« Influenza Pandemic Update: |Main| Two Letters Re: Precious Metal and Base Metal Composition of Foreign Coins? »
Letter Re: Bug Out Contingency Planning
[Introductory note from JWR: I normally send detailed letter replies only to their intended recipients, but in this case, I thought that this letter was a great example of terrain and obstacle analysis,a s well as "outside the box" planning, so I'm positing it for the entire SurvivalBlog readership to ponder. Do you have similar plans for off-road mobility, and contingency plans, folks?]
Mr. Rawles,
A note for Diane about her relative living on-post at Fort Riley, Kansas: First thing to obtain if you want to bug out of Ft. Riley is to get a Kansas Atlas & Gazetteer
map book from DeLorme. [JWR Adds: These books are a key tool for "Get Out of Dodge" (G.O.O.D.) planning. Get one of these for your state, and if your intended retreat is in another state, for any states in-between!]
I trained for some years on the Ft. Riley reservation, lived in Kansas and have canoed many streams in the area. I have these comments on how to get out of that location.
The Ft. Riley Military Reservation is bounded on it western side by the very large Milford Lake. The water body of this lake is 14+ miles long and has a wildlife area upstream that extends some 5 to 6 miles north to Boughton, Kansas. At Boughton you can access a good Highway that will take you to Clay Center then west on Highway 24 to get across the Republican river.
Only one road crosses the lake body proper at Wakefield [Highway 82]. The river running into the lake is the Republican River. It is runs through an area of heavy soils making the banks steep, the bottom of the river soft and the stream depth non-fordable. To ford this river channel without a bridge you would have to travel many miles upstream approaching Cloud County Kansas [county seat Concordia] where the river changes from a deep soil bed to a sandy bed. Even in this area no one crosses the river in a four wheeled vehicle. ATVs do, but it is just too soft and sandy. I worked for the Department of Agriculture in this area and am very familiar with the farm community and the river channel areas, as a hunter. The transition zone from solid soils to sand is rather mucky.
I have canoed much of the river from well above Concordia to near the lake. Other than the road crossing at Wakefield and the southern end of the dam where Highway 244 skirts below the dam the west side of Ft. Riley is only a restricted bug out route because of the few escape routes. Near Salina Kansas the is the junction of the Solomon River [consisting upriver of two large streams, the north fork and the south fork]; the Saline River and the Smoky Hill River. Saline is west of Ft. Riley. At Ft. Riley the Republican River joins this conglomeration of rivers that come together at Saline to form the Kansas, River. This river is big. You will not cross unless you can find a bridge. This river runs west to east for many miles and gets much bigger the further east you go. Bugging out south of Ft. Riley is possible only if the Highways are clear to get across this river system.
Consult your maps for details.
There are large tracts of land south and southeast of Junction City, the southern portal to Ft. Riley that do not have a fully-developed [typical Plains state township] mile on mile road grid system.
Why? It is range land supporting large ranches. The roads were never built on a grid in this area. It has restricted assess to state Highways and county farm to market roads only. Consult your maps.
Unless the major Highways are open to the south it is a restricted zone for escape some 15 miles south and 20 miles east due to the lack of a road grid system.
Yes, I-70 does run by the south. A good exit if it is open. To the east is the large metropolitan city of Manhattan. It is a block if you want to bug out to the east. North and further NE of Ft. Riley is the huge Tuttle Creek lake some 16 miles long with its accompanying wildlife land area extending another five miles or so upriver. It is a huge block to getting out east or NE. Only one road crosses the lake on the dam [Highway 13].
The only well developed open grid section of mile on mile of county roads and state Highways is north. The Ft. Riley Military Reservation is some 14 mile long to the north. There is a military road system through this area. This road system is accessible from the bedding area for troops on Custer Hill--or it was some years ago. Check this out.
The huge training area north of Ft. Riley is, or was controlled from a single building called "Range Control". The assignment and use of the training areas was scheduled from this area. They monitor the areas mostly by radio. My suggestion is to get a military map of Ft. Riley with the range control markings showing the designations of each of the training areas. They all have numbers.
Now, since I was there a large construction and upgrading has proceeded at the tank gunnery range. But in an emergency I would think military families wanting to exit through the training areas to Bala Kansas and Riley Kansas or to get to the Highway to Milford would be possible. [JWR Adds: It also bears mentioning that artillery range impact areas are to be avoided at all times, since they are often littered with unexploded ordnance (UXO). Most of the "back gates" of large military reservations are kept locked and often unmanned except during major field training exercises (FTXes). In genuine "worst case" times of Deep Drama, a large pair of bolt cutters
may be an indispensable friend of last resort. Before taking such extreme measures, however, consider that cutting the last link on a chain on such a gate is a Federal crime! Bolt cutters are a crucial tool that every well-prepared family should own, for many purposes.]
Note: large areas of the north are tank training areas. There are trails there marked tank trail. Under no circumstances try to negotiate a tank trail in a civilian vehicle. You will become mired down in no time. I have driven M60 tanks and tracked bridge units all the way from the bird bath to tank training headquarters. Trust me on this. I have seen tanks mired down on those trails that looked like it was going to take an act of God to get them out.
Ft. Riley present a core of access problems anyone wanting to bug out from there. It is possible if you make a good plan. Have the maps. And please, in advance drive all the routes to familiarize yourself with them. Most of all explore the roads through the training areas. Visit Range Control and talk to the people there and get a map of the military reservation area. [JWR Adds: This can often be done on the pretense of scouting a hunt, since some military training areas are open for specific hunting seasons.] Make a plan! Cordially, - JWC in Oklahoma
« Influenza Pandemic Update: |Main| Three Rules for Living Through the Second Depression, by Chaz Valenza »
Letter Re: GPS for Day-to-Day Use and Survival
Hi Jim,
I enjoyed that excellent GPS article [by Mike S., "GPS for Day-to-Day Use and Survival".] It squares well with my personal experience.
GPS on-board mapping has many errors. Seems worse in the hinterlands. Also pretty bad where new construction is concerned. I was amused while driving in MA that for about a half mile my GPS unit thought I was driving down railroad tracks.
While snowshoeing with friends, my buddy had to demonstrate the GPS on his iPhone. All it showed was a dot in the middle of a blank screen. We were beyond the reach of cell phone towers and his phone could not access a map. We had a good laugh about it, but it's a good thing we knew our way through other means.
Many people who totally rely on a GPS for driving seem to lose their innate sense of direction. I asked a cousin for directions to a place and he said. "Huh . . . I've been there a hundred times but just follow the GPS directions. I really couldn't find my way there without it."
I do enjoy having GPS in my car. It came in handy when my speedometer cable broke and I could get my mph off of the unit.
Just be aware of its limits and don't forget your other navigation skills. - Raymond
« Letter Re: TEOTWAWKI, Right Next Door |Main| Note from JWR: »
GPS for Day-to-Day Use and Survival, by Mike S.
Reading accounts of people who had evacuated the Gulf Coast during Hurricane Katrina and Hurricane Rita was a sobering experience. Evacuees who took to the interstate highways effectively ended up in giant parking lots. In contrast, those who used the back roads fared much better and were able to evacuate in a timely manner. I live sufficiently inland that hurricanes do not pose a serious threat to me, nor do other foreseeable regional natural disasters such as earthquakes pose a serious risk. However, I live in the middle of a major metropolitan area where man-made disasters and localized natural disasters can and do happen. Similarly, a disaster can impair my ability to even get home. I also know from personal experience that even "normal" weather-related events such as ice storms can turn the major highways into near-parking lots, and knowing the back roads can save precious time.
Global Positioning System (GPS) receivers have come a long way since they were first introduced to consumers in the 1990s. My first GPS receiver, purchased in 1995, had no inherent map capability. It provided position (latitude, longitude, and elevation) information, along with a bearing while traveling. It had the ability to store way-points, and to record tracks for later review or backtracking. Way-points and tracks were displayable on the graphical display of the unit, but it only showed where you had gone or places where you already knew the coordinates. Using it to its full potential required that it be used in conjunction with a high quality map, such as a United States Geological Survey (USGS) topographical map. By the mid-2000s, GPS receivers with mapping capability became available for a reasonable price. Today, GPS receivers with mapping capability are available for under $100.
There are competing systems to the US GPS system. The Russians have their own operational global navigation satellite system (GNSS) called Glonass. The European Union is currently developing their own GNSS, Galileo, expected to be operational in 2013. And, the Chinese are promising to deploy their own GNSS, called Compass, announced to be operational in 2015.
Further, there are regional satellite based position augmentation services that improve the accuracy of GPS. In North America, the Wide Area Augmentation System (WAAS) is operated by the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA). Europe operates the European Geostationary Navigation Overlay Service (EGNOS). Japan has the Multi-functional Satellite Augmentation System (MSAS). Other regional GPS augmentation systems are under development or being deployed.
This discussion is going to focus on hand-held and automotive GPS receivers - receivers I believe would be useful in an emergency situation. Hand-held GPS receivers run on batteries and are intended for outdoor use. Automotive GPS receivers are intended for use in an automobile, and provide turn-by-turn route navigation capability. Some hand-held GPS receivers have route navigation capability. I don't consider a GPS receiver that relies on a computer or PDA for display of data to be practical for emergency use since there are too many pieces to be forgotten, lost, or damaged in the "fog" of an emergency evacuation.
Many cell phones also have GPS capability, and while GPS-enabled cell phones are useful during normal times, they rely heavily on the cellular network to provide map and routing information, and should not be relied upon during an emergency when the cellular network may be overloaded or compromised.
Automotive GPS receivers
Automotive GPS receivers provide astonishing capability for their price, but they are not truly portable. For example, the TomTom ONE 125 unit has been readily available for around $100. It comes with a fairly detailed pre-loaded map of US streets and highways, and has a built-in lithium-ion battery which will power it for about three hours. It is intended to get its power from a vehicle. The map mode display is nearly as good as that provided by Google Maps which contributes significantly to its usability. More expensive units will provide larger displays, larger maps (e.g. all of North America), and more points-of-interest (POI) in the map database. (Several of the automotive GPS receiver manufacturers have started providing free or reasonably priced map update services for their road map products. This may or may not be important to you depending on how much the streets and roads change in your area of interest.)
Automotive GPS receivers are known for providing turn-by-turn directions from your current location to your destination. Destinations are either selected from the POI database, entered as a street address, or even entered as a latitude-longitude coordinate. Many reviews of automotive GPS units will complain that the unit does not navigate you to the exact address entered, but may be off by a house or two. My automotive GPS receiver misplaces my home address on my street - it appears to assume that addresses are numbered proportionally from 0 to 99 along the block with 50 being the mid-point of the block, and estimates the position along the street from the numerical address. I don't consider this a significant issue. My automotive GPS receiver is also capable of generating a route to a known latitude-longitude coordinate position, so long as that position is close to a street or road in its map database. However, it won't generate a route to a previously stored location hundreds of feet from a street or road, such as a location in the middle of a large parking lot.
Handheld GPS receivers
Handheld GPS receivers fall into several broad categories. Bare-bones units whose functionality consists of storing some small number of way points and the ability to direct the user back to one of these waypoints. Basic units whose functionally is not a whole lot dissimilar to those produced in the mid-90s in that they can record tracks and waypoints, and provide coordinate information. And, mapping units that have pre-loaded/built-in maps and usually have the ability to upload additional map information (many caveats here).
Bare-bones: I am only aware of one GPS receiver on the market with this limited feature set. This unit is the Bushnell BackTrack. It has the ability to store three waypoints set by pressing the "Mark" button when you are at a location you want it to return to later. There is no ability to enter waypoint coordinates. It provides a bearing and distance to direct the user back to one of the three previously stored waypoints. The bearing is displayed via one of 16 triangular points spaced around the perimeter of its round display being energized. The three-digit range is displayed in yards (or meters) or miles (or kilometers) depending on the magnitude of the distance to the waypoint. The BackTrack is intended to help a user return to their car in a large parking lot or find their way back to a hotel in a strange city. It may also be useful in helping a day hiker return to his vehicle, or helping a hunter return to a stand. I see little practical utility for a receiver with this limited capability in a SHTF scenario.
Basic: There are many basic GPS receiver models on the market, the most common being the yellow Garmin etrex (not to be confused with the many mapping etrex models). These models generally provide a compass display, velocity displays, position displays (latitude, longitude, and elevation), and can display a map-like plot of your route tracks and way points. They do not contain any type of base map. They have the same basic capabilities of units sold in the 90s, with updated hardware. They must be used in conjunction with high quality maps to be utilized to their full potential.
Mapping: There are many mapping GPS receiver models on the market. They range from units having a limited base map containing major roads, major streets, and larger bodies of water, to units that come pre-loaded with topographical maps for the entire US. Units containing a limited base map generally have memory for uploading additional map data. Some models use a memory card (SD, or micro-SD) to store the uploaded map data, and some models rely on internal memory. The big caveat is that map data can expensive - on the order of $100 for detailed maps of North America - and generally these maps cannot be shared among multiple units.
No matter how new the map, it will contain old and erroneous data. This is a frequent complaint in the product reviews of electronic map products.
Some hand-held mapping GPS receivers have routing capabilities. With the addition of routable maps, the receiver can function as basic automotive GPS receiver. It will beep and display a message to alert the driver/navigator of upcoming turns. At best, a hand-held mapping receiver is a compromise relative to an automotive GPS receiver due to the small screen size and lack of voice prompts. (Do not underestimate the value of voice prompts when traveling in heavy traffic or in a dense urban environment with numerous streets and exits.)
The Garmin user community has developed open source (free) map products using US Government data and other data unencumbered by use restrictions. For US roads, the Ibycus map is very nice, but lacks the metadata utilized by the routing software built into some Garmin GPS receivers. Further, there are open source topographical maps of the US derived from US government data. The Ibycus and topographical maps are available online from GPS File Depot.
There is another site (http://garmin.na1400.info/routable.php) that has routable street maps for Garmin GPS units. As of this writing, I have not tried the maps available on that site.
Some mapping units also have the ability to upload satellite images and other image data from the internet. I have not studied those units in any detail.
Supportability
Supportability relates to the resources required to support the ongoing operation of the GPS receiver. For automotive GPS receivers, this means gasoline to power the vehicles within which they are used. For hand-held GPS receivers, this is largely its battery consumption. In anything other than a short-term emergency situation, I don't consider an automotive GPS receiver to be sustainable because of the dependence on gasoline supplies for its host automobile.
Currently marketed hand-held GPS receivers have widely varying battery consumption rates. Some are as low as 10 hours on 2 AA cells (many models), while others claim to be as long as 50 hours on 2 AA cells (Lowrance GO and GO2). Most hand-held GPS receivers use AA cells, while a few use AAA cells. Whether disposable alkaline batteries or rechargeable batteries are used, I am interested in units that have longer battery life. Further, I do not consider hand-held GPS receivers with built-in rechargeable batteries or a proprietary battery pack to be supportable since recharging the battery in the field would be impractical.
Mapping GPS receivers, whether hand-held or automotive, are generally dependent on a personal computer (PC) for map installations and updates. Some GPS manufacturers also sell their maps preloaded on memory cards for their GPS units that accept memory cards. Once map data is loaded onto the receiver, it can be utilized without further updates by a PC.
Position Accuracy & Chipset Sensitivity
The typical GPS receiver specifications will state a position accuracy of less than 15 meters (49 feet) RMS 95 percent of the time, or less than 3 meters (10 feet) 95 percent of the time with WAAS. WAAS is a system for North America with two geostationary satellites that transmit GPS correction information to dramatically improve the position accuracy of GPS receivers. (See the Wikipedia entry on WAAS for more information.) Most WAAS capable GPS receivers also support EGNOS and MSAS.
Even when GPS receivers have the same position accuracy specifications, receiver sensitivity and other design parameters make a big difference it the actual position accuracy. Position accuracy is a function of the number of satellites the GPS receiver can receive and the quality of the satellite signals. Three satellites are the minimum required to get a two-dimensional position fix, and four satellites are required to get a three-dimensional position fix. The more satellites that are received, the better the position solution will be. In practice, obstacles like mountains, buildings, or trees are going to attenuate the satellite signals and affect the position solution. But, software and chipset sensitivity also have a big influence on position accuracy.
Most GPS receivers sold now have WAAS capability, but just because the receiver is advertised as being WAAS capable does not mean that the WAAS feature actually functions. In 2007, the FAA moved their WAAS transmissions to new satellites. Magellan GPS receivers had hard coded the WAAS satellite data in the firmware for their hand-held GPS receivers, and many of these receivers did not transition to the new satellites. The firmware for many of their older hand-held receivers (pre-Triton models) can be hacked to update the satellite data and re-enable WAAS. As of this writing, WAAS does not work on the lower-end Triton models, and nobody has yet figured out how to hack the Triton firmware. The Lowrance iFinder GO receivers appear to have a similar firmware problem.
Not all GPS receivers have the same sensitivity. Chipset sensitivity is important. My mid-19s90s vintage GPS receiver has noticeably diminished sensitivity under many trees. In contrast, a modern high sensitivity chipset will pick up most satellites visible above the horizon, even when the signal travels through the brick walls of a typical residence.
So, how important is position accuracy? Well, it all depends on what you want to do with the receiver. If you are trying to return to a camp site, a one-hundred foot position error is probably close enough. If you are trying to find the location of a buried cache, one hundred feet probably isn't close enough. However, a position error of less than ten feet will probably be close enough to locate the cache.
Using Your GPS Receiver
Start up. When a GPS receiver is first taken out of the box or after it has been stored for several months (a "factory start'), it requires upwards of 15 minutes with a clear view of the sky to download the almanac and ephemeris data necessary to compute an accurate position. (Some GPS receivers come from the factory preloaded with almanac data, and if that almanac data is current the receiver can get a first fix out of the box in seconds.) Older consumer GPS receivers produced in the 1990s that do not have parallel receivers can take far longer (up to several hours) to produce an accurate position result from a factory start.
Subsequent power-ups of the receiver, after having been off for a few minutes ("hot start") to a few hours ("warm start") will produce an accurate position result in a few seconds to less than a minute if it has a clear view of the sky. If the receiver is left off overnight or for several days ("cold start") the receiver should produce an accurate position result in a minute or so if it has a clear view of the sky.
Antennas. Most consumer GPS receivers now have internal antennas. Some are patch antennas and some are "quadrifilar helix" antennas. The patch antenna is normally facing up when the GPS receiver is lying on a flat surface. The quadrifilar helix antenna is normally facing up when the GPS receiver is standing vertically. It is beneficial to know what kind of antenna your receiver has and the orientation of that antenna to achieve optimal results. Some owner’s manuals will tell you what type of antenna the GPS receiver contains or suggest how to hold the receiver for optimal performance.
For example, the Garmin etrex Legend and Legend HCx have patch antennas. In practice, I have had excellent reception having them standing up at about 60 degrees on the dashboard of my vehicle.
Satellite Status Page. Most GPS receivers have a satellite status page that will provide information about the position of the satellites in the sky and the relative signal quality from each individual satellite in the form of a bar graph. Some GPS receivers have a dumbed-down "normal" satellite status page, and an "advanced" page - you want to use the advanced page. When I have seen my estimated position error degrade or I get a "satellite signal lost" message unexpectedly, the satellite status page can be very helpful in determining the source of the problem. No signal from some satellites could suggest that their signal is being blocked by a mountain or a building. Uniformly low signal quality could be the result of the signal being attenuated by tree cover.
Roadway Routing. GPS receivers with routing capability have preferences that allow you to select the type of route you want it to generate. Typical options are fastest route, shortest route, avoid freeways or highways, walking, or on a bicycle. Some receivers further have options for the type of vehicle (e.g. automobile, bus, truck) you are driving - this option can dramatically change the route generated. Most routing units will automatically recalculate your route to reach your destination if you deviate from the planned route (e.g. you miss a turn), unless you disable this option.
Updates. The major GPS receiver manufacturers occasionally make firmware updates available for those models that can connect to a PC if that PC has internet access. With rare exceptions, it is worthwhile to keep your GPS unit's software updated to the latest firmware version available from the manufacturer. These updates will correct bugs and may introduce minor enhancements.
Practice, Practice, Practice. Use your GPS receiver. Practice with it. Get to know how it works in different environments, how fast it starts up, how to navigate through its various menus. Figure out now how to mount it in your vehicle - windshield suction mounts work very well.
Paper Map and Compass. A GPS receiver is not a substitute for a paper map and compass. GPS receivers, especially the mapping variety, are just easier and faster to use. Use your GPS receiver to help refine your map and compass skills. (You can also use your GPS receiver to help verify that your compass reads true by obtaining the coordinates of some prominent feature, and then computing the magnetic bearing from your compass test point to the feature. Yes, even a genuine military lensatic compass can be off by several degrees.)
For information about using GPS receivers with maps (specifically topographical maps), I'd recommend the book GPS Made Easy
, by Lawrence and Alex Letham. While the book is directed at hikers and other outdoor enthusiasts, it provides a good discussion, using real-world examples, about navigating with GPS receivers using topographical maps with different coordinate systems. The book is now in its fifth edition. The fifth edition omits a discussion about the use of a map and compass for backup navigation, in the event of GPS receiver failure, found in the previous editions.
Summary
I believe GPS receivers have a place in emergency preparations. While probably not useful in a long-term TEOTWAWKI scenario where the GPS constellation will most likely have failed, they certainly have a place in many SHTF scenarios.
I have used GPS receivers from several different manufacturers. For hand-held units, I have a definite preference for Garmin units – they work as advertised. If you get a Garmin handheld unit, I recommend that you go for a “high sensitivity” model that accepts SD or micro-SD cards for map storage, uses AA cells for power, and connects to a PC via a USB cable. The only caveat, and this applies to all manufacturers, is to avoid newly-introduced models. Give the manufacturer some time to work out the bugs.
For automotive GPS receivers, I have had the most experience with the TomTom ONE 125, which is TomTom’s low end model. TomTom’s more advanced models just add features to this basic model. The Garmin automotive GPS receivers are well respected, and I know several people who are happy with their units.
If you can get only one GPS receiver, get a hand-held mapping unit with routing capabilities (e.g. the Garmin etrex Legend HCx), and load a routable map package (e.g. Garmin City Navigator NT) onto it. A handheld GPS receiver can continue to serve you if you are forced to abandon your vehicle, or are otherwise forced to travel on foot. If you can get more than one unit, add an automotive GPS receiver from a major manufacturer.
Opinions/Mini-Reviews
Below I provide opinions of several currently available mapping GPS receivers that I've personally been able to use. My simulated forest canopy is my traditional single-story wood-frame house with asphalt shingles and a brick exterior. GPS receiver performance in my house is similar to that which I have experienced under a tree canopy. Position accuracy is verified by entering the coordinates provided by the GPS receiver into Google Maps with satellite images, and comparing the position plotted by Google with the actual location on the satellite image. Further, position accuracy is only measured after the GPS receiver has had sufficient time to download almanac and ephemeris data from the satellites. All of these GPS receivers perform well outside, including when placed on the dashboard of a moving vehicle.
Garmin etrex Legend: The Legend is a hand-held mapping GPS receiver with a high level base map that contains major streets and highways, larger bodies of water, and cities. The four-level gray-scale display is very readable under most circumstances, and it has a back light for night viewing. It has 8M bytes of memory for storing map data, which will not hold a lot of map data. Battery life is advertised to be 18 hours on two alkaline AA cells. I have not timed the battery life, but I have no reason to believe that the advertised 18-hour run-time is unreasonably optimistic. The GPS receiver chipset is not "high sensitivity" but I can pick up many of the visible satellites under my simulated forest canopy. This receiver also has WAAS capability, which dramatically improves its estimated position error. I have seen estimated position error values as low as 6 feet from this unit. In early 2009, this model was replaced by an upgraded model called the etrex Legend H, which utilizes a high sensitivity GPS chipset, has 24M bytes of map memory, and connects to a computer utilizing USB.
Garmin etrex Legend HCx: The Legend HCx is a hand-held mapping GPS receiver with a high level base map. The color display is very readable under most conditions, with an excellent back light for night or low-light conditions. It accepts micro-SD memory cards. Battery life is advertised to be 25 hours on two alkaline AA cells. It utilizes a high sensitivity chipset that picks up virtually all satellites in the sky under my simulated forest canopy. It is WAAS enabled, and can produce position solutions with estimated position errors under ten feet. It connects to a computer utilizing USB. The USB port in the unit can also provide power to the receiver in a vehicle if a cigarette lighter USB power supply is used.
With the purchase of the Garmin City Navigator NT map package ($100) and a 2 GB micro-SD memory card, routable maps can be loaded into the Legend HCx allowing it to function as basic automotive GPS receiver. It will beep and display a message to alert the driver/navigator of upcoming turns.
Lowrance iFinder Go2: The Go2 is a hand-held mapping GPS receiver with a high level base map containing major streets and highways, large bodies of water, and cities. The base map contains many smaller bodies of water not found in the Garmin base map. What makes this unit intriguing is an advertised battery life of 50 hours on two alkaline AA cells. The GPS receiver chipset is not high sensitivity, but it can pick up some satellites under my simulated forest canopy. This receiver also has WAAS capability, but this feature may not be functioning properly since I have not seen estimated position error values below 16 feet. While this unit has 64M bytes of storage, the manufacturer does not support upload of map data into this unit.
Magellan Triton 200: The Triton 200 is a hand-held mapping GPS receiver with a high level base map that contains major highways, larger bodies of water, and cities. After performing a necessary firmware upgrade, a significantly improved base map is loaded in the unit. The color display is difficult to read under many circumstances without the back light being turned on. With the back light turned on, the color display is beautiful. It has 10M bytes of memory for storing map data, which will not hold a lot of map data. Battery life is advertised to be 10 hours on two alkaline AA cells, which seems to be rather optimistic (6 hours is a more realistic estimate). It utilizes the high sensitivity SiRF Star III chipset, which picks up virtually all of the satellites in the sky under my simulated forest canopy. It is WAAS capable, but the WAAS capability may not be functioning (postings on several forums indicate it is disabled) since I have not seen estimated position errors below 13 feet.
The Triton 200 connects to a PC using a proprietary USB cable. However, there are many reviews, substantiated by my personal experience, indicating that many users have difficulty connecting their Triton GPS receivers to their computer. I could not get it to stay connected to my main computer long enough to even start the firmware update. However, it worked flawlessly with my wife's computer. (Note: My Triton 200 came with the USB cable, but the manufacturer's web site suggests Triton 200s do not come with the cable.)
TomTom ONE 125: The TomTom ONE 125 is a basic automotive GPS receiver. It has a nice 3.5 inch color display. It provides voice prompts and warnings, but does not speak street names. It only contains street maps for the US. It has 1G byte of flash memory built into the unit for map and software storage. Memory is not expandable. The auto-route capability makes some surprising choices - choices I would not have made and that are not optimal based on my driving preferences. However, auto-routing will get you to your location. As mentioned above, this receiver is also capable of generating a route to a known latitude-longitude coordinate position, so long as that position is close to a street or road in its map database. Its GPS chipset is incredibly sensitive, capable of picking up virtually all satellites above the horizon under my simulated forest canopy. While I cannot find any information from the manufacturer stating that it is WAAS enabled, its performance and information displayed on the satellite status page lead me to believe it is WAAS enabled. It also has a built-in rechargeable lithium-ion battery that delivers the advertised 3 hour battery life. This GPS receiver is readily available for $100 - a tremendous bargain for the features it provides.
Definitions and Notes
Almanac and ephemeris data - Almanac and ephemeris data are used by the GPS receiver to precisely compute satellite positions, and hence your position. All GPS satellites transmit almanac data providing coarse information about the orbital position of all satellites in the GPS constellation. Each GPS satellite further transmits its own ephemeris data which provides precise position information about its orbit. The almanac data is generally considered to be good for several months, but is updated daily. The ephemeris data is considered good for only about five hours. Almanac and ephemeris data is continuously transmitted. Full download of the almanac data takes 12.5 minutes, after the receiver has locked onto a satellite signal. Each satellite retransmits its ephemeris data every 30 seconds.
Base (or background) map - A base map is the default map built into a mapping GPS receiver. The base map typically contains interstate highways, US and state highways, four-lane city streets, incorporated towns and cities, lakes and rivers, and shoreline information. The detail of the base map varies from receiver to receiver, and can be a differentiating feature between two seemingly similar receivers. GPS receivers are typically regionalized, and will be loaded with base maps for the region (e.g. North America) where the GPS receiver is expected to be sold.
Patch antenna - A compact flat antenna, with a metal "patch" positioned above a ground plane. The greatest sensitivity is perpendicular to the plane of the antenna. The typical patch antenna in a GPS receiver is less than one inch square.
Quadrifilar helix (or "quad helix" or "quadrifilar") antenna - A cylinder shaped antenna with four spiral elements. The greatest sensitivity is parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Modern quadrifilar helix antennas in consumer GPS receivers can be as small as 10 millimeters (3/8").
Selective Availability (SA) - A currently disabled feature of GPS designed to deny an enemy use of civilian GPS receivers for precision weapon guidance. SA was designed to intentionally induce errors of up to 100 meters in the unencrypted GPS signals available to civilians. SA was turned off May 1, 2000.
Recent news stories have reported with alarm that the GPS system could fail in 2010. The facts are that GPS Block IIF satellites being built are almost three years behind schedule, and that the probability of maintaining a 24 satellite constellation between 2010 and 2014 falls below 95-percent. The US Air Force's objective of having a minimum of four satellites visible 95-percent of the time may not be met. As a practical matter, this means that there may be occasions where insufficient satellites are visible to get a 3D position fix. However, there are currently 30 healthy satellites in orbit, and three older satellites that could be reactivated if necessary. The chance of the GPS system failing is infinitesimally small.
