately update the group if the issue needs immediate
attention. All drivers do nothing but drive. All other activities are done
by others in the vehicle/group.
We strongly suggest that you, or several people, drive your planned exit route
several times to discover any areas that might either become a potential
problem or maybe offer an unexpected benefit. [JWR Adds: It
is important to plan and practice a secondary and tertiary route.] You may
be surprised--we were--about additional items that are noticed on more
than one trip. At one location that we had planned to use for a stop, the
overall
local
area feeling was very negative. We quickly decided to proceed further along
the
highway.
Check periodically during the year and see if the planned route has any recurring
traffic or weather related problems. What’s the speed that you plan to
travel between individual town “ X” and town “Y”? Your overall plan should use worst-case
MPG and alternate plans already prepared if the road is not in the expected condition
or weather is not as planned [hot/cold/windy/snowy ].
The travel maps that we have prepared all have some disinformation. The direction
arrows for the travel route all point to the “from” and not the “going
to” direction. In addition, the arrows stop one town short on both ends of the route.
There is an easy way to determine some of the potential traffic choke points.
Find out where the highway gates that are used to block traffic during adverse
weather are located. Carefully note these locations during your initial or
other trips. My conclusion is these are the natural traffic restriction locations.
We carry detailed topographic maps so that we can maneuver around any blockage along the route. You should have an answer ready for “highway
X is blocked ahead. What are alternate choices?”
We will be towing a trailer with one vehicle. All goods that are planned to
go with us are kept in what we call “here to there” locations.
This means when the time comes to load there is no wasted time on “where
is X?” or “do we take Y”? All
such decisions have been made in advance.
Yes, we keep a supply of knocked-down boxes on site for planned use. The loading
simply becomes everything from “here to there” goes – anything
and everything else stays. An actual loading of the boxes has shown that the
planned sequence, capacity and room is possible.
Note: You can gain a significant amount of extra “free” room by
removing the back seat in each vehicle.
Have you ever followed a trailer and seen the lights flicker as it went over
a bump? This defect is almost always caused by a poor wiring ground connection
at the hitch. The ground capability can be tested by connecting a jumper cable between the metal tongue
of the trailer and a good ground on the tow vehicle. If the lights on the trailer
suddenly get brighter or a problem vanishes then you can be certain that the
ground
path needs work. We use an 8 gauge wire for the ground connection on both vehicles.
Should your route include travel on gravel roads then be aware that the crushed
rock material may cut or even pop weak or almost worn out tires. Check the
tire ply rating and tread depth.
Be sure that they are able to stand the expected use. Could your tow vehicle
or trailer benefit from a stronger tire? You can check with a truck tire dealer
to find tires with higher weight carrying capability. How do you know if a
tire is intended for either a car or truck? Answer: Car tires are rated [marked
on the sidewall ] to carry a specified weight at a maximum inflation pressure.
Truck tires are rated to carry weight at a minimum inflation
pressure. Example: We wanted load range D radial tires for our trailer. The
local tire dealers
all
said that nothing was available (even via special order ). The truck tire dealer,
in a nearby town, simply asked did we want the load range D in a Major Brand
or the In House brand at $20 less for each?
We strongly recommend that you install radial tires on ALL vehicles. We
have also observed a 0.5 MPG mileage increase with radial tires on two different
trailers. My super wife and co-pilot says that she loves that the
trailer doesn’t sway near as
much in cross winds. In addition, when an 18-wheeler goes by the trailer isn’t
sucked toward the adjacent lane. This change took her from having a white knuckle
experience, when trucks passed, to being able to relax. We also installed shock
absorbers on the trailers. The difference in bounce of the trailer when driving
over a bump went from several up/down cycles to one. The shocks also reduced
the amount of trailer would lean during a fast turn. Any items in the trailer
benefit from a much smother ride.
When the potential needs seems to be imminent the trailer will be hitched,
lights & brakes checked, loaded & ready to travel. The planned route
and alternatives will be reviewed daily for any potential weather or other
delays. Most states offer a 1-800 number and/or web site with road condition
updates. Find those updates now, and put them on a list!
All fuel levels will be maintained at a 50% or higher level. Vehicle oil,
spark plugs and all filters will be changed. We keep this replacement stock
on site so that it is instantly available. These changes ensure that each vehicle can give us its best effort. We carry
a replacement set of all radiator hoses and belts. We have each vehicle battery
load checked semi-annually. Most locales that sell vehicle batteries provide
a free test service. We will replace any hose/belt/pump/battery/brake that
is questionable. All vehicle light bulbs are also checked . All vehicle tires
are inflated to the pressure that we want to use for best weight carrying capability.
Fuel tanks are filled to capacity, immediately before leaving, from on
site storage. All vehicles will be parked such that on “GO” each
driver can start the motor and quickly move out. Our thought is that by advance
preparation we will gain a minimum advantage of 10 minutes. At 60 MPH we will
be 10 miles distance down the road ahead of the majority.
We plan, by taking action at the trigger, to hopefully be at the travel end
point before most people are even started. The Hurricane Katrina
news coverage reinforced the fact that that early travelers were able to move
at full highway
speeds. Later departures were moving very slow.
Summary: We have tried to make plans for two different scenarios;
1.) We have several days to get ready, or 2.) The need is sudden. In either
case we have all necessary items on site for prep and pack. The planning buys
us some of the very important variable called time.
Planning also helps to eliminate the “what do we do” panic response
mode. Everyone should have or develop now, at a minimum, a
who/when/what/where plan. The plan doesn’t cost much, if any, cash to
develop. Equipment without a plan doesn’t
have any value.
Note: We do not provide discussion on specific roads to be traveled or planned
speed as this to should be one of your group discussion items. Unique roads,
weather, vehicles and group plans each offer a different series of opportunities
and challenges. We hope to see you at the “Troy Barter Faire”!
(For those of you wondering what this means, see Chapter 14 in "Patriots".)
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Two Letters Re: Alaska as a Retreat Locale
Jim,
For starters I would like to say that Jim you are dead-on with your Delta
Junction recommendation. I live near Delta. And it is some of the finest
farm land in the
world. everything grows amazing here. Some of the information in the previous
letters is wrong and I would like to clarify them . The growing season may
be a little shorter in days of light, but in total hours of light it is much
longer than other places. It gets light here in May and gets dark at night
again in late August. Some vegetables will grow great, some don't do so well,
Corn doesn't like it, but potatoes grow without trying. And as for isolation,
that's the idea. Things are harder to get, but you learn to live with less
and enjoy it more. As for power, at least in the Delta area you do not need
to worry about that in the winter, solar is awesome here in the summer, but
in winter the wind is ever present. I have four wind generators that I built
from old car alternators and Fan blades. I never had a loss in the battery
bank.
I live off of their grid anyway, so I am used to adapting.
As for the wood
situation, certain types of trees do incredibly well here, And they grow faster
not slower, I have trees that I know weren't there ten years ago and are over
twelve feet tall, Spruces grow well here, and birch is my main heat, I have
a fair sized house, and a new, catalyst stove and burn 5-to-7 cords of wood
per
winter.
Fuel is more expensive here, but it fluctuates like anywhere else,
buy when the price is low, and stockpile it. In this area it is common for
people to have a couple of 1,000 gallon tanks buried in their yard, Moose and
caribou ar always around as a meat source, as with buffalo in this area. (Yes
we have buffalo in Alaska). Along with Many other species of flora and fauna.
On the other hand Alaska is not a place for those who can not take care of
themselves. In this area it is not uncommon to see the temps dip below -60,F.
I have seen -72. It is dark all winter, And the stores never have what you
want.
There is plenty of water though, my well is thirty feet deep, and the pump
is set down to twenty feet, My suggestion for people who are thinking about
moving to Alaska is simple, Unless you have lived a subsistence lifestyle for
a while, are used to constant extreme weather changes, and can do it on your
own, stay where you are, or find some place else. As for me, I will never go
outside [Alaska] again, you can keep it. - Z. in Alaska
Mr. Rawles
I too am a long time reader and this is also the first time I have written.
I urge all of your readers to take head to Mr. Galt's letter concerning Alaska
as a retreat locale. It is harsh up here. I live in Delta Junction area and
love it. We have been here for over 10 years now and have our place set up
pretty well. We live off grid and in the bush, hunt, fish, trap, mush dogs
etc. etc. I wouldn't encourage anyone to try to move here and set up a retreat
this late in the game. We just went through a couple weeks of -50 to -60(Tok
recorded -78) temperatures then 70 m.p.h. hour winds that blew down many
trees and damaged a lot of structures. These things are a regular occurrence.
A lot
of Russian immigrants have moved from the lower 48 into the Delta area. Most
of the ones I have met seem to be good people but most live off welfare.
When the welfare stops we'll have problems. The bad bunch of them are thieves
already not just the Russian but Americans also. The Russian community has
a bad reputation for it though. Anyone planning to move here and find a job
might be in for a rude awakening.
The local jobs don't pay enough to live on the grid and the government jobs
stay filled mostly. Delta is profiting from a small military bubble economy
brought
about
by the Ground-Based Midcourse Defense
(GMD) program but with you know in office now all that could come to a
screeching halt at anytime. Because of the GMD program everyone around here
thinks their land has gold on it and prices it
accordingly.
Yes, Delta does have a big farming community. Most of the farmers get buy
living off of government programs and are deeply in debt. The ones that don't
live
off the program hurt. Most farms lay dormant wile collecting CRP checks.
I have heard that there will be no more new CRP contracts in the future. The
fertility of the farm land has gone way down too because of the climate here.
The cold doesn't allow much time for plant matter to decompose plus it's hard
to have crop rotation with only Barley. (Barley, hay grasses, potatoes, and
carrots are the main crops grown here.) For the last three years we have had
a frost in the middle
of August that pretty much killed any vegetables that were not in a green house.
Wells in Delta are any where from 40 to 450 feet in depth. If you buy land
where there is bed rock you may drill 450 deep and still get mastodon pee to
drink. Wells are at $50 a foot this year. Better plan on how to get water out
of the well when the power goes down. Currently heating oil is 2.23 at the
pump in town, more if its delivered. Diesel is currently $3.69. It hit $5 last
winter. Fire wood from Delta Lumber is $180 per cord until they run out for
the winter other sources are up to $250. The people from Delta lumber are great
people and will work themselves silly trying make sure no one goes cold. I
have seen one add for firewood for $300 per cord. Dry firewood is a must because
-50 the soot form green wood builds in the chimney thus creating chimney fire.
A friend of mine got burned out at -50 for that very reason. They didn't get
in enough dry wood for the winter. Luckily they were able to run to separate
garage and no one suffered any cold injuries. Finding a place to cut fire wood
now is getting hard to find.
Most people here are enjoying high power bills now since Golden Valley increased
their rates. The average size house power bill is running $300- $400 [per month]
in the winter maybe less if your really frugal. You have to keep your vehicles
plugged in. In a diesel that is like running a 1,500 watt electric heater.
Wind power is a possibility if your turbine can withstand the wind. Closer
to the mountains it has been 100 mph. The wind here isn't steady it is really
gusty, not good for turbine. Rent is running around a $1,000 and up for a three
bedroom home. Certified sewers are from $6,000 to $16,000 depending. Cost to
build is running around the $150 per square foot range and going up.
If you don't know how Seasonal Affect Disorder (SAD) will affect you, then
you's better find out before you try to make a permanent move here. Cabin fever
has been the demise of many people who move here and plan to live the wilderness
experience. The only cure for it is to be outside. It don't matter what the
the temp is you got to get out side when it's light. SAD has be the cause for
suicide, alcoholism, and drugs. People do the latter two to cope. I personally
have never had it. I have too much work to do. People who don't procrastinate
and get all there chores done and food stores in order for the winter and plan
to stay in the cabin for the winter suffer the worse. We don't procrastinate
but we don't stay in either. The cabin is only a place to warm up, eat and
sleep. Living is done outside the cabin. We trap, mush dogs, care for the horses,
cut more fire wood when it's not too cold, fire up the blacksmith forge, build
some log furniture. It is easy to get lazy and lethargic during the winter.
You have to fight the urge daily. We had a couple move in not to far from us.
I told the lady to make sure she kept the windows uncovered in the winter.
Well, they were the lazy type and didn't ever have enough wood cut so they
covered the windows and blocked out some of the cold but mostly the light.
They made
it though one winter but the next one they didn't. They pulled up [stakes]
and left middle of the winter.
As much as I love living here, if I were looking for a retreat locale this
late in the game then it would be some place more hospitable. We did move here
for the
lack of people and when things get even worse I expect people to start migrating
out of Alaska especially the interior. It requires a lot of hard work to live
here more especially so if your living off the land. How would you like to
cut 20 cords of wood with a hand operated saw and axe when you run out of gas
and or you saw goes down? Running chain saws in the sub-zero weather is hard
on them. Better get extra clutches for them. What about when the mosquitoes
bloom and you have run out of bug dope?
Hunting is decent here. The Russian community poaches a lot of the moose in
the Delta management area. They do it to eat. I am not knocking them for that.
When the SHTF it
will be even worse therefore even we will have to start going further into
the bush to hunt using sled teams to get there. If you plan to
have dogs and sled they require a lot of food. [Here they eat mostly] fish.
The salmon that makes it this far inland is [best -suited for] dog food. It
is pretty beat up by the
time
is gets
here.
The flesh is a faint pink to gray color as they are close to the end of the
life span. Anyone planning to come to Alaska to survive the upheaval better
have there you know what together or they won't make it. This land is unforgiving
and the least mistakes get big in a hurry. Sorry that my letter has gotten
so long but I want people to know what they are getting into if they come here
thinking
it's paradise. It ain't. but it's the life we love. People here are willing
to help if you are not stupid. Our favorite saying around here is "If
you gonna be dumb then you'd better be tough" - C.B.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: The Ozarks as a Retreat Locale »
Letter Re: Alaska as a Retreat Locale
Mr. Rawles,
Although being an avid reader, this is the first time I have written your site.
The letters posted on your site today respecting Alaska as a retreat locale
raised a few possible issues in my mind. First of all, let me say that Alaska
is my favorite place in the world, and I wouldn't have it any other way.
However, as a retreat locale, one may want to think twice unless the situation
forces their location there. Also, it is important to remember that the conditions
and terrain in Alaska are very wide ranging, depending where you are. The
climate can range from arctic in the north to relatively mild in the south.
I have heard the climate in the south compared to that of the mid-Atlantic
states on the East coast.
Most parts of the state are totally without agriculture, but there is some
in the Matanuska-Susitna
Valley. The growing season is usually around 100 days
long, and can produce huge vegetables because of the length of the days. Some
vegetables do well there, such as potatoes, carrots and cabbage.
Therefore, if one intends to do any kind of farming in Alaska, the "Mat-Su"
Valley is where it is possible. However, there is a major drawback to this
fact,
from
the perspective of retreat logistics. The Mat-Su valley is one of the most
densely populated areas of the state. It has, as of late, been converting
to suburban communities for workers who commute to Anchorage. As we all
know,
the suburbs are a bad, bad place to be WTSHTF.
And even if one were to build a retreat in a section of the valley not yet
suburban, there is no way to
know that it would remain so for the next five years or more.
Prepping before the SHTF is
made more difficult by the state's isolation. Building materials, fuel,
food, guns, ammo, medical supplies and any other product must be shipped in
from the [continental] US or elsewhere.
This makes these
products not only
more expensive, but generally less available, especially outside of the urban
centers. Ordering off the web makes them easier to get, but the shipping
is still expensive. Fuel of any kind is the most expensive in the nation,
and
ammo is pretty over-priced, too.
Fuel, as one letter pointed out, is a major problem. Getting by without fossil
fuels is a main goal of most preppers, and it may prove more difficult in
Alaska. Solar is out, at least during the winter. Not only is there very
little light,
but it is less intense than elsewhere, due to the oblique angle at which
it hits the state (as it is so far north). I don't know a lot about wind,
so that
may be a possibility. If it was, any parts would be difficult to get. As
K.L.'s letter says, firewood is a possibility, but this raises three issues.
As he says, with no gas or diesel = no power tools to cut [and haul firewood].
Any broken hand tools would be irreplaceable, and even having extras is likely
not enough
when you plan to cut by hand and burn firewood for a very extended period
of time.
Hand cutting firewood is also time consuming.
Since it would need to be done in the summer, it would take up time for farming
and other chores. This might not be a problem if you are part of a large
retreat group, however. Also, felling trees, in any way, especially by hand,
is extremely
dangerous. I would strongly recommend a logger certification class for anyone
planning to possibly use firewood as a retreat fuel. Although the course
will focus on mechanical forestry, the safety principles are the same universally.
Third, unless one has a retreat on a very spacious lot, it is possible to
run out of firewood to cut. Trees grow much slower in Alaska People who
do not heat
their homes in this manner would be surprised at the amount of fuel a wood
stove can use in a winter. For instance, to heat the house on my family farm,
it
takes roughly 10 to 15 cords to get through the winter,
with a little to spare for safety's sake. And that is back in New York, not
Alaska. Imagine cutting
that much
firewood on a 25 acre lot for five years or more. One may be able to cut
off of their property, but that is a bad way to meet the neighbors, especially
after
TSHTF.
This letter ran much longer than I planned, and I would like to go on further,
but time prevents me from doing so. In short, think twice about a retreat
in Alaska. It is absolutely possible, but would present much greater difficulties
than other feasible places. In the lower 48, one can find the same type of
isolated area, but with:
Better farming conditions
Lower prices in general
A climate not requiring huge amounts of fuel for the winter
Ability to travel through the US without crossing international borders
(If they still exist after TSHTF)
And so forth...
If you think you can do it, then go for it. My wife thinks I'm trying to keep
it all for myself. - J. Galt
JWR Replies: Thanks for that input. I have my doubts about
the viability of the Mat-Su Valley in worst-case collapse. Its proximity to
the hungry, teeming
masses of Anchorage is troubling. Alaska cannot feed its population, even
in today's economy, and one can only wonder what it would be like grid-down,
with no
fuel available.
I encourage anyone serious about living in Alaska to look
at the
Delta Junction area, in Alaska's interior. I haven't been there since
the summer of 1980 (when I attended the U.S. Army Northern
Warfare School), but it struck me as a very productive agricultural
region.)
« Two Letters Re: Alaska as a Retreat Locale |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Bloom Where You're Planted, by Gertrude
I write this to encourage everyone to begin preparing right now, whatever your
financial situation and physical location in life. We are one of the many
families that don’t live in a sparsely populated western state and
don’t
have a retreat that is fully stocked, off-grid and off-the beaten path. But
we are very aware of the precarious situation that our country is in and we are trying as best we can to be prepared. Doing a little
bit consistently every day will add up very quickly and you will be better
prepared every day as you go along. Doing this will also do wonders for your
mental outlook.
To give a little background: our household consists of my mother and myself,
along with four cats, three dogs and a flock of chickens. My mother is 79 years
old and I’m a retired 57-year old woman. My sister and brother-in-law live about a half-mile
away and our niece and her husband live next door. Both of my parents grew
up on farms and we always had a big garden and plenty of fruit trees when I
was a child. We live in a semi-rural area about three miles from a small town.
There are no interstate highways nearby.
The people here in our community are pretty self-reliant. People still hunt,
fish, and grow and preserve their own vegetables and fruits (although not as
much as in the past). We have about five acres of land with a small fruit orchard
and garden area. We don’t have any mortgages or car payments to worry
about, but we also don’t have the financial resources to retreat to another location. Are we fully prepared? Of course not. I don’t
think anyone is ever fully prepared, but we are much better prepared than we
were last year and we were better prepared last year than we were the year
before
that. This is because of consistently doing something every day to prepare.
As I sit here typing this, our supper is cooking on the wood stove while my
mother is in the living room quilting and our alarm systems--our three dogs--are
outside keeping an eye on things. The coffee pot is ready to go on the stove
for supper later. The chickens are happily occupied in their area. Our pantry
is stocked with wheat, rice, beans, store-canned goods as well as home-canned
vegetables, fruits, and meats and various other food and non-food items. We
have another separate storage area for paper products, medical supplies, batteries,
cleaning supplies, etc.
We didn’t have the wood stove, chickens or bigger-than-average pantry
storage a few years ago. Back then I would have said we were above-average
in “preparation mentality” but my eyes were opened when I began
doing research on the subject of preparedness. It began when I wanted to be
prepared
to
survive a possible flu pandemic. I quickly learned of other things, such as the possibility of EMP strikes,
electric grid
going down in general, Peak
Oil problems, you name it. My first reaction was
one
of panic, but that subsided as my mother and I began “putting feet on our
prayers.” We started small, buying more food each week when grocery shopping.
Then we decided to go “whole hog.”
