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Letter Re: Infrared Imaging Countermeasures
Mr. Rawles,
There are several proven, low cost techniques that can be used against thermal/infrared imagers. But none of them last an extended period of time. While they are not fool-proof they certainly do work well enough to frustrate the US military in Afghanistan.
The first method being used is for men to lay down in a small depression in the ground and cover themselves with a heavy wool blanket every time they hear an engine overhead -- be it a helicopter or the lawn-mower whine of a drone. This technique is well documented based on visual surveillance of groups of Afghans. All they did was to prop up the edges of the blanket with twigs to let their body heat escape around the edges of the blanket. This disrupts the pattern of the human body such that there is a warm spot but it does not look anything like a person.
A step up from this is to use one of the Space Blankets
available on the market to do the same thing. They reflect heat right? If you have one of the heavier ones laminated to a ground cloth they can be used over and over again. In fact there is a poncho version of the space blanket that is very effective for this purpose even if you are moving about.
For shelter areas you can use mass (think of adobe houses) to diffuse the heat signature such that while the whole house will glow a bit it is impossible to see inside the house. Similar methods can be used in the field. For example, when digging a fighting position always use overhead cover if possible and pack the overhead cover with dirt or stones. This, combined with the use of blankets or tarps to screen the "windows" will render most thermal imagers unable to track you.
Finally there is always deception. In one exercise with a law enforcement team, we created a large number of "false" positives for them to track using small candles and Mylar balloons. Since aluminumized Mylar is the primary component in the space blankets, if you direct a small heat source onto the exterior surface, the whole surface will reflect the heat source and appear to be a large heat signature. (The aluminum can also be used to fool radar -- the balloons can be strung in a line so many feet or inches apart -- and as long as that distance apart is close to the wavelength of the radar beam the balloons appear to be one large solid target. I found this out many years ago when I was living very close to the largest helicopter base in the Argentine army just outside Rafael Castillo. We could float a string of balloons and get an almost immediate response ...)
Another trick is to place a small candle (120 hour candles
work well for this) under a piece of metal about the size of a hubcap or 20 gallon drum lid -- as the candle burns it heats the entire surface without any hot spots but rather fairly even heating. To the poor chap looking through the thermal imaging gear now sees a heat source that is about the same size as a person's head and is not moving the way an animal would when a helicopter is overhead. So it has to be checked out.
Then there is my favorite one. Simply lay down to take your nap amongst a herd of goats or a flock of sheep. - Dr. D.
JWR Adds: Another method of infrared camouflage is to encamp in an area with numerous natural hot springs and pools. Since these are often associated with natural salt licks, these areas tend to attract wild game. Thus, not only will the hot springs themselves create distractions, but so will any deer (and similar-sized hoofed animals) that are in the area.
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A Wilderness Hide Location for a Planned Evacuation, by J.I.R.
A period of lawlessness may prevail after any major interruption of services. We all know this and try to plan. But have we really realistically faced what this means? Once the food trucks stop arriving, US cities and towns have less than a week before food riots and general looting begins. If things get really bad, there are going to be literally millions of people starving, thirsty and sick, willing to do whatever it takes to survive. The simple math points to a huge die-off unless the government can maintain control and re-institute some emergency measures. In the worst case scenarios, almost any preparations you can make seem woefully inadequate. The challenge may come down to surviving the die-off and not becoming one of the unmarked graves.
Face facts, this throng of hungry, desperate people are going to be heavily armed, just like you. Many of them are going to have military and law enforcement experience. Also, remember that every piece of military equipment in the government's arsenal is going to be owned and used by someone. Those machineguns and rocket launchers and mortars are not going to just evaporate. [JWR Adds: It is noteworthy that with very few exceptions, National Guard and Reserve units have not stored live ammo at their local armories since the 1960s. Looters might eventually cut their way in to arms room vaults, and they'll indeed find mortars, machineguns, and grenade launchers, but not mortar rounds, grenades, or belts of machinegun ammo. Their ammo is stored only at active duty installation Ammo Supply Points (ASPs).] The point is, the teeming population is not just going to die off quietly and go away until all of the food they can locate is gone.
Whether these hungry people come at you as small gangs of thugs or as ad-hoc governments equipped with arm-bands, they are going to systematically look for food and supplies. If you are anywhere near a population center, you are going to be looted and perhaps killed. No matter how many buckets of nitrogen packed wheat you have cleverly stored in your basement, you are almost certainly going to lose it all when the local "committee" searches your house for "contraband" or "hoarding".
Single family dwelling homes and apartments without power are nothing more than inconveniently located caves. They are impossible to hide and very difficult to defend. Any determined group of raiders (or whomever) are going to pick your bones if you try to "Custer" inside a modern American home. The very fact that you are living there will be proof that you have something they want. If it looks deserted, they will still search the place thoroughly looking for food. When that happens, you will either have to fight to keep your possessions or you will have to evacuate or "bug out". Where will you go? What will you need to carry? Most "Bug out Bag" plans that I have seen don't measure up. A planned evacuation is a lot better than a "grab stuff and go" emergency. Your current home can be expendable if you plan for it.
For folks with military training, or the willingness to learn, a compromise can be to set up a semi-mobile encampment. This concept is based on a Long Range Surveillance (LRS) "Hide site". Sort of a patrol base for extended stay. For an explanation, see the Wikipedia page on LRS. Most LRS hide sites are used for a maximum of two weeks, but their occupancy can be extended for months with additional supplies. If you use your head setting up a hide site, you can avoid having to fight to keep your things. It's much better to hide than fight. Setting up a site is relatively simple if you follow sound tactical principles. With a little luck and discipline, you can stay invisible for extended periods.
The reference document for LRS hide sites is US Army FM-7-93. Appendix E contains a lot of good source material. While most of this field manual will not be appropriate for simple survival, it contains a lot of good ideas if you have no experience and have never considered this topic. You don't have to create a site as extreme as the FM describes to have a survivable hide site.
The location you select is the most important factor. Ideally, you need a patch of wilderness that offers nothing that anyone wants. Parks and national forest lands are good choices. The only resources there are firewood and perhaps game animals. If you can find an area that has neither of these, you are better off still. The point is this: Find a place where nobody is going to go looking for something they need. Desperate people are not going to walk randomly, they are going to drive if they can and walk if they must. They are going to follow lines of communication that have a reasonable chance of taking them to resources. If you can find a place that is isolated away from roads and undeveloped, you are half way there.
You need to choose an area within half a tank of gas to your home, but a mile or so from the nearest road or anything most people would want. It needs to be close enough to a creek to carry water and as rough and remote as you can find. At such a site, you could conceivably remain for months without being detected. With a little planning, you can build a hide site in a matter of hours and it will be stronger tactically than any normal dwelling. Plus you can make it as undetectable as your imagination and discipline will let you.
If you already have a well stocked retreat or working farm with dozens of acres, consider pre-positioning most of your goods in hidden caches on your own property, and setting up a hide site in advance. When (not if) your retreat is attacked, you will have someplace to run and supplies that remain available. You can even use your existing well or water supply if you plan well. Remember, if you make your retreat too comfortable, someone may take it from you and keep it. Try to make it look like any other house without water or power and looters will probably just move on once they sack it. You can move back in later and tidy up the mess instead of having to fight. Hide your comforts and supplies well.
I recommend "digging in" three different sites, within rifle range of each other, all of them concealed and preferably booby-trapped. (LRS teams always carry a lot of mechanicals, like Claymore mines. Finding them is hazardous to your health and killing them is even harder). The basic hide site is low and hidden. Any tarps you use must be as close to ground level as possible and well hidden from view by covering them with dirt and debris. Setting up inside stands of scrub brush is a common tactic. Digging most of it underground is also common. The goal is to make the site as invisible as you can make it, even from close range. You want a casual intruder to walk right by it without noticing anything.
1st site. A kitchen area/living area/kill zone with fighting positions dug-in for emergencies. Make it as hard to find as you are able. Use brush and natural terrain features to mask it from casual view. If attacked or discovered, the guard post (described below) will be your ace in the hole. If your site is discovered or someone approaches, dive for cover and wait them out. If your kitchen area remains undiscovered, all is well, but If you absolutely have to fight, being dug in with a real fighting position will give you a major edge and your guard post will come as a very nasty surprise.
2nd site. A Guard post/sleeping area/fighting position well hidden. It should overwatch both other sites and have a good field of view covering likely avenues of approach. These two sites should be able to provide supporting fire for each other. You also need to provide a covered egress route of some kind in case you have to evacuate the site. Radios to communicate between fighting positions are very handy and so are night optical devices of all kinds. During hours of activity, this site remains manned by a guard with a rifle. At night it is the only manned site. One person stays on guard and everyone else can sack out.
3rd (or more) sites. A cache for most of your stores within rifle range but completely concealed. If you lose your entire hide site, you can always double back in a few days and pick up your stuff. The third cache is a life saver if you really have to run for it. This site should be completely undetectable. That means buried and carefully camouflaged. A good reference for establishing a cache is Army TC 31-29/A
A Fourth site for the truck(s) and other vehicles should be established about a mile away. Make your vehicles look abandoned and drain them of fuel. Make no mistake, they really are abandoned. You may be able to recover them, but you will probably lose them. Once you occupy your main site, you must not keep visiting your vehicles. [JWR Adds: It doesn't take long to remove their batteries. This further disables the vehicles to discourage theft, and those batteries could come in handy. And even more elaborate measure os putting vehicles up on blocks and removing their wheels to hide them separately. That will truly make them look abandoned, and make it very difficult for the vehicles to be stolen. ]
You should be able to carry water to the kitchen area and purify it, do all your cooking and eating and living there. Generally do anything there that is hard to hide. Sleep off-site at the sleeping area in case the main base is discovered and attacked at night. If you have at least three adults, you can keep a guard at all times and still get all the chores done. Fewer people means you will only occupy your sleeping site at night. Six or more adults would be needed to make a hide site into a fortress, so you are depending on stealth for most of your protection. If you are alone, stealth is all you really have.
Cover your tracks. Don't wear a path between your sites. You don't want discovery of one site to lead to discovery of the others. This goes double for your water source. There should be no way to tell someone is using the creek, well or pond. This takes a lot of discipline.
Your kitchen area is the hardest to hide. Smoke from cooking fires is the biggest danger. You can avoid detection by using a propane or other type of cooking stove and cooking only non-smelly foods. (Odor from grilling meat can carry for miles, but simmering cracked wheat is not so bad.) If you plan to cook something smelly, consider cooking it up to a mile away from your hide site to avoid detection. In any case, no food should be eaten or prepared in the sleeping area. The sleeping area and guard post must remain undetectable at all times.
If the kitchen area is discovered while you are sleeping, you can either choose to fight or give them the kitchen. You may be able to lay low and avoid detection even if a whole gang shows up and discovers your kitchen/living area. They will only get a portion of your stocks and everybody gets to live another day. If you have access to Claymore mines and/or M16 bounding mines, you can probably use the kitchen as a kill zone and wipe out many times your number in bad guys, but remember, stealth is your biggest defense and any fighting entails a lot of risk.
Strangers that stumble upon your site can be dealt with in several ways. Simply hiding is a good approach if you can pull it off. If hiding is out, you will either have to talk to them or fight. If they are hunters and seem fairly well provisioned, be friendly and show them as little of your site as possible. Under no circumstances, show them your main food cache. Everyone has limits, so don't tempt them. They should not see anything they are willing to fight to possess. A couple of buckets of food are probably not worth getting shot over. If they are a small group and desperate, consider adopting them. Most people are pretty decent and if they see a good reason to team with you, they will do it. If you are all trying to survive and they see you as an ally, you are probably fairly safe. The added security of a few extra people could be a real plus. If your site has been compromised, remember, you can always move. You can even leave your cache in place and simply move your other two sites a couple of miles and you may be safe again.
You will need some supplies and equipment to hide in relative comfort. The suggested bug out bag for this scenario is a whole pickup truck load of stuff: Even if you wind up going to a shelter or a community center, you won't be showing up hungry with your hand out.
Weapons: In order to fight realistically, you will need a good rifle and of course ammunition for anyone in the group with skill. I personally prefer an old scoped Ishapore 2A1 [Enfiield] chambered in 7.62mm NATO, but almost anything will do as long as it is robust and you are skilled with it. Also a pump shotgun with lots of buckshot can be a real killer in a night fight. Night sights of some kind on the rifle are really useful. Modern thermal sights can be devastating. With luck and discipline you won't ever need to shoot anything, but having any firearm is much better than having none at all, and a rifle always beats a pistol at long range.)
An extra rifles to cache, with ammo, might be handy if you can keep them weatherproof.
Lots of buckets of storage food (Keep it all cached except one or two buckets at a time). 10 or more 5 gallon buckets of food per person is not excessive. The more food you have with you, the longer you can stay.
A case of MREs for each person, stored in the sleeping area. Also, your packs need to be wherever you are at all times. Remember to store water in the sleeping area. More than you think you need.
A main kitchen and backup stuff to keep cached. (in case you lose the kitchen).
When you are setting up your site, you will have to make multiple trips from the vehicles, but the more food you have, the longer you can stay hidden. Multiple caches can be strung out along an escape route or the route back to the trucks. Also, you will need basic camping gear and water purification, field sanitation supplies etc.
For each adult:
Backpack with frame : This is your last ditch bag and should be near you at all times.
Water filter (PUR backpack model) is a good one
polar pure Iodine crystals in every pack. They are light, cheap and essential.
Several plastic garbage bags. These have multiple uses. You can't have too many.
2 x canteens with cups. This allow you to carry some water and cook if you must.
6 x MRE in the pack (12 more at the cache or sleeping site)
P38 can opener
2 butane lighters
2 camping candles or other heat source
Box of self striking fire starters are sometimes handy
* LED light and spare batteries (rechargeable) can come in handy
*Someone should carry a 4 watt solar battery charger. These are important to have along [to charge batteries for night vision, communications, and intrusion detection gear.]
Generator radio AM/FM/Weather (with cell phone charger and LED light) This is a critical piece of equipment, so have two of them, but be careful not to play it out loud. Ear buds or head sets will keep you from giving your site away. Boredom is your biggest enemy and a radio can be a great way to stay entertained and silent [when not on a watch shift.]
A good sleeping bag is a must. It's cold underground or when you aren't moving.
Insulating ground pad is also a must.
1 emergency blanket/poncho
1 poncho liner (Army. Great piece of gear!)
1 x large drop cloth and a roll of heavy plastic are handy for underground living.
1 hat and wool glove inserts
1 set of thermal underwear (tops and bottoms)
An extra set of clothing. BDUs or other outdoor wear and a spare pair of boots (Clothing can be rolled up inside a plastic sheet and put into a laundry bag and carried outside the pack). Remember, extra socks and underwear are always needed!
Ka-Bar sheath knife (7 inch) or equivalent.
Leatherman Multitool or a Swiss army knife
Small machete (at least one in the group is very handy and has multiple uses).
Medical Stuff (I recommend keeping this with your last ditch bag)
Spare eyeglasses if needed
First Aid Kit for minor wounds
sewing kit
aspirin
Imodium for emergency treatment of diarrhea (packets of salts are even better)
iodine swabs
burn cream (not much is needed, but if you need it you will be glad you have it)
Anbesol
Chap stick or petroleum jelly
white tape
emergency blanket (cheap is fine)
Scalpels or Razor blades
Safety pins
Large bandages (2 or 3 can be life savers if someone is shot)
Dental floss
hand sanitizer
Insect Repellant
small lock blade knife
tweezers
Prescription medication
ID cards, credit cards, cash on hand
A pistol of some kind. I highly recommend the Ruger SP101 in .357 Magnum and a couple of speed loaders.
Other stuff to load in your truck or large car:
A bicycle! You can load a lot of stuff on a bicycle and cut down on the number of trips required from the vehicles to the hide site. Bike tracks are a giveaway, so make sure they start at least 25 meters from your vehicles and erase them as well as possible after the last trip. Whatever you use, be prepared and willing to haul everything by hand from your vehicles to the site. Without a bike or dolly, its going to require something like 12 trips. You can improve on this by using a cargo carrier of some kind. Vary your route between the vehicle and hide site to minimize your tracks. You might want to unload and then move your vehicles to avoid anyone tracking you.
Shovel, crosscut saw, axe or hatchet and pick axe (army E tools are light, but not as good as full size tools). All tools should be loaded in a bag that you can sling or tie to a bike.
100 ft roll of repelling rope may be very handy. 550 cord is also handy.
A roll of wire for rigging noise makers and rigging brush and shelter
Food: You will want 10 or 11 buckets for each member of your group:
6 buckets of wheat, 2 buckets of beans and 4 gallons of oil.
2 buckets of rice (and a bucket of sugar if you wish). and 2 pounds of salt. Spices and bullion are
very nice to have, but beware of odors!
This will be the bulk of your provisions and will weigh something like 400 pounds per person! Don't begrudge the weight. It will get lighter soon enough.
*24 rolls of toilet paper (in a plastic bag) You will miss this if you don't have any.
At least one grain mill. Two is much better. You can hide the extr aone in your cache.
(Split between 2 Duffel bags per 2 people): (this is your kitchen/living area stuff)
24 x MRE
Sterno stove + large candle heater in a can (12 face-inches of wick makes a lot of heat)
Fuel (10lb, paraffin to recharge cooker. Each pound will burn several hours with care )
If you are going to burn wood for fuel, use a hobo stove to minimize smoke and light.
4 pots. (2 for cooking, 1 for cleaning and one left with the food cache.)
A dutch oven is really handy. You won't regret the weight long when you cook with it
Tea, Coffee, Sugar, Gatorade powder
Tobacco (2 x 6 oz cans with rolling papers) (for those with a monkey on their backs)
Water, 6 liters (12 x 1/2 liter plastic bottles)
plastic bags. 20 heavy trash liners and 20 freezer storage bags
Spare batteries (12 x AA. Mostly for charity)
Soap, washcloth and towels (2 large ones)
4 large Poly Tarps (camo) and 550 chord
Fem pads (for that time of month. Include at least one bag per female per month)
Deck of cards
Bible and other reading material. Boredom will get you killed. Depression will too.
It might be worth the weight to carry a lot of books. Reading is a quiet activity and could keep you from going out of your mind!
In a suitcase or preferably another bucket that's waterproof (keep in the sleeping area.): Hat and wool glove inserts for each person. Extra clothing is good to have.
A wool sweater and outer cold weather gear. Blankets will be handy.
If you can manage to set up a hide site with these few essentials without anyone observing you, you can probably stay hidden for up to 200 days with care. That six month breather will allow you ample time to assess the conditions of the local area and plan your next move. More importantly, if a major population die-off is going on, a well stocked hide site will allow you to miss most of it. Hiding outdoors is not easy or comfortable, but it may be your best way to keep breathing.
[JWR Adds: Even the best defended retreat can't expect to hold out against a determined and well-equipped fighting force. If you hear that the muy malo hombres (or a nearby polity with kleptomaniacal intent) is heading up the road, abandoning your retreat may be your only choice.
As I have mentioned time and again in SurvivalBlog, pre-positioning supplies at your retreat is essential. You will not have time to pack. If you are fortunate, you will have time to put on your shoes. Having a hide prepared a half day's hike from your retreat, with food and gear already there, means you could avoid having to choose between an untenable fight and starving in the woods. Having a hide prepared could give you a couple weeks in safety to see what develops. You could then return to (or retake) your retreat, or abandon the area entirely, at your discretion.]
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From David in Israel: Off Grid Alternatives to Utility-Supplied Electricity
James
One of the most troubling things I see when speaking to people about going off grid is how badly they want to keep all of their electrical appliances and just spend many thousands of dollars on a battery bank more appropriate for a U-boat and solar cells or generators to keep them topped off. Having had a minor role in a micro-satellite system design proposal one thing you learn when confronted by limited power supply is to either economize or do without.
The appliances you own for on grid use are not efficient. They are built to be inexpensive or if you are better off durable, even the fancy electrical appliances out of Europe with the Energy Star are in reality a big waste of power once you are paying by the off grid watt for solar panels and battery banks. There is no reason a normal family shouldn't consider an off grid option for their home. Even in a national emergency and societal breakdown it is very rare for supplies of diesel fuel, gasoline, kerosene, and LP gas to be unavailable for long periods at some price.
Dryer - Enemy number one especially in a large family, a solar clothes dryer is under $5 at nearly every hardware store, ask for a clothesline. Folding indoor drying racks are very popular in Israel. Even in winter indoor drying can be assisted by using a fan, it will also keep the air humidified. After trying the above and finding you just can't make it there are LP gas heated clothes dryers, but these still need mains power for the drum motor.
Oven/Stovetop - There is no reason to use electrical power for cooking. Excellent caterer grade ovens and stoves are available at most appliance stores which run totally on gas. Some may use an electrical ignition or thermostat but nearly all can be retrofitted either with a piezoelectric (no battery needed) spark starter or can just be lit with a match avoiding the danger of the old style pilot light since they now are equipped with a thermal safety. Most people find they actually prefer gas once they are used to it as it is a more even heat. We have had good success using MSR camping kerosene burners when the gas to our home was unavailable for a few weeks.
Hot Water - Nearly any off grid home will benefit from the addition of a solar collector in addition to a well-insulated gas water heater. Think about turning down the thermostat or using a secondary gas instant heating system and low flow shower heads to stretch your hot water supply.
Heating - Most stores and contractors can provide a wide variety of wood, pellet, gas, kerosene, or oil-fueled stoves and furnaces and space heaters. Insulation is key to keeping your alternative heat system from breaking your bank account.
Power Tools - Some older large shop tools can be powered by a PTO shaft or belt system. The possibilities from a gas motor, to steam, to hydro and beyond are limited only by your imagination.
Water pressure - In many areas there is not enough wind for a windmill to keep a water tower full so an electrical or gas pump might work better once all factors are evaluated. If your retreat is located below the summit of the hill it would probably be much easier to install a pool or cistern on the summit to provide pressure for firefighting operations even if your pump is destroyed, for every foot of elevation .433 pounds of water pressure is required for filling your tower or cistern and this pressure is returned when water is used in your home or property. Anyone living in a wilderness area should have in addition to a gravity fed water system of at least 1,500 gallons and a 300 gpm capacity, and at least one portable reservoir. There are portable swimming pools that are the same as US Forest Service uses for firefighting, and a gas powered portable pump for emergency firefighting. Descending water can be run reverse through some pumps generating electricity making it a very effective and inexpensive way to store electrical power once your battery banks are full.
Refrigeration - Most readers if their inventory their refrigerator will find mostly leftovers or things which actually will last until consumption without refrigeration. There are high quality kerosene and LP gas powered absorption refrigerators, some with secondary mains power optional, available from a few suppliers even in the US.
For those with the skills required to build and test a system which can withstand 250 psi anhydrous ammonia, copying the old Crosley Icy-Ball chest refrigerator-freezer is a thrifty option. Since anti-drug manufacturing laws make obtaining anhydrous ammonia difficult, an icy-ball can be built with drains on the absorptive water side to self distill ammonia from cleaning solution. A warning: Ammonia is a dangerous respiratory irritant and any homemade system should be used with caution and kept and recharged outside in case of leakage. One DIY design includes a shutoff valve to keep the ammonia from reabsorbing until the valve is opened allowing it to be stored in a charged condition.
Before refrigeration people would buy eggs and milk fresh in the city or if they could have chickens and a cow or goat would produce their own. A chicken is easily consumed by even a small family once cooked, in less than a day.
A water evaporation cooler cabinet is another very cheap option for keeping food.
Lighting - Gas mantle lighting once found in most urban homes is not difficult to implement using either camping lamps and piped gas or better yet certified indoor lamps. While in college I worked in a gun and camping shop which sold a reverse fitting for refilling disposable Coleman LP gas cartridges from the older non-tip over shutoff bulk tanks making camp lights highly practical for hanging. It must be remembered that gas lighting presents an increased fire hazard so precautions including avoiding clutter and considering the floor and wall surface must be taken into account. Battery powered florescent and LED lights and LED nightlights are also useful for reading and small tinkering. Metal halide lighting is much more power friendly than incandescent if large areas require illumination for security purposes.
Communications - Your radio communications system should have a redundant battery bank and power supply should your services be required in an emergency. It should be remembered the operating rule of just as much power as required and the usage of low power consumption modes like CW. Tube systems are notoriously wasteful of power and tubes have limited life so these should be kept as backup systems in most cases. Only power up satellite Internet systems after you have typed up all the e-mails and set them up to send immediately after going online. There are offline viewers which will call up all the web sites you normally visit and grab them all for later viewing.
Television sets, satellite receivers, and large stereo systems are wasteful of electrical power if left on. A small notebook computer for occasional movies and an MP3 player for music will save many valuable watts. Unplug or employ a disconnect switch [or power strip with switch] on all electronics unless they are in use. This will protect them from power surges in addition to eliminating sleep-state power draw. [Also know as a "phantom load."]
Telephone - If your retreat can obtain telephone service a secondary redundant system connecting you to selected neighbors can be set up in some areas by ordering an old style alarm or bell line to one central home, this is usually cheaper than a line with actual telephone service, and should work in most telephone systems even if the central office with its redundant power goes offline but the wires are still intact. The Telephone company will either splice the wire pairs at the neighborhood box or at the closest central office, officially only for alarm systems, it is possible to set up anything from long run Ethernet or simple voice lines with an old style "everybody rings" party line. This will not save off grid watts but is a good way to add redundancy to your retreat.
Safety - Install at least two combo carbon monoxide sensing smoke alarms in your home in addition to a smoke alarm in every occupied room. In these alarms, install long life lithium batteries and check on the first of the month and every time you change to or from daylight savings. DO NOT use rechargeable batteries for your smoke and carbon monoxide alarms!
Due to the higher fire risk using flame-based alternatives to electricity I even more strongly recommend installation of fire sprinklers in all rooms, flame hoods over all cooking surfaces with automatic sprinklers that have a manual activation, and at least two standpipe and hose cabinets with 100 gpm gravity flow minimum per standpipe, ABC-rated fire extinguisher, gloves, goggles, and Nomex face shroud. Install outdoor standpipes and stocked hose locker for wildfires, a charged mobile phone for 911 (BTW, you need not have an active calling plan to use a cell phone to call 911 in the USA) and if you have to retreat from interior firefighting. Most importantly have an evacuation and rendezvous family accounting plan and volunteer with the local volunteer fire department, learn when the fire is just too big to fight by yourself.
With an engineering eye it is often possible to reduce your home or retreat electrical requirements to an inexpensive few hundred watts once alternatives are considered. Shalom, - David in Israel
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Letter Re: How to Make Your Own "Black Out" OPSEC Window Panels
James,
Another good product for light shades is Reflectix Insulation
.
Basically Reflectix is bubble wrap with aluminum foil bonded to one or both sides. I have used it to make thermal drapes for my home, and know that it blocks all visible light. You can buy it at most Home Improvement centers. It commonly comes in 25' rolls that are 16", 24", or 48" in width.
Last winter I bought a 4'x25' roll and had enough to do my entire house. (9 windows of various sizes) the cost was about $40.
Manufacturers claim that reflects up to 97% of all radiant heat, so not only will you save some energy, I would expect it to be somewhat effective against infrared and thermal imaging.
I know that the temperature in my old Mobile Home came up a good 10 degrees F in just the 45 minutes it took me to put up my blinds.
While I made my blinds so they can be rolled up during the day time, it would be very easy to find some way to anchor them on the sides and at the bottom so they would completely block all light at night.
Thank You JWR for a great site. - Fanderal
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Letter Re: How to Make Your Own "Black Out" OPSEC Window Panels
Sir,
In the film industry we use a very cheap and very opaque product to block out windows. We often need to shoot [indoor] night time scenes during the day and can't have any stray light.
Product is called Duvetyne, it's a very, very heavy black cloth. We even use it for flags and cutters, which are light-blocking pieces that we put in front of lights as big as 20K (20,000 watts) to deflect and control stray light. This stuff works great.
Here is a supplier of Duvetyne.
Has it for $8.25 per yard (60" wide), so it really is cheap as dirt. You can buy a 50 yard roll for a little over $400, which has got to be enough to do the windows on two or three average houses. At that price I wouldn't want to be using old rags and what have you. I hope that this helps. - Adam
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Bug Out and Refugee Considerations, by Brad T.
I'd like to shed some light on what it might be like to move across an unfamiliar area without money or adequate supplies. This might come in handy when you have to bug out following a natural disaster or other societal disruption. It might provide tips on how to avoid apprehension or detection while traveling. In addition, it might help you in determining a place for your retreat and anticipating refugees. Finally it might prepare you for some of the emotional and physical stresses you will face if you find yourself bugging out.
I live on the US Mexico border and there is a constant flow of illegal aliens and drug smugglers passing through and around my city. I live in the busiest area for smuggling drugs and people in the United States. Being a Border Patrol agent I also have up to date information on the trends and tactics illegal aliens and drug smugglers use to avoid detection and move to the interior of the United States. I have also tracked and apprehended countless groups of illegal aliens and drug smugglers. I will try to pass on some of my knowledge of how these people move from Mexico to the United States.
Most illegal aliens are extremely poor and are willing to walk through the desert for days or weeks, sometimes with small children. There are exceptions to this; most of these are drug smugglers. They have plenty of money, support vehicles, scouts and communication equipment. My focus in this article will be aliens that jump the fence and walk across the desert.
They mostly move at night without flashlights. During the day they sleep in clumps of trees or rocks or in caves. They seldom travel alone. Most are in groups of two to twenty. The guides have developed networks of trails and hiding spots to move through the desert. Some larger groups have several guides with one or more on a high ridge top to provide information about the movements of the Border Patrol or other people that will inform law enforcement of their location. The guides use cell phones or two way radios to communicate. They guide their groups to water in cattle tanks or streams. The groups can go for days without eating. When we apprehend a group in is common for them to tell us about dead bodies they passed on their way. They also tell us of injured or sick aliens that were left behind. Most of the apprehended aliens ask for food and water right away. When we give them food they eat ravenously.
In most cases the guides follow natural and manmade landmarks. The most obvious are game trails and dirt roads. They also follow canyons, natural gas lines, electrical power lines, railroad tracks, rivers and fence lines. For example a group will travel 50 yards off to the side of railroad tracks in thick brush. (This might be a factor to consider when choosing a retreat location. You don’t want groups of refugees traveling near your retreat because they are following railroad tracks or electrical power lines.) They seldom travel on high ridges because our cameras and radar will pick up their movements. They usually walk down trails with thick trees and bushes providing cover. They like to move through deep canyons with sandy washes at the bottom. Many trails military crest ridges where our cameras cannot see. When they must travel through flat open areas they might wait for hours until all the Border Patrol vehicles clear from the area before they continue.
During the summer they travel at night because it is cooler. If they have enough water they will continue during the day and only stop when they absolutely have to sleep or if they get heat exhaustion. Heat exhaustion affects your judgment and can lead to heat stroke and death very quickly. The best way to prevent this is to get out of the heat, drink plenty of water and reduce your physical activity. For some reason people with heat exhaustion remove their shoes. It does not occur to them to drink the rest of their water. I once found an alien under a tree nearly dead with a full bottle of water. When EMS arrived they had to give him four IV bags before he finally had to pee. It just shows how heat exhaustion can affect your judgment. Another time we found an alien sitting up with his legs crossed in the middle of a paved road with his shoes removed. He died sitting there waiting for a car to come rescue him. He probably did not realize that the blacktop in the sun is one of the hottest places for him to stop.
During the winter they walk at night because it is too cold to sit still. When there is no cloud cover the temperature can drop well below freezing. We use long range FLIR cameras and thermal imaging to locate groups. These cameras show small changes in temperature and you can actually see the cold air collected in valleys on still nights. A cow or rabbit shows up as a bright white spot on the screen because it is so warm compared to the surroundings. When groups stop on cold nights they usually stop at the military crest of a hill because the air is warmer at the top of a hill. During the day they sleep in areas hidden by trees and bushes. They huddle together to keep warm and many of the women get raped or assaulted. We find the "lay-ups" littered with empty food containers, water bottles, clothing and backpacks. There are some lay-ups that are so filled with junk it looks like you stumbled onto a landfill. This is also a common area to find dead bodies.
Part of my job is to search apprehended aliens for weapons or drugs. I have noticed they all carry the same items with very little variance. They are all wearing two or more pairs of pants and several shirts. I assume this is to avoid stickers and thorns and to keep warm. In the winter they have three or more pairs of pants and long sleeve shirts, sweatshirts and beanie caps. Their clothing is almost always dark colored. Most of the clothing is cotton and is very worn out. I have never caught an alien wearing Gore-tex or down. I can count on one hand the number of aliens I have caught wearing gloves.
Some of them have backpacks with meager supplies of food and water. The food is usually tortillas, bread and sometimes canned food. I have also seen quite a few aliens with Pedialyte. Other items include a cigarette lighter, plastic bag with raw garlic, identification cards, money and toilet paper. I am not sure what the garlic if for, maybe to keep mosquitoes away. When I ask them they usually just shrug and say they eat it. Some carry religious articles like rosary necklaces or virgin Guadalupe candles. This always amazes me they would carry a 2-pound candle for miles when they could have packed more food or water. Other items I find but not as often include cell phones, kitchen knives, medicine and pictures of family members. I have never found a flashlight, multi-tool, compass, GPS, duct tape or other items usually associated with a bug out bag. Most of the backpacks are very poor quality with one or more zippers broken. You would be amazed at how they patch, wire and tie backpacks closed when the zippers break.
The water containers you could find at a gas station, anywhere from quart to gallon size. If the aliens do not have a backpack they carry the bottles in their hands. Sometimes they tie two of them together and sling them over their shoulder. Some of the water bottles are painted flat black so they cannot be seen at a distance. If I catch the group far enough north where they have refilled their bottles from tanks or streams the water is very dirty. I don’t think they have the time or perhaps even the knowledge to filter it through a shirt. I have actually seen tadpoles and small water creatures swimming in water bottles of apprehended aliens.
One thing I will never get used to is the smell of twenty people that have traveled a week through the desert without a shower. I have located and apprehended a group at night using only my sense of smell. I am not joking. When we pile them in our transport vans the smell is overwhelming.
Most of them are dehydrated and most have cuts and scratches. By the time we catch them the cuts are infected. I once chased a group through a field of jumping cholla [cactus] at night. When I caught them they were covered in cactus spines. They had no tools to remove the spines so they were using fingers and teeth to try to remove them. Twisted and broken ankles are also common. Many of the women are pregnant. If they can get into the United States to have their children then those kids will be United States citizens.
It is amazing how many husbands leave their wives and children behind when their group gets chased by Border Patrol. The hardest thing to see is finding small children that were left behind. One day we found a six year old boy wandering through the desert because he became separated from his mom the night before. If was cannot find the parents the children are returned to Mexico and will end up in an orphanage. This kind of thing happens almost every day.
Another time we found a guy wandering around and he was almost delirious. He could barley talk and looked dazed. When we finally got him back to our station he did not want to eat or drink. He just sat on a bench and stared at the ground. He later told us that a week earlier he paid a guide to get him and his wife and three year old daughter into the United States. Once he crossed the border the guide hit him on the head and disappeared with his wife and daughter. He had spent the following week wandering around looking for his wife and daughter. I think that under such circumstances I would be a wreck too.
Some of the lessons I have learned from them: You can do much more than you think you can with much less. Using guides in unfamiliar areas is very valuable to avoid detection but don’t trust them. Also carry basic medical supplies and drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration. Finally don’t waste your money and time on useless items. If you have never hiked a trail at night without a flashlight you need to try it. It is amazing how much you can see and hear when hiking at night. Stop frequently and listen for 30 seconds at a time. One night I heard a noise that was over 30 yards away from me. I judged by the amount of noise it was a group of people. I went over to investigate and was surprised to find a slow moving tortoise walking over dry leaves. It is amazing how much sound a person walking makes.
I also have learned by experience that certain pieces of gear are essential for my job. Some of these I would discard if I was traveling cross country in a bug out scenario. I think weight would be the primary factor. When I go out in the field I always wear gloves to avoid scratches and cuts on my hands. I also wear eye protection, even at night. I once saw an alien that had his eye jabbed by a branch at night. It was horrible. I almost always have scratches on my face from walking down trails with thorns and branches coming across the path. I never use a flashlight unless I am tracking, and then it is only briefly. I carry small electrolyte packets with me and plenty of water. I wear long sleeve shirts. I also carry a GPS receiver, electrical tape, pocket knife and plenty of extra ammunition.
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Surviving an Expedient Ambush Roadblock While Traveling by Vehicle, by M.W.
In the days following a societal collapse, there will be some people who will be on the move from where the problems exist to where they hope safety lies. There can be many reasons why people are on the move, and an equal number of reasons why someone else may wish to stop your progress. Getting on the move and out of a hostile area as early as possible in the wake of a collapse is a significant key to one’s survival, as well has having buddies to cover you during your travel.
The sooner you get on the road, the less your chances of encountering problems. A few people will recognize the early signs of collapse and get moving out of town long before traffic becomes a problem. Others will recognize the issue within twenty-four hours after the event takes place, and will be on the leading edge of the traffic during the exodus. The majority will not realize the seriousness until it is too late. These people will get caught-up in the traffic jam that will rival the exodus of Houston during Hurricane Rita, where I-45 and I-10 were packed full of cars stopped on the highway for 100 miles. Many people ran out of gas on the side of the road and found themselves without food or water since they had only moved a few miles in four hours.
You may be a well prepared family, but for one reason or another are caught on your heals when a collapse occurs. This leads you to stay put longer than you would have liked, but you have no better tactical choices but to lay low at home or work for a few days before bugging out. You do not want to get caught in a highway traffic jam following a collapse. If you get stuck, you will have to leave most of what you packed into your vehicle(s) and move out on foot amongst the thousands of ill-prepared people on the roads doing things they would never have considered during normal times.
Those who are forced to wait out the initial exodus and are moving out of urban areas several days or weeks after the collapse will have a higher probability of coming in contact with an expedient ambush roadblock, both in the city and on rural roads outside of small towns. An expedient ambush roadblock is one set-up in haste with readily available materials and personnel. There will be plenty of desperate people who were caught unprepared for such an event; their lack of morals and innate nature to survive will drive them to take from others, with deadly force if necessary. It is your job to protect your family and yourself from these threats, especially when on the move.
While traveling in a vehicle on the roads, you may encounter various types of roadblocks or ambush points. Some may be fairly elaborate, while others may be quite simple. All are equally deadly. The primary tactic you will need to thread your way safely through one of these expedient ambush roadblocks is what I call R.O.C.S.: Recognition, Observation, Covering Fire, and Speed.
Recognition:
Recognizing that something you see ahead is a potential ambush site is the first key to success. An ambush site can appear as a traffic accident (as illustrated in Patriots), a fallen tree near or on the road, abandoned/broken down vehicles, anything blocking all or part of the road, detours, refugees, high ground on one or both sides of the road, bridges, and anything that looks like it does not belong on, or near, a road. These are the types of expedient ambush sites that someone may quickly create in the days following a societal collapse. It is up to whomever is leading, to recognize that a potential exists and to move into the observation phase.
Observation:
Once you recognize a likely ambush point (LAP), you have two choices: divert your course and completely avoid the circumstance, or observe and evaluate the site. You can either stop well short of the potential ambush point and observe through a scope or binoculars, or have a passenger continue to observe while on the move. Observation is a form of Intel. Look for signs of movement, or things that seem out of place. Reverse what you see and put yourself in the place of the ambusher. Where would you hide? How would you set it up? How many people would you need to pull off an ambush? What weapons would you use? What tactics would you employ? What is your end game?
At this point, you need to determine if what you see is worth the risk of approach or if you need to turn around and find a different route (if possible). Anyone traveling with you should also evaluate the situation and help with risk assessment. Once a decision is made to approach and pass the observed site, cover[ing fire] is needed.
Covering Fire:
This is a two or more person/vehicle job. This means that if it is just you, your wife and the kids, that you need to move out of town in two vehicles. Hopefully you have friends traveling with you to a new location who also have a vehicle and weapons. For [overwatching] cover[ing fire] during the operation, the lead vehicle stops at a distance from the LAP that is within the range of the weapon being employed. For most weapon platforms a good distance is 100-300 yards. This ensures accurate shots and plenty of ballistic energy. The lead vehicle should place their vehicle at a 45-degree angle to the direction of travel and the weapon system should then be employed across the hood so that the engine block provides a [limited] ballistic shield for those person(s) providing cover[ing fire].
The trailing vehicles should move past the lead vehicle with Speed. Once beyond the LAP, those vehicles stop and provide cover for the other vehicle(s) yet to pass through the site. Again, the vehicles that have already passed the LAP should stop within range of the weapon(s) being employed and turn their vehicles 45-degrees to the road and take personal cover behind the engine, covering the passage of the trailing vehicles.
[JWR Adds: The concept of covering fire is actaully better termed suppressive fire. The term "cover", properly, only applies to barriers that provide ballistic protection to those behind them. So "covering fire" does not provide cover, nor concealment, only supression!]
Speed:
Passing through the LAP with adequate speed, and setting up a covering position on the far side for the trailing vehicles as fast as possible is key to minimizing exposure for all concerned. You do not want to drive so fast that you could lose control of your vehicle if you suddenly had to swerve or take significant evasive action.
