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Letter Re: Retreat Locales in the Eastern United States
Mr. Rawles:
I see that [in your Recommended
Retreat Areas page] you only list information
for retreat selection in 19 western states. Do you not think other states are
worthy
of
retreat locations?
We live on 300 acres in southwestern Missouri (Polks County). Not totally ideal
I am sure, but it is home, children and grandchildren are here and more over
we
feel placed here by our Lord over 35 years ago.
I would be very interested in hearing your thoughts pro/con on the state
of Missouri so that we might be better prepared. -- Paulette
JWR Replies: I consider Missouri marginal as a retreat locale,
primarily because of it population density. The state of Missouri is on the
safer (lower population density) side of the
Mississippi River but it is still
far from ideal, since the state is bisected by the
Missouri River and the dramatic
drop in US population density is west of
the Missouri. (As I will discuss later in this reply.)
My choice of reviewing retreat
locales
in just 19 western
states has been discussed
a
few times before
in
SurvivalBlog, but for the benefit of the
many
newcomers, I will reiterate:
After much consideration, all of the eastern
states were intentionally excluded for my recommendations because
they are all either downwind of nuclear targets and/or are in areas with
excessive population density. This wasn't just the result of subjective
bias. I try
to use the dispassionate mindset of an actuarial accountant.
Take a look at The
Lights of the U.S. photo
maps.
These montages of satellite photos make it clear that most of America's population
is east of the Missouri River and is highly urbanized.The population density
of the U.S. is dramatically lower in the west. In troubled
times fewer people means fewer problems. In the event of a social upheaval,
being west of the Missouri River will mean a statistically much lower chance
of coming face to face with lawless rioters
or looters When The Schumer Hits The Fan (WTSHTF).
The other startling thing you will notice when looking at the Lights photo montage
is that even in the western states, Americans live in a highly urbanized society.
Roughly 90% of the population is crammed into 5% of the land area, mostly
within
50 miles of the coast. But there are large patches of the west where there are
virtually no lights at all--particularly in the Great Basin region that extends
from the back side of the Sierra Nevada mountains to Utah and Eastern Oregon.
The average population density in this region is less than two people per square
mile.
As an example of the low population density in the west, I often like to cite
Idaho County, Idaho: This one county measures 8,485 square miles--bigger than
Connecticut and Rhode Island combined. But it has a population of just 15,400.
And of those residents, roughly 3,300 people live in Grangeville, the county
seat. Who lives in the rest of the County? Nary a soul. There are far more deer
and elk than there are people. The population density of the county is 1.8 people
per square mile. The county has more than three million acres of U.S. Forest
Service
land, BLM land, and designated Federal
wilderness areas. Now that is elbow room!
The northeastern states depend on nuclear power plants for 47% of their electricity.
South Carolina is similarly dependent. This is an unacceptable level of high
technology systems dependence, particularly in light of the emerging terrorist
threat. You must also consider that virtually all of the eastern states are
downwind of major nuclear targets. In a full
scale exchange, the eastern US would be a bad place to be. See the target
lists, fallout projections, and other data at Richard Fleetwood's excellent SurvivalRing
web site. Not only are there lots of nuclear targets in the east, but easterners
will also get considerable additional fallout carried on the winds from
strikes farther west--including SAC bomber
bases, the strategic missile fields (in Montana, the Dakotas, and northern
Colorado), Cheyenne Mountain (Colorado), Offutt AFB (Nebraska),
and others. The majority of the military targets are expected to be hit with ground
bursts, which are the type that produce fallout. Because of the Coriolis
Effect, the prevailing winds in most of the United States are from west
to east, so the farther east you live, the greater the accumulated fallout
that you are likely to receive. Sorry!
My general advice for easterners: If for one reason or another you are stuck
in the northeast, then consider New Hampshire or Vermont. They are both gun
friendly and
have more
self-sufficient
lifestyle. But unless you have some compelling reason to stay in the East,
I most strongly encourage you to Go West!
With all that said, there are some areas in the eastern US that will
be safer than others (like parts of Tennessee and Maine), and there are
ways
to mitigate the risks that I mentioned.:
Risk Mitigation
The
risk posed by the higher population density of the eastern states can
be mitigated by both carefully choosing your retreat property (look for bypassed
areas that are far from "channelized
areas" and lines of drift") and by having heavily-manned
24/7/360 armed
and vigilant security at your retreat. (See my novel "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse" for a detailed description
of what might be needed to mount such a guard.) This will of course mean
extra mouths to feed--which in turn dictates the
expense
of
extra
storage
food, extra gardening space, extra housing, and extra stored fuel. But
this could be
viable,
especially if you are wealthy.
The other obvious risk mitigation is to construct a blast/fallout shelter
with a forced-air HEPA filter.
If your house already has a basement, and you are willing to do some of the
work yourself, a retrofit can be done for
under $5,000. Constructing a new, dedicated shelter can be a $15,000 to $70,000
proposition, depending how large and elaborate you want to make it. The folks
at Safecastle
have extensive experience in building such shelters, tailored for all budgets.
They specialize in combination storm/nuke/gun vault shelters. I highly recommend
them.
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Two Letters Re: Using Natural Caves on Private Property
Greetings Jim, Memsahib, and Readers,
I wanted to mention a couple things regarding caves for shelter or storage.
Many years ago, in my youth, I became interested in Spelunking (Caving) and
was lucky enough to explore caves in Tennessee with seasoned Spelunkers with
fifteen years experience. Depending on your climate you will not only get
a 'wet
season' where you have to deal with a lot of dampness but you may actually
face the cave being almost totally under water. We found this out the hard
way when on one trip the cave we were going to explore a lower chamber we
found was totally submerged from the previous week's rains. We did manage
to explore a upper chamber that was well above the water line. Even though
the cave we explored was well hidden, as the one Linda H mentioned, others
had used the entrance chamber because of discarded beer cans and trash left
behind. And, yes, we packed out other's trash. Once we left the entrance
chamber signs of others having frequented the other chambers faded away.
But if you are curious about a cave, you can bet someone else has been curious
also. After our trek of nearly six hours into the mountain we thought we
found the end of the chamber's run. As all humans like to put their mark
wherever they go I found a name, that was not very legible, and a date of
1784 carved (heavily scratched) into the rock. After looking around we located
another chamber through a very small opening that had remnants of an old
hemp rope leading through what would have been the ceiling of the extended
chamber below us. Yep, we were reluctant to go farther or look to closely
into the chamber just in case we found the remains of the person who explored
before us.
To safely utilize a cave you have to have a very good knowledge
of yearly rainfall patterns, and it is best to have a compilation of several
years to give you a baseline of rainfall, and have a good knowledge of the
variations of the water table in the area. Using a cave for shelter or storage
in its natural state is one way to utilize a cave. However if the size of
the chamber is large enough you may want to expend a bit more energy and
expense if you intend to pass on the property to family later on. The perfect
example of the best utilization of a cave for long term shelter and or storage
is the old NORAD Cheyenne
Mountain [Command and Control] Complex. Within the natural cavern is built
a shelter system with all the comforts of home, and a few I wish
I had. Of course our tax dollars built it and to go to those lengths would
be problematic at best. But the basic concept of a shelter within a cave
is not a far stretch and would provide a lot of comfort and protection for
the occupants provided the cave is deemed habitable for the long term after
compiling the climatic data. You would have to weigh such construction against
not only costs but also to factors such as:
1. Would enlarging the entrance to accommodate construction materials, tooling,
and manpower (even immediate family only) compromise the location?
2. Would the cave/constructed shelter be susceptible to flooding during prolonged
rainy seasons?
3. Would the cave provide a source of water, or is there a close source of
water that could provide the needed water or water storage for the shelter?
4. What type of power could be provided? The cave we explored could potentially
provide hydropower if properly set up.
5. What are the range of temperatures through the seasons, and would prevailing
winds impact the cave's temperature ranges; especially during winter months?
You would have to consider ways of mitigating winter winds whipping through
the cave.
6. Will the cave need a ventilation system to make sure that you don't have
a buildup of carbon dioxide or carbon monoxide when occupied full time?
7. Does the cave, consistently or periodically, capture and retain any gases
such as methane or other harmful gases that can be emitted from deeper in the
earth from the geologic formation? And it would be a good idea to know the
basic geology of the area so you know the stability of the cave. A cave in
even with a constructed shelter within the cave could still pose a serious
danger. And you may want to reinforce the cave ceiling just in case the geology
slightly active (small tremors).
8. Is there an alternate or secondary entrance that could be utilized as an
emergency exit or could it prove to be an access point for others to enter
during a crisis.
9. If there is no other entrance or exit point, is it possible to construct
one as an emergency exit? I would be reluctant to have a single entrance and
exit point. If you have to dig an emergency exit you will need some very specialized
equipment and skills to prevent a cave in, or suddenly finding yourself flooding
the cave by hitting an underground spring or other high volume water source.
