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Letter Re: Advice on Stocking Up on Batteries
Sir;
I was wondering: How many batteries should I store for all my radios, flashlights,
smoke detectors, and so forth? I'm also planning to get night vision goggles,
soon. I assume rechargeables, right? If so, what kind [of rechargeables], and
who has
the
best prices? - T.E.
in
Memphis.
JWR Replies: I recommend buying mainly nickel metal hydride
(NiMH) batteries. Stock up plenty of them, including some extras for
barter and charity. Unlike the older Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) technology, NiMHs
do not have
a "memory" effect.
(The diminished capacity because of the memory effect has always been one
of the greatest drawbacks to NiCds batteries.) The best of the breed are the latest Low Self Discharge (LSD) variants, such as the Sanyo Eneloop.
One discount supplier with a
very good selection that I can enthusiastically recommend is All-Battery.com.
They
also have great prices on "throw away" batteries, such a lithium CR-123s.
« Letter Re: EcoBeam Construction for Ballistic Protection |Main| Letter Re: Advice on Stocking Up on Batteries »
Four Letters Re: Advanced Medical Training and Facilities for Retreat Groups
James
In response to BES in Washington's comment on Paramedics and EMTs I must say
that I agree when it comes to workaday medics. A great benefit to having
the years of training as a paramedic is that it earns
you some credibility.
My advice to paramedics and long time EMTs is to speak to your training officers
and EMS directors and find out if your supervising physician or another doctor
would be willing to mentor you in surgery[, though observation]. I had the
opportunity starting with my paramedic internship to make relationships with
quality doctors
who wanted to mentor me in advanced surgical skills which were often outside
my scope of practice. It is important to somehow become a student under the
hospital so their insurance or that of your school will cover you or
this is a pointless exercise.
Getting advanced mentoring means establishing a bond of trust. You need to
convince the surgeons and doctors that you are reliable as well as being the
type of person that they want to have in their O.R. for hours. It doesn't hurt
to mention a desire to go to medical school in the future, I believe it was
my interest and reliability that opened many doors to advanced training that
might have otherwise would have remained closed.
The other thing that helped me was taking a part time job in the E.R. on my
off days, it was easy to have my beeper go off and run to the O.R. when there
was a surgical emergency. I got to see trauma calls come in and because of
my special training relationship with many of the doctors and departments I
was able to follow many cases from the door to the ICU. I made many career
decisions based on the opportunity to advance my skills.
In the end, once you are inside the system as a professional start asking for
extra training, remember that the title Doctor means teacher and if approached
with the proper attitude most good doctors are very happy to help you learn.
- David in Israel
Jim:
Just a quick note regarding medical training. While the combat medic courses
look okay, they are limited. EMT courses require a lot of advanced equipment.
A much better option would be a Wilderness First Responder (WFR) course.
It is an 80 hour course over about 10 days that teaches extended care and
injury
management. It is the gold standard in the outdoor industry. The "wilderness" designation
means that definitive medical care is more than an hour away--and then trains
you to deal long evacuations or extended care.
There are a number of places offering WFR courses throughout the United States.
You can contact the Wilderness
Medicine Institute of NOLS for a list of courses,
as well as others. What we like about the WMI courses is that they focus on
real world scenarios, as well as judgment. They are
not about memorizing lists, but about learning how to make good decisions under
stress. The courses and on-going recertification are more than worth it, as
they keep you sharp and up to date on what the latest issues and concerns are
in wilderness medicine.
Perhaps the best thing about WMI and related companies is that their instructors
are in the field teaching and doing wilderness medicine all the time--they
know what works and what doesn't work.- Mark R.
Dear Jim,
Thank you for sending us your autographed copy of the best of the blog and
the patriots. In response to the posting "Letter Re: Advanced Medical
Training and Facilities for Retreat Groups"
I commend the writer for addressing these important issues. Here are a few
thoughts to add: Over the years, the field of medicine has become very complex,
including training, equipment, and delivery. Lets look at each of these individually.
First, training. It used to be that every physician went through medical school,
then completed a general practitioner residency and then specialized in a particular
field if they were so inclined. About 10 years ago, that all changed. Now,
even before medical school is completed, the students decide which area
of medicine they would like to pursue and go directly into that residency program
without becoming a general practitioner first. What
this means is that physician's knowledge is highly specialized. Physicians
are good at what they do, but lack the knowledge/experience to perform tasks
outside their area of expertise. For example, if you were to suffer a bone
injury which
required an operation, the person you would need to see would be an orthopedic
surgeon. However, they
would most likely not feel comfortable putting you to sleep. For that,
you would need an anesthetist. And, if you also had and abdominal wound (e.g.
gunshot),
the orthopedic surgeon would most likely not feel
comfortable operating. For that, you would need a general or a trauma surgeon.
And if you happened to have burns associated with your injury, you are best
off with a plastic surgeon. Now throw a diabetic patient into the picture (for
which you need an internist), and you get the picture.
I am a physician, having recently graduated after 14 years of university, including
a biochemistry degree, a medical degree, and five years of residency specializing
in oncology. If you have cancer, I will
know what to do, but if you put me in an operating room, we're all in trouble!
The point is that if you have "one physician" in your survival group,
don't expect them to be able to do everything. Medicine is very multi-disciplinary:
General surgeons are best at abdominal wounds and trauma
Plastic surgeons are best at handling burns
Orthopedic surgeons are best at dealing with bone fractures
Internists deal with medical problems like diabetes and heart disease
Anesthetists provide anesthetic to put you to sleep for the operation
Oncologists deal with cancer
Pulmonologists deal with ventilators and such, et cetera.
All of these are highly specialized physicians, but physicians knowledge of
cross specialties is limited!
Second, equipment. In third world countries, physicians have wonderful diagnostic
skills based on physical examination of the patient. Most American physicians
don't have these skills. We rely very
heavily on tests including X-rays, ultrasounds, CT scans, MRI scans, PET scans,
angiography, blood work, laboratory tests with pathologic interpretation, etc,
just to name a few. All of these require expensive equipment, laboratories,
power to run them, and a radiologist or pathologist (specialized physician)
to interpret them. Asking a physician to diagnose your ailments without being
able to perform any of these tests is like asking your mechanic to tell you
what is wrong with
your car without allowing him to lift the hood. It is very difficult! Thus,
even
if you have a physician with appropriate knowledge in your survival group,
if they don't have access to their equipment, they will be very limited in
what they can do.
Third, delivery. Let's assume that a member of your group becomes ill and
that 1) you have a physician in your group with appropriate knowledge and 2)
the physician has access to equipment which allows them to diagnose your ailment.
Then, the physician would know how to treat you. However, there is a big jump
from knowing what you need to actually being able to deliver it.
For example, suppose a member of your group developed a bacterial pneumonia.
Lets say your physician was able to perform a chest xray to confirm this. Now
the physician knows how to treat you. You need an antibiotic. Now the problem
becomes access to appropriate medications/treatment.
What if your retreat does not have any antibiotics on hand? or insulin? or
nitroglycerin? or Fentanyl/Versed (anesthetic)? or IV fluids? or blood? or
chemotherapy? etc. Many of these are difficult to access and/or store.
In summary, the current healthcare system is highly complex in its training,
equipment, and delivery. Many of these issues need to be thought out beforehand
when planning your medical room at your retreat. - KLK
Dear JWR & SurvivalBlog Readers (especially DS in Wisconsin ):
I would like to respond to DS concerning his questions. I agree wholeheartedly
that nobody should try on-the-job training for medical care without a good
mentor. That is what nursing and medical training is for as JWR strongly suggests.
I also agree that the human body is complex and can be inadvertently damaged
with attempted care. However, the human body does have an amazing ability to
repair damage if allowed. This is why I strongly suggested learning techniques
to control and stop bleeding, replace lost intravascular fluids and limit infection.
In trauma, there is the concept known as the “Golden Hour”. During
the first hour after a near-fatal injury, the body can compensate for bleeding
by shutting down perfusion of not immediately critical tissues such as kidneys,
skin, muscles and extremities, thus permitting limited perfusion of heart,
lungs and brain. This is a state known as shock. If the patient can be stabilized
in the first hour, the likelihood of survival is dramatically increased. This
is accomplished by controlling bleeding and replacing lost fluids. Nearly everyone
can be trained to control bleeding, since holding pressure on a dressing is
not difficult. Starting an IV is slightly more complicated but is not beyond
the ability of most people. Even the most gruesome of wounds, such as a chainsaw
injury, will eventually heal if allowed to (although the cosmetics may be less
than desirable). If you can get over the “Golden Hour”, you are
blessed with what I refer to as “The Tincture of Time”.
My second suggestion was to do everything you are capable of doing, even with
the knowledge that survival is unlikely. This is where the concept of errors
of commission verses errors of omission comes into play. In my mind, it is
better to attempt something life-saving than omit the possibility because the
outcome may not be successful. As the quote goes: “Tis better to have
tried and failed, than never to have tried at all.” Our mindset has to
change from “First do no Harm” to one of “Do the Benefits
Outweigh the Risks?”. I don’t think anyone is suggesting reading
a guide while doing this, simply suggesting doing something you are capable
of doing. The key is not to destroy your psyche with remorse and self criticism
if the results are not optimal.
As far as our personal preparations, my wife and I are both experienced medical
people and long ago decided that that would be our biggest contribution in
TEOTWAWKI. As such, we have an elaborate and extensive setup, not unlike what
you describe, however our garage is reserved for other uses currently. We are
an extreme case and should not be viewed as a guide. Unfortunately, I feel
that JWR seriously overestimates the medical preparation
of the general population. Instead of 98%, I would suggest 99.99% of the population
is ill-prepared. The
biggest asset in a trauma situation would be a couple of cases of heavy duty
(I think they are called “heavy days”) feminine pads and some rolls
of tape. IV supplies and the skills to administer it would make you invaluable.