Having short-range communications for these types of situations is also a smart idea. This can be done with CB radios, or inexpensive GMRS/eXRS two-way radios. Radios will be especially helpful during nighttime operations of this type. When the lead vehicle can communicate to trailing vehicle(s) that there is a LAP ahead, this can start a desired chain reaction that can significantly increase the odds of surviving one of these situations. Communications can also be an aid when the lead vehicle passes an unseen ambush point and can radio a warning to following vehicles, which can immediately render covering fire and/or take evasive actions.
The following is a fictitious scenario using all of the aforementioned, with three families in three vehicles approaching a potential ambush site seen from one mile away. The cars are traveling 200 yards apart. (After the SHTF, when traveling by foot or vehicle, travel should always be conducted in tactical columns, where a specified distance is maintained between people or vehicles. Staying too close together and/or tailgating are unacceptable risks after SHTF, when traveling.)
Lead vehicle (vehicle 1): “LAP ahead, one mile”
Trailing vehicles stop in place, while vehicle 1 moves forward another 1/2-mile and evaluates the LAP. The lead vehicle stops and uses 10x50 binoculars to scan the area. No movement is noticed, but it looks like a large tree was dropped across one lane of the highway. The base is obviously recently cut, and there are no other dead trees nearby. The leaves still have a greenish tint and have not yet browned, but are wilted.
Lead vehicle radios the trailing vehicles: “No movement seen, there is a way past the LAP on the opposite shoulder and grass. Watch the tree line on the right side of the road. Lots of dense cover there. We will move ahead to 200 yards and set-up.”
The lead vehicle approaches slowly to within 200 yards while the trailing vehicles move to within ½ mile away. The lead vehicle stops in the road and turns to 45-degrees to the direction of travel and both occupants exit the drivers side and set up across the hood with their AR-10 rifles with ACOG scopes.
Lead vehicle radios the trailing vehicles: “Go!”
The first trailing vehicle (vehicle 2) gets up to speed and approaches the LAP while the lead vehicle continues to scan the LAP through their scopes, ready to fire upon any threat. The vehicle passes the LAP with no problems and goes 200 yards beyond and sets up an overwatch position on the other side, careful to orient themselves so as not to fire upon the vehicles on the other side. They are covering with scoped AR-10s scanning the LAP.
Vehicle 2 radios: “We are through and set up. Go!”
While vehicles 1 and 2 maintain covering positions, the last vehicle (vehicle 3) gets up to speed and starts to pass the LAP. As they do so, gunfire erupts from the tree line (in this instance, the ambushers were caught unaware by the first vehicle and were alert when the next one came through.) Vehicles 1 and 2 open fire on the tree line, while the passenger in vehicle 3 opens fire while passing the ambush. Once beyond the ambush point, vehicle 3 sets up 220 yards on the other side of the ambush to the rear and right of vehicle 2, and provides covering fire along with vehicle 2.
Vehicle 3 radios: “We’re set. Covering. No fire from the trees. Go!”
Vehicle 1 remounts and charges through the ambush point with no gunfire coming from the tree line. They drive beyond the other two vehicles and all personnel remount their vehicles and resume their travels.
At this point, it would be wise to find a secure place to stop and evaluate your persons and vehicles. You don’t need to stop all jumbled together, especially if there is more than one person per vehicle and everyone has a radio. Each vehicle stops a couple hundred yards apart and while one person provides cover, the other goes over the vehicle and passengers, looking for trouble.
You would want to check the tires, engine soft points (hoses, belts, etc.) and look for leaks (anti-freeze, fuel, oil, hydraulic fluid, etc.) Be sure to check each other carefully as adrenaline will be high and a person who has been shot or injured may not feel a wound at this point. Address any issues as quickly as possible and continue moving.
Other Considerations
Stopping to evaluate and/or cover a position may not be advisable in some circumstances. You do the best you can at evaluating while on the move, radioing your findings to your travel companions, and then pushing through. This is where speed comes in to play. The faster you can get through the LAP the better your chances of survival. Your passenger (if you have one) helps with navigation, assessing threats, and provides cover during the encounter.
Choosing weapons is always a difficult decision, especially if you are going to be defending your life with them. For situations such as the one presented above, the longer the effective range of the weapon, the further away you can stay from the LAP, increasing your chances of survival. You must also consider that just because you can easily shoot a M1A or even a .50 Barrett, your wife or teenager may not be able to adequately handle such a weapon in a life-or-death cover fire situation. [So a .223, 5.45x39, or 7.62x39mm rifle may be more apropos.]
Having a scope on your weapon will also increase your shot accuracy and your ability to observe the area for movement while your weapon system is employed. We all want to be accurate with open sights at long ranges, but if you are trying to hit the small exposed body part of a person behind cover at 250 meters, it is easier to find the body part to shoot at with a scope. People do not always present themselves as a nice squared-up silhouette like at a shooting range. When your target has taken cover, you may only get to see the top of a head, or part of an arm or leg. Putting a bullet in an extremity might not kill them, but it may take them out of the fight.
For night operations, having some form of night vision technology could become critical. These systems allow you to see through the darkness and into the darkest of shadows. Generation I systems are only adequate to about 50 meters and cost under $200. Generation I+ systems have a little more clarity and cost $300-500. Generation II and II+ systems can now be had for less than $1,000 new, and can be found cheaper from time to time in the used marketplace. These go up to $3,500 depending on features and manufacturer, and have a range from 100 to 200 meters with quite clear optics for the price. Generation III night vision has come down quite a bit and can be had for $3,500-$5,500. Personally, I cannot see enough difference between quality (with the exception of extended recognition range) of the Gen II and Gen III night vision to compel me to spend the extra $2,500+. There is also "Generation IV" night vision, which I know very little about. Prices seem to be in the $4,500-5,500 range. A Gen II, III, or IV night vision monocular could be a life saver, especially if you can get one that comes with an optional weapons mount.
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Gear Up -- Appropriate and Redundant Technologies for Prepared Families
I frequently stress the importance of well-balanced preparedness in my writings. All too often, I've seen people that go to extremes, to the point that these extremes actually detract from the ability to survive a disaster situation. These range from the "all the gear that I'll need to survive is in my backpack" mentality to the "a truckload of this or that" fixation. But genuine preparedness lies in comprehensive planning, strict budgeting, and moderation. Blowing your entire preparedness budget on just one category of gear is detrimental to your overall preparedness.
Another common mistake that I see among my consulting clients is an over-emphasis on either very old technologies or on the "latest and greatest" technologies. In the real world, preparedness necessitates having a bit of both. At the Rawles Ranch we have both 19th century technology (like hand-powered tools) and a few of the latest technologies like passive IR intrusion detection (Dakota Alerts), photovoltaics, and electronic night vision. My approach is to pick and choose the most appropriate technologies that I can maintain by myself, but to always have backups in the form of less exotic or earlier, albeit less-efficient technologies. For example, my main shortwave receiver is a Sony ICF-SW7600GR. But in the event of EMP, I also a have a pair of very inexpensive Kaito shortwaves
and a trusty old Zenith Trans-Oceanic radio that uses vacuum tubes. Like my other spare electronics, these are all stored in a grounded galvanized steel can when not in use.
Here is my approach to preparedness gear, in a nutshell
- Redundancy, squared. I jokingly call my basement Jim's Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR)
- Buy durable gear. Think of it as investing for your children and grandchildren. And keep in mind that there'll be no more "quick trips to the hardware store" after TSHTF.
- Vigilantly watch Craigslist, Freecycle, classified ads, and eBay for gear at bargain prices.
- Strive for balanced preparedness that "covers all bases"--all scenarios.
- Flexibility and Adaptability (Examples: shop to match a 12 VDC standard for most small electronics, truly multi-purpose equipment, multi-ball hitches, NATO slave cable connectors for 24 VDC vehicles, Anderson Power Pole connectors for small electronics--again, 12 VDC)
- Retain the ability to revert to older, more labor-intensive technology.
- Fuel flexibility (For example: Flex fuel vehicles (FFVs), Tri-fuel generators
, and biodiesel compatible vehicles)
- Purchase high-quality used (but not abused) gear, preferably when bargains can be found
- If in doubt, then buy mil-spec.
- If in doubt, then buy the larger size and the heavier thickness.
- If in doubt, then buy two. (Our motto: "Two is one and one is none.")
- Buy systematically, and only as your budget allows. (Avoid debt!)
- Invest your sweat equity. Not only will you save money, but you also will learn more valuable skills.
- Train with what you have, and learn from the experts. Tools without training are almost useless.
- Learn to maintain and repair your gear. (Always buy spare parts and full service manuals!)
- Buy guns in common calibers
- Buy with long service life in mind (such as low self-discharge NiMH rechargeable batteries.)
- Store extra for charity and barter
- Grow your own and buy the tooling to make your own--don't just store things.
- Rust is the enemy, and lubrication
and spot painting
are your allies.
- Avoid being an "early adopter" of new technology--or you'll pay more and get lower reliability.
- Select all of your gear with your local climate conditions in mind.
- Recognize that there are no "style" points in survival. Don't worry about appearances--concentrate on practicality and durability.
- As my old friend "Doug Carlton" is fond of saying: "Just cut to size, file to fit,, and paint to match."
- Don't skimp on tools. Buy quality tools (such as Snap-on and Craftsman brands), but buy them used, to save money.
- Skills beat gadgets and practicality beats style.
- Use group standardization for weapons and electronics. Strive for commonality of magazines, accessories and spare parts
- Gear up to raise livestock. It is an investment that breeds.
- Build your fences bull strong and sheep tight.
- Tools without the appropriate safety gear (like safety goggles, helmets, and chainsaw chaps
) are just accidents waiting for a place to happen.
- Whenever you have the option, buy things in flat, earth tone colors
- Plan ahead for things breaking or wearing out.
- Always have a Plan B and a Plan C
If you are serious about preparedness, then I recommend that you take a similar approach.
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Two Letters Re: Advice on Night Vision Gear
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I have been reading your site for almost a year now and am grateful for your
advise. I've read both Patriots and Retreats. Currently, I live in suburban
Detroit and am looking for a farm out in the country. I'm good on food and
many other items, but question my weapons battery. BTW, both my wife and I
have attended the excellent training at Front Sight. Currently I have three
handguns: an XDM-40 with four mags, Steyr M40 with four mags and a Taurus
PT92 9mm with two
mags. My long guns include two short-barrel 12 gauge shotguns with one having
a dedicated
light, one DPMS {AR-15 clone] .223 with dedicated light and Trijicon ACOG 4x32
scope, one DPMS .308 AR-10,
and one Ruger 10/22.
Crossbows are on my wish list. I have between 1,000 and 2,000 rounds of ammo
for each weapon. I want
to buy more ammo as well as reloading equipment and supplies.
I want to buy a scope for the 308 and decided on a Leupold Mark-3 4.5-12x 40mm
scope. My concern is night vision. Do I get a dedicated night vision scope
for the .308 and forget the Leupold, or a stand alone [hand-held] night vision
glass? What good is it to see with night vision, if I can't see it thru the
scope
to shoot?
I don't think I'll need night vision in my subdivision, until I purchase the
farm, but think I should get it now well it is still available. Of course my
budget and lovely bride will only go for so much. Can you please advise?
Thanks so much, - RP
JWR Replies: Assuming that it is equipped with a flash hider,
you should set up your AR-10 with an AN-PVS-4 Starlight scope, as your dedicated
night-fighting rifle. With a throw-lever scope mount and a flip-up back-up
iron sights (BUIS),
you can quickly detach the Starlight scope and use the
AR-10
for daylight
shooting. (But of course be sure to do some target shooting tests to insure
that the scope has correct "return to zero", when re-mounted. Be
patient and plan
to
buy bolt action .308 (such as a
Savage Model 10) for daylight long range shooting. (That
is where
the Leupold Mark-3 4.5-12x 40mm
scope that you mentioned would be most appropriate.)
And BTW, buy more magazines! With a renewed Federal ban now looming, you
should acquire at least six spare mags for each handgun, and at least eight
spares for
each battle
rifle.
Buy them now,
while they are still affordable. Full capacity magazine prices are likely
to
triple or quadruple if the Federal AWB is
renewed.
Hi James,
I've been reading your blog for the last two years. Let me just tell you that
you've been an inspiration to my family and my friends. We have recently acquired
a country property here in Canada and are in the process of building our retreat.
One thing that I have completely ignored, was the need for night vision equipment.
In the country, in remote locations, or when the grid goes down, it is almost
completely dark at night. I mean you cannot see two feet in front of you.
I've been researching what is the best night vision equipment to use for patrolling,
security and combat. I think I'm going with Gen2 goggles, but there is this
one product called SuperVision by company called Xenonics. But I'm not sure how it works and whether it is suitable for retreat
defense.
Looking at different night vision products, my question to you is: What is
the best option for avoiding night vision device (NVD) detection [by an opponent
that has their own night vision gear]?
The IR beams that some equipment generates or IR gun
sights will be visible to someone using passive NVD, right? I'm just thinking
that the best night vision equipment will be the one that has no signature, or are all NVDs visible to other NVDs?
Another problem I see is that most firearms leave flash signature. Does the
Vortex [flash hider] eliminate the flash completely? I think defending your
retreat at night is a completely new ball game, there are many things that most of your readers might not be
aware of or experimented with. I think NVDs are a must, just like the firearms.
Without a good night vision equipment you cannot defend your retreat at night
unless you get a good illumination from the moon. Thanks, - Peter
JWR Replies: Let me begin by stating forthrightly that
the claims of the makers of Supervision are more marketing hype than substance.
They do not perform well out in the boonies where there is not much ambient
light. Instead, go for mil-spec Gen 2 night
vision gear, or better yet Gen 3 if you can afford it.
Vortex type flash hiders reduce muzzle flash by about 90%. This
video clip shows the dramatic difference of a rifle with and without a
flash hider. (Can you see why I've had the muzzles threaded on all my bolt
action centerfire
rifles?)
For versatility, I prefer weapon-mounted scopes that can be detached for use
as hand-held monoculars.Make this your first purchase. If
you have a big budget, then you can go on to buy goggles, but get your weapon
sight
first.
You also asked about opponents equipped with vision gear being able to detect
you. In brief: If you use active IR devices (illuminators or lasers), they
can definitely be seen! But it is important to note that even "passive"
night vision gear casts a back-light. (This is the light of the image that
you are seeing being cast on your face.) Through another NVD this looks like
a bright flashlight! For this reason, I discourage SurvivalBlog readers from
buying any night vision scope that does not have a baffled ("flap") eyecup
type eyeguard. (The baffle only opens when you have the scope pressed up against
your eye, minimizing back-lighting.) This fault is common with nearly all of
the commercial night vision gear on the market. (But some of these scopes can
be retrofitted with mil-spec eyeguards.)
My recommended suppliers for Starlight weapon sights and goggles are JRH
Enterprises and Ready
Made Resources. For full mil-spec units as well as spare intensifier
tubes, talk to STANO Components.
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Letter Re: Navigating by the Stars »
A Know-Nothing Gun Buyer Illustrates a Fatally-Flawed Approach to Preparedness
Introductory Note from JWR: The following was posted at the
Mike's Madhouse forum, one of the Baen's
Bar Forums. (This is the forum moderated by SurvivalBlog's Editor at Large, Michael
Z. Williamson.) It
illustrates
how
incredibly
naive
some
newbie
gun
owners
can
be. It also underscores a couple of my oft-repeated mantras: Survival
is
not
about
gadgets.
It is about skills. And, tools without training are
almost
useless.
Owning a gun doesn't make someone a "shooter" any more than owning
a surfboard makes someone a surfer. Reading this letter made
me laugh hysterically, but it also made me sad to think that for each "rescued'
newbie
that
is successfully mentored by a skilled shooter,
there are probably one or two others that remain blissfully ignorant. Even worse,
some of these latter-day gun owners might think that merely buying several
thousand
dollars worth of guns and paraphernalia has somehow made them "prepared." Here
is the post:
"This last week I had a conversation with a associate at work. First let me
tell you about him, he's a little liberal and by that I am saying someone who
is left of Obama. He starts up the conversation with "you know about guns right, could you teach me how to shoot my guns," at
this point I am speechless, I mean this person is about the most liberal person
I know. First I have to pick up my jaw and my hamster fell out of his wheel
is laying on its back doing the kick'en chicken. Flabbergasted that I am I
ask what type he owns and he tells me that they are "those M16 machine
guns and a 45 cal automatic."
Having known him for about six years and he is a friend (we agreed to not talk
about politics and religion years ago) I asked, "What does your wife think
about the guns?" He answered: "Oh she knows we bought two of
each" (Jaw on floor, Hamster now in critical condition), you have to know
his wife more to the left than him, and the last time she visited [my home]
I had to swear that all the guns were locked up so the children were safe.
The first
thing I ask, do you have a gun safe, answer: "No and don't worry
we haven't bought bullets yet." I tell him sure, I will walk through weapon
safety and will teach him to shoot. By the way where did you buy the weapons?
His answer:
The local local "sporting
warehouse" . I told him to bring the weapons Friday and I will go over
range and weapon safety, and we'll go to the range on Saturday (today).
On Friday
afternoon he brings the weapons and accessories over. Now I won't say the salesman
saw them coming but, he sold him: two Pelican rifle cases with locks,two
Blackhawk drag bags, two Pelican pistol cases. The "M16 machine guns" turned
out to be a pair of S&W M&P
PSX [semi-auto only M4 clone
rifles] each with a Trijicon ACOG and with
a green laser and forward
pistol grip with flashlight and with bipod and only one magazine
[for each emphasis Mike's] about the only missing accessory is the
latté maker (a whole 'nother story)
Now I have seen decked out M4s before but this was ridiculous. With all [items]
mounted weight about 15 lbs unloaded. The .45 turned out to be a Kimber
SIS with 2 magazines and a shoulder holster and a belt holster with a gun belt,
magazine holder. Now he isn't hurting for money but this is taking him to the
cleaners. So first thing I start taking off cr*p, laser goes, pistol grip with
flashlight goes, I start to take off the Trijicon but did you know that the
M&P does not come with
iron sights?
I had to ask [facetiously] why they didn't get a laser for the Kimber. His
answer "It's
on order."
Next, I put all the excess stuff in the handy Pelican box and walk
through weapon safety. If you notice there were no eye or ear protection,
cleaning kits [included] with all this gear [that he was sold].
First thing, I show them how to disassemble and clean the M4 and Kimber.
I decided that we would start with the pistol and that I would bring a 22
for them to start with. The range went well we started with the targets at
5m then to 7m, 10m and so forth.it went flawlessly. No great groups but at
least they were hitting the targets. We shot about 500 rounds of . 22 and ended
with 200 rounds of .45.
They had fun and [I helped to create] another [enthusiastic] gun owner. I
got them to start using a my favorite gun shop for their future purchases.
(She liked my SIG P226
and wants one now).
We stopped at the warehouse [store] and returned some of the
excess equipment, about $1,500 worth. I told them to practice the basics,
and then if they wanted to they could get other accessories. I will be taking them to a different range tomorrow for the M4. Wish me luck. Now, if
I could only revive my hamster!"
« Letter Re: Gaining Situational Awareness and Old-Time Knowledge |Main| Note from JWR: »
Real World Observations on Fighting Crime and Criminals, by Eli
I sat down to see what I could offer to share with other SurvivalBlog readers.
Many topics have already been covered, so I will attempt to go somewhere new.
I am a law enforcement officer by trade, and hope to provide a unique perspective
as such. I have seen shootings, stabbing, burglaries, robberies, etc. I have
served both search and arrest warrants. I work in the southwest US, and have
worked in very affluent areas as well as very poor areas. What follows are
some observations of my time on the job, relating to a few different areas
and crimes that occur. Hopefully some people will get something out of this.
None of this is to be construed as legal advice, strictly observations. All
are very applicable to everyday life, and will be highly applicable at TEOTWAWKI .A good teacher once said “I am not showing you the way, only
A way.” I
apologize in advance if I jump around between topics:
1- SHOOTINGS-
Of all the shootings I have seen, whether officer involved or not, shot placement
has been the key to success (success being the death or incapacitation of attacker).
Regardless of bullet or weapon type, a solid hit will end a fight. I have seen
Black Talon .45 ACP ammo through the stomach fail to incapacitate someone, as
well as .223s with poor shot placement fail to stop an attacker. Both subjects
lost a lot of blood, but were able to continue to fight. A few recent shootings
involved 9mm FMJ ammo. All were fatal, and all were solid hits to the heart/lung
area. The take home lesson is that shot placement is key to survival, regardless
of caliber. Obviously, proper ammo choice with proper shot placement is best.
(I know it has been discussed before, but bird shot is not an effective defense
load)
So how can we improve our shot placement? Shoot more. Dry fire. Practice. Then
practice some more. If you do not shoot, learn. Whether you are a beginner or
advanced shooter, do not forget to work on the basics- sight alignment and trigger
control. There is no substitute for trigger time and fundamentals. 22 conversion
kits are widely available for many guns for practice at reduced cost. AR-style
sights are also available for 10/22s if you prefer that route over a conversion
kit. Shorter, more frequent practice sessions are more beneficial than infrequent
longer sessions, whether live or dry fire.
After improving static shooting skills, focus on stress shooting. Attend a training
course. Practice what you learn in the course. A 2-4 day course will expose you
to a lot of new ideas. It is up to you to reinforce them [with practice] when
you
return home. Only through repetition will these movements become second nature.
Join
a local
IDPA league.
The stress of competition will help. Become physically fit. Studies with police
and simmunition/judgmental shooting scenarios showed that the more
physically fit an individual, regardless of all other factors, the more likely
they were to succeed on the simmunition portion and the less mistakes they made
on the judgmental portion. (Think about how sports teams make more mental errors
late in a game when fatigue sets in) All subjects showed an immediate increase
in heart rate and blood pressure. The more fit individuals showed a more rapid
return to normal levels, often before the end of the scenario. Combine physical
exertion with shooting. Try doing sprints/pushups/jumping jacks, then shooting.
Use your imagination.
Learn to clear a malfunction on your weapon. All guns will jam at some point.
Ejected shells have bounced off walls and landed back in an open recoiling action.
Strange things happen. Know your chosen weapon’s action of arms. Learn
to do so with economy of movement. You can purchase dummy rounds or assemble
them from spent cases. Throw a few into your magazine next time you shoot, and
clear the malfunctions as they happen. It will also show any flinching problems.
Teach someone else to shoot. You will be amazed at how much you will learn teaching
someone else.
2-BURGLARIES
A-Points of entry-
Residential burglaries are an all too common occurrence. The most common points
of entry I have seen are door and open windows. For some reason, crooks have
an aversion to breaking windows on houses, though it will happen. (Perhaps
the Broken Window Theory is true…) “Smash and Grab” activity
does happen, but tends to be more vehicle related. (Practice good OPSEC in
your vehicle.
Do not leave valuables in plain view. Do not place gun stickers on your vehicle,
etc)
A few bad guys that have been willing to talk have mentioned that you
can shut a door after kicking it in, but a broken window is harder to hide
from neighbors.
Go and look at your front door. Find your lock plate. When a door is forced,
this is the part to give, with the plate coming loose and breaking the trim.
Get a screw driver, and remove one of the screws. Realize that this is what
is securing your front door. Now go buy longer screws, and replace them immediately.
A security door is also a huge plus, as it opens out and requires different
techniques
to remove. They are not fool proof, but do more to make someone choose another
house which is the ultimate goal.
Open windows are the other really common method of entry. Any time any work
is done on your house, check all of your windows. It is disturbingly common
for
workers or anyone in your home to leave a window open in a unused room, or
unlock a seldom used door and then return later. Follow workers when they are
in your
house (Side note on this… I recently had a water heater replaced. I would
have done it myself, but it was still under warranty and was free. While chit-chatting
with the worker, he asked if I was a cop. I told him no, then asked why. He
replied that the only people who watch him work tend to be cops. Just like
you are observing
others, do not forget that you are being watched as well.) Sterilize your house
prior to allowing workers in. Do not leave out firearm accessories, bank statements,
etc. Bars on windows are also effective in limiting possible points of entry.
They may be against fire code (check your jurisdiction), and reduce points
of exit as well. Roll shutters are another really good option here. Many newer
homes
have a window to the side of the front door. Consider a metal grate or something
similar inside to prevent breaking the window, then undoing the locks. These
windows, even when frosted, also provide a visible indicator about how many
people/when someone is coming to the door, eliminating surprise.
B- What is taken
Cash, firearms, jewelry, electronics, tools, credit cards, personal info, bank
statements. Anything that they can pawn or trade for drugs. If you go on vacation,
take your spare vehicle keys with you. A recent trend has been to load up the
second car parked in the cover of the garage, then drive it away with all of
your stuff. Buy a gun safe, preferably a heavy one. Don't forget to lock your
safe (No, I am not kidding about this.) Bolt your safe down. I have seen studs
cut
from
the
wall
to remove a safe. I personally have not seen one pried from the floor yet,
although I am sure it has happened. Bolt it to both floor and walls
and be safe. Write your serial numbers
down also, especially for firearms. (Be very careful with this list,
for obvious reasons, especially with private party gun sales. Keep a copy somewhere
other than your safe also) It is very hard to prove ownership or log an item
as stolen without the serial number.
3-ROBBERIES
Robberies occur all the time, everywhere. Situational awareness is the most
beneficial for preventing these. You are most vulnerable at times of preoccupation.
Fumbling
with keys, exiting/entering a car or residence, running with your headphones
on, etc Carry bags in a manner to leave your gun hand free, assuming you are
carrying concealed. Pay attention. Pause before entering exiting anywhere.
Stop, look, and listen. Take a few seconds to do this anytime you enter or
exit anything.
Make it a habit. You see all the time on surveillance footage of people walking
into a liquor store as it is being robbed. Try to stop, look and listen before
you enter the store. After you enter, step to one side and do it again. Park
in well lit areas. When in your vehicle, keep your doors locked. Do not pull
up directly behind the car in front of you and box yourself in. Know where
exits are in restaurants and businesses. Listen to your hunches. Home invasion
robberies
are increasingly common as well. Security doors pay huge dividends here. Even
a highly trained SWAT team
either has to pry or yank these with a vehicle, before dealing with the interior
door. This buys you time. Time equates to
distance
and options, which equate to safety. Have a dog, and lock all of your gates.
See above about window bars. A fenced yard helps. Most states have laws that
recognize fenced yards as having a higher expectation of privacy than a non-fenced
yard, and a corresponding reduced standard for lethal force action inside said
fence. (i.e. the "reasonable person" test, an intruder climbing over a locked
gate into a yard with a dog would be expected to be a greater threat than an
intruder
that
was at the front window of an unfenced yard.)
It is not unreasonable if the “police” come
to your door to ask to see a badge, preferably a commission card, as these
have an officer’s photo. Look though a different window and see if a
car is outside. Call the agency they say they are from and verify they are
who they
say they are. If in doubt, wait and verify. Keep your doors locked when you
are home, not just when you leave or before bed.
Police are not trained to look for "bad guys." They are trained to
analyze behavior and patterns. When something looks out of place, it is cause
for concern.
4-BUILDING CLEARANCE/HOME DEFENSE
A-Offensive
I work nights, so most of this section will be related to this. I have approached
many houses. Let me walk you through what is typical for my squad. Hopefully
it will grant some insight into the mind and method of potential attackers.It
starts outside of the residence, down the street. Turn off your vehicle lights
before you turn onto the street. Park your vehicle so it is not in plain view.
Take advantage of other parked cars, as well as the shadows in between street
lights to conceal your car. Exit the vehicle quietly. Do not slam your doors.
Turn of/disable your vehicle dome light prior to opening your door. Secure any
loose or rattling equipment. Stop, look, and listen while still at your car.
Let your eyes adjust. Identify the target residence. Depending on the threat
level of the suspect or call type we number anywhere from two to six. Approach
the house, again taking advantage of lighting and concealment. At the house,
stop, look and listen. Are there motion lights? Video cameras? Is there a fence?
Is the entire yard fenced? Is the gate locked? Are there cars in the driveway?
Are the hoods warm? Most residences have an exposed front and a fenced back yard,
so we will assume that is the case. Is there an alley? If so, send one or two
people to cover points of exit/look through rear windows. What do you hear? Television?
Fighting? Screaming? A shower? A racking shotgun? Whispering? Is there a barking
dog? (Pepper spray is effective and commonly used to silence barking dogs. Many
SWAT teams now carry suppressed weapons strictly for this purpose. Many cops
also carry dog treats.) Look at windows. Can you see through the blinds/curtains?
Do an experiment at your residence. Turn on an interior light in a room, and
go outside to the window. How much can you see in? Can you see through the corners?
What about where the curtains are supposed to come together at the bottom? Do
this for all the windows. What do you see inside? How many people? Men, women,
children? Are they calm? Are they armed? At the front door, we unscrew light
bulbs, adjust cameras, cover them with rubber gloves if they do not move. Spray
paint would be effective also at taking care of cameras that do not move. Consider
installing a light fixture with a completely surrounded bulb, one that takes
a screwdriver to change, or mounting it higher up.. When you knock on the door,
move away to a position of cover. Again, stop look and listen. Does the television go
off? Who yells to who to get the door? Corners of buildings provide more “cover” than
the middle of a wall, as most construction backs multiple 2x4 or 2x6’s
up at this location. Have someone watching through a window. Usually by shadow
or change in light you can tell when someone is coming to the door, and often
how many.
When entering a house
The most common mistakes when clearing a residence are noise discipline and speed.
Slow down. Do not move faster than you can take in important details. Be as
quiet as possible. The idea is to catch them before they catch you. They are
waiting
for
you. Do
not give them any advantage.
There is much debate about building clearance, and many schools of thought. Here
are some
universal points to all methods:
You need at least three people to be safe. Never search by yourself. More people
are better. Cover reflexive angles of one another. Smooth is the goal. Do not
stand near the walls. You do not want to risk giving away a position by running
your equipment against a wall. This also gives you more options should you engage
and have to move. Move slowly (one minute per hundred square
feet is not unreasonable).
When “pieing” [or "pie slicing"] a room, examine each new
degree
of
the
pie from top to bottom , and back again. Hunters will understand this better,
but
you
are
not looking for a whole person. You are looking for parts. A toe, an ear, an
elbow. Likewise, when clearing, have your upper body move before your lower body
(i.e., lean and clear, then move your feet underneath you….repeat….practice
with a friend/spouse or a mirror [with and absolutely cleared and double-checked
firearm])
and keep your elbow tucked under your weapon, so the first thing the bad guy
will
see
is half
the
barrel
of your
gun
and half
of that eye. (Notice I said “that” eye. Learn to shoot with
your off hand, and practice. It is impossible to safely clear a house with the
gun
in
one hand the entire time.) Practice house clearing. Get a friend, family member.
Go through your home. Go through theirs. Take turns being the good guy/bad guy.
Do it during the day. Do it at night. Repeat. People hide in all sorts of places.
Cupboards, washing machines, inside couches, between mattresses, etc. Do not
move past anything you have not cleared. You do not want to be worried about
something behind you while clearing. If a door is locked and you have to bypass
it, get creative. Lean something up against the door so you will know if it is
opened behind you. Tie it shut. Do not make more noise than you need to. Do not
be afraid to kneel or squat when pieing. People are expecting certain things.
Think outside the box.
As far as lights go, there are two schools of thought. The first, turn on lights
as you enter the room. You can see, but the enemy can also. The second, use a
weapon mounted or handheld light. You can illuminate an area, kill the light,
then move. Try both and see what you prefer.
B-Defensive Measures
Consider all of the proceeding section of what attackers do. Apply this to
your
home. Imagine you are at home, watching television. The neighbor’s dog
starts
barking, or your's does. The dog suddenly stops. You still get up to investigate,
wisely.
You go to turn on your outside light, and the bulb does not work. At this point
in time the hair on the back of your neck should be standing up. Pay attention
to all of the small things. You check your security camera, and suddenly it’s
looking at a view of the wall. If a security camera is not working, blocked,
etc, lights not working, dog stopped barking (or still barking like mad) these
are
clues
to put on your vest and load your weapon. (You do always put on your vest and
grab your weapon when you go to investigate bumps in the night, right? )
Look at your home. Put up a fence around your entire yard. Build a full size
fence, not a half one. Clear an area for 8-to-10 feet on either side of the fence,
the
entire way around. Do not take the time to put up a fence and then provide an
easy means over it. Lock the gate. Get two or three large dogs and let them have
free
roam of the yard. They make “shake” alarms for fences that will go
off when the fence is disturbed. They can be made to ring your cell phone (As
in your phone rings, you answer, a computer voice states "You have a fence
activation on the north side of your property."). Look at your outside lights
also. Where are the dark spots? Where are blind spots that you cannot see from
your windows? Consider discrete mirrors in strategic locations to check blind
spots. Mount your lights high so they cannot be unscrewed, and get fixtures that
protect
the light bulb. Install security cameras. Consider a few camera pointed towards
your house, possibly under eaves or overhangs that will be easy to miss. Where
are your children’s rooms in relationship to yours? Where are the bullets
that you may be shooting going to be flying? What walls can be made bullet resistant?
I have been in homes where the people literally filled the half walls
at the top of the stair case with sand/sand bags to provide a fortified fighting
position
for the family. Other ideas include surplus vests, Kevlar sheeting,
etc stuffed
in this area. Another option is to fortify your children’s rooms if they
are on the other end of the home, but this also provides an intruder with a potential
stronghold. Consider interior flood lights. The same people with the sand bagged
half walls had flood lights above the stairs, facing down. With the positioning
of the lights, it blinded everyone to the defenders at the top of the stairs.
Every home has ambush spots. When you are practicing clearing your house, think
about what spots give you problems. Blind corners or multiple doors in close
proximity are nightmares while clearing. Find a spot on the far side of the room
or down a hallway where you can view these problem areas. One where you can view
a problem area and fortify is an ideal location. Stairwells make good options.
While you are practicing clearing your house with someone else, take turns being
the “bad guy.” See where you want to hide, where you have the best
advantage.
I hope this helps. People often talk about hardware versus software. In these
tough economic times, hardware is not easy to come by. Software is cheap. Try
to still obtain what you can when you can, but focus on learning skills--any skills.
Plant a garden. Change your oil. Help someone with a construction project.
Read a book. Learn to bake bread. Learn to distill alcohol. Reload. Take a
first aid course. Cook with your food storage. Volunteer somewhere where you
can
learn something. Practice bartering your skills for goods or services. YouTube
is an amazing resource out there if you are unsure how to do something and
don’t know anyone that can teach you. If you already have skills, teach
them (while still learning new ones.) Spread the word to those that will listen.
Post a youtube video about preparation, or about any skill that you have. Teach
someone to shoot. You can pick up a surplus Mosin-Nagant rifle and 500 rounds
of ammunition for around $150, depending on where you live. Encourage everyone
you know to buy one or two.)
TheBoxOTruth.com is
a great resource also regarding questions about ammo ("I wonder what
happens if I shoot layers of sheet rock with
"X" caliber...") Show your friends SurvivalBlog. Sow the
seeds of preparation in all you come across. Continue to prepare, pray,
and be safe. - Eli
« Letter Re: Documentary Film Producer Seeking Interview Subjects |Main| Letter Re: New "Defiance" Resistance Warfare Movie »
Letter Re: Red Dot Sight Battery Longevity
JWR,
I have a red dot sight battery, lithium Energizer CR2032, which was
stored in it's original packaging in a refrigerator since May 1996, almost
13 years
ago. I recently opened it and have been testing to see if it would still work,
at present I have about 11 hours of use on it. I know this is anecdotal, but
the point is, if you use red dot aiming devices and it uses one of these type
batteries, it is probably worthwhile to store a good supply of batteries for
long term use. Regards, - K. in Texas
JWR Replies: Lithium batteries should be stored in a refrigerator.
But reader Shirley A.--who is an audiologist--mentioned that this is a
bad idea for zinc air batteries. She notes: "...do not store zinc
air batteries in the
refrigerator.
The
batteries are inert until the tab is removed. Once air reaches the hole(s)
on the back of the batteries, they become activated, hence "air-activated" batteries.
The humidity in a refrigerator will cause the protective tabs to become loose,
thus allowing air to reach the holes and activating the batteries.They will
all go dead in a short time. Zinc air batteries should be stored in a cool,
dry environment, like a dresser drawer. For the same reason, don't store your
batteries
(or your hearing aids) in the bathroom."
« "Show Your Colors"--Recognition Flags for Post-Collapse Travel in Groups? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
A Farmer's Perspective on Combating Crime in South Africa, by Joe Ordinary Voortrekker
Although we in South Africa do not live in a TEOTWAWKI situation,
we routinely have to deal with constant attempts to appropriate life, possessions,
and
freedom that could be good training for a
TEOTWAWKI
situation. The following are some real life insights as to what and how we
handle these regular attempts at property liberation on our homesteads and
surrounds.
We are fortunate to live well outside of South Africa’s largest city,
our community is isolated and not visible from any main road. To a point where
people that live in nearby areas do not know where our entry road is, and have
to be given detailed instructions on how to get to our community. (I’ve
even had a 20 year resident of an adjacent area tell me outright that I’m
lying and no such road/area exists. What a great place to be!) There are a
total of 24 families in our area, not all participate in the community [security
effort] and only one
other family has a preparedness mindset. Almost every member of the community
is very private and the idea of personal privacy and property rights is taken
very seriously. Of the 24 families there are nine that take an active role
in protecting the community totaling 15 men. Our community is situated in
a blind
valley with a single very defendable entrance, there are however two additional
tracks that can be used for either a north or south escape route if you know
where to find them.
Most of our threats consist of one or more of the following.(In no particular
order) Stock
theft, cable
theft, fencing or dropper [(cattle chute)] theft, house breaking,
armed home invasions, rape and other crimes. There is also a marked increase
in produce theft (directly from fields) in recent months.
What also needs to be understood is that in the rural areas there are specific
crime ‘seasons’. Outright you can peg the December/January and
Easter periods as a very high probability of stock theft, then the last two
weeks in any month with increases in housebreaking and implement/equipment
theft.
Our analysis of this suggests that people are looking for meat in December/January
and April for family [summer and fall] feasts. And at month end they are looking
for a bit of cash to tide them over till payday or they have just plain run
out
of
cash
and need
more.
The number one livestock theft item is sheep, they are simple to lift onto
ones shoulders and carry off without a sound (sheep make no noise at night
if manhandled). Cattle
are the next most frequent target. of theft. How this
is achieved is the cattle are often liberated early evening (20h00 – 21h00)
and a team of thieves will work as follows. A Cutter will walk ahead and cut
any
fencing
about 100m
in
front
of the cattle, then three drivers will drive the cattle along the chosen route,
typically the hocks are slashed so that the cattle cannot run, they are then
prodded with sharp sticks or bicycle spokes in the correct direction. The animals
are generally butchered in the veld and
only choice portions are taken, or they are herded directly to a township/village
for slaughter. They are often
herded over 20 or 30 km in one night. Making track and trace is sometimes extremely
difficult. The sad thing about this is that if you do recover your animals
before they
slaughter them, the animals need to be put down anyway. We have
even had a situation where large ‘steaks’ were cut out of living
cattle and they were left to be found in the morning. Goats and Pigs are very
low down on the list as they will vocally announce their displeasure at being
manhandled. This
PDF describes another very well known way of transporting
stolen stock long distances.
With regards to implements and equipment theft. Very high on the list are hand
tools, power tools, generators, water pumps, borehole pumps, and electric gate
motors--in fact anything that can be pawned or sold off quickly. A new phenomenon
that has recently reared its head is that people are stealing metal gates and
droppers, we have yet to catch one in the act, however we believe it’s
for the scrap metal market. New fencing is also quick to go, especially weld
mesh and Bonnox-type
fencing. As it’s easy to roll up and cart away,
and has a quick resale value on the open market if priced right.
To counteract the effects of crime in our area we have established for a number
of years now a very effective farm watch system that includes the following.
(I will cover each point separately to provide insight into the logic and tactics):
Highly visible motorised patrols: The main point of these is to provide a “show
of force” and it is mainly used as a deterrent during low crime times.
The use of vehicle mounted Search/spot lights is heavily employed. One of the
largest drawbacks is that ‘they’ can see you coming and a) either
scamper off to find a quieter area to harass, or b) just drop into the grass
that is typically 1 metre (3 feet) high, and then effectively become invisible.
Another drawback
is that once the patrol ends this can be easily be seen, due to a
lack of lights sweeping the roads and properties.
Foot patrols: These are undertaken specifically during times
of harassment, or in peak crime times. Foot patrols generally consist of two
separate patrols
of minimum three individuals each, contact via radio is available but only
used as and when required. A preset route is followed, there are a total of
nine
routes, typically only four are covered by both patrols in an evening. Each
route has
specific LP/OPs developed
as well as caches of food/water and medical [supplies] on the longer routes.
Some routes are never more than about 300
- 500 meters from a lot of the homesteads and others can take one over two
kilometers
from
the nearest homestead.
LP/OPs: Generally performed on off nights where ‘nothing
is going on’.