The first thing we did was buy a wood stove. We now have three heating systems:
[a heating] oil furnace, gas logs operated on propane and the wood stove. We
use the wood stove most of the time in the winter now. Although it’s
not a [broad-top] cook stove, we do very well cooking meals on it. We perk
the coffee for supper most nights even if we don’t cook the main meal
on it. We have lots of wood on our land, but aren’t physically able to
cut the wood ourselves so we buy it locally, and my brother-in-law has supplied
us with wood (my sister and he have a wood stove too). We have three able-bodied
men in the family (brother-in-law, nephew-in-law and nephew) who can and will cut wood if need be.
The next thing we did was install a manual well pump. We’re on well water
but we needed a way to get the water if the grid goes down. I began researching
manual
well pumps and my brother-in-law installed one for us. Last summer, we
worked on what has probably been the biggest project of them all: building
a chicken house and fenced-in chicken yard. Our chickens are what I suppose
you’d call semi-free range. They have a 24x24 foot yard to roam in. My
mother was the chief architect. She designed the chicken house herself. We
first had to clear the land, then we prepared the foundation for the house.
After that came the actual building of the chicken house.
Although we have a pick-up truck, my nephew was using it at the time, so I
would go to the local Big Box building center and buy as much wood as I could
fit into the car and bring it back. We’re proof that you can pretty much
do what you set your mind to do if you’re determined enough. We worked
steadily every day except Sundays at building the chicken house and got it
done. Then we had to clear the land for the chicken yard, and after doing that
we began digging the holes for the fence posts. The only thing we had any outside
help with was installing the poultry wire for the fence. We needed my niece
and her husband to help us get that pulled tight enough. We finished the entire
operation by putting netting over the entire chicken yard to keep out hawks.
We now have a great flock of chickens. As I write this, we have about eight
dozen eggs in the refrigerator. We share [the eggs] with my sister and husband,
my
niece and her husband and my nephew and his wife. The dogs also get a scrambled
egg dinner about once a week. We haven’t bartered any eggs yet, but we
know that’s a possibility down the road if economic conditions warrant
it.
Somewhere in the midst of all this preparation, we bought a Country
Living grain mill (the manual kind). Mother has done most of the grinding
so far. She’s baked whole-wheat rolls and loaves of bread with the wheat
we bought and ground ourselves – yummy!
Our garden suffered last summer, because we were so busy getting the chicken
flock project set up. Our goal for this summer is to have as big a garden as
we can manage. We do have a stock of garden seed laid back. We’ve already
stocked up on lots of canning jar lids. We already had a good supply of canning
jars and rings but I plan on stocking up on those, as well.
One of the big things we need to do next is prepare in the area of self-defense.
We have a rifle and recently bought a S&W 9mm handgun. We also have my
late father’s 38 Special revolver. We have magazines and ammo and plan
on stocking more ammo. My brother-in-law (a former Marine) is going to train
me on the handguns and rifle. If there is one thing I regret in life it is that I didn’t take advantage of the fact that my
late father, who was a police officer, wanted to train me in the use of firearms,
but I was a wimp. I’ve always believed in the right to bear arms, but
was actually a little afraid of using guns, mainly because I’m so nearsighted.
But I’ve gotten over that now. After one very short session with my brother-in-law
going over firearm basics with me, I’m excited about getting proficient
in their use because I can actually understand how the darn things work now!
I believe we’re doing pretty good at blooming where we’re planted.
We can garden, sew, quilt, cook (don’t laugh – a lot of people
don’t
know how to do that!), crochet, can and preserve food, and we’ve don
pretty well at carpentry. In addition to my retirement pension, I also have
a second
stream of income doing manuscript typing at home.
To summarize, I encourage anyone who feels paralyzed by current events to
get up and get going. Start small: buy a few extra groceries each time you
shop; stock up on non-perishables; prepare a first aid kit; and take a first
aid course. Pay attention to what’s going on around you. And, most importantly
of all, never stop learning. Before you know it, you’ll be a lot more prepared than you ever knew you could be. - Gertrude
« Three Letters Re: The Community Retreat |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Preparedness Through Tapping in to the Craig's List Culture: Doing Well by Doing Good, by D.S.
I do not consider myself an expert on Craigslist.org.
However, I do cruise our local Craigslist several times a day as I am fascinated
with
what people are buying, looking for and selling. It helps me keep a pulse
on our local economy that I don't get through the Mainstream Media.
To that point, I have noticed a strong uptick, since the New Year, of people
selling anything of value that they can. This tells me people are really starting
to hurt from this incipient Economic Depression.
On items I have an interest in I call or e-mail to enquire. Lately, the conversation
has veered towards why folks are selling stuff. "I am getting rid of my
'stuff' as I don't know what the economy is going to do." "My husband
lost his job." "I have a small business but my clients are not paying
me what they owe me."
What has also started happening, at least from my perspective, is more and
more folks want to barter goods than simply accept cash. 120 bales of horse
hay sounds better to them than $1,200. Firewood has become huge as
a barter item as has quality hay and, of course, firearms. Quality reliable
cars for
less than $2,000 are very desirable. Items like Sterling silver tea sets and
Grandma's china are falling fast.
I am not sure when I began doing this, but in the past few months I started
offering folks alternatives to fiat money. 'Would you prefer payment in firewood,
Sir, or some other item, or is cash what you are looking for?' I had no set
protocol, I made it up as I went along, but pretty soon I started crystallizing
some thoughts on bartering on Craigslist. Here they are:
1. Say what you can do and do what you say.
2. "No, thank you." is a great response. Never be afraid to say "No" if
the deal does not work for you.
3. Craigslist is not a community in the sense that one seller does not (often)
hear directly from another on your reputation. But still, people can tell if
you are honest or are looking to skin them. Act Honorably always.
4. Get clear on what your natural assets are that you have to trade. One of
mine is firewood.
5. Timing can be everything - scan Craigslist frequently in your desired
categories since you want to be (to use an old Army Cav expression) 'the firstest
with the mostest!'
6. When I see a particularly nice item in the 'free' category I often inquire
if I might make a small charitable contribution to the charity of their choice
as appreciation of their item. I do this for one primary reason - it is the
right thing to do. It has had the ancillary benefit of having 'jumped me to
the front of the line' on some items. I offered my desire to donate to a Craigslister
for three free garage doors. He responded quickly that I was the only person
to do so, and that it touched his heart. He even delivered the doors to our
ranch (I can no longer drive as a Disabled Vet). I subsequently donated to
the local food-bank.
7. Always say please and thank you. Honest and sincere appreciation is a scarce
commodity today.
8. Never begrudge folks an honest profit. If someone makes great money from
an item you swapped or sold - congratulate them!
9. I use Ronald Reagan's motto: 'Trust, but verify.' I start off assuming I
can trust folks. But I always verify that what they are telling me is so.
10. Have fun! As long as you are helping others get what they want, you'll
likely always get what you want. That is satisfying from a
servant's heart perspective, and you meet a lot of nice people (not all though) while you are
building up your supplies and stores for your retreat.
The following are not a 'bragging' example. I hope you will simply see
these as examples of what is possible:
Four weeks ago I found a Mercedes 300TD wagon for sale ($3,000) or trade. I
enquired to see if it was still available, and to my happy surprise, it still
was. The young man (a survivalist) was moving to Belize with his wife and young
son and needed 'camping gear.' I asked what he really wanted and his reply
was 'a really good tent to live in while we build our house, and some nice
backpacks.' I have been a Boy Scout Leader for 20+ years and have way too
much camping gear. I offered him a Golite backpack (acquired from Craigslist
for
$40 - originally retailed at $190) and a [US Army surplus] GP Medium
Tent (like the tents one would see in the old television series MASH)
I paid nothing for the tent as I had bartered, through Craigslist, for two
of these GP medium tents for allowing a fellow to come hunt Elk on our property.
Very nice man, very generous, two amazing high quality canvas tents with all
the poles. As an aside, he never came to hunt though I wish he had.
As I type this, I am waiting for a fellow (a Senior NCO recently
returned from Iraq) to come over for three cords of firewood. He is giving
us two barely-used
Australian saddles and two snowmobiles. The snowmobiles may need a good cleaning
and rebuild, but I have 30 acres of dense woods that need to be cut back for
fire safety - I suspect I can find someone to help rebuild the snowmobiles
in trade for firewood.
Bear in mind, please, that I don't actually do the cutting of the firewood.
My left arm is pretty weak from nerve damage and holding a chain-saw really
hurts. So, again, I barter. If folks need wood I ask that they cut and split
a cord for me and they, may then, cut a cord for themselves. Sadly, I used
to offer firewood to folks if they'd come help me put some up. After they got
their firewood I never saw them again. So, now, I get 'paid' up front.
I may be close to closing a deal, today, for a beautiful Savage shotgun that
looks like a Browning A5. My cost? Giving the owner permission to come hunt
on our property for Elk. We both get something we really want and would be
tickled that the other loves what they get!
Reloading equipment 'grab bag' I had a gentleman over this past week looking
at antiques I had in our basement that had simply been gathering dust. He
mentioned, that right before he came over he had picked up a box of RCBS
dies (new in
the box) and three reloading presses. I swapped an antique table of my grandmother's
for the box of reloading gear. . After going through it I'll have several
dies I won't use (.243 Winchester, 7mm Mauser, etc.) that I can trade for
items
I do want (clean brass, Nosler or Barnes bullets, etc). I met the man by
looking through
Craigslist
collectibles to see who was selling items similar to what I had to sell.
Final example: A small herd of registered purebred Longhorn Cattle. A lady
listed four Longhorns for $1,300 on Craigslist. She was willing, according
to her listing, to barter for items other than cash. After talking with her
on
the phone I offered her any combination of hay, firewood, firearms,etc. The
two cows are bred and expected to calve this spring around May. So, with
items I have accumulated from others by bartering, and maybe $300 in cash,
God willing, I will own six purebred Longhorns.
I have helped others heat their house, hunt for meat for their family, feed
their livestock hay, and house their family while they build their home.
That is pretty cool! The satisfaction I receive from helping those folks
is immense.
Here is a tally of what I have received (or am about to) :
4 registered Longhorns (two due to calve)
An 1987 Mercedes 300 TD wagon
2 snowmobiles
A beautiful Savage shotgun
Reloading equipment
2 Australian saddles
Bartering is a very valuable skill to learn for a grid-down world. It is far
better to learn it now when the stakes are not nearly as high. Be
willing to make
mistakes and have fun. And please, if there are bartering skills that you
think should be mentioned to supplement those
that have already been discussed in SurvivalBlog, please e-mail them
to Jim.
Go out and barter now, and do well by doing good! - D.S.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Three Letters Re: The Community Retreat »
Letter Re: Alaska as a Retreat Locale
I have read your list of recommended
retreat areas and agree for the most
part. My wife and child and I are leaving Texas in March and heading north.
Idaho
and
Alaska
are the only places we are considering because they are the only two western
states that have 100% parental autonomy on homeschooling.
As for Alaska not being recommended, I would have to disagree somewhat. Yes,
it is not for everybody. Some people don't like cold
and that's fine by me. However, the issues of supplies and resource shipment
I think may become
moot. When TSHTF the
shipment of goods will be disrupted everywhere, and in the lower 48 there will
be more people fighting for what is left. For those
of us looking to get off the Made-in-China Wal-Mart matrix, these are changes
we are preparing for and will welcome.
In Alaska there will be an advantage not found anywhere else. First, it's cold
climate and geographic separation from the lower 48 will keep it very well
protected against the roving bands of thugs and immigrants already overpopulating
the lower 48. People simply won't be able to get there, and borders will likely
close to all such traffic. Second, Alaska has a long and well-ingrained tradition
of self-sufficiency and the character of the people there will be more immune
to the shock of having to get back to basics. Additionally it is the most likely
candidate to be the first state to secede. The crime rate statistics are misleading
as well, due to the low population and the fact many "crimes" are
not crimes at all, or they represent alcohol-related petty crimes, eskimo tribal
feuds, bar brawls, etc. All in all, I believe the spirit of Alaska will prevail
and people will get along better than the lower 48 on many levels, regardless
of whether or not there is a Wal-Mart. On another note, [Governor]
Sarah Palin has also proposed the
creation of a new natural gas line just for the state residents. - Brad in
Texas
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Letter Re: Lessons from the January Ice Storm
Jim:
The Ice Storm that just plastered Kentucky brought some reminders of just how
bad things can get and how being prepared - in advance - is critical. Within
a few hours, everything became coated with a half-inch to an inch of ice:
roads, cars, trees, power lines - everything. Throughout the night, we heard
crashes as our neighbor's trees lost massive limbs. We knew it was only a
matter of time before trees limbs (which are not properly trimmed back by
our utility company in an attempt to cut costs) collapsed on power lines
and caused widespread outages. In the morning, everything had turned to crystal.
About a quarter million people were without power in our county, but almost
everyone in the western half of the state had lost power.
Our county actually did a good job of plowing and salting roads. Unfortunately,
it didn't help as hundreds of traffic lights weren't working. Traffic was snarled
badly and travel times easily doubled. Hundreds of businesses are closed and
loosing money every day the power stays off. Looking for a generator at the
local big box home and garden center? Forget it, quickly sold out. Ice scrapers,
gone. Gas cans, gone. Driveway salt, gone. Snow shovels, gone. The sales guy
told me they weren't going to get restocked for the rest of the season.
My daughter called from the university she attends about a four hour drive
to the West. Their whole city was without power and water. The university asked
students
to leave, if possible, and those who couldn't were sheltered in the campus
auditorium. They didn't have any cots so you had to sleep on the floor or in
the auditorium chairs. She wanted me to come pick her up, so as I headed out
the next morning on a full tank of gas, my plan was to stop at each significant
town on the way to check their power and gas pumping status. Each stop was
the same as the next - dead. As I neared the half-way point on my gas gauge,
not one city on the way had electricity. It's as if a nuclear ice bomb had
been dropped on the state. I turned back.
It's amazing when you fully realize how dependent our society has become on
electricity. We are being told it will take up to 7 days to completely restore
service in our county, which is completely urban. Out in the rural areas, they
say it will be two weeks or more. Temperatures have been dropping into the
teens at night. Lots of people I know have no alternatives to heat their homes
or cook food. Fireplaces, like mine, are electrically controlled gas logs.
I can't even light it manually. I've learned a lesson: get
what you need before you need it. Get extra. I will be buying a dependable
generator once this crisis
passes. My next home will be better equipped with alternative sources of heat
and power. - J.S.
JWR Replies: Events like the recent ice storm underscore
the need to be self -sufficient: Think things through, and prepare systematically:
Wood or coal fired
stoves with a horizontal cook top. Kerosene lamps and plenty of fuel, a backup
power
generator,
again
with
plenty
of fuel. Extra stored fuel for your vehicle (which would have allowed you to
make that 8 hour round-trip). Often overlooked in winter is the need for a
backup water supply, and water filtration,
even
if it mean
melting
buckets
of snow--which
is
agonizingly
slow and laborious.
« Handcuffed and Stuffed in a Car Trunk -- My Review of OnPoint Tactical's Urban Escape and Evasion Class, by Mr. Lima |Main| The Big Roller Coaster is Picking Up Speed »
Letter Re: Some Observations on Finland from a Finnish SurvivalBlog Reader
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I'm a long-time lurker of SurvivalBlog, but thought I'd pass on some links
of interest. For the record, I've read your novel ["Patriots"],
and I am coming from a "Peaknik" viewpoint.
But still have my original copy of "Life After Doomsday".
Currently I'm living in Finland, which has its pros and cons. "Russian
bombers over your home" is not a theoretical concept to Finns and they
don't grow enough food for themselves [for a self-sufficient economy.]. A Nordic
socialist government with high taxes and cost of living might not be of interest
to many SurvivalBlog readers, but at least I see where my money goes and feel
safer for my family should something happen to me. We won't talk about gun
control and no legal right to self-defense. However, the country is the third most heavily armed
civilian population in the world. Excluding the two school shootings the lack
of most violent crime I would attest to the social welfare system in the country
helping even out the worst of the differences. Study the causes of the nasty
Finnish Civil War of 1918 with how united the country was in WWII and you can
see why some of the social welfare system was instituted.
There's a large
number of illegal guns in the country, 50,000--500,000. These aren't just your old
hunting rifle, but include Maxim machine guns sealed behind a wall and mortar tubes in the basement. See the
Wikipedia page on weapons caches. (A stay-behind plan in case of Russian
occupation of the country. Note the explanation of why Finnish communists went from planning revolution to entering Parliament).
The Finnish government has spent a lot of time and effort towards building
resiliency into the country, fearing a repeat of WWII when they ended up fighting
both the Soviets and the Nazis. Since then they put a lot of effort
into building up food stocks and ensuring the country can survive on its own.
Bomb shelters are still part of the standard building code, though it's been
relaxed from buildings of 600m2 [floor] surface area to 1000m2, and the air-raid
sirens are still tested regularly. Military conscription is still practiced
here and overall widely supported by people as well as a strong reserve system. However recruits
these days are more likely to be out of shape and more attuned to working with
computers than the farm-bred youth of WWII.
Many Finns have their own cottages as they move from the farm didn't occur
that long ago. With the many lakes for water, cottages for shelter, wood for
fuel and more nature-orientation of the Finns I think they'd do fine overall
as a society in a TEOTWAWKI situation
presuming the government food supplies get the population through the first
winter. I was reading the government estimate
in a Finland-stands-alone situation is that they can feed everyone in Finland
with at least 2,800 calories per day, though you might be suicidal from the
blandness of the diet. (See the NESA web site). This is a bilingual country
with Finnish and Swedish, but they still translate many things into English).
Unfortunately, I don't know how much they took into account cuts in the fuel
supply for tractors, fertilizers and transportation. The winters can be harsh
and we're noticing climate change here leading to "black winters" that
are worse than "real" winters. The snow
and frost helps kill off bugs in the soil, provide extra insulation for buildings,
and reflects light so it's not so dark. Unfortunately, that's all disappearing.
Winds blow to the east for about nine months of the year. Unfortunately, Chernobyl
melted down during one of the [Spring] months [when] the winds blow from the
east and so nuclear fallout is also a concept that's been just theoretical
so far.
There's
some
mushrooms here you no longer want to eat. The Sosnovy Bor reactor that powers
St. Petersburg is the same model as Chernobyl and is far closer to the Finnish
border than one would like.
[Some topics previously discussed in SurvivalBlog snipped, for brevity.]
Lest we forget non-TEOTWAWKI scenarios, here's
a reminder of the world of US WWII rationing. I like the
various kids' books about disaster being published by various agencies. "Color your way through disaster!" could be their
motto. Still, it's a beginning.
May I also suggest some readers might be interested in the late John Seymour's
post-collapse novel "Retrieved from the Future". Seymour
is famous as a father of the back-to-the-land movement in Britain, publishing
two classics as "The Self-Sufficient Life and How to Live It" as
well as "Forgotten Arts and Crafts". Both are well illustrated
and have a wealth of information on how to do things as well as how things
used to be done. "Retrieved from the Future" is basically
a Peak Oil novel written twelve years ago and set in Britain. As befits a self-sufficiency
guru he pays a lot of attention to how high-energy farming fails to keep going
as oil, fertilizer and spare parts go away while also discussing the rebirth
of older forms of agricultural. The Golden
Horde makes its visit and is deflected,
but not the British Army when it comes time to requisition food for the cities
and seize the few weapons British civilians have. Basically a solid British
perspective on what would happen during a collapse.
As some readers have expressed interest in the new film "Defiance" I
might also suggest trying to get hold of a
Soviet film from 1987 called "Come
and See". Essentially a film about partisans in Byelorussia during WWII, the depiction of the village
being destroyed came to my mind several times while I was reading your book
"Patriots".
Regards, - Simo H. in Finland
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Hurricane Lessons Learned and Some Advice on Getting Prepared, by Ken on the Gulf Coast
Sometimes it is not an option to relocate so you have to get prepared wherever
you are located. I am located on the Gulf Coast 60 short miles from New Orleans,
Louisiana. We were ground zero for Hurricane Katrina, so I have a first hand
experience of what can happen I will describe some things that I did right
and some things that I did wrong.
We were unable to relocate to a place like Idaho as we had elderly parents
who could not and probably would not relocate to a more appropriate survival
area.
My mother was born in 1930 the daughter of a sharecropper in the Louisiana
delta. They lived a survivor lifestyle as a matter of everyday life. She instilled
in me a fear of having absolutely nothing. Until her
death in 2007 she refused to run a dishwasher or air conditioner. She could
not bring herself to waste electricity, water, or anything for that matter.
She would not waste anything.