The “field surgical kit” would simply provide appropriately sized
sharp scissors and tweezers/clamps for cleaning out the wound after you have
administered the “Tincture of Time”. It is not something to carry
while also hauling around an enormous ego. - NC Bluedog
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Louisiana Sales Tax Holiday for Hurricane Preparedness--May 24 & 25
Residents of the US state of Louisiana can purchase needed items
free of sales tax as they prepare for the 2008 hurricane season.
The inaugural 2008 Hurricane Preparedness Sales Tax Holiday takes place on
Saturday, May 24 and Sunday, May 25. The holiday is an annual, statewide event
created by the Louisiana Legislature to assist families with the important
job of protecting their lives and property in the event of a serious storm.
During the two-day holiday, tax-free purchases are allowed for the first $1,500
of the sales price on each of the following items:
•
Self-powered light sources, such as flashlights and candles;
•
Portable self-powered radios, two-way radios, and weather-band radios;
•
Tarpaulins or other flexible waterproof sheeting;
•
Ground anchor systems or tie-down kits;
•
Gas or diesel fuel tanks;
•
Batteries – AAA, AA, C, D, 6-volt, or 9-volt (automobile batteries and
boat batteries are not eligible);
•
Cellular phone batteries and chargers;
•
Non-electric food storage coolers;
•
Portable generators;
•
Storm shutter devices – Materials and products manufactured, rated, and
marketed specifically for the purposes of preventing window damage from storms
(La. R.S. 47:305.58).
The 2008 Hurricane Preparedness Sales Tax holiday begins at 12:01 a.m. on Saturday,
May 24, and ends at 11:59 p.m. on Sunday, May 25.
The sales tax holiday does not extend to hurricane-preparedness items or supplies
purchased at any airport, public lodging establishment or hotel, convenience
store, or entertainment complex.
For more information, visit the State
of Louisiana web site.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Louisiana Sales Tax Holiday for Hurricane Preparedness--May 24 & 25 »
Letter Re: Advanced Medical Training and Facilities for Retreat Groups
Jim,
I have been enjoying and appreciating the letters and replies throughout the
blog, and I am compelled to respond to “Advanced Medical Training and
Facilities for Retreat Groups”. The letter contained very accurate and
useful information, but I must comment on medical skills available to survivalists.
First of all, need to say that I am a professional Emergency Medical Technician – and
have been for 25 years. I have treated dozens of real-life gunshot wounds, hundreds
of knife wounds, and thousands of other cases of trauma that I would prefer to
not remember.
As a 911 responder, I appreciate the faith that the general public has in my
knowledge and skills. The word of an EMT or Paramedic is trusted – and
we don’t take that trust lightly. This is a part of the reason for this
letter. In our existing EMS system, EMTs are very good at arriving as
quickly as possible and providing life-saving treatment until definitive care
can be provided. In a TEOTWAWKI event, the shortcomings of EMT skills will be
readily apparent. My crew and I are as good or better than anyone at stopping
bleeding, splinting, providing IV support, protecting airways, and rapid transport.
However, final treatment of a gunshot (or fracture, or chainsaw laceration, or
what have you) is completely out of the realm of experience for any EMT or Paramedic.
A gunshot requires the cessation of bleeding – often requiring surgery.
Usually gunshots also involve bone fractures or organ damage – and require
surgery. An antibiotic regimen is also required – of which EMTs
have little to no experience. All of this is typical for the most simple of gunshots.
My fear is that in TEOTWAWKI, people too readily equate a physician’s knowledge
and skills with that of an EMT. To put a number on it, Physicians attend medical
training for 12 years or so. EMTs typically have two months of medical training.
Now – before I begin to get hate mail from other EMTs – let
me say this: For the treatment of traumatic injuries in the pre-hospital setting,
no one does our job better. I promise you I can do more effective CPR than most
any doctor. I can intubate in the field better than most any respiratory technician.
But my training and skills are limited to pre-hospital care. Of course, an EMT
will have basic useful skills in a hospital or clinic setting but they pale in
comparison to those of a physician. To state otherwise is foolish.
So, as a professional EMT for 25 years, the plan for my retreat is as follows:
1. Have a good relationship with a physician (preferably a surgeon) at the retreat
2. Have a RN, Veterinarian, or Physician’s Assistant at the retreat.
3. Know where other surrounding physicians are located
4. Have a method for transporting severely injured people to the physician,
5. Have adequate, in-depth barter stock to pay for surgery
6. Lastly – and I mean very last – would be to use a scalpel to open
up a family member.
Barter stock would be best that is applicable to the physician’s skills:
surgical tools, antibiotics, rubbing alcohol, sterile bandages, pain killers,
sutures, and so forth. Also beneficial for barter would be other high value items
from gold or silver coins, firearms, or even a fifth of whiskey.
The short of it is this: EMT skills are extremely valuable in the niche that
they are designed. However, they are not designed for long term care. For my
family, I will be providing life-sustaining care to include cessation of bleeding,
splinting, IV, treatment of shock, pain management, and antibiotics – and
they I will do whatever I can to get them to a surgeon. Anything else is second
best. Yes, I have several great books that provide great information, such as “Emergency
War Surgery” and “Where There Is No Doctor”. But to plan on
performing these techniques without adequately exploring all options to get my
wounded to a physician, is foolish. - BES in Washington
« Poll Results: The SurvivalBlog Party Mix |Main| Is Survivalism Just "Unbounded Imagination of Anxiety"? »
Letter Re: Advanced Medical Training and Facilities for Retreat Groups
Mr. Rawles,
Last month I wrote to SurvivalBlog about what do one would do medically in
TEOTWAWKI, when
all systems are down. I had received three very good replies, and have
ben thinking about what was said. I want to thank those people for their valued
replies. Now, I have more questions and concerns.
From what I've read concerning medical advice leaves me wondering.
All of the advice given has stated to get a good quality Field Surgical Kit,
and two books: "Emergency War Surgery"; and, "Where there is no Doctor". Then
these articles went on to [imply that] when a medical emergency arises, grab
your surgical
kit and the Emergency War Surgery Manual, and handle the situation. This is
where I am concerned.
First: The human body is not like the family car. Both are made up of many
complex parts that must work together to provide transportation, in the sense
of a car, and life, in the sense of the human body. There are numerous maintenance
manuals for the car, and the repair of your auto can be learned in a short
time. However, This is not the case for the human body. The human body is composed
of many systems, that are inter-related. It takes a highly trained individual
to repair us, and sometimes, complex medical instruments to help him do his
job. The skills are not learned over night or in the quietness of your family
room. They must be used and practiced on a continual basis in order to do the
job properly. Anyone that says he can operate on a human being with a Field
Surgical Kit in one hand and an Emergency War Surgery Manual in the other,
in my humble opinion is wrong! This individual is about to break the Cardinal
Rule of Medicine: First, "Do Thy Patient No Harm!"
Second: For those either setting up a retreat or are already living with theirs,
I ask this question: Are you prepared for medical emergencies? I'm talking
about a specific area for treatment (i.e. disease and trauma)? If you do not,
then now is the time to prepare for that need. A treatment facility need not
be very large--about the size of a two-car garage. Inside this structure would
be an operating suite, intensive care unit for two patients, and a small laboratory.
You will need specialized training to utilize each area. You can add wind or
solar power systems, running water, or whatever you feel is necessary. It takes
a lot of work and effort to build something like this. It will also be expensive
to supply the right equipment.
Third: If you are a member of a group, you may be in a better position to set
up a treatment facility, and to find a General Practitioner Physician/Surgeon.
Finding such an individual is like having gold in hand. This individual would
be the most important member of your group. He would take care of all the aches,
pains, sniffles and sneezes.
Think about these things and give me your feedback. It will be valuable information
to all the readers. In advance I want to thank you for your replies. - DS in
Wisconsin
Not every retreat group is blessed with finding a doctor to be part of their
group. In the absence of a doctor, I recommend that at least one group member
get EMT training.
This is best accomplished by volunteering with your local Emergency Medical
Service. These are usually paid positions, so the pay offsets
the training expenses.
JWR Replies: Regardless of whether or not your group has
a medical professional,
I recommend that all adult group members get as much training as time
allows. Start out by taking the Red Cross basic and advanced courses and their CPR course.
Then take the field medic course offered by Medical
Corps. Several SurvivalBlog readers have taken this course, and they all
have all commented to me about how impressed with their training. In fact,
one of our readers from Hawaii flew all the way to Ohio to take this course,
and he reported that it was worth the expense. Their upcoming class
(May, 2008) is full, but get on the waiting list for the next one.
I also
recommend the Practical Medical Course taught by the Western
Rifle Shooters Association. (This course is subtitled: "Field Expedient
Medical Care for Outdoorsmen in Austere Environments.") Coincidentally, they
have one scheduled for May 16-17-18, 2008 in Brookings, Oregon.
Check their web site regularly, for announcements of other course dates and
locations. This modestly-priced training, led by an Emergency Room doctor with
35 years of experience,
will teach you many
things that the Red Cross doesn't teach you!
For example, their classes place an emphasis on treating gunshot wounds.
Only the largest and best-financed groups could afford to set up a surgery
suite and lab like you described. It is a worthy goal. But keep in mind that
even modest medical training, instruments, facilities, and logistics are better
than no preparation--which sadly is the state of 98% of American families.
« Letter Re: Indian Tribal Reservation Boundaries as an Issue in Choosing Retreat Locales |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Turning Your Trinkets Into Storage Food
Dear Mr. Rawles,
As I was divesting of the useless flotsam one sees as a hindrance to true preparedness,
I was inspired to list my trinkets on eBay. (Now, for all those who have a
hatred for eBay [because of their anti-gun policies] , this is a separate issue.)
I also have a PayPal account. That is another stumbling block to some. But
for those of us who are still making the transition to becoming prepared citizens
(from their
former
place
in the
herd of sheeple), this may be a very viable opportunity.
Please hear me out!
So, you sell your trash on EBay and get a [positive] PayPal “cash balance”.
Fees notwithstanding, this “cash balance” spends like “cyber
cash” with vendors who accept PayPal, if “cash” is such a
thing in cyber space, but again, that is not my point here. It is
a means to an end. Nothing more.