Members will walk out onto their own properties and take up specific LP/OP
to generally [listen and] observe. This is often tied in with the final checks
on animals, stores and stables. The interesting thing is you are able to track
the movement
of an individual(s) from well over two kilometres away, just by listening to
the night sounds of animals. Dogs, Plovers,
Geese, Guinea
Fowl, and peacocks, frogs/toads,
and others can all give an indication as to what is happening in the area.
We have got to a point where just by listening to the sounds of the local critters,
both wild and domestic, we are able to make a good judgment call if a impromptu
patrol needs to rustled up. Most evenings we can track the return of staff
members and labourers as they walk back from the local shebeens.
Contact Routes: These are predefined routes that each farmer will
take when a contact is established. This has worked very well for us on a number
of occasions
leading to the arrest of six individuals and the peppering of at least three
that have escaped, with bird shot liberally inserted into their Gluteus
maximus.
The adage in our area is not to have someone die on your property, rather wound
[them] and let them spread the word. It the best advertising you can get for
a peaceful nights rest. They also cannot go to a hospital as this raises questions.
We
have heard via the grapevine of one individual that had a friend digging around
in his butt with a piece of bent piece of wire to try extricate shot. Somehow
I don’t think he is coming back. [JWR Adds: Things are
different here in the oh-so litigious US, where wounding a miscreant is an
invitation to a huge civil lawsuit. I advise American, Canadian and British
SurvivalBlog readers: Don't pull the trigger unless your life is immediately
threatened.]
Basically there are two types of contact:
1) Farm based. When there is an attack on a particular farm then the alarm
is raised via, land line, cell phone, radio or audible sirens. Information
is generally given to wives for relay, as husbands prepare, as to what portion
of the farmstead is threatened. A ring is established around the farm with
selected individuals providing direct support at the farmstead, once the farmstead
is cleared then the ring closes along predefined routes. BTW, it is vitally
important that the outer ring is maintained, as often a lot more is seen from
the ring than from the farmstead. In addition all lights on all farms get turned
off, specifically to assist the guys with Night Vision, but we have found that
those that don’t, can also see better without distracting ambient light
sources. Lastly, the explicit rule is that if it’s your farm / livestock
under attack then you are not to leave the house! There is
no need for a hostage situation or to allow for a penetration of your family's
security, or God forbid
a friendly fire incident. That is why you have neighbours.
2) Infrastructure based: Typically this is cable
theft, we are very proud of
the fact that we are one of the few rural areas in South Africa that has had
no interruption of our telecoms service in well over 18 months. We have taken
the initiative to install alarms on our lines that activate as soon as there
is a voltage drop. ([Caused by a] cut line) This triggers a response where
farmers scramble to cover specific points. The amazing thing is how fast
these cable
thieves
can move. They cut and drag 150-200 metres of 50-pair cable well over 500 meters
in a matter minutes. It took us a while to get our attack honed, but
now we have a 100% strike rate and no more cable theft.
Most patrol members are armed with Shotguns and occasionally with a sidearm,
a 2-way radio, torch, Night Vision if they have the gear, and a small first
aid kit is carried by one member. A handful of heavy duty cable ties [for use
as handcuffs are also carried.
Each member is also at liberty to equip themselves with what they feel is necessary.
What we find is that new members tend to go all out on kit, and it only takes
about two weeks for them to start reducing the amount of glory kit they carry
to the minimum. (We actually have a pool bet going on the number of patrols
walked with full kit, we always do the two longest for them on the trot. Hey,
we need some fun.)
Some additional information, many thieves will plan their attacks long in advance
with scouting and intel well sourced, either via the local labourer population
or via direct observation. One of the most common and disturbing warning signs
that you will get, is that dogs
are being poisoned in the area. Depending on
the poison used, it will generally be a fast acting (in a matter of minutes)
the most common poison is Aldicarb
or Temik a restricted use agricultural pesticide.
Luckily we have not had any incidents in our area, but all around us there
are reports of multiple dogs going down in a single night.
Finally, one of the benefits of living in [the old] South Africa (pre-1994)
was conscription, with two years of compulsory military service,
for most straight
out of school.
This
has put most of the ‘older’ (I say that with care as I’m
yet to hit 45) members of our group with a military service background and
we have been through some of the Border
War. All of this helps to set the tone
of patrols and provides the training and discipline for younger members.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: It's a Scary World Out There: Fearsome Attack Hens »
Six Letters Re: Home Invasion Robbery Countermeasures--Your Mindset and Architecture
Greetings Mr. Rawles,
I read your blog everyday and am learning so much. Thanks for your dedication
to helping prepare us for the future.
In reference to the recent article on home security, we lived in Argentina
for three years and we could all learn from their security measures. The first
house we lived in had steel shutters, as did everyone in the neighborhood,
and they were all shut at night. The doors have locks that automatically lock
when you leave the house. The small front yards usually have tall steel fences
with the same height gates. The gates were also locked at all times. Homes
that didn't have shutters of some kind, had bars on all the windows. Big dogs
were also the norm. The back yards were usually walled in by concrete block
walls sometimes 10 feet tall. At our second house, one of our neighbors had
concertina wire around the top of their walls.
It is a normal custom to clap your hands to alert someone you were at their
front gate. It would be very rude to try to enter someone's front yard without
being invited first, and is usually not possible due to the locks and dogs.
But, as new houses were being built, we were seeing less and less of the shutters
and bars, more American style houses were being built and that's a shame.
It was very difficult at first to live with these kinds of security measures,
but after awhile it became normal and comforting to know your house was secure.
Gun control is very strict and very few folks have guns, so home security was
very important.
Just wanted to share those observations with you. Thanks again for your hard
work.
Warmest Regards, - Beverly A.
Hello James Wesley, Rawles:
Feed lot panels are extremely useful for hardening windows against dynamic
entry.
For those who are not familiar with the product, feed lot panels are welded
wire product. They are typically 16 feet long. The height varies but is typically
54" high. The wire is very stiff (typically #4 or #6 gauge) and the wire
is galvanized for long life. The panels are inexpensive and semi-rigid.
We recently replaced a 13' x 69" bay window with a 60" by 60" picture
window (one pane) flanked by a couple of 60" high by 24" wide double
hung windows. Our primary goal was to increase energy efficiency by reducing
cold air infiltration during the winter and to improve our cross ventilation
during
the summer.
I had some fairly extensive conversation with the contractor regarding my desire
to have sufficient "beef" beside each window to be able to run several
5" x 1/2" eye-bolts beside each window (with the eyes of the bolts
aligned in the vertical direction), slide the trimmed-to-fit feedlot panel
over the eye-bolts, and then drop a cane bolt through the openings in the eye
bolts.
(Minor detail notes: Roof overhang requires that cane bolts be inserted from
bottom, but "drop in from top" is a more natural word picture. Also
desirable to use a cushioning material to hold panels away from frame of window
to eliminate scarring. Rubber or vinyl garden hose is a possibility.)
He was very happy to comply. Each window is framed in with 2x4s next to the
window frame, but then a 4x4 was bracketed into the top and bottom headers
immediately beside the 2X4s on each side of each of the three windows. Wood
is cheap.
Feed lot panels can be defeated. But defeating them requires time and tools...not
something typical home invaders want to expend/lug around. Feed lot panels
also help protect windows against airborne, flying trash during extreme wind
storms. They may be ugly, but they are cheap, durable and relatively easy
to install, given proper tools and some time and the foresight to have enough
wood to bolt into. - Joe H.
Jim,
I've already made numerous changes to my home and
property to thwart / limit any would be thefts and boosting the overall
security. A number of
ideas
came from your web site. Thanks.
Other than the simple measures of installing a Radio Shack microphone/speaker
and, locking the doors of my barns with snap links and walking out the front
and locking that door, I am worried for my horses if someone should try to
force their way inside and manage to stay very quiet. I'm very impressed
with my $149 Radio Shack investment, you can hear everything and my house
is 300
feet away.
Can you offer any additional advice on making barns more secure? I'm more
concerned about the horses than all of the tack and saddles. But those items
aren't cheap
either. Thanks, - Pete in Florida
JWR Replies: I do have one specific recommendation: Buy a
MURS band Dakota Alert infrared intrusion detection system. (Available from MURS
Radio, one of
our advertisers). Put one Motion Alert Transmitter (MAT) out
at the end of your driveway,
and one "watching" the front of your barn door. We
use Dakota Alerts in conjunction with matching frequency Kenwood MURS band
hand-helds here at the Rawles
Ranch on a daily basis. We have been very satisfied with their
quality and reliability. In our experience, this combination is ideal for detecting
intruders on likely avenues
of approach.
.
Dear Mr. Rawles,
First, as always, I am compelled to thank you for your service to all those
who would learn from your knowledge and efforts. My 2009 10
Cent Challenge contribution is forthcoming,
but it is only a small token of my appreciation in light of all that I have
learned from your excellent blog.
I wanted to add a note of my reality to your recent excellent comments on the
sorry state of home architecture in our country today. I live in a typical
recent-construction, middle class, Metro Atlanta home with a brick front facade,
and Hardiplank (a concrete-like product molded to look like wood siding) on
the remaining three sides. It is essentially three stories, with a "daylight
basement" comprising the first story. Many of the "weak links" that
you pointed out exist in my home, but we did install a fairly comprehensive
alarm system.
Last February, while my wife was at work and I was taking my son to daycare
(it was 11:15 a.m.), thugs broke into our house by kicking through the basement
wall! Evidently, the crooks suspected, or noticed, our alarm system, and tried
to bypass it by going through the wall. It would have worked if the dummies
hadn't opened the basement door preparing to depart with their loot. Of course,
opening the door set the alarm off, and they fled never having made it out
of the basement. They did steal an old rifle that I had recently bought, and
had left in a storage closet awaiting a good cleaning. All in all, we were
very fortunate.
I write not to simply share my story (which is, unfortunately, not very uncommon),
but to point out what I learned:
1. Though Hardiplank, and similar products, have many virtues, resistance to
invasion is not one of them.The concrete feel and appearance gives a false
sense of security. I was shocked to learn that the only thing between my "inner
sanctum" and the bad guys was the Hardiplank, fiberboard sheathing, and
drywall! Even if your 1st story sheathing were 5/8" plywood it would present
a much more formidable barrier!
2. If I had heeded my instincts, the burglary could have been avoided. I try
to live in "condition yellow", though I slip into white more than
I would like. That morning, while buckling my toddler into the car, I noticed
a rough-looking young man walking slowly up the sidewalk. By the time I had
buckled my seatbelt, he was ambling back down the street in the opposite direction.
All of the alarms in my head went off, but I didn't call the police to investigate
(something that they encouraged me to do in the future while discussing the
event). I did, however, step back inside and turn on the alarm, which I didn't
usually do for such short trips (things are different now). If I hadn't turned
on the alarm, I would have probably walked right into a home invasion in progress
(stupidly in condition white!) after dropping my son off. As it was, as soon
as I got the call from the monitoring service, I knew exactly what had happened,
and who had done it! During the frantic 3 mile drive home, my main concern
was, "what will I do if I arrive before the police?" At the time,
I had no firearm with me, which leads me to my final point.
3. Any time you walk into your home [after an absence] in condition white,
with no way to defend yourself, you invite disaster. Yes, I know it can be
terribly
stressful
to
admit to yourself that our society has "come to this", and some people
would rather just play the odds and hope it doesn't happen to them. I feel
that God was watching over me that day (by the way, the police were on site
when I got home - it had only been 20 minutes since I left the house) and gave
me a second chance. I guess I could remain in condition white, and hope it
doesn't happen again, but I have responsibilities. God gave me a second chance,
and I am committed to learning from this experience. You'd better believe that
I will arrive home in condition yellow to orange, looking for any hint that
something is awry - especially if my family is in tow! Oh yeah, and my next
house is going to be as solid as I can afford, and then some!
I hope you and yours had a wonderful Christmas, and will have a terrific new
year. Best Wishes, - SH in Georgia
James;
I have been an advocate for survivors of violent crimes. I would like
to point out some things that I have been tracking for almost a year now. (I
have 'home invasions" as a google search alert and get messages on this
topic many times a day). First, I have noticed that most of these invaders
are not so much interested in carting away ill-gotten booty from the residence
that they have invaded as much as the first object is to terrorize and torture
those in the dwelling. This is a major change in the high level of deprived
violence of these burglars who are now being reported as "home invaders".
The attacks are sadistic, whereas, twenty years ago true sadistic attacks
were more rare as the goal seemed to be to steal and leave. Second, these sadistic
home invasions are world wide. I have not yet figured out why this is so. It
is, however, concerning that no place seems safe from this bizarre rise in
sadistic violence. Perhaps it can be linked to violent video games? I am not
sure what else could link these acts world wide. Third, unlike violent home
crimes in years past, the home invaders are attacking during the hours when
it is more likely that the residents are home. (Most of these
invasions seem to take place between 11 PM and 5 AM). Clearly, unlike in early
times when
the criminal element wanted to avoid the residents, this new class of thugs
want that violent encounter.
I think this does require that decent folks to have a change in understanding
what is taking place. These criminals are not just getting the pleasure of
taking your property but they want to cause you and your family extreme fear,
terror, and pain. Passive conduct by the victims that might have allowed these
thugs to rob your home and leave you alone might have worked twenty years ago,
but I think today's home invaders first literally will want a pound of your
flesh. On a positive note, I have also read of numerous residents who have
successfully fended off the invaders by being properly protected within their
homes. I am 'surprised" that the media doesn't seem to do much coverage
of these heroic deeds of the victim defending himself or family members from
these sadistic invasion. - Advocate for Survivors
of Violent Crimes
Dear Mr. Rawles.
Regarding your post on Tuesday December 30, titled "Letter Re: Home
Invasion Robbery Countermeasures". I would like to see you elaborate on
the "Countermeasures" portion of the title. Specifically, could you
show some real examples that people could use as "force multipliers" similar
to this . Maybe you can do a post on with and without grid power in SHTF scenarios.
For example I live in a suburb of a city of about 80,000 people. I live on
a corner lot and have a fenced in back yard. What low-tech methods could I
deploy
to
allow full coverage around the perimeter of my property to signal of coming
trouble. It would help if the ideas were designed to not create an abundance
of false alarms and not alert the surrounding neighborhoods like a trip alarm.
I don't have a retreat location but I'm getting my finances in order to allow
a property purchase soon. If TSHTF tomorrow, I would need some simple ideas
to keep my family safe as long as possible.
BTW, I read your "Patriots" novel
and it was awesome! I am about half way thorough your "Rawles
Gets You Ready" course and it too
is great. Thanks, - Steve F. in Louisiana
JWR Replies: A corner lot is problematic. Depending on the
landscaping that is prevalent in your neighborhood, if it would not look
too out of the ordinary then you might consider planting a
"decorative" thorny hedge around as much of your perimeter as
possible, and install a
gate across the front of your driveway. Make both the
maximum height that you can get away with,
without being branded as the Neighborhood Paranoid Poster Boy. The gate should
have a spiked top of some sort, to discourage gate jumpers. Just inside the
gate, position a passive infrared Motion Alert Transmitter (MAT) for a Dakota
Alert. You should also plant thorny
bushes below each of your windows.
Motion-activated floodlights are inexpensive and very easy to install.(They
are available at home improvement and hardware stores such as Home Depot and
Lowe's.) If the power grid goes down, you really should bug out ASAP, but if
you are forced to stay, then solar-powered floodlights might
suffice. (But note that their reviews mention that they have a short service
life. So it is best to just test them but not mount them outdoors until needed.)
Under those circumstances, a pair of night vision goggles would be a must.
(And if you have those, you might want to retrofit your floodlights to use
infrared bulbs. Being battery
powered, your
Dakota
Alert
system
will
continue
to
operate without grid power.
But
of
course keep plenty of spare batteries on had for all of your flashlights
and other home security and communications electronics.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Comparing the Big Three Battle Rifle Chamberings in the United States, by Kyrottimus »
Letter Re: Speeding Coyote Hunters Arrested in Illinois
Mr. Rawles,
I came across this today, and thought you'd be interested: Police:
WIU students arrested with cache of weapons.
The key points are:
1.) They were stopped for speeding and their truck searched
2.) Both men had gun permits
3.) They were arrested for possession of firearms and ones' home searched
4.) Both are now facing legal battles - [even though] no laws [other than the
speed limit] have
apparently
been
broken
Blessings & Good Health, - Christine
JWR Replies: A few of my observations:
Did you notice the
box for the FN FS2000? It looks like they had a big gun-buying budget.
If they were indeed just out hunting, then why were they wearing body armor?
That seems a bit odd, but they were certainly in their rights to do so.
I have my doubts about the article's mention of a "silencer." Odds
are that either a. ) It wasn't really a suppressor--just a misidentified muzzle
brake, or flash hider, or b.) It was an NFA-registered suppressor.
The bottom
line is
that they may
not have been doing anything illegal, other than exceeding the posted speed
limit. (Although I have no idea if it legal to carry a loaded firearm in a
private automobile in Illinois like in The Unnamed Western State
(TUWS), where I live. Knowing Illinois, I suspect that they've restricted that
right.)
It is curious that the illinois journalist mischaracterized the four guns
(one rifle and one pistol per man) as a "weapons cache". That is a pretty
modest quantity for a "cache". In Texas, in fact, that would be considered
traveling "lightly
armed."
And on the lighter side, here is a bit of conjecture, from your friendly Editor:
Can you imagine if this had happened in Wyoming instead of Illinois?
The exchange probably would have gone something like this:
Deputy: "Do you know why I pulled you over?
Student: "I think it was because I was going 70 in a 55 zone.The 70 zones
are so much more common, so that's what feels like a normal speed to me."
Deputy: "You boys need to slow down, especially after dark. Consider
this a warning.
Student: "My apologies, officer. I'll do my best to keep a closer eye
on the speedometer."
Deputy: "Whatcha boys doing out here with those NVGs?
Student: "Huntin' coyotes."
Deputy: "Had any luck? I hear the price of pelts is was up this year.
Oh, you should watch for bobcats, too. I hear those pelts are fetching $800
apiece for nice ones. Now don't forget to slow down. Good luck with your hunt,
boys."
« Letter Re: 2,000+ Antique Books on Farming Available on-Line |Main| Note from JWR: »
Sabotage and Counter-Sabotage, by A. Farm Graduate
The purpose of this article is to put another skill (if not a skill, perhaps
a seed) in the mental toolkit of preparedness-oriented individuals. Although
not an exhaustive study on clandestine operations, this article will give
you a glimpse into an advantage seeking two part mindset – sabotaging
the enemy’s equipment and keeping your equipment from getting sabotaged!
It is assumed the condition under which this article would find use is the
end of the world as we know it (TEOTWAWKI). Please don’t go
do something listed in this article that you don’t have the skill or
legal right to do.
You want to ensure the survival of yourself and your loved ones. I’m
sure you’ve made preparations to do so, right? You have to keep your
equipment preparations running to get a tactical or survival advantage from
them. You must learn to see your equipment through the eyes of a saboteur.
This will allow you to spot equipment vulnerabilities. Why would anyone want
to sabotage your gear? They would do it for the same reasons they would threaten
you in the first place. Their lack of morals, planning, and diligence, brought
to the surface by a desperate situation, leads them to persecute you for gain.
Your equipment stands in their way. The reason could be that they don’t
want you to have anything they don’t have!
Some may consider sabotage a little too proactive – too dangerous even.
We’re talking nightmarish end-of-the-world stuff here. We’re talking
about using any and every tool in the box to keep our loved ones safe. Sabotage
is a no-brainer if you are gutsy enough to use recon teams or actually make
an armed stand. Once you get past the negative aura of the word “sabotage,” you
realize it is indeed a valuable skill. Why would we ever want to sabotage someone’s
equipment? It is the same reason that causes us to buy expensive battle rifles
and copious quantities of ammunition – to deny the enemy the ability
to take our freedom and lives. If you do not maintain or gain the tactical
advantage, will not the enemy gain it? What good is a stockpile of all the
latest gear or a heap of brain power and courage if you simply refuse to fully
use it? Learn to see the enemy’s equipment through the eyes of a saboteur
to reap huge tactical rewards. Perhaps the elimination of the enemy’s
advantage will spare you from having to take his life. Sabotage can have a
large psychological impact. A discovered act of sabotage lets the enemy know
that they are not safe. It will throw them “off their game.”
You can hide in your retreat, counting bullets while sporting only your lucky
camouflage boxers. However, you wouldn’t need that expensive battle rifle
and all that ammunition if no one could ever find you. You will have a confrontation
with a hostile organized group. It’s too small a world with too few morals.
Ruthlessness is surely a trait that would allow said hostile group to survive
in lieu of preparedness. They’ll be roving the wasteland looking for
more supplies and victims. Their survival would be evidence of their pillaging
proficiency. As we all learned in grade school, bad people don’t fight “fair.” There
will most likely be more people in their group than in your group. As we get
older, we realize that fighting “fair” really means fighting with
a handicap. There must be some pseudo-religious notion in the subconscious
mind of upright people that tells them anything remotely perceived as “sneaky” is
wrong. When someone threatens the life of you and your loved ones, then you
must do whatever it takes to protect yourselves. This is why survivalists who
actually
survive TEOTWAWKI will use tools like sabotage.
Types of Sabotage
The first type of sabotage is covert. That is, the target does not discover
the non-working machine for some time or discovers the non-working machine
but does not immediately suspect foul play. This type of sabotage requires
the most skill, time, and planning. A lightly armed team of two lookouts
and one technician, each fully blacked-out with NVGs and good noise
discipline, could accomplish a fantastically effective covert sabotage. One
person with nerves of steel, a pile of patience, and the proper motivation
can work wonders too! Some of the reasons for covert sabotage are listed
below.
1. Keeping the target from knowing there is a hostile force in the area.
2. Attempting to avoid retaliation from target.
3. Extra time for escape and evasion.
4. Attacking the target right before it discovers its equipment doesn’t
work (surprise!).
The second type of sabotage is overt. It could be loud, fast, and ugly. It
could also be just loud, just fast, or just ugly. If this type of sabotage
had a mascot, it’d be a sledgehammer. Once the target gets near the machine,
it’s red alert time. The target may even hear or see the sabotage happen.
It doesn’t matter; you just want his machine out of the game! Overt sabotage
is mostly the stuff of last ditch seat-of-the-pants defenses. Some of the reasons
for overt sabotage are listed below.
1. Approaching enemy vehicles.
2. Quickly shutting down enemy communications.
3. Diversions.
Covert Vehicular Sabotage
Covert vehicular sabotage can range from slowing the target down to keeping
them from moving at all. Probably the most cunning covert design is that which
leaves a small team stranded some distance from base camp. The designer would
have a good opportunity to ambush the stranded team. The following list is
a sample of what can be done. It is mostly arranged from mild to wild. Not
all items are applicable to all vehicles. Some of these items may require the
use of an “improvised” car door key. Some vehicles have the hood
release cable located directly behind the grille, which can be manipulated
to open the hood without gaining access to the interior of the vehicle. Remember,
it is assumed that the perpetrator has put some thought and planning into situations
like these:
- Water in the fuel tank. What is more innocuous than this?
- Loosened valve
stem on one of the tires - just enough so that the tire will be flat in the
morning.
- Replacement of a critical fuse (fuel pump, ignition) with a blown
fuse of the same value.
- Cut on bottom (non visible) side of main engine belt
deep enough to reach the interior cords. This action removes most of the
belt’s tensile strength
and creates a stress riser in the belt. The result is no alternator,
water pump, power steering, or AC – oh my.
- Loosened or removed lower
radiator hose clamp. Coolant will leak out under pressure when the engine
gets warm (away from base camp that is). Loosened oil plug or filter. Oil
will leak more freely once it is warm (away from base camp that is).
- Loosened
battery cable. This could turn into a nasty surprise if the battery is emitting
hydrogen when the sparks start.
- Un-plugged vacuum lines.
- Modified ignition timing. Distributor equipped
vehicles only.
- Plastic electrical connectors un-plugged from critical sensors – just
enough to break electrical contact. A look of authenticity is given when
the small connector retainer arm is broken.
- Switched spark plug wires that
are similar in length. Not for coil-per-plug vehicles.
- Bleach in the fuel
tank. Once cranked, the engine will eventually sputter and stop. (Mythbusters rule!).
Examples of Overt Vehicular Sabotage Here is a partial list of the easy, ugly,
quick, and dirty.
- Slashed tires
- Cut fuel lines
- Cut transmission lines
- Cut coolant hoses
- Cut under-hood wires
- Large holes put in the radiator or fuel tank
- High-powered rifle bullets
fired into the engine block or transmission of approaching enemy vehicles
- Explosives
wired to the ignition switch circuit
Examples of Stationary Equipment Sabotage
- Cut power wires
- Cut control wires
- Cut antenna signal and guy wires
- Loosened electrical connections – done
when equipment is de-energized
- Water or dirt placed in bearings
- Removal of chain master link retainers – done
while equipment is stopped
Protecting Your Equipment from Sabotage
We have explored some sabotage possibilities. Hopefully you will start examining
your equipment for possible vulnerabilities. It is not possible to list
every conceivable scenario here like a playbook, therefore, it is important
you learn
to use your imagination and think like a saboteur. Use the following list
as
a starting point:
- Know your equipment
- Inspect your equipment often
- Don’t leave equipment where it is visible
- if possible
- Always lock every lock (sidearms excluded)
- Mark the head of bolts and the
bolted equipment with aligned paint dots for indication of tampering
- Use fasteners
with tamper resistant heads (High security bits are uncommon)
- On vehicles, cover the lower engine
compartment openings with expanded metal
- Run power and communications wiring
underground and have it enter a building through the floor thereby minimizing
outside exposure
- Run critical wires in conduit
- Run “dummy” wires in plain sight
while hiding the route of the actual critical wires
- Install an alarm with
security lights and motion detectors in critical areas
- Use dogs to alert
you to suspicious activity
- Use sentries to watch the premises
- Move the equipment to a secure shelter
or build a secure shelter around the equipment
Use layered security (combination of all) for the most effective setup. -
A. Farm Graduate
« Letter Re: SurvivalBlog is a Money Saver |Main| The Practice Load-Up, by Papa Papa »
Letter Re: Advice on an Inexpensive Solar Battery Charger?
Hi Mr. Rawles:
In your comments to the family living in Trinidad & Tobago, you wrote: "As
your budget allows, buy a small solar charger for your AA and AAA NiMH batteries."
Do you have personal experience with any of these solar chargers? Can you recommend
any? Many thanks, - Larry T.
JWR Replies: Depending on your budget, solutions can run from "micro",
to "mini", to "maxi." These
inexpensive solar chargers sold by Ready Made Resources (one of our long-time
advertisers) work fine as a "micro" solution., but be advised that
they are not waterproof. I recommend setting these up on a windowsill, inside a
south-facing window. In my experience, it is best to buy at least two of these
chargers, since they charge slowly, via "trickle charging".
Moving up to the "mini" solution, there are these
6.5 watt flexible (amorphous), photovoltaic (PV) panels. Even modest-size
PV systems with a small deep cycle battery bank can make a huge difference
in providing small scale lighting and battery charging for crucial security
measures such
as
radios
and night vision equipment. There are so many LED lights, battery
charging trays, and various pieces of electronic gear available that will
run directly from 12 VDC or from a DC-to-DC
converter, that you might be able to skip the expense of a full-up system
with a large AC inverter.
If you have a bigger budget, Ready Made Resources (RMR) and other vendors
can also supply larger
pre-packaged PV power systems, either with or without an AC power inverter.
(Without an inverter, they will provide only 12 volt or 24 volt DC power.)
RMR even has experience designing "maxi" systems--6
KW or larger.
(BTW, they offer free alternate energy system design and consulting.)
Keep in mind that starting January 1st, grid-tied
PV systems will be eligible for a 30% Federal tax credit in the US. Many
states also offer their own tax credits. In some states such as Florida
and California, the combined Federal and state tax credits may reduce your
expense by as much as 70%, when all is said and done.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Three Letters Re: Family Food Security for a Recession or Depression »
Two Letters Re: Mr. Romeo's Retreat Owner Profile
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I read Mr. Romeo's retreat plans, and I would like to add
a couple of things to his preparations list. The one glaring omission
I see in
his list is a lack
of HF communications
gear. VHF radios
are line of sight communications, which is great if you're planning on
staying within range of the coast. If he plans
on heading out to deeper waters though, HF gear becomes a lifeline to
Pacific maritime nets, weather information, and other useful resources.
Even if
he doesn't plan on transmitting, an HF receiver would allow him to listen
to
shortwave broadcasts. Radio Australia and Radio New Zealand broadcast
to the Pacific
almost around the clock, as well as other world services. I would think
he could even tune into a lot of American medium wave AM stations
at night as these radio waves carry well over water.
I think his case might be one of the few where an upgrade to a .50 caliber
[BMG] rifle might be warranted as well. If the coasts of East Africa
are any guide, the high seas could be an extremely dangerous place to
be
after a major
disruption. The 50 caliber would make his a vessel that most pirates
wouldn't want to bother with.
Just my $.02 worth, adjusted for inflation. Keep up the great work! -
Tim in Baltimore
Hello,
Thanks for all you do: I read your recent advice to a mariner to buy
several parachute flares if they are within his budget. At ~$70 USD per flare
that's a bit
steep when compared to buying a east-bloc (mine's Polish,) 26.5mm
flare gun as seen here for $30. These flare guns are not considered deadly
weapons by the BATFE, so there is no restriction on their shipment by mail.
Furthermore, a
box of 10 Czech army surplus white parachute flares will run $40. [Although
they don't reach the same altitude and are not as bright as the ones that JWR
suggested,] this would allow anyone to have 10 flares for the price of one.
Multiple colors are also available.
For full disclosure, I have no connection to the "Ammo to Go" company
other than being a regular customer of theirs who is quite happy with the service
and their prices, and I recommend them to friends. BTW, I recently got 20 rounds
of AP ammo for my 8x57mm Mauser--something that is nearly impossible to find
elsewhere!) Keep on rocking in the free world! - Eminence Frontman
JWR Adds: I also own a 26.5mm flare pistol, and recommend
them. Mine is a Bundeswehr surplus P2A1, manufactured by Heckler und
Koch (HK). I should also mention that there are chamber adapters made by several
companies
that allow US-standard 12 gauge nautical flares to be fired in 26.5mm flare
pistols. One manufacturer of these adapters that I recommend is Tactical
Innovations. And, BTW, the same company makes excellent milled aluminum
25-round magazines for Ruger 10/22 rimfire rifles. My family has extensively
tested
one of these
magazines here at the Rawles
Ranch and found that they are very reliable and
trouble-free. It might be wise to order a few of these magazines before the
upcoming election.
Any new ban on full capacity magazines will sure cause prices to triple overnight.
« Letter Re: Cemeteries as G.O.O.D. Overnight Bivouacs? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Preparing for Survival Retreat Perimeter Defense, by O.F.
There may come a time when a survival retreat will need to be defended, and
a properly prepared perimeter will be key to the success of the defense. While
many survival-minded
individuals and retreat groups have likely considered the possibility of a defense scenario, many are
at a loss as to how to plan for such an situation. If the time comes, a well-thought,
methodically planned perimeter defense will hold up better than simply having “a
bunch guns and ammo.”
Fighting positions offer several advantages during perimeter defense. Proper
positions allow the defenders to observe possible threats with reduced risk
of detection, protect the defenders from attack, and serve as a point of reference for reporting events to other members
of the retreat. They also form a buffer between the outside world and the retreat.
Fighting would-be attackers at “arm's length” is preferred to fighting
them inside the retreat, because it keeps the threat away from important assets
and personnel.
Fighting position placement will vary widely depending on terrain, but should
always be done with 360 degree security as the goal. Follow the acronym OCOKA
[Observation and fields of fire, Cover and Concealment, Obstacles, Key terrain,
and Avenues
of approach } when considering
terrain:
Observation and Fields of Fire – Positions need to be located so that
the area outside the perimeter may be observed in all directions. Fields of
fire/observation (or sectors) should overlap. For example, if one position
is observing 12 o'clock to four o'clock, then the next position might observe
three o'clock to seven o'clock. Other positions would cover similar sectors
ensuring the entire “clock” is observed.
Cover and Concealment – Cover is protection from projectiles or other
forms of attack. Natural cover, such as logs, dirt berms, or stone are advantageous
in a rural or remote environment since they blend in and are often readily available. Man-made cover could include
vehicles, retaining walls, sand bags, furniture, or dumpsters. Concealment
is protection from observation. Good positions offer defenders a place to hide to avoid being detected and blend
in with their environments.
Obstacles – Obstacles force attackers to slow down, stop, or change
direction when trying to approach a fighting position. Some natural obstacles
include downed trees, cliffs, ravines, streams, boulders, and embankments.
Some man-made obstacles include fences, road barricades, concertina wire, parked
vehicles, debris piles, berms, and ditches.
Key terrain – Key terrain is any piece of terrain which offers a definite
advantage to whoever occupies it. For example, a hill overlooking the retreat
would provide obvious advantages for anyone wanting to defend or attack it.
Other key terrain features might include intersections of roads or paths leading
to the retreat, areas affording excellent cover or concealment, or supply storage
buildings.
Avenues of approach – Positions should be able to monitor the roads,
paths, waterways and open areas which offer access to the retreat. Attackers
are much more likely to come up a driveway than through a forest heavily overgrown
with brush. The farther the visibility on avenues of approach, the more warning
defenders will have.
After determining where to emplace fighting positions, available personnel
must be taken into consideration. If only two or three people will be defending
the perimeter, then it may not make sense to build a dozen positions. Even with a dozen people, not everyone will be
able to man the positions all the time. Everyone needs to rest some time, so
personnel will need to man the positions in shifts. In such a scenario it would probably be better to setup half a dozen fighting
positions which could each be occupied by two people at times if needed. If
the situation necessitates more fighting positions than available personnel can occupy, then decoys can be placed in unmanned positions.
Equipment will also be a factor in preparing fighting positions. A backhoe
can easily dig a foxhole in mere minutes, whereas it may take an hour or more
with e-tools or spades. There may only be enough sandbags on hand to fortify a few positions. Different types of weapons
work better in some locations than in others. Don't put the only sniper rifle
on the retreat at a position that will be guarding a 100-meter approach up
a ravine if there is a position overlooking half a mile of road leading to
the driveway. Yours should balance caliber, range, and rate of fire around
the perimeter where they will be most effective.
Once the terrain, equipment and personnel considerations have been made, the
type of fighting position should be selected. As there is an inverse relationship
between the protection offered by a position and the time it takes to construct, the type of position chosen will
depend on the opportunity cost between the two. The basic types of fighting
positions suited for most retreats will be the hasty, the one-man position, and the foxhole. Each will be described briefly here.
For more detailed information, see the following US Army Field Manuals: FM
7-8 (Infantry Rifle Platoon and Squad) andFM 3-21.9 (The SBCT Infantry Rifle Platoon and Squad).
Hasty positions – These positions consist of nothing more than a shallow
trench just large enough for a defender to lay prone. The hasty offers no overhead
protection and little protection to the front or flanks, but it is the quickest
to construct. If there is plenty of time to prepare, then pick a different
option. Ideally, one position should consist of two trenches aligned in a V
so that two people may occupy it and cover a wider sector (each prone in one
leg of the V).
One-man positions – These positions are usually holes just large enough
for one person. Cover and concealment can be added to protect the defender.
Positions with only one person are the not as desirable as positions with two
or more because they leave one person responsible for an entire sector. If
something should happen to that one person, then the perimeter would have a
gap. If using one-man positions, locate them within site of each other.
Foxholes – Possibly the most recognized fighting positions, foxholes
are two-man pits which are the ideal choice for perimeter security. Foxholes
should be dug approximately two meters by half a meter and armpit-deep to the
tallest defender (shorter individuals will have to stand on something). This
will ensure the best cover and natural shooting positions will be afforded
to all personnel. Cover and concealment should be added to the fronts and sides
of the hole, leaving the two front corners somewhat open for observation/fire.
Create a sector sketch for each position. Draw a pie wedge which represents
what the position's field of observation/fire looks like from the perspective
of the person occupying it. Include direction and distance notations. Draw in trees, buildings or other obstructions and
label dead space which cannot be viewed behind these obstructions. This information
can be used for planning interlocking sectors of fire with other positions. Post a copy of the sketch in the fighting
position, so that anyone occupying it has an idea of what they are responsible
for watching and where the trouble spots are.
Also, keep a copy or each position's sketch at the retreat command post (CP)
for “big
picture” planning and situational awareness.
Fighting positions on the perimeter, once established, should be continually
improved. Sectors [of security responsibility] should be cleared of objects
limiting lines of site. Cover should be added to the front, sides, rear, and
top of the positions. Camouflage should be checked by walking out 50 to 100
meters
and observing the position; if it doesn't blend well with the background it
will have to be improved. Communication equipment should be added. TA-312 field
telephones or similar closed-circuit devices are a good choice. If practical,
stock fighting positions with first aid kits, ammunition, water and other supplies.
Details and changes should be added to sector sketches.
Crawl trenches can be added between fighting positions for a safe way to move
between them.
After fighting positions are well-established, extend the perimeter with obstacles.
Put concertina wire or brush 50 to 150 meters beyond fighting positions. Add
serpentine barriers or speed bumps to roads or paths. Fell trees across unused
avenues of approach. Put up fences. Anything that makes the perimeter harder
to breach should be considered.
Early warning systems alert defenders to a possible attack. It's better to
have some advance notice that someone is coming than to be caught by surprise.
Some early warning systems are active (require personnel to function). Once such system is a listening post/observation
post (LP/OP).
LP/OPs are positions which are strategically placed outside the perimeter in
a locations which offer observation of a likely line of attack. The object
of LP/OPs is usually not to engage attackers, but rather to communicate back
to defenders on or inside the perimeter about suspicious activity or pending
attacks before trouble reaches the perimeter. Since communication is an LP/OPs
biggest weapon, each one should have at least two forms of communication if
available. LP/OPs should be camouflaged to the maximum extent possible. Individuals
manning the LP/OP should be well disciplined at light and noise discipline
to further avoid detection.
Passive early warning systems do not require constant attention from personnel
to function. Ordinarily this might include a security system or even a dog
that always barks when a stranger approaches the house. A retreat perimeter defense scenario may call for some
less conventional options. Passive early warning devices need to be easy to
build, effective, and require little maintenance. Trip wires are cheap, and meet these requirements. A simple trip
wire can be constructed from "Spiderwire" (or other high-tensile, low-visibility
filament), a plastic spoon, a clothespin, and WD-1 commo wire
(other stranded pair wire, such as speaker wire, will work). Construct the
trip wire [release switches] as follows:
- Split apart a several inches of the two WD-1 elements and strip back a
few inches of the insulation on both wires.
- Pinch open the clothes pin and
wrap the exposed wire from one element of the WD-1 around one jaw of the
clothespin. Do the same with the other element
and the other jaw of the
clothespin. When the clothespin closes, the two exposed elements should
be in contact.
- Tie the clothes pin to a fixed object.
- Tie the spoon handle to a piece of
Spiderwire (you probably want to drill a small hole in the spoon handle).
- Clip
the bowl part of the spoon in the jaws of the clothespin in order to insulate
the two exposed wires from touching each other.
- Tie the other end of the
Spiderwire to another fixed object across the path, thus forming the trip
wire (it should be taut enough
to stay suspended
across the path, but not so tight that the spoon
pulls out of the clothespin).
- Connect the far end of the WD-1 to the the device
to be triggered.
Tripping the line causes the spoon to be pulled out of the clothespin and
the exposed wires to touch each other. This completes the circuit at the
far end of the wire. This simple switch can be used to activate flares, lights, or alarms.
If no alarm
circuits are available, improvised devices
like the following may be fashioned. (Check state and local laws, first!):
20 oz bottle blast alarm:
- Drill a small hole in a the top of the bottle cap.
- Insert an Estes model rocket igniter (available at hobby shops) into
the hole and seal with adhesive or melted plastic (cut off the safety seal ring from the cap
and melt with a lighter)
- Fill the cap nearly full with [FFF or FFFF black]
gunpowder.
- Pack dryer lint into the cap on top of the powder.
- Screw the cap tightly
onto the bottle.
- When the two ends of the rocket igniter are attached to
a power source (6-volt battery
should be enough) the bottle will explode with a loud bang.
Fuse flare (homemade flash pot, similar to devices available at theatrical
shops):
- Carefully break and remove the glass in a screw-in [AC electric] fuse.
(the kind used before circuit breakers were the norm in American houses).
- Use tin snips to cut 3⁄4 of the way
through the metal strip in the fuse.
- Screw the fuse into an ordinary lamp
socket (socket should be pointed upwards).
- Place photographic flash powder
(available at theatrical supply stores) in the fuse.
- When power is applied to the
fuse body, the flash powder will create a bright flash of light.
- A piece of Scotch
tape will help keep the powder in the fuse
- Use model rocket igniters or fine gauge (0000) ]
steel wool connected to the electric leads to light the fuse.
[JWR Adds: Although this improvised method will work, it
is both expensive and labor intensive. I recommend stocking up on large 1960s-vintage
photographic flashbulbs, such as Westinghouse M2 bulbs. These are available
on eBay for as little as 40 cents each, if purchased in quantity. (One recent
eBay auction was for 300 "new old stock" M2 flashbulbs and the winning
bid was just $77.) You might also be able to find similar flashbulbs via Craig's
List or Freecycle.
