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From Mike Williamson: Some Useful DIY Home Power Technology Web Links
The following links will be of interest to anyone interested in do-it-yourself (DIY) power generation and 19th Century technology. Most of these come from Lindsay Publishing. [JWR Adds: They are also one one of my favorites!] :
Generator and Inverters
Wood into Charcoal and Electricity (although the generator design is at best a temp make-work design while you scrounge to build a better one).
Gas Engines and Producer Gas Plants
DIY Wind Turbine Power Plant (The best DIY design out there, although you might find a cheaper copy elsewhere).
DIY Machine Shop (This is a Gingery design, not suitable for those that are clumsy)
Other Wood Gasifier DIY Books.
A FEMA-designed wood gasifier that will hold you over while you build something better, if you are lazy and wait until it is almost to late. Not even remotely the best design but it is quick and fairly easy to build. It is titled: "Construction of a Simplified Wood Gas Generator for Fueling Internal Combustion Engines in a Petroleum Emergency/"
I hope that folks find these useful. - Michael Z. Williamson (SurvivalBlog's Editor at Large)
Prefabricated Garden Sheds as Instant Shelters and Storage Spaces for Retreats
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Letter Re: Advice on Deep Water Wells in a Grid-Down Era
James,
I know that I have seen posts about deep water wells, but when I search I really don't see that many applicable posts. I am looking at a property where water [static level] is about 400 feet down. In a "grid-up" scenario, this isn't really a problem, but I am looking for "grid-down" options for using a well at this depth. Not knowing much about the specifics of wells, I am not having much luck searching with Google, either. Would you be able to cover some deep well basics and some options for grid down/solar/backup pumping, specifically for deep wells?
Thanks so much for the blog. I have been an avid reader (pretty much daily) for two years and have several copies of your book to loan out to friends. - John C.
JWR Replies: As per your request, here are a few deep well basics:
Solar and wind power are the best solutions for deep wells in a grid-down collapse. If you live in an area with reliable winds, a windmill used in conjunction with a large gravity-fed tank or cistern, is relatively inexpensive and trouble-free. Photovoltaics are getting less expensive with each passing year, but system complexity is an issue, especially with systems that use a battery bank. (To maintain water pressure during hours of darkness, you will either need to store water in a gravity-fed cistern, or you will need a battery bank, so that you can operate your well pump. )
Deep wells can be pumped with submersible AC pumps, but not submersible DC pumps. This is because the "line loss" (voltage drop) in DC cabling is tremendous. Even with fat, heavy gauge DC cables, if you start out with 24 Volts DC (VDC) at your battery bank, you will likely be down to just two or three volts at 400 feet! Given that sad fact, there are two good solutions:
1.) Use a DC-to-AC inverter top-side, and run AC cabling down the well shaft to an AC well pump. (Note: Many of these pumps require 220 VAC, so you will either have to use a much more expensive 220-capable inverter, or replace the pump with a 120 VAC model. (You may be an electrical neophyte, and asking "What type of pump do I have?" Take a quick look at your AC circuit breaker box. If the breaker labeled "Well Pump" is a pair of breakers that are ganged-together with a wire loop so that they'll be actuated simultaneously, then the chances are 99% that you have a 220 VAC pump.)
or,
2.) Install a jack
("cricket") type pump or a windmill to
actuate the sucker rod pump cylinder. Traditionally, sucker
rods were made from hardwoods
such as white ash.
More recently they've been made with metal or fiberglass. Even with ash wood,
their service life is measured in decades. The pump cylinders are made of brass
and
will last
many decades.
However, the pump
leathers will eventually wear out, so you should consider buying a
couple of spare sets and storing them someplace safe from mice and moisture/mold.
Unfortunately changing all of the leathers on a down-hole sucker-rod actuated
pump means yanking the entire sucker rod and then the
weight of all 400 feet of your service line. That is a lot of
weight, requiring a heavy duty hoist and of course all the usual "mind your
head, fingers and toes" safety precautions and protective
gear. Lifting a 1-1/2"
or 2" diameter 400 foot long
pipe is no problem for a pump company, but it would be a challenge for a typical
rural
family working with an improvised hoist. I recommend that you watch your
pump company man carefully as he installs the pump in your well for the first
time. You will notice that the crucial piece required is the flange that catches
the
pipe
unions
on each 20+ foot long section of service line pipe as they are raised or lowered
in the well casing.
I've previously owned a jack type pump, and in my experience I
found them problematic. I would much rather use an AC
submersible pump.
Shallow wells (say, 50 feet or less) can be pumped with a DC submersible pump. I generally advise my consulting clients to "hang" both an AC pump and and a DC pump, one above the other in the same well casing, for the sake of versatility an redundancy.
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Letter Re: Pros and Cons of Propane Storage
James,
Having a lot of propane on hand has some serious issues. Homeland Security via "Emergency Planning and Community Right-to-Know Act" (EPCRA) requires anyone that has more than 10,000 pounds of virtually any hazardous material (except for explosives and radioactive materials that have their own unique requirements), to report that quantity to the State Homeland Security Office, the local Fire Marshal, and the Local Emergency Management Manager yearly. These reports are open to anybody that wants to see them. (Now you know how the bad guy knows where the stuff is, all they have to do is ask and the Emergency Manager has to give them the information by law). I am not making that up, either. I am a member of the Local Emergency Planning Committee (a county wide group with members appointed by the state) which is responsible for looking about, finding illegally stored material and requiring compliance. To comply with the act, I file what is known as a Tier II report to the three agencies listed above yearly listing propane, diesel, and gasoline quantities on hand and a set of plans of the operation showing where such is stored. So if being off the radar is important to you [then keep under 10,000 pound limit.] I always try to work within the system. Of course if the system fails, all bets are off anyway.
After several years of working on the project (more pointedly, working with the vendor), I have the capability to pump propane from a pair of 1,000 gallon tanks that are connected on the bottom for propane liquid connection. The skid based 12,000 pound full unit has a 240 volt power supply to the electric pump that does the work moving liquid propane from the storage to the smaller tank it is filling. If the grid is up, the pump will run on it, when the grid is down, I have an automatic generator that kicks in (that just happens to run on propane) that will power our main well and power the [electric] propane pump motor.
Of course with propane, there is always a security problem. You know, someone sitting up a high hill with an API bullet just waiting for the right time to set off the show. Big white tanks make an easy target. Hopefully, we will have our perimeter secure if there is that need. Take the advice though. Camouflage the tanks asap if Schumer gets spread by the fan. Otherwise, white or silver reflects heat very well and keeps your propane tanks happy.
I have also purchased a 250 gallon propane tank that I fabricated onto a skid using 2x6 rectangular steel incorporating a pair of forklift ports. I can pick this tank up with a diesel powered skid steer and since I had the small tank plumbed on the bottom for liquid with the proper connector, I can feed liquid propane by gravity 250 gallons at a time to any tank on the ranch. It is very difficult to talk your local distributor to participate in this kind of project because they are turning you into a potential competitor. But because I live 15 miles from the nearest asphalt road and over 60 miles to the nearest town. Power outages for a week are not uncommon. If the whole grid went down for a year, we would still have power periodically as we fill the stock tanks and keep the freezers cold. Overall, I believe we have a bit over 7,000 gallons of propane which would power our "headquarters" for many months and maybe years if used part time. It will keep indefinitely if kept comfortably cool with no additives needed.
Yes, I have a propane powered vehicle. However, if you put propane into a vehicle to use as fuel, you should be paying state tax on that propane (and federal no doubt soon). Therefore I would never suggest such an action unless you know your local state tax collector personally. I, of course fuel my propane powered vehicles at the local propane fill operation. Unlike Agricultural Diesel (Red) and Residential Fuel Oil (Green), Residential Propane has no marker to trace where it came from. The last time I filled my truck with propane, it was 2.70 a gallon with residential use propane being (summer rate) at $1.49. The trick of course is having the right nozzles. Being able to fill vehicles and small 25/35 pound tanks (BBQ tanks), is a really handy thing. Good luck getting those nozzles. They are worth more than silver by weight and they are made only of bronze. Again, the trick is to get your local distributor work with you. You can't just find this stuff on the internet, I know because I tried.
Propane fired vehicles have several advantages. Because propane is such a clean burning fuel, combined with synthetic oil in your crankcase, you don't have to change the oil very often. Perhaps several years between oil changes if you only use the vehicle sparingly. I have put over 10,000 miles on an oil change before and it really didn't look dirty though it may have lost some of it's lubricating qualities. Synthetic oil is more expensive but doesn't break down and stays much cleaner than oil in engines fired with gasoline and especially diesel fuel tanks. Propane wins hands down.
Another advantage, when there is the next mass evacuation, lines will form at any gas station that is open. There won't be any lines at your local propane distributor. Heck, if you get the right adaptor, you could hook a BBQ tank up to your vehicle. (That is illegal by the way but in a pinch......).
Most propane conversions enable dual fuel use. Either regular gasoline or propane may be used by my personal conversion. Just flick a switch, (hit the solenoid with a tech-tap once in a while) and your off running on the other fuel. My pickup has a 600 mile cruising range now. Two gas tanks, and an 80 gallon propane tank. Your power is reduced slightly but your mileage is similar to using gasoline.
Propane conversions are available for most gasoline engines including lawn mowers, boats, automobiles (there are even donut shaped tanks made to fit in the spare tire area), and trucks. Trucks enable a larger tank to be mounted forward in the bed. Mine fits nicely under a short tool box and it is impossible to see unless you look over the bed. It sort of just blends in.
Having said the preceding, it may not be easy to find someone who has the technical savvy to do an installation on your vehicle. Also, they tend to be fly by night guys who recycle many parts over and over again and do it as a sideline. (I'm not saying there aren't professionals out there, just a heads up). I would call the conversion about a 6 out of 10 if you like automobile work. About two days of dedicated "spare time" will do most conversions. Just make sure you don't route the propane hose next to an exhaust line or you might be driving a flare down the road and make the papers. So much for staying off the radar.
A good neighbor asked me if I was afraid when he saw that I was a "survivalist". I said "no, I am prepared". (My nearest neighbor is 4 miles away). Now he is also working on contingency planning with fall back plans to me if he fails. The guy shoots running coyotes at 300 yards, that skill might come in handy if coyotes become a problem. Signed, - Frank B. (15 miles from the nearest asphalt road)
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Letter Re: Portable Oxygen Condensers
James,
I recently installed an AuraGen
system similar
to the current listing on eBay (#330329068735) onto a customer's Bug Out Vehicle
(BOV), a 1986 Chevrolet Suburban 1 ton (modified
with some parts that were originally incorporated in the M1008 CUCV).
This customer also is afflicted with COPD and
uses a 110 VAC Oxygen generator. The Auragen, being a military designed
system is far more durable, far more
rugged,
and most importantly, far more versatile than an inverter placed into any vehicle
electrical system. Being a mil-spec unit,.EMP is
also not an issue as it meets the military requirements for such use in medical
units for power generation.
At around $1,700 on eBay the end user can add about another
$500-to-$600 for install and miscellaneous parts. I personally have a PTO drive
system in my own
vehicle and have used it in several situations where, as some say "The
Schumer has
hit the rotating impellers", LOL,
powering some mission critical communications, networking, and telecom facilities
for other NGO customers. These are not cheap, but what price is reliable power when lives depend on it? Best Regards,
- Bob S.
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Two Letters Re: Protection from EMP Effects for Photovoltaic Panels and Communication Gear
Jim,
I'm not very certain Solar Panels or photovoltaic (PV)
Modules if you prefer) are up to surviving electromagnetic pulse (EMP).
Solar Panel manufacture is akin
to
basically
creating large scale photosensitive semiconductors and few manufacturers will
quote
even static electricity resistance,
much less EMP resistance. Additionally, most PV modules have bypass diodes
to protect cells. Some designs put these diodes in the junction boxes, while
others incorporate them more integrally
in the PV assembly.
Obviously the controllers are at great risk, but the modules themselves are
not free from risk.
About the only references to PV and EMP you can find are discussions concerning
space deployed PV Modules being at risk to solar flares, which have many characteristics
of an EMP event.
I just made some queries with contacts at University of Manchester and Michigan
Tech. They told me that there that almost no EMP test results have been released
to public domain, but
that their Aerospace departments feel that PV Arrays are vulnerable at
the junction level as well as the wiring diode matrix and controller levels.
The [PV-powered] satellite literature repeats the observation that even a minor
solar flare can wipe years to decades off of the life of a PV array and a full
coronal
mass ejection (CME)
will take the array out. Though an EMP [cascade waveform] is not exactly the
same radiation, the corollary is there.
Several of the Disaster Shelter Builders state that PV Panels are at risk in
EMP and include shielded storage for "after the event panels." I
wonder whether
that is marketing hype or good science? For now, this is the best that I can
find. - Steve W.
Mr. Rawles,
There is a very detailed 4-part article about EMP protection for Amateur Radio
equipment. It's a study that was done by the ARRL in
the mid 1980s. Product model numbers and such have changed, but the basic
concepts haven't. If you want to just skip to the recommendations, go to "Part
4 of "Electromagnetic
Pulse and the Radio Amateur".
In a nutshell,
they make the following recommendations:
1. Your equipment will not survive a direct lightning hit no matter how well
protected. EMP or near-misses can be protected against.
2. Install a high-quality surge protector on all AC power cords. You'll need
to shop around to find one with the highest possible rating.
3. Install coax surge protectors (available from most ham radio suppliers)
within 6 feet of the radio equipment to be protected.
4. Install a grounding antenna switch and keep the antennas grounded when not
in use. (Note: antenna switches are often used when folks have multiple radios/antennas,
such as a CB and ham radio or a 2 Meter VHF radio and a scanner. Make grounding
the antennas part of your checklist when shutting down the station after use.
5. Get a piece of Copper plate or thick sheet metal, install it on the wall
or workbench your equipment is on, and attach all equipment grounds and protection
devices to this. Install a good Earth ground, per their guide. This basically
consists of 2 or more standard electrical grounding rods connected with #6
solid Copper wire that is buried. I've found that the
electrical panel bonding lugs sold in [building] contractor stores work great
for this.
Finally, the book Nuclear
War Survival Skills by Cresson H. Kearney [Available for free download]
states that equipment such as hand held radios with short antennas (less than
14")
should be okay against EMP. Grid connected electronics would be more vulnerable,
and stuff with long antennas worse still.
Here are some quick links to EMP protection devices:
Solar Panel charge controller
protection.
Coax lightning protection (manufacturer)
Cheers, - JN-EMT
« Letter Re: Questions on EMP Protection |Main| Learning to Cook on a Wood-Fired Stove by Deborah »
Wood, the Alternative Energy for the Rest of Us, by Bill S.
Solar and wind electric generation systems are affordable and efficient, but
there are a many areas of the U.S. where wind systems are not feasible, and
few localized areas where solar systems are not feasible. A diesel
powered generator with a large underground tank is reliable, but under
adverse
conditions the tank could run dry. Fortunately there are two systems capable
of generating electric power with wood, a fuel readily available in most parts
of the country.
Gasification is a process of burning wood or other solid biomass in a specialized
combustion vessel (basically an upside-down wood stove) that generates hydrogen
and carbon monoxide (CO) gases as by-products of the high temperature combustion.
The exhaust gases can then be used to fuel an internal combustion engine. Gasifiers
were used across Europe during WWII to power tractors, trucks and buses when
gasoline was not available. The return of gasoline after the war caused gasification
to drop off the radar. A group of American pioneers have revived the technology
and made great strides in bringing this lost technology back to the market.
All
Power Labs in
California sells do-it-yourself kits and complete gasifier systems, known as
gasifier
experimenter's kits (GEKs). GEKs have been used to power cars and generators,
it is potentially a complete solution. GEKs are operating around the world.
GEKs
is an open source project, that is, the plans are free and users are encouraged
to experiment and share their knowledge. The design and operation of the gasifier
requires wood blocks/chips, pellets or similar sized fuel. Split firewood is
not an option when operating on a small scale.
The other option is small scale steam. Steam engines powered the industrial
revolution and were in use well after the advent of petroleum products and
the electrical grid. Mike
Brown in Missouri manufactures a range of small scale
steam engines, from 1-to-20 horsepower.
Operating a steam engine requires specialized knowledge and skills, steam is
dangerous in inexperienced hands. Mike Brown has a package of instructional
materials for sale and will insist you do your homework before purchasing of
one of his engines.
Steam engines require a boiler to generate the steam to drive the engine.
Boilers can be made from copper tubing and junkyard scrap for a few hundred
dollars
providing there is a metal worker in the neighborhood; plans and a how-to video
are available from Mike Brown. ASME-certified boilers are available in limited
quantities.
Both systems will generate electricity when gasoline, diesel and propane fuels
are unavailable, the sun isn't shining and the wind isn't blowing . These systems
are best suited for short term backup power or as a supplement to a solar/wind
system. Neither system is “off the shelf” ready, they both require
back yard engineering skills and American ingenuity Both systems require a
stock of wood or other solid fuel to operate for any extended time. They both
require tending and maintenance. Relying on steam or gasification for a year-round
supply of electricity for a retreat is unrealistic in most cases . Note however
that life in the future may become very unrealistic.
But will these systems power a retreat? If you had a 3 hp steam system the
answer is yes. I did some rough calculations; in which I could be off by ±25%.
I am assuming a battery bank for storage. A 3 hp system steaming for 6 hours
per day for a month would generate approximately 400 KW. For comparison, 400
KW is less than one half of what the average American household uses in a month,
but far
more
than
most solar or wind systems will generate. We get by on less than 400 KW per
month and the retreat is all electric, including hot water, range and refrigerator
and I run many power tools in the shop. 400 KW is a huge amount of electricity
in terms of the creature comforts it can provide. Under emergency conditions
100 KW/month would drive a well pump, laptop, lights, radios and cell phone
chargers.[JWR Adds: Don't forget that when drawing DC power
from a battery bank, that inversion to AC with a modern inverter is about 80%
efficient in typical use, and they can be about 90% efficiency under optimal
conditions. To
understand
the concepts of kilowatts and kilowatt hours (KWh), see
Wikipedia.)
If oak were used for fuel it would take 13 cords of firewood per year (that
is a lot of wood). At $225 per cord it would cost approximately $3,000
per year plus many hours of manual labor. This is not what the modern American
considers
convenience, but under lock-down conditions you may be the only one within
100 miles that is powered up after a week. Under emergency conditions you will
be at home with enough time on your hands to stoke the fire every hour. I have
not done a similar analysis of the gasifier. A gasifier is a very efficient
use of biomass, I would expect you can achieve much the same results as a steam
system. GEK users will be happy to share what they know.
Gasifier
Pros: Technically within the range of the do-it-yourselfer. Will power many
internal combustion engines. Will burn chipped/blocked wood and forest scrap,
walnut shells and more. Waste heat from the gasifier and IC engine can be used
to heat water (which can be used to heat a home). The exhaust gas from the
IC engine is water vapor and there is no smoke, the smoke has been converted
to a combustible gas.
Cons: Requires small, consistent-sized fuel such as dry wood chips. Generates
carbon monoxide (CO), a deadly gas although this gas can be used to fuel an
outdoor stove. Cannot be installed within a living space (same with steam).
Limited
supply,
however
plans are free and a gasifier can be built with scrap steel and junkyard parts
by any welder/metal worker.
Cost: Approximately $1,000-3,000 (not including engine, generator or storage
batteries).
Steam Engine
Pros: The most reliable and simple of backup systems. Quiet. Steam can be used
for multiple purposes including space and water heating and making bio-fuels,
including alcohol. Can be powered with both solid and liquid fuels.
Cons: Requires a good bit of self-study. Potentially hazardous. Limited source
of supply for engines and boilers although both should last a lifetime and
be worth their weight in silver should it come to that.
Cost: Approximately $7,000 for 3 hp engine and boiler (not including generator
or storage batteries), the greater part of the cost for a manufactured boiler.
Steam engines are precision machines available in limited quantities. Cost
aside, it could be months before you take delivery, but remember patience is
a virtue. If time and money is of the essence then the GEK is the best bet;
a team of garage mechanics could have a GEK up and running in a week. GEKs
can be manufactured from plans without royalties, potentially a great business
opportunity.
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Letter Re: Questions on EMP Protection
Hello Jim,
I recently finished reading [the recently-released novel] One
Second After [by William R. Forstchen].The potential realities of
this story can grab you. [In the novel] a young girl who dies because her insulin
supply deteriorated. Lack of adequate refrigeration degraded the quality and
effectiveness of the insulin.
I was reviewing some bug out literature and ran across a list of equipment
that included a portable 12 VDC cooler
unit. This would be great for transporting heat sensitive pharmaceuticals during
a move of some distance.
My question is this: What effect would an electromagnetic pulse (EMP) attack
have on this kind of machine? Does it contain modern circuitry that would be
susceptible
to the
EMP effect?
The second question:
Are solar panels susceptible to EMP effect?
I am referring to just the panels and not associated secondary storage, control
and electrical connections.
The third question:
The chargers that come with solar panels, spotlights, hand held radios, scanners
and the like seem to be simple transformers.
But do they contain any circuitry that an EMP wave would destroy?
I read your site every day. Cordially, - JWC in Oklahoma
JWR Replies: In answer to your questions:
Even if your refrigerator has some microcircuits, it is probably not at
risk to an EMP waveform, especially if it is running from a
stand-alone
12
VDC power
system. (Generally, devices that are connected to grid power are at greater
risk of EMP coupling.) But just to be safe, when your compact refrigerator
is not in use, you should store it in a galvanized steel garbage can (with
a tight-fitting
lid),
to act as a protective Faraday cage.
Solar panels themselves are not at risk, but charge controllers and
possibly inverters are, because they use microcircuits. Since protection via
zener diodes
is
not always reliable, the most practical solution is to buy a couple of spare
charge controllers, and store them in ammo
cans.
« Mexican Flu Update: |Main| The Information Junkie, by Dan H. »
Letter Re: Sale on Inexpensive Solar Rechargeable Lights
Dear Mr. Rawles,
This sale ends Saturday so maybe it's too late to share it, but True
Value Hardware stores around the country are selling boxes of six (6) solar powered pathway
lights for $11.99.
These would be great to use for an extended power outages - just bring them
in inside each night without the pole. There's two LED lights in each one,
and they will shine for 8 hours. I tried them out last night and was able to read
with
two of them. Using all six lights in the box lit up my small house enough to where I wouldn't need a
flashlight or lantern to get myself safely around.
I just thought I'd share since the price was so low. Wouldn't this be great
for those living in apartments? - Rod McG. in Virginia
« Letter Re: The Tightwad Gazette Books |Main| Snippets From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Communications and Monitoring Advice »
Letter: Re: Long Term Health Care Needs in TEOTWAWKI
Good Morning,
You may have addressed this previously, but I could use your
help on this issue. Our six year old daughter has significant medical needs
(none requiring
electricity thankfully) requiring us to shelter in place. We live outside a major
metro area and probably wouldn’t want to be on the roads anyway. Any comments
for those of us who fit this bill? Thanks - Jeremy
JWR Replies: Yes, this has been addressed. See this
letter in the archives, from 2007.
OBTW, be sure to follow the back-links there for the previous SurvivalBlog article
on
mid-size photovoltaic systems for medical needs such as sleep apnea CPAP machines
and small refrigerators
for insulin storage.
« Two Letters Re: My Experiment with a Field Gear Invention |Main| Letter Re: Adapting Family Food Storage for Gluten Intolerance »
Letter Re: Home and Ranch Methane Gas Generators
Jim:
I saw the following post concerning Gober ("dung") gas, dated 27 April, 2009,
over at Michael
Yon's web site:.
"During breaks from tracking training – I was sweating like crazy
in the jungle heat – I asked many questions about Afghanistan and Nepal,
and he talked about a simple way to make many of the Afghans lives easier. Most
Afghans don’t even have electricity. When he was about fifteen years-old,
his dad installed a “Gobar Gas” (methane) generator next to the
house in Nepal. The generator is simple: the owner just collects human and
animal waste, and through a fantastically simple process, the contraption creates
methane, which is then used for lighting, cooking, heating in the winter. It
also creates excellent fertilizer, all while improving sanitation. What’s
the catch? None that I’ve heard of. He said that his dad made the first
Gobar Gas system in his village, and today it would costs maybe $300 total
investment. Between their own toilet and four cows, they create enough methane
to cook, heat and light the house. More than two decades after his dad made
it, the thing is still working and doesn’t cost a single rupee to operate.
When the other villagers saw it work, hundreds of Gobar Gas systems popped
up around the village. I’ve seen these systems in use in Nepal, and photographed
one about five years ago. It worked like a charm. But this Nepalese man, a
British soldier, never saw a Gobar Gas system in Afghanistan, but he is certain
that the idea would take hold in the villages. My guess is that the only real
disadvantage is that the idea is incredibly effective, simple and cheap, and
so we probably wouldn’t want to get involved."
Wikipedia has an entry on Gober
Gas.
Regards, - Larry
JWR Replies: The usual safety (for piped explosive gasses)
rules apply, and of course the usual sanitation rules must be enforced, but
this looks like
a great set-up for anyone that keeps livestock. Aunty
Entity would be proud.
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Letter Re: Bike Frame-Mounted DC Power Generators
James,
Just a follow-up to the question about bicycle power: If you do a Google
search on the phrase "bicycle power generator" then several interesting
options come
up.
One
is a web site that
offers
free plans.
JWR Replies: Just keep in mind that every hour spent trudging
away on a bike frame generator is an hour that you could also use doing something
else productive. Dollar for dollar and hour for hour, photovoltaic panels are
the way to go--they make power every day with minimal maintenance. I consider
bike-frame
mounted
generators fairly specialized devices for peculiar circumstances, such as when
someone is cooped up in a fallout shelter. My general advice is: Yes, go ahead
and build one, but make it readily adaptable to multiple purposes, by using
perforated box beam construction for the back half. This is similar to the
construction method often used for hobby-built electric go-carts and similar
projects. With perforated steel box beams, you will minimize the amount of
welding needed to fairly quickly reconfigure the back half. For example, you
could attach various pulleys and V-belts that can in turn be attached to a Country
Living grain mill, a meat grinder, or a metal grinding/sharpening
wheel.
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Letter Re: Atheism and Choosing Your Neighborhood »
Letter Re: Learning the Details of Self-Sufficiency
Jim,
I'd like to add an additional perspective on the letter on "Learning the Details
of Self-Sufficiency" -- the conscious
competence learning model. I'd like to pull back the shade a bit on why 'just
buying stuff' and reading books isn't going to cut it when the balloon goes
up.
Many folks are 'buying things', reading books, searching the internet with
the thought that when the time comes, they will begin living the self-sufficient
lifestyle in the country. The aforementioned letter points out the folly of
this approach. I just want to take a step back and look at why so many people
are taking an unproductive approach -- it has to do with how people assimilate
new skills.
With a new skill set (like self-sufficient living in this example) a person
at first is unconsciously incompetent (stage #1). Here a person doesn't even
know what they don't know. They certainly don't understand the ramifications
of not having mastery of the things they don't know. Most people stop right
here. They feel safe. In fact, it's not until they go a bit further into consciously
incompetent (stage #2) when they begin for the first time to understand some
of the things at which they are incompetent; and begin to realize the impact
of their incompetence on their desired outcome.
Stage 2 lasts a long time because the more a person learns, the more necessary
skills they uncover, which skills they have no experience whatsoever. It's
not until you actually eat the beans you've canned, which were stored in the
root cellar you made; which beans grew in your garden, which garden you protected
from insects, which plot you cleared from the forest, fenced from the deer,
amended the soil, selected the correct variety of bean seed, planted at the
correct depth,with the correct spacing, at the right time of year, with the
proper sun exposure, etc. Then and only then will you have begun to
have some gardening experience -- for beans. Then you can begin to appreciate
that beans
are not carrots. Carrots have different needs, and hey, wow, I wonder if all
these different vegetables, grains and fruits have different requirements?
Gee, what would happen if I grew my garden in 'compost' I bought from a local
garden center and the entire crop failed, and I couldn't buy my veggies from
Wal-Mart? Last example was a true story for me as a local nursery sold me 10
yards of 'compost' which [later] tested almost zero for N, P, & K. My crops
bolted and died within three weeks.
Stage 3 is conscious competence. This is when you can perform a skill reliably
at will. I can put up more beans this year, I know how to do it; I know how
many rows of what dimension and how much seed I need. I want to put up some
dilly beans, I know how to do that too. I can cook using the blanched and frozen
beans I grew last year.
Stage 4 is unconscious competence. This is where you aren't even aware of the
skills you are using to produce the desired result. People who reach this level
of expertise often can't teach another person how to do what they are doing
because so much ability (not knowledge -- big difference) is assumed. Have
you ever seen a craftsman produce a beautiful result, and make it look easy?
Then you
tried and found, "Hey, this is harder than it looks!" That's what
stage 4 is, and where you need to be before you risk your family's life on
homesteading in the midst of a crisis.
We've only talked about beans so far; how about production quantity gardening
for the 20 or so veggies, fruits, and grains you're going to need? How about
producing pork? Chicken? Rabbit? Lamb? Can you breed, select, grow, cull, harvest,
process, store, and prepare all of these? How about dairy operations? Retreat
security? Redundant water systems in place? Redundant power systems in place
and functioning? Productive relationships with neighbors? Suppliers? I'd like
to give you a more complete list, but I've been doing this for years now, so
I don't even know all I know!
If you aren't doing these things right now, then you won't be any good at them
in a time of need. The only way to gain new skills is by doing.
Take advantage of whatever time we have left before things get much worse,
and go do it! -
Mr. Kilo
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Six Letters Re: Bicycles as Bug-Out and Utility Vehicles »
Two Letters Re: Pedal Power for Electricity Generation and Water Pumping
James:
As for using a bicycle as a PTO device,
imagine being asked to pedal uphill for hours on end, going nowhere, summer
or winter, until the power comes
back, this is the slavery of powering off of your bicycle, it works to provide
some feeble current, but there are much better ways to spend your man hours
and food calories. Notable exceptions are using a small wheel generator for
bike lights or small battery charging like mobile phones as you travel, BTW
you will need to add a rectifier and voltage regulator circuit since bike
generators produce AC power, an inexpensive friction generator will wear
on your tire, but hubs dynamos are expensive around $50 plus requiring a
wheel rebuild. You could power an old belt drive Singer sewing machine, or
flywheel for light machine shop tools, since these do not require such exertion,
there are plans available for using a broken bicycle to put the pedal drive
under your work table. If you want electrical power, then go with solar,
wind, or a water wheel. Don't be an energy slave. To move water make a water
tower,
cistern,
or pond on a hilltop and pump using wind power, since
it will be gravity fed you have available water in the storage and the pump
will run every time there is wind refilling the storage. Other options are
using a water wheel pump, or the very reliable inertial pump.
All the best to you and the family - David in Israel
Jim:
Back Home magazine published an
article on a bicycle powered water pump in their March/April 2009 issue
(#99). The issue is available online for $3.75. - Matt
« Letter Re: The Mexican Drug Wars Come to the United States |Main| Letter Re: Bicycles as Bug-Out and Utility Vehicles »
Letter Re: Pedal Power for Electricity Generation and Water Pumping
Hi Mr. Rawles:
Thank you so much for your efforts on this blog as well as Rawles Gets You
Ready. I have a question that I haven’t seen addressed. Are there products
out there based on pedal power? Meaning, I can’t afford a real alternative
energy system or a large storage area for gasoline. What I’d like is
a way to keep a few deep cycle batteries charged to power my rechargeable AA-size
batteries (do they make rechargeable batteries in any other size?), my cordless
power tools and other objects. There must be alternator/bicycle systems to
do that but I can’t find any. Also, I’d like to power a water pump
by bicycle so that I can draw water from my well or the creek a couple of hundred
yards away. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, - Joe F.
JWR Replies: Yes, there are several proven products. See the
SurvivalBlog archives. For battery charging, it is probably best to use
a fairly large generator to charge a pair of 6 volt DC deep cycle batteries.
Then, you can use that battery bank as a 12 volt power source for an
automobile-type charger for AA Batteries
. As I've mentioned in the blog before, I recommend standardizing with 30
amp
Anderson Power Pole Connectors
for all of the small (low current) 12 volt DC devices at your retreat and in
your vehicles. These genderless connectors are vastly superior to cigarette
lighter-type plugs and jacks.
« Letter Re: Recommendation for Kinder Goats |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: The Importance of Spare Parts and Maintenance for Preparedness
James Wesley:
One subject that I think is under rated in preparedness discussions
is spare parts. We all are focused on our armaments and basic survival materials
to
the detriment of being able to continue to use our tools and equipment when
they inevitably break. Even in the best-case scenario of a sever depression
spare parts will be often unavailable through normal channels. A good example
of this is to be found in cars. When I was young in the ‘50s and early ‘60s
there was an abundance of cars made in the late ‘20s and ‘30s in
remarkably good shape that were shoved into barns because of breakdowns, often
minor, for which parts were not available during the depression. These cars
were hauled out by enterprising young men returning from WWII and Korea and
turned into hot rods or just driven into the ground when parts again became
available in the ‘50s. As our economic system becomes ever more complex
and specialized, and as that built in disaster of “just in time” production
and distribution is used more and more, the inevitability of interruptions
in materials and basic goods becomes even more probable. Having spent a lifetime
living on farms, and particularly here in the western Upper Peninsula ("U.P.")
of Michigan where the nearest farm supply stores are down in Wisconsin a day's
drive away,
I have developed an acute appreciation of the necessity of having a good inventory
of parts on hand. So combine a disruption in supply with a remote refuge location
and the problem could become insurmountable and be very inconvenient if not
life threatening. So think in terms of two different plans: parts and
maintenance.
Spare Parts
In the parts department do you have spare wicks and globes for your oil
lamps? And lots and lots of mantles for gas lights which I do not recommend
for the reason that they are so fragile that bugs break them. Do you have extra
leathers for your water pumps? And handles for your axes, splitting mauls,
hammers and saws? These have a way of getting broke when used with regularity;
particularly when you are tired or exhausted which we will be if we are in
this situation. I heat with wood and do not own a wood splitter. I do it by
hand and have never broken a maul handle except at the end of the day when
I am tired and miss the block of wood with the head and hit it with the handle.
So count on breaking things when you are tired or in a hurry. Do you have extra
chains for your chain saw and blades for your bow saw. A good bow saw [or bucksaw]
is definitely a tool to have if gasoline is scarce or unavailable, or if you
want to cut wood without attracting attention. And do you have the files and
sharpening stones to keep them sharp by hand and the teeth properly set? You
might also want to practice these skills because they are skills. And boot
laces, gloves, wool socks and other warm and durable clothing that you do not
often use and replace but that will become something that you will use every
day under adverse conditions. Anyway you get the point. Stock up on daily used
items. For instance, last week the local hardware store had leather palmed
work gloves on sale at two pairs for a buck so I bought 50 pairs. I’ll
use them eventually even if nothing goes wrong, and if it does I’m covered
and I’ll have some great bartering material. Buy what you know you will
need and may be able to trade to those less provident.
Maintenance|
Maintenance is always a neglected area of planning. Most people
are poor at maintenance as a matter of course and some cannot even seem to
consider
it. Look at your home, equipment and tools and determine what you need to do
to keep it working, particularly under adverse conditions. Do you have the
tools, manuals and knowledge to fix things. Is your shop supplied with lubricants
and grease to keep the place running. My granddad liked to say “grease
and oil are cheap and parts and labor are expensive”, During the 1980s
I was a Trustee for the United States Bankruptcy Court and I handled most of
the farm cases here in the U.P. because I knew the business and could milk
cows. One of the things that struck me most was the almost universal lack
of grease guns on these bankrupt farms. It changed my feelings about my fellow
farmers plight to a great degree in many cases. A lack of daily maintenance
is a precondition to disaster. I own a lot of old equipment that gets used
hard, but it is well maintained and seldom breaks down because of grease, oil
and general maintenance. And maintenance of the area around you is also important.
Recently a most excellent article was posted in SurvivalBlog dealing with
keeping
the place neat and clean. It is well worth re-reading and considering.
A neat
environment helps keep you safe from injury and has an important psychological
component. Which leads to another point about neatness. Keep your stored goods
organized so you can find them. Plastic bins and totes with labels make things
easy to find and protects them from vermin, dirt and corrosion and makes taking
inventory a snap.
So get the spare parts you will need, and some to trade, and get them organized.
And maintain your home, tools, equipment, mind, body, marriage and family and
we will get through this time to come. And if we are wrong about the future we
will still be the better for it. - Ken S.
« Letter Re: Some Practical Lessons From Daily Concealed Carry |Main| Note from JWR: »
Is it Enough?, by Axman
I remember the Great Gas Crises of the 1950s. I filled several metal five-gallon
cans with gas and put them behind the seat of my 1941 Plymouth 6-cylinder Business
Coupe. I got 21 miles per gallon with that peppy little car!
When Kennedy’s
Cuban Missile Crises came about I dug a foxhole in my Mother’s
back yard -- which she later filled in and used as a flower bed.
Then the Cold
War with Russia, where we rattled ballistic missiles at each other. I actually
built an above-ground fallout shelter out of a retired metal
dumpster
and a piece of conduit big enough to crawl through. A hill of dirt left over
from a construction job finished it. My shelter looked like an earthen igloo,
built in the high desert above Phoenix, Arizona . It lasted about 7 years,
until the new owner of the property took it down.
One day at a gun store I met a man
who was high up in our regional electric company. I asked him what would happen
if the Russians nuked Phoenix. He replied
that
if we were lucky, our electricity would be out for a few weeks to a few months!
If
they scored a direct hit, then it could be years before the power could be
restored!
Convinced, I went right home and started assembling my own small solar
electric system! Several years later the Berlin Wall was taken down. But
I kept my 'Small
Electric Company' operational. I still use it every evening! In addition
I picked up a pitiful little generator some guy had taken out of his motor
home.
Eventually
Y2K came
on the scene. I sold my little noise maker
and replaced it with a new Coleman 3,000 watt, no frills, short run generator.
It is just big enough to run the wife’s washing machine and any of my
shop’s
tools one at a time. This machine was a great comfort as the year 2000 came
closer. I figured on running it just 2 to 3 hours per week during the crisis.
That way, I would
not have to store large amounts of expensive, flammable gasoline. I still maintain
this generator in good working order by using it to power my electric chainsaw
2 or 3 times each year as I cut wood for our stove.
During the pre-Y2K months
an old Baptist turned-Mormon school chum convinced me
to
start a food storage program. So I went out and bought 3 or 4 cases of Ramen
noodles. In time I learned to hate Ramen noodles! My thrifty wife insisted
on recycling or rotating them through my digestive tract! I think I have finally
got her convinced to save the last case for our neighbors who fail to prepare
for the big one! I now buy canned pinto beans, pork and beans, canned corn,
green peas, green beans, potted meat, Vienna sausages, stuff I like or can
at least
tolerate! I figure on keeping 6 weeks to 3 months supply of food and water
on hand and rotating it every 3 years, keeping it no longer then 5 years.
This is an ongoing thing and saves us a few dollars as the price of food continues
to rise. Uncle Sugar just keeps printing money and devaluating our Dollars,
thus higher prices!
Now along comes the Mega Depression of 2009, [minor rant snipped] so this
then is my biggest challenge, just to survive this coming period of economic
disaster,
political turmoil, and civil unrest.
I am in the process
of improving
the latches on my exterior doors and outfitting a designated bug out vehicle
capable of sustaining our lives for 30 days. I am teaching my wife to use a
battle rifle and
improving my rain water barrels. I instructed my financial advisor to prepare
my investments for the worst, plus taking some independent action of my own
in
the way of trade goods, reconstruction skills and a small investment in precious
metals. I have talked up the need to prepare with friends, loved ones, and
neighbors. Is it enough? Only time will tell.