And we should all agree that there is no point in using credit to
stock up. So my solution is turn trash into cash and then cash into stash!
Fir example Honeyville
Grain accepts PayPal and sells brown
rice, wheat, flour, and the food grade buckets and Oxygen absorbers
to store it all--nearly anything you could want. And here is the kicker: they
charge a flat fee of $ 4.95, regardless of the size of your
order!
I know it is not as simple as a trip down to your local COSTCO,
but we have seen how that works lately. The prices may not
be dirt cheap, but for a person who is home bound, in a difficult geographical
area (high
rise
dweller), or at
a distance to supplies, you can sell useless white elephant trash on eBay,
print postage right off your computer, the mailman comes and gets it, you earn
a “cash balance” in your PayPal account, you order your food, and
it comes to your door. "Easy peasy."
I do hope that the ambivalence some feel toward eBay and Paypal will not stand
in the way of your sharing what may well be a very useful tool for someone
who needs creative solutions for preparedness in this fast changing situation.
Most kindly, and Semper Fidelis - Laura C. in Virginia
P.S.: My friend the former Marine calls me “Caroline Ingalls, Olivia
Walton, and Sarah Conner all rolled into one!”
JWR Replies: Keep in mind that Honeyville's prices (pr pound)
tend to be higher, since they "build in" the shipping costs to their prices.
Also note that several SurvivalBlog advertisers accept payment via PayPal
for non-gun related merchandise.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Sources for Inexpensive FAL Clone Rifles »
Two Letters Re: Homestead Fuel Storage and Rotation
Mr. Rawles:
I checked the archives as well as your advertisers for the NATO-style
metal ratchet clamp style fuel cans that NC Bluedog recommends, no luck. Do
you know
of any sources for this product. The Scepter
brand jerry can that Ready Made Resources sells are great, but owning 20
of those cans becomes cost prohibitive. Keep up the great work. - PN
JWR Replies: Try searching on "German Army Gas Can",
since most of the NATO specification gas cans are German (Bundeswehr) military
surplus.
OBTW, beware of the French Army surplus cans that use a different type filler
neck.
The
necks
for those are scarce!
I anticipate that a larger supply of the new US military fuel can (MFC)
design (a.k.a. Scepter)
cans will hit the civilian market in the next year or two--either as contract
over-runs,
or possibly
as
military surplus. If and when that happens, prices should drop.
For more details on specifications (with photos) see the excellent fuel
can article posted at Survival Monkey.
Major Surplus or Cheaper
Than Dirt might still have some of the
NATO (German) cans in stock.
James,
NC Bluedog just posted about the storage of gasoline. I've got a tested method
for long term storage of 93 octane gasoline:
I've found that BP-Amoco 93 octane ("clear") with 4 oz Sta-Bil
in 5 gallons stores for 8 plus years with no degradation.
I've opened gas stored since 1998 and it was as clear as new, smelled great.
The key is to use NATO
type 5 gallon steel Jerry cans with good seals (mine are from Sportsman's
Guide and Cheaper
Than Dirt). I've also found replacement
can seals from Army Surplus Warehouse in Montana.
Never store gasoline for longer than a few months in plastic
cans - those cans are oxygen permeable. Even without stabilizer I've found
the Amoco clear stores
much longer than other brands. I'd recommend not storing ethanol
blends; here in Pennsylvania, BP-Amoco still does not blend alcohol in their
fuels. Fill
the cans to the bottom of the filler opening to limit air space. The can sides
actually pull in over time as I believe the gas absorbs the oxygen in the remaining
air space. This type of gas storage is do-able for homeowners with small outside
sheds,--those who cannot reasonably have underground tanks. And a few
cans of gas could make all the difference getting to your retreat.
I've found that the best way to pour gas from a can into a car fuel tank
is to use a narrow 5/8 inch neck (for the unleaded nozzle opening), 17" long,
5 inch wide mouth funnel. Mine is made by Blitz in black plastic and available
from Wal-Mart I have always had leak problems with the clamp-on steel nozzles.
It takes a little patience (don't pour too fast), but you can get the whole
can into the tank. The NATO can mouth fits fully into the funnel mouth, so
you can tip it way up to get the last of the gas out of the can. The funnel
dries quickly, too. - BFE
« Letter Re: Coping with Changes in Diet when Using Storage Foods |Main| Note from JWR: »
Homestead Fuel Storage and Rotation, by NC Bluedog
Given that liquid fuel costs are climbing dramatically, and likely to continue
rising, I would like to share some of the practices for fuel storage we employ.
For our homestead, liquid fuel equates to four items, namely: Propane,
diesel fuel, kerosene and last but not least gasoline. For each fuel, there
are specific uses, distinct storage requirements and longevity considerations.
Let me discuss each in order:
The primary furnace in our house runs on propane. Currently, we use electricity
for water heating and cooking. Our annual propane usage is between
500 to
800 gallons
per year depending on the weather and how much wood we burn in the small heating
stove in the living room. My goal when we bought the house was to have one
year of supply, so I had installed two 500 gallon (nominal water capacity)
above
ground propane tanks (800 gallon capacity at 80% fill). I have the tanks filled
during the (typical) summer price drop. Below grade tanks, while preferable
for several
reasons (ballistic protection etc.), are problematic (i.e. expensive) because
of the rocky soil and high water table. Nonetheless, I would like to expand
my capacity to two years, and will likely bear the excavation expense and install
a 1000 gallon underground tank as well. For the grill and portable propane
appliances (stove, lights etc.), we keep a supply of 20 and 40 pound tanks
available. Small one pound propane bottles are refilled from these tanks. (Note: US DOT
regulations prohibit transporting refilled “disposable” cylinders).
Storage life is not of concern with propane, but price and availability are
of paramount importance.
Diesel fuel is used on our homestead for the generator when the power fails
and for the tractor. My little tractor just sips fuel and only uses about 20
gallons per year (mowing etc.). Our storage capacity consists of a 100 gallon “belly” tank
on the generator and a 275 gallon fuel oil tank (i.e. heating oil tank) set
up beside the generator shack. This leads to the problem of low use during
normal times, where longevity is of concern, and problems with fuel transfer
between the tanks. Diesel fuel, being lightly refined, has a relatively long
storage life (5-10 years reported) if properly cared for. This includes relatively
stable temperature, commercial fuel preservative/algaecide (I prefer Pri-D)
and above all else keeping it dry. Again, underground storage would provide
the stable temperature, but rocky soil and US EPA regulations
have precluded me from doing that. Water is the big problem. Humidity condensing
inside the
tank
collects in the bottom under the diesel fuel (oil-water layer) and provides
a nice environment for oil eating micro-organisms. These little bugs make acid
(anaerobic metabolism or vinegar fermentation) which will destroy the metal
tank and other byproducts which clog filters and injectors. An algaecide limits
this but removing the water is even better. To provide for this and allow fuel
transfer, I set up a plumber’s nightmare of supply and return lines with
valves to a water-separating filter and a fuel-oil circulating pump. The pump
is rated at 45 gallons per hour (GPH)
and was bought on-line (~$100) and the filter was bought at the local farm
supply. The pump runs on 12 VDC and
draws only 2 Amps off the generator starting battery. Since this pump only
runs part-time,
a 1.5 A trickle charger makes up for the difference during down times. Diesel
powered boat owners call this “diesel fuel polishing”. My supply
lines are set up at the low side of the tank, so water will preferentially
be pumped out of the tank. About once a month, I set up a “polishing” operation
during the weekend, letting each tank circulate for 24 hours each. Every year
I add an appropriate amount of Pri-D to each tank. Fuel transfer at 45 GPH
is relatively slow, but it only takes 7 minutes to fill the 5 gallon portable
tank for my tractor. Any transfer between tanks needs to be watched closely
so you don’t overfill the receiving tank. While the generator will siphon
its own fuel while running, by adjusting the valves one can provide a little
pressure feed to the injector pump and polish at the same time. I would like
to increase our storage capacity of diesel fuel for more reserve generator
use, but in the absence of a diesel powered vehicle, our annual consumption
would not permit enough rotation to keep the fuel usable.
Kerosene is used in our homestead for the portable kerosene heater, Aladdin
lamps (power failures) and in real hard times the Prize stove. Annual use is
10 to 20 gallons per year during normal times. Our storage capacity consists
of a 50 gallon drum and ten 5 gallon jugs kept in a dry room in the barn. I
prefer the round drum-shaped jugs since they are stackable. Kerosene, like
diesel fuel, is lightly refined and has an approximately 5-to-10 year shelf
life if stored properly. To keep the fuel rotated, I use a bulb siphon pump
attached
to a 4 foot piece of copper tubing that I can place in the drum and siphon
from the bottom. This permits removal of any moisture collected in the drum.
The transferred fuel is drained into a 5 gallon jug for routine use. The height
difference from the drum to the jug permits siphon action without hand pumping,
so long as the drum is nearly full. New replacement fuel is added to the drum
as needed.
Gasoline storage is a real problem. First, it is volatile and very dangerous
to handle. Second, it is the one of the most commonly used liquid fuels at
our homestead. Third, its storage life is extremely limited. And fourth, it
is desirable to have a portable supply in a Get Out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.)scenario.
These are competing and contradictory considerations. During normal times,
our use
is
between 7
and 10 gallons per week (350 – 500 gallons per year). For normal use,
6 months would be considered a typical shelf life, but this can be extended
for up to a year with a good stabilizer (I prefer Pri-G). Gasoline stored longer
may be usable but problematic. Problems include filter and injector/venturi
port clogging and loss of volatility (may require starting ether). The most
difficult aspect is keeping the fuel rotated, since if you store fuel but continue
to fill up your vehicle at the pump, the stored fuel is never rotated. To address
this problem, I have a tiered system of storage. Weekly use of gasoline comes
from a supply of 5 gallon gas cans (currently 20). I strongly prefer the metal
NATO ratchet
clamp style. Consumer quality plastic jugs are just far too fragile in my opinion
and the newer military specification HDPE jugs
too expensive. Don’t
waste your money on surplus or old style “Jerry” (Blitz) cans.
