« Note from JWR: |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re Advice for College Students Living Abroad
Hi,
I'm a student from Singapore studying overseas in Australia and I'm also a
Christian. I have been following your blog for quite awhile, and there are
some things I would like to ask.
First, what advice can you give to students studying overseas? As a student,
I stay on my own in a rented place, and probably will have to move every six
months or so, so stockpiling food and goods are only feasible for about a month
or two worth of food, as I will have to shift everything I own on my own to
my new place whenever I move. That being said, I have roughly about a month's
supply of food stored up, but it is mostly in rice. If things go bad, I won't
be able to eat well, but will survive (I stocked up on some vitamins as well.
Not healthy I know, but better than nothing.). Additionally, what kind of food
should I buy and store? Currently, I am thinking about baking hardtack, as
they are easy to make and store well. I also have about 20 liters of water,
and am able to purify more than 100 liters of water using water purification
tablets and I also have a bottle of plain bleach.
As I am not in my home country, and if anything happens, I have no 'safe' place
to go. Other than going into the bush, which will not happen, as I have no
bush skills, the only choice I have is to hunker down and try, if possible,
to get a flight/ship back to Singapore. With such limited options, I am worried
about what to do WTSHTF,
which is ever more likely, given the current swine flu going around. While
I do know a family staying in a relatively rural area,
I do not know if I am able to get there as their acreage is quite a distance
away from my place and I have no transportation. Also, I am not sure if they
are prepared and stocked up for any crisis, so there is no guaranty that they
will be able to take me in. I would greatly appreciate some advice over this
issue, as it is the most important issue, and also advice on whatever you think
I am lacking in below.
Supplies: I have managed to gather some stuff over time, some medicine/first-aid(learned
some first-aid when younger, and still know the important stuff), lights (some
military stuff, since I have done my national service, a couple of wind up
torches as well for backup/indefinite use), fire starting equipment (lighters,
matches, fire starters, candles, no flint due to being unable to find someplace
that sells it), lightweight cooking equipment (billycan, metal bowls and tins,
utensils). Not much, but been trying to convince my parents to send over some
more supplies I have, which are mainly military stuff (nothing illegal, but
will raise some questions; excuse is they are for paintball, etc). Additionally,
for food I have about 10 kg of rice, plus enough canned food for a week (or
more, if I ration it), 6 liters of packet milk, about 20 packets soups, cooking
spices (very good for making whatever you have taste better), salt, etc. For
toiletries, I got plenty of toothpaste/toothbrushes, toilet rolls (about 2
months worth), soap/shampoo, etc.
Self defence: Nothing much, since there are strict airport rules, and can't
get a gun over here or in Singapore either. I keep a Swiss army knife on me
all the time, but that is mainly for use as a tool, as normally there won't
be any time to take it out. I learned tae kwon do when young (almost
got my black belt, but was unable due to circumstances), and am trying to learn
more
methods
and techniques of fighting. If it comes down to a fight, I am fairly confident
that I can hold my own against one or two people, but I have been trying to
improvise weapons that will allow me to escape. I have been trying to find
a place to learn Krav Maga, which is an Israeli martial art designed to teach
you to fight anywhere, any how, and
any time, against multiple opponents that may or may not be armed, with various
weapons. They focus on being ready to fight at all times using whatever it
takes to survive (aka all the dirty fighting techniques). I think that it is
a very useful martial art to learn, as it is the most realistic form of combat,
and teaches you how to improvise on the spot (They have two rules: 1. survive,
2. Try not to hurt your sparring partner.). In any case, I think the most important
thing to have is to be aware of your surroundings and people that are around
you. An armed man is hard to be beaten, unless taken by surprise, and an alert
man is hardly ever taken by surprise. As a side note, I recently bought a slingshot,
not that I expect it will be of any good for defence, but rather more for hunting
small animals if things really go south. Just need to get around to practicing
with
it.
Day to day carry: I carry with me a Swiss army knife, some medicine/first-aid,
water purification tablets (for 20 liters), a small LED light, a lighter and
some money in small notes in a small pouch close to me everywhere I go. Planning
to add on another pouch with more medical supplies, especially for this swine
flu outbreak. I also have a SOG multi-tool that I can add on, but chose not
to as people will really question what I am doing with 2 knives and all those
stuff. Also, wherever I go, I also bring along at least 1 liter of water, a
torch, a poncho, additional first-aid supplies, hand sanitizer, a bar of soap
and a couple of cereal bars. If I am on a long trip (more than a day or a few
hours by car), I would bring along additional stuff, like more fire starting
equipment, extra food, extra water, a spare torch, and a spare change.
Skills: I learned basic first aid when young, learned tae kwon do,
crude fire making (not too good), cooking, sewing (very basic, mainly for repairing/modifying
clothes) and cycling (although my area is very hilly, so I hardly cycle). I
am trying to learn more skills, like bushcraft, Krav Maga, hunting (doubt I
will be able to), and brush up on my fire starting skills, although in light
of the recent bushfires, it may be a bad idea. Also I am handy with simple
repairs (mainly a crude temporary fix), and like to innovate and make new stuff.
Swine Flu: I have been trying very hard to raise my stock of food and medicines
ever since I heard about the swine flu, but due to time (university) and financial
constraints, I can only stock up so much. I have been buying paracetamol tablets,
aspirin, face masks (box of 100, plus various other dust masks), anti-bacterial
hand gel, hydrogen peroxide, and am looking for surgical gloves, proper N95
equivalent face masks, Sambucol, more water purification tablets, antibiotics,
Betadine, bandages, etc.
Economic crisis: I have been looking around for a place to purchase silver
bullion with whatever spare cash I have, but have been unable to find a dealer.
I am hoping to get at least 150 ounces of silver in 1-ounce to 10-ounce bars
before the economy gives way, which I suspect won't be long. I pray it doesn't
happen,
as my home country will be hit really hard as it is focused heavily in the
financial sector, but being a realist, I think eventually my family will have
to move over to Australia, as at least it has farmland, natural resources and
a very social welfare-focused government as well.
Thanks for all your effort to educate people about the coming world situations
and how to prepare for it. What you are doing can mean life or death to many
people in the future when the world crashes and burns. - DieReady
JWR Replies: By all means, do team up with a rural family,
if you can. If you cache a large quantity of food with them, you will be assured
of being welcome there WTSHTF,
since you will be a benefactor for the family. In such circumstances, food
is a much better investment than silver! If you can pre-position your storage
food and
most of
your gear
there, you can
plan
to
bug out via
mo-ped.
There are two ways of looking at obstacles to preparedness: 1.) As reasons
to give up,
or 2.) as
challenges
and opportunities
for
growth. For example, your hilly terrain can be seen as an opportunity to build
strength
and endurance, rather than as an excuse for not bicycling. And just because
you can't find a local martial arts center that teaches Krav Maga, don't lapse
into inactivity.
Study whichever art is available locally. Just be sure to
find the best full
contact dojo in town. Furthermore, don't look at airport
security restrictions as a the lowest common denominator for
your
self defense preps. If you are going to be in Australia for an extended period
of time, then there is no reason why you shouldn't go ahead and purchase a
few key "dual use" self defense items, such as a half dozen 15 minute
road flares, a machete .,
and a six-C-cell
black MagLite ..You might also see if these is a local archery club--perhaps
affiliated with your local university. Practice at least twice a week with
your slingshot! They can
indeed be quite useful if
you
take
the
time
to
practice.
For your silver
purchases,
be
willing
to look
further
afield
for
dealers, or if
need
be, to
buy from a
reputable
mail
order dealer. Concentrate on the positive aspects of prepping, shepherd your
available funds, train consistently, and you'll make
progress!
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Letter Re: Atheism and Choosing Your Neighborhood »
Letter Re: Learning the Details of Self-Sufficiency
Jim,
I'd like to add an additional perspective on the letter on "Learning the Details
of Self-Sufficiency" -- the conscious
competence learning model. I'd like to pull back the shade a bit on why 'just
buying stuff' and reading books isn't going to cut it when the balloon goes
up.
Many folks are 'buying things', reading books, searching the internet with
the thought that when the time comes, they will begin living the self-sufficient
lifestyle in the country. The aforementioned letter points out the folly of
this approach. I just want to take a step back and look at why so many people
are taking an unproductive approach -- it has to do with how people assimilate
new skills.
With a new skill set (like self-sufficient living in this example) a person
at first is unconsciously incompetent (stage #1). Here a person doesn't even
know what they don't know. They certainly don't understand the ramifications
of not having mastery of the things they don't know. Most people stop right
here. They feel safe. In fact, it's not until they go a bit further into consciously
incompetent (stage #2) when they begin for the first time to understand some
of the things at which they are incompetent; and begin to realize the impact
of their incompetence on their desired outcome.
Stage 2 lasts a long time because the more a person learns, the more necessary
skills they uncover, which skills they have no experience whatsoever. It's
not until you actually eat the beans you've canned, which were stored in the
root cellar you made; which beans grew in your garden, which garden you protected
from insects, which plot you cleared from the forest, fenced from the deer,
amended the soil, selected the correct variety of bean seed, planted at the
correct depth,with the correct spacing, at the right time of year, with the
proper sun exposure, etc. Then and only then will you have begun to
have some gardening experience -- for beans. Then you can begin to appreciate
that beans
are not carrots. Carrots have different needs, and hey, wow, I wonder if all
these different vegetables, grains and fruits have different requirements?
Gee, what would happen if I grew my garden in 'compost' I bought from a local
garden center and the entire crop failed, and I couldn't buy my veggies from
Wal-Mart? Last example was a true story for me as a local nursery sold me 10
yards of 'compost' which [later] tested almost zero for N, P, & K. My crops
bolted and died within three weeks.
Stage 3 is conscious competence. This is when you can perform a skill reliably
at will. I can put up more beans this year, I know how to do it; I know how
many rows of what dimension and how much seed I need. I want to put up some
dilly beans, I know how to do that too. I can cook using the blanched and frozen
beans I grew last year.
Stage 4 is unconscious competence. This is where you aren't even aware of the
skills you are using to produce the desired result. People who reach this level
of expertise often can't teach another person how to do what they are doing
because so much ability (not knowledge -- big difference) is assumed. Have
you ever seen a craftsman produce a beautiful result, and make it look easy?
Then you
tried and found, "Hey, this is harder than it looks!" That's what
stage 4 is, and where you need to be before you risk your family's life on
homesteading in the midst of a crisis.
We've only talked about beans so far; how about production quantity gardening
for the 20 or so veggies, fruits, and grains you're going to need? How about
producing pork? Chicken? Rabbit? Lamb? Can you breed, select, grow, cull, harvest,
process, store, and prepare all of these? How about dairy operations? Retreat
security? Redundant water systems in place? Redundant power systems in place
and functioning? Productive relationships with neighbors? Suppliers? I'd like
to give you a more complete list, but I've been doing this for years now, so
I don't even know all I know!
If you aren't doing these things right now, then you won't be any good at them
in a time of need. The only way to gain new skills is by doing.
Take advantage of whatever time we have left before things get much worse,
and go do it! -
Mr. Kilo
« Letter Re: The Risk to Reward Ratio in Getting Concealed Carry Permits |Main| Letter Re: Advice on Contact Lenses »
Letter Re: Some Preparedness Lessons Learned
James,
The need for usable skills in tough times, goes without need for embellishment.
The grand question is: which skills are the most valuable? In any situation
the basic needs are obvious – food, shelter, and clothing. Choosing what
I would concentrate on learning, became predicated on what I could do, and
what the community could provide in stressful times.
I moved some time ago from the gulf coast to Tennessee to retire and begin
preparing for the coming events. I moved into a community which is pretty much
self sufficient, mostly by religious choice. Livestock husbandry ranges from
cattle (mostly for milk), goats to chickens, hogs and horses.
I began to raise goats several years ago, starting with Boer cross. After several
discussions I have crossed them with a strain of milk goat to reduce the size
(and therefore the quantity of meat to be preserved) and gain the benefit of
milk products. I researched the process of cheese making and using products initially
supplied from New England Cheese Makers, learned the processes. It was very interesting
to discover that the rennin (for assisting in cheese making) actually comes from
the stomach of ruminators, another by product of the goats.
Preserving meats became my next concern. When talking to many folks, they believe
that they will just run out and kill fresh meat when needed. Not only will the
game be decimated in no time, but without a method of preservation it is wasteful.
Preferred methods around here are smoking, honey and salt boxes for curing and
preserving. The use of honey as a preservative turns out to be one of the very
best. Honey has a natural bacteria inhibitor, and curing smoked meats in honey
just makes life better. This in turn has determined the need for bees – My
neighbor already has a couple of hives which produces enough for now. The use
of honey reduces the dependence on obtaining sources of salt. In addition they
are many maple trees in the area which folks tap during the winter and early
spring. Many families have ponds a raise fish, which are canned by cold packing
or salting and drying.
Having fresh water is a paramount concern. Even with a spring the water quality
can change with the amount of rain causing algae blooms. These can range for
digestive distress to just foul taste. The stream water cannot be used without
treatment, as we have otters, beavers, coyote, foxes, and a whole range of other
critters, so amoeba type problems are probable. Boiling water is the surest,
but is often not the most practical. Any numbers of excellent water filters are
available, but the Big Berky is the most popular here. In any case the water
has to be pre-filtered to remove organic matter. This can be done by straining
through
a clean cloth, then passing through/over a disinfecting agent such as a silver
compound, or the addition of non-detergent bleach. The next best is a cistern
collecting rain fall, but even this can have issues as it tends to clean smoke
dust and pollen from the air on its way down.
As for the vegetable gardens the goats do help with the fertilizer which is composted
and added to the garden. The area I live in is pretty much a “rock farm” so
there is a constant need to remove the rocks from the garden areas and add in
soil from the hills behind us. This soil is usually pretty acidic with all of
the hardwood trees. Most folks use lime from the feed stores – haven’t
found a good substitute yet.
Clothing is one of the details that I have struggled with. The ability to produce
cloth is beyond most of us. Wool makes for great outer wear, but lousy underwear.
Goat hair can be made into quite durable garments, somewhat at the expense of
comfort. We have chose to use GI surplus wool socks, sweaters, BDUs
(because they are very durable) and purchase and store long and regular underwear.
We
do have a real cobbler in the community that does make very nice shoes/boots,
but I still have a back up pair. Many women here weave or quilt (using discarded
clothing as well as new cloth). I do keep some “unisex” clothing
on hand for whomever – mostly in the form of overalls. They are fairly
cheap and commonly worn in the area, and during the cold weather are an additional
layer. We have had most days at or below freezing and night down to zero. I have
looked into tanning leather – it is a noxious process and can be done.
I am choosing to have the hides tanned while I still can and store them against
the future need as clothing.
Our cabin is solid cedar timbers, and smells great! The downside is that there
is a constant need to stay on top of the chinking and calking, to reduce drafts – I’ve
used 22 tubes already this winter. We thought that pellet stove would be a great
idea – wrong. First it requires electricity. With the
power out you have to fire up the generator which is noisy and uses expensive
fuel. Second the stove
can burn corn or compressed hardwood pellets. Corn is food or the animals and
us, and tough enough to grow enough as is. Besides using the corn leaves the
odor of burned popcorn as exhaust. Compressed wood pellets are used on an average
of 80# per day at a cost of ~$9.00 / day. Pulling the stove this spring and going
to a straight quality wood burning stove that can be used to cook on. To back
up a wood burning stove an axe, buck saw, splitting wedges or a maul, and or
chain saw are required based on how much free time you can devote to it. Setting
aside wood requires a year round effort to keep from killing yourself. Although
we have electricity I do have a pitcher pump ready to install in the event it
is needed. And have simple kerosene lanterns for light. I prefer the straight
wick models, as the mantels have become very had to come by recently.
Health concerns in rural living also means, that you have to have a working knowledge
of first aid and basic medicine. The Red Cross has good courses on first aid
and the older Boy Scout manuals give an acceptable knowledge as well. Around
here there is a good deal of herbal medicine practiced. This is good for preventive
and minor issues. I have chosen to invest in some older college texts on anatomy,
physiology, and pharmacology, and a physician’s desk reference. These books
help in diagnosing, but will be of minimal help if/when the main line drugs are
not available. They are great for showing how to stitch and bandage wounds more
severe than the first aid books cover. We keep a well stocked medicine chest
with off the shelf medicines, and rotate them as needed. As we find local remedies
that are effective, we also include them (i.e. willow bark tea as a substitute
for aspirin).
I have learned rudimentary blacksmith skills, and collected some of the tools
as well as books on the subject. I can fashion horseshoes, wheel rims, forge
weld, make cut nails and a few other tasks as required. There are many better
skilled in this community and it will be more time efficient to trade/buy their
services.
I have a full time gunsmithing business which has been sorely needed in this
area – seems like everyone has one that they need fixed. So much for a
retirement business….
The acquisition of books, and how to reading material can spell the difference
between existence and some degree of comfort. In addition it is my considered
opinion the education of young people is severely unbalanced. The possession
of text books, classics, and recreational reading allows one to educate children
when contact is limited. The community has a long history of home schooling.
These kids routinely pass the high school exit exams (same tests as the state
requires for graduation) with higher scores, and at an earlier age. Most parents
seek out folks whom are well versed to teach the children. Oh yea, one by product
is that the kids are very respectful, and thoughtful.
In conclusion I thought that preparation for tougher times meant more beans,
bullets, and bullion. As it turns out, the retraining of my mind and attitudes
has presented the larger challenge. Understanding how you store food, is nearly
as important as what you store. What you can make is as important as what you
can do without (toilet paper?) Knowing that one person cannot do all that is
required, only means that you learn the skills to assist your community which
will supplement everyone’s survival/ quality of life. I thought that being
retired would allow me to kick back and enjoy some good libations. It has turned
out to be the greatest learning curve of my life – and I love it. Jim’s
preparedness course is a great place to start. But the real preparedness is in
the doing! - Dennis S.
« Letter Re: Feedback on FoodSaver Vacuum Packing Systems |Main| Note from JWR: »
Lessons from Peru on Third World Living, by Tantalum Tom
I hope this can be useful to people who want a perspective into the Third
World way of life. I recently had the chance to interview two people from Peru.
One is a man who grew up in the Andes with no electricity, dirt floors, etc.
who worked his
way to becoming a geography and history teacher. The other is a former Peruvian
Special Forces soldier of 15 years. My mother in law's input is also dispersed
throughout this article. Although I have little respect for modern reporters,
I found out how difficult it can be to interview someone.
When I first started probing into the Peruvian way of life, I was shown a series
of photos, They were of the Geography teacher's family making cheese, so I
will start with that.
In the true Latino way, after I had asked him many times to get a copy of the
photos so I could post them, and many affirmative responses, he never sent
them. He said yes to my face so he wouldn't offend me by saying “no.” I'm
not offended, I can see why he wouldn't want 178,000 people looking at them,
and I know its the Latino way. This is definitely a cultural difference. I've
seen
this occurrence hundreds of times. The first picture was his brother
squatting (no stool) next to a cow milking it. The cow's hind legs were tied
together so it wouldn't kick. No stall. This
was in the open. He was wearing Yanqii rubber “tire tread” cut
mining belt sandals.
Cheese is made every single day. There is no refrigeration for the milk available.
This is how he explained to me the cheese making process. I am not a cheese
maker, so I don't know the accepted modern way to do this. In fact, neither
does this mans family. They just know their way that they've used for the last
five centuries or more, and it works. It makes what they call “queso
fresco” or
fresh cheese. I know of no American supermarket version except in heavily Latino
areas.
The daily labor of cheese making, not including the milking, is about a half
an hour.
The first thing that is done, is the coagulant needs to be prepared. This is
not included in the half-hour, as it is something that is already set up and
renewed easily each day.
These mountain people take a pigs stomach, wash it, sew up one end, then stuff
with green banana peel, cut up limes, and some kind of leaf he doesn't know
the name of, until it is big and round. The empty spaces between the solid
ingredients are filled with the whey from the last cheese they made, or water
to start a new batch. The other end of the stomach is sewn up, and they smoke
it above their crude indoor fire pit for 7 months. When it is really reeallllyyyy
sour, it is ready. Every time they remove some, they replace it with whey.
Rennet
is what is being extracted from the pig stomach. Slowly these people are switching
to rennet pills, so this
way is being lost. The imported German pills come from a pharmacy where you
can buy anything you can afford, antibiotics, hypodermic drugs & needles,
etc. with little restriction.
They take some of this mixture ( I believe about 1/2 to 1 cup) and mix it with
their milk in a plastic bucket. It looked like a two gallon bucket. I noticed
that one of the buckets formerly contained latex paint. Buckets are extremely
useful with innumerable uses. They pay about three dollars for a used bucket.
(that's a lot for subsistence
farmers) About 15 minutes later,
the milk has solidified. It is broken up with their hands into small chunks,
then patted down to the bottom gently. The whey stays on top. It can be saved
to drink, but usually discarded after refilling the pig stomach. After the
whey is discarded, the remains are placed in a deep tray and broken up again
by hand until it is soft small balls, salt is added during this step. Next
it is stuffed into a mold for a few days, then smoked over their cooking fire
to dry and cure for a few more days. Cheese made like this, according to one
who lived it, is good for at least six months with no refrigeration.
In the village, the people are extraordinarily tight knit. They are as unified
as unified can be. Everyone knows everyone. I estimate it was a community of
about 200. Everyone helps who needs it. If you need a house built, just stake
out an area, and make some food! It will be up in a few days. Building codes?
Huh? The roofs are covered with a fiber-cement corrugated sheeting. He was
very proud to have it. It must be better than tiles. (Tiles are so old fashioned)
Nobody will hurt you anywhere in town. His anecdote was “If you'd just
had a drink, and wanted to take a nap, you could just lay down anywhere and
nobody would bother you.” People there are honest and trustworthy. The
very unfortunate part is that the youth are loosing their values and morals.
I personally attribute this to the television that infected his community 13
years ago.
In his tiny town there was no electricity until 13 years ago. It is hydroelectric.
He claims it is extremely clean. He said gas driven generators are nearly non-existent
(maybe at some mines or other large industrial complex) Photovoltaic is extremely
rare. How can we expect the poorest to use the most expensive (per watt hour)
electricity generating technology? Even the western world has trouble affording
it! The electricity powers street lights--I counted seven--indoor lights,
and televisions.
I was told that quite often people have their guinea pig farms indoors, in their
living/cooking/eating quarters with its accompanying filth. They have public
outhouses. They dig their pits about 4m deep. This place is blessed with a source
of clean water. They have water from a fresh spring across a small valley and
up a hill. No pump is needed to get the water to the public spring head, all
gravity. If it wasn't for their spring, they'd be boiling everything. According
to this man, and a couple other people, a populace can become accustomed to fetid
horrible water, and not get sick. They say a daily occurrence is to see simultaneous
deification, dead animals (probably including human), clothes washing, bathing
and drinking all in the same river! Yuck! I don't know their definition of “sick” though.
Strange though as this is, I find it more odd that they only drink bottled water
here in New Jersey, because the “pipes aren't safe” to them.
They grow all their own produce. Anything left is donkey driven to the nearest
town up to three days travel away. Natural is normal there. You either get your
food
from
your own garden, or at an open air farmers market in your town. Most farming
is manual.
Big farms as well as small. Horses and cows will plow, but there aren't any/many
horse drawn machines. Lots of different sized shovels and hoes are used. Mechanization
with tractors is only near cities. Nearly everything is produced locally and
consumed locally. According to this one source, he believes that more is produced
by hand and locally than mechanized and transported. I tend to agree, given everything
I've heard also. Flies are natural too, right? They crawl all over, and people
don't have screens on their windows or doors. Ignorance is quite prevalent. Not
stupidity though, that's different.
This man clearly stated that if there ever were some collapse, his city of
birth
would be absolutely fine, and wouldn't even notice the difference.
I showed him how to get a copy of the book “Where There is No Doctor” he
was excited and will send one to his village health worker. I also steered him
to
the Third World
Reference Library web site, but alas, we found it is mostly in
a
foreign language to him. He did note that some of the Spanish language literature
was
published by his alma mater. He had one eye that
opened farther than the other... He has been through a lot.
Horrible inflation lasted 2-3 years before
the currency changed twice. People starved to death. More and more money available,
prices climbing daily. People
hoarded commodities for days to weeks speculating to get a higher price. Logic
aside, that is what happened. People who paid for round trip passage somewhere
were denied the return trip, it had become too expensive. Oops, stuck.
If you think water-boarding is torture, listen up. Peru had internal terrorists,
they have been extinct for many years. The Terrorists would cut down power
poles, block roads, kill and create, well, terror. The terrorists
wanted a socialistic government. Both the geography teacher and the special
forces soldier understand that socialism has been tried many times and in many
countries,
and it doesn't work. The Peruvian Army and Fuerza
de Operaciones Especiales (FOES) special forces would fight them. They would also retrieve information
from the enemy in creative ways,
for example, they would have a person stretched out tied to a pole, laying
horizontal,
suspended some distance above the ground, slowly rotating over a fire until
they decided they would part with sensitive information, etc. They would also
kill
anyone and everyone associated with, including family, friends and acquaintances
of known terrorists. It worked. They had been dormant for a long time. They
may be on the rise again though. (not sure) Peru is also still dealing with
this
extremely high collateral damage, and I'm not sure if it continues today.
I can find next to nothing about the FOES online, even on Peruvian Google,
except the Youtube videos he showed me. Look up in YouTube “Comandos
Peruanos” and “FOES
Peruano” if interested in more. To be in the FOES, one had to show their
valor. They showed it by ripping open live dogs and eating their hearts and
livers raw/living. Hand-grenade hot-potato is a popular party game. Having
someone shoot
a machine gun between you and your comrade too. They are trained in martial
arts, knife fighting, etc. I know my cousin, a SEAL,
told me that they only use their
knifes to open MREs.