« Letter Re: Barnyard Junk: The Things that You Do and Don't Need for TEOTWAWKI |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: A Carrington Event Space Storm--A Natural EMP Equivalent
Jim-
New Scientist magazine article recently published an important article
titled "Space
storm alert: 90 seconds from catastrophe." The article outlines
possible scenarios for the risk of solar storms that could severely damage
national grids and vital electrical and electronic systems. The effects would
be catastrophic and devolve societies into a desperate survival situation for
individuals.
One quote from the article:
"Over the last few decades, western civilisations have busily sown the
seeds of their own destruction. Our modern way of life, with its reliance on
technology,
has unwittingly exposed us to an extraordinary danger: plasma balls spewed
from the surface of the sun could wipe out our power grids, with catastrophic
consequences."
Could off-grid standby equipment such as power generators or solar cells also
be damaged? See the
National Academy of Sciences report. (After registering,
you can download a free PDF file of the report): Best Regards, - Gregg T
JWR Replies: I've received more than 20 letters in the past
48 hours from readers concerned about this article. In my opinion, this natural
"EMP-like"
effect is just another reason to get prepared. The probability in any given
lifetime is quite low, but the impact if it were to happen would be
devastating.
Most home non-grid-tied photovoltaic,
micro-hydro, and wind power systems will probably be safe from a Carrington
Event. (The field strength and coupling effects will be roughly analogous
to that of nuclear
EMP.)
If you have a microprocessor-controlled battery charge controller, then one
fairly
inexpensive
measure is to buy
a spare. But for most of us, buying a spare large inverter is
cost-prohibitive. In the event that your large (whole-house) inverter get
fried, then perhaps your could plan to revert to DC-only
system, and store a couple of spare small inverters for crucial
AC loads.
As with any
other "EMP redundant" radios and other electronics, you should store
your
spares
in ammo
cans, all-metal
cookie
tins,
or similarFaraday
cage structures.
« Three Letters Re: Some Thoughts on the Survival Vehicle |Main| Note from JWR: »
The 19th Century Home Retrofit, by Y. Cornelius
By now most SurvivalBlog readers have gone about your preparations for your
ideal home or retreat cabin, all storage food and tools acquired, fuel stored,
generators
ready, PV panels carefully concealed and hooked up to the battery bank. You
and your family or group are ready to handle the coming collapse, but are
you really? Are you ready to do without? Without that generator when
the fuel runs out, or a critical piece is worn out and a new one cannot be
had? At some point
your supplies will be used up, storage fuel consumed and there may not be any
to refill your tanks or more realistically you may be priced out, or it will
be too dangerous to “run-the-gauntlet” and get more. Can you manage
in your place without electricity? Can you cook with wood? Do you have space
enough to process the abundant food you grow and must preserve either by canning
or other means? Can you move throughout your buildings without being seen from
the outside?
My point, is your place set up to function as a 19th century homestead?
My wife and I bought an old New England farmhouse many years ago, it is nothing
fancy and looks like so many others in our area, it is a traditional connected
farmhouse meaning that the buildings are all linked-up, yet they have different
roof lines and are of different sizes. It is best summed up as a “Big
House,
Little House, Back House, Barn” and this is the title of a wonderful book
written by Thomas C. Hubka which details the reasons for the ways structures
developed. (If you want a leisurely read on the history of these buildings, I
highly recommend this book.) Anyway, we bought this type of farm house and have
been in the process of renovating it over many years, although the renovation
could more reasonably described as going back to the future. One of the many
wonderful things about an old house, and when I say old I mean over 150 years
old, is the ability to reuse much of the lumber in the walls, floors, and ceilings
or the masonry whether it is brick or stone, Ours is a timber frame with some
masonry on the exterior and is incredibly well built and has a brilliant house
plan. I realize that many people are not up to the task of going through this
sort of process, but you could build your current retreat or home to some of
these specs. Our home for example was built just after the War of 1812 it was
fully functional for a family of eight with room for boarders/labors and or relatives.
The kitchen is large while many of the adjacent rooms are small (less space to
heat) all the rooms are situated around two large central fireplaces and have
thimbles to allow for a small wood stove in each, the rooms can be closed off
when not in use, thus not taking valuable heat from other areas. In the basement
there is a large hole in the floor; it was a cistern, but was allowed to fill
in with junk, perhaps it was considered a “sump hole” by later inhabitants
since there was evidence of long overworked pumps in under the silt and gravel.
I have cleaned this up and now have a source of water right in the house, (this
water will still need to be treated since it is technically surface water being
only ten feet below grade), but it still offers water for cleaning or for our
animals.
There is a large “root” cellar to store food stuffs and
canned goods. (It could double as safe room or vault if needed and may well have
been at one point since the opening is nondescript and hidden from plain sight).
Also there is a summer kitchen, at first I wondered why this was necessary, it
appeared to be redundant, but further study enlightened me to the fact that this
area was a vital part the home complex. First it served to allow a large un-insulated
cook area that was necessary during the harvest time to allow heat to escape
from the constant fire in the cook stove during the canning, it was also a place
that field labors had their meals prepared and ate without having to clean themselves
up much and not dirty up the regular kitchen. The buildings between the summer
kitchen and barn (sometimes it is one long building divided only internally or
there are up to three distinct roof lines and end walls that divide them) any
how these areas were used in a variety of ways to allow a small cottage industry
to occur, in-fact these were simply work areas that were sheltered from the often
harsh and wild weather we experience. One could be for wood storage, for tools
(a sort of machine shop), or areas for processing wool from sheep. The point
is not to recreate that lifestyle but to utilize that mindset and build similar
multi-purpose structures.
Our Home:
We have “renovated” our home to fully function without electricity.
Now, we have multiple generators, a significant storage of fuels and food. I
and am currently finishing up with the PV panels and battery bank/inverter set-up,
going through all the motions to secure some sense of normalcy; but in-fact we
do
not “need” those items to exist here, they are an extra. We can heat
with wood and with a solar hot water system connected to baseboard radiators
as well as a copper coil running through the wood fired furnace [for when there
is not solar gain or during a heavy snowfall]. (The hot water moves via thermo-siphon
no electricity needed only check-valves to keep the hot water moving in one direction).
Our kitchen is “modern” but if the power is out we can cook on our
wood fired cook-stove, it is about 120 years old and with a little “TLC” is
now fully functional not to mention beautiful to look at. We can also bake in
a bee hive oven built into the massive central chimney which I rebuilt and lined
with modern flues. I left one of the original fireplaces, installed airtight
doors and an exterior air vent, while on the other side made the other fireplace
into a large wood storage container.
Overall, your retreat needs to be functional without electricity, things will
eventually break, or you simply run out. Focus upon knowing how to live your
life with little to no electricity or “conveniences”. The primary
goals must be on heating your home and preparing food without petrochemical
fuels, most modern homes are particularly horrible in this area. Change your
mindset; you cannot store enough for the really long haul.
« Letter Re: Private Gated Communities May Not be Gated After All |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Life's Lessons and the Foundations of Preparedness, by A.B.
We may soon depend on all of what we have learned over the years. Putting
all of the threads of knowledge together into a tapestry of self-sufficiency,
and survival capabilities, is part of the lifelong quest for our family’s
security. We learn from many sources and experiences such as: family, church,
friends, teachers, teammates, co-workers, reading books and SurvivalBlog, and
hopefully from our mistakes.
Preparedness Skills from our Grandmas and Grandpas
The foundation for preparedness begins with my childhood in Michigan. We
lived in Lansing where my great-grandmother was next door and my grandmother
lived
next door to her. My father was born in great-grandma’s house after
the family moved to the city during the early 1900s. My sisters and I spent
weekends and summers alternately at my mom’s family dairy farm, which
was just outside of the city, and at my dad’s family cabin “up
north”. These were the richest times of my life. We knew all of our
grandparents and some of our great-grandparents very well. My great-great-grandfather
still
lived in the old log cabin when I was born in 1956. We have been fortunate
to have had five generations alive consistently from then until now. The
wealth of love and knowledge you gain from your extended family is irreplaceable.
The “old timers” told stories of hardship during the great depression
and the dust bowl era (we live an area that was the largest prairie east
of the Mississippi.) Memories of crop failures with tales of early and late
frosts
were passed down. There were also hunting and fishing stories passed down
as we learned to hunt and fish with older family members. There were bigger
than
life lumberjack stories and stories from Prohibition and the World Wars.
I learned to safely handle and accurately shoot a .22 rifle with peep sights
when I was six or seven years old. I walked the roads with my grandpa squirrel
hunting. We ice fished on local lakes and went to Tip-Up
Town USA every year.
All
of
this adds to ones persona and the early experience helps awaken the necessary “survivalist” traits.
On a working dairy farm you rapidly learn about life (and death). Animal
husbandry and caring for the land lead to sustainability. Animals do become
food and
harvesting the crops sometimes seems little reward for the hard work. The
milking must be done every day and chores do not wait. As a kid I learned
to drive
tractors and pick-ups to and from the fields. We mowed, bailed and then stacked
the hay in the mow. Alfalfa, oats and corn were the field crops. Pigs, chickens,
and sheep were raised along with the dairy cows and we cleaned the barns
and spread manure.
Knowledge is passed down from generation to generation such as when to plant,
where to plant, when to harvest, and how to raise the animals. There were
many topics of conversations at the Sunday breakfast table. Many things are
debated
and discussed after chores and before Church. Most times the conversations
continued outside the Church after the sermon. It was the only time you saw
the other farmers. When you are a little guy you tended to be quiet, pay
attention and learn.
Grandpa was a farmer and Grandma was a one room school teacher. Grandma also
taught vacation bible school during the summer break. Us kids learned how
to tend good gardens and helped preserve the food we raised. We took care
of the
barn animals while the uncles milked. We hauled water to the bull pen and
helped milk as we got older. Survival skill sets from the farm come from
being part
of a close knit community with a solid work ethic. There are strong religious
underpinnings with good people engaged in caring for one another as well
as the animals and the land.
Preparedness from "Roughing It”
The log cabin “up north” had a well-house for getting water and
an outhouse for getting rid of water. There was a wood fired cook stove for
heat and kerosene lamps to play cards under. There was a red checkered oilcloth
on the table with cane chairs around it. The place was originally homesteaded
by my great-great-grandfather in the late 1800s (a few electric lights
were added at some point.) We used to go up on Friday night after Dad or
Grandpa got out of work. The next morning started with an awakening trip to
the outhouse
and then fetching a bucket of water from the well house and kindling for
the wood stove. On a cold morning you stepped lively until the fire was going.
Once the stove was hot, Grandma would cook buttermilk pancakes on a griddle
that my great-grandmother had used in the lumber camp. Eggs and bacon sizzled
in a cast iron skillet. Clothes were washed on a washboard in a wash tub and
then
hung
out to dry. You took a bath in the river. During the summer we would fish
morning and evening and water ski on the nice days. The family summer vacation
was
spent camping in a tent along the river or at a state park. The old cabin
was also used for small game hunting in the early fall and deer camp in the
late
fall / winter. We would take walks in the woods and look for morels and other
edible things like may apples, hickory nuts or raspberries and huckleberries.
Animal tracks were learned and followed with hopes of a glimpse. Life was
considered sacred unless needed for food and being a part of nature became
obvious. A
leave no trace and waste nothing ethic was being born.
Opportunities for further wilderness and pioneering skill development were
provided by Cub Scouts and Boy Scouts. My mom and dad were actively involved
in Scouting when I was growing up. Teamwork and sharing responsibilities
for the group were learned. Outdoor cooking and keeping things sanitary were
heavily
emphasized. Food poisoning is no joke – we had one patrol that damn near
killed us with their meal. We learned to wash our hands and boil the crap out
of everything. Hiking and backpacking skills were beginning to be developed
in the Scouts. We day hiked a 20 miler once a year on the Johnny Appleseed
Trail - the Scouts version of the death march. You had to carry a full pack
if you wanted the patch. We also hiked the Pokagon Trail in northern Indiana
and learned to camp in the winter.
While living in Pennsylvania (later in life) I started winter backpacking with
a few of my buddies. We went in the winter both for the solitude it offered,
and
to learn the special skill sets required for survival in the cold. There
are beautiful views from Seven Springs and other spots along the Laurel Highlands
Trail during the winter. This experience then led to the development of technical
mountaineering skills. The books Basic Rockcraft, Advanced Rockcraft and
Knots
for Climbers were memorized along with study of the book Mountaineering:
The Freedom of the Hills. Skills were practiced and ingrained.
My first solo backpacking / climbing trip came in the summer of 1980 in the
Organ Mountains of southern New Mexico. I later solo climbed most of the
4,000 and 5,000
footers in New England (many in winter). I met a like minded climber on one
of those hikes and we made a summit bid on Mt. Rainier in June of 1998. I
also began
the solo circumnavigation on the Wonderland Trail that year. I set the first
tracks both that year and when I completed the circuit in June of 2001. Map
and compass skills were required. Primitive camping
while carrying everything you
need to survive for two weeks is a tough proposition. It was tough in my 30s
and 40s. It’s even harder now that I am in my 50s. G.O.O.D. to
the deep woods is doable but it would be a hard life.
Responsibility and Teamwork
We learned to be responsible and self-sufficient during our childhood. We learned
to play without other kids around and had chores to do for our allowance. I
learned to gather the wood and light a fire as soon as I was old enough. You
pumped the
water and filled the reservoir if you wanted warm water for washing up. You
learned to use guns and knives as tools while you learned hunting techniques
and cleaned
the game for the table. Being a responsible hunter meant taking ethical shots
and using what you kill. Catching and cleaning fish, then cooking or smoking
them were all part of being a good fisherman. To go along with these survival
skills you also need the ability to share knowledge and work as a team.
Most of the skills you learn will help you to fend for yourself one way or
another. The only problem is summed up with the statement “no man is an island”.
You will need others sooner or later. My sisters and I developed basic teamwork
skills while setting up camp. The girls helped mom and I helped dad. We had a “system”.
This was carried further in Scouting. Some Patrols set up tents while another
set up the kitchen. These valuable lessons were used later in life as I went
through boot camp and during service in the military. I served on small boats
as part of a search and rescue team in the USCG.
Teamwork helps to overcome the steep learning curve and high risk of being
a self-sufficient survivalist. You can do things as a team exponentially quicker
and safer than you can by yourself. Your bunkmate becomes your partner in boot
camp and later becomes your shipmate. You learn “one hand for yourself
and one hand for the boat”. As a team you can survive what would kill you
alone. In a bad storm someone has to steer while someone bails out the boat.
One person couldn’t do it. Avalanche in the back country is another perfect
example - by yourself you are probably dead. Doing things alone is great - but
it may cost you your life. Skill and knowledge can’t cover your a** like
a buddy. It’s nice to have someone else on the rope with you; they are
your only hope.
Teaching everyone at least something you know and learning from everyone something
you don’t know can only make the group stronger. If someone gets sick
or is tired someone else can step up. CPR is
a good example here. In the back country one person can’t help himself.
One person helping may bring back the life but it better happen quickly. Two
people allow you to send someone for
help while
rendering aid until you are too tired to continue. Three people allow almost
indefinite support. Two can alternate CPR while waiting for the one who left
for help to return with the defibrillator. If help is real far away, then it’s
done. There is a point of no return. Remote locations usually cross that point
which is a distinct disadvantage (unless the SHTF).
Without teamwork you will usually die if something bad happens. Everyone has
to be a good shot. Everyone needs to be able to render first aid. The group
is only as strong as the weakest link and precious resources are spent covering
someone’s a** that’s not up to speed. Teach and learn and cross train.
Remember what you did as a kid and don’t sell the kid’s of today
short. Teach them the skills they need and allow them to grow into the responsibility.
Being part of a team or extended family that functions like a team is fun. The
action of being responsible for one another is at the root of any team.
The
Prepared Family
The family is the primary source of knowledge. Some survival skills to learn
right along with reading, writing and arithmetic are: swimming, knot tying,
fire building under all conditions, where to get water and how to make it safe
to
drink, safe gun handling and accurate shooting, hunting in fields and the woods,
fishing in rivers and on lakes, first aid, camping, boating, gardening, making
things “homemade”. You can’t start learning or teaching these
things too soon.
10 years ago we moved back home to Michigan after living all over the USA.
I had come home for my Grandpa’s funeral and was returning to New England.
Something was wrong and I couldn’t put my finger on it. That’s when
the light came on and as I drove it became apparent that I was going the wrong
way – both figuratively and literally. We were chasing the so called “American
Dream”. Losing my grandfather and returning to the north woods had shown
me where home really is. It is with family and God and where your roots are.
I had drifted away from the true values I had learned early in life.
I resigned my position, cashed out the 401(k), and bought the homestead from
grandma. We planted 24 fruit trees and installed irrigation systems for the
gardens. We
pruned the grape vines back and tended to the asparagus beds. My wife renewed
the old flower beds and I have replaced the split rail fence. We re-roofed
everything. The folks put down another well up the field and had another septic
system installed
for their travel trailer. We had a 100 amp power drop installed and we also
buried a power cable from the field to the trailer for a 12 volt system (small
scale
solar and wind).
I once again could use guns after living in the tyranny of Massachusetts. (I
refused to get an Firearms ID card so my guns never left the house in 16 years.)
I taught a niece
and nephew to shoot with the same .22 that grandpa used to teach me with almost
50 years ago. My nephew, now an 8th grader, got his first deer this past year.
No one believed him when he came home and told them. He did it on his own.
Things have now come full circle in our life. My grandma lives with us in her
old house through the summer. My sisters are both Grandmas themselves now and
they are taking care of our mom and dad. The kids have great-grandparents and
a great-great grandmother. My understanding wife of thirty years and I live
here on the homestead as stewards of the family heritage. The whole family
gets together
up here once or twice a year. We know how to provide for and take care of each
other. If the SHTF my sisters and the rest of the family will head up here
to the homestead and once again adopt the ways of our Great-Great Grandpa and
Grandma.
Everything we have learned through our lives will serve us well. Skill sets
from the north woods and from the farm are derived from living simple, living
manual
and living with nature as part of nature.
We used to fall to sleep on a feather tick mattress while listening to rain
tapping over our heads in the loft of the old log cabin. Bedtime stories were
told as
we drifted to sleep and the whippoorwills sang into the night. We didn’t
think that the day would come that just about all of what we learned from our
family and from our life would come into play. Thank God for our tight family
and all of the distilled knowledge passed down to us. I now live in a home
built over the site of the original log cabin and now we have 7 generations
since my
great-great grandparents first cleared this piece of land. It looks like we
will be talking of another “Great Depression” soon and the complete
cycle renews. Do we learn from our mistakes?
Preparedness Skills and Materials
We’re preparing for the future and I hope to teach what I can to as many
people as I can before it’s over. We can survive well if we draw on one
another’s strengths and knowledge. It starts with the family and moves
out to the extended family then to the neighbors and on to town folk and into
the blogosphere. Many people have grown up in similar circumstances and have
similar experiences. We must practice our learned skills and trades all of
the time to stay fresh and perpetuate our way of life. We must keep acquiring
new
skills and more materials for survival. Preparedness is a constant quest.
Survival trades that I've learned:
ASE Certified Master Auto Technician
Journeyman Machinist and Apprentice Welder.
Experience with all aspects of house construction from framing to finish work,
including house wiring and plumbing for water, gas and DWV systems.
Professional ditch digger and home brewer of beer.
Survival tools, equipment, and material acquired over the years:
Comprehensive set of Snap-On hand tools, diagnostic equipment and garage.
Several redundant computers and complete wi-fi coverage with satellite internet.
All of the carpentry, plumbing and electrical tools needed to build a house.
All of the tools required to garden both manually and with gas engines.
Fence building tools and supplies.
5,500 watt gas generator.
Wood stove and saws, axes, mauls, wedges.
Stores of food, bits of gold and silver, books and manuals, and lots of lead.
Survival firearms battery:
Auto-Ordinance Model 1911A1 .45 ACP (I qualified Marksman in USCG)
Stag Arms AR-15 with 20” Bull barrel, 5.56 (I qualified Expert in USCG)
Marlin .22 WMR (squirrel / varmint gun)
Mossberg .22 LR (shot this since 1962)
Ruger M77 Mk II .270 Win. (my deer rifle)
Winchester Model 94 .32 Win. Special (got my first deer with Grandpa’s
gun)
Mossberg 12 ga. 3 -1/2” Ulti-Mag in Camo (turkey / duck / goose gun)
Winchester Model 1897 12 ga. 2-3/4” (I've shot this gun since 1969)
Reloading equipment and supplies (loads for Barnes Bullets)
Survival Quest 2009 (the final pieces I'll need for grid down and
"zombies"):
Ruger M77 Mk II .300 Win Mag with optics
A manual water pump (the old pump is
gone)
Wind turbine and photovoltaic panels for water pumping and power generation.
Battery bank and inverter
More kerosene lamps
Night Vision for the AR-15
Radios
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Cold and Dark--An Account of an Ice Storm, by Steve S.
Preparations
In January, 2008, the outlook for people in the United States appeared bleak.
I told my wife that we needed to stock-up on food because I felt that the supply
lines were thin and vulnerable. I began my preparations by Internet search.
I found JWR's SurvivalBlog and I bought a copy of his novel. In the meantime,
I started buying cases of canned goods. I bought food that we generally ate.
I looked at the expiration dates of every purchase. I tried to buy what would
last through 2011. Not much would, so I bought with the idea of buying more
later, looking for one year at a time.
The pantry was full. I had read Jim's book, and had found many links
on the SurvivalBlog that helped me know how much of what to buy to be balanced.
I bought a freezer at Sam’s Club and filled that also. I noticed that
food prices were increasing at an alarming rate in August. They were up 18%
on same item purchases, on average. Later that figure would reach 35%. I only
talked about this to a trusted few. My wife was starting to wonder about me.
Soon thereafter, a Harbor Freight store opened in Jonesboro, Arkansas, my home
base. There, I purchased several more items I saw as essential. I got a two
burner propane stove with a center grill feature. I bought some LED flashlights,
ropes, staple guns, and other miscellaneous items. Being a hunter and former
U.S. Army officer, I had a lot of camping (survival equipment) on hand. Sleeping
bags were there, polypropylene long johns, butane lighters, three 20 gallon
and one 100 gallon propane tanks were filled. I use them for my barbeque grill.
I told my wife that we should buy a generator. She said that if I thought we
should buy it, that I should. I didn’t.
I found some water barrels at a local food processing plant. I now have eight
55 gallon drums. I found 4 red 35 gallon chemical barrels that were set aside
for gasoline. I had about six 5 gallon gas cans to operate my 4 wheeler, fishing
boat, and sundry other small engines like lawn equipment and field water pumps.
Day to day, I am an NRA certified training counselor/instructor. Starting in
November 2008, my business started to boom. I had a 300% increase in Arkansas
concealed carry classes. That hasn’t stopped to this day. I have a 35
acre facility that is a former bean field, surrounded by thousands of farmland
acres and two liquor stores. I have a 1,200 square foot building for classroom
and office space, a 52 foot trailer for storage. My plan for survival guns
was simple. All guns were to be military calibers. Handguns would be .45 and
.38 calibers. Rifles would be .22 rimfire, 7.62x39, .308 and .30-06 calibers.
Shotguns would be 12 gauge. Stocks of ammunition were increased starting early
in 2008.
Shelter, food, security. What is left? Communications. I bought a set of 25
mile range pair of Motorola hand held communicators with recharger on sale
for $38. Stores of batteries were laid in. Cell phones. Transportation was
what we already had. 2001 Dodge Durango 4x4 and a 2005 Chevrolet 4x4 extended
cab pick-up.
The Storm
January 28, 2009. KAIT –TV weather in Jonesboro, Arkansas is forecasting
a wet winter storm cold front with frigid weather following out of the Northwest.
When it began, the outside temperature was about 27 degrees Fahrenheit. Freezing
rain collected on everything in near biblical quantity.
I was awakened in the early morning of January 29th and you could hear branches
starting to snap with a sound like gunshots. Outside, you could see flashes of
light as one by one, the transformers on the light poles blew out. The power
was off. It was time to go to work. First, open the flue and light the gas logs
in the fireplace. Inside the house, the temperature had quickly fallen to about
40 degrees. I thought to crack a window for ventilation draft to reduce the chances
of carbon monoxide poisoning. Then I set up a propane heater and went about blocking
off all rooms except the den and kitchen, which were adjoining. I used 4 mil
plastic to cover two entrances to the den. The temperature quickly found about
62 degrees. We placed a carbon monoxide detector in the room to keep us from
being statistics. The propane stove was set up over the electric range for cooking
and a 20 pound bottle of propane was connected to it. I started thinking about
how I should have bought a generator.
By morning, we felt isolated in our home. Very few vehicles were moving. The
world outside looked like a war zone with ice-laden limbs and the things they
crushed. With no electricity, the phones didn’t work. We ate breakfast
normally. The whole world became our refrigerator. No cable TV so we cranked
up the radio and began to listen to the results. Reports of some break-ins started
coming in as people abandoned all electric homes for the designated shelters
in town. Outlying areas quickly ran out of gasoline and propane. Stores emptied
out their goods and shelves became bare. Generators and flashlights were nonexistent.
Batteries and power supplies followed suit. Many businesses were unable to sell
anything as their computers were down and lights and heat were out. Sadly, no
one has a backup plan for how to sell anything without electricity. Gas cans
were a faint memory. I checked on our neighbors to make sure they were coping,
and to exchange cell phone numbers. The telephone system actually works without
outside electricity if the type of phone you use doesn’t need 110 volts
from the grid. We had one emergency phone for that reason, and it was operational.
I wondered how many people knew about that?
The day passed relatively uneventfully. We had everything we needed to exist
in a minor disaster. Some people didn’t. A few died for their lack of
preparedness.
After the passing of the first day of “survival,” tree limb removal
became the priority, while everyone fought what southerners call severe cold.
It was the 30th of January. The temperature was unrelenting with nighttime lows
of 9 degrees and daytime highs of 20. I was able to venture out for things that
would be nice to have, like a generator. You see, with a generator, our gas furnace
would work. All you need it for is the electric blower. It was the only hole
in the preparations. I went in to the local Lowe’s, after checking a couple
of other stores. In the back of the store there was a line of about 13 people.
I asked why they were there. There was a truck inbound with 75 generators. I
got in line. Twenty minutes later I was in the electric department buying the
necessary wire nuts and power cords needed to hook my [newly-purchased] generator
to
the
power
panel in my house.
When I got home, the first thing I did was to disconnect the house from the grid
by turning off the main breaker, outside the house. You must do this before attempting
to connect a generator to your power panel. Failure to do so could kill workmen
repairing downed power lines and connecting transformers. To get things operational
quickly, I used the cord provided with the generator, which used four grounded
plug outlets. To operate the [selected] areas to connect, I bought 10
gauge wire. We turned off all appliances and I pulled out the circuit breaker
for the
selected
rooms. I disconnected the wire from the circuit breaker and wired it directly
to each wire with a male plug on the other end to mate with the wire from the
generator. I did this for the heater circuit, the den wall circuit, the kitchen
wall circuit, and the master bedroom wall circuit. The heater kicked on.
I offer one final note about using a generator. The operation book has a chart
in it showing the watts used by each type of appliance. You must calculate the
[load] amount used by your appliances. It has to add up to less than your generators
running wattage rating.
We were on a main highway in town, and we had our electricity hooked to the grid
after spending only a few nights without. Many in town were without electricity
for three weeks. In outlying areas, some are still not connected. The line crews
working to restore power were fantastic. Limbs still line the highways and yards
a month after the event began.
Lessons Learned
It was nice to be confident in the preparations that we had made. It was also
easy to see the holes in the plan. I now have the generator that I knew I would
need when the grid goes down. After the fact, I also bought the connections necessary
to hook up the generator just by turning off the main breaker, plugging the generator
to an installed wall socket, and cranking it up. Cell phones go down after only
a few days without a charge. I bought a portable power battery for that purpose.
If we had been out of power long term, the generator would have had to have been
used on a part time basis, at night. That means that daytime operations would
have been using only one or two rooms, again. When power goes down, the best
fallback is natural gas, if you have it. I am in the process of planning where
to install additional natural gas stubs for appliances that can be added. The
natural gas hot water heater was a blessing. It was on from the start. The warmest
place in the house was the utility room where the water heater is located. Remember
to have books and games for those evening hours when you would have been watching
television. Make sure all of your gasoline cans stay filled and stabilized. Make
sure
all of your propane bottles stay charged. Make sure you have plenty of batteries
for radios and flashlights. Make sure you have enough essential medicines. Roger’s
Rangers rules #1 rule is "Don’t fergit nuthin!"
I may have missed a few issues, but I want to talk about future plans. I am going
to install photovoltaic panels to run an emergency LED lighting system. This
would
be
a small solar panel, probably 45-60 watts [and a deep cycle battery], as a precursor
to getting
a more comprehensive system. LED lights use very little electricity and they
are
very
long lasting.
More technology will be added as it becomes available. Reducing reliance on the
grid is the ultimate goal.
Final Words
You can war game and "what if" emergency situations as much as you
like. It is good to exercise your plan. The problem is that real situations
have a
way of
waking you up to the holes in your plans. Do not wait to begin planning for the
next disaster. People in tornado and earthquake zones know about being ready
for these things, but Mother Nature will have a surprise for you no matter
where
you are.
Prepare for the worst and pray to God that it doesn’t happen.
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Letter Re: Selecting Retreat Properties--Pros and Cons of Buying Remote and Off Grid
Jim:
To follow-up on your
recent article, a very big “Pro” to buying
off-grid land that was not mentioned is that you will not have strangers
having
access to
your
property.
I am specifically
referring to the Meter Reader for the utility company. I have “country” property
on the Grid and have to furnish the Meter Reader a key to access the property
to read the electric meter. The Meter Reader comes once a month to read the
meter. I have not figured a way to deny them access. (Maybe you have a suggestion
on how to prevent the meter reader from accessing the property) This stranger
therefore has access to the property and also has a key to the gate and obviously
has some knowledge of what is physically located on the property since he traverses
the property to get to the meter. Being off grid puts you in a position to
be able to keep everyone off of the property which to me carries a lot of value.
- Carl D.
JWR Replies: Don't forget the propane delivery truck. But
at least that can be scheduled for once every couple of years, at your convenience,
and you don't need to give them a gate key.
« Letter Re: Pack a Property Tax Receipt in Your G.O.O.D. Kit, to Get Through Checkpoints |Main| Note from JWR: »
Selecting Retreat Properties--Pros and Cons of Buying Remote and Off Grid
I recently had a consulting client that hired me to do a search on his behalf
for a rural retreat property in southwestern Oregon. In the early stages of
the search, he asked about the pros and cons of buying undeveloped "off
grid"
properties that do not have utility power poles nearby. This summarizes my
reply:
From the standpoint of setting up a rural, self-sufficient retreat, an off-grid
parcel is actually advantageous, for two reasons:
1.) They are generally more remote and away from natural "lines of drift" and
hence are far less likely to be in the path of the Golden
Horde.
2.) Off-grid properties sell at up to a 30% discount versus comparable properties
that have grid power. On a large acreage, this savings is often enough to pay
for installing a photovoltaic power system
The downsides:
1.) Off-grid properties tend to be at higher elevation, since
it is just the "way out in the hills" properties that don't have
power poles nearby. Most of the low river valleys have long hence had grid
power. There are a few exception that I've encountered
2.) The property is unlikely to have line of sight to neighboring residences.
That can raise the risk of burglary if your retreat house is left unoccupied
for extended periods of time.
3.) There is remote (30+ minute drive to the nearest
town), and then there is very remote--a one hour+ drive to the nearest
town, part of which might be on either US Forest Service road or a road that
you have to maintain yourself. This could isolate you from commerce and social
interaction
especially in an era of fuel scarcity.
« Letter Re: Real World Observations on Fighting Crime and Criminals |Main| Note from JWR: »
Depression Proof Jobs for a 20 Year Depression - Part 2: Developing a Home-Based Business
Yesterday, in Part1, I discussed the "safe" and counter-cyclical occupations
for the unfolding economic depression. Today, I'd like to talk about one specific
approach:
self-employment
with a home-based business.
I posted most the following back in late 2005, but there are some important
points that are worth repeating:
The majority of SurvivalBlog readers that I talk with tell
me that they live in cities or suburbs, but they would like to live full
time at a retreat in a rural area. Their complaint is almost always the same: "...but
I'm not self-employed. I can't afford to live in the country because I can't
find work there, and the nature of my work doesn't allow telecommuting." They
feel stuck.
Over the years I've seen lots of people "pull the plug" and
move to the boonies with the hope that they'll find local work once
they get there. That usually doesn't work. Folks soon find that the most
rural jobs typically pay little more than minimum wage and they are often
informally
reserved for folks that were born and raised in the area. (Newcomers from
the big city certainly don't have hiring priority!)
My suggestion is to start a second income stream, with a
home-based business. Once you have that business started, then
start another one. There are numerous advantages to this
approach, namely:
You can get out of debt
You can generally build the businesses up gradually, so
that you don't need to quit your current occupation immediately
By working at home you will have the time to home school your children and
they will learn about how to operate a business.
You can live at your retreat full time. This will contribute to your self-sufficiency,
since you will be there to tend to your garden, fruit/nut trees, and livestock.
If one of your home-based businesses fails, then you can fall back on the
other.
Ideally, for someone that is preparedness-minded, a home-based business should
be something that is virtually recession proof, or possibly even depression
proof. Ask yourself: What are you good at? What knowledge or skills
do you have that you can utilize. Next, consider which businesses will flourish
during bad times. Some good examples might include:
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctioning of preparedness-related products.
Locksmithing
Gunsmithing
Medical Transcription
Accounting
Repair/refurbishment businesses
Freelance writing
Blogging (with paid advertising) If you have knowledge about a niche industry
and there is currently no authoritative blog on the subject, then start your
own!
Mail order/Internet sales of entertainment items. (When times get bad, people
still set aside a sizable percentage of their income for "escape" from
their troubles. For example, video rental shops have done remarkably well
during recessions.)
Burglar Alarm Installation
Other home-based businesses that seem to do well only in
good economic times include:
Recruiting/Temporary Placement
Fine arts, crafts, and jewelry. Creating and marketing your own designs--not "assembly" for
some scammer. (See below.)
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctions of luxury items, collectibles, or
other "discretionary spending" items
Personalized stationary and greeting cards (Freelance artwork)
Calligraphy
Web Design
Beware the scammers! The fine folks at www.scambusters.org have
compiled a "Top 10" list of common work-at-home and home based business scams
to beware of:
10. Craft Assembly
This scam encourages you to assemble toys, dolls, or other craft projects
at home with the promise of high per-piece rates. All you have to do is
pay
a fee up-front for the starter kit... which includes instructions and parts.
Sounds good? Well, once you finish assembling your first batch of crafts,
you'll be told by the company that they "don't meet our specifications."
In fact, even if you were a robot and did it perfectly, it would be impossible
for you to meet their specifications. The scammer company is making money selling
the starter kits -- not selling the assembled product. So, you're left with
a set of assembled crafts... and no one to sell them to.
9. Medical Billing
In this scam, you pay $300-$900 for everything (supposedly) you need to start
your own medical billing service at home. You're promised state-of-the-art
medical billing software, as well as a list of potential clients in your
area.
What you're not told is that most medical clinics process their own bills,
or outsource the processing to firms, not individuals. Your software may
not meet their specifications, and often the lists of "potential clients" are
outdated or just plain wrong.
As usual, trying to get a refund from the medical billing company is like trying
to get blood from a stone.
8. Email Processing
This is a twist on the classic "envelope stuffing scam" (see #1 below).
For a low price ($50?) you can become a "highly-paid" email processor
working "from the comfort of your own home."
Now... what do you suppose an email processor does? If you have visions of
forwarding or editing emails, forget it. What you get for your money are instructions
on spamming the same ad you responded to in newsgroups and Web forums!
Think about it -- they offer to pay you $25 per e-mail processed -- would any
legitimate company pay that?
7. "A List of Companies Looking for Homeworkers!"
In this one, you pay a small fee for a list of companies looking for homeworkers
just like you.
The only problem is that the list is usually a generic list of companies, companies
that don't take homeworkers, or companies that may have accepted homeworkers
long, long ago. Don't expect to get your money back with this one.
6. "Just Call This 1-900 Number For More Information..."
No need to spend too much time (or money) on this one. 1-900 numbers cost money
to call, and that's how the scammers make their profit. Save your money --
don't call a 1-900 number for more information about a supposed work-at-home
job.
5. Typing At Home
If you use the Internet a lot, then odds are that you're probably a good
typist. How better to capitalize on it than making money by typing at home?
Here's
how it works: After sending the fee to the scammer for "more information," you
receive a disk and printed information that tells you to place home typist
ads and sell copies of the disk to the suckers who reply to you. Like #8,
this scam tries to turn you into a scammer!
4. "Turn Your Computer Into a Money-Making Machine!"
Well, this one's at least half-true. To be completely true, it should read: "Turn
your computer into a money-making machine... for spammers!"
This is much the same spam as #5, above. Once you pay your money, you'll
be sent instructions on how to place ads and pull in suckers to "turn
their computers into money-making machines."
3. Multi-Level Marketing (MLM)
If you've heard of network marketing (like Amway), then you know that there
are legitimate MLM businesses based on agents selling products or services.
One big problem with MLMs, though, is when the pyramid and the ladder-climbing
become more important than selling the actual product or service. If the
MLM business opportunity is all about finding new recruits rather than selling
products or services, beware: The Federal Trade Commission may consider it
to be a pyramid scheme... and not only can you lose all your money, but you
can be charged with fraud, too!
We saw an interesting MLM scam recently: one MLM company advertised the
product they were selling as FREE. The fine print, however, states that
it is "free
in the sense that you could be earning commissions and bonuses in excess of
the cost of your monthly purchase of" the product. Does that sound like
free to you?
2. Chain Letters/Emails ("Make Money Fast")
If you've been on the Internet for any length of time, you've probably received
or at least seen these chain emails. They promise that all you have to
do is send the email along plus some money by mail to the top names on
the list,
then add your name to the bottom... and one day you'll be a millionaire.
Actually, the only thing you might be one day is prosecuted for fraud.
This is a classic pyramid scheme, and most times the names in the chain
emails
are manipulated to make sure only the people at the top of the list (the
true scammers) make any money. This scam should be called "Lose Money
Fast" -- and it's illegal.
1. Envelope Stuffing
This is the classic work-at-home scam. It's been around since the U.S. Depression
of the 1920s and 1930s, and it's moved onto the Internet like a cockroach
you just can't eliminate. There are several variations, but here's a sample:
Much like #5 and #4 above, you are promised to be paid $1-2 for every envelope
you stuff. All you have to do is send money and you're guaranteed "up
to 1,000 envelopes a week that you can stuff... with postage and address
already affixed!" When you send your money, you get a short manual
with flyer templates you're supposed to put up around town, advertising
yet another
harebrained work-from-home scheme. And the pre-addressed, pre-paid envelopes?
Well, when people see those flyers, all they have to do is send you $2.00
in a pre-addressed, pre-paid envelope. Then you stuff that envelope with
another flyer and send it to them. Ingenious perhaps... but certainly illegal
and unethical.
From all that I've heard, most franchises and multi-level marketing schemes
are not profitable unless you pick a great product or service, and you
already have a strong background in sales. Beware of any franchise where you
wouldn't have a protected territory. My general advice is this: You will probably
be better off starting your own business,
making, retailing, or consulting about something where you can leverage
your existing knowledge and/or experience.