I have never had one that did not leak while pouring, even brand new ones.
The NATO
style cans may be stacked and even laid on their sides without leaking. They
are tough enough to handle a GOOD situation in the back of a pickup. When emptied,
these portable tanks are filled from two 100 gallon “transfer” tanks
in a fixed location. Fuel transfer is handled in a similar manner to the diesel
fuel setup except that the pump is more expensive since it is rated for gasoline.
The fuel is also pumped through a water separating and particulate filter.
These tanks are periodically refilled from a transfer tank in the back of the
pickup. The routine is as follows: Weekly, I top off all vehicles with portable
containers. Since full, the vehicles store more than 100 gallons total. These
5 gallon cans are refilled, to keep an additional 100 gallons in easily portable
containers. About once every two months, I fill the transfer tank in the truck
with added Pri-G stabilizer and refill the “fixed” transfer tanks
in storage. This provides me with 400 gallons of stabilized fuel in constant
rotation
with my nadir being 320 gallons, when it is time to buy more gasoline. All
gasoline is in a well ventilated “shed” and weather/sun protected.
There are several nearby fire extinguishers.
Besides the above “four-horsemen” of liquid fuels, we keep some
additional fuels available. There is a supply of liquid paraffin for odorless
burning in the oil lamps. Any oil lamp we keep filled with fuel for immediate
access has liquid paraffin in it since it doesn’t vaporize and “disappear” leaving
wick-killing varnish like kerosene does. There is also some mineral spirits
for the Prize stove (mineral spirits was the original fuel for oil lamps and
stoves prior to the “invention” of kerosene). Additionally, we
keep some naphtha (white gas/Coleman fuel) despite the fact that all of our
gas appliances/lanterns are “dual fuel”. I do this because it provides
for the best longevity for the “generator tube” in these appliances
and may be a good barter item for people using white gas only appliances. These
could be considered part of the respective kerosene/gasoline inventory, but
I consider them as un-inventoried extras.
Fuel storage is problematic because the fuels mostly needed during TEOTWAWKI,
namely diesel fuel (for electricity generation and tractor use) and kerosene
(for heating, lighting and cooking) are the most infrequently used during routine
times. Our homestead gasoline consumption will likely drop dramatically in
bad times. Propane storage is mostly an economic and availability issue since
the furnace won’t run without electricity and we can heat (at least part
of our house) with wood or kerosene. By limiting he running of the generator,
we should have close to a years’ worth of diesel fuel. Aladdin lamps
use about a pint of fuel for 8 hours, so 100 gallons of kerosene may keep us
with light for up to a year. Gasoline storage should be adequate for up to
the useful storage life of the fuel.
I have tried to strike a balance between annual consumption, storage capacity,
rotation and shelf life in my planning. Basic information would include baseline
consumption data for your homestead, anticipated consumption in bad times and
available storage mechanisms or space. Running these calculations for your
own situation will be enlightening and encourage you toward further preparation.
« Letter Re: An Overlooked Aspect of Preparedness--Crutches and Canes |Main| Homestead Fuel Storage and Rotation, by NC Bluedog »
Letter Re: Coping with Changes in Diet when Using Storage Foods
If and when you find yourself tapping into your survival food, consider that the change
in diet may have some unexpected effects.
As an example, I recently increased my protein intake, then noticed a pain
in my foot. I thought at first it was just an injury from training (jumping
out of a moving car is a little tricky). Later I realized it might be gout.
Four gallons of cherry juice later it's gone and it set me to thinking, how
might my food cache effect me.
I think the main concerns with stored food would be as follows:
Food Allergies. High wheat intake could lead to allergic reactions that could
range from mucus to irritability, fatigue and disturbed digestion.
Constipation. All that dehydrated/freeze dried food has a minimum water content.
Aflotoxins. If you have mold growing on your food, this can create allergic
and in extreme cases, toxic reactions. Cooking will not get rid of these toxins
as they are not alive (infectious) but chemical in nature. You may be able
to see them fluoresce with an ultraviolet light (pen type lights are available)
but even in a dark room you may not see faint color. There are some ideas on
the Internet about washing in various solutions to get rid of the toxins.
Vitamin deficiencies. While minerals will stay in stored food, vitamins and
possibly amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) will deteriorate over
time.
Here are two sites that discuss some of the symptoms. (There are many others):
Real Time
Holistic.com
How might you increase
your vitamin intake after the crash? I
already wrote in SurvivalBlog about sprouting grains. Here's another idea:
Fermentation. Consider making yogurt and beer.
Both types
of fermentation increase vitamin levels, specifically the B vitamins. Beer
has the added advantages of being able to lower stress and is a something we
can barter with. On the other hand, alcohol lowers vitamin C level. - SF in
Hawaii
« Letter Re: Spare Parts Now Available for XD-45 Pistols |Main| Letter Re: Coping with Changes in Diet when Using Storage Foods »
Letter Re: An Overlooked Aspect of Preparedness--Crutches and Canes
Dear JWR;
A week ago, I did the first big spring mowing with a push mower "for the
exercise" (3 acres). The next morning, my knee was swollen, wouldn't
bend, and the pain was breathtaking.
I'm now down to limping around with a cane, and should be fine in a few more
days.
I discovered a weakness in my first-aid preparedness the hard way: I had no
crutches, canes, or aids to mobility for the injured.
I now own a fine set of crutches, two durable walking canes/livestock sticks,
and have a Cold Steel Heavy Duty Sword Cane on the way. I'll be looking for
a folding wheel chair at the spring flea market this month. I discovered that
both of pharmacies in my nearest town give away new cane tips to anyone that
asks. This may common, but surprised me.
Would you, or any of the Medicos in the forum have any recommendations on knee/elbow/shoulder
braces, stretchers, gurneys, etc? My search of the archives did not generate
specific brands or preferred features to shop for. Thanks in advance! - Mike
on the Reservation
JWR Replies: I have found that Craig's
List, garage sales, and estate sales
are the best sources of inexpensive (or even free) used "hard " medical
items. (Garage sales in retirement communities are wonderful.) If you have
the storage space available, buy plenty, since they are often available
for pennies on the dollars. Don't overlook items like walkers, wheelchairs,
toilet
seat extensions, bed pans, "potty"
chairs,
bed linens, and hospital
beds.
(For the
latter, look for the old-fashioned hand-crank variety.). You never know when
someone at your retreat or a neighbor will become, sick, injured,
or wounded,
and require
lengthy
rehabilitation or even long term (chronic) care.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: An Overlooked Aspect of Preparedness--Crutches and Canes »
Letter Re: Spare Parts Now Available for XD-45 Pistols
James,
Count me as another check mark to add to the "switch to XD" category.
I know several shooters who've made the switch from [Model] 1911 [pistols]
to the [Springfield Armory] XD with almost no issues. Most of them
shoot equally well or better with the XD.
In my experience, Model 1911s are just too prone to fail. We see too many here
at the Un-named Shooting School take a dive. Virtually no Glocks or
XDs have mechanical failures, though.
Good Providence! - The Pioche Professional Polymer Pistolero (PPPP).
JWR Adds: PPPP is the pseudonym
for a SurvivalBlog correspondent that is an instructor at a well-known firearms
training academy. I trust PPPP's accumulated wisdom and experience. He has worked
with many hundreds of pistol shooting students, and has seen all manner of
weaponry with and without
all of the popular modifications. He knows from experience what works,
and what doesn't. He has seen what breaks, and what is "bomb proof."
There are M1911 aficionados, and there are Glock aficionados. For many years
I was a dyed-in-the wool M1911 kinda guy. But I could see the wisdom of the
Glock revolution. Their reliability is astounding, and their magazine capacity
is superior to a M1911. (Well, aside from the ParaOrdnance double stack M1911s.)
My only complaints about Glocks were A.) their lack of an external safety,
and B.) their uncomfortable
grips.
The latter
can be
altered
by
a gunsmith. (The
grips can be re-countoured ("reduced") by machining to be slimmer, and the
grip angle can be improved a bit.) But recently, the Springfield "Extreme
Duty" (XD) pistols
hit the market, and in
my estimation they are "the best of both worlds." It combines
the advantages of a polymer frame and the high capacity
of the
Glock
with
the
same
grip
angle
as
a
M1911, (which
provides natural pointing
for most shooters), and the .45 ACP Service Model
variant has an external
safety! Bonus
points
to
the
designers! (Call me a dinosaur, but I like external safeties.) If you are already
a trained Glockophile, you can either get can XD without the thumb
safety lever, or simply get in the
habit of not touching it--since you can rely on just the "in-the-trigger" safety--the
.45 ACP Service Model XD has both safeties.
I recommend that if you are interested in getting
an XD pistol, you should take advantage of Front Sight's very generous "Get
a Gun" training
and gear package offer. It is available only for a limited time, so don't
hesitate. And again, if you are a Rawlesian, you should specify the
XD-45
model.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Do It Yourself Coffee Roasting »
Letter Re: Ammunition Reloading for Survival
Jim,
I saw the article that mentioned Reloading for autoloading rifles, and some comments
that seemed to not completely answer questions people may have.
It is important to note that reloading any caliber is a delicate undertaking
for any gun you are about to trust your life with. The use of case gauges is
an important one, but for the part-time reloader they are an expensive investment
(~$30-50 each!). A much easier method is to test the cartridge in the firearm, to accomplish this, if you are working on either a progressive or single stage press, reload a few rounds as dummies. This means
no powder, no primer, just case and bullet, and test them in the gun for fit
and feed. Do not test fit live ammunition unless you are in a place where a
discharge is allowed. (For most of us [that live inside city limits] this means
a firing range). Numerous negligent discharges have resulted from people not
following proper safety precautions, and even if you do this is never a guarantee that
a mechanical problem won't develop causing an accidental discharge.
If you have issues with reloading bottle-neck rifle cartridges, a likely fix
is to use small base dies, these will size the brass down to a smaller size,
and will size more of the case than a standard full-length sizer. However,
the added working of the brass will result in earlier failure of the brass.