Although not as dedicated to thrift as my mother, I did inherit her fear of
hunger, and vulnerability to the unexpected. She died in fear of depression
era conditions returning. When she died I lost a valuable
source of survival information.
Because of my mother's influence, the day after Hurricane Katrina, we were
one out of 75,000 or so who had lights and running water 36 hours after the
storm. The following is what most people did wrong:
A lot of people had generators, the problem was that they only had a couple
of cans of gas. So they were all without power in less than 24 hrs. All of
the gas stations were disabled. No gas means no
power!
Nobody had enough food, they recommend three days, it took almost three days
just to get the roads clear.
No guns! I had friends who did not "believe in guns" that ended
up borrowing some weapons.
No dogs! Without dogs, you have no warning of intruders. Alarm
systems don't work after the batteries are dead.
The following is what I did right:
I had a natural gas generator installed. I was up and running less than 36
hours of the storm. It was also a mistake to select natural gas as a fuel source.
Upturned trees broke gas lines all over the region, it was only blind luck
that left me with gas pressure. A propane system would have been better.
I had drilled a water well. I was able to provide water pressure to my house,
city water was out for weeks. I tied the system back to the house by a simple
water hose going from a faucet on my pump to one on the house.
I had lights and water. Here is what I did wrong:
I evacuated the elderly mothers and dogs to an area 100+ miles north. Electricity
was out over the entire state, my motor home generator powered my sisters house
where I left our parents and dogs. I left the dogs at my bug out location before
I returned to the disaster area.
Mistake #1:
I sent my dogs elsewhere.
The other thing I was unprepared for were refugees. I call them refugees because
they would have gone hungry without the food in my pantry and freezers. I was
totally unprepared for the 16 families looking to me for
food and direction.
Some other things I did wrong:
I did not have enough food. I fed a lot of people. In a real end of life as
we know it scenario, I would have been forced to choose who I would have to
turn away. It's one thing to take care of people when you know help is on the
way, quite another when there is no help in sight.
Weapons: I loaned my old shotguns to all the people who did not believe in
the private ownership of guns. When gangs of illegal aliens and welfare recipients'
were roaming the streets, the folks who didn't believe in guns didn't hesitate
to request assistance.
I did not have a fuel source independent of the grid.
The following are changes that I have made:
I now have a Bluebird Bus motor home. It has a huge fuel tank that I can use
to run the house if the natural gas generator quits. It’s diesel generator
can put out 12 kw for a long time.
I have a much larger store of food.
I have a photovoltaically-powered water supply.
I have a bug out vehicle that has a 1,200 to 1,500 mile range. It has a propane
refrigerator. It has a water
system that can provide water pressure to my house.
I have dogs. In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, thieves were cranking up
lawn mowers and pushing them up next to running generators after the storm.
They would then shut down the running generators and leave the running lawn
mowers while they absconded with the generators. You cannot stay awake
24 hours a day. Dogs do not miss much if anything. I can’t recommend
a breed of dog, but the following work for me: Miniature Schnauzers, Australian
shepherds, Catahoula Curs. If you live in the south and have some land you
cannot beat a Catahoula Cur. An Australian Sheppard is a close second for all
climates.
I have ten acres and good soil, I am putting in a very large garden. However,
I do not feel that I can overcome the huge welfare population we have here,
If things get out of hand, I plan to bug out. I now have an RV that has a tremendous range. It has a propane refrigerator, and full facilities.
I can literally live on the side of the road for weeks or months. It is equipped
to pull a full-size 4WD with
trailer. I have several bug out locations within four hours where I can evacuate
to. When I leave I will have dogs, food, tools,
and arms. I also have shortwave radios.
You have to develop a survival mentality,
you have to add to your preparation everyday. Each trip to Wal-Mart is an
opportunity to add to your supplies. The one thing I learned is that when the
storm hits,
its too late to think about being prepared. You have to think: if
a disaster strikes, how long can you feed and protect your family? I add
to my provisions
every day.
Start to prepare now. Think: food, food, and more food,
ammo, bandages, and unless you can
go without sleep 24 hours a day don't forget the dogs!
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Letter Re: Waste Vegetable Oil for Fuel in Diesel Engines
Sir,
I purchased a 1982 Mercedes 240D diesel. These old
diesels will all run on used cooking oil [also known as waste vegetable
(WVO)]. I have run mine for more than a year on 100% used cooking oil with
no modification
other
than
a
larger
fuel
filter. You do not have to spend hundreds of dollars for a large capacity
diesel filter. I bought a large water filter at the hardware store for
around $30.
I use the wound rope or string insert that you can buy for less than
$20 per pair. It works great for a fraction of what an auto parts store will
charge
for a diesel fuel filter. If you use
new oil from the bottle the larger filter is not necessary. If the
temperature drops below freezing you will need to mix [the WVO] with [petroleum-based]
diesel to thin it, but
otherwise
you are good to go. You can also run motor oil in them and I understand
they will also run on transmission fluid. I have not tried running 100%
motor oil but I have added several gallons at a time to a tank of diesel.
There are
millions
of them still around. Some are still in remarkable shape. The old
engines are bullet proof. You can still buy every part new for the cars. I
recommend
the
1981 to 1985 Mercedes diesel cars. I am not sure about ones older
than this. They started changing the engines and injection pumps on the newer
ones. Hope this
helps,
- Ken
JWR Replies: In cold climates, owners may need to add a fuel
tank heater. As previously discussed in SurvivalBlog, when burning WVO or WVO
blends, it is preferable
to have two fuel tanks: A small one containing
only standard #2 diesel fuel, and a main tank containing WVO or a WVO blend.
The engine is started and warmed up using the small tank, then switched to
the
main tank.
Then, a
few minutes
before shut-down, the fuel supply is switched back to the small diesel tank.
This
leaves only "dinodiesel" in the fuel lines and hence eliminates most
problems
with hard-starting.
Ready Made Resources sells a well-proven WVO
to biodiesel processing system. Properly blended B60
biodiesel containing WVO can reportedly be used even in vehicles with more
sophisticated fuel-injected
engines.
BTW, from a preparedness standpoint, the best diesel passenger cars to look
for is a older (pre-turbo) Mercedes
built on a W123 chassis, specifically
the 240D and 300D models made from 1977 to 1985. I recommend the "T" designated
"estate" station wagons, since they a have
a
lot
more cargo room
than a typical four
door sedan.
This configuration also provides room for an auxiliary fuel tank, as described.
For a utility-type diesel vehicle, I'd recommend getting a US Army surplus
a M1008
CUCV pickup.
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Letter Re: Observations on Preparedness from a Gulf Coast Hurricane Veteran
Mr. Rawles,
I just wanted to let you know how much I have enjoyed your site. I had no idea
that there were whole survivalist communities out there until I stumbled on a
link by accident. In fact, I didn’t really know that I fit into that category
myself. My wife and I live on the Gulf Coast and we discovered the hard way during
Hurricane Rita that a bag of trail mix and a bottle of water, was not preparing
to evacuate. Eighteen hours in traffic in a hundred and fifty mile traffic jam
taught us to find the roads that are not on a US map. After that we planned,
made maps of blacktop roads for evacuation, and stocked a retreat a couple of
hundred miles from the coast and cities.
Two years later here came Hurricane Ike. Since
we had our gear pretty much laid out it only took us about an hour to load
and we were gone. It was a vacation compared to the first time. After the storm
blew
threw we used some of the gas we had stashed and wanted to look at the house
and see if there was anything left to come back to. The trip was eye opening.
There were people sitting in gas lines that stretched for more than a mile
for five gallons of fuel. Some people where sitting at stations that didn’t
even have gas because they just couldn’t go any farther. There was no
food or water to be found. I thought to myself what if the trucks didn’t
come back or the electricity didn’t come back on for an extended time
frame.
People can speculate if there is going to be nuclear war, Peak Oil or the
economy is going to complete collapse. People have been saying “The
End is Near” for
a few thousand years, but this was real, we saw it, and we were in
it. We made our trip. The house was damaged but still there. We checked to
make sure everything
was secure and left back for our retreat. We stayed for about two weeks in
semi-comfortable conditions. We are not where we want to be as far as being
stocked up for an
extended time frame but we are getting there. By the time next storm season
comes we should have supplies for about two months and we are installing solar
power
to augment our generator and propane systems. That is a pretty short time for
some of your readers but considering the rest of the people I have seen, this
is living like a king. After that it’s a squirrel on a stick. -
Randall
« Letter Re: Learning Old-Fashioned Trades and Skills |Main| Letter Re: Advice on Grungy Military Surplus Magazines »
Letter Re: Bulk Diesel Fuel Antibacterial and Stabilizer
Hi
As to diesel fuel treatment, it is a investment that will involve the operation
and reliability of your backup power engines and vehicles. The fuel is expensive
so don't cheap out on the fuel treatment. You need to have a diesel fuel maintenance
program in place,
1. Treat the fuel with the proper required [stabilizing and antibacterial]
chemicals.
2. Clean and polish the fuel once a year, pump the water & sludge out of
the bottom of the tank. A clogged fuel filter is a serious problem.
A cheap cleaning rig can be home made, [consisting of] two filters a 20 micron
and
a
4
micron bought off eBay and a pump and some gauges. This can be offered to another
family
for
a rental fee.
3. Send out a fuel sample to a lab for testing every year or two. Order a test
kit online.
I worked for a telephone company doing backup power systems nationwide for years.
Caterpillar provide me with a company that provides good products. I would not
go dumping anything into my generators I was not sure of or was not approved
by the manufacturer- TEN-32 is
the product I used.
Check out their
web site and e-mail them questions.
You have a great blog, I try to support the advertisers, too. Thanks, Ed S.
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Letter Re: Bulk Diesel Fuel Antibacterial and Stabilizer
Hi Jim,
For what it is worth: I was quoted $1.99/gal for diesel/fuel oil for Friday
delivery (Northern Virginia) from the terminal, and since it looks like prices
will be heading up from here, I am filling all of my reserve tanks. After
several hours of study, I decided to go with FPPF Super Fuel Storage Stabilizer
and FPPF KILLEM (rather than PRI-D or Stanadyne products) in 32 ounce bottles
to protect my investment. The best price I found via mail order was from Fleet
Source in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Delivered cost: $126 for enough
to treat 4,000 gallons.
I hope this is useful information for your other readers. Thank you so very
much for your wonderful work! Happy New Year! - Scott in Northern Virginia
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Two Letters Re: Jerry Cans Killed Nationwide by California Political Correctness
Mr. Rawles,
I just wanted to get the word out to all that have not heard yet, all non-CARB
(California Air Resources Board)-approved fuel cans will be no
longer be sold nationwide [in the US] after January 1, 2009.
That means you will not be able to buy any more of the ever-so-useful NATO
gas cans to store fuel in and I assume any other fuel can that does not meet
this new regulation. I know this is a little late to post this, I just found
out myself a few days ago. I talked to Maine Military Surplus this morning
and they
still have a few left and are expecting a new shipment soon although
they had to pay more for the latest ones.
With shipping these were just over $26 apiece. Anyone who thought this was
a free country needs to think again.
Thanks so much for all you do, Mr. Rawles. I hope you and yours had a very
Merry Christmas. - S. in Oklahoma
Sir:
I read the recent post on CARB compliant gas cans that are going to be mandatory
for the US in January. Here in Pennsylvania we've had them in place for a while
now. It might be good to let your readers know what they're in for.
My first words of advice to anyone in a non-CARB compliant state -- go
buy
any "old
style" gas cans that you can find now if you need them. The new
CARB compliant cans are a real pain in the rump to use. The CARB compliant cans
are the most over-engineered
product I've ever seen. They're airtight, child-proof, and typically require
3 hands to get gas out of them. The first models used a spout that hooked onto
the lip of a gas tank and needed to be pressed in to actually let gas out. Newer
models use a lever-style handle that's easier to deal with, but there's a child-proof
tab that needs to be pulled back before the lever can be pressed. Fortunately
that child proof tab can be removed out in about five seconds to make the cans
much more user-friendly. The CARB compliant cans are ventless; there's no more
little
vent opening and the venting is actually done through the spout. This prevents
evaporation
that occurs when the vent spout is open, but it means that air has
to come in while gas flows out and that makes emptying a can much slower. It
also means
that older spouts won't work well with new CARB compliant cans because they aren't
designed for venting through the spout. Emptying a 5 gallon CARB compliant gas
can through its supplied
venting spout takes about 5-to-6 minutes -- but it seems a lot longer when you're
holding the heavy can with one hand and pressing the pour lever with the other.
Fortunately, I've found a solution to the whole CARB compliance debacle --
the tried and
true siphon hose. I recently bought a "Super
Siphon" from Boat Show
Products -- what a great product! Unlike the CARB compliant spouts, the Super
Siphon
can
empty a fives gallon can in two minutes or less. I was looking for the fastest
and
easiest way
to fill up my cars from gas cans. The super siphon fits the bill. It uses a ball-check
valve to let liquid in but not back out, so there's no manual sucking gas through
the hose required. You just shake the check-valve end of the siphon hose up
and down into the gas can until the gas fills the hose and starts the flow then
physics takes over and the gas moves. I position the gas can I'm filling from
on a step ladder to keep it higher than the car's gas tank opening. No mess,
no
heavy
cans to hold and the fuel gets transferred quickly. Plus, I don't need to stand
there holding the can while it fills - my hands are free and I can pay attention
to something other than the gas can (Like getting the next can ready to go).
I have no business connection with the Super Siphon or the vendor, I'm
just a happy customer. I just wanted to pass the info along to anyone who stores
gas for a bug-out situation. There are other similar siphons on the market and
it might even be possible to build your own if you can find the check-valve piece
somewhere. I highly recommend that everyone who intends to fill their car with
a gas can at some point actually try it. Most CARB compliant cans don't have
nozzles long enough to fill a car, and even if they did it's a challenging if
not impossible
procedure.to hold the can, fumble with the child safety lock and the gas release
lever all while trying to keep the gas flowing into the 3/4 inch opening of the
gas tank. Siphoning is definitely the way to go.
Thanks for you blog; I've enjoyed reading it. - Doug in Pennsylvania
JWR Replies: Thanks for your letter. An even faster method
than a siphon pump is a homemade
12 VDC fuel transfer pump. Every prepared family should have one or two
of these.
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Two Letters Re: The Big Chill Causes Diesel Gelling Problems in the Lower 48
James:
The blog post regarding diesel gelling is correct for the most part. However
there are solutions that are easy and inexpensive. There are many aftermarket
additives that will keep your fuel oil from gelling and also raise the cetane
level of the fuel. The cetane level is similar to the octane level of gasoline,
the higher the better it burns. DieselKleen, Stanadyne and others are good
choices. My 6.0L Ford F350 gets a full mile per gallon better mileage with
the addition of DieselKleen and I have not had a single engine problem in over
two years
of operation. One gallon of DieselKleen is about $17 dollars at Wal-Mart and
treats 300 gallons of diesel fuel. For climates where freezing temperatures
are a concern, make sure to purchase an additive that has anti-gelling properties.
DieselKleen in the silver container is the anti-gelling formula. Hope this
helps. - Jim T.
JWR:
Those of us who live in Canada (in my case 60 miles northeast of Toronto)
and drive diesel vehicles (1990 diesel Land Cruiser, HDJ81) know the problem
of diesel gelling all too well.
However there are measures you can take to lessen the problem, e.g. add an
anti-gelling diesel additive with every fill up, the amount varies with brand).
In addition install a heater on your oil pan, a block heater to warm the coolant,
and lastly and by no means least, wrap your battery (two batteries, in my case)
with an electrically heated battery blanket. Also, use a lighter weight oil
in the winter, such as 5W40. Regards, - Mark N.
JWR Replies: As this
article (cited in Eric's letter) describes, unfortunately the currently
available selection of additives do
not work in preventing wax dropout in the new USLD formulations.
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Letter Re: The Big Chill Causes Diesel Gelling Problems in the Lower 48
Hi Jim,
My Bug Out Vehicle is a diesel truck that is also converted to run waste [vegetable]
oil, on my trips to my retreat I sometimes need to tank up. As all diesel
owners
(should)
know our new diesel is ULSD which
is a new standard for low sulfur in diesel. As this fuel becomes more common
and mandated more and more diesel pumps
dispense it with no other option.
Important information for those running diesels as their prime source of transport.
We've had fleets of school buses and even our street plows taken out of commission
in the -19 degree F weather we had last week with extremely bad fuel gelling.
This
article may explain it. Here is a quote from the article:
"The Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD (S-15)) that we started to receive
in mid 2006 has shown some dramatically different cold weather characteristics
from
the earlier High Sulfur (HSD (S-5000)) and Low Sulfur Fuels (LSD (S-500)).These
new characteristics including higher temperature gelling, wax dropout,
icing, and difficulty in treating have in the first year and will continue
into the foreseeable future to provide some significant challenges to distributors
and end users during cold weather. Due to these new characteristics users
in
areas of the US where they have not seen cold weather problems in the past,
are now and will continue to see
serious issues with gelling, wax dropout, and icing."
Regards, - Eric
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Letter Re: Winter Solstice Slam 2008--Observations from the Pacific Northwest
Hello Jim:
I send this to you from the snowy Seattle, Washington metropolitan area where we are
digging out of a fairly impressive storm of snow and icy temperatures that
have plagued
an
unprepared
area. As a cop and a Preparedness Oriented Person (POP), I have been watching
the lead up to and duration of this weather event. Here are some observations:
Advance Warning & Notification
Folks in these parts complained that there was little warning of the impending
snow event. Some stated that since weather forecasters were often wrong, they
would be wrong about this. When you had local television outlets, NOAA, The
Weather Channel and AccuWeather all providing similar information, some of
us would call that a trend likely to occur. Indeed, there was anywhere from
a week to 10 days advance warning and modeling showing the cold temperatures
and ice. Gosh, you didn’t have to have a degree in weather sciences to
understand that when warm air with moisture slides over the top of entrenched
cold air, you would get snow. Media outlets correctly warned folks to prepare.
In my observations, most did not heed the warning until it began to get bad.
Indeed, metropolitan areas (as I type this) have seen from 6-20 inches of snow.
Outlying areas are at three (3) feet or higher! That is impressive for this
area.
The Problems
Folks from other regions, especially the Midwest, often chuckle when folks
in the Western Pacific Northwest (Portland Metro and Tacoma-Seattle-Everett
Metro) areas complain of a few inches of snow. Problem is that much of these
cities are built on hilly areas. Some cities see a 500-800 foot elevation gain
within the city limits, features not seen with our neighbors in the plains.
Add to the mix infrequent snow events so there are few plows and you have an
immediate transportation problem. The lack of plows has hampered a quick cleanup
of arterials in the region along with a general reluctance to use road salts
(environmental issues so heartily embraced in this liberal region). Sand pits
are well away from urban areas so transportation of sand to terminal points
or public works yards were hampered. Most cities and the counties have given
up on side streets and less traveled rural roads, leaving them to become ice
skidding messes. Many people in the region were smug that their front, all
or four wheel drives would get them through the mess, up and down hills, all
without alternative traction devices like chains. That has led to nearly 1,000
collisions just on the interstates alone (early estimates are that there are
likely 10,000 or more collisions, spin outs, street blockages and so on in
the cities which have not tallied their response counts like the state). When
heavy
snow started falling, roads were passable at slow speeds. However, timid drivers
afraid of the snow would abandon their cars on the streets and state highways,
leading to blockages. These blockages would snarl traffic, cause collisions
and block major transit routes for goods and services. For the airports, a
shortage of liquid de-icer led to delays and cancellations (it should be noted
that one company in North America makes de-icer and a strike there led to shortages – a
ripple effect). Avalanche dangers led to passenger rail cancellations. Commercial
bus companies canceled their runs due to closed mountain passes or streets
adjacent to their terminals that were iced over and not sanded or plowed. At
one point, the roads became so poor that our chief ordered us back to the station
for emergency responses only, no active patrolling. Folks would call us for
the most inane stuff. Unfortunately, this was stuff we would respond to on
normal weather days. However, when they were told they were on their own to
solve these minor problems, they got mad! Somehow, it was foreign to many of
them to that they would have to solve problems like blocked cars or icy sidewalks.
Unreal and yet, expected for this area. Makes one think of the challenges people
would have in bugging out if a volcano were to cork off, an earthquake to split
some bridges or a WMD type event.
JIT Wasn’t In Time
Just In Time (JIT)deliveries
were hampered by the road conditions. Many gas stations in the region are starting
to run their tanks dry as commercial fuel
carriers
can’t move product safely on icy arterials and side streets. Grocery
stores reported runs on staples and emergency supplies (batteries, candles
and TP,
just to name some items) but were limited on restocking because normal 18 wheeler
rigs were downloaded to smaller trucks or bobtails, just to make
it safely. Many people failed to remember the last major storm we had and did
not fuel in advance, either gas cans for their generators or their vehicles.