---
In closing, I'd like to reemphasize that home security and locksmithing are
likely to provide steady and profitable employment for the next few years,
since hard
economic times are likely to trigger a substantial crime wave. After
all, someone has
to keep watch on the tens of thousands of foreclosed, vacant houses. (If not
watched, then crack cocaine addicts, Chicago syndicate politicians, or other
undesirables might move in!)
« Letter Re: Kids and Home Security |Main| Note from JWR: »
Perspectives on Prepping on a Very Low Income, by Kuraly
I was raised in a missionary family, on nine different mission fields around
the world. At the age of nineteen, I went out to serve the Lord on my own in
the former Soviet Union. I had no formal Theological training, but was accepted
by the missionary societies of my denomination because of my experience under
my father and my willingness to go to dangerous areas.
I married, and my wife and I have now six children. A few years ago, due to
some changes in my theology, I fell out of favor with my denomination and had
to return home to the USA. I was faced with a situation of suddenly having
to feed and care for a large family with: 1. no formal education/training/skills
of any kind and 2. very little understanding of the southern American culture
that I found myself living in. I was forced to take very low-paying jobs and
survive on a low-income.
With our savings we were able to buy a small rural house and 7.5 acres in the
southeast. We were able to pay cash, I wanted it to be ours with no strings
attached, regardless of what the future held. I figured that at the very least
we would have a roof and some plantable land. I bought in the area my parents
lived in to help care for them as they progressed in years.
Our income is very limited. I work at just above minimum wage. I work a full-time
job and another part-time job. I am thankful that the Lord provides.
As I studied current events I became concerned about the possibility of a world-wide
economic and/or societal collapse of some kind, or a societal break-down here
in the USA resulting from any number of possible reasons. I had witnessed the
chaos of the nineties in the former Soviet Union, had watched doctors and physicists
sweep streets and live off of potatoes and bread for months on end, and I was
concerned about my responsibility to feed my family should a similar collapse
happen here.
What can you do when you have very limited means? Actually there is much you
can do. It amounts to setting goals and getting your family on board with you.
The first thing I did was (after my wife and I had many long talks and she
began to see things in a similar way), I gathered the family around and explained
everything to them. I explained about our limited means, exactly how much money
was coming in, how much went to utilities, fuel, etc. I explained what I believed
the dangers were. I explained what we needed to do as a family. Let me interject
here that after being born and growing up on a third-world mission field, they
were far from spoiled children! They were accustomed to living in tight quarters,
washing in cold water, eating cheap, and basically just "roughing it."
My first priority was for two weeks worth of provisions. We began to buy a
few extra cans of food when we went shopping. I set a goal of 20 dollars per
week for prepping. Some weeks ten dollars of canned goods and/or dried foods
like rice, beans or noodles, and ten dollars in ammo or medical supplies. Some
weeks just food, some weeks just extra gasoline. We bought gas cans at thrift
stores and garage sales for a dollar apiece, Large scented candles (better
than nothing) at closeout sales and garage sales for 30 and 50 cents, and just
about anything we could scrounge that might come in handy if the lights went
out. It did not take us long to build up enough supplies to last two weeks
in an emergency. We had enough gasoline to drive to work for two weeks (if
needed), enough food for our family plus a little extra, and candles, radios,
batteries and other odds and ends to get by.
I had also along the way added
to my ammunition stocks for my Winchester .30-30, and my bolt-action .22 LR.
After we reached the point where we felt we had enough for a two-week catastrophe,
we began to focus on the six-month time frame. This opened up many entirely
new possibilities. since the food required for this amount of time was such
a major expense, we had to make sure that it would last for several years.
This raised the issue of long-term storage in buckets, mylar bags and oxygen-absorbers.
We had to save for months to buy an order of oxygen-absorbers and mylar bags
on e-bay! We found low-cost buckets and began to fill them with rice, feed
corn, corn meal, noodles, beans etc. Anything that was inexpensive. We taught
the children to like corn-meal mush and grits since they might get quite a
bit of it one day!
Gradually we worked our way up to 30 buckets. At this point I made a strategic
decision. I decided that we needed to invest our extra funds in gardening.
Not entirely stopping the food storage, but reducing it in favor of procuring
means and experience in growing and canning our own food. We began to buy canning
jars and lids to put away in the attic for the future. My father gave us a
tiller with a blown engine which we were able to get fixed, and we began to
garden. The first garden was not very well thought-out. Some things grew, some
did not. But we learned. We learned first-hand what pollination means and about
soil fertility. We learned about bugs and blight. We gained valuable experience.
We also invested in chickens, and watched some of them die, some of them be
eaten by neighbor's dogs, some get eaten by our dogs, and the hardy survivors
begin to lay eggs. We watched them eat their own eggs and learned to give them
calcium. We let half of them free range and half range in portable pens that
we built which have an open floor that we could move each day to fresh grass.
We learned how to make them roost and lay where they were supposed to.
We bought some rabbits and learned a lot, real fast! We experimented with many
types of portable cages for rabbits which would allow us to move them from
one grassy spot to another without giving them time to dig a burrow. Sometimes
we would wake up and find rabbit carcases torn to shreds, because a neighborhood
cat had gotten to them. My kids handled most of this, and they learned things
the hard way.
If you haven't figured it out yet, We were totally green. I spent my life traveling
and overseeing the translation of Christian literature into foreign languages.
My wife is a musician. We had zero experience at any of this, and no one around
that we knew to advise us. We had to learn everything from scratch. We bought
a goat and promptly saw it attacked and killed by a stray dog. That hurt,
financially as well as emotionally. After sending the dog to join the
goat "on the other side", I bought another goat. and then another.
These have survived. We have learned to care for them.
Gradually I am seeing my children grow confident in their relationship to the
animals under their care. Gradually we are learning the needs of these animals
and how to make them produce for us. If we had had some kind of hands-on training,
it would have saved the lives of a lot of animals, but we didn't. I am happy
to announce a much higher survival rate for animals that we bring home now.
I felt like I needed a greater firearms capability (what man doesn't?). I thought
long and hard. At first I bought a Mosin-Nagant since they were so cheap ($75)
and the ammo was dirt-cheap as well. I then began to consider what type of
semi-automatic I could afford. I looked at the prices of ammo which was very
critical since I would have to train my entire family to shoot. At the time
the best deal for us appeared to be the SKS rifle.
It was cheap (a good quality Yugo[slavian SKS] was less than $200), dependable,
semi-auto and the ammo was
very cheap at the time. I later added a cheap 12 gauge pump, and last but not
least,
a
17 round Bersa Thunder 9mm. After purchasing these guns I began to pick up
ammo for them when I could find it on sale. I have gradually gotten up to about
500 rounds for each of them.
I then turned my attention to our home and it's defense. While we live in the
country, we are close to our neighbors 100 yards +/-, about five miles from
a small town, about 15 miles from a large town, and about 90 miles from Atlanta
(upwind fortunately). My greatest concern is our proximity to the road. The
house is only about 65 feet from the dirt road in front of our house. A looter
or burglar/rapist could be at the door or windows before the dog barked. In
response to this my next expenditure is to be fence posts, fencing, and barbed
wire, along with a row of thorny bushes in front of the wire next to the road.
Our house is a soft target, offering no ballistic protection. My remedy/forlorn
hope is to have plenty of sand and gravel on hand, and to start checking the
thrift stores for pillow cases to buy and store. perhaps we would have time
to bag up sand bags and at least harden up certain corners or rooms of the
house. We also have several large piles of sandstone (we live on top of a mountain)
which could be placed strategically and then perhaps sand bags on top of that.
We could also cut logs and add that to the mix.
Our water supply is a [grid-powered] electric well. This is one of my biggest
worries. We have made it a priority to buy a generator at least strong enough
to run
the
well and freezers for an hour or two a day. I know that this is only a temporary
solution but is about all we can handle right now. I am very thankful for the
non-fiction writing contribution about the siphon pumps for wells such as mine,
that offered up new possibilities which I have not had time to address yet.
We also have a neighbor 1/4 mile away which has an artesian spring on his property,
though it has extremely high iron content. I have purchased two 330 gallon
plastic livestock watering tanks and several drums which I can fill at the
first sign of trouble. I can also load them on my little trailer and pull them
down to the neighbor's to fill up from his well. I just need to check on the
ramifications of the high iron content.
I am also trying to fill up as many containers as possible with gasoline. I
add Sta-Bil and plan to use/rotate it yearly (as long as the price stays low).
I would like to keep at least 250 to 500 gallons on hand at all times. I buy
old gas cans at yard sales and just found a source for cheap 55 gallon drums
with sealed lids ($3). I may start using them instead.
Our immediate plans are to build more pens and raise more chickens and goats,
maybe a pig or two. We also look forward to planting a much bigger garden this
spring and maybe use some of our hard-won experience of last year. We also
want to involve the kids in martial arts classes if we can afford it, as well
as herb-collecting hikes from the local community college field school (which
are free and fun). We want to spend more time with them in the woods and in
the garden so that they feel comfortable there and begin to think about survival
from their own perspective. We also are beginning to exploit the library for
free resources for them to study on various topics.
The future of this country looks grim. As Christians we have "read the
back of the Book" and we know Who wins. Our responsibility is to be good
stewards of the talents we have, perform our duties as husbands and wives,
mothers and fathers, and ultimately, to trust Him for that which is beyond
our vision and power.
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Two Letters Re: Alaska as a Retreat Locale
Jim,
For starters I would like to say that Jim you are dead-on with your Delta
Junction recommendation. I live near Delta. And it is some of the finest
farm land in the
world. everything grows amazing here. Some of the information in the previous
letters is wrong and I would like to clarify them . The growing season may
be a little shorter in days of light, but in total hours of light it is much
longer than other places. It gets light here in May and gets dark at night
again in late August. Some vegetables will grow great, some don't do so well,
Corn doesn't like it, but potatoes grow without trying. And as for isolation,
that's the idea. Things are harder to get, but you learn to live with less
and enjoy it more. As for power, at least in the Delta area you do not need
to worry about that in the winter, solar is awesome here in the summer, but
in winter the wind is ever present. I have four wind generators that I built
from old car alternators and Fan blades. I never had a loss in the battery
bank.
I live off of their grid anyway, so I am used to adapting.
As for the wood
situation, certain types of trees do incredibly well here, And they grow faster
not slower, I have trees that I know weren't there ten years ago and are over
twelve feet tall, Spruces grow well here, and birch is my main heat, I have
a fair sized house, and a new, catalyst stove and burn 5-to-7 cords of wood
per
winter.
Fuel is more expensive here, but it fluctuates like anywhere else,
buy when the price is low, and stockpile it. In this area it is common for
people to have a couple of 1,000 gallon tanks buried in their yard, Moose and
caribou ar always around as a meat source, as with buffalo in this area. (Yes
we have buffalo in Alaska). Along with Many other species of flora and fauna.
On the other hand Alaska is not a place for those who can not take care of
themselves. In this area it is not uncommon to see the temps dip below -60,F.
I have seen -72. It is dark all winter, And the stores never have what you
want.
There is plenty of water though, my well is thirty feet deep, and the pump
is set down to twenty feet, My suggestion for people who are thinking about
moving to Alaska is simple, Unless you have lived a subsistence lifestyle for
a while, are used to constant extreme weather changes, and can do it on your
own, stay where you are, or find some place else. As for me, I will never go
outside [Alaska] again, you can keep it. - Z. in Alaska
Mr. Rawles
I too am a long time reader and this is also the first time I have written.
I urge all of your readers to take head to Mr. Galt's letter concerning Alaska
as a retreat locale. It is harsh up here. I live in Delta Junction area and
love it. We have been here for over 10 years now and have our place set up
pretty well. We live off grid and in the bush, hunt, fish, trap, mush dogs
etc. etc. I wouldn't encourage anyone to try to move here and set up a retreat
this late in the game. We just went through a couple weeks of -50 to -60(Tok
recorded -78) temperatures then 70 m.p.h. hour winds that blew down many
trees and damaged a lot of structures. These things are a regular occurrence.
A lot
of Russian immigrants have moved from the lower 48 into the Delta area. Most
of the ones I have met seem to be good people but most live off welfare.
When the welfare stops we'll have problems. The bad bunch of them are thieves
already not just the Russian but Americans also. The Russian community has
a bad reputation for it though. Anyone planning to move here and find a job
might be in for a rude awakening.
The local jobs don't pay enough to live on the grid and the government jobs
stay filled mostly. Delta is profiting from a small military bubble economy
brought
about
by the Ground-Based Midcourse Defense
(GMD) program but with you know in office now all that could come to a
screeching halt at anytime. Because of the GMD program everyone around here
thinks their land has gold on it and prices it
accordingly.
Yes, Delta does have a big farming community. Most of the farmers get buy
living off of government programs and are deeply in debt. The ones that don't
live
off the program hurt. Most farms lay dormant wile collecting CRP checks.
I have heard that there will be no more new CRP contracts in the future. The
fertility of the farm land has gone way down too because of the climate here.
The cold doesn't allow much time for plant matter to decompose plus it's hard
to have crop rotation with only Barley. (Barley, hay grasses, potatoes, and
carrots are the main crops grown here.) For the last three years we have had
a frost in the middle
of August that pretty much killed any vegetables that were not in a green house.
Wells in Delta are any where from 40 to 450 feet in depth. If you buy land
where there is bed rock you may drill 450 deep and still get mastodon pee to
drink. Wells are at $50 a foot this year. Better plan on how to get water out
of the well when the power goes down. Currently heating oil is 2.23 at the
pump in town, more if its delivered. Diesel is currently $3.69. It hit $5 last
winter. Fire wood from Delta Lumber is $180 per cord until they run out for
the winter other sources are up to $250. The people from Delta lumber are great
people and will work themselves silly trying make sure no one goes cold. I
have seen one add for firewood for $300 per cord. Dry firewood is a must because
-50 the soot form green wood builds in the chimney thus creating chimney fire.
A friend of mine got burned out at -50 for that very reason. They didn't get
in enough dry wood for the winter. Luckily they were able to run to separate
garage and no one suffered any cold injuries. Finding a place to cut fire wood
now is getting hard to find.
Most people here are enjoying high power bills now since Golden Valley increased
their rates. The average size house power bill is running $300- $400 [per month]
in the winter maybe less if your really frugal. You have to keep your vehicles
plugged in. In a diesel that is like running a 1,500 watt electric heater.
Wind power is a possibility if your turbine can withstand the wind. Closer
to the mountains it has been 100 mph. The wind here isn't steady it is really
gusty, not good for turbine. Rent is running around a $1,000 and up for a three
bedroom home. Certified sewers are from $6,000 to $16,000 depending. Cost to
build is running around the $150 per square foot range and going up.
If you don't know how Seasonal Affect Disorder (SAD) will affect you, then
you's better find out before you try to make a permanent move here. Cabin fever
has been the demise of many people who move here and plan to live the wilderness
experience. The only cure for it is to be outside. It don't matter what the
the temp is you got to get out side when it's light. SAD has be the cause for
suicide, alcoholism, and drugs. People do the latter two to cope. I personally
have never had it. I have too much work to do. People who don't procrastinate
and get all there chores done and food stores in order for the winter and plan
to stay in the cabin for the winter suffer the worse. We don't procrastinate
but we don't stay in either. The cabin is only a place to warm up, eat and
sleep. Living is done outside the cabin. We trap, mush dogs, care for the horses,
cut more fire wood when it's not too cold, fire up the blacksmith forge, build
some log furniture. It is easy to get lazy and lethargic during the winter.
You have to fight the urge daily. We had a couple move in not to far from us.
I told the lady to make sure she kept the windows uncovered in the winter.
Well, they were the lazy type and didn't ever have enough wood cut so they
covered the windows and blocked out some of the cold but mostly the light.
They made
it though one winter but the next one they didn't. They pulled up [stakes]
and left middle of the winter.
As much as I love living here, if I were looking for a retreat locale this
late in the game then it would be some place more hospitable. We did move here
for the
lack of people and when things get even worse I expect people to start migrating
out of Alaska especially the interior. It requires a lot of hard work to live
here more especially so if your living off the land. How would you like to
cut 20 cords of wood with a hand operated saw and axe when you run out of gas
and or you saw goes down? Running chain saws in the sub-zero weather is hard
on them. Better get extra clutches for them. What about when the mosquitoes
bloom and you have run out of bug dope?
Hunting is decent here. The Russian community poaches a lot of the moose in
the Delta management area. They do it to eat. I am not knocking them for that.
When the SHTF it
will be even worse therefore even we will have to start going further into
the bush to hunt using sled teams to get there. If you plan to
have dogs and sled they require a lot of food. [Here they eat mostly] fish.
The salmon that makes it this far inland is [best -suited for] dog food. It
is pretty beat up by the
time
is gets
here.
The flesh is a faint pink to gray color as they are close to the end of the
life span. Anyone planning to come to Alaska to survive the upheaval better
have there you know what together or they won't make it. This land is unforgiving
and the least mistakes get big in a hurry. Sorry that my letter has gotten
so long but I want people to know what they are getting into if they come here
thinking
it's paradise. It ain't. but it's the life we love. People here are willing
to help if you are not stupid. Our favorite saying around here is "If
you gonna be dumb then you'd better be tough" - C.B.
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Letter Re: Alaska as a Retreat Locale
Mr. Rawles,
Although being an avid reader, this is the first time I have written your site.
The letters posted on your site today respecting Alaska as a retreat locale
raised a few possible issues in my mind. First of all, let me say that Alaska
is my favorite place in the world, and I wouldn't have it any other way.
However, as a retreat locale, one may want to think twice unless the situation
forces their location there. Also, it is important to remember that the conditions
and terrain in Alaska are very wide ranging, depending where you are. The
climate can range from arctic in the north to relatively mild in the south.
I have heard the climate in the south compared to that of the mid-Atlantic
states on the East coast.
Most parts of the state are totally without agriculture, but there is some
in the Matanuska-Susitna
Valley. The growing season is usually around 100 days
long, and can produce huge vegetables because of the length of the days. Some
vegetables do well there, such as potatoes, carrots and cabbage.
Therefore, if one intends to do any kind of farming in Alaska, the "Mat-Su"
Valley is where it is possible. However, there is a major drawback to this
fact,
from
the perspective of retreat logistics. The Mat-Su valley is one of the most
densely populated areas of the state. It has, as of late, been converting
to suburban communities for workers who commute to Anchorage. As we all
know,
the suburbs are a bad, bad place to be WTSHTF.
And even if one were to build a retreat in a section of the valley not yet
suburban, there is no way to
know that it would remain so for the next five years or more.
Prepping before the SHTF is
made more difficult by the state's isolation. Building materials, fuel,
food, guns, ammo, medical supplies and any other product must be shipped in
from the [continental] US or elsewhere.
This makes these
products not only
more expensive, but generally less available, especially outside of the urban
centers. Ordering off the web makes them easier to get, but the shipping
is still expensive. Fuel of any kind is the most expensive in the nation,
and
ammo is pretty over-priced, too.
Fuel, as one letter pointed out, is a major problem. Getting by without fossil
fuels is a main goal of most preppers, and it may prove more difficult in
Alaska. Solar is out, at least during the winter. Not only is there very
little light,
but it is less intense than elsewhere, due to the oblique angle at which
it hits the state (as it is so far north). I don't know a lot about wind,
so that
may be a possibility. If it was, any parts would be difficult to get. As
K.L.'s letter says, firewood is a possibility, but this raises three issues.
As he says, with no gas or diesel = no power tools to cut [and haul firewood].
Any broken hand tools would be irreplaceable, and even having extras is likely
not enough
when you plan to cut by hand and burn firewood for a very extended period
of time.
Hand cutting firewood is also time consuming.
Since it would need to be done in the summer, it would take up time for farming
and other chores. This might not be a problem if you are part of a large
retreat group, however. Also, felling trees, in any way, especially by hand,
is extremely
dangerous. I would strongly recommend a logger certification class for anyone
planning to possibly use firewood as a retreat fuel. Although the course
will focus on mechanical forestry, the safety principles are the same universally.
Third, unless one has a retreat on a very spacious lot, it is possible to
run out of firewood to cut. Trees grow much slower in Alaska People who
do not heat
their homes in this manner would be surprised at the amount of fuel a wood
stove can use in a winter. For instance, to heat the house on my family farm,
it
takes roughly 10 to 15 cords to get through the winter,
with a little to spare for safety's sake. And that is back in New York, not
Alaska. Imagine cutting
that much
firewood on a 25 acre lot for five years or more. One may be able to cut
off of their property, but that is a bad way to meet the neighbors, especially
after
TSHTF.
This letter ran much longer than I planned, and I would like to go on further,
but time prevents me from doing so. In short, think twice about a retreat
in Alaska. It is absolutely possible, but would present much greater difficulties
than other feasible places. In the lower 48, one can find the same type of
isolated area, but with:
Better farming conditions
Lower prices in general
A climate not requiring huge amounts of fuel for the winter
Ability to travel through the US without crossing international borders
(If they still exist after TSHTF)
And so forth...
If you think you can do it, then go for it. My wife thinks I'm trying to keep
it all for myself. - J. Galt
JWR Replies: Thanks for that input. I have my doubts about
the viability of the Mat-Su Valley in worst-case collapse. Its proximity to
the hungry, teeming
masses of Anchorage is troubling. Alaska cannot feed its population, even
in today's economy, and one can only wonder what it would be like grid-down,
with no
fuel available.
I encourage anyone serious about living in Alaska to look
at the
Delta Junction area, in Alaska's interior. I haven't been there since
the summer of 1980 (when I attended the U.S. Army Northern
Warfare School), but it struck me as a very productive agricultural
region.)
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Retreat Building Lighting Systems, by The Old Yooper
Lighting systems in a retreat home (not connected to the grid).
My home does not fit the definition of a retreat. I built it about 30 years
ago in the UP (Upper Peninsula of Michigan) when the idea of a retreat location
was not on my radar screen. Only by coincidence has my home worked out to fit
a retreat definition, better situated them many, not as good as some. It is
quite secluded, the only house at the end of a dead end dirt road. It has never
had grid power run to it. The utility company wanted as much money to run the
power lines through the woods back to my cabin as the cabin cost me to build.
It’s not that I didn’t know that when I built the cabin, I just
did not think it was anything I needed to have at the time. This is not that
unusual in the UP as it may seem to most people. There are lots of homesteads
too far off the beaten path to have grid power connected up here in the UP.
The cabin is 2000 sq. ft. with three bedrooms, two baths, living room, kitchen
and dining room. Also a full basement, not included in the square footage above.
It is as modern as most houses today except for how every thing works. I will
only concentrate on lighting in this essay. In later essays (if anyone is interested)
I can explain cooking, refrigeration, heating, electricity, etc. I hope you
don’t mind my folksy/personal writing style; it’s just the way
I am.
Today we are heading into a monumental depression of historic magnitude. No
one truly knows how bad it will get or how long it will last. I think it was
Benjamin Franklin that said “prepare for the worst and hope for the best” and
that’s as true today as it was over 200 years ago. I know the subject
of lighting may seem somewhat mundane and even silly to some, put a few candles
away and we will be OK, they hope. But without sustained, reliable lighting,
day to day life can get pretty difficult at best. It’s important to try
to keep your home as normal as possible in the hard times ahead for you, your
family and whoever may be seeking refuge with you. All lighting systems take
energy of some form just as cooking and heating do, this is the first thing
to keep in mind when planning for your lighting systems.
As Mr. Rawles has said in the past “two is one and one is none”.
I have learned this the hard way, by experiencing a failure in a system. I
have four, separate, distinct and independent (from each other) lighting systems
in the house. So a failure of one or even two will not make my lights go out.
The first lighting system is AC electric. The cabin is fully wired for 110/220V
AC power, normal household electrical current. Supplied via gas generator,
wind
generator, and inverter/charger battery bank system, again if anyone is
interested I can go into greater detail about the electrical systems in another
essay. For the most part the electric lights in the house are compact fluorescent
with a few exceptions. One of the exceptions are the under-cabinet 10 watt
halogen lights in the kitchen. Ten watts is not much but there are 13 of them
under
the cabinets. I must admit that they are nice to have on and 130 watts is not
all that much either, however I tend to forget about them being on and along
with the TV and lights on in the living room, bathroom and a bedroom (kids,
you
know how that is) the batteries are drawn down much too fast. Well I can’t
use the kids excuse anymore, it's grandkids now. We all know how electric lights
work; you flip a switch and the lights come on. That is true with inverter
power also, as long as you use the right inverter system.
Just to be clear about electricity, it is by far the most convenient and at
the same time the most susceptible to failure of all the lighting systems I
use. I have run out of gas, aggravating at the time but not a major problem,
unless gas becomes unavailable? I have had generator and/or inverter system
failures; yes even the best will not last indefinitely. The worst electrical
failure I have experienced was lightning hitting the phone line coming into
the cabin. The phone lines are underground but the lightning hit it anyway.
It followed the line into the house, blowing every phone jack off the walls
and ruined all three of my phones. It also crossed over to the electrical wiring
and fried most every thing plugged in to wall outlets. NOTE: I have plug strips
supposedly with electrical breakers built into them, so I can turn off the
TV, stereo, and the like so they will not run down the batteries. All modern
electronics and appliances use power even when there not in use. [JWR
Adds: These are so-called
"phantom loads", typically caused the microcircuits for clocks and
other sub-modules.] The lightning went across these plug strips as if they
were hard wired in.
This
was a major
system failure. My homes owners insurance covered all repairs and replacements.
However in a TEOTWAWKI there would be no insurance and no repairs or replacements
unless I fixed them myself and, spare parts would be out of the question.
My second lighting system is propane gas. The cabin is plumbed for gas lights
in most of the main rooms down stairs and the master bedroom and bathroom upstairs.
These are gas mantle lights. To light them I use a Bic lighter under the mantle
and turn on the gas, and I have instant light. When I first installed the gas
lights, I would use a kitchen match (wooden matches), to light them. I soon
discovered I was very good at poking a hole in the mantle with the match; I
soon switched to a Bic lighter. Mantles cost about $7.00 each. They are about
as bright as a 65 to 70 watt incandescent light bulb. I have two styles of
gas mantle lights in my home. The first and the ones I started with are Humphrey
gas lights; I only have two of them. These are good dependable well made lighting
fixtures of sheet metal construction; the only drawback is there a little homely.
As far as I know there is only one style, a wall mount fixture. Humphrey gas
lighting fixtures can be found at most propane distributors and country hardware
stores.
The second gas lighting fixture and the one I prefer is Falks gas lighting
fixtures. These are a much more elegant lighting fixture made in Canada out
of solid brass. There are three styles of Falks lighting fixtures to pick from.
A single mantle wall mount, double mantle wall mount and a double mantle chandelier,
I have all three styles in my cabin. Both the Humphrey and Falks gas lights
use the same globes and mantles. I have several spare mantles and globes on
hand at all times. Falks gas lights can be ordered from Lehman's. The
cost for the single Falks gas light is about $80 US and $75 US for a Humphrey
gas light. Gas lights are just as bright as electric lights.
When I installed the gas lights I used 1⁄2” soft copper tubing
for main runs and 3/8” soft copper tubing off the main run for a single
lighting fixture. If you put in gas lights never use hard copper tubing that
requires soldering the joints. Only use soft copper tubing and flare fittings
that are designed for gas applications. Use a soap swab to check for gas leaks
at every connection. Never use a match to check for leaks. If there is a leak
(and there will be some) at a connection you can have an instant blow torch
on your hands, and that blow torch can just as well be in your face. If you
do not know how to install gas fixtures have a licensed plumber do them.
Both Falks and Humphrey gas lights use about .085 lb of gas per hour per mantle.
I think a little math is in order here.
One gallon of propane weighs about 4.23 lb.
A 20 lb. propane tank (type for gas grills) contains somewhere in the neighborhood
of 4.7 gallons of gas. If you did the math you will find that it isn’t
exactly 20 lbs., the numbers aren’t carried out properly to the last
decimal place.
Therefore a 20 lb. propane tank will run one mantle light for approximately
234 hours of continues use. If you ran a gas light for 5 hours a night one
20 lb. tank will last for 47 days. However refilling 20 lb. tanks is the most
expensive way to buy and store propane gas.
A 100 lb. tank will run one mantle light for approximately 1,176 hours of continues
use. And if you ran a gas light for 5 hours a night, one 100 lb. tank will
last for 235 days more or less. I’m sure someone will check my math to
see if it works out and that’s Okay, I make lots of mistakes.
I have a 500 gallon propane pig (tank) for gas, which is kind of a lot for
just lighting. I also use propane for other things in my cabin. The last time
propane was delivered last October it cost $2.49 per gallon. At that price
it cost approximately $0.05 per hour to run one light. Also propane will store
for ever with no degradation of the gas (it doesn’t "go bad"). You can’t
say that for gasoline, kerosene or diesel. A side note: I am told that we are
in a deflationary spiral, but the only things that I can see going down in
price is real estate and gasoline. Food, clothing, repairs of anything and
the stuff you need day to day haven’t gone down at all. (Just a little
whining).
My third independent lighting system; kerosene lights. I use two types of kerosene
lights in the cabin. The first is Aladdin lamps. I have four Aladdin lamps,
one is a Majestic Table lamp, and three Genie III shelf lamps one of which
is in a hanging fixture in my bedroom, and the two others are on each end of
the fireplace mantle. Aladdin lamps can be a bit temperamental to operate.
All Aladdin lamps are mantle lamps similar to Coleman Lanterns however they
use a round wick like an old kerosene lamp. The temperamental part, the wick
must be trimmed evenly all around the top. If it is not you will get flame
spikes (I call them horns) coming up into the mantle and if, (not when), these
little fiery horns touch the mantle it will start building up with carbon.
All you have to do is turn down thee wick so the horn is not touching the mantle
and the carbon will burn off the mantle. However if you don’t turn the
wick down, the mantle will continue to build up carbon and eventually put out
copious amounts of lovely black soot, to coat your ceiling and fill the air
with a witches' brew of noxious gas and smoke. On the bright side, Aladdin
lamps will generate the equivalent of a 50 watt incandescent light bulb and
at the
same time will put out about 2,700 BTU’s of heat, that’s a lot
of heat in the summer time from one lamp. In the evenings in the fall and spring
of the year, I can heat my cabin with nothing but Aladdin lamps (if it’s
not too cold out). A log cabin retains heat very well, and all my windows are
triple glazed. If you would like to try Aladdin lamps they are available
at many country hardware stores and Lehman’s by mail order. After making
it sound awful, I like my Aladdin lamps, it just takes a little practice to
learn how to use them. If you are going to use Aladdin lamps you will need
to stock up on Aladdin Chimneys, Mantles and Wicks. There are two types of
Aladdin Chimneys. The first is the Lox-On Chimney; I’ve had them last
for years and also had them break in a week. In my opinion the Heel-Less Chimney
is superior, it allows the glass to move as it heats up and cools off without
breaking. For about $12.00 a Gallery Adapter will convert a Burner to use a
Heel-less Chimney. Newly manufactured Aladdin Lamps come with Heel-Less Chimneys.
I have several table and wall mounted old fashion kerosene lamps. I also have
one very ornate Victorian hanging library lamp in my dinning room. It is solid
brass with a ruby red hob nail, glass shade, and lots of prisms. If it sounds
like my cabin is old fashioned, it is. One rule of thumb in lighting any kerosene
lamp, light the wick with a low flame and let the lamp and kerosene in it heat
up. As the kerosene gets hotter its viscosity goes down and flows much
faster. As the kerosene flows faster the flame will get bigger and bigger.
There is no reason for the chimney to soot up if you just start with a low
flame and let the lamp heat up. After the lamp is hot you can adjust the brightness.
If you plan on using kerosene lamps stock up on wicks and chimneys. The wicks
are consumables and no matter how careful you are chimneys break. Almost forgot,
every time the lamps are filled the wick should be trimmed, I trim the wick
just to clean it up flat across its top and I cut a small 45º angle off each
end of the wick, so the flame will have a domed appearance. If that is not
clear just experiment with it, you will learn as you go.
How mush kerosene should be stored? I am told that kerosene will last for about
15 years before it goes bad. In 2008 I used about 30 gallons of kerosene; I
use more in the winter then in the summer. In a TEOTWAWKI I would be mush more
conservative than I am right now. If you’re going to use kerosene as
one of your lighting systems I would suggest storing from 100 to 200 gallons
in 55 gallon plastic drums.
The last lighting system is just old fashion candles. Several years ago I was
able to acquire about 200 pounds of wax from a company I worked for. The
company applied wax to one of the products they manufactured. When they had
a product change on the coating machine they had to purge all the wax out of
the machine and put in a different formula for the changeover. The purged
wax was pumped out into five gallon buckets and discarded. It is amazing how
much stuff is thrown away that could be used in a grid down situation. All
this wax I have stashed will someday have to be made into candles. There are
two basic ways to make candles. The first is to mold (cast) them in a candle
mold. I have had one of these for a very long time; it casts 8 candles at a
time. The candle mold is simple to use. Just feed a pre-waxed string (wick)
through the hole in the bottom of each candle mold, bend it over so it will
not come out. Tie the other end to a rod across the top of the mold and fill
the mold with wax. Let the wax solidify, dip in hot water and pull out the
candles. Trim the string off the bottom of each candle and store in a cool
place until needed. Candle molds can be made fairly simply to just about any
length and diameter you desire. I have made 1” diameter x 14” long
candle molds. Use hard copper tubing, or PVC plastic pipe would work also.
Cut to the length desired and chamfer both ends inside and out side (de-burr
it). Take a cap that fits over the end of the tubing and drill a hole in the
center of it to fit the size of wick you have, or make. Use the same procedure
for casting candles above. After the candles are cast and hardened put the
molds in vary hot water to loosen the wax from the mold. Remove the mold from
the water and using a wooden rod with an end on it that fits the full diameter
of the candle push the candle out of the mold and let cool. The ends of the
candle will be flat, but this is not a drawback in my mind.
The second way to make candles is by dipping them. This way is a little more
cumbersome [and time consuming] and I don’t recommend it. But if anyone
is interested in hand dipping candles, just Google the subject to learn how.
One more safety concern, never melt wax in your house and never on your kitchen
stove. Melted wax is highly flammable. A wax fire is almost impossible to put
out with water; it just spreads the fire over the kitchen and all over you,
and anyone that is with you at the time. Do not take this warning lightly.
I make candles outside away from any buildings on a nice summer day. - The
Old Yooper
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Letter Re: Lessons from the January Ice Storm
Jim:
The Ice Storm that just plastered Kentucky brought some reminders of just how
bad things can get and how being prepared - in advance - is critical. Within
a few hours, everything became coated with a half-inch to an inch of ice:
roads, cars, trees, power lines - everything. Throughout the night, we heard
crashes as our neighbor's trees lost massive limbs. We knew it was only a
matter of time before trees limbs (which are not properly trimmed back by
our utility company in an attempt to cut costs) collapsed on power lines
and caused widespread outages. In the morning, everything had turned to crystal.
About a quarter million people were without power in our county, but almost
everyone in the western half of the state had lost power.
Our county actually did a good job of plowing and salting roads. Unfortunately,
it didn't help as hundreds of traffic lights weren't working. Traffic was snarled
badly and travel times easily doubled. Hundreds of businesses are closed and
loosing money every day the power stays off. Looking for a generator at the
local big box home and garden center? Forget it, quickly sold out. Ice scrapers,
gone. Gas cans, gone. Driveway salt, gone. Snow shovels, gone. The sales guy
told me they weren't going to get restocked for the rest of the season.
My daughter called from the university she attends about a four hour drive
to the West. Their whole city was without power and water. The university asked
students
to leave, if possible, and those who couldn't were sheltered in the campus
auditorium. They didn't have any cots so you had to sleep on the floor or in
the auditorium chairs. She wanted me to come pick her up, so as I headed out
the next morning on a full tank of gas, my plan was to stop at each significant
town on the way to check their power and gas pumping status. Each stop was
the same as the next - dead. As I neared the half-way point on my gas gauge,
not one city on the way had electricity. It's as if a nuclear ice bomb had
been dropped on the state. I turned back.
It's amazing when you fully realize how dependent our society has become on
electricity. We are being told it will take up to 7 days to completely restore
service in our county, which is completely urban. Out in the rural areas, they
say it will be two weeks or more. Temperatures have been dropping into the
teens at night. Lots of people I know have no alternatives to heat their homes
or cook food. Fireplaces, like mine, are electrically controlled gas logs.
I can't even light it manually. I've learned a lesson: get
what you need before you need it. Get extra. I will be buying a dependable
generator once this crisis
passes. My next home will be better equipped with alternative sources of heat
and power. - J.S.
JWR Replies: Events like the recent ice storm underscore
the need to be self -sufficient: Think things through, and prepare systematically:
Wood or coal fired
stoves with a horizontal cook top. Kerosene lamps and plenty of fuel, a backup
power
generator,
again
with
plenty
of fuel. Extra stored fuel for your vehicle (which would have allowed you to
make that 8 hour round-trip). Often overlooked in winter is the need for a
backup water supply, and water filtration,
even
if it mean
melting
buckets
of snow--which
is
agonizingly
slow and laborious.
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The Community Retreat, by Kathy Harrison
Establishing a retreat seems to be the dream of many survivalists but realistically,
evacuating to a retreat is not a proposition that is readily available to very
many. There are generally problems with finances as well as family commitments
to contend with. Many folks, like me, have spent years in establishing perennial
food plants, compost piles, garden plots, building small businesses and, most
importantly, forging important community ties that would not be easily broken.
Therefore, we would be well advised to explore how to approach ways to turn
our own residences into retreat communities.
The location of the community is of the utmost importance. Pulling off such
a feat off in a large city or an affluent suburb would be pretty difficult.
A small town in a rural location with a high proportion of families who already
raise food and livestock is your best bet. Such a town is likely to have a
well-developed sense of community, strong family ties and a faith-based community.
You will also likely find a diverse set of necessary skills. Such communities
are generally located in areas that have climates suitable to growing food
crops. Hunting is often a part of the local culture so firearms ownership is
not seen as a problem. It has been my experience that a large number of survival-minded
folks find themselves living in this kind of locality. The question then becomes, “how
do we locate like-minded families and establish a network of support, with
possibility of barter arrangements and the sharing of skills and tools in such
towns?”
We began by attending a film series a few years ago. Free showings of films
such as The End of Suburbia, King Corn and Life At The
End Of The Empire were
shown. Each film was followed by a discussion group. Setting up this kind of
series can happen at a library or house of worship. Out of this format, a core
group formed, all with the sense that life as we knew it was unlikely to be
sustainable for the long term and that we needed to take steps to prepare for
the eventual change. We began meeting on a monthly basis. We are a diverse
group; some more interested in the implications of Peak
Oil, some with financial
collapse. Others are the local growers of organic produce and the breeders
of heritage breed livestock. We have no membership list, no rules of order,
no dues and no criteria for coming to our monthly meetings. We do follow a
loose agenda to ensure that we get some work20accomplished but much of our
time together is devoted to chit chat about current topics and sharing ideas.
One of our most successful endeavors has been our "101" classes. This
is a series of free workshops devoted to helping people learn valuable skills
from others.
We have had classes in raising chickens, canning produce, cheese making, mushroom
propagation, herbal medicine, knitting and many other subjects. The object
is to make all of us less dependant and share skills that might otherwise be
lost.
Recognizing that energy shortages are likely, we set up a panel of people already
alternative sources of energy. This was remarkably well-attended and led to
a day long event where folks opened their homes to people who wanted to see
each system in operation. We saw underground homes, photovoltaic systems, solar
heat collectors, wind powered homes and a couple of places that had been off-grid
for years. The tour ended with a pot-luck soup and bread dinner.