When it comes to [reloading] dies, I recommend against buying those made by
Lee Precision, I have had far too many cases that were mangled, scratched,
or had other defects resulting from the poor quality of Lee [brand] dies. One
thing to be especially careful of when using Lee dies is the decapping pin
will sometimes
stick in the flash-hole, if you are working on automated loading equipment this will likely detonate the [fresh] primer when you go to seat
it. (Most other manufacturers have switched to a headed [de-capping] pin, making
this
an extremely rare problem.). RCBS, Redding, and Lyman all make very good and
sturdy
dies from hardened tool steel, Dillon offers tungsten-carbide sizing dies for
bottle neck rifle cartridges, if you have money to spend, the Dillon dies
will likely outlast your grandchildren, provided they have an adequate supply
of decapping pins (RCBS, Lyman, and a few others offer free replacement parts,
Dillon believes these to be a consumable item, and charges for them).
Regarding the differences between Military and Commercial cartridge specifications
You are absolutely correct, 5.56 and .223 have the same external case dimensions,
but for the most part the similarities stop there. 5.56 has a SAAMI maximum
working-pressure of 55,000 PSI, where as the .223 [Remington] maxes out at
50,000. If a 5.56 round is fired in a .223 firearm, then pressures are likely
to
be
extreme, another key difference is the 5.56 chamber and throat dimensions
are different, the engraving force will be reduced, and there is the potential
for some gas leakage to the rear, a cumulative effect of this will be lower
over-all pressures.
However, with .308 [Winchester] and 7.62mm NATO [the specification difference]
is slightly the other way, but for different reasons. The .308 and 7.62mm NATO
rounds are functionally
identical, while there was some disagreement about the chamber pressures generated by
some commercial ammo (SAAMI maximum some say is 62,000 PSI) and some military
ammo (maximum pressure at 50,000), there seems to be a larger issue with the
military chamber being longer, and thus being harder on the brass. If you are
reloading,
you
can account for these differences with your selection of load and powder. That is one of the true advantages of reloading your own ammunition.
In all likelihood, anyone using a good quality military semi-auto in 7.62mm
NATO isn't going to notice any difficulty using commercial .308 ammo. But keep
it in mind if you ever do encounter problems.
I hope all is well Jim, glad to see you are getting some more public exposure.
It seems that the population at large is waking up, I had a co-worker hand
me your book "Patriots" the
other day. I giggled a bit to myself and told him I already had the book. Even
my mom started asking me questions about the SurvivalBlog site, after hearing
about it on the news. Lets hope all the people who are waking up to the unpleasantness
we are all facing are able to head it off and clean up this mess before a lot
of people have to get hurt. Sincerely, - Drew
JWR Adds: Part of the problem in discussions regarding commercial
versus military cartridge specifications is that some of the specs are written
in terms of pounds per square inch (PSI), while others are written using Copper
Units of Pressure (C.U.P.) They are not the same scales!
« Letter Re: Cooking Aromas and Post-Collapse OPSEC |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Spare Parts Now Available for XD-45 Pistols
Jim:
You
mentioned that spare parts for Springfield Armory XD pistols have been hard
to find.
That
was the case, up until recently. But now spare XD parts are starting
to show up at PistolGear.com.
Hover you cursor arrow over "Springfield XD" at the bottom of the
window that pops up . There should be a line that reads "XD Factory
Parts".
I just got a whole stack of [factory spare XD parts] in the mail last week.
There are still some critical parts
that
are missing, such as the extractor. I have done a lot of business with them
and talked to the owner Tom a good deal, good fast service and sounds like
a pretty good guy.
My first XD has over 40,000 rounds through it without cleaning and it functions perfectly. They are just as tough as a Glock, just
as easy to field strip,
but a bit more difficult to detail strip. Overall, it is a great pistol. -
Regards, - Bert M.
JWR Replies: That is great news! Consider the proviso that
I mentioned yesterday, withdrawn. I can now without reservation
endorse the XD pistol as a primary pistol for the long term survival firearms
batteries of SurvivalBlog readers.
At this point, I
am sorely tempted to sell off my stainless steel Colt M1911s and replace them
all with XD-45 pistols. I now recognize that I could get better reliability
and nearly twice as many guns for the money that I'd net from selling my used Colts!
(A stainless steel Colt Gold Cup .45 now sells for around $1,200. Yikes!) The
only remaining issue is that I have 35 years of training
invested
in
the M1911 platform. I will do some extensive testing of an XD-45 and let you
know what
I decide. Oh boy, am I tempted!
I must reiterate that Front Sight's "Get
a Gun" training
and gear package offer is available only for a limited time. I most
strongly
recommend that SurvivalBlog readers take Naish Piazza up on his offer
before he cuts off further enrollments. (They only have a limited quantity
of
guns and gear
available for this "package" deal.
This
is
a tremendously generous offer. As near as I can figure, Naish is offering the
package
at near his cost, as an inducement to get shooters to come and take their first
course
at Front Sight. Once someone takes a course there, they are "hooked" and
keep
coming back for more--the the training there is that good. The
Memsahib and I can vouch for that personally. We were astounded at the quality
of the training.
I learned more in four days at Front Sight than I had in the 35 years
of my previous pistol
shooting
experience. I'm not kidding.
OBTW, I
note that in addition to Springfield Armory factory spare parts, PistolGear.com also
sells a
wide range of aftermarket parts and accessories
for XDs. And anyone that needs more details on XD pistol should check out
the XD
Talk Forums.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Food Shortages at COSTCO and Sam's Club Stores »
Letter Re: Ammunition Reloading for Survival
James,
You might want to mention that reloading for semi-auto rifles requires
an extra measure of care. After sizing, cases should be checked with a Wilson
or Dillon case gauge to make sure they are
are sized correctly. Maximum overall case and cartridge lengths have to be
adhered to
[Clint McKee,] the owner of Fulton Armory is very "down" on reloading
for semi-auto battle rifles, and I believe most of the [bolt out of fully-locked
position]
Kabooms with AR-15 type rifles have occurred with reloaded ammo. While one
should be
very
careful
when
reloading ammunition of any type, one must be very, very careful when
reloading ammo for semi-auto rifles.
Thx, - "Walter Mitty"
« Two Letters Re: Recommendations on a Reliable AK and a Competent AK Trainer |Main| Letter Re: Fuel Rationing as a Deciding Factor in Activating a Remote Retreat »
Letter Re: The British Perspective on Food Storage and Preparedness
Dear Sir
The two articles linked below detail issues surrounding world food shortages
(and possible solutions) from a UK perspective.
I thought that they might be
of interest
to you. Certainly there is increasing concern here about rising food and drink
prices and its increasingly becoming part of the national conversation. It
seems there are now almost daily broadsheet newspaper articles on the subject
and I can categorically state that the UK is now experiencing similar trends
to the US, as identified by your readers. Although rationing has not
made the news yet, my father - who is a restaurateur - has discovered that
our five
large local wholesalers who sell exclusively to the catering industry have
run out of rice, cooking oil and other essential foodstuffs.
Families'
annual grocery bill rises by £800
and,
Food shortages: how will we feed the world?
Also, thank you for your wonderful web site. To be honest, I had not even
thought about survivalism when I first saw SurvivalBlog - I was just looking
for outdoor survival techniques for a bushcraft weekend. The more I have
read
the more convinced I am of the need for preparedness. I cannot afford a
retreat but your site has opened my eyes to the numerous other ways I can
keep my
family safe during any periods of potential unrest. It also gives me great
pleasure
to read about these issues from a Christian point of view. Although there
are many British Christians, it is sometimes difficult for us to be open
about
our faith. Our society is extremely tolerant of any and all faiths (as
it should be of course) but unfortunately our media and politicians frequently
marginalise
the very people that make this country democratic and free. God bless you
and thank you once again, - Paolo
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Three Letters Re: Hiding Things in Plain Sight »
Letter Re: Potatoes as a Survival Garden Crop
Sir,
It's important to maintain a variety of root and grain crops for use
as survival crops. Potatoes are easy to
grow, easy
to store and are nutritious enough to keep you healthy as a sole food
(if you eat 2/3 of them raw). It is true potatoes have to be grown every
year and that they are vulnerable to soil pathogens, but they can be grown
under
relatively low light, cool conditions, so why not take a small part
of
the harvest and raise them in a greenhouse through the winter with supplemental
light. A half 55-gal. drum filled with leaves would permit new potatoes
to be harvested occasionally without killing the plant. This is a way
to always
have some actively growing and experiment with low light conditions.
If volcanoes
start going off we could have several years of deep gloom. Corn and
wheat need lots of light, but potatoes need much less. A traditional storage
of potatoes is in buckets buried on their sides. This avoids consuming basement
space and also comprises a hidden food supply. You can dig up one bucket
at a time to bring into the basement.
In any case, we don't want to trust just one crop. Grains have the advantage
of storing longer, especially wheat. Old varieties of corn, wheat, etc.
are good, but I worry about GMO contamination.
How about some unusual crops: quinoa,
amaranth, wild rice, millet, and so forth? Some other root crops: sweet
potatoes (see: Sand
Hill Preservation Center) and Jerusalem Artichokes (see: Ronninger
Potato Farm). Does anyone know of a blog devoted to growing, storing,
processing
a wide
variety of crops from a self-sufficiency standpoint? This can be fun,
but
there is much to learn. Trading ideas and stock would be helpful. - MSB
JWR Replies: I strongly agree that there is inherent
safety in planting a wide variety of crops. In addition
to the sources that you mentioned, Seed
for Security provides heirloom variety (open pollinated/non-hybrid)
gardening seeds for beans, corn, pumpkins, and squash.
« Two Letters Re: Potatoes as a Survival Garden Crop |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Advice on Emergency Dentistry
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I have read and been positively influenced by your novel ["Patriots"].
I am now making provisions for difficult times. Can you recommend any links
towards obtaining
dentistry kit and basic dental instruction? Mainly interested in being able
to perform extraction safely. With Thanks and Sincerity, - Dan-O
JWR Replies: This topic has been covered briefly in the blog,
but is important enough that it deserves additional discussion. The most important
resource is the book "Where There is No Dentist", available
for free download from the Hesperian
Foundation
(But
I
recommend
getting a bound
hardcopy. Ditto for their book "Where There is No Doctor".