This Peruvian guy used them for much, much more. (My cousin also told me that
push ups cannot be made into an aerobic activity,
I figured
he'd done enough to know, so I had asked him. “We're still human,” he
said.)
Yeah, that ain't Politically Correct, as my friend Karl would say.
This person also worked for private security firm. He laid out to me how their
system worked. Sorry, but all the titles are in Spanish so when I translate
them, they will sound weird.
The first guy is called “gerente de recursos huamnos” or
Human Resources director.
He's in charge of the whole company.
Next they have one “Jefe de Seguridad” Security Leader.
He's in charge of everything security.
Below him are “Inspectores de Seguridad” Security inspectors.
These people have a zone they are responsible for, and they dispatch and are
in charge of their “vigilantes de seguridad” Security guards.
The security guards have a “full ration of weapons and ammunition”.
They are not allowed full power arms. Short barrel semi-auto hand guns and
shot guns. I'm not sure If they also water down the powder charge or not, but
they
can not have full powered military style weapons. Again, this is private security,
so people pay for these services. There is lots of shooting going on by these
guys. Rich people have electronic security systems linked to these “vigilantes.” Electric
fences and walls topped with electrified wires are good deterrents. The voltage
and amperage varies on your preference in cooked flesh: Zapped, Shocked, Lethal
or Char. Broken glass topped compound walls seem to be a worldwide safety
measure. Bars across doors are normal.
The official police are part of the delinquent gangs congregating on the corners.
The police beat people and abuse them other ways.
Taxes in Peru.
This is confirmed with at least three sources of small businesses.
If you earn $1,000 in your business, you pay $20 taxes. (2%!) Wages are not
taxed.
Low low property taxes.
Everything in Peru is repaired many times before it is replaced. A guy with
two lathes and a mill can make it quite well re-boring motorcycle cylinders.
A new
car there costs a lot more than repairing everything and painting
and upholstering. Like $1,000 to refurbish a car, versus $15,000 new! If the
part
isn't
available at a store,
you go and get it made. This applies to industrial machinery, commercial, everything.
He gets it that its the system here [in the US] that prohibits the refurbishing
of anything.
If you own land, but do not develop it, the extra poor will come and squat
on it. They will build their shanty towns out of woven palm-like leaves into
walls,
and fill up your space. If someday you get tired of it, and want to get rid
of them, just call the police and they'll burn it down and drive the people
away. They'll come back, and you'll burn it down again, until one side gives
up.
The military also corrupt. This guy was ordered to remove thousands of
bullets from their casings and to sell the brass for some commander. In fact,
when the
military was in charge of the whole country, it was openly corrupt, and unstable.
This is the cause of Peru's continued Third World status. Government corruption
and instability. They have plenty of natural resources, oil and minerals, gold,
et cetera. This man told me “we take it out of the ground, and form it
into rough ingots, then send it somewhere where they know what to do with it.” So
they could have a fully functioning economy, but they don't.
I wish I knew what to do to keep that from happening here. Nobody has any (legal)
answers as for what to do, besides get ready and get far far away.
« Letter Re: Deflation Possibly Followed by Mass Inflation? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: A Suggested Checklist for Preparedness Newbies
Here's a beginner's list I made for my [elderly] father today:
Food
{Brown pearl] rice does not store well. Neither does cooking oil so that needs to be fresh.
No, Crisco doesn't count.
Coconut oil would be your best bet.
Wheat berries - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Beans - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Mylar bags
Spices
Salt
Country Living grain mill
propane tanks, small stove and hoses to connect
freeze dried fruits, vegetables, eggs and meat if you can find them.
Water
500 gallons
of water [storage capacity. Rainwater catchment is a common practice
in Hawaii]
Water filter
Cooking
Cast Iron Cookware
Firearms
FN PS 90
10 PS 90 magazines
5.7 handgun
10 FN 5.7 handgun magazines
5.7 ammo
Training: Front Sight four day defensive
handgun course. (Note: eBay sometimes has
course certificates for $100!)
Body armor: Nick at BulletProofME.com
Medical
Personal medications
Augmentin antibiotic
Up to date dental work
Painkillers
Bandages
Iodine
Anti-fungal spray
Finances
$10,000 cash in small bills
100 one-ounce silver coins (GoldDealer.com or Tulving.com)
Transport
Gasoline in 5 gallon cans or better yet, this.
Gas stabilizer
Mountain bikes
Air pump
Miscellany
Flashlights
Rechargeable Batteries
Battery
charger
Hand held walkie talkies
Topographical map of your area
Spare eyeglasses
Shortwave radio
Home generated power
12 volt battery system
Good backpack
Good knife
Good compass
Good shoes
Bar soap
Toothbrushes
Dental floss
Toilet paper
Fishing kit
Salt licks
Connibear traps
Regards, - SF in Hawaii
JWR Adds: The following is based on the assumption that SF's
father also lives in Hawaii: Because of the 10 round magazine limit for handguns,
I recommend that Hawaiians purchase only large
bore
handguns for self defense--such
as .45
ACP.
Both the
Springfield
Armory XD .45 Compact or the Glock Model 30 would both be good choices. The "high
capacity" advantage of smaller caliber
handguns
is not available to civilians in Hawaii, so you might as well get a more potent
man stopper, given the arbitrary 10 round limitation.
« Letter Re: When Unprepared Folks Show Up on Your Doorstep |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Adapt to Survive, by Elizabeth B.
You are incredibly mistaken if you think you can store up enough to see you
through bad times. You are wrong, dead wrong. When I say store up, I’m
talking, food, provisions, tools, barter equipment, and whatever.
The key to survival will be adaptation, just like in nature. Those who survive
will be those who can readily adapt to a changing environment. I know many
of you are sitting on little mountains of barrels, cans, packages and feel
like you have an edge. Simply put, you will not be able to squirrel away enough.
What happens when the stash runs out?
I was shocked to read this week (October 31, 2008) when a SurvivalBlog reader
wrote:
“Is there a good book that you can recommend on food storage for someone
like me that is on a budget and wants to "do it myself”, but not go
so far as ‘grow it myself?’ ”
How long will the bad times last? Who knows? What will you do when the stash
runs out? Barter those silver and gold coins that no one can eat?
Survival skills depend on knowledge and practice. If you have children, take
them out of soccer and dance classes and immediately put them in Girl Scouts
or Boy Scouts. Look until you find a good troop or better yet, join up, take
the required training, and begin your own troop. You will influence more lives
than you can possibly imagine. You and your children will have outdoor living
experiences that will see them through the rest of their lives. Did you ever
cook your food over a wood campfire and lie on the ground scanning the night
sky for meteors with the smell of smoke and coyote yelps lingering in the air?
Scout troops teach children community living and cooperation, both critical
survival skills.
Read everything you can until you become familiar with survival concepts and
theory. Then you need to begin to practice, practicing daily. First of all,
move out of your apartment into a house. If you can’t afford to buy,
then you shouldn’t be storing food. Rent if you can’t buy. You
don’t have enough room to practice and store your supplies in an apartment,
no matter what anyone says.
Here is a short list of skills you and your loved ones need:
* Water: Harvesting, storage, filtration, sterilization
* Gardening: How to plant, save and store seed, make soil, propagate.
* Fire: Get rid of that propane tank and charcoal briquettes, practice
fire-starting
with a variety of materials that you find. Build many types of fires. Accumulate
a couple of iron items such as a good grill or tripod, dutch oven, lifters,
and work gloves … learn how to cook over coals, on a plank, in a box oven,
in a trench, in a hay box, in a tin can, in a rocket stove…know how to
dry and smoke … know how to build a fire anywhere on any surface and how
to improvise safe surfaces. Buy as many matches as you can. Matches are an excellent
storage item. They’ll never go bad and will be a high demand item.
* Shelter: Practice making shelters from as many materials you find on
hand for a variety of conditions. Sleep outside in different weather as
often as you can. You’ll grow to love it and will discover the night
sky.
* Solar cooking. Make solar cookers from boxes, aluminum foil, glass jars. Practice,
practice, practice throughout the changing seasons
* Tools: Know how to clean, sharpen, store tools; get very familiar with
your ax and saw and hammer and pliers. Feel free to stock up on nails and screws
and wire.
* Cooking: Unfortunately, the current generation of young adults really
knows practically nothing about tasty and thrifty food preparation. This is easily
remedied. You eat multiple times a day. Look on each meal as a practice event.
If you have children, shut down the smorgasbord of choices for each picky eater.
Everyone needs to know how to eat beans and rice with a few additions such as
meat for flavoring, herbs and spices to make each meal new and palatable. Make
soup a daily fare. It won’t matter if you have thousands of dollars of
food stored if it is not familiar foods that people enjoy. There is no SPAM or
tuna in my storage. I won’t eat SPAM, and I’m morally opposed to
eating tuna due to depletion of our oceans and crashing fish populations. Learn
to eat more simply now, today. Eat each meal at home, don’t eat out. Practice
serving vegetarian meals at least once a day. Terrific cookbooks like Apocalypse
Chow and Backpacker's Recipes can point you in the right direction.
Can
you
bake
bread in a dutch oven? Can you make pasta with wheat and a pasta machine?
* Food. I saved this topic for last because it is so huge. First, buy some sturdy
gardening tools from Craig's
List. The older ones are better. Read up, talk
to gardeners, go to free community gardening events, and begin now, yesterday
was already getting very, very late to learn this skill. Food is going to be
much more important than just stashing and hoarding. Real freedom comes from
being
responsible for your own food. When you are out of the apartment, you’ll
be able to prepare for your chickens. True, you might not be able to house them
right now due to city or HOA regulations,
but the time will come. Be ready for your little chicks and their fabulous eggs.
You need to plant fruit trees specific
to your zone which will thrive. It takes three years or so for fruit production.
In my incredibly tiny area I have pomegranate, olive, apples, figs, blackberry,
strawberries, and bananas. Look on every square inch of your yard as an opportunity
for food supply. Practice container gardening -- you never know. Composting and
mulching cannot be overstated or overlooked. You should never throw another scrap
of fruit or vegetable away again. Get a dog for the other food scraps, friendship,
and protection. Invite wild birds into your garden. Learn what the sun requirements
are for specific plants and what your garden can supply. Include edible native
plants that you know you can serve in a pinch. I have mesquite, roses, cacti,
lilies, and edible flowers. Learn to eat a huge variety of foods. Learn to prepare
a huge variety of tasty foods. This will truly be the key to survival in the
future. My Great Depression-era father thought that pickled pig’s feet,
cornbread crumbled into buttermilk, pinto beans with cornbread, and greens were
some of
life’s greatest pleasures. Picky eaters will not be survivors. Complainers
will not be survivors.
Finally, forget the batteries. They won’t last forever and you can’t
buy/store enough for the rest of your life. You are contributing to the toxic
waste stream by buying batteries. If you just insist on having a flashlight,
then go buy a case of Faraday
flashlights that work on the principal of magnetic
induction. A radio is actually a terrific idea. Get a hand crank dynamo or solar
radio. Like I said, ditch the battery idea. Prepare to adapt to a new life. [JWR
Adds: Be warned that most of the Chinese-made "dynamo" hand crank radios
on
the
market
are
very flimsy and
are unlikely to last more than a month of daily use. I recommend the BayGen
radios,
made
in South Africa. They are built to last.]
Critical issues such as waste removal, weapons, spirituality, residual recycling,
and community need to be in the back of your mind, but that is for another essay.
As you reach for an item in the store, ask yourself this question: What if I
could not buy this today or ever again, would I miss it? What could I use instead?
Can I do without this today and forever? Rethink your lifestyle and prepare for
another test of adaptability that may be thrown at humanity. Throughout time,
we have been tested whether it has been by ice ages, wars, famine, or plague.
If you can adapt, you can survive.
I’m only speaking in generalities because it is up to you to adapt to
survive. You need to find out the information for yourself and think of new ways
to live.
Survival is not only about surviving, it is about living and enjoying life. It’s
impossible to teach someone everything there is to know, at some point you have
to depend on yourself. Check YouTube.com for endless videos on any subject in
the world. I’ve improved my vegetable growing methods by learning from
experts on YouTube. In the end, your existence will depend on your own mind
and your own heart and your own hands.
[JWR Adds: While Elizabeth has made some excellent points,
she has overstated her case for adaptation. There
are some critical uses for both propane tanks and rechargeable batteries that
justify their inclusion
in preparedness
planning.
Granted, they represent finite supplies. But I'd rather have them in
reserve for a critical situation and not need them. The inverse is not appealing.
(Needing them, but not having them.) Imagine if you needed to conduct impromptu
surgery. Would you prefer to perform a surgery by the light of fat oil lamps?
I disagree with her assertion about not storing extra tools. Tools will be
worth their weight in gold. A lot of things can be improvised and adapted,
but high
quality tools--especially those
with
tight
tolerances cannot. You
can probably improvise a plow, but you cannot improvise a Unimat lathe. And
consider this: With a Unimat lathe (in properly trained hands) and
given enough high speed steel stock you can build just about any tool
including
another Unimat lathe. Thus
a "stored" tool can be eminently useful for "adaptation."
Lastly, keep in mind that preparing to survive in a warm southwestern climate
is considerably different than in cloudy, cold northern climes. The colder
the
climate, the
deeper the larder that you'll need. (Since growing seasons are short, and in
some years with early frosts you will have hardly any garden yield. Stored
fuel (firewood, coal, et cetera) is similarly important in cold climates.
There may
come a
year when you cannot cut a fresh supply of firewood--say you break a leg or
have a major illness. That is why it is very important to have several years
worth of firewood on hand.]
« Letter Re: Food Riots in Haiti |Main| Note from JWR: »
The Precepts of My Survivalist Philosophy
In the past week I've had three newcomers to SurvivalBlog.com write and ask
me to summarize my world view. One of them asked: "I could spend days
looking through [the] archives of your [many months of] blog posts. But there
are hundreds
of them. Can you tell me where you stand, in just a page? What distinguishes
the "Rawlesian" philosophy from other [schools of] survivalist thought?"
I'll likely add a few items to this list as time goes on, but here is a general
summary of my precepts:
Modern Society is Increasingly Complex, Interdependent, and Fragile. With
each passing year, technology progresses and chains of interdependency lengthen.
In the past 30 years, chains of retail supply have grown longer and longer.
The food on your supermarket shelf does not come from local farmers. It often
comes from hundreds or even thousands of miles away. This has created an alarming
vulnerability to disruption. Simultaneously, global population is still increasing
in a near geometrical progression. At some point that must end, most likely
with a sudden and sharp drop in population. The lynchpin is the grid. Without
functioning power grids, modern industrial societies will collapse within weeks.
Civilization is Just a Thin Veneer. In the absence of law
an order, men quickly revert to savagery. As was illustrated by the rioting
and looting that accompanied disasters in the past three decades, the transition
from tranquility to absolute barbarism can occur overnight. People expect tomorrow
to be just like today, and they act accordingly. But then comes a unpredictable
disaster that catches the vast majority unprepared. The average American family
has four days worth of food on hand. When that food is gone, we'll soon see
the thin veneer stripped away.
People Run in Herds and Packs, but Both Follow Natural Lines of
Drift. Most
people are sheep ("sheeple").
A few are wolves that prey on others. But just a few of us are more like sheepdogs--we
think independently, and instead of
predation,
we are
geared toward protecting and helping others. People naturally follow natural lines
of drift--the path of least resistance. When the Schumer hits
the fan, 99% of urbanites will try to leave the cities on freeways. The highways
and freeways will soon resemble parking lots. This means that you need to be
prepared to both get
out of town ahead of the rush and to use lightly-traveled back roads.
Plan,
study and practice.
Lightly Populated Areas are Safer than High Density Areas. With
a few exceptions, less population means fewer problems. WTSHTF, there will
be a mass exodus from the cities. Think of it as an army that is spreading
out across a battlefield: The wider that
they
are
spread,
the less effective that they are. The inverse
square law hasn't been repealed.
Show Restraint, But Always Have Recourse to Lethal Force. My
father often told me, "It
is better to have a gun and not need it, than need a gun, and not have it." I
urge readers to use less than lethal means when safe and practicable, but at
times there is not a satisfactory substitute for well-aimed lead going down
range at high velocity.
There is Strength in Numbers. Rugged individualism is all
well and good, but it takes ore than one man to defend a retreat. Effective
retreat defense necessitates having at least two families to provide 24/7 perimeter
security. But of course every individual added means having another mouth to
feed. Absent having an unlimited budget and an infinite larder, this necessitates
striking a balance when deciding the size of a retreat group.
There are Moral Absolutes. The foundational morality
of the civilized world is best summarized in the Ten
Commandments. Moral relativism and secular humanism are slippery slopes.
The terminal moraine at the base of these slopes is a rubble pile consisting
of either despotism and pillage, or anarchy and the depths of depravity. I
believe
that
it takes both faith and friends to survive perilous times. For more background
on that, see my Prayer
page.
Racism Ignores Reason. People should be judged as individuals.
Anyone that make blanket statements about other races is ignorant that there
are both good and bad individuals in all groups. I have accepted The
Great Commission with sincerity."Go forth into all nations" means
exactly that:
all nations. OBTW, I feel grateful that SurvivalBlog is now read
in more than 100 countries. I have been given a bully pulpit,
and I intend to use it for good and edifying purposes.
Skills Beat Gadgets and Practicality Beats Style. The modern
world is full of pundits, poseurs, and Mall
Ninjas. Preparedness is not just about
accumulating a pile of stuff. You need practical skills, and those
only come with study, training, and practice.
Any
armchair
survivalist
can
buy a set
of stylish camouflage fatigues and an M4gery Carbine
encrusted with umpteen accessories. Style points should not be mistaken
for genuine skills and
practicality.
Plentiful Water and Good Soil are Crucial. Modern mechanized
farming, electrically pumped irrigation, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides
can make deserts bloom. But when the grid goes down, deserts and marginal farmland
will revert to their natural states. In my estimation, the most viable places
to survive in the midst of a long term societal collapse will be those with
reliable summer rains
and rich
topsoil.
Tangibles Trump Conceptuals. Modern fiat currencies are generally
accepted, but have essentially no backing. Because they are largely a byproduct
of interest bearing debt, modern currencies are destined to inflation. In
the long run, inflation dooms fiat
currencies to collapse. The majority of
your assets should be invested in
productive farm land and other tangibles such as useful hand tools. Only after
you have your key logistics squared away, anything extra should
be invested in silver and gold.
Governments Tend to Expand their Power to the Point that They Do Harm. In
SurvivalBlog, I often warn of the insidious tyranny of the Nanny
State. If
the state where you live becomes oppressive, then don't hesitate to relocate.
Vote with your feet!
There is Value in Redundancy. A common saying of my
readers is: "Two
is one, and one is none." You must be prepared
to provide for your family in a protracted period of societal disruption. That
means storing up all of the essential "beans, bullets, and Band-Aids" in quantity.
If commerce is disrupted by a disaster, at least in the short term you will
only have your own logistics to fall back on. The more that you have stored,
the
more
that
you
will have
available for barter and charity.
A Deep Larder is Essential. Food storage is one of the key
preparations that I recommend. Even if you have a fantastic self-sufficient
garden and pasture ground, you must always have food storage that you can fall
back on in the event that your crops fail due to drought, disease, or infestation.
Tools Without Training Are Almost Useless. Owning a gun doesn't
make someone a "shooter" any more than owning a surfboard makes someone a surfer.
With proper training and practice, you will be miles ahead of the average citizen.
Get advanced medical
training. Get the best firearms
training that you can afford. Learn about amateur radio from your local
affiliated ARRL club.
Practice raising a vegetable garden each summer. Some skills are only perfected
over
a period
of years.
Old Technologies are Appropriate Technologies. In
the event of a societal collapse, 19th Century (or earlier) technologies such
as a the blacksmith's forge, the treadle sewing machine, and the horse-drawn
plow
will be
far easier
to re-construct than modern technologies.
Charity is a Moral Imperative. As a Christian, I feel morally
obligated to assist others that are less fortunate. Following the Old Testament
laws of Tzedakah (charity
and tithing), I believe that my responsibility begins with my immediate family
and expands in successive rings to supporting
my immediate
neighborhood
and
church, to my
community, and beyond, as resources allow. In short, my philosophy is to "give
until it hurts" in times of disaster.
Buy Life Assurance, not Life Insurance. Self-sufficiency
and self-reliance are many-faceted. You need to systematically provide for
Water, Food, Shelter, Fuel, First Aid,
Commo,
and, if need be, the tools to enforce Rule
308.
Live at Your Retreat Year-Round. If your financial and family
circumstances allow it, I strongly recommend that you relocate
to a safe area and live there year-round. This has several advantages,
most notably that will prevent burglary of your retreat logistics and
allow you to regularly
tend to gardens, orchards, and livestock. It will also remove the stress of
timing a "Get Out of Dodge" trip at the11th hour.
If circumstances dictate that you can't live at your retreat year round, then
at least have
a caretaker and stock the vast majority of your logistics in advance, since
you may only have one trip there before roads are impassable.
Exploit Force Multipliers. Night vision gear, intrusion
detection sensors, and radio communications equipment are key force
multipliers. Because
these use high technology they cannot be depended upon in a long term collapse,
but in the short term, they can provide a big advantage. Some low technologies
like barbed wire and defensive road cables also provide advantages and can
last for several decades.
Invest Your Sweat Equity. Even if some of
you have a millionaire's budget, you need to learn how to do things for yourself,
and
be willing to get your hands dirty. In a societal collapse, the division of
labor will be reduced tremendously. Odds are that the only "skilled craftsmen" available
to build a shed, mend a fence, shuck corn, repair an engine, or pitch manure
will be you.and
your family. A byproduct of sweat equity is muscle tone and proper body weight.
Hiring someone to deliver three cords of firewood is a far cry from
felling, cutting, hauling, splitting, and stacking it yourself.
Choose Your Friends Wisely. Associate yourself with skilled
doers, not "talkers." Seek out people that share your
outlook and morality. Living in close confines with other families is sure
to cause friction but that will be minimized if you share a common religion
and norms of behavior.You can't learn every skill yourself. Assemble a team
that
includes members with medical knowledge, tactical skills, electronics experience,
and traditional practical skills.
There is No Substitute for Mass. Mass stops bullets. Mass
stops gamma radiation. Mass stops (or at least slows down ) bad guys from entering
a home and depriving its residents of life and property. Sandbags are cheap,
so buy plenty of them. When planning your retreat house, think: medieval
castle.
(See the SurvivalBlog Archives for the many articles and letters on Retreat
Architecture.)
Always Have a Plan B and a Plan C. Regardless of your pet
scenario and your personal grand plan of survival, you need to be flexible
and adaptable. Situations and circumstances change. Always keep a G.O.O.D. kit
handy, even if you are fortunate enough to live at your retreat year-round.
Be Frugal. I grew up in a family that still remembered both
our pioneer history and the more recent lessons of the Great Depression. One
of our family mottos is: "Use
it up, wear it out, make do, or do without."
Some Things are Worth Fighting For. I encourage my readers
to avoid trouble, most importantly via relocation to safe areas where trouble
is unlikely to come to visit. But there may come an unavoidable day that you
have
to
make a stand to defend your own family or your neighbors. Further, if you value
your liberty, then be prepared to fight for it, both for yourself and for
the sake
of
your progeny.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Calculating The Bullion Value of US Silver Coins »
Letter Re: Self-Sufficiency--How Do We Do It All?
Dear Memsahib and Jim,
I am a daily SurvivalBlog reader and contributor, along with my husband.
I am very interested in learning more how Memsahib and other retreat
women
manage to do all that they do. How does a day or week in your life go? How
do you can, bake, cook, shear, spin, weave, knit, sew, teach, et cetera and
get it
all done?
We are moving to our retreat soon. I have baked, cooked, knit, learned to spin
and weave, and have canned in the past, but not all at once. I forgot to mention
clean, wash, take care of a garden, etc. etc.
We need a blog [post] about how to accomplish everything and remain sane.
Not to mention home school and run a family, continue church life, etc.
For those of us who have been working and raising a family in a large town
and are moving to a retreat life, we need some how to's!!!
The order of things is of the most importance or we will never accomplish all
our tasks!!!
Memsahib, does your work every stop? Do you feel like you have no personal
time?
I also work as a registered nurse and will try to continue with my specialty
in teaching young mothers how to breast feed and care for their newborns.
Thank you for your input from all of us women who will try to "do it all" on
our retreat sites. Thanks again, - Kathie
The Memsahib Replies: Thank you so much for your huge vote
of confidence. How nice to think there is a woman out there who thinks that
I do it all! :-) First
let me say first, no I
don't do it all. And secondly I don't worry about doing it all either.
I'm writing this reply specifically to married women with children. The most
important thing is to keep your priorities right: I believe the correct order
is: God, your husband, your children, and then everything else after that. Also
remember it is not up to you to insure the survival of your
family. God is in control of everything. And after God is your husband. I hope
this will lift some
if the burden that you are feeling. Don't shoulder the burden of the family's
survival yourself. That is not your role. I think that is usurping your husband's
role
of provider and protector of the family.Your job is to be a helpmeet to your
husband.
Okay, that said, I have acquired a lot of skills that could be put to use in
TEOTWAWKI, but I do not try to do them all now. I think to attempt that would
put me in an early grave like my pioneer great grandmothers! I think this is
time for learning preparation skills, but if you tried to actually do them all
there is no way you would have time to learn any new skills. For example I have
a lot of food preservation skills. But at this present time most of our larder
is full of mostly purchased foodstuffs. For the satisfaction of it, I have fed
my family entire meals from food I personally raised including the milk that
came fresh from our cow. It feels great to know I can do it. But I don't try
to do it on a day to day basis.