We consider helping each other as a given. We have helped each other get
in our winter wood supply, can an abundance of bulk purchased chicken and
traded
off tools, vehicles and equipment. When my husband scored some very inexpensive
sap buckets, he bought enough for many other group members. When I found
myself overwhelmed with peaches, three of us processed 50 quarts in an
afternoon.
A couple of us are really interested in wild foods. Together we gathered
fox grapes and put up 20 gallons of juice, harvested and dried over 100
pounds
of wild mushrooms and canned 35 quarts of wild applesauce. We are still eating
the fiddleheads we froze last May. Out latest project is to take a firearms
safety course together.
When a major ice storm left our town without power for over a week, we saw
an opportunity to check our preparedness level and hone our skills. Many
of us were also able to provide help and provisions to those who were less
prepared
including the elderly in our small town.
We still have work to do. We realize that we are not as well prepared for
medical emergencies as we would wish so some members are researching becoming
EMTs
and First Responders for our local volunteer fire department. We also see
the wisdom in becoming more involved in our town government.
I know this is not the kind of preparedness one generally reads about on
sites such as this but I think for many, this is the most realistic. Should
the worst
happen, we will be prepared to ride it out with friends and neighbors,
bonded together with common purpose and presenting a united front. - Kathy
Harrison
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Letter Re: Advice on Two-Way Radio Communications
Mr. Rawles,
I have read "Patriots," and am finishing up your ["Rawles
Gets You Ready"] preparedness course and I
have a question: What brand, or type of two-way communication do I look for.
I live in Kansas, about as far inland as we can go. I have several
family members in
the same small town and would like something that we all could communicate
with. Ready Made Resources recommends a GMRS system,
is that something to consider,
or are CBs
the answer?
I appreciate all that you post on your blog, consequently, I have just purchased
the "SurvivalBlog: The Best of the Blog" book to look back on what
I have missed since I started reading late last year. I have found your articles
to
be so
beneficial
to me
and have
recommended your site to others. Sincerely, - Thea
JWR Replies: I expect the Citizen's Band (CB) to be quite
crowded with "chatter" in the event of a widespread disaster. And
it will probably
remain crowded if the power
grid stays
up.
If you want a low-power system (assuming that you don't have a large PV battery
charging
system), I
would
recommend
MURS
band radios.
Inexpensive used MURS band handi-talkies are
available
from MURS Radios--one
of my advertisers. The MURS band radios have have comparable range to GMRS
band
radios, but the MURS band has far less traffic. (In many rural areas
the band
is essentially uninhabited.) Most transmissions in that band require no license.
If you want a higher-power
system, I would recommend buying using Marine Band radios
on
eBay. (There,
search
on "Marine Band Radio".) These do not require a license except
for "vessels over 65 feet in length". (But be advised that there are FCC restrictions on "inland" use. Reader Don K. mentioned that only radios that are "Type Accepted by the FCC for part 80 use may
transmit on radio frequencies in the Maritime Radio Services.
Equipment used for Land Stations must be specifically approved by the
FCC for this use; most shipboard equipment is not approved for Land
Station use. Fines by the FCC can be and usually are substantial.")
Since most Marine band radios draw
more current than a MURS handi-talkie, you will need a more capable backup
power system for battery
charging. I suggest
a
couple
of large 6 volt DC deep-cycle ("golf cart") type batteries for
each radio. The beauty of the MURS band and the VHF Marine
band is that they are both essentially "private
bands" in many areas. But of course don't consider them "secure",
since they
can still be detected and monitored with a multi-band scanner.
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Hurricane Lessons Learned and Some Advice on Getting Prepared, by Ken on the Gulf Coast
Sometimes it is not an option to relocate so you have to get prepared wherever
you are located. I am located on the Gulf Coast 60 short miles from New Orleans,
Louisiana. We were ground zero for Hurricane Katrina, so I have a first hand
experience of what can happen I will describe some things that I did right
and some things that I did wrong.
We were unable to relocate to a place like Idaho as we had elderly parents
who could not and probably would not relocate to a more appropriate survival
area.
My mother was born in 1930 the daughter of a sharecropper in the Louisiana
delta. They lived a survivor lifestyle as a matter of everyday life. She instilled
in me a fear of having absolutely nothing. Until her
death in 2007 she refused to run a dishwasher or air conditioner. She could
not bring herself to waste electricity, water, or anything for that matter.
She would not waste anything.
Although not as dedicated to thrift as my mother, I did inherit her fear of
hunger, and vulnerability to the unexpected. She died in fear of depression
era conditions returning. When she died I lost a valuable
source of survival information.
Because of my mother's influence, the day after Hurricane Katrina, we were
one out of 75,000 or so who had lights and running water 36 hours after the
storm. The following is what most people did wrong:
A lot of people had generators, the problem was that they only had a couple
of cans of gas. So they were all without power in less than 24 hrs. All of
the gas stations were disabled. No gas means no
power!
Nobody had enough food, they recommend three days, it took almost three days
just to get the roads clear.
No guns! I had friends who did not "believe in guns" that ended
up borrowing some weapons.
No dogs! Without dogs, you have no warning of intruders. Alarm
systems don't work after the batteries are dead.
The following is what I did right:
I had a natural gas generator installed. I was up and running less than 36
hours of the storm. It was also a mistake to select natural gas as a fuel source.
Upturned trees broke gas lines all over the region, it was only blind luck
that left me with gas pressure. A propane system would have been better.
I had drilled a water well. I was able to provide water pressure to my house,
city water was out for weeks. I tied the system back to the house by a simple
water hose going from a faucet on my pump to one on the house.
I had lights and water. Here is what I did wrong:
I evacuated the elderly mothers and dogs to an area 100+ miles north. Electricity
was out over the entire state, my motor home generator powered my sisters house
where I left our parents and dogs. I left the dogs at my bug out location before
I returned to the disaster area.
Mistake #1:
I sent my dogs elsewhere.
The other thing I was unprepared for were refugees. I call them refugees because
they would have gone hungry without the food in my pantry and freezers. I was
totally unprepared for the 16 families looking to me for
food and direction.
Some other things I did wrong:
I did not have enough food. I fed a lot of people. In a real end of life as
we know it scenario, I would have been forced to choose who I would have to
turn away. It's one thing to take care of people when you know help is on the
way, quite another when there is no help in sight.
Weapons: I loaned my old shotguns to all the people who did not believe in
the private ownership of guns. When gangs of illegal aliens and welfare recipients'
were roaming the streets, the folks who didn't believe in guns didn't hesitate
to request assistance.
I did not have a fuel source independent of the grid.
The following are changes that I have made:
I now have a Bluebird Bus motor home. It has a huge fuel tank that I can use
to run the house if the natural gas generator quits. It’s diesel generator
can put out 12 kw for a long time.
I have a much larger store of food.
I have a photovoltaically-powered water supply.
I have a bug out vehicle that has a 1,200 to 1,500 mile range. It has a propane
refrigerator. It has a water
system that can provide water pressure to my house.
I have dogs. In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, thieves were cranking up
lawn mowers and pushing them up next to running generators after the storm.
They would then shut down the running generators and leave the running lawn
mowers while they absconded with the generators. You cannot stay awake
24 hours a day. Dogs do not miss much if anything. I can’t recommend
a breed of dog, but the following work for me: Miniature Schnauzers, Australian
shepherds, Catahoula Curs. If you live in the south and have some land you
cannot beat a Catahoula Cur. An Australian Sheppard is a close second for all
climates.
I have ten acres and good soil, I am putting in a very large garden. However,
I do not feel that I can overcome the huge welfare population we have here,
If things get out of hand, I plan to bug out. I now have an RV that has a tremendous range. It has a propane refrigerator, and full facilities.
I can literally live on the side of the road for weeks or months. It is equipped
to pull a full-size 4WD with
trailer. I have several bug out locations within four hours where I can evacuate
to. When I leave I will have dogs, food, tools,
and arms. I also have shortwave radios.
You have to develop a survival mentality,
you have to add to your preparation everyday. Each trip to Wal-Mart is an
opportunity to add to your supplies. The one thing I learned is that when the
storm hits,
its too late to think about being prepared. You have to think: if
a disaster strikes, how long can you feed and protect your family? I add
to my provisions
every day.
Start to prepare now. Think: food, food, and more food,
ammo, bandages, and unless you can
go without sleep 24 hours a day don't forget the dogs!
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Letter Re: Red Dot Sight Battery Longevity
JWR,
I have a red dot sight battery, lithium Energizer CR2032, which was
stored in it's original packaging in a refrigerator since May 1996, almost
13 years
ago. I recently opened it and have been testing to see if it would still work,
at present I have about 11 hours of use on it. I know this is anecdotal, but
the point is, if you use red dot aiming devices and it uses one of these type
batteries, it is probably worthwhile to store a good supply of batteries for
long term use. Regards, - K. in Texas
JWR Replies: Lithium batteries should be stored in a refrigerator.
But reader Shirley A.--who is an audiologist--mentioned that this is a
bad idea for zinc air batteries. She notes: "...do not store zinc
air batteries in the
refrigerator.
The
batteries are inert until the tab is removed. Once air reaches the hole(s)
on the back of the batteries, they become activated, hence "air-activated" batteries.
The humidity in a refrigerator will cause the protective tabs to become loose,
thus allowing air to reach the holes and activating the batteries.They will
all go dead in a short time. Zinc air batteries should be stored in a cool,
dry environment, like a dresser drawer. For the same reason, don't store your
batteries
(or your hearing aids) in the bathroom."
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Field Gear on a Shoestring Budget: Ten Project Examples, by George S. »
Letter Re: Advice on Storing and Recharging Hearing Aid Batteries
JWR,
Thank you so very much for what you do! Your blog is the best resource
on the net for preparedness info, news and views that I know of! My 8 year
old daughter wears hearing aids in both ears,. How long can I reasonably expect
hearing aid
batteries to store? In the event of TEOTWAWKI, I would be
heartbroken to see my little girl unable to utilize one of our most precious
senses. I imagine many elderly folks may have the same problem. What a very
dangerous predicament to be in, the world falling apart, and you can't even
detect someone speaking to you, or creeping up behind you...
Any info will be greatly appreciated, once again thanks! - Matt C.in Northern
Ohio
JWR Replies: You probably missed the link in SurvivalBlog
a few months ago for a clever little
photovoltaic
button battery charger. Buy two or three of them. And of course buy a four
year supply of batteries, and store them in your refrigerator. Rotate your supply
religiously, using the FIFO method,
once established.
« Letter Re: Precipitation and Growing Season as Retreat Locale Criteria |Main| Letter Re: Observations on Preparedness from a Gulf Coast Hurricane Veteran »
Letter Re: Field Test with a MURS Band Dakota Alert Intrusion Detection System
James;
I just recently purchased a MURS band Dakota Alert and Radio setup from [MURS
Radio] that advertises
on your site. Needless to say I got a screaming deal! I live in the
Pacific
Northwest, literally in the middle of dense woods. My radios and sensors arrived
during one of the best snowfalls we have had in a while. All of the trees were
loaded [with snow]. The temperature was in the very low 20s. Our terrain is
mountainous.
Here are my results (which may be helpful to your readers who may be thinking
about purchasing them):
[Dakota
Alert MAT] Sensors: Solid
transmission to Base station (located in a metal building) at 3/4 mile. Longer
range not tested (It was cold, and I did
not require longer range.)
Hand held transceivers [handi-talkies (HTs),
[also made by Dakota Alert] to and from base station, solid to 1/2 mile,
sketchy at 3/4 mile.
Sensors to HT solid transmission to 1/2 mile sketchy at 3/4 mile.
HT to HT solid at 1/2 mile sketchy at 3/4 mile.
Problems:
The sensor does not have enough transmission time to finish the third [repetition
of the] "Alert
Zone 2" message due to [an error in] the speed of the person recording
the message. I contacted the manufacturer about it, and they said that all
their current units are all
this way. No one wants to be #2. (All other alert messages are fine) This is
not
a problem, but one does have to chuckle.
A cold vehicle (just started) dose not always activate the sensors. This is
not a tactical problem but is an annoyance.
Suggestions:
BNC connectors and pull up antennas are leaky. In addition to the manufactures
suggestion to add a packet of desiccant inside the sensors, I highly suggest
wrapping the BNC connection
and each segment joint of the antenna with COAX-SEAL.(A
hand moldable plastic.) This will insure total water proofing of the unit.
I plan on disguising my
[chromed,
collapsible] antennas by covering them
with gray heat shrink [tubing] and a little magic marker action, then sealing
the BNC with
coax
seal.
Since I live off the grid It makes no sense to run the base station (which
is 12 Volt DC) off my inverter. I wired it up to my 12V distribution network
that I use for all my comm devices Ham, CB,
etc. Just to play it safe I contacted the manufacturer about the maximum voltage
the unit could handle as I charge
my batteries at 14.4V. They recommended some sort of voltage regulation device.
You could "fab"one
up or as they suggested, use a [voltage] regulating cigarette lighter plug.
They said the unit would function at the higher voltage
but it would be hard on it, and reduce it's life expectancy.
The only drawback is that there are only four alert messages, limiting the
number of sensors you can use at one time. If you need more than four sensors
you will
need a second receiver. I plan on calling the manufacturer and suggesting a "record
your own message" modification. I am totally pleased with these
units. Thanks for listing them. - John
JWR Replies: Thanks for the review. Here at the Rawles
Ranch, we also
use MURS band
Dakota Alert transmitters in conjunction with some gently-used Kenwood transceivers.
We bought all of these components
from MURS
Radio. Programming the transmitters to match our MURS frequency was quick
and easy. We
have
been
very
pleased
with
their
sensitivity and reliability. These are great products that provide a low-cost
solution for
detecting
anyone
entering our property.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: It's a Scary World Out There: Fearsome Attack Hens »
Six Letters Re: Home Invasion Robbery Countermeasures--Your Mindset and Architecture
Greetings Mr. Rawles,
I read your blog everyday and am learning so much. Thanks for your dedication
to helping prepare us for the future.
In reference to the recent article on home security, we lived in Argentina
for three years and we could all learn from their security measures. The first
house we lived in had steel shutters, as did everyone in the neighborhood,
and they were all shut at night. The doors have locks that automatically lock
when you leave the house. The small front yards usually have tall steel fences
with the same height gates. The gates were also locked at all times. Homes
that didn't have shutters of some kind, had bars on all the windows. Big dogs
were also the norm. The back yards were usually walled in by concrete block
walls sometimes 10 feet tall. At our second house, one of our neighbors had
concertina wire around the top of their walls.
It is a normal custom to clap your hands to alert someone you were at their
front gate. It would be very rude to try to enter someone's front yard without
being invited first, and is usually not possible due to the locks and dogs.
But, as new houses were being built, we were seeing less and less of the shutters
and bars, more American style houses were being built and that's a shame.
It was very difficult at first to live with these kinds of security measures,
but after awhile it became normal and comforting to know your house was secure.
Gun control is very strict and very few folks have guns, so home security was
very important.
Just wanted to share those observations with you. Thanks again for your hard
work.
Warmest Regards, - Beverly A.
Hello James Wesley, Rawles:
Feed lot panels are extremely useful for hardening windows against dynamic
entry.
For those who are not familiar with the product, feed lot panels are welded
wire product. They are typically 16 feet long. The height varies but is typically
54" high. The wire is very stiff (typically #4 or #6 gauge) and the wire
is galvanized for long life. The panels are inexpensive and semi-rigid.
We recently replaced a 13' x 69" bay window with a 60" by 60" picture
window (one pane) flanked by a couple of 60" high by 24" wide double
hung windows. Our primary goal was to increase energy efficiency by reducing
cold air infiltration during the winter and to improve our cross ventilation
during
the summer.
I had some fairly extensive conversation with the contractor regarding my desire
to have sufficient "beef" beside each window to be able to run several
5" x 1/2" eye-bolts beside each window (with the eyes of the bolts
aligned in the vertical direction), slide the trimmed-to-fit feedlot panel
over the eye-bolts, and then drop a cane bolt through the openings in the eye
bolts.
(Minor detail notes: Roof overhang requires that cane bolts be inserted from
bottom, but "drop in from top" is a more natural word picture. Also
desirable to use a cushioning material to hold panels away from frame of window
to eliminate scarring. Rubber or vinyl garden hose is a possibility.)
He was very happy to comply. Each window is framed in with 2x4s next to the
window frame, but then a 4x4 was bracketed into the top and bottom headers
immediately beside the 2X4s on each side of each of the three windows. Wood
is cheap.
Feed lot panels can be defeated. But defeating them requires time and tools...not
something typical home invaders want to expend/lug around. Feed lot panels
also help protect windows against airborne, flying trash during extreme wind
storms. They may be ugly, but they are cheap, durable and relatively easy
to install, given proper tools and some time and the foresight to have enough
wood to bolt into. - Joe H.
Jim,
I've already made numerous changes to my home and
property to thwart / limit any would be thefts and boosting the overall
security. A number of
ideas
came from your web site. Thanks.
Other than the simple measures of installing a Radio Shack microphone/speaker
and, locking the doors of my barns with snap links and walking out the front
and locking that door, I am worried for my horses if someone should try to
force their way inside and manage to stay very quiet. I'm very impressed
with my $149 Radio Shack investment, you can hear everything and my house
is 300
feet away.
Can you offer any additional advice on making barns more secure? I'm more
concerned about the horses than all of the tack and saddles. But those items
aren't cheap
either. Thanks, - Pete in Florida
JWR Replies: I do have one specific recommendation: Buy a
MURS band Dakota Alert infrared intrusion detection system. (Available from MURS
Radio, one of
our advertisers). Put one Motion Alert Transmitter (MAT) out
at the end of your driveway,
and one "watching" the front of your barn door. We
use Dakota Alerts in conjunction with matching frequency Kenwood MURS band
hand-helds here at the Rawles
Ranch on a daily basis. We have been very satisfied with their
quality and reliability. In our experience, this combination is ideal for detecting
intruders on likely avenues
of approach.
.
Dear Mr. Rawles,
First, as always, I am compelled to thank you for your service to all those
who would learn from your knowledge and efforts. My 2009 10
Cent Challenge contribution is forthcoming,
but it is only a small token of my appreciation in light of all that I have
learned from your excellent blog.
I wanted to add a note of my reality to your recent excellent comments on the
sorry state of home architecture in our country today. I live in a typical
recent-construction, middle class, Metro Atlanta home with a brick front facade,
and Hardiplank (a concrete-like product molded to look like wood siding) on
the remaining three sides. It is essentially three stories, with a "daylight
basement" comprising the first story. Many of the "weak links" that
you pointed out exist in my home, but we did install a fairly comprehensive
alarm system.
Last February, while my wife was at work and I was taking my son to daycare
(it was 11:15 a.m.), thugs broke into our house by kicking through the basement
wall! Evidently, the crooks suspected, or noticed, our alarm system, and tried
to bypass it by going through the wall. It would have worked if the dummies
hadn't opened the basement door preparing to depart with their loot. Of course,
opening the door set the alarm off, and they fled never having made it out
of the basement. They did steal an old rifle that I had recently bought, and
had left in a storage closet awaiting a good cleaning. All in all, we were
very fortunate.
I write not to simply share my story (which is, unfortunately, not very uncommon),
but to point out what I learned:
1. Though Hardiplank, and similar products, have many virtues, resistance to
invasion is not one of them.The concrete feel and appearance gives a false
sense of security. I was shocked to learn that the only thing between my "inner
sanctum" and the bad guys was the Hardiplank, fiberboard sheathing, and
drywall! Even if your 1st story sheathing were 5/8" plywood it would present
a much more formidable barrier!
2. If I had heeded my instincts, the burglary could have been avoided. I try
to live in "condition yellow", though I slip into white more than
I would like. That morning, while buckling my toddler into the car, I noticed
a rough-looking young man walking slowly up the sidewalk. By the time I had
buckled my seatbelt, he was ambling back down the street in the opposite direction.
All of the alarms in my head went off, but I didn't call the police to investigate
(something that they encouraged me to do in the future while discussing the
event). I did, however, step back inside and turn on the alarm, which I didn't
usually do for such short trips (things are different now). If I hadn't turned
on the alarm, I would have probably walked right into a home invasion in progress
(stupidly in condition white!) after dropping my son off. As it was, as soon
as I got the call from the monitoring service, I knew exactly what had happened,
and who had done it! During the frantic 3 mile drive home, my main concern
was, "what will I do if I arrive before the police?" At the time,
I had no firearm with me, which leads me to my final point.
3. Any time you walk into your home [after an absence] in condition white,
with no way to defend yourself, you invite disaster. Yes, I know it can be
terribly
stressful
to
admit to yourself that our society has "come to this", and some people
would rather just play the odds and hope it doesn't happen to them. I feel
that God was watching over me that day (by the way, the police were on site
when I got home - it had only been 20 minutes since I left the house) and gave
me a second chance. I guess I could remain in condition white, and hope it
doesn't happen again, but I have responsibilities. God gave me a second chance,
and I am committed to learning from this experience. You'd better believe that
I will arrive home in condition yellow to orange, looking for any hint that
something is awry - especially if my family is in tow! Oh yeah, and my next
house is going to be as solid as I can afford, and then some!
I hope you and yours had a wonderful Christmas, and will have a terrific new
year. Best Wishes, - SH in Georgia
James;
I have been an advocate for survivors of violent crimes. I would like
to point out some things that I have been tracking for almost a year now. (I
have 'home invasions" as a google search alert and get messages on this
topic many times a day). First, I have noticed that most of these invaders
are not so much interested in carting away ill-gotten booty from the residence
that they have invaded as much as the first object is to terrorize and torture
those in the dwelling. This is a major change in the high level of deprived
violence of these burglars who are now being reported as "home invaders".
The attacks are sadistic, whereas, twenty years ago true sadistic attacks
were more rare as the goal seemed to be to steal and leave. Second, these sadistic
home invasions are world wide. I have not yet figured out why this is so. It
is, however, concerning that no place seems safe from this bizarre rise in
sadistic violence. Perhaps it can be linked to violent video games? I am not
sure what else could link these acts world wide. Third, unlike violent home
crimes in years past, the home invaders are attacking during the hours when
it is more likely that the residents are home. (Most of these
invasions seem to take place between 11 PM and 5 AM). Clearly, unlike in early
times when
the criminal element wanted to avoid the residents, this new class of thugs
want that violent encounter.
I think this does require that decent folks to have a change in understanding
what is taking place. These criminals are not just getting the pleasure of
taking your property but they want to cause you and your family extreme fear,
terror, and pain. Passive conduct by the victims that might have allowed these
thugs to rob your home and leave you alone might have worked twenty years ago,
but I think today's home invaders first literally will want a pound of your
flesh. On a positive note, I have also read of numerous residents who have
successfully fended off the invaders by being properly protected within their
homes. I am 'surprised" that the media doesn't seem to do much coverage
of these heroic deeds of the victim defending himself or family members from
these sadistic invasion. - Advocate for Survivors
of Violent Crimes
Dear Mr. Rawles.
Regarding your post on Tuesday December 30, titled "Letter Re: Home
Invasion Robbery Countermeasures". I would like to see you elaborate on
the "Countermeasures" portion of the title. Specifically, could you
show some real examples that people could use as "force multipliers" similar
to this . Maybe you can do a post on with and without grid power in SHTF scenarios.
For example I live in a suburb of a city of about 80,000 people. I live on
a corner lot and have a fenced in back yard. What low-tech methods could I
deploy
to
allow full coverage around the perimeter of my property to signal of coming
trouble. It would help if the ideas were designed to not create an abundance
of false alarms and not alert the surrounding neighborhoods like a trip alarm.
I don't have a retreat location but I'm getting my finances in order to allow
a property purchase soon. If TSHTF tomorrow, I would need some simple ideas
to keep my family safe as long as possible.
BTW, I read your "Patriots" novel
and it was awesome! I am about half way thorough your "Rawles
Gets You Ready" course and it too
is great. Thanks, - Steve F. in Louisiana
JWR Replies: A corner lot is problematic. Depending on the
landscaping that is prevalent in your neighborhood, if it would not look
too out of the ordinary then you might consider planting a
"decorative" thorny hedge around as much of your perimeter as
possible, and install a
gate across the front of your driveway. Make both the
maximum height that you can get away with,
without being branded as the Neighborhood Paranoid Poster Boy. The gate should
have a spiked top of some sort, to discourage gate jumpers. Just inside the
gate, position a passive infrared Motion Alert Transmitter (MAT) for a Dakota
Alert. You should also plant thorny
bushes below each of your windows.
Motion-activated floodlights are inexpensive and very easy to install.(They
are available at home improvement and hardware stores such as Home Depot and
Lowe's.) If the power grid goes down, you really should bug out ASAP, but if
you are forced to stay, then solar-powered floodlights might
suffice. (But note that their reviews mention that they have a short service
life. So it is best to just test them but not mount them outdoors until needed.)
Under those circumstances, a pair of night vision goggles would be a must.
(And if you have those, you might want to retrofit your floodlights to use
infrared bulbs. Being battery
powered, your
Dakota
Alert
system
will
continue
to
operate without grid power.
But
of
course keep plenty of spare batteries on had for all of your flashlights
and other home security and communications electronics.
« "Little House" Books--A Great Homeschooling and Preparedness Mindset Resource |Main| Mobile Choices for Survival Retreats by T.D. »
Letter Re: The Recent Storm in New England--A Ready and Able Family
Hi Jim.
I have been a long time reader of your blog and have spent quite a
bit of money with many of your terrific advertisers. I am writing to tell you
about the serenity of my day in the midst of the hard hitting ice storm up
here in New England. Thanks to the information you present in your blog and
the preparation that I have taken over the last few years, all I had to do
to prepare for this storm the day before was two things - fill the fire wood
box and fill the bath tub for toilet flushing water.
I already had food stocked up. I had drinking water available. I had heat via
a wood stove. I had a generator. I had plenty of fuel for the generator. (I
was even able to loan a spare generator and fuel out to a friend.) I had fresh
batteries for the flashlight and radios. I had a scanner to listen to all the
emergency calls in the area. (You will realize how under-prepared your neighbors
are by all the assistance calls.) I had plenty of alternative lighting (candles
and LED lights). I had sufficient quantities of ice melt and sand on hand.
The great thing was that I wasn't stressed out before, during or after the
storm. My family mentioned over and over how terrific it was to be prepped.
I was fortunate that they were on the "let's get prepped" band wagon
with me over the last few years. I got to enjoy the ice sculptures of the day
and was able to help out someone else, too. The simple fact of all this is
that by being prepared you get to relax a bit during a potentially stressful
time. This wasn't an end of the world scenario but nonetheless the preparation
was almost the same. Being prepped for any emergency isn't
that hard to do and the resources you collect over time are useful in nearly
any condition.
It was actually a bit fun to see all this preparation fall nicely into place.
Thanks for all you do! - Relaxed in New England
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Food Items in Non-Food Grade Buckets? »
Letter Re: Some Disaster Preparedness Information for Asthmatics
Hi Mr. Rawles,
My son has asthma and I have had the unfortunate experience of not having power
when he needed a nebulizer treatment. Please inform you readers of the absolute
necessity of having power inverters and testing your needed appliances before
an emergency. Not knowing how sensitive a medical nebulizer is and knowing
that some equipment is sensitive to modified sine wave power from the cheaper
inverters was terrifying. Having the power out and an asthma attack at the
same time was bad enough.The prayer that I said when turning on our only
nebulizer plugged into a gizmo (my wife's word, not mine) that was attached
to a car running in the driveway with jumper cables was unique to say the
least.
Buy good inverters and test [them with your various electrical and electronic
equipment] before the
storm.
I now have several and we insist on our young drivers keeping their cars full
of gas.
My point in writing you was to inform your readers that everything in their
house can be ran in a emergency. Nebulizers are not very power hungry and can
be run with very inexpensive equipment. - GB
« Letter Re: Combat Conditioning Fitness Training |Main| Getting Your Loved Ones on Board with Preparedness »
Letter Re: Some Disaster Preparedness Information for Asthmatics
Dear JWR
I am fairly new to prepping but as a lifelong asthma patient I quickly realized
that I cannot depend solely on my current nebulizer WTSHTF.
This is because it plugs into a wall and does not have any other alternative
way to work when
the grid
goes down. When I did some research, however, I found a beautiful thing.
There are now handheld nebulizers that have both AC and
and DC car
adapter abilities as well as a rechargeable [gel cell] battery. They cost around
$200 or slightly
more but I can tell you that this is a bargain compared to dying of an asthma
attack because there was no power and the hospital is not an option for one
reason or another. For other people who will want to do this kind of prep for
themselves or family members with asthma a prescription is required for the
medicine and also the nebulizer.
The most common issue though is to acquire this unit, it seems to be on backorder
from most of the local places I have tried. So for preppers
I advise start the process now if you need one of these. I was just
told today by one company that they haven't yet received their order that was
placed in August .
Respectfully, - SKT
JWR Replies: This is a similar requirement than the CPAP machines
needed by some folks with sleep apnea. (This
has been discussed previously in SurvivalBlog,.,and elaborated on further
in a
subsequent letter about refrigeration for insulin.) Thankfully, most nebulizers
have fairly modest current requirements.
« Letter Re: SurvivalBlog is a Money Saver |Main| The Practice Load-Up, by Papa Papa »
Letter Re: Advice on an Inexpensive Solar Battery Charger?
Hi Mr. Rawles:
In your comments to the family living in Trinidad & Tobago, you wrote: "As
your budget allows, buy a small solar charger for your AA and AAA NiMH batteries."
Do you have personal experience with any of these solar chargers? Can you recommend
any? Many thanks, - Larry T.
JWR Replies: Depending on your budget, solutions can run from "micro",
to "mini", to "maxi." These
inexpensive solar chargers sold by Ready Made Resources (one of our long-time
advertisers) work fine as a "micro" solution., but be advised that
they are not waterproof. I recommend setting these up on a windowsill, inside a
south-facing window. In my experience, it is best to buy at least two of these
chargers, since they charge slowly, via "trickle charging".
Moving up to the "mini" solution, there are these
6.5 watt flexible (amorphous), photovoltaic (PV) panels. Even modest-size
PV systems with a small deep cycle battery bank can make a huge difference
in providing small scale lighting and battery charging for crucial security
measures such
as
radios
and night vision equipment. There are so many LED lights, battery
charging trays, and various pieces of electronic gear available that will
run directly from 12 VDC or from a DC-to-DC
converter, that you might be able to skip the expense of a full-up system
with a large AC inverter.
If you have a bigger budget, Ready Made Resources (RMR) and other vendors
can also supply larger
pre-packaged PV power systems, either with or without an AC power inverter.
(Without an inverter, they will provide only 12 volt or 24 volt DC power.)
RMR even has experience designing "maxi" systems--6
KW or larger.
(BTW, they offer free alternate energy system design and consulting.)
Keep in mind that starting January 1st, grid-tied
PV systems will be eligible for a 30% Federal tax credit in the US. Many
states also offer their own tax credits. In some states such as Florida
and California, the combined Federal and state tax credits may reduce your
expense by as much as 70%, when all is said and done.
« Letter Re: UCLA's Eye-Opening Colloquium on the Worldwide Financial and Economic Crisis |Main| The MOAB Keeps Growing, and Growing »
Letter Re: Finding Abandoned Properties, Post-TEOTWAWKI?
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I recently became a fan of your blog and wanted to commend
you for your work in educating the masses. While I don't have a retreat, I'm
using a different
strategy and hope for your input. I live in western Maryland. Historically
we are fairly disaster-proof from natural disasters enjoy all four seasons.
My plan is to prepare (as best we can here) and after a disaster, claim a better
vacant property.
Two other thoughts: I recently purchased David Blume's book "Alcohol
Can Be a Gas" and intend to fuel my own flex fuel vehicles and have
a barter tool. Secondly, I'm trying to rig some way to attach a bicycle to
a generator
and store energy and provide exercise for my family - Thanks, Mark W.
JWR Replies: I regularly get e-mails like yours, mostly from
preppers on tight budgets that have hopes of finding "abandoned" properties.
It would take an incredible "worst case" situation with massive de-population
before properties would be totally abandoned. A vacant property still has an
owner--or at least has heirs of a deceased owner. And unless government totally disappears
in some anarchic spasm (which is highly unlikely outside the Horn of Africa),
there would still be due process and the normal legalities of properties being
seized for property tax delinquency, and then being sold at auction to the
highest bidder. Science fiction novelist Robert A. Heinlein said it best: There
ain't no such thing as a free lunch (TANSTAAFL).
I recommend that you plan more realistically. You can prepare on a modest budget
by teaming
up with like-minded people in your area and buying contiguous parcels in
a covenant community to provide a local bartering base and mutual security.
Abandoned properties are more the stuff of daydreams than reality. But given
the continuing collapse of the United States real estate market, who knows?
There may be some very inexpensive foreclosed or even tax
delinquent parcels available at auction in rural areas in just a couple of
years.
There are several brand of bike generator stands on the market, including
the
U-Gen.
« Letter Re: Deflation Possibly Followed by Mass Inflation? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: A Suggested Checklist for Preparedness Newbies
Here's a beginner's list I made for my [elderly] father today:
Food
{Brown pearl] rice does not store well. Neither does cooking oil so that needs to be fresh.
No, Crisco doesn't count.
Coconut oil would be your best bet.
Wheat berries - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Beans - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Mylar bags
Spices
Salt
Country Living grain mill
propane tanks, small stove and hoses to connect
freeze dried fruits, vegetables, eggs and meat if you can find them.
Water
500 gallons
of water [storage capacity. Rainwater catchment is a common practice
in Hawaii]
Water filter
Cooking
Cast Iron Cookware
Firearms
FN PS 90
10 PS 90 magazines
5.7 handgun
10 FN 5.7 handgun magazines
5.7 ammo
Training: Front Sight four day defensive
handgun course. (Note: eBay sometimes has
course certificates for $100!)
Body armor: Nick at BulletProofME.com
Medical
Personal medications
Augmentin antibiotic
Up to date dental work
Painkillers
Bandages
Iodine
Anti-fungal spray
Finances
$10,000 cash in small bills
100 one-ounce silver coins (GoldDealer.com or Tulving.com)
Transport
Gasoline in 5 gallon cans or better yet, this.
Gas stabilizer
Mountain bikes
Air pump
Miscellany
Flashlights
Rechargeable Batteries
Battery
charger
Hand held walkie talkies
Topographical map of your area
Spare eyeglasses
Shortwave radio
Home generated power
12 volt battery system
Good backpack
Good knife
Good compass
Good shoes
Bar soap
Toothbrushes
Dental floss
Toilet paper
Fishing kit
Salt licks
Connibear traps
Regards, - SF in Hawaii
JWR Adds: The following is based on the assumption that SF's
father also lives in Hawaii: Because of the 10 round magazine limit for handguns,
I recommend that Hawaiians purchase only large
bore
handguns for self defense--such
as .45
ACP.
Both the
Springfield
Armory XD .45 Compact or the Glock Model 30 would both be good choices. The "high
capacity" advantage of smaller caliber
handguns
is not available to civilians in Hawaii, so you might as well get a more potent
man stopper, given the arbitrary 10 round limitation.
« Letter Re: When Unprepared Folks Show Up on Your Doorstep |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Adapt to Survive, by Elizabeth B.
You are incredibly mistaken if you think you can store up enough to see you
through bad times. You are wrong, dead wrong. When I say store up, I’m
talking, food, provisions, tools, barter equipment, and whatever.
The key to survival will be adaptation, just like in nature. Those who survive
will be those who can readily adapt to a changing environment. I know many
of you are sitting on little mountains of barrels, cans, packages and feel
like you have an edge. Simply put, you will not be able to squirrel away enough.
What happens when the stash runs out?
I was shocked to read this week (October 31, 2008) when a SurvivalBlog reader
wrote:
“Is there a good book that you can recommend on food storage for someone
like me that is on a budget and wants to "do it myself”, but not go
so far as ‘grow it myself?’ ”
How long will the bad times last? Who knows? What will you do when the stash
runs out? Barter those silver and gold coins that no one can eat?
Survival skills depend on knowledge and practice. If you have children, take
them out of soccer and dance classes and immediately put them in Girl Scouts
or Boy Scouts. Look until you find a good troop or better yet, join up, take
the required training, and begin your own troop. You will influence more lives
than you can possibly imagine. You and your children will have outdoor living
experiences that will see them through the rest of their lives. Did you ever
cook your food over a wood campfire and lie on the ground scanning the night
sky for meteors with the smell of smoke and coyote yelps lingering in the air?
Scout troops teach children community living and cooperation, both critical
survival skills.
Read everything you can until you become familiar with survival concepts and
theory. Then you need to begin to practice, practicing daily. First of all,
move out of your apartment into a house. If you can’t afford to buy,
then you shouldn’t be storing food. Rent if you can’t buy. You
don’t have enough room to practice and store your supplies in an apartment,
no matter what anyone says.
Here is a short list of skills you and your loved ones need:
* Water: Harvesting, storage, filtration, sterilization
* Gardening: How to plant, save and store seed, make soil, propagate.
* Fire: Get rid of that propane tank and charcoal briquettes, practice
fire-starting
with a variety of materials that you find. Build many types of fires. Accumulate
a couple of iron items such as a good grill or tripod, dutch oven, lifters,
and work gloves … learn how to cook over coals, on a plank, in a box oven,
in a trench, in a hay box, in a tin can, in a rocket stove…know how to
dry and smoke … know how to build a fire anywhere on any surface and how
to improvise safe surfaces. Buy as many matches as you can. Matches are an excellent
storage item. They’ll never go bad and will be a high demand item.
* Shelter: Practice making shelters from as many materials you find on
hand for a variety of conditions. Sleep outside in different weather as
often as you can. You’ll grow to love it and will discover the night
sky.
* Solar cooking. Make solar cookers from boxes, aluminum foil, glass jars. Practice,
practice, practice throughout the changing seasons
* Tools: Know how to clean, sharpen, store tools; get very familiar with
your ax and saw and hammer and pliers. Feel free to stock up on nails and screws
and wire.
* Cooking: Unfortunately, the current generation of young adults really
knows practically nothing about tasty and thrifty food preparation. This is easily
remedied. You eat multiple times a day. Look on each meal as a practice event.
If you have children, shut down the smorgasbord of choices for each picky eater.
Everyone needs to know how to eat beans and rice with a few additions such as
meat for flavoring, herbs and spices to make each meal new and palatable. Make
soup a daily fare. It won’t matter if you have thousands of dollars of
food stored if it is not familiar foods that people enjoy. There is no SPAM or
tuna in my storage. I won’t eat SPAM, and I’m morally opposed to
eating tuna due to depletion of our oceans and crashing fish populations. Learn
to eat more simply now, today. Eat each meal at home, don’t eat out. Practice
serving vegetarian meals at least once a day. Terrific cookbooks like Apocalypse
Chow and Backpacker's Recipes can point you in the right direction.
Can
you
bake
bread in a dutch oven? Can you make pasta with wheat and a pasta machine?
* Food. I saved this topic for last because it is so huge. First, buy some sturdy
gardening tools from Craig's
List. The older ones are better. Read up, talk
to gardeners, go to free community gardening events, and begin now, yesterday
was already getting very, very late to learn this skill. Food is going to be
much more important than just stashing and hoarding. Real freedom comes from
being
responsible for your own food. When you are out of the apartment, you’ll
be able to prepare for your chickens. True, you might not be able to house them
right now due to city or HOA regulations,
but the time will come. Be ready for your little chicks and their fabulous eggs.
You need to plant fruit trees specific
to your zone which will thrive. It takes three years or so for fruit production.