Used copies can often be found on Amazon.com for little more than the cost
of postage.) Back in July of 2007, I posted letters from Tip
in Las Vegas and
from "J"
the Dentist, that describe low cost sources for dental instruments. It
would also be wise to stock up on other dentistry supplies such as gauze, oil
of cloves, and so forth. Unless you are stranded in the back country, I do
not recommend that you put in temporary fillings under present day circumstances.
If a filling
leaks, it could cause an infection. However, in a genuine TEOTWAWKI situation,
temporary fillings may be your only alternative to suffice for weeks or even
months until
you
can
get
to a
qualified dentist. For this reason, you should stock up on temporary
filling material such as Cimpat, Tempanol, or Cavit. There are also temporary
filling materials packaged for the consumer market that contain very small
quantities (under brand names such as Dentek and Temparin), but the per-unit
cost is relatively
high. With
those, you are mostly paying for the packaging. Nor do I recommend "do
it yourself" extraction, except again in extremis. Without the
support of a crown or bridge, the gap left by an extraction can cause a chain
reaction,
as other teeth shift, to compensate. This can lead to a series of complications.
« Three Letters Re: Preparedness Considerations for College Students |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Raising Rabbits for Meat , by Pete C.
In most industrialized countries, including the United States, rabbits are
not commonly considered a meat animal. However, before a TEOTWAWKI situation
arises, small retreats may seriously want to consider raising rabbits as
a reliable source of meat to feed their family, to use as barter or charity.
Rabbits are fairly easy to raise which makes them especially adaptive for
small retreats (to include urban areas) where limited space for other livestock
-
cows, hogs, goats, chickens, etc., are just not practical. In addition, many
localities may not consider rabbits as live stock since they are often pets.
Thus they may be permitted where other animals would not be. If you keep the
area clean and the smell down, neighbors might not even know that you have
them.
Picking your breed:
Before you purchase your rabbits (or any animal), learn as much as you can
about keeping and raising them. Books, breeder magazines, and the internet
have a wealth of information on every topic imaginable. So before you jump
in, do your homework.
Once you decide to raise rabbits for meat, your most essential requirement
is that you get good quality breeding stock, from a reputable breeder and not
your local pet store. Purchase the best animals that you can afford, since
the quality of future litters will depend upon the parents. I recommend either
the Californian or the New Zealand White. Both types are by far the most popular
meat rabbits, of a medium-weight (8-11 pounds), have high milk production,
frequently procreate and have large litters.
Since rabbits are more suited for temperate or cool climates better than hot
ones, those living in warmer climates will need to purchase stock already accustomed
to such weather. Also, make sure that your stock rabbits you receive are clean,
alert, bright-eyed, with dry ears and nose, and no sores on the feet.
How many to start with?
As with many things, when we get started, we often make mistakes. For those
new to rabbits, the most common mistake is starting off with too many at once.
A good rule of thumb might be one buck (male) and three does (females). Usually
does are larger and can be distinguished by the presence of a dewlap, which
is flap of fur below the chin that she pulls to cover her nest during pregnancy.
Rabbit prices can vary considerably depending on quality. A young rabbit could
go for next to nothing (family just trying to get rid of a litter) to a few
hundred dollars (high quality show rabbit) – do not worry because you
want meat rabbits. Most of the time however, you will not find breeding age
rabbits, especially for meat. It just does not pay for a breeder to feed a
young rabbit to breeding age if he does not plan to use the rabbit for himself.
If you do find breeding age meat rabbits, they may be inferior or too old for
breeding. It is always best to start with newly weaned rabbits (eight weeks)
and care for them for the four months or so, so that they can become acclimated
to their new environment prior to breeding age (of six months). You should
be able to find decent quality newly weaned rabbits for as little as $15.00
each.
As you become comfortable and more accustomed to the work/time required and
what you just got into; should you then increase the size of your herd. Maybe
another buck (or two as insurance if something should happen to one of them)
and three more does, but no more than a one-to-five ratio.
Disease:
Rabbits are very hardy and have few diseases. However, since most rabbit diseases
cannot be cured, it is recommended that the diseased animal be disposed. Removal
of one sick animal can also save your entire stock, since disease can spread
quickly between the herd. Most rabbit diseases cannot be transmitted to humans.
Remember, cleanliness is the single biggest contributor to your stocks health.
Clean living space, quality feed and fresh water at all times go a long way.
Space & Housing:
Rabbits are also fairly easy to care for once you have established suitable
housing. It can be something very basic (wire-mesh hutch), since cold is no
real problem for rabbits. The hutch should however, provide protection from
drafts, rain and intense heat. Each rabbit should also have its own hutch (or
cage). This way if disease should hit an individual rabbit, it will not easily
spread and potentially wipe out your entire herd. Individual cages can be placed
in a garage, an empty shed or outdoors (these should be well protected from
the weather). Space is often not a problem because cages can be stacked on
one another. When comparing rabbits to larger meat animals (cattle, hogs, etc.,)
rabbits are much more efficient users of space.
Hutches should be approximately two feet by three feet and at least 18 - 24
inches in height with one inch mesh for the sides (allowing for adequate ventilation)
and half-inch mesh for the floors (so that droppings can fall through to the
cleaning tray) without catching the rabbits’ feet. Mount cages at a convenient
height that will make feeding, cleaning and maintenance easier for you. Clean
and disinfect the trays on a regular basis; scrubbing and disinfecting the
cages/trays between each litter.
If the hutches are outside, they should be placed in a partially shaded area.
The rabbits should always be given their choice between shade and sunshine.
If cages do not have shade, they will need to have a double roof in order to
help keep the rabbits cool. In addition, canvas or plastic flaps can be added
(to be unrolled) to cover the mesh when it rains. The does’ cage should
also have space for a nesting box – one foot high by one foot deep and
approximately twenty inches wide with a six inch high front panel to help keep
newborns inside. The males’ cage should be located between the does’ cages. The
Memsahib
Adds: I encourage rabbit owners to build (or buy) all metal cages.
Wood frames get urine-soaked and eventually become a health hazard. The only
wood included should be a resting board (to prevent the rabbits from getting
sore legs and feet, and those boards should be changed regularly. Also the
Memsahib strongly disagrees with the statement that the rabbits should be in
a partially shaded area. Rabbits are much more sensitive to heat than
cold. We have always located our pens on the north side of the house in full
shade. We
have never lost a rabbit to cold, but people who have purchased our rabbits
have lost rabbits to heat stroke mid-summer when they have not followed our
advice. When the temperature climbs above 90 degrees, we wet down the entire
rabbit area to provide cooling through evaporation. Some rabbit fanciers put
a block of ice in each pen. Others have fans to cool down the hutches. But
these last two methods will be useless, post-TEOTWAWKI.
Food & Water:
Specially prepared rabbit pellets provide the best diet for a breeding herd.
Pellets are nutritious, inexpensive (our local feed store sells 50 pound bags
for less then $12.50 each), store well and are easy to feed. Of the many different
types of pellets, you should get those that are small in size, placing them
in a hopper so as to avoid waste. Pellets can be supplemented with tender hay,
fresh grass clippings, vegetable greens / roots, apples, apple branches, and
weeds such as dandelions, which may be easily available. Just like us, rabbits
also require salt. Therefore, you may want to provide your herd salt licks.
To supplement the rabbit’s diet while giving them a bit more exercise
(to help maintain a healthy herd), place several rabbits in a movable wire
pen (approximately four or five feet square) and placing the pen throughout
your yard. As the rabbits eat the fresh grass and weeds to a comfortable height;
move the cage to another location. The yard is quietly cut and the rabbits
are fed with little effort at all.
As with any animal, clean fresh water is essential. Water bottles may be used
when temperatures are above freezing (otherwise metal pans or crockery bowls
may be used). Change the water on a daily basis. A doe and her litter may drink
as much as one gallon of water per day.
[In the Memsahib's experience mature does are too territorial to be placed
in such a confined area. This would work with littermates of the same sex before
they reached sexual maturity. The rabbits should all be put in the pen at the
same time.]
Mating & Birth:
Medium-weight rabbits such as the New Zealand White are ready to breed at about
six months. Signs to look for in females are restlessness, attempts to join
other rabbits, or a tendency to rub her head against the cage. Once a doe reaches
maturity, it is fertile almost continuously. Place the female in the male’s
cage; where mating should take place almost immediately. If it does not, bring
the female back to her own cage and try again within a few days. Never bring
the male to the female’s cage. She may see him as an intruder and attack
him out of fear.
Approximately twelve days after mating, check for pregnancy by feeling the
abdomen area just above the pelvis, trying to locate the small marble-shaped
embryos. Make sure that you handle the doe gently and use only light pressure.
If you feel nothing, check again in about a week; re-breed if necessary.
[Memsahib I think there is too much chance of injury palpitating the embryos.
Though does can mate at any time, conception is improved by mating them when
the does' vulva is swollen and dark. Careful observation will show this happens
on a three day cycle. If the doe is not receptive to the buck, she likely will
be the following day or the day after. Mating can take place in as little
as 15 seconds. But usually the buck and doe will chase each other around the
pen for a few minutes. If the doe grunts and stomps her hind feet place her
back in her own pen immediately. Be careful
that she does not bite. If the doe is receptive she will stop and slightly
raise her haunches. If the buck is successful he will suddenly fall off the
doe like he has been shot. Watch for this! It can happen very quickly. Return
the doe to her own pen. Mating will stimulate ovulation so be certain to bring
the doe back to the buck's pen for a repeat mating eight hours later. In this
way you will maximize the size of the litter. Using this method I have never
failed to get a doe bred.]