There are some things that we do that allow for extra time in my schedule. We
don't own a television. I think I get a lot more done for the lack of watching
television. Also, I do not have a full time job outside the home. Not having
to commute saves a lot of time. Another thing I attribute to getting more done
is the fact that we are out in the middle of nowhere, so I don't shop. There
is no place to shop. Every two months or so we stock up to top off our supplies.
I also know the capacity of our larder well. I'm very strict with my family about
sticking to the list! This saves time and money when we are out shopping. Also
we only shop for clothes twice a year when we visit family in the big city. My
sister knows all the great thrift stores. And, she knows which department stores
have the best sale prices on shoes socks and underwear. If we didn't have growing
children we probably could go several years without buying clothes! By the way.
I do know how to sew clothes. And I know how to knit sweaters, hats, socks, mittens,
and such. But I don't make my family's clothes because I don't particularly enjoy
sewing. (For now, I go to the thrift store. I often can buy down jackets, Merino
wool sweaters and nearly new blue jeans for $3 each, and shirts, slacks, blouses,
skirts, dresses for less than than that.)
Another thing is that our family does which frees up quite a bit of time for
me
is cleaning up after themselves. Our children for example clear their places
after
meals,
take their dishes to the sink and putt the scraps in the chicken bucket, and
rinse their plates and glasses, and put them in the dishwasher. When there are
clothes to be folded at our house all the children fold and put away their own
clothes. Our children also have an individual chore based on their age, such
as setting and clearing the table, unloading the dishwasher, keeping the wood
box filled, and feeding their pets. And you may have realized by now I make use
of
all the
modern appliances which make household chores quicker. In the past, we've lived
without running water and without electricity. I know I can survive without them,
and
I may have
to in the future. But I sure enjoy the luxury of having them now!
The "survival skills' that I do practice daily are the ones that I personally
really enjoy. I practice them as recreation and relaxation. For me personally
that is raising small livestock. I really enjoy going out to the barn and feeding
my critters. I especially enjoy my sheep because I also enjoy the fiber arts.
I also really enjoy gardening. So my hobbies dovetail nicely with my husbands
desire to be well prepared. So what hobbies and interests do you have? Which
ones could you cultivate as prepping? Just because I don't care for sewing doesn't
mean that it wouldn't be a great dovetail for you.
You might say another one of my hobbies is acquiring "life skills".
Some people have a personality that is suited for focusing on one skill and developing
that skill to a master level. My personality is more suited to trying everything.
I try to make the most of each situation in which we've lived to learn what I
can. My motto is: when God gives you zucchini take the opportunity to experiment
baking, drying, frying zucchinis! The older women of the communities we've lived
in have been wonderful teachers. They have taught me how to can pickles, make
grape juice, milk goats, make soap, knit socks as well as sharing the abundance
of their gardens and orchards. But I in no way feel compelled to now makes all
the food we eat from scratch, knit all our clothes, make all our soap, and neither
should you!
I would be remiss if I did not say that I think it is very important to use this
time of liberty of ideas and travel to attend Bible studies. Yes, you can and
should read and study the Bible at home. But, I find that the commitment to do
a study with other believers disciplines me to stay in the Word even when life
gets hectic. And our pastor has many valuable insights into the Scriptures. If
you have the ability to attend a good Bible study, then do it! You
may not always have that opportunity because of poor health, high gas prices,
lack of transportation,
or lack of religious freedom. Reading the stories of prisoners of war, I am struck
by how their knowledge of God's word helped them endure. As the Bible says, "make
the most of time, because the days are evil".
« Letter Re: Best Items to Store for Barter and Charity? |Main| Note from JWR: »
From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists"
Start your retreat stocking effort by first composing a List of Lists, then
draft prioritized lists for each subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or
in a spreadsheet if you are a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out
a hard copy for use when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor
your lists to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density
as well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a retreat
in a coastal area is likely to have a far different list than someone living
in the Rockies.
As I often mention in my lectures and radio interviews, a great way to create
truly commonsense preparedness lists is to take a three-day weekend TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” with your family. When you come home from work on
Friday evening, turn off your main circuit breaker, turn off your gas main
(or propane tank), and shut your main water valve (or turn off your well pump.)
Spend that weekend in primitive conditions. Practice using only your storage
food, preparing it on a wood stove (or camping stove.)
A “TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” will surprise you. Things that
you take for granted will suddenly become labor intensive. False assumptions
will be shattered. Your family will grow closer and more confident. Most importantly,
some of the most thorough lists that you will ever make will be those written
by candlelight.
Your List of Lists should include: (Sorry that this post
is in outline form, but it would take a full length book to discus all of
the following in great detail)
Water List
Food Storage List
Food Preparation List
Personal List
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
Nuke Defense List
Biological Warfare Defense List
Gardening List
Hygiene List/Sanitation List
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
Fuels List
Firefighting List
Tactical Living List
Security-General
Security-Firearms
Communications/Monitoring List
Tools List
Sundries List
Survival Bookshelf List
Barter and Charity List
JWR’s Specific Recommendations For Developing Your Lists:
Water List
House downspout conversion sheet metal work and barrels. (BTW, this is another
good reason to upgrade your retreat to a fireproof metal roof.)
Drawing water from open sources. Buy extra containers. Don’t buy big
barrels, since five gallon food grade buckets are the largest size that most
people can handle without back strain.
For transporting water if and when gas is too precious to waste, buy a couple
of heavy duty two wheel garden carts--convert the wheels to foam filled "no
flats" tires. (BTW, you will find lots of other uses for those carts around
your retreat, such as hauling hay, firewood, manure, fertilizer, et cetera.)
Treating water. Buy plain Clorox hypochlorite bleach. A little goes a long
way. Buy some extra half-gallon bottles for barter and charity. If you can
afford it, buy a “Big Berky” British Berkefeld ceramic water filter.
(Available from Ready
Made Resources and several other Internet vendors. Even if you have pure
spring water at your retreat, you never know where you may end up, and a good
filter could be a lifesaver.)
Food Storage List
See my post tomorrow which will be devoted to food storage. Also see the recent
letter from David in Israel on this subject.
Food Preparation List
Having more people under your roof will necessitate having an oversize skillet
and a huge stew pot. BTW, you will want to buy several huge kettles, because
odds are you will have to heat water on your wood stove for bathing, dish washing,
and clothes washing. You will also need even more kettles, barrels, and 5 or
6 gallon PVC buckets--for water hauling, rendering, soap making, and dying.
They will also make great barter or charity items. (To quote my mentor Dr.
Gary North: “Nails: buy a barrel of them. Barrels: Buy a barrel of them!”)
Don’t overlook skinning knives, gut-buckets, gambrels, and meat saws.
Personal List
(Make a separate personal list for each family member and individual expected
to arrive at your retreat.)
Spare glasses.
Prescription and nonprescription medications.
Birth control.
Keep dentistry up to date.
Any elective surgery that you've been postponing
Work off that gut.
Stay in shape.
Back strength and health—particularly important, given the heavy manual
tasks required for self-sufficiency.
Educate yourself on survival topics, and practice them. For example, even if
you don’t presently live at your retreat, you should plant a vegetable
garden every year. It is better to learn through experience and make mistakes
now, when the loss of crop is an annoyance rather than a crucial event.
“Comfort” items to help get through high stress times. (Books, games,
CDs, chocolates, etc.)
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
When tailoring this list, consider your neighborhood going for many months
without power, extensive use of open flames, and sentries standing picket
shifts exposed in the elements. Then consider axes, chainsaws and tractors
being wielded by newbies, and a greater likelihood of gunshot wounds. With
all of this, add the possibility of no access to doctors or high tech medical
diagnostic equipment. Put a strong emphasis on burn treatment first aid supplies.
Don’t overlook do-it-yourself dentistry! (Oil of cloves, temporary
filling kit, extraction tools, et cetera.) Buy a full minor surgery outfit
(inexpensive Pakistani stainless steel instruments), even if you don’t
know how to use them all yet. You may have to learn, or you will have the
opportunity to put them in the hands of someone experienced who needs them.)
This is going to be a big list!
Chem/Nuke Defense List
Dosimeter and rate meter, and charger, radiac meter (hand held Geiger counter),
rolls of sheet plastic (for isolating airflow to air filter inlets and for
covering window frames in the event that windows are broken due to blast effects),
duct tape, HEPA filters (ands spares) for your shelter. Potassium iodate (KI)
tablets to prevent thyroid damage.(See my recent post on that subject.) Outdoor
shower rig for just outside your shelter entrance.
Biological Warfare Defense List
Disinfectants
Hand Sanitizer
Sneeze masks
Colloidal silver generator and spare supplies (distilled water and .999 fine
silver rod.)
Natural antibiotics (Echinacea, Tea Tree oil, …)
Gardening List
One important item for your gardening list is the construction of a very tall
deer-proof and rabbit-proof fence. Under current circumstances, a raid by deer
on your garden is probably just an inconvenience. After the balloon goes up,
it could mean the difference between eating well, and starvation.
Top Soil/Amendments/Fertilizers.
Tools+ spares for barter/charity
Long-term storage non hybrid (open pollinated) seed. (Non-hybrid “heirloom” seed
assortments tailors to different climate zones are available from The
Ark Institute
Herbs: Get started with medicinal herbs such as aloe vera (for burns), echinacea
(purple cone flower), valerian, et cetera.
Hygiene/Sanitation List
Sacks of powdered lime for the outhouse. Buy plenty!
TP in quantity (Stores well if kept dry and away from vermin and it is lightweight,
but it is very bulky. This is a good item to store in the attic. See my novel
about stocking up on used phone books for use as TP.
Soap in quantity (hand soap, dish soap, laundry soap, cleansers, etc.)
Bottled lye for soap making.
Ladies’ supplies.
Toothpaste (or powder).
Floss.
Fluoride rinse. (Unless you have health objections to the use of fluoride.)
Sunscreen.
Livestock List:
Hoof rasp, hoof nippers, hoof pick, horse brushes, hand sheep shears, styptic,
carding combs, goat milking stand, teat dip, udder wash, Bag Balm, elastrator
and bands, SWOT fly repellent, nail clippers (various sizes), Copper-tox, leads,
leashes, collars, halters, hay hooks, hay fork, manure shovel, feed buckets,
bulk grain and C-O-B sweet feed (store in galvanized trash cans with tight
fitting lids to keep the mice out), various tack and saddles, tack repair tools,
et cetera. If your region has selenium deficient soil (ask your local Agricultural
extension office) then be sure to get selenium-fortified salt blocks rather
than plain white salt blocks--at least for those that you are going to set
aside strictly for your livestock.
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
“Buckshot” Bruce Hemming has produced an excellent series of videos
on trapping and making improvised traps. (He also sells traps and scents at very
reasonable prices.)
Night vision gear, spares, maintenance, and battery charging
Salt. Post-TEOTWAWKI, don’t “go hunting.” That would be a
waste of effort. Have the game come to you. Buy 20 or more salt blocks. They
will also make very valuable barter items.
Sell your fly fishing gear (all but perhaps a few flies) and buy practical
spin casting equipment.
Extra tackle may be useful for barter, but probably only in a very long term
Crunch.
Buy some frog gigs if you have bullfrogs in your area. Buy some crawfish traps
if you have crawfish in your area.
Learn how to rig trot lines and make fish traps for non-labor intensive fishing WTSHTF.
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
One proviso: In the event of a “grid
down” situation, if you are the only family in the area with power,
it could turn your house into a “come loot me” beacon at night.
At the same time, your house lighting will ruin the night vision of your LP/OP pickets.
Make plans and buy materials in advance for making blackout screens or fully
opaque curtains for your windows.
When possible, buy nickel metal hydride batteries. (Unlike the older nickel
cadmium technology, these have no adverse charge level “memory” effect.)
If your home has propane appliances, get a “tri-fuel” generator--with
a carburetor that is selectable between gasoline, propane, and natural gas.
If you heat your home with home heating oil, then get a diesel-burning generator.
(And plan on getting at least one diesel burning pickup and/or tractor). In
a pinch, you can run your diesel generator and diesel vehicles on home heating
oil.
Kerosene lamps; plenty of extra wicks, mantles, and chimneys. (These will also
make great barter items.)
Greater detail on do-it-yourself power will be included in my forthcoming blog
posts.
Fuels List
Buy the biggest propane, home heating oil, gas, or diesel tanks that your local
ordinances permit and that you can afford. Always keep them at least two-thirds
full. For privacy concerns, ballistic impact concerns, and fire concerns,
underground tanks are best if you local water table allows it. In any case,
do not buy an aboveground fuel tank that would visible from any public road
or navigable waterway. Buy plenty of extra fuel for barter. Don’t overlook
buying plenty of kerosene. (For barter, you will want some in one or two
gallon cans.) Stock up on firewood or coal. (See my previous blog posts.)
Get the best quality chainsaw you can afford. I prefer Stihls and Husqavarnas.
If you can afford it, buy two of the same model. Buy extra chains, critical
spare parts, and plenty of two-cycle oil. (Two-cycle oil will be great for
barter!) Get a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps. They are expensive but
they might save yourself a trip to the emergency room. Always wear gloves,
goggles, and ear-muffs. Wear a logger’s helmet when felling. Have someone
who is well experienced teach you how to re-sharpen chains. BTW, don’t
cut up your wood into rounds near any rocks or you will destroy a chain in
a hurry.
Firefighting List
Now that you have all of those flammables on hand (see the previous list) and
the prospect of looters shooting tracer ammo or throwing Molotov cocktails
at your house, think in terms of fire fighting from start to finish without
the aid of a fire department. Even without looters to consider, you should
be ready for uncontrolled brush or residential fires, as well as the greater
fire risk associated with greenhorns who have just arrived at your retreat
working with wood stoves and kerosene lamps!
Upgrade your retreat with a fireproof metal roof.
2” water line from your gravity-fed storage tank (to provide large water
volume for firefighting)
Fire fighting rig with an adjustable stream/mist head.
Smoke and CO detectors.
Tactical Living List
Adjust your wardrobe buying toward sturdy earth-tone clothing. (Frequent your
local thrift store and buy extras for retreat newcomers, charity, and barter.)
Dyes. Stock up on some boxes of green and brown cloth dye. Buy some extra for
barter. With dye, you can turn most light colored clothes into semi-tactical
clothing on short notice.
Two-inch wide burlap strip material in green and brown. This burlap is available
in large spools from Gun Parts Corp. Even if you don’t have time now,
stock up so that you can make camouflage ghillie
suits post-TEOTWAWKI.
Save those wine corks! (Burned cork makes quick and cheap face camouflage.)
Cold weather and foul weather gear—buy plenty, since you will be doing
more outdoor chores, hunting, and standing guard duty.
Don’t overlook ponchos and gaiters.
Mosquito repellent.
Synthetic double-bag (modular) sleeping bags for each person at the retreat,
plus a couple of spares. The Wiggy’s
brand Flexible Temperature Range Sleep System (FTRSS)
made by Wiggy's of Grand Junction, Colorado is highly recommended.
Night vision gear + IR floodlights for your retreat house
Subdued flashlights and penlights.
Noise, light, and litter discipline. (More on this in future posts--or perhaps
a reader would like to send a brief article on this subject)
Security-General: Locks, intrusion detection/alarm systems, exterior obstacles
(fences, gates, 5/8” diameter (or larger) locking road cables, rosebush
plantings, “decorative” ponds (moats), ballistic protection (personal
and residential), anti-vehicular ditches/berms, anti-vehicular concrete “planter
boxes”, razor wire, etc.)
Starlight electronic light amplification scopes are critical tools for retreat
security.
A Starlight scope (or goggles, or a monocular) literally amplifies low ambient
light by up to 100,000 times, turning nighttime darkness into daylight--albeit
a green and fuzzy view. Starlight light amplification technology was first
developed during the Vietnam War. Late issue Third Generation (also called
or “Third Gen” or “Gen 3”) starlight scopes can cost
up to $3,500 each. Rebuilt first gen (early 1970s technology scopes can often
be had for as little as $500. Russian-made monoculars (with lousy optics) can
be had for under $100. One Russian model that uses a piezoelectric generator
instead of batteries is the best of this low-cost breed. These are best used
as backups (in case your expensive American made scopes fail. They should not
be purchased for use as your primary night vision devices unless you are on
a very restrictive budget. (They are better than nothing.) Buy the best starlight
scopes, goggles, and monoculars you can afford. They may be life-savers! If
you can afford to buy only one, make it a weapon sight such as an AN/PVS-4,
with a Gen 2 (or better) tube. Make sure to specify that that the tube is new
or “low hours”, has a high “line pair” count, and minimal
scintillation. It is important to buy your Starlight gear from a reputable
dealer. The market is crowded with rip-off artists and scammers. One dealer
that I trust, is Al Glanze (spoken “Glan-zee”) who runs STANO
Components, Inc. in Silver City, Nevada. Note: In a subsequent
blog posts I will discuss the relationship and implications to IR illuminators
and tritium sights.
Range cards and sector sketches.
If you live in the boonies, piece together nine of the USGS 15-minute maps,
with your retreat property on the center map. Mount that map on an oversize
map board. Draw in the property lines and owner names of all of your surrounding
neighbor’s parcels (in pencil) in at least a five mile radius. (Get boundary
line and current owner name info from your County Recorder’s office.)
Study and memorize both the terrain and the neighbors’ names. Make a
phone number/e-mail list that corresponds to all of the names marked on the
map, plus city and county office contact numbers for quick reference and tack
it up right next to the map board. Cover the whole map sheet with a sheet of
heavy-duty acetate, so you can mark it up just like a military commander’s
map board. (This may sound a bit “over the top”, but remember,
you are planning for the worst case. It will also help you get to know your
neighbors: When you are introduced by name to one of them when in town, you
will be able to say, “Oh, don’t you live about two miles up the
road between the Jones place and the Smith’s ranch?” They will
be impressed, and you will seem like an instant “old timer.”
Security-Firearms List
Guns, ammunition, web gear, eye and ear protection, cleaning equipment,
carrying cases, scopes, magazines, spare parts, gunsmithing tools, targets
and target
frames, et cetera. Each rifle and pistol should have at least six top quality
(original military contract or original manufacturer) full capacity spare magazines.
Note: Considerable detail on firearms and optics selection, training, use,
and logistic support are covered in the SurvivalBlog archives and FAQs.
Communications/Monitoring List
When selecting radios buy only models that will run on 12 volt DC power or
rechargeable nickel metal hydride battery packs (that can be recharged from
your retreat’s 12 VDC power system without having to use an inverter.)
As a secondary purchasing goal, buy spare radios of each type if you can afford
them. Keep your spares in sealed metal boxes to protect them from EMP.
If you live in a far inland region, I recommend buying two or more 12 VDC marine
band radios. These frequencies will probably not be monitored in your region,
leaving you an essentially private band to use. (But never assume that any
two-way radio communications are secure!)
Note: More detail on survival communications gear selection, training, use,
security/cryptography measures, antennas, EMP protection, and logistical support
will be covered in forthcoming blog posts.
Tools List
Gardening tools.
Auto mechanics tools.
Welding.
Bolt cutters--the indispensable “universal key.”
Woodworking tools.
Gunsmithing tools.
Emphasis on hand powered tools.
Hand or treadle powered grinding wheel.
Don’t forget to buy plenty of extra work gloves (in earth tone colors).
Sundries List:
Systematically list the things that you use on a regular basis, or that you
might need if the local hardware store were to ever disappear: wire of various
gauges, duct tape, reinforced strapping tape, chain, nails, nuts and bolts,
weather stripping, abrasives, twine, white glue, cyanoacrylate glue, et cetera.
Book/Reference List
You should probably have nearly every book on my Bookshelf
page. For some, you will want to have two or three copies, such as Carla
Emery’s "Encyclopedia of Country Living". This is because these books
are so valuable and indispensable that you won’t want to risk lending
out your only copy.
Barter and Charity List
For your barter list, acquire primarily items that are durable, non-perishable,
and either in small packages or that are easily divisible. Concentrate on
the items that other people are likely to overlook or have in short supply.
Some of my favorites are ammunition. [The late] Jeff Cooper referred to it
as “ballistic
wampum.” WTSHTF, ammo will be worth nearly its weight in silver.
Store all of your ammo in military surplus ammo cans (with seals that are
still soft) and it will store for decades. Stick to common calibers, get
plenty of .22 LR (most
high velocity hollow points) plus at least ten boxes of the local favorite
deer hunting cartridge, even if you don’t own
a rifle chambered for this cartridge. (Ask your local sporting goods shop
about their top selling chamberings). Also buy at least ten boxes of the
local police department’s standard pistol cartridge, again even if
you don’t own a pistol chambered for this cartridge.
Ladies supplies.
Salt (Buy lots of cattle blocks and 1 pound canisters of iodized table salt.)
(Stores indefinitely if kept dry.)
Two cycle engine oil (for chain saw gas mixing. Gas may still be available
after a collapse, but two-cycle oil will probably be like liquid gold!)
Gas stabilizer.
Diesel antibacterial additive.
50-pound sacks of lime (for outhouses).
1 oz. bottles of military rifle bore cleaner and Break Free (or similar) lubricant.
Waterproof dufflebags in earth tone colors (whitewater rafting "dry bags").
Thermal socks.
Semi-waterproof matches (from military rations.)
Military web gear (lots of folks will suddenly need pistol belts, holsters,
magazine pouches, et cetera.)
Pre-1965 silver dimes.
1-gallon cans of kerosene.
Rolls of olive drab parachute cord.
Rolls of olive-drab duct tape.
Spools of monofilament fishing line.
Rolls of 10 mil "Visqueen", sheet plastic (for replacing windows,
isolating airspaces for nuke scenarios, etc.)
I also respect the opinion of one gentleman with whom I've corresponded, who
recommended the following:
Strike anywhere matches. (Dip the heads in paraffin to make them waterproof.)
Playing cards.
Cooking spices. (Do a web search for reasonably priced bulk spices.)
Rope & string.
Sewing supplies.
Candle wax and wicking.
Lastly, any supplies necessary for operating a home-based business. Some that
you might consider are: leather crafting, small appliance repair, gun repair,
locksmithing, et cetera. Every family should have at least one home-based business
(preferably two!) that they can depend on in the event of an economic collapse.
Stock up on additional items to dispense to refugees as charity.
Note: See the Barter Faire chapter in my novel "Patriots" for
lengthy lists of potential barter items.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Note from JWR: »
Prepare or Die, by J. Britely
Throughout my life I have been
caught unprepared several times and while nothing seriously bad happened, it
easily could have. I have been
lost hiking. My car has broken
down in very bad
neighborhoods - twice. I have
been close enough to riots
that I feared they would spread to my neighborhood, been in earthquakes, been
too close to wildfires, been stuck in a blizzard,
and have been without power and water for several days after a hurricane. I managed to get myself out of
each situation, I thanked God, and tried to learn from my mistakes. I could have avoided these situations
or made them much less unsafe and worrisome if I had been more aware and
prepared. I have also tried to
learn from the mistakes of others
so as to not learn everything the hard way. One group I assisted was a two hour drive into the
mountains, out of gas, wearing tee shirts, and had empty water bottles (at
least they kept them) (I have made each of those mistakes but not all at the
same time).
I aspire to be more prepared the
next time. My preparedness
includes many different aspects.
In my opinion, the most important thing I have done is to learn as much
as possible about what to expect and how to deal with those situations. The other important thing that gives me
some piece of mind is that I carry
and stock away water, food, ammo, books, and other tools and equipment that
should help me survive a bad situation.
Be prepared!
The other inspiration for my
preparations is my family. Seeing
my family suffer from lack of water or food would be very hard for me,
especially if some easy and cheap preparations could have made a big
difference. Recently, a few
friends and family have asked me about my preparations and how they might
prepare. I didn't have a good
short answer because I have spent years learning and stocking away. I thought of myself as more of a
student than a teacher in this area, but now I think I do know enough to give
some basic advice and refer them to good sources for more. Hopefully, they (and you) can learn
from my mistakes without having to waste time, energy and money on things that
don't work. Of course, I haven't
been through every situation or disaster but I have made it through a few tough
spots without losing my head. My
advice is based upon what I know to work and also what sounds like it would
work with the minimum fuss. I
always prefer the cheap, easy, home-made solution, but
sometimes it is worth the cost to get a quality item that is just too hard to
improvise or where the manufactured solution is much better (such as a
knife). Keep it simple stupid
(KISS) when you can. With
persistence you can get a lot done $20 at a time.
The purpose of this document is
to give an overview of preparedness and the first steps to take. I focus more on the why than the what
so that you can tailor your preparedness to your own situation and budget. I will also cite the best sources I
have found for more information.
There is a lot of information out there in books, classes, web sites,
and forums. Most of it is good but it is also really repetitious and
overwhelming. This document is
only about 15 pages printed out (you are printing important information (not
necessarily this) aren't you - since in an emergency you may not have power and
need to take the information with you).
I try to keep my important preparedness documents in an expandable file
folder with a tie inside a plastic crate.
What are you preparing for?
No one really knows what will be
the next survival situation they will face or how it will play out (will it get
worse before it gets better?). It
could be getting lost hiking, the car getting two flats in the middle of the
desert, a hurricane, a home invasion, an earthquake, or a terrorist
attack. You must assess your own
situation and determine what you need to prepare for. Of course some preparations will be useful in many
situations including everyday life, and these are the best type.
In order to get an idea of what
to prepare for, look at the types of situations that you or people similar to
you have been through. Also,
assess where you live or spend a lot of time such as work and vacation. We need to learn from the past but
without fighting the last war.