This author has no affiliation with any manufacturer, distributor, or retailer of any product mentioned in this article. All brand names and product names used in this article are trade names, service marks, trademarks, or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The opinions expressed in this article are those of the author. And, as always, your mileage may vary, so use this information at your own risk.
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Letter Re: Home Heating Oil Price Fluctuations--Time to Buy Low »
Letter Re: Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009
Dear James
Regarding Matt R.'s letter, I have been a survivalist and self-sufficient minded person most of my adult life. I live at my retreat in a prime western state. I have been reading your site for the last 18 months. I have learned some new useful information (never too late to teach old dog new tricks) from your site. I have also purchased quite a few supplies from your advertisers.
For most scenarios my home/retreat is a perfect place to be if the SHTF and I can just stay home. However I do not like to have all my eggs in one basket. I have three very different SHTF plans. One of my contingency plans is to get out of Dodge using aircraft. I keep a Cessna 206 in my back yard. My back up location is remote and has a place to land the plane. I was surprised by the pilot [in the subsequenty-posted letter] who so negatively responded of the use of aircraft as a get out of Dodge mode of transportation and strongly disagree with a lot of what he said.
I made my living for the last 30 years as a bush pilot, flying everything from Piper Super Cubs to DC-6s. I have flown over 12,500 hours as Pilot in command operating in the USA, Canada and Africa.
Cessna 172 Aircraft as a G.O.O.D. Vehicle
A 172 would not be my first choice in a plane to get out of dodge but the C-172 could carry the pilot along with one passenger and 300 pounds of gear nonstop for 400 miles. For some scenarios a C-172 or similar aircraft could be a life saver. [JWR Adds: I agree. It would be great if every pilot that reads SurvivalBlog owned a Pilatus Porter, but alas, we live in the real world, where budgets demand compromises. OBTW, one fairly inexpensive upgrade is having a spare set of extra large "Tundra" tires. These will greatly expand the improvised airfield possibilities of many high-wingers..]
I would not rely on any one plan to work if SHTF but for 1 of 3 contingency plans a small aircraft could be just the ticket. During a local disaster or to get to your well stocked retreat a C-172 or similar plane could save the day and be the best transportation option.
A 172 will land very short, a lot shorter than it can take off. In a worst case scenario for one trip to get to your retreat the pilot may not care if the plane ever takes off again. I have landed and taken off on thousands of beaches, roads, gravel bars, ridge tops and every other unimproved surface that you can think of. There are a few books, videos and specialized classes for bush flying that a pilot can learn from but it takes years to become proficient in off field bush flying. But even the average pilot has many options to land off airport. Just be honest with yourself and fly within your ability. The biggest hint I can give any pilot for off airport landings is check out the landing sites from the ground before attempting a landing. Fly over your retreat and look for possible landing sites, then land at the closest airport drive/walk to the prospective landing site, check the approach, escape routes etc. before you ever attempt to make a landing. If you are not 100% positive you can safely land do not attempt it and go find another spot. It would be better to walk an extra 10 miles to your retreat than be ½ mile from your retreat with a broken leg!
Auto Fuel in Aircraft
Auto fuel will work fine in any piston aircraft and most turbine powered aircraft for a limited time. Many Piston aircraft including 172s can legally use Auto fuel for private use. There are three issues with using auto fuel in piston aircraft.
First you need to make sure the auto fuel is clean and free from all water and particles. This is easy to do, just buy a MR Funnel (around $50) that has the micro screen filter in it and run the fuel throw it. If you have any concern let the fuel settle for ½ hour then run it through the filter a second time.
The second issue in using auto fuel is the engine life over the long term. Auto fuel will/may reduce the engine life of piston aircraft engines. How much will the life of the engine be reduced is hotly debated among experts. 0% -50% reduction in the life of the engine is the range the different experts claim. Piston aircraft engines are designed to go 1,400 to 2,000 hours between overhauls so even losing 50% of the engines remaining life should not affect a plane in a SHTF situation where you have to get out of Dodge.
The third issue is auto gas with ethanol is hard on aircraft hoses and gaskets and seals and will reduce the life of a bladder type fuel tanks. Again this is a long term affect and for a few flights and should not affect the safety of a flight. But if you let auto fuel with ethanol stay in the aircraft system it could cause big problems in certain aircraft.
To be legal the use of Auto Fuel in any aircraft the specific plane must have been approved for auto fuel and you must follow the STC. In a true emergency a few fights using clean auto fuel in a aircraft will have no affect. In many Third World countries that I have worked Avgas was not always available so we would occasionally be forced to run a tank or two of auto gas in our piston aircraft.. If you are using auto fuel in a plane that has 8.5-1 compression pistons keep the mixture a little rich and run the max power setting 5% below normal and you will be fine.
I operated DHC-2 Beavers and Piper PA-18 Super Cubs a on a steady diet of auto gas for years. The Piper Super Cub uses the same engine as most 172s. On one occasion I have even used auto fuel in a Twin Otter with PT-6 turbine engines.
Navigation
If the plan is to use a plane to get out of dodge the biggest problem pilots may face is navigation. These days most pilots rely on nav aids and never practice using only a chart (map), compass and stop watch. In the last 15 years I have not checked out one single commercial pilot or flight instructor that could use a map and compass well enough to pass my company’s standards.
If you plan to use a plane in a SHTF situation be prepared for all navigation aids including GPS to be off line. I suggest using a Map and compass and practice that a lot. In a SHTF situation if you count on nav aids you are very foolish. Most pilots that have learned to fly in the last 20 years are not able to navigate worth a hoot using only a Map and compass and are way too dependant on nav aids. I suggest anyone planning to use a plane in a SHTF situation pre fly the route as often as possible while times are good. Take a chart and highlight the whole route. Make notes as to what the actual compass heading is that you need to stay on course. Have a check point every 5 miles and learn to recognize them. Have the average time it takes between check points written on the chart. Fly this route at both altitude and low level as the check points will look totally different. Practice your route without nav aids so you get use to using the compass and stopwatch.
Avoiding Small Arms Fire
As for getting shot out of the air by small arms fire that is unlikely. The part of the world I now work our planes get shot at a lot by small arms fire. It is rare that a plane ever gets hit. If you are 5000’ above the ground small arms fire will not hit you. The danger is the climb out and the descent. A very steep spiral or figure 8 descent will drastically reduce your chances of getting hit. A power off setting during a descent is very quiet and will not attract attention from very far. It can be hard on the cylinders because of shock cooling but in a SHTF situation do you really care.
The most vulnerable time to get hit by small arms fire is takeoff and climb out. The trick here is to wait for a clear night and perfect VFR conditions. Take off early morning just before first light so you will be at altitude just as it is getting light. People with small arms cannot hit what they cannot see so if it is a SHTF situation remember to leave all the aircraft lights off.
Another technique that can be used is to stay as close to the ground as possible ([as little as] 25 feet AGL) [in flat country] for the flight. This limits exposure and does not give people on the ground much time to react, locate and fire at you. Using the low flying method you must never fly near the same route twice as the second time you fly that route people on the ground will recognize the sound know a plane is coming and will be ready. A second low level run is far more likely to get you shot. I do not recommend this for most pilots and do not attempt the low level flying unless you have been trained for low level operations.
James, Please Keep Up The Good Work! You are providing a fantastic service and giving a tremendous amount of good sound advice. - Old Dog
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Letter Re: Keeping Cash On Hand--A Lesson Learned »
Letter Re: Dealing With Local Building Inspectors
Mr. Rawles,
[To follow up on TANSTAAFL's letter,] I have worked for several engineering firms as a GIS technician, then manager. Counties will advertise when they will be re-flying parts or all of the county. Most county engineers, auditor, or Property Valuation Administrator (PVA) offices will tell you what the schedule for mapping is out a couple of years (usually the department in charge of tax assessments). A give away that it is happening is when you see large X's painted in intersections with a metal spike sunk in the middle of the X (these are control points), with survey trucks with GPS receivers sitting in intersections or other open ground. Most orthophotography is done in late winter or late fall, when the leaves are off the trees and there is no snow on the ground. Evergreen trees are good for masking what lies on the surface. Not much you can do to hide any earth work that changes contours. There is another means of gathering contour information, LIDAR. Basically a laser that oscillates and paints the ground. Even trees won't fully obscure it.
On a side note, the old USGS quadrangle maps are now almost supplanted by FEMA's flood insurance rate maps, which are all digital. There is all kinds of info available through those maps for interested parties.
On the non-government side, Google Earth is getting better resolution all the time, farther and farther away from population centers.
Your best bet to avoid attention is anonymity. That is true for all sorts of things. - School Dude
« Economics and Investing: |Main| U.S. Dollar: the Good, the Bad and the Ugly, by Axel Merk »
Two Letters Re: Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009
Dear Jim:,
All this recent discussion by SurvivalBlog readers about hot-wiring airplanes, and cutting fences and locks is missing some basic, well, let's just say "applied ethics".
Recall the Golden Rule "Do unto others as they have done unto you". Flip the situation around and look at it from the property owner's view: How would you feel if you saw someone stealing your airplane? (Your life savings in an aircraft.)
How would you feel upon noticing someone cutting the fence or gate that keeps your cattle off the road?
Granted, in a life-threatening emergency you may morally take liberties with other folk's property that are not normally available. If a rancher saw someone drive through their fence because they were being hotly pursued by criminals - they would probably be understanding of the circumstances.
If a rancher or farmer saw someone with bolt cutters working on their fence - someone who has obviously premeditated trespassing - at the very least they are going to be confronted. In a really bad situation, perhaps after dark, it could easily end up in a situation where they will be shot.
The wise and honorable person will pre-plan ethical actions. The obvious macro solution is getting out of Dodge early. If you are going to pre-plan using an airplane, then preplan by becoming a trusted rental customer, know how to contact the owner on short notice and rent for cash, with a security deposit in gold coin.
The suggestion to cut a link and add a lock to a gate rather than cutting the lock makes sense so you have not destroyed the property owner's lock. But be extremely cautious about planning on trespassing on other folk's property... I wouldn't imagine country folk are going to take trespassing lightly in an emergency - I can't see how it could be done safely unless you can hail the farmhouse for permission. Any ranchers out there with an idea how this scenario could be handled ethically and safely? Regards, - OSOM
JWR Replies: I concur, wholeheartedly. It is just one small step from applied ethics to applied ballistics. It is of the utmost importance to respect the property of others. While utilizing BLM or or other public land in an emergency is a given, simply cutting across private farm or ranch land in the midst of a disaster is likely to get interlopers well-ventilated rather quickly. Put yourself in the position of a rancher. If in the midst of a societal collapse you saw someone breaking open your locked gate, what would you do? For many, the answer will be "shoot first and ask questions later."
As I have emphasized time and time again in my writings, the very best approach is to live at your retreat year-round. That is great for retirees and the self-employed. But for many folks that is impossible, because or work and family obligations. So the next best approach is to have a very well-stocked, very secure retreat, and maintaining your readiness to get there on very short notice. Nearly all of your key logistics should be pre-positioned at your retreat. Do not think in terms of finessing your gear into the cubic feet available in your vehicle. If you take the time to shoehorn things in, you are probably wasting precious time that should be spent on the road, getting out of town in advance of the Golden Horde. Just a one hour delay could mean the difference between smooth sail and ending up in a a monumental traffic jam that soon becomes a linear parking lot. You should simply keep one Bug Out Bag (typically a backpack) and a supplementary duffle bag ready at all times. Be ready to grab them and go. Pre-positioning your gear eliminates much of the worry and confusion of a Get Out of Dodge situation.
Needless to say, you'll need a Plan B and a Plan C. You may end up on a bicycle, or on foot.
Think things through, plan ahead, and act morally. If and when things fall apart, you want to be part of the solution, rather than contributing to the problem.
James,
In response to our reader's suggestion of using a Cessna172 for escaping. That is probably one of the poorest choices I could imagine. It has many faults and I'll list them FWIW.
First of all I have over 2,500+ hours flying Air Charter and Air Taxi under Part 135 FAA Regs. I took the same tests flying single and twin engine aircraft as any airline pilot did with the only exception was that I was not required to have a first class medical as they did. So I am twin engine, Commercial and Instrument rated.
Problems with a Cessna 172:
It does not have a big payload especially when fully-fueled and the tendency to overload it would be great and dangerous. Automotive fuel should not be used, i.e. I would not fly one filled with automotive fuel. Tests were done with using it years ago and many problems were found.
Aircraft weather [data] would most likely be unavailable.
VOR and other navigation aids would probably also be unavailable. Okay, If you had a GPS unit you might be able to navigate.
Our lifeblood, gasoline would most likely by unavailable, especially aviation gas since it can be used in automobiles and would be subject to being stolen if the electricity to pump it out was available. I used to run a tank of 100 low lead aviation gas through my motorcycle about once a month.
Runways could and most likely would be obstructed or otherwise cluttered from looting, fuel, oil theft, etc., etc..
Without weather information what would be your chances of finding a suitable landing strip or even an open highway strip if you found yourself approaching thunder storms, icing conditions fog, or a large [weather] front. If you could or did land, especially under power, would attract the looters for the fuel and whatever else you have in the plane.
ILS, VOR or even ADF stations could or would be off the air making a bad weather approach deadly.
You could, literally, be shot out of the air by angry looters thinking the plane may contain supplies they want or just by some idiot with sufficient ammo angry at their situation. I know of a glider pilot shot through the arm by a guy who lived by the airport.
The preceding is just a drop in the bucket. I could go on.
I did consider "borrowing" an aircraft to get home should the SHTF while I was far from home but it would be just to get home and all conditions would be carefully considered and near perfect. It would not be a bug-out option should I need to bug out.
IMHO an aircraft might be an option very early on in a SHTF situation but again conditions would have to be very favorable. - Larry in Pennsylvania
« Influenza Pandemic Update: |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009
Mr. Rawles,
Concerning the article: Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009, by Bill in Chicagoland, I would like to add to these comments. My 20 years experience driving the county roads and the farmer ranch roads with the Soil Conservation Service have given me a perspective of the potential for choice this road system presents.
I have a considerable amount of experience driving cross country.
I have driven from the Northern Texas panhandle across the Oklahoma Panhandle into southeastern Colorado and north to the Colorado Springs area on mostly gravel and dirt roads.
Several times I have driven the 250+ miles from Denver Colorado to Salina Kansas mainly on dirt/gravel roads or county blacktop roads. This particular trip is paralleling the major river valleys throughout this area. The interstate roads basically follow the uplands/highlands avoiding the river/creek valley bottoms. That portion of the drainage system between rivers called the upland or divide area. Up on these area you have minimum drainage systems to cross. Only when the rivers and major creeks make a jog south or southeast do you find a major drainage system to cross.
Why are drainage systems death to bugging out? You can cross them only on bridges, and bridges are [logical ambush sites and hence potentially] death traps.
Here is an example: West of Oklahoma City, you'll see that I-40 strikes out to the west.
Now, let's clarify something. [Even in most plains states,] there are no paralleling roads to interstates that extend for extensive distances. Yes, there are some that may parallel for 20 to 30 miles. But as soon as the interstate jogs you get the paralleling road intersecting the interstate or its diverting away in a direction you may not want.
If you do not know your area well, you can get boxed in quickly.
West of Oklahoma City striking in a southeasterly direction is the Canadian River. The interstate crosses the Canadian river in the Hinton/Geary area. That is some 35 miles west of Oklahoma City. The next Canadian river crossing on the north side of the interstate is just northeast of Thomas. That is 23 miles west and 13 miles north of the interstate.
So…you come barreling out of Oklahoma City and find the interstate clogged. Look again at the map. The city of Oklahoma City has a major river running through it. The North Canadian River. You cannot get on the Interstate. The bridges going over the North Canadian River south are filled with traffic. You opt to set out west through Oklahoma City on a street that will take you west to El Reno and then on to points west following the Interstate. But you cannot do this on the north side of the interstate.
And the south side of the Interstate is closed off because of the bridges across the North Canadian River are jammed full.
The road system on the north side is a maze of closed roads, dead end roads that all end up down in the Canadian River valley. And in the 60 miles west of Oklahoma City only one bridge crosses the Canadian River on the north that can keep you on any kind of westerly tract. That’s at Thomas. The closer bridge only gets you down to the interstate and it will be clogged full at that point.
So you make it to Thomas overland on the secondary roads.
What now?
You now have a dozen or more large creeks all running southerly into the Washita River. You have to cross them if you continue cross country.
Yes, you can get on Highway 33 west but I would guess that many others will have the same idea.
You also have Foss Lake complex and its National Wildlife Refuge area to get around.
Another major obstruction.
Going west now on secondary roads you will notice the interstate drifting in a SW direction. You are getting further away all the time.
Backtrack: What did you miss on the map? By the way, what map am I now looking at?
A copy of a DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer
[Get one for your state, and contiguous states].
You missed the railroad bridge. Where?
Find Bridgeport between Hinton and Geary. See the railroad track symbol where it crosses the river.
Now, the following separates the men from the boys. When I was 16 my buddy’s father was the Missouri Pacific’s depot agent in Larned, Kansas. We knew the train schedules. We conquered our fears and put my 1948 Dodge car on the rails. Yes you can drive down the rails. You do not have to let the air out of the tires. Just slow down when you go over road crossings and switches. We rode the rails for miles. We even crossed over the Arkansas River railroad bridge. That was scary to think about the wheels coming off the rails way out over that 150 yard long bridge. But we drove this way, and so can you.
You will need to be very cautious doing this. Sending people ahead with radios to the top of a close high point so they can see the tracks some miles away. Giving you time to cross. What speed can you expect to make? We used to cruise 10 to 15 miles per hour. My 1948 Dodge had a traditional hand throttle that you could set.
[JWR Adds This Proviso: Hy-rail pickups and dedicated speeder vehicles have been previously discussed in SurvivalBlog here and here. Please read those article and heed the safety and liability warnings. Riding rails on car tires without supplementary alignment aids is foolhardy. There is a lot that can go wrong in a hurry! Don't attempt improvised rail travel this unless it is an total SHTF disaster situation and there is absolutely no alternative, and only then with someone playing "ground guide", and with certain knowledge of the train schedule (or by doing so only on a rail line that is known with certainty to be inactive.)]
This is dangerous. Be careful. It is also illegal.
The thesis of this presentation is several fold:
1. There are no extensive long parallel roads along most interstates.
2. You must have a set of the DeLorme atlases or similar detailed maps for where you are going. Better to have a set for every state that surrounds you. If you live in the prairie states get a set for every state within two states in every direction.
3. You also need to have a map showing just the counties and the river systems.
4. You must drive you routes in advance on both sides of the interstate.
Note that Item #3 above is necessary to have a map of the rivers. You can plot a general route that will keep you on the uplands/divide between the river/creek systems when you cross country.
The system described here is good only for the plains states between the Rockies and the Mississippi River. It will work in the area between the Missouri and Mississippi further north in most of those areas. But once you get into the Ozark highlands, the southern deserts off the Rocky Mountains and in the swampy country next to seashores and the Southern States it does not work.
Nor in the Appalachian mountains. The west coast is another whole problem.
The central portion of the US, the prairie states have a grid road system laid out in township and sections. This allows a great amount of choice for travel. Areas that do not have this system are much more constrained as to overland travel.
Driving cross country you will find [some straight] dirt and gravel roads that can be negotiated at 45 to 60 miles an hour. Be cautious and slow down at every road junction and at the crest of all hills that you cannot see over. Some where out there you will crest a hill and find a slow tractor pulling a swather or a large combine with a 20 foot wide head on it suddenly in your way. You must use caution on these back roads. Do not assume that all dangers are marked. You may find dead end roads just over a crest with a 4 foot tall wall of dirt and a deep ditch in front of you at 55 mph. Crash, end of journey. Be careful of bridges. There are still may bridges out there with wood decking. It can be weak, have nails sticking up and or tire wide gaps in them. I have also seen concrete bridges built by the WPA in the 1930s with holes in the deck more than two feet across and not marked with any warning signs.
Vital equipment for cross country driving:
1. Binoculars or spotting scope
2. Weather scanner
3. Maps
4. Jacks with wooden blocks to put under them for support.
5. Shovels
6. Tow chains
7. Tire chains.
8. Bolt cutters and wire cutters
Beware of sudden rain showers on dirt roads. Soils high in clay particles will shed rain and appear to be shiny. They are called ‘slick spot’ soils. You will not sink into them. But rather your vehicle will just want to slide over into the ditch if the road is not flat. These roads are slick! It is possible to put a vehicle into a low gear; get out and walk along the side steering and pushing or pulling sideways to keep it in the center as you walk along. Better when there are several people to help. I have accomplished this for stretches of road further than one quarter of a mile when I worked as a District Conservationist with the Soil Conservation Service.
Avoid showers in the distance. Drive out of their way if possible. Stop on a stable section of road and wait for the sun to come out. Slick spot roads can dry out in one hour or less and be drivable as if no rain fell there for days.
Genuine cross country driving:.
If you find roads blocked with wreckage, power poles, washed out bridges, trees and or a group of freebooters who demand tribute, then you need to have thought of an alternative.
There is an alternative to simply turning around and being chased.
Cut the wire on the fence and drive away out across the land. Best done out of site of the freebooters. Wire the fence back up so it is not too obvious that someone has exited the road at that point. You will need bolt cutters. A 24 inch pair will suffice. For chains at gates or locks you need a 36 inch-long set and a hacksaw blade with extra blades. Carry along several locks. If you cut off a lock replace it. If you have to come back you can open it quickly and lock it putting a good barrier between you and any belligerents that want to discuss the situation with you.
If you lack a lock that looks like the one you have cut. Super glue it shut. You can always re-cut it a second time if necessary.
Carry with you two 2x4s that are 10 feet long, each pierced with 20 penny nails arrayed close together. Drill holes that are just small enough to provide the friction to seat the nails so they will not come out easily. Drill two 5/8 inch holes in each end. Cut half inch rebar stakes 12 to 16 inches long and sharpen then to a decent cone shape on one end. You will need a 4 pound hammer to seat them into a roadbed.
So, say that you approach a hill crest slowly and glassing the road ahead, you see a group of freebooters down the road. They see your heads and cab of a pickup sticking up over the crest. Whooom, here they come. Get out the spiked 2x4 and nail it down across the road with the rebar. Leave and when they come roaring up over the crest their tires will have lunch with the spikes. Flat tires have a way of ending pursuit.
If you encounter groups of people who are belligerent but appear not to be shooters. Place a spiked 2x4 across the front of your steel safety grill and make a run for them. They will not want to get spiked as you go by. It will keep them away from the windows and doors.
[JWR Adds This Proviso: Caltrops have been used as a defensive
measure for centuries. I have my doubts about their utility in
daylight, but they might prove useful at night. To be useful in daylight
for defense against vehicle-borne looters approaching a retreat slowly,
caltrops or tire
spikes would have to be concealed, which is a huge
legal liability.
Because we live in very litigious times, I DO
NOT recommend
using caltrops or tire spike strips in in anything but an absolute
worst-case TEOTWAWKI situation,
where you
are completely
on your own to defend your retreat, and there is no longer a functioning
law enforcement or court system. Using them in any lesser situation
is an invitation to a hugely expensive civil lawsuit and possible
criminal sanctions. An ambulance-chasing attorney would have a field
day, and the likely result would be that you would lose everything
that you own in settling a lawsuit. Ironically, this is an example
of where using
deadly
force
against
an intruder (namely, a firearm) is less likely to result in
a lawsuit than a non-lethal weapon. Civil court juries tend to be very
sympathetic
to
"maimed"
plaintiffs,
and are prone to award disproportionately huge "pain and suffering"
damages. Caltrops and tire spikes are banned in some states in the US, and
Australia. With all that said, commercially
made caltrops are available, as are tire
spike strips, although most manufacturers will only sell them
to law enforcement agencies ordering on department letterhead. The
best
of these use hollow spikes, so they can defeat even self-sealing
tires. And example
of this type is the HOllow-Spike
TYre Deflation System (HOSTYDS), manufactured in the UK.]
Crossing Interstate Highways
All interstate roads will have at some point a significant water gap.
It will be big enough for you to drive through. Be very careful. These can have plunge basins formed on the down stream side that are many feet deep. Can be clogged with old fence wire and tree limbs. They can be swampy and full of washed in silt that is solid on the top and unstable to support weight underneath. You can get stuck and never get out.
Scout these places carefully.
Remember you may be driving under the interstate that is packed above with people who have gotten desperate.
And you may be able to just drive up to the interstate, cut a fence on one side and drive across weaving through parked cars, perhaps, if you are lucky.
Get the maps. Study them. Drive the [primary, secondary, and tertiary] routes. Anything less is a modified death wish.
Rule #1: Leave early.
Rule #2: Remember, you can never schedule an emergency.
- JC in Oklahoma
« Letter Re: Portable Oxygen Condensers |Main| Note from JWR: »
Escape From (Fill in Your City Here), 2009, by Bill in Chicagoland
I think as a boy my favorite stories were always about epic journeys or quests.
I always saw myself as the lone hero; bravely making his way through a barren
landscape overcoming impossible obstacles and having fantastic adventures along
the way. As preppers I think many of us still believe that WTSHTF our trip
to “Get out of Dodge” will be an adventure such as those we read
in books. I’m afraid however; the reality will be much grimmer than we
can imagine. I fear that it will be more like The
Road
by
Cormac McCarthy or the recent novel One
Second After by William R. Forstchen , than anything else.
I live in the Chicago metropolitan area, yes far behind enemy lines so to speak,
and have been a prepper for most of the last 10 years. Like many of us I must
live in a big city because of my job. I need money to survive. Living here
is no big deal if you learn to ignore the local politics. My kids are grown
and I have no long-term attachments here. If the world falls to pieces I always
felt I could leave in an instant. I have the requisite pick-up truck, keep
it full of fuel, pre-positioned much of my supplies with my son at a relatively
safe location in a small town (population 5,000) about 600 miles from here.
I’ve
got my G.O.O.D. bag packed and I’m ready to go when ever things go south.
Or am I ready?
Let’s review my bug-out plan. Wait a second, I have no plan! This blinding
flash of the obvious hit me as I was stuck in rush-hour traffic last Friday
evening on my way to my son’s. It took me nearly three hours to get from
my apartment on the far north side of the city to I-80 on the far south side.
This was the route I assumed I would take to skedaddle. Think about that; I
was on Interstate highways the whole time, leaving at 8:00 PM, and it still
took me nearly three hours to go less than 80 miles. What’s really scary
is that I was thinking all along how light the traffic was. I had no alternative
routes in mind. Yikes!
Well, I’ve got to tell you this dear readers,
that realization scared the bejeebus out of me. I was so unready to bug out.
I had the stuff, the means,
the mindset, etc., however, in a meltdown near-panic situation, I would’ve
have been just one more member in a stream of hundreds of thousands of refugees
fleeing the big city. This experience got me off my duff and forced to review
what I will do when the next shoe drops in our ongoing economic nightmare.
I drew up a list of what was necessary to implement an action plan to “Escape
from Chicago 2009”
1. Have a bug-out kit ready at all times
a. No problem I have a bug-out bag packed and ready to go. No last minute packing
required. However; I hadn’t checked it in quite some time and when I
did I found plenty of things to replace and replenish. Batteries lost their
charge. Foods had expired. So did many of the common medications I packed.
BTW, I also now have a 72 hour bag with me whenever I leave the house. You
can never be sure when the worst thing you can imagine will happen.
2. Bring as much as you can with you.
a. Unlike many of you, I am not a man of any particular religious belief system.
However, like most of you, I feel what makes us truly human beings is our compassion.
I have to say that I don’t think while bugging out, I could look a frightened
hungry child in the eyes and say no - nothing for you. Bring more than you
need. If you don’t need to share then all the better; there’s more
for you when you reach your destination.
3. No stopping to buy last minute items.
a. If it’s so bad you need to be bugging-out do you really think others
don’t know that and are at that very minute stripping the local Wal-Mart
clean? During the Los Angeles riots in 1992 and Hurricane Katrina in 2005,
the grocery stores were near impossible to get to and if you could, it didn't
matter;
they
were closed, or had been looted, and were empty. Also, shop owners, for example,
may attempt to defend their stores with firearms (a la the Los Angeles Riots)
and you don’t
want to be caught in the crossfire. <Sarcasm on> I know, I know, Chicago
has very strict gun laws so there won’t be any shooting except by a few
gun-toting NRA/survivalist types <Sarcasm off>.
Finally, one interesting image comes to mind when I think of someone “liberating” goods
from a Wal-Mart. During the Katrina emergency I recall seeing a video of a
very obese woman wading through chest deep flood water, polluted with who knows
what, holding a Dyson vacuum cleaner she had “liberated” over her
head. No electricity, no home, no floor for that matter, but she had an expensive
vacuum cleaner she had probably always wanted. Also, an interesting side note
is the lack of bookstores looted.
4. Be sure to “Right size your bug-out vehicle
a. Simply put, don’t try to put a 10 gallon load in a 5 gallon bucket.
Have a big enough vehicle to accommodate what you need to bring. If you have
too much stuff, try to pre-position the bulkiest and heaviest items ahead of
time. Be sure to leave enough room in your vehicle for people and pets. If
you can’t pre-position the bulkiest stuff at the far end; consider renting
storage space in some small town along your intended bug-out route. If necessary,
keep a small trailer at the midpoint as well. Also remember that unexpected
things may/can/will happen and you will need to change your plans accordingly.