It would be too easy for an adversary to simply block a single entrance and
either starve you out or to fire on your position and use the rock walls to
ricochet around until they hit someone, or to build a fire at the entrance
to smoke you out. And a worse scenario would be for an adversary to cave in
the entrance and seal you in until you died of suffocation.
10. Could the shelter or the cave provide any method of hydroponic gardening?
If your shelter is the cave proper you will have to have access to an area
where you can garden if you intend to occupy the shelter over a protracted
period of time as the result of a nuke exchange or protracted pandemic.
These are just a few questions that come to mind and there are others that
must be answered depending on how you want to utilize the cave. If you want
to really kick your 'creative engine' into overdrive and see how mankind has
utilized natural and man made underground structures then watch the History
Channel program "Cities of the Underworld". It is absolutely amazing
how people through the centuries utilized natural underground formations, and
expanded them or built and utilized underground spaces. Mankind has covered
over entire cities over the centuries as new construction has been built over
old. Some of these underground areas have been done as far back as the Celtics
of Ireland and Scotland as well as through the Middle Ages and Renaissance
as well as the modern eras. There is one common thread, of different iterations
but a singular concept, which runs through all of the construction techniques
from the beginning; whether utilizing natural features or new construction
over old cities. And this thread is utilized today. But I'll leave that to
you to discover for yourself. - The Rabid One
Hi Jim,
The best way I know of to camouflage stuff (entrances, equipment, traps, etc.)
with respect to its environment is to paint it with spray-on adhesive, the
same kind that automotive upholsterers use, then simply take dry dirt and sprinkle
it all over the painted areas (some moving parts, etc. you would of course
want to mask-off, just like regular painting).
This provides an excellent base coat, even for things attached to trees, buildings,
etc.
I still think the best book on the subject is the US Army "Camouflage" field
manual (FM
5-20) from 1969: Regards, - Jerry E.
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Letter Re: Propane Heat and PV Power Solutions for RVs and Trailers
James,
I found this
site in my search for a way to heat that travel trailer (that I don’t
yet own). The guy with built his heating system for his RV out
of a car's heater core and attached it to PV panels for power of the pump motor
and fan, the
heating of the tank is [accomplished with] a propane [burner]. This might be
something of interest to your readers as it’s something I’m going
to need since the travel trailer I’m looking in to getting is older and
needs a new heater. I figure why buy new or reinvent the wheel, I’ll
find an efficient way to power and heat this travel trailer with minimum funds,
someone
has already
done this
somewhere and it’s out there on the Internet Thanks, - Fitzy
in
Pennsylvania
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Letter Re: The "Invention Nation" Documentary Television Series
Jim,
I don't know if this has been posted here or not. I have finished watching
a series on the Science Channel called "Invention Nation".
The show primarily feature inventors who are inventing ways to "go green".
Many of these inventions and ideas fit in perfectly with being self-sufficient.
Some of the topics are; used cooking oil for diesel engines, solar power technology,
passive solar for heating homes and water, bicycle generators, etc... The series
will rerun starting in March and may be worth a look for the preparedness minded. See
the Invention Nation web site. Thanks to you and your family for all you
do. - Randy G.
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The "Come as You Are" Collapse--Have the Right Tools and Skills
In the Second World War, the United States had nearly two full years to ramp
up military training and production before decisively confronting the Axis
powers. In the late 1970s, looking at the recent experience of the 1973 Arab-Israeli
War, the Pentagon's strategic planners came to the realization that the next
major war that the US military would wage would not be
like the Second World War. There would not be the luxury of time to train and
equip. They realized that we would have to fight with only what we had available
on Day One. They dubbed this the "Come as you are war" concept.
In my opinion, the same "come as you are" mindset should
be applied to family preparedness. We must recognize that in these
days of rapid news dissemination, it may take as little as 10 hours before
supermarket shelves are cleaned out. It make take just a few hours for queues
that are literally blocks-long to form at gas stations--or at bank branches
in the event of bank runs. Worse yet, it may take just a few hours before
the highways and freeways leading out of urban and suburban areas are clogged
with traffic--the dreaded "Golden
Horde" that I often write about. Do not make the false assumption
that you will have the chance to make "one last trip" to the big
box store, or even the chance to fill your Bug Out Vehicle's fuel tank. This
will be the "come as you are" collapse.
The concept also applies to your personal training. If you haven't learned
how to do things before the balloon goes, up, then don't expect to get anything
but marginal to mediocre on-the-job training after the fact. In essence, you
have the opportunity to take top quality training from the best trainers now,
but you won't once the Schumer hits
the fan. Take the time to get top-notch training! Train with the best--with
organizations like Medical
Corps, WEMSI, Front
Sight, the RWVA/Appleseed
Project, the WRSA,
and the ARRL.
Someday, you'll be very glad that you did.
The come as you are concept definitely applies to specialized manufactured
equipment.You are dreaming if you think that
you will have the chance to to purchase any items such as these, in a post-collapse
world:
razor
wire, body
armor, night
vision equipment,
advanced
first aid gear, tritium
scopes, dosimeters
and radiac meters, biological decontamination
equipment, Dakota
Alert or military surplus PEWS intrusion
detection sets, photovoltaics,
NBC
masks, and semi-auto
battle rifles.
Think about it: There
are very few if these items (per capita) presently in circulation. But the
demand for them during a societal collapse would be tremendous. How could
you compete in such a scant market? Anyone that conceivably has "spares" will
probably want to keep them for a member of their own family or group. So
even in the unlikely event that someone was even willing to sell
such scarce items, they would surely ask a king's ransom in barter
for them. I'm talking about quarter sections of land,
entire strings of
well-broken horses, or pounds of
gold. Offers of anything less would surely be scoffed at.
Don't overlook the "you" part of the "as
you are" premise.
Are you physically fit? Are you up to date on your dental work? Do you have
two pairs of sturdy eyeglasses with your current prescription? Do
you have at least a six month supply of vitamins and medications? Is your body
weight
reasonable?
If you answer to any of these is no, then get busy!
Even if you have a modest budget, you will have an advantage over the average
suburbanite. Your knowledge and training alone--what is between your ears--will
ensure that. And even with just a small budget for food storage, you will be
miles ahead of your neighbors. Odds are that they will have less than two week's
worth of food on hand. As I often say, you will need extra supplies on hand to
help out relatives, friends, and neighbors that were ill-prepared. I consider
charity my Christian duty!
I have repeatedly and strongly emphasized the importance of living
at your intended retreat year-round. But I realize that because
of personal finances, family obligations, and the constraints of making a
living at an hourly or
salaried job, that this is not realistic--except for a few of us, mainly retirees.
If you are stuck in the Big City and plan to Get Out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.)
at the eleventh hour, then by all means pre-position the vast majority of your
gear and supplies at your retreat. You will most likely only have one, I repeat, one G.O.O.D.
trip. If there is a major crisis there will probably be no chance to "go
back for a second load." So WTSHTF will
truly be a "come as you are" affair.
With all of this in mind, re-think your preparedness priorities. Stock
your retreat well. If there isn't someone living there year-round,
then hide what is there from burglars. (See the numerous SurvivalBlog posts
on caching and constructing hidden compartments and rooms.) Maintain balance
in your preparations. In a situation where you are truly hunkered-down at
your retreat in the midst of a societal collapse, there might not be any
opportunity to barter for any items that you overlooked. (At least not for
several months. ) What you have is what you got. You will have to make-do.
So be sure to develop your "lists
of lists" meticulously. If you have the funds available, construct
a combination storm shelter/fallout shelter/walk-in vault. It
would be virtually impossible to build something that elaborate in the aftermath
of a
societal collapse.
A closing thought that relates to your retreat logistics: The
original colonial Army Rangers, organized by Major Robert Rogers during
the French and Indian Wars of the 1750s had a
succinct list of operating rules. The version of the "Rules of Ranging" recounted
in the novel "Northwest Passage" by Kenneth Roberts started
with a strong proviso: "Don't forget nothing." That
is sage advice.
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Letter Re: Burning Soft Maple Wood as a Primary Home Heat Source
Hi Jim,
I have set out on an experiment in heating my home that has been interesting
and is important to relay to other readers as their are many questions about
using Soft Maple as a heat source. My experiment follows nearly a lifetime
of wood burning, tree felling, splitting, chimney cleaning lifestyle and
is of course not from a "professional", so ask a professional when
experimenting with home heating.
I have used wood only heating in my current home for five years with 100% safety
and 1,000% enjoyment. Before that, I had 11 years of consistent home heating
by wood. I ran into a project on my property that involved felling some gigantic
Soft Maple trees in order to adjust fencing and grading issues. These trees
also became a looming headache about falling on my building. This past early
summer was the project.
The trees were about 48"-to-60" in diameter. With all the overhead
limbs that were as big as most trees appearing to start to hollow out, I felt
it necessary to drop these trees with a large tracked excavator. In this scenario,
we ripped the roots out from around the tree on three sides with a gigantic
frost tooth/ cement tooth attachment. After ripping through the 16" diameter
roots, we used the machine to drop the trees by guiding them to the ground
with the hook. I could not justify being under any one of those limbs while
felling the tree as it would have been instant death upon impact.