I like hiking and being
outdoors, so for me learning how
not to get lost and how to stay alive in the outdoors are high
priorities. These skills may also
come in handy if I need to walk to safety during a terrorist attack because all
of the roads and public transportation are closed. Living in your house without power or water isn't too
different from camping
except for the nice roof over your head and all of your stuff. I have also taken a first
aid class. It is pretty
limited in coverage but still useful in a variety of situations.
To assess the likely dangers to
where I live and work I used several sources including FEMA (free guide), DHS, Disaster Center, Emergency
Essentials, Two
Tigers and CBS. Also, find your local emergency
response office. But don't
rely on the government too much for planning or for help. As we relearned with the Katrina
response, their information and advice is far from perfect. And FEMA has always said it will take
72 hours to respond. So the way
I
look at it, during Katrina, FEMA (and
local governments) failed to live up to
its own low expectations. But even
if FEMA had been able to provide more food and water, you would still be much
better off taking care of yourself.
Do you really want to be told what possessions you can hold, when to
eat, when to sleep, and live in close quarters with thousands of
strangers? Sounds like prison to
me.
It's
A Disaster is a good book that will get you started on a plan for most
disasters. Some of their plans are
a little passive for me (don't take any risks and follow all FEMA directions)
and their kits lack some important things like knives. Still, it is a very good book and a
great start. Family and friends
should be included in your planning and preparations as much as they want to
be, but be careful about telling people who you do not trust or know well. You do not want to become a target in a
crisis.
I
think one of the best sources for thinking about what you are preparing for
and what does and doesn't work is news and
first hand accounts. These are some of the best ones I have
found. A few of them seem kind of
glib and bravado but the advice seems sound.
True Stories of Survival
Hurricane Katrina: http://www.frfrogspad.com/disastr.htm
Argentina thread 1: http://www.clairewolfe.com/wolfesblog/arg.html
Argentina thread 2 (some
swearing): http://www.survivalmonkey.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2715
Airplane crash: http://www.equipped.com/waldock698.htm
Ground Zero: http://www.equipped.org/groundzero.htm
Karen Hood's Survival Journal (a week in the wilderness) http://www.survival.com/karen1.htm
Sailing to Hawaii http://www.equipped.com/0698rescue.htm
Tsunami http://pubs.usgs.gov/circ/c1187/
Alaska http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/8017/index2.html
A list of stories
Priorities
The survival Rule of Threes:
- It takes about three seconds to die without thinking
- It takes about three minutes to die without air
- It
takes about three hours to die without shelter
- It
takes about three days to die without water
- It
takes about three weeks to die without food
- It
takes about three months to die without hope
- Try to
have at least three ways of preventing each
of the above (a backup to your backup).
So the priorities are thinking,
air, shelter, water, food, and hope.
These are rules of thumb and approximations. Also, you will likely start feeling really bad before you
die so you need to be proactive in addressing these needs.
Thinking
Basically, don't panic
and do
something stupid. This is easier
said than done, but you can build your thinking skill and confidence by playing
“what if” games. After reading about the risks to your area and the survival
stories above, think about what kinds of things could go wrong and how you
would deal with them. The more
detail the better. What would you
do if a cat 5 hurricane was projected to hit your house? Where would you go? What would you take? Would it all fit in your car? Do you have enough gas to get there if
the gas stations are closed? What
if you don't have time to leave? What room in your house is safest (can you
reinforce it easily)?
If you are facing a serious
situation but no immediate threat, take the time to consider your options
before rushing into a course of action.
Take an inventory of what you have on hand and what is around you. Think of how each item could help solve
one or more of your priorities.
Thinking about these things may
be scary but it will be less scary when it actually happens if you have thought
it through. Focus on what you can
do to improve things and not on what you cannot change. Thinking can also be
more long term as in learning and planning. I suggest you read some of the sources below and then come
up with a plan for several types of situations that you are likely to
face. But don't delay, you can take
some first steps outlined below, such as storing water, right now. You can then read more, take classes
and collect useful items.
Preparing is a process not a one time event.
Air
Having breathable air is not
something you usually have to worry about, but it is an immediate priority if
you do. First aide can help with
choking and bleeding (which causes the body to not get needed oxygen). Hundreds
of people die from carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide poisoning
every year because of gas leaks and cooking
or heating indoors. Being at
altitude can also make it harder to breath. Finally, a terrorist attack could put dust, chemical,
biological, or nuclear contamination in the air or force you into a shelter
that needs ventilation. Be aware
of these dangers and have appropriate detectors if possible (smoke, carbon
monoxide, etc.). A wet cloth or
hand wipe (carry on airplane) to breathe through can help for dust or smoke.
Shelter
Shelter is mainly about staying
dry and the right temperature, but you also want to avoid sunburn, bugs,
animals and other dangers. Your
house is your usual primary shelter but it could become damaged or you may have
to evacuate. You should have
emergency repair items on hand such as tarps, lumber, shovels, nails, plastic
sheeting, crowbars, and a saw.
Your clothes are your first and
most important layer of shelter outdoors.
Clothes protect you from heat, cold and abrasions. In general silk, wool, and synthetic
materials are better than cotton especially to keep you warm in cold wet
weather. I find cotton more comfortable especially in hot weather, so I
compromise and wear a cotton shirt and shorts, but carry a better shirt, pants
and socks
in my bag, as well as additional layers and a change of underwear. This makes my pack a little heavier,
but I have been cold and wet in the wilds and that is miserable. For me, a hat and sunglasses are
indispensable. I try to always
carry at least a light water resistant jacket or poncho (with a garbage bag as
a backup). For me, boots are the
only sensible walking shoes. Find
some that are rugged and comfortable.
Have extra laces and a backup pair.
You can carry a tent, a tarp or garbage
bag for resting and sleeping.
A tarp can make a simple shelter or
an elaborate one. Rope, twine and tape are also
useful. You can carry some type of
staff
or tent
poles or make them with an ax or saw.
Mosquito netting is necessary in some places.
You should have many ways to
start a fire since most are cheap and compact. At least have a lighter, matches,
and flint. You can also build a firebed to sleep in if you have
inadequate shelter from the cold.
Water
This is a crucial area that
can be helped a lot with very cheap and easy actions before The Schumer
Hits The
Fan (TSHTF). This is probably the
thing
you can do with the highest payoff for amount of effort. The only problem with water is that it
is heavy and can take up a lot of room.
If you have storage room and are staying home this isn't a problem but
if you are on the move it can become a driving factor in your progress. Long term solutions are also difficult
if your primary water source (city water or well) goes out and you are not near
a river or lake.
Used plastic soda bottles and
orange juice jugs with screw tops make very convenient water storage containers. Just rinse them a few times with hot
water. Old liquor bottles and wine box bladders work well too. I also have several canteens and rugged
5
gallon containers with taps.
The five gallon containers weigh about 40 pounds each and are about as
big as can be easily moved (larger drums can go in your basement or garage or
under a rain spout). A few collapsible
containers might also be useful because they can be stored and carried
empty. Tap water can last for
years without going bad if kept in a cool dark place. But you should check water that has been stored for clarity
and odors. If in doubt, treat it
with one of the methods below. You
can also freeze the plastic soda or orange juice containers (these do crack sometimes
when freezing) and use them in a cooler to keep food cold if the power goes out
before drinking it. If you know
a
disaster is coming fill up any container you can including the coffee maker,
crystal vase, bucket, bathtub, sink, and kiddy pool (some of these could be
spilled or contaminated but hopefully some will make it).
Most sources recommend about a
gallon per person per day. People
consume about 2 quarts in cool low activity environments but much more if hot
or active. You should have at
least 2 weeks worth per person in your primary residence (but why not have
months worth if you have the room).
If you are traveling by car, three days worth per person is minimum
(more for bathing), and if you are walking take as much as you reasonably can
carry but at least one days worth (several small bottles are better for
diversification if one leaks and also to let you know to start looking for more
water before you are on your last bottle). I also store extra water for washing and bathing. Here the container doesn't matter quite
as much. I use old liquid
detergent jugs. You should also
have at least two methods of sterilizing water.
The first step in sterilizing
water is to get the water as clear as possible. If it is cloudy, strain it with coffee filters, a clean
cloth, or sand. Or you can let it
settle and pour off the more clear water.
The primary and most reliable
method of sterilizing water is boiling.
You actually do not need to boil the water just heat it past 145 degrees for long enough. But
if you don't do it right you can get sick. So to be safe, boil it for 5 minutes if you can. If you are
walking, a metal cup (enamel or stainless) or a converted tin can is easier to
boil than a full pot. You can
carry a backpacking
stove or a Kelly Kettle. You can
use solar power to sterilize
water (in a soda
bottle) if no cooking is possible.
Other stoves are suggested below under food.
To sterilize water
with bleach use 2 drops of plain unscented
bleach per quart of water (or 8 drops per gallon or 1⁄4 tsp per 2 gallons). If you don't have a dropper you can wet
a paper towel and then drip it (wear gloves). Let the water sit for 20 minutes and then smell it. If it smells like chorine then its good
to go. If it doesn't, repeat with
the same amount of bleach. If that
doesn't work try to find other water.
(Really bad water or salt water requires a still.) Bleach is cheap but does not last forever - rotate. Dry Calcium Hypochlorite {sold as "pool
shock" bleach) stores
much
better
than liquid bleach but requires an
additional step of mixing a solution. (It provides a very inexpensive long
term
solution
to
water treatment).
There are also Potable
Aqua iodine tablets that are more
compact for sterilizing water. You
can also use Tincture of
Iodine. Iodine and chlorine
are poisons so be very careful (kill the
bacteria not yourself. [Avoid ingesting chlorine or iodine crystals!])
Any of the chemical treatments
can make the water taste funny.
You can use drink mixes to make it taste better. I'm not sure if sports drinks are
really better, but Gatorade seems more thirst quenching to me than water. The powder form is more convenient and
cheaper. You can also make your own sports drink
(1/4 tsp nu salt (potassium chloride),
1⁄4
tsp
salt,
3-6 tbsp sugar (to taste), juice of 1 lemon (or orange), and optional flavoring
(Kool-Aid) per gallon of water) or switchel.
Of course you can spend money for water if you
want to. You can buy prepackaged water or expensive
filters. There are backpacking
filters but I have found these to be temperamental. A water
bottle with a filter would be a good backup or a straw.
You can also go the more expensive route with a good gravity fed filter like
this: http://www.doultonfilters.com/gravity.html. This is a great looking solar still but doesn't appear
to be for sale right now.
If you are a homebrewer (or like beer), you can add some
dry malt extract, hops, and dry yeast to your
stash. Beer is boiled as part of
the brewing process. Then the
alcohol and hops act as a natural preservative. For the long term you can get some sproutable barley, grow some hops, and culture yeast. If you or someone with you doesn't
handle alcohol well, skip this.
Food
Providing food can be as
easy or
complicated as you want. The
easiest thing to do is simply buy
more of any food you normally buy that stores well. By store well, I mean does not
spoil. Foods like fresh milk, meat
and bread do not store well. Other
foods like rice, dried beans and pasta all store well and are cheap. They eventually lose some of their
nutrition but this is gradual and will not make you sick from eating “expired”
food if you forget to rotate. I
do
not list exact rotation schedules because every source is different. Some sources say grains only last one
year but most sources say 10 plus years and other credible sources say hundreds
or thousands
of years. It all depends upon how
it is packed and where it is stored which is discussed below (vacuum packed,
cool and dry are best) Canned meats, fruits and vegetables store okay and are
more expensive.
How much food you want to have
on hand depends on what type of situation you expect and how much you want to
spend. Buying a month' worth of rice, beans,
salt, and pasta will not cost much (and
is a good start). You will be a
lot happier if you add:
- canned or dried
meat (Costco and BJs have multipaks of Spam, ham, tuna and chicken for
under $10)
- canned or dried fruits and nuts
- canned or dried vegetables
- dried potatoes
- canned or dried sauces (for
pasta, chili, etc.)
- soup mixes (bean soups are
cheap) and bullion
- dried onions
- parmesan cheese
- cooking oil
- ramen noodles
- peanut butter
- mayo
- vinegar
- sugar and honey
- powdered milk
- bread crumbs, stuffing, oatmeal,
cereal
- flour, pancake mix, biscuit mix
- baking soda
- cocoa, instant coffee, tea,
drink mixes, juice mixes (cranberry)
- lemon juice
- dry yeast
- spices
Some of these can be eaten
without cooking or water if you have to.
Costco is great for the rice, canned goods, bullion, yeast (2 pound
box), cooking oil and spices. Don't forget a can opener and other
utensils. Of course you can do the
drying (wood
or solar) and canning yourself
for better quality and lower cost.
The oil, flour, baking soda and yeast (refrigerate the yeast if
possible) do not store well and have to be rotated more frequently than the
rice, beans and pasta. You will
be
healthier if you add some multivitamins. There are also luxury items like
Powerbars, powdered eggs, powdered cheese, powdered butter, food tabs, and meals
ready to eat (MREs).
To decide how much you need, you
can simply scale up recipes
and meals (print some simple recipes that use your stored food). How much rice and beans would you eat
at a meal or in a day if that was all you ate? A lot probably (make a meal as a trial). Now multiply that by the number of
people and the number of days and you have a ball park of how much to
store. The problem is that you
could end up feeding more people than your immediate family. Who else would you not turn away?
(Anyone you wouldn't want to live with normally is not someone you want to be
stuck with in a crisis. That said
there is some family I wouldn't turn away even if they deserve it). Start with the cheap stuff (rice,
beans, pasta, salt) and then slowly keeping adding and rotating the other food
until you have at least one months worth.
Do an inventory at least twice a year.
Store everything in
airtight/waterproof containers inside a tough container in a cool, dry, dark
place. Some things come packed
pretty well and can just go in a plastic
bucket or crate (cans can
be dipped in wax). Other items
should be vacuum
packed in small bags or large mylar bags with oxygen absorbers and
then put in the plastic bucket with a lid or crate (with a solid latching
lid). If you don't have shelves,
you can make shelves out of the buckets or crates and 1”x12” lumber. Put 2”x4”'s under the bottom shelf to
keep it off the floor.
For years
worth of food instead of months worth of food we need to move to grain and grain grinders. The Church of Latter Day
Saints are the experts
here. They also have storehouses that will sell
to the public if you are polite.
Of course you can buy online
but the shipping will be as much or more than the food. I went cheap and was able to get about
six months worth of food for one person for $100. I stuck to grains (400 lbs/year), beans (40 lbs/year), soup
mix (20 lbs/year), and milk (16 lbs/year) (I already had sugar (60
pounds/year), salt (10 lbs/year), oil (5 gallons/year), baking soda and yeast). I borrowed some of their equipment to
pack some of the food, the rest I packed at home in the mylar bags and buckets
described above. The milk is a
sticky powder and very messy (think of spilling flour and multiply by 100),
repack it outside if possible. I
also bought a hand operated
grain grinder to make flour from the wheat. Then I can make bread
(scale this recipe up to one loaf per day for a year as a cross check for a
year's supply). This would be a
pretty miserable diet but I think it would keep me alive and healthy if I had
enough vitamins. Because of the
sack size I have more of some things than others so towards the end I may be
eating paste. I hope to upgrade later. For infants you need more milk, oil,
sugar, and vitamins from which you can make an emergency formula (breast
feeding is better, then you give the extra
food to the mother).
For even longer food solutions
you need to farm. Supplementing
your food with a garden
or sprouting would also make
things last longer and provide some healthy variety. Its best to have some non-hybrid seeds on
hand or save
seeds from your garden.
Serious (expensive) seed packages are here. Have some fertilizer and pesticides on
hand but in the long run organic
is the way to go.
For cooking you can use a wood
burning stove, barbeque, or camp
stove in the short run (have some extra fuel on hand). The Petromax
lantern is pricey but well made and also has a stove attachment. If you don't have one of these or run
out of fuel you can build one: a coffee can
stove, a bucket stove
(avoid galvanized metal),
a alcohol stove, a collapsible stove, a tin can stove (simple
version), solar
oven (portable version),
or a clay
stove (print directions for making at least one of these). This is also a good commercial stove for those with cash
to burn. These are much more
efficient than an open fire. You
need a good pot or dutch oven for
boiling water and cooking. For
more portable food you can go with MREs, make your own
or stock what ever you would normally backpack with.
Hope
Hope is different for
everyone. It can be safety,
comfort, companionship, or normalcy.
For me it is mainly hope that there is light at the end of the
tunnel. I can work hard and
persevere if I know eventually things will get better. This means long term planning. So I want to have what I need in the
short term but also have some hope for the long term (so I have gardening tools
and seeds in addition to rice and spam).
You also want comfort items such as a book, Bible, game, coloring book,
pictures, beer, tea, or warm
shower. Some of these can be
dual purpose such as a book about hiking or gardening, survival playing cards,
or a novel about survival and perseverance.
Equipment
There are lots of things you can get, but you can also
just organize what you have already. The number of lists
seems endless and what you need depends upon the situation, your skills, and
your budget. Here is what is wrong with
the DHS kit I have already
mentioned several items above and list some others here but being comprehensive
would take a lot of space (read the links and references for more). Here are some basics.
All types of camping equipment
and tools come in handy but can be
expensive (shipping can be expensive too so you may want to make your own, try your
local yard sales, craigslist,
sporting goods or hardware store first).
You may want a small tent to carry and a larger tent to put in the car. Sleeping
pads are as much for insulation as for comfort (learned the hard way—you
don't want to be in the cold without some insulation between you and the
ground). A hammock
can be multipurpose. You can
try your local hardware store for lanterns or Lehman's
(they also have candle making supplies).
I suggest four knives for anyone
responsible enough to have one (in general you get what you pay for, but start
cheap and upgrade later): a folding
lock blade knife (buck and gerber are both good reasonably priced brands), a
Swiss army knife (with saw blade) or leatherman type knife
(pliers are handy), a
solid full tang knife, and a machete or short sword for brush. A kitchen knife can work until you get
any of these. A hatchet would also
be useful. Keep them sharp.
You need several maps (local,
state (small scale and large scale), neighboring states, topographic and road)
and a compass. A GPS
is optional but very handy. There
are usually welcome centers along interstates and in some cities that hand out
free maps. The USGS is a good source for reasonably
priced maps but sometimes it is a bit hard to find what you are looking
for. They have a catalog
for each state that really helps. They are also very friendly by phone but
still prefer if you order online.
You should have at least one non
portable (plug in) phone that can be used with the power out. Medicine, diapers and feminine products
will be hard to get. A generator
is great but can be expensive and you must have enough fuel (I don't have one
but want one). Solar
powered battery chargers are really slow but might be the only option.
Change your attitude, don't be
wasteful, and you can reuse many items. A tin can becomes a cup or pot with
a
little work. Use both sides of a
piece of paper and then use it as insulation or tinder. Waste not, want not. This also minimizes trash as there may
be no trash pickup.
Organize your equipment and supplies into different
levels and packages
Stuff you almost always carry
You should make a small kit that
fits in your pocket or
around your neck. This should include:
- ways to make a fire (matches,
mini bic, flint, etc.)
- a button
compass
- a small knife or razor blade,
broken hack saw blade, small file
- Swiss Tech Micro-Tech
6-in-1 Tool
- led light
- small candle (light or fire
making)
- a saw
- short piece of wire
- parachute cord (as much as will
fit)
- iodine tablets
- sturdy needle and thread
- individual salt servings
- food tabs, hard candy, bullion
or individual parmesan cheese/sugar (if space permits)
- freezer bags (water)
- nails (assortment)
- trash bag if it will fit (poncho
or tarp)
- dental floss (twine)
- Advil, Imodium, Benadryl,
vitamins, band aids, SPF chapstick any other essential medicine for you
or your family (all labeled)
- fish hooks, split shot, fish
line, safety pins.
- Survival
cards can go in kit or wallet (you can make something similar).
Personal Fanny Pack (or vest)
This should be small enough and
attached to you so that you do not put it down even when you take a break. Take it with you on any hike, drive or
emergency. A large fanny pack
works well or Ranger Rick
suggests putting everything in a vest and a bamboo walking stick. You can duplicate some of the items in
your mini kit but add substantially.
- Survival
cards or pocket
survival guide (or print some out).
- Knife of your choice (another
one can go in your pocket or on your belt)
- Sharpening
stone (or ceramic
insulator)
- Fire materials (matches and tender
(dryer lint, cotton balls in Vaseline, small candles, etc.) waterproofed)
- Magnifying glass wrapped in
bandana
- Pliers if your knife doesn't
have them
- Compass
- Maps
- Metal cup (boiling water)
- 2 small bottles of water
- Freezer bags (organization,
waterproofing and for more water)
- Small camp soap (or traveler's
shampoo)
- Iodine tablets
- At least 2 trash bags (clear for
still and heavy black for shelter), or tarp and poncho, or space blanket,
or light weight jacket with hood (a shell that compacts) or hat
- Rope, twine and wire
- Headlamp and extra batteries
- Candle
- Wipes
(these are multipurpose and are more compact than toilet paper, keep them
in zip lock bags (add a little water if they get dry))
- Gloves and socks
- Small first aide kit (including
prescriptions)
- Sunscreen and bug repellant.
- Whistle
- Snacks (powerbars, trail mix,
food tabs, tea, Gatorade mix, bullion, beef jerky, MRE)
- A GPS, FRS radio, am/fm radio,
cell phone, or CB can go in here if it fits
- Mini binoculars (to spot
landmarks, approaching fires, etc.)
- Notepad and pencil or pen
- A multipurpose
tool is a good backup for the other items.
72 hour kit (or less)
To some, the 72 hour kit is
everything they have in their house for disasters. I think this should be what you take with you if you have to
evacuate (even on foot). If you
can't carry 72 hours worth of food and water (that is a lot of water even if
you only plan 2 quarts per day), scale it down and put the rest in a car bug
out kit that can be used in your house or on the road. You can also make a similar kit for work
or other places you are likely to be in an emergency. It should be in a medium sized backpack that you can easily
carry (get
a rain cover for the backpack (or make one)—these really help in wet
conditions). Again, repeat items
in your smaller kits as you see fit.
Here are some suggestions:
- It's
a Disaster! Book (or print out a similar one)
- Personal mini-kit and fanny pack
or vest (attached to you separately from the backpack)
- Water (as much as you can fit
without making the bag too heavy, you can carry some containers empty and
fill them later)
- Changes of clothes (several
underwear and socks, long underwear)
- Jacket, hat, and sunglasses
- Sleeping
bag or blanket (and compact pad), hammock
- Soap and other toiletries (comb,
nail clippers and razor)
- Small stove and/or lantern (or
directions and supplies for making one of the stoves above)
- Small tent or tarp and netting,
plastic sheeting, tent poles and stakes (multipurpose)
- Stuff sacks, mesh bags, pillow
cases for organization
- Duct tape
- Hatchet or machete, folding saw
- Small shovel
- Rope, twine and bungee cords
- Backpacking pot/pan
- Cooking and eating utensils
(kitchen knife, can opener, spatula, spoon, forks, plates, cups)
- Foil
- Dish soap, sponge, dish pan or
bucket (collapsible) (also a wash basin or bucket), towel
- Food (Snacks and MREs as well as
rice)
- Vitamins
- Detailed road maps
- topo
maps
- Extra ammo
- Pocket warmers
- A GPS, FRS radio (everyone with
a list of channels to use), am/fm radio, solar calculator, or CB (whatever
you have that fits)
- Copies of important documents,
phone numbers, extra credit card, cash, ID
- Comfort items (book, cards,
bible, pictures, coloring books, games)
Car Kit
Keep this in the car if
possible. I used to keep a lot of
this in my car but since some of it was stolen, I keep most of it in the house
and load it up for longer trips. I
have something similar to the personal fanny pack that I keep hidden in the
jack compartment.
- 72 hour kit
- Flashlight and batteries
- Fire extinguisher
- Jumper cables
- Seat belt cutter and window breaker
(keep within reach)
- Water (bottles can go under the
seats)
- Matches
- Gloves
- Tarps
- Garbage bags
- Wipes
- Maps
- Driving compass
- Rope and/or tow strap and bungee
cords
- First aide kit (any medications)
- Siphon hose for water or gas (do
not drink gas)
- Window washer/scraper
- Crowbar and other tools (hammer,
saw, wrenches, duct tape, fuses, belts, and screws)
- Ax, bucket and shovel (this is
required in some forests)
- Engine oil
- Gas can (keep it empty and
unused unless you have a place for it on the outside of your car or truck)
Stuff you take if you have to Bug Out
This is stuff that is too heavy
to carry in your 72 hour kit but something you can throw in your car (in
addition to what is already there) quickly if you need to evacuate. You might be able to take it in a
garden cart if you can't drive but travel by roads is still safe. Here is an example to help you make
your own
kit (or here). Pack it in crates or duffle bags. Here are some suggestions (what fits in
your car will vary):
- More survival books or books on
camping/country/simple living
- 5 gallon water cans (full)
- Food (cans and other heavy bulky
items)
- Cooler (grab some ice and any
travel friendly fresh items that are still good like cheese, peanut
butter, apples, lemons, and bread)
- Large first aide kit
- Dutch oven
- Stove and fuel or barbeque,
Kelly Kettle
- Lantern (Petromax is good but
expensive)
- Unscented bleach
- Tent and large tarps, rugs
- Blanket and pillows (sleeping
pad, hammock, or cot)
- Paper plates, utensils and cups
- Paper towels and wipes
- Foil
- Solar shower
- Bucket
toilet (you can store garbage bags, toilet paper, wipes, and soap
inside the bucket)
- Many garbage bags
- Laundry soap
- Clothes pins
- Soap and shampoo
- Ant traps and insecticides
- Fishing gear
- Radio and batteries
- Several extra fuel cans (enough
to get to your destination without refueling)
- Propane
heater with fuel
- Generator
- Small safe for guns and
documents
- Bikes (on rack and with pump and
tire repair kit)
- Frisbee or other games
First Aid and Medical Kits
Take a first aide class and more
training if you can. For supplies,
the place to start is with a pre-made small portable first aide kit and a
larger home or car first aide kit.