Therefore, only the non-essential “nice to have things”, not the
essential for survival things, should be stored at waypoints along the way.
5. Don’t oversize your bug-out vehicle
a. A corollary to the above is having a vehicle that is too big. Big is not
always better. We’ve all seen in footage of the highways during the Hurricane
Katrina and Rita emergencies. Massive Gridlock. If/when you need to get off
the highway onto a secondary road you’ll need to know if your Jumbo Superbago
or SUV with the extra-long Airfoil trailer can negotiate any tight turns and/or
low clearances on your Plan B, C, and D routes. I don’t even want to
discuss how much fuel bigger vehicles consume.
6. Expect no fuel to be available along the way
a. My Dodge pickup gets 18 mpg fully loaded and I have a 22 gal fuel tank.
For those of us who are lacking the math gene; that works out to 396 miles
per tank and my destination is 600 miles away. Hmmm. That means I need an additional
10 gallons or so. Three options present themselves; get a larger fuel tank,
carry gas cans, preposition fuel along the way.
b. Option one is too pricey $1,000 plus in my case.
c. Option two means using three 5 gallon gas cans. The problem here is that
in order to be prepared to leave at any moment; I’d need to keep them
all full. My biggest problem here is where to store them. As I mentioned, I
live in an apartment so that’s really not an option I’d use except
in the direst circumstances and I’d hate to leave them in my truck either.
I’ll have to figure this one out.
d. Finally, Option three requires storing them at waypoints along the route.
This is a so-so solution. The primary route may change and you can’t
count on being able to get to it before you run out of fuel. Secondly, most
storage faculties have a serious prohibition on the storage of flammable, toxic,
or explosive items.
7. Enough cash or “realistic” barter goods for a few weeks
a. This is one area that I can’t really give any solid advice. Who knows
what’ll be acceptable legal tender or barterable goods. You always read
in the “Survival Canons” that certain barter goods will be useful.
Honestly, I can’t imagine some 7-11 or Wal-Mart clerk accepting pre-1965
silver or ammo for the loaf of bread or gallon of gas I want to buy. Not in
the first few days first anyway. I’d suggest that initially, good old
greenbacks will do. How many to bring is the big question ($500 $1,000? Fives,
Tens, or Twenties?). I can almost bet that by the time the Schumer hits the
fan, most, if not all, banks will be shuttered for a "Short term-bank
holiday” and ATMs will likewise be shut down . “No checks please.” Inflation
may be rampant and gouging will be the name of the game. Remember Dan and TK's
trip in "Patriots"
? $50 a gallon for gas may not be too farfetched.
8. Route selection
a. Take your time starting tomorrow and carefully route the best escape route
you can. Note that best doesn’t always equate with fastest. If the shortest
route takes you through, or by, a major urban center, you’re just jumping
from one frying pan into another. Use your GPS en-rote to see what other routes
are nearby. Use on-line mapping software, on-line (Google or MapQuest) or a
PC or Mac-based routing program. Test different routes and compare times and distances.
Most of better routing software also shows gas stations, food, Wal-Mart’s,
etc., along your route. Learn to use the software now; not when it’s
crunch time. Again, Dan and TKs trip in "Patriots" .
Parallel routes to the Interstates perhaps?
9. Expect Societal Breakdown
a. Don’t count on your neighbor’s good intentions. Yep, you know
which neighbors I mean. They’re the ones down the block with all of the
expensive toys who had nothing put aside for an emergency and now are demanding
you provide them food, water, and even transportation. Be prepared for incidents
of aggression, attempted assault, and theft of supplies. You may need to resort
to serious means to defend yourself and your loved ones traveling with you.
(I hate to keep referring to "Patriots" but the description of the Laytons'
harrowing trip out of Chicago will be much truer than we care to think. )
b. Be especially wary en route. When you stop for whatever reason, you may be
approached by others wanting food, or fuel, or other essentials. Help those
you feel are truly desperate to the best of your ability. However, you may
have to be rather aggressive to deter insistent requests by overly aggressive
fellow refugees. This is a good time to be traveling with like-minded, security-conscious
friends, so that all concerned can provide mutual security and back-up.
10. Trust but verify
a. I was originally going to title this section “Trust no one”,
however, I feel that is just a bit to cynical. There will be those you meet
along the way who are true Samaritans. But, there are also those may have few
if any compunction related to “liberating” a few of your items
as a donation for their efforts. Or, in the worst case, there will be some
full-blown predators out there masquerading as shepherds waiting for the sheep
to come to them. Be wary of all help; including that from our friends in the
government.
11. Be wary of Government help.
a. I don’t know what will happen if I need to bug-out; but one thing
I can be sure of is that if you should stop for help at any government facility;
the first thing they will do is ask if you have any weapons with you. This
is pretty much standard police procedure in any case. The second thing they
will do is take any weapons you have from you. It’s as simple as that.
They will claim they are doing it for your own protection but you can be certain
you will never see your weapons again. Confiscating weapons was illegally done
in New Orleans and few of the confiscated weapons were ever recovered.
As unconstitutional as it was, they still to this day, justify taking the weapons
as being in the best interest of the public. Forgetting of course that they
were seizing the weapons of people least likely to use them against the forces
of law and order an all the while never venturing near the danger zones in
New Orleans where the actual goblins with illegal weapons resided. Additionally,
you can probably also be sure that they will also take whatever food, or other
goods you have that they deem necessary, to redistribute it among others who
weren’t quite so well prepared as you. How dare you greedy selfish people
who prepared have more than others who didn’t?
I hope that you will think about what I have presented here and do your best
to be prepared. I hope you all make it to your destinations safe and sound.
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Letter Re: Highly Productive Home Gardens »
Letter Re: Free GPS Topographical Map Software and Adjuncts
JWR,
I read the letter from Grant regarding free topographic maps and I have an
even easier method [if you don't need to download data into a GPS receiver.]
You can go to the
USGS web site and use the GoogleMap API to find the area that you want
a map of. Once you find the area, just click the "MARK POINTS" Radio
button and click on the map. The marker that shows up will have the option
of ordering
paper copies of the map for $6 or free download. You can download
your standard 7.5 minute topographic map in PDF format and if you also use
the free TerraGo Desktop (the USGS site has a link to it) you can use Adobe's
free reader to compute distance, calculate area, find elevation, find lat/long,
compute bearings, etc, all for free.
I've downloaded numerous maps and they're all excellent quality. It's the best
source I can find for free maps and it's courtesy of the US Taxpayers. - LexNaturalis
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Free GPS Topographical Map Software and Adjuncts
Jim,
Maps are something I have a lot of fun with. I wrote up a blog post on
free online mapping centered around topographical maps that if you haven't
already
encountered these tools you might find it interesting. In
a post at Gear Addicts, I cover how to acquire free topographical maps,
as well as using the topo maps in conjuncture
with
programs like Google Earth, and NASA World Wind. Making a free and in some
ways superior replacemnt for expensive software by National Geographic
and Garmin. Regards, - Grant
« Letter Re: Storing Peanut Butter |Main| Emotional Stressors During Societal Collapse by Campcritter »
Letter Re: Our Hurricane Rita Evac Proved a Point--Timing is Everything!
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I was in Kingwood Texas, a suburb of Houston, and as keeping an eye on the
Hurricane Rita projected tracks. When the "yellow cone of death" was
centered squarely on Houston, I started to seriously access my situation.
That Tuesday evening, everything still seemed sort of normal. The wife came
home from work about 5 p.m. and we took the dog for a walk around 6 p.m.
When we passed the local gas station that normally has 0-1 cars in it and
there
was a line 10 cars deep, I knew it was "time." I told the wife
we were now implementing our "vacation" plans for Tennessee, and
would be leaving as soon as I had the trailer re-packed. I brought the essentials
and things I couldn't live without if there was no Houston to come back too.
For example, I brought the computers but left the monitors. (Monitors are
replaceable, the hard drives and info on them, were not.)
We were wheels rolling by 9 p.m. Tuesday night, straight up Highway 59, with
hardly another vehicle in sight. Just us and about 200-400 deer through the
night, all headed in the same direction, that was weird... By Wednesday morning
we were eating a lovely and peaceful Cracker Barrel breakfast about 20 miles
East of Nashville and the waitress told us that Houston was basically having
a riot on the freeways. Timing is EVERYTHING! We were 12 hours
ahead of four million people leaving on the same roads, headed in the same
direction.
I learned that deciding to bug out is like deciding to take in a reef in your
sails when sailing that is: if you're seriously considering it, then you should
actually be doing it.
All the best and God Bless, - Edward T.
« Letter Re: Learning Beekeeping is Worthwhile for Self-Sufficiency |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Aids to Mapping Your G.O.O.D. Routes
Mr. Rawles,
I appreciate everything you do to keep everyone working toward preparing. To
that end I would like to supplement your notes with a product I have been
using for a few weeks now that have greatly improved my
Get Out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.)
plans.
Along with US Geological maps I have used the excellent Delorme Atlas and Gazetteer
to plan my back road escape routes. Recently I found that they now offer ($29.95
plus the cost of the software) an "all
you can use" annual subscription to their entire map collection in
digital format.
Unfortunately you do need software (Topo USA or XMap) to utilize this product
but many hikers use this software so it is not a "one trick" software
product. With the software you can trace routes and save them for printing
and uploading to the Delorme GPSes.
Software is pretty complicated so I recommend setting aside some time to learn
it to get the most utilization.
These innovations have significantly improved my escape plans with alternate
and fall back routes. Aside from the GPS routes I have printed out high resolution
color maps using iGage
water proof laser paper.
Once you have timed the routes in various traffic conditions. Put a detailed
map copy in each BOV and
another in the family BOB.
These give us options, as well as providing the all-important putting
a plan in writing step.
One Tip: The departure rush from major sporting events [at
large sports venues] are not bad for simulating the traffic snarls in an emergency.
you can improve your options to lock down agreed upon routes.
Regards, - JNC
« A Know-Nothing Gun Buyer Illustrates a Fatally-Flawed Approach to Preparedness |Main| Making the Transition to Country Life, by Bois d'Arc »
Letter Re: Navigating by the Stars
Jim,
I’ve recently been brushing up on some skills; one of them was navigating
by the stars. If you’re not sure what you’re looking at it can be
difficult to test yourself, I found a
web site that is very useful for double
checking your knowledge. - Edward K.
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Real World Observations on Fighting Crime and Criminals, by Eli »
Letter Re: Gaining Situational Awareness and Old-Time Knowledge
Jim,
Situational Awareness has a number of definitions, from the rather complex
to the "simple". They include:
- The process of recognizing a threat at an early stage and taking measures
to avoid it. (Being observant of one's surroundings and dangerous situations
is
more an attitude or mindset than it is a hard skill.)
- The ability to maintain
a constant, clear mental picture of relevant information and the tactical
situation including friendly and threat situations as well
as terrain.
- Knowing what is going on so you can figure out what to do.
- What you need to know not to be surprised.
This comes to mind because of my recent reading of your novel, "Patriots".
(An excellent book. A must have for any "prepper".) The book
is primarily about a group of people who joined together to survive in the "days
after". The daily requirements of surviving in times of roving bands of
criminals and martial law enforcers were covered rather forcefully. Many of the
challenges they faced required an armed response, and situational awareness was
often discussed. For the kinds of situations in which the "Patriot" folks
found themselves, the extremely helpful explanations of such matters as OPSEC and
LP/OPs are very helpful to anyone facing what is soon coming for many of
us.
As the book describes, situational awareness is absolutely vital to survival
and success in our near future.
But, while situational awareness is most commonly thought of as a conflict skill,
there are also other kinds of situational awareness. On Yahoo Groups, there is
a discussion group about surviving in the days after. One of the most prolific
writers has several times recently warned the readers to "Get out of the
cities now !". He's even suggested moving to very unpopulated areas and
using wood pallets to erect shacks. IMHO, this is a suggestion that will cause
many people great harm. Folks, with little or no preparations, suddenly moving
to the land to escape the "Golden
Horde", will likely fail or die.
Just reading the stories of the many pioneers who moved west, will quickly sober
you up from any "can do/don't know" thinking.
I have lived nearly all my life on a farm. I have developed a deep knowledge
of the land. It has come at the great expense of many missteps, failures, successes,
hard work and time. I call it having situational awareness of the environment.
I know what certain kinds of clouds mean when forecasting tomorrow's weather.
I know that the vine-like plants with three shiny leaves aren't so good to eat
or touch. I know a dead snake can still bite. People just coming to the land
for
the first
time will have little of that knowledge.
For untold years and many generations, the knowledge of how to live on the land
and be self-sufficient was passed down thru families. In farm country, school
was often found at the back fence. If you or your Grandfather didn't know something,
the farmer next door often did. I remember many times in my youth when I'd be
out working the land and the guy next door would be out on his. Often as not,
we'd stop and stand by the line fence and talk. ...And I learned lots. But, now,
much of this passing on of knowledge is lost. Farmers more commonly sit 12 feet
in the air, driving an air conditioned combine, following the turns suggested
by the GPS receiver
on the dash. Your parents most likely worked in a factory
or
a
shop, than on a farm. What was common family knowledge just a couple generations
ago,
such as maple syrup making, canning, gardening, butchering, animal husbandry,
etc., etc., is gone. The "chain" is broken. Without
this great deal of passed on knowledge and experience, nearly any farm endeavor
can, and often
will, lead to unexpected disaster.
This is where Situational Awareness comes in. "The need to know, so as not
to be surprised." The list is endless, but for starters:
- Knowing the good bugs from the bad in the garden
- Knowing fresh horse manure
will kill a garden, fresh chicken m. will help
- Knowing only 3 or 4 ounces
of yew leaves--a common landscape plant in much of
the US--can kill a horse
- Knowing how to split wood so that the axe won't
glance off and chop your leg
- Knowing that burning certain kinds of wood in
your wood stove means you need to clean the chimney twice a winter so you
don't burn down your house [with a chimney fire]
- Knowing the nice, fresh,
clean, free flowing, mountain stream may be full of giardia.
- Knowing that,
when plowing with a horse, you should never tie the reins together and put
them around behind your back so your hands are free to handle
the plow.
(This was the way it was done in the novel "Dies the Fire" [by
S.M. Stirling).
If your horse happens to shy and takes off running, you will be dragged along
the ground
and be seriously hurt. The proper way to plow is with the reins over one
shoulder and under the other. Then, if your horse runs, you just duck your
head and
the reins slide off.
- Knowing that crows in the garden are bad because they
eat the new planted seeds, but crows around your chicken coop are good
because they keep away
the hawks
that will eat your chickens.
- Knowing that if your tractor suddenly starts
making a new sound, this is not good. Stop immediately and figure out what's
going on, before something
breaks.
- Learning to look around you when walking, instead of only staring
at the ground for
your next step, (as most people do).
And on it goes. I have lived decades on the land. There's not a day goes by
that I don't learn something. But even with all my handed down knowledge and
hard-fought
experiences, I'm not even sure I could make a go of suddenly heading out
to the "country" to build a cabin and barn, till the soil, cut fire
wood, store food for man and beast, and more. It's just awful hard without lots
of prep's. And I can tell you, without an extensive knowledge of what the "environment" around
you is telling you, it's darn near impossible. ...(Taking a walk in the woods
can hurt just as much as a walk on certain inner city streets.)
So what are you to do ? Well, having a "G.O.O.D." bag
and great escape vehicle is a start. Having supplies, tools and seed already
in place really helps.
But once you get to your retreat site, have a plan, have some knowledge of how
to do, what to do. Practice now. If you think you're going to learn while living
in a wood pallet shack, you won't. You'll most likely die. If there's no more
Elders to ask, get to know the other "elders"--books.
Go to local farms and ask to spend time just helping, so you can learn something.
Go to a school to
learn skills; like tracking, orienteering and fire building without matches;
(one of the best, imo, is Midwest Native Skills Institute). Never take charcoal
or
lighter fluid on a picnic, learn to gather what burns. Go camping in winter,
instead of just when it is "pretty" outside. Find a "big animal" vet.
and ask to attend and help when birthing a calf. Most especially, turn off your
tv. Use your time to learn to sew, or knit, or make soap. Pick up (fresh) dead
animals on the road and practice skinning them and then tan the hide. [JWR
Adds: Needless to say, consult your state Fish and Game laws before
doings
so!]
Find
local crafts people
and
acquire
a
skill,
such
as
weaving,
or
candle
making,
or
tin
smithing, because having a survival trade in a cashless society may keep you
alive. Learn to listen. Throw away those darn ear plug music things. Learn situational
awareness. What is the wind telling you about the day ? What does the sudden
and not normal crowing of a rooster warn you of ? What does the setting of the
moon in a certain place on the horizon tell you about the season ?
Learn what it takes to live on the land, before you have to suddenly move there.
Learn what nature, the land, and new tasks are telling you, before you find yourself
in a difficult situation, ...(un)aware.
- Jim Fry, Curator, Museum of Western
Reserve Farms & Equipment, Ohio
« Letter Re: Riots in Greece Illustrate How Quickly Things Can Get Schumeresque |Main| Note from JWR: »
Dress for Survival Success by George Haystack
”Wherever you go, there you are." And hopefully so are your
clothes. Therefore it is vital to think of your wardrobe as part of your survival
gear on a daily
basis. It’s not good enough to have a closet full of BDUs and a piles
of high-tech gear if they aren’t near you when you need them. Most of
the crises that people face do not rise to the level of TEOTWAWKI and these
emergencies don’t come at convenient times. Events like building fires,
car wrecks, or muggings come at you when your just out living your life. A
firearms instructor once told me, “if I knew I was going to get into
a gunfight if I went out, I wouldn’t bring more guns, I’d stay
home.” The point is this: you don’t know when bad things will happen,
and you can’t stay home all the time, so a well-planned wardrobe and
pocket gear are essential at all times!
It is amazing to me that many people interested in survivalism will assemble
BOBs, GOOD kits, and build retreats in the hinterlands, and yet give almost
no consideration to the clothes on their backs. I have a friend who routinely
runs errands in his pajamas and slippers with nothing but his car keys and
wallet with him. I’ve seen men at the shooting range in beachwear! What
will they do if life throws them a curve? They will suffer, that’s
what. But why suffer if, by following a few simple guidelines, you can dress
for
survival success?
Choosing your clothing
Most people have different clothes for different events, but the rules for
clothing selection are the same whether you’re at a formal wedding
or at a summer barbecue. First, select clothing of high quality and good
fit.
Second, always choose comfort and utility over fashion. Finally, think of
clothing in tactical terms. How would they aid or hinder you in a crisis?
You want to ask yourself, “would I wear this to the apocalypse?” If
the answer is no, start over. On 9/11 thousands of New Yorkers were forced
to walk miles, in dirt and filth, with only the clothes on their backs and
the contents of their pockets and satchels. Think of them while you plan
your wardrobe. When they went to work that morning they could never have
imagined
what they would face that day, and most were horribly prepared. Men and women
alike were forced to walk barefoot because their dress shoes were not suitable
for what amounted to a several mile forced march. Most had no food or water.
Their clothing, particularly in the case of women, was more a hindrance than
a help. Learn from their mistakes.
The single most important consideration is footwear. Always choose a sturdy
shoe in which you could comfortably walk several miles over unpredictable terrain.
An above ankle hiking-style boot with a waterproof liner would be preferred
in most cases. Be sure to wear good socks made for hiking and suitable for
the time of year. Carry and extra pair of liner socks in your satchel in case
you must walk a distance on a cold day. Do not wear cotton socks! They hold
moisture next to your skin which will diminish your comfort and can speed hypothermia
if the temperature is low. If you are at an event that requires dress shoes
or flip-flops or some other tactically undesirable footwear, be sure to bring
good shoes and socks with you. Keep them in the car so that you will have them
in case of emergency.
Your undergarments should comfortable and weather-appropriate. Again, this
typically means no cotton! Wear silk or synthetics intended for athletic
use. If you must wear a tie, wear a clip on so that it cannot be grabbed by
an assailant
and used to strangle you. For this same reason, avoid necklaces, earrings,
and other jewelry. If it is attached to your body in such a way that having
it yanked out would cause pain, then lose it!
Pants and shirts should be loose fitting for mobility, well made for durability,
and have lots of pockets for gear. A number of companies make casual “tactical
clothing” that is very suitable. Choose styles that mimic normal street
clothes so as not to attract undue attention to yourself. Avoid bright colors
and striking patterns. Earth tones and simple patterns may offer a degree
of camouflage without screaming out, “look at me, I’m survivalist!” You
don’t want to attract attention to yourself if you can help it. Wearing
military styled clothing sends a loud signal to others so unless you want
to be thought of as the local John Rambo, stick with civilian clothes. If
you
must wear camouflage and live in a rural area like I do, you can easily get
away with the civilian hunting patterns like RealTree or Mossy Oak.
Always have seasonally appropriate outer wear with you or close at hand. You
may not think it will get cold, but unless you can predict the weather infallibly,
it is better to be prepared for the worst. Where I live in northern Minnesota,
people die every year because they get caught outside at night without appropriate
clothing. Hypothermia is a real threat in all seasons, not just winter! Have
a hat, gloves, and jacket nearby at all times. Choose a hat with a brim to
block the sun. This can be a boon in both summer and winter. Also make sure
the jacket repels moisture. As always, avoid cotton in favor of wool or synthetics.
Choose clothing made for outdoor activities such as hiking or hunting.
Choosing your gear
Gear falls into three categories: wallets, widgets and weapons. Each category
should be covered whenever you leave your home. It is tempting to overdo
it when trying to decide what to take with you when you head out of the house,
but there is a limit to what one person can carry! You don’t need to
carry your BOB with you wherever you go, just enough useful stuff to get
you through in a pinch.
Your wallet should not be thought of as a single accessory to your wardrobe,
but rather as a series of places to put important pieces of paper and plastic.
You will want to keep these things in separate places, and you want to keep
them to a minimum. There is no need to haul around a year’s worth of
receipts, business cards, and shopping lists. Routinely clean out your pockets!
Most people’s wallets contain far too much information about their
owners. Neither criminals nor the government need this information.
Ditch
it.
As to the necessities, I keep it simple: money, driver’s license, CCW permit, a few discount cards for places I frequently shop. You may need to
carry a few more items depending on your lifestyle. Spread this stuff around,
don’t keep it in all in one place on your body. I use a money clip for
small amounts of cash and my discount cards. My driver’s license and
CCW permit are clipped together in another pocket. As a side note, while driving
it is advisable to have your driver’s license, registration, and proof
of insurance in your breast pocket for quick access in case of a police stop.
You don’t want to have to dig around for this stuff and possibly call
attention to your “car gun” while doing so! Larger amounts of cash
should be carried in a money belt or a hidden pocket. A money sash worn under
your shirt can also be a great place for cash and important papers. Do not
place your cash in anything that may be left “off body” like
a purse or satchel!
The only actual wallet I carry is a decoy containing some of those phony
credit cards that come in the mail along with a few bucks. This is what I
would give
to a mugger by tossing it to the ground in front of me. Most criminals are
opportunists and will take a dummy wallet and leave you alone. If they don’t,
you can always resort to what I refer to as “Plan G.” I think
we all know what that is.
In addition to your important papers, you’ll want to be sure to carry
a variety of useful and fun widgets. The following are indispensable: a multi-tool
such as a Leatherman, a folding lock-back knife, a flashlight, and a lighter,
and a bandanna. I also always carry a Swiss army knife on a chain with a
Swiss army pocket watch, a pad of paper and a “write anywhere” pen
like the Uniball Powertank, and a compass. It is amazing how many people think
I’m
nuts for carrying a compass everywhere I go, but after taking a short hike
off-trail in an area I thought I knew well and becoming hopelessly lost for
a couple hours, I think it is indispensable. Other things that I typically
carry are small foam hearing protectors, a 3’ measuring tape, a bore
light (you never know when you’re going to encounter someone selling
a gun!), an athletic band to hold my glasses up, and a tiny back-up flashlight
and a few feet of paracord. One final thing that most people must always
carry is a set of keys. I like to carry my keys in a key silencer that hooks
on to
a clip that attaches to my belt. It is really amazing how loud a set of keys
can be, and a key silencer of the sort used by police can quiet them right
down. I sometimes carry a spare house and car key in one of my pockets. Keep
the number of keys on your key ring to a minimum. Do you really need to carry
the key to your dad’s garage when you only use it once a year? Leave
it in your car!
There are many electronic devices that you may want to add to your supply
of personal widgets. The only one that I consider indispensable is a cell
phone.
If you carry a cell phone you may find it useful to use its security feature
to require a code before it can be used, but keep in mind that this means
it can’t be used by someone else if you are incapacitated! Other items that
may be carried include small digital cameras, GPS units, and PDAs. If you value
security and privacy, you will want to remember that some cell phones and GPS
units can be used to trace your location. Obviously individual criminals can’t
use these features to track you to your retreat, but government criminals
certainly could.
For longer trips away from home you may want to include a few other items.
On the top of the “extended trip” list is a small pocket first
aid kit. They are available in a small size that will tuck nicely into a cargo
pocket. Consider including a few custom items that you may need but are not
included in a basic kit. Keep in mind that pills or tablets tend to turn to
dust when carried, so replace them frequently. Extended trips also call for
spare batteries for flashlights and other electronic devices. It is very frustrating
to suffer from dead batteries while away from home and have no replacements.
Some flashlights use batteries that are not readily available at convenience
stores. If you carry this type of light, spare batteries are a must. And don’t
forget to get a spare bulb!
When selecting your widgets, always choose high quality gear. The last thing
you want is a broken tool right when you need it. Buy the best, buy once.
Well, in some cases you’ll want to buy twice or even three times since redundancy
guarantees that you’ll have a functional specimen when you need it. I
typically carry three knives, two flashlights, and two guns. “One is
none, and two is one,” is a good principle to keep in mind. Select your
gear carefully and don’t be distracted by the dizzying array of options
we now have when it comes to pocket tools, flashlights, and electronics. Think
though your personal needs carefully, and choose accordingly. For instance,
many flashlights come with an aluminum case and a crenulated (ridged) bezel
so that they can double as blunt striking weapons. Do you need this type of
flashlight? Are you trained in this style of hand-to-hand combat? If not, perhaps
a different style of light may suit you better. One thing the manufacturers
won’t tell you is that these hardened aluminum bezels will saw through
your pocket in a few days. If you select such a flashlight, put it in a nylon
belt carrier!
As to weapons to be carried for self-defense, much has been written by those
far more knowledgeable than I am. Read and study the experts and decide what
is best for you. I have decided that my self defense needs are met by a Smith & Wesson
stainless steel J-frame .357 magnum revolver carried strong side in a paddle
holster paired with a lightweight J-frame .38 special rated for +P cartridges
carried in my off-hand front pocket. That way I have a gun accessible to
each hand. If you choose pocket carry, you should use a good quality pocket
holster
and you must not carry any other item in the pocket with the gun! I carry
at least one, and sometimes two, speed loaders of good +P .38 ammo that can
be
used to reload either gun. If you carry speed loaders or spare magazines
in a pocket, do not put anything else in that pocket. You don’t want
to be digging around in a pocket full of junk when you need a quick reload.
As
a backup to my firearms I also always carry a Cold Steel folding knife in
my strong side pocket. When I go to the “big city” I change up
the .357 to a Glock .45 Model 30 with a couple of full-capacity 13 round
backup magazines.
You may find that other weapons in the “use of force continuum” are
more suitable to your needs. Defensive pepper sprays, Tasers, stun guns and
kubotans form an important part of many self-defense kits. You may even consider
a defensive cane or walking stick. Whatever your personal protection strategy
may be, keep in mind that anyone who chooses to carry firearms, knives or
other weapons for personal defense absolutely must know the legal implications
of
the use of deadly force, and they must observe all safety rules all the time.
Do not become lazy and take shortcuts!
Satchels, packs and pouches
So how are you going to carry all the gear I’ve suggested? I find that
I can carry all my gear in a good pair of cargo pants and one belt pouch that
holds my flashlight and multi-tool. Most quality cargo pants have at least
six big pockets and a smaller pocket for a cell phone or backup magazine for
your semi-auto firearm. If I’m going on a trip and need some more extra
gear, I throw on another belt pouch and that solves the problem.
It can take a little time to become accustomed to carrying all this stuff.
I carry several pounds of stuff with me all the time, but since I’m used
to it, I hardly notice the weight. You may want to build up to a full load
one or two items at a time. Once you’re used to the extra weight, you
won’t notice it either.
Why not use a satchel, pack purse of some kind? Simple: You will leave it
behind. No matter how conscientious you are, it will happen eventually. Not
only that,
but such off-body carrying devices provide tempting targets for thieves.
Why risk it? The only exception to this rule relates to food and drink. I
always
try to have a water bottle and an energy bar close at hand, either in a fanny
pack or backpack. I don’t carry food and drink on me at all times, but
I’ve never regretted having a little sustenance close by!
What about one of those snazzy “tactical vests” with about 100
pockets? These vests are admittedly very handy and cool looking. You can
really load them up with gear. The problem is that when you wear one, you
look like
a body guard or a photographer who lost his camera. I prefer to keep a low
profile, so even though I love my Sig-Tac tactical vest, I usually leave
it in the closet.
I also find that getting dressed in a ritual fashion helps me to keep everything
in order and keeps me from forgetting anything when I change pants. I empty
pockets in order, one at a time. I place my gear into clean pants in the
same order. Have a place for everything, and keep everything in its place.