Last week, prior to the storm and to beat an expected OPEC price
hike, I was refueling some gas cans and topping off my car. I had a fellow
look at me and
ask if I was expecting the worst. I explained that I would be ready as I had
learned early. His response to me was typical of folks in this area: “Nah,
we’ll have regular deliveries.” I expect his thirsty F250 must
be a bit annoying to him right now, especially after both gas station in my
area and many more surrounding gas stations in the area when dry. I spoke with
grocery store managers in my patrol area. They reported that people needed “just
a few things” to tie them over. These people came back to find limited
supplies like milk or eggs and were mad at the store! Certain large grocery
chain stores reported that they ran out of shopping carts as so many people
crowded into the stores to get what they could when the snow began to fall
and stick. A local hardware store manager told me that he had a stream of people
that came into his store, angry that he had sold out of faucet covers, rock
salt, presto fire logs and snow shovels. He laughed when he told me that he
saw the weather trending as did the corporate offices. They sent him additional
product to stock and he sold it quickly, early on to those he described as, “Preparing
early and correctly.” My liberal, elderly neighbors became snowbound.
They believed that the government would make sure they could drive by having
a plowed road in front of their house. [JWR Adds: See this
Seattle Times article for background on counterproductive city policy: Seattle
refuses to use salt; roads "snow packed" by design.] My wife
and I wound up assisting them with taking some supplies to them when they
ran
out
because
they could
not
get out to the store.
Personal Preparations
I have been though many weird storms in this area. When I started tracking
the forecasts 10 days out, I made sure I had the necessary food stuffs, fuel
and firewood ready. The generator was tested. The inverter cart was charged
and readied. The wood was stacked for easy access from the piles. The chainsaw
was tested and topped off. It didn’t take much. I asked folks both at
work and in the community if they were ready to hunker down if they needed
to. Most of my fellow officers looked at me and said, “it won’t
be that bad. I can always go out and get some stuff.” They would have
to admit to me later that it took an awful long time to go out to find that
milk, or it was sheer terror driving on the roads for a half gallon of milk.
Folks in the Pacific Northwest have no reason for not being prepared. And yet,
I saw the same mistakes being repeated. Folks lulled themselves into complacency,
believing that JIT deliveries would be there, roads would be tended to quickly
and they could get out there and take care of things, “as needed.” I
have learned it is the same folks who remain prepared, time and again, and
who help those who either are too sheep like to do the minor work of preparing
or recognizing that bad weather, environmental or mad-made events, can and
do occur.
I wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas and Winter Solstice. I’m
back to work in a day to deal with more snow (and more dealings with sheep).
- MP in Seattle (a Ten
Cent
Challenge subscriber)
« Letter Re: The Recent Storm in New England--A Ready and Able Family |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Mobile Choices for Survival Retreats by T.D.
Our family lives full time in our camping trailer and have found out there
would be
many
advantages
to
keeping
one
in any situation. I am not talking the big 5th wheel or the ones with a motor,
just a plain travel trailer [with a traditional vehicle hitch].
Our trailer is 27 feet long and weighs in at 9,500 lbs empty and almost 11,000
lbs full. It is a bunkhouse model and can sleep up to 11 people. It has a 40
gallon
fresh water tank, 40 gallon black water tank (waste) and a 40 gallon gray water
tank (drain off water from tub and sinks). It has 12 volt battery backup which
power
lights and the water pump when power is unavailable. The stove and hot water
heater run on propane, with the fridge working on both.
Storage can be short, but there is some – under the bottom bunk, the
full size bed in the bedroom, under the seats in the kitchen, 2 closets (very
small)
and cabinets in the living area and bedroom.
Our heater will heat up enough hot water for an eight minute shower and the
tub is the size of a 10 gallon bucket. When we are parked in an RV park with
power
included
in the lot fees, we heat our trailer with electric heaters. This saves us money
on propane. If we just cook and shower using the propane, then we will go through
two 35 pound tanks in just under one year.
We have been buying or having a friend collect empty older propane tanks and
then we have been trading them in at Wal-Mart for under $18.00 each. Small
solar panels were purchased from Harbor Freight Tools for under $40.00 each,
they
will [slowly] recharge
a 12 volt battery. We will be purchasing more panels as we go so that our entire
trailer could be run off them.
We have inline water filters and portable ones, we have potable aqua tablets
and shock. Our water tank can be filled by hose or in a pinch by bucket and
funnel. After Gustav most of the water here was very bad (boil water order
for all of
our parish, even for bathing in some areas). When some of our neighbors had
no hot water for their special needs family member they came to us and we hauled
hot water for them (we were they only ones in an RV to come right back within
72 hours of the passage of Hurricane Gustav). We also have an external shower.
We do have a propane burner for outside, most people here use those for crawfish.
We have one very cheap charcoal grill and a good supply of charcoal. We can
make our own if need be.
After Hurricane Gustav we were without power for two weeks and used our interior
12 volt DC lights for night time only and for about 20 minutes at a time. Our
battery
gauge didn’t indicate any voltage drop.
When we do our shows and are in practice we can be ready to move out within
1 hour and we are still working to par that time down even further. What this
means
for us is that here we could drive out quickly with our home or even put it
on a platform on numerous pontoons making our trailer into a riverboat. We
live
near a very rural area and large uninhabited waterways, where you can go out
all day and not see of hear anyone at all.
Our retreat will have a home and a large barn that will house our RV, keeping
prying eyes away from it and also giving us a place to go to if heating ever
becomes an issue. When the SHTF we can camouflage the RV in another location
for a further retreat position, still have shelter and a way to keep everyone
fed.
Our trailer is a 1995 and we bought it for under 5,000. You can get them
very cheap further north during the off season and move them fairly cheap now
that
gas has come down a lot. We went smaller because of the towing needs. No matter
what you still need to haul it, even if it’s to your retreat.
Granted, it would be more difficult, but not impossible, to utilize in colder
climates. Good windbreaks and insulation in the under compartments helps tremendously.
Plastic on the windows with the exception of the vents also helps.
In some states that get a lot of hurricanes also are places a lot of people
actually live in trailers year round. What sometimes happens when they are
lived all the
time is they get stripped out to the bare walls and customized. They are cheaper
and easier to reinforce that way. A 40 foot trailer stripped out can run you
about
$1,500 to $2,000
dollars. Most people here take out the kitchen area which I wouldn’t
do. They also remove the fresh water tank and if anything I would make the
fresh
water tank larger than 40 gallons, leaving in the electric pump. With full
solar capability you can leave the power system intact and go from there.
In our closets we added small shelves that will hold two weeks of clothing
for each of us, four all together. The fridge and freezer will hold 1 gallon
of
milk, a weeks worth of leftovers, four dozen eggs, one 2-quart juice pitcher
(from Camping
World, made for trailer size fridges), condiments and the freezer will hold
more than one week's worth of meat. The cabinets will hold three weeks of
canned goods, spices
and what we need for baking for six months. Under the little counter extension
we have flour, sugar and rice (large storage containers from Wall-Mart),
those last us about three months. We also have food stored under one bed and
under both seats in the kitchen. By the garbage can we keep a one month supply
of dog
food for our 90 pound German Shepherd cross.
To keep our space requirements smaller, we went small flat screen television,
a cheap and tiny DVD player
and low profile PC tower. Movies are not kept in single
cases,
they are kept in DVD folders with zippers. Our children are limited to what
toys they can have and it must all fit in toy hammocks or collapsible toy boxes
at
the end of their beds. Our guns are easy to stow in the trailer and are always
within reach. On hand we also keep quite a bit of ammo and buy more weekly.
We do
maintain an inexpensive storage unit elsewhere, and we keep the bulk of our
SHTF supplies
there for under $80 a month.
There are a lot of extras you can buy for your RV, including wheeled containers
to drain black and gray water into for disposal. Pots and pans made for smaller
areas, heavier dishes that will last through everything including travel. RV
size washers and dryers or the all in ones, which are no bigger than an RV
stove. Shower organizers can be installed easily to increase your bathroom
storage.
One of the biggest things to like about an older trailer is that no one even
looks twice at it, people who don’t own one have no clue how self sufficient
you can be in one. It’s not new enough or dressed up enough to get a
second look from a trouble makers and family never wants to come stay, none
of them
can figure out why you would want to trade down and live in something so small.
It also makes it easier if you have others that will join you when the SHTF
and you are running out of places to put people.
« "Little House" Books--A Great Homeschooling and Preparedness Mindset Resource |Main| Mobile Choices for Survival Retreats by T.D. »
Letter Re: The Recent Storm in New England--A Ready and Able Family
Hi Jim.
I have been a long time reader of your blog and have spent quite a
bit of money with many of your terrific advertisers. I am writing to tell you
about the serenity of my day in the midst of the hard hitting ice storm up
here in New England. Thanks to the information you present in your blog and
the preparation that I have taken over the last few years, all I had to do
to prepare for this storm the day before was two things - fill the fire wood
box and fill the bath tub for toilet flushing water.
I already had food stocked up. I had drinking water available. I had heat via
a wood stove. I had a generator. I had plenty of fuel for the generator. (I
was even able to loan a spare generator and fuel out to a friend.) I had fresh
batteries for the flashlight and radios. I had a scanner to listen to all the
emergency calls in the area. (You will realize how under-prepared your neighbors
are by all the assistance calls.) I had plenty of alternative lighting (candles
and LED lights). I had sufficient quantities of ice melt and sand on hand.
The great thing was that I wasn't stressed out before, during or after the
storm. My family mentioned over and over how terrific it was to be prepped.
I was fortunate that they were on the "let's get prepped" band wagon
with me over the last few years. I got to enjoy the ice sculptures of the day
and was able to help out someone else, too. The simple fact of all this is
that by being prepared you get to relax a bit during a potentially stressful
time. This wasn't an end of the world scenario but nonetheless the preparation
was almost the same. Being prepped for any emergency isn't
that hard to do and the resources you collect over time are useful in nearly
any condition.
It was actually a bit fun to see all this preparation fall nicely into place.
Thanks for all you do! - Relaxed in New England
« Letter Re: 2,000+ Antique Books on Farming Available on-Line |Main| Note from JWR: »
Sabotage and Counter-Sabotage, by A. Farm Graduate
The purpose of this article is to put another skill (if not a skill, perhaps
a seed) in the mental toolkit of preparedness-oriented individuals. Although
not an exhaustive study on clandestine operations, this article will give
you a glimpse into an advantage seeking two part mindset – sabotaging
the enemy’s equipment and keeping your equipment from getting sabotaged!
It is assumed the condition under which this article would find use is the
end of the world as we know it (TEOTWAWKI). Please don’t go
do something listed in this article that you don’t have the skill or
legal right to do.
You want to ensure the survival of yourself and your loved ones. I’m
sure you’ve made preparations to do so, right? You have to keep your
equipment preparations running to get a tactical or survival advantage from
them. You must learn to see your equipment through the eyes of a saboteur.
This will allow you to spot equipment vulnerabilities. Why would anyone want
to sabotage your gear? They would do it for the same reasons they would threaten
you in the first place. Their lack of morals, planning, and diligence, brought
to the surface by a desperate situation, leads them to persecute you for gain.
Your equipment stands in their way. The reason could be that they don’t
want you to have anything they don’t have!
Some may consider sabotage a little too proactive – too dangerous even.
We’re talking nightmarish end-of-the-world stuff here. We’re talking
about using any and every tool in the box to keep our loved ones safe. Sabotage
is a no-brainer if you are gutsy enough to use recon teams or actually make
an armed stand. Once you get past the negative aura of the word “sabotage,” you
realize it is indeed a valuable skill. Why would we ever want to sabotage someone’s
equipment? It is the same reason that causes us to buy expensive battle rifles
and copious quantities of ammunition – to deny the enemy the ability
to take our freedom and lives. If you do not maintain or gain the tactical
advantage, will not the enemy gain it? What good is a stockpile of all the
latest gear or a heap of brain power and courage if you simply refuse to fully
use it? Learn to see the enemy’s equipment through the eyes of a saboteur
to reap huge tactical rewards. Perhaps the elimination of the enemy’s
advantage will spare you from having to take his life. Sabotage can have a
large psychological impact. A discovered act of sabotage lets the enemy know
that they are not safe. It will throw them “off their game.”
You can hide in your retreat, counting bullets while sporting only your lucky
camouflage boxers. However, you wouldn’t need that expensive battle rifle
and all that ammunition if no one could ever find you. You will have a confrontation
with a hostile organized group. It’s too small a world with too few morals.
Ruthlessness is surely a trait that would allow said hostile group to survive
in lieu of preparedness. They’ll be roving the wasteland looking for
more supplies and victims. Their survival would be evidence of their pillaging
proficiency. As we all learned in grade school, bad people don’t fight “fair.” There
will most likely be more people in their group than in your group. As we get
older, we realize that fighting “fair” really means fighting with
a handicap. There must be some pseudo-religious notion in the subconscious
mind of upright people that tells them anything remotely perceived as “sneaky” is
wrong. When someone threatens the life of you and your loved ones, then you
must do whatever it takes to protect yourselves. This is why survivalists who
actually
survive TEOTWAWKI will use tools like sabotage.
Types of Sabotage
The first type of sabotage is covert. That is, the target does not discover
the non-working machine for some time or discovers the non-working machine
but does not immediately suspect foul play. This type of sabotage requires
the most skill, time, and planning. A lightly armed team of two lookouts
and one technician, each fully blacked-out with NVGs and good noise
discipline, could accomplish a fantastically effective covert sabotage. One
person with nerves of steel, a pile of patience, and the proper motivation
can work wonders too! Some of the reasons for covert sabotage are listed
below.
1. Keeping the target from knowing there is a hostile force in the area.
2. Attempting to avoid retaliation from target.
3. Extra time for escape and evasion.
4. Attacking the target right before it discovers its equipment doesn’t
work (surprise!).
The second type of sabotage is overt. It could be loud, fast, and ugly. It
could also be just loud, just fast, or just ugly. If this type of sabotage
had a mascot, it’d be a sledgehammer. Once the target gets near the machine,
it’s red alert time. The target may even hear or see the sabotage happen.
It doesn’t matter; you just want his machine out of the game! Overt sabotage
is mostly the stuff of last ditch seat-of-the-pants defenses. Some of the reasons
for overt sabotage are listed below.
1. Approaching enemy vehicles.
2. Quickly shutting down enemy communications.
3. Diversions.
Covert Vehicular Sabotage
Covert vehicular sabotage can range from slowing the target down to keeping
them from moving at all. Probably the most cunning covert design is that which
leaves a small team stranded some distance from base camp. The designer would
have a good opportunity to ambush the stranded team. The following list is
a sample of what can be done. It is mostly arranged from mild to wild. Not
all items are applicable to all vehicles. Some of these items may require the
use of an “improvised” car door key. Some vehicles have the hood
release cable located directly behind the grille, which can be manipulated
to open the hood without gaining access to the interior of the vehicle. Remember,
it is assumed that the perpetrator has put some thought and planning into situations
like these:
- Water in the fuel tank. What is more innocuous than this?
- Loosened valve
stem on one of the tires - just enough so that the tire will be flat in the
morning.
- Replacement of a critical fuse (fuel pump, ignition) with a blown
fuse of the same value.
- Cut on bottom (non visible) side of main engine belt
deep enough to reach the interior cords. This action removes most of the
belt’s tensile strength
and creates a stress riser in the belt. The result is no alternator,
water pump, power steering, or AC – oh my.
- Loosened or removed lower
radiator hose clamp. Coolant will leak out under pressure when the engine
gets warm (away from base camp that is). Loosened oil plug or filter. Oil
will leak more freely once it is warm (away from base camp that is).
- Loosened
battery cable. This could turn into a nasty surprise if the battery is emitting
hydrogen when the sparks start.
- Un-plugged vacuum lines.
- Modified ignition timing. Distributor equipped
vehicles only.
- Plastic electrical connectors un-plugged from critical sensors – just
enough to break electrical contact. A look of authenticity is given when
the small connector retainer arm is broken.
- Switched spark plug wires that
are similar in length. Not for coil-per-plug vehicles.
- Bleach in the fuel
tank. Once cranked, the engine will eventually sputter and stop. (Mythbusters rule!).
Examples of Overt Vehicular Sabotage Here is a partial list of the easy, ugly,
quick, and dirty.
- Slashed tires
- Cut fuel lines
- Cut transmission lines
- Cut coolant hoses
- Cut under-hood wires
- Large holes put in the radiator or fuel tank
- High-powered rifle bullets
fired into the engine block or transmission of approaching enemy vehicles
- Explosives
wired to the ignition switch circuit
Examples of Stationary Equipment Sabotage
- Cut power wires
- Cut control wires
- Cut antenna signal and guy wires
- Loosened electrical connections – done
when equipment is de-energized
- Water or dirt placed in bearings
- Removal of chain master link retainers – done
while equipment is stopped
Protecting Your Equipment from Sabotage
We have explored some sabotage possibilities. Hopefully you will start examining
your equipment for possible vulnerabilities. It is not possible to list
every conceivable scenario here like a playbook, therefore, it is important
you learn
to use your imagination and think like a saboteur. Use the following list
as
a starting point:
- Know your equipment
- Inspect your equipment often
- Don’t leave equipment where it is visible
- if possible
- Always lock every lock (sidearms excluded)
- Mark the head of bolts and the
bolted equipment with aligned paint dots for indication of tampering
- Use fasteners
with tamper resistant heads (High security bits are uncommon)
- On vehicles, cover the lower engine
compartment openings with expanded metal
- Run power and communications wiring
underground and have it enter a building through the floor thereby minimizing
outside exposure
- Run critical wires in conduit
- Run “dummy” wires in plain sight
while hiding the route of the actual critical wires
- Install an alarm with
security lights and motion detectors in critical areas
- Use dogs to alert
you to suspicious activity
- Use sentries to watch the premises
- Move the equipment to a secure shelter
or build a secure shelter around the equipment
Use layered security (combination of all) for the most effective setup. -
A. Farm Graduate
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Overseas Retreat Owner Profile: Mr. and Mrs. Zephyr in Trinidad and Tobago »
Letter Re: Another Perspective on Vehicles for Prepared Families
Hi,
We've read your blog pretty faithfully for some time now and found it
extremely good in all regards.
While I'm actually writing regarding vehicles, I'd like to share for just a
moment how preparedness saved our behinds recently. This year we have had a
string of minor events that collectively should have put us in the poor house.
Broken bones, loss of a tenant and friend to a heart issue, surgery, car accident
that totaled the vehicle - right in the middle of the other mentioned things
- and a few other items too. Had we not maintained a small garden and some "stocks
on hand" in our "urban" small town home, we could have lost
our home and sanity to boot. Yes, it can happen to you, it happened to me,
and it's going to happen to others too. Christian Charity helped us, and we
honor that by being charitable at every opportunity! Praise to The Most High
God!
I don't recall seeing any thoughts on types and methodology towards automobiles
themselves lately. Here's a (hopefully few) brief thoughts on the autos we
rely on every day, and how to optimize our driving experiences, no matter
the conditions that surround us.
First, I highly recommend getting out of car (or truck) payments as quickly
as possible. Fixing up your auto of choice for bugging out will do no good
if your finances get hosed, and the repo man shows up. Also, not having a car
payment, we can afford a few more dollars for gas and maintenance, and still
save money. Not requiring full coverage insurance because of a car payment
helps even more.
Second, know your vehicle! Even if you're totally inept at mechanical stuff,
a basic set of tools and a good manual will do wonders. Keep good records of
breakdowns, installed parts, maintenance, and usage (has your teenage son been
hot rodding around town?). Knowing your car's quirks, needs, and limitations
are very important. Keep the maintenance up, and if you have the ability, do
your own work. That stripped bolt that your mechanic didn't tell you about
may come back to haunt you. Research your type of car/truck on the Internet
and join a forum for advice, "tips and tricks", and "life expectancies" of
all the sub-assemblies (engine/tranny,
suspension, electricals, etc..). Our flavor of Ford Explorers have a bad rap
for transmission problems, but few
people actually ever have their tranny serviced. Maintenance is key to longevity.
A well maintained used auto will usually serve you well. The previously mentioned
Internet research and forums are great for those little tips/tricks to maximize
your vehicle, what works and what doesn't, and how to overcome many problems
cost effectively. Several common Explorer problems are cheap fixes, instead
of expensive parts - when you find out the "trick". Predictive maintenance
is a handy thing too. Realizing that the alternator is original on a 1998 whatever-car
merits checking it over good, or replacing it and shelving the old one as "backup
spare part", for example.