These are usually $10 to $20 on sale (but can be $100's if you want). You can add items from your
medicine cabinet and replace things like the cheap scissors that usually come
with them. However, these usually are not good for much more than minor cuts
and scrapes (going to a hospital/doctor may not be an option or may take a
while—so do
your best until you can get to one).
For more serious injuries you probably have to make your own kit. The best book is Wilderness
Medicine, by William W. Forgey. His suggested kit in the back of the
book is great (I learned the hard way I needed some of the items that he
recommends and figure the other items are ones I may need in the future). Amazon
and Moore Medical have
most of the items if you can't find them locally. For the house or car first aide kit, I suggest a hard sided
box like a tool box. Dental care is
also important. A toothache is
really distracting. A little dental kit like this
could make you a lot more comfortable until you can see a dentist.
Other Kits
Make other kits as you see
fit. I have a kit that is mainly
in case of terrorist attack (I live and work too close to a likely
target). I have Jane's
Chem-Bio Handbook and what to do if a nuclear attack in imminent as well as Potassium Iodide (seven
days), plastic sheeting, duct tape, Tyvek clothes
coverings, and a face mask
(this is not as good as a gas mask but its what I have). You can spread this to your other kits
if you want.
Security
Protecting yourself from
criminals is as natural
as buying a fire extinguisher to put out fires (but more expensive). Get fences, dead bolts, and lock
your windows at night but if someone really wants to get in your home they
will. Police take an average of
11 minutes or more to respond to violent crimes 40 percent
of the time (sometimes hours), under normal conditions. A lot can happen
in 11 minutes and you are going to wait a lot longer in a crisis. When someone is kicking in your door,
it is too late to go buy a gun.
You are on your own.
Relying on the kindness of someone breaking into your home is not a
good bet.
If you are a gun person, pick
your own gun. This advice if for
those who don't own a gun or don't shoot.
I suggest a pistol, a rifle and a shotgun for every adult (check
you local gun laws). If I had to only have one gun it would
be a shotgun
because of their versatility. A 20
gauge shotgun is more than enough for most purposes including home
defense and has less recoil than a 12 gauge. The Remington
870 is a great choice but many people also like Mossberg. Take a class
on using the shotgun for home defense.
For home defense ammo, I use bird shot. This will not penetrate and
stop a criminal as fast as buck shot but is
also less likely to go
through a wall and hurt an innocent person. Make your own decision here based on who is in adjoining
rooms and how close the neighbors are.
You can always load bird shot as the first few shells followed by buck
shot (keep about 200 rounds on hand because it will be hard to buy in a
crisis). The only options I
recommend are hearing
protection, glasses,
a cleaning
kit, a sling
(guns with slings don't get set down in bad places as much) and maybe a light
or night sights. I think the
factory stocks are fine.
Next on my list would be a
.22. The Ruger
Single Six is a nice
revolver that is convertible to either 22 LR or 22 magnum (This might be a
better choice as the only gun for some people). Also get a holster for it. Savage and CZ make bolt
action rifles that are great bargains. A .22
is a little small for home
defense (it is less likely to stop a criminal in his tracks) but a lot
better than nothing. It is also
important to be comfortable with your gun and a .22 is fun to shoot so you are
more likely to practice
(.22 ammo is very cheap and you can get 1,000 rounds for about
$20). As soon as you are
comfortable with the .22 and your budget allows, you should probably upgrade to
a larger common caliber (.357
for a revolver, 9mm, .40 or .45 for an automatic pistol, 12 gauge for a
shotgun, and .223, .308, 7.62x39, .30-30, or .30-06 for rifles). Get a concealed weapon permit if your state
allows them even if you don't plan on using it (carrying a gun). Again, these take some time to get so
you have to get one before you need it even if you think that will be
never. Also, the required classes
are really great and focus mainly on when not to use a gun. Almost any gun range will offer such a
class (and many others that are worth it too). In general, buying a used
gun is fine (simple guns are very durable) but for the guns I recommend
here, the premium for a new gun (gun store or some sporting good stores) will
probably be less than $100 and probably worth it to avoid any mechanical issues
to start with.
Learn the gun safety rules and
locking up any guns not on your body is a good idea and a necessity if you have
kids (or adults who act like kids) in your home. For pistols you can get a cheap keyed
safe for about $20 (also good for documents). Then you have to hide the key where you can find it quickly
but no one else can. A combination
safe is better but a lot more expensive (practice opening it in the
dark). For long guns you can get a
locking
cabinet for about $100 (some cases have a good
lock and that is a good idea for taking with you in the car), put a lock on a
closet, or get a
real safe for about $1,000.
Trigger locks are generally a bad
idea because you can accidentally pull the trigger when getting them on or
off.
If you decide against a gun, at
least get pepper spray, a baseball bat, or a flashlight. A self-defense class would be good too
(martial arts classes are good but take a long time to become practical). A bullet
proof vest and helmet
would be good but neither is inexpensive.
Finally, there is safety in numbers. Staying with family and friends during a crisis is a good
idea if resources and space allow.
First Steps
- Buy some unscented bleach and start storing water.
- Start accumulating food and other supplies. Initially, just buy more of the food
that you already buy that stores well. Re-pack
as necessary. Get some food
grade buckets or plastic crates and find a cool dark place.
- Start reading more about the risks that you face personally and
ways to deal with them. What
is your plan to deal with each?
- Organize your stuff into personal mini kits, personal fanny
packs (or vests), one or more 72 hour kits for each person for each
location they spend time, a car kit, a bug out kit, and your house stash.
- Practice. This
doesn't have to be a military style exercise. Try camping and living without power and running water
(in your backyard to start with).
Load your car with what you think you would want to take if you had
to evacuate. How long did it
take? Did it all fit? Try driving back roads to get out
of town. Go hiking with your
72 hour kit.
- Periodically take an inventory and revise your plans.
Books and other sources (in order of relevance and
grouped)
Online Resources
SurvivalBlog
(the best daily variety of all types of information at a good price too)
Alpha Rubicon
(The "Mythbusters" of the survival world. Membership required for most information,
great information and more personalities than members)
Non-fiction
Fiction
Some of these are a bit
far
fetched and depressing (worst case) and mainly about TEOTWAWKI (sing “It's The
End of The World as We Know It, and I feel fine" ) (they are fiction)
but still give some good food for thought.
Author's web site: www.PrepareOrDie.com
« The Precious Metals Bull Charges Onward |Main| Note from JWR: »
Sources for Free Survival and Preparedness Information on the Internet, by K.L. in Alaska
Recent comments in SurvivalBlog provided excellent advice on using the public
library. You can gain lots of knowledge with no expense, then purchase only
those books you want to keep on hand for personal reference. Also, many colleges
and universities loan to local residents, so you can use them too, even if
you aren't a student.
If your local libraries participate, a great resource is Worldcat. It lets you search for books from home,
then go check them out, or get them through interlibrary loan.
What will happen to the Internet when the SHTF?
There's no guarantee it will survive. Even if the World Wide Web endures in
some form, most of the individual computers connected to it will not. Hopefully
by then you will have already downloaded all the free info that's going to
help you cope with the new world.
You may want to download a copy of information
on this web site or any other web site with useful content. It would be a shame
to face some disaster when all the resources of the internet are no longer
at your fingertips.
In preparation for a worst case scenario,
it's a good idea to begin now to collect the knowledge that will come in handy
later. You can download whole books, save them to jump drives, and keep an
entire library in a very small space. All kinds of free manuals, guides, tech
tips, and schematics are available on the internet; for everything from firearms
to furnaces to computers to appliances.
All of the downloads listed
here are in the public domain or allowable for copying. Stay away from sites
that may involve copyright infringement. If you use a file-sharing site such
as Limewire, Kazaa, or any site that uses bit torrents, you are not only downloading,
but also uploading. Your participation involves automatically uploading to
other users. If the file is illegal, you are distributing illegal material,
not just downloading it. Stay away from these and stick with the legitimate
sites listed below.
Keep in mind that some of this information you
download might be illegal to use at the present time. You can't practice dentistry
on your neighbor just because you have the book. Nevertheless, you have the
right to possess this very vital information. After TEOTWAWKI,
all bets are off. The information you collect today might save your life or
the life of somebody you love.
Many downloads are in Portable Document Format
(PDF) form, so to read them you must have a suitable program such as Adobe
Reader, which is the free version of Adobe Acrobat. There are alternatives
to Adobe that can read PDF files, if you prefer. Some of these files are very
large. If your internet connection is slow, it's better to right click and
download rather than try to read a huge file online.
Some documents you may want to print out. Others
you can just leave on disc. Just be sure to store your drives safely. Not included
in this list are the many web sites that are very good resources in themselves.
Rather, these are the files you can download for offline viewing at a later
time. Download them while you still can!
Project
Gutenberg was mentioned as a good place to go for eBooks.
The Smithsonian
Institution is another great resource. They have digitized many older
books, maps, and documents in their collection.
Wikisource has
a nice collection of free eBooks.
One way to search for books no longer in copyright is to use Google
Book Search. Check "full view." If it comes up in the search,
it can be downloaded as a PDF file.
A good alternative to Google is the Internet Archive which includes books,
images, audio, and more. The Internet Archive also hosts the Wayback Machine,
which archives copies of an incredible 85 billion pages from the internet of
years past.
Over 100,000 free eBooks can be accessed through Digital Book Index
2020ok is a directory of
free online books and free eBooks
The British Columbia Digital Library has an impressive Collection, including
dictionaries, encyclopedias, and most importantly, the Holy Bible. It also has a Guide to other digital libraries.
Scribd is an online document
library of free research articles, eBooks, and other content.
A great resource for home schoolers is the Internet's largest
directory of free audio & video learning resources maintained by LearnOutLoud.com.
Check out the postings of Home Schooling
On-line Resources on the The Mental Militia Forums, as well as the "Must
Have" Books/reference material topic.
More than 3,200 pages related to the U. S. Constitution can
be downloaded from The Founders' Constitution
Firearms For any
firearm you own or plan to own, you should have a drawing of its Exploded View,
which will help identify parts and how they fit together. One of the most comprehensive
collections of Exploded Views is the paper edition of the Numrich Arms Catalog, which
in itself is a gold mine of information and very inexpensive for a volume of
over 1200 pages.
But if you only need certain Exploded Views, there are many
places on the internet where you can download them for free:
Gunuts is a good place
to start with hundreds of drawings. Another source is The Okie Gunsmith Shop, which
is apparently no longer operating, but you can still download drawings and
parts lists from its web site.Big Bear Gun Works has
another good list. For pre-WWII firearms, check out Gunsworld. For examples of specific
firearms manufacturers, see Remington, Browning, and SKB Shotguns
The book, The Defensive Use Of Firearms by
Shane C. Henry is available as a download from rec.guns. An enormous amount
of additional gun information is available on the rec.guns web site.
There are several good sources for Military Publications: GlobalSecurity.org has
a huge collection of Military manuals.
Try Integrated Publishing for
access to millions of pages of engineering manuals and documents.
The U.S. Army Materiel Command maintains the LOGSA web site for access
to thousands of Army technical manuals.
The U.S. Air Force maintains the Air Force e-Publishing web site.
As mentioned recently, The
Small Wars Journal has a Reference
Library of downloadable military documents.
The Brooke Clarke
web site has a good guide to accessing military field manuals
Surviving War and Nuclear
Attack For a basic guide, download How
To Survive A Chemical Or Biological Attack.
Nuclear War Survival
Skills, along with some other very interesting books, can be found on
the Oregon
Institute of Science and Medicine web site. This book includes plans
for the Kearny Fallout Radiation Meter (KFM). If you have not bought a radiation
meter, you should at least download the book for future reference. You can
also get the Free
Plans from The Oak Ridge National Laboratory. Nuclear War Survival Skills is also available on the KI4U web site as an online
book, but not as a download.
The Equipped To Survive web site
has some free ebooks, as well as books for sale: Survival,
Evasion, and Recovery and U.S. Army Survival Manual FM 21-76.
The Volunteer Center of Marin County, California has prepared A Guide to Organizing
Neighborhoods for Preparedness, Response and Recovery which you
can copy from their web site.
Medical Resources The Disease
Net has a library of downloadable manuals on survival, weapons, emergency
medicine, and less serious subjects.
Virtual Naval Hospital is
a digital library of naval, military, and humanitarian medicine
The very important field manual, First Aid For Soldiers FM 21-11 can be downloaded here.
One of the best medical handbooks available is the U.S. Army Special Forces Medical Handbook ST31-91B.
It can be downloaded free (as well as additional essential guides) from Delta Gear, Inc.
A newer version of the Medical
Handbook, plus more great material can be downloaded from NH-TEMS
(New Hampshire Tactical Emergency medical support).
The
American Red Cross has some of their disaster guides online for download.
For most of their material, you have to go to the local office. Some of it
can be copied from the Earth
Changes Media Survival Tips page.
The Red Cross Book, First
Aid in Armed Conflicts and Other Situations of Violence
The UK Maritime and Coastguard Agency book, The
Ship Captain's Medical Guide
Hesperian makes
available free downloads of its books for medical treatment in primitive conditions.
Two highly respected guides it publishes are Where There Is No Doctor and Where
There Is No Dentist.
Here is a direct link to the must-have book Survival and
Austere Medicine: An introduction. Australian Survivalist Online
has several additional Files
for downloading.
The Department of Agriculture has
a treasure trove of information for free download. This agency maintains The
National Agricultural Library, a collection of free information on Agriculture,
Food and Nutrition, and other related subjects.
Another USDA web site is the Cooperative Extension
Service. Click on the map to navigate to various Extension offices around
the country. Don't limit your search to just your own state. Many of them
have invaluable information on animals, crops, construction, food preparation
and much more for free download.
The
USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) offers downloads about preventing plant and animal diseases,
among other topics.
The USDA Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS) offers Fact
Sheets about food handling and preparation, and emergency preparedness.
Other Important Reference
Resources The classic outdoor guides, The 10
Bushcraft Books by Richard Graves are available on the Chris Molloy web
site. Free manuals for electronic equipment can be downloaded from eServiceInfo.com. Another source is UsersManualGuide.com. For Ham Radio
and Test Equipment Manuals, the KO4BB web site has Free Downloads, as well as LINKS to many other web sites with free downloads. A few examples
of repair information for outdoor equipment are Penn Reel Schematics,
and Mercury outboard
parts.
Paid Services In
the unlikely event that you can't find free information on the Net to fix that
generator or whatever you need to repair, there are web sites that charge for
information. As a last resort, you can check Sam's PHOTOFACT service manuals,
or RepairManual.com. Hopefully,
that won't be necessary.
The foregoing just begins to scratch the surface. Some of
these free downloads are also available as books or CDs from eBay, Amazon or
from some of the survivalist web sites. That is fine. Sometimes it is easier
to just pay the money and buy the book. But nobody can afford it all, and downloading
gives you access to millions of pages - much more knowledge than you could
acquire through any other method.
« Letter Re: The Versatile Propane-Fired Turkey Deep Fryer |Main| Letter Re: Estimate on the Likelihood of an Economic Depression or Full-Scale Collapse? »
Letter Re: Les Stroud (aka "Survivorman") Off-Grid Living Videos
James,
I'm not sure if you've mentioned this series before, but on YouTube there is
a video series called "Off the Grid" hosted by Les Stroud of Survivorman
fame. He moves his family out of the city and into the country in search
of an off-the-grid home and lifestyle. It's a fairly realistic look and (I
think) good introduction to what it would take to make the jump to living
in the country and self-sufficiently.
The other videos in the series can be found linked from the first page, or
just search for "Off the Grid". Hope you enjoy this, and I think
many of the SurvivalBlog readers would too.
I hope you and your family are well, - Jason U.
The Memsahib Replies: Been there, done that. Got a few scars
to prove it.
« Letter Re: Advice on Compact Solar-Powered Refrigerators for Insulin |Main| Note from JWR: »
"Zeroing In" Your Bugout Bag, by SF in Hawaii
Last week my wife told me that another couple had gotten reservations at the
cabins at Haleakela
State Park for the Labor Day Weekend. We would hike across the crater
floor,
then down the Kaupo Gap. These are hard to come by and since we were invited,
I felt we had
to go. Great, a chance to try out my bug out bag. I gave my feet a liberal and
prophylactic spraying of anti-fungal medication (a ritual I would end up doing
every morning on that trip) and put on my Bug-Out Bag (BOB).
Before we left,
I
unscrewed the aluminum pole from a mop, checked to make sure my
backup knife would fit
on it
and now I had myself both
a strong and lightweight walking stick as well as a spear in case a wild boar
came too close. The BOB weighed in at 55 pounds. I'm 160 and with the
backpack
I was using it felt like a manageable weight.
On the way there, the steering and brakes on the car went out. I hit the emergency
brake and slowed down. The engine just turned off. Since it had power steering
and
brakes, when the car turned off, they went off too. Strange for a reasonably
new car. It started up again so I figured EMP was
ruled out. We drove up to about 10,000 feet, got our gear on and started hiking.
It was a steep decline into
the volcanic caldera/crater and within about 10 minutes I noticed a hot feeling
in the heels of my feet. You see, as a sufferer of athletes foot, I tend to keep
my shoes loose. Bad idea. Loose shoes make blisters. I stopped and got out the
moleskins but I didn't have a pair of scissors. Let me say for the record, a
knife is not a pair of scissors. These are separate tools. There I was with my
BAK (Big
A** knife) trying to cut moleskin pieces. Not only was it the wrong tool for
the
job, but one
slip and it would be a bloody mess.
To take the pressure off my heels, I walked
native style (toe to heel) and this helped.
We hiked for the rest of the day through what can only be described at the surface
of Mars and finally arrived at the first cabin. The manual pedometer gave me
some lousy data. It was set for a 2 foot step/4 foot stride length but I forgot
to take into consideration that stride changes with inclines and declines. When
I got there I tried out my Zipstove for
the first time. At first glance, it looked like something made in a high school
metal shop class,
and it's a lot heavier than other stoves, but then again, I didn't need to pack
any fuel. It has a battery operated fan built in and get fires hot real fast.
I hit my sparker into a cotton ball with some vaseline rubbed in and presto.
I dropped the little ball of fire into the stove, and added a few twigs and turned
on the fan. Wow. The stove worked great. In a minute or two dinner was on it's
way. I'll be investing in their titanium version and perhaps I can swap out their
metal fan for a plastic one to drop the weight. I was cooking in a titanium
Titan pot and I was concerned that
due to the rapid heat transfer of titanium I'd burn the food but it never happened.
Another nice thing about cooking with titanium is that as fast as it heats up,
it cools down too and less than a minute after taking it off the fire, the top
was cool enough grab and move around. We sat around when the lights went out,
lit some candles and played Hearts for a few hours. (Make note to get Hoyle's
Encyclopedia of Card games.) Before I went to bed I inspected my feet. Yup.
Two huge blisters, one on each foot. These were the biggest blisters I'd ever
had. Each one covered my entire heel. I also had burns on the backs of my hands.
I
was wearing nylon
pants and a long sleeve shirt
to keep out of the sun, and because we all know 'cotton kills.' I also had
a
cloth over my head which I kept in place by wearing a pair of sunglasses which
had a retaining strap on them to keep from getting lost during activity. The
strap around the back of my head kept the rag in place nicely and with the exception
of a spot on my nose, I escaped the searing rays of Hawaii at 10,000 feet. What
I didn't think to cover was the backs of my hands. The were bright red and angry
when I saw them. I cut squared of cloth off my head rag and placed on the backs
of each hand. I held them in place (mostly) with rubber bands around my wrists.
They kept me from getting burned any worse, but it was a constant annoyance repositioning
them for the rest of the trip. (Make note, put tactical gloves in BOB).
The next morning after having some oatmeal, I packed up. I put on another pair
of socks and this was helpful as with less wiggle room, my feet didn't slip around
so much and maybe I wouldn't make any new blisters. My wife suggested that in
her experience (She hiked the Thorong
La Pass.
I lance the blisters. (Make note to bring needle in first aid kit) I left the
blisters alone. Personal preference. The other fellow on the trip I noticed had
the soles of one of his shoes come off. He was wrapping cord around them to hold
them together when I suggested he use the awl tool on his swiss army knife to
stitch them back on his shoe. He liked this idea and it worked. (Make note, find
that Speedy
Stitcher and add it to my BOB.)
The second day was excruciatingly painful. I can't recall the last time I was
in that much pain for that long a period. I now had pain along the entire bottom
surface of my foot. There was no comfortable way to walk. I was very grateful
for the walking stick! Sure I could have make one from wood on the trail, but
it would have been much heavier and bulkier to be as strong as the cheap aluminum
tube.
After hours of promising myself I would never go hiking again, we arrived at
the second cabin. At this point the fellow's second shoe fell apart. Keep in
mind that both shoes were in good condition before we left. His wife was also
having shoe trouble but she overcame it with a safety pin. (Make note, safety
pins.) More cards and dinner and now the other people were complaining. No
one else had a good external frame pack and their hips and backs were sore. For
me, it was just my feet. Even though my pack outweighed anyone else's there by
a factor of 2, it was a good pack and now showing itself to be worth the high
cost.
The third day we had to hike down from over 6,000' to 1,000'. We'd already gone
from 10,000' to 6,000 the previous two days and left the Martian landscape. We
were now in fog enshrouded hills and rain forests. The next 5,000' would be a
30 degree incline though rain forests and meadows. I filled up my 4 steel water
bottles with filtered water from my Katadyn and told my wife that with the condition
of my feet, I wanted to leave a hour and a half before the rest of the group
as I'd be going slow. I also wanted to hike in the morning to stay out of the
heat . She finally agreed and we slushed though thigh high wet grass and we were
both
soaked in short order. It was about five minutes into the hike that I learned
that not only were my hiking shoes too big, but they weren't waterproof nor even
water
resistant. The cool dewy water was sloshing around in by boots for hours. It
wasn't just an annoyance either. When I took the map I got from the Ranger station
out of my pocket, it was soaked and the pages were sticking together. Oh, did
I mention that the trail I was taking was right along a crease on the map and
due to the water damage it was totally illegible? (Make note, put Zip lock bags
in BOB).
Although she didn't say anything, I know she was pissed. Cold, wet and pissed
but when she realized how hard the hike was getting, she looked at me. "I'll
just say it once and get it over with. I told you so." She thanked me.
We smiled and moved on. That extra time was great to have. I used an altimeter
to
guesstimate where we were on the map. I didn't bring my topos with me, but
it was a great psychological benefit to know how much longer you had to go.
My wife started complaining about her left knee under when we stopped at an
old growth Koa tree. We snacked on ostrich filets (kept at 150 degrees in the
oven
overnight), peanuts and some chocolate. She wanted a Koa walking stick. "But
that's a heavier wood and look, no straight branches here darling." Well,
she wanted one anyway so I hacked her a walking stick, put a point on the bottom
and cut away the bark where her hand would grip it. At about 4,000 feet I saw
my wife walking backwards for a few seconds. I tried it and it was great. Although
it was riskier, I couldn't walk forwards anymore. Aside from the fact that
my blisters were hurting, I now had somehow developed a pain in my left knee
too.
It only hurt when I walked forward, or sideways (yes I tried that too) so my
wife and I walked backwards down the rocky and treacherous declines for miles.
The trails were covered with golf ball and base ball sized spherical lava rocks
that acted like ball bearings. It was hard going and nerve racking. I made
us both drink like fishes and soon I was dripping with sweat and she was peeing
like a racehorse. Every time my mouth got dry I drank and so did she. I wasn't
thirsty but I drank anyhow. Then the water stopped feeling good to drink. Dang,
with all this drinking and sweating I was beginning to going hyponatremic.
(Make
note, put ORS packets
in BOB). On the milder inclines I tried walking while dragging my left leg
behind me to avoid having to bend it. It was slow going and again,
my wife thanked me for getting us out early. We came across some ambiguous
fork in the road and she lost it for a bit. I said that I thought both trails
would
probably work and let her pick the route. She picked and then got nervous. "What
if it's the wrong one?" She was starting to lose it again. "This
trail is the correct trail." I said forcefully and with more
confidence that I really had about her choice. She seemed okay with that and
we kept going.
We used the last of the water that everyone said I was crazy to bring just minutes
before reaching the rendezvous point. One of the women in the group I later found
out had a near nervous breakdown as she never knew how much farther she had to
go. That altimeter kept my wife and I sane.
I'm finally home and writing this out before I forget. The blisters will probably
heal in a week the knee, who knows. (Make note, put ace bandages and maybe
even knee and ankle supports in BOB). I'll be walking with a cane for a bit
but no
permanent damage, I don't think. I will now have a dedicated foot first aid
section for my BOB. Consider giving your BOB a test run. You may find things
you want
in it you don't have now and some things you can do without. I think of my
BOB like a gun now. If it's all shiny and new but not zeroed in, you may be
in for
some nasty surprises. - SF in Hawaii
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| The Refrigerator Box Method for Easy Survival Gardening, by Dixie »
Letter Re: Suburban Survival
Hi Jim and Family,
I truly enjoy reading your survival blog and learn from it daily and weekly.
However I believe you are skipping over a topic that would benefit your readers....most
of your readers.
I would think that most of your readers who check out and read your site on
a daily basis do not have a remote retreat in Idaho, Montana,
Nevada, Utah, or Wyoming. Most of your readers I'm sure live like me in American
Suburbs, trapped and looking for a way to get out but in the mean time prepping
for what we all know is coming.