Once
you develop a pattern, stick with it.
Maintaining a “survival wardrobe” is a lot of work, and it costs
a lot of money. But it only makes sense that if we spend endless time and
energy preparing for the big, epic crises we should also put some effort
into preparing
for the mundane emergencies that we are much more likely to face. Lots of
little things can go wrong in life. When problems strike, having the right
gear in
your pocket can make a huge difference. Not only that, but I find that all
my gear allows me to help those around me, and that brings a reward all its
own. So fill your pockets with good gear, and dress for survival success!
« Letter Re: Determining the Best Pistol Ammo to Store for Barter |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Some Technologies for Retreat Security
Jim
I've put together a few ideas on retreat security that I haven't seen on your
great site. I may have missed them but I think they would bear repeating.
I presently
live near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, but will soon be moving to my 280 acre
ranch in central Nevada.
What got me to write this was a realization during my semiannual chore of
servicing the
emergency
generator.
Changing out the gas (It is also set up to run it on propane) changing the
oil, and testing the circuitry, I realized that what I thought was a good
setup
was
actually lacking.
I have always made the preparedness of our home priority. If a storm knocks
out the power, I go start the generator and switch the control box. My "Ah-ha"
moment came with the realization that if the power were ever cut intentionally,
all security would be off until after I'd expose myself to go start the generator.
Needless to say
corrective
action projects (remote start, auto control panels, and UPS battery
backup for the security system) are now underway.
Education has been mentioned but I realized that I hadn't seen much about
basic electronics. Learning how to make small circuit boards is really rather
simple,
and allows
you to make a lot of toys (equipment) for the homestead. A simple IR detection
circuit to let you know if someone is coming in under cover of night. A display
can show which sensors are being activated. This way you have a choice, whether
or not to let someone know you are alert
to their presence. Pressure [sensing] pads you can make yourself to show if
someone is standing behind that large boulder, by the barn, or shed. [JWR
Adds: Commercially-made
pressure sensing pads are far more reliable weather-resistant. Used ones are
sometimes sold as surplus by alarm companies.] How about a simple circuit that
is connected
to motion/heat sensors in the house
that
light
an
LED array that not only shows someone is in your house but on which
floor or in which room. There are electronics parts vendor sites like Jameco and
DigiKey and web sites
like Instructables.com, Makezine and
similar hobby and hacking sites that show all sorts of projects and skills.
When I
get my
next batch of wire I am setting small speakers to exploit a bit of human nature
by creating a brief sound to get intruders to look in a particular direction
and then two seconds later turn on concealed 500 Watt floodlights for a blinding
effect.
These floodlights will
be good
for
general
use as well. I mentioned pressure pads for detection earlier. One of the ideas
at the ranch was to place large cover objects at strategic points to funnel
a potential intruder to a place he could hide and I could remote view the opposition
at the same time. Mini cams and mikes and alarm pressure pads will give you
a heads up.
Since my ranch a long way from law enforcement protection, a remote
defense is also installed. Behind two of the boulders I had moved with the
rented dozer, I placed a small outcropping of rock in the ground so as to leave
nothing to hide behind but left a cavity in front to set plastic bagged SKS rifles
(sans stocks) [in mounting frames with solenoid-actuated triggers and] cameras
at the scope (which by the way is a great way to aim around corners) and the
aiming
is
done
by
remote
control
units
from
the hobby shop (or eBay). Solar power and small batteries keep things operational.
(I am sure the liabilities and legalities will be questioned, so let's say
the property is set up for installation after TSHTF).
Safety is important so the units are double switched, one to turn on the power
and
the
other to
control
and fire. The third unit is similar but I made a small bracket on the tree
behind the third cover position, laid in my controls, made a cloth skirt at
the base to allow movement and then used the foam
insulation in a spray can and made a foam cover to look like a branch
and spray painted with a couple of
colors
. This made it so invisible that a visiting friend couldn't detect it even
after I told him where it was. The cost for cameras, microphones, controllers,
and sensors
is really
small--from
under $2 for sensors to perhaps $25 for the others. What you pay big bucks
for is the labor and knowledge. But you you get that by turning off the television
and
exercising your brain.
[JWR Adds: Consult your state and local laws on "trap
guns" before
considering any such installation. Also keep in mind that any semi-auto firearm
that is triggered via solenoid might be construed to be a " machinegun" if
there is any way whatsoever that more than one cartridge could be fired by
a single press of the remote "trigger". Also, keep in mind that in
the US, Federal law that restricts not only barrel length but also overall
length for a firearm.
(Rifles
and shotguns must have a minimum overall length of 26 inches.) Multiply-redundant
safeties should be designed, as a well as a safe backstop for any bullets fired.
In
my opinion,
installation
of a remotely-fired gun should only be considered in absolute "worst
case" situations.
Their use in any lesser situation might very well land your in court, on trial
either criminally and/or civilly, in a very bad light that would doubtless
be exploited by
hostile attorneys.]
Before I leave this topic I would add that on the previous
mentioned
web sites and YouTube.com and Google video you can learn how to pick locks,
scavenge old camera parts, make and run a forge, start fires, throw flame,
make thermite, generate smoke and just about anything else you can think of.
Its like having a couple hundred mischievous people in your R&D department.
How about remote cameras? There are gadget sites, military and defense corporations,
and especially university sites have many ideas, for free, such as GizMag,
DARPA, and MIT.
One topic of interest is remote viewing. You can launch a hand held and nearly
silent electronic plane
and
view all points of
the ranch in very short amount of time without exposing yourself. It could
also be used to find wild game. [This is called "First
Person View (FPV) piloting.] Try
a web search on "remote FPV flying" and watch a couple of videos. The aforementioned
hobby
web sites
are
also a
resource
on
model aircraft information. [JWR Adds: Radio control aircraft
servos have numerous uses for folks with creative minds.] Prices range from
$300-to-$400 to as much
as $1,500 This can be applied to rc cars
adding
remote
microphone
and
speaker,
and
rc
helicopters
as well.
It
only took a couple of hours to get a real good feel for it,. But I should add
that I haven't yet flown it in high wind.
To set up [for security at] the ranch property I mapped out GPS way
points and used a range finder for all the prominent features. I would also
suggest
a
picture
of
the property
and the surrounding properties from Google maps . At several strategic spots
I planted some damaged concrete sewer pipes on end--I had obtained these
free for the asking--and made large lids for them with a plastic base and the
aforementioned spray
can foam to look like the landscape, with a hollow center so you could look
out small holes without moving the lid. Inside is water and there are a couple
of ammo cans for food, and
a small seat
and space blanket, iron oxide hand warmers which are also good for emergency
in your car and coat pocket or keeping vigil at a remote hide--[a small heat
source] can be the difference between bearable, frostbitten, or dead. I've
requested more
of the free concrete pipes be saved so that I can bury them between the house
and the barn and run a little shuttle
between the two buildings. Why not,? The price is right.
For structure fire suppression and prevention, I'll just mention these two
products as a one-time fire insurance policy: ThemoGel and
Barricade. Perhaps
at some point this could also be made a remotely-triggered function. I hope
you find some of this useful. - Erik
« Letter Re: Deflation Possibly Followed by Mass Inflation? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: A Suggested Checklist for Preparedness Newbies
Here's a beginner's list I made for my [elderly] father today:
Food
{Brown pearl] rice does not store well. Neither does cooking oil so that needs to be fresh.
No, Crisco doesn't count.
Coconut oil would be your best bet.
Wheat berries - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Beans - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Mylar bags
Spices
Salt
Country Living grain mill
propane tanks, small stove and hoses to connect
freeze dried fruits, vegetables, eggs and meat if you can find them.
Water
500 gallons
of water [storage capacity. Rainwater catchment is a common practice
in Hawaii]
Water filter
Cooking
Cast Iron Cookware
Firearms
FN PS 90
10 PS 90 magazines
5.7 handgun
10 FN 5.7 handgun magazines
5.7 ammo
Training: Front Sight four day defensive
handgun course. (Note: eBay sometimes has
course certificates for $100!)
Body armor: Nick at BulletProofME.com
Medical
Personal medications
Augmentin antibiotic
Up to date dental work
Painkillers
Bandages
Iodine
Anti-fungal spray
Finances
$10,000 cash in small bills
100 one-ounce silver coins (GoldDealer.com or Tulving.com)
Transport
Gasoline in 5 gallon cans or better yet, this.
Gas stabilizer
Mountain bikes
Air pump
Miscellany
Flashlights
Rechargeable Batteries
Battery
charger
Hand held walkie talkies
Topographical map of your area
Spare eyeglasses
Shortwave radio
Home generated power
12 volt battery system
Good backpack
Good knife
Good compass
Good shoes
Bar soap
Toothbrushes
Dental floss
Toilet paper
Fishing kit
Salt licks
Connibear traps
Regards, - SF in Hawaii
JWR Adds: The following is based on the assumption that SF's
father also lives in Hawaii: Because of the 10 round magazine limit for handguns,
I recommend that Hawaiians purchase only large
bore
handguns for self defense--such
as .45
ACP.
Both the
Springfield
Armory XD .45 Compact or the Glock Model 30 would both be good choices. The "high
capacity" advantage of smaller caliber
handguns
is not available to civilians in Hawaii, so you might as well get a more potent
man stopper, given the arbitrary 10 round limitation.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Finding a Family Oriented Survival Retreat »
Letter Re: GPS Receivers with a Back Road Mode
Jim,
In answer to the recent inquiry: I can't speak for other manufacturers, but Garmin's Mapsource software has
a setting for the road types along routes. I took my family on a camping
trip
a few weeks ago and we were on a single-lane dirt road for several miles
between paved roads. We saw a group of wild turkeys cross the road and numerous
deer bounding away as we passed.
Since this trip, I found the setting in Mapsource that the software uses to
determine road types. Click the "Edit" menu and select "Preferences" and
in the resulting dialog, select the "Routing" tab. There is a slider for "Road Selection" adjusting from "Prefer Highways" to "Prefer
Minor Roads".
I personally have the Garmin GPSMap 60CSx and wouldn't trade it for anything
else. I have had the unit just over a year and updated maps once from City
Navigator North America 2008 to City Navigator North America NT 2009. NT is
a smaller file-size allowing you to hold more maps on a single Micro SD card.
I use a 2-gigabyte card and have both sets of City Navigator and Topo 2008
for a good portion of the Eastern Seaboard. Updated maps are imperative as
roads are always changing, but Garmin does a good job of software releases
and bug fixes. - Reid
« Letter Re: Advice on Finding a Retreat |Main| Note from JWR: »
A Practical Guide to the Recon Patrol, by TMC
Okay, the stuff has hit the fan, you have made it to your retreat, and you
are geared up, stocked up and ready to survive. Inner security has been established,
with LP/OPs located at likely avenues of approach. You at some point will start
to wonder what else is out there, how far away it is, and what it means for
your group. You might want to start implementing the recon patrol. While I
could write what may very well be a small manual on the subject, I will just
put out the basics that will point you in the right direction to successfully
run a patrol. As most retreats will not be in the desert, I am using the normal
type terrain expected in a well selected retreat. Your mileage may vary. I
will also not go into detail on certain subjects that can easily be researched.
If I did, I would surely exceed any limit on how large a document on the subject
should be. Rather I will concentrate on things learned in the field,
not in any manual.
What exactly is a recon patrol?
Field reconnaissance is the gathering of information of your surroundings in
a stealthy manner. You will use this information to determine the safety of
your
current
position
and it will most likely be a determining factor for your daily operations planning.
Information gathered can give you an idea of opposing force (OPFOR) strength,
intentions, direction they are traveling and the likelihood of them coming
in contact with
your base element.
While much of the doctrine is the same a standard patrol, the recon patrol
is a bit different than a regular patrol. The recon patrol is to gather information
on your surroundings without making contact with other elements. That being
said, I have on occasion been ordered to use harassing techniques to slow down
or try to change the course of an element, which I will touch upon later.
Patrol Size
The size of a recon patrol is going to be smaller than the standard squad patrol.
You are trying to be invisible and the more boots you have on the ground the
more noise you will make. In my experience, a four person team is the size
limit which I would recommend. Three is the optimal number, and two being the
least that should
go out. This is in comparison with the standard squad patrol size of nine (if
you are lucky enough to have that many in your squad. [Even active duty military
units are often short of manpower versus their authorized strength under their
table of organization.]).
Patrol Equipment
Travel light, flee the fight. Unless you come across a solo element, you will
most likely be outnumbered and if compromised you will need to hastily retreat.
The preferred engagement ratio is 3:1, so bear that in mind.
Weapons
Take light carbines such as the M4 or Mini-14. I choose the AK-47 for myself
as I believe it has a lot to offer for this type of mission. Should you get
compromised, you will need to lay down a furious wall of fire to make the enemy
think they just encountered a platoon or a least squad sized element so semi-auto
is in my opinion a bare minimum. Larger weapons such as the M1
Garand or long
barreled assault rifles will slow you down as they are heavy and cumbersome,
but if
that is
what you have you will have to make do. Even though I sometimes carried a sidearm,
it would be better just to take a couple of extra mags for your primary. This
is much better added value weight. You should pack two reloads for your combat
load just in case you keep getting paralleled by OPFOR and have time to refresh
magazines.
The “light” part seems to be getting to be a stretch
with this type prep, which is why I stress lighter ammo such as 5.56 or 7.62x39.
The 7.62 NATO ammo gets pretty heavy with this type of packing and does not
add much value in a reconnaissance mission. If you do have a mule in your team
(a human
one) and he has skills with a sniper rifle, you may want to consider taking
it along
in an appropriate style carrier as a target of opportunity may come up that
may be just way too good to pass up. This does violate the "no contact" premise
of the recon patrol, but proper escape route planning can be implemented to
help with this scenario. Just a thought and should only be done by experienced
personnel.
Optics
Optics such as binoculars or [spotting] scope are pretty much necessities.
The further that you can stand off and observe your objective the better off
you are.
Binoculars
with some type of "flash kill" device are recommended. Also make these quality
optics that you are comfortable using. I don’t mean you have to buy a
$1,000 pair of Steiners. For under $40 at WalMart you can get Bushnell’s
10x42 hunting binoculars that are clear as a bell and very rugged. You can
use a sheer sniper veil over them as a kill flash. Rifle scopes are okay, but
require
that you expose yourself a little more than with binoculars. Generally, you
also have a better field of view with binoculars. In my opinion binoculars
are a better choice.
Food
You need to travel light, so try to keep this to a minimum. A recon patrol
should be fairly short, a day or two probably at most. If it is going to be
extended,then pack 2-1/2 times the food you think you will need. Utilizing
light foods like jerky that you can carry a lot of will go a long way. I learned
that one the hard way. When a two day patrol turns into six days that extra
little bit of "Pogey bait" is worth it and can be rationed. Also learn what
is edible
in your surroundings as this can help sustain your mission without being a
burden on your supplies. Take foods that need little or no preparation. Jerky,
trail mix, MREs
and foods of that nature are recommended.
Try to avoid foods that are particularly aromatic, such as curry, onion, garlic,
etc. I can’t tell you how many times I have found an OPFOR element’s
area of operations (AO) just by smell. While in Korea, I could find Korean
[troop] elements by their body odor due to their diet of kimchi sometimes up
to 400 meters away,
depending
on the wind and how long they had been out. This odor discipline also includes
cigarettes,
No smoking! Obviously colognes and other “smelly goods” have no
place on a recon patrol.
Communications
Radios should be carried but utilized only when absolutely necessary. Chances
are your patrol might take you out of radio communication reception distance
especially if you don’t have high power equipment. This is risky, but
sometimes necessary. You need to know the operating limitations of your comms
equipment
and operate accordingly. Designate times and places to transmit from if you
cannot [continuous] maintain radio contact during the patrol.
Uniforms
Camoflage should go without saying. The type will obviously be determinate on your
terrain and season. Burlap with proper color spray paint is a great way to
make cheap [outline] breakup for weapons. It can be manipulated to just about
any
terrain out there.
You can use [burlap strips] to throw off scent-detecting animals such
as dogs
by using fox urine or other types of masking scents. A very useful item indeed.
Helmets and body armor are optional, but I do not recommend them on a recon
patrol. The body armor is heavy and can impede your quick getaway. It merits
are known
factors in the safety of soldiers, but in this mission you need to be able
to flat out run if compromised. The ballistic helmet is also heavy, but its
main downfall is the fact that it masks your environment. It can impair your
vision and it mostly covers your ears and keeps you from hearing sounds that
may be the enemy. A boonie cap is the first choice, patrol cap is second for
traditional headgear.
Plan the Route
Route planning is essential. Pick a route that will minimize danger area crossings
and contact with high traffic areas. Do not use roads, rivers, trails or any
other obvious routes of travel. You may skirt these areas to view them. Never
plan a straight route. Use various patterns of travel such as zigzagging or
button hooking. This keeps the enemy off guard as to where you came from. Also,
should you think you are being trailed, do a wide 360 until you come back on
your own tracks. If you encounter more tracks than yours, then you are being
followed. React according to your [contact] SOPs.
Learn to use a compass and map. While GPS systems
can be useful tools, they are not always reliable and in a Grid
Down situation
may not even function.
Know this: the US Department of Defense owns all the GPS satellites and merely
provides data to GPS companies like Garmin so their GPS devices will work.
Should the
government
choose to, they can encrypt them at will and leave your commercial GPS worthless.
Learning how to use a compass and map can be a fun experience for everyone.
It can give kids and adults alike a great sense of accomplishment and help
get you or keep you in shape. Map and compass skills can trump a GPS any day,
and on many occasions I have been right on the mark while the guy using the
GPS has been wandering around waiting for the satellites to give him a decent
grid. Rely on basic navigation skills. Technology is a crutch for the weak.
Plan Actions
Make sure to plan out the time you are leaving, time to be on the objective,
time you will transmit information if necessary, and time you expect to be
back. Plan for contingencies, such as what to do if you make contact, where
to meet if you get separated, and what frequencies to be on at what time of
the day. Most of these will be dictated by your groups prior established SOPs.
Follow them.
Preparing for the Patrol
If you follow proper procedure when you leave the base of ops you will conduct
"stop, look, listen, and smell" (SLLS).
This is to get you oriented to your environment. However, I have found that
a short 10 minute halt like this is
not nearly as effective as having the recon team acclimate [to the natural
environment] over a day or so without
distractions such as television, radio, or any other man-made devices that
are not essential to ops. In a grid down situation this will most likely not
be
a problem.
Your
sense of smell, hearing, and vision get better the longer you are out. If possible,
do this and you will be much more inclined to pick up on enemy positions and
movement long before they pick you up.
Make sure all equipment gets inspected, including weapons and optics. Make
sure all equipment is quiet and free of protruding gear or things that will
snag on foliage. This includes weapons that have a multitude of “Mall
Ninja” gear hanging off of them. While it may be value added in a MOUT situation,
it is just more junk to hang up on vegetation and obstacles. Have each patrol
member jump up and down and run in place with their gear on to
identify anything noisy and use 100 m.p.h. [olive drab duck] tape or 550
[parachute] cord to lash
it down. Make sure food and water are easily accessible as you may be eating
on
the
fly.
Check for proper and complete camouflage. Get ready to roll, get your mind
right.
On the Patrol
Use your wits. Be aware of your environment, and anything that may not be right.
Learn to use nature to warn you of potential danger. Have you ever been close
to a squirrel’s nest in the woods? He will let you know you are too close
by making a lot of noise. This type of natural warning device can serve you
as well as hinder you. Be mindful of nature and learn to move in the woods
as part of your surroundings rather than against it. This takes time, is a
learned behavior, but can be done by just about anyone. Avoid sandy terrain
where you will leave an obvious trail. Use rocks and other terrain to move
while minimizing [leaving] sign and making noise. Be mindful of how loud your
footsteps are. That is a common mistake I see soldiers make all the time. They
don’t
listen to how much noise they are making. Learn to roll your feet. This can
be practiced around the house while doing chores. Just learn to walk quietly.
On the Objective
If you are doing an area recon, which is a specific area you want to check
out, make sure you spend the time you need on the objective to properly gather
intelligence. Walk a zigzag pattern to cover as much terrain as possible.
If you are doing a point recon, which is a recon of a specific target such
as a house or a point on a road, lay your team in collect as much info as you
can. Include info you would normally not consider important as later on down
the road you may find it useful. Remember, you can never collect too much intel,
but you can collect not enough. You can sort through what is important later
on when you have time to analyze the intel.
While glassing your objective, make sure only one member of each buddy team
is using binoculars, while the other keeps an eye out for anyone who may be
using a clandestine approach to your location. Use a notebook to write down
everything
you see.
Departure
When the allotted time on the objective is complete, always leave the objective
in a different direction [than from which you approached]. Pick up any trash
or tell tale sign of you being there. Brush over where you were laying, cover
any foliage
cuts
you
might
have
made. Try to leave no sign at all that you were ever there. Maintain noise
discipline on the way back just like you did on the way in. You are in just
as much danger going home as you were going out. Don’t get complacent.
Well, there you have it. You can research the patrol by using military manuals
and implement what I have written here for a successful mission. This will
give you a heads up on what’s out there and give you an advantage over
any element that may be inbound on your location. Knowledge is power, and if
you have solid intel on your enemy and surroundings, then you have
the tactical advantage. I hope this is of use to you.
« Victory in the DC v. Heller US Supreme Court Decision--With Some Reservations |Main| Notes from JWR: »
The Warrior Way as Survival Strategy: Attune Yourself to a Martial Mindset in Daily Living, by Jeff Trasel
One of the constant knocks by the mainstream media on the preparedness movement
is the oft-touted canard that preparedness, indeed the “survivalist” mindset
is nothing more than an excuse by far-right loons to engage in Rambo-esque
fantasies of firearms, firefights and macho posturing. While there is a scintilla
of truth to this in some far dark quarters of doomsday lunacy,
it is for the most part fiction. (This matches JWR’s caveat on discussing
unregistered suppressors [in the US] or other illegal preparations). So that
we bring no discredit on what is nothing more
than prudence, perhaps a few short observations can be proffered here so those
of a serious nature can learn to assume a proper martial mindset without resorting
to hysteria.
Preparedness, survival, or any other euphemism one can assign to our interest
is as much mindset as gear, land or other physical manifestation of prudence.
It is in itself a way of life that incorporates simple daily teachings, practice,
and when training, the incorporation of real-life situational aspects that
can better model an actual emergency scenario or a situation of social unrest.
Any competent defense professional will say that greatest advantage in warfare
is information, followed by logistics, then combat power. It’s no use
having the greatest army in the world if you don’t know where the enemy
is nor if you can’t you feed your troops. As Napoleon so famously postulated,
an army marches on its stomach.
So with those adages in mind, how does one
prioritize daily living to more readily understand these concepts? We all have
things we do on a daily basis, so the question of incorporation becomes one
of time management, especially given the marvelous source of information now
available in today’s 24 hour “always on” culture. For instance,
instead of perusing the morning newspaper or watching the morning breakfast,
find several reputable financial news sources such as the online versions of
the The Wall Street Journal or Barron’s. Start educating
yourself on how markets move, how seemingly insignificant moves in commodities
or futures,
such as pork or wheat can have a direct impact on your daily life. This also
gives you markers to start creating your own scenario planning data for acquisition
planning, and in the worst case, a timeline for moving to your retreat. American’s
are notorious for living in a bubble, in what is now a deeply materialistic
culture, and missing the obvious signs of downturns both in the US and abroad.
This new discipline has an upside as well, in that by becoming a more financially-aware
individual, you can make more informed decisions on how to manage cash flow
or even become a day-trader, freeing up capital for other, more serious purposes.
Understanding the world around you, looking at information as intelligence
rather than simple factoids and being aware of the bits and pieces that can
provide a different and in many instances, a more accurate picture of what
is really going on, is a skill that will pay one back in spades. Think outside
the box!
Next, personal fitness is a must. In any crisis situation, adrenalin levels,
stress, even physical injury can manifest themselves in a variety of ways that
can cripple or terminate the best laid plans. It is therefore mandatory that
anyone considering a preparedness strategy baseline their family health. The
advantages of this are twofold: first, it gives one an idea of how much exercise
they will need to incorporate into daily life to bring them to a level of basic
fitness of a recruit in the US Army, ideally the Marines, which is not as hard
as it may appear. Second, this will aid in identifying a medicine acquisition
plan for family members so you are not caught short in a crisis situation.
There won’t be heart or blood pressure tablets around if the mob has
burned all the Walgreen [Pharmacies]. Gun shows are great places to get surplus,
mil spec-quality first aid equipment, along with catalog houses that supply
paramedics or EMS personnel. The best book on the subject is the US Army Special
Forces Medical Manual, available anywhere, along with “Where There
is No Doctor” and “Where
There is No Dentist”. (I will
cover medicine in a survival situation in greater detail in another post.)
Learn how to take your blood pressure, especially pre- and post-exercise so
you understand the difference between resting and active pulse. The various
military physical fitness programs are all available on the web. Pick one that
you can realistically follow upon consulting your physician, and then be rigorous
in its application.
You want lean, endurance-based conditioning – not necessarily big bulky
SEAL-like muscles. I can remember from my [USMC Force] Recon days watching
these guys while with them at dive school, getting all bulked-up and then not
being
able
to
run worth a damn with my fellow Marines. You want endurance, endurance, endurance.
Muscles will come, and remember: shooting skills are as much a kata as a karate
movement and are technique-based on a solid, lithe platform. Incorporate a
martial art into your training regimen if possible. This can be a speed bag,
or large punching bag, dojo work, sparring with a partner or any other self-defense
program. These teach discipline, respect for the art, and most importantly,
stamina and situational awareness, all priceless skills in a crisis situation.
These types of activities begin to solidify the warrior mindset, and in solidifying
this mindset, you now assume the duty, indeed the responsibility to only use
these skills in the protection of kith and kin, and not as a license to bully,
cajole, or simply show-off. Many years ago my first sensei gave me an axiom
that rings very true: “One warrior may spot another in an instant. Be
it by the way he moves or by the way people avoid him. The problem lies when
would-be warriors and/or fools attack a true warrior. The fool may seem to
back the warrior down, but the warrior knows by instinct that he outclasses
the opponent and does nothing, or just kills.” By increasing you martial
acuity, you will soon learn to spot fools, an invaluable skill not only in
crisis situations, but in life in general.
Learn to live in the outdoors. Go camping or hiking with your family as much
as possible. Carry weight when you hike, so you get used to load bearing. Increase
it, and record you accomplishments. Not only is it great exercise, but it allows
for team-building activities and provides an avenue to understand group dynamics
and how task-oriented your family is or is not and what your personal and familial
endurance levels are and should be. Bring map and compass and learn orienteering
skills, and if possible, find the local orienteering club and go on organized
compass courses when you can. Land navigation is an invaluable skill along
with map reading (topographic – not your normal service station map of
greater Canton…). This was the greatest challenge when I attended [US
Army] Ranger school, the skills of pace-setting and azimuth shooting, particularly
at night.
Remember, you may not have the luxury of G.O.O.D. as
a family unit, so it is imperative everyone know how to find your retreat,
rally point, or rendezvous
site by azimuth and location. Moreover, in fleeing, you may need to alter your
route intentionally if pursued, and you will want to keep your bearings so
you eventually end-up where you need to be. This will help bond your family
unit, and help in math skills with kids. Thinking on your feet and being able
to understand where you are without navigational aids is the ideal. Hold a
rehearsal drill with a prize or incentive at least yearly. Also have a vehicle
plan that works on the same level – and here any of the relatively inexpensive
commercial GPS systems
can be a great help. However, don’t become reliant
on them, as they fail, they require power, and they can be tracked. Map and
compass are best – master them. Have your kids join the scouting movement
in your area as this will also provide an inroad to appreciating living rough.
I learned more about outdoor living in my 10 years of scouting than was ever
taught to me in the many schools (with the exception of S.E.R.E. – Survival,
Evasion, Rescue, and Escape) that I attended whilst in the military. Lastly,
get local
guidebooks that identify edible plants and animals indigenous to your potential
egress/retreat area. Again, take the family out and do some plant, bird, and
animal spotting. Knowing how animals behave – particularly what they
eat – can give you insight into how they react around humans, particular
those humans not know to them. Understand the ebb and flow of the environment
around your egress and retreat area. The warrior knows his terrain intimately
and it is a force-multiplier in a crisis situation. From the Art of War,
on the Varieties of Terrain for the commander: “if ignorant of the conditions
of mountains, forests, dangerous defiles, swamps and marshes he cannot conduct
the march of the army…”
We’ve now started to look at incorporate an intelligence gathering outlook
on life, followed by a fit state of readiness for the unexpected, now what
about conflict? Unless you live in a state that allows concealed carry, you
most likely will not have much experience in the carry of, or more importantly,
the skills of living with loaded firearms. The old soldier’s adage of
training as you will fight is key here: living with live weapons does not impart
a casual familiarity that can lead to tragedy, more so the understanding of
levels of readiness depending on the scenario. Combat pistol and rifle craft
will be followed in another post and there as many philosophies as there are
gurus. I subscribe to the school of Jeff Cooper and Mel Tappan, and readers
are encouraged to seek out their writings. Suffice to say, in regards to our
emerging warrior ethos, the idea is mastery, as a weapon is only as effective
as the mindset and situational awareness of the person wielding that weapon.