Now that this job was complete, it was saw time. I had everything cut into
lineal length for the saw mill in two days and the brush cut and stacked for
burning. There was no way I could fathom attempting to split the wood with
the enormity of the trunks. I decided early on to sell the largest logs to
the mill and "deal with the limbs" at a later date. When talking
to an old boy at the mill, he recommended against all other advice. He said
to split the wood late season and burn it right away. Conventional wisdom would
tell you to never burn un-seasoned, (wet) wood in a stove/fireplace or dangerous
deposits of creosote would form in the chimney causing a chimney fire. I decided
that with my project I had over three years supply of soft maple right in front
of me, so I might as well try it given my understanding of how important it
is to monitor the burning, I felt completely comfortable with this experiment.
I started heating intermittently in October, exclusively with soft maple. Here
are my observations:
-It starts amazingly well given an air space under it. In fact, I have been
able to rekindle the fire without any matches for most of the winter by using
the bark from the soft maple placed directly on the very small coals and propping
up what I would call “Extremely large tinder”, (i.e.- 2” – 4” odd
split off fall), give it lots of air and it is going.
-Given its properties, it does not overheat my chimney near as often as hardwood,
but did not lend itself to any signs of buildup in my chimney. For the first
month and a half I would add “anti-creosote” granules when the
chimney was warmed up to keep things clear.
-With fewer BTUs than hardwood, I have gone through about 10% more
wood than the previous winter of hardwood burning and have used my electric
blower about 20% of the burn time compared to not needing it with hardwood.
This was for comfort, not necessity.
-I have cleaned out the ash box and chimney 3 times as much this year compared
to hardwood burning. These ashes seem to quickly choke the coals if not monitored
when you first get up in the morning.
-I have decided to not use the granules any longer and keep monitoring the
chimney. For the past month I have not noticed any change in buildup in the
chimney. It is amazing how clean my chimney is for burning a softwood. It has
yet to truly need the brush this year, but I have as habit.
-If a long burn is needed, it is imperative that you stack the wood in the
fire box in a manner that would not aid in air flow to the fire. In other words,
try to stack wood exactly upon itself in the exact same direction creating
very small places for the flame to lick out upon the upper wood which allows
the wood to smolder in the ash below and keep a more consistent burn albeit
at a lower temperature. At least when you get home you have coals and a comfortable
abode.This experiment has been fun as I am glad to not waste that much cordwood.
I have not cut up the additional logs that were limbs from those trees yet
as I did not want it to dry up and not create any heat next year. I will monitor
the results and fill you in when that season is upon us. I hope that in 20’ lengths
of logs, that it will still retain its moisture without rotting. Soft Maple
really does not do well for any outdoor exposure in lumber form.
I wanted to share this experiment as it is against what I have known and could
prove useful to someone else when dealing with a soft “nuisance” tree
like Soft Maple. Please understand that other soft woods don’t share
this property to my knowledge. Cottonwood plugged my chimney faster than I
have ever seen before. But Cottonwood and hardwood mix allowed me to get some
benefit out of that tree that could not be used at the mill. (I don’t
recommend using Cottonwood, after that experiment).
A tidbit of value before cutting up your tree post-SHTF.
After felling a tree, look at the rings. If you notice a sizeable, (thumb size
or larger) deposit
of graphite toned discoloration, then you have a tree with metal inside. Maybe
it’s just a nail, but maybe it is a fence post! This is extremely important
if you own the sawmill or you don’t have spare chains or teeth for your
saws and you can’t get them without UPS [parcel
delivery service continuing] as we know it. I would venture this to be very
common among
fence
row trees on
the property lines or near
pastures of yesteryear. Avoiding that part of the tree could mean the difference
between keeping your home heated for the year, or looking for a new saw at
the barter faire!
Last bit of advice, the sawmill was happy to see that I over sized the logs
by 5” to allow them to trim the ends. They were also glad to see the
large logs compared to most customers who split the trunks and sell the limbs.
What a mistake as the profit lost could put food on the table! The limbs burn
30% longer than an equivalent size and weight log that is split. I love burning
round stock that is properly cured!
In my project, I did have logs that were too big for the mill’s equipment.
In those cases I had to saw the logs in half. I guess that is better than trying
to axe a 48” diameter log, or roll that widow maker up onto the log splitter!
A little asking around might serve us all better before the need arises. This
well seasoned man just heated my family this Winter,…. Maybe he’ll
heat yours too! All the Best! - The Wanderer
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Letter Re: Light, Noise, and Smoke Discipline for Retreat Security
Sir:
Ianto Evans has a book called "Rocket
Mass Heaters". He
is a Welsh inventor, who was hired by the government of Guatemala to develop
a less polluting
wood
stove for cooking. It also had to be more efficient. Basic physics tells you
that exhaust heat is wasted energy. The smoke out of his stoves are cool enough
to put your hand in front of, and they don't emit visible smoke.
They use much less wood as well and can be made for under $100.
EndTimesReport.com has
interesting articles on the importance of kerosene heaters, as a way to avoid
unwanted attention, for short term unrest, before wood burners
are used.
Keep up the good work. - Dan C.
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Letter Re: Light, Noise, and Smoke Discipline for Retreat Security
Sir:
I was reading your postings on light security and blackout curtains for a home
that would be secure in the nighttime. I thought about it on my way home after
work, and realize that you're right. I've
driven around my area during power outages and know who is home, due to their
having generators running and lights shining, or even just those using candles
or
lanterns of various types. As I was pondering those things, I pulled into my
driveway
and looked at my home and a question popped up immediately. Here in the Northeast,
(Maine) we're in the heating season.
If anything were to happen, it would be a dead giveaway to know who is home or
who isn't by looking at the chimneys and observing smoke coming out. Especially
when you're just starting the woodstove.
It has a tendency to create a lot of smoke until the stack temperature begins
to heat up and cause an updraft. Do you know of any way to decrease smoke from
a chimney, or any way to camouflage the
emissions?
Thanks for your blog and all that you do. Rob in Maine (Proud owner of an autographed "Patriots"
book!)
JWR Replies: Aside from burning only well-dried wood and
using your stove's damper judiciously, I don't know of any means of minimizing
smoke from a chimney. (It is rapid changes in damper position that
seem to generate the most smoke.) If you are in the habit of cranking up your
stove with an open damper for roaring hot once a week to burn out any accumulated
creosote from
the upper
reaches
of your stove, then do so only after dark. Ditto for cleaning out ashes and
re-kindling the stove.
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Letter Re: Question on Two Cycle Oil Mixing Ratios
Dear Mr. Rawles,
Perhaps you could help me understand the mixing ratios for two stroke oil.
I remember buying the old Homelite oil, you could either buy it in a can
to mix with one gallon of gas or a can to mix with two gallons of gas.
Most of the new two stroke oils I have seen recently state that they are
50:1.
Is this mixture acceptable for my old Homelite Super XL chainsaw and other
two stroke equipment?
The rep at the Stihl store by us said that the new oils are so much better
formulated than the old oils, that 50:1 is good for all two stroke equipment--old
and new. Does he know what he is talking about? - Mark G.
JWR Replies: While it is true that some of the pre-1990 manufacturers'
manuals called out a 32:1 or even 24:1 mixing ratio, with modern name-brand mixing
oil, there is no problem using a 50:1 ratio in just about all two cycle chainsaws
and
other two cycle power tools that are marked 24:1 or 32:1 (such as leaf blowers,
weed trimmers, ice augers, et cetera). The modern mixing oils provide plenty
of lubrication at
a 50:1 ratio. You can use more oil if you'd like, but it would be
a waste of oil, and will also produce more
smoke.
OBTW,
I discovered that there
is an
interesting thread of conversation on this topic over at The Arborist Site
Forums.
« Letter Re: Honey Prices Escalating, Just as Predicted |Main| Letter Re: Alcohol Stoves »
Letter Re: Useful LifeHacker Articles
Mr. Rawles:
There are so many great and not-so-great ideas on the LifeHacker site including
this one I found showing you how
to use C cell batteries in place of a D cell compartment
in an emergency situation:
There are some other interesting things on this site like creating make-shift
air conditioning systems using cold well water (others have made emergency
air conditioners using beverage coolers, fans and copper coils): DIY
Heat Exchanger and Make
Your Own Air Conditioner.
There is this one showing you how
someone made hand washing more efficient while filling the tank of his toilet.
[JWR
Adds: I would recommend skipping this one. The implementation shown
uses plywood which cannot be kept sanitary. It also might result in a smelly
toilet tank if you use an non-chlorinated water source such as well water or
spring water.]
And here's one with a video demonstrating how
one can cheaply acquire 8 - 1.5v button cell batteries from 1 - A23 12v battery:
Well, there's enough on this LifeHacker site to keep you busy for some time.