In my incredibly tiny area I have pomegranate, olive, apples, figs, blackberry,
strawberries, and bananas. Look on every square inch of your yard as an opportunity
for food supply. Practice container gardening -- you never know. Composting and
mulching cannot be overstated or overlooked. You should never throw another scrap
of fruit or vegetable away again. Get a dog for the other food scraps, friendship,
and protection. Invite wild birds into your garden. Learn what the sun requirements
are for specific plants and what your garden can supply. Include edible native
plants that you know you can serve in a pinch. I have mesquite, roses, cacti,
lilies, and edible flowers. Learn to eat a huge variety of foods. Learn to prepare
a huge variety of tasty foods. This will truly be the key to survival in the
future. My Great Depression-era father thought that pickled pig’s feet,
cornbread crumbled into buttermilk, pinto beans with cornbread, and greens were
some of
life’s greatest pleasures. Picky eaters will not be survivors. Complainers
will not be survivors.
Finally, forget the batteries. They won’t last forever and you can’t
buy/store enough for the rest of your life. You are contributing to the toxic
waste stream by buying batteries. If you just insist on having a flashlight,
then go buy a case of Faraday
flashlights that work on the principal of magnetic
induction. A radio is actually a terrific idea. Get a hand crank dynamo or solar
radio. Like I said, ditch the battery idea. Prepare to adapt to a new life. [JWR
Adds: Be warned that most of the Chinese-made "dynamo" hand crank radios
on
the
market
are
very flimsy and
are unlikely to last more than a month of daily use. I recommend the BayGen
radios,
made
in South Africa. They are built to last.]
Critical issues such as waste removal, weapons, spirituality, residual recycling,
and community need to be in the back of your mind, but that is for another essay.
As you reach for an item in the store, ask yourself this question: What if I
could not buy this today or ever again, would I miss it? What could I use instead?
Can I do without this today and forever? Rethink your lifestyle and prepare for
another test of adaptability that may be thrown at humanity. Throughout time,
we have been tested whether it has been by ice ages, wars, famine, or plague.
If you can adapt, you can survive.
I’m only speaking in generalities because it is up to you to adapt to
survive. You need to find out the information for yourself and think of new ways
to live.
Survival is not only about surviving, it is about living and enjoying life. It’s
impossible to teach someone everything there is to know, at some point you have
to depend on yourself. Check YouTube.com for endless videos on any subject in
the world. I’ve improved my vegetable growing methods by learning from
experts on YouTube. In the end, your existence will depend on your own mind
and your own heart and your own hands.
[JWR Adds: While Elizabeth has made some excellent points,
she has overstated her case for adaptation. There
are some critical uses for both propane tanks and rechargeable batteries that
justify their inclusion
in preparedness
planning.
Granted, they represent finite supplies. But I'd rather have them in
reserve for a critical situation and not need them. The inverse is not appealing.
(Needing them, but not having them.) Imagine if you needed to conduct impromptu
surgery. Would you prefer to perform a surgery by the light of fat oil lamps?
I disagree with her assertion about not storing extra tools. Tools will be
worth their weight in gold. A lot of things can be improvised and adapted,
but high
quality tools--especially those
with
tight
tolerances cannot. You
can probably improvise a plow, but you cannot improvise a Unimat lathe. And
consider this: With a Unimat lathe (in properly trained hands) and
given enough high speed steel stock you can build just about any tool
including
another Unimat lathe. Thus
a "stored" tool can be eminently useful for "adaptation."
Lastly, keep in mind that preparing to survive in a warm southwestern climate
is considerably different than in cloudy, cold northern climes. The colder
the
climate, the
deeper the larder that you'll need. (Since growing seasons are short, and in
some years with early frosts you will have hardly any garden yield. Stored
fuel (firewood, coal, et cetera) is similarly important in cold climates.
There may
come a
year when you cannot cut a fresh supply of firewood--say you break a leg or
have a major illness. That is why it is very important to have several years
worth of firewood on hand.]
« Letter Re: Suddenly Homeless on the Potomac--Some Preparedness Lessons Learned |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Good Compsec Practices for Preppers, by T.
Compsec is a subset of OPSEC that is concerned with computer
security. It can not be ignored if you plan to use computers now and after
a SHTF situation.
The personal computer is a powerful tool to help cope with any disaster or
survival situation. The capacity for enormous data storage in a very small
footprint makes it a valuable resource when the grid and net go down. You will
have all the information you need at your finger tips; first aid and medical
info, maps and topography, equipment and firearms manuals, personal records
and pictures, and the list goes on and on. Just be sure you have back ups of
your data on hard drives and DVDs
and a spare system or two stowed away in an EMP-shielded
cabinet. Laptops make sense as spares due to their transportability and lower
power consumption.[JWR Adds: Like all of you other spare small
electronics, any spare
laptops should
be
stored in 40mm ammo cans, for EMP protection.] Make sure you have
spare batteries
and chargers,
hard drives, etc. Consider having
the
rugged
laptops
that are
shock,
water
and dust resistant. Here are some examples:
Dell Ruggedized Laptop
Panasonic
Toughbook Laptop
See the recent article on how to power your PC with
solar energy in Computer
Power User magazine's November, 2008 issue. The article is titled: “Get
Off The Grid”.
Solar Laptop chargers are available from:
Basegear
Ready Depot
[JWR Adds: Compact photovoltaic power systems are also available
from Ready Made
Resources, a loyal SurvivalBlog advertiser.]
Here are some sites with useful information that you might want to stow away
before TSHTF:
USGS Topography Resources
KI4U Library
First
Aid References
EquippedToSurvive (PDF)
NIH Medline
eBooks
There are many
other
treasure troves of information on the Internet. Look around and
gather those free files now[, and make backups on CD-ROM].
You don't have to spend a fortune on software; if you leave Microsoft behind
and enter the world of Open Source software where you will find a plethora
of great software ranging from the LINUX operating system to office automation,
databases, and hundreds of useful programs. Consider that most viruses and
malware are written for Microsoft products, so open source is generally more
secure for that reason alone. Check out these web sites for some alternative
ways to go:
Ubuntu
Red Hat
SourceForge
Tucows
If you prefer to stick with the tried and true Microsoft, do indeed follow
their security recommendations and make sure you get all the updates installed
as soon as they come out. I recommend using the
automatic updates for the operating system and software packages as well as
virus and spyware scanners.
Scott McNealy, a co-founder of Sun Microsystems once said, “You have
no privacy [in the Internet era]. Get over it.” That is definitely a
true statement. There are gigantic databases all over the world with data on
any
minutiae that
may
have
been recorded from many diverse sources which can then be correlated by high
power computers to produce a pretty good picture of you as an individual should
someone wish to. Some of the data is obtained legally from public records and
news sources; some is obtained illicitly through hacking or purchasing outright
what should be private information. The data may also come from spybots and
Trojan horses right on your very own personal computer.
Anything that is stored on a computer that is connected to the internet is
susceptible to data harvesting. Anything you posted to an on-line message board,
or an email you sent, or a form you filled out, may well still exist somewhere
on the internet even after it seemingly is gone. In the unthinkably large database
of Google it may live a long, long time or on a back up tape in some obscure
data center somewhere. It may even attain near immortality in the “Wayback
Machine”, a database that archives web pages.
Even though using the internet can be hazardous, there are ways to make your
surfing safer. By all means install anti-virus and anti-spyware software and
update it frequently. Another essential is to have a firewall. Most operating
systems now come with firewalls so make sure it is enabled. It can be made
even more secure if you do the homework.It’s not a good idea to leave
your computer running on-line 24/7 unless you have a specific reason to do
so. It gives the hackers a lot of time to work on cracking your system and
once cracked hackers can use your PC in their zombie army to launch more attacks
and collect more data, all in the dead of night while you sleep. You won’t
notice the hard drive and network activity.
Use strong passwords, it’s a pain, but weak passwords are easily cracked
and once that is done, you have absolutely no security at all. Change passwords
regularly because even a strong password can eventually be cracked by brute
force cracking which simply tries random character patterns until it finds
the one that works. If you use words that can be found in a dictionary or even
words slightly modified, be aware that these are much faster to be cracked.
You can learn about strong passwords here:
Microsoft Password Checker
LINUX Password Checker
Free Ultra-Secure
Password Generator from Gibson Research
Pay attention to security settings on your web browser. I use the
Firefox browser because it has better security features [than others like
Microsoft Internet Explorer], such as clearing of private data when exiting,
the ability to manage individual cookies,
and
the
ability to disable
the “HTTP referrer” information that tells the next web site you
visit where you just came from.
Whatever browser and operating system you use, make sure that it is as secure
as it can be and still be functional for your needs. The basic philosophy of
system
hardening is to close all the open doors, install locks, and only open up those
that you absolutely must in order to operate. There are many open doors and
loosely guarded doors in an unsecured system which comes right from the manufacturer
that way. You need to look into all the setting and options that are available
with what ever hardware and software you have, and then start tightening up
as much as possible.
Another problem with most PCs running a Microsoft OS is that they become laden
with junk over time. As you install new software and hardware your registry
grows
to
a huge size and you accumulate startup programs that start up when you logon
and run even if you may not need them. They make the login slower and slower
as they accumulate and some of them may even be spybots reporting back to home
base of your activities. I’m willing to bet that most PC users are running
software for programs they never even use anymore.
Here are a few sites to learn about how to clean your PC of these start-up
parasites:
Info on start-up programs
This a database of good,
bad and optional programs that might be running on your PC.
Microsoft
registry cleaner. There are
other commercial products available, be careful to select the option to make
backups before you clean up the registry. The cleaners occasionally clean too
much and break a program that you need.
Here is a cleaner I have used successfully.
Visit these web sites to give yourself some good security check-outs:
Tons of good compsec information.
Free Tools and Utilities.
The Junkbusters site will tell you if your
browser is giving out too much information.
Gibson Research.
Click on the services tab and select Shields Up! to give your system a security
check up. Check out all their other good security info.
This page will tell you
about your Internet "persona" and check out other good information.
Surf anonymously. This will help keep those who do not have a need to know,
out of your affairs. Just remember that ‘somebody’ will know what
your internet IP addresses is, and that ‘somebody’ is the anonymity
provider or proxy server. It can be traced to your PC.
Here are two free anonymizers:
CEXX.org
ComputerBytesMan
One note of caution about encrypted files and web sites that your browser accesses:
The browser will copy it to cache and it will be in clear text allowing anybody
to read it or a Trojan to copy the page back to its home base server. The
solution is to clear browser cache immediately after accessing encrypted
pages.
Using a search engine link will provide the web site you visit with all the
search terms you used to make the search. Instead, copy and paste the link
into the browser navigation bar for a little extra anonymity. If you have a
Google
account and have logged in to check your Gmail then it is possible for Google
to link your login to your searches thus reducing your anonymity even more. [JWR
Adds: I recommend that SurvivalBlog readers go a step further and
use the
Scroogle Scraper intermediary portal to do any Google searches.]
I hope this information has been helpful for those preparing for those tough
times ahead that lay ahead. I do believe the personal computer can be a powerful
survival tool if, or should I say when, the TSHTF. Visit Set2Survive.com
for
more information, links and resources.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Prepping: A Labor of Love, by Sparky
My preparedness journey began when my mother in law was dying, and we had
to get out of the house for a while. At a flea market, on the bottom shelf,
was
a
book
titled “Making the Best of Basics”. The cover caught
my attention, and before we went home that night, I had read and re-read
the book. I am a union electrician, subject to layoffs, and my husband is
a self-employed painter. The idea that I needed to prepare came easy for
me. I thought I had done well, always buying extra for the pantry. But water?
Oops. I hadn't thought about that one. So, I started doing the things in
the book, and my mind was always going, and the lists got longer.
When I started to realize that I had a lot to do, I shared my thoughts with
my best friend. Instead of laughing, she got on board. We discussed my home
as the retreat. Although it doesn’t fit every need, it has a lot to offer.
We are on a gravel, lightly populated road, about 20 minutes from a medium
city. We have a well, and two acres. Our home has a basement, where we are
working to get things organized. We know most of our neighbors, and have a
community here. One neighbor plows our drive when it snows, and has for two
years now. We treat him to his favorite brew on occasion to thank him, and
I have even taken him a bowl of hot soup when he arrives.
Worst case scenario, we could have as many as 30 family members here, with
varied skills, but it is a momentous task to try to prepare for that many people.
Last spring, my friend and I built raised garden beds that are still producing.
We used recycled bleachers for the boxes, old shelving and other “trash” for
the trellises. An old hog waterer with the waterer cut out, set in the ground
at the proper angle, with a double pane window on it, became a cold frame.
We also have the supplies to expand the garden next year. It is actually a
very pretty garden!
I have dried tomatoes, onions, cabbage, apples, mushrooms, eggs, plums; canned
anything that I had time to, and jellied, with new recipes for dandelion jelly,
zucchini jam, and cantaloupe jam. My three garage sale dehydrators run most
of the time. I have studied new and old methods of drying. I keep sodium metabisulfite,
but also use the older method of using salt and vinegar rinses to preserve
color. I have learned a lot, and my family is scrounging for jars for me. The
supply is dried up here, mostly due to the awakening of some of the sheeple.
After consideration of a generator, it was decided that the best route for
us was to just ready ourselves to be off grid. Second-hand shops have provided
hank crank blenders, food processors, meat grinders, and other kitchen helpers.
A friend helped build an Amish [summer canning] kitchen from some table legs,
wood, and a Freecycled propane
cooktop. One plus to this that we didn’t consider—the stove
is lower in height, which is helpful when working with canners. One thing that
we did consider—a hundred gallons of propane will work this stove, or
the propane stove in the kitchen, for a year and a half. A couple of extra
tanks are on the list to obtain! By putting the cooktop outside, we don’t
heat the house up, which now helps the air conditioning bill, and will definitely
help later, when it is just hot, and there is no air conditioning.
We can also use it in the barn or basement if the weather necessitates. We
also have propane heaters, and for emergencies, canned heat. (The latter is
a 1-quart steel paint can, with a roll of toilet paper with cardboard liner
removed, 16 ounces
of alcohol. Directions for
making these can be found on the LDS preparedness
sites [such as www.ProvidentLiving.org.].)
We have been learning to save our own seeds, and I have been studying some
animal husbandry, expecting to get some small livestock. We also have laid
in a supply of sprouting seeds, and use them.
I now store water, and using the PACE system
means that we have several means of getting more. For now the well is primary,
the hand pump is alternate, the stored water is contingent, and the rain water,
pond water, etc. would be the emergency. However, we also have our eyes on
a pump that would be inline, and pressurize the tank. This will happen soon
if things hold out a while! Although I store drinking water, I also started
saving detergent bottles for non-potable water. I don’t even rinse them.
When we are without water, and have dishes or laundry to do, those bottles
will work perfectly, even offering up the remnants of the soaps in them.
Solar and human generated power are ideas that I am investigating, and if time
permits, we should have minimal power, with minimal outlay. I hope that my
electrical abilities will help here! Several years ago I installed some solar
powered flood lights on my parents’ home, and now plan to put some both
on and in my home. I do understand that during the probable turmoil, their
use would be limited to avoid the target on our backs. However, eventually
things will settle, and they would be of great use. By eliminating the motion
sensor and photo-eye, and direct-wiring a switch, these lights could work in
the house as well, and would need only a path for the solar cell wire, i.e.
through a window. This would be fine as a temporary fix until more permanent
work could be done.
I was able to find a supplier locally for wheat, where I am the only customer.
Not only do I grind flour, making our own breads when time permits, but we
sprout it for both us and our dogs. Incidentally, our older dog was having
some health issues, and I started adding sprouts to the dog food. Within a
couple of weeks, he was acting like a puppy, and his chronic halitosis had
vanished.
I also found a neighbor who grows corn, who took my order for about 10 bushel,
when the moisture content is down and we can store it. Guess some cornbread
with all those beans would be a welcome thought.
I found an article for a vacuum pump, which is worth sharing. I had seen build-it-yourself
pumps, but with all the preps, building one was not in the time allotment.
However, you can go to your local auto store, and get a brake bleeder, with
a gauge and several attachments, very reasonably. I obtained the mason jar
sealers, and now seal all my dehydrated foods with vacuum on them. Just put
the conical end on the bleeder, press it into the jar attachment, and pump
away. When you remove the pump, the jar seals. A mason jar will hold 20 inches (Hg) of
vacuum, which, by the way, will collapse a five gallon bucket. Don’t
ask me how I know. Seal your buckets with a little less vacuum!
My friend and her mom got on board early, and are both also prepping. We are
in the process of getting a community inventory, so we know what we all need
to work on. My mother was supportive, but not overly helpful until this month.
Along with jars, tins, and the usual things on my list from garage sales, she
has started getting winter clothes, socks, etc. She also gave me a nice check
to help with whatever we need, and pledged to give more. My husband has become
more supportive as the economy teeters, and is also now actively engaged in
the OPSEC end of our needs.
Our children are like most kids, struggling to survive. However, they also
pick up an extra bag of rice or can of beans when they can, and send it. I
have given them ideas on putting things away when you can barely afford to
eat. Every week, get at least one item. Even on a bad week, you can afford
a box of salt, rice, beans, pudding, or a can of milk. They also know (thanks
to SurvivalBlog) what they need to look for, and when to get headed home.
If you had told me 10 months ago how very many hours I could find in a day,
week, or month, to do all these things, I would have laughed. Now I look at
the garden, and see not only hours spent with my best friend, laughing as she
learned to use a drill, but the many meals we ate, and will still eat, from
our bleacher boxes. I walk to the basement, and see the supplies there. I see
the full jars of home processed foods, and enjoy just looking at the fruits
of my labor. I see the first aid box, and the many other medical supplies,
and feel some peace. I look in the closet in my office, and find sleeping bags,
blankets, and other items to help out family when they are forced here.
I don’t throw anything out any more, without asking myself if it has
another purpose. My family has lists of things that they are to watch for,
and I often come home from visits with the car full of goodies.
Remember, having all your supplies means nothing if you don’t know how
to use them. Eat wheat, sprout seeds, grow a garden, learn to use the canners,
and lay in a supply of jars and lids. Learn to cook with your essentials, stay
warm with less heat, and amuse yourself without television.
Are we ready? Not by a long shot! The more I know, the more I know that I don’t
know! But knowledge is power, and I do know that when things happen, I am much
more prepared that most, and we have a plan. Your blog site has been invaluable,
and as times become more unpredictable, you are the first thing I check when
I log on. Although I struggle with the fears of not having enough done, I know
that we will not panic. What we have begun is a new way of life that takes
what we have today, and builds on it for tomorrow. Lists will be filled, and
peace grows. God is good, and gives us much. It is our responsibility to use
it wisely. He can only guide our steps if we start walking. Then we have to
count on Him to take care of the things we can’t. Thanks again for what
you do! Sparky
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Letter Re: Some Practical Notes on Third World Living
Jim,
As this is not a competition entry, it has not been reviewed by an outside
set of eyes yet, and I'm sure its kind of disorganized, but this is some
info about third world life, as I can see it here, after things
stabilize.
My wife is from Peru. She was born during the Peruvian hyperinflation and transition
to its next fiat currency, the Nuevo Sol. (Yeah, we're young whippersnappers)
She recently started to help out in getting ready. What helped her was comparing
the current economic climate here to Peru. This allowed her to correlate things
that occur in her former patria with our situation. She is a source of info
on the Third world medium sized city way of life.
In Third world Peru, everyone cooks with propane camp stoves, with big seven
gallon bottles. There is no space built for an American style range, even
in
nice
houses. All water is boiled before ingestion, except [commercially] bottled
water. Trucks come with semi-clean water and people line up to fill up their
buckets
for
washing and drinking. (after boiling) Hopefully you have a big tank on your
roof to
gravity feed it through your pipes, as the power goes out regularly, and your
personal well and pump wont work.
Everyone had bars on every window and door. Houses not made of cement block
are broken into through the walls. They're also too cheap/poor to put enough
steel in the buildings, so they fall down easily in earthquakes. Re-bar is
[used] only in the corners. Nobody has an exposed to the street yard. A courtyard
inside
larger places is the norm, off street parking, if you can afford a vehicle,
is a must, or you wont be parking anything soon. Inyokern told me this concept:
When things go really sour, everyone steals everything so often that everyone
ends up with the same trash that nobody wants to steal anymore. e.g. I have
a nice bike, it gets stolen, I get a new bike but not as nice as the first,
it gets stolen, I buy the worst looking bike I can find. It stays. This is
very true. People with nice hats walk around with a hand on their head. Political
corruption is the norm. Most any government official can be
bought for a couple hundred nuevo sols. Farmers carry guns. People
walk on your roof at night.
Just about everyone is self employed. Selling food in the streets, tricycle
and moto-taxis, home based Liquor stores, etc. Often if you sell higher "dollar" stuff,
your customers don't even come in your building, money and product are exchanged
though the door bars. Keyed locks on both sides. There is no such thing as
a big box store. Even disposable diapers are bought one at a time.
People wear sandals
called yanki. These are said to be made out of used car tires,
but most tires I know of are steel belted, and you can't cut that with a knife.
My two
pair are made
from rubber mining belt I think, as the tread pattern is cut by hand. The poor
wear them, and they supposedly last a loooooong time.
In Peru, the power goes out all the time. Candles are common. People don't
stock up there, the stores I guess have sufficient on hand to handle the outages
and subsequent candle runs. The stores here are obviously not prepared for
that.
Traffic in her small town is nearly non existent, but traffic in Lima is suicidal.
Regards, - Tantalum Tom
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| From FerFAL in Argentina: A US Crash that Will Parallel Argentina's? »
Letter Re: AVGAS as an Alternative Source of Gasoline During Spot Shortages
James,
I’m sort of reluctant to share this because, well, I might need to do
it someday and its value is in the fact that most people don’t know it.
During Hurricane Ike my uncle, who lives in Houston, acquired use of a generator.
That’s an interesting story in itself so I’ll divert for a second
and elaborate: He didn’t own a generator but his next door neighbor did.
Unfortunately, the neighbor had never run the generator and when they needed
it, it wouldn’t start. My uncle is a trained mechanic (former career)
and was able to fix it. In return for his help, the neighbor allowed my uncle
to run an extension cord over to his house to keep the fridge and freezer going.
This underscores the importance of having practical skills. Even if you can’t
afford to store a lot of tangibles, having valuable skills can allow you to
barter work for the things you need. I know you’ve said that a million
times. Well there’s a shining example of the truth in it.
Back to the point I wanted to make: They didn’t have enough gas
for the generator and quickly ran out. The stations were out, and even if they
had gas, there was no power to pump it. So… My uncle is also a private
pilot and flies out of a local general aviation airport. Almost all public
airports sell AVGAS,
[(aviation gasoline), one grade of] which is just highly refined 100 octane
gasoline. It works fine in both cars and equipment [such as generators]. Nobody
was flying in or out, which
left the airport well stocked with gas and apparently, they also had a way
to pump it. He drove up there and bought all he wanted. The only people who
thought to buy avgas were other pilots. They bought all they could use. No
lines, no competition, no fighting.
I’m not suggesting this as an alternative to keep a sufficient supply
of fuel on hand. But it’s an additional resource if your supply runs
out. As I read about the gas shortages in the southeast (right now), all I
can think is that there are probably dozens if not hundreds of pilots gassing
their cars up with avgas… and doing it very quietly. Best, - Matt R.
JWR Replies: Thanks for that reminder. (Using AVGAS in ground
vehicles has been mentioned a few times in the blog.) Just keep in mind that
there could be road
tax
issues,
at least in most English-speaking
countries. Also, most AVGAS (such as 100LL), is made in leaded formulations and
those are not compatible for use with many of the newer vehicles that have
catalytic
converters. (Since leaded formulations quickly degrade catalytic
converters.)
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Letter Re: My Hurricane Ike Experience
Dear Mr. Rawles,
First of all, my heart goes out to all those who truly suffered with loss of
life or property as a result of Hurricane Ike. I only had the minor inconvenience
of being without electricity in Houston for five days. (There are still over
one million in Houston and the surrounding area without power.) So I had a
taste of what it is like to be off-grid and learned a few things to share with
your readers. It seems a lot of people here had generators which burn lots
of precious gasoline. But after a few days the gasoline runs out. We toughed
it out. I did have small camping-type battery powered fans and several flashlights
but can't imagine what we'd do in a situation without power for the long term.
You can have only so many batteries and then what? We had water drawn in bath
tub to use for flushing toilet, as water plants use electricity to pump water.
Also had many frozen plastic milk jugs in freezer and big igloo to keep some
things cold for a couple of days. Ice was very hard to come by. Grocery stores
were closed for a couple of days and there were lines just to get into the
stores when they did open. They let in a few people at a time for crowd control.
I was lucky to have my nonperishable food stockpile. Remember to have extras
for relatives. Gas stations were slow to reopen and had hours to wait when
they did open. (Many buying gas for their generators). We had full tanks in
advance of the storm. One important item we used was the car charger for the
cell phone. Be sure to have one that fits your current phone model. Also, many
don't realize that cordless land line phones use electricity so you need to
have a standard corded phone (which I had) if you want to even find out if
your land-line works. To heat water for coffee we used sterno called Canned
Heat and it worked very well. I know this is merely a temporary solution to
heating. I told my husband recently that I wanted to buy a camp stove and now
he may agree with me. And of course no television or computer which is really
tough. I used my television band radio a lot to get information.
I am now more afraid than ever of what it is going to be like if the power
goes off frequently or stays off in a worse-case scenario. Luckily I didn't
see civil unrest, but what if power stayed off longer? If there was any way,
I would move out of the city. Since I can't leave, I will continue to prepare
the best I can. Please continue to remember the trapped-in-the-city dwellers
when you post ideas for survival. I think we need the most help. Thanks for
all you do, - Nancy B.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: A Recent Gasoline Shortage Underscores the Need to Be Low Profile »
Letter Re: Tropical Storm Ike's Devastation Works its Way North to Ohio
Hi Jim,
We live in Columbus, Ohio and had 76 m.p.h. winds on Sunday. We have been without
power until late today. Our neighborhood looks like a war zone. Many trees
on homes and in yards. There is some good news in that we shared our generator
with neighbors. Others in the neighborhood were doing the same. Some of the
kids set up a barbeque stand and were selling hot dogs and hamburgers for cost.
This helped many to have meals. Everyone helped to clear trees and limbs from
the roads and yards. Schools are still closed for Wednesday and many intersections
still have no signals. The majority of people are using common sense. In general
the west side of Columbus seemed to get hit the worse.
Let me say that we rode this out without much trouble. We had plenty of gas
for the generator and batteries for all of the flashlights and push on lights.
We had water stored but it was not needed. We had the right tools such as pots
and pans etc. that could be used on outside fires.
This was not the case for many. I went shopping for a few things and while
at the store a family was there buying emergency supplies. The mother commented
to me that she didn't know what she was going to fix to eat since she had no
power. I asked if they had a grill and she said yes. I told her to either buy
or use some cheap pots and pans and use the grill to cook. She looked at
me and was so surprised and said she would not have thought to use the grill.
I could have told her a few other ways to make meals but she moved on. I saw
so many people trying to find ice as well as generators. Camping items such
as lanterns were all sold out in stores. I did notice that several stores had
raised prices on these items but most were sold out.
I have never been one, however, to own guns and always felt that I would not
need one. Well that has all changed as of last night. We had the generator
chained to the deck with heavy chains and locks and thought it was safe. We
had been watching television using rabbit ears and I got up to go to the other
room. When I returned I saw a car pull up in front of the house. We were the
only
house
[in the neighborhood] to have lights and it could be seen from the road. You
could also hear the generator from the road. The car moved on when the driver
saw me standing
and looking
out
the window.
We decided we needed something in case they came back trying to take the generator.
The only thing we found was a length of heavy pipe. We got it and then did
not sleep for fear of losing the generator. I will be getting a gun and taking
safety
classes
to ensure proper use so that our property will be defended if needed.
We thought we were prepared but now have found a few items we still need to
get to be better prepared for next time. We have you to thank for helping us
to prepare as well as we did. Sincerely, - Melanie & Rick
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Letter Re: Tropical Storm Ike's Devastation Works its Way North to Ohio
Hi James!
I heard you this morning on WLW [in Cincinnati, Ohio] radio when you did your
quick interview. Nice job.
It is amazing here in Cincinnati the level of
chaos
that exists. The
power
is
still
out to over half a million people. My power just came back on about 10
minutes ago, but I'm waiting until it stabilizes before shutting down my emergency
power system.
We had quite a mess with lots of downed trees and power lines, but overall
it wasn't as bad as Houston - thank God! There has been quite a run on gasoline,
and a bit of gouging here. About 50% of the grocery stores are down without
power. [The] Krogers [grocery store chain in the region] has over 50% of
their stores closed and are predicting quite a loss in frozen/fresh foods at
those
locations.
I've been well prepared for quite a while, so no long gas lines for me, plenty
to eat, power and we've enjoyed a couple of days Internet free, which I might
add hasn't really been that bad! Maybe this will be a wake up call to more
people locally to get prepared. One can only hope. God bless you and yours!
- Larry
in Cincinnati, Ohio
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Letter Re: Generating Photovoltaic Power When Grid Power is Available
Jim:
I agree completely with your comment that [photovoltaic] solar systems should
not be grid-tied to run the meter backward [to isolate the photovoltaic system
from potentially devastating coupled electromagnetic pulse (EMP).]
When the grid is available to home or retreat, I believe it is worth connecting.
It is the easiest way to deal with barns, 220 volt tools and wells, but some
thought to solar wiring can go a long way. Many custom homes and retreats were
built with home-run wiring before the price of wire jumped so high. A number
of these homes and retreats can be solar-controlled simply by DPDT switching
circuit wiring at the fuse box.
Think of two modes – solar when the grid is up and solar when the grid
is down. The thing many people have not thought through is how to utilize their
solar power when the grid is up and they make the lazy choice to grid-tie to
realize the value from their solar system. Grid-up, I run a server and a large
desktop computer from solar. Grid-down, I only run my laptop and have to control
my well (dual 110 volt inverters) versus my refrigerator and chest freezer
so they do not run at the same time. Grid-up, all my barns, refrigeration and
220 VAC is
on the grid and most other 110 VAC is off-grid. When I leave the property,
the grid tie is broken (I don’t need the well then.) and all phantom
loads, lighting and refrigeration are solar run.
All my computers are hooked to my computer network by wireless cards. My television
is wireless as well. This was very difficult to do because I have Charter [Communications,
Inc.] high-definition cable [television service.] It took a broad-band wireless
repeater between the converter box and the television. My solar system utilizes
all available solar power and protects me fairly well from EMP. My home/retreat
has well-insulated metal siding and metal roof for some added fire and EMP
protection. - SAR
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Energy Dependence and U.S. Military Policy, by Edward C. »
Letter Re: Build it Yourself Farm and Homestead Equipment
Mr Rawles
While looking for plans and ideas for a new outbuilding for my home. I found
this
little gem solid information buried deep in the Countyplans.com web site.
It has probably has around 150 plans to build everything from a Turret Lathe
and Mill to Cement Mixers and Tractor Scoop Loaders. This stuff is
in PDF format, download able and free. The plans are reprints from old do
it yourself magazines and are past copyright so there isn't any legal issues
with the downloads
Now a lot of these equipment plans would not pass the government's current
nurf world standards for safety so use them at your risk. Anyone who has ever
work
around
farm equipment knows to keep on their toes or you might end up with a interesting
new nickname. Glad to hear the Memsahib is back in charge, our prayers are
with you and yours. - Henry S.
« Letter Re: Airsoft and Paintball Groups for Small Unit Tactics Training? |Main| Note from JWR: »
Hurricane Iniki - Some Lessons Learned, by B.
Hurricane Iniki, which struck the island of Kauai on September 11, 1992, was
the third-most damaging hurricane in U.S. history and provides some valuable
insights into how people react when an entire self-contained community loses
most of their creature comforts. By way of background, Kauai is the fourth
largest island in the Hawaiian Archipelago. It, along with a small, privately-owned
island off its western coast make up the County of Kauai. The population
in 1992 was about 50,000.
On September 11, 1992, Hurricane Iniki made a direct hit on the island with
winds upward of 150 miles per hour. Approximately 70 percent of the buildings
on Kauai were destroyed or damaged. Telecommunications and electricity were
lost and not entirely restored to all areas for six months. Due to early warning
and good Civil Defense planning, there were only a handful of deaths attributed
to the hurricane. The hurricane missed the rest of the state except for brushing
the leeward coast of Oahu.
National Guard troops from other islands were on Kauai eight hours after the
hurricane had passed. Within three days, there were approximately 1,000 National
Guard personnel on the island. The command and control element reported directly
to the mayor of Kauai County and to the Governor. These lessons learned are
from the personal recollections of a member of the command and control element.
Most striking was the number of relief agencies that arrived on-island within
a week to two weeks after the storm. At one point there were 5,000 relief workers
representing 80 different governmental agencies and private organizations supporting
a population of 50,000. The 1:10 ratio of relief workers to residents was one
reason that there was almost no looting or lawlessness in the aftermath of
the storm. This ratio of 1:10 would be difficult, if not impossible, to achieve
in more densely populated areas or disasters that affect larger geographical
regions (as we saw following Hurricane Katrina) . In New Orleans, the military
response was initially focused on rescue or recovery and not on law enforcement.
Military planning is built around “operating systems” i.e. maneuver,
communications, etc. To facilitate planning, the operating systems inherent
in all civilian communities were identified, assessed and tracked to determine
their current status to coordinate support and to help estimate how long before
each system would be brought back on-line.
These systems were:
- Water
- Food
- Communications and electricity
- Sewage treatment and waste disposal
- Traffic control and public safety
- Medical Services
Each of these operating systems presented unique challenges and insights as
they relate to disaster planning.
Water - There are few private wells on the island. The County owns the water
system, which consists of reservoirs in the mountains and some wells that
service the drier parts of the island. The first priority for Civil Defense
was to
install generators at all pumping stations. In most areas water was back
on-line within 3-to-4 days.
Food - MREs, supplied by the Federal government, were available within a
few days after the storm. They became the main source of calories for most
people.
However, the novelty of eating MREs quickly wore off and distributing food
became a high priority. Feeding stations serving a hot lunch were set up
at various locations around the island using military cooks and idle chefs
from
the various resort hotels. However, headcounts changed daily and it was difficult
to ensure that sufficient food was available at each location.
Communications and electricity - In 1992, there were few cellular phones.
Nearly everyone relied on land lines for their telephone service. The hurricane
downed
perhaps a third of telephone/electrical poles on the island. Crews were flown
in from as far away as the east coast and worked months to repair the damage.
Replacement poles were obtained from the mainland and shipped to Kauai. Reportedly,
the base yards in several western states were emptied of poles to support
the recovery operation for a community of 50,000. It should be noted that
Hurricane
Andrew had hit Florida three week before Iniki and the two areas were competing
for some high priority items like telephone poles and the, much prized, blue
plastic tarps used as temporary patches for leaking roofs. There were microwave
relay sites on the island to transmit communications signals from Kauai to
the other islands and, then, worldwide. Some of these sites had only minor
damage and were quickly repaired. Others were destroyed and replacement equipment
was flown in from Oahu or the mainland. Within a week. telephone service
was available to the public via mobile phone trailers that were set up around
the
island. However, telephone service to individual homes, like electricity,
was delayed for up to six months as crews replaced downed poles.
Sewage treatment and waste disposal - Kauai is a mix of public sewer systems
and [private] septic systems. FEMA provided generator support to the Kauai
County sewage treatment facilities and sewage never became a major health issue.
Waste
disposal was more challenging. The hurricane created a lot of destruction
and debris.
County sanitation workers had been furloughed to take care of their families.
The County landfills were initially closed. People began to dump trash along
side the roads. About three weeks after the storm over 1,500 active duty
soldiers were brought to the island with their equipment and went door-to-door
cleaning
up yards and hauling away debris. A new landfill with an expected life of
ten years that had been opened shortly before the storm was completely filled
within
a couple of months.
Traffic control and public safety - It became apparent within the first few
days that the Kauai Police Department was overwhelmed. A decision was made
to free-up police officers whenever feasible to take care of their own families.
Restoration of electricity to key intersection was given high priority so
that traffic signals would be operational. Interestingly, there was little
civilian
traffic for the first week since few businesses were operating and most of
the roads were blocked by downed poles. A military police unit was flown
in to provide traffic control as needed. However, as conditions improved,
people
adapted to driving without traffic lights and were generally courteous to
other drivers when arriving simultaneously at intersections. Few accidents
were reported.
Looting was minimal due to the large presence of the military. The Honolulu
SWAT deployed to Kauai and operated at night in high priority areas such
as near jewelry stores, banks, etc. Two looters were arrested within the
first
week following the storm. In what amounted to lighting justice, they were
charged, tried and convicted, and incarcerated within a week. The case was
widely publicized
and served as a great deterrent. The fact that access to the island was tightly
controlled for the first month also stopped any outsiders from taking advantage
of the situation. The lesson learned is that highly visible military and
police presence coupled with quick convictions served to keep criminal activity
at
a manageable level. However, the local police department, as we saw in the
aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, is probably incapable of maintaining law
and order.
Medical - All medical personal who live on Kauai were affected by the hurricane
and, with the exception of emergency rooms, normal medical support ceased.
State and County Civil Defense had air evacuated most expectant mothers and
dialysis patients to Oahu a few hours before the hurricane struck. Interviews
with doctors from the various relief organizations uncovered a pattern of
medical emergencies. The first few days saw broken bones from falling off
roofs, nail
punctures and similar wounds. After about a week, diabetics and people on
mood altering prescription drugs started to show up at the clinics looking
for medication.
These were followed by people who had ran out of medicine for chronic maladies
like high blood pressure and epilepsy.
Drug addicts presented a special problem in that their regular supply was
disrupted. No illegal drugs were getting on the island because the airfields
and seaports
were controlled by the military. Initially, addicts turned to known drug
dealers and, if necessary, broke into the dealers’ homes looking for
drugs. As a last resort, they started to appear at medical aid stations.
Typically this
occurred 7-10 days after the storm.
Medical challenges provide some of the most relevant lessons learned for
people interested in preparing for a breakdown in local, regional or national
government.
As any infantryman will tell you, the welfare and location of the unit medic
is always on your mind. If you don’t believe you have any skills to
offer a group, you should develop your first aid and medical skills. There
will always
be a need for a “doc” to take care of group members. Research
and build your own medical kit. Talk to emergency room workers and find out
how
they triage incoming patients. Research and memorize the checklists that
first responders use as they assess patient needs and prioritize casualties.
Research
the process doctors use to diagnose patient complaints and symptoms. Medical
equipment and a confident air could be your passport to safety. One of the
most prized items turned out to be generators. Without the immediate influx
of generators from FEMA and the military, life of Kauai after the hurricane
would have been much tougher. Generators pumped water, cleaned sewage, provided
electricity to medical facilities, and refrigerated perishable food that
had been barged and flown to the island. In many instances, relatives of
Kauai resident living on the other islands or the mainland bought generators
and
have
them
shipped to the Kauai. Military and civilian generators arriving at the port
on Kauai were occasionally stolen by enterprising homeowners who simply backed
their trucks up and drove off with a generator that had been off-loaded and
staged for pickup by the legal owner. Apparently some local residents felt
that it was worth the risk to provide refrigeration and lights to their families.
The willingness to risk jail to obtain a generator can likely be traced to
the desire to eat fresh food. MREs quickly lost their savor, especially for
children.
Kauai residents would tell you that the most stressful time came immediately
after the hurricane when all communication was lost and people were restricted
to their immediate neighborhoods by the downed poles and trees. They simply
did not know if they were going to get any help because they did not know
whether the other islands had been hit by the storm. A communication plan
that is well
thought-out ahead of time would be a great psychological boost following
a catastrophe. In addition to a good electronics, something as simple as
a bulletin
board that is updated every few hours would help the cohesiveness and bonding
of the group.