Begin to think of becoming one with your chosen piece; don’t choose a
combat handgun, rifle or shotgun simply on caliber and aesthetic appeal. You
want to ensure you have good grip control, eye relief (for rifles) and for
shotguns, that the stock fits snugly when snapping the weapon to your shoulder.
This is especially critical when fitting weapons for women and children. Your
martial mentality is the platform for that weapon to be effective so it is
imperative it feel comfortable. Next, find an air pistol and air rifle that
resemble your chosen battery. Rather than wasting ammo “snapping-in” on
the range (and fielding potential embarrassing and/or curious questions), use
these tools to get the feel for breath control, trigger pull and eye relief.
Use toy soldiers to simulate range. If you pick a particularly loud air rifle,
check local ordnances prior to beginning your training. I have used air pistols
in my garage for many years with no problem. Just ensure you have sufficient
target backing. You will be amazed by how well you shoot your live weaponry
once you’ve disciplined your stance, breathing and bench positions with
the air weapons.
One of the reasons I stress familiarity with a martial art is that all involve
a relatively similar pre-contact stance. That is, feet slightly wider than
shoulder width, a light bend in the knees coupled with a straight back and
slight relaxation in the elbows in a punching position. This easily translates
into the FBI “A” (“triangle,” “apex,” etc.)
shooting position when using a pistol. There are a variety of shooting stances;
find one you’re comfortable with and practice it until it becomes rote.
I like to shoot on BLM land where I can set up a loose range with a variety
of targets that can simulate a variety of situations. Moreover, one can carry
side arms “live,’ the most important part of the exercise. Always
use caution and appoint one of your group as range master. I cannot emphasize
enough the importance in warrior thought of acclimation to daily use of one’s
weapons. Each pistol, rifle and shotgun, and the associated ammunition and
accessories, all have specific, indeed quirky, characteristics that are best
discovered and addressed in a benign environment. Another advantage of the
informal range is practicing contact drills in the form of fast draw and point
shooting; again, topics for another time, but key to the mindset. In conjunction
with the mechanics of the draw and basic tactical levels (safe – elevated – hostile),
there is the consideration of dress and load-bearing equipment. We’ve
all seen pictures of militia-types and airsoft rifle enthusiasts kitted-out
to the nines, but in reality, no warrior worth their salt dresses in such a
poseur fashion.
Kit should be scenario, then mission-driven. It’s ok to mix commercial
and military gear, as it gives you the best of both worlds, along with adaptability
and more importantly, a covert OPSEC profile. One need not run around in camouflage
with chickenplate-enabled body armor and all the other stuff that goes with
such a mindset in order to present a hardened, tactical, preparedness profile.
Try running 10 to100 yard wind sprints with what you consider to be “appropriate” gear,
along with running up and down hills, pausing frequently to set-up a shooting
position, and you will soon see what gear is needed and what quickly proves
superfluous. Moreover, one quickly grasps the need for constant conditioning,
proper diet, and rest – again, train with the gear you intend to use
in your preparedness planning. Crisis situations entail short-burst energy
requirements, breath control, noise and movement discipline and a host of soft-skills
that are much more important than having “cool” gear. You may have
the slickest web gear, a trick battery of personal defense weaponry, and way-cool “digital” cammies,
but if you’re too winded to hold an aim point, too thirsty sucking down
water like there’s no tomorrow (and at that rate, there won’t be…),
or cramping and puking for lack of salt, you are now ineffective as a resource,
a drain on those dependent on you, and more likely dead, as you were not sufficiently
aware tactically, as you were too troubled sorting yourself out… The
warrior is ready at all times, and uniformly effective, regardless of time,
place, or contingency.
I rarely wore the same load bearing equipment (LBE) configuration twice, as
operational contexts were always different.
The axioms I lived by were simple
enough: keep your [front] belt area free of any pouches or protuberances; this
allows you to lie flush when rounds start flying; next, position you main weapon’s
magazine pouches on your side, slightly behind your hip or ideally, over your
kidneys, as again, when prone, they are easier to access without elevating
your profile. You drink more than you shoot, so canteens can be located at
the traditional hip pistol position; use [CamelBak-type water] bladders where
possible, as they are less noisy, hold more, and can double as a pillow, rifle
rest or
anything
else
you can come-up with. 1 qt. plastic mil spec canteens are fine, but I normally
carried them on my main LBE framed knapsack or butt back. Use mass to distribute
weight (your hiking with weight pays off here). If you do use them on your
waist belt, ensure they are positioned in such a way that you won’t injure
yourself collapsing quickly on the deck, nor are they in the way of your weapons
carry. Never attach a side-arm to an LBE belt that leaves your body. Drop-leg
pistol holsters seem all the rage, and for Close Quarters Battle (CQB)
and urban warfare, they have a place. In a retreat scenario, less-so, as they
will
hang on fencing, drag on brush, and hamper quick ingress and egress from vehicles.
Use good quality leather or black nylon (i.e. low-profile, non-martial appearing)
pistol dress when not in tactical mode, and again, wear it as often as possible
so it becomes second-nature. Shoulder holsters are good for this as well; just
ensure it fits, can carry spare magazines, and that you have practiced drawing
from the holster so it is not a liability. As to holster location, again, this
is personal preference, as some like to cross-draw (i.e. a right-handed shooter
holsters their piece on the left hip, magazine facing the target, and draws
across the body) or use the simple hip draw. [JWR Adds: The
disadvantages of cross-draw rigs have been previously discussed in the blog.]
Concealed carry
is much in the same vein, although by its very nature, you normally carry
a
smaller
weapon,
using a variety of purpose-built holsters on the arms, legs, inside the belt,
or small of the back. I like the small of the back myself. Constantly experiment
with your LBE until it is no longer “fiddly” and fits and works
the way you desire. Run in it, dive on the ground in it, get it wet, understand
how it behaves in a variety of circumstances. Use black electrical tape, or
ideally, mil spec“100 mph tape” (in reality, olive-colored gaffer
tape) to secure loose straps and to cover metal or plastic tabs or sharp edges
that might become noisy or otherwise problematic in use. Don’t use black
duct tape as it is too sticky and leaves a residue that gets on everything.
In recapping the warrior mentality relative to equipment, remember that less
is indeed more; the more you pre-place, the less you need in a bug-out kit.
Blend in and look "conformist" as much as possible, using situational
awareness, concealed carry, and normal attire when going about your business
in urban
and non-conflict
rural areas. Don’t depend entirely on surplus or new mil spec gear; use
the best kit for the job, but more so, maintaining a martial “look” may
draw the authority’s attention or encourage other fools of a tin soldier
mentality to take you on. Adjust your kit profile to the appropriate level
of security and risk and you should be fine. Lastly, you must reconcile in
your mind the concept of deadly force. Regardless of how prepared your scenario,
you may be forced to confront those that wish you harm, and you will die if
you start the mental ethical thought process at the contact point. Knowing
your tools, knowing where to shoot, and understanding the need to shoot will
allow you the upper hand when dealing with fools. Concise action can often
abrogate the need for violence; so again, preparedness can be as much a tool
of avoidance as much as kinetic action. Deadly force will comprise several
upcoming posts and I will also provide a topical reading list in the next few
weeks, addressing not only use of deadly force, but the warrior mindset, how
to plan and what constitutes strategy, tactics, and conflict. In the meantime,
start thinking about times you’ve been scared, or in a heightened state
of anxiety, or even shot at. What went on in your mind? How perceptive were
you? What physiological signs manifest themselves? How did you compensate?
In short, begin to analyze things from an angle of what you would do, say in
an airplane crash or severe auto accident – I call this reaction planning,
and it will save your life. Understand that danger has constants, just like
any other natural phenomena. The more you think of “what-ifs?” the
more you will be ready for crisis.
In closing, preparedness, like any other skill, is much, much more mental than
physical. The successful preparedness planner is in essence a renaissance thinker,
as you must understand and appreciate a variety of skills, and master the most
critical at least at a basic level. In creating this series of articles, I
will be working with a variety of assumptions: many of my readers will have
had some military or scouting background, and possess a passing familiarity
with firearms. You may have only just started to think about contingency planning,
and I encourage you to mine the marvelous resources of SurvivalBlog. Next,
that you have families, and you intend to incorporate your family or immediate
friends or relatives into your planning; also, you are in the early days of
simply trying to sort through the myth and reality of what the preparedness
movement and mindset entails, along with the commiserate moral, ethical, and
practical considerations one must entertain to not only thrive in a crisis
situation, but also maintain the social mores of being a good citizen, neighbor
and staying within the remit of reasoned law. And like a good scout: Be Prepared… Stay
tuned! - "Jeff Trasel"
« Four Letters Re: Sizing a Retreat AC Power Generator |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Unconventional Bug-Out Transportation Methods, by A. Taylor
I read with interest the inquiry about, what I term a "Bug out Boat".
I made this recommendation several years ago, in numerous survival forums.
Most
readers seemed unable to process the potential for this kind of plan or it
seemed to
be impractical
to them
compared
to hunkering
down or egress by vehicle. I would advocate that the more eclectic methods
of egress from chaos may hold greater potential for success than some mainstream
ones. Traditional modes of travel in the modern age are easily controlled by
the powers that be, accidents, infrastructure break down, computer problems,
electricity (can you say "grid down"?), etc. How many have actually
considered (much less planned?) on using the following practical means of getting
from
Point A to B (whether a short or long distance).
1. Walking- hard work but very quiet and stealthy. Drawback- slow.
2. Bicycle. As long as you can keep your tires inflated, you can travel [at
least] three times as fast than as on foot. Drawback- awkward to carry equipment unless you buy a trailer or stroller for the back.
3. Boat/canoe- Who is going to blockading the river or watching it? The river
does the work for you if your are going down steam. The preferred method of
choice for hundreds of years by Native Americans, trappers, traders, frontiersmen,
market hunters, settlers and soldiers.
4. Snowmobile- Don’t worry about the roads being open. Just try to follow
me in/on anything else. Drawback-seasonal.
5. Skis- No trail, no problem. Drawback-seasonal.
6. Motorcycle- Easy to get around that road block isn’t it? Just try to
follow me through the woods in your squad car.
7. Ice skates- many frontiersmen/trappers traveled this way up river systems. Drawback-Seasonal.
8. Roller blades-the modernized society equivalent of ice skates. Drawback-Seasonal and depends upon roads and sidewalks being in place.
9. Horse/Horse and wagon/Horse and sleigh - has both advantages/disadvantages, accessibility issues, and disadvantages, but you won't need electricity to keep them going. Drawback-you have to pay to feed/house them.
10. Dog sled- For those in the far North. Drawback-Seasonal.
11. Para-planes –fuel efficient, no license needed, can land in small areas.
12. Light aircraft- expensive but they are what they are.
13. Freight trains/barges/cargo ships- It seems no matter how much chaos a country descends into, occasionally a train, barge, cargo ship goes somewhere. Drawback-Can be Seasonal depending on low water levels, ice, snow.An undependable mode of transport to plan on using.
The reason you haven’t considered these methods is because we as Americans
are too d--n lazy and we carry around too much stuff. If your supplies are pre-positioned,
you will need very little physically on you.
We as Americans are pre-conditioned to think first and foremost of the family
vehicle almost exclusively. Unless you have a full tank of gas when the grid
goes down or an EMP-resistant
vehicle, you're screwed for any number of reasons. Your going to be thrust down
a channelized highway of horrors (just ask anyone
who has fled a hurricane inland). This highway can easily be barricaded by law
enforcement, the military, gangs, or a group of local idiots. Accidents, traffic
jams and lack of fuel will prevent you from getting out of the area at the speed
which you anticipated.
Not only may you be stripped of your dignity, you may be stripped of all your
supplies, valuables, clothes and chastity. If you are counting on the herd to
protect you from harm, I have news for you, they will readily look on while you
are assaulted (and hope it doesn’t happen to them) and/or they will participate
in plundering your belongings (see Katrina stories). If psychologically less
than 5% of the population is prepared to act as a warrior or protectors of the
flock, which leaves potentially 95% of the population as someone who will not
come to your aid or will prey upon you given the situation. I prefer to believe
that there is a percentage of 20% of Christians, rural or generally good people,
that may not physically risk their life for you, but are none the less, good
people who might assist you in other ways. Your car may be a false hope that
ends up getting you into a more dire situation or delaying critical choices that
need to be made before you start out.
For our purposes I am going to concentrate on canoes and Jon boats. Those heavy
ski boats, yachts and sailboats will only work for limited distances or in limited
places. If you live near the ocean or the Great Lakes , they will work just fine.
If your only using you ski boat to go across the lake or 20 miles down the river,
it may work out for you. Do not, however, plan on using them
to navigate the Missouri , Mississippi , Ohio River 's drainage basins. Those
rivers have locks
and dams
aplenty that you may not be able to portage or pass through in a worst case scenario.
Many of the rivers in the Northwest and Southwest are in a similar state except
the dams are bigger and often not designed to accommodate navigation (Think of
the Bonneville Dam at the Columbia River Gorge, Grand Coulee Dam and over 225
others in the Columbia River Basin . Hoover/Boulder Dam. Upper Mississippi has
38. The Ohio River has around 30, but the Lower Mississippi has none. Missouri
River
has none from St. Louis to Sioux City Iowa, but the headwaters have numerous
Dams
and Reservoirs). If the locks have no electricity or they have been told by the
military or police not to let anyone through, you’re a sitting duck and
it may be game over.
In many parts of the country the boat may be a preferred method because it is
stealthy, uses little fuel, can be suitable entirely without fuel, will never
be subject to the same amount of usage demands as the highways, will be noticed
less by the public/looters/law enforcement/military. The majority of motors out
there should be 2 cycle. These are more EMP-resistant
and easy to work on.. Most boats will
still remain functional
even
while
leaking or having holes shot in them. You would have to be taking on a lot of
water from holes below the waterline to make it untenable to remain afloat.Many
boats will contain buoyant materials designed to keep the boat afloat.
A Marina
may be more likely to have fuel available than any gas station. (Note:
Kevlar was sometimes used as a hull material for some larger and more expensive
ski boats, since it stronger than fiberglass.)
Most of the major river systems are about a half mile across. If you stick to
the middle of the channel, anyone trying to shoot at you will have make a shot
of an average of a quarter mile. Call me optimistic, but most of the people shooting
at you from that distance are more likely to hit you by accident than on purpose.
An old USGI Kevlar
vest will provide some ballistic protection for your motor
or
fuel
supply. Most bridges will not be suitable for either looters/military/police
to set up on, and fire directly down upon you, unless the entire bridge is shut
down to traffic. In most cases, anyone trying to get at you will not have any
guarantee of actually boarding your vessel. Even if they managed to kill you,
your supplies would continue to float down stream and out of their reach. This
may discourage any but the most criminally motivated elements of society. I happen
to believe that I have a better chance to survive in the water as on any interstate
or major highway. If you should happen to run into a motivated criminal element
in speed boats, either flee, beach your craft and run, or turn and fight with
everything you have. Chances are they won’t want to mess with heavily armed
elements on a flat surface with virtually no cover. A bow-mounted belt-fed Browning
[Model
1919A4
machinegun or semi-auto equivalent, mounted on a larger boat] would chop any
attackers
watercraft
into
matchsticks
in
no
time
at
all.
(I
am
not endorsing it. I’m just saying it’s a nice idea to consider.)
In the first two weeks of a catastrophe, a miniscule number of people are going
to be watching the rivers or lakes. They will be down looting televisions and
liquor. The cops will be at roadblocks and chasing looters and arsonists.
Your
main antagonists are likely to be; federal employees manning the locks/dams,
Conservation Officers (since they already have lots of boats, the military (probably
a naval reserve unit) or in certain instances, the US Coast Guard. None of this
group is usually looking for trouble on the water and Conservation Officers are
notoriously cautious when working alone. It's too easy for them to just "disappear".
The larger the body of water (in square miles or distance from shore), the more
distance or greater buffer you can put between you and anyone who may wish you
harm. Night travel by water with no running lights and your motor off, will make
you nearly invisible to 99% of the population. Watch out for logs, snags and
sand bars and keep a watch out for other boats or you might well be sunk. Night
vision might be handy if traveling at night. Many duck and goose hunters have
metal supports for blind materials that could come in handy for camouflaging
your boat
if you choose to lay up during the day at some creek or island.
Your average inner city gang member doesn’t know how to operate a boat
and cant swim anyway, but don’t count on it. Even criminals near a resort/sailing/boating
area are sometimes familiar with boats. Ever heard of pirates and drug runners?
You could potentially carry much more equipment or personnel with you by means
of a boat. Several Jon boats/canoes can be lashed together or roped in parallel
(with the front boat pulling all the others in line). In this way you save fuel
and have spares engines at hand in case a motor conks out. A boat can theoretically
carry quite a load (much more than a car or small truck). However, remember anything
you put into a boat may have to be portaged across any barrier. If you don’t
like the idea of lugging it in and out of the boat many times, then don’t
take it along. If you read a book about fur traders or Lewis and Clark, they
often
spent an entire day (or days) at a portage site.
Say you come to an inoperable lock/dam, you find an area to unload, carry the
boat across land to a suitable location, carry the supplies to the boat, and
resume your journey. This will be fraught with peril and hard work. You will
need a crew. A minimum of one individual is needed to watch both locations (point
A to B) and you will need the individuals necessary to carry everything between
those points. The only way to avoid that is to do it so fast nobody notices or
take a canoe and only what's in your pack. If you try to navigate smaller rivers,
you will find yourself having to portage across every log jam. It's no fun, it's
frustrating and it's slow. You might be better off walking at that point unless
you will break through to a larger body of water that will make the endeavor
worthwhile.
In a freshwater area, you will have a supply of drinkable water (albeit full
of herbicide, fertilizer, and pesticide or toxic waste depending on the area).
This
is why you have a water filter, right? Food can be supplemented by fishing or
trolling (dragging a line behind the boat as you go). A small island might be
a good place to stop and cook lunch or dinner. Waste can be dumped over the side
or [better yet] buried p[when you go ashore.]
« Letter Re: Consumer Price Inflation is Upon Us |Main| Note from JWR: »
Impassable Freeways and Highways in an Eleventh Hour "Get Out of Dodge"
Jim,
I found some depressing analysis on G.O.O.D. for
those of us near US population centers: Read
this PDF.
For further information on the ineffectiveness of G.O.O.D. when times get
bad, US DOT generated this report: Using
Highways for No-Notice Evacuations.
In addition, there is no shortage at the US DOT web
site of well-intentioned and theoretical research reports on disaster planning.
For many of us, last minute G.O.O.D. plans are likely to be characterized by
a high probability of failure along with its associated human costs. One might
guess that the chance of failure is an exponential function of the distance
to the retreat. I need to remind myself that it is not a simple matter of just
getting in the car or BOV and heading out to the safety of my retreat. Might
work, probably won't.
Thank you again for your hard work, - The DFer
JWR Replies: I concur that "Eleventh Hour" G.O.O.D. is a
bad idea. Even if you have 90% of your gear pre-positioned at your retreat,
there is the prospect of never making it there safely. (Or, arriving days or
weeks late, on foot, only to find your retreat occupied by armed squatters
that are gleefully eating from your carefully planned deep
larder.) As I illustrated
in my novel "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse", being forced to abandon a vehicle
and traveling on
foot is a dicey proposition, at best. I strongly recommend that
readers live at their retreats years round--even if it means giving up a
high-paying big city job.
You mentioned: "One might guess that the chance
of failure is an exponential function
of the
distance
to the retreat." I would qualify that by saying: "...the distance that you
need to
traverse in a high population density region to get to the retreat".
It is best if one can get away from urban regions fairly quickly and then
take secondary or tertiary back roads. For those that are forced by circumstances
or family
obligations to live a long distance from their intended retreat, I recommend
doing some detailed map studies, and then some test drives with a GPS receiver in hand, to establish
five or more G.O.O.D. routes--some quite circuitous--to stay away from high
population
regions and expected refugee lines of drift. Needless to say, always, always, have enough
fuel on hand, to make the drive from your home to your retreat without buying
any
fuel. Depending on the fire code in your town, that might necessitate caching
some fuel along your route. (Ideally, with relatives or friends.) Along with
that comes the further complication of systematically rotating that cached
fuel.)
If and
when "The Day" comes, do
not hesitate!
You need to get out of town well ahead of The
Golden Horde, while
roads are still passable. It is better to be ultra-cautious
and run the risk of burning up some of your hard-earned vacation hours in
the event of a few false alarms, than to be complacent and thereby end up
stuck in traffic, staring at the tail lights
and back bumpers of the enormous horde that left town ahead of you.
(Just ask the folks that tried leaving the Gulf Coast cities just before
Hurricane
Katrina
arrived. It was a monumental traffic jam.)
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Note from JWR: »
Prepare or Die, by J. Britely
Throughout my life I have been
caught unprepared several times and while nothing seriously bad happened, it
easily could have. I have been
lost hiking. My car has broken
down in very bad
neighborhoods - twice. I have
been close enough to riots
that I feared they would spread to my neighborhood, been in earthquakes, been
too close to wildfires, been stuck in a blizzard,
and have been without power and water for several days after a hurricane. I managed to get myself out of
each situation, I thanked God, and tried to learn from my mistakes. I could have avoided these situations
or made them much less unsafe and worrisome if I had been more aware and
prepared. I have also tried to
learn from the mistakes of others
so as to not learn everything the hard way. One group I assisted was a two hour drive into the
mountains, out of gas, wearing tee shirts, and had empty water bottles (at
least they kept them) (I have made each of those mistakes but not all at the
same time).
I aspire to be more prepared the
next time. My preparedness
includes many different aspects.
In my opinion, the most important thing I have done is to learn as much
as possible about what to expect and how to deal with those situations. The other important thing that gives me
some piece of mind is that I carry
and stock away water, food, ammo, books, and other tools and equipment that
should help me survive a bad situation.
Be prepared!
The other inspiration for my
preparations is my family. Seeing
my family suffer from lack of water or food would be very hard for me,
especially if some easy and cheap preparations could have made a big
difference. Recently, a few
friends and family have asked me about my preparations and how they might
prepare. I didn't have a good
short answer because I have spent years learning and stocking away. I thought of myself as more of a
student than a teacher in this area, but now I think I do know enough to give
some basic advice and refer them to good sources for more. Hopefully, they (and you) can learn
from my mistakes without having to waste time, energy and money on things that
don't work. Of course, I haven't
been through every situation or disaster but I have made it through a few tough
spots without losing my head. My
advice is based upon what I know to work and also what sounds like it would
work with the minimum fuss. I
always prefer the cheap, easy, home-made solution, but
sometimes it is worth the cost to get a quality item that is just too hard to
improvise or where the manufactured solution is much better (such as a
knife). Keep it simple stupid
(KISS) when you can. With
persistence you can get a lot done $20 at a time.
The purpose of this document is
to give an overview of preparedness and the first steps to take. I focus more on the why than the what
so that you can tailor your preparedness to your own situation and budget. I will also cite the best sources I
have found for more information.
There is a lot of information out there in books, classes, web sites,
and forums. Most of it is good but it is also really repetitious and
overwhelming. This document is
only about 15 pages printed out (you are printing important information (not
necessarily this) aren't you - since in an emergency you may not have power and
need to take the information with you).
I try to keep my important preparedness documents in an expandable file
folder with a tie inside a plastic crate.
What are you preparing for?
No one really knows what will be
the next survival situation they will face or how it will play out (will it get
worse before it gets better?). It
could be getting lost hiking, the car getting two flats in the middle of the
desert, a hurricane, a home invasion, an earthquake, or a terrorist
attack. You must assess your own
situation and determine what you need to prepare for. Of course some preparations will be useful in many
situations including everyday life, and these are the best type.
In order to get an idea of what
to prepare for, look at the types of situations that you or people similar to
you have been through. Also,
assess where you live or spend a lot of time such as work and vacation. We need to learn from the past but
without fighting the last war.
I like hiking and being
outdoors, so for me learning how
not to get lost and how to stay alive in the outdoors are high
priorities. These skills may also
come in handy if I need to walk to safety during a terrorist attack because all
of the roads and public transportation are closed. Living in your house without power or water isn't too
different from camping
except for the nice roof over your head and all of your stuff. I have also taken a first
aid class. It is pretty
limited in coverage but still useful in a variety of situations.
To assess the likely dangers to
where I live and work I used several sources including FEMA (free guide), DHS, Disaster Center, Emergency
Essentials, Two
Tigers and CBS. Also, find your local emergency
response office. But don't
rely on the government too much for planning or for help. As we relearned with the Katrina
response, their information and advice is far from perfect. And FEMA has always said it will take
72 hours to respond. So the way
I
look at it, during Katrina, FEMA (and
local governments) failed to live up to
its own low expectations. But even
if FEMA had been able to provide more food and water, you would still be much
better off taking care of yourself.
Do you really want to be told what possessions you can hold, when to
eat, when to sleep, and live in close quarters with thousands of
strangers? Sounds like prison to
me.
It's
A Disaster is a good book that will get you started on a plan for most
disasters. Some of their plans are
a little passive for me (don't take any risks and follow all FEMA directions)
and their kits lack some important things like knives. Still, it is a very good book and a
great start. Family and friends
should be included in your planning and preparations as much as they want to
be, but be careful about telling people who you do not trust or know well. You do not want to become a target in a
crisis.
I
think one of the best sources for thinking about what you are preparing for
and what does and doesn't work is news and
first hand accounts. These are some of the best ones I have
found. A few of them seem kind of
glib and bravado but the advice seems sound.
True Stories of Survival
Hurricane Katrina: http://www.frfrogspad.com/disastr.htm
Argentina thread 1: http://www.clairewolfe.com/wolfesblog/arg.html
Argentina thread 2 (some
swearing): http://www.survivalmonkey.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2715
Airplane crash: http://www.equipped.com/waldock698.htm
Ground Zero: http://www.equipped.org/groundzero.htm
Karen Hood's Survival Journal (a week in the wilderness) http://www.survival.com/karen1.htm
Sailing to Hawaii http://www.equipped.com/0698rescue.htm
Tsunami http://pubs.usgs.gov/circ/c1187/
Alaska http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/8017/index2.html
A list of stories
Priorities
The survival Rule of Threes:
- It takes about three seconds to die without thinking
- It takes about three minutes to die without air
- It
takes about three hours to die without shelter
- It
takes about three days to die without water
- It
takes about three weeks to die without food
- It
takes about three months to die without hope
- Try to
have at least three ways of preventing each
of the above (a backup to your backup).
So the priorities are thinking,
air, shelter, water, food, and hope.
These are rules of thumb and approximations. Also, you will likely start feeling really bad before you
die so you need to be proactive in addressing these needs.
Thinking
Basically, don't panic
and do
something stupid. This is easier
said than done, but you can build your thinking skill and confidence by playing
“what if” games. After reading about the risks to your area and the survival
stories above, think about what kinds of things could go wrong and how you
would deal with them. The more
detail the better. What would you
do if a cat 5 hurricane was projected to hit your house? Where would you go? What would you take? Would it all fit in your car? Do you have enough gas to get there if
the gas stations are closed? What
if you don't have time to leave? What room in your house is safest (can you
reinforce it easily)?
If you are facing a serious
situation but no immediate threat, take the time to consider your options
before rushing into a course of action.
Take an inventory of what you have on hand and what is around you. Think of how each item could help solve
one or more of your priorities.
Thinking about these things may
be scary but it will be less scary when it actually happens if you have thought
it through. Focus on what you can
do to improve things and not on what you cannot change. Thinking can also be
more long term as in learning and planning. I suggest you read some of the sources below and then come
up with a plan for several types of situations that you are likely to
face. But don't delay, you can take
some first steps outlined below, such as storing water, right now. You can then read more, take classes
and collect useful items.
Preparing is a process not a one time event.
Air
Having breathable air is not
something you usually have to worry about, but it is an immediate priority if
you do. First aide can help with
choking and bleeding (which causes the body to not get needed oxygen). Hundreds
of people die from carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide poisoning
every year because of gas leaks and cooking
or heating indoors. Being at
altitude can also make it harder to breath. Finally, a terrorist attack could put dust, chemical,
biological, or nuclear contamination in the air or force you into a shelter
that needs ventilation. Be aware
of these dangers and have appropriate detectors if possible (smoke, carbon
monoxide, etc.). A wet cloth or
hand wipe (carry on airplane) to breathe through can help for dust or smoke.
Shelter
Shelter is mainly about staying
dry and the right temperature, but you also want to avoid sunburn, bugs,
animals and other dangers. Your
house is your usual primary shelter but it could become damaged or you may have
to evacuate. You should have
emergency repair items on hand such as tarps, lumber, shovels, nails, plastic
sheeting, crowbars, and a saw.
Your clothes are your first and
most important layer of shelter outdoors.
Clothes protect you from heat, cold and abrasions. In general silk, wool, and synthetic
materials are better than cotton especially to keep you warm in cold wet
weather. I find cotton more comfortable especially in hot weather, so I
compromise and wear a cotton shirt and shorts, but carry a better shirt, pants
and socks
in my bag, as well as additional layers and a change of underwear. This makes my pack a little heavier,
but I have been cold and wet in the wilds and that is miserable. For me, a hat and sunglasses are
indispensable. I try to always
carry at least a light water resistant jacket or poncho (with a garbage bag as
a backup). For me, boots are the
only sensible walking shoes. Find
some that are rugged and comfortable.
Have extra laces and a backup pair.
You can carry a tent, a tarp or garbage
bag for resting and sleeping.
A tarp can make a simple shelter or
an elaborate one. Rope, twine and tape are also
useful. You can carry some type of
staff
or tent
poles or make them with an ax or saw.