BTW, if you use extreme caution (gloves, safety goggle, et cetera), a hole can
be
drilled
into
some
flashbulbs,
so
that a pyrotechnic fuse can be inserted into the mesh core. This allows flashbulbs
to
double
as
fuse
igniters. Resist the urge to trickle in blackpowder to create a blasting cap.
This
is far too risky!]
Roman candles or other fireworks:
- Use model rocket igniters or [a thin twist of fine gauge (0000)] steel
wool connected to the electric leads to ignite the fuse on the firework.
- Tape
the wires securely to keep them from being dislodged.
A standard operating procedure (SOP)
should be developed after the perimeter infrastructure is in place. The best
perimeter infrastructure in the world is useless if those defending it are
uncoordinated. The SOP should address who will occupy each fighting position
and what their areas of responsibility are. It should also specify when, how,
and who will perform other critical security tasks including patrolling the
perimeter for weak spots, checking communications equipment, re-supplying or
redistributing ammunition in the event of an active engagement, treating casualties,
rotation of challenges and passwords, length of guard shifts, and anything
else that is imperative to the specific retreat. All members of the retreat
should be familiar with the SOP, and defensive scenarios should be practiced
on a
regular basis, preferably by battle drills or at least by talking through the
process with the aid of diagrams or sand tables.
While having to resort to defending a retreat is not desirable and may not
seem likely, it is still a realistic possibility. Taking the time to build
a well planned perimeter defense will be a real advantage in the event of an attack. Going without a plan could be chaotic at best,
and cost precious supplies or lives at worst.
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Letter Re: Making Alternatives to Commercial Chemical Light Sticks
Hi Jim,
I just read your novel "Patriots" and
studied the Rawles
Gets You Ready" preparedness course,
and both are excellent. [In them,] you talk about chem lights (otherwise known
as glow sticks) for in your car for changing tires, handy around campsites,
and
what
not. The shelf life on these, as you mentioned, is very short
(couple of months in a car [in a hot climate]) and they are not cheap (or maybe
just I am cheap). I
found this video on making an LED version of them that is reusable.
Seems to me like a good idea for recycling the older ones that are now dead.
You can buy LED glow sticks as well which may be cheaper and easier from
places
like this.
I have no affiliation with them and have never bought from them, but just wanted
to show an example.
Thanks, - Rutger (Temporarily in Costa Rica)
JWR Replies: Perhaps the easiest method for creating a glowing
wand was suggested by The Gun Plumber over at The FALFiles: "After the
light stick is expended, cut the end off, dump the liquid and glass ampoule
[and discard
safely], then tape the plastic tube to your Mini MagLite flashlight to make
an IR wand--the plastic tube is the IR filter! As
previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, there are some huge tactical advantages
to using infrared light sticks if you own any Starlight-type (light amplification)
night
vision
gear.
« Two Letters Re: Survival Medicine and Ditch Medicine |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Holster, Sling, and Web Gear Recommendations
Howdy Mr. Rawles!
Before I begin, I’d like to offer my congratulations on your fine novel
being republished. I’ve read it once myself, then again to my family
(I hate television, reading is good family entertainment) which should be considered
high accolades in itself. Currently my copy is in the Pacific Northwest, bound
for the midwest next, as it continues to travel the country within my circle
of friends.
I read the
posted letter by R.P. on 26 August, and associated recommendations
on holsters, slings, and web gear, and thought I’d offer some discussion
on the matter:
The main reason pistols are currently worn on thigh rigs has less
to do with ‘CDI’ [“Chicks Dig It”] factor and more
to do with accessibility. When one wears a vest festooned with pouches, the
bulk of these tend to hinder proper presentation of the pistol when the holster
is worn conventionally on the pants belt. That is, if the pants belt can even
be seen, as most wear their vests low enough to preclude such. The addition
of body armor only exacerbates the situation. The pistol, therefore, is typically
moved elsewhere – mostly onto a thigh rig or integrated into
the vest itself. This is far from a new style though – the old leather
1911 holsters
hung down from the frog clip to accomplish the same purpose.
As you noted, thigh holsters typically aren’t comfortable
while ‘on
the move’ . They are good for one thing though, and that’s an assault.
Thus the reason that laden troops are often seen with them – those troops
are equipped for an assault. Additionally, a conventionally mounted holster will
typically interfere with a ruck waist belt. If not precluding ruck use entirely,
at a minimum compromising comfort.
I’ve been working through these issues for years, and have come to some
conclusions:
No one rig will ‘do it all’. Compromises abound and are mandatory.
For the vast majority of time (as it applies to me) a light vest, at the
most, is all that is called for.
I am not personally a fan of the heritage [LC-1/LC-2 series] deuce gear. Not
that the concept is wrong, bad, or anything else – but the ALICE clips
(or as my associates and I came to call them, “meat hooks”) really
did need to be jettisoned. They rub body parts raw, blistered, and cause other
similar problems when used for any significant length of time. As well, the
magazine pouches were designed more for extreme magazine retention and protection
(security) than allowing a speedy reload, and the closure hardware on them
never was very robust.
When I had evolved my deuce gear as far as it would go, my pouches were all
lashed to the pistol belt with gutted paracord.
Using the grommets of the belt and the freshly-emptied ALICE clip slots on
the pouches, paracord can be worked
tight enough to prevent pouch movement laterally and vertically. Another consideration
is that by using paracord, there is less metal to clink against other items.
This technique worked well in my opinion, and happened to be identical to
the way – in both layout and
attaching - one of my closest friends independently evolved his LBE in Ranger
school. If one is really attached to that generation of equipment, then I recommend
this method of pouch attachment, as it is a quantum step up in comfort! Just
make sure that the knots are oriented away from your body and melted somewhat,
to prevent them from coming loose and the paracord sheathing from unraveling.
In my opinion the new generation of MOLLE load bearing vest (LBV) is superior
to the old deuce gear - of course allowing that everyone is different. Not
only are the MOLLE vests superior in comfort, but the modularity offers the
capability of repositioning your pouches to find the placement where they feel
best for that individual. I personally prefer the slightly older models that
use two buckles in the front, as opposed to a zipper. Conveniently, these vests
are low enough in cost that purchasing one per rifle, carbine, or shotgun isn’t
cost prohibitive.
Like R.P. and yourself, I have attended Front
Sight. I’ve also attended
other top-notch institutions – I typically attend at least one course
per year. As such, it should come as no surprise that after significant attempts
at finding “a better way”, I also advocate using a conventionally
mounted belt holster. It seems we prefer the same manufacturers as well – Blade-Tech
and Milt Sparks specifically. The Milt Sparks folks talked me into trying the
Summer Special II and I’ve been happily using that for the last three
years or so and actually prefer it to the original Summer Special. I would
also add Lou Alessi to the recommended holster-maker list, as I’ve been
using his leather belt holsters for the last decade or so and am quite taken
by his execution of the old Bruce Nelson design, which Lou calls the DOJ holster.
Specifically, I prefer the slightly modified version he made for Dick Heinie.
Those can still
be ordered as such directly from Lou, as Dick quit carrying
them. I’ve used several gun belts over the years, but eventually stuck
with the Riggers Belt offered by The Wilderness. I prefer mine with the optional
5-stitch reinforcement, to make the belt less flexible under load.
I have found that the key to proper pistol presentation when wearing a vest
is to have the vest ride high enough that it doesn’t interfere with the
holstered pistol; not quite as high as a chest rig, but almost. As well, when
laying out the pouches for attachment, I leave a open area on my front and
both sides; approximately 10:45 to 1:15, 2:00 to 4:30, and 7:30 to 10:00 are
all open space. This allows unimpeded access to a properly holstered pistol,
as well as the spare pistol magazines and such on the opposite hip. The open
area directly to my front is so that I can assume a solid prone position without
lying on full magazine pouches; I space the pouches such that they act as wheel
chocks when I’m in the prone. With the vest riding
at this height, other items can be carried on the belt with decent access – a
knife, pistol magazines, flashlight, multi-tool, and compass for example. With
all that open area though, the vest really doesn’t carry much. As
I’m not employed to assault enemy positions, I don’t need an assault
vest. What I do need – and what the vest provides – is water, more
ammo for the pistol and carbine, navigation, communications, and a blow-out
kit. If called for, a PVS-14 or PVS-7D in rigid case can be quickly and securely
attached to the water carrier on the back. As the unofficial motto of my favorite
school says, “shoot, move, and communicate”, this vest is geared
to meet those needs. What it is not geared to meet is self-sustainability.
This vest shouldn’t be confused with a rig meant for patrolling, what
one would choose to wear when knowingly venturing into unfriendly areas, or
anything to sustain oneself longer than a few hours. Essentially this is a
vest to be worn when contact isn’t expected, just something to work ones
way back to a nearby resupply.
For the applications where the light vest isn’t sufficient, a ruck is
called for, as well as a vest that works well with a ruck but also has the
volume capabilities for sustainability. Of course, this is a trade-off, and
there are many trade-offs involved in choosing kit. As always, determined by
METT-T [Mission,+Enemy,+Terrain,+Troops+Time Available]. At this time, for
a patrolling
/ heavy vest, I’m evaluating
the K171 Arktis model. It’s heavier, bulkier, doesn’t allow unimpeded
pistol usage (the pistol is stowed in a cross draw integral holster and meant
to provide
security over speed), and favors security over speed in reloading – but
it does carry a patrolling load well.
On the topic of slings, I realize this is personal preference, but I prefer
different slings for different applications. On a battle rifle or a precision
rifle, I prefer the Quick-Cuff from Tactical Intervention Specialists. I’d
been using these slings for years before our military adopted them as part
of issue sniper kit - they really are top-drawer quality. I’ve used them
on long-range courses and competitions and never regretted it. It doesn’t
do anything that a good loop sling doesn’t
do – it just does it faster and easier. For shotguns and carbines, it’s
difficult to find better than the Giles or Vickers slings, in my opinion. When
set-up such that the buttplate is approximately one fist height below the chin,
these work very well.
At this point though, I’d like to reiterate your admonition that training
must be sought. If a trip into the Arizona or Nevada deserts, the
Oregon mountains, the Oklahoma hills, isn’t a viable option at the
moment, then I also advocate the Appleseed
Program [rifle matches and clinics].
These fine, hospitable folks will get you spooled up on the basics of marksmanship
quickly
and efficiently – I
should know, I’ve
been volunteering as an instructor for almost a year now. All the best, and
God Bless! - Bravo
« Letter Re: Amaranth--A Weed You Can Eat |Main| Letter Re: The Shenandoah Valley as a Retreat Locale? »
Letter Re: Night Operations
James:
Regarding
Pete C.'s article on night operations: The great (but now sadly defunct)
magazine "Coevolution
Quarterly" had a great article about night vision development sometime
in the 1980s (I've got a copy of it hanging around here somewhere, if only
I was organized enough to lay my hands on it) that gave a brilliant method
for training night sight via peripheral vision. The technique involved taking
something like a lightweight brazing rod and attaching it [off-center] to
the bill of a baseball cap. On the end of the rod, you attached a small white
ball
or
disc,
which you focused on as you walked. Finding a clear path on a moonless, lightless
night, you put on the cap and focus on the ball/disc and begin walking. I tried
this a couple of nights and though it took a while to really get the technique
down, when you became adjusted to it, the effect easily rivaled that of artificial
night vision devices. Apparently, with a bit of repeated practice, you can
do away with the cap and fall right into the "de-focus" that allows
or the ready use of peripheral vision for natural, intensified light gathering.
Pete C's article reminds me that I need to try this again, and get comfortable
enough with it that I can do it at will. Regards, - Hawaiian K.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Note from JWR: »
Night Operations--Gain the Tactical and Psychological Edge, Even Without the Aid of Night Vision Devices, by Pete C.
Sometime in the future, in a post-TEOTWAWKI environment,
your retreat group may decide to send out small teams to conduct either reconnaissance
or security
patrols. They may want to collect information on what is happening at the nearest
town or confirm/ disprove the accuracy of any information (rumors) previously
attained. Whatever the mission, these teams must function as a cohesive unit
every time. Their success or failure will depend on everyone’s ability
to operate during darkness or periods of reduced and/ or limited visibility
(to include rain, fog, snow, etc.) even if they do not have the aid of night
vision devices because of expense, loss, and/or damage.
Psychological Effects
The inability to see well in darkness leads to doubt and increases apprehension.
Darkness always brings out an individual’s weakness, especially in lethal
situations. It has been demonstrated many times in both military and police
situations that if a team member is confused, frightened, or operating in a
diminished capacity, the entire team will suffer. This could lead to over-caution,
which might make an individual a better target due to slowness or additional
time spent being backlighted or silhouetted. The team’s ability to function
(and fight) at night is directly related to confidence in individual skills,
unit teamwork, and confidence in leaders.
At night, objects or shadows can appear “real”, exaggerated to
the untrained mind. These illusions can come from the over-active imagination
(and viewing too many horror type movies; which, due to darkness, the imagination
cannot separate fact from fantasy. Illusions may also come from:
- Confusion due to an error of the senses: hearing, smell, and sight
- A mistaken impression in the mind (a low tree with no leaves on its branches
is a man standing with a rifle, etc.).
- A confused mind and personal fears or phobias (a piece of rope is a snake;
a clothesline full of cloths is a group of people, etc.).
As stress increases, individuals may also imagine dangers, causing fear or
even panic. Fear can cause uncertainty, which could cloud an individual’s
decision-making capability. This is true in all untrained or marginally experienced
people. Training will diminish this dilemma (however, to some extent it will
always be there); confident in their abilities, individuals and teams will
be better prepared for what they may encounter
Physical Factors
Just as darkness affects the mind, it also affects the senses. Maximizing the
capabilities of the senses will enhance an individuals ability to move and
fight at night. Improving the senses of hearing and smelling requires training;
vision is maximized by understanding how the eye operates differently at day
and night and how to efficiently use its capabilities.
Hearing: At night, hearing becomes more acute. Several factors contribute to
this: increased concentration; sound travels farther in cooler, moist air,
and less background noise. Practice and training will help overcome an individual's
fear in what they hear at night. Training enables individuals to discriminate
multiple sounds, faint sounds, and sound source directions. Below are some
examples of sounds that you might encounter and the distances the normal human
ear can hear at night:
- Normal Footsteps (20 – 30 meters)
- Footsteps over leaves and branches (60 – 80 m)
- Normal conversation (90 – 100 m)
- Conservation in low voice (35 – 45 m)
- Coughing (55 – 65 m)
- Cocking / loading a weapon (400 – 500 m)
- Motor vehicle movement on a dirt road / highway (500 m / 1,000 m)
- Screams (1,500 m)
- Single rifle shot (2,000 – 3,000 m)
- Automatic weapons fire (3,000 – 4,000 m)
Remember sharp sounds carry much farther, and unnatural sounds are much more
easily identified. When patrolling, whenever possible, try to use natural or
normal sounds to mask your movement. Move quickly as possible when these sounds
can be used to your advantage (e.g., a car drives by, a gust of wind through
the trees, etc).
Check team members and equipment for objects, which can make noise. Have member’s
jump-shuffle before moving out. Some things to be aware of:
- Loose change or keys in pockets
- Hand guards or sling on weapons
- Loose boot laces
- Loosely attached items, such as flashlights
- Items that “flop” forward when you stoop or bend over
- Water sloshing in a half-full canteen
Smell: Of all the senses, smell is used the least and often ignored. In the
movie “Uncommon Valor”, Col. Rhodes (Gene Hackman) tells the team “…we
will be eating nothing but Vietnamese food from now on. We don’t want
to be tromping through the jungle smelling like Americans”. This was
because different diets produce different characteristic human odors. With
some training, individuals should be able to easily detect and differentiate
between different odors. Additional clues like exhaust from fuel-burning engines,
cooking odors, campfire, tobacco and aftershave can linger long enough to signal
an individual/ team of possible contact. Below are some examples of odors that
you might encounter and the distances the normal human nose can detect them
at night:
- Cigarette smoke (150 m)
- Heat tab (300 m)
- Diesel fuel (500 m)
Vision: Vision at night is different from vision during the day. At night,
eyes cannot differentiate color, and easily blinded when exposed to light.
The color receptors are clustered near the center of the retina, creates
a central blind
spot,
which causes larger objects to be missed as distances increase. Below are some
examples of light sources that you might encounter and the distances at which
these light sources could be seen at night with the naked eye:
- Lighted cigarette (500 – 800 m)
- Lighted match (1,500 m)
- Muzzle flashes from small-arms weapons (1,500 – 2,000 m)
- Flashlight (2,000 m)
- Vehicle headlights (4,000 – 8,000 m)
While at the retreat, members know that during the hours of darkness, everyone
must observe strict blackout rules. Windows, entrances, and other openings
through which light can shine must be covered with shutters, screens, curtains,
and other special opaque materials to prevent light from escaping. The same
is true while out on patrol (e.g. if you need to review a map, use a tactical
red lens flashlight (with cardboard filter cutout – to create a smaller
beam); be on the ground and under a poncho). If members are lucky enough to
have night vision devices, be aware that they can throw off a retro-reflective
glow commonly know by soldiers as “cat-eyes” reflection. This glow
could be seen by others also using night vision devices. Members should always
assume that others, not in the group, have just as much or even more technology
as they do.
Relation of Vision to Light and Shadows:
- When light, such as the low full moon is faced vision is decreased.
- When light, such as the high full moon, is behind, vision is increased.
- When light is straight overhead, the effect is neutral. To
the patrol looking for a target, both are easily seen when moving, and hard
to see when in the shadows or stationary.
- Direct lighting will ruin your night vision.
- It is easy to see looking from darkness into light, but nearly impossible
when looking from a lighted area into darkness. (e.g. standing near a campfire).
- When holding a light, you become a long-range target, while you can only
see your immediate surroundings.
- Silhouetting an object with light from its rear will clearly define it.
- Camouflaged individuals in the shadows are extremely hard to see, even when
moving.
- The smaller the object, the further away it will look. The bigger the object,
the nearer it will appear making range estimation difficult.
- Bright objects will seem closer, obscured or dark objects will seem farther
away, again making range estimation difficult.
Improving Night Abilities
Awareness: Become in tuned with your surroundings – be able to differentiate
between what is normal, and what is not (or being able to notice the absence
of normal sights, sounds, objects, or activities). It is also being able to
subconsciously catalog the various sounds and have a mental alarm when something
is not right. Being aware is something that can be developed through training.
Remember, you do not always have to be in camouflage, with weapons or on patrol
to conduct training. Some examples of exercises that individuals or a team
can practice (day and night) are:
- In either an urban environment or at the retreat, sit quietly and carefully,
listen to each and every sound, identify and cataloging each individually,
rather than incorporating it into the overall drone creating by the mass of
sounds. Be aware of what is natural, or normal, and when the sounds should
be heard (e.g., birds singing during the day and not at night). Lock the sound
into your subconscious so that you will be able to take warning when their
absence is inappropriate, as well as when their presence is normal. When doing
these exercises, simply relax, breathe deeply and focus your mind.
- Practice on smelling techniques. Face into the wind, nose at a 45-degree
angle, relax, breath normally; then take sharp sniffs, concentrate and think
about specific odor.
- Practice moving at night or with a blindfold, becoming aware of texture and
feel.
- Practice moving through various terrains, during different times of the day
and the year; and in various weather conditions.
- Sit around a moderately normal area, such as dry, short grass (not knee-deep
dry leaves) with everyone’s eyes tightly closes, head down. While everyone
is concentrating on listening, have one team member try to move toward someone
else and try to touch them, without being detected; or place someone in a designated
area, and try to move the team to the position without being detected. With
practice, members will be surprised not only at how well they can now move
more quietly; but also, how good they have become at detecting sounds.
Dark Adaptation: Is the process by which the eyes increase their sensitivity
to low levels of light. Individuals adapt to the darkness at varying degrees
and rates. During the first 30 minutes in a dark environment, the eye sensitivity
increases roughly 10,000 times, but not much further after that time. [JWR
Adds: A good diet that has plentiful Retinol (the
animal form of Vitamin A) is also important. Just keep in mind that because
Vitamin A is fat-soluble,
you
should not
over-dose on Vitamin A. Remember the standard KADE rule
for dosing vitamins that are not water soluble!]
- Adaptation is affected by exposure to bright lights such as matches, flashlights,
flares, and vehicle headlights; taking 30 - 45 minutes for full recovery.
- Night vision devices can impede dark adaptation; however, if an individual
adapts to the dark before donning the device, they should regain full dark
adaptation in about two minutes after removing them.
- Color perception decreases during darkness where light and dark colors distinguished
depending on the intensity of the reflected light.
- Visual sharpness at night is one-seventh of what it is during the day, this
is why individuals can only see large, bulky objects.
Protecting Night Vision: While working and performing tasks in daylight, the
exposure to this light will directly affect night vision. Exposure to bright
sunlight for two to five hours causes a definite decrease in visual sensitivity,
which can also persist for equally as long. During this same time, the rate
of dark adaptation and the degree of night vision capability will be decreased.
These effects are cumulative and may persist for several days. Therefore, neutral
density sunglasses or equivalent filter lenses should be used during daylight
when night operations are anticipated.
Night Vision Scanning: Dark adaptation is only the first step toward maximizing
the ability to see at night. Night vision scanning enables individuals to overcome
many of the physiological limitations of their eyes and reduce the visual illusions
that so often confuse them. The technique involves scanning from either right
to left (or from left to right) using a slow, regular scanning movement. Although
both day and night searches use scanning movements, at night individuals must
avoid looking directly at a faintly visible object when trying to confirm its
presence.
Off-Center Vision: Viewing an object using central vision during daylight
poses no limitation, but this technique is ineffective at night. This is because
the eye has a night blind spot that exists during low light. To compensate
for this limitation, individuals use what is called “off-center vision”.
This technique requires looking approximately 10 degrees above, below, or to
either side of an object rather than directly at it. This allows the peripheral
vision of the eye to remain in contact with an object. It must be noted that
even when off-center viewing is practiced, the image of an object viewed longer
than two to three seconds tends to bleach out and become one solid tone. As
a result, the object is no longer visible and can produce a potentially unsafe
operating condition. To overcome this condition, the individual must be aware
of this phenomenon and avoid looking at an object longer than two to three
seconds. By shifting their eyes from one off-center point to another, individuals
can continue to pick up the object in his peripheral field of vision.
Training: While at the retreat, it is important to set up realistic training
scenarios, using role players, and in the terrain, your team is most likely
to encounter. Since night operations are a broad topic, covering a full spectrum
of many necessary skills, the following minimum things should be evaluated:
- Discipline and teamwork.
- Proper use of cover and concealment (including react to flares - ground/
air)
- Selection of proper positions and routes (geographic study of the terrain
to include potential obstacles, natural or man-made)
- Noise and light discipline.
- Team’s ability to follow its plan.
- Use of contingency plans.
- Employment of proper tactics.
- Proper undetected movement
- Traveling formations (file versus wedge)
- Good planning sequence.
- Stealth techniques (night walking, stalking)
- Proper use of camouflage.
- React to unplanned contact (immediate action drills – contact front/
rear; right/ left; ambush, etc.)
- Movement on ridges and hilltops (which lead to detection).
- Abort and rally point exercises.
- Crossing danger areas (roads or open areas).
In addition to the above, the follow areas should be evaluated for urban environments:
- Moving past windows (low and high).
- Moving through doors.
- Getting over walls and fences.
- Getting under chain linked fences.
- Observation and movement techniques.
Conclusion
Although, modern electronic night vision devices are available, not everyone
will be able to afford them or know how to use them to their full capability.
Remember that
fancy equipment is in no way a substitute for complete, balanced, and specific
training. Therefore, night training is a "must" requirement for all
individuals/ teams at your retreat. It will allow everyone to become confident
in their
abilities (obtaining high morale and a mental offensive spirit) even without
the aid of night vision devices.
The last piece of advice I will leave you with is: The only thing more difficult
than training (or planning for an emergency) is having to explain why you didn’t
train. Good-luck and God Bless!
References:
FM 7-70 Light Infantry Platoon/Squad, Appendix D, Night Operations
FM 7-93 Long-Range Surveillance Unit Operations, Appendix K, Night Operations.
Brown, Tom, and Bolyn, Heather. “Tom Brown's Field Guide to Nature Observation
and Tracking”. Penguin Group Inc., New York, New York, 1986
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Questions on Root Cellaring »
Letter Re: Advice on M1A Rifle Scopes and Scope Mounts
Mr. Rawles,
Thanks for the great articles. I have been able to check out your web site
for several months, and have recently been able to purchase thru private channels
an M1A (Smith
Enterprise receiver) battle rifle. It came with a McMillan
fiberglass stock and two 20 round"W"-marked magazines. I have
purchased four more of the same magazines through Cheaper
Than Dirt, and wanted to know if
you had any recommendations on scopes and scope mounts. There seem to be a
lot
of cheap
import scope mounts,
but many customer reviews are mixed. Also, with this type of weapon, a poorly
made scope will show fast. Most US military scopes are designed around the
.223 (5.56mm NATO) round. Any idea on where to start with this?
I should let you know that I have land that will be used for my retreat. I
will be putting a cabin together come Spring of 2009, and the land is lightly
treed rolling hills. I plan to use this firearm as a fixed defensive weapon,
since it is fairly heavy compared to my other firearms. I have the heavy steel
bipod for this, and with the soon to be compliment of six 20rd magazines and
22 stripper clips, this should make for a decent piece. I have seen Yukon
night
vision scopes, but have no idea about the quality. Any advice would help a
bunch. Best Regards,- J.M.R.
JWR Replies: I recommend that you buy at least two more,
and preferably four more magazines, to be ready for truly Schumeresque times.
The original "W" stamped magazines were made by Winchester. But
be advised that there have been some reports of faked "W" and "BRW
S-1"--marked M14 magazines
currently on the market. Because the markings on these replicas area almost
identical to the originals, the only way to
be absolutely sure that you are getting the genuine article is if you buy
ones that are still in the original government issue VCI paper
wrapper, with military contract markings. The good news, however, is that
the functional
reliability
of
the replicas is just as good as the originals. But collector-purists would
be incensed to find that they bought fakes. (For details on M14/M1A magazines, see
my FAQ on the subject.)
I highly recommend the ARMS
#18 scope mount. The Springfield
Armory (commercial) steel scope mounts are also excellent. In my experience,
even their early generation (single thumb screw) mounts are "bomb proof" at
holding zero. I've owned each, and I have no complaints about either of them.
I've heard that Smith
Enterprise M1A mount is also excellent,
but I've never tried one.
Avoid the cheap imported M14 scope mounts .I have read that many
of them have either inconsistent quality control (dimensional) problems, return
to zero problems, or both.
For scopes, I recommend any of the following:
Leatherwood ART scopes.
Leupold Mark 4 (PR LR) 4.5-14x40 Mil-Dot scopes. (These require 30mm diameter
rings.)
Trijicon Trophy Point scopes (with tritium-lit reticle)
AN/PVS-4 Starlight scopes,
such as those remanufactured by STANO
Components, Inc. (Get an original USGI M14
Starlight scope mount.)
I do not recommend most of the inexpensive starlight scopes
made in Russia. They have notoriously uneven quality control and poor image
quality. For more details on night vision gear, see this
letter in the SurvivalBlog
archives.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes from JWR »
After 10 Years--Some Observations and Lessons Learned by a Y2K-Era Prepper
It was June, 1998. Y2K was
a salient topic of conversation. It got my attention. When the electricity
went off and there would be no water to drink, and no
fuel to move food to the JIT grocery
stores, I could see things getting very ugly. I had been willing to fight
for this nation as a member of the US Army.
Now it was time to fight for my household. I bought a Springfield Armory
M1A. I bought a safe to store it in. I bought another M1A (for
the spousal unit of course!) I bought ammo. Lots of it. I bought gear. I
bought food.
I became awakened to the idea of being self-reliant.
That was 10 years ago. Y2K didn’t cause a global melt down. (Although
I have a friend in the service that sat in a command bunker holding his breath
at Y2K – the
government didn’t know what was going to occur.) I
have not had to live through or endure Hurricane
Katrina. No participation
in the 9/11 attacks.
In fact, I can’t claim a campaign ribbon for any
disasters. Am I upset or sorry that I have changed my life to follow a path
of self-reliance? Most definitely, absolutely not!
Let me share with you the good and the bad of what I have done in the last
ten years. So often, people new to self-reliance are like ants at the foot
of a mountain staring up with their head touching their back wondering how
in the world they will ever be able to replace modern society and be able to
take care of themselves WTSHTF.
Well, truth be told, you can’t do it
overnight unless you’re Warren Buffet. I am walking, talking living proof,
however, that you can make significant progress. Let me show you!
In order to show you that you do indeed have cause for hope, let me share
a
few of my screw-ups. How about the initial purchases I made
while in a state of “marked concern” when I became “self
aware” with
regard to self – reliance. The money I invested in self-reliance was
my spousal unit’s “down payment on a house”. Do you think
this view of “my nest” versus “the world may end” led
to some intense “discussions”? You bet your last dog flea it did.
For much of the intervening 10 years I have been the one prepping while my
wife harbored a severe grudge against the entire topic because I spent our
money for the house down payment on crazy self-reliance materials. A grade
of “F” to
me for consensus building. She is just beginning to come around in the last
two years. Poster child example of a bucket of wet sand. (If two guys fight,
they belt each other like two crazed wolverines. Eventually they realize they
were stupid for fighting, shake hands, forgive and are back to being friends.
Kinda like a cow urinating on a big flat rock – big splash and splatters,
but it dries up pretty quickly. Get in an argument with a gal and it is like
pouring water into
a bucket of sand – the surface may dry after a bit, but it stays wet
down in that bucket for a long time.)
I very religiously squirreled away Gillette Atra razors because that is what
I used each day. The handle that you click onto the blade cartridge gave up
the ghost after many years of faithful service. The stores don’t sell
them anymore! Now I have three dozen packs of five cartridges with no way to
use them to shave! Fortunately, I did find a second/spare handle in my stores
and
will
be able to use them up. Did I re-learn some valuable lessons? You bet!
Two is one, and one is none.
You need to see what you have (inventories!)
Store what you Eat/use – I did great on the cartridges, but forgot
spare handles!
In the run-up to Y2K I bought a dozen 6 volt golf cart batteries to be able to
set-up some kind of power system in the house. Great intent. No photovoltaic
panels No wiring until last year. They have been “stored” sitting
on pallets in a friends storage building for 9 years because I have not been
able to get
to the replacement power system yet. I could have used that money for a higher
priority item.
The spousal unit and I built our home last year. We did many things very right.
Some learning experiences occurred, however. Maybe chief amongst them is my
underestimation of the massiveness of the size of this endeavor! I joke with
friends about not being free from the To Do list to be able to get into trouble
for at least five years! Fix the septic pond berms. Sort out the “scrap” lumber.
Put a deck on the back of the house so the [building] code Nazis will give
us the permanent occupancy permit. Fix the leaking pressure tank in the basement.
Fix the DR
mower. Mow. Clear 30 trees dropped to get the septic pond clearance (not done
with that one yet). Cut and split and stack firewood. The list goes on. Don’t
get me wrong – I would not trade my homestead back for city living for
anything. Was I able to foresee the "second & third order effects” of
the change to a country homestead? Nope. Not even having read Backwoods Home
magazine for 8 years. Thank God I listened to my in-laws and did not try
to finish the upstairs interior construction while living downstairs!
Prior to Y2K I tried very hard to create a group. It failed in many ways. Had
Y2K caused the feared problems, we would have been road kill. Okay, we would
have been the third or fourth critter on the highway run over by life, but
we were
nowhere near ready to deal with WTSHTF/TEOTWAWKI.
The Yuppie Queen and her husband went right back to spoiling their princess/daughter,
buying Jaguars, clothes,
and hair implants. You know - living the typical American city life. The other
couple moved out onto 20 acres in a very rural county and raise goats and chickens.
I am on 20+ acres and moving in a self-reliant direction. Two out of three
ain’t
bad!
I endured the gauntlet of multiple careers trying to find a fit for who I am.
Thankfully, my spousal unit was trained well by her farmer parents. We never
carried any debt other than the mortgage. One thing we did do smart was under-buy
on our home with a condo (sixplex) in town. No car payments. No credit card
payments. We kept 3-6 months of expenses in savings. One business venture was
as a franchisee for Idiotstate. Massive mistake. Four years with no income
for me and a net loss of $60,000 overall. What preps could you get done with
an
extra $60,000? I am certainly not happy I put one in the “L” column.
I am not proud of failing. I am proud of jumping into the fight and giving
it my 110%. As they used to tell me in the military, “What an opportunity
for character building!” Learning lesson for me was that I should never
have stopped Soldiering. I simply have green blood. I have returned to the
Army by working as a tactical/leadership contractor at a nearby Fort and getting
reappointed into the National Guard. Will a deployment take me away from directly
protecting The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU)? Yes. Does staying employed doing
what God designed me to do mean we’ll have a steady income? Likely. Does
a pension check from age 65 on make us better able to care for ourselves? You
betcha. The world may not disintegrate in 30 days. It may actually remain fairly
normal. One has to prepare for that contingency as well.
By now you have to be thinking “What a knothead! This guy couldn’t
find his fourth point of contact if you put one hand on a cheek!” Well,
not so fast there Skippy! I have a thing or two that should go in the “W” column.
I should give you a massive dose of hope! Let me describe to you in a quick
overview where I have come to in my 10 year quest to become more self-reliant.
First, about our home…
Home
Your home is your castle, right? Well mine actually kinda is. It sets on a
chunk of land that is 20+ acres. The terrain is rolling and 95% wooded. It
butts up against a cemetery to the north, a 900+ acre conservation area to
the south, a river to the west, and a section line to the east. The home is
an Insulated Concrete Form (ICF)
structure. The walls are 1” of concrete
fake rock veneer, 2.5” of foam, 8” of reinforced concrete, 2.5” of
foam, 5/8” of sheetrock. It is “round”, being made up of
12 wall sections each 8 feet in width. Two stories with a basement. About
1,800 square feet of living space. (2,700 with the basement, however, that
area is not finished yet.) Geothermal heating/cooling and a soapstone wood
stove.
Metal roof. No carpeting – oak floors and tile. The wellhead
is inside the home so I don’t have to worry about winter breakdowns or freeze-ups,
nor losing access WTSHTF. We are running at top speed towards the 20% equity
checkpoint in order to get rid of the bankster-invented Private Mortgage Insurance
(PMI) extortion racket. (We have a credit rating of 804, so the “risk” the
bank incurs by carrying our note is a freaking joke!). It suits our lifestyle
very,
very
well. Our intent was to have a very low maintenance home. Having lived here
one year in two more weeks, it looks like we have a very big check mark in
the “W” column. More details on the design/floor plan in a future
article!
Weapons & Training
We have an M1A set-up for combat, and one set up for long-range precision work.
The Glock 21
[.45 ACP] is the base pistol for the household, with one for each of us and
a G30 [compact Glock .45 ACP] as back-up. The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU) doesn’t
carry a rifle or carbine, just the pistol. (More on that later.) Training for
both of us
includes Defensive
Handgun 1 and Team Tactics with Clint and Heidi Smith at Thunder Ranch. I have
also had General Purpose, Urban, and Precision Rifle with Clint. I completed
a special symposium at Gunsite (pistol, rifle, shotgun, carbine). I am an NRA Certified
pistol, rifle, and home defense instructor. I have several other weapon platforms
as a “Dan Fong” kind of guy. The two rifles with
accoutrements, and the four pistols with same were certainly not cheap. Nor
was the training. I do, however, know how to properly employ them now.
Food & Supplies
The spousal unit & I could stretch the on-hand food to cover two years.
Canned freeze dried is 45% of it, bulk buckets is 45%, and “normal use” food
is the last 10%. We have built a rolling rack set of shelves for the 3rd part
to ease rotation of the canned goods with each grocery store trip. No, I haven’t
found the secret spy decoder ring sequence on how to rotate the bulk and freeze-dried
stuff with our normal, both of us work, lifestyle. The sticking point for this
area I see is that WTSHTF, Mom & Dad in-law, Sister-in-law, Brother-in-law
with wife and two princesses (one with hubby), and my Mom & her husband
will
show up on our doorstep. That makes for an even dozen mouths to fee
Security
Now for a bit more detail. First topic up, IAW my military training, is Security.
The base of everything here is God. I have chosen to bend my knee to Jesus
Christ as my Lord and Savior. I can amass all the weapons, ammo, food and “stuff” you
can imagine, but He is the one ultimately in charge. I am charged to be a prudent
steward of His possessions - my family, property, vehicles, food, weapons,
ammo, etc.. I am definitely striving to be the ant storing things for the winter.
If you ain’t right in this area, it will really matter in eternity.
Part of your security is weapons. There are sheeple, wolves, and sheepdogs.
I am definitely in the 3rd category. In today’s world your “teeth” are
your firearms. I plan from a Boston T. Party paradigm of having a battle rifle.
Hence, the M1A. Were I starting over today, I would likely go with a FAL, but
now "I will dance with the one that brung me". Or maybe just accept the brilliance
of the M1
Garand at $620 delivered to your doorstep from the Civilian Marksmanship
Program (CMP).
I do have two of these. Hard to argue with .30-06 ball. I renovate Mausers
as my hobby and so have a .35 WAI scout rifle. A second one in the
more common 7.62x51 chambering is in work now. I laos have a Mossberg 835 [riotgun],
two Ruger 10/22s (one blued, one stainless), Ruger MKII stainless .22 LR pistol,
S&W
625 pistol in .45 ACP/.45
Auto Rim, a few Enfields, and a couple of Mosin-Nagants round out the field.
Let me detail for you the path to get to the Glocks. I think it may save you
some of your money. I received a Colt Gold Cup [M1911]
.45 ACP pistol from my Dad as a graduation gift from the Hudson Home For Boys
[aka USMA West Point].
Great
intent. A weapon as a gift – how can you ever be wrong in doing this?!
However, a terrible choice as a combat weapon. The Gold Cup is a target pistol.
Tight
tolerances.
Feeds only hardball, and that can be tenuous proposition. I carried it on the
East-West German border leading patrols. The rear sight broke twice. The front
sight shot off once and tore off twice. It was a jammomatic. I hated it. Sold
it to a guy that wanted to target shoot.
Took that money and bought a stainless Ruger P90DC. Sack of hammers tough.
always goes bang when you pull the trigger. Inexpensive as far as handguns
go. After some marked de-horning, you could even make it run in a fight without
shredding you at the same time. One marked problem. Two [different weight]
trigger pulls [for first round double action versus subsequent round single
action.]. This started to teach me to throw the muzzle down as I pulled the
trigger in
double
action.
This nasty habit caused a problem when you were firing the 2nd through X rounds,
as now it operates as a single action. TLSU had a heck of a time with it at
Thunder Ranch. Clint loaned her his G21. No more trigger problems.
Still bowing at the altar of the 1911, I bought a Kimber Compact to carry instead
of the Ruger. (I still have the Ruger – it is still “the gun that
my Dad gave me” and no one buys the P90 used for anywhere near it’s
initial cost, so I can’t sell it without taking a significant bath on
it.) The Kimber was going well. Then I got a little too aggressive at slamming
magazines home in the shortened grip and jammed it. Then the recoil rod unscrewed
itself during an IPSC run
and seized the gun while messing up the trigger. Off to Kimber. Free warranty
work and 48 hours without my self-defense pistol.
Now I have no confidence in the pistol. I Loc-Tite’d the recoil rod
and staked it so it wouldn’t come undone again. Then I sold it.
Glocks cost roughly one-half of what a Kimber does. Crummy factory sights,
but all my pistols wear tritium anyway. No ambidextrous safety required. My
short fingers are
mated to big palms, so I can handle the grip. TLSU has been trained on the
Glock Model 21 (G21). It ain’t an issue of psychological derangement
like many guys get about their 1911/Glock/H&K/Springfield, but it is a
comfortable and working relationship between Glock & I. I have a G21 and
a G30 for both of us. They always go bang accurately and they have never rusted.
I am
not
pleased
with Gaston [Glock]’s refusal to take responsibility for any mistakes
they make in manufacturing. No problems with the G21 however. A pistol is what
you
use
to fight your way back to your rifle, which you shouldn’t have laid down
in the first place.
M1As hit my safe because it is what I knew from the service. They also fire
a full power cartridge, 7.62x51. It makes cover into concealment. I don’t
have the other 10 guys in an infantry squad fighting with me so I can maneuver
under their covering fire. I have to hit the bad guy with a powerful blow once
and move on to the next wolf/bad guy. Mouse guns firing rabbit rounds don’t
scratch that itch for me. To each his own. My two are old enough to have USGI
parts and good quality control. Here are the mods I made to my “combat” M1A.