Third, selecting a new purchase. I'm generally writing in the regard of those
who already own something they want to keep, but we should consider those who
are looking to buy something better and/or more reliable. Mr. Rawles
has recommended a few very durable autos, older diesel Mercedes wagons for
one I think. Good choices, but I wonder about parts availability. My old 1978
F150
4x4 is a great truck, but sadly parts are becoming harder to get. I actually
prefer the most common SUV for
the area that you live in, in my case Ford Explorers. (I'll admit a little
bias, I was raised in a Ford family) Parts are plentiful,
and generally not expensive. Again - Maintenance is key to longevity.
When looking at a new purchase, please consider availability of parts in your
area, ease of maintenance and repair, and expected life cycle. How the vehicle
in question was treated before you own it is a crap shoot, but a shoddy interior
and greasy under the hood or underside are tip offs to a bad experience. So
is unevenly worn tires, drips under car/truck on the pavement, or hanging wires
under the
dash. Many youngsters have damaged wires in the dash trying to hook up a fancy
stereo, for example. A glove box full of receipts for parts is a plus to me.
It shows that those parts don't need replacing soon, and I know what's been
done lately. Is the current owner friendly and willing to let you have a mechanic
look it over? Often that willingness on the sellers behalf is enough to keep
me happy. Exercise some caution with modified vehicles, some folks do great
installing a lift kit in a 4x4 truck, some don't (for example). Engine mods
can be tricky too. (Can you tell I'm a country boy?)
Fourth, commonality and spare parts. Although parts availability (from a store)
was mentioned a bit, consider junk yards a second line of components. Further,
if you find a cheap and complete car/truck of your year (or "generation")
with a bad motor or other issue(s), buy that puppy and park it out back - just
for parts. Apartment dwellers wouldn't fair well in this regard. About commonality,
my gal and I drive the same model of SUV. She has a '93 4x4 Explorer, mine
is a '92 (also 4x4). The parts donors are a '92 (wrecked) and a '95. The '95
isn't really all the same, but several parts have swapped well for us. '91-'94
Explorers are common and swap parts extremely well. '95 - '01 Explorers look
the same, but there's enough changes over the years to make it a difficult
call (motors, trannys, and other things). [JWR Adds: I do
not recommend Ford Explorers made before 1995, because of their higher center
of gravity, which
means they have a much higher roll-over risk. Lift kits are definite no-no
for 1994 and earlier Explorers! Also, if possible, try to find a "Flex Fuel"
variant, so you can burn E85
ethanol as well as gasoline.] Of course,
whatever
your flavor of transportation, these principles apply. How
many years
was the
auto
in
question produced in that configuration (or "generation")? I'm mentioning
the Ford Explorers not because I think they're the "best", they're
extremely common here. I worked an hour north of my home for awhile, and I
hardly ever saw one there. Odd, but true. There were lots of Chevy Blazers
and GMC Jimmys
there though.
Yep - parts, I keep mentioning that. They wear out, they get broken and damaged.
A stray bullet or even a rock off the road in a bad place (between a belt and
pulley for example) can be a side of the road event. If you can't fix it and
find the parts, it's a great big paperweight. I dare say I have more raw weight
in parts than I do tools in my garage. Most breakdowns can be dealt with, after
closing time at the parts house. When it's vital to be able to go - I'm going!
Do you have a case of oil on hand? Filters? Anti-freeze? Transmission fluid?
Brake fluid?
Do you have these things at your retreat area?
Do you have a few dents and scratches on your ride? I leave them alone on mine.
It adds to the "OPSEC".
Obviously, gas (or diesel) might get in short supply in troubled times, but
in the meantime we can optimize what we've got and save some cash.
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Two Letters Re: A Vehicular BoB
Mr. Editor:
I have been a reader of this blog for a little while now and one of the earlier
postings I read caught my eye: In regards to a vehicle “bug out” kit.
That list was certainly a good place to start, but it was missing a few items,
so I thought I would put my “two cents” worth in.
To give you a little bit of background, I would describe myself as essentially
being a realist. I watch the news, I read the papers. I know what is going
on around me. I am aware of today’s political and economic climate, and
I understand what that does (and can) mean; not only for today but for tomorrow
as well. In my opinion preparation and knowledge are the keys to not only surviving,
but for nearly anything in life.
I have worked both white-collar and blue collar jobs. I have been a soldier
(an NCO – I
worked for a living), and I have been what I term a “survivalist” for
a little over a decade now. Along the way I have managed to learn some of the
lessons the easy way; reading books, talking to people, experimenting, and
practice, practice, practice. While other lessons were learned at the school
of “hard-knocks”; try sitting on the side of the road in the middle
of a blizzard for six hours on Christmas Day with three children praying for
someone else to come along to help (I’m not kidding about that one) – all
because you thought “it could never happen to you”. I am an active
outdoorsman; camping, fishing, hiking, small game, etc. To date I have been
lucky enough to live through them all. Sometimes with a few bumps and scrapes
along the way, and sometimes with little more
than a bruised ego; but I have survived nonetheless. Not surprisingly on my
journey I have picked up a few things: “must have” items, advice,
knowledge, and most of all experience.
As for geography I have lived in the cold and wet of Washington state; the
extreme cold of Colorado; the hot and dry of West Texas; and now the hot, wet
and hurricane-prone area of East Texas; and this list contains items that have
literally saved my life on more than one occasion, while making crisis situations
a whole lot easier to deal with in others.
While I am not going to lay claim at being an expert on the subject of survival
or preparations; I have seen a done things that may genuinely surprise some
people (while possibly boring others) and could probably go on for hours on
end; but that is not my point here today. I now possess [what I feel] is enough
knowledge that I can speak with at least some authority. My point in this
is to allow others to learn from
my own mistakes
in the hopes that they don’t find themselves forced to repeat the same
errors that I have made. Learn from others – that is the point in all
of this.
As I write this I am proud to say that none of my vehicles are ever without
the bare essentials. In my opinion it is one of the things that everyone should
do, survivalist or not. I rank properly equipping my vehicles right up there
with having them registered, insured, and inspected, to me it is simply a necessity,
a requirement. In an attempt to make sense of this I broken the lists down
into four basic areas:
Vehicle Supplies
Personal Supplies
Glove-Box Miscellaneous (loose throughout the vehicle)
General Miscellaneous
While there is some repetition between the 4 areas, this is done so for a reason – it
is always a good idea to have a backup.
1. Vehicle supplies (most will fit in a small “duffle” or reasonably
sized “tool bag”, kept in trunk, cargo area, or under the seat)
Jumper Cables (get the good ones)
Tow Rope (at least 1)
2 cans of “fix-a-flat”
Air compressor (cigarette lighter plug in)
Roll of Duct Tape (if you can’t fix it, duck it)
100ft of parachute cord (550 cord)
X style lug-wrench (more torque, safer, and more versatile than the ones that
come with cars today)
2 1⁄2 ton bottle jack (again safer, and more versatile than the ones
that come with cars today)
Roadside Flares (3 minimum)
Hand-held spotlight, plug in type is fine
Electrical Kit with:
Spare Fuses – vehicle specific
Spare Bulbs – vehicle specific
Small roll of Red Wire (14-16 GA)
Small roll of Green Wire (14-16 GA)
Small Assortment of Butt Splices
Circuit tester (Screwdriver type)
Electrical tape
Spare belts – vehicle specific
Spare hoses – vehicle specific
Spare thermostat – vehicle specific
Assortment of hose clamps, at least two large enough for your coolant hoses
Flashlight (2 minimum – generator type are best, LED Generator types
are better)
Spare batteries – 1 set for each flashlight in the vehicle (if needed)
Tarp (8 x 10’ is usually sufficient)
Hand Tools:
Screwdrivers (4 minimum, 2 standard 2 Phillips-head)
Crescent Wrenches (2 minimum, 6” and 12”)
Slip-Joint Pliers
Needle-Nose Pliers
Wire Cutters
Channel-Locks (12”)
Socket set (basics only, 3/8” drive, SAE and Metric)
Combination Wrench set ((basics only, SAE and Metric)
Allen Wrench set
Small Hammer
Hatchet (axe)
Folding Shovel
Plastic Trash bags (2 minimum)
Coffee Can full of Cat litter (with lid)
Basic First Aid Kit, with the following additions:
Aspirin
Tylenol
Motrin
Antacid Tablets
Water purification tablets
Small tube of Neosporin
Additional alcohol pads
Additional band-aids (common sizes)
Cravat
Razor blade
Matches
Can of Sterno (large)
Wire coat hanger
Roll of bailing wire
Box of matches (at least 1 box)
Cigarette lighter (disposable, spend the buck and a half and get the Bic brand,
you can’t beat them)
Water bottle
Pen(s)
Small notepad
A small stash of cash ($50 to $100)
Spare compass
Rain poncho – 2
Emergency Blanket (foil type) – 2
Candles – 6
Sunscreen
Basic Fishing kit:
Hooks
Sinkers
Fishing Line
Bobbers
2. Personal Supplies (with a little patience and forethought, this will all
fit inside of and/or attached to a medium sized book-bag, i.e. backpack)
Basic First Aid Kit – duplicate of the aforementioned kit
1 pair of socks
Flannel shirt
Windbreaker
Baseball cap
Multi-tool
“Swiss Army” knife
Fixed blade knife
Basic Camping Mess Kit
Travel Toothbrush
Toothpaste
Toilet paper
Tissues
Sunscreen
Flashlights (2 minimum)
Compass
50 ft of parachute cord (550 cord)
Can of Sterno (small)
SPAM – 1 can
Tuna fish – 1 can
Rice – 1⁄2 lb
Lintels – 1⁄2 lb
“Gorp” (Trail mix) – 1⁄2 lb
Packet of powdered Gatorade
Zip-lock bag with:
Sugar packets
Salt Packets
35mm film canisters full of All-spice
Tea bags
Bullion Cubes
Vitamin Pills
Energy bars (3 minimum)
P-38 can opener
Rain poncho
Poncho Liner
Tarp – 5 x 8” is usually sufficient
Candles – 3
Matches
Cigarette lighter
Emergency blanket (Mylar foil type) – 2
Signaling mirror
Basic Fishing kit:
Hooks
Sinkers
Fishing Line
Bobbers
Small Hikers Trowel
Plastic trash bag (2 minimum)
A small stash of cash ($40 to $50) [JWR Adds: I recommend that be
in rolls of Quarters, so you can also use pay phones.]
Water purification tablets
Canteen
Canteen cup
Web Belt
3. Glove-Box Miscellaneous (kept loose in the glove box, in the vehicles console,
or in door pockets)
Package of Tissues
Cigarette Lighter
Small Multi-tool
“Button” or other small compass
Map of local city you are in, and the state(s) you are traveling – or
expect to travel.
Small tube with a mix of aspirin, Motrin, and Tylenol.
Pen(s)
Small notepad
A small, durable pocket-knife
Small Flashlight
One $20 bill
4. General Miscellaneous
Fuel can – store empty; you never know when you will run out of fuel
two miles form the nearest gas station. If you are evacuating, fill up as you
leave – this will reduce your risk of fumes/explosion.
One gallon of potable water
1 Qt Engine Oil (minimum)
1 Qt Transmission Fluid (minimum)
1 Pt Power Steering Fluid (minimum)
Assortment of “bungee” cords
Now I am sure that I have probably missed a few items here, but this list is
fairly comprehensive. Please feel free to add items to it – I am always
eager to learn more.
If you look through it, you should be able to think of one (and most of the
time multiple) uses for each and every item on this list. With this setup you
basically have what you need whether you are accompanied or alone and whether
you stay with the vehicle, leave the vehicle, or are for some reason forced
to separate your party (never a good idea – remember there is always
strength in numbers). But you get the point.
In colder climates, add more food, and more warmth items (sleeping bag, snow
boots, candles, or a heavy coat?). In warmer climates add more fluids and more
shade (bottled water, additional hats, or maybe an umbrella?).
On to the next topic – How much does all of this cost? Well that can
vary widely. Many of these items can be had at the local dollar store, while
other may take a little bit of searching. Check Wal-Mart, your local Military
surplus dealer, the flea markets, and pawn shops. You might be surprised just
how far you can make your dollars go. Plus don’t try to do it all in
one shopping trip – you will just frustrate yourself. Keep your eyes
open when you are at the grocery store or out doing your normal shopping; pick
up a few items here and there, and just slowly equip your vehicle. Within a
month or two you will suddenly find your vehicle is much better equipped than
it ever was before.
As to the vehicle preparation mentioned in the earlier post, this is all good
advice. But again I would add to it. Create yourself a short checklist of items
that you check weekly and monthly. Follow the owners manual that came with
the vehicle, they tend to be fairly comprehensive.
Some tricks I have learned include:
Remember to check the air pressure in your spare tire regularly. A spare doesn’t
do any good if it is flat too.
Don’t forget to check the brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield
washer fluid too, these are often over looked.
Never, ever overfill any of your vehicle’s fluids.
Keep all of your lights clean, headlights, brake lights etc. The better they
work, the better you see, and are seen.
Whenever adding accessories to your vehicle: make additions that work, and
that matter before you worry about “pretty”. Think of it this way
- which is more important (and useful) on a full-size truck – a good
trailer hitch, or a pair of fancy mud flaps? You get my point.
When adding electrical accessories, always use the next heavier gauge wire,
it will handle to load better, last longer, and prevent not only short circuits,
but fires as well.
A good CB is
always a wise investment, but make
sure that it is installed properly.
Engine and Transmission oil cooler can extend the life of your vehicle – and
mean the difference between getting there and getting stuck – especially
in hot weather and heavy traffic. They are definitely worth the money.
Own a truck, van or SUV? Look into an oversized fuel tank and/or a spare fuel
tank with a transfer pump. It may be expensive, but it will pay for itself
over time; between having the ability to fuel up for a cheaper price per gallon,
combined with the extended range the vehicle will now have – it is definitely
worth at least considering.
Consider installing an aftermarket, oversized fuel filter. Cleaner fuel means
longer engine life. Plus some of the newer vehicles don’t even have an
inline fuel filter – they are mounted inside the tank itself. Who was
the genius that came up with this gem anyway?
If your vehicle doesn’t have them, install tow hooks both front and rear.
They do not have to be conspicuous, but they need to be there.
Don’t skimp on wiper blades, buy the good ones and replace them often.
If you can’t see, you can’t drive.
Keep the engine bay clean – it makes finding a leak a whole lot easier,
and makes life a whole lot more pleasant when making repairs.
It also it isn’t a bad idea to add seasonal items to your kits. For example
if you live in area prone to snow, you should probably have a set of tire chains/cables
with you in the colder months, but then why would you want to carry them in
July?
Lastly a few words of advice:
First: know how to use everything you put in your kit. Practice with it before
you put it in the vehicle – few tools are as dangerous as the ones in
the hands of the uninformed.
Second: check your local laws on exactly what is considered a weapon,
and what is considered concealed. You may want to think twice before you run
out and buy that shiny Rambo knife with the 12 inch blade and have it strapped
to the outside of your back pack sitting under your seat.
Third: in regards to knives, multi-tools, hand tools and the like – you
generally get what you pay for. That cheap knife at the flea market is normally
just that – cheap. It may be better than nothing at all, and the truth
is that if that is all you can afford – then fine. But understand that
up front.
Fourth: when choosing the storage bags to put these items in – think
about the size, shape, and color of the bag you buy. There is not a right or
wrong here, get what fits your situation. And think about the straps. There
may be a situation where you find yourself forced to carry these bags, so good
shoulder strap are important. And just as with knives and hand tools – you
generally get what you pay for.
Lastly, a word about any and all foodstuffs you keep in your kit: remember
that all food expires sooner or later – a even water can only sit for
so long before it is no longer fit to consume. Trust me when I tell you that
yes, even SPAM can and will go bad with time (you really, really don’t
want to know how I know that). So rotate your foodstuffs regularly.
The long and the short of it is that some sort of vehicle kit really should
be in each and every car, truck, SUV, or van on the road. With a little bit
of thought and not a whole lot of money we can all prepare ourselves better.
No traveler should be without what they consider to be the basics. - David
H. in Southeast Texas
[JWR Adds: Thanks for those great lists! The only additions
that I'd make to your lists are a fire extinguisher, and depending on whether
off-road travel is anticipated, more robust pioneer tools. These should include
an ax,
pick,
shovel,
and if space permits, a Hi-Lift jack.]
Jim,
Hugh D. sent in a good letter about using his trailer as a large bug-out kit.
The concept isn't bad (as long as he's on the road and off again before the
masses figure out something is wrong) but then he said this:
"This has been overcome with careful planning on our part. First, we have
mapped out likely hide spots for ourselves and the trailer – mostly campgrounds
on National Forest lands," and then regarding some cabins near the campground, "...we
can move into a nice, if rustic, survival retreat."
No offense, but I wouldn't exactly consider this careful planning. If Hugh
doesn't think that for every marked camping site in America there aren't 100
guys (who also own guns) already thinking about that same site, he's crazy.
Worse, he has no claim of "right" when it comes to those cabins.
He is no more entitled to a cabin there than the next guy that comes along
and wants to evict him and take it for himself. Furthermore, he's got kids
in diapers (I do too) - he isn't going to be able to defend both his family
and his "stuff" in a public campground whose location is published
on every map and travel guide in America.
I'd suggest that Hugh reconsider his plans. The trailer is good but find somewhere
else to go. As an example, I live in the Dallas area and have friends who own
a ranch about three hours away in central Texas and can be reached using a
number of combinations of country roads and state highways. It's on 500 hilly
acres twenty miles from the closest town, whose population is a couple thousand
people. You can't see a single building on the ranch from the state highway
- you have to drive a winding county dirt road a few miles to get to the houses
and barns. My friends who own the ranch think I'm nuts (they aren't survivalists
by any means, but retired city folk who wanted to run a peach orchard in retirement).
Nonetheless, they have agreed that if I need to get out of town I can come
down there with no prior notice. - Matt R.
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Letter Re: A Vehicular Bug-Out Kit
One thing that I have not seen properly addressed anywhere online is an appropriate
kit for the bug out vehicle.
You folks in snow country can reply to this with some recommendations for that
scenario. Please do.
I survived five hurricanes , one of them in the Virgin Islands, over the years
so I consider myself an advanced student of the Bug Out Vehicle.
First and foremost.
Cars are useless without fuel. They make a decent shelter but they're tough
to carry with you. I haven't seen a backpack that would hold one.
Get yourself as many large cans as you can fit reasonably in (or on)
the vehicle and keep them full at all times. [Because of fire hazard in the
event of a collision, if your car has a gas engine, these cans should normally
kept at home, in an outbuilding. Consult your local fire code.] Rotate your
fuel. Fill the car and cans one week and the next time
you
need
gas, then
empty
some
of
the cans
(say
2
out of
4
six gallon
cans) and refill them immediately. My kit includes 5, six-gallon
cans of diesel and one full of water in case of radiator problems and to provide
drinking water. I have a roof rack so they're a non-issue.
Cars are very hard to drive on flat tires. I recall after Hurricane Andrew
in 1992 the chaos at
any store that had anything in stock. There was no electricity for weeks so
no gas
available, for the most
part...or much else.Oh, and remember that no electricity = no credit cards.
Got your cash stashed
?
Having all of my supplies already (always have-always will) only saw a
need for one very important thing that I had overlooked.
Nobody else saw it since they were focusing on food, water, plywood,Coleman
goodies etc. They looked at me like I was nuts when I got to the checkout.
What was the one thing ? Tire repair equipment ! Yep. I bought two cases of
Fix-a-Flat, a radial plug kit and about 50 plugs.
Glass, metal, roofing nails, wood, you name it was everywhere on the roadways.
I used that all up and more over the following month. Get some!
Cars with automatic transmissions can not be push-started. Even if your battery
is fairly new, go buy yourself a top notch, deep cycle battery and install
it. The other one will make a good spare.You can also carry it with you and
use
the
deep cycle battery [at home] at night, running an inverter, to watch a television,
use a computer or whatever. One of my cabins runs all night (8-10 hours) with
television,
VCR, and
3-to-4 Compact fluorescent bulbs on a deep cycle battery that is solar-charged.
Belts. Repeat the above scenario and make sure you have tools in the car at
all times to change belts. If you don't know how and what tools you
need , then hire a mechanic
to teach you. Don't forget the jumper cables .
These are the basics. My kit is more extensive but I live in the middle of
nowhere in Central America (I've already bugged out) so I cant raid a junkyard
in case of an "event". Oh, and don't forget the guns. Pura Vida!
- Mr. Tico in Costa Rica
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Letter Re: Michigan's Upper Peninsula as a Retreat Locale
I am new to SurvivalBlog and have found it very interesting. I thought I would
comment on what it’s like living in the Upper Peninsula ("UP") of Michigan.