Mosquito netting is necessary in some places.
You should have many ways to
start a fire since most are cheap and compact. At least have a lighter, matches,
and flint. You can also build a firebed to sleep in if you have
inadequate shelter from the cold.
Water
This is a crucial area that
can be helped a lot with very cheap and easy actions before The Schumer
Hits The
Fan (TSHTF). This is probably the
thing
you can do with the highest payoff for amount of effort. The only problem with water is that it
is heavy and can take up a lot of room.
If you have storage room and are staying home this isn't a problem but
if you are on the move it can become a driving factor in your progress. Long term solutions are also difficult
if your primary water source (city water or well) goes out and you are not near
a river or lake.
Used plastic soda bottles and
orange juice jugs with screw tops make very convenient water storage containers. Just rinse them a few times with hot
water. Old liquor bottles and wine box bladders work well too. I also have several canteens and rugged
5
gallon containers with taps.
The five gallon containers weigh about 40 pounds each and are about as
big as can be easily moved (larger drums can go in your basement or garage or
under a rain spout). A few collapsible
containers might also be useful because they can be stored and carried
empty. Tap water can last for
years without going bad if kept in a cool dark place. But you should check water that has been stored for clarity
and odors. If in doubt, treat it
with one of the methods below. You
can also freeze the plastic soda or orange juice containers (these do crack sometimes
when freezing) and use them in a cooler to keep food cold if the power goes out
before drinking it. If you know
a
disaster is coming fill up any container you can including the coffee maker,
crystal vase, bucket, bathtub, sink, and kiddy pool (some of these could be
spilled or contaminated but hopefully some will make it).
Most sources recommend about a
gallon per person per day. People
consume about 2 quarts in cool low activity environments but much more if hot
or active. You should have at
least 2 weeks worth per person in your primary residence (but why not have
months worth if you have the room).
If you are traveling by car, three days worth per person is minimum
(more for bathing), and if you are walking take as much as you reasonably can
carry but at least one days worth (several small bottles are better for
diversification if one leaks and also to let you know to start looking for more
water before you are on your last bottle). I also store extra water for washing and bathing. Here the container doesn't matter quite
as much. I use old liquid
detergent jugs. You should also
have at least two methods of sterilizing water.
The first step in sterilizing
water is to get the water as clear as possible. If it is cloudy, strain it with coffee filters, a clean
cloth, or sand. Or you can let it
settle and pour off the more clear water.
The primary and most reliable
method of sterilizing water is boiling.
You actually do not need to boil the water just heat it past 145 degrees for long enough. But
if you don't do it right you can get sick. So to be safe, boil it for 5 minutes if you can. If you are
walking, a metal cup (enamel or stainless) or a converted tin can is easier to
boil than a full pot. You can
carry a backpacking
stove or a Kelly Kettle. You can
use solar power to sterilize
water (in a soda
bottle) if no cooking is possible.
Other stoves are suggested below under food.
To sterilize water
with bleach use 2 drops of plain unscented
bleach per quart of water (or 8 drops per gallon or 1⁄4 tsp per 2 gallons). If you don't have a dropper you can wet
a paper towel and then drip it (wear gloves). Let the water sit for 20 minutes and then smell it. If it smells like chorine then its good
to go. If it doesn't, repeat with
the same amount of bleach. If that
doesn't work try to find other water.
(Really bad water or salt water requires a still.) Bleach is cheap but does not last forever - rotate. Dry Calcium Hypochlorite {sold as "pool
shock" bleach) stores
much
better
than liquid bleach but requires an
additional step of mixing a solution. (It provides a very inexpensive long
term
solution
to
water treatment).
There are also Potable
Aqua iodine tablets that are more
compact for sterilizing water. You
can also use Tincture of
Iodine. Iodine and chlorine
are poisons so be very careful (kill the
bacteria not yourself. [Avoid ingesting chlorine or iodine crystals!])
Any of the chemical treatments
can make the water taste funny.
You can use drink mixes to make it taste better. I'm not sure if sports drinks are
really better, but Gatorade seems more thirst quenching to me than water. The powder form is more convenient and
cheaper. You can also make your own sports drink
(1/4 tsp nu salt (potassium chloride),
1⁄4
tsp
salt,
3-6 tbsp sugar (to taste), juice of 1 lemon (or orange), and optional flavoring
(Kool-Aid) per gallon of water) or switchel.
Of course you can spend money for water if you
want to. You can buy prepackaged water or expensive
filters. There are backpacking
filters but I have found these to be temperamental. A water
bottle with a filter would be a good backup or a straw.
You can also go the more expensive route with a good gravity fed filter like
this: http://www.doultonfilters.com/gravity.html. This is a great looking solar still but doesn't appear
to be for sale right now.
If you are a homebrewer (or like beer), you can add some
dry malt extract, hops, and dry yeast to your
stash. Beer is boiled as part of
the brewing process. Then the
alcohol and hops act as a natural preservative. For the long term you can get some sproutable barley, grow some hops, and culture yeast. If you or someone with you doesn't
handle alcohol well, skip this.
Food
Providing food can be as
easy or
complicated as you want. The
easiest thing to do is simply buy
more of any food you normally buy that stores well. By store well, I mean does not
spoil. Foods like fresh milk, meat
and bread do not store well. Other
foods like rice, dried beans and pasta all store well and are cheap. They eventually lose some of their
nutrition but this is gradual and will not make you sick from eating “expired”
food if you forget to rotate. I
do
not list exact rotation schedules because every source is different. Some sources say grains only last one
year but most sources say 10 plus years and other credible sources say hundreds
or thousands
of years. It all depends upon how
it is packed and where it is stored which is discussed below (vacuum packed,
cool and dry are best) Canned meats, fruits and vegetables store okay and are
more expensive.
How much food you want to have
on hand depends on what type of situation you expect and how much you want to
spend. Buying a month' worth of rice, beans,
salt, and pasta will not cost much (and
is a good start). You will be a
lot happier if you add:
- canned or dried
meat (Costco and BJs have multipaks of Spam, ham, tuna and chicken for
under $10)
- canned or dried fruits and nuts
- canned or dried vegetables
- dried potatoes
- canned or dried sauces (for
pasta, chili, etc.)
- soup mixes (bean soups are
cheap) and bullion
- dried onions
- parmesan cheese
- cooking oil
- ramen noodles
- peanut butter
- mayo
- vinegar
- sugar and honey
- powdered milk
- bread crumbs, stuffing, oatmeal,
cereal
- flour, pancake mix, biscuit mix
- baking soda
- cocoa, instant coffee, tea,
drink mixes, juice mixes (cranberry)
- lemon juice
- dry yeast
- spices
Some of these can be eaten
without cooking or water if you have to.
Costco is great for the rice, canned goods, bullion, yeast (2 pound
box), cooking oil and spices. Don't forget a can opener and other
utensils. Of course you can do the
drying (wood
or solar) and canning yourself
for better quality and lower cost.
The oil, flour, baking soda and yeast (refrigerate the yeast if
possible) do not store well and have to be rotated more frequently than the
rice, beans and pasta. You will
be
healthier if you add some multivitamins. There are also luxury items like
Powerbars, powdered eggs, powdered cheese, powdered butter, food tabs, and meals
ready to eat (MREs).
To decide how much you need, you
can simply scale up recipes
and meals (print some simple recipes that use your stored food). How much rice and beans would you eat
at a meal or in a day if that was all you ate? A lot probably (make a meal as a trial). Now multiply that by the number of
people and the number of days and you have a ball park of how much to
store. The problem is that you
could end up feeding more people than your immediate family. Who else would you not turn away?
(Anyone you wouldn't want to live with normally is not someone you want to be
stuck with in a crisis. That said
there is some family I wouldn't turn away even if they deserve it). Start with the cheap stuff (rice,
beans, pasta, salt) and then slowly keeping adding and rotating the other food
until you have at least one months worth.
Do an inventory at least twice a year.
Store everything in
airtight/waterproof containers inside a tough container in a cool, dry, dark
place. Some things come packed
pretty well and can just go in a plastic
bucket or crate (cans can
be dipped in wax). Other items
should be vacuum
packed in small bags or large mylar bags with oxygen absorbers and
then put in the plastic bucket with a lid or crate (with a solid latching
lid). If you don't have shelves,
you can make shelves out of the buckets or crates and 1”x12” lumber. Put 2”x4”'s under the bottom shelf to
keep it off the floor.
For years
worth of food instead of months worth of food we need to move to grain and grain grinders. The Church of Latter Day
Saints are the experts
here. They also have storehouses that will sell
to the public if you are polite.
Of course you can buy online
but the shipping will be as much or more than the food. I went cheap and was able to get about
six months worth of food for one person for $100. I stuck to grains (400 lbs/year), beans (40 lbs/year), soup
mix (20 lbs/year), and milk (16 lbs/year) (I already had sugar (60
pounds/year), salt (10 lbs/year), oil (5 gallons/year), baking soda and yeast). I borrowed some of their equipment to
pack some of the food, the rest I packed at home in the mylar bags and buckets
described above. The milk is a
sticky powder and very messy (think of spilling flour and multiply by 100),
repack it outside if possible. I
also bought a hand operated
grain grinder to make flour from the wheat. Then I can make bread
(scale this recipe up to one loaf per day for a year as a cross check for a
year's supply). This would be a
pretty miserable diet but I think it would keep me alive and healthy if I had
enough vitamins. Because of the
sack size I have more of some things than others so towards the end I may be
eating paste. I hope to upgrade later. For infants you need more milk, oil,
sugar, and vitamins from which you can make an emergency formula (breast
feeding is better, then you give the extra
food to the mother).
For even longer food solutions
you need to farm. Supplementing
your food with a garden
or sprouting would also make
things last longer and provide some healthy variety. Its best to have some non-hybrid seeds on
hand or save
seeds from your garden.
Serious (expensive) seed packages are here. Have some fertilizer and pesticides on
hand but in the long run organic
is the way to go.
For cooking you can use a wood
burning stove, barbeque, or camp
stove in the short run (have some extra fuel on hand). The Petromax
lantern is pricey but well made and also has a stove attachment. If you don't have one of these or run
out of fuel you can build one: a coffee can
stove, a bucket stove
(avoid galvanized metal),
a alcohol stove, a collapsible stove, a tin can stove (simple
version), solar
oven (portable version),
or a clay
stove (print directions for making at least one of these). This is also a good commercial stove for those with cash
to burn. These are much more
efficient than an open fire. You
need a good pot or dutch oven for
boiling water and cooking. For
more portable food you can go with MREs, make your own
or stock what ever you would normally backpack with.
Hope
Hope is different for
everyone. It can be safety,
comfort, companionship, or normalcy.
For me it is mainly hope that there is light at the end of the
tunnel. I can work hard and
persevere if I know eventually things will get better. This means long term planning. So I want to have what I need in the
short term but also have some hope for the long term (so I have gardening tools
and seeds in addition to rice and spam).
You also want comfort items such as a book, Bible, game, coloring book,
pictures, beer, tea, or warm
shower. Some of these can be
dual purpose such as a book about hiking or gardening, survival playing cards,
or a novel about survival and perseverance.
Equipment
There are lots of things you can get, but you can also
just organize what you have already. The number of lists
seems endless and what you need depends upon the situation, your skills, and
your budget. Here is what is wrong with
the DHS kit I have already
mentioned several items above and list some others here but being comprehensive
would take a lot of space (read the links and references for more). Here are some basics.
All types of camping equipment
and tools come in handy but can be
expensive (shipping can be expensive too so you may want to make your own, try your
local yard sales, craigslist,
sporting goods or hardware store first).
You may want a small tent to carry and a larger tent to put in the car. Sleeping
pads are as much for insulation as for comfort (learned the hard way—you
don't want to be in the cold without some insulation between you and the
ground). A hammock
can be multipurpose. You can
try your local hardware store for lanterns or Lehman's
(they also have candle making supplies).
I suggest four knives for anyone
responsible enough to have one (in general you get what you pay for, but start
cheap and upgrade later): a folding
lock blade knife (buck and gerber are both good reasonably priced brands), a
Swiss army knife (with saw blade) or leatherman type knife
(pliers are handy), a
solid full tang knife, and a machete or short sword for brush. A kitchen knife can work until you get
any of these. A hatchet would also
be useful. Keep them sharp.
You need several maps (local,
state (small scale and large scale), neighboring states, topographic and road)
and a compass. A GPS
is optional but very handy. There
are usually welcome centers along interstates and in some cities that hand out
free maps. The USGS is a good source for reasonably
priced maps but sometimes it is a bit hard to find what you are looking
for. They have a catalog
for each state that really helps. They are also very friendly by phone but
still prefer if you order online.
You should have at least one non
portable (plug in) phone that can be used with the power out. Medicine, diapers and feminine products
will be hard to get. A generator
is great but can be expensive and you must have enough fuel (I don't have one
but want one). Solar
powered battery chargers are really slow but might be the only option.
Change your attitude, don't be
wasteful, and you can reuse many items. A tin can becomes a cup or pot with
a
little work. Use both sides of a
piece of paper and then use it as insulation or tinder. Waste not, want not. This also minimizes trash as there may
be no trash pickup.
Organize your equipment and supplies into different
levels and packages
Stuff you almost always carry
You should make a small kit that
fits in your pocket or
around your neck. This should include:
- ways to make a fire (matches,
mini bic, flint, etc.)
- a button
compass
- a small knife or razor blade,
broken hack saw blade, small file
- Swiss Tech Micro-Tech
6-in-1 Tool
- led light
- small candle (light or fire
making)
- a saw
- short piece of wire
- parachute cord (as much as will
fit)
- iodine tablets
- sturdy needle and thread
- individual salt servings
- food tabs, hard candy, bullion
or individual parmesan cheese/sugar (if space permits)
- freezer bags (water)
- nails (assortment)
- trash bag if it will fit (poncho
or tarp)
- dental floss (twine)
- Advil, Imodium, Benadryl,
vitamins, band aids, SPF chapstick any other essential medicine for you
or your family (all labeled)
- fish hooks, split shot, fish
line, safety pins.
- Survival
cards can go in kit or wallet (you can make something similar).
Personal Fanny Pack (or vest)
This should be small enough and
attached to you so that you do not put it down even when you take a break. Take it with you on any hike, drive or
emergency. A large fanny pack
works well or Ranger Rick
suggests putting everything in a vest and a bamboo walking stick. You can duplicate some of the items in
your mini kit but add substantially.
- Survival
cards or pocket
survival guide (or print some out).
- Knife of your choice (another
one can go in your pocket or on your belt)
- Sharpening
stone (or ceramic
insulator)
- Fire materials (matches and tender
(dryer lint, cotton balls in Vaseline, small candles, etc.) waterproofed)
- Magnifying glass wrapped in
bandana
- Pliers if your knife doesn't
have them
- Compass
- Maps
- Metal cup (boiling water)
- 2 small bottles of water
- Freezer bags (organization,
waterproofing and for more water)
- Small camp soap (or traveler's
shampoo)
- Iodine tablets
- At least 2 trash bags (clear for
still and heavy black for shelter), or tarp and poncho, or space blanket,
or light weight jacket with hood (a shell that compacts) or hat
- Rope, twine and wire
- Headlamp and extra batteries
- Candle
- Wipes
(these are multipurpose and are more compact than toilet paper, keep them
in zip lock bags (add a little water if they get dry))
- Gloves and socks
- Small first aide kit (including
prescriptions)
- Sunscreen and bug repellant.
- Whistle
- Snacks (powerbars, trail mix,
food tabs, tea, Gatorade mix, bullion, beef jerky, MRE)
- A GPS, FRS radio, am/fm radio,
cell phone, or CB can go in here if it fits
- Mini binoculars (to spot
landmarks, approaching fires, etc.)
- Notepad and pencil or pen
- A multipurpose
tool is a good backup for the other items.
72 hour kit (or less)
To some, the 72 hour kit is
everything they have in their house for disasters. I think this should be what you take with you if you have to
evacuate (even on foot). If you
can't carry 72 hours worth of food and water (that is a lot of water even if
you only plan 2 quarts per day), scale it down and put the rest in a car bug
out kit that can be used in your house or on the road. You can also make a similar kit for work
or other places you are likely to be in an emergency. It should be in a medium sized backpack that you can easily
carry (get
a rain cover for the backpack (or make one)—these really help in wet
conditions). Again, repeat items
in your smaller kits as you see fit.
Here are some suggestions:
- It's
a Disaster! Book (or print out a similar one)
- Personal mini-kit and fanny pack
or vest (attached to you separately from the backpack)
- Water (as much as you can fit
without making the bag too heavy, you can carry some containers empty and
fill them later)
- Changes of clothes (several
underwear and socks, long underwear)
- Jacket, hat, and sunglasses
- Sleeping
bag or blanket (and compact pad), hammock
- Soap and other toiletries (comb,
nail clippers and razor)
- Small stove and/or lantern (or
directions and supplies for making one of the stoves above)
- Small tent or tarp and netting,
plastic sheeting, tent poles and stakes (multipurpose)
- Stuff sacks, mesh bags, pillow
cases for organization
- Duct tape
- Hatchet or machete, folding saw
- Small shovel
- Rope, twine and bungee cords
- Backpacking pot/pan
- Cooking and eating utensils
(kitchen knife, can opener, spatula, spoon, forks, plates, cups)
- Foil
- Dish soap, sponge, dish pan or
bucket (collapsible) (also a wash basin or bucket), towel
- Food (Snacks and MREs as well as
rice)
- Vitamins
- Detailed road maps
- topo
maps
- Extra ammo
- Pocket warmers
- A GPS, FRS radio (everyone with
a list of channels to use), am/fm radio, solar calculator, or CB (whatever
you have that fits)
- Copies of important documents,
phone numbers, extra credit card, cash, ID
- Comfort items (book, cards,
bible, pictures, coloring books, games)
Car Kit
Keep this in the car if
possible. I used to keep a lot of
this in my car but since some of it was stolen, I keep most of it in the house
and load it up for longer trips. I
have something similar to the personal fanny pack that I keep hidden in the
jack compartment.
- 72 hour kit
- Flashlight and batteries
- Fire extinguisher
- Jumper cables
- Seat belt cutter and window breaker
(keep within reach)
- Water (bottles can go under the
seats)
- Matches
- Gloves
- Tarps
- Garbage bags
- Wipes
- Maps
- Driving compass
- Rope and/or tow strap and bungee
cords
- First aide kit (any medications)
- Siphon hose for water or gas (do
not drink gas)
- Window washer/scraper
- Crowbar and other tools (hammer,
saw, wrenches, duct tape, fuses, belts, and screws)
- Ax, bucket and shovel (this is
required in some forests)
- Engine oil
- Gas can (keep it empty and
unused unless you have a place for it on the outside of your car or truck)
Stuff you take if you have to Bug Out
This is stuff that is too heavy
to carry in your 72 hour kit but something you can throw in your car (in
addition to what is already there) quickly if you need to evacuate. You might be able to take it in a
garden cart if you can't drive but travel by roads is still safe. Here is an example to help you make
your own
kit (or here). Pack it in crates or duffle bags. Here are some suggestions (what fits in
your car will vary):
- More survival books or books on
camping/country/simple living
- 5 gallon water cans (full)
- Food (cans and other heavy bulky
items)
- Cooler (grab some ice and any
travel friendly fresh items that are still good like cheese, peanut
butter, apples, lemons, and bread)
- Large first aide kit
- Dutch oven
- Stove and fuel or barbeque,
Kelly Kettle
- Lantern (Petromax is good but
expensive)
- Unscented bleach
- Tent and large tarps, rugs
- Blanket and pillows (sleeping
pad, hammock, or cot)
- Paper plates, utensils and cups
- Paper towels and wipes
- Foil
- Solar shower
- Bucket
toilet (you can store garbage bags, toilet paper, wipes, and soap
inside the bucket)
- Many garbage bags
- Laundry soap
- Clothes pins
- Soap and shampoo
- Ant traps and insecticides
- Fishing gear
- Radio and batteries
- Several extra fuel cans (enough
to get to your destination without refueling)
- Propane
heater with fuel
- Generator
- Small safe for guns and
documents
- Bikes (on rack and with pump and
tire repair kit)
- Frisbee or other games
First Aid and Medical Kits
Take a first aide class and more
training if you can. For supplies,
the place to start is with a pre-made small portable first aide kit and a
larger home or car first aide kit.
These are usually $10 to $20 on sale (but can be $100's if you want). You can add items from your
medicine cabinet and replace things like the cheap scissors that usually come
with them. However, these usually are not good for much more than minor cuts
and scrapes (going to a hospital/doctor may not be an option or may take a
while—so do
your best until you can get to one).
For more serious injuries you probably have to make your own kit. The best book is Wilderness
Medicine, by William W. Forgey. His suggested kit in the back of the
book is great (I learned the hard way I needed some of the items that he
recommends and figure the other items are ones I may need in the future). Amazon
and Moore Medical have
most of the items if you can't find them locally. For the house or car first aide kit, I suggest a hard sided
box like a tool box. Dental care is
also important. A toothache is
really distracting. A little dental kit like this
could make you a lot more comfortable until you can see a dentist.
Other Kits
Make other kits as you see
fit. I have a kit that is mainly
in case of terrorist attack (I live and work too close to a likely
target). I have Jane's
Chem-Bio Handbook and what to do if a nuclear attack in imminent as well as Potassium Iodide (seven
days), plastic sheeting, duct tape, Tyvek clothes
coverings, and a face mask
(this is not as good as a gas mask but its what I have). You can spread this to your other kits
if you want.
Security
Protecting yourself from
criminals is as natural
as buying a fire extinguisher to put out fires (but more expensive). Get fences, dead bolts, and lock
your windows at night but if someone really wants to get in your home they
will. Police take an average of
11 minutes or more to respond to violent crimes 40 percent
of the time (sometimes hours), under normal conditions. A lot can happen
in 11 minutes and you are going to wait a lot longer in a crisis. When someone is kicking in your door,
it is too late to go buy a gun.
You are on your own.
Relying on the kindness of someone breaking into your home is not a
good bet.
If you are a gun person, pick
your own gun. This advice if for
those who don't own a gun or don't shoot.
I suggest a pistol, a rifle and a shotgun for every adult (check
you local gun laws). If I had to only have one gun it would
be a shotgun
because of their versatility. A 20
gauge shotgun is more than enough for most purposes including home
defense and has less recoil than a 12 gauge. The Remington
870 is a great choice but many people also like Mossberg. Take a class
on using the shotgun for home defense.
For home defense ammo, I use bird shot. This will not penetrate and
stop a criminal as fast as buck shot but is
also less likely to go
through a wall and hurt an innocent person. Make your own decision here based on who is in adjoining
rooms and how close the neighbors are.
You can always load bird shot as the first few shells followed by buck
shot (keep about 200 rounds on hand because it will be hard to buy in a
crisis). The only options I
recommend are hearing
protection, glasses,
a cleaning
kit, a sling
(guns with slings don't get set down in bad places as much) and maybe a light
or night sights. I think the
factory stocks are fine.
Next on my list would be a
.22. The Ruger
Single Six is a nice
revolver that is convertible to either 22 LR or 22 magnum (This might be a
better choice as the only gun for some people). Also get a holster for it. Savage and CZ make bolt
action rifles that are great bargains. A .22
is a little small for home
defense (it is less likely to stop a criminal in his tracks) but a lot
better than nothing. It is also
important to be comfortable with your gun and a .22 is fun to shoot so you are
more likely to practice
(.22 ammo is very cheap and you can get 1,000 rounds for about
$20). As soon as you are
comfortable with the .22 and your budget allows, you should probably upgrade to
a larger common caliber (.357
for a revolver, 9mm, .40 or .45 for an automatic pistol, 12 gauge for a
shotgun, and .223, .308, 7.62x39, .30-30, or .30-06 for rifles). Get a concealed weapon permit if your state
allows them even if you don't plan on using it (carrying a gun). Again, these take some time to get so
you have to get one before you need it even if you think that will be
never. Also, the required classes
are really great and focus mainly on when not to use a gun. Almost any gun range will offer such a
class (and many others that are worth it too). In general, buying a used
gun is fine (simple guns are very durable) but for the guns I recommend
here, the premium for a new gun (gun store or some sporting good stores) will
probably be less than $100 and probably worth it to avoid any mechanical issues
to start with.
Learn the gun safety rules and
locking up any guns not on your body is a good idea and a necessity if you have
kids (or adults who act like kids) in your home. For pistols you can get a cheap keyed
safe for about $20 (also good for documents). Then you have to hide the key where you can find it quickly
but no one else can. A combination
safe is better but a lot more expensive (practice opening it in the
dark). For long guns you can get a
locking
cabinet for about $100 (some cases have a good
lock and that is a good idea for taking with you in the car), put a lock on a
closet, or get a
real safe for about $1,000.
Trigger locks are generally a bad
idea because you can accidentally pull the trigger when getting them on or
off.
If you decide against a gun, at
least get pepper spray, a baseball bat, or a flashlight. A self-defense class would be good too
(martial arts classes are good but take a long time to become practical). A bullet
proof vest and helmet
would be good but neither is inexpensive.
Finally, there is safety in numbers. Staying with family and friends during a crisis is a good
idea if resources and space allow.
First Steps
- Buy some unscented bleach and start storing water.
- Start accumulating food and other supplies. Initially, just buy more of the food
that you already buy that stores well. Re-pack
as necessary. Get some food
grade buckets or plastic crates and find a cool dark place.
- Start reading more about the risks that you face personally and
ways to deal with them. What
is your plan to deal with each?
- Organize your stuff into personal mini kits, personal fanny
packs (or vests), one or more 72 hour kits for each person for each
location they spend time, a car kit, a bug out kit, and your house stash.
- Practice. This
doesn't have to be a military style exercise. Try camping and living without power and running water
(in your backyard to start with).
Load your car with what you think you would want to take if you had
to evacuate. How long did it
take? Did it all fit? Try driving back roads to get out
of town. Go hiking with your
72 hour kit.
- Periodically take an inventory and revise your plans.
Books and other sources (in order of relevance and
grouped)
Online Resources
SurvivalBlog
(the best daily variety of all types of information at a good price too)
Alpha Rubicon
(The "Mythbusters" of the survival world. Membership required for most information,
great information and more personalities than members)
Non-fiction
Fiction
Some of these are a bit
far
fetched and depressing (worst case) and mainly about TEOTWAWKI (sing “It's The
End of The World as We Know It, and I feel fine" ) (they are fiction)
but still give some good food for thought.
Author's web site: www.PrepareOrDie.com
« The Precious Metals Bull Charges Onward |Main| Note from JWR: »
Sources for Free Survival and Preparedness Information on the Internet, by K.L. in Alaska
Recent comments in SurvivalBlog provided excellent advice on using the public
library. You can gain lots of knowledge with no expense, then purchase only
those books you want to keep on hand for personal reference. Also, many colleges
and universities loan to local residents, so you can use them too, even if
you aren't a student.
If your local libraries participate, a great resource is Worldcat. It lets you search for books from home,
then go check them out, or get them through interlibrary loan.
What will happen to the Internet when the SHTF?
There's no guarantee it will survive. Even if the World Wide Web endures in
some form, most of the individual computers connected to it will not. Hopefully
by then you will have already downloaded all the free info that's going to
help you cope with the new world.
You may want to download a copy of information
on this web site or any other web site with useful content. It would be a shame
to face some disaster when all the resources of the internet are no longer
at your fingertips.
In preparation for a worst case scenario,
it's a good idea to begin now to collect the knowledge that will come in handy
later. You can download whole books, save them to jump drives, and keep an
entire library in a very small space. All kinds of free manuals, guides, tech
tips, and schematics are available on the internet; for everything from firearms
to furnaces to computers to appliances.
All of the downloads listed
here are in the public domain or allowable for copying. Stay away from sites
that may involve copyright infringement. If you use a file-sharing site such
as Limewire, Kazaa, or any site that uses bit torrents, you are not only downloading,
but also uploading. Your participation involves automatically uploading to
other users. If the file is illegal, you are distributing illegal material,
not just downloading it. Stay away from these and stick with the legitimate
sites listed below.
Keep in mind that some of this information you
download might be illegal to use at the present time. You can't practice dentistry
on your neighbor just because you have the book. Nevertheless, you have the
right to possess this very vital information. After TEOTWAWKI,
all bets are off. The information you collect today might save your life or
the life of somebody you love.
Many downloads are in Portable Document Format
(PDF) form, so to read them you must have a suitable program such as Adobe
Reader, which is the free version of Adobe Acrobat. There are alternatives
to Adobe that can read PDF files, if you prefer. Some of these files are very
large. If your internet connection is slow, it's better to right click and
download rather than try to read a huge file online.
Some documents you may want to print out. Others
you can just leave on disc. Just be sure to store your drives safely. Not included
in this list are the many web sites that are very good resources in themselves.
Rather, these are the files you can download for offline viewing at a later
time. Download them while you still can!
Project
Gutenberg was mentioned as a good place to go for eBooks.
The Smithsonian
Institution is another great resource. They have digitized many older
books, maps, and documents in their collection.
Wikisource has
a nice collection of free eBooks.
One way to search for books no longer in copyright is to use Google
Book Search. Check "full view." If it comes up in the search,
it can be downloaded as a PDF file.
A good alternative to Google is the Internet Archive which includes books,
images, audio, and more. The Internet Archive also hosts the Wayback Machine,
which archives copies of an incredible 85 billion pages from the internet of
years past.