My question to you and others, what are we to do? We can keep logging on to
your web site everyday and read about what to do with 50 acres and security
measures, and how to build barricades, but the average joe like me does not
live where you do. Lets face it, all those hits on your web site are not only
coming from folks high up in their retreats in Idaho.
So can you and other readers who know share some ideas for folks like me who
live in the burbs? Fellas like me exist that have over a year's worth of food
stored up, lots of ammo and good combat quality arms, radiation detection,
water filtration systems, nearby water sources, gold and silver reserves, cash
reserves, yearly seed purchases, rainwater collection systems, some solar assets,
and at least 6 able bodied males some with spouse who all have a deep love
for our Lord.
What are we to do? We are where we are and we have what we have and we are
going to try and make it out of what is coming so any advice would be helpful.
The simple fact is that most of us reading your site are probably in the situation
I'm in. We're all going to do our best but when it comes down to it, we're
going to have to do it from the 'burbs.- Jeff (in a suburb of St. Louis, Missouri)
JWR Replies: You point is well taken. I strongly believe
that everyone that actively prepares will have a better chance of survival, regardless
of their locale. Yes, your chances will be best out in the lightly
populated hinterboonies, but that is not to say that the suburbs will be untenable.
By actively preparing you will be way ahead of your suburban neighbors, and
far, far more likely to survival a disaster--either a natural disaster or a
man-made calamity.
It is noteworthy that most of the tactics, techniques, and
technologies that you see described in
SurvivalBlog
can also
apply to suburban
settings.
A good
example
of this
was
Fanderal's
recent article on raising rabbits and square foot gardening. In the coming
weeks I'll try to concentrate on urban and suburban survival topics.
« Letter Re: A New Lock Bumping Threat--Medeco M3s at Risk! |Main| Letter Re: Advice on Small, Incremental Silver Investing Purchases »
Letter Re: Povidone (Betadine) Will Be Exempted from the New U.S. Iodine Ban But Polar Pure Will Not
Jim,
I was reading through FR Doc E7-12736 (Federal Register: July 2, 2007, Volume
72, Number 126, Rules and Regulations, Page 35920-35931, online at your
link this morning when I found this language at the bottom of the document:
Sec. 1310.12 Exempt chemical mixtures.
...
(4) Iodine products classified as iodophors that exist as an iodine complex
to include poloxamer-iodine complex, polyvinyl pyrrolidone-iodine complex
(i.e., povidone-iodine), undecoylium chloride iodine, nonylphenoxypoly (ethyleneoxy)
ethanol-iodine complex, iodine complex with phosphate ester of alkylaryloxy
polyethylene glycol, and iodine complex with ammonium ether sulfate/polyoxyethylene
sorbitan monolaurate.
It appears that Betadine and some other organic iodine compounds will continue
to be available.
Thanks for the great blog, and God bless you and your family. Your brother
in Christ, - DF
JWR Replies: Thanks for making that clarification. We can
breathe a sigh of relief about Betadine, but sadly, not Polar Pure water purifier,
which uses iodine crystals.
The latest
that I've heard from preparedness vendors is that Polar Pure will not be
totally banned from sale, but that
the Federal government will soon be mandating a new licensing procedure
costing $2,400 per year for wholesalers, and $1,200 per year for retailers,
with the costs to be borne by the vendors. There will also be severe purchase
quantity
limits, and "positive tracking" of iodine products (over 2% solution)
through every step of commerce from manufacture to wholesalers, to retailers,
and finally
and right down to electronic
logging the names and addresses of every retail customer. Again, the
cost of compliance (and the time required for record keeping)
will be
borne by the
vendors. To offset these costs, wholesalers and retailers will undoubtedly
raise their prices. With licensing at multiple levels plus the sales tracking
paperwork, the price of Polar Pure and other potent iodine products will surely
skyrocket. So
stock up now, before prices increase. Polar Pure is still under $12
per bottle from Ready
Made Resources, with no DEA paperwork. But if you dawdle a few months,
I predict that you will find that it will be selling
for $30+ per bottle, and you will have your particulars enshrined in some
Federal database. I've said it before: Whenever a government interferes
and enacts
a ban, freeze,
or other control, prices are bound to rise.
« EBay Expands its Firearms Parts/Magazine Sales Ban--and SurvivalBlog Takes Action |Main| Letter Re: Garage/Shelter for RVs as a Retreat Option? »
Letter Re: Observations on the Flooding in Central England
Sir:
You might have seen the news reports about the flooding in Central England
last week. We’re in amongst it, but fortunately (and thanks to forward
planning) high enough to have remained dry.
The primary cause of the floods was a prolonged period of exceptionally
heavy rain, up to 131mm (c.5-1/2 inches) in one day. This followed hot
on the heels
of a very wet summer which left the ground sodden an unable to absorb the
downpour, which caused flash-flooding as it ran off.
Areas not normally flood-prone have been inundated. Rivers broke their
banks and filled their flood-plains.
Now this part of the country is used to flooding, although not in the summer
months, as it has two of the UK’s most unstable rivers, the Severn
and the Avon, passing through it. This episode, however, has been notable
for the
sheer amounts and force of the of water and depths of flooding. See this
link and this
link for some of the BBC's coverage…
The mayhem and disruption caused has been bad enough, but it has been compounded
by the behaviour of some which can only be described as moronic. Conversely,
the bravery of many, both in the response services and the public, has been
humbling to see.
The floods caused chaos with the transport links, with railway lines and
roads under several feet of water, even the M5 and M50 motorways (our equivalent
to freeways) were closed after they disappeared under anything up to a foot
of floodwater. This caused huge tailbacks with several thousand people stranded
for up to twenty hours in their vehicles. One woman went into labour whilst
in
the jam on the M5 and the emergency services were unable to reach her either
by ambulance or helicopter because of the conditions. Fortunately a truck-driver
stuck near to her car realised the situation and used his vehicle to force
a way through the water and the traffic to tow the woman’s car to the
ambulance. He then apparently had to tow the ambulance as it too had become
overwhelmed
by the water. They managed to get the woman to hospital in time for the child
to be born in the dry.
Towns and villages have been cut off for several days with residents needing
rescue by boat or helicopter as the waters rose so quickly. As is always
the case, some residents opt to stay with their property and many of these
had to
be rescued later as levels continued to rise.
The situation has been made worse by the failure of mains services; electricity
and water plant were flooded, even though they were sited above normal flood
levels. A water treatment plant was overwhelmed and engineers are having
to wait till flood levels drop sufficiently for them to get in and assess
the damage.
It is estimated that mains water will be off for at least two weeks. This
has resulted in the water company having to import bottled water into the
area for
drinking purposes and, when the floodwaters dropped sufficiently, the placing
of water bowsers to enable people to obtain clean water for sanitation. Sadly,
although not surprisingly, there have been cases of people vandalising the
bowsers, by breaking open the taps and even by polluting the contents. There
is one confirmed
case of someone urinating into a life saving tank. Looting has become a problem
in areas that have been evacuated, forcing police to be diverted from rescue
to deal with the crimes. There was an attempt to steal a length of temporary
flood barrier, supposedly for its high scrap value. It is perhaps a pity
that the thieves were thwarted in their attempt as on the other side of the
barrier
was several feet of floodwater.
Shops outside the affected zone have seen their entire supplies of water,
milk and bread bought out by ‘enterprising’ individuals who later
tried to sell them at highly inflated prices to the stranded people. Fortunately
the police dealt with this unsavoury bunch and the practice has all but ceased.It
is now just a week since the worst downpour, although the unseasonal rains
continue
to add to the misery. It took considerably less than a week, however,
for the infrastructure to break down. With no water or electricity,
empty shops and no means of re-supply, many people were in dire straits within
a couple of
days.
The elderly, infirm and those with young families were, and in many cases
still are, in deep trouble.
For families who could remain in their homes, or who have since returned,
to areas which are still without power and mains water, basic sanitation
is an
increasing problem. Toilet flushing has to be rationed, clothes washing is
virtually impossible
and personal hygiene requires a level of thought and discipline that few
are used to. One woman in her forties was seen on the television stating
that she
thought it appalling that the authorities had not been round to each home
to ‘tell
us what to do’. Personal responsibility and the thought that maybe the ‘authorities’ had
other things on their mind at the time did not seem to enter her thinking.As
the swollen rivers send the excess waters downstream the floods, power outages
and disruption travel along with them.
There has been some respite from the rains which has allowed the levels upstream
to drop, and flooding to recede, but at the time of writing (Friday 27th
July) more heavy rains are forecast for Saturday night and key personnel
have been placed on stand-by within the response services. Further flooding
is predicted as the ground is still sodden and unable to absorb any more
water. Whilst writing this first report, the post has got through and I’ve
received my copy of "Patriots" from
the lovely people at Amazon. The opening quotation from Gene Roddenberry
makes a far better ending than
any I could come up with: ‘Nuclear war is not necessary to cause a
breakdown of our society……their
water supply comes from hundreds of miles away and any interruption of that,
or food, or power for any period of time you’re going to have riots in
the streets. Our society is so fragile, so dependent on (the) interworking
of things…"
Postscript:
This has been the largest real-time test of our prepping to date. We live in
a fairly isolated spot and power outages are common, but this time we have
been cut-off by the floodwaters and have been thrown, albeit for a short time,
upon our own resources.
Our decision was to bug-in as we believed we would fare best here; the location
was chosen carefully although with some compromise due to the need to be near
places of employment.
That said, it seems everyone, us included, were surprised by the sheer amounts
of rain – the most in living memory in the region – and just how
quickly transport and communications failed. Had we bugged out in the midst
of it, we would very likely been refugees ourselves. When the recovery phase
is fully underway, we will re-appraise our planning and handling of the event.
Remember, no plan survives first contact..Keep safe. - Michael in England
JWR Adds: I find it amazing that in the midst of this crisis,
so many people are letting the copious rainwater from their roof downspouts
go to waste.
They
just
don't
have
the survival
mindset. At the very least, they could be using rainwater for clothes
washing, bathing, and toilet flushing. With a water filter, they could also
use rainwater for
drinking and cooking.
Take a minute to read his piece, by way of SHTF Daily:
Living
life without any tap water Take special note of the final quote in the
article: "We also have to use bottled water to flush down the toilet,
which is a waste, but we don't have any choice." Common sense, it seems,
is all too uncommon.
« Letter Re: Canadian Retreat Locales |Main| Note from JWR: »
What if The Schumer Doesn't Hit The Fan? - Reasons to Prepare Anyway, by MB
As long as I can remember, I have felt that someday the comforts of a modern
American lifestyle would vanish, at least temporarily. So I have made small
mental preparations for some time now; keeping my mind and body fit and strong,
staying informed, dropping hints to the wife, etc. Recently, and mostly after
reading Patriots, I have a renewed interest in preserving my life and protecting
those I love.
After educating myself on the subject of survival, I felt, as I’m sure
many others have, very vulnerable and even overwhelmed. I needed to take action,
immediately. Many thoughts spring into one’s mind during these moments. “What
will I feed my children; oh man, water is essential; what about all those crazy
people in the city, I need a gun, I need several guns; I need to move to North
Dakota!” Sloooow down! These are daunting items. Once you quiet your
mind and restore some sense of calm (it may take a couple days), you realize
that you must be realistic. It’s not feasible for most of us to pack
up an arsenal and move to a remote retreat in the hills or forests of the upper
Midwest. We have jobs and responsibilities, relatives and friends; lives that
at least for the time being, limit our options. And there is also the feeling
that hundreds or even thousands of dollars spent on preparations could be wasted
if The Schumer doesn’t ever Hit The Fan. (Doubtful, but it does cross
one’s
mind) A sense of urgency is implied; however, a caution against panic is warranted.
It’s easy in this post 9/11 age to let fear control your life. Don’t!
Simply take comfort in the fact that doing something to prepare for various
scenarios, however big or small, will most importantly increase your odds of
survival in the worst of emergencies, but also increase your comfort in the
less dire situations and even improve your life now.
You Don’t Have to
Move to Idaho--Survival Mindset for City Folk
I wanted to write an article for people like myself who are in the beginning
stages of survival preparation. People on limited budgets, who may not live
on farms, or maybe have never served in the military or had experience with
guns. Those people who live in or near a city, particularly congested east
coast cities. I write for those city dwellers and suburbanites in less than
ideal regions; students, urban professionals, everyday people. However, it
can apply to just about anyone who is not already well “squared away”.
I will attempt to provide ideas on where to begin, how to prioritize and how
to prepare mentally and with limited monetary resources for a multitude of
events. I will try to focus on things that can be useful now and for a lifetime.
My intent is not to instruct on what exactly is needed for every particular
individual; there are more capable advisors for that. I aim to get people thinking
and to provide a more general approach to surviving the times.
Get Your Mind
Right
First and foremost is your mindset. Think about your values, your morals. What
is most important in your life? Who is most important to you? How far are you
willing to go to protect them? In the most serious situation, we would do anything,
right? Why let it come to that? There’s good reason to get motivated.
Put yourself and your family in the best possible position for survival now,
so you don’t have to act out of desperation later. Also, think about
what you spend your money on and where you spend it. Do you really need that
big screen plasma television? What are you teaching your children about spirituality,
health, money? Just as important, what are others teaching your children? You
see where I’m going here. It’s not all about beans, bullets and
Band-Aids. It’s about your mentality. Only the strongest-willed individuals
will make it through tough times, be it TEOTWAWKI,
high school, or simply life as an adult in the 21st century.
Beginning Logistics
Now think about tangible items to have on hand. Make a list. Just jot down
ideas, then categorize (based on cost or type) and prioritize later. Your location
and climate will impact your list. Set up your inventory and storage on varying
degrees of threat and length of time of crisis. For instance a blackout that
lasts 30 days vs. a full scale economic collapse. Will you be staying put or
escaping to a safer location? What criteria will you base your decision on?
What would you miss most if something tragic happened? Put yourself in that
situation. The obvious answers are food and more importantly, water. If you
are human, you already eat and drink water, so this is nothing new. You just
need to think about having more of it on hand. In turn, storage is needed.
We find room for other items; we can find room for potentially life saving
sustenance. Package enough easily transportable food for 30 days. A durable
plastic tote should work well. Then store enough for much longer periods of
time. Buy a little extra food with each grocery shopping trip and date it.
Not extra chips or TV dinners, get extra items such as dried fruit or granola
that will last for an extended period of time, without electricity. Buy in
bulk and incorporate raw grains into your diet. Start a garden. Not only will
you know how to prepare these foods now, you will be more accustomed to eating
them later, not to mention the health benefits. Think about buying a food dehydrator.
They are reasonably priced. Keep a few five gallon containers of water in
your garage, basement or crawlspace. If you live in an apartment, do you have
a
spare room or a patio? For long term situations, any amount of water that can
be conveniently stored in most homes will be consumed surprisingly fast. Think
about other sources and get a good water filter. Again, this is prudent to
have anyway. A [compact] portable filter might come in handy also. With both
food and water, as much as possible, use your storage as supplement, not a
main source.
Little by little set aside money and acquire items you will need.
Keep
an extra
supply of first aid items on hand. Don’t forget some of the less apparent
items like toilet paper, sanitation, batteries, tools, candles, medications
and fuel. Keep some spare 5 gallon containers of stabilized gas in your shed.
It’s not wasteful as it can be used in your vehicles at any
time. And with the rising gas prices it may prove to be a worthwhile investment.
Don’t forget to rotate [your stocks]. Consider buying a generator. In
a full scale crisis, drawing attention to yourself and home with a loud, light-producing
device is not going to be very smart, but when power goes out and the masses
aren’t yet rioting in the streets, a generator will be nice to have.
Get a portable model. Study maps and plan different routes to and from your
home. Keep an emergency kit in your car. This is by no means a complete list,
it’s designed to get you started. Yes, the preparations are abundant.
Don’t get overwhelmed into thinking you have to get it all at once. The
key is minimization. Minimize the chances that you will be taken by surprise,
wondering why you didn’t do something earlier. Start small and with things
you can use in everyday life. The wealth of available information on specifics
is immense. This web page is a great resource. It’s up to you to educate
yourself and determine exactly what and how much you will need.
Help Others
Help You
Working together will be to your advantage during crunch time. Find strength
in numbers. Seek out others who share your values and have skills you lack.
How can you help each other? Build relationships and share ideas. Educate others,
but be careful as you can imagine the funny looks you might get if you start
prophesying doomsday. And guess who’s doorstep they’ll be standing
on come crunch time. I am a firm believer that the more people around you that
are prepared, the better off all of us are. If your neighbors can take care
of themselves, then it’s more likely your preparations will be preserved
in the event of crisis. In short, at least fewer of your neighbors will be
knocking on your door the same day of an event.
Securing Your Castle
I’d like to take a moment to discuss security, specifically firearms.
If you have studied survival even a little, then you are aware that arming
yourself ranks high on the list of recommendations. Perhaps some of you share
my reluctance to build an armory in my home. I have children, and being married
to someone who is strictly against guns makes security a particularly difficult
element in my survival preparations. While I recognize security as an absolute
must, I have reservations about keeping a device designed to kill in my home.
Ironically the reasons not to own a gun are the very reasons why I feel I should
own gun. The reasons are aged 2-11, not including the Mrs. In a volatile scenario
that could spiral out of control; I would feel helpless without weapons to
protect my family. All the stockpiling of food and water will be futile if
some thug can easily take it from you (and maybe your lives with it). If you
do decide to own a firearm (or firearms), don’t flaunt it and please
educate yourself and practice. Keep a chamber or trigger lock in place and
store the
ammunition
in a different location if necessary. In addition, don’t rule out other
ways of defending yourself. Albeit, less formidable, they are less expensive.
These include pepper spray, knives, batons, stun guns and martial arts. I don’t
think I need to remind people that these are mostly ineffective against attackers
with guns, or even large groups of unarmed evil doers. However, they may prove
useful in that they are very portable and can be used in less dire emergencies.
Deterrence in the form of dogs, fencing, motion detection, alarm systems and
location should also be considered. Protection from those who intend to harm
is imperative and yet another item that is useful even today.
Back to Basics
Take an assessment of your skill sets. What knowledge do you posses that would
be of value in a crisis situation? Don’t worry, if needed, your survival
instincts will take hold, but some basic skills can make you an asset and will
help you survive. Develop and hone these skills now. Start simply; make your
own bread, catch your own fish, grow your own vegetables, prepare healthier,
less processed meals. I enjoy beer, I brew my own. It’s rewarding and
I’ve learned much from it. Learn basic plumbing, carpentry and electrical
skills. You don’t have to be a master mechanic, but any vehicle owner
should know the basics; how to change the oil, filters and spark plugs. Having
a skill can be just as valuable as having an inventory; you never leave home
without it and could earn you a spot in a group if needed. Maybe you are a
dog trainer or electronics engineer. Don’t forget your kids. Teach your
children to swim, hunt, split wood or sow a garden. It seems that all too often,
in our frenzied lifestyles, we focus all our energy on skills that will get
us fat paychecks and forget the simpler but more important things. Get back
to basics. Slow down. Simplify. If something isn’t adding positive value
to your life, eliminate it. Many preparedness items can be fun and done as
a family. Go camping, take hikes, etc. If you have kids, consider home schooling
them. Most importantly get to know your children; spend time with them.
It’s
Up to You
You can make self sufficiency a way of life without going “off the deep
end,” so to speak. Taking action will not only give you peace of mind,
a sort of insurance policy, but also can improve your life in the meantime.
Many corollary benefits will emerge. Here are some that come to mind: Less
reliance on outside institutions, money saved, healthier eating habits, time
spent with your family. Regardless of the future, you’ll be teaching
your children to be prepared, to think logically and independently and not
to have a lazy, consumerist attitude of entitlement that dominates our culture
today.
This writing isn’t packed full of technical how-to information, but I
sincerely hope it helps to serve those of you that may feel overwhelmed and
don’t know where to begin and to breathe hope into those who are obliged
to retain their current lives without major upheaval. There are many who see
the challenges involved with getting ready and are scared into doing nothing.
For one reason or another they go back to sleep, their head comfortably lodged
in the sand. Don’t be one of those people. Enjoy the time and blessings
you have, but be ready. An old proverb says “Trust in God, but tie up
your camel.” Just the same, pray for peace, but prepare for war.
« Letter Re: With Inflation Ahead, Why Be Debt Free? |Main| Note from JWR: »
On Spring and Well Water, and Some Water Treatment Basics
Plentiful fresh drinking water for drinking, cooking, washing, and gardening
is the most critical resource for all societies. The vast
majority of the residents of First World countries are dependent on grid power
to supply their water. When the grid goes down for more than a few days, water
towers will soon be drained and huge numbers of people will be forced to draw
water from open sources. Thankfully, there are streams, rivers, lakes, and
ponds in walking distance of most homes. Rainwater from roof downspouts can
also be used. But the logistics of hauling water will just by itself be a challenge.
Next, people will need treat all that water, or face infection. Most families
don't own a water filter. Boiling water is an option, but only for those that
have natural gas, propane, or wood cooking stoves, since electric ranges don't
work without grid power. Even folks with well water will face difficulties,
unless they have a backup generator, or better yet a fully capable alternative
energy system. (Coincidentally, we
recently addressed emergency well buckets in SurvivalBlog.)
Spring Water
Gravity-fed spring water is the ideal water supply for a rural retreat. There
is no need for power, relatively low installation expense, low maintenance
and little risk of frozen pipes. But unfortunately very few properties are
blessed with a spring that is situated to provide gravity flow to a house.
When I advise my consulting clients, I urge them to make gravity-fed spring
water a top priority when they are evaluating properties when relocating.
Well Water
Grid-powered wells are problematic, since most wells use just a small pressure
tank. Whenever there is a power failure, the water pressure drops to nil in
just a short time. Photovoltaically-pumped well water is a good solution, albeit
with a fairly high installation cost. With a large cistern that is positioned
to supply gravity flow to your house (typically 35 to 60 feet of "head")
you can skip putting a battery bank in your system. When the sun shines, it
pumps, and when the sun sets it stops. Simple. A float switch on the cistern
will insure that you prevent needless wear and tear on you pump.
Ultraviolet (UV) treatment is an interesting innovation that was first
embraced by fish farmers and by koi pond enthusiasts. The UV technology
is quite promising for anyone that has a shallow well or spring that has
an unacceptable bacteria count. (This typically happens during a flood, or
seasonally with heavy rains that increase surface water that can get into
a well or spring.) The UV
method of treatment is growing in popularity in the US and Canada because
there is no need for chemicals. Ultraviolet light rays--just like those from
the sun that produce sunburn, only stronger--alter the DNA of
bacteria, viruses, molds, and parasites, so that they cannot reproduce. They
are not killed, but are merely rendered sterile. Thus, they safely pass through
your digestive tract, but cannot reproduce--which is otherwise the cause
of intestinal illness.
The three questions that readers ask me about well
and spring water are:
A.) Is well or spring water safe to drink?
Generally, yes. And because it is not fluoridated, it is probably much healthier
than public utility-provided "city" water.
B.) Do I have to worry about pesticides, MTBE, or heavy metal contaminants
in well or spring water?
Yes, and you should have the water tested before you
buy a property that has a well. Any certified lab will test for these contaminants,
as well as bacteria. Do a web search for your state's Department of Environmental
Quality (DEQ), or equivalent. The DEQ web site should list some approved/certified
commercial laboratories that do water testing. In some states, spring and
well water testing is also handled by state universities. The good news is
that you will only have to do this once, unless you hear about some
drastic change in local water conditions.
C.) Do I need to chlorinate my well or spring water?
In most cases, no. As preciously mentioned, it is possible that your well
might get contaminated by a flood, or seasonally contaminated with coliform
bacteria
from rain water run-off. The best solution is to use a UV sterilizer year-round,
so that you don't have to worry about it. Alternatively, if you know that
there has been a contamination, you could add a calculated quantity of plain
hypochlorite liquid bleach solution down your well shaft, as
described at this web site. But if there is continual bacterial
contamination of your well or spring then again the best solution
is to use a UV sterilizer year-round.
Open Sources
As mentioned previously, water from open sources must always be treated before
use. Typical chlorine concentrations will kill bacteria
but not all viruses. So I recommend a three step approach
to treating water from open sources:
1.) Pre-filtering. This remove particulate matter. Pouring
water though a couple of thickness of t-shirts or tightly-woven bath towels
works fine. The water that comes through will still look like tea, but at least
you
will have removed the crud and larger particles. By pre-filtering, you will
also extend the life of your water filter. (You avoid clogging the microscopic
pores in teh filter media.)
2.) Chlorinating. This can be accomplished following the
time and concentration guidelines previously discussed in SurvivalBlog.
3.) Filtering. I recommend the large Katadyn or British Berkefeld
filters. Some filter elements available for Katadyn or British Berkefeld filters
can even remove chlorine. (Complete filter systems and spare filter elements
are available from Ready
Made Resources, Safecastle,
and other Internet vendors)
Compact Water Treatment Systems
I am often asked about compact water filters for backpacking, hunting trips,
and "Get Out of Dodge"/"Bug Out" situations. For this,
Katadyn makes an excellent compact water filter/pump called a Pocket
Filter. The volume
of water that they can process is limited, but they are perfect for their intended
purpose.
Another
option
is the recently introduced Hydro
Photon SteriPEN--a compact battery-powered
UV sterilizer. This is a miniatur version of a home water
UV
sterilizer.
Very clever! We are currently testing one here at the Rawles
Ranch. Look for a product review of the SteriPEN that will be posted on
SurvivalBlog next week. SteriPENs are available from Safecastle, Ready
Made Resources, and
several other Internet vendors.