I built a 1,920 square foot log cabin on 20
acres
here, about
30
years ago. I see that you have recommended the UP as a possible retreat location
for people
in the eastern U.S.
I should give you a little personal background before I get started. I moved
to the UP several decades ago from southern Michigan. Most of my children were
born here and therefore are native Uoopers [or "Yoopers"] (not some
transplant Troll from under The Bridge). That is the Mackinac Bridge, pronounced
Mackinaw
as
if it had a “W” at the end, since the the “C” is silent.
Mackinac is a derivation of a Menomini or Ojibwe {Indian] word "Michilimackinac".
(A little trivia.)
I will tell you some of the good and the bad things living in the UP. Of course
good and bad are both a matter of opinion. I will start with the good things,
as I see them.
Living here in many ways is like living in 1958 instead of 2008. There is crime
and drugs but nothing like the urban or metropolitan areas of the country.
Most crimes are petty in nature. The people here are open and very friendly
to almost every one they meet. Most of the small towns like Munising, Manistique,
or Norway are all most the way they were in 1958, or for that matter in 1938.
You would have to be a native to know that there was any change at all. The
bigger towns like Marquette, Escanaba, Sault Ste. Marie and Iron Mountain have
shopping malls and all those big city things people like. One can live in dense
forests, in farming communities, in small towns (there are no real big cities
in the UP) or just in the country as I do. Or one could even live on an island
like Sugar Island or Drummond Island, perhaps Mackinac
Island [with no motorized vehicles allowed] is more your
taste? It is said that the UP is a sportsman’s paradise. There is fishing
in the Great Lakes, inland lakes and rivers. Wildlife abounds everywhere:
moose,
deer, black bear, wolves, coyotes, and even an occasional mountain lion. Hunting,
fishing and trapping are popular in the UP and I would estimate that 98% of
all adults own at least one firearm and know how to use them. In the winter
months
there is skiing downhill and cross country, snowmobile trails everywhere (used
by ATV riders in the summer), ice fishing, etc. Well you get the idea.
There are wild berries all over the place in the UP. A little anecdote: Back
in the 1980s my wife (at the time) and I were picking raspberries on
the power line right-of-way near where we lived. I was down in a little ravine
and she was up on the top of a hill not far away and we were talking a lot
not paying attention too much. I was eating at least a quarter of every thing
I picked. My truck was parked on top of the hill near her. She told me not
to eat so many berries, that I would get sick. I was ignoring those little
criticisms from her, when I smelled something kind of like a skunk but not
quite that bad. I asked her if she smelled a skunk. She said no, and said “I
told you that you would get sick eating all those berries”. I managed
to ignore that also. I moved over a little for more berries. Now these are
wiled berry bushes on where they cleared all the trees out to put power polls
in and to be able to drive along the line to check for problems. The berry
bushes were densely packed on both sides of the right-of-way just at the tree
line. I started picking the berries near the top of the bush and just then,
a big black head popped up, just on the other side of the bush not more then
6 feet away and looked straight at me. I was told that bears will eat almost
anything they can find, nuts, berries, garbage, garbage cans, gas grills, '73
Ford trucks, you name it. And at that moment I believed every word of it. After
the Black Bear got bored of scaring the stupid Sugar Beeter, he or she (I wasn’t
going to check) turned around and lumbered back into the woods from when’s
it came. I thought I could hear it snickering a little as it disappeared in
the woods. I composed myself, more or less and went up the hill and told my
wife it was time to go home and got in the truck and started it. She got in
and told me “I told you that you would get sick didn’t I?”.
She never believed me about the bear.
The bad things up here: I will start in the spring. Spring starts about the
middle of April at least most of the snow should be gone by then. I can get
into the woods and start cutting fire wood. Some time in May the Ticks are
out. In June the Mosquito’s and Black Flies and all the other vampire
bugs are out. I’m still cutting fire wood. It can start to snow any time
after the middle of October but if it snows it normally will not stick. Also
starting in October the flies start to congregate on the west side of the cabin
sunning themselves and looking for a snug place to get out of the cold. It’s
amazing how many of the little annoying things can find there way into my cabin.
Some time in November the snow is here for the winter. It depends where one
lives in the UP as to how much snow they get a year. About 250 inches give
or take each winter (yes that’s over 20 feet of snow). Now the snow does
not get that deep on the ground. Where I live it get’s about 3 feet to
4 feet deep, depending on the winter. That is because of compaction and melting
from the ground. If you live near Lake Superior more than that. However if
you live down in the banana belt along Lake Michigan, it is less than that.
It gets very cold in the winter, I’ve seen it get -25 below 0 with highs
at -9 or -10 below zero degrees Fahrenheit. and stay their for weeks on end.
The UP is the only place
I’ve been where you can have a blizzard when there is not a cloud in
the sky. That is "lake effect" snow. Lake Superior doesn’t
freeze over completely. With a little breeze out of the north, the very cold
dry
air picks
up moisture
off
the big lake and dumps it on the cold land. The stretch on M-28 between Marquette
and Munising gets closed sometimes because of the snow off the big lake. Now
combine "lake effect" snow and a true blizzard out of Canada, well
I hope you have all your firewood in and the pantry is full.
I have seen lots of people come up here thinking they could move a trailer
on to an acre or two and live off the land by hunting. It just doesn’t
work, along about January or February the snow gets so heavy the roof caves
in on them, some fun. In the winter the snow gets too deep for the deer to
forage so they yard up in the cedar swamps in big herds. Wolves and coyotes
stalk
the cedar swamps for there livelihood.
The growing season is short, that’s not to say you can’t have a
nice garden, you can but it’s a lot of work. Cutting firewood for the
six months of winter heating is hard work. More than the average neophyte (Sugar
Beeter) can put up with. This is a hard place to live. The people that live
here have the knowledge and skills needed to survive in this unique part of
the United States. A person or family doesn’t just come up here and camp
out in the woods and live off the land. If the insects don’t drive them
out of there minds, the white death of winter will kill them. I mean that literally,
winter is a white death for the unprepared. That is why a meltdown in the big
cities is not going to affect the UP with droves of refugees. And everybody
in the cities of Wisconsin and Michigan knows that, they're going to head south where
the living is easy.
But if you think you're tuff enough, good luck up here. - The Old Uooper
JWR Adds: One of our advertisers
is Richard Hendricksen. He
is a real estate agent that acts as a Buyer's Agent. He specializes in finding
U.P. properties
that are suitable for retreats. He knows the region very well and can give
advice
on everything from microclimates and wild game migration patterns to local
politics. I encourage
any readers
that
are
considering
the
U.P.
to contact Mr. Hendricksen
« Letter Re: Hunt Packs Available at Cabela's |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Survival is About Skills--Practice Makes Perfect
Mr Rawles,
You're regularly posting first hand stories about the need to test
gear. Imagine my surprise when my arrogance that that didn't apply
to me proved false! You really do need to test equipment and skills!
Unused tools (both physical and mental) are useless tools!
I store gas for my lawnmowers in two five gallon plastic containers. I figured
that I'd pour what was left in them into my car when I put the mowers away
for the winter. I know you always recommend being able to relocate more than
one tank of gas away, so I figured I'd keep them rotated and full, emptying
them into the car instead of bothering with fuel stabilizer. Lo and behold,
you can't just pour gas from these containers into a gas tank! Even with the
nifty built in nozzle gadget that makes it perfect for lawnmowers - it doesn't
fit in my car! I need to buy a long-stemmed funnel like the kind my dad's been
using for decades. Your readers should check their equipment and their gas
tanks for compatibility.
I also assumed I was good at building a fire from nothing because I was in
the Scouts "back in the day". Once again; unused skills deteriorate
and disappear. I've been building fires in my home and in my backyard with
big handfuls of crumpled newspaper. I thought I was skilled because I was
gluttonously using an overabundance of available resources. Tonight I tried
building a fire from a small handful of crumpled (and dry!) leaves. It turns
out that often leaves will just smolder. I managed to build up my fire using
two or three cotton ball sized pieces of newspaper instead of the six or
seven whole sheets I used to use. But in doing so I also discovered the small
pocketknife
I regularly carry is only useful in shaving off tinder - it's useless in
splitting logs for kindling. My bugout bag has several larger knives, but
now I will consider adding a hatchet (recommendations?).
I will also be making about a million fire
wicks out of leftover supplies from an entertaining bout of candle making
in my old apartment.
Finally, a note about teamwork and information. My wife is definitely coming
on board for the whole "Preparedness" mindset. She's started taking
a martial arts class (a real one; not cardio kick boxing or other useless courses),
we talk about what to do in case of emergencies, we've bought a small treasure
of gold and silver, etc. However, the other night we learned something very
valuable. We heard what she thought were gunshots (I think it might have been
people using up old fireworks - but I digress) and she went to bring the dog
inside. She brought with her an unwieldy lopper that I had left by the door.
As I saw her coming back in, I asked her why she didn't bring the pepper spray.
She replied that she didn't know where it was. Now, on your advice I bought
several cans to (pardon the pun) pepper around the house, including basement
and bugout bag. And I've told and I had shown her where they are. But she forgot. That's
another lesson: you might as well not even own any piece of equipment that
you forget about when it counts.
You can't possibly be too organized, you can't possibly rehearse too often,
and there's no such thing as being too prepared.
We all are sending well-wishes and prayers for the Memsahib. - C.
« Letter Re: HF/VHF/UHF Amateur Radio for Preppers |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Retreat Locale and Firearms Selection Questions from a Newbie Easterner
Jim,
I am a new reader of SurvivalBlog but I am already hooked. I realize that I
am woefully unprepared to defend and care for my family if and when TSHTF.
I live in New Jersey and commute to New York City every day, and work in finance.
After 9/11, when I lost several dear friends, I took some steps to prepare
for a
short
(several
days to a week) disruption or an attack. I purchased a generator, several hundred
MREs, bottled water, and iodine pills. I even applied for a firearm purchase
permit but never bought a weapon.
Working in the capital markets, I have see firsthand over the last
few month show how close we have come to a complete breakdown in the monetary
and payments
system.
As a person who is generally a free market advocate and non-interventionist
it troubles me deeply that the government has had to step in to try and salvage
the banking system. However, I can say that in the days before some of these
programs were announced, we were probably much closer than people think to
a severe systemic financial collapse. I saw firsthand the panic and fear that
prevailed on Wall Street in those few days, and it was real.
Hopefully we will be able to pull out of this current crisis. But in the spirit
of preparing for the worst, I realize that I have much to do in order to get
ready for TEOTWAWKI. So I do have a few questions that I hope you can answer.
While I am sure some of these have been answered for previous newbies, I would
greatly appreciate your opinion and advice.
What is your suggestion for a retreat location for someone living in New Jersey?
I have read your "Recommended
Retreat Areas" section and it looks
like most of us east of the Mississippi are in some trouble. However, I am
tied
to my
current
location in terms of my employment and extended family. I am relatively blessed
in terms of financial resources, so it is potentially feasible for me to purchase
an out of state second home to use as a retreat. I do worry about access in
a SHTF scenario.
Highways potentially clogged, gas in short supply, etc. Is a 2-to-3 day drive
by car or longer escape location feasible? There are relatively rural
areas within 2-5 hours by car that we could choose, but none approach the remoteness
most on this site seem to favor.
This also seems to be a common question but what about firearms? New Jersey
is quite restrictive. The permit I got after 9/11 expired so I recently reapplied
and
should get my new permit in a couple months. I am not a complete neophyte but
pretty close. I have hunted a few times with friends and have done some target
practice at the pistol range. I know I need training. I also fear that the
new administration may impose even more restrictive legislation limiting access
to firearms so I want to move relatively quickly in assembling what I need.
Here is what I am thinking:
handgun: there is no concealed carry in New Jersey so for home defense I am thinking
something on the larger side, maybe a S&W Night Guard in .357 Magnum? Or does
an
autoloader with a higher capacity (maximum 15 round magazines in New Jersey)
make
sense?
Maybe
the
SIG
P220 in .45 ACP?
.22 rifle Suggestions? Id like something I can also teach my son on (he is 7)
in a few years. What do you think of the US Survival .22LR? How big should I
go?
I don't think I'm going to need
something for very big game but who knows. Is a .308 sufficient or should I look
for something
heavier
like a .338 Lapua or a .30-06? Should I also have a tactical rifle? Remember
that New Jersey has a pretty broad definition of "assault rifles" that
are
banned.
Shotguns: Likely would like to have at least one "riotgun" type and
at least one for hunting. Suggestions?
Ammunition: How much is enough?I have seen that Cabela's sells reloaded/remanufactured
rounds in bulk. Are these a good deal or are factory rounds superior to the point
that the bulk reloads should not be considered?
Training: I am planning on taking several of the NRA courses that are available
in my area for each of the weapons types I purchase. I have read the glowing
reports on Front Sight and will try that as well if I can get the time. Any other
suggestions?
I know I have a lot to learn in many areas such as food gathering/storage and
basic survival. I have learned a lot from you already. I appreciate all you do
on this blog, Jim. You provide a great service.
God Bless. - S. in New Jersey
JWR Replies: You are in a difficult locale, but I quite regularly
get similar questions from
consulting clients in Washington DC, Baltimore, and New York City.
I recommend that if you can afford it, that you buy a rural retreat,
and stock it very well. If you prefer a warmer climate, then
I recommend eastern Tennessee. If you don't mind cold and snow, then consider
the Upper Peninsula
of Michigan. Pre-position 90% of of your tools and logistics at your retreat.
If you are worried about burglary, then rent a commercial storage space that
is
near
your
retreat.
As I've mentioned in blog many times, I recommend that you keep always enough
gas in cans on hand for one trip "Outta Dodge"--to get you
to your retreat. (This
ties in with the need to pre-position nearly everything at your retreat.)
In answer to your question on handguns: In New Jersey, your best bet is probably
either a Springfield Armory XD in .45 ACP
or perhaps a Glock Model 21 ( also .45 ACP.) BTW, you should take advantage
of Front Sight's Gun & Gear & Training
offer--that
includes essentially free XD pistol. BTW, low
cost firearms training is also available from the RWVA in the east and the
WRSA in the west.
In answer to your other questions:
>.22 rifle Suggestions? I'd like something I can also teach my son on (he
is 7) in a few years. What do you think of the US Survival .22LR?
The US Survival .22 LR--like all of it predecessors including the original
Armalite AR-7--has a tendency to jam. It also has a fairly rudimentary peep
sight that
in my opinion has an overly-large rear aperture. I recommend that you instead
buy a Rogue
Rifle Company Chipmunk .22
single shot rifle for your son.
Depending on his maturity, you can probably start training him with it under
very close supervision at
age
7. (The Chipmunk
is a tiny rifle. It is made to the minimum dimensions allowable under
Federal
law.)
For the rest of the family, buy a stainless
steel All-Weather Ruger 10/22. Once
your son is about 10 years old,
you can
buy a
spare stock
for
the
Ruger
and saw off about two inches from the butt to provide a shorter length of
pull, for
transitional
training. Slightly used "takeoff" standard birch wood stocks are readily
available
for
under $15 each,
since
Ruger
.22
rifles
are
often used as gun rebuild platforms, typically using fancy laminate target
stocks.
> How big should I go?...
The .308 Winchester will suffice for everything two-legged or four-legged in
North America with the exception of grizzly bears and moose.
>
Should I also have a tactical rifle?...
Keep an inexpensive .308 bolt action in New Jersey and .308 battle rifle (as
well all your magazines over 15 round capacity) in a wall cache at your retreat
in a
free
state. As previously noted in SurvivalBlog I
generally recommend the FAL, L1A1, HK91, AR-10 or M1A. And, FWIW, up until
a week ago, I would have also recommended waiting for the about-to-be-released
Kel-Tec
RFB .308 or the Rock
River Arms (RRA) LAR-8 .308 Caliber, in Mid-Length. However, in today's
market, beggars can't be choosers. Buy whatever .308 battle rifle you can find,
but be sure to line up at least eight spare magazines first.
(You don't want to be stick with a rifle with one magazine!)
>
Shotguns: Likely would like to have at least one "riotgun" type and
at least one for hunting. Suggestions?
Buy a Remington
870 Express 12 gauge Combo set. (These come with both a
bird barrel and riotgun barrel. It takes less than two minutes to switch
barrels. BTW, Mossberg
also produces a quite similar "Combo" set, that is very reasonably
priced. The only drawback is that the Mossberg 500 Combo's bright blued
steel is more prone to rust than the phosphate finish on the Remington
Express
models.
> Ammunition: How much is enough?
"Enough" is a subjective term, depending on the depth and duration
of the situation that you anticipate, how much bartering you plan to do, and
how much
trouble you expect to encounter.
(In an urban or suburban area, you might have to fire hundreds of
warning shots to repel looters. But here at the ranch, we are in the process
of filling at least five deer and elk tags this season, but we'll likely fire
less than 10
cartridges.) If anything, err on the side of larger quantities.
Any ammo that excess to your needs will be worth its weight in gold for barter
and
charity.
>...I have seen that Cabela's sells reloaded/remanufactured
rounds in bulk. Are these a good deal or are factory rounds superior
to the point that the bulk reloads should not be considered?
Bulk reloads are fine for target shooting but only can be depended on for
self defense shooting situations if they come from a reputable maker,
such as Black Hills
Ammunition.
« Letter Re: Deflation Possibly Followed by Mass Inflation? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: A Suggested Checklist for Preparedness Newbies
Here's a beginner's list I made for my [elderly] father today:
Food
{Brown pearl] rice does not store well. Neither does cooking oil so that needs to be fresh.
No, Crisco doesn't count.
Coconut oil would be your best bet.
Wheat berries - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Beans - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Mylar bags
Spices
Salt
Country Living grain mill
propane tanks, small stove and hoses to connect
freeze dried fruits, vegetables, eggs and meat if you can find them.
Water
500 gallons
of water [storage capacity. Rainwater catchment is a common practice
in Hawaii]
Water filter
Cooking
Cast Iron Cookware
Firearms
FN PS 90
10 PS 90 magazines
5.7 handgun
10 FN 5.7 handgun magazines
5.7 ammo
Training: Front Sight four day defensive
handgun course. (Note: eBay sometimes has
course certificates for $100!)
Body armor: Nick at BulletProofME.com
Medical
Personal medications
Augmentin antibiotic
Up to date dental work
Painkillers
Bandages
Iodine
Anti-fungal spray
Finances
$10,000 cash in small bills
100 one-ounce silver coins (GoldDealer.com or Tulving.com)
Transport
Gasoline in 5 gallon cans or better yet, this.
Gas stabilizer
Mountain bikes
Air pump
Miscellany
Flashlights
Rechargeable Batteries
Battery
charger
Hand held walkie talkies
Topographical map of your area
Spare eyeglasses
Shortwave radio
Home generated power
12 volt battery system
Good backpack
Good knife
Good compass
Good shoes
Bar soap
Toothbrushes
Dental floss
Toilet paper
Fishing kit
Salt licks
Connibear traps
Regards, - SF in Hawaii
JWR Adds: The following is based on the assumption that SF's
father also lives in Hawaii: Because of the 10 round magazine limit for handguns,
I recommend that Hawaiians purchase only large
bore
handguns for self defense--such
as .45
ACP.
Both the
Springfield
Armory XD .45 Compact or the Glock Model 30 would both be good choices. The "high
capacity" advantage of smaller caliber
handguns
is not available to civilians in Hawaii, so you might as well get a more potent
man stopper, given the arbitrary 10 round limitation.
« Letter Re: When Unprepared Folks Show Up on Your Doorstep |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Adapt to Survive, by Elizabeth B.
You are incredibly mistaken if you think you can store up enough to see you
through bad times. You are wrong, dead wrong. When I say store up, I’m
talking, food, provisions, tools, barter equipment, and whatever.
The key to survival will be adaptation, just like in nature. Those who survive
will be those who can readily adapt to a changing environment. I know many
of you are sitting on little mountains of barrels, cans, packages and feel
like you have an edge. Simply put, you will not be able to squirrel away enough.
What happens when the stash runs out?
I was shocked to read this week (October 31, 2008) when a SurvivalBlog reader
wrote:
“Is there a good book that you can recommend on food storage for someone
like me that is on a budget and wants to "do it myself”, but not go
so far as ‘grow it myself?’ ”
How long will the bad times last? Who knows? What will you do when the stash
runs out? Barter those silver and gold coins that no one can eat?
Survival skills depend on knowledge and practice. If you have children, take
them out of soccer and dance classes and immediately put them in Girl Scouts
or Boy Scouts. Look until you find a good troop or better yet, join up, take
the required training, and begin your own troop. You will influence more lives
than you can possibly imagine. You and your children will have outdoor living
experiences that will see them through the rest of their lives. Did you ever
cook your food over a wood campfire and lie on the ground scanning the night
sky for meteors with the smell of smoke and coyote yelps lingering in the air?