Finally, I need to say something about the way people reacted and adjusted
following the storm. In 1992, people in their 70s and 80s had lived through
the Great Depression and World War II. They proved to be tougher than one
would expect . They usually had a better attitude and often adapted better
to living
without television, electrical light and refrigeration than did many younger
people. Military people found the duty easier than most field training exercises.
Military veterans had often endured tougher times and also quickly adapted.
In general, the more outdoor oriented people were, the easier their transition
and recovery.
Some folks could not cope with the dramatic changes in their routine and
committed suicide. Others left the island; never to return.
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Letter Re: Advice on Photovoltaic Power Systems
Greetings! I'm a long time reader, first time writer. I have been interested
in "off-grid" photovoltaic power systems as a way to generate power
should the grid go down. I'm pretty well versed on electricity and concepts,
but what
name brands would you recommend
for the main components (panels, charge controller, batteries and inverter)?
Though I have heard of things like Trace, Xantrex, gel battery and pure sine
wave, my practical knowledge is limited. I apologize if this has been covered
before - point me in the right direction and I'll check the archives. Also,
have you ever heard of a dual setup where one could run their house the standard, "on-grid" way
and then flip a switch near the breaker box to have all the outlets in the
home powered by solar? Keep up the good work! - Josh in Illinois
JWR Replies: All of the major brands of
monocrystaline weatherproof photovoltaic (PV) panels are essentially comparable in
terms of their rated output, service life, glazing strength (impact resistance),
and ability
to
withstand
the weather.
Most have similar warranties (although some are slightly better). For these
reasons, PV panels should be considered a commodity, and as such,
the price per watt should be the main determining factor in picking a brand.
(Although
if you are like me, you might prefer to buy an American-made product.)
Batteries are another commodity, at least if buy traditional lead-acid deep
cycle ("golf cart" type) batteries. Because of their high shipping
weight, I strongly recommend that you buy the batteries for your system from
a local dealer,
such as your local Interstate Batteries dealer. Be sure to do some comparison
pricing before you buy. If the dealer offers a "core" credit
and you are buying an entirely new system, be advised that dealers are
often not particular about what you provide them for your trade in. (They are
essentially just looking for
a source of
lead
plates for recycling.) If their core refund terms are based strictly on battery
weight or the combined number of Amp hours capacity, one trick
is to ask around locally at venues such as Craig's
List, for free used car, truck, and tractor batteries. (Batteries that
are so old and sulfated that they will no longer hold a charge.) Part-time
mechanics
often
have a dozen or more such batteries
available, free for the taking. Depending
on the
size
of your
system,
if you have a strong back and aren't afraid to get your hands dirty, this
can save you
several
hundred dollars.
As for inverters: Inverter technology varies considerably, depending on maker.
The
Trace brand inverters are now sold under the Xantrex
Technology name, and they
still control a large portion of the market. Their major competitor in the
US is
Outback Power Systems,
an up-and-coming company that was started by a group of former Xantrex engineers,
following some serious disagreements with the Xantrex
corporate
management.
The Outback
brand holds a slight margin in inverter technology.
Charge controller technology is still advancing, but all of the major brands
are roughly comparable. Just be sure to get a controller that can handle your
anticipated needs, even if you eventually add a few panels. Also keep in mind
that the more "bells and whistles" on a charge controller equals greater vulnerability
to EMP.
(They are fairly inexpensive, so it is wise to keep a spare, stored in a Faraday
cage enclosure, such as a a steel ammo can.)
Ready
Made Resources (one of our most loyal advertisers) offers free
consulting on alternate power system system siting, load requirements/system
sizing, and so forth. Be sure to take
advantage
of
this
very generous free service.
They can design true "turn key" system for you that will require
no upkeep other than periodic battery maintenance. A grid-tied system can be
set up
to provide "automatic failover""--meaning that there will be
no interruption of power to your home or retreat more than at most a few moments,
in the event of a power failure.You can also
design a system that will allow you to sell power back to your power utility--the
much-touted "meter
running backwards"--depending on your local laws and power company
policies.
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Letter Re: Low RPM Diesel Generator Availability
Dear James -
Thanks for the
great article link on "growing fuel" and thanks again for all
the information at SurvivalBlog!
Low speed diesels [that were recently mentioned
in
the blog]
such as the
Lister
and
Listeroid
clones are fantastic, but sadly that ship has sailed. The anemic dollar,
high metal prices,
rising shipping
costs
and
the
hassle of US Customs have pretty much halted importation. Also, word is
that [the US] EPA will soon (if they haven't already) re-block importation
of
these marvels because they don't meet emissions requirements for stationary
engines.
As
to that, Listeroids are extremely efficient so they might just meet standards
- it's more likely that the cost of certification is prohibitive.
Sadly,
the annual total emissions of these stationary power plants are meaningless
in the grand scheme, and that's obviously not the real purpose of such inane
regulation. Anyway, there are emissions-legal alternatives (the Yanmar,
Weichai, et cetera.) but they're more expensive and not widely distributed.
Also, they're
less suited to running vegetable oil fuels and may require a bit of modification
for this purpose. To make matters worse, I'm told by the folks who sold me
my Listeroid that the Chinese expeller presses that press the oil from seeds
have likewise soared in price and are practically impossible to come by.
Yet another indicator of how late it really is [to prepare]. Regards, - Fred H.
JWR Replies: Lister clone engines do pop up on the secondary
market here in the US. Watch for them vigilantly at Craigslist.com and
in newspaper and "nickel" paper classified ads. Note that not all sellers will
use the correct terms
Lister or Listeroid in their
ad titles, so also do searches on "low RPM Diesel" or "one cylinder diesel". OBTW, SurvivalBlog reader Glenn recommends Central Maine Diesel as a source.
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Letter Re: Advice on a Mini Photovoltaic Battery Charging System
Hi Mr. Rawles,
I had a question about the article titled Letter Re: For Want of a Battery.
In it you said to connect the Northern
Tool & Equipment Solar-Powered Trickle
Charger — 5
Watt Item # 339973, with this
battery pack . How does the panel connect to the battery pack? And
does your recommended
Accupower
AccuManager 20 Battery Charger (a battery charger for AA, AAA,
C, D, and 9 volt rechargeable batteries connect to
the 12 volt battery pack via the cigarette lighter plug? Also, could
you please tell me how many AA batteries you could charge from one 12
volt battery pack. Thanks for your time and your blog. Signed, - LZ
JWR Replies: Unless it already has one installed, you would
have to wire a cigarette lighter-type plug on to the lead wires from the photovoltaic
panel. Those are
available for any electronics
supply
store
such
as Radio
Shack. Typically with DC wiring the red or white wire is positive, and that
would go to the "tip" terminal
on the lighter plug. (Note: Be sure double check the polarity with a volt-ohm
meter before plugging it in!) One nice thing about jump packs is that they
have a built-in charge controller.
If
you upgrade to larger capacity storage--such as a standard car battery or
better yet a pair of golf cart batteries--either add a charge controller
to the circuit or
be very careful about checking voltage regularly during
charging so that you don't "cook" your battery.
I own an AccuManager
20 Battery Charger. They were designed by a company in Germany, but I was sad
to see that they are now made in mainland China. However, they do work well.
They are a "smart" charger--
so they will not over-charge your batteries. They come with both a 12 VDC cord
(with cigarette lighter plug) and a 120 VAC adapter.
The charger has six "channels",
so it can simultaneously hold four AAA, AA, C, D cells, and two 9 VDC batteries.
You can recharge at least 20 AA cells from a jump pack that is fully charged.
With a five watt photovoltaic panel it might take two or three days to charge
your jump pack. A 10 watt panel (or two 5 watt panels wired parallel) works
much
better,
and a 20 watt panel works even better still. Your ability to "make do" with
a smaller panel depends on your budget, how many
batteries you need to keep charged, and your time available to re-position
the panel to keep it in full sunlight throughout the day.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes from JWR »
After 10 Years--Some Observations and Lessons Learned by a Y2K-Era Prepper
It was June, 1998. Y2K was
a salient topic of conversation. It got my attention. When the electricity
went off and there would be no water to drink, and no
fuel to move food to the JIT grocery
stores, I could see things getting very ugly. I had been willing to fight
for this nation as a member of the US Army.
Now it was time to fight for my household. I bought a Springfield Armory
M1A. I bought a safe to store it in. I bought another M1A (for
the spousal unit of course!) I bought ammo. Lots of it. I bought gear. I
bought food.
I became awakened to the idea of being self-reliant.
That was 10 years ago. Y2K didn’t cause a global melt down. (Although
I have a friend in the service that sat in a command bunker holding his breath
at Y2K – the
government didn’t know what was going to occur.) I
have not had to live through or endure Hurricane
Katrina. No participation
in the 9/11 attacks.
In fact, I can’t claim a campaign ribbon for any
disasters. Am I upset or sorry that I have changed my life to follow a path
of self-reliance? Most definitely, absolutely not!
Let me share with you the good and the bad of what I have done in the last
ten years. So often, people new to self-reliance are like ants at the foot
of a mountain staring up with their head touching their back wondering how
in the world they will ever be able to replace modern society and be able to
take care of themselves WTSHTF.
Well, truth be told, you can’t do it
overnight unless you’re Warren Buffet. I am walking, talking living proof,
however, that you can make significant progress. Let me show you!
In order to show you that you do indeed have cause for hope, let me share
a
few of my screw-ups. How about the initial purchases I made
while in a state of “marked concern” when I became “self
aware” with
regard to self – reliance. The money I invested in self-reliance was
my spousal unit’s “down payment on a house”. Do you think
this view of “my nest” versus “the world may end” led
to some intense “discussions”? You bet your last dog flea it did.
For much of the intervening 10 years I have been the one prepping while my
wife harbored a severe grudge against the entire topic because I spent our
money for the house down payment on crazy self-reliance materials. A grade
of “F” to
me for consensus building. She is just beginning to come around in the last
two years. Poster child example of a bucket of wet sand. (If two guys fight,
they belt each other like two crazed wolverines. Eventually they realize they
were stupid for fighting, shake hands, forgive and are back to being friends.
Kinda like a cow urinating on a big flat rock – big splash and splatters,
but it dries up pretty quickly. Get in an argument with a gal and it is like
pouring water into
a bucket of sand – the surface may dry after a bit, but it stays wet
down in that bucket for a long time.)
I very religiously squirreled away Gillette Atra razors because that is what
I used each day. The handle that you click onto the blade cartridge gave up
the ghost after many years of faithful service. The stores don’t sell
them anymore! Now I have three dozen packs of five cartridges with no way to
use them to shave! Fortunately, I did find a second/spare handle in my stores
and
will
be able to use them up. Did I re-learn some valuable lessons? You bet!
Two is one, and one is none.
You need to see what you have (inventories!)
Store what you Eat/use – I did great on the cartridges, but forgot
spare handles!
In the run-up to Y2K I bought a dozen 6 volt golf cart batteries to be able to
set-up some kind of power system in the house. Great intent. No photovoltaic
panels No wiring until last year. They have been “stored” sitting
on pallets in a friends storage building for 9 years because I have not been
able to get
to the replacement power system yet. I could have used that money for a higher
priority item.
The spousal unit and I built our home last year. We did many things very right.
Some learning experiences occurred, however. Maybe chief amongst them is my
underestimation of the massiveness of the size of this endeavor! I joke with
friends about not being free from the To Do list to be able to get into trouble
for at least five years! Fix the septic pond berms. Sort out the “scrap” lumber.
Put a deck on the back of the house so the [building] code Nazis will give
us the permanent occupancy permit. Fix the leaking pressure tank in the basement.
Fix the DR
mower. Mow. Clear 30 trees dropped to get the septic pond clearance (not done
with that one yet). Cut and split and stack firewood. The list goes on. Don’t
get me wrong – I would not trade my homestead back for city living for
anything. Was I able to foresee the "second & third order effects” of
the change to a country homestead? Nope. Not even having read Backwoods Home
magazine for 8 years. Thank God I listened to my in-laws and did not try
to finish the upstairs interior construction while living downstairs!
Prior to Y2K I tried very hard to create a group. It failed in many ways. Had
Y2K caused the feared problems, we would have been road kill. Okay, we would
have been the third or fourth critter on the highway run over by life, but
we were
nowhere near ready to deal with WTSHTF/TEOTWAWKI.
The Yuppie Queen and her husband went right back to spoiling their princess/daughter,
buying Jaguars, clothes,
and hair implants. You know - living the typical American city life. The other
couple moved out onto 20 acres in a very rural county and raise goats and chickens.
I am on 20+ acres and moving in a self-reliant direction. Two out of three
ain’t
bad!
I endured the gauntlet of multiple careers trying to find a fit for who I am.
Thankfully, my spousal unit was trained well by her farmer parents. We never
carried any debt other than the mortgage. One thing we did do smart was under-buy
on our home with a condo (sixplex) in town. No car payments. No credit card
payments. We kept 3-6 months of expenses in savings. One business venture was
as a franchisee for Idiotstate. Massive mistake. Four years with no income
for me and a net loss of $60,000 overall. What preps could you get done with
an
extra $60,000? I am certainly not happy I put one in the “L” column.
I am not proud of failing. I am proud of jumping into the fight and giving
it my 110%. As they used to tell me in the military, “What an opportunity
for character building!” Learning lesson for me was that I should never
have stopped Soldiering. I simply have green blood. I have returned to the
Army by working as a tactical/leadership contractor at a nearby Fort and getting
reappointed into the National Guard. Will a deployment take me away from directly
protecting The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU)? Yes. Does staying employed doing
what God designed me to do mean we’ll have a steady income? Likely. Does
a pension check from age 65 on make us better able to care for ourselves? You
betcha. The world may not disintegrate in 30 days. It may actually remain fairly
normal. One has to prepare for that contingency as well.
By now you have to be thinking “What a knothead! This guy couldn’t
find his fourth point of contact if you put one hand on a cheek!” Well,
not so fast there Skippy! I have a thing or two that should go in the “W” column.
I should give you a massive dose of hope! Let me describe to you in a quick
overview where I have come to in my 10 year quest to become more self-reliant.
First, about our home…
Home
Your home is your castle, right? Well mine actually kinda is. It sets on a
chunk of land that is 20+ acres. The terrain is rolling and 95% wooded. It
butts up against a cemetery to the north, a 900+ acre conservation area to
the south, a river to the west, and a section line to the east. The home is
an Insulated Concrete Form (ICF)
structure. The walls are 1” of concrete
fake rock veneer, 2.5” of foam, 8” of reinforced concrete, 2.5” of
foam, 5/8” of sheetrock. It is “round”, being made up of
12 wall sections each 8 feet in width. Two stories with a basement. About
1,800 square feet of living space. (2,700 with the basement, however, that
area is not finished yet.) Geothermal heating/cooling and a soapstone wood
stove.
Metal roof. No carpeting – oak floors and tile. The wellhead
is inside the home so I don’t have to worry about winter breakdowns or freeze-ups,
nor losing access WTSHTF. We are running at top speed towards the 20% equity
checkpoint in order to get rid of the bankster-invented Private Mortgage Insurance
(PMI) extortion racket. (We have a credit rating of 804, so the “risk” the
bank incurs by carrying our note is a freaking joke!). It suits our lifestyle
very,
very
well. Our intent was to have a very low maintenance home. Having lived here
one year in two more weeks, it looks like we have a very big check mark in
the “W” column. More details on the design/floor plan in a future
article!
Weapons & Training
We have an M1A set-up for combat, and one set up for long-range precision work.
The Glock 21
[.45 ACP] is the base pistol for the household, with one for each of us and
a G30 [compact Glock .45 ACP] as back-up. The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU) doesn’t
carry a rifle or carbine, just the pistol. (More on that later.) Training for
both of us
includes Defensive
Handgun 1 and Team Tactics with Clint and Heidi Smith at Thunder Ranch. I have
also had General Purpose, Urban, and Precision Rifle with Clint. I completed
a special symposium at Gunsite (pistol, rifle, shotgun, carbine). I am an NRA Certified
pistol, rifle, and home defense instructor. I have several other weapon platforms
as a “Dan Fong” kind of guy. The two rifles with
accoutrements, and the four pistols with same were certainly not cheap. Nor
was the training. I do, however, know how to properly employ them now.
Food & Supplies
The spousal unit & I could stretch the on-hand food to cover two years.
Canned freeze dried is 45% of it, bulk buckets is 45%, and “normal use” food
is the last 10%. We have built a rolling rack set of shelves for the 3rd part
to ease rotation of the canned goods with each grocery store trip. No, I haven’t
found the secret spy decoder ring sequence on how to rotate the bulk and freeze-dried
stuff with our normal, both of us work, lifestyle. The sticking point for this
area I see is that WTSHTF, Mom & Dad in-law, Sister-in-law, Brother-in-law
with wife and two princesses (one with hubby), and my Mom & her husband
will
show up on our doorstep. That makes for an even dozen mouths to fee
Security
Now for a bit more detail. First topic up, IAW my military training, is Security.
The base of everything here is God. I have chosen to bend my knee to Jesus
Christ as my Lord and Savior. I can amass all the weapons, ammo, food and “stuff” you
can imagine, but He is the one ultimately in charge. I am charged to be a prudent
steward of His possessions - my family, property, vehicles, food, weapons,
ammo, etc.. I am definitely striving to be the ant storing things for the winter.
If you ain’t right in this area, it will really matter in eternity.
Part of your security is weapons. There are sheeple, wolves, and sheepdogs.
I am definitely in the 3rd category. In today’s world your “teeth” are
your firearms. I plan from a Boston T. Party paradigm of having a battle rifle.
Hence, the M1A. Were I starting over today, I would likely go with a FAL, but
now "I will dance with the one that brung me". Or maybe just accept the brilliance
of the M1
Garand at $620 delivered to your doorstep from the Civilian Marksmanship
Program (CMP).
I do have two of these. Hard to argue with .30-06 ball. I renovate Mausers
as my hobby and so have a .35 WAI scout rifle. A second one in the
more common 7.62x51 chambering is in work now. I laos have a Mossberg 835 [riotgun],
two Ruger 10/22s (one blued, one stainless), Ruger MKII stainless .22 LR pistol,
S&W
625 pistol in .45 ACP/.45
Auto Rim, a few Enfields, and a couple of Mosin-Nagants round out the field.
Let me detail for you the path to get to the Glocks. I think it may save you
some of your money. I received a Colt Gold Cup [M1911]
.45 ACP pistol from my Dad as a graduation gift from the Hudson Home For Boys
[aka USMA West Point].
Great
intent. A weapon as a gift – how can you ever be wrong in doing this?!
However, a terrible choice as a combat weapon. The Gold Cup is a target pistol.
Tight
tolerances.
Feeds only hardball, and that can be tenuous proposition. I carried it on the
East-West German border leading patrols. The rear sight broke twice. The front
sight shot off once and tore off twice. It was a jammomatic. I hated it. Sold
it to a guy that wanted to target shoot.
Took that money and bought a stainless Ruger P90DC. Sack of hammers tough.
always goes bang when you pull the trigger. Inexpensive as far as handguns
go. After some marked de-horning, you could even make it run in a fight without
shredding you at the same time. One marked problem. Two [different weight]
trigger pulls [for first round double action versus subsequent round single
action.]. This started to teach me to throw the muzzle down as I pulled the
trigger in
double
action.
This nasty habit caused a problem when you were firing the 2nd through X rounds,
as now it operates as a single action. TLSU had a heck of a time with it at
Thunder Ranch. Clint loaned her his G21. No more trigger problems.
Still bowing at the altar of the 1911, I bought a Kimber Compact to carry instead
of the Ruger. (I still have the Ruger – it is still “the gun that
my Dad gave me” and no one buys the P90 used for anywhere near it’s
initial cost, so I can’t sell it without taking a significant bath on
it.) The Kimber was going well. Then I got a little too aggressive at slamming
magazines home in the shortened grip and jammed it. Then the recoil rod unscrewed
itself during an IPSC run
and seized the gun while messing up the trigger. Off to Kimber. Free warranty
work and 48 hours without my self-defense pistol.
Now I have no confidence in the pistol. I Loc-Tite’d the recoil rod
and staked it so it wouldn’t come undone again. Then I sold it.
Glocks cost roughly one-half of what a Kimber does. Crummy factory sights,
but all my pistols wear tritium anyway. No ambidextrous safety required. My
short fingers are
mated to big palms, so I can handle the grip. TLSU has been trained on the
Glock Model 21 (G21). It ain’t an issue of psychological derangement
like many guys get about their 1911/Glock/H&K/Springfield, but it is a
comfortable and working relationship between Glock & I. I have a G21 and
a G30 for both of us. They always go bang accurately and they have never rusted.
I am
not
pleased
with Gaston [Glock]’s refusal to take responsibility for any mistakes
they make in manufacturing. No problems with the G21 however. A pistol is what
you
use
to fight your way back to your rifle, which you shouldn’t have laid down
in the first place.
M1As hit my safe because it is what I knew from the service. They also fire
a full power cartridge, 7.62x51. It makes cover into concealment. I don’t
have the other 10 guys in an infantry squad fighting with me so I can maneuver
under their covering fire. I have to hit the bad guy with a powerful blow once
and move on to the next wolf/bad guy. Mouse guns firing rabbit rounds don’t
scratch that itch for me. To each his own. My two are old enough to have USGI
parts and good quality control. Here are the mods I made to my “combat” M1A.
Maybe they will help you:
Krylon paint job to disrupt the "big black stick" look
M60 [padded] sling
Front sight filed down so that zero is achieved with the rear sight bottomed
out
Handguard ventilated
National Match trigger group, barrel, and sights (came as a “Loaded” package
from Springfield)
Rear aperture drilled out to make it a ghost ring
Skate board tape on slick metal butt plate
For the “Surgical” M1A (it shoots1/2 minute when I do my part):
National Match loaded package
Trigger assembly additionally tuned at factory
Unitized gas system
Factory bedded
Stainless barrel
Swan rings and QD bases
Leupold M3 3.5-10x40 scope
Handmade leather cheekrest
Other weapons - I have two M1
Garands. Both were bought from the CMP. One
is stored offsite with a "Bug-In Bag" (BIB). One is a Danish return, less
wood, that I re-stocked. TLSU has claimed this one as hers. Ammo from the CMP
is
cheaper
than any
other cartridge out there, save the communist surplus stuff. An M1917 Enfield
(also
from CMP) is in the safe, along with a 2A, a #3, and a #4. A VZ24 is stored
offsite. The first Mauser I renovated is sitting there as an additional .30-06
with a Trijicon 3-9x40 tritium-lit scope. A Remington 700 with Leupold VX-II
scope is in the safe, but likely to be sold soon. A Mosin-Nagant (M44 or
M38) ride in each vehicle.
I formerly had [Ruger] Mini-30s. I could never find any 20 or 30 round magazines
that would function reliably. I sold them and got SKS carbines. When I quit
holding out
for TLSU to become a Warrior and carry one, I sold them off to fund other
toys. I am pondering the purchase of an AK folder because it is a sack of
hammers
tough and can be transported discretely. I don’t know if I have ever
come out on the positive side when selling a gun. Now I have to re-buy an
AR-15 to have one for training purposes. The SKSs could be useful for arming
the
family showing up on your doorstep. Hindsight being 20/20, I would caution
against selling any gun you buy. (The 700 mentioned above is a 2nd precision
weapon and I have no AK to train with. Still deciding.)
Ammo is required to feed these weapons. I have over 10,000 rounds of 7.62x51.
I have over 10,000 rounds of .22 LR. No, I don’t think these amounts
are enough. Now that the costs of ammo have risen to heart stopping levels,
I really don’t feel like I bought enough in the past!
I need to plus up the quantities/smatterings of other cartridges that I have
like .30-30 Winchester, .270 Winchester,
.40 S&W.
The location of my home is the best I could get balancing competing requirements.
It is as far from the city as we can get and still stomach the drive to work.
It is between two major line of drift corridors – 12 miles to the major
one, 8 miles to the secondary one. It is bordered by neighbors on only one
side. The folks in the cemetery don’t say much. The critters in the
wildlife area are more vocal - the ducks, turkeys, geese, hoot owls, loons,
coyotes
sound off regularly. We don’t mind. About 95% of the property is wooded.
A few hickory, lots of oak. walnut, (unfortunately) locust trees are all
there.
The local river comes out of it’s banks about every other year and
blocks our driveway for several days, but never comes near the house. The
German Shorthair
is long in the tooth for security, but she is there. A new pup is in the
pipeline.
I would feel a great deal more secure if the homestead was picked up and
dropped into Idaho or Alaska. It is about as good as we can do, though, staying
near
a major city so we can have decent paying jobs. There are some improvements
we can make though. I just bought a weather alert radio from Cabela’s
today. Tough to hear tornado sirens when you live miles away and have 1 foot
thick walls! We need a driveway monitor/alarm. Again, the superior insulation
of
the walls means we hear nothing outside. I can see the utility
of sandbags if things got really ugly. Some more land line communication
assets would be
useful. I think an AR-15 for training people would be useful, as would an
AK. Overall, I think we have done pretty well in the security arena.
Our Home
We started the 10 years in a condo. It was part of a six-plex set on a small
pond. I hate Homeowner’s Associations and their covenants! We could afford
the mortgage on one of our two paychecks. Good thing! I didn’t get a
paycheck for four years. We scraped by. Two years after re-entering the job
market we built our house. We worked on the plans for five years. Beware! Finding
a property piece and building a non-shoebox home on it is not for the feint
of
heart!
You effectively are funding the construction of a mini town. You build and
maintain mini roads (your driveway). You must build and maintain a mini sewage
plant (Your septic system/pond). You must build and maintain a mini water plant.
(Your well.) You must perform mowing and tree removal for the mini parks of
your town (Your “yard”/acreage). I will write a separate article
detailing our construction woes.
Let me highlight some of the self-reliant features of the house for you. We
did not want to spend a constant stream of Federal Reserve Notes [FRNs]on
maintenance. We used insulated concrete form (ICF) construction for the structural
strength
and the energy efficiency. The metal roof should outlast us. The geothermal
and
the
R-50 walls
of the
ICF are paying us back the initial investment in construction costs. We opted
for no carpeting due to the track in mud nature of the property, having a dog,
and me having allergies. Wood and tile floors don’t hold dirt like carpets
do. Less fire hazard as well. We used commercial steel doors for the exterior
and security-need spots. They have ASSA
[high security] locks. They have peepholes.
The basement has a 10’ square root cellar for the storage of canned produce
from the garden. It also has a safe room/shelter. 12” of concrete overhead.
The well head is enclosed in it. Land line telephone and power service into
it via buried lines. Food stored in it. DC wiring
in place to the attic for when we get to the photovoltaic [PV]
system. We also ran DC wires to each room in the house for the use of LED lighting
off of a battery system. The soapstone
wood
stove
augments the electrically driven geothermal. (In spite of several damaging
thunderstorms this past year, we have not lost power so far – great job
juice Coop!)
The stairwell was kicked out onto the W/NW of the house. This shields the house
from the hottest part of the day’s sunlight, and the coldest winter winds.
We made the stairwell an extra foot wide. What a huge nice difference that
foot makes to walking up and down each day, not to mention moving stuff up
or down them! The mud porch/entry was set up for coming in with muddy boots,
or for snow covered coats. We should have made it 1’ wider, as it can
be a little tight. The bench is great for donning/doffing boots. The tile is
easy to clean the muddy paw prints, human or canine, off of.
Windows were one of the few areas that caused some fireworks. TLSU wanted a
green house in order to take advantage of the great view of the property. I
wanted firing ports to defend against mutant zombie hordes. I am still hugely
uncomfortable with the nakedness the windows leave us with. Yes the view is
great, but what about when we experience incoming rounds, or more mundanely,
when someone comes out to the property while we are away from the house all
day at work and they help themselves to our stuff? Some relief is in sight,
however. We are pricing Shattergard vinyl film for the ground floor windows.
Things That are Still Need on the Home
The great thing about the R-50 ICF walls is that they are R-50 and pretty tough.
The bad thing is that they are R-50 and pretty tough. We can’t hear anything without
a door or window being open. Hence the just purchased weather alert radio for
us from Cabela’s this week. It is kind of eerie waking up at
0200 hours and having no idea if the thunderstorm is just a thunderstorm or
if it is a tornado. The television is useless when the rain is so heavy that
the dish won’t get a signal. With regard to 2-legged varmints, a driveway
MURS Alert
system is on the purchase list as we have had multiple invited guests show
up, beat on the front door, and have to walk around to the living room
windows to get our attention so they can be let inside. Okay for invited guests – certainly
too close for uninvited varmints!
The entry hallway was one of TLSU’s “must haves” in the house
layout. It has worked out well in terms of traffic flow and such. The security
door at the foot of the stairs is a tough choke point to deal with at 0500
in the dark. No light installed there means nothing is visible through the
peephole.
I will have to install a camera and/or light so I don’t open it to let
the dog out in the morning and get rushed by 2-legged varmints.
So far, the only commo needs are between myself and TLSU. When the sister-in-law,
brother-in-law, parents-in-law and my Mom show up and we start pulling
security, we will need to be able
to talk more. I have an old set of TA-312 [field telephone]s and wire for the
primary LP/OP,
but obviously will need more in this area. Just not a sexy/fun area to spend
FRNs on for a combat arms kinda guy, but I am working on the self-discipline
needed.
We did look ahead and sink the FRNs into running 12V wires in the home for
future installation of PV panels and batteries. Obviously things like the Shattergard
film, more food, more Band-aids, etc., are of a higher priority though. We
are working our tails off to reach the 20% equity mark to get rid of the PMI
extortion as well. I still have an ASSA lock to install on the shelter door,
and one to put into the basement door. Other projected door enhancements include
armor plates for the front, outside basement, shelter, and outside storage
doors. There just never seems to be enough $ to go around, does there?
The other major source of fireworks during the home design/build was on-demand
water heaters. Having taken a 30 minute hot shower with one in Germany for
5 marks while on an FTX, I well understand what a brilliant piece of technology
they are. TLSU, having never been outside of CONUS cannot give up on the electric
water heater. She still doesn’t believe that the electricity will ever
go out for more than an hour or two. Wouldn’t it be great to be able
to draw hot water at the kitchen sink, and take a hot shower from a propane
fired on-demand heater? She doesn’t get it yet. Obviously not something
to break up a marriage over. We really did very well on the whole house building
thing. The opposite of what everyone warned us about. I am pretty proud of
that performance!
Food
We started a garden this spring. So far, it is an endeavor run by TLSU. Spinach,
onions, carrots, lettuce, potatoes, beets, and some herbs. I have not been
able to convince her to expand the size. She wants to learn in steps and I
am the whacko that orders 100 seedlings at a time from the conservation department,
which then overwhelms us in the planting department. For example, the first
iteration of this tree-planting endeavor, we got them the Thursday before Easter
weekend. Friday night and all day Saturday we planted our buns off. TLSU was
indeed a great Trooper about it, planting right along with me. Sunday was spent
at church
and pigging out at family’s homes for Easter. Monday I had shoulder surgery
to grind off bone spurs and remove cartilage chips. Too much, too fast. But
at 7 FRNs per 12 seedlings, how can you argue? I have to admit though, that
after two years of the 100 seedlings, I am ready to give it a rest. This year
we settled for seven apple saplings. Initial inspection of the cherry, pecan,
oak, walnut and persimmon seedlings around the house reveals about an 80% survival
rate. Only another 10 years and we will be getting food from them!
The initial freeze dried and bulk storage food needs to be rotated. Anyone
figured out how to do this kind of at home cooking when the two of you work?
The canned/”normal” food is now being rotated with each grocery
store trip. We have canning jars for this year’s veggies and the root
cellar has a robust collection of shelves to store them on. How much is enough?
I
don’t know. Four geographically separate and secure stashes of three
year’s
worth of food for all of the family? Who knows!?
Medical
I have Boo-boo kits just about everywhere now. You know, the band-aid and antibiotic
salve with ibuprofen kit that handles 90% of life’s issues in this area.
Now comes the high-dollar investment stuff. The combat blow-out packs for gunshot
wounds or serious car wrecks. I did go along on a buying trip to a medical
warehouse and got some catheters, sutures, gauze pads, etc.. I did get in on
the last great iodine buy before our loving big brother government banned the
sale of iodine to us mere citizens. (It is a stewable ingredient to make drugs,
you know – “we must deprive/punish all to protect you from a few.
Oh, well, you don’t need to be able to sterilize water anyway – we’ll
take care of you on that too….”)
TLSU and I eat very healthy food – locally raised beef with no antibiotics
or growth hormones. No growth hormone dairy products from a local dairy. Spinach
from the garden. There are sugar detectors on the doors. Also, no chips allowed.
We get to the dentist regularly. We both do Physical Training (PT)
. She jogs 3 miles, 3-4 times per week. I run over lunch at work about 4 miles,
4-5 times
per week
and
lift
weights twice per week.
“Needed Still” list includes: Blow out kits, more bandages, more
hospital type stuff, more medicines, syrup of ipecac, more antibiotics, more
feminine
stuff (think of a vaginal yeast infection with no drug store open), drinking
alcohol, poison Ivy soap and remedies, athlete’s foot cream, more baby
wipes, more hand sanitizer, all forms of baby stuff, get the bone spur ground
smooth in my other shoulder and the cartilage chips taken out, get rid of the
cat (allergies).
Vehicles
We still have the same vehicles we had in 2001. A 1998 Toyota Corolla bought
with 30,000 miles, and a 1999 Ford Explorer bought with 45,000 miles. Both
were
paid in full when bought. Both avoided the 25% loss of value when driving a
new car off the lot. The Corolla gets 37 MPG.
I hate it. Every bit of plastic on it has broken – the car door locking
mechanisms, the trunk lock, the ventilation system fan. It gets 37 MPG. I can’t
find anything to touch that. The Ford is too big to get decent mileage, and
too small to really be
a useful truck. It is paid for and has AWD/4WD.
It always starts. Both vehicles have BIBs and gas masks in them. Both have
trunk guns. Both have roadside gear
to help ourselves out of a jam. We are saving for the replacement of them both.
We are going to be saving for quite a while. We need more cash in the BIBs
and Bug Out Bags (BOBs)
All of the preps in this section were done via Cabela points. I bought gas
and paid for business expenses - everything I could pay for with a credit card
was paid for with the Cabela’s credit card. You get points at some sickening
rate of $.01/FRN spent, $.02/FRN in the store. However, when you buy $6-8,000/month
of stuff between personal and business stuff, it adds up! The gear for the
BOBs & BIBs, weapons gear and parts – a significant percentage – 85%+
- came from Cabela [credit card bonus] points. When I got birthday or Christmas
monetary gifts I spent them on self-reliance items. We did this never incurring
any
interest
penalties because we zero the balance out each month. Our BOBs are set-up to
sustain us for 10 days. They are packed in Cabela’s wet bags for load
out in five minutes. Originally I sought to wear a tactical vest and ruck.
After two unsuccessful winter BOB campouts where I could barely waddle one
mile with
both of them on at the same time, I dropped the vest. TLSU’s back is
in tough shape due to scoliosis, so she is not humping any mammoth rucks with
the extra three mortar rounds and can of 7.62 linked. We also decided that
the G21 was what she could carry and dropped the SKS and chest pouches of 10
round stripper clips. Her ruck is a Camelback Commander. That is as big of
a ruck as she can hope to carry without killing her back. We are not leaving
home to go on a combat patrol in Hit or Fallujah. We are fleeing some kind
danger and have every intention of avoiding additional entanglements, to include
government hospitality suites in stadiums.
The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU)
I started self-reliance the wrong way. No consensus development. I saw a danger
and acted. I am a male/sheepdog/warrior type. I am not sure that I could have
ever persuaded her to participate in any meaningful manner before Y2K. She
has only recently begun to do so after eight years of seeing me provide for
and protect her. I was, however, stubborn/strong enough to do what I thought
was
the right thing and to heck with what was popular. Most “males” check
their gender specific anatomical gear at the wedding alter and continue on
in sheeple status. I get that females are the nurturers. I get that they work
from an emotional starting point, not logical. Not wanting the tornado to destroy
the house or the hurricane to wreck your and the adjoining three counties is,
at best, the French method of addressing life. TLSU is finally helping me to
rotate food via the grocery store purchases. She no longer rolls her eyes or
sighs disgustedly when I spend my Cabela points to buy gear. Once I explained
to her that I was planning to shelter and feed her parents and siblings and
that our one year of food wasn’t going to feed all of them for very long,
she started to get on board. She even likes spending the points off of her
Cabela’s card now. She is running 3-4 times per week and gets some PT
from work outside in the garden. She has come a long way. As best as I can
tell, she will not ever be a warrior. We have come a substantial distance from
sleeping on the couch each time a self-reliance topic hits the table of discussion
though. A definite and growing check mark in the “W” column!
Skills
Skills that I have acquired:
Rifles – renovating Mausers and training at Thunder Ranch helps
your ability to use these tools immensely.
Soldering – fixing plumbing leaks myself vs. paying a plumber $200
to show up and start billing me for work
Building – I invested 13 full work weeks of time during the building
of our home helping the contractor. Some of it was the nubby work of cleaning
up the scrap and sawdust. Some of it was banging in joist hangers. I laid
all the tile and 95% of the wood flooring in the house.
Fix-it – the DR Brush mower has long passed it’s warranty
period and while performing quite admirably, does need attention every now
and then.
The 1974 F100 demands attention regularly. Each of these repair work challenges
teaches me a little more about mechanical items and taking care of things
myself.
Sewing – Yes, my dear Grandmother taught me to sew buttons, and
my Mom taught me to survival sew/repair things. A 1960 gear driven Singer sews
nylon
gear though!; )
Skills still needed:
More First Aid – it appears that a first responder or wilderness 1st
aid course may be in the cards for this year.
More Hand to Hand – my goals and objectives list has had this goal
on it for several years. Good news – I got started on knocking it off the
list. Bad news, it revealed an “old man” shortcoming in my shoulder.
Good news, I am getting the shoulder fixed (hopefully) during “normal” times
versus after Schumerization. I just may get ambushed and not have my trusty
M1A in hand. Having unarmed defense skills means never having to be a steak
dinner/victim.
More riflesmithing – each birthday or Christmas gift of money has
been partially apportioned to the purchase of gunsmithing tooling. I need more
practice
with the tools I have. I still need more tooling. I recently secured Parkerizing
gear, but have not gotten the metal stands for the tanks built. Still,
progress is progress and I can already do more to maintain weapons than
95% of the
population.
Knife making – I just cringe at the idea of spending $300 for top
quality knives. CRKT is my friend. Even better is learning to assemble the
scales and
blank myself. Eventually, knowing how to forge blanks myself would be useful.
Mill lumber – with 95% of my property wooded, I have the material
to be self-reliant with regard to my lumber needs. I need a way to saw the
tree into lumber though. First, the mill, then the skill to use it. Then
I have
the gear to diversify my income and help others.
Have I always done the smartest thing? Absolutely not! Much to the crazed
satisfaction of a former operator buddy, I have cycled through the “best/high
dollar” gear
approach to the “sack of hammers USGI/AK” school of self-reliance.
Don’t get me wrong – I ain’t surrendering my Kifaru rucks
anytime soon! However, there were a great number of FRNs spent on those self-reliance
tuition payments! Have I learned a lot? Absolutely, yes! Am
I better able to maintain my independence and protect and provide for my
family? Absolutely,
yes! Could you do better than I did? Good chance. Have you
done as much as I have in the last 10 years? Only your freedom, loved ones,
and the quality
of your life post-TEOTWAWKI depend on the answer to that one.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: E85 Ethanol Compatible Vehicles »
Letter Re: For Want of Battery
Hello Jim,
To follow up on your recent post, I just wanted to let readers of the blog
know that Northern
Tool & Equipment is having a sale on their solar panels right now.