Birth ["kindling"] occurs within 30 days after conception, providing an average
number of seven young (called “kits”) per litter, but can range
from two to twelve. Since a doe can become pregnant, given the right conditions,
by
the simple act of mating; she can get pregnant soon after birth. For the animals
safety however, it is recommended that each doe have no more then three or
four litters per year. Make sure that you place the nesting box (with fresh
hay to insure warmth) at least five days before the young are due. The doe
will begin pulling fur from her dewlap to line and soften the nest as well.
Most likely, the litter will be born at night. Complications are rare when
the doe is in good condition and not over feed. Make sure not to disturbed
the new family for a day or two, so that the doe can calm. Then distract the
doe with some tempting food so that you can look inside the box; removing any
dead or deformed young. Be assured, the doe can take care of her young herself.
Therefore, no hand-raising or special equipment, such as incubators or brooders
will ever be needed.
Kits are born hairless with their eyes closed. Their fur will begin to grow
in by day five or six, after ten to twelve days the kits' eyes will open. At
the age of three weeks their mother will begin to wean them off milk (but will
continue to nurse them until they are eight weeks), during this time, the kits
will begin to eat hay and pellets becoming accustomed to the feed. Anytime
thereafter, from eight to twelve weeks old, they will be ready for butchering,
dressing out four to five pounds of meat each.
You may however also decide to keep a few of the new rabbits for more productivity
or to replace a buck or doe that you might have lost. Although rabbits can
live anywhere from seven to twelve years, having a few extra never hurts.
Slaughtering, skinning and butchering:
These are the tasks that no one really likes, but remember these animals are
providing food for your family. Again, there are many resources describing
the different methods employed and you are encouraged to read up on each. Each
task however, is fairly simple and straight forward. A skilled person can take
a rabbit from cage to fryer in under 30 minutes or less. Note: To facilitate
butchering, do not feed the rabbit for at least twenty-four hours prior to
slaughter. This will help to clear out the animal’s digestive system.
I will discuss one interesting method that was first given to me as instruction
of survival during my training at the U.S. Army Ranger School. It will cause
the animal the least amount of stress, it is considered quick, painless, and
humane.
Begin by holding the rabbit in your arms, petting it to make sure that it is
calm. After a few minutes, hold the animal by the hind legs with one hand,
placing your thumb of the other hand on the neck just behind the ears and your
fingers under the chin. Stretch the animal by pushing down with your thumb;
then raise the animal’s head with a quick movement to dislocate the neck.
The next stage may sound strange but will assist you in skinning the carcass.
The objective here is to quickly remove the animal’s pelt cleanly, neatly
and with minimum damage to either the hide. Since skinning is a skill that
requires experience; I will explain what I call the “pen method.” For
this, make sure that you have your black US Government Skillcraft pen disassembled
and on hand, as you will need it.
With your skinning knife, make your first incision small on one of the back
legs just below the hock (insert the blade under the skin so that only the
hide gets cut). Now take the pen placing the silver tip in the incision, between
the hide and flesh. With the half-pen sticking out, blow hard into the opening.
The forced in air will go between the hide and flesh separating the two, making
the rabbit the size of a basketball. (This same method can also be used on
chickens, producing a skinless bird, no plucking required).
Use your knife a second time to increase the first incision by cutting around
the rest of the leg. Do the same thing on the other leg. A cut is then made
along the inside of the back legs from one foot to the base of the tail; continue
the incision to the other leg. The hide can now be easily removed by pulling
it off like a sweater. There should be little resistance, however if there
is any, use the knife to free the hide. The last step is to free the pelt by
incising a circle around the neck. The pelt can also be saved to make clothes,
used for barter or even charity.
Once the skinning is complete, remove the head so that the carcass can bleed
out. Next remove the entrails. To do this, split the body open down the medium
line of the belly near the anus to the sternum. Special care should be taken
not to nick the gall bladder as this will taint the meat. The entrails are
then removed; the kidney and liver can be saved. The sternum is then cut and
the lungs, heart and trachea are removed (save the heart as well). Lastly,
cut the pubic bone and remove the rectum.
Wash the carcass with cold water, giving it a thorough rinsing to remove stray
fur and blood. Drop the carcass in a bucket of cold (ice) water for five minutes.
Repeat with a second bucket; helping to further cool the meat. This will complete
the bleeding process and making it easier to cut into pieces. Note: Do not
leave the carcass in the bucket for more than fifteen minutes since it will
absorb water.
Lastly, use your knife to divide the rabbit into serving pieces
(usually seven to nine cuts – high in protein/ low in fat). Never use
a cleaver so as to avoid leaving bone splinters. You can now bake, boil, fry,
roast, salt or smoke your rabbit as you wish. Review your survival cooking
library for delicious recipes, and enjoy.
Conclusion:
Since rabbits are fairly inexpensive, have few diseases, multiply quickly and
are easy to care for, it is recommended that small retreats with limited space
consider raising them as a reliable source of meat. Not only will you be able
to feed you family, but help others in need. Remember, as with any new skill,
do not wait until a TEOTWAWKI situation arises as the time to learn something
new. Good-luck and God Bless!
References:
American Federation of New Zealand Rabbit Breeders
American Rabbit Breeders Association
Professional Rabbit Meat Association
Angier, Bradford. "One Acre and Security". Willow Creek Press, 2000
« Letter Re: Food Riots in Haiti |Main| Note from JWR: »
The Precepts of My Survivalist Philosophy
In the past week I've had three newcomers to SurvivalBlog.com write and ask
me to summarize my world view. One of them asked: "I could spend days
looking through [the] archives of your [many months of] blog posts. But there
are hundreds
of them. Can you tell me where you stand, in just a page? What distinguishes
the "Rawlesian" philosophy from other [schools of] survivalist thought?"
I'll likely add a few items to this list as time goes on, but here is a general
summary of my precepts:
Modern Society is Increasingly Complex, Interdependent, and Fragile. With
each passing year, technology progresses and chains of interdependency lengthen.
In the past 30 years, chains of retail supply have grown longer and longer.
The food on your supermarket shelf does not come from local farmers. It often
comes from hundreds or even thousands of miles away. This has created an alarming
vulnerability to disruption. Simultaneously, global population is still increasing
in a near geometrical progression. At some point that must end, most likely
with a sudden and sharp drop in population. The lynchpin is the grid. Without
functioning power grids, modern industrial societies will collapse within weeks.
Civilization is Just a Thin Veneer. In the absence of law
an order, men quickly revert to savagery. As was illustrated by the rioting
and looting that accompanied disasters in the past three decades, the transition
from tranquility to absolute barbarism can occur overnight. People expect tomorrow
to be just like today, and they act accordingly. But then comes a unpredictable
disaster that catches the vast majority unprepared. The average American family
has four days worth of food on hand. When that food is gone, we'll soon see
the thin veneer stripped away.
People Run in Herds and Packs, but Both Follow Natural Lines of
Drift. Most
people are sheep ("sheeple").
A few are wolves that prey on others. But just a few of us are more like sheepdogs--we
think independently, and instead of
predation,
we are
geared toward protecting and helping others. People naturally follow natural lines
of drift--the path of least resistance. When the Schumer hits
the fan, 99% of urbanites will try to leave the cities on freeways. The highways
and freeways will soon resemble parking lots. This means that you need to be
prepared to both get
out of town ahead of the rush and to use lightly-traveled back roads.
Plan,
study and practice.
Lightly Populated Areas are Safer than High Density Areas. With
a few exceptions, less population means fewer problems. WTSHTF, there will
be a mass exodus from the cities. Think of it as an army that is spreading
out across a battlefield: The wider that
they
are
spread,
the less effective that they are. The inverse
square law hasn't been repealed.
Show Restraint, But Always Have Recourse to Lethal Force. My
father often told me, "It
is better to have a gun and not need it, than need a gun, and not have it." I
urge readers to use less than lethal means when safe and practicable, but at
times there is not a satisfactory substitute for well-aimed lead going down
range at high velocity.
There is Strength in Numbers. Rugged individualism is all
well and good, but it takes ore than one man to defend a retreat. Effective
retreat defense necessitates having at least two families to provide 24/7 perimeter
security. But of course every individual added means having another mouth to
feed. Absent having an unlimited budget and an infinite larder, this necessitates
striking a balance when deciding the size of a retreat group.
There are Moral Absolutes. The foundational morality
of the civilized world is best summarized in the Ten
Commandments. Moral relativism and secular humanism are slippery slopes.
The terminal moraine at the base of these slopes is a rubble pile consisting
of either despotism and pillage, or anarchy and the depths of depravity. I
believe
that
it takes both faith and friends to survive perilous times. For more background
on that, see my Prayer
page.
Racism Ignores Reason. People should be judged as individuals.
Anyone that make blanket statements about other races is ignorant that there
are both good and bad individuals in all groups. I have accepted The
Great Commission with sincerity."Go forth into all nations" means
exactly that:
all nations. OBTW, I feel grateful that SurvivalBlog is now read
in more than 100 countries. I have been given a bully pulpit,
and I intend to use it for good and edifying purposes.
Skills Beat Gadgets and Practicality Beats Style. The modern
world is full of pundits, poseurs, and Mall
Ninjas. Preparedness is not just about
accumulating a pile of stuff. You need practical skills, and those
only come with study, training, and practice.
Any
armchair
survivalist
can
buy a set
of stylish camouflage fatigues and an M4gery Carbine
encrusted with umpteen accessories. Style points should not be mistaken
for genuine skills and
practicality.
Plentiful Water and Good Soil are Crucial. Modern mechanized
farming, electrically pumped irrigation, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides
can make deserts bloom. But when the grid goes down, deserts and marginal farmland
will revert to their natural states. In my estimation, the most viable places
to survive in the midst of a long term societal collapse will be those with
reliable summer rains
and rich
topsoil.
Tangibles Trump Conceptuals. Modern fiat currencies are generally
accepted, but have essentially no backing. Because they are largely a byproduct
of interest bearing debt, modern currencies are destined to inflation. In
the long run, inflation dooms fiat
currencies to collapse. The majority of
your assets should be invested in
productive farm land and other tangibles such as useful hand tools. Only after
you have your key logistics squared away, anything extra should
be invested in silver and gold.