Enjoy!, - Tanker
« Three Letters Re: Providing Crucial Fats and Oils in Your Diet |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Comments from a Like-Minded Virginia Prepper
Sir:
I found your blog about a month ago. I received a copy of your novel "Patriots" from
Fred's M14 Stocks and have probably read the thing about 20 times. It sits
by
the bed. I sometimes just pick it up, open and begin reading. Good stuff.
I am a former police officer (10 years) with sniper training, construction
company owner( I have built everything except a church) CPA with many years
public accounting and have military experience (like you in Military Intelligence.
I was what is now known as a 98C [- Signals Intelligence Analyst]). I shoot
a lot of IDPA both in local and state
matches,
am an IDPA safety officer and an NRA firearms instructor. My wife is a soon
to be a Civil Service Retirement System (CSRS) Federal retiree. She shoots
also.
We have 58 acres in a rather remote area in the south side of Virginia.
We plan
on incorporating cisterns, gray
water septic et cetera in the building of the house that we will start in about
three months. The heating will be closed loop geothermal, radiant in the floors.
We have
a lot of experience in growing vegetable gardens (25 years to date). The wife
knows how to can and otherwise preserve food. We generally keep enough on hand
to see us through several months of problems. I would probably be better off
relocating further to the northwest but moving is such a pain that this was
as far as we want to go. We are about 200+ miles from [Washington] D.C.
I find your blog very informative and educational. Some of the weapon selection
I agree with, some I don't. That's okay. I just wanted to say hi and thank
you
for your efforts. Keep up the good work. - rb
« Three Letters Re: Chainsaws and Long Term Gasoline Storage |Main| Note from JWR: »
Reducing Your Sound "Footprint" by Countrytek
I've been lurking about SurvivalBlog for about six months now, and have found
a lot of useful information hereabouts. There are lots of good tips about
securing your retreat and making it less visible. One thing I have noticed
though is that there appears to be a blind spot. Why go to all the trouble
to screen your retreat location from view and practice nighttime light discipline
if you are going to announce your presence far and wide audibly?
One thing I've noticed lately is there is a lot of discussion on stocking
up on two-cycle and bar oil for chainsaws. For those of you who live in the
hinterboonies
already: Think back a few months to woodcutting season. I'll bet if you stop
and think about it, you would be able to locate your neighbors for a couple
miles around
- at least - based on the sounds of their Stihl and Husqvarna--nobody uses
Homelite or McCulloch anymore--chainsaws. For those of you not familiar with
life in the hinterlands yet: The crisp airs of autumn and early winter carry
the sound of chainsaw exhaust for miles. Those things are shrieking banshees
that scream "Here I am!" Not only do they announce your location
to the world-at-large, they also mask the sound of anyone approaching the woodcutter's AO.
So, even if you post a security detail around your work party, they are
going to be relying solely
on visual contact to detect approaching hostiles.
To me, the better route would be to leave the chainsaw in the emergency stash,
and do your woodcutting with a crosscut saw. Yes, the misery whip "sings," but
its slight ring doesn't carry nearly as far as the chainsaw's blare and shriek.
(For those who don't know -- The crosscut saw got the nickname "misery
whip" because an improperly set and sharpened crosscut saw is exactly
that: a miserable implement to spend your days with. Caution: Caring
for and using this device requires some skills.)
Side Note: You did notice that I didn't say "Forget the
chainsaws!" didn't
you? I live in 'quake country and - due to misguided forestry practices over
the
past century - anyone who lives outside of town these days lives in wildfire
country. When I want to get through the roof of a collapsed structure quickly,
I'm going to reach for my trusty Stihl, not a crosscut. And, two men with
chainsaws can clear a firebreak a lot quicker than two men with a crosscut.
Just save the chainsaws for the times that saving time and lives is more important
than keeping a low sound profile. There are always trade-offs to be made in
survival situations.
You don't give up all that much in efficiency - if you learn to use and care
for your saw properly - by using a crosscut instead of a chainsaw. I'm told
that wasn't until the 1960s that a chainsaw was able to beat a two-man saw
in log bucking contests. Those of you who take in logger rodeos know that those
bucking saws are the chainsaw hot-rods -- they're anything but stock.
If you have the personnel available, you could send out multiple three-man
teams with one two-man saw per team. The "odd man out" would serve
as part of the security detail for the wood cutting operation. The cutting
team would put their LBE and
rifles aside - but close at hand - while the security person would retain his.
(Yes, women can hang-to with men on a cross-cut once
they learn the pace. I'm saying men for language simplicity.) Every 15 minutes
the saw crew could take a 5 minute break and one of them could rotate with
the security man. That way, each man spends a maximum of a half-hour on the
business end of the saw before getting a 20-minute break. Once everyone is
used to the drill, the interval between breaks could be stretched to a half-hour.
By sending out multiple teams, you get a larger security detail, and it would
be most effective to stagger the breaks so you always have one - or more -
security man on point. This reduces the risk of everyone having to rely on
sidearms until they can fight their way back to their rifles. (Which is the
purpose of a sidearm, in my book: It exists solely to fight your way
back to the rifle you shouldn't have let get out-of-reach in the first place.
Or, to acquire another rifle when yours breaks or runs dry. Bad troopie! No
cookie!)
Don't have the personnel? Then use a one-man crosscut saw and have your lovely
bride or elder son be your security detail. Whatever you do, don't get
in the habit of sending out work details without a security detail! That's
the
easiest way there is to take casualties and leave the door open to deadly infiltration.
([They see someone wearing familiar clothing and say] "It's Okay! That's
just Bob coming back from cutting wood!")
I am wholeheartedly against "going it alone" post-TEOTWAWKI.
If you're single and alone in the world, you need to
build a support group of like-minded
individuals that you can rely on. They're just like finding
the perfect bride: They are out there. The problem is finding
them. Trust me - I know from experience.
I come from a large clan (We're Celts -- the term clan has significant meaning
for us.), so I'll be relying on family. My Dad insured that my brothers
and I were all well-familiarized with the crosscut saw as a tool for doing
real work. Along with the scythe, the #2 shovel, and a host of other "old
school" tools.
Once you become familiar with man-powered tools, you will be surprised what
you can do in a day.
One way to reduce your exposure is to cut your wood to cord length (4 feet)
in the woods, cold deck it, then transport it back to the retreat via horse
and sledge once the snows come. (Personally, I'd leave it cold-decked for a
year,
and
then transport it once it's seasoned -- much easier on the people loading the
sledge and the horses pulling it. You should have at least two years' firewood
stored at the retreat before TSHTF anyway.)
You can buck it to stove length back at the retreat with a one-man saw. Better
yet would be
to have a water
powered buzz saw at the retreat. Quiet, but much less work! Any cord lengths
that are too heavy to throw up on your shoulder to tote to the cold deck can
be hand split with a maul and wedges. Most hardwoods are much easier to split
green than once they've seasoned. This brings up another point: Using steel
mauls and wedges is just like ringing a bell. So learn how to fabricate a wooden
maul and wooden splitting wedges. It's not all that hard, and the benefit of
having your maul and wedges go "thwock" instead of having that
high-pitched ping of steel hitting steel is worth it. (The secret is to fashion
your wedges from green hardwood rounds, then set them aside to season for at
least a year. You can 'smith up some top rings for your wooden wedges and put
them on hot on the seasoned wedges that you've soaked in the rain barrel for
a couple days. The hot rings will compress the grain on the wedges so they
don't split when hit with the maul. You do the same thing on each end of the
maul head, but - of course - the rings are much bigger.)
Here are some sources for crosscut saws and the necessary tools to maintain
them:
If you want a good quality new saw at a bargain price, Woodcraft.com
carries
a five-foot German two-man saw for $74.99:
Lehmans.com carries
the saw
accessories that will allow you to maintain
your saw.
The Federal Highway
Administration has a series of articles on using and caring
for crosscut saws.
Have you caught on to the fact that when you live in the hinterboonies you operate
on
a
different time scale than the insane pace that city folk try to maintain? You
have to learn
to think and plan in a completely different manner when you are attempting to
be self-reliant for the long term. It's not an easy adjustment. That's why I
agree with Mr. Rawles: You want to be [long hence] settled in and living
at
your
retreat when
this post-modern world comes down around our ears.
One last admonition on "Sound Security:" Buy a [hunting] bow. Learn
how
to use it. Learn how to stalk and take game with it. Learn to have confidence
in
it
and in your ability to provide for your family with it. Learn how to make a bow
from wood from your woodlot, and learn how to make and fletch arrows. Then, when
the Schumer goes through the turbines, leave your rifle slung while hunting and
take your meat with a well-placed arrow. Rifle reports carry even further than
a chainsaw's banshee shriek. Save your ammo for the hostiles. - Countrytek
JWR Adds: I addressed noise discipline in my novel "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse",
but you are right that it has been insufficiently addressed in SurvivalBlog.
Thanks for sharing your comments on this subject. regarding bow hunting:
Keep in mind that most state game regulations prohibit carrying a rifle
when bow hunting, so your last comment would only apply to an absolute TEOTWAWKI situation.