Scout troops teach children community living and cooperation, both critical
survival skills.
Read everything you can until you become familiar with survival concepts and
theory. Then you need to begin to practice, practicing daily. First of all,
move out of your apartment into a house. If you can’t afford to buy,
then you shouldn’t be storing food. Rent if you can’t buy. You
don’t have enough room to practice and store your supplies in an apartment,
no matter what anyone says.
Here is a short list of skills you and your loved ones need:
* Water: Harvesting, storage, filtration, sterilization
* Gardening: How to plant, save and store seed, make soil, propagate.
* Fire: Get rid of that propane tank and charcoal briquettes, practice
fire-starting
with a variety of materials that you find. Build many types of fires. Accumulate
a couple of iron items such as a good grill or tripod, dutch oven, lifters,
and work gloves … learn how to cook over coals, on a plank, in a box oven,
in a trench, in a hay box, in a tin can, in a rocket stove…know how to
dry and smoke … know how to build a fire anywhere on any surface and how
to improvise safe surfaces. Buy as many matches as you can. Matches are an excellent
storage item. They’ll never go bad and will be a high demand item.
* Shelter: Practice making shelters from as many materials you find on
hand for a variety of conditions. Sleep outside in different weather as
often as you can. You’ll grow to love it and will discover the night
sky.
* Solar cooking. Make solar cookers from boxes, aluminum foil, glass jars. Practice,
practice, practice throughout the changing seasons
* Tools: Know how to clean, sharpen, store tools; get very familiar with
your ax and saw and hammer and pliers. Feel free to stock up on nails and screws
and wire.
* Cooking: Unfortunately, the current generation of young adults really
knows practically nothing about tasty and thrifty food preparation. This is easily
remedied. You eat multiple times a day. Look on each meal as a practice event.
If you have children, shut down the smorgasbord of choices for each picky eater.
Everyone needs to know how to eat beans and rice with a few additions such as
meat for flavoring, herbs and spices to make each meal new and palatable. Make
soup a daily fare. It won’t matter if you have thousands of dollars of
food stored if it is not familiar foods that people enjoy. There is no SPAM or
tuna in my storage. I won’t eat SPAM, and I’m morally opposed to
eating tuna due to depletion of our oceans and crashing fish populations. Learn
to eat more simply now, today. Eat each meal at home, don’t eat out. Practice
serving vegetarian meals at least once a day. Terrific cookbooks like Apocalypse
Chow and Backpacker's Recipes can point you in the right direction.
Can
you
bake
bread in a dutch oven? Can you make pasta with wheat and a pasta machine?
* Food. I saved this topic for last because it is so huge. First, buy some sturdy
gardening tools from Craig's
List. The older ones are better. Read up, talk
to gardeners, go to free community gardening events, and begin now, yesterday
was already getting very, very late to learn this skill. Food is going to be
much more important than just stashing and hoarding. Real freedom comes from
being
responsible for your own food. When you are out of the apartment, you’ll
be able to prepare for your chickens. True, you might not be able to house them
right now due to city or HOA regulations,
but the time will come. Be ready for your little chicks and their fabulous eggs.
You need to plant fruit trees specific
to your zone which will thrive. It takes three years or so for fruit production.
In my incredibly tiny area I have pomegranate, olive, apples, figs, blackberry,
strawberries, and bananas. Look on every square inch of your yard as an opportunity
for food supply. Practice container gardening -- you never know. Composting and
mulching cannot be overstated or overlooked. You should never throw another scrap
of fruit or vegetable away again. Get a dog for the other food scraps, friendship,
and protection. Invite wild birds into your garden. Learn what the sun requirements
are for specific plants and what your garden can supply. Include edible native
plants that you know you can serve in a pinch. I have mesquite, roses, cacti,
lilies, and edible flowers. Learn to eat a huge variety of foods. Learn to prepare
a huge variety of tasty foods. This will truly be the key to survival in the
future. My Great Depression-era father thought that pickled pig’s feet,
cornbread crumbled into buttermilk, pinto beans with cornbread, and greens were
some of
life’s greatest pleasures. Picky eaters will not be survivors. Complainers
will not be survivors.
Finally, forget the batteries. They won’t last forever and you can’t
buy/store enough for the rest of your life. You are contributing to the toxic
waste stream by buying batteries. If you just insist on having a flashlight,
then go buy a case of Faraday
flashlights that work on the principal of magnetic
induction. A radio is actually a terrific idea. Get a hand crank dynamo or solar
radio. Like I said, ditch the battery idea. Prepare to adapt to a new life. [JWR
Adds: Be warned that most of the Chinese-made "dynamo" hand crank radios
on
the
market
are
very flimsy and
are unlikely to last more than a month of daily use. I recommend the BayGen
radios,
made
in South Africa. They are built to last.]
Critical issues such as waste removal, weapons, spirituality, residual recycling,
and community need to be in the back of your mind, but that is for another essay.
As you reach for an item in the store, ask yourself this question: What if I
could not buy this today or ever again, would I miss it? What could I use instead?
Can I do without this today and forever? Rethink your lifestyle and prepare for
another test of adaptability that may be thrown at humanity. Throughout time,
we have been tested whether it has been by ice ages, wars, famine, or plague.
If you can adapt, you can survive.
I’m only speaking in generalities because it is up to you to adapt to
survive. You need to find out the information for yourself and think of new ways
to live.
Survival is not only about surviving, it is about living and enjoying life. It’s
impossible to teach someone everything there is to know, at some point you have
to depend on yourself. Check YouTube.com for endless videos on any subject in
the world. I’ve improved my vegetable growing methods by learning from
experts on YouTube. In the end, your existence will depend on your own mind
and your own heart and your own hands.
[JWR Adds: While Elizabeth has made some excellent points,
she has overstated her case for adaptation. There
are some critical uses for both propane tanks and rechargeable batteries that
justify their inclusion
in preparedness
planning.
Granted, they represent finite supplies. But I'd rather have them in
reserve for a critical situation and not need them. The inverse is not appealing.
(Needing them, but not having them.) Imagine if you needed to conduct impromptu
surgery. Would you prefer to perform a surgery by the light of fat oil lamps?
I disagree with her assertion about not storing extra tools. Tools will be
worth their weight in gold. A lot of things can be improvised and adapted,
but high
quality tools--especially those
with
tight
tolerances cannot. You
can probably improvise a plow, but you cannot improvise a Unimat lathe. And
consider this: With a Unimat lathe (in properly trained hands) and
given enough high speed steel stock you can build just about any tool
including
another Unimat lathe. Thus
a "stored" tool can be eminently useful for "adaptation."
Lastly, keep in mind that preparing to survive in a warm southwestern climate
is considerably different than in cloudy, cold northern climes. The colder
the
climate, the
deeper the larder that you'll need. (Since growing seasons are short, and in
some years with early frosts you will have hardly any garden yield. Stored
fuel (firewood, coal, et cetera) is similarly important in cold climates.
There may
come a
year when you cannot cut a fresh supply of firewood--say you break a leg or
have a major illness. That is why it is very important to have several years
worth of firewood on hand.]
« Letter Re: Another SurvivalBlog Reader's Experience at Front Sight |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Getting Adult Family Members Home in Times of Crisis
Greetings, Mr. Rawles,
I need advice and I trust you implicitly in survival matters. Here's my issue:
I live in the country north of Tampa, Florida. Good dirt, well water (and well
bucket), dogs, garden, silver coins stashed away. We are ready for whatever
happens.
My 27 year old daughter lives in Austin, Texas. We have discussed her bugging
out to come home, or to her grandmother's home in Southwestern Alabama. She
is preparing her bugout pack today, and waiting to hear from me to tell her
to come
home.
My question is this: At what point do I tell her to head home? What will I
see or read that will make me pull the trigger to put this girl on the road?
How will I know when it's time, and allow enough time for her to get as far
as possible in her car?
I would really rather have her in Florida with me, but her grandmother is much
closer, and also in the country. If I want my daughter here, with me, how much
time....
I guess that's my question - how much time do you think we have, it's now Friday
at 2:30, and the market is about to drop below 8,000. How much time before
the meltdown? At what state of preparedness should I have my kid??
Please help. Thank you for your fabulous work. - Terri L.
JWR Replies: First let me say I expect this to be a slow
slide. But also let me say that I am not a prophet. I am all too human. For
example, like a lot of people I got a lot more motivated by Y2K than
the situation warranted.
It is probably not yet the time to call your daughter home--not
unless she
would
like to move
back
to
Florida,
anyway.You might want to discuss this with her at length. A lot of it might
revolve around her work situation: Can she take a leave of absence from her
work, and
then
return to Texas if things "blow
over"?
Does she have vacation on the books that she can "burn"?
Regardless, advise her to henceforth always keep
her car's tank at least 3/4 full whenever returning to her home at the end
of the day.
She should probably now store some full five gallon gas cans, since the
trip will require a couple of re-fills. Does she have a trailer for her vehicle?
Perhaps she
can store some gas with your relatives in Alabama, as a halfway re-fill point.
For now, just monitor
the news closely. See: Mark 13:32, KJV. Pray fervently. Our nation needs
it.
« Note from JWR: |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: Getting Adult Family Members Home in Times of Crisis
Greetings, Mr. Rawles,
I need advice and I trust you implicitly in survival matters. Here's my issue:
I live in the country north of Tampa, Florida. Good dirt, well water (and well
bucket), dogs, garden, silver coins stashed away. We are ready for whatever
happens.
My 27 year old daughter lives in Austin, Texas. We have discussed her bugging
out to come home, or to her grandmother's home in Southwestern Alabama. She
is preparing her bugout pack today, and waiting to hear from me to tell her
to come
home.
My question is this: At what point do I tell her to head home? What will I
see or read that will make me pull the trigger to put this girl on the road?
How will I know when it's time, and allow enough time for her to get as far
as possible in her car?
I would really rather have her in Florida with me, but her grandmother is much
closer, and also in the country. If I want my daughter here, with me, how much
time....
I guess that's my question - how much time do you think we have, it's now Friday
at 2:30, and the market is about to drop below 8,000. How much time before
the meltdown? At what state of preparedness should I have my kid??
Please help. Thank you for your fabulous work. - Terri L.
JWR Replies: First let me say I expect this to be a slow
slide. But also let me say that I am not a prophet. I am all too human. For
example, like a lot of people I got a lot more motivated by Y2K than
the situation warranted.
It is probably not yet the time to call your daughter home--not
unless she
would
like to move
back
to
Florida,
anyway.You might want to discuss this with her at length. A lot of it might
revolve around her work situation: Can she take a leave of absence from her
work, and
then
return to Texas if things "blow
over"?
Does she have vacation on the books that she can "burn"?
Regardless, advise her to henceforth always keep
her car's tank at least 3/4 full whenever returning to her home at the end
of the day.
She should probably now store some full five gallon gas cans, since the
trip will require a couple of re-fills. Does she have a trailer for her vehicle?
Perhaps she
can store some gas with your relatives in Alabama, as a halfway re-fill point.
For now, just monitor
the news closely. See: Mark 13:32, KJV. Pray fervently. Our nation needs
it.
« Letter Re: Saving Your Life and Saving Your Relationships--Don't Drive Your Loved Ones Away |Main| Note from JWR: »
Replace Your FUD with Preparedness Action--a Pre-Crash "D" List
All of the recent economic news may be overwhelming to some. This
has left many people virtually petrified by Fear, Uncertainty, and
Doubt (FUD). Don't
be a proverbial "deer in the headlights." I strongly
encourage you get past your anxiety uncertainty and instead of sitting around
glued to CNN, wringing your hands and saying "ain't it awful". Replace that
angst with action. Get
busy preparing. Here is my suggested Crash Countdown "D"
List, for folks that are already fairly well-prepared:
1.) De-Hummelize
Sell off any collectibles that are not family heirlooms. The worst offenders
here are the mass produced "limited edition" Hummel figurines, Beanie
Babies and those collector plates from umpteen artists. Because I've mentioned
this, please don't think that I'm a misogynist.
Men can
be just as bad about acquiring trinkets! They are just manly trinkets.
Far too many men have gun vaults chock full of
"commemorative edition" guns with engraving and gold inlay that
they would never dream of shOoting, for fear that their collector value would
be diminished.
I most strongly recommend that you sell off those guns and replace them with
truly practical ones .These days, I lean toward stainless steel guns with synthetic
stocks, because of their tremendous longevity.and resistance to corrosion.
By selling off your toys and trinkets, you will be A.) clearing
space for important logistics, and B.) generating
cash to help purchase those same logistics. Trinket items have a ready market
with eBay, especially this time of year, as people are shopping for Christmas
gifts. Take nice crisp photos, start most of your items at a penny, and make
sure that you charge enough to cover your postage and tracking costs.
2.) Dumpster Dive
Watch your local Craig's
List like a hawk. It is not unusual to find people giving away or selling
a ridiculously low prices dozens of heavy duty canning jars, hand-crank meat
grinders, chest freezers, shelving,
and poultry brooder, horse tack, and so forth. I've even found running generators
available free for the asking. (You haul.)
Mark your calendar for both community yard sales and the next time that your
garbage collection service offers an "unlimited curbside pickup" day.
Hook up your trailer the evening before, and see what you can find that is
free for the taking. (Consult your local ordinances first, of course.) We've
found lots of practical items that were still perfectly serviceable, such as
rabbit cages, brooms, canes, geriatric walkers, and galvanized wash tubs ("gut
buckets") set out on the curb. It would be a shame to see useful item
send up in a landfill.
3.) De-Procrastinate.
If you have been putting off any dental work, elective
surgery, vehicle repairs, or getting new lenses for your eyeglasses, then start making
appointments!
4.) Dump Your Dollars
Roll over your 401(k) and/or IRA into a gold IRA, available
from through Swiss
America Trading Company.
5.) Double-Up Your Staple Goods Shopping
Double up your staple groceries shopping. By doing so consistently, you will
rapidly build up a supply of canned good. Make sure you mark the date of purchase
on the top of each can with a permanent marker (such as a Sharpie pen), and
put the most recently purchased cans at the back of the shelf . These are the
essential points of "first-in, first-out" (FIFO) rotation.
6.) Divert Your Expenses
Cut
out needless expenses, so that you can divert that cash into preparedness.
Pare down your expenditures on movies and eating out. But don't go overboard
and make yourself (or your spouse and kids) miserable. OBTW, here is an example:
The Memsahib's sister found that she could skip Starbucks, and make herself
an
awesome Vanilla
Latte
at a 7-11 store, for less than half the price. Do comparison pricing. Is
a NetFlix subscription less expensive than a cable movie package? Do you
really have
the time to watch that much television, anyway? I'm not say to do without
life's little pleasures. I'm just saying that there are some less expensive
alternatives.
7.) Door-to-Door Introductions
Get to know your neighbors. Go door to door, if need be. Remind folks who
you are. Connect names to faces. Make a list of phone numbers and e-mail addresses.
Without being too pushy, quiz them a bit if they are "ready fort he next big
storm". Find out if any of them have
prior
military
experience,
or
advanced
medical
skills.
But
of course don't volunteer too much information about yourself. It is not wise
to brand yourself at he neighborhood Whackamo.
8.) Drums, Cans, and Fuel Tanks
Top off your supplies of gasoline, diesel, and kerosene. Add fuel stabilizer
and antibacterials (such as Pri-G and Pri-D), as needed.
9.) Detailed Contingency Plans and Packing Lists
Contact family and friends, and agree on contingency plans that you'll follow,
even if the telephone system and e-mail become inoperative. If any relatives
are planning to join you at your retreat when TSHTF, then
make sure they know exactly what
they will need to pack. They may be able to make only one trip there, so they'll
have to make it
count. (they need to have appropriate winter clothing, gloves, boots, gardening
tools, bedding, and so forth to be productive at your retreat.
« From FerFAL in Argentina: A US Crash that Will Parallel Argentina's? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Some Practical Notes on Third World Living
Jim,
As this is not a competition entry, it has not been reviewed by an outside
set of eyes yet, and I'm sure its kind of disorganized, but this is some
info about third world life, as I can see it here, after things
stabilize.
My wife is from Peru. She was born during the Peruvian hyperinflation and transition
to its next fiat currency, the Nuevo Sol. (Yeah, we're young whippersnappers)
She recently started to help out in getting ready. What helped her was comparing
the current economic climate here to Peru. This allowed her to correlate things
that occur in her former patria with our situation. She is a source of info
on the Third world medium sized city way of life.
In Third world Peru, everyone cooks with propane camp stoves, with big seven
gallon bottles. There is no space built for an American style range, even
in
nice
houses. All water is boiled before ingestion, except [commercially] bottled
water. Trucks come with semi-clean water and people line up to fill up their
buckets
for
washing and drinking. (after boiling) Hopefully you have a big tank on your
roof to
gravity feed it through your pipes, as the power goes out regularly, and your
personal well and pump wont work.
Everyone had bars on every window and door. Houses not made of cement block
are broken into through the walls. They're also too cheap/poor to put enough
steel in the buildings, so they fall down easily in earthquakes. Re-bar is
[used] only in the corners. Nobody has an exposed to the street yard. A courtyard
inside
larger places is the norm, off street parking, if you can afford a vehicle,
is a must, or you wont be parking anything soon. Inyokern told me this concept:
When things go really sour, everyone steals everything so often that everyone
ends up with the same trash that nobody wants to steal anymore. e.g. I have
a nice bike, it gets stolen, I get a new bike but not as nice as the first,
it gets stolen, I buy the worst looking bike I can find. It stays. This is
very true. People with nice hats walk around with a hand on their head. Political
corruption is the norm. Most any government official can be
bought for a couple hundred nuevo sols. Farmers carry guns. People
walk on your roof at night.
Just about everyone is self employed. Selling food in the streets, tricycle
and moto-taxis, home based Liquor stores, etc. Often if you sell higher "dollar" stuff,
your customers don't even come in your building, money and product are exchanged
though the door bars. Keyed locks on both sides. There is no such thing as
a big box store. Even disposable diapers are bought one at a time.
People wear sandals
called yanki. These are said to be made out of used car tires,
but most tires I know of are steel belted, and you can't cut that with a knife.
My two
pair are made
from rubber mining belt I think, as the tread pattern is cut by hand. The poor
wear them, and they supposedly last a loooooong time.
In Peru, the power goes out all the time. Candles are common. People don't
stock up there, the stores I guess have sufficient on hand to handle the outages
and subsequent candle runs. The stores here are obviously not prepared for
that.
Traffic in her small town is nearly non existent, but traffic in Lima is suicidal.
Regards, - Tantalum Tom
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| From FerFAL in Argentina: A US Crash that Will Parallel Argentina's? »
Letter Re: AVGAS as an Alternative Source of Gasoline During Spot Shortages
James,
I’m sort of reluctant to share this because, well, I might need to do
it someday and its value is in the fact that most people don’t know it.
During Hurricane Ike my uncle, who lives in Houston, acquired use of a generator.
That’s an interesting story in itself so I’ll divert for a second
and elaborate: He didn’t own a generator but his next door neighbor did.
Unfortunately, the neighbor had never run the generator and when they needed
it, it wouldn’t start. My uncle is a trained mechanic (former career)
and was able to fix it. In return for his help, the neighbor allowed my uncle
to run an extension cord over to his house to keep the fridge and freezer going.
This underscores the importance of having practical skills. Even if you can’t
afford to store a lot of tangibles, having valuable skills can allow you to
barter work for the things you need. I know you’ve said that a million
times. Well there’s a shining example of the truth in it.
Back to the point I wanted to make: They didn’t have enough gas
for the generator and quickly ran out. The stations were out, and even if they
had gas, there was no power to pump it. So… My uncle is also a private
pilot and flies out of a local general aviation airport. Almost all public
airports sell AVGAS,
[(aviation gasoline), one grade of] which is just highly refined 100 octane
gasoline. It works fine in both cars and equipment [such as generators]. Nobody
was flying in or out, which
left the airport well stocked with gas and apparently, they also had a way
to pump it. He drove up there and bought all he wanted. The only people who
thought to buy avgas were other pilots. They bought all they could use. No
lines, no competition, no fighting.
I’m not suggesting this as an alternative to keep a sufficient supply
of fuel on hand. But it’s an additional resource if your supply runs
out. As I read about the gas shortages in the southeast (right now), all I
can think is that there are probably dozens if not hundreds of pilots gassing
their cars up with avgas… and doing it very quietly. Best, - Matt R.