Maybe they will help you:
Krylon paint job to disrupt the "big black stick" look
M60 [padded] sling
Front sight filed down so that zero is achieved with the rear sight bottomed
out
Handguard ventilated
National Match trigger group, barrel, and sights (came as a “Loaded” package
from Springfield)
Rear aperture drilled out to make it a ghost ring
Skate board tape on slick metal butt plate
For the “Surgical” M1A (it shoots1/2 minute when I do my part):
National Match loaded package
Trigger assembly additionally tuned at factory
Unitized gas system
Factory bedded
Stainless barrel
Swan rings and QD bases
Leupold M3 3.5-10x40 scope
Handmade leather cheekrest
Other weapons - I have two M1
Garands. Both were bought from the CMP. One
is stored offsite with a "Bug-In Bag" (BIB). One is a Danish return, less
wood, that I re-stocked. TLSU has claimed this one as hers. Ammo from the CMP
is
cheaper
than any
other cartridge out there, save the communist surplus stuff. An M1917 Enfield
(also
from CMP) is in the safe, along with a 2A, a #3, and a #4. A VZ24 is stored
offsite. The first Mauser I renovated is sitting there as an additional .30-06
with a Trijicon 3-9x40 tritium-lit scope. A Remington 700 with Leupold VX-II
scope is in the safe, but likely to be sold soon. A Mosin-Nagant (M44 or
M38) ride in each vehicle.
I formerly had [Ruger] Mini-30s. I could never find any 20 or 30 round magazines
that would function reliably. I sold them and got SKS carbines. When I quit
holding out
for TLSU to become a Warrior and carry one, I sold them off to fund other
toys. I am pondering the purchase of an AK folder because it is a sack of
hammers
tough and can be transported discretely. I don’t know if I have ever
come out on the positive side when selling a gun. Now I have to re-buy an
AR-15 to have one for training purposes. The SKSs could be useful for arming
the
family showing up on your doorstep. Hindsight being 20/20, I would caution
against selling any gun you buy. (The 700 mentioned above is a 2nd precision
weapon and I have no AK to train with. Still deciding.)
Ammo is required to feed these weapons. I have over 10,000 rounds of 7.62x51.
I have over 10,000 rounds of .22 LR. No, I don’t think these amounts
are enough. Now that the costs of ammo have risen to heart stopping levels,
I really don’t feel like I bought enough in the past!
I need to plus up the quantities/smatterings of other cartridges that I have
like .30-30 Winchester, .270 Winchester,
.40 S&W.
The location of my home is the best I could get balancing competing requirements.
It is as far from the city as we can get and still stomach the drive to work.
It is between two major line of drift corridors – 12 miles to the major
one, 8 miles to the secondary one. It is bordered by neighbors on only one
side. The folks in the cemetery don’t say much. The critters in the
wildlife area are more vocal - the ducks, turkeys, geese, hoot owls, loons,
coyotes
sound off regularly. We don’t mind. About 95% of the property is wooded.
A few hickory, lots of oak. walnut, (unfortunately) locust trees are all
there.
The local river comes out of it’s banks about every other year and
blocks our driveway for several days, but never comes near the house. The
German Shorthair
is long in the tooth for security, but she is there. A new pup is in the
pipeline.
I would feel a great deal more secure if the homestead was picked up and
dropped into Idaho or Alaska. It is about as good as we can do, though, staying
near
a major city so we can have decent paying jobs. There are some improvements
we can make though. I just bought a weather alert radio from Cabela’s
today. Tough to hear tornado sirens when you live miles away and have 1 foot
thick walls! We need a driveway monitor/alarm. Again, the superior insulation
of
the walls means we hear nothing outside. I can see the utility
of sandbags if things got really ugly. Some more land line communication
assets would be
useful. I think an AR-15 for training people would be useful, as would an
AK. Overall, I think we have done pretty well in the security arena.
Our Home
We started the 10 years in a condo. It was part of a six-plex set on a small
pond. I hate Homeowner’s Associations and their covenants! We could afford
the mortgage on one of our two paychecks. Good thing! I didn’t get a
paycheck for four years. We scraped by. Two years after re-entering the job
market we built our house. We worked on the plans for five years. Beware! Finding
a property piece and building a non-shoebox home on it is not for the feint
of
heart!
You effectively are funding the construction of a mini town. You build and
maintain mini roads (your driveway). You must build and maintain a mini sewage
plant (Your septic system/pond). You must build and maintain a mini water plant.
(Your well.) You must perform mowing and tree removal for the mini parks of
your town (Your “yard”/acreage). I will write a separate article
detailing our construction woes.
Let me highlight some of the self-reliant features of the house for you. We
did not want to spend a constant stream of Federal Reserve Notes [FRNs]on
maintenance. We used insulated concrete form (ICF) construction for the structural
strength
and the energy efficiency. The metal roof should outlast us. The geothermal
and
the
R-50 walls
of the
ICF are paying us back the initial investment in construction costs. We opted
for no carpeting due to the track in mud nature of the property, having a dog,
and me having allergies. Wood and tile floors don’t hold dirt like carpets
do. Less fire hazard as well. We used commercial steel doors for the exterior
and security-need spots. They have ASSA
[high security] locks. They have peepholes.
The basement has a 10’ square root cellar for the storage of canned produce
from the garden. It also has a safe room/shelter. 12” of concrete overhead.
The well head is enclosed in it. Land line telephone and power service into
it via buried lines. Food stored in it. DC wiring
in place to the attic for when we get to the photovoltaic [PV]
system. We also ran DC wires to each room in the house for the use of LED lighting
off of a battery system. The soapstone
wood
stove
augments the electrically driven geothermal. (In spite of several damaging
thunderstorms this past year, we have not lost power so far – great job
juice Coop!)
The stairwell was kicked out onto the W/NW of the house. This shields the house
from the hottest part of the day’s sunlight, and the coldest winter winds.
We made the stairwell an extra foot wide. What a huge nice difference that
foot makes to walking up and down each day, not to mention moving stuff up
or down them! The mud porch/entry was set up for coming in with muddy boots,
or for snow covered coats. We should have made it 1’ wider, as it can
be a little tight. The bench is great for donning/doffing boots. The tile is
easy to clean the muddy paw prints, human or canine, off of.
Windows were one of the few areas that caused some fireworks. TLSU wanted a
green house in order to take advantage of the great view of the property. I
wanted firing ports to defend against mutant zombie hordes. I am still hugely
uncomfortable with the nakedness the windows leave us with. Yes the view is
great, but what about when we experience incoming rounds, or more mundanely,
when someone comes out to the property while we are away from the house all
day at work and they help themselves to our stuff? Some relief is in sight,
however. We are pricing Shattergard vinyl film for the ground floor windows.
Things That are Still Need on the Home
The great thing about the R-50 ICF walls is that they are R-50 and pretty tough.
The bad thing is that they are R-50 and pretty tough. We can’t hear anything without
a door or window being open. Hence the just purchased weather alert radio for
us from Cabela’s this week. It is kind of eerie waking up at
0200 hours and having no idea if the thunderstorm is just a thunderstorm or
if it is a tornado. The television is useless when the rain is so heavy that
the dish won’t get a signal. With regard to 2-legged varmints, a driveway
MURS Alert
system is on the purchase list as we have had multiple invited guests show
up, beat on the front door, and have to walk around to the living room
windows to get our attention so they can be let inside. Okay for invited guests – certainly
too close for uninvited varmints!
The entry hallway was one of TLSU’s “must haves” in the house
layout. It has worked out well in terms of traffic flow and such. The security
door at the foot of the stairs is a tough choke point to deal with at 0500
in the dark. No light installed there means nothing is visible through the
peephole.
I will have to install a camera and/or light so I don’t open it to let
the dog out in the morning and get rushed by 2-legged varmints.
So far, the only commo needs are between myself and TLSU. When the sister-in-law,
brother-in-law, parents-in-law and my Mom show up and we start pulling
security, we will need to be able
to talk more. I have an old set of TA-312 [field telephone]s and wire for the
primary LP/OP,
but obviously will need more in this area. Just not a sexy/fun area to spend
FRNs on for a combat arms kinda guy, but I am working on the self-discipline
needed.
We did look ahead and sink the FRNs into running 12V wires in the home for
future installation of PV panels and batteries. Obviously things like the Shattergard
film, more food, more Band-aids, etc., are of a higher priority though. We
are working our tails off to reach the 20% equity mark to get rid of the PMI
extortion as well. I still have an ASSA lock to install on the shelter door,
and one to put into the basement door. Other projected door enhancements include
armor plates for the front, outside basement, shelter, and outside storage
doors. There just never seems to be enough $ to go around, does there?
The other major source of fireworks during the home design/build was on-demand
water heaters. Having taken a 30 minute hot shower with one in Germany for
5 marks while on an FTX, I well understand what a brilliant piece of technology
they are. TLSU, having never been outside of CONUS cannot give up on the electric
water heater. She still doesn’t believe that the electricity will ever
go out for more than an hour or two. Wouldn’t it be great to be able
to draw hot water at the kitchen sink, and take a hot shower from a propane
fired on-demand heater? She doesn’t get it yet. Obviously not something
to break up a marriage over. We really did very well on the whole house building
thing. The opposite of what everyone warned us about. I am pretty proud of
that performance!
Food
We started a garden this spring. So far, it is an endeavor run by TLSU. Spinach,
onions, carrots, lettuce, potatoes, beets, and some herbs. I have not been
able to convince her to expand the size. She wants to learn in steps and I
am the whacko that orders 100 seedlings at a time from the conservation department,
which then overwhelms us in the planting department. For example, the first
iteration of this tree-planting endeavor, we got them the Thursday before Easter
weekend. Friday night and all day Saturday we planted our buns off. TLSU was
indeed a great Trooper about it, planting right along with me. Sunday was spent
at church
and pigging out at family’s homes for Easter. Monday I had shoulder surgery
to grind off bone spurs and remove cartilage chips. Too much, too fast. But
at 7 FRNs per 12 seedlings, how can you argue? I have to admit though, that
after two years of the 100 seedlings, I am ready to give it a rest. This year
we settled for seven apple saplings. Initial inspection of the cherry, pecan,
oak, walnut and persimmon seedlings around the house reveals about an 80% survival
rate. Only another 10 years and we will be getting food from them!
The initial freeze dried and bulk storage food needs to be rotated. Anyone
figured out how to do this kind of at home cooking when the two of you work?
The canned/”normal” food is now being rotated with each grocery
store trip. We have canning jars for this year’s veggies and the root
cellar has a robust collection of shelves to store them on. How much is enough?
I
don’t know. Four geographically separate and secure stashes of three
year’s
worth of food for all of the family? Who knows!?
Medical
I have Boo-boo kits just about everywhere now. You know, the band-aid and antibiotic
salve with ibuprofen kit that handles 90% of life’s issues in this area.
Now comes the high-dollar investment stuff. The combat blow-out packs for gunshot
wounds or serious car wrecks. I did go along on a buying trip to a medical
warehouse and got some catheters, sutures, gauze pads, etc.. I did get in on
the last great iodine buy before our loving big brother government banned the
sale of iodine to us mere citizens. (It is a stewable ingredient to make drugs,
you know – “we must deprive/punish all to protect you from a few.
Oh, well, you don’t need to be able to sterilize water anyway – we’ll
take care of you on that too….”)
TLSU and I eat very healthy food – locally raised beef with no antibiotics
or growth hormones. No growth hormone dairy products from a local dairy. Spinach
from the garden. There are sugar detectors on the doors. Also, no chips allowed.
We get to the dentist regularly. We both do Physical Training (PT)
. She jogs 3 miles, 3-4 times per week. I run over lunch at work about 4 miles,
4-5 times
per week
and
lift
weights twice per week.
“Needed Still” list includes: Blow out kits, more bandages, more
hospital type stuff, more medicines, syrup of ipecac, more antibiotics, more
feminine
stuff (think of a vaginal yeast infection with no drug store open), drinking
alcohol, poison Ivy soap and remedies, athlete’s foot cream, more baby
wipes, more hand sanitizer, all forms of baby stuff, get the bone spur ground
smooth in my other shoulder and the cartilage chips taken out, get rid of the
cat (allergies).
Vehicles
We still have the same vehicles we had in 2001. A 1998 Toyota Corolla bought
with 30,000 miles, and a 1999 Ford Explorer bought with 45,000 miles. Both
were
paid in full when bought. Both avoided the 25% loss of value when driving a
new car off the lot. The Corolla gets 37 MPG.
I hate it. Every bit of plastic on it has broken – the car door locking
mechanisms, the trunk lock, the ventilation system fan. It gets 37 MPG. I can’t
find anything to touch that. The Ford is too big to get decent mileage, and
too small to really be
a useful truck. It is paid for and has AWD/4WD.
It always starts. Both vehicles have BIBs and gas masks in them. Both have
trunk guns. Both have roadside gear
to help ourselves out of a jam. We are saving for the replacement of them both.
We are going to be saving for quite a while. We need more cash in the BIBs
and Bug Out Bags (BOBs)
All of the preps in this section were done via Cabela points. I bought gas
and paid for business expenses - everything I could pay for with a credit card
was paid for with the Cabela’s credit card. You get points at some sickening
rate of $.01/FRN spent, $.02/FRN in the store. However, when you buy $6-8,000/month
of stuff between personal and business stuff, it adds up! The gear for the
BOBs & BIBs, weapons gear and parts – a significant percentage – 85%+
- came from Cabela [credit card bonus] points. When I got birthday or Christmas
monetary gifts I spent them on self-reliance items. We did this never incurring
any
interest
penalties because we zero the balance out each month. Our BOBs are set-up to
sustain us for 10 days. They are packed in Cabela’s wet bags for load
out in five minutes. Originally I sought to wear a tactical vest and ruck.
After two unsuccessful winter BOB campouts where I could barely waddle one
mile with
both of them on at the same time, I dropped the vest. TLSU’s back is
in tough shape due to scoliosis, so she is not humping any mammoth rucks with
the extra three mortar rounds and can of 7.62 linked. We also decided that
the G21 was what she could carry and dropped the SKS and chest pouches of 10
round stripper clips. Her ruck is a Camelback Commander. That is as big of
a ruck as she can hope to carry without killing her back. We are not leaving
home to go on a combat patrol in Hit or Fallujah. We are fleeing some kind
danger and have every intention of avoiding additional entanglements, to include
government hospitality suites in stadiums.
The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU)
I started self-reliance the wrong way. No consensus development. I saw a danger
and acted. I am a male/sheepdog/warrior type. I am not sure that I could have
ever persuaded her to participate in any meaningful manner before Y2K. She
has only recently begun to do so after eight years of seeing me provide for
and protect her. I was, however, stubborn/strong enough to do what I thought
was
the right thing and to heck with what was popular. Most “males” check
their gender specific anatomical gear at the wedding alter and continue on
in sheeple status. I get that females are the nurturers. I get that they work
from an emotional starting point, not logical. Not wanting the tornado to destroy
the house or the hurricane to wreck your and the adjoining three counties is,
at best, the French method of addressing life. TLSU is finally helping me to
rotate food via the grocery store purchases. She no longer rolls her eyes or
sighs disgustedly when I spend my Cabela points to buy gear. Once I explained
to her that I was planning to shelter and feed her parents and siblings and
that our one year of food wasn’t going to feed all of them for very long,
she started to get on board. She even likes spending the points off of her
Cabela’s card now. She is running 3-4 times per week and gets some PT
from work outside in the garden. She has come a long way. As best as I can
tell, she will not ever be a warrior. We have come a substantial distance from
sleeping on the couch each time a self-reliance topic hits the table of discussion
though. A definite and growing check mark in the “W” column!
Skills
Skills that I have acquired:
Rifles – renovating Mausers and training at Thunder Ranch helps
your ability to use these tools immensely.
Soldering – fixing plumbing leaks myself vs. paying a plumber $200
to show up and start billing me for work
Building – I invested 13 full work weeks of time during the building
of our home helping the contractor. Some of it was the nubby work of cleaning
up the scrap and sawdust. Some of it was banging in joist hangers. I laid
all the tile and 95% of the wood flooring in the house.
Fix-it – the DR Brush mower has long passed it’s warranty
period and while performing quite admirably, does need attention every now
and then.
The 1974 F100 demands attention regularly. Each of these repair work challenges
teaches me a little more about mechanical items and taking care of things
myself.
Sewing – Yes, my dear Grandmother taught me to sew buttons, and
my Mom taught me to survival sew/repair things. A 1960 gear driven Singer sews
nylon
gear though!; )
Skills still needed:
More First Aid – it appears that a first responder or wilderness 1st
aid course may be in the cards for this year.
More Hand to Hand – my goals and objectives list has had this goal
on it for several years. Good news – I got started on knocking it off the
list. Bad news, it revealed an “old man” shortcoming in my shoulder.
Good news, I am getting the shoulder fixed (hopefully) during “normal” times
versus after Schumerization. I just may get ambushed and not have my trusty
M1A in hand. Having unarmed defense skills means never having to be a steak
dinner/victim.
More riflesmithing – each birthday or Christmas gift of money has
been partially apportioned to the purchase of gunsmithing tooling. I need more
practice
with the tools I have. I still need more tooling. I recently secured Parkerizing
gear, but have not gotten the metal stands for the tanks built. Still,
progress is progress and I can already do more to maintain weapons than
95% of the
population.
Knife making – I just cringe at the idea of spending $300 for top
quality knives. CRKT is my friend. Even better is learning to assemble the
scales and
blank myself. Eventually, knowing how to forge blanks myself would be useful.
Mill lumber – with 95% of my property wooded, I have the material
to be self-reliant with regard to my lumber needs. I need a way to saw the
tree into lumber though. First, the mill, then the skill to use it. Then
I have
the gear to diversify my income and help others.
Have I always done the smartest thing? Absolutely not! Much to the crazed
satisfaction of a former operator buddy, I have cycled through the “best/high
dollar” gear
approach to the “sack of hammers USGI/AK” school of self-reliance.
Don’t get me wrong – I ain’t surrendering my Kifaru rucks
anytime soon! However, there were a great number of FRNs spent on those self-reliance
tuition payments! Have I learned a lot? Absolutely, yes! Am
I better able to maintain my independence and protect and provide for my
family? Absolutely,
yes! Could you do better than I did? Good chance. Have you
done as much as I have in the last 10 years? Only your freedom, loved ones,
and the quality
of your life post-TEOTWAWKI depend on the answer to that one.
« Two Letters Re: Advice on Backup Power for a Ranch in Western Canada |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: For Want of a Battery
Mr. Rawles:
I was working through my "List of Lists" yesterday, and a thought
struck me like a lightning bolt: Without batteries--lots of
rechargeable batteries--I'm hosed. There
are so many items that I'll depend on in an emergency that need batteries:
My weather radio, Kenwood
MURS handhelds (thanks for that suggestion,
BTW), starlight scope,
and my
flashlights. (And thanks also for your suggestion of IR [flashlight]
filters). Without [those battery-powered items as] "force multipliers",
I'd be at huge disadvantage to looters, who could be wandering the countryside
in droves, if and when it all hits the fan. So, with that realization, I'm
investing in a small [photovoltaic]
solar panel [for
battery
charging], and a boatload of NiMH batteries.
Do you still recommend All-Battery [as
a supplier]? And who sells a small panel--say 5 to 10 watts--that
is reliable
and weather-tight?
The battery situation reminds me of that old poem: "For
want of a nail, the shoe was lost..." Thanks In Advance, - George L.
JWR Replies: Yes, All-Battery.com is
an excellent source. If you can afford to, buy a triple or quadruple set
for each piece of gear that takes batteries. (Even if you don't use them
all yourself, the extra batteries will be ideal to keep on hand for barter
and charity.) You
are correct in mentioning the NiMH low self-discharge (LSD) technology (such
as the Sanyo Eneloop). It is currently the most reliable
rechargeable
battery on
the
market.
As I've mentioned in the blog before, if you cannot afford a large battery
bank of deep cycle batteries, then at least buy a "jump pack" 12 VDC gel cell
unit. These are
available with either110 VAC (US/Canada) and 220
VAC (UK) utility power charging cords. You can then plug in a
12VDC "smart" battery charging tray (using a DC power cord with
cigarette lighter plug.) That is far more efficient than using an AC inverter
and then a DC transformer
(like those in most home battery chargers) That way you
are just changing one DC
voltage
to another DC voltage--instead
of a DC inverted -to-AC-and-transformed-back-to-DC proposition. (Which is very inefficient.)
To
keep your "jump pack" charged, I recommend the small PV panels available
from Northern
Tool & Equipment--one of our Affiliate
Advertisers. Once you are at Northern Tool's web site, search on Item
# 339973.
« Letter Re: The Legality and Ethics of Blocking Roads and Bridges After TEOTWAWKI |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Technology After TEOTWAWKI, by JLG in Texas
"A wise man has great power, and a man of knowledge increases strength;
for waging war you need guidance, and for victory many advisers." (Proverbs
24:5-6)
Most survivalist planning focuses on physical needs—food, shelter, clothing,
first aid, self defense. While the physical essentials rightly belong at the
top of the list, there's almost always some empty space left in the locker/bunker/trailer/back-of-the-truck
for...something. What to put in there?
Human beings are social animals, and we need each other; God has woven this
into our genetic code. A "Lone Ranger" survivalist might have an
edge in the short-term, but a group of survivors has a distinct long-term advantage—if
they can overcome the challenges. Other than basic supply-scale issues, the
primary challenges facing larger groups center around communication issues—making
sure everyone is fully informed and knows The Plan. Communication helps build
trust, and trust-based relationships are exactly what you need as a survivor—whether
you're dealing with your family, or with the family down the road, in the next
county, or across the globe.
One of the reasons I enjoy being a technology consultant is the fact that technology
brings people together. Postal mail, telephone, fax, mobile phones, email,
text messaging, videoconferencing, two-way radios...you name it, it's basically
about human communication. As I formulate and revise my overall survival plan,
I find myself evaluating various technology gadgets in this light: Would this
gizmo (whatever it is) provide communication benefits to me if I were in survival
mode, and, if so, is it feasible and reasonable to utilize it in that capacity?
Note that what is "feasible" and "reasonable" are almost
completely subjective, depending on the skill set of the particular individual
or group—those who have a "techno-wiz" or two in their midst
can obviously support more complex technology than others. By evaluating your
group's capacity for utilizing technology, and carefully selecting from some
proven technologies, you can improve your survival capabilities in numerous
ways by improving your ability to communicate within your group of survivors,
be it large or small, and increase your access to outside resources. Here are
some ideas:
Get your ears on. The mobile phone infrastructure may or may not be operational,
and even if it is, your survival retreat might not have decent reception—so
don't count on it. If your group consists of more than one person, odds are
that you will need to split up at some point, and radio communications give
you a huge advantage in almost every situation—especially if you run
up against an aggressor. Anything is better than nothing, so at least grab
a set of inexpensive "bubble pack" FRS/GMRS radios.
Better still, see if you can develop a relationship with a like-minded radio
guy in your
area, and draw upon his expertise. Find yourself an expert and get educated.[JWR
Adds: See the ARRL for a directory that will include a ham radio club
in your area.]
Get eyes in the back of your head...or house. A good survival retreat includes
a security system, and this is a great place to leverage technology. D-Link,
TrendNet and others make decent network cameras, both wired and wireless, for
around $100 each. You can string network wires through the trees, direct-bury,
or go wireless. Virtually any inexpensive wireless access point (e.g., Linksys/Netgear/D-Link
cable/DSL routers, Apple AirPorts, etc.) can be used to provide a basic communications
network for wireless cameras. Using multiple cameras with software like Security
Spy for Macs or NCH
Software for Windows, one person
with a laptop computer can cover a lot of ground just sitting in a chair. You
can even configure the software's motion detection features to alert you (by
making a noise, flashing the screen, etc.) when anything moves, so the man
on duty doesn't have to keep his eyes glued to the screen. Much of this equipment
runs on 12 VDC, so it's perfect for photovoltaic-powered systems.
Own the night. Get some night vision equipment. Others have written extensively
and with much more knowledge on the subject than I possess, but if you can
see in the dark, you have a huge advantage over the guy who can't. Find yourself
an expert and get educated. 'Nuff said. [JWR Adds: One night
vision gear vendor that I recommend is JRH
Enterprises.}
Get connected. What happens to the internet after TEOTWAWKI?
A safe assumption is that the Internet will be unreliable at best, and possibly
unusable. This
may be true to varying degrees on a global or regional scale, but understand
that the internet itself is simply a conglomeration of smaller networks. If
you've built a security network like the one mentioned above, you can use point-to-point
wireless links to connect your survival retreat with your closest like-minded
neighbor (you do know your neighbors, right?), so you can communicate more
quickly and easily. Remember, there is strength in numbers—especially
when you can maintain good communications. What's more, if you build a "mesh" of
interconnected networks, if just one location has internet access, those communication
and information resources immediately become available to the entire mesh.
Remember all those survivalblog.com articles you always meant to print out
but never did? If the server is still online, now you can get to them!
The least expensive wireless point-to-point equipment is generally going to
be a pair of weatherproofed 802.11b/g radios hooked to a directional antennas.
The disadvantage to this configuration is that 802.11b/g is a "line-of-sight" technology
that uses microwave frequencies—so, anything that would heat up in a
microwave oven will attenuate the signal. Thus, if your two locations are
separated by foliage or terrain, you'll have to get those antennas up over
the treetops.
Not only is that a hassle, but it's also a very easy way for non-friendlies
to locate your retreat. In that case, you'd be better off utilizing more specialized
equipment from a manufacturer like Motorola or Trango. It's pricier, but it's
non-line-of-sight (NLOS)
and will shoot through trees.
Light 'em up! A good solar power system is a great addition to a survival retreat
in any case, but it becomes a necessity if you want to leverage electrically-powered
technology. A basic solar power plant is comprised of one or more photovoltaic
(PV) solar panels, which generate electric current whenever they're exposed
to light, one or more deep-cycle batteries to store the excess power for later
use, and
electronics to regulate the voltage and manage the battery charging. Power
is usually delivered at 12 VDC, which can be converted to 120 VAC using an
inverter—though it's more efficient to simply use equipment that will
run on 12 VDC. Don't skimp on photovoltaic gear, and I recommend sizing your
solar panels to at least double your usage projections. For one thing, you'll
always
want more juice than you think you'll need. For another thing, many vendors
quote solar panel performance based on best-case conditions, and even if they
regionalize their numbers for the amount of daylight in your area, they typically
use an average length-of-day instead of the shortest length-of-day, and they
either ignore or underestimate the effects of cloudy days, dust coating, bird
feces, etc. on PV panel performance. Solar power is quiet, too, so you won't
be giving away your position with a noisy generator. [JWR Adds: One
alternative energy system vendor that I recommend is Ready
Made Resources Also, don't overlook the references available at SolarDoc, at Backwoods
Home magazine, and at Home
Power magazine.]
Protect your equipment against electromagnetic pulse (EMP).
The general effects of EMP are fairly well documented, but the specific effects
of EMP on various types of electronic
equipment, and the most effective ways of protecting that equipment, are not
so well-documented. EMP is surrounded by misinformation, urban legend, and
simple unknowns. Most "experts" on EMP seem to agree that the most
straightforward way to protect equipment is probably to store it inside a "Faraday
box," which could be made by lining the inside of a metal filing cabinet
with several layers of newspaper, or wrapping a cardboard box with a couple
layers of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Stored in these containers, your electronic
equipment is reasonably protected against EMP. Note that I said "reasonably." When
we're talking about EMP, we're talking about nuclear attack, and survivability—for
electronics and people alike—is obviously highly dependent on where you
are in relation to ground zero, so all you can do is make reasonable preparations
and pray to God for grace.
Only you can determine whether or not the benefits of these technologies are
worth the money and effort in your particular survival plan. If you decide
to utilize any particular technology, I highly recommend building and testing
the system now, before it's needed. And, of course, you should always have
a "Plan B" for those times when—not if, but when—the
technology fails. EMP, rainwater in the wrong place, a broken wire, and a dead
battery all have the same end result—dead equipment—and you need
to plan for it. Note, too, that the ideas presented here were kept to a basic
level of information due to the limited scope of this article—each topic
would easily merit a fairly lengthy book, if not a complete volume, in order
to be explored to a satisfactory degree—so I strongly encourage you to
seek further knowledge in those systems that are of interest to you.
Again: Find yourself an expert and get educated. If you're an expert in one
or more survival fields, find someone who wants to be educated and teach them.
Being a survivalist doesn't mean you have to be antisocial. Remember that part
of your survival plan should involve building relationships with like-minded
people who have, among them, a diverse enough skill set to be able to handle
the widest possible range of survival tasks. One of the primary uses of communications
technology, aside from its immediate tactical use, is to build and maintain
these kinds of relationships even (or especially) in a survival scenario."Two
are better than one, because they have a good return for their work: If one
falls down, his friend can help him up. But pity the man who falls and has
no-one to help him up! Also, if two lie down together, they will keep warm.
But how can one keep warm alone? Though one may be overpowered, two can defend
themselves. A cord of three strands is not quickly broken." (Ecclesiastes
4:9-12)
Here is a non-exhaustive list of Internet resources, to help get you started:
Night vision:
Sideroad.com
N)Vision
Optics Planet
Point-to-point and outdoor wireless:
Radio Labs
Trango Broadband
Motorola
PTP
MoonBlink
Wi-Fi
Teletronics
Photovoltaic power:
Solar Power Directory
Solar-Electric
EMP protection:
AusSurvivalist EMP Protection Pages
Faraday Cages
1997
Military EMP Hardening Handbook
Parrhesia.com
EMP Hardening Handbook
« Four Letters Re: Advanced Medical Training and Facilities for Retreat Groups |Main
Letter Re: Advice on Stocking Up on Batteries
Sir;
I was wondering: How many batteries should I store for all my radios, flashlights,
smoke detectors, and so forth? I'm also planning to get night vision goggles,
soon. I assume rechargeables, right? If so, what kind [of rechargeables], and
who has
the
best prices? - T.E.
in
Memphis.
JWR Replies: I recommend buying mainly nickel metal hydride
(NiMH) batteries. Stock up plenty of them, including some extras for
barter and charity. Unlike the older Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) technology, NiMHs
do not have
a "memory" effect.
(The diminished capacity because of the memory effect has always been one
of the greatest drawbacks to NiCds batteries.) The best of the breed are the latest Low Self Discharge (LSD) variants, such as the Sanyo Eneloop.
One discount supplier with a
very good selection that I can enthusiastically recommend is All-Battery.com.
They
also have great prices on "throw away" batteries, such a lithium CR-123s.
Main| Note from JWR: »
Retreat Security Planning and Analysis, by Tobin
Planning
The key to successful defense is defense in depth. In each layer of security
it’s imperative to have a full 360 degree protection afforded by
whatever measures, methods or technology you employ. Where it’s simply
not possible to secure your entire perimeter due to terrain or financial limitations,
it’s important to know what’s not completely protected, why it’s
not protected, and what it’s not protected against.
To plan your retreat security, start at the conceptual level. Define what is
to be protected. It might be your primary residence, or it might simply be
a cache containing bug-out supplies. Decide now what the parameters of a successful
defense look like (My food is untouched, 50% of my food is untouched, 25% of
my food is untouched, there are no bullet holes in my roof, etc…). Identify,
in writing, the consequences of failing to achieve the specified parameters.
Doing these things serves two purposes. First, it will help you do develop
the proper scope for your plan. Second, it will help you make some difficult
decisions regarding rules of engagement and alternatives planning.
Threat Assessment
Next, you have to consider what the threat looks like. The threats are specific
to your situation and you have to decide what level of threat you’re
willing or obtain the capacity to defend against. City dwellers might be faced
with threats like small bands of unskilled scavengers, or large groups of semi-skilled
gang members with reasonably good equipment, where the rural resident may be
more likely to encounter small groups of highly skilled woodsmen. Your specific
threat is entirely dependent on where you are, and who is there with you.
What the threat looks like will dictate how you prepare for it, and it’s
definitely not a “one size fits all” exercise. Decide now what
your rules of engagement are, and the level of threat that initiates a flight
response versus a fight response. A threat that is larger, more skilled, or
better equipped than what you prepared for will simply overwhelm your physical
security system. For example, a threat capable of long-distance attack may
never engage your security at all while still being able to attack people or
things at the resource. Concentrating on high-speed avenues of approach will
be appropriate for opportunistic or vehicle mounted threats, but completely
ineffective against the savvy scavenger with a modicum of hunting skill.
Failure to identify the threat correctly might result in too much security,
which could have been invested in food water or power, or too little security,
which will result in someone else gaining the benefit of your preparations.
Security System Design
All security systems have to incorporate three key fundamentals – detection,
delay, and response. You must be able to detect an intruder to be able to respond
to him, and you must be able to respond before he reaches the critical resource.
Detection
Intrusion detection ability comes in many forms, and they have been discussed
exhaustively here and elsewhere. Our primary concern is that the detection
capability is
effective, layered, and sustainable.
It’s imperative that your sensor system have a high probability of detection
with a low false alarm rate (FAR)--where we don’t know why the alarm
went off) and nuisance alarm rate (NAR)--where we know why the alarm went off,
but it wasn’t
something we wanted to detect). In other words, it’s good if the dog
barks, but not if it barks at everything… or nothing at all. It’s
also important to note that people are notoriously poor sensors. Studies conducted
by Sandia National Laboratory indicate that a human has a 2% probability of
detection under normal conditions, and that they are only effective for the
first 20 minutes of a watch. In other words, invest in technology if funding
and opportunity allow you to.
Using cumulative probability equations it’s fairly easy to determine
that several less than perfect sensors arrayed in series can be more effective
that one reasonably good sensor operating alone. One layer of sensors operating
at 90% probability of detection (PD) will cost a fortune and provide a 90%
cumulative probability of detection (PDC). Two layered sensors operating at
70% PD will offer a PDC of 91% at a lower total price:
PDC = 1-(1-PD1)(1-PD2)
= 1-(1-0.7)(1-.07)
= 1- (.09)
= 91%
If possible, place sensors at the perimeter of your property and again at a
defined line within your property. As shown in the example above, two layers
of average quality detection devices are more likely to detect a bad guy than
one layer of good sensors.
Sustainability of detection devices will be a key issue. If your detection
solution is electronic, you have to have means of providing electricity. Fortunately,
many technical solutions are designed to work off of 12 volt DC electric or
AA batteries and have low power requirements. It’s important that you
pay attention to the technical specifications when purchasing equipment. It’s
prudent to acquire replacement units or parts in the event that equipment malfunctions
or is damaged. Electronic sensors and associated support equipment may not
be within your budget. If this is the case, you may elect to go with more cost-effective
biological sensors (dogs, geese and others). They will have a reduced capacity
to warn you when intruders are coming because they can’t observe
your entire perimeter and they, like people, are easily distracted. They require
some level of preparation with respect to food and health care, though this
should be manageable for most budgets. The major drawback to biological sensors
is that while cost effective to purchase and maintain, the opportunity to keep
spares on the storage rack isn’t there. In the event that your biological
sensors are damaged, replacements may be difficult to obtain,
Delay
The objective of an effective delay system is to delay the bad guy from reaching
the objective long enough for the good guys to get dressed, grab their arms,
and engage him in a firefight. In practical terms, the bad guy’s timeline
from engaging the security system (encountering the outermost sensors) to execution
of objective is usually measured in seconds. Your job is to make it enough
seconds that you can respond before it’s over.
Delay can come from mechanical obstacles, or it can come from distance. The
effectiveness of an obstacle is measured in seconds. An 8 foot chain link fence
can be scaled by a human in 10 seconds, and so it’s worth 10 seconds
in timeline calculations. Distance is also accounted for in seconds, but is
dependant on the movement rate of the bad guy. 100 meters is worth 25 seconds
of delay if the bad guy is moving at 4 meters per second. Having a large property
can be an asset if your security system is set up properly, but is not, in
and of itself, an asset. The only barriers or distances that matter are those
that are observed by a sensor system.
Specific delay systems have also been discussed exhaustively here and elsewhere.
It’s important to note that barriers effective against one threat may
be far less effective against another. For example, anti-vehicle ditch works
will provide infinite delay for most vehicles but only a few seconds delay
for a bad guy on foot. On the other hand, a wide open field may delay a bad
guy on foot for minutes, while delaying a vehicle only a few seconds.
Response
The term Response, in the context of physical security, refers to the people;
the tactics, techniques, and procedures (TTP); and the equipment used to neutralize
the bad guys. Here’s where you have to ask yourself four questions:
1.) Do I have enough people to secure my critical resource?
2.) Do I have the right training?
3.) Do I have the right equipment?
4.) Do I have alternative plans?
Under optimum conditions, the US military operates under the assumption
that it takes 5.2 people to man each security post 24 hours a day, seven days
a
week. This assumption accounts for eight hour days, leaves of absence, sick
time, and all of the variables that mean people won’t be coming to work.
It’s
likely that you won’t have the manpower to support more than a post or
two under these conditions. The fewer people you have to man each post means
that, in order to maintain proper security, other tasks start to go undone.
If you have only two people per post, for example, that means 12 hour shifts
seven days a week with no rest – leaving no significant time for farming,
gardening, or other tasks. The alternatives are to accomplish other tasks while
abandoning security requirements, or to make arrangements before TSHTF to group
with other like-minded people to provide around the clock security.
Proper training for response forces is imperative. At a minimum, each person
must be familiar with the rules of engagement and the standard operation procedures
required to accomplish the mission. In many cases, this will mean that you
need to define what the mission is and how it’s to be done and put it
in writing. Additionally, you have to define the threshold for response and
the threshold for flight – put that in writing too. Every member of your
response force should be proficient in every weapon system employed. Ideally,
they’re all using the same weapon type, but in the event that they’re
not, they need to be able to use each other’s arms. Every member of the
security force should also be familiar with the terrain out to the maximum
effective range of their weapons. Advanced training with firearms is desirable,
but not always cost effective for groups of any size. If you ask, I’m
certain you’ll be provided with contact information for half a dozen
quality sources for firearms training.
Proper equipment and familiarity with the equipment breeds confidence in your
security forces. Ideally, all of your people will have identical gear. This
will ensure that spare parts are available and that weapon magazines are interchangeable
in a firefight. A proper kit will include firearms, ammunition, protective
gear, restraint devices, and non-lethal weaponry. Suitable arms for your security
forces will be of a weight and configuration that can be handled by all of
your personnel, chambers a round suitable for your purpose, and has a maximum
effective range that can reach the edge of your perimeter (unless you have
a really huge place!). The bottom line answer to the question “what’s
the best rifle?” is – the one your personnel can use effectively
to put rounds on target. Military security forces in garrison typically carry
120 rounds of 5.56mm ammunition when armed with an M16. Depending on your
arms, you may vary the load out, but in a firefight you really want as much
ammunition as you can carry on an “all the time” basis. Protective
gear, whether in the form of body armor or defensive fighting positions (DFPs),
should be able to handle impacts from any ammunition common in the retreat’s
region. For body armor, [NIJ]
level IV protection is desirable, though the type and manufacturer of the armor
is really a matter of taste. DFPs should
be constructed
with overhead cover – more for comfort than protection (unless the neighbors
have mortars) – and double thick sandbag walls. Restraint devices are
for the bad guys that make it through the initial firefight, or for the bad
guys who surrender before a firefight takes place. There are a number of items
that fit this category, though I won’t offer specific discussion about
any of them except to say that heavy duty wire ties work really well in this
capacity. Last, each of your personnel should have access to less-than lethal
control methods. Most likely, your rules of engagement don’t go directly
from harsh words to lethal firefight – neither should your equipment.
If you’ve given the threat sufficient thought, then you’ll recognize
that the security situation will vary widely by the level of threat present
in your area. While you are planning, make sure that you address as many of
the conceivable scenarios as you can. Once you reach that threshold between
viable defense and non-viable defense, put together pre-planned alternatives
to standing and fighting. Make sure your group knows when to bug-out and where
to go. If possible, pre-position bug-out caches to facilitate these plans.
In conclusion, proper retreat security is a huge, but manageable task as
long as you approach it in the correct context. The specifics on how you address
individual elements within the fundamental areas of Detection, Delay, and Response
are less important than addressing them in a balanced and systematic way. In
order to detect the bad guy, you have to have a means of detection, it has
to be effective, and it has to be on. In order to slow the bad guy down, you
have to have obstacles that are pertinent to his preferred mode of travel,
you have to have enough of them so that his total travel time is longer than
it takes your personnel to get within rifle range, and they have to be observed.
To respond effectively and neutralize the bad guy, your response forces have
to numerous enough to counter bad guy forces, they have to know the rules,
and they must have and be familiar with their equipment. Lastly, in a “no-win” situation,
everyone has to know when and how to get out, and where to go.
« Letter Re: Food Riots in Haiti |Main| Note from JWR: »
The Precepts of My Survivalist Philosophy
In the past week I've had three newcomers to SurvivalBlog.com write and ask
me to summarize my world view. One of them asked: "I could spend days
looking through [the] archives of your [many months of] blog posts. But there
are hundreds
of them. Can you tell me where you stand, in just a page? What distinguishes
the "Rawlesian" philosophy from other [schools of] survivalist thought?"
I'll likely add a few items to this list as time goes on, but here is a general
summary of my precepts:
Modern Society is Increasingly Complex, Interdependent, and Fragile. With
each passing year, technology progresses and chains of interdependency lengthen.
In the past 30 years, chains of retail supply have grown longer and longer.
The food on your supermarket shelf does not come from local farmers. It often
comes from hundreds or even thousands of miles away. This has created an alarming
vulnerability to disruption. Simultaneously, global population is still increasing
in a near geometrical progression. At some point that must end, most likely
with a sudden and sharp drop in population. The lynchpin is the grid. Without
functioning power grids, modern industrial societies will collapse within weeks.