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Letter Re: Masonry Stoves / Brick Ovens
Jim
I have been reading the SurvivalBlog for some time now and thought I would share
some information about a retreat technology that I have not seen mentioned. I
am referring to a brick oven for baking bread, pizza and a large variety of other
foods. Brick ovens have been around for thousands of years, they were very common
in Roman times. They are having a revival in the artisan baking community and
can also be found in many authentic pizza restaurants. They do take a little
work to construct, however it is very simple to operate (decidedly low tech)
and just needs firewood. These ovens generate a good deal more heat that most
modern electric or gas ovens. Generally around 700 degrees Fahrenheit, they can
bake a large number of loaves in a relatively short time. They have a large thermal
mass and stay hot for quite some time. For instance, you can bake several loaves
one day and still have enough heat to bake bread the next morning for breakfast,
all from one firing. This would be a valuable asset in a TEOTWAWKI scenario.
Also having fresh bread would be valuable for barter or charity for your neighbors.
Besides being a useful skill for home use, it could also be a valuable asset
for after the SHTF as people may have stored wheat but those fancy dual fuel
ovens will not work without electric power.
JWR Replies: We mentioned masonry
stoves several times
in the first year of SurvivalBlog posts. These stoves usually have a bake oven
compartment, although some
are purpose-built, just for bread baking. I highly
recommend masonry stoves. The higher initial investment is more than
offset
by their
great efficiency and versatility. There are a
few masonry craftsmen scattered across the US and Canada that specialize in
building masonry stoves.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Hurricane Preparedness, by MFA »
Letter Re: Firefighting Equipment for Rural Homes and Retreats, and Comments of Geothermal Heating
Hi Jim,
I thought it prudent to add a bit to Mr. Savage's fire fighting equipment article.
It touches two topics worth mentioning.
In the article, Mr. Savage recommends a fire truck, bladder, tank, etc... for
firefighting. I have no problem with this unless it is winter. Trying to pump
this much water on as "as need" basis in the event of a fire is obviously
not going to work as well. Storing the water in a "non-potable" type
container clearly marked, one could add the appropriate amount of RV antifreeze
to the tank to keep from bursting your firefighting vessel, pipes, and valves.
Please don't confuse this with vehicle antifreeze.
For those considering using the RV for bugging out or a second retreat, then
it would be necessary to understand how to winterize and de-winterize your piping
if you desire to keep things relatively intact.
This would also be an important segue into learning to winterize your home in
case you decide to shut off heat to most rooms, but would like the ability to
have pipes that are not broken/ frozen at a later date when outside temps are
above freezing.
Since we are on the topic of water, another thing to mention in addition to the
corn/ pellet, wood boiler type heat, I would like to add geothermal to
what
in my
opinion is a worthless heat/cool source post-TEOTWAWKI. Most don't know this,
but in our climate, the electrical needs for the system can easily surpass 100
amps! Good luck powering that with your wind turbine. Sorry for the
ramble,
but wanted to bring up a few talking points. God Bless,
-
The Wanderer
JWR Replies: The power required to run a home geothermal
heating system varies widely, depending on the water temperature and well depth.
In some places like
Klamath
Falls, Oregon, where there is fairly hot water at shallow depth, a
"closed loop" system connected to hydronic
sub-floor pipes can use
just a small circulating pump that draws relatively little current. BTW, Klamath
Falls is
one of the preferred retreat locales mentioned in my book Rawles
on Retreats and Relocation. And, BTW, I once had the opportunity to
buy a ranch near Wells,
Nevada that had a large hot spring with gravity flow to
the
house.
This could have provided geothermal heat with no pumping
requirement. However, the
Memsahib and I decided to pass on buying that property because
we felt that it was too close to the I-80 corridor and hence not strategically
viable.
« Letter Re: Recent Improvement in the Jericho Television Series |Main| Living in Times of Partial Law and Order, by FerFAL »
Two Letters Re: Advice on Enhancing Cool Basement Food Storage
James:
For those looking to create stable and “passively” cool
storage in a basement, the book "How
and Why to Build a Wine Cellar" by Richard Gold is a well-thought, meticulously engineered
solution to many of the same issues faced by those seeking to store
food at
stable, cool temperatures. Regards, - Ben
JWR:
I have spent much of my adult life in the construction industry and
through experience and educational seminars, etc. I have acquired a
substantial amount of knowledge concerning moisture intrusion into
structures.
Water is the main source of problems in construction. Keeping it in,
keeping it out, and getting it out once it is in.
The components of a building that are constructed of concrete such
as basements, foundations and slabs on grade are very susceptible to
moisture intrusion. Concrete acts as a wick and when dry will actually
attract moisture and move it through out the structure under the right
conditions. For example a twenty-inch concrete column sealed on its
sides and standing in water will wick moisture hundreds of feet straight
up. A concrete basement floor set over a wet subsurface will continuously
wick that moisture up through the floor and allow it to evaporate into
the basement atmosphere, i.e., damp basement. For several hundred years
this condition has been referred to as "rising damp". The
modern term for it is capillary action.
To construct a dry basement in damp ground conditions requires some
planning and a little ingenuity. Choose as dry and well-drained location
as possible to build the structure. Once the excavation of the basement
is complete you should proceed with water management measures as dictated
by the conditions of your location. If you have a substantial amount
of groundwater or springs under the excavation you will need to install
a drain system around the outside of the foundation and under the floor
to move this water away from the basement. There is a lot of information
available on how to do this. If located in a hillside it is easy to
install a gravity flow system, dumping into a dry well down hill from
the basement. The only other alternative is to dump into a sump pump
installed in the floor of the basement and pump the water out away
from the house.
Now comes the important part. Once the drain system is completed and
the forms for the foundation and floor have been constructed you will
want to lay down heavy-duty plastic vapor barrier on the ground under
all areas where you will pour concrete. The barrier should cover the
entire floor, pass under the foundation and up the outside wall as
continuous as possible. Where you need to make seams, overlap the barrier
at least five feet. Applying a sealant between the layers at the seams
is advisable. The concrete will be poured over the vapor barrier only
after it has been completely sealed from the outside of one wall to
the outside of the opposite wall. Once the foundation and slab are
poured and the outside walls are constructed, the vapor barrier protruding
out from under the foundation is pulled up on the wall and adhered
using the standard basement wall sealant. The entire outside of the
wall is then coated with sealant. You should end up with basement that
is totally encapsulated in a plastic vapor barrier. Most builders
that attempt installation of vapor barriers ignore the foundation because
it takes a little finesse to do this right. This leaves a path for
capillary action to bring moisture into the basement.
Now that you have a dry basement don't forget to
properly ventilate it. It should be tied in with the rest of the house
ventilation system. If you construct a safe room in one corner it will
still be necessary to supply some ventilation to that room or it will
become very musty.
I am presently planning the construction of a small house for my wife
and I and will construct a safe/storage room as an extension of the
basement, which will extend out from under the house. It will basically
be an underground concrete room next to the house joining the basement
wall and will be totally sealed from moisture as I have described.
I will be able to easily hide the entrance through the basement wall
in the back of a utility room. Being outside of the house footprint
will also protect it from fire in case the house would burn down or
otherwise be destroyed.
Hope you find this useful, - JR
« Letter Re: Barbed Wire and/or Concertina Wire to Supplement Retreat Defense |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: Advice on Enhancing Cool Basement Food Storage
Mr. Rawles:
We are building a new house with a basement. I am planning
a food storage room in the corner of the basement that is the furthest
underground.
Can you guide me with details about how to plan that room, mainly
about temperature. I know that cooler is better. The basement has
poured cement walls. Should I insulate the [other] two walls [that are partitions]
inside the basement? The rest of the basement will be heated, should
I leave the vents out of that room all together? What about the
vent
that pulls air in for circulation? We are in Kentucky and have
cold winters and hot summers. I am excited to finally have enough room
to
prepare my family for anything. Any help you can give me will be
appreciated.
Thanks, - Linda
JWR Replies: To take best advantage of the ambient
ground temperature and isolate the food storage area from the heated
portion of your basement, you should definitely construct well-insulated
partition walls--preferably using 2x6s and two bats (two thicknesses)
of insulation. The thickness of the door through the partition wall
is not as crucial as it being relatively airtight--to keep the cool
air from "spilling out" from under the door. In my experience
you should omit any vents unless the humidity is high, but your mileage
may vary (YMMV).
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Poll Results: An Exercise in Humility--a Poll on Embarrassing Mistakes »
Letter Re: Advice on Where to Learn Practical, Tactical Skills
Dear Jim:
As my confidence in the dollar depreciates and my desire for skills
increases, I'm wanting to convert FRNs
into hands-on knowledge. What weeknight or weekend workshops would
you recommend? Are there any places
where you can learn Army Ranger skills without joining the military?