Governments Tend to Expand their Power to the Point that They Do Harm. In
SurvivalBlog, I often warn of the insidious tyranny of the Nanny
State. If
the state where you live becomes oppressive, then don't hesitate to relocate.
Vote with your feet!
There is Value in Redundancy. A common saying of my
readers is: "Two
is one, and one is none." You must be prepared
to provide for your family in a protracted period of societal disruption. That
means storing up all of the essential "beans, bullets, and Band-Aids" in quantity.
If commerce is disrupted by a disaster, at least in the short term you will
only have your own logistics to fall back on. The more that you have stored,
the
more
that
you
will have
available for barter and charity.
A Deep Larder is Essential. Food storage is one of the key
preparations that I recommend. Even if you have a fantastic self-sufficient
garden and pasture ground, you must always have food storage that you can fall
back on in the event that your crops fail due to drought, disease, or infestation.
Tools Without Training Are Almost Useless. Owning a gun doesn't
make someone a "shooter" any more than owning a surfboard makes someone a surfer.
With proper training and practice, you will be miles ahead of the average citizen.
Get advanced medical
training. Get the best firearms
training that you can afford. Learn about amateur radio from your local
affiliated ARRL club.
Practice raising a vegetable garden each summer. Some skills are only perfected
over
a period
of years.
Old Technologies are Appropriate Technologies. In
the event of a societal collapse, 19th Century (or earlier) technologies such
as a the blacksmith's forge, the treadle sewing machine, and the horse-drawn
plow
will be
far easier
to re-construct than modern technologies.
Charity is a Moral Imperative. As a Christian, I feel morally
obligated to assist others that are less fortunate. Following the Old Testament
laws of Tzedakah (charity
and tithing), I believe that my responsibility begins with my immediate family
and expands in successive rings to supporting
my immediate
neighborhood
and
church, to my
community, and beyond, as resources allow. In short, my philosophy is to "give
until it hurts" in times of disaster.
Buy Life Assurance, not Life Insurance. Self-sufficiency
and self-reliance are many-faceted. You need to systematically provide for
Water, Food, Shelter, Fuel, First Aid,
Commo,
and, if need be, the tools to enforce Rule
308.
Live at Your Retreat Year-Round. If your financial and family
circumstances allow it, I strongly recommend that you relocate
to a safe area and live there year-round. This has several advantages,
most notably that will prevent burglary of your retreat logistics and
allow you to regularly
tend to gardens, orchards, and livestock. It will also remove the stress of
timing a "Get Out of Dodge" trip at the11th hour.
If circumstances dictate that you can't live at your retreat year round, then
at least have
a caretaker and stock the vast majority of your logistics in advance, since
you may only have one trip there before roads are impassable.
Exploit Force Multipliers. Night vision gear, intrusion
detection sensors, and radio communications equipment are key force
multipliers. Because
these use high technology they cannot be depended upon in a long term collapse,
but in the short term, they can provide a big advantage. Some low technologies
like barbed wire and defensive road cables also provide advantages and can
last for several decades.
Invest Your Sweat Equity. Even if some of
you have a millionaire's budget, you need to learn how to do things for yourself,
and
be willing to get your hands dirty. In a societal collapse, the division of
labor will be reduced tremendously. Odds are that the only "skilled craftsmen" available
to build a shed, mend a fence, shuck corn, repair an engine, or pitch manure
will be you.and
your family. A byproduct of sweat equity is muscle tone and proper body weight.
Hiring someone to deliver three cords of firewood is a far cry from
felling, cutting, hauling, splitting, and stacking it yourself.
Choose Your Friends Wisely. Associate yourself with skilled
doers, not "talkers." Seek out people that share your
outlook and morality. Living in close confines with other families is sure
to cause friction but that will be minimized if you share a common religion
and norms of behavior.You can't learn every skill yourself. Assemble a team
that
includes members with medical knowledge, tactical skills, electronics experience,
and traditional practical skills.
There is No Substitute for Mass. Mass stops bullets. Mass
stops gamma radiation. Mass stops (or at least slows down ) bad guys from entering
a home and depriving its residents of life and property. Sandbags are cheap,
so buy plenty of them. When planning your retreat house, think: medieval
castle.
(See the SurvivalBlog Archives for the many articles and letters on Retreat
Architecture.)
Always Have a Plan B and a Plan C. Regardless of your pet
scenario and your personal grand plan of survival, you need to be flexible
and adaptable. Situations and circumstances change. Always keep a G.O.O.D. kit
handy, even if you are fortunate enough to live at your retreat year-round.
Be Frugal. I grew up in a family that still remembered both
our pioneer history and the more recent lessons of the Great Depression. One
of our family mottos is: "Use
it up, wear it out, make do, or do without."
Some Things are Worth Fighting For. I encourage my readers
to avoid trouble, most importantly via relocation to safe areas where trouble
is unlikely to come to visit. But there may come an unavoidable day that you
have
to
make a stand to defend your own family or your neighbors. Further, if you value
your liberty, then be prepared to fight for it, both for yourself and for
the sake
of
your progeny.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Food Riots in Haiti »
Letter Re: The Survivor Mindset
Dear Mr. Rawles;
I love the SurvivalBlog. It is fun and interesting, yet it is even more, it
is educational! I believe that a lot of people are over looking the biggest
part
of the equation
when it comes to survival. It is mindset. When going thru [US Army] Ranger
school I knew from the start there was no way I was going to quit. I had the
mindset
they
could “DQ” [(disqualify)] me and send me packing but I was not
quitting. In a true survival setting one has to know in his heart and
mind he is going
try
to make it at all cost.
I am a Christian, a true believer of God’s saving
grace, yet when the Schumer hits
the fan I am going to survive or die trying. I think a lot of people need to
re-evaluate their thinking about a time of
total collapse. At that point, you will have to become good spirited yet know
and believe that you will do what it takes to survive. There are going to be
cold nights, days of being in the rain watching your home, and sweating because
there is no air conditioning. You can provide charity and help to people you
truly trust. I know that sounds selfish but it isn’t. If you start to
give food and other goods away [to strangers] you become a target and the thieves
will come! If you decide to take them to a church then someone at that church
is
going
to know you had it and again you will become a target. When people become desperate
they will do anything. I hope folks realize that when these times come, a trip
to town will be a heart attack event, because driving or walking down a road
and not having proper recon is a nightmare waiting to happen.
Another issue I would like to make is bugging out. If you think you are going
to bug out after the Schumer hits the fan, then you are full of Schumer!
When it hits, there is going to be widespread panic and martial law will follow.
Therefore
moving is going to be a major problem. I think if you are concerned enough
now to have a retreat, then move to it now. I live in semi-rural
North Carolina and I would love to be in Montana but it ain’t happening!
Therefore my family has decided to square ourselves away and hunker down in
place. People
need to realize that they don’t want to be a refugee! That can not be
stated loud and hard enough. Most people would take two or three days to really
be ready to leave home, if they could do it that quickly. In two or three days
a lot can happen! The roads would be clogged, fuel inventories depleted, grocery
stores barren, and then the nightmare of trying to avoid the military and police
enforcing the martial law rules. You would be either stuck at home or out in
the open with no where to go. I am totally serious, either go now or prepare
to stay in place.
Be physically and mentally tough. The hard times will be like nothing you can
imagine unless you have been to a warring third world country. In those times
everything will matter, you will see the strong survive and the rest dwindle
away. With My Best Regards, - A.F. in North Carolina
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Getting from Point A to Point B, by E.I.D.
You’ve got your Bug Out Bags (BOBs) all packed. You’ve prepped
your house for
whatever reason you’re leaving. You’ve made contact with what family
you could, and you trust the rest to meet you at your designated meeting place,
whether it’s your retreat or just a spot along the way where your two paths
converge. Everything is set. Or is it? Points A and B are ready, but how do you
plan to make the trek between them?
Walking is always an option, but probably a last resort. Most people aren’t
in good enough shape to walk ten miles, let alone 100 and over the course of
a few days. Cramps and blisters become unbearable, and joints seize up. Adverse
weather, whether hot or cold, can become lethal. Other humans (travelers, police,
military) can be dangers, and so can feral and wild animals. Not to mention,
you can only bring what you can carry. Walk if you must, but don’t let
it be plan A. In fact, keep it at plan D or further.
A bike is a good option, but again, requires some level of fitness. Bikes can
be fitted with cargo containers on the front and back (as well as new packs that
strap to the frame), and thus allow you to carry more than you could on foot.
However, a bike presents a new group of possible problems that must be addressed,
and therefore you should always attach the following to your bike frame or in
an attached pack or basket: a tire pump (foot pumps are best as they are smaller),
a tire patch-kit, a small can of leak-stop, and tools to reset the chain should
it pop loose. Reflectors and a headlight for your bike is a must for night-riding,
and some are available that are powered by your pedaling, much like a hand-cranked
flashlight. Otherwise, pack extra batteries. There are solid foam rubber inner
tubes that will eliminate your need for a patch kit, but there are many mixed
reviews on these tubes, because they tend to also decrease energy efficiency.
A mountain bike will allow you to ride off-road should the need arise, but again,
you lose energy efficiency over a road bike. If you’re in excellent shape,
efficiency might not be as big an issue for you – likewise if you’re
not too far from your retreat. Take all this into consideration. A bike with
multiple gears is better for energy efficiency, but it also presents more moving
parts which can break along the way. To maximize your chances of making it on
a bike, fitting your bike with a small gasoline powered engine is best.
These small gasoline engines turn your bike into a virtual moped. You get up
to speed by pedaling and then engage the engine. These engines can get up to
250 miles per gallon going 25 mph on flat road. Unfortunately, they may only
hold a gallon of gas. However, you can easily fit a 2 gallon jerry can (or jug,
if you’re in a hurry) of gasoline in the back basket of your bike, and
refill along the way, if your destination is further than 250 miles. You might
say “motorcycles get good miles per gallon too” and you would be
right, but they also require a lot more investment and maintenance than a bike,
and aren’t as easily strapped to the back of a larger vehicle. If you’re
considering buying one, ask yourself ̶