All-Battery.com
is also having
a major sale on battery chargers and some other items as well. These can be
significant
savings for anyone needing these items. - Jeff in Ohio
« Letter Re: Neighbors and Friends are Failing to Adapt and Prepare for New Threats |Main| Note from JWR: »
Some Preparedness Implications of Rapidly Escalating Fuel Prices
The recent jump in fuel prices are going to have some far reaching effects
on our economy. There is speculation
that crude oil may soon spike to $150 to $170 per barrel. As prepared individuals,
we need to adapt our plans, accordingly. It is noteworthy that
many of us long
hence
foresaw these dark days, and
installed
underground
fuel tanks, bought alternate fuel vehicles, multi-fuel generators, and at least
one vehicle just for the sake of fuel economy. (If you look at the Retreat
Owner Profiles--most
of which were written in late 2005 and early 2006--you will
see a remarkable number of fuel-efficient "secondary" vehicles.) SurvivalBlog
readers plan ahead, and it shows.
In a recent issue of The
Daily Reckoning, Bill Bonner wrote: "Just on Thursday
and Friday of last week, wholesale gasoline prices went up 33 cents. No typo.
That’s 33 cents, in two days. So let’s round
it out and add another $500 to the annual gasoline bill to operate one average
automobile in the US of A. If you are a two-car household, make that number
$1,000. Just from a two-day spike. And that does not count the impact on diesel
(killing trucking and agriculture) and jet fuel (killing airlines)."
Effectively, the recent price jumps will be like inflationary snorts
of cocaine. Sooner or later, the higher cost of fuel will be "passed
through" to consumers.
Can you imagine what will happen to the retail price of just about everything if
and when the price of gas tops $5.50 per gallon? Transportation cost increases
are significant, but will impact some product prices more than others. The
heavier and bulkier the item, or the farther it must travel (all the way from
raw material
to your doorstep) the greater the impact of the fuel price jumps. (One hint:
If you've been planning to buy a gun vault, then buy it soon,
and do so locally,
from inventory that your dealer already has on hand. If you delay, it will
likely cost $200 more, this time next year.) What will happen to Fed-Ex , UPS,
and US Postal Service rates next year? It won't
be
pretty.
OBTW,
if
you
are thinking about setting up a home-based mail order business, then you'd
had better
consider focusing on small and lightweight products, such as used
DVDs.
Think through what the fuel prices will do for various product prices and
availability (think: spot shortages), and who they will affect life at your
retreat.
I predict that there will be a long lag time while the price of propane catches
up to the prices of other fuels. The cost of electricity will also lag behind,
especially in regions that have predominately hydroelectric power. In the long
run, however,
prices will undoubtedly catch up. Exploit this lag time to build up the alternative
energy potential of your retreat. Think through you options, do some comparison
pricing,
and then get busy. (Consider the merits and drawbacks of photovoltaics, wind,
micro-hydro,
bio-gas, biodiesel, geothermal, wood-fired steam/co-generation, and so forth.)
Vehicles
If you are planning to buy additional vehicles for your retreat, consider
the following:
One of your vehicles should be a
very fuel-efficient runabout. (Something
like a used Geo Metro or Toyota Corolla--but for serious preparedness planning
avoid the high cost and complexity of a hybrid.) If you need four wheel drive,
consider buying a used Subaru. Notably, Subaru all-wheel-drive cars are the
most popular cars with America's contract rural mail carriers.
Also consider
getting
a mo-ped
or
motorcycle
for
handling some
of your errands in the current pre-Schumeresque times.
Look for a fleet surplus propane-powered pickup. (Utility
companies often use these. Watch for auction announcements.) If you could get
one that
is 4WD,
that would be ideal. But even if you can't find one that is 4WD, one option
is finding
a
4WD of
the
same
year
and the same maker as your 2WD propane-engine
truck, and then combining parts to create a "Frankentruck."
Not only would this be great mechanical experience, but it will leave you with
another
nearly
complete
vehicle
to cannibalize
for spare parts. Another option, albeit more expensive, is converting
an existing 4WD to propane. Because
Propane tanks are large, this is best accomplished with a 4WD pickup. (I have
seen pairs of 47-gallon capacity "torpedo tanks" installed above
the wheel wells in a pickup box. This allows nearly full use of the pickup
bed space.) Since a propane conversion will likely void a warranty, it is best
done with an
older
vehicle that
is "out of warranty". Speaking of propane, don't miss the recent
piece by FerFAL, (SurvivalBlog's correspondent
in Argentina),
posted
at his
personal blog
site: Alternative
fuel for your car. It describes a gaz naturel comprimé (GNC)
conversion done on his Korean import car.
Own at least one E85-compatible "Flex Fuel" vehicle (FFV).
If your budget allows it, consider getting an electric vehicle.
(Several times in SurvivalBlog, I've mentioned Bad
Boy Buggy electric ATVs as well as ATV
suspension conversions for electric golf carts.) An electric ATV makes an
ideal "at the retreat " utility vehicle, particularly for someone that
has a
large
alternate power system with a battery bank.
Here is one vehicle possibility that might at first seem counterintuitive:
There will probably be thousands of used recreational vehicles (RVs)
hitting the market in the next few years--some for pennies on the dollar. Budget-minded
preppers might consider buying an older RV to live in, while building
their retreats. Just keep in mind that the resale value will likely drop to
nearly nothing
if gas
prices continue to escalate, so only buy one if you can truly get it dirt
cheap.
Horse Power
For the really long term, learn as much as you can about horses, and change
your purchasing plans is this approach matches your needs and the pasture carrying
capacity of your retreat. There is a lot to this: horsemanship, hay cutting
(preferably horse-powered), hay
storage,
pasture
fencing, a barn,
tack,
veterinary
supplies,
and so forth. Here at the Rawles
Ranch, our saddle horse Money Pit may soon have
some new friends in the pasture.
Hay and grain prices have been sky high for a full year now, so this
has pushed the price of horses down tremendously. At present, in much of
the western
US, good saddle saddle horses are literally being given away. Just ask around.
If you are not yet an experienced rider, then limit your search to older, gentle
"bomb proof" mares or geldings. If you have plenty of pasture and hay ground, take
advantage of the current low prices for horses.
Buy them while they're cheap. Watch your newspaper classified ads and Craig's
List for horses as as well as tack, hay mowers, and a horse trailer. In addition
to saddle horse, think in terms of working horses. So while you are
searching for
saddles,
also
look
for wagons, buck boards, horse collars, long reins, log chains, and other
work horse tack.
Fuel Storage
Storing extra fuel is a natural for family preparedness. If you use propane,
consider buying a larger tank. That fuel will be like money in the bank. Ditto
for gasoline and diesel fuel. (See the SurvivalBlog archives for details on
fuel stabilizers and and antibacterial additives. (The latter is for diesel.
Yes, bacteria will actually grow in diesel fuel.) What size tank(s)? The
bigger, the better. That way you can buy during occasional dips
in the
market as well as have a reserve that will help ride through any spot shortages.
Consult you local fire code for any limits where you live. I generally prefer
underground tanks, for both OPSEC and
fire safety.
Generators
Needless to say, flexibility will be your goal with your backup generator(s).
Various diesel generator and tri-fuel
generators have already been discussed at length
in
SurvivalBlog. Despite its current high price tag, diesel is still a viable
fuel for standby generators. Keep in mind that you can legally burn less expensive
off-road (untaxed) diesel, biodiesel, and even home heating oil in your diesel
genset. (Of course consult your state
and local laws before doing so.)
Retreat Locales
Higher fuel costs will likely change the way the at you look at your retreat,
and where it is located. If you are retired, self-employed, or if you telecommute,
the impact won't be nearly so great. You can simply adapt your lifestyle to
make trips into town less often. But if you have a daily job "in town",
then the impact could be substantial. The whole concept of "public
transportation" is foreign to folks that live in places like Wyoming or the
Dakotas. Even
carpooling
can be difficult for people that live in lightly populated areas. OBTW, speaking
of carpooling, I predict that both carpooling and ride sharing will undergo
a great resurgence in the next few years. The information networking power
of
the Internet
will
undoubtedly
be put to full use in matching drivers/riders and destinations. The carpooling
networking sites like SpaceShare and
eRideShare will probably
become very popular.
Remote properties will seem even more remote when gas tops $5 per
gallon. This has both positive and negative implications. The good news is
that it
will make remote
properties more affordable and will also make them less likely to fall prey
to "commuter criminals" and looters. But the bad news is if you are
trapped in a corporate job and must commute to work. Ditto for farmers and
ranchers
that
must get
what
they
produce to market.
If you have not yet bought a retreat, then you might want to make
the new fuel cost paradigm a more important part of your locale selection process.
As I've
mentioned before in
SurvivalBlog, if you do some concerted searching, you might be ale to find
a piece of land with a low-volume natural gas well, or a surface coal seam.
Another possibility is finding a property with a large year-round stream and
sufficient change in elevation ("fall") allowing installation of
a micro-hydro system. If you are an adherent to Peak
Oil theory, then you might consider buying
a retreat that is close to a community in a truck farming region--someplace
that can expected to be self-sufficient in the event of chronic gas and diesel
shortages. There are of course security trade-offs, so
such a decision
might be a momentous
one to make. (Since most survivalists value having "elbow room".)
« Two Letters Re: Advice on Backup Power for a Ranch in Western Canada |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: For Want of a Battery
Mr. Rawles:
I was working through my "List of Lists" yesterday, and a thought
struck me like a lightning bolt: Without batteries--lots of
rechargeable batteries--I'm hosed. There
are so many items that I'll depend on in an emergency that need batteries:
My weather radio, Kenwood
MURS handhelds (thanks for that suggestion,
BTW), starlight scope,
and my
flashlights. (And thanks also for your suggestion of IR [flashlight]
filters). Without [those battery-powered items as] "force multipliers",
I'd be at huge disadvantage to looters, who could be wandering the countryside
in droves, if and when it all hits the fan. So, with that realization, I'm
investing in a small [photovoltaic]
solar panel [for
battery
charging], and a boatload of NiMH batteries.
Do you still recommend All-Battery [as
a supplier]? And who sells a small panel--say 5 to 10 watts--that
is reliable
and weather-tight?
The battery situation reminds me of that old poem: "For
want of a nail, the shoe was lost..." Thanks In Advance, - George L.
JWR Replies: Yes, All-Battery.com is
an excellent source. If you can afford to, buy a triple or quadruple set
for each piece of gear that takes batteries. (Even if you don't use them
all yourself, the extra batteries will be ideal to keep on hand for barter
and charity.) You
are correct in mentioning the NiMH low self-discharge (LSD) technology (such
as the Sanyo Eneloop). It is currently the most reliable
rechargeable
battery on
the
market.
As I've mentioned in the blog before, if you cannot afford a large battery
bank of deep cycle batteries, then at least buy a "jump pack" 12 VDC gel cell
unit. These are
available with either110 VAC (US/Canada) and 220
VAC (UK) utility power charging cords. You can then plug in a
12VDC "smart" battery charging tray (using a DC power cord with
cigarette lighter plug.) That is far more efficient than using an AC inverter
and then a DC transformer
(like those in most home battery chargers) That way you
are just changing one DC
voltage
to another DC voltage--instead
of a DC inverted -to-AC-and-transformed-back-to-DC proposition. (Which is very inefficient.)
To
keep your "jump pack" charged, I recommend the small PV panels available
from Northern
Tool & Equipment--one of our Affiliate
Advertisers. Once you are at Northern Tool's web site, search on Item
# 339973.
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Two Letters Re: Advice on Backup Power for a Ranch in Western Canada
Hi Jim,
Regarding the Canadian who was wondering about wind power versus diesel. The
Windmill is a good idea if he uses an Amateur Radio "Crankover" type
tower, better than the crank up towers [usually sold for small] windmills.
However,
there
is a caveat: If [the reader in Canada] goes with wind power, then have
a spare. If he can [afford to] put up two windmills, then buy three,
when he buys them[, which will provide one as a spare]. Even a bird hit on
a reasonably modern
power
generating windmill will cause mucho damage.
Just my humble opinion.
I had L-16 battery problems at the ranch this year for the first time in
10 years. Then I figured out the -60 F temps for nine nights was likely the
cause. Oh well, stuff happens, corrective actions are underway.
Regards, - The Army Aviator
Dear Jim,
Things have changed a bit [in recent years on wind generator reliability].
Yes, old school turbines with folding vanes are a pain, but there is a wind
unit
on
the market
that
is darn
near
bullet-proof
(in fact, I came up with a mod for that too.) They have been flown in hurricanes
and are being used in Iraq, where high gusts and debilitating dust are the
norm, never mind broiling heat. They keep ticking
over, no problems and turn out juice in slow to screaming wind. They are the
Hornet Series [from Hydrogen Appliances]
Essentially, they took a standard wind genny and beefed it up, almost to Russian-type
specs. They just built everything another 20-50% thicker, wider, etc. then
they had to. They are little beasts.
For any maintenance issues that might come up (rare) the best bet is to install
them on a tip up tower. They can be lowered and raised with a come along or
horses or whatever if necessary. Regards, - Mosby
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: An Oil Trader's Observations on the Market Implications of War with Iraq »
Letter Re: Advice on Backup Power for a Ranch in Western Canada
Hello,
I'm debating with myself. Do I install wind power or purchase and fill another
diesel tank? The wind power would be the best investment, but my concern is
the wind tower would be a giant sign that a prepared person lives here. I live
in the middle of the Canadian west 10 miles from a town of 1,000 people 40
miles from a city of 25,000 people and 250 miles from a city of 400,000 people.
I own 1,000 acres and my yard is in the middle. Does the distance from large
population give me enough protection to install the wind power?
I think the only drawbacks of my location is winter and the government.
We are working on changing the government. I also think plenty of water is
a good
trade for winter.
OBTW, I would be willing to lease land at a discounted price
to any reader who is interested.
Thanks for your help. - Ethan.
JWR Replies: I only expect fuel prices to continue to escalate,
so simply adding more diesel tank storage space might be a mistake. But so
might be getting a wind generator. Let me explain: As I describe in my preparedness
novel "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse", small wind generators
are generally more trouble than they are worth. They tend to fail in high winds,
usually
in the dead
of winter. If a wind generator's automatic prop feathering mechanism, or
its tail-vane flipping mechanism fail, a generator can run over speed during
high wind
gusts, and tear itself apart. This happens with alarming frequency. Who
wants to climb a tower and work with hand tools to swap brushes or other
parts
at
a time
like
that?
For
the
past
25 years,
the
cost-per-watt
for photovoltaic (PV)
panels has come down steadily, but meanwhile both the cost-per-watt and
the reliability of wind
generators
has remained
about the same. Also consider the safety factor. Raising or lowering any
large wind generator from a tower is a tricky operation. In the present
day, I would recommend hiring a crane company to do so. In the event of
TEOTWAWKI,
where no mechanized help would be available, you would have to do it yourself,
and that could
be a real risk. And of course there is the OPSEC factor
if there are any public roads with line-of-sight to your property. That
is probably not an issue--since your home is in the middle of a 1,000 acre
parcel, but it could be a issue for many other retreat owners.
Even
at your high
latitude,
it might be
more cost-effective
to use PVs. Talk it over with an alternative energy pro, like Bob Grizwald
(with Ready
Made Resources) or
Steve Willey (with Backwoods
Solar Electric Systems.)
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Physical Gold Versus Electronic Gold »
Letter Re: Can I Burn Home Heating Oil or Kerosene in a Diesel Engine?
James:
Your article today about diesel vehicles still providing long term cost
savings was quite interesting. The question I have, and perhaps [shared by]
some of your readers is this: is home heating oil and kerosene acceptable
fuel
for
a diesel
engine? - Thanks, - Jim G.
JWR Replies: Home heating oil burns fine in any diesel engine,
but in may countries it is not legal to do so in a vehicle that is driven on
public roads. This is a "road tax"
issue. Aside for a red dye additive, the formulation of home heating oil
is almost identical to the diesel that was made before the recent advent
of Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD). The only significant difference between
the two is the Federal standard on ash content.
Kerosene is a different matter. Kerosene has insufficient lubricity to be
used just by itself in a diesel engine. I have also read that it burns hotter
than
diesel, so it might harm injectors. However, this is largely a non-issue in
all but exceptional circumstances, since kerosene typically sells for as as
much as one dollar more per gallon than
diesel. But in an an emergency, it is presumably safe to mix as much as 20%
kerosene with your diesel and not cause excessive engine wear. And, BTW,
the aforementioned road tax is also an issue for kerosene.
To explain the road tax: In the US, Canada, the UK, and several
other countries it is not legal to use dyed (untaxed) fuel in a vehicle
that is driven on public roads.
Of
course
if you are using the fuel in a generator set, or in an off-road vehicle such
as a tractor, you can't
be accused of cheating on the road tax. The two types of diesel fuel are distinguished
by the dye additive. In the US, there is no dye added to road-taxed diesel. Enforcement
of these statutes varies widely, but the fines can be substantial,
so stay legal.
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Technology After TEOTWAWKI, by JLG in Texas
"A wise man has great power, and a man of knowledge increases strength;
for waging war you need guidance, and for victory many advisers." (Proverbs
24:5-6)
Most survivalist planning focuses on physical needs—food, shelter, clothing,
first aid, self defense. While the physical essentials rightly belong at the
top of the list, there's almost always some empty space left in the locker/bunker/trailer/back-of-the-truck
for...something. What to put in there?
Human beings are social animals, and we need each other; God has woven this
into our genetic code. A "Lone Ranger" survivalist might have an
edge in the short-term, but a group of survivors has a distinct long-term advantage—if
they can overcome the challenges. Other than basic supply-scale issues, the
primary challenges facing larger groups center around communication issues—making
sure everyone is fully informed and knows The Plan. Communication helps build
trust, and trust-based relationships are exactly what you need as a survivor—whether
you're dealing with your family, or with the family down the road, in the next
county, or across the globe.
One of the reasons I enjoy being a technology consultant is the fact that technology
brings people together. Postal mail, telephone, fax, mobile phones, email,
text messaging, videoconferencing, two-way radios...you name it, it's basically
about human communication. As I formulate and revise my overall survival plan,
I find myself evaluating various technology gadgets in this light: Would this
gizmo (whatever it is) provide communication benefits to me if I were in survival
mode, and, if so, is it feasible and reasonable to utilize it in that capacity?
Note that what is "feasible" and "reasonable" are almost
completely subjective, depending on the skill set of the particular individual
or group—those who have a "techno-wiz" or two in their midst
can obviously support more complex technology than others. By evaluating your
group's capacity for utilizing technology, and carefully selecting from some
proven technologies, you can improve your survival capabilities in numerous
ways by improving your ability to communicate within your group of survivors,
be it large or small, and increase your access to outside resources. Here are
some ideas:
Get your ears on. The mobile phone infrastructure may or may not be operational,
and even if it is, your survival retreat might not have decent reception—so
don't count on it. If your group consists of more than one person, odds are
that you will need to split up at some point, and radio communications give
you a huge advantage in almost every situation—especially if you run
up against an aggressor. Anything is better than nothing, so at least grab
a set of inexpensive "bubble pack" FRS/GMRS radios.
Better still, see if you can develop a relationship with a like-minded radio
guy in your
area, and draw upon his expertise. Find yourself an expert and get educated.[JWR
Adds: See the ARRL for a directory that will include a ham radio club
in your area.]
Get eyes in the back of your head...or house. A good survival retreat includes
a security system, and this is a great place to leverage technology. D-Link,
TrendNet and others make decent network cameras, both wired and wireless, for
around $100 each. You can string network wires through the trees, direct-bury,
or go wireless. Virtually any inexpensive wireless access point (e.g., Linksys/Netgear/D-Link
cable/DSL routers, Apple AirPorts, etc.) can be used to provide a basic communications
network for wireless cameras. Using multiple cameras with software like Security
Spy for Macs or NCH
Software for Windows, one person
with a laptop computer can cover a lot of ground just sitting in a chair. You
can even configure the software's motion detection features to alert you (by
making a noise, flashing the screen, etc.) when anything moves, so the man
on duty doesn't have to keep his eyes glued to the screen. Much of this equipment
runs on 12 VDC, so it's perfect for photovoltaic-powered systems.
Own the night. Get some night vision equipment. Others have written extensively
and with much more knowledge on the subject than I possess, but if you can
see in the dark, you have a huge advantage over the guy who can't. Find yourself
an expert and get educated. 'Nuff said. [JWR Adds: One night
vision gear vendor that I recommend is JRH
Enterprises.}
Get connected. What happens to the internet after TEOTWAWKI?
A safe assumption is that the Internet will be unreliable at best, and possibly
unusable. This
may be true to varying degrees on a global or regional scale, but understand
that the internet itself is simply a conglomeration of smaller networks. If
you've built a security network like the one mentioned above, you can use point-to-point
wireless links to connect your survival retreat with your closest like-minded
neighbor (you do know your neighbors, right?), so you can communicate more
quickly and easily. Remember, there is strength in numbers—especially
when you can maintain good communications. What's more, if you build a "mesh" of
interconnected networks, if just one location has internet access, those communication
and information resources immediately become available to the entire mesh.
Remember all those survivalblog.com articles you always meant to print out
but never did? If the server is still online, now you can get to them!
The least expensive wireless point-to-point equipment is generally going to
be a pair of weatherproofed 802.11b/g radios hooked to a directional antennas.
The disadvantage to this configuration is that 802.11b/g is a "line-of-sight" technology
that uses microwave frequencies—so, anything that would heat up in a
microwave oven will attenuate the signal. Thus, if your two locations are
separated by foliage or terrain, you'll have to get those antennas up over
the treetops.
Not only is that a hassle, but it's also a very easy way for non-friendlies
to locate your retreat. In that case, you'd be better off utilizing more specialized
equipment from a manufacturer like Motorola or Trango. It's pricier, but it's
non-line-of-sight (NLOS)
and will shoot through trees.
Light 'em up! A good solar power system is a great addition to a survival retreat
in any case, but it becomes a necessity if you want to leverage electrically-powered
technology. A basic solar power plant is comprised of one or more photovoltaic
(PV) solar panels, which generate electric current whenever they're exposed
to light, one or more deep-cycle batteries to store the excess power for later
use, and
electronics to regulate the voltage and manage the battery charging. Power
is usually delivered at 12 VDC, which can be converted to 120 VAC using an
inverter—though it's more efficient to simply use equipment that will
run on 12 VDC. Don't skimp on photovoltaic gear, and I recommend sizing your
solar panels to at least double your usage projections. For one thing, you'll
always
want more juice than you think you'll need. For another thing, many vendors
quote solar panel performance based on best-case conditions, and even if they
regionalize their numbers for the amount of daylight in your area, they typically
use an average length-of-day instead of the shortest length-of-day, and they
either ignore or underestimate the effects of cloudy days, dust coating, bird
feces, etc. on PV panel performance. Solar power is quiet, too, so you won't
be giving away your position with a noisy generator. [JWR Adds: One
alternative energy system vendor that I recommend is Ready
Made Resources Also, don't overlook the references available at SolarDoc, at Backwoods
Home magazine, and at Home
Power magazine.]
Protect your equipment against electromagnetic pulse (EMP).
The general effects of EMP are fairly well documented, but the specific effects
of EMP on various types of electronic
equipment, and the most effective ways of protecting that equipment, are not
so well-documented. EMP is surrounded by misinformation, urban legend, and
simple unknowns. Most "experts" on EMP seem to agree that the most
straightforward way to protect equipment is probably to store it inside a "Faraday
box," which could be made by lining the inside of a metal filing cabinet
with several layers of newspaper, or wrapping a cardboard box with a couple
layers of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Stored in these containers, your electronic
equipment is reasonably protected against EMP. Note that I said "reasonably." When
we're talking about EMP, we're talking about nuclear attack, and survivability—for
electronics and people alike—is obviously highly dependent on where you
are in relation to ground zero, so all you can do is make reasonable preparations
and pray to God for grace.
Only you can determine whether or not the benefits of these technologies are
worth the money and effort in your particular survival plan. If you decide
to utilize any particular technology, I highly recommend building and testing
the system now, before it's needed. And, of course, you should always have
a "Plan B" for those times when—not if, but when—the
technology fails. EMP, rainwater in the wrong place, a broken wire, and a dead
battery all have the same end result—dead equipment—and you need
to plan for it. Note, too, that the ideas presented here were kept to a basic
level of information due to the limited scope of this article—each topic
would easily merit a fairly lengthy book, if not a complete volume, in order
to be explored to a satisfactory degree—so I strongly encourage you to
seek further knowledge in those systems that are of interest to you.
Again: Find yourself an expert and get educated. If you're an expert in one
or more survival fields, find someone who wants to be educated and teach them.
Being a survivalist doesn't mean you have to be antisocial. Remember that part
of your survival plan should involve building relationships with like-minded
people who have, among them, a diverse enough skill set to be able to handle
the widest possible range of survival tasks. One of the primary uses of communications
technology, aside from its immediate tactical use, is to build and maintain
these kinds of relationships even (or especially) in a survival scenario."Two
are better than one, because they have a good return for their work: If one
falls down, his friend can help him up. But pity the man who falls and has
no-one to help him up! Also, if two lie down together, they will keep warm.
But how can one keep warm alone? Though one may be overpowered, two can defend
themselves. A cord of three strands is not quickly broken." (Ecclesiastes
4:9-12)
Here is a non-exhaustive list of Internet resources, to help get you started:
Night vision:
Sideroad.com
N)Vision
Optics Planet
Point-to-point and outdoor wireless:
Radio Labs
Trango Broadband
Motorola
PTP
MoonBlink
Wi-Fi
Teletronics
Photovoltaic power:
Solar Power Directory
Solar-Electric
EMP protection:
AusSurvivalist EMP Protection Pages
Faraday Cages
1997
Military EMP Hardening Handbook
Parrhesia.com
EMP Hardening Handbook
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Letter Re: Advice on Stocking Up on Batteries
Sir;
I was wondering: How many batteries should I store for all my radios, flashlights,
smoke detectors, and so forth? I'm also planning to get night vision goggles,
soon. I assume rechargeables, right? If so, what kind [of rechargeables], and
who has
the
best prices? - T.E.
in
Memphis.
JWR Replies: I recommend buying mainly nickel metal hydride
(NiMH) batteries. Stock up plenty of them, including some extras for
barter and charity. Unlike the older Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) technology, NiMHs
do not have
a "memory" effect.
(The diminished capacity because of the memory effect has always been one
of the greatest drawbacks to NiCds batteries.) The best of the breed are the latest Low Self Discharge (LSD) variants, such as the Sanyo Eneloop.
One discount supplier with a
very good selection that I can enthusiastically recommend is All-Battery.com.
They
also have great prices on "throw away" batteries, such a lithium CR-123s.
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Two Letters Re: Observations on a Tour of a Telephone Company Central Office
James:
The batteries are why the phone still works when the power goes out. That
is if you still have an old style (hard wire) phone and not all cordless
phones. The cordless phones need 120 VAC power to run the base station. You
should maintain at least one all wire somewhere in your house.
I believe the [common design for COs is that the] whole building is built in
such a way that it is a big Faraday
Cage. It would take a pretty close proximity
EMP to take one
out.
The
EMP
danger is in the above ground wiring [and antennas].
Most of this kind of engineering is done for lighting protection, but it is
something of an EMP protection as well. That is [on reason why they are continuing
to switch to underground wiring, even on expensive long[er] distance routes.
The switch to fiber optics helps here also, even though the main rationale
for its adoption was capacity and cost.
The phone companies are some of the most engineering conservative utilities
in this country. When I worked with them, everything was "double built". 100
percent redundancy.
And they are learning a lot fast about “hardening” their properties.
Some of the upgrades I have seen done inside those little brick buildings spread
around the country make them into pillboxes. - Keith S.
Hi Jim,
I saw the stuff about phone Central Offices (COs) and thought I would contribute
a bit as well since this is a part of my area of specialty. Many times
people have
these nearby and are unaware of them. They look like a generic office building
- most have few or no windows and are most often brick, concrete or concrete
block. They are generally unobtrusive and sometimes do not even have the
company logo on them. They are made this way because they house what is considered
critical communications infrastructure and because they are supposed to be
semi-secure
and protected against all but the very worst mother nature can dish out.
They
are also a desirable target for terrorists, etc. As far as I know it is a
Federal felony to disrupt the operations of one of these buildings so batteries,
generators,
and so forth would be strictly off limits in all but a true TEOTWAWKI situation.
This link has
pictures of COs. If you look at the Kansas page you can see the COs that might
exist in a small town - where they may serve at most a few hundred customers.
The one's
listed
under California (619) might serve a few thousand customers. These buildings
will generally not be more than about 3 to 5 miles apart in suburban areas
and even closer in urban areas so they are quite common, but most people
do not have
a clue where or what they are.
They do have large battery back-ups and larger one's have generators. The
larger one's will also have fuel reservoirs of either diesel, propane or
gasoline
depending on the location, company policy, etc. These are required to keep
the system up
if the grid goes down - however they are only meant for a few days operation
at best on generators. They do change the batteries our regularly because
they have to keep the grid operational. [Their surplus battery sales are] a decent way to get good, used
deep
cycle batteries. The best money can buy. Regards, - Tim P.
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Letter Re: Observations on a Tour of a Telephone Company Central Office
Hi Jim,
I just came back from a tour of one of our local phone company’s central
office (CO) and this is what I learned: Besides finding out how our phone
lines work, I found out that the hardware there runs on 48 volt DC power. There
is a large battery bank in the basement and the batteries are charged by the
grid. It is made up of large clear cylinders and you can see the acid level
and the plates inside. In the case of the grid going down it has a generator
back up. Many of these offices are unmanned. I also found out that there are
many small remote units around that run on a couple of deep cycle batteries
for back up power around town. In the case of a prolonged power outage the
technicians will cycle through the remote units with generators to charge up
the batteries.
I was also surprised at all the circuit boards. An electromagnetic pulse
(EMP) would easily take out [these microcircuit boards, and hence wipe out]
all the phone circuits.
I know that society would have to totally break down in order to make use
of these resources but I bet not too many people know about the battery banks.
Just something to keep in the back of your mind because every town will have
something like this. - Adam in Ohio
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Letter Re: Biodiesel, Retreat Vehicle Fuel Flexibility, and Power Generation
Hello Jim,
I am a prepper who is trying to do so on a very tight budget (wife, four
kids, and two jobs just to make ends meet-you get the idea). Here are some
random ideas that others might find useful.
1) Try drying your own fruits and vegetables for food storage. Whether homegrown
or bought. This can be done inexpensively and dried food takes up very little
storage space.
2) Consider making your own biodiesel. I am in the early stages of doing this
myself. It's not that hard. Just pay attention to detail and do it right. Besides
saving a lot of money now this will also allow you to build up a large amount
of fuel storage for vehicle and generator use inexpensively. This will become
much more critical as fuel prices skyrocket in the future.
3) You need a diesel vehicle to use the biodiesel in. In addition to a diesel
truck, think about getting an older Mercedes Benz diesel car for an everyday
driver
and
second BOV.
Don't laugh. The W123 chassis cars, specifically the 240D and 300D models made
from 1977 to 1985 are built like tanks, lots of space and they are fairly
simple
to
work
on. I am not mechanical at all and plan on doing all the work on mine. DieselGiant.com
has great pictorials and do-it-yourself DVDs
to help you. These cars have no computers
so they should be EMP-proof.
4) If you have a high quality roto-tiller such as a Troy-Bilt or BCS brand (and
you should if your serious about food production) it could be used to earn money/barter.
If things get really hard gardening will make a dramatic comeback. Most people
don't have tillers and there should be a good market tilling ground for people.
Assuming you have enough fuel/spare parts this could make you indispensable in
a small town.
5) A recent [SurvivalBlog] post talked about a vehicle as an improvised generator.
While
probably somewhat inefficient in terms of fuel consumption versus electricity
produced
it
sounds perfect for someone on a budget.
I have two questions: Will running
the inverter straight from the battery prematurely wear out the starter battery
in
the car or should the inverter be wired directly to the battery cables? Will
using this set up overwork the alternator and cause early failure?
Some Useful Web Sites:
UtahBiodieselSupply.com
B100Supply.com
MercedesShop.com
DieselGiant.com
Look at the eBay Motors listings
if you want to see what these Mercedes vehicles look
like.
This is just my little contribution to the blog and I hope others find it
useful., - Jeff S.
JWR Replies: I recommend having at least one diesel tractor,
one utility pickup or quad,
and one diesel car at every retreat. Although they are fairly scarce,
in my experience, a pre-1986 Mercedes
diesel
300D series station wagon (on the W123 chassis) is worth
looking for. These share a common drive train with the much more common 300D
series four-door
sedans,
so parts are
readily
available.
Ready
Made Resources (one of our most loyal advertisers) offers an affordable
small-scale biodiesel making
system. The recent spike in diesel prices will give you a big advantage in
bargaining for a price when buying any diesel vehicle.
In answer to your questions: As long as the engine is left running at low
to moderate
RPMs,
then using a vehicle's alternator as a power source--for either DC loads,
and/or to run a small 120 VAC inverter--will
not cause excessive wear and tear on your battery or alternator. You may have
to rig a manually-controlled set-throttle. Just keep in mind the usual safety
precautions, such as carbon monoxide venting, and making sure that the transmission
lever does not get bumped into "drive". To conserve your precious fuel, it
is probably best to buy a bank of deep cycle ("golf cart") type batteries
that you can charge whenever you run the engine.
Rather than using jumper cable clamps, for safety it is
best
to attached heavy gauge battery cable and terminal
lugs, Use a detachable high-amperage-rated 12 VDC polarity-protected "Pigtail" block
connector, in parallel with your vehicle battery
cables. That way you can quickly disconnect
and still be able drive
your vehicle without a time-consuming cable un-bolting procedure.
Ideally, your
battery
bank will
be the heart of
an
alternative
power system that will
also--as
your
budget eventually
allows--include
some
photovoltaic
panels. (This
online primer is a good starting point.) As previously mentioned, in SurvivalBlog,
for 12 VDC devices "downstream" from your battery bank that draw 30 amps or less,
I
recommend
standardizing
with Anderson
Power Pole connectors rather than flimsy cigarette lighter plugs and jacks.
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Letter Re: Alternative News Sources When The Grid Goes Down
James
In the early 1990s--before Internet was ubiquitous--I remember a well-connected
VHF packet
remailer network that was nearly on par with the old Fidonet dial up network.
Unfortunately while many hams played with packet 15 years ago, the complex
mailbox routing networks are now mostly replaced by the Internet. I don't expect
any data network resembling the Internet to evolve if the grid goes down. This
is not to say that local networks using sound card data modems on CB or FRS radio
or with Wi-Fi gear
might not spring up, but it would be a low priority in both electricity and
time.
HF amateur radio and shortwave radio will be the way to get your world news
if the grid goes down. Buy a radio that will receive upper and lower sideband
(USB/LSB) or you will be limited to megawatt commercial AM stations. (SSB is
used by the power poor.) Set up a proper antenna length for the band you are
listening
to, an antenna tuner is not good enough. Even if people do not want to obtain
their amateur licence it is advisable that they obtain PSK-31
sound card software and a connector cable to decode low power PSK data signals.
PSK-31is nearly
as good as Morse code for punching through noise, much better than voice mode.
For those operating out of a backpack look at this
PSK terminal device. No laptop needed!
Amateur satellite (AmSat)
is fun and a great way to talk worldwide without needing HF gear
but if the grid ever fully went down I would expect satellite tracking stations
to lose control of their satellites as the employees are
detained protecting their families. Most AmSat gear is piggybacked on commercial
satellites and is powered from the main buss, amateur controllers have no way
to maintain the main systems on the host satellite.
Look a few months back in the SurvivalBlog archives for the article on Earth
Moon Earth (EME or "moon
bounce") propagation for an exotic and often difficult
alternative to HF radio.
My plug for getting your license in the United State is: There is
no longer a Morse Code test requirement! Anyone can memorize the
question pool and easily pass the tech and general
exams now, what possible reason could any survivor not want to get licensed
and on the air.
Worried about expensive gear? while I put down the
tuna can transmitter for
use as a survival set, it is a great way for a family to build a first transmitter
But if you want an actual usable Morse-only radio transceiver with even minimal
long range survival utility, but easy and small enough for every member of
the family to build and hide
in a Tic-Tac breath mints box for under be $10 the Pixie
takes the prize. If you search the net there are several sources for
the pixie kit. - David in Israel
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Letter Re: Surplus Ambulances as BOVs
Dear Mr. Rawles,
Perhaps an overlooked, but wonderful option for a BOV is
an ambulance. You can often find used ambulances on eBay or at [fleet dispersal]
auctions. They
often have fairly low miles, have been well maintained and are most often
diesel.
They
come with
lots of storage compartments and equipment built in, as well most have propane
fuel systems, generators, inverters etc. There is usually at least one "bed" in
them as well. The outside storage compartments are often ready to go for the
prepper as they are often diamond plate on the interior and have webbing for
securing items in place. They are easily "hardened" and easy to drive.
It is easy to remove the outer lights and replace them with other more TEOTWAWKI appropriate
choices. You will of course want to have it painted....LOL.
We have taken our lovely BOV to the ATV park
here and put it through some serious tests. I personally love the looks I received
when driving a muddy ambulance
(pre-paint job)....but like most prepper wives I am not your average soccer
mom. It has some disadvantages as it is a pretty heavy beast, but I feel very
confident in its capabilities. We also have a 4x4 Durango that we are currently
working on for a second BOV. However, the ambulance is by far and away our
favorite. - Prepper Mom in Washington
JWR Replies: When shopping for a surplused vehicle such as
an ambulance at auction, look for one that is built on a pickup truck frame
rather than a cargo van frame. Not only are they more sturdy, but the chances
are much better that you will find one that came from the factory with
a front differential to provide four wheel drive (4WD).
(I am leery about buying a van that was converted to 4WD unless I know the
details about who did the conversion. There are a lot of unqualified "shade
tree mechanics" out there!
Needless to say, all of the usual caveats and disclaimers about buying at
auction apply.
If
you
aren't
familiar
with inspecting vehicles (checking for leaks, inspecting tires, hoses and
belts, checking for exhaust system leaks, examining dip stick colors, et cetera)
then
bring someone that is experienced along with
you for "advice and consent" before bidding.
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Letter Re: Observations on Chest Freezer Efficiency
Hi Jim,
I was reading Monday’s letter regarding “Sizing a Retreat AC Power
Generator”, and a thought came to mind when the author mentioned super-insulating
a freezer for extended cooling durations. There are basically 2 types of freezer;
the upright and the box, (what we call around here, the “coffin” freezer).
Given the same basic amount of insulation included with each type, to the point
where both manage the loss of cooling at the same rate, the “coffin” appears
to be more efficient during access.
Cold air sinks. When the door of an upright freezer is opened, the cold air
inside will pour out, much like you would expect water would pour out of it
in the same circumstances. The cold sinks and falls out the front, and is replaced
by warmer air from above. While the contents of the freezer chill the incoming
air immediately, and give the impression that things are staying cold due to
that same recently-chilled air passing over your face, in reality, heat is
being absorbed by everything inside the freezer.
When you open the door of a box freezer, the cold has nowhere to go. There
is disturbance of the upper layer of air as the door opens, and there is also
a heat exchange effect at the boundary of the two layers, the vast majority
of cold air remains in the box. A box freezer thus saves on the energy needed
to take the temp down to its set level after opening the door.
Here’s a tip for preserving low temps for those with upright freezers.