An even more compact water treatment method for lightweight backpacking is
Polar
Pure--essentially just iodine crystals in a mesh-top bottle. This is
used to create a strong iodine solution that is in turn used to treat a quantity
of water. As recently mentioned in SurvivalBlog, the US government is about
to ban the sale of iodine crystals and iodine solutions over 2%, since they
now deem iodine to be a "precursor" chemical for illicit drug manufacture.
Therefore, I strongly recommend that all SurvivalBlog readers in the
US get themselves a
lifetime supply of Polar Pure, as soon as possible. It is sold by Ready
Made Resources and several other Internet vendors.
It is important that every prepared family make plans in advance on
exactly how they will handle their water supply in the event of a long-term
grid-down situation. Buy the gear. test is extensively. Also research a primary,
secondary, and even tertiary source of water in your area. You need to plan
ahead for transporting that water, even if fuel for vehicles is
not available. Think in terms of a two-wheel
garden cart or a bicycle
cargo trailer with "Slimed"
tires--or better yet, foam-filled "airless" tires (available from PerformanceBike.com
or Nashbar.com).
A cart or trailer can be loaded with 5 or 6 gallon plastic buckets or water
cans. (For planning purposes, each 5 gallon water can will weigh about 42 pounds,
so you'll want a cart or trailer with at least 200 pound capacity.) Oh yes,
and don't forget
that
if times get really bad you'll need to plan for a
security detail,
to protect
the water
detail. This is starting to get complicated, isn't it? And if you are unfortunate
enough to live in an area that lacks open
water sources available in every month of the year that are
within walking distance, then you ought to seriously consider relocating to
area with
more
plentiful
water
.
Make plans to to be able to distribute water purification supplies as charity.
(Pool Shock chlorination tablets can be bought in a five gallon pail--enough
to treat many hundreds of thousands of gallons of
water. Make some photocopies of of directions for using hypochlorite tablets.
A few
plastic zip lock bags of hypochlorite tablets (roughly 6 ounces per bag) along
with direction sheets could save hundreds of lives.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Two Letters Re: Advice on a Budget Rifle Battery for Retreat Security »
Letter Re: Some Observations on Self-Sufficiency and Retreat Security
James,
I greatly appreciate SurvivalBlog and the solid, thoughtful info it contains,
and have printed out numerous posts for future reference. It seems for many
the
ideal
is having a bug-out location, so perhaps readers could glean some useful information
from my experience owning and operating a fair-sized ranch, one of the goals
of which is to be as independent as possible.
Specific observation on particular issues:
WATER
Top of the list, everything else is secondary. If you don't have indoor water
for cooking, bathing, toilets, etc., the quality of life quickly plummets. Try
hauling all of the water you need from the creek for a few days and you'll agree.
Make a reliable water supply your top priority.
Absent a pure gravity-flow situation from a spring or lake, without outside electricity
you can lift water with a wind-powered mill, solar pump, or conventional submersible
pump powered by a generator. Because of our location in central Texas with abundant
sunshine, we chose to employ solar-powered pumps. They cost about the same as
a windmill but pump more water and are far more reliable. We currently have three
solar pumps made by Grundfos, each powered by two 170 watt solar panels. Two
of the pumps are in wells about 100' deep, the other is in a spring-fed lake.
These types of pumps have the huge advantage of using both 12 volt or 220 volt
standard power, so they can be powered from the grid, by generator, from the
solar panels, or even by jumper cables from a vehicle, which gives lots of options
to keep the water flowing. You just have to be certain to unplug the solar panels
from the system before using 220 volt power. The pumps supply 3,000 gallon storage
tanks with float valves; when the tanks are full the float cuts off the flow
of water and a pressure switch at the well turn off the pump when pressure reaches
60 lb. The storage tanks then supply water gravity flow to the house and orchard/garden.
We also have 10,000 gallons of storage which catches water from the roof, and
can be routed into the house by simply opening a valve.
No matter how carefully a plumbing project is planned and materials lists are
drawn, such as adding more irrigation to the garden, for example, it is rare
to complete work without another trip or three for additional materials. I would
advise having plenty of spare fittings and pipe, as well as items like pressure
switches, breakers, and on/off switches. It is also an obvious advantage to have
a standard pipe size, say 1 inch, so spare parts are interchangeable.
Give a great deal of thought to your water system. Good planning at the start
will allow different aspects to be tied together for redundancy, as well as prevent
haphazard add-ons later, not to mention needless expense. Once the system is
in place and operational, it is relatively maintenance-free, with only the rare
switch failure or even rarer leak.
POWER/FUEL/OIL
For household use such as cook tops, ovens, hot water, and even lighting, propane
is hard to beat. With a large tank (I recommend a minimum of a thousand gallons),
the supply can be stretched to last for years. And propane has zero storage problems,
being practically immortal.
Diesel and gas storage have been discussed at great length, so I won't add to
that here.
It's hard to have too much two-cycle oil to mix with gas for chainsaws, as well
as motor oil and filters (start saving used motor oil for chainsaw lube), hydraulic
oil, grease, and differential lube. Also, we have more problems with tires (due
to cactus and mesquite thorns, primarily) than any other mechanical problem,
so gallon jugs of a tire sealer product and a reliable way to air up tires, even
if only a hand pump, is essential.
Cooking oil, lamp oil, and light lubrication oil can be pressed from sunflowers,
walnuts, pecans, flaxseed, peanuts, and many more. A simple hand-cranked press
(www.piteba.com) looks to be adequate for household use, though I can give a
further report once my sunflowers ripen next fall and I've given it a thorough
test-drive. Olive oil can be used for the same purposes, though olives will only
fruit in the far southern reaches of the US and the equipment to extract the
oil is fairly expensive. Even so, we've planted a dozen olive trees and we'll
see how they do.
Solar power with an inverter is an option I'm exploring for running power tools
and refrigeration, but as yet have no direct experience with it. But it seems
a viable alternative, with limits.
GARDEN/ORCHARD
It takes a vast amount of experience and experimentation to reliably grow, process,
store, and save the seeds from vegetables (Grandpappy's thoughts on seed saving
were excellent, BTW). If the extent of your preparations in this area is a supply
of heirloom seeds and three books on gardening, I've got some bad news: you're
gonna starve. But don't despair, a great deal can be learned on a small scale:
grow just a couple of tomato, squash, beans, peas, etc., and keep experimenting
and saving seeds until you find what works best in your location. Once you know
how to grow particular vegetables, it's relatively easy to ramp up the area to
grow a significant food supply. But if starting from zero, it will take several
years to become proficient.
Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are the way to go for most vegetables, at least
in our locale, as they not only save water but reduce weed competition. Corn
is the only plant I still put in rows and irrigate in the conventional way.
Our orchard is only now coming of age and starting to produce, as the trees are
four years old. The forty fruit trees are also drip irrigated when necessary.
One of the biggest problems related to fruit trees, aside from pests and diseases,
is varmints; coons, possums, and ringtailed cats. Our solution when the fruit
is ripening is leaving a dog in the fenced-in orchard at night.
We obtain more food from our 1.5 acre orchard and garden than we do from the
rest of the ranch combined, and we only plant a small portion of it each year,
so production could be greatly expanded in a pinch.
SECURITY
The whole key to security, in my view, lies in not being surprised. If the first
inkling I have of trouble is when six vehicles with twenty-five armed men slide
to a stop in my yard then I'm in exceptionally deep Schumer. So a layered approach,
as James has outlined, makes excellent sense. Observation Posts (OPs) and MURS-type
detection equipment [such as a Dakota
Alert] are essential to having early warning
to
problems,
and
for
most of
us, if we're
alerted, we'll be a very tough nut to crack.
A couple of good, well-trained dogs much more than pay their own way, acting
as an alert and deterrent for intruders, as well as trailing game, barking at
poisonous snakes, and, as mentioned earlier, keeping varmints out of the orchard
and garden and away from the house. At the risk of blaspheming, if I had to pick
only one rifle , it would be a .223. Now I'm well aware that a .308 has a lot
more energy, range, and penetration, and I have several battle rifles in .308
that
I
love, but for one weapon to carry everywhere, every day, .223 is my choice.
First of all, I can't begin to count the number of deer and large feral hogs
I've killed with one shot from a .223, so I have plenty of confidence in the
round. But from a more practical standpoint, I've been amazed when carefully
reading history with the number of settlers killed by Comanche indians in the
old days right in this area because they were caught unarmed. And I realized
they
were
usually caught unarmed because it's hard to weed the garden, cut wood, catch
a cow, plow a field, wash clothes in the creek, butcher a hog, gather pecans,
and a thousand other practical tasks when constantly toting a heavy rifle.
And the same may well hold true for us someday. A six and half pound .223 in
AR platform or Mini-14 will be a lot more likely to be at hand when needed in
the midst of constant work than a twelve pound H&K. Your mileage may vary,
of course. - Bois d'Arc
« Letter Re: Mercenaries a Post-TEOTWAWKI Threat |Main| Note from JWR: »
Reader Poll Results: Your TEOTWAWKI Resume -- 100 Words and 100 Pounds
Some of these stretched the 100 word limit. (I skipped posting one that rambled
on far
beyond the limit.) The poll's premise in a nutshell: "If
someday you went to the gates of a survival community post-TEOTWAWKI and
pleaded the case for why you should be let past the barricades and armed guards
to become a valuable working member of the group, would you get voted in? Taken
objectively, would you vote yourself in?"
I am a shoe maker (not just a repairman) can repair saddles tan leather have
done ranch work mechanics weld gardening skills set a broken bone stitch up
a bad wound can bake bread etc, shooting skills need work only 5.5 MOA on AQT.
Can milk a cow make butter some basic carpentry skills can use a wood lave
make one if needed to know how to set up wind / water power to a shop or mill
make
some one laugh when things are bad can teach can also learn.know how to adapt
over come make things work specialization is for insects.
Some limits to work: mild back problems cannot do a lot of over head work.
1 CETME rifle with 12 mags, ALICE pack, compressed MREs, 1 folding shovel camo
nylon rope water filtering canteen extra canteen freeze dried canned soup 1
empty
small can rubbing alcohol cotton balls (cheap cook stove) 1 cooking kit 1 med
kit 1 multi tool 1 roll toilet paper 1 wash cloth 2 tooth brushes tooth paste
1 belt with bayonet for CETME one pocket knife canteen & pouch cleaning
kit for rifle and butt pack 2 mag pouches fishing line and hooks matches 4
Bic
lighters 1 Iver Johnson 5 shot .38 S&W revolver 36 rounds of ammo, Flecktarn
camo pants and shirt vest 1 light weight sleeping bag wool socks and
a
spare pair sturdy boots, Carthart coat tan 1 pocket size bible etc,,
--
Many years' experience in:
Primitive Skills:
*edible and medicinal native plants
*cordage and rope making
*hide tanning
*bow and arrow making
*bow hunting
Contemporary Skills:
*organic gardener
*orchard (fruit and olive)
*beekeeper
*firearms use
Mid-50's, good shape for age, 6'4", 225#. Wife, mid 50's, 5'10", 150#
(who shares many of the above skills, plus expert at canning/freezing, quilting,
tatting, making clothes and moccasins).
Both have a sense of humor and aren't afraid to work.
In packs, besides personal gear:
*heirloom seeds
*needles
*lighters
Carrying:
*one .308 MBR, one .223, with magazines and ammo
*two .45 Governments
--
Age 25, weight 160, excellent health, single. Engineer, engine mechanic, builder,
jack of all trades. Trained and competitive marksman. Skilled teacher. Tolerant,
thick skinned, sense of humor. Introvert, not loner. Schooled in college, educated
in real life. History buff and cook.
Competent with photovoltaics, backhoes, generators, concrete, gardens, propane
systems, AC and DC electricity, firearms, computers, welding.
Most importantly: not a prima donna, armchair commando, or busybody.
Equipment includes rifle, pistol, small amount of ammo, soft body armor and
binoculars.
--
Age: Near 60. Can still
see well enough, without glasses, to shoot back.
Old, tired, wore out. Been around the third world several times. (South America,
South Seas, East Asia) Can't lift a third my own weight. Don't eat much. Know
how to do just about anything.
Will arrive with 30 Lbs water, 30 Lbs freeze dried food, Ruger Mini 14, S&W
659, 100 rds for each, a few old books. and 50+ years usable knowledge. That
about 100 pounds? (Worst case here. Actually, I would attempt to bring my entire
robotics shop. Attempt, I said! )
Skills: Artificer. If you can picture it, I can make it. Make a windmill from
a starter motor. Make my own tools as I need 'em. Bend railroad rail with no
more than an axe and 6 young men for the bull work. Machinist, electrician,
carpenter, stone layer, robotics engineer .
--
Age 25. Ex-military.
Trained extensively in: Perimeter reconnaissance,
Land-navigation.
Instructor of: full-spectrum warfare, defensive fighting positions, combat
operations.
Expert marksmen: M16A2, M4A1 (GUU-5/P), M9. Expert in FN-FAL,
M1A/M14, AKM, M16/AR-15 Family, 1911-A1, M9, CZ-75. Proficient with many other
firearms.
20/15 vision. Reloading/Gunsmith hobbyist.
Physically/Mentally Fit.
Pragmatic/Realist/Professional.
Equipped: FAL Carbine (18"bbl). Custom 1911A1. PASGT Kevlar Helmet/Vest. Boots/Socks. Woodland BDUs.
Custom LBE: Seven 30rd FAL Mags(210rds). Eight 8rd 1911-1 Mags( 64rds). Two 1-quart Canteens (Full). Multi-tool.
Medium ALICE pack: Five 20rd FAL mags (empty),
Two SA Battlepacks (280rds). Two Boxes .45ACP (100rds).
First-Aid Kit. Extra BDUs (1 set). Cans of Soup (5). Mess
Kit. Local Map/Compass.
--
Phd/MBA expert (37) on alternative energy and appropriate technology. Tool
maker and builder/manufacturer/processor of useful post-TEOTWAWKI machines,
trade goods, and alcohol (own BATF-licensed alcohol fuel still). Russian MBA
wife (35) survived fall of Soviet Union and 1998 crisis. 4 yo and 10 mo daughters.
Home machine shop, tools, anvil, forge, ethanol still, large printed alternative
energy / appropriate technology / engineering / survival library, and inventory
of preparation items greatly exceed the 100 lb per person limit but would be
worthy of a group salvage/recovery mission. G.O.O.D. bags contain standard
items recommended by Rawles, et al. Additional personally carried gear would
include M1A w/ Leupold scope, AR-15 with trijicon night sites, Glock 21 (45ACP)
with Trijicon night sites, Berkey water filter, laptop with large collection
(>500 books) of appropriate energy and appropriate technology books on CD,
Robinson curriculum on CDs for home schooling kids, ten 15"x15" fresnel
lenses capable of starting fires in 30 seconds, disassembled 2" diameter
alcohol still column with supply of vapor locks and 1 lb of ethanol yeast,
and a few of my more portable tools (blacksmith hammer, hardy, & gloves;
measurement tools; multimeter; temperature measure).
--
48 y/o 6ft 180lb male – good health
- Can walk 20 mi/day in full gear
- “Rifleman” with .308 MBR
- Doctor (emergency medicine and minor surgery)
- Gunsmith and reloader
- Cook
Backpack (40 lbs)
Sleeping bag/tarp
(2) BDUs & wool socks
Rain gear
Soap/camp towel/toothbrush
Food bars for 1 week
Water filter/bottle
Cookset/Trioxane tabs
Compass/map
Small survival kit (Fishhooks, matches, snares, etc)
AR-7 and 200 rounds
Web gear (35 lbs)
Knife
First aid/trauma kit
G23 + 2 mags (51 rounds)
8 mags .308 (150 rounds)
HK91
Barter/buy-in: (25 lbs)
Minor surgical set
Sutures/dressings
Local anesthetic/syringes
2000 doses various oral antibiotics and pain meds!
--
I feel I would be a great asset to your community. I am a seventh degree black
belt in American freestyle combatives and I could easily teach your people
the skills to handle themselves in this perilous time. I also have an extensive
background in firearms handling,gunsmithing and reloading. My real expertise
thought is as a meat butcher. I can literally take a beef ( or any wild or
domestic animal) from the field to the table. I bring with me a full set of
cutlery tools, including saws,steels and several knives. I also carry a AR-15
w/8-20 round, loaded mags. A Glock 19 w/mags, and a Rem 870 tactically modified.
I have a full set of ultralight camping gear including, freeze dried food,tent,
sleeping bag,etc. My loyalties are to God, Country, and my brothers at arms.
--
repaired furniture
a little basic farm work(irrigation, pick rock)
assembled some field sprayers
signalman
roofing
painting
inventory control/purchasing
drafting
some hunting
a lot of fishing
a lot of target shooting
cashier(a lot)
lube and oil cars
janitor
built 40 wood tables for an assembly line
sorted recycled paper
stock shelves
gas station attendant
a little gardening(corn,peas,onions)
unarmed watch
yard work(mowing, weeding)
sandwich/donut driver
some bow and arrow
some encrima [Philippine stick fighting martial art]
some cooking
printers helper
some CPR
--
Male, 38, 160 pounds. Reasonable shape.
Skills:
Suturing, minor surgery, advanced airway management, cautery, fractures, casting,
NBC treatment, tooth extraction and making dental fillings. 2 home births.
Pistol. Morse code.
Supplies:
Sutures, antibiotics, casting supplies, complete surgery tools and dental extraction
set.
.45, scoped M21 sniper rifle plus ammo. Field scope, rangefinder. Level 4 bulletproof
vest, helmet, FRS radios.
Water filter, water, food, tent, sleeping pads and bags, heirloom seeds.
Two boys, 7 and 9 and wife. All with level 3a vests. Kids with .22 rifles and
ammo. Wife with 9mm, AR-15 and ammo. Knows some gardening. Kids learning morse
code.
--
Strengths-
Have excellent interpersonal/negotiation skills
Have made a sufficient study of military history/combat tactics/military strategy
Maintain a vegetable garden/fruit trees
Have studied/used survival techniques in N.A. and C.A.
Have knowledge of indigenous edible plants/animals in N.A. and C.A.
Have skill-at-arms on US/ComBloc small arms
Am expert in usage of map and compass
Have field grade(ditch) medical skills
Maintain personal combatives skills
Can forage and improvise like nobody’s business
Have seen the elephant
Weaknesses –
No livestock husbandry experience
Not a carpenter
Middle aged
Average driving skills
Probable TEOTWAWKI employment:
Retreat security
Weapons maintenance and training
Strategic Planning and Implementation
« Letter Re: The Importance of Proper Hearing Protection |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Poll Results: Why are You Preparing to Survive?
Here is the first round of responses to this question: Those who are well
educated enough to see a societal collapse of some sort or another in the making
fall into two groups, the merrymakers
and the preparers. The merrymakers don't see life worth living post-SHTF, so
they live it up now. We on SurvivalBlog are the preparers and have
chosen to survive, but why? Our children? To rebuild civilization?
Because the collapse will only be temporary? Because we can and we're
stubborn with a stronger than normal will to survive? The following
is just the first batch of responses. I plan to post at least one
more batch. Please send your responses (one paragraph or less) via e-mail,
and I will post them anonymously.
The survivalist is an optimist -- not
merely because he/she thinks he'll make it through the crisis, but because
of the
(possibly
subconscious)
hope
that
something good will emerge in the aftermath. It's the logic of any kind of
apocalyptic thought... Theological systems that have a conception of a climactic
struggle or an "end times" imagine that, after Armageddon, we'll
see the dawning of a new age. Not surprisingly, a lot of Hollywood movies follow
this script, too: After the aliens are defeated, for example, in "Independence
Day", mankind stands united, having put aside their differences; After
catastrophic weather changes in "The Day After Tomorrow," the planet
begins to heal itself, etc. Heck, this theme can be seen, too, in your fine
book, "Patriots". In the same way, I plan to live not only because
I'm stubborn and have a finely-tuned sense of justice -- and thus hate the
idea of turning over the planet to looters, thugs, and others who would prey
on the innocent -- but also because I'm both curious and hopeful about what
will emerge as society reconstitutes itself.
--
My modest preparation springs from the knowledge that I and the Lord are
the protectors of my family (there are five of us). Our ultimate trust is in
Him,
but it is on me to do what I reasonably can do to protect my family from in
the event of hardship and/or disaster. (After watching [Hurricane] Katrina,
it seems apparent that the government cannot do that.) Anyone reading your
web
site
thinks that
there is at least a fathomable chance that our nation's run of blessing/luck
will end (or be suspended) at some point in the future. Nothing lasts forever.
If and when that time comes, I would never forgive myself if my family suffered
unnecessarily because I did not take reasonable steps to prepare for such a
time. In addition to that, it's just plain fun to learn about this stuff. (Anyone
who says otherwise is lying!)
--
Because the alternative is inconceivable to me!
--
I’m currently going through some things in my life that are agonizing
(but subject to change) and make things feel almost hopeless for me at times,
yet every day I wake up again and thank God that he breathed the breath of
life into me. I won’t waste that breath. I’m motivated to prepare
to survive and overcome by many factors. Here are some examples:
I’m a 7th generation descendant of a settler in my current state and I’m
motivated to survive by the risks my settler ancestors took, the struggles they
went through, the multiple battles they fought in, the children they lost prematurely
and the price they paid to be here. I recently visited some of their graves for
the first time. I see it as my responsibility, honor and duty to live freely
and survive. The stock I am from is cut out for it.
I prepare to survive because I’m ultra conservative, at times feeling like
an endangered species or “minority” and I’m tenaciously defiant
to those who would like to see my “kind” exterminated. I am equipped
with a few trusted friends that are peers in regard my views (though mostly surrounded
by sheeple) and have inspired some to begin to prepare. I discern a negative
spiritual force is taking action to see my country’s sovereignty given
away. I am motivated to be a hindrance to that spirit. My country is worth saving.
I prepare to survive because as a young man I swore an oath to uphold and defend
the Constitution of the United States, despite the fact that there have been
some truly sorry individuals working to undermine that Constitution since before
I was born. I intend to see my oath fulfilled.
I prepare to survive because I read "Patriots", awoke to how fragile our economy
really is and saw how foolishly I’d been behaving in the past (assuming
life would always be normal) and am in the process of repenting of any residual
foolish, sheeple-like attitudes and habits I have.
I prepare to survive because I’ve been in a city where gasoline was temporarily
not available and walked through the local grocery store at 3:00 AM (less crowded)
and have seen the store shelves stripped of food for a short period of time.
It’s
pretty convincing you need to prepare when the fuel in the tank of your vehicle
and few 5 gallon cans (at the time) may be all you’ll have for a while.
I prepare to survive because if things ever Schumerize I have multiple skill
sets that can help a number of people in a number of survival situations. I believe
I was created to help people, when possible. I gather info, educate, discuss
and leave food for thought for those who are unprepared, but willing to listen
and consider my views on the subject.
--
Why an I preparing? For the simple reason that I live in the middle of the
midwest. Bad winters, heavy snow, and ice storms. The rest of the year heavy
rain , floods, tornados, et cetera. You can't depend on the government to
come through
when needed, so if you don't have what you need than you are SOL!
You have to
be able to get by on what you have or fabricate something to do the job needed.
I haven't depended on the government to help and I really don't think they
have the capacity any more if ever. It will be your self and friends and
neighbors
pulling
together that will make the difference. I prepare for me and mine so that we
may be able to help others if need be. I've traveled extensively in South America,
off the beaten path, and if you don't have what you need or can fabricate
it than you should not be there. The same goes for having all your ducks
lined
up at home.
--
I'm a Jesuit educated 38 year old Bachelor, Eagle Scout, USMC Gulf War Vet,
working for a major aerospace company in Seattle. The reason I'm preparing
is I inherited
~$500K from my grandfather, who sold the family farm in California to housing
developers. He worked hard for all of us and I don't want that blessing of
wealth to be squandered. I'm preparing because being prepared is what's been
beat
into my
head since I was a kid. You can't play the "victim" card on the Four
Horsemen.
--
Why do I prepare? Probably because I read too much science fiction as a
child! Probably because surviving is so much more interesting than succumbing.
Born
in the late 1950s, I remember bomb shelter salesmen and diving under my desk
during A-bomb drills. I always assumed something, a war, or a pandemic, could
change life as I knew it. It never occurred to me not to want to survive. Both
my parents were alive during the depression, and that contributed to not taking
food/housing for granted. Perhaps my uncle, who survived Bataan, or my aunt,
who was a prisoner of war in the Philippines, might also have had something
to do with my mindset?
--
Because I believe that life is worth living, and I have no intention of
simply "biting
the dust" unless I give it the old college try. I believe that trying
and ultimately failing is far better than not trying at all.
--
Bottom line: I owe it to my family to be prepared. I could not bear to look
into their eyes as they look to me for help and have to say "Sorry."
--|
I am a preparer. Not because I'm smarter than anyone else, but because from
what I see, there just is no other choice. I do it for my family; my beloved
husband who humors me but thinks I'm slightly nuts, my grown children who love
me but roll their eyes whenever I speak about what is happening around us.
look, I don't have any college degree or any fancy smarts, no one would call
me well educated. But I can see what I can see. I read, study, research and
from my angle, we are gonna be toast and I bet my surly one eyed cat that it
will be ugly. so I plod along doing the best I can when can. I don't have
a retreat, I don't have a bunker or fallout shelter, I don't have 10 acres
or two years worth of food. But I've got God. I keep plodding on doing the
best
with what I have and I know He takes care of the rest.Will we survive the whatever
that comes? Heck if I know. But I'm a fool if
I do not give it my best shot.
--
As a man of firm Christian beliefs, I believe all our days are numbered
and have value. In those number of days we are to protect and provide for our
our
own selves, our families and so on. Examples in scripture are numerous how
people were commanded to defend their homes, their cities, their neighbors,
and their land. Unless we (like some were) are destined to go into Babylonian
captivity I see no other proper choice.