JWR Replies: Thanks for that reminder. (Using AVGAS in ground
vehicles has been mentioned a few times in the blog.) Just keep in mind that
there could be road
tax
issues,
at least in most English-speaking
countries. Also, most AVGAS (such as 100LL), is made in leaded formulations and
those are not compatible for use with many of the newer vehicles that have
catalytic
converters. (Since leaded formulations quickly degrade catalytic
converters.)
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Letter Re: Advice on Fuel Drums and Fuel Transfer Pumps?
Jim:
Do you have any idea where I can get a 50 gallon fuel drum with a manual
pump like
the one that your previous writer discussed? - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: You should first consult your local fire code,
for capacity limits. This is generally not a problem outside of city limits,
but laws vary widely. Needless to say, you
should store any fuel cans or drums in a detached storage
shed that is away from your house, not in an attached garage!
In North America, the fuel drums that the reader mentioned are usually made
in 55 gallon capacity. Your local fuel distributor should have new ones, or
you
can
scrounge
used
clean ones
locally if you post a query on Craig's
List. The fuel-rated pumps are often D-handle
design, like these.
Again, used ones are less expensive.
Or, of course you could also use a 12
VDC electric fuel transfer pump, like the ones that I make. (OBTW, every
family should keep one of these pumps handy.)
Unless you are certain that you will be using the fuel within a few weeks,
be sure
to se
stabilizer, such as Pri-G.
It is best to buy winter-formulated gas, and rotate it annually.
(Also in winter.) This is because winter gas has extra butane added, o aid cold
weather starting. This formulation extends the storage life of gasoline.
Drums that are 20 gallons or smaller can be moved with a standard dolly and
lifted off a pickup tailgate by two men. But moving anything larger requires
special handling equipment, and is a back ache waiting to happen. Filling (or
re-filling) a large drum that is kept at
home can best be accomplished discreetly by using your vehicle's fuel tank
and a 12 VDC fuel
transfer
pump. Just make several trips over the period of a week, and it won't be noticeable.
Buy the materials for camouflaging your fuel drum(s) in advance. I generally
recommend scrounging an appliance box (such as a small refrigerator box) so
that the drum won't
be noticed by
visiting workmen or meter readers. Or you could build a false wall at the end
of a long shed. One other alternative is to use a "hide
in plain sight" (HIPS) approach. This might be to re-paint the drum white,
with herbicide
markings. This won't look too out of place for drum up to 30 gallon capacity
stored in the corner of a gardening shed. You can also leave a full two-gallon
lawnmower
gas can
in the same shed, as "bait" for burglars, to distract their attention.
Re-painting a fuel drum is a fun and creative family stencil cutting and painting
project.
« Letter Re: Home Canning and Stocking Up |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: My Preparedness Measures Pay Off During Fuel Shortage
Mr Rawles
You mentioned the current gasoline shortage in the southeast. The local news
media reported that 70% of the gas stations are empty and have been for three
days. To me it seems closer to 95%. Here is example: In south Nashville,
there is a major road called Nolensville Road. In a five mile mile stretch
from Thompson Lane
to Old Hickory Boulevard there are 26 gas stations. Not one of them has
had gas for several days. Within a two mile radius of that stretch of road
there are
55,000
residents.
That is a lot of people without gas. There have been fistfights at some of
the gas stations that have gas, but that is not being reported on the local
news.
As an enthusiastic SurvivalBlog reader for the past two years, I am not worried
because I am very prepared. For example, I keep 100 gallons as my bug out supply
to reach my retreat. In fact, I only need 10 gallons to get both of my cars
to
the retreat.
I think my wife finally seen the light about being prepared. She had always
looked a little strange at me when I would rotate my gas supply every six months.
There have been times that she thought I was a little nuts. But there was a
big smile on her face when I drug out those 5 gallon cans to filled her tank
up yesterday. I was also able to give 10 gallons to my neighbor--who is a single
mother and a school teacher--so she could go to work. Thank You, - Mike M.
in Tennessee
« A Girl Scout Troop Leader Wants to Get Her Girls Prepared |Main| Letter Re: Home Canning and Stocking Up »
Letter Re: My Hurricane Ike Experience
Dear Mr. Rawles,
First of all, my heart goes out to all those who truly suffered with loss of
life or property as a result of Hurricane Ike. I only had the minor inconvenience
of being without electricity in Houston for five days. (There are still over
one million in Houston and the surrounding area without power.) So I had a
taste of what it is like to be off-grid and learned a few things to share with
your readers. It seems a lot of people here had generators which burn lots
of precious gasoline. But after a few days the gasoline runs out. We toughed
it out. I did have small camping-type battery powered fans and several flashlights
but can't imagine what we'd do in a situation without power for the long term.
You can have only so many batteries and then what? We had water drawn in bath
tub to use for flushing toilet, as water plants use electricity to pump water.
Also had many frozen plastic milk jugs in freezer and big igloo to keep some
things cold for a couple of days. Ice was very hard to come by. Grocery stores
were closed for a couple of days and there were lines just to get into the
stores when they did open. They let in a few people at a time for crowd control.
I was lucky to have my nonperishable food stockpile. Remember to have extras
for relatives. Gas stations were slow to reopen and had hours to wait when
they did open. (Many buying gas for their generators). We had full tanks in
advance of the storm. One important item we used was the car charger for the
cell phone. Be sure to have one that fits your current phone model. Also, many
don't realize that cordless land line phones use electricity so you need to
have a standard corded phone (which I had) if you want to even find out if
your land-line works. To heat water for coffee we used sterno called Canned
Heat and it worked very well. I know this is merely a temporary solution to
heating. I told my husband recently that I wanted to buy a camp stove and now
he may agree with me. And of course no television or computer which is really
tough. I used my television band radio a lot to get information.
I am now more afraid than ever of what it is going to be like if the power
goes off frequently or stays off in a worse-case scenario. Luckily I didn't
see civil unrest, but what if power stayed off longer? If there was any way,
I would move out of the city. Since I can't leave, I will continue to prepare
the best I can. Please continue to remember the trapped-in-the-city dwellers
when you post ideas for survival. I think we need the most help. Thanks for
all you do, - Nancy B.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Recommendation for the Cool Tools Web Site »
Three Letters Re: Tropical Storm Ike's Devastation Works its Way North to Ohio
Hello Jim,
This note is in reference to the letter from Melanie and Rick in
Columbus about the woman who never thought of using the grill to cook. I had
a similar experience with my mother-in-law. While we had power and water, she
had lost hers. I offered to bring buckets of water to her house so she could
manually refill the toilet tank to flush with(she has septic).
Not only did she not think of that, she couldn't understand the concept. She
ended up going to a hotel for a couple of days. People like this will not last
long in a prolonged crisis. Just goes to show the most critical piece of gear
is your brain and knowledge. Take care, - Jeff in Ohio
Hi Jim,
I just finished reading Melanie and Rick's letter and what they faced during
their 'hurricane' event in Columbus. The conditions they experienced sound
very similar to what I related to you was occurring in Cincinnati a few days
ago. I just wanted to make a few comments regarding the need for self-defense
and owning a gun to do so. Rick was concerned about someone who was driving
by coming back to 'liberate' his generator. That would concern me too, so here
are a couple of my thoughts on the situation. First, it is a good idea to conceal
the fact that you have power when the rest of your neighbors don't and it's
pretty obvious at night. So close the blinds, black out the windows and do
what you can to conceal the fact that you have power. Second, do what you can
to muffle the sound of your generator with sound baffles or a soundproof enclosure.
Third, "nail it down" and secure it as Rick did with chains and locks.
Now to the more important issue, protecting the generator using deadly force.
A couple of years ago when concealed carry was first permitted in Ohio, I completed
the required course to get my permit. While not a lawyer, I do remember the
most important lesson taught regarding the law in Ohio is this; you can use
a firearm to protect human life, but you may not use a firearm to protect private
property. So to Rick's point, if he did have a gun and used it to protect his
generator from a would be thief and actually injured or killed them during
the event, he could be prosecuted should he cause injury or death to the intruder.
It does go without saying however, if Rick was threatened and feared for his
life or the life of someone in his family while and intruder was trying to
steal the generator, he could defend his or their life with deadly force. Personally,
I always feel my life is in immediate danger anytime someone invades my home,
regardless of their intentions, but simply threatening someone with bodily
harm using a firearm is also currently illegal and depending upon the circumstances
and the court and lawyers involved, one could potentially face some time in
state provided accommodations. There have been a few cases reported where people
defended their property by shooting a fleeing intruder in the back while trying
to escape and were found guilty of assault with a deadly weapon. For someone
to be attacking you they must be facing you. However, one could certainly detain
the intruder for the police if the police could be successfully contacted (communications/availability
might be an issue) and would actually show up to make an arrest.
With this said, I believe everyone should own and trained to safely use a firearm(s).
When the defecation impacts the rotating oscillator the laws may not change,
but the circumstances will definitely change for the worst...so when you have
only seconds to make that life-or-death decision you will be more likely to
successfully do so while waiting for the cops are just minutes, hours or even
days away!
It is essential to be prepared for the worst, but hope - and more importantly,
pray for the best. - Larry in Cincinnati
Sir:
I am an ex-cop, who served in St. Tammany Parish, just above New Orleans.
(On the other side of Lake Pontchartrain). I was there during [Hurricane] Katrina.
Believe me when I say I have many stories to tell, and I am sure I will,
eventually.
However, I have been lurking on your web site for a while, and I had to comment
in a recent post.
The people in Ohio who almost had their generator stolen made me remember a
looter we had in Post-Katrina St. Tammany Parish. He would bring a lawn mower
in the middle of the night, turned on and throttled down, to your house. He
would put it near the generator, and over the course of 10 or so minutes, throttle
it up. Then he would simply turn off the generator and trundle away with it,
leaving a similar noise behind. The cold air from air conditioning would last
long enough for his get-away. If I remember correctly, he stole about 36 generators
before being caught.
We even had a gennie stolen from the Sheriff's LEC (Law Enforcement Complex),
three nights after Katrina. And one of the jail's large generators was given
to the hospital when theirs died. Essentially, hide them, do not use them at
night if you can avoid it, and think about putting a muffler on it to hide
the sound. And buy a gun.
Any questions? Thanks, - Joshua
« Letter Re: Tropical Storm Ike's Devastation Works its Way North to Ohio |Main| Letter Re: Silver Canadian Leaf Bullion Coins »
Letter Re: A Recent Gasoline Shortage Underscores the Need to Be Low Profile
Sir:
I’ve been a reader of your site for only about a year and consider
myself a beginner-level survivalist. I’ve got the mindset and start of
some basic short-term survival gear and knowledge, but haven’t been able
to convince the wife to go all out yet. A few months ago, you had posted an
article
about keeping your level of preparedness secret from neighbors and I wasn’t
sure why until recently. I live in Middle Tennessee, and although we are hundreds
of miles away from Hurricane Ike, we experienced a short run on gas and spike
in prices. Probably close to a quarter of the gas stations in the city simply
ran out. From past experience, I had already purchased a 50-gallon drum with
manual pump (which I had filled in July), and I had three 5-gallon jugs that
I used to fill up the day before [the hurricane's] landfall. I could easily
make that last for a month even without changing my driving habits as long
as there
is
electricity
and I don’t have to generate. Plenty of time for capacity to return to
normal.
Not only did I get some evil looks while filling up at the
pump [in July], but I was also scrutinized at work by a few people that I had
told about my “cache.” Most
seemed to think I was the reason for the shortage (or a part of it.)
And while I agree that a hype can fuel a shortage, a shortage is still a shortage.
My
personal preparedness plays such a miniscule role in the big picture. But the
comments are enough to have made me learn my lesson. If 65 gallons of gas is
enough for people to question my intentions, then what would they say if they
discovered a much larger level or preparedness and the problem was much worse?
Suddenly
I’m not the guy trying to survive -- I’m the stingy hoarder who
won’t share with people in need and in some way contributed to the shortage.
Thanks for all you do. - Wes B.
JWR Replies: In my opinion, the modern American citizenry
has been badly misinformed by the mass media about what constitutes "hoarding." By
filling your gas drum and cans several months ago, you did not contribute to
a shortage
of fuel in
the present day. In normal times, chains of supply are continuously replenished.
By buying and
storing supplies well in advance, you actually helped to alleviate the
current short-term supply disruption. By having a pre-existing stockpile, you
represent one
less motorist
queuing up at the gas station. The same logic applies to any other shortage.
It is only people that attempt to buy a disproportionately large supply during a
crisis that could legitimately be called "hoarders." But
people in your category--that bought far in advance--are not part
of the problem.
In fact,
by having extra on hand, you can dispense charity, which makes you part of the
solution.
Maintaining a low profile is just common sense. The "need
to know" rule-- that
was constantly drummed into me when I was in the intelligence community--is
time-proven. There are great advantages in being circumspect.
I enjoy giving charitably. But there is no
reason why it has to be done with a high profile in the midst of a natural
disaster or other crisis. By anonymously leaving parcels on doorsteps or by
using an intermediary--such as your local church--you are far less likely to
attract
unwanted attention
from either government officials or members of your community with a twisted
sense
of ethics.
The other reason for being secretive about charity is Biblical: In Matthew
6:3 (King James Version) we are taught: "But when thou doest alms, let
not thy left
hand
know
what thy right hand doeth." Essentially, this means that when giving
charitably, we should do it without any fanfare, lest it be a source of pride.
Give generously,
but do so very quietly.
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Letter Re: Some Thoughts on Fuel Conservation WTSHTF
Jim:
To follow-up on my last e-mail, here are some random thoughts that I'd like
to share on fuel conservation, for when the Schumer Hits the Fan (WTSHTF):
Water Pasteurization Indicators (WAPIs) - Often used in the Third World
to save fuel and time when treating drinking water. Water that is heated to
149 degrees for a short time is free from living microbes. Water does not have
to be boiled for 10 minutes. A WAPI is a simple, small and low cost tube with
a special soy wax that can show that water has reached a safe Pasteurization
temperature. These are available from SolarCooking.org.
(By
the way, they also several nice solar oven designs.)
Solar ovens and Solar Showers - For cooking, water Pasteurization, and hot
water for hygiene needs. There is also a "solar puddle" design available
on the Internet for large scale water Pasteurization.
Oven and Meat Thermometers - Prevents waste of fuel [and nutritive value]
by cooking foods to higher temperatures than necessary.
Pot Cozys - These are insulated wraps for cooking pots. You heat the pot and
contents to a desired temperature and then set the pot off to the side, wrapped
in a pot cozy. Thus insulated, the food continues to cook until done. [JWR
Adds: For more on this topic, see KBF's
article in SurvivalBlog on Thermos cooking.]
Reflective Wind Shields - When used for cooking on a stove indoors or outdoors,
these will shorten the time [and hence reduce fuel use] required to reach the
desired temperature. - Doc Anonymous
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Some Thoughts on Fuel Conservation WTSHTF »
Letter Re: Tropical Storm Ike's Devastation Works its Way North to Ohio
Good Morning, Jim,
And yes it is a good morning at that. I'm here in the suburbs
of Ohio between Dayton and Cincinnati. Our power has returned. I read Larry
in Cincinnati's post this morning, and I know his thoughts and feelings all
too well. Like him, we had the preparedness mind set already in place, and
fared a bit better than some of our neighbors. I only caught the tail end of
your interview on AM 700 WLW in Cincinnati in my truck as I was heading to
work ( the company I work for is on a different power grid and was up and running)
Monday, and I could not help but think of some of the posts since I have been
coming to SurvivalBlog, and some of the things that you have discussed on the
site.
Like Larry, I hope this will be a wake up call to folks, but sadly, I
know that only a small portion of them will get it. One of the things that
I found to be spot on, was the part about the things that were stripped from
the shelves of the few stores that were open. I did not see them first hand,
but a few of my neighbors had gone to them, and they were an exact carbon copy
of the list. One even told of folks heading to the toy department, to snap
up all the Hannah Montana kids' flashlights. Yep, batteries, camping stoves,
lanterns, canned goods, candles, etc; Like I said, the list was so dead on
it gave me a shiver. As I stated earlier, we were a bit better prepared, so
we had no need of anything to get us through this minor inconvenience left
over by the storm.
Folks down in Texas are going to be without power, water,
food,
and other needed supplies in some areas for many weeks to come, so our prayers
go out to them more than the folks down the block who lost a small bit of food
in their refrigerator because the power has been off for a little less than
48 hours. There was some talk of the possibility that it could have been out
for a whole week, and this would have been a pretty bad thing for sure, but
the thing that I voiced the most concern to my neighbors about, and the one
that none of them had thought of was, that if it did take that long, there
was a good possibility that the water tower that sits on the hill above our
house would run dry, and without power to run the pumps to refill the tank.
But, we were okay here, because we had filled half of our five gallon water
cooler jugs
a few days before this happened, and I had gone to the grocery on Friday, and
had bought a case of 20 oz. bottles for my son to take in his school lunches.
Cooking was not a problem, we have a charcoal grill,and I have a Coleman white
gas fuel stove and a good supply of fuel for emergencies such as this. Plenty
of flashlights, a battery powered lantern, spare batteries, oil lamps and oil,
and candles with good sturdy candle holders for light, and a couple very good
multi-band radios, and plenty of batteries for them as well.
I hope that
others here in our tri-state area that were affected by this will see the need
to prepare for things like this. I know that a few of my neighbors will be
a bit better prepared for things by talking to me, and seeing how we were set
up at my house for this. Now this is not to say that I was totally prepared.
I saw a few "flaws in the slaw ", but preparing for these types
of things is a constant and on-going process, and we do the best we can with
the hand we have been dealt. The rest, we can adapt if we put our minds to
the problems and keep a cool head. - Dim Tim
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Letter Re: Tropical Storm Ike's Devastation Works its Way North to Ohio
Hi James!
I heard you this morning on WLW [in Cincinnati, Ohio] radio when you did your
quick interview. Nice job.
It is amazing here in Cincinnati the level of
chaos
that exists. The
power
is
still
out to over half a million people. My power just came back on about 10
minutes ago, but I'm waiting until it stabilizes before shutting down my emergency
power system.
We had quite a mess with lots of downed trees and power lines, but overall
it wasn't as bad as Houston - thank God! There has been quite a run on gasoline,
and a bit of gouging here. About 50% of the grocery stores are down without
power. [The] Krogers [grocery store chain in the region] has over 50% of
their stores closed and are predicting quite a loss in frozen/fresh foods at
those
locations.
I've been well prepared for quite a while, so no long gas lines for me, plenty
to eat, power and we've enjoyed a couple of days Internet free, which I might
add hasn't really been that bad! Maybe this will be a wake up call to more
people locally to get prepared. One can only hope. God bless you and yours!
- Larry
in Cincinnati, Ohio
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Energy Dependence and U.S. Military Policy, by Edward C.
“Oil is the world’s most critical resource”, and “without
it, nothing works in an industrialized civilization as currently configured”1.“The
issue is not whether DoD will be able to obtain the oil it needs to provide
for our national defense, because it will”, but “trends in global
supply and consumption patterns” serve to further “complicate…the
challenge of providing fuel to DoD’s far-flung operations as well as
affecting the price DoD must pay for fuel”2.
“Historically, no other energy source equals oil’s intrinsic qualities
of extractability, transportability, versatility, and cost”3. The
qualities that enabled oil to take over from coal as the front-line energy
source for
the industrialized world in the middle of the 20th century are as relevant
today as they were then”4. Accordingly,
and despite the best efforts of countless scientists in virtually all developed
economies, “there
is no (currently) viable substitute for petroleum”5. Oil
is the very substance that provides not only for the global economy, but also
for the continued
American dominance on the world’s geopolitical stage. American power
projection, both in terms of a diplomatic goal, but also military enforcement
is totally reliant on petroleum and oil products. America’s relatively
remote location to the global hot-spots of the Middle East and Eurasia is bridged
by its navy and air forces – propelled by oil. Sustained land operations
can not be currently fueled by any other means. Oil – or the dependence
on it as the primary means of supplying energy – is becoming the key
determinant for current and future national security policy. Accordingly, unless
the United States fully recognizes this dependence, understands the threat
to the American supply of oil from foreign suppliers and international competitors,
and undertakes active measures to reduce the dependence on foreign oil, America
will cease to be a global superpower.
The United States economy, and accordingly its current way of life, is virtually
entirely dependent on foreign oil and the mercy of the suppliers. “The
United States possesses 3 percent of the world’s remaining oil reserves
but uses 25 percent of world daily oil production”6. “America imports
almost 60% of its oil today” and, at current rates, will import “70%
by 2025”7. For example, “well over half of the oil and petroleum
products consumed in America—approximately 12 million barrels per day,
or more than 600 gallons for every man, woman, and child each year—now
come from abroad8. And, the U.S. government projects that the level of imports
will only contin
