Jim:
I'm sure this subject has been well covered before, but I will interject my thoughts.

I ride a lightweight dual sport motorcycle in Colorado and personally believe it is an excellent tool for everyday use, and even more so in rough circumstances. 

If we look around the world at less developed countries and areas without much infrastructure the use of motorcycles and scooters is very prevalent. This is due in part to the relatively low initial purchase cost compared to conventional cars, fuel efficiency, ease of maintenance, and flexibility of use. I also often look to my experiences in Afghanistan for a real life example of what a declining and rough world might look like, and there are many valuable lessons to be learned from places like that. In Afghanistan small displacement motorcycles are very common. They often provided families a sole means of transportation over long distances to sell goods in larger towns, take family members to distant doctors, etc. I have seen no less than an entire family of 4 on a single low displacement (125-250cc) motorcycle, which is not ideal, but really shows the flexibility of use. The vast majority of roads in Afghanistan are not maintained and in very poor condition. Traveling in a 4-wheeled vehicle is painfully bumpy and slow, and quickly destroys suspensions. A motorcycle has the distinct advantage of being able to go around potholes and bumps, and still maintain a good rate of speed. Motorcycle are also able to travel on narrow footpaths that can take you over terrain that would be impossible for a conventional 4-wheeled vehicle to navigate. Gasoline in Afghanistan is somewhat limited and costly, but is still a commodity in nearly every little town or village no matter the size. A motorcycle that gets 50+ MPG is an obvious choice if you expect to have limited supplies of fuel. 

To directly address the author's pro and con list:

1)  Bypass traffic jams and stalled/out of commission cars: This a great advantage of motorcycles. They are very maneuverable. Aside from boulder fields, and sheer rock faces, there's pretty much no limit to where you can take a motorcycle. Especially in Colorado with the large number of bike paths, hiking trails, forests roads, and jeep trails.
 
2)  Saddle-bags can carry a lot more than than a human: Properly set up you can easily carry 100-200lbs+ (45kg-90kg) with a good quality saddlebag system. Although large bags will lower your MPG to a certain extent. 

3)  Much faster than on-foot bugout: There's a reason people have ridden horses for thousands of years. Speed is good.

4)  Handles off-road with suitable tires: A lightweight dual sport bike with good suspension and knobby tires can take you through roads, fields, and forests without a second thought.

5)  Fewer people could drive it compared to a car, so lower theft risk: If someone is in the business of stealing, they will know how to take your motorcycle. In fact motorcycle theft is pretty high because they can easily be thrown in the back of a truck or van in a matter of second and are gone. Happens all the time. Here's where you can use size to your advantage and store the motorcycle inside your home. Most motorcycles will easily fit through a doorway.

6)  Small profile makes it hard to shoot: True, but also provides no protection. The speed and agility of a motorcycle would be more of a factor than size alone.

7)  More maneuverable than a car, harder target to shoot: See above

8)  Very fuel efficient: A 250cc bike will get 60-80 MPG, with larger displacement engines getting anywhere from 30-50 MPG. The ability to travel long distances with a few gallons of gas is a huge benefit, not only in terms of supply, but cost.

9)  Can add a trailer for added hauling capacity, limited by bug-out route terrain: A good trailer can easily double or triple your weight capacity. Great for long distance moves or simply packing out field dressed game.
 
Cons:
1)  Zero protection - rider at high risk: See above

2)  Easy to stop or slow down with chains, cables, fences, etc: Yes, it's more susceptible to being stopped by a guillotine cable, but the odds of that happening are also extremely slim. That falls more into having situational awareness and not getting yourself ambushed. If it's just a wire fence or chained off area, a motorcycle can easily be laid on it's side and dragged under the obstacle. 

3)  Can't carry loads of supplies: Simple and light is key! The more you know, the less you need. Early American trappers, hunters and mountain men thrived with much less than most of us probably have.

4)  Gas-powered, not diesel. [With a very few exceptions.]: Playing the odds, you will probably be able to find gasoline even during pretty bad conditions. It may be expensive or in short supply, but it should still be around. If gasoline supply dries up on a global level, you're out of luck anyway, and would probably be using a very expendable supply should you have any stored up, even if it is diesel. 