Animal husbandry, and so on? - Spencer
JWR Replies: There is a tremendous wealth of free
or low-cost classes available--enough to keep you busy every weekend
of
the year
if you are willing to drive a distance. If you have time and
just a bit of money, you can get some very well-rounded training in
skills that
are quite applicable to post-TEOTWAWKI living. In
my experience, the most cost-effective training opportunities in the
U.S.
include:
American
Red Cross First Aid and CPR classes
Local Community College, Park District, and Adult Education classes.
They offer classes on metal shop, auto shop, wood shop, leather crafting,
ceramics, baking, gardening, welding, and so forth.
RWVA Appleseed Shoots.
These are held all over the nation. They offer great training for
very
little money. The West
Side Sportsman's Club,
located on the west side of Evansville, Indiana is hosting the national
RWVA shoot on June 30 / July 1st. The
Red Brush Gun Range, located on the east side
of Evansville is having another Appleseed, and they're also having
an Appleseed Boot Camp. The boot camp starts on Monday
October 22 thru
Friday
Oct. 26th. Then
the Appleseed Shoot is on Saturday Oct. 27 and Sunday Oct. 28. The deal is
if you want to attend both the Boot Camp and the Appleseed match, you
do so for $200. Yes, for just $200 you can have seven
days of
top
notch
marksmanship training.
U.S. Army ROTC classes,
the ROTC Ranger program (administered by individual university ROTC
Departments), and ROTC
Leader's Training Course, aka Basic Camp). The first two years
of the ROTC program--including Leader's Training Course--are available
to any full-time enrolled
undergraduate college student
(including "cross-enrolled" junior college students) with
no contractual obligation. Participation in the ROTC Ranger
program by anyone other than enrolled ROTC cadets is usually up to
the discretion of the instructor or the PMS.
When I was in a ROTC Ranger program back in the early 1980s, we had
two Marine Corps PLC students
and an Administration of Justice (police science)
major in our Ranger program, as supernumeraries. So even if you don't
sign up for ROTC classes, you might be able to be involved in a Ranger
program.
Of particular note: If you sign up for the four week ROTC Leader's
Training Course at Fort
Knox,
Kentucky,
you will actually get paid to
attend, plus get a couple of free pairs of combat boots. To be eligible
to participate in ROTC, you must be under 31 years of age
on Dec 31 st of the year that you expect to graduate. (Or possibly
34 years old, with waivers.) The best chance to get a slot at the ROTC
Leader's Training Course is during your sophomore year of college,
but when I was there I met a graduate student that had wangled a slot.
(He eventually got a direct
commission, by virtue of his ROTC "contact hours")
LDS (Mormon)
cannery classes/canning sessions. Many "wards" have
their own canneries, which are generally open to non-Mormons. (OBTW,
the LDS food
storage calculator web page is a very
useful planning tool.)
FEMA /
CERT
Classes (Classroom and Internet courses, some with team commitment)
ARRL amateur radio classes.
Species-Specific or Breed-Specific Livestock and Pet Clubs
NRA and State Rifle and
Pistol Association training and shooting events
Fiber
Guilds (spinning and weaving) and local knitting clubs
Mountain Man/Rendezvous Clubs (Blackpowder
shooting, flint knapping, soap making, rope making, etc.)
University/County
Agricultural Extension and Cattleman's Club classes
on livestock, gardening, weed control, canning, et cetera
Medical
Corps small
group classes. I heard that they have scheduled just one hands-on
Combat/Field Medicine Course thusfar for 2007. It
will be at the OSU Extension Campus, in
Belle Valley Ohio, April 20-21-22. That class is full, but
check their web site for additional course dates. They offer
great
training--including advanced life saving topics that the
American
Red
Cross doesn't teach--at
very reasonable
cost.
Volunteer
Fire department (VFD) classes
(usually with some commitment)
Candle and Soap Making Clubs/Conventions
Boy Scouts and 4H.
Informal, un-enrolled ("strap hanger") training is available
for adults--just take your kids to the meetings and don't leave.
I would also consider these less important (but still worthwhile)
training opportunities, as time permits:
Sheriff's posse and Search and Rescue (SAR) programs
Police department "Ride Along" and Police Reserve programs
Civil Air Patrol (CAP) courses.
Civic/Ethnic Club cooking classes
« Letter Re: Build-It-Yourself Pocketknife Kits |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Nuclear, Chemical or Biological Disaster Preparedness, by Brian A.
One of the recent phrases the media has used almost to exhaustion is,
"dirty" bomb. A dirty bomb, or radiological dispersion
device (RDD) is basically an explosive device with some element of
radioactivity attached, or
some other means of distributing radioactive particulate matter. When
detonated, it releases radiation in the form of dust or debris, which
is harmful mostly when inhaled, or introduced into the body by other
means, (eyes, open cuts, etc.). The main terror use of such a weapon
would be to contaminate emergency services workers responding to the
initial blast. In the 1990s, Chechen rebels reportedly placed such
a device in a park in Moscow, They used no explosive or other means
to announce
it's presence; they just let it sit there and expose passers by to
radiation until it suited their needs to tell the Russians it was there.
They could just as well have spread the material on the ground and
let people track contamination wherever they went.
What if you live near a nuclear reactor/facility? First off, the Nuclear
Regulatory Commission controls all nuclear facilities in the United
States. The NRC strictly controls and governs safety and security of
all nuclear facilities. They mandate a "layered" approach
to security systems, with redundant perimeter controls, and a dedicated,
heavily armed reactive force of trained professionals. The chances
of a successful attack on a facility by terrorists is slim and none,
and "slim" just left town. In addition, the safety systems
are layered to provide backups to backups, especially the critical
cooling systems. In the event of a release of radiation, the public
would be notified, and given instructions to follow, such as whether
to evacuate, or to stay in their homes.
Contrary to popular belief, a detonation/release of either type would
not be a "death ray, heat wave" type situation. In both situations,
the radiation would come in the form of particulate matter, and affect
the population according to proximity and winds at the time. For example,
in both situations, depending on the direction of the wind, you could
be five feet away from the release and not be affected, or be a half-mile
away and receive a dose. This is why winds are important, and are taken
into account by emergency officials when evaluating nuclear events.
This is why having both a "bug out" (which we will call,
dramatically, an 'egress' plan), and a plan to stay at home are equally
important. For example, have several routes planned for several different
areas in at least two opposite directions. This takes into account
wind direction, as well as other naturally occurring situations, (flood,
fire, riots, etc.)
I'm sure some of us remember the "duck and cover" days (no,
not me, I'm not that old), of the evil Soviet empire,
launching missiles at our cities, envisioning Hiroshima-like mushroom
clouds.
There is an important lesson in the philosophy of those times, be
prepared.
Have a plan to deal with emergencies at home, while keeping yourself
and your family safe, and one to leave your home, and go to a safe
area.
Here, we'll discuss two strategies, the egress plan, and the stay at
home plan.
Egress or "Bug Out" Plan.
In the event of a radiological release due to an incident at a nuclear
facility or a terror detonation of a RDD type device. (This plan will
also apply to natural disasters, rioting or other scenarios). Your
best option may be to evacuate, leaving your home or workplace for
a safer area as prompted by authorities. You'll notice I mentioned
home and workplace. What would you do if you and your
spouse are at work and the kids are at school? Do you have the means
to contact them
or retrieve them? What kind of emergency procedures do the schools
have in place? Find out. You need to have contact numbers and be sure
that everyone knows the plan. Another thing to keep in mind is that
if you are leaving, everyone around you also has the same idea. This
is why evacuation is to only be carried out if danger is imminent,
and planning of at least two different routes to your safe area is
critical. Picture rush hour with a "chicken little the sky is
falling" mentality, that's what roads exiting a disaster area
could resemble. A good idea is to have at least one of your routes
on secondary roads, staying away from highways, as they could be generally
congested. Your vehicle is critical. Keep it maintained. Think of
your car as you would your duty weapon if you were a police officer.
Take
care of it, and it will take care of you. This means a spare tire,
keeping gas in your tank and changing the oil, as well as regular maintenance.
Keep road maps in your vehicle as well as a spare quart of oil, and
spare antifreeze/coolant. A small emergency/bug out kit should be kept
in all of your vehicles, and contain the following:
Non-perishable food items, MREs/canned meats.
At least 2 quarts of clean drinking water.
Matches or a fire source
Multi-tool or "Swiss army" type knife.
40' of rope capable of supporting 200 Lbs.
Duct tape, string, nails, etc.
Survival or thermal blanket.
Small first aid kit (bandages, antiseptics, bug repellent, pain medications)
This is a small compact kit, which can be assembled with around $25.00.
You probably already have most of the items you will need in your garage.
There are many different sources for MREs and survival foods on the
Internet and in various publications, or you can pick up "SPAM" type
canned meats at your local grocery store for around $1.00 a can. They
have a shelf life of several years, and provide critical fats and calories
when you need them most. The rope can be obtained at a local shopping
center or sporting goods store. I picked up mine at a boating supply
store. All of these items can be placed in a small backpack or duffel
bag, or a great idea is a USGI surplus ammo can, also available on
the Internet or a local army surplus store for around $5 each,
They're airtight, waterproof, and strong. I use the ". 50 cal" can
in my cars, and all of the items listed fit with room to spare. The
idea here is to keep it compact, as it's going to stay in the vehicle.