Over 100,000 free eBooks can be accessed through Digital Book Index
2020ok is a directory of
free online books and free eBooks
The British Columbia Digital Library has an impressive Collection, including
dictionaries, encyclopedias, and most importantly, the Holy Bible. It also has a Guide to other digital libraries.
Scribd is an online document
library of free research articles, eBooks, and other content.
A great resource for home schoolers is the Internet's largest
directory of free audio & video learning resources maintained by LearnOutLoud.com.
Check out the postings of Home Schooling
On-line Resources on the The Mental Militia Forums, as well as the "Must
Have" Books/reference material topic.
More than 3,200 pages related to the U. S. Constitution can
be downloaded from The Founders' Constitution
Firearms For any
firearm you own or plan to own, you should have a drawing of its Exploded View,
which will help identify parts and how they fit together. One of the most comprehensive
collections of Exploded Views is the paper edition of the Numrich Arms Catalog, which
in itself is a gold mine of information and very inexpensive for a volume of
over 1200 pages.
But if you only need certain Exploded Views, there are many
places on the internet where you can download them for free:
Gunuts is a good place
to start with hundreds of drawings. Another source is The Okie Gunsmith Shop, which
is apparently no longer operating, but you can still download drawings and
parts lists from its web site.Big Bear Gun Works has
another good list. For pre-WWII firearms, check out Gunsworld. For examples of specific
firearms manufacturers, see Remington, Browning, and SKB Shotguns
The book, The Defensive Use Of Firearms by
Shane C. Henry is available as a download from rec.guns. An enormous amount
of additional gun information is available on the rec.guns web site.
There are several good sources for Military Publications: GlobalSecurity.org has
a huge collection of Military manuals.
Try Integrated Publishing for
access to millions of pages of engineering manuals and documents.
The U.S. Army Materiel Command maintains the LOGSA web site for access
to thousands of Army technical manuals.
The U.S. Air Force maintains the Air Force e-Publishing web site.
As mentioned recently, The
Small Wars Journal has a Reference
Library of downloadable military documents.
The Brooke Clarke
web site has a good guide to accessing military field manuals
Surviving War and Nuclear
Attack For a basic guide, download How
To Survive A Chemical Or Biological Attack.
Nuclear War Survival
Skills, along with some other very interesting books, can be found on
the Oregon
Institute of Science and Medicine web site. This book includes plans
for the Kearny Fallout Radiation Meter (KFM). If you have not bought a radiation
meter, you should at least download the book for future reference. You can
also get the Free
Plans from The Oak Ridge National Laboratory. Nuclear War Survival Skills is also available on the KI4U web site as an online
book, but not as a download.
The Equipped To Survive web site
has some free ebooks, as well as books for sale: Survival,
Evasion, and Recovery and U.S. Army Survival Manual FM 21-76.
The Volunteer Center of Marin County, California has prepared A Guide to Organizing
Neighborhoods for Preparedness, Response and Recovery which you
can copy from their web site.
Medical Resources The Disease
Net has a library of downloadable manuals on survival, weapons, emergency
medicine, and less serious subjects.
Virtual Naval Hospital is
a digital library of naval, military, and humanitarian medicine
The very important field manual, First Aid For Soldiers FM 21-11 can be downloaded here.
One of the best medical handbooks available is the U.S. Army Special Forces Medical Handbook ST31-91B.
It can be downloaded free (as well as additional essential guides) from Delta Gear, Inc.
A newer version of the Medical
Handbook, plus more great material can be downloaded from NH-TEMS
(New Hampshire Tactical Emergency medical support).
The
American Red Cross has some of their disaster guides online for download.
For most of their material, you have to go to the local office. Some of it
can be copied from the Earth
Changes Media Survival Tips page.
The Red Cross Book, First
Aid in Armed Conflicts and Other Situations of Violence
The UK Maritime and Coastguard Agency book, The
Ship Captain's Medical Guide
Hesperian makes
available free downloads of its books for medical treatment in primitive conditions.
Two highly respected guides it publishes are Where There Is No Doctor and Where
There Is No Dentist.
Here is a direct link to the must-have book Survival and
Austere Medicine: An introduction. Australian Survivalist Online
has several additional Files
for downloading.
The Department of Agriculture has
a treasure trove of information for free download. This agency maintains The
National Agricultural Library, a collection of free information on Agriculture,
Food and Nutrition, and other related subjects.
Another USDA web site is the Cooperative Extension
Service. Click on the map to navigate to various Extension offices around
the country. Don't limit your search to just your own state. Many of them
have invaluable information on animals, crops, construction, food preparation
and much more for free download.
The
USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) offers downloads about preventing plant and animal diseases,
among other topics.
The USDA Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS) offers Fact
Sheets about food handling and preparation, and emergency preparedness.
Other Important Reference
Resources The classic outdoor guides, The 10
Bushcraft Books by Richard Graves are available on the Chris Molloy web
site. Free manuals for electronic equipment can be downloaded from eServiceInfo.com. Another source is UsersManualGuide.com. For Ham Radio
and Test Equipment Manuals, the KO4BB web site has Free Downloads, as well as LINKS to many other web sites with free downloads. A few examples
of repair information for outdoor equipment are Penn Reel Schematics,
and Mercury outboard
parts.
Paid Services In
the unlikely event that you can't find free information on the Net to fix that
generator or whatever you need to repair, there are web sites that charge for
information. As a last resort, you can check Sam's PHOTOFACT service manuals,
or RepairManual.com. Hopefully,
that won't be necessary.
The foregoing just begins to scratch the surface. Some of
these free downloads are also available as books or CDs from eBay, Amazon or
from some of the survivalist web sites. That is fine. Sometimes it is easier
to just pay the money and buy the book. But nobody can afford it all, and downloading
gives you access to millions of pages - much more knowledge than you could
acquire through any other method.
« Letter Re: Reactions to Preparedness Course |Main| Letter Re: Preparedness for Less Than a Worst Case, From an Eastern Urbanite's Perspective »
Letter Re: Preparedness While on Business Travel--What to Pack
Jim,
I'm a frequent flyer and I enjoyed the article by LP on what to consider bringing
on business travel ["Preparedness
While on Business Travel --What to Pack"]. Here are some additional
ideas:
Water - I carry an empty bicycle type water bottle through security and fill
it at a drinking fountain before my flight. This keeps you hydrated during
your flight and from having to use the water glasses in your hotel room. (FYI
- they don't really clean
those glasses.)
Food - I carry 4-6 Cliff ["sports energy" type candy] bars in my
laptop bag and my checked luggage. These are dual purpose and can be used anytime
there
is
a
need for
calories.
(like
when your stuck on the bloody tarmac for 3 hours) Store, eat and rotate these
just like you would your storage food at home. They come in lots of great flavors
and can be found at most grocery and drug
stores. Look for them [when they are on sale] under $1 and stock up.
Clothing - This is a tough one that I have I hard time abiding by, but I'll
expand on what LP said in his article. On the plane, wear clothing appropriate
for your "mission" and the climate you are traveling to, near, or
across. It may be 75 degrees F at home, but if your flying to Toronto in the
Winter, you should consider wearing some warm weather gear on the flight. If
you rely
on packed clothing, remember that if your plane is forced down, or if you have
a runway mishap, you will be forced to leave the plane without any of
your luggage. This happened to me personally a few years back when my plane
skidded
off the runway in a snow storm. We were evacuated via the slides and loaded
on buses and taken to an airport that was essentially closed where we were
told that we couldn't get our luggage until after the "crash" investigation
was completed. Fortunately, I did get my luggage promptly the next morning,
but it doesn't take TSHTF thinking
to imagine what might go wrong in a scenario where you are trusting the airline
to deliver your luggage. So, even if your
only mission is to make it to your sales call that next day.... be prepared.
Transportation - If you are forced to travel home without a vehicle, consider
finding a bike before you try to walk home. Urban locations are packed full
of pawnshops and Wally Marts that sell very inexpensive bikes. I'm a cyclist,
so I have an advantage here, but I would think that even the most inexperienced
cyclist would make better time, and be more comfortable, on a bike, then hiking
cross country. Even if you have a rental car, you might want to get a bike
too, and put it in the trunk. You might not make it home on that last tank
of gas and I wouldn't want to be waiting for days in a gas line.
Tech - Download the
free Google Maps application for your phone. It provides
great maps, traffic, and sat images. I also just read that it can be used to
fix your location.
Keep a backup of your emergency phone numbers, personal and financial records
with you, encrypted on a USB drive. If something happens at home and your family
needs info, you may need to access it from your location. - RR
« Letter Re: Light, Noise, and Smoke Discipline for Retreat Security |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Preparedness While on Business Travel--What to Pack, by LP
If you’re like me, there are times when you have to leave almost all
your preparedness stuff behind as you journey by air to strange, far-off places
on behalf of your employer. No access to your well-stocked SUV.
You are alone, and home is hundreds if not thousands of miles away. But disaster
will not be consulting your
personal travel itinerary before it strikes. How best should you prepare?
Let’s first discuss the objective, as it determines the approach. For
most
of us, we leave family, friends, and a (more-or-less) well-stocked homestead
behind. This means Your primary objective is to make it home safely
and quickly. By any means necessary: your return airline ticket, the
rental vehicle, alternative transportation, or if all else fails, on foot. Under
no circumstances do you
want to be swept into the mainstream of refugees, wandering aimlessly to eventually
be herded into government “aid facilities”. (If you’re outside
of CONUS however,
your objective may likely be via the U.S., Embassy). You are different. You have
a specific mission. And you have made preparations to
succeed.
Here
are some ideas I use that are carefully selected to be lightweight, compact,
don’t require you to schlep along extra suitcases, but will give you more
than a leg up on most locals in an emergency.
Luggage - The very best choice is a soft-framed backpack with waist belt,
or carryable duffel. It lets you retain the most stuff on long hauls over mixed
terrain. This may be impractical for some folks, so the next best thing is a
prime-quality rolling carryon with a locking collapsible handle, combined with
a laptop backpack. The rolling carryon keeps the weight off your back, but will
be useless off pavement. That’s why you must bring your
laptop in a backpack carrying case. That will become your primary backpack (you
will most likely be
leaving the laptop behind, but you keep all your data on a memory stick, right?).
Get it with--or sew on--attachment points on the bottom and sides of the backpack.
Bring strapping, bought at a hiking store, this lets you lash up bedding you “borrow” from
the hotel room, or other provisions you acquire along the way, and add a waist
strap for long-haul walking. Plan on checking the large piece of luggage – otherwise
you won’t be able to bring along a number of key items like edged weapons.
Granted,
you’re less equipped during your flight, but life is full of compromises.
Keep your medications, food, flashlight, communications gear, money and a couple
of
layers
of clothing with you on the plane. If you can’t do without a briefcase,
forgo the fancy leather banker version in favor of nylon w/ a shoulder carry
strap. You must be ready to carry everything you need on your back in the event
you have to walk it home, and the right briefcase can become an asset [instead
of a hindrance.]
Money and valuables - Assume that your credit, debit, and ATM cards
will become useless in an emergency. That leaves cash and tangibles. I bring
at least $1,000
in assorted
bills with me when I travel domestically, and several thousand when I travel
internationally. This will enable you to buy the food, transportation, weapons,
and lodging you need to make it back, if it can indeed be bought. As I am not
rich, this presents a burden, but I believe it is very worthwhile to ensure success.
Hoard your cash when on travel – use credit for every thing so you have
the most available when you really need it. If you’re partial to wearing
expensive watches or jewelry, consider them barterable (have an inexpensive,
sturdy backup watch in that case) – be discrete so you do not attract mutants.
Keep your cash/valuables out of sight, in multiple places, and don’t leave
it in the hotel room. Under most scenarios short of total meltdown, people will
continue to honor paper money long enough for you to make it home, so I don’t
see a strong need for gold/silver coins. [JWR Adds: I always
wear
a
discreet money belt when I
travel. Keeping in mind cross-border currency movement restrictions, you can
easily
carry
the
equivalent
of $8,000 US Dollars if you carry it in the form of EU500 Euro notes or $500
Canadian Dollar notes. (Sadly, the largest US bill in circulation is the $100
note, which
is five times more bulky.)
Both the
Canadian and Euro "500" denomination notes are
hard
to
find,
but worth the search, and even worth paying a premium, just for the sake of
compactness.]
Clothing - Even if the forecast is warm and sunny for your entire planned trip,
bring rain and cold weather gear. Forget umbrellas, they are flimsy and occupy
a hand. Use the layering approach – a fold-up waterproof hooded shell in
a dark color, collapsible down vest and/or a couple of fleece or thin wool sweaters,
and an Under-Armour-style inner layer (remember you are fitting all this into
a standard piece of luggage). Bring sturdy hiking shoes; wear them on the plane,
and keep your dress shoes handy in your checked luggage. Bring at least two pair
of hiking socks and liners (one to wear, the other undergoing wash/dry), even
if it’s just an overnight trip, comfortable pants, a warm hat with ventilation
and a good brim, sunglasses, and thin gloves. By wearing the heavier/bulkier
items as you travel, you minimize the space demands on the luggage. Include a
bandana
or two – they have a thousand uses.
Food - You want compactness, indefinite storage, and high energy density,
so you can stay on the go for several days. My favorite is Go Lean energy bars.
Generally, look for high fiber brands, as they ward off hunger longer. Unsalted
peanuts and M&Ms are also good choices. I bring 6-12 bars, secreted in nooks
and crannies. Get a set of lexan resin eating utensils from a hiking store, and
a P-38 can opener (put that in checked luggage). If things go longer, use your
cash or resort to hobo cooking (canned food heated over fire).
Water - make your canteen from the 24-oz water bottle you bought for your flight,
by bringing along a water bottle carry strap like those found at amusement parks.
Don’t forget a small bottle of purification tablets – you can use
your bandana as a 1st-tier sieve/filter.
Self-defense - Limited options due to the TSA restrictions
for airline flights.
Mailing firearms
to
yourself at your hotel [for an extended stay] is theoretically possible, but
really
very
impractical
in most
business trips. In any event do bring your folding knife with combination
straight
and serrated blade (two is better than one) in you checked baggage,
an impact weapon like a nylon kubotan or a carabiner employed as a keychain,
and a flashlight
(w/ multiple extra batteries) that is blindingly bright and sturdy enough to
be used as an impact weapon . Make sure the carabiner is a real one from a hiking
store, and is big enough to get all your fingers into so you can use it as “aluminum
knuckles”. For carry-on, bring several thick rubber bands, so you can tightly
wrap one of those in-flight magazines into a makeshift club. In an emergency
after you arrive, if you cannot acquire a firearm or larger edged weapon, then
use your folding knife to fashion a sturdy walking staff / club / spear from
a mop handle or similar. Hiking stores carry very compact sharpening stones that
can clip to your coat’s zipper – if you are in transit for a couple
of weeks, you will need to keep an edge on your knives. Note that in some locales
such as England and New York City, carrying a knife, or any “weapon” is
illegal.
Be informed, and use your own judgment. [JWR Adds: A roll of
quarters (or British One Pound Coins or One Euro coins) can serve the dual purpose
of
being
an
impact
weapon
(a
"Sunday
Bar")
and being
available
to make
emergency pay
phone calls. I can't imagine any jurisdiction that would charge you with carrying
a "concealed" roll of coins. (Although once
I witnessed
the
TSA goons asking
a
fellow
passenger
to take the dimes out
of a paper
roll and
confiscate the coin roll paper. Oh, I felt so much safer after they
did that!)]
Communications - Bring power adapters for your cellular phone, both AC and, critically
DC vehicle power, and windup (FreePlay). Bring a roll of coins
for a payphone
(just
in case you can still find one – they are still common in Europe). If you
have the option of choosing your cell phone model, consider a tri-band GSM-mode
smartphone with Internet connectivity, a USB port and USB to Ethernet adapter
(don’t forget the cables) – this preserves the most vital functions
of a PC in an emergency: news feeds and e-mail, without its bulk. Some smartphones,
like the Nokia N95, include GPS and maps, too. GSM is the world standard, so
it will work in both US and Europe. Keep phone numbers and addresses of extended
family and friends, in case you need to make a pit stop on your way. An earbud-style
AM/FM radio, so you can keep up with radio news and weather reports.
Shelter / Light - Keep it simple and lightweight for starters, and pick
up stuff as you go. Strike anywhere matches in a waterproof container and a magnesium
striker-type fire-starter in checked baggage; buy a disposable
lighter or two on arrival and discard on return, a space blanket, and one or
two 3-mil thick
contractor garbage bags for rain poncho, ground cloth, and/or tarp, and 50 feet
of parachute cord. Have an LED microlight
on your keychain, in red illumination,
with
an extra button battery or two. This conserves your tactical flashlight’s
life. [If things looks bad,] borrow the bedding from your hotel room and strap
it
to
your
backpack
or
stow in your rental car’s trunk – you can pay them back later.
Transportation - When traveling in a group, always be the one to rent
the
car,
so
you have options and maintain control. When you can, try to make it a compact
4x4,
like
a Ford
Escape (companies always want you to get the absolute cheapest, so this is easier
said than done). Keep the gas tank filled. Onboard GPS navigation options are
becoming
commonplace, but at $10+ per day, expensive – it may be worth it to you.
(See “navigation” below).
Medications and First Aid - Don’t assume you’ll be home in
a day or so. Bring enough prescription meds for at least two weeks. I also bring
a very small first aid kit – it fits into a pants pocket and holds band-aids,
a disinfectant cream, sun block in stick form, ibuprofen, anti-diarrhea pills,
and tweezers. Separately, I include a couple of sanitary napkins and tape as
a compress, and a small bottle of insect repellant. Having balance is key here – you
will not need a full kit. If you break a leg or are shot, you will need more
help than you can self-administer. To stay clean, I take a refill pack of baby
wipes, a trial size bottle of hand sanitizer, and a small bar of soap. I also
bring a blister kit for my feet – most people don’t hike 30 miles
a day with a pack, and blisters can be totally immobilizing, with an attendant
risk of infection. Taking good measures with your feet, starting with the right
footwear will help you get home in one piece.
Navigation - Be able to figure how to get back home, from several routes.
Get a good street map of the city you are visiting, and multi-state AAA highway
maps between there and home – don’t bring a book, or piles of topo
maps – too big and heavy. I have a small compass that clips to the zipper
of my shell. A GPS unit may be a good idea – they are compact and full
of map data – but they run on batteries, and will be inoperative if the
disaster involves an EMP,
or the government turns off GPS in response to a terror attack. Compact binoculars
are very important for reconnaissance. If abroad,
know how to get to the embassy, and to major rail junctions, seaports, and border
crossings.
Utility - Bring a multi-tool (again, in checked baggage) – I prefer
the Leatherman Wave with bit assortment, but YMMV. As I said, a flashlight will
be
essential,
with extra batteries.
All this can and does fit in one piece of rollaway luggage along with my regular
business accoutrements for one or more weeks of travel – mine is a Victorinox
model with an expandable main compartment.
In a disaster, it may take several
weeks
to make it home from your trip – the preceding advice will get you off
to
a
good start. Good luck and I hope that nobody ever needs any of this!
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Dumping of US Dollar Could Trigger "Economic September 11" (Posted August 29, 2005) »
Letter Re: Plan B -- Your Bug-Out Route
Mr. Rawles,
In the event of a natural or manmade disaster you may need to retreat
despite extensive preparations at your base of operations, whether in suburbia
or in the
mountains. You may find yourself in a desperate situation; facing forest fire,
fallout from a malfunctioning nuclear power plant, terrorism, organized bands
of looters or an invading army. Where will you go? How will you get there?
What is your route?
Whether you have been preparing for years or weeks you need a Plan “B”.
Identifying the threat will help you determine the safest route and mode
of transportation to a pre-selected alternative location(s); a location with
several
months of water, food, fuel and shelter. If you need to leave your base of
operation quickly in an event like a forest fire or malfunctioning nuclear
power plant then a pre-planned route on back roads with a well stocked bug-out
vehicle
may be the answer. But, what happens if the roads are unsafe or impassible?
With good backpacking equipment or properly outfitted bike and bike trailer
you can carry about two weeks of food, tent, sleeping bag and other necessities.
What are you going to do after two weeks?
I pre-planned my backpacking and biking bug-out routes with the intent of
avoiding populated areas and main roads. These routes are predominately on
logging roads,
hiking trails and/or through the bush as circumstances dictate with a pre-positioned
supply cache approximately every 25 miles. Close to each cache location are
pre-selected camping spots located in the thickest and most remote cover
available with a nearby water source. Each cache would provide a minimum
(1) week re-supply
of food and white gas fuel (no fire, no smoke) allowing me to continue on
to my destination or re-group and/or recuperate. Every 50 miles or so I would
have shelter building materials, tools, ammunition, water filter, fishing
and
trapping equipment in addition to food and fuel to allow for a longer stay.
One cache would include an old canoe for a major river crossing or travel.
Flexibility in a plan “B” could provide you with a plan “C” and “D”.
I plan to use 5 gallon plastic buckets with Mylar or plastic liners inside
heavy plastic 55 gallon trash drum liners buried at least two feet below
the surface of the ground at cache locations. I plan to use a mix of foods;
store bought goods, meals ready to eat (MREs) and individually packaged freeze
dried backpacking meals. These locations would be accessible if traveling
by vehicle or bicycle or foot route(s). I consider these caches to be “throw
away” and would continue to add new buckets/new caches yearly as time
and money allow. When considering a plan “B” destination I chose
a location several hundred miles away should circumstances require relocation
from my home region with the built-in option of returning home along the
same route.
Here in the northern tier of the country winter travel must be considered
a possibility, being an unprepared refugee in the middle of a sub-zero cold
snap
would not be pleasant. Being prepared means layered winter clothing, winter
footwear, winter camping equipment and plenty of white gas or unleaded gasoline
stove fuel to melt snow or boil water. Expect to carry a 60 to 80 pound pack.
My plan includes spending a winter (December thru March) away from my base
of operations. A bug-out route /cache plan may allow you to take
control of your situation and reduce your chances of becoming a refugee, internee
or casualty in a desperate situation. Seeking the Lord God Almighty’s
protection, salvation and will for your life through prayer in Jesus’ name
will allow
Him to take control of your situation whatever the circumstances are!!! - Jeff
S. in New Hampshire
« Letter Re: Advice on Compact Solar-Powered Refrigerators for Insulin |Main| Note from JWR: »
"Zeroing In" Your Bugout Bag, by SF in Hawaii
Last week my wife told me that another couple had gotten reservations at the
cabins at Haleakela
State Park for the Labor Day Weekend. We would hike across the crater
floor,
then down the Kaupo Gap. These are hard to come by and since we were invited,
I felt we had
to go. Great, a chance to try out my bug out bag. I gave my feet a liberal and
prophylactic spraying of anti-fungal medication (a ritual I would end up doing
every morning on that trip) and put on my Bug-Out Bag (BOB).
Before we left,
I
unscrewed the aluminum pole from a mop, checked to make sure my
backup knife would fit
on it
and now I had myself both
a strong and lightweight walking stick as well as a spear in case a wild boar
came too close. The BOB weighed in at 55 pounds. I'm 160 and with the
backpack
I was using it felt like a manageable weight.
On the way there, the steering and brakes on the car went out. I hit the emergency
brake and slowed down. The engine just turned off. Since it had power steering
and
brakes, when the car turned off, they went off too. Strange for a reasonably
new car. It started up again so I figured EMP was
ruled out. We drove up to about 10,000 feet, got our gear on and started hiking.
It was a steep decline into
the volcanic caldera/crater and within about 10 minutes I noticed a hot feeling
in the heels of my feet. You see, as a sufferer of athletes foot, I tend to keep
my shoes loose. Bad idea. Loose shoes make blisters. I stopped and got out the
moleskins but I didn't have a pair of scissors. Let me say for the record, a
knife is not a pair of scissors. These are separate tools. There I was with my
BAK (Big
A** knife) trying to cut moleskin pieces. Not only was it the wrong tool for
the
job, but one
slip and it would be a bloody mess.
To take the pressure off my heels, I walked
native style (toe to heel) and this helped.
We hiked for the rest of the day through what can only be described at the surface
of Mars and finally arrived at the first cabin. The manual pedometer gave me
some lousy data. It was set for a 2 foot step/4 foot stride length but I forgot
to take into consideration that stride changes with inclines and declines. When
I got there I tried out my Zipstove for
the first time. At first glance, it looked like something made in a high school
metal shop class,
and it's a lot heavier than other stoves, but then again, I didn't need to pack
any fuel. It has a battery operated fan built in and get fires hot real fast.
I hit my sparker into a cotton ball with some vaseline rubbed in and presto.
I dropped the little ball of fire into the stove, and added a few twigs and turned
on the fan. Wow. The stove worked great. In a minute or two dinner was on it's
way. I'll be investing in their titanium version and perhaps I can swap out their
metal fan for a plastic one to drop the weight. I was cooking in a titanium
Titan pot and I was concerned that
due to the rapid heat transfer of titanium I'd burn the food but it never happened.
Another nice thing about cooking with titanium is that as fast as it heats up,
it cools down too and less than a minute after taking it off the fire, the top
was cool enough grab and move around. We sat around when the lights went out,
lit some candles and played Hearts for a few hours. (Make note to get Hoyle's
Encyclopedia of Card games.) Before I went to bed I inspected my feet. Yup.
Two huge blisters, one on each foot. These were the biggest blisters I'd ever
had. Each one covered my entire heel. I also had burns on the backs of my hands.
I
was wearing nylon
pants and a long sleeve shirt
to keep out of the sun, and because we all know 'cotton kills.' I also had
a
cloth over my head which I kept in place by wearing a pair of sunglasses which
had a retaining strap on them to keep from getting lost during activity. The
strap around the back of my head kept the rag in place nicely and with the exception
of a spot on my nose, I escaped the searing rays of Hawaii at 10,000 feet. What
I didn't think to cover was the backs of my hands. The were bright red and angry
when I saw them. I cut squared of cloth off my head rag and placed on the backs
of each hand. I held them in place (mostly) with rubber bands around my wrists.
They kept me from getting burned any worse, but it was a constant annoyance repositioning
them for the rest of the trip. (Make note, put tactical gloves in BOB).
The next morning after having some oatmeal, I packed up. I put on another pair
of socks and this was helpful as with less wiggle room, my feet didn't slip around
so much and maybe I wouldn't make any new blisters. My wife suggested that in
her experience (She hiked the Thorong
La Pass.
I lance the blisters. (Make note to bring needle in first aid kit) I left the
blisters alone. Personal preference. The other fellow on the trip I noticed had
the soles of one of his shoes come off. He was wrapping cord around them to hold
them together when I suggested he use the awl tool on his swiss army knife to
stitch them back on his shoe. He liked this idea and it worked. (Make note, find
that Speedy
Stitcher and add it to my BOB.)
The second day was excruciatingly painful. I can't recall the last time I was
in that much pain for that long a period. I now had pain along the entire bottom
surface of my foot. There was no comfortable way to walk. I was very grateful
for the walking stick! Sure I could have make one from wood on the trail, but
it would have been much heavier and bulkier to be as strong as the cheap aluminum
tube.
After hours of promising myself I would never go hiking again, we arrived at
the second cabin. At this point the fellow's second shoe fell apart. Keep in
mind that both shoes were in good condition before we left. His wife was also
having shoe trouble but she overcame it with a safety pin. (Make note, safety
pins.) More cards and dinner and now the other people were complaining. No
one else had a good external frame pack and their hips and backs were sore. For
me, it was just my feet. Even though my pack outweighed anyone else's there by
a factor of 2, it was a good pack and now showing itself to be worth the high
cost.
The third day we had to hike down from over 6,000' to 1,000'. We'd already gone
from 10,000' to 6,000 the previous two days and left the Martian landscape. We
were now in fog enshrouded hills and rain forests. The next 5,000' would be a
30 degree incline though rain forests and meadows. I filled up my 4 steel water
bottles with filtered water from my Katadyn and told my wife that with the condition
of my feet, I wanted to leave a hour and a half before the rest of the group
as I'd be going slow. I also wanted to hike in the morning to stay out of the
heat . She finally agreed and we slushed though thigh high wet grass and we were
both
soaked in short order. It was about five minutes into the hike that I learned
that not only were my hiking shoes too big, but they weren't waterproof nor even
water
resistant. The cool dewy water was sloshing around in by boots for hours. It
wasn't just an annoyance either. When I took the map I got from the Ranger station
out of my pocket, it was soaked and the pages were sticking together. Oh, did
I mention that the trail I was taking was right along a crease on the map and
due to the water damage it was totally illegible? (Make note, put Zip lock bags
in BOB).
Although she didn't say anything, I know she was pissed. Cold, wet and pissed
but when she realized how hard the hike was getting, she looked at me. "I'll
just say it once and get it over with. I told you so." She thanked me.
We smiled and moved on. That extra time was great to have. I used an altimeter
to
guesstimate where we were on the map. I didn't bring my topos with me, but
it was a great psychological benefit to know how much longer you had to go.
My wife started complaining about her left knee under when we stopped at an
old growth Koa tree. We snacked on ostrich filets (kept at 150 degrees in the
oven
overnight), peanuts and some chocolate. She wanted a Koa walking stick. "But
that's a heavier wood and look, no straight branches here darling." Well,
she wanted one anyway so I hacked her a walking stick, put a point on the bottom
and cut away the bark where her hand would grip it. At about 4,000 feet I saw
my wife walking backwards for a few seconds. I tried it and it was great. Although
it was riskier, I couldn't walk forwards anymore. Aside from the fact that
my blisters were hurting, I now had somehow developed a pain in my left knee
too.