Civilization is Just a Thin Veneer. In the absence of law
an order, men quickly revert to savagery. As was illustrated by the rioting
and looting that accompanied disasters in the past three decades, the transition
from tranquility to absolute barbarism can occur overnight. People expect tomorrow
to be just like today, and they act accordingly. But then comes a unpredictable
disaster that catches the vast majority unprepared. The average American family
has four days worth of food on hand. When that food is gone, we'll soon see
the thin veneer stripped away.
People Run in Herds and Packs, but Both Follow Natural Lines of
Drift. Most
people are sheep ("sheeple").
A few are wolves that prey on others. But just a few of us are more like sheepdogs--we
think independently, and instead of
predation,
we are
geared toward protecting and helping others. People naturally follow natural lines
of drift--the path of least resistance. When the Schumer hits
the fan, 99% of urbanites will try to leave the cities on freeways. The highways
and freeways will soon resemble parking lots. This means that you need to be
prepared to both get
out of town ahead of the rush and to use lightly-traveled back roads.
Plan,
study and practice.
Lightly Populated Areas are Safer than High Density Areas. With
a few exceptions, less population means fewer problems. WTSHTF, there will
be a mass exodus from the cities. Think of it as an army that is spreading
out across a battlefield: The wider that
they
are
spread,
the less effective that they are. The inverse
square law hasn't been repealed.
Show Restraint, But Always Have Recourse to Lethal Force. My
father often told me, "It
is better to have a gun and not need it, than need a gun, and not have it." I
urge readers to use less than lethal means when safe and practicable, but at
times there is not a satisfactory substitute for well-aimed lead going down
range at high velocity.
There is Strength in Numbers. Rugged individualism is all
well and good, but it takes ore than one man to defend a retreat. Effective
retreat defense necessitates having at least two families to provide 24/7 perimeter
security. But of course every individual added means having another mouth to
feed. Absent having an unlimited budget and an infinite larder, this necessitates
striking a balance when deciding the size of a retreat group.
There are Moral Absolutes. The foundational morality
of the civilized world is best summarized in the Ten
Commandments. Moral relativism and secular humanism are slippery slopes.
The terminal moraine at the base of these slopes is a rubble pile consisting
of either despotism and pillage, or anarchy and the depths of depravity. I
believe
that
it takes both faith and friends to survive perilous times. For more background
on that, see my Prayer
page.
Racism Ignores Reason. People should be judged as individuals.
Anyone that make blanket statements about other races is ignorant that there
are both good and bad individuals in all groups. I have accepted The
Great Commission with sincerity."Go forth into all nations" means
exactly that:
all nations. OBTW, I feel grateful that SurvivalBlog is now read
in more than 100 countries. I have been given a bully pulpit,
and I intend to use it for good and edifying purposes.
Skills Beat Gadgets and Practicality Beats Style. The modern
world is full of pundits, poseurs, and Mall
Ninjas. Preparedness is not just about
accumulating a pile of stuff. You need practical skills, and those
only come with study, training, and practice.
Any
armchair
survivalist
can
buy a set
of stylish camouflage fatigues and an M4gery Carbine
encrusted with umpteen accessories. Style points should not be mistaken
for genuine skills and
practicality.
Plentiful Water and Good Soil are Crucial. Modern mechanized
farming, electrically pumped irrigation, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides
can make deserts bloom. But when the grid goes down, deserts and marginal farmland
will revert to their natural states. In my estimation, the most viable places
to survive in the midst of a long term societal collapse will be those with
reliable summer rains
and rich
topsoil.
Tangibles Trump Conceptuals. Modern fiat currencies are generally
accepted, but have essentially no backing. Because they are largely a byproduct
of interest bearing debt, modern currencies are destined to inflation. In
the long run, inflation dooms fiat
currencies to collapse. The majority of
your assets should be invested in
productive farm land and other tangibles such as useful hand tools. Only after
you have your key logistics squared away, anything extra should
be invested in silver and gold.
Governments Tend to Expand their Power to the Point that They Do Harm. In
SurvivalBlog, I often warn of the insidious tyranny of the Nanny
State. If
the state where you live becomes oppressive, then don't hesitate to relocate.
Vote with your feet!
There is Value in Redundancy. A common saying of my
readers is: "Two
is one, and one is none." You must be prepared
to provide for your family in a protracted period of societal disruption. That
means storing up all of the essential "beans, bullets, and Band-Aids" in quantity.
If commerce is disrupted by a disaster, at least in the short term you will
only have your own logistics to fall back on. The more that you have stored,
the
more
that
you
will have
available for barter and charity.
A Deep Larder is Essential. Food storage is one of the key
preparations that I recommend. Even if you have a fantastic self-sufficient
garden and pasture ground, you must always have food storage that you can fall
back on in the event that your crops fail due to drought, disease, or infestation.
Tools Without Training Are Almost Useless. Owning a gun doesn't
make someone a "shooter" any more than owning a surfboard makes someone a surfer.
With proper training and practice, you will be miles ahead of the average citizen.
Get advanced medical
training. Get the best firearms
training that you can afford. Learn about amateur radio from your local
affiliated ARRL club.
Practice raising a vegetable garden each summer. Some skills are only perfected
over
a period
of years.
Old Technologies are Appropriate Technologies. In
the event of a societal collapse, 19th Century (or earlier) technologies such
as a the blacksmith's forge, the treadle sewing machine, and the horse-drawn
plow
will be
far easier
to re-construct than modern technologies.
Charity is a Moral Imperative. As a Christian, I feel morally
obligated to assist others that are less fortunate. Following the Old Testament
laws of Tzedakah (charity
and tithing), I believe that my responsibility begins with my immediate family
and expands in successive rings to supporting
my immediate
neighborhood
and
church, to my
community, and beyond, as resources allow. In short, my philosophy is to "give
until it hurts" in times of disaster.
Buy Life Assurance, not Life Insurance. Self-sufficiency
and self-reliance are many-faceted. You need to systematically provide for
Water, Food, Shelter, Fuel, First Aid,
Commo,
and, if need be, the tools to enforce Rule
308.
Live at Your Retreat Year-Round. If your financial and family
circumstances allow it, I strongly recommend that you relocate
to a safe area and live there year-round. This has several advantages,
most notably that will prevent burglary of your retreat logistics and
allow you to regularly
tend to gardens, orchards, and livestock. It will also remove the stress of
timing a "Get Out of Dodge" trip at the11th hour.
If circumstances dictate that you can't live at your retreat year round, then
at least have
a caretaker and stock the vast majority of your logistics in advance, since
you may only have one trip there before roads are impassable.
Exploit Force Multipliers. Night vision gear, intrusion
detection sensors, and radio communications equipment are key force
multipliers. Because
these use high technology they cannot be depended upon in a long term collapse,
but in the short term, they can provide a big advantage. Some low technologies
like barbed wire and defensive road cables also provide advantages and can
last for several decades.
Invest Your Sweat Equity. Even if some of
you have a millionaire's budget, you need to learn how to do things for yourself,
and
be willing to get your hands dirty. In a societal collapse, the division of
labor will be reduced tremendously. Odds are that the only "skilled craftsmen" available
to build a shed, mend a fence, shuck corn, repair an engine, or pitch manure
will be you.and
your family. A byproduct of sweat equity is muscle tone and proper body weight.
Hiring someone to deliver three cords of firewood is a far cry from
felling, cutting, hauling, splitting, and stacking it yourself.
Choose Your Friends Wisely. Associate yourself with skilled
doers, not "talkers." Seek out people that share your
outlook and morality. Living in close confines with other families is sure
to cause friction but that will be minimized if you share a common religion
and norms of behavior.You can't learn every skill yourself. Assemble a team
that
includes members with medical knowledge, tactical skills, electronics experience,
and traditional practical skills.
There is No Substitute for Mass. Mass stops bullets. Mass
stops gamma radiation. Mass stops (or at least slows down ) bad guys from entering
a home and depriving its residents of life and property. Sandbags are cheap,
so buy plenty of them. When planning your retreat house, think: medieval
castle.
(See the SurvivalBlog Archives for the many articles and letters on Retreat
Architecture.)
Always Have a Plan B and a Plan C. Regardless of your pet
scenario and your personal grand plan of survival, you need to be flexible
and adaptable. Situations and circumstances change. Always keep a G.O.O.D. kit
handy, even if you are fortunate enough to live at your retreat year-round.
Be Frugal. I grew up in a family that still remembered both
our pioneer history and the more recent lessons of the Great Depression. One
of our family mottos is: "Use
it up, wear it out, make do, or do without."
Some Things are Worth Fighting For. I encourage my readers
to avoid trouble, most importantly via relocation to safe areas where trouble
is unlikely to come to visit. But there may come an unavoidable day that you
have
to
make a stand to defend your own family or your neighbors. Further, if you value
your liberty, then be prepared to fight for it, both for yourself and for
the sake
of
your progeny.
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Letter Re: Use of Force in Retreat Security--Planning for Rules of Engagement and Levels of Force
James,
I finished my copy of the [post-nuke novel] "Malevil" [by Robert Merle.] One scene that was particularly well done was when the looter/vandals
start destroying the wheat planting. I could see myself paralyzed by the dilemma:
If they completely destroy my garden,then my family's survival becomes less--perhaps
very much less--probable. When I start shooting them their probability
of survival drops to zero.
From my understanding of decision making, especially decision making under
stress, it is very important to have crystal clear, absolutely unambiguous
triggers or "switches". Pull that trigger or switch and the pre-made
decision is implemented.
Triggers need to be revisited as circumstances change. Rowdies pilfering pears
from the tree in your yard should elicit a different response today than
it would after TSHTF.
I can make the case that anybody who does not demonstrate absolute respect
for another's private property will imperil other's lives post TSHTF. Post
TSHTF, the margin for error will be very much less. The margin
between a child surviving until the next harvest, or not surviving, could easily
be as small
as 25 pounds of corn or wheat. Under a "Malevil" or "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse" scenario I think
I would have few qualms about shooting. However, circumstances that
are less absolute would be very difficult for me.
I suspect that you have given the topic substantial thought. Is there a short
list of questions to "test" a circumstance-a short list that would
be of use to the SurvivalBlog community? Thank You, - Joe and Ellen
JWR: Replies: One important yet sadly under-emphasized aspect
of preparedness is access to less-than-lethal weaponry.
Having less-than-lethal weapons available to supplement your firearms
is important for two reasons: 1.) To show restraint and respect for human life,
and 2.) To keep
you
out
of jail
for
reckless
endangerment, assault, attempted murder, or murder. I cannot overstate
the point that the chances of a full-blown multigenerational societal
collapse are very small, Thus, the odds are that you will
still
have
contact
with functioning police and sheriff departments, and might end up answering
to the criminal justice system if you use unjustifiable or disproportionate
force
in self defense.
Of course if someone is shooting at you, you have the right and duty to defend
yourself and your family. (As a Christian, I found this
piece by Brandon Staggs, and
this
Crusader Knight piece helped me resolve this issue with certainty.)
Do
not endanger yourself unnecessarily
just
for the sake of employing less than lethal
weapons. There could very well be a situation where you think that
you are dealing with an unarmed intruder, only to have them then produce a
concealed weapon.
If that happens, it could easily get you killed. For that reason, I recommend
concentrating on less-than-lethal weapons that you can employ from
a distance.
Anything "up close and personal" has multiple risks. One of the principles
that is stressed again and again when training police officers and prison
guards is that proximity increases risk. If you can maintain distance
form your opponent,
you will minimize your risk of being overpowered or killed. This also meshes
nicely with the "defense in depth" approach that I stress with my consulting
clients. By placing multiple barriers between your family and the bad guys,
you will greatly
increases
your
chances
of avoiding
harm.
Sometimes a display of force will be enough to discourage
looters to go find easier pickings. One of my consulting clients is rancher
in the intermountain west that has large a 3/4"-thick
steel plate hung up on chains above his perimeter fence gate, which is 250
yards from his house. (He has a typical western ranch entry gate with a very
high, stout
crosspiece.)
He's told me is that his intention is that if miscreants stop and show signs
of forcing his gate, he will used a scoped FAL rifle
to apply several rapid shots to that steel plate. He calls it his "Go
away" bell. Hearing that "bell" will be a clear message to the
malo hombres: "You have 250 yards of open ground to traverse to get
to my house. Do you feel
lucky, or bulletproof?"
In hours of darkness, in genuinely Schumeresque times, it is likely
that a semi-auto burst of tracers fired over the heads of a gang of looters
might
have a similar effect. One of my readers also suggested placing Tannerite targets
in prominent positions around a retreat perimeter. Depending on the circumstances,
that might be a good technique for getting ruffians to leave.
One strong proviso: The use of "warning shots" could be misconstrued. State laws on this vary widely. In some states, this is often considered justifiable, but it in others it is
a potential felony. I would only recommend doing this in the midst of a true "worst case" societal collapse, only from a long distance (firing from cover), and only if no law enforcement were available to call. Do
not do this in present day circumstances or you will risk getting sued or prosecuted!
Please don't mistake any of the foregoing as sure solutions.
Merely scaring off looters might not be sufficient. Certainly don't use displays
of force more than once, per customer. The first time should be their
only warning. Be prepared, if need be, to follow it up with a genuine dose
of RBC
if they persist and thereby demonstrate that they plan to do you in.
Here are some other non-lethal weapon options:
Pepper Spray Alarms -
either trip wired or set off by electronic sensor. These can fill
a room with pepper spray in seconds. One variant fires up
to four times in sequence. A friend of mine has one of these mounted in the
vented bottom of a mailbox on his porch. It is wired for activation (on command)
from inside the house.
"Ferret" 12
gauge shells (These are shotgun shells, that instead of lead pellets
contain large capsules of CS tear
gas or OC powder.
They form an irritant dust cloud, on impact. These are not very effective
outdoors, but they are very effective in enclosed spaces.
Say,
for example, you saw an intruder enter your garden shed, but would feel endangered
if you left your house to approach the shed to confront him. Two or three
Ferret rounds fired into the shed would probably do the trick. (Passing through
a
sheet
of plywood,
in fact, is the best way to get full dispersal from a Ferret round.
CS riot control grenades. These are similar to a smoke grenade,
but issue forth huge clouds of CS smoke. I see a few of these at gun
shows, including some that were marketed by Smith & Wesson. They can be thrown, but also
could also be rigged to be set off by pulling a cable or lanyard, from a considerable
distance.
Since most of these these are pyrotechnic, be forewarned that there is a fire
hazard. Some
of the latest ones use CO2 to propel a vapor.
Rubber
bullets and beanbag rounds. These are deigned to bruise rather than
penetrate. (This
ammo was
originally
designed
for
riot
control.) Be careful to aim fairly low to void any pellets striking you opponent
in the face.
Speaking of these, I've heard of rubber bullets being used on moose and bear
in residential areas. These critters often become destructive,
typically tearing apart people's fruit and nut trees. Rubber bullets and 12
gauge beanbags are a non-lethal solution.
Pepper gas and CS (liquid stream or fog) dispensers. These
are risky because they requite proximity. But at least the dispensers are small
and can be kept close
at
hand. Here at the Rawles
Ranch we have occasional ursine visitors, so except in winter
(when bears are denned up) all of the members of our family habitually go armed
whenever
we
step
more than a few yards away from our house. Before they were old enough to
carry
handguns,
our children
usually
carried large 15% pepper spray (OC) canisters.
Tasers. These could be practical, but again, they are only
useful with about 15 feet. I don't recommend them unless you live in a gun-deprived
locality.
Stun guns. Even worse than a Taser, these require direct
contact. I don't recommend them
Impact weapons (Batons, kubatons, walking sticks, et cetera)
These are at the bottom of my list because they require immediate contact.
They also require
considerable
training
and practice. Their application in subduing someone is practically a martial
art form, and is much, much more difficult than portrayed in movies
and television. Too little force can merely be antagonistic or possibly result
in a miscreant
disarming you and use the weapon on you. . Too much force
can be crippling, disfiguring, or lethal. (Any blows to the neck or head, for
example,
are potentially lethal,
and if you use them, in the eyes of the law it would not be much different
than pulling the trigger of a gun.)
You might also find some other weapon possibilities at the Less-Lethal.org web
site.
Without having non-lethal weapons available, your only other choice would
be attempting to use a lethal weapon in a less than lethal manner (typically,
with warning shots.) Do
not consider using a firearm with the intent to wound an
opponent. By doing so, at the very least you will create an adversary that
will most likely seek vengeance
whenever
and wherever he can
get it: There is nothing quite like a vendetta, particularly during
a period of lawlessness. He may later ambush you. He may snipe at your retreat
from
long
distance. He may
poison
your well.
He
may
burn
your
grain
fields.
He may
even
wait and
later meet you in court, where he will have some nasty scars to display. I
regularly get letters from readers, asking about using bird shot or the proverbial
"shotgun
loaded with rock salt". Those are both likely to either get you killed,
or get you sued out of all of your worldly possessions. In short: don't
consider using any intentionally maiming weapon.
Whenever you use amy weapon, you need to think through the implications.
Even what looks like a "worst case" situation might suddenly and
unexpectedly end. When order is restored, you could be facing your opponent
in the most
dangerous
arena
of all: the courtroom.
Think Through Anticipated Levels of Force
When police officers train, they typically learn force escalation. An officer
doesn't doesn't use his service automatic on an unruly drunk. That would be
considered grossly disproportionate force. Law enforcement
officers have detailed rules of proportionate force and force escalation drilled
into them from Day One at the academy. Civilians are not held to
quite
the
same standards, but proportionate force and reciprocal escalation of force
are both long-standing precepts used by the court system in judging guilt
or innocence.
There might be a situation where uninvited guests
are raiding your garden or fruit trees. If it is dark (quite likely), you
may not
be able
to
determine
if they are armed. In such a situation, it might be better to have alternatives
like trip flares or remotely triggered floodlights. Also see some of the recent
SurvivalBlog posts on infrared (IR) floodlights and/or IR cyalume trip flares
used in conjunction with Starlight technology (light amplification) night vision
gear. These will give you a strong advantage and most likely send the ruffians
to flight.
Is Mr. Badguy there to siphon the gas
out of your vehicle, or steal the vehicle itself? Does he want apples from
your orchard, or does he want to kill you and take over your retreat? Is
he there to steal a couple of chickens, or to kidnap your daughter? Does a
stranger merely want a handout or is he looking for the chance to carry out
a home invasion?
How can you determine their intentions? That is a toughie. But there are some
red flags to watch for. If a party that is approaching your retreat dwelling
is entirely armed
men, then odds are that they have murder on their minds. But if a group includes
women
and
children, the
threat
level
is
likely
much lower. (They probably wouldn't endanger them if they were expecting
lead to soon be flying.) Are they dressed in normal clothes, or in BDUs
and war paint?
Is law enforcement help available? If law enforcement evaporates at some
point in the future, even people living inside city limits may be in a comparable
situation.
There is an old saying: "When the only tool you have is a hammer, every
problem starts to look like a nail." Make the effort to acquire
non-lethal weapons. I'd hate to see a SurvivalBlog reader use excessive
force, just for lack of a less-than-lethal arrow in his quiver. Use them,
when possible, but again only if and when doing so won't endanger
yourself or your family.
Ironically, in many
cases
it
is easier
in
the US
to
acquire
lethal
ammo than
it is to buy non-lethal
ammo
and
items like CS
gas
grenades.
(Often,
although they are legal to possess in most jurisdictions,
because of company sales policies they can only be ordered
on law enforcement letterhead.) So finding what you need might take a bit
of looking and/or require the aid of sympathetic intermediaries. Two closing
proviso: Consult your state and local laws before ordering any weapons, be
they lethal, less-than-lethal, or non-lethal. None of the preceding should
be considered legal advise. Consult your local laws and, as appropriate,
seek qualified legal counsel.
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Letter Re: Tradeoffs of Various Retreat Designs
Hi Jim
What are your thoughts on the advantages of basements for cool storage, elevated
construction for flood protection, sod roof/earth contact for insulation versus
steel roofs for water collection?
Perhaps some of the SurvivalBlog readers may wish to submit hypothetical retreat
layouts with advantages and disadvantages and why they would choose a particular
layout design. Regards,- JG
JWR Replies: A sod roof or earth-berming creates
some contradictions in retreat design goals, most notably that they typically
block the defender's view of one entire flank. This
can be partially
mitigated by properly placing supplementary defensive positions. Sod roofs
are also contradictory with the goal of rainwater catchment. My general advice
is: Unless
you also
expect your roof to provide gamma (fallout) shielding, then use metal roofs
in dry
climates.
There are several distinct approaches to retreat architecture. These should
all be modified depending on your local climate and the particular threats
that you anticipate.
In an area with a high water table, earth-sheltered houses can only be considered
if you start out by building above the existing grade, and build up
embankments from there. Details on underground house architecture and design
are
fairly
well described at the
Davis
Caves web site.
In a dry climates with deep wells, water catchment is a paramount concern.
In those areas, I generally recommend one story house designs (to maximize
roof surface area), and metal roofs for the house and all outbuildings, with
rainwater
catchment systems for all of them. Even small sheds should be equipped with
gutters and rain barrels.
Anyone living in a high population density area or that is along a potential
refugee
line
of drift should make the need to repel looters one of their primary
design considerations. This means large cleared areas in all directions ("clear
fields of fire"), ballistic hardening (most easily accomplished by sand
or gravel-filled bags--see my comments later in this post), infrared floodlights
(for use in conjunction with Starlight
scopes and NVGs),
and plenty of defensive concertina wire or razor wire. In essence, you want
to make your house a "tough nut to crack", so that looters will quickly
decide go find easier pickings.
A completely different approach is to make your house blend in with the terrain
and go un-noticed. Outside of heavily-wooded areas, this is very difficult
to achieve. Furthermore, the goal of self-sufficiency brings along with it
the need for barns, greenhouses, wood sheds, photovoltaic panels, and various
outbuildings such as hen houses. It is not realistic to expect that you can
make all that magically disappear.
But at least if
you
live on acreage
in wooded country, you can make the entrance to your property look nondescript.
If you have one of those fancy driveway entranceways, then recognize the fact
that they scream: "Here is the home of someone wealthy." My advice
is to tear
it down. If anything, you want your entrance road to look as much
like a disused logging road as possible. Plant additional screening trees.
Plant native shrubbery to make the entrance narrow and uninviting. If you have
a perimeter fence, you might want to make your entrance gate look as much as
possible like nothing more than a continuation of the perimeter fencing.
Regardless
of where you live, it is important to black out all visible light. Odds are
that
in
a grid-down collapse, you will be one of the few people in your area that
still have electricity. Any visible lights at night will thus attract looters.
So
bes sure to lay
in the supplies
that you'll need to completely black out your windows and make a light-proof "airlock" for any frequently-used exterior doors. (A wooden framework that is
a bit bigger than a phone booth, covered with blankets, works fine.)
As recently mentioned in the blog, extra thick masonry construction is the
best choice for ballistic protection. Another great option is an Earthship tire
house. But even well-reinforced masonry and Earthships are problematic in earthquake
country. There, wood frame construction is ideal,
given
its
inherent
flexibility.
But
what if you live in earthquake country and you want ballistic protection?
What a quandary. Unless you are a multimillionaire that can afford hundreds
of yards of Kevlar, then the only viable solution is to be ready to build
small
sandbag-reinforced fighting positions inside of your house, set back several
feet from the exteriors windows. This will not earn you any
Martha Stewart style bonus points from your spouse, so don't consider
doing this before the
balloon goes up. Just keep
all
of the
requisite
materials handy. That big pile of 3/4"-minus gravel can be explained as "some
extra rock for maintaining our driveway." OBTW, unless your house is
built on a
slab, you will probably
have to heavily reinforce
the floors
beneath
your
planned
sandbagged
positions,
to allow them take the extra weight. If you aren't a do-it-yourselfer, then
have a story ready for any workmen that come to do the job. For example, you
might
tell
them that you have a bad back and are planning to buy a king size waterbed.
Regardless of your design approach, give it some serious thought and prayer.
Life is full of trade-offs. If you can't afford to build a retreat that is
way out in lightly-populated country, then recognize the fact that there will
be lots of hungry, dispossessed people wandering by (or through) your property
in the event of a "worst case." Plan accordingly. Defensive architecture by
itself will
not be enough. Defending a retreat will take 24/7/365 manpower,
and that of course necessitates teaming up with
other families.
The possibility of a worst case situation complete with "mutant zombie
bikers"
is of course very small. Rather, the odds are that in the next Great Depression
the lights will stay on, crime will be relatively under control, and most
of your attention will be
focused
on your garden and orchard output rather than perimeter security. But if and
when
things
ever
do
get truly
Schumeresque,
then the best words of guidance that I can give in a nutshell are: to think:
"medieval castle."
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The "Come as You Are" Collapse--Have the Right Tools and Skills
In the Second World War, the United States had nearly two full years to ramp
up military training and production before decisively confronting the Axis
powers. In the late 1970s, looking at the recent experience of the 1973 Arab-Israeli
War, the Pentagon's strategic planners came to the realization that the next
major war that the US military would wage would not be
like the Second World War. There would not be the luxury of time to train and
equip. They realized that we would have to fight with only what we had available
on Day One. They dubbed this the "Come as you are war" concept.
In my opinion, the same "come as you are" mindset should
be applied to family preparedness. We must recognize that in these
days of rapid news dissemination, it may take as little as 10 hours before
supermarket shelves are cleaned out. It make take just a few hours for queues
that are literally blocks-long to form at gas stations--or at bank branches
in the event of bank runs. Worse yet, it may take just a few hours before
the highways and freeways leading out of urban and suburban areas are clogged
with traffic--the dreaded "Golden
Horde" that I often write about. Do not make the false assumption
that you will have the chance to make "one last trip" to the big
box store, or even the chance to fill your Bug Out Vehicle's fuel tank. This
will be the "come as you are" collapse.
The concept also applies to your personal training. If you haven't learned
how to do things before the balloon goes, up, then don't expect to get anything
but marginal to mediocre on-the-job training after the fact. In essence, you
have the opportunity to take top quality training from the best trainers now,
but you won't once the Schumer hits
the fan. Take the time to get top-notch training! Train with the best--with
organizations like Medical
Corps, WEMSI, Front
Sight, the RWVA/Appleseed
Project, the WRSA,
and the ARRL.
Someday, you'll be very glad that you did.
The come as you are concept definitely applies to specialized manufactured
equipment.You are dreaming if you think that
you will have the chance to to purchase any items such as these, in a post-collapse
world:
razor
wire, body
armor, night
vision equipment,
advanced
first aid gear, tritium
scopes, dosimeters
and radiac meters, biological decontamination
equipment, Dakota
Alert or military surplus PEWS intrusion
detection sets, photovoltaics,
NBC
masks, and semi-auto
battle rifles.
Think about it: There
are very few if these items (per capita) presently in circulation. But the
demand for them during a societal collapse would be tremendous. How could
you compete in such a scant market? Anyone that conceivably has "spares" will
probably want to keep them for a member of their own family or group. So
even in the unlikely event that someone was even willing to sell
such scarce items, they would surely ask a king's ransom in barter
for them. I'm talking about quarter sections of land,
entire strings of
well-broken horses, or pounds of
gold. Offers of anything less would surely be scoffed at.
Don't overlook the "you" part of the "as
you are" premise.
Are you physically fit? Are you up to date on your dental work? Do you have
two pairs of sturdy eyeglasses with your current prescription? Do
you have at least a six month supply of vitamins and medications? Is your body
weight
reasonable?
If you answer to any of these is no, then get busy!
Even if you have a modest budget, you will have an advantage over the average
suburbanite. Your knowledge and training alone--what is between your ears--will
ensure that. And even with just a small budget for food storage, you will be
miles ahead of your neighbors. Odds are that they will have less than two week's
worth of food on hand. As I often say, you will need extra supplies on hand to
help out relatives, friends, and neighbors that were ill-prepared. I consider
charity my Christian duty!
I have repeatedly and strongly emphasized the importance of living
at your intended retreat year-round. But I realize that because
of personal finances, family obligations, and the constraints of making a
living at an hourly or
salaried job, that this is not realistic--except for a few of us, mainly retirees.
If you are stuck in the Big City and plan to Get Out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.)
at the eleventh hour, then by all means pre-position the vast majority of your
gear and supplies at your retreat. You will most likely only have one, I repeat, one G.O.O.D.
trip. If there is a major crisis there will probably be no chance to "go
back for a second load." So WTSHTF will
truly be a "come as you are" affair.
With all of this in mind, re-think your preparedness priorities. Stock
your retreat well. If there isn't someone living there year-round,
then hide what is there from burglars. (See the numerous SurvivalBlog posts
on caching and constructing hidden compartments and rooms.) Maintain balance
in your preparations. In a situation where you are truly hunkered-down at
your retreat in the midst of a societal collapse, there might not be any
opportunity to barter for any items that you overlooked. (At least not for
several months. ) What you have is what you got. You will have to make-do.
So be sure to develop your "lists
of lists" meticulously. If you have the funds available, construct
a combination storm shelter/fallout shelter/walk-in vault. It
would be virtually impossible to build something that elaborate in the aftermath
of a
societal collapse.
A closing thought that relates to your retreat logistics: The
original colonial Army Rangers, organized by Major Robert Rogers during
the French and Indian Wars of the 1750s had a
succinct list of operating rules. The version of the "Rules of Ranging" recounted
in the novel "Northwest Passage" by Kenneth Roberts started
with a strong proviso: "Don't forget nothing." That
is sage advice.
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Letter Re: Advice on .223 and .308 Semi-Auto Rifles and Optics?
Jim,
I've decided to finally purchase an AR-15 type .223. I've decided on a DPMS
Lo-Pro 16 for my .223 carbine. I'm looking into a
Mueller lighted-reticle
scope,
in the area of 2-10x40 or so. Mueller has prices that are quite decent, given
the quality, and the reviews I've read. I also have a friend with a Mueller
setup on his AR-15.
For a .308, I've looked over many of the FN-FAL and
G3 type rifles and their clones, but an AR-type
platform has been highly recommended to me: The
Rock River Arms
LAR-8. It uses the AR-15 design from Eugene Stoner, and accepts Metric
or Inch FN-FAL magazines. This seems to me to be the best of both worlds, inexpensive,
reliable magazines, and the solid AR platform, made by one of the top leaders
in AR type rifles for military and law enforcement.
Please offer any advice or opinions regarding these choices, I value your opinion,
and the opinions of my fellow survivalblog readers. I'd appreciate any input
from folks out there that have the RRA LAR-8, especially. I'm also thinking
of the Mueller scope for this rifle. (Specifically, the Mueller Tactical 4-16x50mm
or the Sport Dot 4-16x50mm both priced around $240-$250.) Thanks again! - R.
in New Hampshire
JWR Replies: I generally prefer gas piston designs, since
the Stoner gas tube design is notoriously prone to fouling. But if you are
scrupulous and consistent about firearms cleaning, then it should serve you well.
The
Rock River brand has a good reputation, and since their .308 AR can use inexpensive FAL magazines, they are at the top of my list. I wasn't aware that
they could accept inch (L1A1)
magazines with the large locking lug. (You might want to double check that.)
I just heard from another reader that Rock River Arms has started shipping
their LAR-.308 in 16", 20" and 24" Barrels. If that will be
your dedicated "reach out and touch someone" long distance shooting
rifle, then you might consider getting the 24" length.
In their short track record, the Mueller scopes have a fair reputation for
quality. Just
one proviso on Mueller scopes: Don't be deceived
by their German-sounding brand name and their clever
"Euro Coating " and "German post reticle" marketing rhetoric. Mueller scopes
are
made in Mainland China, using lenses that are mass produced
in
Japan.
Be sure to a lay in a large supply of button batteries, and
store them in your refrigerator. OBTW, one little known fact is that most low
voltage (1 to 2.5 volt) button batteries can be recharged,
with varying degrees of success. Get
a compact solar button battery charger. (Also great for hearing aid batteries.)
I think that a 2-10x scope for a .223 is overkill, since .223 is not a
500 yard cartridge (unlike .308, which definitely is.) In my experience, a
fixed-power 4x scope
will suffice for a .223 out to 350 yards. And beyond 350, you are using the wrong rifle. I recommend the Trijicon ACOG TA-01-NSN
with the donut reticle. These are much more expensive than a Mueller scope,
but YMMV.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: The Recent Blizzard on I-90 in Wisconsin »
Letter Re: Advice on a Starlight Scope Platform
Hello James,
I've been putting off acquiring a AN/PVS-4 [--a Starlight technology
electronic light amplification night vision weapons sight--] for too long primarily
due
to the expense (and other
priorities).
The time has
come
to
get one from STANO
Components night
vision (and I'll be sure to mention your blog). I'll be getting a Gen2 refurbished
scope with a new [image intensifier]
tube
and the
other details you mentioned recently. I have three options for mounting the scope. I am inclined to mount
the scope on my M1A Match (at present is equipped with a 10x super sniper scope)
but have other options, an AR-15 or a FN-FAL (none of these have optics).
Note: I have one M1A but two AR-15s and two FN-FALs. I do have a Springfield
[Armory M1A] SOCOM (.308) but that is probably not the best choice
here.
I understand
that I should be able to remove/mount the AN/PVS-4 scope without messing up the
zero
each time but would prefer to just mount it on a firearm and just leave it there
as the full time dedicated night firearm. Plus, not having to remount it is just
one less thing to do.
I just want to be sure that I'm not missing anything tactically
or otherwise
before I advise STANO Components to set it up [with a reticle] for .308. Thanks
for any input, - Pete.
JWR Replies: I agree that your SOCOM-variant M1A would be
a poor choice for use as your dedicated night-fighting rifle. They have 16.25"
barrels and consequently have a huge muzzle flash. While a .223 might suffice,
I believe that a .308 is much more effective, particularly at long range. I
would recommend mounting the Starlight scope on one of your
FALs,
for
two reasons:
1.) FAL (and L1A1) flash hiders are fairly efficient.
2.) FAL scope mount top cover have a good reputation for "return to zero" when
removed and reinstalled. Even the inexpensive TAPCO top cover mounts exhibit
remarkable return to zero stability.
And thanks, BTW, for mentioning SurvivalBlog whenever you deal with any of
our advertisers--or any companies that are potential advertisers.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Homemade and Expedient Vegetable Oil Lamps »
Letter Re: SHOT Show Report
Jim,
I just returned from the SHOT
Show held in down in Mordor (Lost Wages,
Nevada.) Here are my top three favorite innovations that I saw there.
1) This product is number one by a long shot. It is a huge monumental leap
in technology for night vision. My buddy just back from Iraq fell over
when he saw it. SuperVision(tm)
Digital Night Vision. Forget the blurry and hazy green from the past. The
new generation shows clear blue-gray out to 300+ yards. Its clarity is
impressive
and the cost is half of the current top offering of night vision. www.xenonics.com
for live video.
Downside-only have handheld unit-working on rail mount for front of scope-due
soon.
2) A 5 inch by 3 inch water purifier that purifies up to 2000 liters, and costs
only $59.95. It fits in the palm of your hand--very small and compact. Made
by Middleboro
Water,
LLC ph. (508) 947-6824
3) A multi-tube Magazine located in fore-end stock of a semi-auto shotgun.
When one tube is empty you rotate the stock to engage a new tube. Total capacity
is
16 rounds.
Made in Meridian, Idaho. See: SRM
Arms PDF and Defense
Review article. [A hat tip to Ron A., for sending those links.]
Cool factor: Beretta Pistol with 1000 diamonds embedded in the pistol grips.
90 carats total. And of course, a Perazzi shotgun set: a .410, 28, 16 and
12 gauge shotgun
set costing a mere $447,000. Pocket change!
The 2008 SHOT Show had 7,000 vendors and new overflow tents in the parking
lot. As you can guess I only saw a percentage of the show in two full days.
God
Bless, - B.
« Letter Re: Best Items to Store for Barter and Charity? |Main| Note from JWR: »
From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists"
Start your retreat stocking effort by first composing a List of Lists, then
draft prioritized lists for each subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or
in a spreadsheet if you are a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out
a hard copy for use when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor
your lists to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density
as well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a retreat
in a coastal area is likely to have a far different list than someone living
in the Rockies.
As I often mention in my lectures and radio interviews, a great way to create
truly commonsense preparedness lists is to take a three-day weekend TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” with your family. When you come home from work on
Friday evening, turn off your main circuit breaker, turn off your gas main
(or propane tank), and shut your main water valve (or turn off your well pump.)
Spend that weekend in primitive conditions. Practice using only your storage
food, preparing it on a wood stove (or camping stove.)
A “TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” will surprise you. Things that
you take for granted will suddenly become labor intensive. False assumptions
will be shattered. Your family will grow closer and more confident. Most importantly,
some of the most thorough lists that you will ever make will be those written
by candlelight.
Your List of Lists should include: (Sorry that this post
is in outline form, but it would take a full length book to discus all of
the following in great detail)
Water List
Food Storage List
Food Preparation List
Personal List
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
Nuke Defense List
Biological Warfare Defense List
Gardening List
Hygiene List/Sanitation List
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
Fuels List
Firefighting List
Tactical Living List
Security-General
Security-Firearms
Communications/Monitoring List
Tools List
Sundries List
Survival Bookshelf List
Barter and Charity List
JWR’s Specific Recommendations For Developing Your Lists:
Water List
House downspout conversion sheet metal work and barrels. (BTW, this is another
good reason to upgrade your retreat to a fireproof metal roof.)
Drawing water from open sources. Buy extra containers. Don’t buy big
barrels, since five gallon food grade buckets are the largest size that most
people can handle without back strain.
For transporting water if and when gas is too precious to waste, buy a couple
of heavy duty two wheel garden carts--convert the wheels to foam filled "no
flats" tires. (BTW, you will find lots of other uses for those carts around
your retreat, such as hauling hay, firewood, manure, fertilizer, et cetera.)
Treating water. Buy plain Clorox hypochlorite bleach. A little goes a long
way. Buy some extra half-gallon bottles for barter and charity. If you can
afford it, buy a “Big Berky” British Berkefeld ceramic water filter.
(Available from Ready
Made Resources and several other Internet vendors. Even if you have pure
spring water at your retreat, you never know where you may end up, and a good
filter could be a lifesaver.)
Food Storage List
See my post tomorrow which will be devoted to food storage. Also see the recent
letter from David in Israel on this subject.
Food Preparation List
Having more people under your roof will necessitate having an oversize skillet
and a huge stew pot. BTW, you will want to buy several huge kettles, because
odds are you will have to heat water on your wood stove for bathing, dish washing,
and clothes washing. You will also need even more kettles, barrels, and 5 or
6 gallon PVC buckets--for water hauling, rendering, soap making, and dying.
They will also make great barter or charity items. (To quote my mentor Dr.
Gary North: “Nails: buy a barrel of them. Barrels: Buy a barrel of them!”)
Don’t overlook skinning knives, gut-buckets, gambrels, and meat saws.
Personal List
(Make a separate personal list for each family member and individual expected
to arrive at your retreat.)
Spare glasses.
Prescription and nonprescription medications.
Birth control.
Keep dentistry up to date.
Any elective surgery that you've been postponing
Work off that gut.
Stay in shape.
Back strength and health—particularly important, given the heavy manual
tasks required for self-sufficiency.
Educate yourself on survival topics, and practice them. For example, even if
you don’t presently live at your retreat, you should plant a vegetable
garden every year. It is better to learn through experience and make mistakes
now, when the loss of crop is an annoyance rather than a crucial event.
“Comfort” items to help get through high stress times. (Books, games,
CDs, chocolates, etc.)
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
When tailoring this list, consider your neighborhood going for many months
without power, extensive use of open flames, and sentries standing picket
shifts exposed in the elements. Then consider axes, chainsaws and tractors
being wielded by newbies, and a greater likelihood of gunshot wounds. With
all of this, add the possibility of no access to doctors or high tech medical
diagnostic equipment. Put a strong emphasis on burn treatment first aid supplies.
Don’t overlook do-it-yourself dentistry! (Oil of cloves, temporary
filling kit, extraction tools, et cetera.) Buy a full minor surgery outfit
(inexpensive Pakistani stainless steel instruments), even if you don’t
know how to use them all yet. You may have to learn, or you will have the
opportunity to put them in the hands of someone experienced who needs them.)
This is going to be a big list!
Chem/Nuke Defense List
Dosimeter and rate meter, and charger, radiac meter (hand held Geiger counter),
rolls of sheet plastic (for isolating airflow to air filter inlets and for
covering window frames in the event that windows are broken due to blast effects),
duct tape, HEPA filters (ands spares) for your shelter. Potassium iodate (KI)
tablets to prevent thyroid damage.(See my recent post on that subject.) Outdoor
shower rig for just outside your shelter entrance.
Biological Warfare Defense List
Disinfectants
Hand Sanitizer
Sneeze masks
Colloidal silver generator and spare supplies (distilled water and .999 fine
silver rod.)
Natural antibiotics (Echinacea, Tea Tree oil, …)
Gardening List
One important item for your gardening list is the construction of a very tall
deer-proof and rabbit-proof fence. Under current circumstances, a raid by deer
on your garden is probably just an inconvenience. After the balloon goes up,
it could mean the difference between eating well, and starvation.
Top Soil/Amendments/Fertilizers.