Also keep in mind that temperatures in a car trunk can soar into the
triple digits in the summer and well below freezing in the winter.
Checking the contents at least once a month is a good idea, and if
you are using conventional tap water in containers, change the water
at least once a year, cleaning out the containers before putting the
fresh water in. I also carry a pair of good quality GMRS/FRS radios
for communication with extra batteries if needed for communication.
A large "bug out bag" should be prepared for each family
member and be stored in your home, or in cases of extreme heightened
awareness, kept in your vehicle, some items to be considered for that:
Non perishable food for three days
Portable water for three days
Matches or other fire source.
Flashlight, spare batteries and spare bulbs.
Portable AM/FM radio with spare batteries
Survival type or thermal blanket.
Multi-tool or "Swiss army" type knife.
Portable pocket saw.
Small first aid kit, including insect repellent, and needed prescription
medications
Small backpacking type, "pup tent" for shelter.
3 strong plastic garbage bags.
"Isolation" or particle/dust protective masks.
These items should be packed into a portable waterproof backpack, and
need to be checked and maintained at least once every few months. (Author
uses a frame type hiking pack) The Isolation masks can be purchased
at a medical supply store and will provide inhalation protection against
particulate matter; "Dust Masks" will also work for this
application, and can be purchased at a hardware store. While these
do not provide the level of protection as "Gas Masks", and
Self Contained Breathing Apparatus, they will work for particulate
matter. And, besides, personnel that wear this equipment are trained
and individually fit tested for the equipment. Improper use of such
masks can be more harmful than helpful. The author also recommends
the use of chemical light sticks. Available from surplus, camping supply,
and sporting goods stores for around $1.00 each. They are portable,
bright, safe, and last for up to 12 hours. They can provide a good
source of light for an area or can be used as a marker. Keep in mind
that these should not be used to replace a flashlight and spare batteries.
Stay at home plan.
In some scenarios, leaving home may not be the best thing for you or
your family. In those situations, you need to be prepared to stay in
your home and be self sufficient for up to a week. A good idea is to
have precut plastic sheeting cut and labeled for the windows and doors
of your home. These can be affixed with duct tape and will prevent
particulate matter that may contain harmful radiation from entering
your home. Precutting the sheets and labeling them with marker will
speed up the application process. It may be necessary to isolate your
water supply from the outside, to prevent the introduction of harmful
elements, know where your shut off valves are. Also keep in mind that
you probably already have a 40-gallon fresh water supply in your house,
your hot water tank. Most hot water tanks are equipped with a drain
valve in the bottom and an intake shut off valve. Know where these
are. In the event of a possible contamination of the water supply,
you may need to turn off the flow of incoming water, and be able to
use the water in the tank. A good idea if you are going to do this,
however, is to purge you tank regularly. Sediments will build up in
the bottom of the tank, and can be drained by the valve in the bottom.
Just keep draining the water until it comes out clear. I have a couple
of "camping style" 10 gallon blue [plastic] containers that
are made for water that I keep filled in the event they are needed.
These
have
handles for ease of transport and do not affect the taste of the water
during prolonged storage. The Federal
Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) recommends at least
one gallon of water, per person, per day, for at
least three days. I feel that this is a good guideline, as studies
have shown that three days is the average time it takes for outside
aid to reach disaster areas and begin distribution to the public.
Food is also crucial. Again, you will need enough food for each family
member for at least three days. It's a good idea to keep a supply of
non-perishable food items for all family members in portable plastic
storage bins; these can also be purchased at a local department store
for a few dollars. This will provide ease of transportation in the
event relocation is required. You will need to check and rotate food
stocks to keep them fresh and current.
One of the most important tools you can have during an emergency situation
is communication. Local authorities already have contingency plans
in place, and will pass the info on to you. However, you need a means
of getting that information. A battery-powered radio is one of the
most important ways of getting this information. Power supplies may
be interrupted by disaster situations, accidents, or terrorist activity
which makes self powered devices important.
All communities around nuclear power facilities as well as most major
population centers have an emergency broadcast system, which may consist
of sirens, public address (PA) speakers, television and radio broadcasts,
and activation of local authorities. It's up to you to know what the
audible
sirens
represent, and when to take action. Remember the words of George
Santayana "Those
who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it."
Words to live by.
JWR Adds: In my opinion, having just a three day supply of
food is overly optimistic. FEMA is not likely to come cahrging to the rescue in every neighborhood in just three days. So a three month supply of food with a three week supply
of water (and the means to filter additional water that is gathered later)
is more realistic. Also, it is important to consider charity for your neighbors. A
five year supply of storage food for one family can also be a three month supply
for
20
families, or a three day supply for 200 families.
Brian mentions sheet plastic and duct tape. Completely
sealing a room (which of course he is not suggesting) would be suicidal.
Commercially-made shelter air pumps and HEPA filter
systems are sold by a number of Internet vendors including Ready
Made Resources and Survival
Logistics. (Please mention SurvivalBlog when you order.) Instructions on
how to build improvised air pumps
and
filters
can be found in the book Nuclear
War Survival Skills, which is available for free download,
courtesy of the Oregon Institute
of Science and Medicine. Keep in mind that your air filter box must be
isolated and/or shielded from the occupied portion of your shelter, since it will
accumulate radioactive particulates.
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Chimney Construction, by PrepNow
I would like to offer some information about my experience with
chimney construction and creosote build up. This information does not
apply to the typical suburban open fireplace. What I’m talking
about is a wood-burning stove designed to heat your home or shelter.
There are a number of manufactured fireplaces
available that are designed to regulate the amount of combustion air
traveling into the firebox and consequently the control the actual
burn. These are the most efficient and are the type that we would be
using in a structure designed to ride out the future storm.
Construction of the chimney is extremely important. In this case the
old ways are not the best. Fire brick and chimney tile will eventually
burn out and will not handle many chimney fires. I heated my two-story
log home in Montana for years primarily with split pine, which is very
susceptible to creosote build up. Due to the construction of the chimney
and fireplace I was able to regularly “burn out” the creosote
safely.
I constructed the chimney using high quality triple wall stainless
steel chimney pipe that was designed with separate air spaces between
each layer of tubing. This allows the inner tube to dissipate heat.
(Never use the double wall insulated pipe because it will contain heat
and can cause extremely high temperature build up in the wall of the
tube). The triple wall stainless steel (SS) chimney tubing was then
encased in a framed shaft lined with fire rock all the way to the roof.
The
SS
tube
extended
through the metal roof cap. This cap was removable so that the tubing
could be pulled out and replaced if necessary without disassembling
the chase and associated walls. Of course a spark arrester was installed
on top of the chimney. I installed a vent in the bottom and top of
the chase to capture the heat from the chase and reduce any heat build
up. The vents incorporated at lead link controlled fire damper so that
if there was a fire in the chimney chase they would automatically close.
The bottom of the chimney was located directly above the fireplace
and connected by a single wall SS pipe open to the room. The entire
corner walls and floor where bricked and the stove set on the brick.
The fireplace was a plate steel enclosed box lined with firebrick.
There were controllable air intakes on the front doors and also a combustion
air vent piped from outdoors with a control damper built in near the
stove. These allowed me to shut down the air supply and control the
fire level. Most of the time the fire was kept and a fairly low level
and consequently contributed to creosote build up in the chimney.
About once a week during the main heating season I would open the air
intakes and allow the fire to build up enough to burn the creosote
out of the chimney. This can be a little spooky the first time you
do it because it sounds like the chimney is going to blast off into
space. I chose days when there was adequate snow cover or wet weather
in order to eliminate the chance of fire from sparks emitted from the
chimney. These chimney burnout’s were generally very small and
short-lived due to repeating them on a regular basis. During the learning
curve I did have a couple of fires that emitted a large amount of flames
and smoke from the chimney. I monitored the heat coming from the chase
vents and it never exceeded an uncomfortable level. I also inspected
the flue system and no damage was done other than a discoloring of
the spark arrestor.
The weak link in a system like this is the single wall pipe between
the stove and the chimney. This must be stainless steel, have adequate
spacing from combustibles and be inspected regularly.
Another thing to remember is that a small hot fire is much better than
a large cool fire. This is accomplished through the control of intake
air and will become easy to maintain with practice. More of the gases
that create creosote are burned in the hot fire. The diameter of the
chimney flue is also important. If sized too large the velocity of
the smoke and gases will move up the flue too slowly and will cause
build up. Some of the older large chimney’s actually set up a
convection current inside the flue drawing cold air from above, heating
it and moving back up and out. This also opened the door for an uncontrolled
chimney fire because it was self-feeding. A smaller diameter flue creates
a higher velocity current fed only by the controlled combustion air
thus keeping the smoke gasses a little hotter, moving them out of the
chimney and reducing creosote build up.
The important element of this type of heating system is the ability
to shut off the supply air. You can literally kill a fire in this manner.