It only hurt when I walked forward, or sideways (yes I tried that too) so my
wife and I walked backwards down the rocky and treacherous declines for miles.
The trails were covered with golf ball and base ball sized spherical lava rocks
that acted like ball bearings. It was hard going and nerve racking. I made
us both drink like fishes and soon I was dripping with sweat and she was peeing
like a racehorse. Every time my mouth got dry I drank and so did she. I wasn't
thirsty but I drank anyhow. Then the water stopped feeling good to drink. Dang,
with all this drinking and sweating I was beginning to going hyponatremic.
(Make
note, put ORS packets
in BOB). On the milder inclines I tried walking while dragging my left leg
behind me to avoid having to bend it. It was slow going and again,
my wife thanked me for getting us out early. We came across some ambiguous
fork in the road and she lost it for a bit. I said that I thought both trails
would
probably work and let her pick the route. She picked and then got nervous. "What
if it's the wrong one?" She was starting to lose it again. "This
trail is the correct trail." I said forcefully and with more
confidence that I really had about her choice. She seemed okay with that and
we kept going.
We used the last of the water that everyone said I was crazy to bring just minutes
before reaching the rendezvous point. One of the women in the group I later found
out had a near nervous breakdown as she never knew how much farther she had to
go. That altimeter kept my wife and I sane.
I'm finally home and writing this out before I forget. The blisters will probably
heal in a week the knee, who knows. (Make note, put ace bandages and maybe
even knee and ankle supports in BOB). I'll be walking with a cane for a bit
but no
permanent damage, I don't think. I will now have a dedicated foot first aid
section for my BOB. Consider giving your BOB a test run. You may find things
you want
in it you don't have now and some things you can do without. I think of my
BOB like a gun now. If it's all shiny and new but not zeroed in, you may be
in for
some nasty surprises. - SF in Hawaii
« Five Letters Re: New Zealand--Gun Laws and Immigration |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: The Importance of Stocking Up on Batteries
James:
I have been corresponding with an infantry soldier (E-6 [pay grade]) in Iraq
named Ray that I met through AnySoldier.com.
BTW, thanks for running that free ad for them on SurvivalBlog. All those "forgotten" soldiers
need our real support--not just a "Support
Our Troops" yellow ribbon magnet on the backs of our cars. In the last
8 or 9 months I have sent more than 30 "care packages" in [Priority
Mail] Flat Rate boxes to [AnySoldier.com addressees
in] Iraq
and Afghanistan.
In our e-mails, one of the things that Ray mentioned a couple of times really
impressed me: It is that one of the crucial logistics for modern armies
is spare batteries. He described how they go through hundreds of
them, for radios, tactical flashlights, sensors, laser target illuminators
and designators, and night vision gear/thermal sights. As I look forward to
potential hard times in this country, I think that we should learn a lesson
from the Iraq experience: never run out of batteries.
So I've resolved to never let my family run out of batteries, even if the "problem" lasts
for a decade. I took your advice and got a small [5 watt] solar [photovoltaic]
panel from Northern
Tool & Equipment
which
I've already rigged to charge batteries, using an "automobile" (12
volt DC) charging tray. (It looks like a regular home charger, but it has a
12 volt [input power] cable with a cig[arette] lighter plug.) This gives me
straight DC-to-DC charging, without an energy hogging inverter in the middle
of the equation.
Thanks also for making that suggestion! For my retreat , I'm planning to buy
one of the
8 watt panels from Safecastle, in a similar battery charging arrangement.
That way I'll have a separate charging system, even if I have to E&E on
foot and leave my 5 watt battery charging panel at home. I've also stocked
up very heavily on nickel
[metal]
hydride
[NiMH] batteries.of various
and sundry
sizes,
plus
some
of the older nickel cadmium [NiCd] batteries, and some Duracells. My question
is: What more should I do, and what is the best way to store all of the batteries
that I'm acquiring? Thanks for all that you provide for free in SurvivalBlog.
You should make the 10
Cent Challenge mandatory. Maybe with a password for most of what is on
your site that only paid subscribers would have. You are way too generous.
Giving it all away is no way to make a living. With Kind Regards
-
Paul
G.
JWR Replies: Thank you very much for raising this important
issue. You are absolutely right. Without a reliable long term supply of batteries
we will lose some of our best tactical advantages for retreat security: radio
communication, electronic intrusion detection systems, and night vision goggles/sights.
Think about it: The only way that a small group can effectively defend
a rural retreat is with these technological advantages. Without batteries,
we would soon be back to 19th Century technology and tactics. Since modern
tactical electronics are "force multipliers", the lack of them would
reduce the effectiveness of our defensive measures. Making up for that
loss would necessitate having a lot more manpower. And more manpower
means more retreat floor space and more food. That additional food means more
land under cultivation, and more land under cultivation and means a larger
perimeter to defend, and so forth. You can see where this logic leads: Instead
of owning a little two family 20 acre low profile retreat, you'd need 10 to
12 armed and trained adults and perhaps 40 to 100 acres, depending on rainfall
and soil fertility. Being the local Lord of the Manor is not conducive to keeping
a low profile!
You are right that it is wise to stock up on batteries. Try to get rechargeable
batteries for as many devices as possible. In fact, compatibility with
rechargeables (versus expendable "throw away" batteries) should be
a key determining factor when selecting any electrical or electronic equipment. My
favorite source for batteries via mail order is All-Battery.com.
(One of our affiliate advertisers.) They have great prices and a huge selection.
If space permits, you should store all of your small batteries in a sealed bag (to prevent condensation) in the back of your refrigerator.
This will extend their useful life.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Poll Results: An Exercise in Humility--a Poll on Embarrassing Mistakes »
Letter Re: Advice on Where to Learn Practical, Tactical Skills
Dear Jim:
As my confidence in the dollar depreciates and my desire for skills
increases, I'm wanting to convert FRNs
into hands-on knowledge. What weeknight or weekend workshops would
you recommend? Are there any places
where you can learn Army Ranger skills without joining the military?
Animal husbandry, and so on? - Spencer
JWR Replies: There is a tremendous wealth of free
or low-cost classes available--enough to keep you busy every weekend
of
the year
if you are willing to drive a distance. If you have time and
just a bit of money, you can get some very well-rounded training in
skills that
are quite applicable to post-TEOTWAWKI living. In
my experience, the most cost-effective training opportunities in the
U.S.
include:
American
Red Cross First Aid and CPR classes
Local Community College, Park District, and Adult Education classes.
They offer classes on metal shop, auto shop, wood shop, leather crafting,
ceramics, baking, gardening, welding, and so forth.
RWVA Appleseed Shoots.
These are held all over the nation. They offer great training for
very
little money. The West
Side Sportsman's Club,
located on the west side of Evansville, Indiana is hosting the national
RWVA shoot on June 30 / July 1st. The
Red Brush Gun Range, located on the east side
of Evansville is having another Appleseed, and they're also having
an Appleseed Boot Camp. The boot camp starts on Monday
October 22 thru
Friday
Oct. 26th. Then
the Appleseed Shoot is on Saturday Oct. 27 and Sunday Oct. 28. The deal is
if you want to attend both the Boot Camp and the Appleseed match, you
do so for $200. Yes, for just $200 you can have seven
days of
top
notch
marksmanship training.
U.S. Army ROTC classes,
the ROTC Ranger program (administered by individual university ROTC
Departments), and ROTC
Leader's Training Course, aka Basic Camp). The first two years
of the ROTC program--including Leader's Training Course--are available
to any full-time enrolled
undergraduate college student
(including "cross-enrolled" junior college students) with
no contractual obligation. Participation in the ROTC Ranger
program by anyone other than enrolled ROTC cadets is usually up to
the discretion of the instructor or the PMS.
When I was in a ROTC Ranger program back in the early 1980s, we had
two Marine Corps PLC students
and an Administration of Justice (police science)
major in our Ranger program, as supernumeraries. So even if you don't
sign up for ROTC classes, you might be able to be involved in a Ranger
program.
Of particular note: If you sign up for the four week ROTC Leader's
Training Course at Fort
Knox,
Kentucky,
you will actually get paid to
attend, plus get a couple of free pairs of combat boots. To be eligible
to participate in ROTC, you must be under 31 years of age
on Dec 31 st of the year that you expect to graduate. (Or possibly
34 years old, with waivers.) The best chance to get a slot at the ROTC
Leader's Training Course is during your sophomore year of college,
but when I was there I met a graduate student that had wangled a slot.
(He eventually got a direct
commission, by virtue of his ROTC "contact hours")
LDS (Mormon)
cannery classes/canning sessions. Many "wards" have
their own canneries, which are generally open to non-Mormons. (OBTW,
the LDS food
storage calculator web page is a very
useful planning tool.)
FEMA /
CERT
Classes (Classroom and Internet courses, some with team commitment)
ARRL amateur radio classes.
Species-Specific or Breed-Specific Livestock and Pet Clubs
NRA and State Rifle and
Pistol Association training and shooting events
Fiber
Guilds (spinning and weaving) and local knitting clubs
Mountain Man/Rendezvous Clubs (Blackpowder
shooting, flint knapping, soap making, rope making, etc.)
University/County
Agricultural Extension and Cattleman's Club classes
on livestock, gardening, weed control, canning, et cetera
Medical
Corps small
group classes. I heard that they have scheduled just one hands-on
Combat/Field Medicine Course thusfar for 2007. It
will be at the OSU Extension Campus, in
Belle Valley Ohio, April 20-21-22. That class is full, but
check their web site for additional course dates. They offer
great
training--including advanced life saving topics that the
American
Red
Cross doesn't teach--at
very reasonable
cost.
Volunteer
Fire department (VFD) classes
(usually with some commitment)
Candle and Soap Making Clubs/Conventions
Boy Scouts and 4H.
Informal, un-enrolled ("strap hanger") training is available
for adults--just take your kids to the meetings and don't leave.
I would also consider these less important (but still worthwhile)
training opportunities, as time permits:
Sheriff's posse and Search and Rescue (SAR) programs
Police department "Ride Along" and Police Reserve programs
Civil Air Patrol (CAP) courses.
Civic/Ethnic Club cooking classes
« Two Letters Re: Advice on Security for Unattended Retreats |Main| Special Note from JWR: »
Letter from Matt Bracken Re: Blue Water Sailing as a Retreat Option?, by CMC
Hi Jim,
I read today's offering with great interest. There is no point in trying
to resolve the debate on boats vs. land retreats ("the army of
maneuver vs. the army of the fortress") as this is all a matter
of personal conjecture and preferences. However, I would suggest that
for those folks who live in a coastal area where if the balloon goes
up their home location may be untenable, and their highway escape as
well, a boat does provide at least a viable mid-term option.
Many areas of our Atlantic and Gulf coasts have most of the people
concentrated into a relatively small percent of the land, and vast
areas of bays, rivers and estuaries that are almost in virgin condition,
and unreachable except by water. There are literally thousands of miles
of such places where a person living on a sailboat or other craft could
stay off of the radar for months or even longer, while the emergency
situation ashore sorted itself out. At that point, the low-profile
boat survivalist could decide to return home, stay put, move to another
state, or even to cross an ocean.
A boat is not a panacea, and it's not for everyone, but given a choice
between "bugging in" in a potentially violent urban area,
or heading out into gridlocked highways, I know what I would choose
if I lived near the Atlantic or Gulf Coasts. (Most of the Pacific coast
presents a very different picture, due to its geography.)
A low-profile shoal draft houseboat (is there any other kind?) would
also work in many coastal and even inland areas, although of course the
oceans are off limits and fuel will eventually run out. A diesel powered
houseboat would work well with cached drums of fuel hidden in likely
areas. The idea with a houseboat is that they would rarely move, (burn
fuel), but that they have that option. Houseboats are also very easy
to camouflage, and can be located where fish would be available and also
small crop farming could be concealed, all while hiding well off of the
highway and road systems. - Matt
Bracken,
Northeast Florida
JWR Replies: Many thanks for your input. Until you
mentioned it, I hadn't seriously considered the "brown water" option
for boaters in delta or estuary regions. Perhaps painting a house boat
in a flat earth tone color might work--along with some judicious use
of
camouflage nets and burlap to cover any windows or chrome that might
reflect. Readers that do a little searching might find just the right
place to tie up, deep in a delta. Many
delta regions
have
extensive
state
and Federal park "wetlands" that are seldom traveled by anyone.
And you are correct in your assertion that a lot of that country can
only be
accessed by water. That would make someone relatively safe from bands
of looters.
BTW, there is one part of the Pacific coast that is intriguing: The
Sacramento River delta region. This delta is said to have more shoreline
than the entire California coastline. It is unfortunately downwind
from several nuclear targets (most notably the Concord Naval Weapons
Station),
but
in anything
other than a nuke scenario, the Sacramento delta region might
make a practical bug-out locale.
« Letter Re: Advice on Sawdust and Other Barn Waste as Fertilizers |Main| Note from JWR: »
Blue Water Sailing as a Retreat Option?, by CMC
Coming from a Southern family and having hunted as a child and adult,
and having backpacked the Smokies, I would not want to depend on
a mountain
man scenario for survival during TEOTWAWKI.
I want to walk a bit further with this. Most particularly consideration
of a sailing vessel
and the ocean as a way of survival. I seriously question the
concept of mobility, particularly mobility at sea. I remember Sun
Tzu said something to the effect that "when the army of maneuver
meets the army of the fortress, the army of the fortress generally
looses." But I think that the mobility concept here may be an
exception to what Sun Tzu said. Having sailed since I was 9, and
my first offshore
passage with a friend of my dad's and his son when I was 10, I ve
been drawn to the ocean rather than the golf course. My first and
incidentally most survivable offshore capable boat
was an old converted
ships lifeboat, wooden hull, wooden masts, plow wire for standing
rigging and canvas and cotton for sails. Simple, basic, rough. The
preceding sentence is read in a few seconds and many can visualize
what's written there. But its a little more in depth than that.
The “in depth” goes something like this. With a wooden
hull and plow wire rigging and cotton sails a knowledgeable person
can take a vessel like that and maintain and/or repair her anywhere
in the world given a lot of [time and] luck. Taking
an axe to cut down a tree then a foot adze to rough out a plank,
the
a box
plane and a draw
knife to fine the plank up (bear in mind all of these tools you carry deep
sea
in something that is less than 40 feet on the waterline) and spike
it in to the hull to replace a defective plank. Then
the aforementioned plank is in the hull the same material that the
sails are from , raw cotton is used to caulk the plank periphery
to make the repair watertight. Then its paid or sealed with a
white lead and copper oxide and linseed oil mixture. Or use
the same tools on another tree carefully chosen to be a mast or bowsprit
or gaff or boom. Where of course all of this leads is to the
discipline nay more like way of life of wooden boat building and
seamanship,and being able to survive that way. Or survive any
way--whether on the ocean or a ranch or farm its no different. It
is the same way of life with each of their own peculiarities, for
many different paths of survival but all of them take time
and none are learned in a year or 18 months from a book.
My first and second boats were both wood, the second one was a 42 foot
John G. Alden design, cutter rigged and built in 1936, that I sailed
and lived aboard for 15 years. She was still going deep water and crossing
oceans over 50 years after she was constructed, and still is today.
I remember the first major re-fit I did taking the working sails off
and storing them in my parents basement, (I was a youngster then and
they were still alive and tolerant of an eccentric non-golfing kid)
and the second night of that, going to get the bare minimum (mainsail,
working jib, staysail, a genoa and storm trysail) at 10 PM because
I didn't like the feeling of insecurity--of not being able to
sail out of my slip, sail out of the marina, sail out of the harbor,
and the bay if necessary. My parents did not understand then .I'm not
sure I did completely either. I do much more clearly now.
An offshore vessel departure is something that does not involve just
slipping the lines and leaving the marina. It starts years before
that point in the preparation and continuing maintenance necessary
to prep a small (under 60 feet long) sailing vessel to cross oceans
and more importantly those who sail in her. I think its the same with
a survival retreat. With a boat, each hull material is a complete discipline
in itself. Each way of life (ocean, farm, ranch) is a discipline unto
itself with many interlocking parts. Wood hull with galvanized
plow wire or for that matter the same wire (1 x 7) that the utility
companies use to guy poles, and cotton, flax or canvas sails and manila
line for running rigging is a survivable vessel. More modern more easily
maintainable materials at least now: aluminum(my favorite
hull material hands down) , steel (my second choice)or fiberglass (my
least
favorite)
accompanied by stainless steel running rigging, dacron or carbon fiber
sails and sometimes masts are only maintainable with the society
and level of industrialization that we have now. I was
a navigator in modern
fiberglass boats years ago in Latin America. I tried to replace a
piece of 1 x 19 stainless standing rigging and its fittings on a sailing
vessel. If you want 1 x 7 or 7 x 7 [mild] steel or galvanized rigging,
no problem. However, stainless, dacron sails, synthetic line running
rigging, argon gas for aluminum welding and or the equipment to do
it with, then forget it. That pretty fiberglass (barrels of
oil for resin and glass fibre cloth) production boat is repairable
these days
on
the shores of the
industrialized countries, but in the third or fourth world
it won't happen. Post-TEOTWAWKI it won't happen, either. Post-TEOTWAWKI,
what the h**l are you gonna do with a refrigerator with a TV in the
door? Post-TEOTWAWKI you will find families who build boats out of
wood and galvanized steel and so forth and have been doing so for generations.
Primitive but effective .That pretty GPS chart
plotter you carry
and its backup--and
for that matter all of your onboard electronics and electrical may
be a victim of EMP.
The navigational gear may be a victim of the vulnerability of the GPS
satellite constellation going down due either to EMP (unlikely
to get them all in high orbit with one shot) or lack of ground correction
of satellite position due to orbital perturbations. Interesting concept.
How many carry paper charts. How many can do the old lunar distance
sights and calculations to determine with reasonable accuracy, the
correct time to determine one's longitude a.k.a. Joshua Slocum (remember
the EMP? WWV and WWVH probably along with CHU and a host of other
time stations are off the air either temporarily or maybe for good
along with,--depending on your luck quotient--most or all of your onboard
electronics, particularly in a wood or fiberglass
hull. And for that matter how many carry a sextant and the tables
(HO 214,
219, 229 or
249) to reduce the sun, moon and star sights you take or even better
yet found a 1920s-era copy of Nathaniel Bowditch's “The
American Practical Navigator” to learn the spherical trigonometry to reduce
the sights without tables?
This brings up another point: Carrying firearms is a sensitive
business because many , if not most foreign governments are
mildly nervous about this practice unless you
are a commercially documented
vessel, have a bonded stores area in the vessel where you can lock
up tobacco, spirits and firearms when in port. (The most likely time
the firearms are going to be needed is in harbor) and the customs agent
can come aboard and seal that locker. And in TEOTWAWKI there is
no guarantee that pratique procedures in a foreign country are going
to be followed. There is also always the possibility that at sea,
you well may be outgunned and at sailing vessel speeds (maybe 7 knots,
which is about 9 mph ) you can't run away. And there you cannot bug
out to a pre-cached position either.
When I was younger and had my Alden I lived alongshore in the Gulf
of Mexico. A group of us all live-aboards (in those days we were
rare and a close knit community) used to sand table what it would be
like if the balloon went up. The most likely scenario we envisioned
was a limited nuclear strike on the CONUS. Consider if one will being
alongshore in the Northern Gulf of Mexico and what it would take to
get “away” provided
one survived the first strike. And we lived the life (many of us
did with a minimum of 60 days dry stores aboard) and walked the walk,
always
prepped for sea (not an easy thing to do.) Figure say from Mobile,
Alabama to get out of the Gulf of Mexico basin where one would be deep
sea, the closest being the Southern littoral of the North Atlantic
Ocean
would take a minimum of 7-to-8 days on
a vessel with a 40 foot waterline length. (Considering that will
provide on a very
good
24 hour noon-to-noon run, 150-170 miles driven hard with cooperating
weather. We then figured if we could get past Cuba and the tip
of Florida. From
Mobile, depending on the time of year and the weather that can be a
daunting task. We might have a chance. There was another cadre
of people in the marina, who rarely left their slips. They took
a minimum of 24 hours to get gear below decks stowed in lockers to
be able to get underway. Those in our group could be stowed for sea
and underway in 30 minutes. We practiced it routinely.
Also consider the very long distance most of it along shores of various
countries (you are much safer when deep ocean both from wars, storms,
and people.) Then one begins to appreciate if one will, the risky scenario
for
a person or family. But eventually one must put
in to a harbor. Somewhere. Today ( when I was young we didn't have
them) with water makers
a vessel with deep bunkers (my last vessel, 48 feet LOA carried 600
gallons of diesel and 1,000 gallons of water in deep tankage)--the
diesel fuel needed to make the electricity to charge the batteries
to run
the water maker to fill the tanks and fishing equipment and solar and
wind adjuncts and rain catchment and so on and so forth. Eventually
one must put in. That of course is when you are the most vulnerable.
Even in a large vessel where you can carry the depth of stores--line
and sails and wire and welding equipment and blocks and parts--material
needed to repair the ravages of days and days and days at sea, finally
the larder runs out. Depending on how far down things fall then you
may well have no idea of the conditions where you are putting in.
And if you are putting in under duress for example, dismasted and under
jury rig while trying to double Cape Horn--and it has happened to many
vessels in the high latitudes of the great Southern Ocean--then the
options considerably narrow. Have you ever thought about in a small
boat what even considering a passage through he Canal might be like
during
TEOTWAWKI? The only other alternatives are either
Cape Horn or Cape of Good Hope. Look at a chart.
I grew up sailing and surfing and diving. I would not consider
the ocean as a refuge if the balloon
goes up. In my humble opinion one is too vulnerable. Vulnerable
to whom? To a Caribbean Island fisherman
whose family is starving because the inter-island freighter has stopped
running and he needs antibiotics/pure water/salt/diesel fuel/gasoline/toilet
paper. Or vulnerable to a rogue element of a Third World military
--or for that matter a First World military--who have the materiel
to be
the
top
guy on the
heap
of post industrialization in your part of the ocean. Or,... Well
you get the idea. Post 9-11-01, I sold what will probably be my last
offshore vessel, a 48 foot aluminum pilothouse ketch with five watertight
compartments.
I finally woke up and realized that although I could (and did) single
hand her offshore without problems, being survivable and secure did
not seem to be a practical scenario. That plus my age led me to other
considerations. - CMC
JWR Adds: I agree with CMC's basic assertion.
I consider blue water sailing a viable retreat alternative only for
someone that is: A.)
An experienced yachtsmen that lives close to his boat harbor, and B.)
has the means to afford the right
boat and
can afford to fully
equip it, and C.) that has an established
overseas retreat destination that is well-stocked in its own right.
So in effect, a well-stocked sailboat is not in itself a
retreat, but rather could be your G.O.O.D. vehicle
to get you to an established offshore retreat. In all, the
preceding list eliminates most of the people reading this!
It may sound brutal and terse,
but for anyone else "sea-mobile" retreating is just another
fantasy--unaffordable and unrealistic. I briefly discuss some issues
regarding seA-mobile retreating in my non-fiction book Rawles
on Retreats and Relocation. The following is a quote from the
book:
Unless you are an experienced blue water yachtsman with many years
of experience, then I cannot recommend “sea mobile” retreating.
I only know a few yachtsmen with this level of experience--most notably
Mark Laughlin and Matthew Bracken. (BTW, Some of the characters and
descriptions in Matt Bracken’s recent novel “Enemies
Foreign and Domestic” shed some light on sea-mobile retreating.) IMHO,
for a long term Crunch with anticipated fuel shortages, only a sailboat
with an auxiliary engine makes sense. If you do choose this approach,
then by all means select the largest sailboat you can afford (and that
can be manned by a small crew) with the following features:
A minimal radar cross-section.
A retractable keel so that you can navigate shallows.
A very quiet auxiliary engine.
The largest fuel and fresh water tanks possible.
A full suite of communications gear (marine band, 2
Meter, CB, and
HF.)
At least two Global Positioning System (GPS) receivers, plus a sextant
and a couple of accurate hairspring or quartz watches. (In case your
GPS receivers fail, or if the GPS satellites ever fail. (Such as if
the GPS constellation is ever destroyed or significantly degraded by
anti-satellite weapons.)
A hull and rigging design that will “blend in” with the
crowd of seasonal yachtsmen.
Plenty of spare parts.
Be forewarned that your inevitable desire to add a large photovoltaic
array will be in direct opposition to blending in. If you buy photovoltaic
(PV) panels, buy canvas covers to make them less obvious when sailing
near shore.
A sailboat moored at night is vulnerable to sea-going looters. Even
today, piracy is a problem, particularly in the Caribbean and the waters
around Southeast Asia. This threat will surely expand by an order of
magnitude WTSHTF. So plan your landfalls carefully!
« Two Letters Re: How to Reply to "When the SHTF, I'm Going Over to Your House", by Rolf in the Northwest |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Land Navigation – More Than Just a Walk in the Woods, by GlobalScout
While sheltering in place has many advantages during an End-of-Civilization-Schumer-Dispersal
scenario, there may be good reasons to travel on foot cross country. (In "Patriots" for
example, squads and patrols traveled afoot for security, reconnaissance, communication,
ambush and assault missions.) The following tips are offered
for your consideration should you have to resort to “Shank’s Mare” for
transportation.
Land Navigation can be divided into “tactical” or “peacetime” methods.
While even in peacetime there are times that it is better to travel undetected,
in a tactical scenario, being caught might be fatal. You’ll have to judge
the situation yourself, but when in doubt, use the most cautious approach practical.
I’ll begin with normal situations where tactical concerns are secondary.
Have a compass and whistle with you any time you are in unfamiliar territory
or away from civilization. It is easy to become disoriented (especially at night,
in dense vegetation or during periods of bad weather) and a quick look at a compass
can often set you straight. If you do become lost or disoriented, stay put, if
possible, and blow your whistle or use other comms (radio, cell phone, mirror,
personal
locator beacon, etc…) until you are found/regrouped.
Learn how to use a map and compass. It is fairly simple to learn, and can be
fun too. I’ve made a game out of small-scale compass courses to teach the
concepts used in navigating with a map and compass. There are various techniques,
just find those you can remember easily and that are practical to use. Army
Field
Manual FM 3-25.26 Map Reading and Land Navigation is a good place to start,
or
there are many good civilian books on the subject. The Green Beret’s
Compass
Course, by Don Paul, Path Finder Publications 2004, is an interesting approach
to the subject and a fairly quick read. The Internet also has some great resources
on Map and Compass use. Here are a few sites to get you started:
Navigation
With Map and Compass , Using
the compass in interaction with a map , and Finding Your Way with Map
and Compass (USGS)
Don’t forget to count your paces and/or use timing to estimate the
distance traveled. This can keep you from overshooting your objective, and
wasting time
and energy to find your way back. In many cases, you can plan a “hold off” technique
to purposely aim slightly right or left of your objective if there is an identifiable
feature (ridge, river, road, etc…) that could lead you back to your end
point. Once you hit that feature, you can turn in the direction of your objective
and follow the feature until you reach your objective (e.g. when you get to the
stream, turn left, and follow the stream uphill to camp). A GPS receiver is great
help too, and potentially very accurate, but map and compass skills should
always
be there to supplement those battery-operated gizmos.
In a tactical, hostile environment, you would use similar navigation techniques
as mentioned about travel in a non-hostile environment, but there are a few other
considerations:
Evasion. If there’s a chance of running into goblins in the woods, navigation
becomes more complicated. Moving undetected can be a challenge but can be done.
Motion attracts an enemy’s eye more than camouflage can conceal you from
him. For example, most deer and squirrels you probably see in the woods are noticed
because of a twitch of the ear or a flick of the tail that alerts you to their
presence. They are naturally hard to see, but the slightest movement can give
them away. Move slowly, stop and look. Patience is a virtue that can save your
skin.
Noise can also compromise your location. Be aware of noise and disturbing foliage
and animals (birds or deer/elk). Masking your sounds by traveling in damp or
windy weather may help.
When crossing “lines of communication” such as rivers or roads, cross
at areas with limited visibility such as bends or shaded areas. Don’t follow
trails or “lines of communication” or leave tracks on or near them.
Avoid open areas where you can be seen from far away. This will reduce your chance
of being seen, but will slow you down considerably! Instead of trail hiking at
1.5 to 3 mph, you might be lucky to go a quarter mile an hour in some terrain
if you have to do it quietly and without being seen. Off road travel will also
require much more effort and most likely be noisier. Plan for this.
Also consider what time of day you will be starting and stopping your movement.
To avoid being seen by Night Vision Devices (NVDs),
dawn and dusk can provide a light condition that is too dark to be easily seen
with the naked eye, yet
too light for NVDs to work well. Air
Force Pamphlet 64-5 Aircrew Survival is
a great resource that gives an overview of evading capture while traveling in
a hostile environment.
Conceal your direction of travel in case you are captured (no sense in showing
the bad guys where you were going). This includes not writing down headings or
making markings on a map, and if you are using a military-type lensatic compass
that locks the compass dial when it is closed, turn the compass off course before
locking the dial so that your last heading is not revealed. To mark a map temporarily,
use sticks, pine needles or string to show lines of position or course direction.
This overview is just a brief and limited summary of things to consider if you
need to travel to survive. I hope it has provided food for thought and grounds
for further research (FFTAGFFR). I also hope that I've included some tips that
can
keep
you
safe.
Be
Prepared,
- GlobalScout