Keep as much food as possible inside the freezer. The more frozen stuffs you
have, the less space warm air has to occupy. Cold food loses temp much much
slower than displaced air does, and with this practice in place, the door may
remain open for longer periods as junior tries to decide on rocky road or vanilla
(the only real flavor on earth…) ice-cream. The remaining low volume
of air will chill much faster after the door has been closed, and the energy
required to do this will be less as well. This is good for post-TEOTWAWKI as
well as everyday living.
We prefer our “coffin” for bulk storage. It’s easier to keep
our prey “on ice”. - Randy in Central
California
JWR Replies: I agree wholeheartedly that it is important
to keep a chest freezer full. Not only will it mean less cold air spilling
out, but their thermal mass will also provide more of a time lag before defrosting,
in the event of a
power failure. Here at the ranch, we fill up any extra chest freezer space
with used one-gallon plastic milk jugs that have been 3/4ths-filled with water.
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Letter Re: Sizing a Retreat AC Power Generator
Hello Jim and SurvivalBlog Readers:
I have enjoyed reading the vast knowledge shared on this topic and the awakening
you have brought to us about our fragile economy! How can one put a price on
a wake up call?,… well, it’s easy, renew your 10
Cent Challenge! Admit it, your year is probably up, but the education is
still coming to you!
I have not seen any talk on your site about a "miniature" diesel
genset. My thought is that while the large Lister type genset's are proven
to last, ... their will be a time when running something with a much lower
noise signature, vibration signature, and fuel consumption will be necessary
to survive. It seems foolish to fire up 5KW,10KW,
25KW, etc... Watts of power, when you may only need enough to run your furnace
and the freezer. Fire up the big boy for pumping water and what not once a
week, and pump as much as you can into storage containers. Not to mention that
diesel engines last longer when left running, not starting and stopping all
the time. Whereas the gas unit would not know the difference.
My thought is this,. at today's price of diesel, one could afford to buy a
1,000 or 2,000 watt Honda portable unit with the savings of storing 200 stabilized
gallons of gasoline vs. diesel. The Honda units are totally amazing! Almost silent running,
easy to start, easy to throw into the vehicle, and the 1,000 watt unit will
easily run a freezer and furnace for a day on less than a gallon of gasoline.
Use your head and run the generator only as needed, (10 minutes or so several
times a day to keep the freezer going), and you just greatly extended the days
in which you will have portable power. Since the freezer is so important, it
will be worth considering super insulating your freezer when not running.
In a post-SHTF scenario
where we would be very vulnerable early on, and while gasoline is fresh, we
could consider using the little guy first, expend your gasoline fuel supply,
barter off the genset after that, then use caution and go with your primary
Lister type genset. At the rate of one gallon of gasoline per day, you would
have 200 days of run time before even really counting on your diesel genset.
Use your head and run the gasoline genset 6-10 times a day for shorter duration,
and you could have 400 days of gasoline portable power.
Given the cost of gasoline versus diesel, it appears that you would obtain
more kilowatt hours per dollar in this scenario. It seems like the big genset
could be very valuable in offering you the ability to weld, etc... at a time
when
most will have already been wearing out their big gensets and consuming their
fuel. Here you sit with everything fresh and ready to go. Might make a fine
job opportunity to be able to [arc] weld, run 220 VAC equipment,
etcetera, all many moons after the onset of TEOTWAWKI.
I know this thought defies what has been discussed, but a few hundred gallons
of gasoline stored almost pays for the Honda generator in savings over buying
diesel [fuel] at today's prices. Thought I would put it out there for thought,
of course, run the figures with an expert to make sure you are not starving
the electric motors which would prematurely burn out the appliance.
All the best! - The Wanderer
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A Flooded Basement - Friends You Can Count On, and Lessons Learned
Mr. Rawles,
Once again, thank you for your research and SurvivalBlog posts.
I have been a [10
Cent Challenge] contributor for a couple of years and have gotten more
than my money's worth. Thank you.
Last night my group and I met at my home. Here in New Hampshire we received
a record amount of snow fall this year. (Over 108 inches!) That is the fourth
largest
every
recorded.
Yesterday it was warmer then normal there for a lot of snow melt. Last night
it rained.
As the group was getting ready to head to the range for night shooting I went
to my basement to get my ammo. I found 18 to 24" of water down there.
All the water was running in off the roadway and into my basement.
Thank you for your writings. [Because of advice in SurvivalBlog] everything
was in Mylar bags in five gallon buckets, floating. I went to turn on my submersible
pump
that
I have not
had
to use
for years
and it did not work. I started bailing with buckets. We attempted to get a
siphon going with out success. My son went to Home Depot--one of the few stores
still
open--and was
able to rent a large 2" diameter pump. That emptied the basement in about two hours.
The hot water heater was damaged. I had sand bags that we used in the basement
to keep the water in one area once it started to rain again. It was like a
water fall coming in the basement at time. The sand bags worked great creating
a pool in that area for the pump to work. We dug a trench out side in the driveway
to get the water to go into the back yard. Using spades, shovels and axes that
we had on hand. We dug out the culvert that that the highway department should
have kept opened and that I should have kept checking. Once that was open it
stopped raining
but it should keep the water out with everything else we did.
One of the members of our group is a tech for a propane company and he was
able to get the hot water heater up and going with the tools and supplies we
had on hand. He was able to make sure the furnace was going well.
A couple of lessons: You need good people that you can trust.
We were going over our bug out plans and storage plans for the retreat prior
to heading to
the
range. You have to plan for the future but live in the here and now.
We have different people with different skills. Once is a propane tech, one
is a mechanic, one an administrator, one good in first aid and one security
- defensive
person. All of them have various skills that are needed. I had a stash of cash
on hand to purchase or rent the pump and anything else needed last night.
Having a good working pump would have been invaluable. I have a stream that
flows all year long in my yard and I could even use a good pump for fire control
if needed. That will be on the list now.
I once again thank the Lord for his providence. - New Hampshire Hillbilly
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Spot Shortages at a COSTCO Store a Portent of Things to Come? »
Letter Re: Sizing a Retreat AC Power Generator
Jim -
Great blog! I wanted to point out an important calculation everyone missed
- internal combustion engines produce less power at higher elevation. Generators
are (of course) rated at sea level. It's important to de-rate generator capacity
by 3.5% per 1,000 feet of elevation or your generator will be undersized.
(A 5,000 "label watt" generator is [effectively] only a 4,000 watt
generator where I live at 6,000 feet.) Density altitude on a warm summer
day can
easily be
2,000 feet higher than that. My rule of thumb: after sizing for load, size
generously for elevation or you'll be buying twice. Hope this helps everyone...
Other food for thought: You don't need to run all your big loads simultaneously.
If the grid stays down, it'll be a blessing just to have refrigeration - it
doesn't need to be like today where we run everything at once while blow-drying
the dog! There's no reason you can't shut off the freezer if you need the well
pump. The simplest transfer switch allows you to control power to various loads,
and this allows you to use a smaller generator to accomplish everything. My
genset is home built using a Listeroid (Lister clone) diesel engine and generator
head purchased separately. This generator (significantly oversized to run a
MIG welder,
lathe, mill or compressor/plasma cutter combo) cost me less than $3,000 including
truck freight and welding up a stout steel frame (probably
$4,500 now, given the weak dollar, steel prices and current shipping rates).
Based on decades of British Empire experience with these beasts in third world
countries, I expect it will give 30,000-to-50,000 hours of service with minimal
maintenance. It gingerly sips fuel and is easily operated on biodiesel or waste
vegetable
oil without modification.
Regards, - Fred H.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Unconventional Bug-Out Transportation Methods, by A. Taylor »
Four Letters Re: Sizing a Retreat AC Power Generator
Mr. Rawles:
I saw that you recently posted my question to the blog, so I thought I'd update
you. I ran the tests again and got what I believe to be a more accurate assessments.
My second test showed the refrigerator consuming right at 2.7 KWH (2,700 watts)
over a 24 hour period for an average of 112.5 watts-per-hour. Now mind you,
that includes all the hours we were asleep and so no one was opening the door,
using up ice, etc.. During hours of heavy usage it was using about 150 watts-per-hour.
Test #2 for the chest freezer yielded the following results: KWH usage for
the full 24 hours came to 1.02 KWH or 1,020 watts. This is an average of 42.5
watts-per-hour. Mind you, this freezer basically only gets opened once per
day when we take out whatever we're defrosting for dinner. All in all, I'm
pretty happy with those results.
The next step is to test our other refrigerator and our upright freezer and
to calculate the Amp Hours required (how many deep cycle batteries I'll need)
to build my
homemade UPS system.
FYI, I found a really good deal the other day on a 4 KW emergency gasoline
genset, and went ahead and bought it. My next big purchase will be a
tri-fuel conversion
kit from US Carburetion, so I can run her on propane. I know you guys usually
endorse diesel as a primary genset/retreat fuel, but I really like the stability
and shelf-life of propane - in my area, I can rent a 300-gallon tank (I own
two 100-gallon cylinder tanks) from the propane provider for around $50 per
year and fill it a little at a time as opposed to making an expensive all-at-once
fuel purchase. My logic there being that I can dump a little in each month,
so that it'll be full when I actually need it to be. - JSC in West Virginia
- A "10 Cent Challenge" Subscriber
Dear JWR:
I was catching up on SurvivalBlog this weekend and noted the article on generator
set sizing. The main issue here is that there is a significant difference
in the average electrical
energy consumption of an appliance and its peak usage. This issue is compounded
by electrical devices such as motors which are not purely resistive (i.e. inductive
load) and thus have up to 3 times the energy demand to start as opposed to
running. This is commonly referred to as “starting current” verses “running
current”. When sizing an electrical generator, one needs not only to
calculate the total energy consumption of all electrical appliances one anticipates
to be running simultaneously, but also to cover the starting current for the
item with the heaviest draw. Most electrical motors are labeled with their
electrical current needs, commonly listed as starting or peak current and continuous
current. In regard to an appliance which doesn’t list this information
(such as a refrigerator), the owner needs to use his Kill-A-Watt [meter] to
determine the current used while running (typically 3-5 amps) and multiply
this by 3
to get a good estimate of the starting current demands.
The process should be to add up the total draw for all the appliances, and
then double the highest one and add that also to the total. This will give
a rough estimate of the peak current draw, in Amps. To convert
Amps to Watts, one simply needs to multiply by the operating voltage (typically
120 or 240
Volts). This assumes that no more than one heavy draw appliance starts at the
same time, but to cover all the starting currents would require a much larger
generator.
Several years back, during an ice storm, we were living off of an emergency
generator rated at 5,000 Watts (6,200 peak Watts ). One should disregard the “peak” rating
of typical portable emergency generators since they are uniformly overrated
(I have noticed that recently, peak rating is what is listed, look for the “continuous
rating”). Our water heater (a purely resistive load, hence no “starting
current”) consumed 4,500 Watts. In order to take a hot shower, we needed
to turn off all other circuits and allow the water to heat up. After an hour,
the water heater was disconnected to allow the well pump to be operated to
provide water through the water heater to the shower. This constant switching
of loads was a real nightmare.
As a caveat, typical consumer portable electrical generators are not up the
rigors of continuous use. Their fuel economy is atrocious; our 5 KW unit uses
about 5 gallons of gas in an 8 hour period. They are also typically powered
by the equivalent of an air-cooled lawnmower engine. Consider taking your lawnmower
into heavy wet grass and mowing continuously for 200 hours. After a week of
trying to keep this loud and hungry beast fed, thankfully the power came back
on-line. We went with a diesel powered 15KW unit which would even cover the
arc welding unit and it uses about 1/4 gallon of fuel per hour during typical
household test uses. The gas generator seemed to use virtually the same amount
of fuel regardless of the load, but the diesel unit just sips fuel when it
is just loafing along, with consumption roughly linear with the load.
When choosing a generator for long term use, I would make several recommendations:
First, if you pump water or want to run a welder or air conditioning unit,
you will need at least 10 KW and 120/240VAC capability.
Second, get a unit with double windings so it can run at 1,800 rpm instead
of 3,600 rpm (to make up 60 Hz AC power). This vastly improves fuel economy
and
noise level as well as longevity.
Third, the unit needs to be water cooled. While some air cooled units are built
for longevity, they are the exception.
Fourth, think of fuel storage requiring long-term stability. This effectively
rules out gasoline, and leaves us with NG/LPG or diesel.
While electrical generators are very useful and highly recommended, their Achilles’ Heel
is fuel availability. We store adequate diesel fuel to run the generator full
time for approximately two months use, which would extend to one year or more
with limited part-time use, but it is still a finite resource. They can be
useful
as a bridge for short duration (till the power comes back on or we learn to
live without). Except in the hottest climates, running a refrigerator or freezer
a couple of hours twice a day is adequate with limited door opening. Once the
foodstuffs in the freezer and refrigerator are used up, you will still need
a manual pump for your water well in TEOTWAWKI.
Hope this helps, - NC BlueDog
Sir,
The Kill-A-Watt meter
is a great tool but [KSC] really didn’t give
it a chance to work. If you want to find out how much power your refrigerator uses
over
the course of the day leave it plugged into the meter for a few days at the
minimum.
Most watt meters have the option to see how much power is currently being used
by whatever is plugged into it. You’ll want to look at that while the
appliance is cycled on. The refrigerators and freezers that I’ve dealt with
generally don’t use more than about 150 – 200 watts while running,
figure they use about three times that during startup.
In your situation, figure 600 watts startup power, times four appliances would
be around 2,400 watts. I’m guessing that there will be other things that
you will want to run also (lights, grain mill, battery charger etc.) so you
may want
to go with a 3,500 watt generator but as long as you aren’t looking to
power your whole house from top to bottom with it you don’t really need
a huge generator. - MercCom
Jim-
Here's a helpful
site for figuring power requirements.
By the way, we all have useful generators sitting in our garages--in our car
and/or truck. An inverter will let you tap that power. COSTCO has a 1,000 watt
inverter for $65. If you use good sense in using power, and keep your vehicle
tank(s) full, you can ride through a temporary power failure. Not bad for $65.
But you also will have to buy or make up a pair of cables that will clip to
your battery. The provided cables have useless terminals (closed end type)
for the battery end of the cables. - Bob B.
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Letter Re: The "Invention Nation" Documentary Television Series
Jim,
I don't know if this has been posted here or not. I have finished watching
a series on the Science Channel called "Invention Nation".
The show primarily feature inventors who are inventing ways to "go green".
Many of these inventions and ideas fit in perfectly with being self-sufficient.
Some of the topics are; used cooking oil for diesel engines, solar power technology,
passive solar for heating homes and water, bicycle generators, etc... The series
will rerun starting in March and may be worth a look for the preparedness minded. See
the Invention Nation web site. Thanks to you and your family for all you
do. - Randy G.
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Letter Re: Sizing a Retreat AC Power Generator
Mr. Rawles:
In attempting to size an emergency generator for my home, I have run across
some interesting questions that I hope you and/or your other readers will be
able to help me with. I lived through the blizzards of the 1990s here in the
southern West Virginia coal camps, and I will never forget us and all of our
neighbors being without power and unable to get out of our own driveways for
23+ days in 1993.
It marked the very beginnings of my awakening to the necessity of being properly
prepared. With that in mind, I am attempting to set my home up with the ability
to keep a bare minimum level of electrical appliances running in the case of
a long-term outage; namely 2 refrigerators w/ freezers, a chest freezer, and
an upright freezer (all just a few years old, so fairly energy efficient).
I am gauging the power being used by these appliances using
a Kill-A-Watt.
And, honestly, I'm afraid that I am doing something wrong. My number seem awfully
low.
The first test I ran was on my chest freezer; after two hours of measurement,
the freezer had consumed just 0.05 KWH or 50 watts of power at 25 watts per
hour. I was surprised, but not terribly because the lid was not opened during
the span of the test.
Next, I tested the refrigerator in my kitchen. It is a an Energy Star compliant
Whirlpool brand 25.55 cu. ft. model with water and ice in the door. As a result
of the chest freezer coming in lower than I expected, I purposely skewed the
refrigerator experiment with the hopes of over-estimating the true usage. To
that end, I was sure to be a bad boy and do things such as holding the door
open and staring in like a goober for five minutes. I also refilled the dog's
water bowl from the door (forcing the pump into action) and virtually emptied
the ice bin as crushed ice through the door (a big cup of ice water is yum!)
to force the ice maker to have to run and make more. But, even with all that,
my two hour test yielded a cumulative KWH usage of just 0.13. A measly 130
watts at 65 watts per hour.
Researching this online, I'm finding sites that estimate the typical household
fridge uses between 150-250 watts per hour with peaks upward of 700+ watts.
Am I doing really well on efficiency or am I missing something? I'll wait to
hear back before I run the remaining tests. Thanks! - JSC
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The "Come as You Are" Collapse--Have the Right Tools and Skills
In the Second World War, the United States had nearly two full years to ramp
up military training and production before decisively confronting the Axis
powers. In the late 1970s, looking at the recent experience of the 1973 Arab-Israeli
War, the Pentagon's strategic planners came to the realization that the next
major war that the US military would wage would not be
like the Second World War. There would not be the luxury of time to train and
equip. They realized that we would have to fight with only what we had available
on Day One. They dubbed this the "Come as you are war" concept.
In my opinion, the same "come as you are" mindset should
be applied to family preparedness. We must recognize that in these
days of rapid news dissemination, it may take as little as 10 hours before
supermarket shelves are cleaned out. It make take just a few hours for queues
that are literally blocks-long to form at gas stations--or at bank branches
in the event of bank runs. Worse yet, it may take just a few hours before
the highways and freeways leading out of urban and suburban areas are clogged
with traffic--the dreaded "Golden
Horde" that I often write about. Do not make the false assumption
that you will have the chance to make "one last trip" to the big
box store, or even the chance to fill your Bug Out Vehicle's fuel tank. This
will be the "come as you are" collapse.
The concept also applies to your personal training. If you haven't learned
how to do things before the balloon goes, up, then don't expect to get anything
but marginal to mediocre on-the-job training after the fact. In essence, you
have the opportunity to take top quality training from the best trainers now,
but you won't once the Schumer hits
the fan. Take the time to get top-notch training! Train with the best--with
organizations like Medical
Corps, WEMSI, Front
Sight, the RWVA/Appleseed
Project, the WRSA,
and the ARRL.
Someday, you'll be very glad that you did.
The come as you are concept definitely applies to specialized manufactured
equipment.You are dreaming if you think that
you will have the chance to to purchase any items such as these, in a post-collapse
world:
razor
wire, body
armor, night
vision equipment,
advanced
first aid gear, tritium
scopes, dosimeters
and radiac meters, biological decontamination
equipment, Dakota
Alert or military surplus PEWS intrusion
detection sets, photovoltaics,
NBC
masks, and semi-auto
battle rifles.
Think about it: There
are very few if these items (per capita) presently in circulation. But the
demand for them during a societal collapse would be tremendous. How could
you compete in such a scant market? Anyone that conceivably has "spares" will
probably want to keep them for a member of their own family or group. So
even in the unlikely event that someone was even willing to sell
such scarce items, they would surely ask a king's ransom in barter
for them. I'm talking about quarter sections of land,
entire strings of
well-broken horses, or pounds of
gold. Offers of anything less would surely be scoffed at.
Don't overlook the "you" part of the "as
you are" premise.
Are you physically fit? Are you up to date on your dental work? Do you have
two pairs of sturdy eyeglasses with your current prescription? Do
you have at least a six month supply of vitamins and medications? Is your body
weight
reasonable?
If you answer to any of these is no, then get busy!
Even if you have a modest budget, you will have an advantage over the average
suburbanite. Your knowledge and training alone--what is between your ears--will
ensure that. And even with just a small budget for food storage, you will be
miles ahead of your neighbors. Odds are that they will have less than two week's
worth of food on hand. As I often say, you will need extra supplies on hand to
help out relatives, friends, and neighbors that were ill-prepared. I consider
charity my Christian duty!
I have repeatedly and strongly emphasized the importance of living
at your intended retreat year-round. But I realize that because
of personal finances, family obligations, and the constraints of making a
living at an hourly or
salaried job, that this is not realistic--except for a few of us, mainly retirees.
If you are stuck in the Big City and plan to Get Out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.)
at the eleventh hour, then by all means pre-position the vast majority of your
gear and supplies at your retreat. You will most likely only have one, I repeat, one G.O.O.D.
trip. If there is a major crisis there will probably be no chance to "go
back for a second load." So WTSHTF will
truly be a "come as you are" affair.
With all of this in mind, re-think your preparedness priorities. Stock
your retreat well. If there isn't someone living there year-round,
then hide what is there from burglars. (See the numerous SurvivalBlog posts
on caching and constructing hidden compartments and rooms.) Maintain balance
in your preparations. In a situation where you are truly hunkered-down at
your retreat in the midst of a societal collapse, there might not be any
opportunity to barter for any items that you overlooked. (At least not for
several months. ) What you have is what you got. You will have to make-do.
So be sure to develop your "lists
of lists" meticulously. If you have the funds available, construct
a combination storm shelter/fallout shelter/walk-in vault. It
would be virtually impossible to build something that elaborate in the aftermath
of a
societal collapse.
A closing thought that relates to your retreat logistics: The
original colonial Army Rangers, organized by Major Robert Rogers during
the French and Indian Wars of the 1750s had a
succinct list of operating rules. The version of the "Rules of Ranging" recounted
in the novel "Northwest Passage" by Kenneth Roberts started
with a strong proviso: "Don't forget nothing." That
is sage advice.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: My Preparedness Plans Just Took an Unexpected Turn »
Letter Re: AA Cells and Mobile Power
There was a discussion about batteries a few days back on SurvivalBlog. The
writer advocated using AA NiMH cells almost exclusively, with adapters for devices requiring C and D cells. While
I do agree that this is a good approach for some devices, there is certainly
some merit to having full size 10 Amp Hour (10,000 MAH) batteries in high [current]
draw or long term use devices. Not only is capacity
significantly higher on larger cells, but the maximum safe current draw is
higher too.
Good NiMH C cells have 2-to-3 times the capacity of AA cells, and NiMH D cells
have 4-to-5 times the capacity of AA cells. They can be charged in a reasonable
timeframe on a good quality charger like the MAHA MH-C801D. If you shop carefully
you can find 10AH NiMH low self discharge D cells for around $10 each (As an
example, see Overstock.com). Thanks, - BR
JWR Replies: I recommend that SurvivalBlog readers be very
careful when shopping for size C and D NiCD and NiMH batteries. Many of the
batteries on the market have no more capacity than a size AA. (With those,
essentially you are getting the same "guts" used in a size AA cell,
but just in a bigger "can.") Look carefully and the MaH ratings before
you buy! Also, be sure to buy only brands (such as Sanyo's
ENELOOP) that have "Low Self Discharge" (LSD) rates.
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Letter Re: Keeping a Low Profile is Crucial for Preparedness
Jim,
My missus and I have been into "prepping" for about 15 years. Our
house has a basement and it is practically wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling
with shelves--with just narrow aisles in between. The shelves are chockablock
with storage food (all labeled and organized "FIFO"-style),
medical supplies, assorted "field" type gear, tools, barter/charity
stuff, ammo cans, propane cylinders (that fit our camp stove and camping lantern),
reels of field phone wire, paper products, and so forth. Following the example
of Mr. Whiskey (from your "Profiles")
we have recently built up 27 sets of designated "charity duffles",
each packed in a cheap Made-in-Taiwan nylon duffle bag. Each of these contains
a Dutch Army surplus wool blanket, a Chinese knockoff of a Leatherman tool,
a pair of gloves, a pile ("watch") cap, a half dozen pairs of socks,
a thrift store man's jacket, room for four days worth of food (which we would
pack from our FIFO inventory, as needed), a collapsing plastic water container
(the type that Campmor sells), a waterproof match container, a tube tent, and
a hand line fishing kit. ("Teach a man to fish...")
When we moved back to California in 1998, we picked our house specially because
it was built in the 1940s. It is the oldest and sturdiest house on the block.
(The neighborhood built up around the house, when the property was subdivided
in the 1960s.) It has a basement and its own water well, which
is now "off the books"--since the house is now on "city" [metered]
water, but the well is still functional with a 24 VDC submersible
well pump. I have four flush roof-mounted Kyocera PV panels
(cannot be seen from the street) and six deep cycle batteries. The cables are
run series-parallel to provide both 12 VDC and 24 VDC outputs.
Even though we live in a standard suburban neighborhood, none of out
neighbors are any the wiser about our preps. At the core, I
consider my preparations my own business. When the time comes to
hand out the charity duffles, we will do so through an intermediary,
like our church. (We are Methodists.)
After seeing what
happened to that guy in Norco last year, I am glad that I keep a low
profile. The specific measures that we have taken to keep a low profile are:
1.) We take no UPS deliveries
at our house. Nearly all of our mail-ordered goods are sent to our private
mail box at the local UPS Store (it was formerly a "MailBoxes, Etc.")
From there, we take the boxes home in our minivan.We are always sure to unload
the van from inside my garage, with the garage door shut.
All of the empty boxes have the "to" and "from" address
labels cut out with a box cutter knife. I discard the flattened boxes in the
cardboard recycling dumpster behind the office where I work. (I'm a sales engineer
for a medium-size company.)
2.) We don't subscribe to any shooting or hunting magazines. We get all of
the gun information we need online. To "stay in the fight" politically,
I do make regular anonymous contributions to the GOA, JPFO and
CRPA [The California Rifle and Pistol Association, a firearms rights organization],
via Post Office Money Orders. (BTW, I do the same for the SurvivalBlog [10
Cent] Challenge. Shame on any of you that read this blog regularly but
don't pony up the 10 pennies a day!)
3.) We access all web pages via Anonymizer,
with no exceptions.
4.) Most of of our preps purchases are either made F2F,
with cash, or with Post Office Money Orders if ordering by mail. This eliminates
the "trail of paper" from writing checks or using a credit card.
We buy a lot from Nitro-Pak, Ready
Made Resources, Major
Surplus, and Lehman's.
5.) All of our guns, ammunition, gun gadgets, targets, and cleaning supplies
are bought "private party", mainly at SoCal [(Southern California)]
gun shows. Also, needless to mention, these are greenback transactions
only! In
California, we can still at least buy rifles and shotguns that are more than
50 years old
without having to buy through a [licensed] dealer. We have two [M1]
Garand rifles, and a FN.49, also [chambered] in .30-06. I'm still looking
for one or two more of those, but they are scarce, and even harder to find
private party. We also have three [Winchester] Model 12 pump[-action] 12 gauge
shotguns, two of which have had their barrels shortened to 18.5 inches. Handgun
buys in California all require paperwork, but by Divine Providence
I bought several Glocks
and [Colt Model] 1911s when
I was living in Arizona for a couple years, back in the late '90s. [JWR
Adds: That loophole was recently closed for Californians. Anyone moving
into the state must now register their handguns. Drat! But at least there was
a grandfather clause.] There is isn't much to do out in the desert except shoot,
so I bought a lot of guns when we were there.
6.) We signed up for an identity theft and credit report checking protection
plan three years ago. I noticed that SurvivalBlog just started running an ad
from Comprehensive Risk
Solutions. Their service has more bells and whistles and a lower subscription
cost that our current provider, so we will switch [to them] when our current
subscription lapses. [JWR Adds: I highly recommend this service.
It is cheap insurance to prevent what would otherwise be a very costly incident.]
7.) We use a TracFone
whenever
calling a mail order vendor. (No calling history paper trail.)
8. ) We don't mention our preps to anyone outside of our family.
We have coached our kids from an early age to keep their lips zipped.
9.) Whenever we have anybody visit our home, the basement door stays closed
and locked. (It is a keyed deadbolt lock.) The basement has
no windows. Most of our friends and relatives don't realize that we
even have a basement. (Basements are actually rare in California
tract neighborhoods.) To anybody that visits, the basement door just looks
like a locked closet.
10.) We don't leave anything "suspicious" out where it can be seen
in our house and garage.
These precautions might seem kinda "over the top", but put yourself
in my shoes. In the People's Republic of California it pays to be a bit of
a Secret Squirrel. I does cost me about $300 per year to get my mail and packages
at the UPS Store, but I consider that a small price to pay for my privacy.
I plan to retire to the mountains of central Nevada in nine years, but for
now, I am making do in my present circumstances. - F.L. in Southern California
« Letter Re: Best Items to Store for Barter and Charity? |Main| Note from JWR: »
From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists"
Start your retreat stocking effort by first composing a List of Lists, then
draft prioritized lists for each subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or
in a spreadsheet if you are a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out
a hard copy for use when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor
your lists to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density
as well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a retreat
in a coastal area is likely to have a far different list than someone living
in the Rockies.
As I often mention in my lectures and radio interviews, a great way to create
truly commonsense preparedness lists is to take a three-day weekend TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” with your family. When you come home from work on
Friday evening, turn off your main circuit breaker, turn off your gas main
(or propane tank), and shut your main water valve (or turn off your well pump.)
Spend that weekend in primitive conditions. Practice using only your storage
food, preparing it on a wood stove (or camping stove.)
A “TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” will surprise you. Things that
you take for granted will suddenly become labor intensive. False assumptions
will be shattered. Your family will grow closer and more confident. Most importantly,
some of the most thorough lists that you will ever make will be those written
by candlelight.
Your List of Lists should include: (Sorry that this post
is in outline form, but it would take a full length book to discus all of
the following in great detail)
Water List
Food Storage List
Food Preparation List
Personal List
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
Nuke Defense List
Biological Warfare Defense List
Gardening List
Hygiene List/Sanitation List
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
Fuels List
Firefighting List
Tactical Living List
Security-General
Security-Firearms
Communications/Monitoring List
Tools List
Sundries List
Survival Bookshelf List
Barter and Charity List
JWR’s Specific Recommendations For Developing Your Lists:
Water List
House downspout conversion sheet metal work and barrels. (BTW, this is another
good reason to upgrade your retreat to a fireproof metal roof.)
Drawing water from open sources. Buy extra containers. Don’t buy big
barrels, since five gallon food grade buckets are the largest size that most
people can handle without back strain.
For transporting water if and when gas is too precious to waste, buy a couple
of heavy duty two wheel garden carts--convert the wheels to foam filled "no
flats" tires. (BTW, you will find lots of other uses for those carts around
your retreat, such as hauling hay, firewood, manure, fertilizer, et cetera.)
Treating water. Buy plain Clorox hypochlorite bleach. A little goes a long
way. Buy some extra half-gallon bottles for barter and charity. If you can
afford it, buy a “Big Berky” British Berkefeld ceramic water filter.
(Available from Ready
Made Resources and several other Internet vendors. Even if you have pure
spring water at your retreat, you never know where you may end up, and a good
filter could be a lifesaver.)
Food Storage List
See my post tomorrow which will be devoted to food storage. Also see the recent
letter from David in Israel on this subject.
Food Preparation List
Having more people under your roof will necessitate having an oversize skillet
and a huge stew pot. BTW, you will want to buy several huge kettles, because
odds are you will have to heat water on your wood stove for bathing, dish washing,
and clothes washing. You will also need even more kettles, barrels, and 5 or
6 gallon PVC buckets--for water hauling, rendering, soap making, and dying.
They will also make great barter or charity items. (To quote my mentor Dr.
Gary North: “Nails: buy a barrel of them. Barrels: Buy a barrel of them!”)
Don’t overlook skinning knives, gut-buckets, gambrels, and meat saws.
Personal List
(Make a separate personal list for each family member and individual expected
to arrive at your retreat.)
Spare glasses.
Prescription and nonprescription medications.
Birth control.
Keep dentistry up to date.
Any elective surgery that you've been postponing
Work off that gut.
Stay in shape.
Back strength and health—particularly important, given the heavy manual
tasks required for self-sufficiency.
Educate yourself on survival topics, and practice them. For example, even if
you don’t presently live at your retreat, you should plant a vegetable
garden every year. It is better to learn through experience and make mistakes
now, when the loss of crop is an annoyance rather than a crucial event.
“Comfort” items to help get through high stress times. (Books, games,
CDs, chocolates, etc.)
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
When tailoring this list, consider your neighborhood going for many months
without power, extensive use of open flames, and sentries standing picket
shifts exposed in the elements. Then consider axes, chainsaws and tractors
being wielded by newbies, and a greater likelihood of gunshot wounds. With
all of this, add the possibility of no access to doctors or high tech medical
diagnostic equipment. Put a strong emphasis on burn treatment first aid supplies.
Don’t overlook do-it-yourself dentistry! (Oil of cloves, temporary
filling kit, extraction tools, et cetera.) Buy a full minor surgery outfit
(inexpensive Pakistani stainless steel instruments), even if you don’t
know how to use them all yet. You may have to learn, or you will have the
opportunity to put them in the hands of someone experienced who needs them.)
This is going to be a big list!
Chem/Nuke Defense List
Dosimeter and rate meter, and charger, radiac meter (hand held Geiger counter),
rolls of sheet plastic (for isolating airflow to air filter inlets and for
covering window frames in the event that windows are broken due to blast effects),
duct tape, HEPA filters (ands spares) for your shelter. Potassium iodate (KI)
tablets to prevent thyroid damage.(See my recent post on that subject.) Outdoor
shower rig for just outside your shelter entrance.
Biological Warfare Defense List
Disinfectants
Hand Sanitizer
Sneeze masks
Colloidal silver generator and spare supplies (distilled water and .999 fine
silver rod.)
Natural antibiotics (Echinacea, Tea Tree oil, …)
Gardening List
One important item for your gardening list is the construction of a very tall
deer-proof and rabbit-proof fence. Under current circumstances, a raid by deer
on your garden is probably just an inconvenience. After the balloon goes up,
it could mean the difference between eating well, and starvation.
Top Soil/Amendments/Fertilizers.
Tools+ spares for barter/charity
Long-term storage non hybrid (open pollinated) seed. (Non-hybrid “heirloom” seed
assortments tailors to different climate zones are available from The
Ark Institute
Herbs: Get started with medicinal herbs such as aloe vera (for burns), echinacea
(purple cone flower), valerian, et cetera.
Hygiene/Sanitation List
Sacks of powdered lime for the outhouse. Buy plenty!
TP in quantity (Stores well if kept dry and away from vermin and it is lightweight,
but it is very bulky. This is a good item to store in the attic. See my novel
about stocking up on used phone books for use as TP.
Soap in quantity (hand soap, dish soap, laundry soap, cleansers, etc.)
Bottled lye for soap making.
Ladies’ supplies.
Toothpaste (or powder).
Floss.
Fluoride rinse. (Unless you have health objections to the use of fluoride.)
Sunscreen.
Livestock List:
Hoof rasp, hoof nippers, hoof pick, horse brushes, hand sheep shears, styptic,
carding combs, goat milking stand, teat dip, udder wash, Bag Balm, elastrator
and bands, SWOT fly repellent, nail clippers (various sizes), Copper-tox, leads,
leashes, collars, halters, hay hooks, hay fork, manure shovel, feed buckets,
bulk grain and C-O-B sweet feed (store in galvanized trash cans with tight
fitting lids to keep the mice out), various tack and saddles, tack repair tools,
et cetera. If your region has selenium deficient soil (ask your local Agricultural
extension office) then be sure to get selenium-fortified salt blocks rather
than plain white salt blocks--at least for those that you are going to set
aside strictly for your livestock.
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
“Buckshot” Bruce Hemming has produced an excellent series of videos
on trapping and making improvised traps. (He also sells traps and scents at very
reasonable prices.)
Night vision gear, spares, maintenance, and battery charging
Salt. Post-TEOTWAWKI, don’t “go hunting.” That would be a
waste of effort. Have the game come to you. Buy 20 or more salt blocks. They
will also make very valuable barter items.
Sell your fly fishing gear (all but perhaps a few flies) and buy practical
spin casting equipment.
Extra tackle may be useful for barter, but probably only in a very long term
Crunch.
Buy some frog gigs if you have bullfrogs in your area. Buy some crawfish traps
if you have crawfish in your area.
Learn how to rig trot lines and make fish traps for non-labor intensive fishing WTSHTF.
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
One proviso: In the event of a “grid
down” situation, if you are the only family in the area with power,
it could turn your house into a “come loot me” beacon at night.
At the same time, your house lighting will ruin the night vision of your LP/OP pickets.
Make plans and buy materials in advance for making blackout screens or fully
opaque curtains for your windows.
When possible, buy nickel metal hydride batteries. (Unlike the older nickel
cadmium technology, these have no adverse charge level “memory” effect.)
If your home has propane appliances, get a “tri-fuel” generator--with
a carburetor that is selectable between gasoline, propane, and natural gas.
If you heat your home with home heating oil, then get a diesel-burning generator.
(And plan on getting at least one diesel burning pickup and/or tractor). In
a pinch, you can run your diesel generator and diesel vehicles on home heating
oil.
Kerosene lamps; plenty of extra wicks, mantles, and chimneys. (These will also
make great barter items.)
Greater detail on do-it-yourself power will be included in my forthcoming blog
posts.
Fuels List
Buy the biggest propane, home heating oil, gas, or diesel tanks that your local
ordinances permit and that you can afford. Always keep them at least two-thirds
full. For privacy concerns, ballistic impact concerns, and fire concerns,
underground tanks are best if you local water table allows it. In any case,
do not buy an aboveground fuel tank that would visible from any public road
or navigable waterway. Buy plenty of extra fuel for barter. Don’t overlook
buying plenty of kerosene. (For barter, you will want some in one or two
gallon cans.) Stock up on firewood or coal. (See my previous blog posts.)
Get the best quality chainsaw you can afford. I prefer Stihls and Husqavarnas.
If you can afford it, buy two of the same model. Buy extra chains, critical
spare parts, and plenty of two-cycle oil. (Two-cycle oil will be great for
barter!) Get a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps. They are expensive but
they might save yourself a trip to the emergency room. Always wear gloves,
goggles, and ear-muffs. Wear a logger’s helmet when felling. Have someone
who is well experienced teach you how to re-sharpen chains. BTW, don’t
cut up your wood into rounds near any rocks or you will destroy a chain in
a hurry.
Firefighting List
Now that you have all of those flammables on hand (see the previous list) and
the prospect of looters shooting tracer ammo or throwing Molotov cocktails
at your house, think in terms of fire fighting from start to finish without
the aid of a fire department. Even without looters to consider, you should
be ready for uncontrolled brush or residential fires, as well as the greater
fire risk associated with greenhorns who have just arrived at your retreat
working with wood stoves and kerosene lamps!
Upgrade your retreat with a fireproof metal roof.
2” water line from your gravity-fed storage tank (to provide large water
volume for firefighting)
Fire fighting rig with an adjustable stream/mist head.
Smoke and CO detectors.
Tactical Living List
Adjust your wardrobe buying toward sturdy earth-tone clothing. (Frequent your
local thrift store and buy extras for retreat newcomers, charity, and barter.)
Dyes. Stock up on some boxes of green and brown cloth dye. Buy some extra for
barter. With dye, you can turn most light colored clothes into semi-tactical
clothing on short notice.
Two-inch wide burlap strip material in green and brown. This burlap is available
in large spools from Gun Parts Corp. Even if you don’t have time now,
stock up so that you can make camouflage ghillie
suits post-TEOTWAWKI.
Save those wine corks! (Burned cork makes quick and cheap face camouflage.)
Cold weather and foul weather gear—buy plenty, since you will be doing
more outdoor chores, hunting, and standing guard duty.
Don’t overlook ponchos and gaiters.
Mosquito repellent.
Synthetic double-bag (modular) sleeping bags for each person at the retreat,
plus a couple of spares. The Wiggy’s
brand Flexible Temperature Range Sleep System (FTRSS)
made by Wiggy's of Grand Junction, Colorado is highly recommended.