Tools+ spares for barter/charity
Long-term storage non hybrid (open pollinated) seed. (Non-hybrid “heirloom” seed
assortments tailors to different climate zones are available from The
Ark Institute
Herbs: Get started with medicinal herbs such as aloe vera (for burns), echinacea
(purple cone flower), valerian, et cetera.
Hygiene/Sanitation List
Sacks of powdered lime for the outhouse. Buy plenty!
TP in quantity (Stores well if kept dry and away from vermin and it is lightweight,
but it is very bulky. This is a good item to store in the attic. See my novel
about stocking up on used phone books for use as TP.
Soap in quantity (hand soap, dish soap, laundry soap, cleansers, etc.)
Bottled lye for soap making.
Ladies’ supplies.
Toothpaste (or powder).
Floss.
Fluoride rinse. (Unless you have health objections to the use of fluoride.)
Sunscreen.
Livestock List:
Hoof rasp, hoof nippers, hoof pick, horse brushes, hand sheep shears, styptic,
carding combs, goat milking stand, teat dip, udder wash, Bag Balm, elastrator
and bands, SWOT fly repellent, nail clippers (various sizes), Copper-tox, leads,
leashes, collars, halters, hay hooks, hay fork, manure shovel, feed buckets,
bulk grain and C-O-B sweet feed (store in galvanized trash cans with tight
fitting lids to keep the mice out), various tack and saddles, tack repair tools,
et cetera. If your region has selenium deficient soil (ask your local Agricultural
extension office) then be sure to get selenium-fortified salt blocks rather
than plain white salt blocks--at least for those that you are going to set
aside strictly for your livestock.
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
“Buckshot” Bruce Hemming has produced an excellent series of videos
on trapping and making improvised traps. (He also sells traps and scents at very
reasonable prices.)
Night vision gear, spares, maintenance, and battery charging
Salt. Post-TEOTWAWKI, don’t “go hunting.” That would be a
waste of effort. Have the game come to you. Buy 20 or more salt blocks. They
will also make very valuable barter items.
Sell your fly fishing gear (all but perhaps a few flies) and buy practical
spin casting equipment.
Extra tackle may be useful for barter, but probably only in a very long term
Crunch.
Buy some frog gigs if you have bullfrogs in your area. Buy some crawfish traps
if you have crawfish in your area.
Learn how to rig trot lines and make fish traps for non-labor intensive fishing WTSHTF.
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
One proviso: In the event of a “grid
down” situation, if you are the only family in the area with power,
it could turn your house into a “come loot me” beacon at night.
At the same time, your house lighting will ruin the night vision of your LP/OP pickets.
Make plans and buy materials in advance for making blackout screens or fully
opaque curtains for your windows.
When possible, buy nickel metal hydride batteries. (Unlike the older nickel
cadmium technology, these have no adverse charge level “memory” effect.)
If your home has propane appliances, get a “tri-fuel” generator--with
a carburetor that is selectable between gasoline, propane, and natural gas.
If you heat your home with home heating oil, then get a diesel-burning generator.
(And plan on getting at least one diesel burning pickup and/or tractor). In
a pinch, you can run your diesel generator and diesel vehicles on home heating
oil.
Kerosene lamps; plenty of extra wicks, mantles, and chimneys. (These will also
make great barter items.)
Greater detail on do-it-yourself power will be included in my forthcoming blog
posts.
Fuels List
Buy the biggest propane, home heating oil, gas, or diesel tanks that your local
ordinances permit and that you can afford. Always keep them at least two-thirds
full. For privacy concerns, ballistic impact concerns, and fire concerns,
underground tanks are best if you local water table allows it. In any case,
do not buy an aboveground fuel tank that would visible from any public road
or navigable waterway. Buy plenty of extra fuel for barter. Don’t overlook
buying plenty of kerosene. (For barter, you will want some in one or two
gallon cans.) Stock up on firewood or coal. (See my previous blog posts.)
Get the best quality chainsaw you can afford. I prefer Stihls and Husqavarnas.
If you can afford it, buy two of the same model. Buy extra chains, critical
spare parts, and plenty of two-cycle oil. (Two-cycle oil will be great for
barter!) Get a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps. They are expensive but
they might save yourself a trip to the emergency room. Always wear gloves,
goggles, and ear-muffs. Wear a logger’s helmet when felling. Have someone
who is well experienced teach you how to re-sharpen chains. BTW, don’t
cut up your wood into rounds near any rocks or you will destroy a chain in
a hurry.
Firefighting List
Now that you have all of those flammables on hand (see the previous list) and
the prospect of looters shooting tracer ammo or throwing Molotov cocktails
at your house, think in terms of fire fighting from start to finish without
the aid of a fire department. Even without looters to consider, you should
be ready for uncontrolled brush or residential fires, as well as the greater
fire risk associated with greenhorns who have just arrived at your retreat
working with wood stoves and kerosene lamps!
Upgrade your retreat with a fireproof metal roof.
2” water line from your gravity-fed storage tank (to provide large water
volume for firefighting)
Fire fighting rig with an adjustable stream/mist head.
Smoke and CO detectors.
Tactical Living List
Adjust your wardrobe buying toward sturdy earth-tone clothing. (Frequent your
local thrift store and buy extras for retreat newcomers, charity, and barter.)
Dyes. Stock up on some boxes of green and brown cloth dye. Buy some extra for
barter. With dye, you can turn most light colored clothes into semi-tactical
clothing on short notice.
Two-inch wide burlap strip material in green and brown. This burlap is available
in large spools from Gun Parts Corp. Even if you don’t have time now,
stock up so that you can make camouflage ghillie
suits post-TEOTWAWKI.
Save those wine corks! (Burned cork makes quick and cheap face camouflage.)
Cold weather and foul weather gear—buy plenty, since you will be doing
more outdoor chores, hunting, and standing guard duty.
Don’t overlook ponchos and gaiters.
Mosquito repellent.
Synthetic double-bag (modular) sleeping bags for each person at the retreat,
plus a couple of spares. The Wiggy’s
brand Flexible Temperature Range Sleep System (FTRSS)
made by Wiggy's of Grand Junction, Colorado is highly recommended.
Night vision gear + IR floodlights for your retreat house
Subdued flashlights and penlights.
Noise, light, and litter discipline. (More on this in future posts--or perhaps
a reader would like to send a brief article on this subject)
Security-General: Locks, intrusion detection/alarm systems, exterior obstacles
(fences, gates, 5/8” diameter (or larger) locking road cables, rosebush
plantings, “decorative” ponds (moats), ballistic protection (personal
and residential), anti-vehicular ditches/berms, anti-vehicular concrete “planter
boxes”, razor wire, etc.)
Starlight electronic light amplification scopes are critical tools for retreat
security.
A Starlight scope (or goggles, or a monocular) literally amplifies low ambient
light by up to 100,000 times, turning nighttime darkness into daylight--albeit
a green and fuzzy view. Starlight light amplification technology was first
developed during the Vietnam War. Late issue Third Generation (also called
or “Third Gen” or “Gen 3”) starlight scopes can cost
up to $3,500 each. Rebuilt first gen (early 1970s technology scopes can often
be had for as little as $500. Russian-made monoculars (with lousy optics) can
be had for under $100. One Russian model that uses a piezoelectric generator
instead of batteries is the best of this low-cost breed. These are best used
as backups (in case your expensive American made scopes fail. They should not
be purchased for use as your primary night vision devices unless you are on
a very restrictive budget. (They are better than nothing.) Buy the best starlight
scopes, goggles, and monoculars you can afford. They may be life-savers! If
you can afford to buy only one, make it a weapon sight such as an AN/PVS-4,
with a Gen 2 (or better) tube. Make sure to specify that that the tube is new
or “low hours”, has a high “line pair” count, and minimal
scintillation. It is important to buy your Starlight gear from a reputable
dealer. The market is crowded with rip-off artists and scammers. One dealer
that I trust, is Al Glanze (spoken “Glan-zee”) who runs STANO
Components, Inc. in Silver City, Nevada. Note: In a subsequent
blog posts I will discuss the relationship and implications to IR illuminators
and tritium sights.
Range cards and sector sketches.
If you live in the boonies, piece together nine of the USGS 15-minute maps,
with your retreat property on the center map. Mount that map on an oversize
map board. Draw in the property lines and owner names of all of your surrounding
neighbor’s parcels (in pencil) in at least a five mile radius. (Get boundary
line and current owner name info from your County Recorder’s office.)
Study and memorize both the terrain and the neighbors’ names. Make a
phone number/e-mail list that corresponds to all of the names marked on the
map, plus city and county office contact numbers for quick reference and tack
it up right next to the map board. Cover the whole map sheet with a sheet of
heavy-duty acetate, so you can mark it up just like a military commander’s
map board. (This may sound a bit “over the top”, but remember,
you are planning for the worst case. It will also help you get to know your
neighbors: When you are introduced by name to one of them when in town, you
will be able to say, “Oh, don’t you live about two miles up the
road between the Jones place and the Smith’s ranch?” They will
be impressed, and you will seem like an instant “old timer.”
Security-Firearms List
Guns, ammunition, web gear, eye and ear protection, cleaning equipment,
carrying cases, scopes, magazines, spare parts, gunsmithing tools, targets
and target
frames, et cetera. Each rifle and pistol should have at least six top quality
(original military contract or original manufacturer) full capacity spare magazines.
Note: Considerable detail on firearms and optics selection, training, use,
and logistic support are covered in the SurvivalBlog archives and FAQs.
Communications/Monitoring List
When selecting radios buy only models that will run on 12 volt DC power or
rechargeable nickel metal hydride battery packs (that can be recharged from
your retreat’s 12 VDC power system without having to use an inverter.)
As a secondary purchasing goal, buy spare radios of each type if you can afford
them. Keep your spares in sealed metal boxes to protect them from EMP.
If you live in a far inland region, I recommend buying two or more 12 VDC marine
band radios. These frequencies will probably not be monitored in your region,
leaving you an essentially private band to use. (But never assume that any
two-way radio communications are secure!)
Note: More detail on survival communications gear selection, training, use,
security/cryptography measures, antennas, EMP protection, and logistical support
will be covered in forthcoming blog posts.
Tools List
Gardening tools.
Auto mechanics tools.
Welding.
Bolt cutters--the indispensable “universal key.”
Woodworking tools.
Gunsmithing tools.
Emphasis on hand powered tools.
Hand or treadle powered grinding wheel.
Don’t forget to buy plenty of extra work gloves (in earth tone colors).
Sundries List:
Systematically list the things that you use on a regular basis, or that you
might need if the local hardware store were to ever disappear: wire of various
gauges, duct tape, reinforced strapping tape, chain, nails, nuts and bolts,
weather stripping, abrasives, twine, white glue, cyanoacrylate glue, et cetera.
Book/Reference List
You should probably have nearly every book on my Bookshelf
page. For some, you will want to have two or three copies, such as Carla
Emery’s "Encyclopedia of Country Living". This is because these books
are so valuable and indispensable that you won’t want to risk lending
out your only copy.
Barter and Charity List
For your barter list, acquire primarily items that are durable, non-perishable,
and either in small packages or that are easily divisible. Concentrate on
the items that other people are likely to overlook or have in short supply.
Some of my favorites are ammunition. [The late] Jeff Cooper referred to it
as “ballistic
wampum.” WTSHTF, ammo will be worth nearly its weight in silver.
Store all of your ammo in military surplus ammo cans (with seals that are
still soft) and it will store for decades. Stick to common calibers, get
plenty of .22 LR (most
high velocity hollow points) plus at least ten boxes of the local favorite
deer hunting cartridge, even if you don’t own
a rifle chambered for this cartridge. (Ask your local sporting goods shop
about their top selling chamberings). Also buy at least ten boxes of the
local police department’s standard pistol cartridge, again even if
you don’t own a pistol chambered for this cartridge.
Ladies supplies.
Salt (Buy lots of cattle blocks and 1 pound canisters of iodized table salt.)
(Stores indefinitely if kept dry.)
Two cycle engine oil (for chain saw gas mixing. Gas may still be available
after a collapse, but two-cycle oil will probably be like liquid gold!)
Gas stabilizer.
Diesel antibacterial additive.
50-pound sacks of lime (for outhouses).
1 oz. bottles of military rifle bore cleaner and Break Free (or similar) lubricant.
Waterproof dufflebags in earth tone colors (whitewater rafting "dry bags").
Thermal socks.
Semi-waterproof matches (from military rations.)
Military web gear (lots of folks will suddenly need pistol belts, holsters,
magazine pouches, et cetera.)
Pre-1965 silver dimes.
1-gallon cans of kerosene.
Rolls of olive drab parachute cord.
Rolls of olive-drab duct tape.
Spools of monofilament fishing line.
Rolls of 10 mil "Visqueen", sheet plastic (for replacing windows,
isolating airspaces for nuke scenarios, etc.)
I also respect the opinion of one gentleman with whom I've corresponded, who
recommended the following:
Strike anywhere matches. (Dip the heads in paraffin to make them waterproof.)
Playing cards.
Cooking spices. (Do a web search for reasonably priced bulk spices.)
Rope & string.
Sewing supplies.
Candle wax and wicking.
Lastly, any supplies necessary for operating a home-based business. Some that
you might consider are: leather crafting, small appliance repair, gun repair,
locksmithing, et cetera. Every family should have at least one home-based business
(preferably two!) that they can depend on in the event of an economic collapse.
Stock up on additional items to dispense to refugees as charity.
Note: See the Barter Faire chapter in my novel "Patriots" for
lengthy lists of potential barter items.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists" »
Letter Re: Best Items to Store for Barter and Charity?
Mr. Rawles,
My wife and I are are in our 50s, (never had kids) and we live
in a four bedroom house on 80 acres (mostly leased out [for farming]), eight
miles outside a
town of 20,000
population,
in south-central Iowa. Two of our cousins and one nephew--all military vet[eran]s--that
live in town are planning to come out [and live with us], if and when times
get nasty. We have now have (or will soon have) all our basic preparations
in hand,
including a three year food supply for five people, which
we
got
mostly
through Safecastle and
Ready Made Resources,
plus some extra
meats
from Freeze Dry Guy,
and some canned butter from Best
Prices Storable Foods. We also took your advice
and upgraded to a propane [chest] freezer.
(That took a lot
of
searching, believe me!)
It
now holds almost a a side of beefalo, and almost 15 gallons of frozen
olive oil. (Thanks for mentioning [fats and] oils--that was something that
we had
totally overlooked!).
My wife and I plan to book the four day handgun course and the four day rifle
course back-to-back at Front
Sight, with some
sightseeing in Vegas, on the weekend in between [the two courses]. We are going
in April--before the really scorching
weather starts in southern Nevada. (We've been warned about the summers
there!) Per your suggestion posts, we [standardized] with Glock 21-SF
.45s and FN-FAL clones.
With five of each--not to mention the rest of my [gun] collection, which
was ah-hem substantial before I ever started reading your blog--we
should be able to hold off a small army. We have well water, but have a very
reliable windmill that pumps [water up] to a 850 gallon tank with its overflow
piped to a 2,700 above-ground
concrete cistern for irrigating our garden. Water is not an issue.We also
have oversize propane and home heating [oil] tanks. (Large enough that they've
each prompted
comments
from visitors. I've just told them that I like to buy in bulk whenever
fuel prices dip.)
Now that we have all the basics covered, we are ready to acquire some stocks
for barter, assuming one of your "Grid
Down" collapses. We have plenty of
[storage] space, since our house has a full unfinished basement. FYI, it has
never had any dampness or
flooding
problems.What
do
you
suggest
as the
most important
barter [item] to stock up on? We also want to have extra items for charity.
We plan to do that through our church, so that our family name never
gets
mentioned.
- Karl in Iowa
JWR Replies: It sounds like you are "Away squared"!
For
anyone living in an inland area, I consider salt the
highest priority barter and charity item. Buy a lot of salt,
in several forms. As space allows, buy 20 to 30 of the 50-pound plain white
salt
blocks
from
your
local
feed store.
These are great for barter--both for folks with livestock and for people that
want to attract wild game. Buy a couple of 25 pound sacks of iodized salt for
your own use. Also buy 100 to
200 of
the
standard
cardboard
one pound
canisters
of
iodized
salt
for
small scale barter transactions.
The second highest priority for barter and charity is fuel.
If you have an outbuilding that can provide safe and secure storage, then buy
at least a 20
one-gallon
gallon cans of Coleman stove/lantern fuel, 30 to 50 standard propane cylinders
(the size
used for torches
and camp stoves) and 40 to 60 one-gallon
cans of kerosene. You might also lay in a few extra welding cylinders (Oxygen
and acetylene.)
Also store some bulk fuel. If you can afford it, also install
a 300 to 800 gallon underground gasoline tank and a 600 to 2,500 gallon underground
diesel tank. (And of course make sure that you have at least one diesel vehicle.)
You should carefully camouflage the filler necks and hand pumps for those
tanks, as I've previously described in the blog. (In the "Search" box
in the right
had bar, enter the word "wine".) If you ever use any of your gas
or diesel for barter, do not reveal how much you have stored,
or the fact that you have underground ranks. All that your customers should
be allowed
to
see is a few 5 gallon cans. Also, depending on the local circumstances, you
might also consider getting a pair of used 80 gallon aboveground tanks (typical
farm and ranch tanks on metal stands)
clearly stenciled "Unleaded" and "Diesel" to
leave behind your barn unlocked
and
nearly
empty, as a decoy for burglars.
The third highest priority for barter and charity is common caliber
ammunition.
I have discussed this at length before in SurvivalBlog. (In the "Search" box
in the right hand bar, enter the word "wampum".)
Beyond, those three categories of high priority barterables, if you still
have extra cash and storage space available, see my book SurvivalBlog:
The Best of the Blog - Volume 1 and/or the SurvivalBlog archives for
dozens of other barter items
that have been suggested by blog readers.
OBTW, one of my consulting clients recently suggested buying several extra
pieces of inexpensive night vision gear, such as first generation Russian monoculars.
These would be
in demand
from
any folks fearing nighttime attacks from looters. Since light amplification
night vision gear is still relatively uncommon it would surely be a desirable
item for barter. If you are looking for
night vision
gear, please contact our advertisers such as JRH
Enterprises and Ready
Made Resources,
first.
« Letter Re: Frozen Livestock Water Tank Woes |Main| Notes from JWR: »
AA Cells and Mobile Power, by Brandon in Utah
The size AA battery is the ubiquitous form of mobile power that is presently
available. There is a large amount of off the shelf devices that use AA cells.
They
are available everywhere at low cost. They are cost effective and very safe
for lighting. The breadth and depth of equipment available in a portable
format is unparalleled by any other type of battery. I will cover the known
factors
on how to care for and use this resource to help end users get the most out
of their equipment.
To start, some general information that covers all types of cells. Cells
do not like heat. Heat increases the chemical reactions occurring inside
the cell,
and thus the self-discharge and other chemical reactions in cell. A cell will
lose it's charge and lower it's life span. Keep them cool.
Cells shouldn't get wet. Keep them away from moisture. You should avoid circumstances
that will result in condensation on the cell.
Do not drop or roughly handle them. Especially in the case of rechargeables,
you can break the separator inside the cell and you may end up with complete
cell failure. Inside of a device they're a little more durable, your device
will provide some impact protection and buffering.
Do not store your batteries inside of your device for long term readiness.
There is a good reason they never come this way from the manufacture in the
package.
It's not good for your battery and you run a much larger risk of cells leaking
or venting into your device. On a short term basis in a device that sees regular
use, leaving the battery in is fine.
Matched cells perform better. A battery will only perform as well as the weakest
cell. Avoid mixing brands, dates, and especially chemistries and you will get
the most out of your cells. The more cells a device has, the more matches cells
you need to provide. So it's easier to feed devices that use a smaller number
of cells.
In general, take care of them and they'll serve you well.
Primary (use once) cells are the most straight forward. They usually have expiration
dates printed on the cell or package. It's important to note that this date
is an average amount of time for a specified failure rate. "Fail" is
defined as having less than ~85% capacity (depends on manufacture), thought
it can also mean complete failure with 0% recoverable capacity. The closer
a battery is to it's expiration date, the less capacity it will have and the
more likely you are to encounter completely failed cells. Even with expired
cells though, they often work. I wouldn't choose to use them in really important
applications, but they are still useful.
"Heavy duty" cells generally are not worth messing with - they are
cheap, light weight, and low capacity. They seem to only be made to sell to the "lowest
possible price" consumers. I would never buy or store them.
Alkaline are the best bang for the buck primary cells. You can pick up a pack
of 48 cells for around $10 at COSTCO last I checked (Duracell is believed to
be the OEM for Kirkland brand cells). The price has gone up approximate 10-15%
in the last year, which seems likely to continue. Alkaline's are good performers
under "average" conditions. They do not like low temperatures, and
they do not like high current draw (cameras, some flashlights, and possibly
other devices). Once you place a battery into a device, I recommend you use
it up. Do not return [primary] cells into storage once you've started to
use them.
Lithium cells provide the widest temperature and current rating of all primary
cells, though you pay the most for the best performance. I do recommend having
a few for important gear, red dot sights, night vision,and so forth, [reserving
them] especially for emergency winter use.
Rechargeable cells are much more economical for the regular user. Unfortunately
they require better understanding to maximize their useful life. So I'll go
over NiMH extensively and also address NiCd.
In a quick overview of the current tech of AA cells. NiCd is the most durable
battery chemistry, it has capacities ranging from 600-1000 [mil-Amp Hours]
(mAH)
It has the best temperature performance envelope, endures heat and over charge
best, will
operate with more cycles. NiMH is the most common consumer cell these days,
mostly due to the capacity advantage which run in the 1800-2700 mAH range at
present. NiMH also has a new variant on the market I will dub low self discharge
(LSD) cells. LSD cells are in the range of 2000-2100 mAH as of this writing
and have many advantages over traditional NiMH that mostly come from an effort
to stabilize it. They are new, so some data points are not borne out over years,
but current evidence indicates that they perform as advertised. I recommend
LSD cells for most people over all other varieties, I'll go into more detail
why below. First, the brands and types currently on the market. The top brand
in my opinion is Eneloops (2000 mAH) from Sanyo, it simply does the low-self-discharge
thing better than the competition. The rest of the field
seems to originate from a single manufacture or the same licensed design, but
there are a bunch of competing cells. Rayovac Hybrids, Hybrios, Titanium Enduros,
and a bunch of others (2100 mAH). Given equivalent, or near equivalent prices,
I'd pick the eneloops.
In both types of chemistry, the higher capacity cells are more fragile than
the lower capacity cells. It's an engineering trade off. The 2700 mAH whiz
bang top-of-the-line cells are not your best bet for good durable cells, they
are
actually fairly fragile (chemically and physically) because of this trade off.
Around 2000 mAH is not only cheaper (usually) but yields a cell that will see
a longer service life, more cycles, and less likely to fail if dropped. Lower
than 2000 in NiMH does not appear to hold significant advantage in durability
in most respects. LSD cells appear to be at least as durable as their 2000
mAH NiMH counterparts.
Standard NiMH cells have an approximately life span of 3 years. Cheaper brands
may have less. NiCd cells have an estimated 5+ year life span. Much beyond
these points or even before them (especially with high capacity cells), increased
internal resistance, lowered capacities, and higher self discharge are the
norm. NiCd doesn't exhibit a large amount of this and usually fails with internal
shorts (complete failure) or excessively high resistance. These numbers are
very temperature dependant, colder storage conditions will lengthen the time,
warmer will lower it. LSD NiMH cells currently have no data in this regard,
they're advertised as having better longevity than NiMH cells, and I would
tend to believe them due to the engineering trade offs picked. However, they've
only been out for about 1.5-2 years now. To date, my oldest cells (1.5 years
old), lightly used, perform like new - so far so good.
Self discharge is one of the biggest inconvenient things about rechargeable
cell use. NiMH cells discharge by themselves very quickly. They discharge on
the order of a couple of months when new and the rate increases significantly
with age and use. NiCd cells have about half the self discharge rate and this
usually won't vary much up until cell death. LSD cells shine in this regard,
the self discharge slows down after a charge to almost a stand still in a little
over a months time. LSD cells will retain around 85% (Eneloops) to 80% (rest
of the field) charge after a year of storage at around 70 degrees.
Keeping the voltages up during use is important for many devices and one of
the principle reasons rechargeables deliver poor performance in some devices.
Standard NiMH suffers from voltage sag over time. It will start out at a nice
high 1.4 volts fresh off the charger. Soon it finds it's way to 1.3-to-1.2
v open voltage. If left on the shelf it will fall over time. Many devices require
a minimum voltage to operate correctly, if this minimum is above what your
battery can deliver under load your device will shut down (can be 1.2v per
cell, and NiMH will often fail to meet this under less than ideal circumstances!)
If you experience significant performance difference between primary cells
and rechargeable cells (especially older ones) this is likely the problem,
especially combined with self discharge "usable capacity" drops
very quickly. NiCd cells can suffer from a form of voltage sag, it is not as
pronounced as NiMH but it can also happen in mid-discharge and is related the
over marketed term cell "memory". This problem can usually be corrected
with a couple exercise cycles and a good top off charge. LSD cells retain their
voltage very well on the shelf, like their charge, and also deliver better
than average voltages in normal use anyway. You will usually see much better
performance from LSD cells in these voltage sensitive devices than NiMH or
even NiCd. If you've been frustrated with rechargeables in the past in some
of your devices give some LSD cells a try!
The most common method to kill cells is poor charging practices. I can't stress
this enough, especially with NiMH cells, buy a good ["smart"] charger.
Usually cells are allowed to "cook" on a standard charger for far,
far too long. Remember, heat is bad! It's normal for them to get warm at the
end
of
a charge cycle
(not burning hot!). If they continue to stay warm (or worse, hot) for several
hours later, you have a [traditional "dumb"] charger that is cooking your cells.
I recommend a Maha-C9000 as a good high end charger. On a lower budget I recommend
a Duracell
15 minute
charger. {To be ready for various circumstances,] I prefer to have both chargers
available. The C9000 is a slower charger (relatively) but it will not cook
your cells, you can leave them in the unit. The unit has options that allow
you
to easily
exercise
cells
and
see if they are
improving.
You can match cells to obtain the best performance from them and identify poor
performing cells quickly. It also charges individual cells rather than pairs,
which is better for them - especially a mismatched pair. The Duracell 15 minute
charger is a quality unit that also allows "busy you" to not walk away for
hours waiting for, and forgetting about, your batteries. You will be less likely
to forget about them and allow them to be cooked on the charger. Some good
charging technology goes into the 15 minute chargers, so while they are a little
rough compared to a good slower charge - they are actually very good at what
they do, especially compared to the cheap junk [chargers] on the market. Fast
charging is also fairly energy efficient, reducing the power required to get
a full
charge. Both of these chargers run on 12 volt DC input so they can plug directly
into 12 volt systems allowing for use in a car or directly off a battery based
[alternative energy] system (PV,
wind, etc).
Do not charge cells when they are below freezing (32
F/0 C). You will damage them. If you really need a charged cell, warm it up
in your pocket (preferably the charger too) and use the 15 minute charger.
The charge cycle should provide enough heat to keep it above freezing until
it's done. Avoid chargers that come with your cells, generally they are poor.
When brought out of long term storage, cells will usually need "exercise".
NiCds especially need fairly significant exercise before returning to full
capacity. 5+ full cycles may be required, rule of thumb is exercise until you
stop seeing capacity gains. This is easiest with a charger like the C9000 with
capacity readouts. NiCds should be stored discharged. NiMH cells should be
stored with a charge. LSD cells require significantly less maintenance and
may not need any exercise at all and will likely have a serviceable charge
intact after storage, depending on the length of time in storage and at what
temperature.
NiMH cells like to be treated gently. When you're done with your device, recharge
the cells. The more shallow the cycle the better. Full cycles will wear on
them the most. Keep NiMH cells topped off and they'll last the longest. Occasionally
you may need to perform a deep cycle to restore some performance if the cell
appears to be waning. The more advanced NiMH care systems like on the Toyota
Prius reportedly keep cells at 60-80% capacity and only use about 20% depth
in discharge cycles, which seems to be the most chemically repeatable and stable
region. NiCds stand up to abuse a lot better, in fact a regular full discharge
is good for them and will help you avoid issues with the cells. It's not required
for every charge, but once a month or so should keep it's performance high.
I suggest avoiding C and D size rechargeable cells. They are expensive, there
are no LSD variants at present, your charging options are more limited, they
take forever to charge, and there are adapter sleeves readily available
to make AA cells fit these sizes. D sized alkaline cells are reasonable for
storage
and use for the price. C size cells are usually overpriced and are often repackaged
AA cells anyway - use the adapters. COSTCO presently sells an excellent Eneloop
kit that includes 8 AAs, 4 AAAs, 2 AA->C adapters, 2 AA->D adapters,
and a cheap charger for $26.
Earlier generation NiMH cells had a very poor temperature envelope. There are
evidences that this has improved and the LSD introduction advertised even better
cold
temperature performance. Unfortunately, to date, I am unable to find information
or a datasheet to quantify this. I've done a bit of my own testing down to
0 F, the limit of my freezer, and have found no appreciable drop in capacity
(old NiMH tech struggled below freezing). I can't really quantify if LSD NiMH
is inferior or superior to NiCds at present, so suffice it to say they both
do reasonably well in the cold (just remember not to charge them when they
are below freezing).
In summary, I don't see any reason to buy any non-LSD NiMH cells these days.
LSD tech has dramatically improve the performance and user friendliness of
the cells, and hopefully longevity, durability, and cycle life too. However,
it is new and relatively unproven tech. NiCd is the old known workhorse and
there is good reason why power tools and similar equipment still ship with
NiCd cells. It's worth having a few NiCds around as a backup because of their
track record. For general use, the Sanyo Eneloops are the way to go.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Retreat Group Recruiting and Organization »
Letter Re: How to Win with Asymmetric Warfare, by Robert R.
Hi JWR.
I read the responses to my article and wanted to write a reply that addresses Pathfinder's comments, which in a nutshell said my examples with [registered]
suppressors [for firearms] and night vision were dangerous and would give
the wrong idea about being a "survivalist".
Pathfinder, I appreciate your worry that some people may have an over active
imagination and end up doing some bad things given the ideas for possible tactics
to use in an absolute worst case scenario, or that these tactics may scare
off people who are just learning about survivalist information and browsing
the site. However, as you said yourself, "we do not know how severe, how
long, how dangerous, or how chaotic the theoretical "hard times" can
or even will be! I feel the need to prepare, but I pray that I never need to
use it."
You are totally correct. that "We do not know how severe, how long, how
dangerous, or how chaotic" things will be. For all we know, a terrorist
nuke could go off in Los Angeles tomorrow morning, crash the world economy,
have complete
breakdown of law and order, martial law, and implementation of numerous executive
orders (that are already on the books) that would turn the United States into
something worse than Nazi Germany within a month. So since I don't know the
future and
what it may bring, what harm could it be to allow my imagination to consider
the absolute worst possible scenarios and what I would need to do to survive
them? Night vision and suppressors have excellent non-combative uses. It is
nice to star gaze with night vision, and having suppressors lets me shoot without
hearing protection on.
But if things ever really go south, I can use those things and all the clever
tricks I can think of, to defeat my enemies and be a shining example of what
one free American can do without the aid of a Nanny government. The greatest
strength is in you, the individual citizen. With our freedoms we can arm ourselves,
train ourselves, and protect ourselves and our neighbors during times of crisis.
That is what America is supposed to be about, safeguarding the inherent rights
and freedoms of the individual human being to allow for the greatest growth
and strength of each individual. I choose to exercise my right to bear arms,
of all kinds, and am proficient in their use. And should danger of any kind
ever arise to threaten myself, family, friends, community, or country, then
that danger will be met by what is the single best answer to all dangers--a
prepared American citizen. - Robert R
« Letter Re: Potential for Gold Confiscation in the U.S.? |Main| Note from JWR: »
How to Win with Asymmetric Warfare, by Robert R.
As preface, I would like to say that
I abhor violence and believe killing should only be done when absolutely
necessary, but if things in America ever deteriorate to the point of national
collapse, with murderous gangs of looters, or other violent oppressive groups
wandering the land, it might be worth going on the offensive instead of sitting
tight and hoping for the best. Even in the most well-defended retreat, a
dedicated group of aggressors has all the time in the world to devise an
attack strategy that could defeat you. They could rain .50 caliber rounds
on you from a mile away, or take pot shots at you any time you peek out a
window or attempt to go outside, until you run out of food or ammunition,
or they could set your retreat on fire.
Sometimes it is necessary to go on the offensive to erase the enemy capability
to do you harm. One or two well-equipped, well-trained individuals can defeat
a much larger force. Unconventional tactics must be adopted, with a guerrilla "hit
and run" strategy in mind. Sun Tzu wrote the widely known "The Art
of War" [which is available
as a free e-book.] It is still taught in military
institutions around the world. The concepts laid out all those years ago are
still the same
that
work
today.
For the sake of brevity, this is my extremely condensed version of The Art
of War. (I suggest that you get a copy and study it.) These are the principles
that guide my ideas in resisting an government gone crazy, foreign invasion,
or terrible social disorder where all Schumer has broken loose.
1. When you avoid battle, you are invulnerable. When you partake in battle,
you become vulnerable. (this ties directly with Concept 2:
2. Only choose the battles that you know you will be victorious in. Having
the wisdom to avoid battles you cannot win, and knowing how to strike when
you cannot lose, makes you invincible.
3. It is greater to take the enemy's weapons, equipment, food, resources, than
it is to destroy them.
Concepts explained
1. It is pretty easy to understand this concept. If you never attend the gun
battle, you can never get killed in the gun battle. If you decide to show up,
you risk being shot. This brings us to the next concept, which is extremely
simple if you keep concept #1 in mind, but extremely complicated because…
2…there are in infinite amount of possible variables that could contribute
to your tactical situation. The enemy may or may not have snipers over looking
his "weak" points to pick off possible troublemakers.
The enemy may or may not have any number of tools at his disposal, from land
mines, to guard dogs, thermal night vision, surveillance drones, or any assortment
of lethal and unseen assets intending to capture or kill you.
This is where knowing your enemy comes into play. You have to make a study
out of the enemy. When do certain activities happen? (Guard shift changes,
meal time,
sleep time, patrols, et cetera.)
What is left unguarded and when? What is the chain of command? Where are the
communications located? What events will cause a mobilization of forces? All
these questions and many more must be asked and answered. It only benefits you
to know as much as possible about your adversary.
All that information helps you to decide if you can potentially make a strike
against your enemy without taking losses, or by taking acceptable losses. Acceptable
losses in a group of five family members may mean that only a plan that is likely
to produce no losses is acceptable. But if you are taking part in a full scale
guerilla war against an occupational military force, then some losses may be
acceptable if certain objectives have to be met for victory on a strategic level.
Concept 2 is to only fight when you know you will win. This is done by gathering
as much information as possible and putting yourself in your enemy's shoes so
you can choose when, where, and how you want to fight.
3. If possible, recover any assets from your enemy that may be of potential use.
Magazines, weapons, armor, night vision, batteries, anything.
This also means gathering items of possible intelligence value like; unit patches,
force deployment
maps, supply information, duty rosters, and chain of command information. You
could even steal uniforms for possible impersonation of enemy forces in later
operations.
Your victory is all the sweeter if your engagement not only produces dead bad
guys, but extra weapons and supplies to continue the fight and lessen the strain
on your own supplies.
Make the best use of your money to allow you the most capabilities in combat.
Arm and equip yourself in a manner that allows you flexibility in tactics so
you can choose to fight and win in instances that someone might normally be unable
to fight at all. For example.
Example: John decides he is going to buy an M1A, a FAL, two AR15s, two Mini-14s,
one
Glock, one SIG pistol, one HK pistol, and a couple of revolvers. He buys
10 sets of woodland BDUs
and 3 pairs of GI combat
boots. He spends an additional $2,000 on all the different spare magazines that
he will need for all his
different guns. He spent roughly $12,000 for everything and is essentially
limited
to carrying one rifle and a sidearm, and being camouflaged in a woodland environment
no colder than 45 degrees. The other weapons will stay at home and he can't go
out on operations during
the
winter months because he would freeze.
Example: Bill buys an AR-15, mounts an EOTech sight with night vision
capability and an AAC suppressor, along with 500 rounds of subsonic .223 ammunition.
He buys a set of decent Generation III night vision goggles. He buys a few sets
of BDUs for the summer months and heavier clothing for the winter months, including
cold weather boots. He also buys a .45 pistol with suppressor and pretty much
all .45 ammo in the 230 grain weight is subsonic already. Last but not least,
he
buys a tactical vest to carry all his magazines and side arm in for easy access.
Bill spends about the same amount of money as John, yet is a much more well-rounded
warrior. He can operate in just about any climate, save for extreme weather.
He could sneak around at night with night vision goggles and utilize his suppressed
weapons to take out any threats with barely making a sound [that could be heard
more than a short distance away].
(Subsonic
ammunition
is essential.)
Bill could sneak into an enemy camp and quietly send potentially dozens of people
off into the after life with his suppressed pistol, and walk away without anyone
ever knowing he was there. John on the other hand could do no such thing. John
would stumble through the darkness, possibly bump into someone, and discharge
his weapon, waking up everyone within a mile.
So try to spend your money in ways that add to your capabilities. Some redundancy
is good, but some flexibility is very important as well.
Be creative in your tactics Be creative in your fighting. Use outside
the box
thinking. For instance:
In many previous wars, weapons have been booby trapped to explode when fired.
Ammunition can be loaded to explosive pressures and left for the enemy to find.
Poisons quietly poured into tomorrow's breakfast ration during the night
could potentially incapacitate a large majority of the enemy force in one sitting.
Creating diversions to draw attention away from your main objectives is often
a good idea. Setting fires in multiple places simultaneously creates confusion
and panic. You get the idea, just be creative. Use all things to your advantage!
Most people reading this blog have probably read JWR's novel, "Patriots":
Surviving
the Coming Collapse",
so I will use a few examples of how things could have gone differently if the
characters in the book had some other equipment on hand during
some of their battles.
Somewhat early into the book, a number of vehicles try to attack the retreat
but are stopped by small arms fire and are eventually killed after a gun battle
with some well trained and entrenched defenders. Just to throw out an idea for
additional defensive measures. Create pieces of cover for attackers to use when
attempting to overtake your position. If you are over looking 200 yards of open
grass, you place seemingly harmless things leading up to your position that can
be used as cover. Maybe a small shed that one might think is used for storing
tools.
When attacked, enemy forces will try to use this shed for cover and will take
refuge behind it. Unknown to them, the shed is filled with 50 pounds of Tannerite[--a
binary explosive target mixture that is legal for individual to own without
any permit or license in
most
of
the
US--]
and
gasoline.
When
they
get
close
enough
to
use
it
for
cover,
you
shoot
the
shed,
detonating the explosives and fuel, creating one
h**l of a blast and fireball,
and eliminating [or at least badly discouraging] the attackers that were hiding
behind
it.
Another situation the characters found themselves in was when they were driving
to go rescue two of their own who hadn't been able to make it to the retreat.
On the journey they encounter a road block and one of their members is shot and
killed. That night the two remaining members of the rescue team ambush the road
blockers and kill them during a pretty one sided shootout.
If the rescue team had a set of night vision goggles they could have traveled
completely by darkness and possibly avoided detection. Also, upon spotting the
road block, one member could have approached the road block on foot with a suppressed
pistol and neutralized all the threats as they slept without drawing any attention
to the area with loud gun shots and without risking any team members in a shootout.
I hope that this helps everyone think more outside the box when considering
their preparedness plans. Be as aggressive as possible without being reckless.
Remember the basic concepts and think, move, and fight like a predator.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: The Importance of "Weak Side" Firearms Practice »
Letters Re: A Tactical Hack for R.C. Model Cars
James,
The letters reacting to my friend's mobile, radio-controlled Glock platform make
some very good points. The triggering systems of these particular machines
were built on very simple eccentric cams (powered by cannibalized motor-driven
wheel components) that were intentionally de-powered after a single revolution.
In this configuration, shots were limited to about a one second interval, requiring
another push of the button for another shot. It could've been made into a "rapid
fire" mechanism but the builder didn't see any advantage to such a modification.
The trigger used a redundant system of three simultaneous frequencies in order
to compensate for the potential of radio signal mishaps, and if I recall correctly,
a couple of them were unusual ones (this was above my pay grade but child's play
for my acquaintance.) He figured that the chances of all three required frequencies
hitting the antennae of his creation at the same time, accidentally, was nigh
on to nil. However, I should also add that his proposed usage of these machines
was limited to the most dire of circumstances.
I agree wholeheartedly with the notion that this kind of construction should
be left to the most technically capable among us (building this kind of thing
from scratch as my friend did is well beyond my present abilities). I will also
note that finding a safe place to work on something like this is quite difficult
as any responsible gun range would ban these contraptions as fast as they would
a drunk hand-gunner. The point I was making is that variations of these things
are starting to be purpose-built for the military and that it is inevitable that
the same technology is going to eventually filter down to the civilian market,
from OEMs to home-brew copycats.