A back-up dry chemical fire extinguisher released into the front air
damper opening should solve any out of control problem. I never found
this necessary but kept one on hand, just in case.
Another point that goes along with wood heating is having a metal roof
on your house. This is the simplest way to fire proof your roof and
a good standing seam system, (not a screw down), is easily a 50-year
roof. I had hand-split cedar shake shingles on mine and was always
paranoid about the possibility of it catching fire from either a chimney
spark or a forest fire. My next home will have a standing seam galvanized
aluminum roof. Pricey, but worth it.
« Letter Re: Supporting SurvivalBlog |Main| State and Federal Lands--Poor Choices for Short Term Retreat Locales »
Letter Re: Observations on the Recent Missouri Ice Storm
Mr. Rawles,
I live in Southwestern Missouri. Did you followed the ice storm that
buried the Midwest? We got hit pretty hard. We get hit hard every
four or five years. Which brings me to my point. I have never seen
so many unprepared people in all my life.
After day two of the ice storm power was out (for a month in a lot
of places like Springfield). There were no gas cans to be found at
any store. Batteries, disposable propane bottles, flashlights, milk,
and meat were missing from the shelves of every store. Even Wally World
[Wal-Mart] was bare. Kerosene shot up to as much as six dollars a
gallon just before the pumps went dry. And generators? Forget it. Blood
sucking
companies were trucking in generators in 18 wheelers then selling them
in parking lots for outrageously inflated prices.
I work part time at a nation wide auto parts store so I got to see
some ground level action. Folks were buying seven dollar flashlights
just for the two D cell batteries in them. I watched a guy buy a twenty
dollar torch kit just for the three dollar bottle of propane it came
with. I know we're not talking about TEOTWAWKI or WTSHTF.
We're just talking about a relatively short period of time without
any utilities
and day to day comforts.
It was business as usual at my place. We had plenty of food, warmth,
and lights.
I have several ceiling mounted light fixtures in my house with 12 volt/75
watt bulbs in them. Two batteries in the garage power them. I used
my fireplace for heat. I have Plenty of stored water. I keep lots of
those disposable propane bottles around for my lantern and cook stoves.
A gas stove and a gas hot water heater are a must. I would never own
a home with an electric kitchen. A few number 10 cans of bulk food,
a few MREs, and even some frozen meats and foods took care of our meals.
My scanner and my Wife's small palm sized TV kept us informed of the
weather and police activity in our area.
We never missed work, we never missed any meals, we never missed a
hot shower, and we never got cold. All because of a few simple things
I did years ago. What I did wasn't expensive, hard, or complicated.
Any one can do it.
[Odds are that] in another four or five years we will be hit by another
devastating ice storm. I hope that the folks around here have learned
something.
- Bob F. in Missouri
« Letter Re: Veterinary Antibiotics and Medical Freezers |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Observations on the Recent Oklahoma Ice Storm
Jim:
Well, I just got back online. I had to go up to the roof and thaw the
wireless [Internet] antenna with a heat gun. It seems the ice grounds
out the antenna. It was an easy fix with my heat gun for heat shrink
tubing. More precipitation is on the way but colder. It will
probably just be snow. We never
lost power but
were ready anyway. I have friends with no power and they
have been without power for days and no idea when it will
be back on. The further
out you live, the less chance of getting back on line. Power is also
out at the feed mill so feed stores are short on feed and they say
that they no idea when more will com. We bought extra and can always
supplement with
more hay or alfalfa. We could butcher the pigs early or sell some
cattle if needed but all of our preparation this Fall is paying off. Think ahead!
Wall-Mart is out of propane cylinders and no extra tanks around.
We have plenty
of tanks and are set to fill from the bulk tank here as needed. You
always need an alternative means to do everything. Redundancy is
the word
for survival. I have some friends with no heat. They report
46 degrees in the house. Standard fireplaces put out very little
heat. [JWR Adds: Yes, in fact they have been documented
to put more heat up the chimney than into a room!] We have electric
heat, woodstove,
and propane heat. Redundancy means you will always be warm. We lost
some branches and the storm knocked down my 160 Meter loop antenna
but it works almost as
well
on the ground. (Thanks to the design and the antenna tuners we can
just re-tune and are up and running.) Repair should take about 2
to 3 hours since the antenna is set to go up and down at each pole
for
maintenance. Hint: the design was well thought out and therefore
easy to fix. Think ahead. Of course we have 4 or 5 ways to receive
and
transmit, plus the mobile radio. Again, redundancy. Our
[photovoltaic] solar panels were covered with ice but still function,
and we have more
in the barn
to use that are thawed. We continue to look for weak spots and all
I came up with is the need for more batteries and more power. We
have tow or three ways to do everything so if one system is down
we just go to the next. Sure makes you feel good that instead
of driving new
vehicles we [instead] have heat, power, water, and food and backups
for each. No worries about heat is a big relief. One of
my friends has
a generator, but no heat. Although he knows the items he needs
to provide heat, there is nothing available. It is all sold
out. Guess that is why
I take
those
old propane heaters and put them in storage. Backup for the backup.
We are looking forward to the snow--better than ice. We have wood
to pick up today at the lumber mil. (We get the slabs from the mill,
load
on
the trailer banded together and take them home. We cut it [for fuel]
as we need it. More in the woods [hereon my property] but I will
leave it for more backup. Keep
preparing. Do one thing each day and it will all add up. Anyone got
a good milk cow? We need a new one, since even livestock gets worn
out and old. God Bless,
- Alphie Omega
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes From JWR: »
Pre-Crisis Survival Skills, by D.A.L.
Pre-crisis survival skills: The only tool more valuable than knowledge
is an attitude of self sufficiency. The mere willingness to provide
for your own needs can pay off everyday, even absent any “end
of the world as we know it” event. In fact, simply being willing
to provide for your own needs can pave the way for not only learning
valuable skills, but saving money to boot!
By way of example let me tell you about a recent experience with the
steam heating system at my lady friend’s house. It is a Victorian
house and the main boiler furnace was replaced five years ago as it
was in poor condition and needed a new boiler. This is a single pipe
steam
system not a closed hot water system so it needs regular water replenishing.
The other thing of note is her water is very hard locally with lots
of dissolved minerals.
So the story begins with the first cold afternoon of the season. The
thermostat had been turned on and the pilot light was working that
morning so she figured when she got home everything would be toasty
warm. Well she got home and had no heat, and so called the heating
man to come and see what was wrong. He came and checked over the system
and got it going. He said it was a plugged flue so he cleaned that
and put in a new low water sensor lead which appeared corroded and
leaves her with a $100 bill, an hour later. To me this says
the burner is carbonizing and not burning cleanly for a gas fired boiler.
No other future recommendations besides call them if there are any
other further issues. Okay, I didn’t have to do anything so no
real complaints.
A week later no heat and again she calls, a second service tech is
there and 60 minutes later she has heat and another $100 bill. This
time
it is a low water condition and he fills the boiler manually but couldn’t
read the level in the site glass so just filled it till it started
running again, but he says everything is okay for now and maybe you
will have to replace the lower water controller at a future time.
I finally say enough I am going to take look at it. So a quick search
on the web on boilers and a basic plumbing book I had on the shelf
that I got at a garage sale the year before for a dollar and I now
have some basic information for trouble shooting, then I go down to
start with a survey.
The first thing I see is the main drain valve installed by this same
company five years ago on the new boiler, has the valve handle removed
so it can sit right up tight next to the water heater that stands beside
the boiler. Funny after 100 years the boiler no longer needs periodic
draining to remove scale even though the owner has been systematically
doing it for 15 years per the previous recommended service people.
So the tech has had to use a pair of vise grips to open the value to
drain the boiler to test the low water sensor. Not that this 2nd tech
would consider replacing the valve and putting in an elbow to turn
the valve away from the hot water heater so a proper draining could
be done in the future, and maybe he should consider cleaning the sight
glass which was so coated with crud inside you couldn’t see the
water level properly anyway.
I having been a maintenance engineer for two years so I said "Okay
lets fix this baby."
So I spent $9 for a new elbow and valve, and had at hand some
Teflon pipe dope and assortment of wrenches, a proper work light and
bucket to sit on to take the weight off my knees as this might take
a while and I can only squat for so long and I was ready to start.
Now I see why the tech took so long to trouble shoot the boiler issues.
They had to drain the boiler into a bucket, one bucket at a time to
get out the 40 odd gallons in the systems at $85 dollars an hour, nice
work if you can get it, emptying boilers manually, gee isn’t
this the 21st century, wow maybe I am in the wrong business, anyway
so I get a bucket and put in an electric sump pump I have to hand and
hook up the garden hose and then by draining the cooled boiler water
directly into the bucket continuously and running the sump pump I put
the water out through the hose and I drained the system in fewer than
5 minutes. Wow maybe I should be giving the certified plumbers a lesson
in efficiency.
First improvement: Bucket, pump, hose for draining and testing.
Then when the water was emptied, I had my lady