--
I am taking what steps I feel necessary to survive in a societal collapse of
infrastructure because I realize that the more intricate a system of living
becomes, the more possible facets of failure are therefore created. As the
machine known as Society grows in scale and complexity, so do the required
aspects of its function; increasing the number of things
that can go wrong, thus eventually causing a critical failure of the system.
With the statistical (and historical) inevitability staring one in the face,
how can someone not do everything within
your power to be prepared?
--
I feel its my duty to four fathers, kids, grand kids, friends, although they
are getting harder to find these days, an it just feels like the right thing
to
do,also its interesting,fun, a great learning expense,i spend hours on your
site an i want to really thank you for it. I'm sure you make money off of it
an you should, but I'll bet you are the type of person that really believe
in what you do. I love my guns an have about 25 [of them], I try to go to
the
range at least three times a week, its the most relaxing time in my life ,by
myself or with someone, I'm sure a lot of people don't understand, I love
the military
weapons a lot, I have .303s, Mausers, and others. I'm proud of my beliefs,
thanks.
--
I consider preparing my Christian duty. I'm also stocking up lots of extra
food, clothing, and so forth for charity, which is also my Christian duty.
--
Myself, I am what would be called a "millennialist" based on my
beliefs from the Bible. The majority of mankind is stupid and sinful. Thousands
of years and we are still doing the same mistakes over and over. I do not believe
in any Gene Roddenberry vision where mankind, by its own efforts, rises from
the ashes and evolves into a benevolent
a Star Trek society. Nothing sort of divine intervention will save us in the
long run from permanent self-destruction----Now aren't I a cheerful one to
invite to a social gathering?;)
Just for the record, I'm not one of those nuts that believe in trying to hasten
or encourage the Second coming The world is dong a fine job all by itself.
--
While I had read about survivalism and planning for a couple of years, the
importance of having some sort of plan didn't hit me hard until I was living
in the South, had a new baby, and [Hurricane] Katrina hit. All of a sudden
the importance of having an evacuation plan, supplies, and a known destination
to retreat
to were very important. I am not as prepared as many of the readers, but I
know
where to go and what I'll do when I get there. Also, thanks to some great books
on small farming and some great advice on here I know how to avoid some real
pitfalls.
--
I’m preparing to survive for my wife and my children, because I can
and because it gives me a feeling of confidence. I say “because I can” since
most of my acquaintances don’t have a clue of the probable upcoming changes
in society, but of those that do have a clue they can’t prepare for survival.
They can’t prepare for survival because they’re financially tapped
out by having been brainwashed into living on credit today figuring somebody
else will take care of them tomorrow, but it won’t be me.
And it drives me nuts. A 45 year old single female friend of my wife owns a
boat, owns a camper, had two vehicles, bought a scooter and recently bought
a house within the last two years. When I first started preparing for survival,
my wife made a comment to her about it and her friend said when the SHTF “we’ll
all be as snug as a bug in a rug.” I said“What do you
mean we? I think you need to make your own preparations.”
I used to try and educate our acquaintances but have started taking more of
an inquiring approach with regards to what they think are the possible upcoming
changes in society. A couple we know refinanced their house to buy a travel
trailer but they only camp within 45 minutes of their house because they can’t
afford the gas and their tow vehicle is not reliable. I asked the husband what
he thought was coming in the future, he said he figured things were going to
get pretty bad. But then they just put down a deposit on a trip to Hawaii so
I’ve got to figure you just can’t help people like this.
And it’s not that I wouldn’t help anybody, I saw value in a comment
on your web site with regards to helping neighbors and I will. (Is it okay
if I only help the ones I like?). We live in a conventional neighborhood and
I
wish we didn’t but at this point it would take too much of our resources
to move to a property with more land. So our best defense is to bond with the
good neighbors but I don’t want all our irresponsible acquaintances coming
to live with us.
We have a good life and are lucky to be able to make preparations for what
may come. And I am thankful for every additional day I have to get better prepared.
--
I am preparing to survive because I believe the threats to our way of life
are manifold. We are in a global war. China strength's grows, our borders are
not protected. Our government is shredding the constitution. Natural disasters,
environmental concerns, the basic depravity and selfishness of man--its reason
enough. I was a volunteer during [Hurricane] Katrina. Not one person who
had preps, was sorry. Many other equivalent societies in this century have
fallen,
why is
America better ? It is inevitable, one disaster will prove the wisdom of preparing.
--
1. Life is worth living.
2. I want to be around if there is any defending of this nation to be done.
3. Who said one can’t prepare and merrymake? (I guess it depends on one’s
interpretation of ‘merrymake’).
--
It's something that was raised in me. Whether it was the Boy Scout's motto
of always being prepared, or just the human instinct of survival, if I see
something
on
the horizon, I won't back down. Not to mention I get to justify spending a
lot of money on camping gear and guns, my two favorite hobbies.
--
We are trying to prepare because it is the right and responsible thing to do
for our family, friends, neighbors, and country. If we all became part of the
solution, then there would be no problem.
--
Jim, I grew up in the bomb shelter/Cold War era. A neighbor two houses down
actually dug out their front yard to install a bomb shelter. My folks had a
rudimentary bug-out bag and we always kept a month's worth of food on hand.
Hey, for the 1950s, that was progressive thinking so I guess I come by being
into preparedness naturally.
I hold advanced degrees but my education does not get in the way of exercising
common sense. It is obvious that our complex society is too interdependent
to survive major interruptions and we have numerous examples to look at (the
L.A. riots, Hurricane Katrina, and such). To believe that a major interruption
of services could not occur is delusional. The empirical evidence is right
in front of us. The family which is prepared has far fewer worries.
Do I believe we are headed for TEOTWAWKI?
Not particularly. Do I believe that we will see significant disruptions that
will affect us for 10 days or so?
Yes, definitely. Disruptions lasting to 30 days or beyond? Less likely, but
I maintain a "year's supply" nonetheless. Also, my Church has preached
being prepared for years. Our leaders have constantly cajoled us to have a
year's supply of food and other necessities and my guess is they know something
we haven't heard yet.
--
Most pundits state that human beings are constantly evolving. The point they
have ignored or can't see is that the evolvement of the human race in the last
50 years has been a deterioration, not an advancement. We survivalists are,
quite frankly, throwbacks to the pure genotype that got us to this point in
time.
--
I prepare because the end is nigh (at least TEOTWAWKI), and there will be
a lot of merry-makers who suddenly changed their minds, post-collapse. If you're
prepared and you decide the going is too rough, you can always quit,but if
you're not prepared, your options are zero. You're done. Besides, my family
is Finnish, and we're stubborn SOBs. You can always tell a Finn, just not
much...
--
I prepare to survive because I see it as part of the natural cycle of human
civilization. Something in us wants to forget the lessons of what makes us
a great society and start living on borrowed riches and capabilities. Eventually,
that living beyond our means catches up with us via a natural disaster, economic
collapse or societal conflict.
If we were not to prepare to survive then we are doomed to fail and live miserably
under the dictates of someone else. If we prepare we are not guaranteed to
have prepared for the right situation, or enough, but at least we have a much
better than average chance. In the end, I am an optimist. No matter how bad
things get they will eventually get better. We can speed up our own recovery
and that of our community’s by preparing now. If we do not, then we may
end up wallowing in misery and struggling for the barest necessities. Is that
the kind of life God wants for us? I think not. I believe God wants us to live
wisely and prepare to prosper under all conditions. That takes discipline and
short-term sacrifice.
--
Jim, your blog rocks. I only hope that I can learn and earn fast enough to
take advantage of the incredible information that your forum provides before
TEOTWAWKI.
I have a beautiful 6 month old son who is totally innocent to the ways in which
TPTB (the powers that be) are systematically destroying nature, American Democratic
principles and threatening the survival of humanity. He deserves a chance in
this life, regardless of whether or not he'll ever get to visit Sam's Club,
get a college scholarship, drive a V-8 or own an iPod.
When things start to get dicey, and as the world as we know it begins to fall
apart - most likely permanently- he will be just coming up in age and entering
what should be the most wondrous years of a child's life.
For him, and for my future children, I will fill their youthful imaginations
with nature, tools, projects, outdoor adventure and practical knowledge. Before
I let the idiot-box and America's media-driven junk-culture destroy their understanding
of their place in God's kingdom (and the animal kingdom), they will know
what to eat and how to hunt it, how to garden, how to fix stuff and how
to avoid trouble in a society that in the future will eventually fail entirely
by trying to eliminate all risk of failure here in the present.
They will be encouraged to learn practical trades: veterinary sciences, engineering,
construction, medicine and alternative medicine, martial arts, food production
and off-the-grid technology solutions.
No bankers, real-estate agents, financial analysts, politicians or computer
graphic designers in this family, Jim. No sireeee bubba.
I have always believed that those people who want to throw God's gift of life
away through risk, recklessness, attempted suicide or plain old bad lifestyle
habits are doomed to live longer.
I have also questioned since1987 when the U.S.S. Stark got hit by our"allies" escorting
black gold in the Persian Gulf how long our cheeseburger-driven, cheap-oil,
fiat-money, fake-friends and fear of loss-driven society can keep going.
Therefore I will survive this impending paradigm-shift in human existence in
order to see my children prevail into adulthood, and for my morbid curiosity
to see how all this B.S. I have put up with my entire life winds-up in the
end
of my days.
It won't be easy however. Here in Texas, not
1 in 1000 people has a clue what might be coming in the next few years. Even
after [Hurricane] Katrina pushed a not-so-golden horde of 150,000 low income
welfare dependents onto the greater Houston area. I guess that bad stuff
only happens
to others,
right?
I'll be heading for the hills soon enough I hope, and taking my brood to
a more austere, self-sufficient and remote lifestyle before Sugar Land Texas
becomes a looter's paradise.
--
At first I prepared because it was an American act of self-reliance. Now,
after all the weird looks and puzzled expressions, I get to have the biggest
'I told you so' in my lifetime.
--
Great question. Do I have an answer? Yeah a couple. Peace of mind in these
troubled times is the main one. We buy insurance for everything except peace
of mind.
Our power goes off we start our transition to alternatives without a worry.
Lights, power,shelter, water, communication ability goes on. Food is here
to be eaten fuel to use without need to purchase, cash on hand no worries.
Another reason we do what we do is because "I" feel it's my responsibility
to my family. Part of my responsibility as a husband and a father is prepare
to take care of them no matter what happens next I can't sleep knowing I
could have, but I didn't. It's a philosophy of maintaining the status quo
to then have the time and resources to help others. It's about being "ahead
of the game." It's about
life and meeting it's changes head on, never stopping head down and moving
constantly
on forward to whatever it is that is next in life.
--
My reason is: why give up? I have fought to hard in this life to just roll
over
and die.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Total Burden of State Taxes »
Letter Re: Lessons From an Unexpected Grid Down Weekend
Hi Jim,
We just had a bout with Mother Nature and lost power which appeared at first
to be for some time. I am happy to report that my “list” generated
from this un-expected “grid-down” weekend was very very very short.
I attribute this success and wonderful feeling to what I have gleaned from
your publications, SurvivalBlog, and a few very good friends! We were without
power
for about 40 hours and really only had two “needs”. I was actually “disappointed” when
the power came back on. J Oh, and we did not use the power generation until
hour 38 and were still very comfortable. The generation was only used for the
following two items.
The following were my bigger decisions that I made, or pondered-
1). Knowing this was likely a short term situation, (i.e. - 2 weeks or less)
I decided to maintain the freezers via generation.
2). Given the demands of livestock, we were considering a short-term need of
pumped water, (rather than relocate to surface water).
The situation for livestock watering led me down a path I had not thought of.
How to keep the stock tanks heated without wasting valuable fuel and without
the necessary sunlight for solar solutions, (i.e.- bad storm, no sun). Given
our outside temps, we were fortunate, but it could have been sub-zero.
In talking with my Father, he mentioned that a wood fired or corn cob fired submersible
tank heater was how they maintained open water back in the day without power.
I have searched online and so far have not found anything but a Japanese wood
fired spa/ tank heater called a CHOFU. (See www.thesolar.biz for the CHOFU and
other items. I have no affiliation with them.) What I would really like to find
is a coal fired tank heater that can last longer and be without the fumbling
of wood ignition in the raw of a storm. Does anyone have some answers on this
matter?
The storm broke off many hundreds of power poles leaving behind downed and dangerous
power lines, (which were very hard to see). This brought another valuable lesson.
A secondary exit route from our property in the event that the lines above our
drive are on the ground, (something I had not thought of).
In the mix of the storm, I helped a friend wire his furnace into his generator,
(taking all the appropriate safety measures and considering Lineman safety) in
a matter of 15 minutes. This was truly rewarding.
In my discussions with him later, we decided that we were better off having our
own private well rather than what we felt was a disadvantage of being on a “community
well”. Namely for getting water without power. In the instance we discussed,
the well only served about six homes and boasted a 5 HORSEPOWER well pump!
I
hate to think of the cost of the generator needed to power up that baby, and
the likely voltage drop in running extension cords to the location of the well
in this instance would not even be feasible.
There are positives to a community well; I am simply outlining the disadvantage
as we saw it in our situation.
As a side note, make sure that the alternative power supply to the well pump
is sufficient to not “lag” the startup of the motor. I think this
is the quick death of electronics. It is easier on the well pump to keep the
pump running than to stop and start it, keep that in mind for future reference.
I wanted to take this opportunity to say “Thank You” for the SurvivalBlog
site. I hope you find reward in another success story and hope others act on
their
intentions as well, so they may experience the peace I had during this very simple
situation. I would feel more embarrassed than I do had I not contributed to the
Ten Cent Challenge,
pre-storm! I suggest the many others who value your service contribute to the
cause. It only takes seconds, and it can save lives. (Does
that sound
like it is worth $36.50 a year???) Read it, Learn it, Buy it, Use it! - The Wanderer
« Four Letters Re: One Common Caliber for Retreat Rifles and Handguns? |Main| Note from JWR: »
Poll Results: Best Occupations for Both Before and After TEOTWAWKI
In no particular order, the following are the first batch of responses
to my poll question on the best occupations or home businesses for
both before and after TEOTWAWKI:
Locksmith/Home security systems installer/repairman
--
Beekeeping
Small scale vegetable gardening.
Growing
herbs (medicinal)
--
1) Electricity:
a. Recharge batteries for folks, rebuild the bad batteries, and lots
of folks don’t know squat about electricity for lighting, etc.
Got several methods: Solar, miscellaneous generators powered by hand,
animal, wind and even the old one lung gas engine with that darn heavy
flywheel.
b. Also use the above for communications when there aren’t cell
phones or twisted pair communications. HF, VHF, UHF and Wi-Fi.
c. Also for Wi-Fi between homes and towns if computers survive.
2) Maintain RVs and trailers with their associated systems:
furnaces, lighting, water, pumps, et al.
3) Make more Stills like the one I have and produce nerve tonic and
fuel.
4) Medical: Apply those smelly herbs I find, grow and use. Not to mention
sewing up the occasional cut and tear, set the odd bone and generally
try to avoid surgery (Ha!) Let’s not even talk about handling
boils, although that will be around too.
5) Sorta medical: Collect, cure the Knick-Knick and sell tobacco.
6) Use my HF radios to send mail to and from families far away.
7) Make leather cups for pumps when there isn’t any molded rubber
around.
--
Growing and maintaining quality heritage based [heirloom /non-hybrid]
produce for a local farmers market but also a "seed saver" program
to provide quality heritage seeds for sale or barter for future gardens.
--
Almost anything in the medical field: EMT,
Nurse, doctor
Stay at home parent
Teacher/tutor
Translator - post TEOTWAWKI, there won't be handy computer programs
to help out, and there are a lot of non-English speakers in any suburb,
let alone anything larger
Tailoring/Alterations
Chef/cook
--
1. Mechanic / bodywork man. People tend to hold onto cars and equipment
much longer during hard times, and fix up their existing vehicles instead
of buying new.
2. Handyman - Same basic idea as above. Also lots of work installing
insulation, wood stoves, energy-efficient appliances, security improvements
and of course repairing damage from natural disasters.
3. Musician - The guy who can play the guitar always seems to do okay
anywhere where people suffer. Whether it's in a prison, a starving
country torn up by civil war, or just a campfire with a bunch of tired
cowboys,
people want to be able to relax and forget about the real world for
a while.
--
Clothes and shoe manufacturing/repair
--
Dentistry/Oral Surgery
--
Make/sell small DC generators,
and use them for charging batteries for cash/barter), as
shown at The Epicenter.com
--
Health care (physician, nursing) is always good.
--
Farmer or Rancher (self-sufficient and rural)
Mechanic (keeping stuff running)
Any sort of health care provider - Doctor/Nurse/Paramedic/EMT (*the
only down-side is you may get wrapped up treating endless victims though)
Veterinarian
--
Farrier/blacksmith
--
Leatherwork. "It is a booming business for skilled leather workers
right now; people will pay ridiculously high prices for custom
made goods.
Being able to build and mend saddles, shoes, bags, belts, and all
manner of useful items is not only a handy skill to have, but there's
decent
money in it. Right now, it's more of a luxury to most people to have
leather goods custom made for them, since there are many other options
on the market for our everyday needs. But once the supply of cheap
garbage from China is cut off, and our technology is thrown back
a couple hundred years, leather will return to its place as an
essential
material. And knowing how to work with leather will be a prized skill.
As well as having the proper tools to do it."
--
Chicken raising/breeding
Bee-keeping
--
Mechanic - "An automobile or aircraft mechanic (and perhaps some
other similar crafts) has developed the skills to repair a number
of existing
devices in addition to the devices they were specifically trained
on, i.e. generator/appliance repair or gunsmithing."
--
Electrician
Blacksmith
Mechanic
--
Farm equipment repairman
Armorer
Welder
--
1. Survival skills trainer/practitioner (firearms instructor, gunsmith,
hunter/trapper, adventure guide, blacksmith, carpenter (if with manual
tools), plumber, cooper, potter, candle maker, stonemason/bricklayer,
etc.). Skills that you can use or have value in trade, and that do
not depend upon electricity are definitely the most valuable of all
occupations. Having an array of these skills is the very best.
2. Physician (especially general practice, surgeon, or OB-GYN)
3. Farmer/rancher
4. EMT, RN,
midwife
5. Survival supplies dealer
6. Engineer (mechanical, electrical, civil, metallurgical/materials)
- if practically oriented and skilled outside of the computer, and not management.
7. Electrician (power generation & distribution, communication
8. Army, Marine, or SpecOps military officer below rank of General
(for both hard skills and leadership)
9. Engine repair / mechanic / machinist
10. Teacher
11. Lawyer (just kidding!)
--
Nurseryman with perennial food plants- berries, fruits, herbs,
rhubarb, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, etc.
--
Solar power technology business
« Letter Re: Survival Retreat Potential of Northwest Florida |Main| Notes From JWR: »
Letter Re: Yet Another Article Touting "Mobility" for Survival
Dear Jim:
See this piece on Survival Preparedness as: "The
Ultimate "Contrarian" Investment
for 2007 -- Be Prepared" The author knows a lot about economics
(excellent web site), but one can certainly critique his "Batman
in the Boondocks" or "mobile
refugee" survival strategy. Regards, - OSOM
JWR Replies: I'm dismayed to see such strategies
proposed again and again, usually by folks who have never actually
attempted to fill--much less actually shoulder--their "everything
that I'll need"
backpack.
It is incredibly naive to think that anyone can "head
for the hills"
with just what you can carry, and survive for an extended period. Note
that his overly simplistic "carry heirloom seeds and blue poly
tarp"
approach does not take into account anything about tools needed to
cultivate what he'll
grow,
containers
he'll
need
to store
what he grows or gathers, and tools/pots/pans that he'll need to
process/grind and cook what he hunts, gathers, or grows. Nor does
it address basics like cages
for small livestock,
or fencing to protect gardens. How can you expect to carry all
that on
your back? Unless someone is incredibly fortunate, the odds are that
any "mobile" retreating
approach will very quickly reduce them to the category of "refugee" at
best, or to room temperature, at worst. The history of the previous
century --particularly its two world wars and
its countless
civil wars--taught us that life is, as Hobbes put it, "solitary, poor, nasty, brutish and short" for
refugees. The last thing that you want to be is a refugee.
By definition, going mobile means foregoing the "deep larder" advantage
of a fixed retreat. It would be foolish to give that up. Ditto for
the often touted "RV land-mobile retreating" approach. As
I've stated before: In a full scale WTSHTF situation, mobility
for the sake of mobility in essence only gives you the opportunity
to wander into ambush after ambush. I go into further
detail about the fallacies of mobile retreating strategies (backpack,
vehicular,
and sailboat) in in my book "Rawles
on Retreats and Relocation." In the same book I also describe
some commonsense
fixed
location retreat alternatives
All of the preceding is not to say that you shouldn't own a Get Out
of Dodge ("GOOD") backpack. You should have
one, especially if you don't live year round at your intended
retreat. (The pack is only intended for a very short period, to
get you to your retreat, in the event that for whatever
reason a vehicle is not available.) You
should dread ever having to use
that pack when
forced to abandon your well-stocked retreat and taking off on foot
to fend
for yourself.
« Letter Re: Backup Generators and Well Pumps |Main| Three Letters Re: Survivalist Matchmaking? »
Letter Re: Chlorine Bleach and Its Uses
Jim,
Chlorine bleach is a great multi-use item to store. It can be used to
treat water, disinfect/clean, deodorize latrines, and probably lots of other
things. Here are some quick numbers:
Water purification:
16
drops (1/8tsp) per gallon/4 liters. Let stand for 15 minutes, retreat
if water does not smell of Chlorine.
CDC recommends
a fresh 1:10 to 1:100 solution for cleaning
up blood spills
FEMA recommends
8oz of bleach to 5 gallons of water for killing mold and 4 oz to 5 gallons
for disinfecting
flood-contaminated articles:
(That's 125ml / 20liters and 250ml / 20 liters for metric
folks)
Bleach does have some problems - it has a limited shelf life (6 months to 2
year depending on who you ask). It's also messy and nasty to clean up
if spilled.
Taking a trip to Costco today, I discovered that they have Calcium Hypochlorite
pool shock in stock. This chemical may be used to make your own
bleach solution. (See the EPA
Web site.)
Add and dissolve one heaping teaspoon of high-test granular calcium hypochlorite
(approximately 1/4 ounce) for each two gallons of water. The mixture will
produce a stock chlorine solution of approximately 500 mg/L, since the calcium
hypochlorite has an available chlorine equal to 70 percent of its weight.
To disinfect water, add the chlorine solution in the ratio of one part of chlorine
solution to each 100 parts of water to be treated. This is roughly equal
to adding 1 pint (16 oz.) of stock chlorine to each 12.5 gallons of water to
be disinfected.
To remove any objectionable chlorine odor, aerate the water as described above.
In metric, you need to mix in approximately 7.5ml of powder (by volume) for
every 8 liters to get a 5% bleach solution.
In short, 1 kilogram of pool shock can be mixed to make almost 1,400
liters of standard bleach solution. [Which is enough to treat
many thousands of gallons of water!] A one-pound box makes just under
165 gallons.
You must be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to get the pool shock that only contains Calcium
Chlorite. The other types of Chlorine, Tri-Chlor and Di-Chlor are not
suitable for this. Be advised that this stuff is a powerful oxidizer, and should
be stored in dry container, sealed away from moisture. It can also catch
fire violently if put in contact with brake fluid and similar substances, so
be careful. But the increased shelf life and mess-free storage, in my
opinion, outweigh any negatives. - JN
JWR Replies: I concur wholeheartedly that bleach is important
to store for family preparedness. One important proviso: You want to buy only plain bleach--not
bleach with scent or any other additives that could be poisonous. Be sure to
check the label before buying liquid bleach. It must have ONE, AND ONLY
ONE ingredient: Calcium
Hypochlorite!
« Two Letters Re: NiMH Batteries |Main| Letter Re: Canadian Source for Long Term Storage Food? »
Letter Re: Making Farm Field Water Runoff Water Drinkable
James:
I've considered as an emergency water supply the steady runoff from
the cornfield behind us. It's always at least a steady trickle even in the
driest
part of
summer. Will a Katadyn filter or similar remove pesticides or other chemicals
from it? Or should I plan on a small water still? - Mike
JWR Replies: If working with field runoff, first use
a pre-filter to remove sediment. Just a couple of thicknesses of T-shirts
over
a five gallon
bucket works fine as a pre-filter. Using pre-filtered water will greatly extend
the life of your primary filter. Next, to filter out the majority of herbicides
and
pesticides, you should use
a two-stage
filter such
as a
Katadyn
Combi Plus
filter. These
are available from a variety of Internet mail order vendors, such as Dom's
Outfitters. However, keep in mind that if runoff water ever become the
your main supply of water in an extended disaster situation, no
filter system is 100% effective at removing herbicides and
pesticides. For that, you would need either a distillation or reverse osmosis
system, which are far more complex and have large power requirements.
« Jim's Quote of the Day: |Main| Letter Re: Advantages and Disadvantages of New Zealand »
Letter Re: Alternate Short Term Sources for Drinking Water
Jim,
An inexpensive way to store a couple hundred gallons of water is simply
in install an extra water heater. Electrics are cheap (a couple bucks
a gallon), and don’t even need to be electrically connected.
The fresh water continually flows through, and can be drained down
for short-term needs during an interruption. If installing in new
construction, it’s even easier, and an
electrical connection means that you have hot water in the event
of a natural gas interruption.
Plumbing and valving should ensure that the tank can be gravity drained,
and that either heater may be taken out of the loop as needed. Joel
Skousen's book The Secure Home is a good reference for a practical
plumbing/valve
layout for this sort of installation. - Mr. Bravo