In the eight or so years since these "toys" were tested, technology
has jumped by leaps and bounds. New examples could incorporate GPS and software
limiters that specify where shots can't be fired (to protect yourself and your
neighbors) along with a number of non-lethal alternatives including green
laser "dazzlers" which
can be used to temporarily blind or disorient an attacker. They could also be
built without any ballistic hardware, making them simple mobile platforms for
wireless cameras to operate as surveillance in dangerous conditions. In case
it hasn't been said enough already, don't build anything lethal along these lines
unless you're a professional with an ingrained obsession about safety! - Hawaiian
K.
JWR Replies: Use extreme caution and do plenty of research
before contemplating using any laser with the intent to "dazzle" an
opponent. Some laser wavelengths are not considered "eye safe"--they
can cause irreversible retinal burns. OBTW, I discussed both eye safe and non-eye
safe
lasers in my novel "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse" and in a series of articles
that I wrote when I was a full time
associate editor for Defense
Electronics magazine,
back in the late 1980s. These articles primarily described the U.S. Army's
now defunct Dazer (hand held) and Stingray (tactical vehicle/aircraft-mounted)
laser weapon programs. Both had been intended to counter enemy EO sensors,
but were unfortunately indiscriminate in damaging the Mark I human eyeball.
(They used high power Alexandrite lasers, which were not eye safe.) As I recall,
the Dazer program was cancelled around 1992, and the larger
Stingray
system development was de-funded in 1996, right around the time of ratification
of the UN
Protocol on Blinding Laser Weapons. (Main reference:
Rawles,
James W. "Directed
Energy Weapons: Battlefield Beams." Defense
Electronics, August 1989. v. 21, no. 8, p. 47-54.)
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Letter Re: Preparedness for Less Than a Worst Case, From an Eastern Urbanite's Perspective
Hello Jim,
I am very new reader of your blog and am just now starting to go through the
archives. Based on what I’ve read so far, I commend you on putting together
a useful, fact-intensive blog on “survivalism” (whatever that means),
that isn’t geared towards loony, off-the-reservation, tinfoil hat-type
readers, who believe that 9/11 was a plot masterminded by Halliburton.
That said, one problem I suspect I will have with your blog is that you consistently
seem to be preparing for an extreme, and more-or-less permanent, breakdown
of society—or TEOTWAWKI, if you will. In one of your blog posts, you
noted that the problem with preparing for TEOTWAWKI, is that “between
now and then, you have your life to live.” This statement is particularly
true for those of us who don’t live out West, don’t live in rural
environments (let alone, gasp, urban east coast cities), have young children,
drive a minivan, and enjoy otherwise the soft, latte-sipping lifestyles of
Yuppiedom in the second Golden Age of American wealth.
My family and I fall into that category to a great deal. Don’t get me
wrong: I e-ticketed most of my courses at Gunsite, so I’m no head-in-the
sand sheeple. And I’m a pretty capable empty hand fighter. But I also
grew up in the suburbs and didn’t exactly spend my youth learning to
trap, fish, hunt, or plant seeds. I am married to a lovely wife who has no
interest in learning to run a carbine, and we have a young daughter who prevents
us from grabbing bug-out rucks and heading off to the bush for two weeks. In
any event, if we ever managed to actually get from our 30th floor apartment
in Manhattan to the bush, I’m not sure we’d know what to do.
The point I’m making is that there are a lot of people like us—people
who live in cities, who don’t feel in the least bit at home in the outdoors,
who aren’t going to learn about land nav or plotting azimuths, who aren’t
going to buy a bug-out retreat in the country that is going to lie empty 52
weeks a year, and who are basically screwed if TEOTWAWKI actually and truly
arrives.
Barring TEOTWAWKI, it seems to me that we are infinitely more likely to face
moderately scary scenarios, like Hurricane Katrina and necessary urban evacuation,
some urban 1970s style civil disturbance but nothing like Mogadishu, high-intensity
individual criminal acts, a low-order terrorist event nearby and the accompanying
panic, or some other situation shy of the worst case scenario.
We urbanites can prepare for those events, while not being entirely distracted
from our workaday “ordinary” lives, or dedicating ourselves to
trying to get off-the-grid. I certainly have made some attempts to prepare.
For example, I have no doubt that we’re in the 99th percentile of Manhattan
preparedness by virtue of the fact that we own:
- a well maintained and fueled Honda CRV with GPS, local region street maps,
XM radio (for news), an empty 5 gallon gas can, and various vehicle repair
tools
- a (legally permitted) pistol and shotgun, and enough ammunition for a firefight
and reload under civilian ROEs
- $4,000 in cash
- a week of MREs and water, full rations
- a PVS-14 [night vision] monocular
- soft body armor
- basic camping equipment
- various tools like a good knife, a pry bar, Surefire lights, chemlights,
paracord, etc.
- a fully stocked medical kit, 30 days of scrip drugs, and a copy of “Medicine
for the Outdoors”
- personal hygiene gear
- a roll of 1mm poly sheeting and a ton of 100 mph tape
- full face respirators and disposable N100 masks
- GMRS radios, shortwave radio, a hand crank radio
- a ton of batteries
- a USB key and a 500 GB backup drive with all our important information
- 1 box of critical paper documents
- clothing suitable for the seasons
- baby stuff
Most of this gear is boxed, labeled, and stored in a single closet that we’ve
dedicated to SHTF equipment. The other stuff (car, guns, cash, key documents,
etc.) could be policed up in 10 minutes, and is written down on a checklist.
If we had to, I reckon we could shelter in place for a week, or we could bug
out in an hour (assuming, of course, Manhattan was not totally gridlocked).
I’d be very interested in your thoughts about what urbanites should be
doing to prepare for bad times, given the restrictions of space, limited knowledge
of/interest in outdoorsman skills, “Yuppie” lifestyle constraints,
etc. Thanks. - D.C.
JWR Replies: For someone that lives on Manhattan Island,
you are definitely quite well-prepared!
Some preparedness upgrades that I'd recommend for you:
1.) Pre-positioning some
supplies stored with friends or relatives, or perhaps in a commercial storage
space, at least 150 miles out of the city, on your intended
"Get Out of Dodge" route. (For that dreaded "worst case.")
2.) Adding a rifle to your firearms battery. With New
York City's semi-auto and magazine restrictions, you might consider
a .308 Bolt action with either a
small detachable
magazine,
or perhaps a non-detachable magazine. A Steyr Scout would be a good choice.
Some semi-auto rifles that might be approved include top-loading M1
Garands
and FN49s. (No doubt easier if you are a member of a CMP-associated
shooting club.) If you can't get permit approval for any modern rifles,
then there is a handy exemption
for
long
guns
"manufactured
prior
to
1894
and replicas
which
are not
designed to
fire fixed ammunition, or for which fixed ammunition is not commercially
available." You might consider a pre-1894 production Winchester Model
1876 or 1886 in an
obsolete caliber such
as .40-60 or .45-90. (See my
FAQ on pre-1899 cartridge guns for details. Be sure
to select rifles with excellent bores and nice mechanical condition.
3.) A
small photovoltaic panel for recharging your flashlights, radios, and
night vision gear batteries.(Along with a 300+ Amp Hour 12 VDC "Jump Pack"
(such as JCWhitney.com's
item # ZX265545) and 12 VDC "DC to DC" battery charging trays and the
various requisite cords.)
4.) A supply of antibiotics.
5.) Consult your local fire code, and store
the maximum legally-allowable quantity of extra gasoline, assuming you have
a safe place to store it. (I realize that most Manhattanites have their cars
stored commercially with no additional storage space, and it can be a 20
minute car-juggling exercise just to get your hands on your car, depending
on how "deep" you are parked.) If extra gas will be stored in your
vehicle, then be sure to get one or more Explosafe
brand fuel cans,
and strap them down securely so that they will maintain their integrity in
the even of a vehicle collision.
You might consider upgrading to a mid-size 4WD SUV (such as an E85-compatible
Ford Explorer) and have it fitted with an auxiliary roof rack where you can
carry extra gas cans. (Again, I realize that most Manhattan parking garages
have height limitations, but do your best.)
« Letter Re: Nutritional Supplements and Preparedness |Main| Letter Re: Advice on Sources for a FN FAL Clone Rifle »
Letter Re: Home/Retreat Power Generator Noise Reduction by "Jerry the Generator Guy"
Jim,
One thing to note about generator noise reduction. It's not just a matter of
running quiet by normal standards. It's a matter of running quiet when nothing
else is making any noise. With the grid down, a lot of normal background
noise will be gone. That was one reason for my choice of solar electric power
over a generator. - Raymond
JWR Replies: Remember that light discipline will be
just as important as noise discipline, post-TEOTWAWKI.
It is important to have the materials on hand to black-out your windows. Regardless
of your
power
source,
if you have
power when nobody else does for blocks--or miles, then your house would be
a "come loot me" beacon at night. Buy a stack of 1/2-inch plywood and two dozen
2"x4"x8'
studs now. Carefully measure and cut inserts for
each of your windows, and label each of them for quick reference. The edges
can be
wrapped
with rags
or old
blankets. They can be tacked in
place (so that they don't fall inward) with finishing nails or power screws
driven in above, parallel to the sheet of plywood. At the same time, build
a framework of 2x4s so that
you can
make a
relatively light proof "airlock"--something a little bigger than a phone
booth. It can be covered in opaque blankets. That way you can open your front
door without fear of a blast of light escaping. T o be prepared for any
overlooked light leaks, buy a few cans of expanding insulating foam (such
as Dow "Great Stuff",
available at any hardware or building supply store such as Lowe's or Home
Depot)
and some dark spray paint.
Once
you have your blackout shutters up, do a check for light
leaks.
As a final test, look for light leaks while wearing night vision goggles. (You
will be amazed at what you missed!) It takes considerable effort to make a
house that light-proof. But perhaps that
is overkill,
considering
the capabilities of most would-be looters.
« Letter Re: Advice for Newbie on Food Dehydrating, Canning, and Storage |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Night Vision Gear for a Long Term Collapse
Sir:
I'd appreciate your advice. I am in the process of getting my family dialed-in
for a long term collapse. (My main concern is a post-Peak
Oil economic collapse.)
Since I expect "the problem" to last at least 5 or 10 years before the economy
gets reorganized (at a much lower level, and prolly much more dispersed and
localized),
I have worries that if I get a Starlight scope or goggles that they will
be inop[erative]
within three or four years, given constant use. From all that I've read, even
the best [light amplification] tubes eventually burn out. I'm also worried
that it would take 40 or 50 rechargeable batteries--even those gee whiz nickel
hydride "no memory" batteries to last me [through the scenario]. What is
the best alternative for someone
looking
at a 10+ year problem, yet still wanting the advantages of Starlight-type
technology? And is there anything else that is low tech (other than friggin'
bells on strings) that I can use for night time defense of a retreat out
in the
wilds? Thank You Sir, -
Allen
D.
JWR Replies: There are a couple of alternatives that
I can suggest. First,
is buying a brand new "low hours" Gen 2 or Gen 3 night vision scope that
uses standard type AA batteries plus a spare intensifier tube,
and of course plenty of spare batteries. My recommended suppliers for Starlight
weapon sights and goggles
are JRH
Enterprises and Ready
Made Resources. For full mil-spec units as well as spare intensifier tubes,
talk to
STANO Components. For
additional rechargeable batteries at a discount price, contact All-Battery.com. As
previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, every
well-prepared family should also have a small
PV panel for battery charging.
One lower technology alternative to Starlight technology, as described in
my novel
"Patriots",
is tritium-lit
scopes, such as those made by Trijicon.
I am often quoted as saying that I consider them "the next best thing to a
starlight scope." I still
do. We have six of these scopes
on our rifles here
at
the Rawles
Ranch, including three ACOGs. The
half-life of tritium
(a gaseous isotope of hydrogen) is 11.2 years, meaning that through
radioactive
decay they have one-half of their original brightness after
11.2 years. So the practical effective life of a tritium scope is
22 years, and the practical effective life of tritium
iron
sights is 33+ years. (The latter are much too bright for my liking when
new from the factory. We have three Colt M1911 series .45 ACP handguns that
were retrofitted with factory-fresh Trijicon iron sights in 1994. Now, some
13 years later, in my opinion they have
only just
now "mellowed"
(by
radioactive
decay) to the point that I consider them practical for tactical night shooting.
I probably won't have them replaced until around 2024. Trijicon scopes and
iron sights are available at quite competitive prices from CGW.
(One of our advertisers.) Tell them that Jim Rawles sent you.
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Letter Re: The Importance of Stocking Up on Batteries
James:
I have been corresponding with an infantry soldier (E-6 [pay grade]) in Iraq
named Ray that I met through AnySoldier.com.
BTW, thanks for running that free ad for them on SurvivalBlog. All those "forgotten" soldiers
need our real support--not just a "Support
Our Troops" yellow ribbon magnet on the backs of our cars. In the last
8 or 9 months I have sent more than 30 "care packages" in [Priority
Mail] Flat Rate boxes to [AnySoldier.com addressees
in] Iraq
and Afghanistan.
In our e-mails, one of the things that Ray mentioned a couple of times really
impressed me: It is that one of the crucial logistics for modern armies
is spare batteries. He described how they go through hundreds of
them, for radios, tactical flashlights, sensors, laser target illuminators
and designators, and night vision gear/thermal sights. As I look forward to
potential hard times in this country, I think that we should learn a lesson
from the Iraq experience: never run out of batteries.
So I've resolved to never let my family run out of batteries, even if the "problem" lasts
for a decade. I took your advice and got a small [5 watt] solar [photovoltaic]
panel from Northern
Tool & Equipment
which
I've already rigged to charge batteries, using an "automobile" (12
volt DC) charging tray. (It looks like a regular home charger, but it has a
12 volt [input power] cable with a cig[arette] lighter plug.) This gives me
straight DC-to-DC charging, without an energy hogging inverter in the middle
of the equation.
Thanks also for making that suggestion! For my retreat , I'm planning to buy
one of the
8 watt panels from Safecastle, in a similar battery charging arrangement.
That way I'll have a separate charging system, even if I have to E&E on
foot and leave my 5 watt battery charging panel at home. I've also stocked
up very heavily on nickel
[metal]
hydride
[NiMH] batteries.of various
and sundry
sizes,
plus
some
of the older nickel cadmium [NiCd] batteries, and some Duracells. My question
is: What more should I do, and what is the best way to store all of the batteries
that I'm acquiring? Thanks for all that you provide for free in SurvivalBlog.
You should make the 10
Cent Challenge mandatory. Maybe with a password for most of what is on
your site that only paid subscribers would have. You are way too generous.
Giving it all away is no way to make a living. With Kind Regards
-
Paul
G.
JWR Replies: Thank you very much for raising this important
issue. You are absolutely right. Without a reliable long term supply of batteries
we will lose some of our best tactical advantages for retreat security: radio
communication, electronic intrusion detection systems, and night vision goggles/sights.
Think about it: The only way that a small group can effectively defend
a rural retreat is with these technological advantages. Without batteries,
we would soon be back to 19th Century technology and tactics. Since modern
tactical electronics are "force multipliers", the lack of them would
reduce the effectiveness of our defensive measures. Making up for that
loss would necessitate having a lot more manpower. And more manpower
means more retreat floor space and more food. That additional food means more
land under cultivation, and more land under cultivation and means a larger
perimeter to defend, and so forth. You can see where this logic leads: Instead
of owning a little two family 20 acre low profile retreat, you'd need 10 to
12 armed and trained adults and perhaps 40 to 100 acres, depending on rainfall
and soil fertility. Being the local Lord of the Manor is not conducive to keeping
a low profile!
You are right that it is wise to stock up on batteries. Try to get rechargeable
batteries for as many devices as possible. In fact, compatibility with
rechargeables (versus expendable "throw away" batteries) should be
a key determining factor when selecting any electrical or electronic equipment. My
favorite source for batteries via mail order is All-Battery.com.
(One of our affiliate advertisers.) They have great prices and a huge selection.
If space permits, you should store all of your small batteries in a sealed bag (to prevent condensation) in the back of your refrigerator.
This will extend their useful life.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Two Letters Re: Advice on a Budget Rifle Battery for Retreat Security »
Letter Re: Some Observations on Self-Sufficiency and Retreat Security
James,
I greatly appreciate SurvivalBlog and the solid, thoughtful info it contains,
and have printed out numerous posts for future reference. It seems for many
the
ideal
is having a bug-out location, so perhaps readers could glean some useful information
from my experience owning and operating a fair-sized ranch, one of the goals
of which is to be as independent as possible.
Specific observation on particular issues:
WATER
Top of the list, everything else is secondary. If you don't have indoor water
for cooking, bathing, toilets, etc., the quality of life quickly plummets. Try
hauling all of the water you need from the creek for a few days and you'll agree.
Make a reliable water supply your top priority.
Absent a pure gravity-flow situation from a spring or lake, without outside electricity
you can lift water with a wind-powered mill, solar pump, or conventional submersible
pump powered by a generator. Because of our location in central Texas with abundant
sunshine, we chose to employ solar-powered pumps. They cost about the same as
a windmill but pump more water and are far more reliable. We currently have three
solar pumps made by Grundfos, each powered by two 170 watt solar panels. Two
of the pumps are in wells about 100' deep, the other is in a spring-fed lake.
These types of pumps have the huge advantage of using both 12 volt or 220 volt
standard power, so they can be powered from the grid, by generator, from the
solar panels, or even by jumper cables from a vehicle, which gives lots of options
to keep the water flowing. You just have to be certain to unplug the solar panels
from the system before using 220 volt power. The pumps supply 3,000 gallon storage
tanks with float valves; when the tanks are full the float cuts off the flow
of water and a pressure switch at the well turn off the pump when pressure reaches
60 lb. The storage tanks then supply water gravity flow to the house and orchard/garden.
We also have 10,000 gallons of storage which catches water from the roof, and
can be routed into the house by simply opening a valve.
No matter how carefully a plumbing project is planned and materials lists are
drawn, such as adding more irrigation to the garden, for example, it is rare
to complete work without another trip or three for additional materials. I would
advise having plenty of spare fittings and pipe, as well as items like pressure
switches, breakers, and on/off switches. It is also an obvious advantage to have
a standard pipe size, say 1 inch, so spare parts are interchangeable.
Give a great deal of thought to your water system. Good planning at the start
will allow different aspects to be tied together for redundancy, as well as prevent
haphazard add-ons later, not to mention needless expense. Once the system is
in place and operational, it is relatively maintenance-free, with only the rare
switch failure or even rarer leak.
POWER/FUEL/OIL
For household use such as cook tops, ovens, hot water, and even lighting, propane
is hard to beat. With a large tank (I recommend a minimum of a thousand gallons),
the supply can be stretched to last for years. And propane has zero storage problems,
being practically immortal.
Diesel and gas storage have been discussed at great length, so I won't add to
that here.
It's hard to have too much two-cycle oil to mix with gas for chainsaws, as well
as motor oil and filters (start saving used motor oil for chainsaw lube), hydraulic
oil, grease, and differential lube. Also, we have more problems with tires (due
to cactus and mesquite thorns, primarily) than any other mechanical problem,
so gallon jugs of a tire sealer product and a reliable way to air up tires, even
if only a hand pump, is essential.
Cooking oil, lamp oil, and light lubrication oil can be pressed from sunflowers,
walnuts, pecans, flaxseed, peanuts, and many more. A simple hand-cranked press
(www.piteba.com) looks to be adequate for household use, though I can give a
further report once my sunflowers ripen next fall and I've given it a thorough
test-drive. Olive oil can be used for the same purposes, though olives will only
fruit in the far southern reaches of the US and the equipment to extract the
oil is fairly expensive. Even so, we've planted a dozen olive trees and we'll
see how they do.
Solar power with an inverter is an option I'm exploring for running power tools
and refrigeration, but as yet have no direct experience with it. But it seems
a viable alternative, with limits.
GARDEN/ORCHARD
It takes a vast amount of experience and experimentation to reliably grow, process,
store, and save the seeds from vegetables (Grandpappy's thoughts on seed saving
were excellent, BTW). If the extent of your preparations in this area is a supply
of heirloom seeds and three books on gardening, I've got some bad news: you're
gonna starve. But don't despair, a great deal can be learned on a small scale:
grow just a couple of tomato, squash, beans, peas, etc., and keep experimenting
and saving seeds until you find what works best in your location. Once you know
how to grow particular vegetables, it's relatively easy to ramp up the area to
grow a significant food supply. But if starting from zero, it will take several
years to become proficient.
Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are the way to go for most vegetables, at least
in our locale, as they not only save water but reduce weed competition. Corn
is the only plant I still put in rows and irrigate in the conventional way.
Our orchard is only now coming of age and starting to produce, as the trees are
four years old. The forty fruit trees are also drip irrigated when necessary.
One of the biggest problems related to fruit trees, aside from pests and diseases,
is varmints; coons, possums, and ringtailed cats. Our solution when the fruit
is ripening is leaving a dog in the fenced-in orchard at night.
We obtain more food from our 1.5 acre orchard and garden than we do from the
rest of the ranch combined, and we only plant a small portion of it each year,
so production could be greatly expanded in a pinch.
SECURITY
The whole key to security, in my view, lies in not being surprised. If the first
inkling I have of trouble is when six vehicles with twenty-five armed men slide
to a stop in my yard then I'm in exceptionally deep Schumer. So a layered approach,
as James has outlined, makes excellent sense. Observation Posts (OPs) and MURS-type
detection equipment [such as a Dakota
Alert] are essential to having early warning
to
problems,
and
for
most of
us, if we're
alerted, we'll be a very tough nut to crack.
A couple of good, well-trained dogs much more than pay their own way, acting
as an alert and deterrent for intruders, as well as trailing game, barking at
poisonous snakes, and, as mentioned earlier, keeping varmints out of the orchard
and garden and away from the house. At the risk of blaspheming, if I had to pick
only one rifle , it would be a .223. Now I'm well aware that a .308 has a lot
more energy, range, and penetration, and I have several battle rifles in .308
that
I
love, but for one weapon to carry everywhere, every day, .223 is my choice.
First of all, I can't begin to count the number of deer and large feral hogs
I've killed with one shot from a .223, so I have plenty of confidence in the
round. But from a more practical standpoint, I've been amazed when carefully
reading history with the number of settlers killed by Comanche indians in the
old days right in this area because they were caught unarmed. And I realized
they
were
usually caught unarmed because it's hard to weed the garden, cut wood, catch
a cow, plow a field, wash clothes in the creek, butcher a hog, gather pecans,
and a thousand other practical tasks when constantly toting a heavy rifle.
And the same may well hold true for us someday. A six and half pound .223 in
AR platform or Mini-14 will be a lot more likely to be at hand when needed in
the midst of constant work than a twelve pound H&K. Your mileage may vary,
of course. - Bois d'Arc
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Letter Re: Hidden Retreats Versus Open Fields of Fire/Visibility
Hello;
Thanks for your efforts and the structure of your blog. I appreciate the lack
of flaming and demeaning commentary. Wanted to get more input on this subject " Hiding
retreat versus open fields of fire/visibility". We are leaning towards
camouflaging, as much as possible views of our home from the road. However,
this conflicts with my Army provided training, where on fire bases, we have
open fields of fire and high visibility. I believe we need a compromise.
As a less than visible retreat will avoid [confrontation with those who are]
the less observant. But open fields of fire/ visibility give us tactical
advantage. I would like to see some discussion on this please. I am aware
of some fast growing trees, very fast that can help with camouflage. Thanks
so very much. - EG
JWR Replies: You've brought up one of the most frequently
asked questions from my consulting clients. It is the classic contradiction:
concealment
versus defendabilty. The most defendable positions are on barren hilltops,
but those are also the most visible from a distance.
Ideally, you could pick a retreat parcel that can provide both open
fields of fire out to 50 or 60 yards yet not have a house visible from nearby
roads. But of course this isn't always possible. So you have to ask yourself:
What
do
I expect
to
happen
in
my region in the event of a socioeconomic collapse? Will there just be an increase
in burglary, or out-and-out attacks/home invasions by large organized groups
of looters?
In my estimation, light discipline will be more important than line
of sight issues. I foresee that a post-TEOTWAWKI world
will be very dark at night. Just a few weeks into the problem, even the houses
owned by people that
have backup generators
will go dark, as they begin to run out fuel. If you have an alternative power
system (PV,
wind, micro-hydro) then don't flaunt it. It is essential that you put
blackout curtains backed by black sheet plastic
inside all of your windows. Be sure to check for light leaks, preferably using
night vision goggles. Even heavy wool blankets and drapes tacked up inside
your windows will leak light, but backing them with heavy black
sheet plastic (not just black trash
bags)
does
the trick.
(Tape the sheet plastic in place over the windows, leaving no gap where
the sheeting meets the window frame, using opaque duct tape.) Without proper
blackout precautions, your
house
will
be a "come loot me" beacon that can be seen
for miles
at night.
But with proper light discipline, at
least your house will look anonymously dark--like those of your neighbors,
who have no power. Consider getting infrared (IR) floodlights
to light the exterior of your house. They can be motion sensor activated. That
way, unless
your potential
attackers have night vision gear, your house will appear dark, but your yard
will actually be well-illuminated (as seen through your night vision goggles.)
If you can afford to buy a large parcel, I recommend a layered defense that
is adaptable to changing circumstances. (All the way up to the dreaded "worst
case" societal collapse.) The outer-most layer is where you should install
your seismic intrusion detection sensors. This
gives you
early warning
of
approaching malefactors. Any access roads should also have a MURS frequency
Dakota Alert (or
similar) wireless IR beam motion detector. Then, depending on your
situation
you might want a screen of trees for concealment. Next, some
open
ground, then
a tall
chain
link fence. Then more open ground close to your house and outbuildings. This
area should be crisscrossed with tanglefoot wire. (Which I will describe later.)
Lastly, thorny bushes beneath each window, and beefy steel shutters.
Even well-manned retreats should supplement their guard staff with both dogs
and
intrusion
detection systems. Reliable night vision gear is also a must. But please
note that technology by itself is insufficient. Intrusion detection, communications,
and night
vision technologies are force multipliers, but you still need underlying
force. It takes 24/7 manpower to defend a retreat. I describe how
to set up and man LP/OPs and
a CQ desk
in my novel. "Patriots"
Now, getting back to concealment: There are advantages in most situations
in adding some "privacy screen" trees to block the view of your house from
any regularly-traveled roads. Depending on the lay of the land, leaving 30
yards of open ground (for defense) and then another 10 yards of thickness for
the
privacy
tree screen
will probably
necessitate a property that is at least 10 acres.
Some
fast-growing
screening tree varieties include Portuguese
laurel (prunus lusitanica) and Leyland
Cypress. In cold climates, Lombardy
Poplars do well. Parenthetically, a continuous hedge of all the same
tree variety will be perceived as an obvious man-made planting, at just
a glance. So
it
is
best to plant
a mix of tree varieties with semi-random spacing, to
make your screening grove look more natural.
Regardless of what you decide to do in terms of concealment, be sure to leave
at least 20 yards (60 feet) of open ground for last-ditch "ballistic
defense." To slow down intruders, think in terms of gates, cables, and "decorative"
berms
to stop vehicles. Install a chain link fence. This will
keep your dog(s) in and at least slow down the bad guys. Remember the
old military axiom: Any obstacle that is not under continuous observation and covered by [rifle] fire is not a true
obstacle--it
is just a brief delay to the advance of the enemy.
Keep some concertina wire or razor
wire
handy, but do not install it in pre-Schumer times.
This wire should
be installed
only after it
is clear
that law
and order has completely broken down. At that point appearances and pre-Crunch
sensibilities won't be nearly as important as a ready defense. In fact, odds
are that when your
neighbors
see you stringing concertina wire, they will ask if you have any extra that
you can spare! You can install concertina wire or razor
wire on the top of your fence, and if you have plenty of it available, some
more staked-down horizontal rolls, just beyond your fence.
Both inside and outside of your "last ditch" fence, you can crisscross
some tanglefoot wire (as described in my novel)
This type of wire is designed to slow down attackers--preventing them from
charging your house. It should be strung at random heights between 9 inches
and 40 inches off the ground. This is just one of the last layers of a layered
defense. Every second that your
various
obstacles
slow
attackers
down
represents
one
more second
available to stop them ballistically.
All of the foregoing, of course assumes the unlikely worst case. But by being
ready for the worst you can handle any lesser threats with ease.
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Two Letters Re: Night Sights for Pistols
Jim,
I can definitely say that the XS
Sights work as advertised. I've tried
them on the Mini-14 and AR-15 carbines, and in both cases they enabled
accurate 100 yard plinking at night and fast acquisition with full
sights. With a peep-sight equipped rifle, the Tritium front is the
most worthwhile upgrade. If you can see the sight through the opening,
you're going
to hit what you're pointing at. For around $100, this is a very worthwhile
upgrade for any gun that gets used at night. - Arclight
Jim,
While reading earlier today OSOM's posting re "Night Sights
for Pistols", I remembered an advert in a recent issue of Shotgun
News, which showed two products (named "Diamond
XT"; and " Diamond
SAS;
from a company that calls itself "Nikko-Stirling
Optics." The visual, located on the "XT" page, appears
to be just what the proverbial doctor ordered, for such CQ
and CQ/T (courtesy of IOR - Valdada and Leupold) situations which may
pop
up. Better than the long in use 3-dot system? Would seem so to me.
- Ben L.
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Letter Re: Tritium Night Sights for Rifles
Mr Rawles:
Given that it is illegal anywhere that I know to hunt at night, and extremely
inadvisable to hunt in low-light conditions - what in the heck are they making
night sights for that fit hunting guns? It does seem okay to make them to
fit on a rail - as backup, but for a typical battle-outfitted rifle with
an ACOG or
EOTech you can't use those sights, they would be obstructed by the base.
And if you're going to put backup iron/night sights on a hunting
rifle - would the money be better spent on a scope with an illuminated reticle?
I may be barking up the wrong tree, but could someone correct my logic if
I'm wrong in believing that XO has produced a product that is nearly illegal
to use, with a limited market? - Jim H. in Colorado
JWR Replies: "Self defense" is a legitimate
use to cite as justification for installing night sights. Also, in
most states, hunting some species of predators and varmints--most
notable
raccoons
is
done
almost exclusively
at night, and allowable under fish and game regulations.(See you
state's "hound hunting" regulations.) I haven't heard of
these sights being illegal in any state, but pleas correct me if
I'm wrong. I highly recommend getting tritium sights on all of your
battle rifles,
as
a backup
to a tritium
lit scope, such as an ACOG. Ditto for you hunting rifles if you can
afford to do so.
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Letter Re: Night Sights for Pistols
Dear Jim:
After doing some night shooting courses with no night sights on my long gun
- ( bad idea :-( ) I found XS
Sights for long gun tritium retrofits. Fortunately, I was also introduced
to their pistol sights for faster day and night sight shooting
- 24/7 Express Sights.
You really need to see the photo to appreciate the design, but basically it
make the rear notch a very shallow V with a tritium "I" bar in the
low center. The front sight is tritium surrounded by a big white
dot - so you get the tritium at night, but also a big white
dot for faster day and low light shooting (when [the glow
of] tritium is not as noticeable). Typical pistol combat distances of 1 to
15 yards you just put the dot on and shoot. Over 15 yards you focus on the
top of the dot for a more precise aiming point, and to avoid shooting slightly
high.
Having done some Force on Force courses, I realized how valuable making a "flash" sight
picture even quicker could be, so I got a set of the Big Dots to test. (Standard
size is a compromise - not worth it, go for the Big Dot.)
Bottom line they are significantly faster for combat shooting. These are not
precision target sights, but my IDPA accuracy stayed the same in practice and
competition. The big improvement was that sight alignment came I'd say roughly
20% faster. Finally won my division in the area match after putting on the
XS Express Sights!
I'm taking off my 3-dot tritium sights and retrofitting all my carry pistols
with the Big Dot. Regards, - OSOM
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Letter Re: Advice on Affordable Yet Reliable Night Vision Scopes
Jim:
Who makes the best Gen 1 and Gen 2 night vision optics? I am not sure
I can afford to purchase Gen 3 for five people at this time. I can
afford
Gen 1, maybe Gen 2.
Thanks, - Martin
JWR Replies: I'd recommend that you purchase a professionally
re-manufactured U.S. military contract Gen 2 scope
such as the AN/PVS-2B. Beware the many "kitchen table" re-manufacturers
out there! Buy a full mil spec scope from a reputable vendor such as Ready
Made Resources or STANO
Components, that will have a genuine, new, Gen 2 image intensifier
tube with a bona fide data sheet.
The following is some guidance and contact information that I included in my
newly-released Rawles
on Retreat and Relocation book:
Late issue Third Generation (also called or Third Gen or Gen 3) starlight scopes
can cost up to $3,000 each. Rebuilt first gen (early 1970s technology) scopes
can often be had for as little as $500. Russian-made monoculars (with lousy
optics) can be had for under $100. One Russian model that uses a piezoelectric
generator instead of batteries is the best of this low-cost breed. These are
best used as backups--in case your expensive American made scopes fail. They
should not be purchased for use as your primary night vision devices
unless you are on a very restrictive budget. (They are better than nothing.)
Buy the
best starlight scopes, goggles, and monoculars that you can afford. They may
be life savers! If you can afford to buy only one, make it a weapon sight such
as an AN/PVS-4, with a Gen 2 (or better) tube.(Or the bulkier AN/PVS-2 if you
are on tight budget.) Make
sure to specify that that the tube is either new or has very "low hours",
that it has a high line pair count, and it that displays minimal scintillation.
(My troops used
the
highly technical term "The
Sparklies"to describe the scintillation phenomenon.)
Again, it is important to buy your Starlight gear from a reputable
dealer. The market is crowded with rip-off artists and scammers. (A
Russian
importer who shall remain nameless once offered to supply a U.S. dealer
with forged data sheets "at no extra charge" with
each starlight scope purchased wholesale. Caveat emptor! As
previously mentioned, in addition to Ready
Made Resources, another dealer that I trust is Al Glanze (spoken "Glan-zee")
who runs STANO Components in Silver City, Nevada. Contact: STANO
Components, P.O. Box STANO, Silver City, Nevada 89428 FAX: 775-246-5211.
Phone 775-246-5281/5283 or 1-888-STANO-FX (1-888-782-6639) Or e-mail:
NV@night-vision.com
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Letter Re: Yukon Gen 1 Night Vision Rifle Scope - A Product Review
Jim,
I had delayed writing a review of the Yukon
night vision rifle scope because I have to wonder who
else is reading your site. I don't want to do
a disservice to all the good folks that visit your [blog] site.
I surely don't want the bad guys knowing the following. Unless they
stumble on it themselves. If they are going to use one I would rather
they use one of these gems. I may buy a few
other night vision scopes just to see if the problem is in the design
or I got a bad one. Here's what I
found:
The scope is a Yukon Gen 1 with a illuminated circle/dot reticle, 1.5x42mm
NVRS. It has an IR illuminator that supposedly gives it a 350 yd. range.
I found that when the scope is first turned on with the illuminator
off the operation is normal. The resolution is poor...it was a challenge
seeing a 4x6 foot target board 100 yards down range. I had an equally
difficult time
finding my (black) horse in the pasture 50-60 yards out with fresh
batteries. With the illuminator on targets were easier to spot and
maintain.
Now the fun part: After the illuminator was switched off the IR source
continued to produce an output albeit at a LOWER INTENSITY but VERY
visible.
So, not sure what I was dealing with, I ran a test. While in a very
dark closet the NVRS was switched on nv only and I donned a NVG to "see" what
I
would find. Nothing. Okay. I then switched on the illuminator which
functioned fine. I then switched off the illuminator and sure enough
there was
a healthy glow emanating from the IR diode. I waited quite a while
and re-checked the IR just to be certain I was not seeing some persistence
in the diode and/or circuit that drives the diode and it was still
producing an
output. I shut off the NVRS and the IR glow was still present. If the
batteries were removed from the NVRS and after the IR circuit discharged
the NVRS and illuminator would function normally until the IR switch
was again out in the "on" position.
I can assume that either the IR driver has a component leaking current
to the diode, a very long time constant on a capacitor or the "problem" is
in the design. Either way this is one accessory I would not want to
have
on me in a TEOTWAWKI situation.
The green "power on" indicator LED is
bad enough.
It lights up the operator's face as a beacon in the night!
So, as you can see - if the problem is in the design and not confined
to the one that I had - I would rather the bad guys have the scope.
I do tell those I trust, respect and would like to see remain at 98.6
degrees F. - Joe
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Letter Re: Prowlers and Lighting
Jim:
What do you and your readers suggest for someone living in a rural
area who needs a good strong light for prowlers? I live on top of a
mountain in a cove surrounded by three sides by hills.
On occasion, we have trespassers at night riding the ATV trails
along the hills who are out to steal tools, gas, etc. There have been
more
than a few occasions when I've walked out to my car late at night to
get something and realized there were people in the trees.
One night I turned my rather anemic Surefire 6P [flashlight] in their
direction, and spotted the bottoms of boots or tennis shoes heading
up the hillside.
What Id like to have is advice on a good hand-held spotlight that I
can use to pick out people in the trees up on the side of the hill
late at night. Is this a viable option for an armed person, or should
I just try and get a 120 lumens lamp for one of my Surefires?
Do rural folks maintain any light equipped firearms for nighttime problems
with prowlers, or even predators after their livestock? Thanks, - L.K.
JWR Replies: To properly answer your questions, I
need to do so to address two disparate circumstances, pre-TEOTWAWKI and
post-TEOTWAWKI, which in many ways necessitate mutually exclusive security
preparations. I
once had a consulting client tell me that he was planning to purchase
a big 10 KW propane
generator for his isolated
retreat, so that he could power numerous
vapor lamps around his house, if and when the Schumer hits
the fan. It took a while
to convince him that he needed to think about some alternatives, to
match both his locale and the severity/circumstances of potential
Schumeresque situations. Let me explain:
Pre-TEOTWAWKI: Under present circumstances, security
lighting is a benefit.
You will have law enforcement available to call. Prowlers aren't likely
to shoot at you. For pre-TEOTWAWKI, it is best to think
in terms of active defenses, such as vapor lights, 1,000,000 candlepower
12 VDC handheld
spotlights (such as those sold by US
Cavalry Store
and JCWhitney.com),
full spectrum trip flares, noisy dogs, peafowl, and noisy electronic
alarm systems.
Post-TEOTWAWKI: At some future date, security lighting
could be a potential hazard.
If and when the power grid goes down, the few families that have alternative
energy
will be very noticeable, especially as time goes on and stored fuel
for generators begins to run out. After that juncture, the few folks
with alternative energy (wind, solar, microhydro, etc.) will be very noticeable
unless they are careful. The consensus among looters may very well
be: :"If the have the money to
make their
own electricity,
then
they
have things worth stealing." You do not want to present a "come
loot me" beacon at night! In fact, it will be best to make blackout
covers for all of your windows that can be installed from inside the
house.
These can be fabricated from scrap cardboard. Check carefully for light leaks.
Some other differences, post-TEOTWAWKI: You will have no law
enforcement available to call. Prowlers will
be likely to shoot at you. For post-TEOTWAWKI, it is best to think
in terms of passive defenses, such as starlight scopes, infrared chemical
light stick trip flares, quiet (but alert) dogs, tanglefoot wire, concertina
wire, and silent alarm systems. (See the Profile
for Mr. Tango for some ideas on infrared floodlights
that can be used in conjunction with night vision equipment.)
Regarding your question about mounted lights: With the exception
of infrared illuminators, I generally discourage mounting lights
on guns intended for use post-TEOTWAWKI. If left turned on for more
than just an instant before shooting, a visible light mounted
on a gun can turn you into
a natural target. If you feel the need for illuminating targets for
post-TEOTWAWKI security, then I'd recommend that you be the armed man
hidden in the shadows
that
remotely
turns
on a
floodlight.(As opposed to being the man holding the light--or holding
the gun with an attached light--who in effect announces: "Here I am!"
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Letter Re: Thermal Scopes Versus Light Amplification Scopes
Dear Jim:
I know your site talks about night vision ["Starlight" light amplification
technology], but thermal night vision if you can afford it is far superior
for hunting/perimeter
defense/tracking.
It doesn't
matter
about movement or camouflage [since these can literally see body heat.] See:
http://www.imaging1.com/thermal/Thermal_weapon_sight.html and
http://www.imaging1.com/thermal/MX_1000.html
- S.F.
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Letter from The Army Aviator Re: A Source for Night Vision Scopes
I've been running night vision since I learned to fly with them back in 1978.
Not to disparage the writer's comments about how good the "Mini-14" monocular
is, because it is a good unit. However, it's been my experience that the PRC-14Delta
(Government) model is even better. Yes, a papered version costs more than a
civilian Mini-14 but
it's worth the money. And, as an additional note, the manual gain adjustment
of the PRC-14D is invaluable. It's there for a reason. You strap it on and
adjust the gain until you have maximal effectiveness of both eyes (One aided
eye and one un-aided eye). Auto gain doesn't allow for that and limits you
to only using one eye to effectively see. It's normally too bright to utilize
both eyes, especially in dark arenas.
I use automatic gain adjusting Night Vision weapon scopes, but for the head
unit, automatic gain adjustment doesn't work well.
Further, don't confuse ABC (Automatic Brightness Control) with gain adjustment.
ABC is a p