5)  Difficult to operate when injured: Yes, they are more difficult to run if you're hurt, but you'd have to be pretty bad off. I don't think the odds of that happening are high enough to be a game changer and deem a motorcycle unpractical. 

6)  Limited personnel transport capability: If you have a family of 5 you're trying to move hundreds of miles all at the same time, you're not going to use a motorcycle. For short distance runs you can always make multiple trips if you had to.

7)  Some models headlights are "always on" which is a visibility problem unless you install a secondary switch: True, most headlights are always on, but a switch is easy to install.

8)  Spare parts may be hard to find: If we have a slow downturn where gasoline prices skyrocket, I have a feeling the motorcycle/scooter business will boom, and we'll look like Asia or India with streets packed with them, which means parts will be readily available. The engines on most motorcycles are extremely simple, and most parts could be fabricated easily with anyone with some metal working skills. There are definitely parts that can't easily be made (spark plugs, computers, etc) but they are also inexpensive and easy to have spares on hand. 

This leads me to motorcycle selection. If you decide a motorcycle will be a good fit for you, what should you buy?

It's the common consensus that a dual sport motorcycle is the most practical style. They handle on-road and off-road conditions equally well, and are built for durability and longevity.

I am an advocate for 250cc displacement motorcycles because they generally are light enough to maneuver in rough conditions, yet still have enough power to haul you and your gear at 60+ MPH. There are 125cc-400cc bikes that could also fit the bill, but the market has a wide variety of 250cc class bikes readily available. A lot will come down to what features you want on your motorcycle. Air cooled, liquid cooled, carburetor, fuel-injected, etc. There's a lot to be said for simple air-cooled carburetor engines, but if you're willing to play the odds that you'll never run into an EMP or something, a liquid cooled fuel injected motorcycle can be a low maintenance and high performance option that is a pleasure to ride.

This is anything but an exhaustive list but it's a good place to start looking:

Yamaha WR250R 
Honda CR250L 
Kawasaki KLX250S
Honda CRF230L
Yamaha XT250
Yamaha TW200
Suzuki DR200
Kawasaki KLR250

Regards, - S.L.

 

 
Jim:
Re: Motorcycles as BOVs? I have been riding motorcycles for most of my life, and currently I have both street bikes and a dual sport. I do most of my riding on the street, which is a lot of fun, when you are not in rush hour traffic, and it can be very economical. (Good gas mileage, low insurance, low up front cost at least compared to a car or truck) The street bike I own is a cruiser, I shy away from the sport bikes mostly because of the seating position and the temptation to go fast. My days of wanting to drive fast are long gone. I ride because I enjoy it. I can't really explain the joys of riding to you; you just have to try it. Anyway, that is not why I am writing.
 
The question was raised about using a motorcycle as a BOV. In my humble opinion (IMHO) a motorcycle would make an okay BOV for a single person, you are just limited on what you can carry. Any more than one person and a motorcycle makes a poor choice unless of course you have two motorcycles and each person can ride one. If you go with two motorcycles and one motorcycle breaks down, you can both ride on one bike, so with two motorcycles you would have some redudancy.Two is one and one is zero. So in that sense you would have a backup. But, IMHO, I think a 4x4 would make a much better BOV. I happen to have an E250 as a BOV, but that is because I have a wife, 4 kids and a lot of stuff. Also, bugging out for me is my last option, I plan on riding out the storm where I am.  I know prudence might be on the side of getting out of Dodge now, but that is just not a good option for me right now for many reasons. So why write this at all, well I love motorcycling and I think there are other values associated with motorcycles.
 
So, if a motorcycle does not make a good BOV, is it useful for more than just riding? I say that it is.

What I am going to talk about can really be done with almost any motorcycle, but I am going to concentrate on one motorcycle, the Kawasaki KLR650 dual sport. I did a lot of research and have read a lot of articles and reviews over two years before I purchased the KLR650. I think that the KLR650 is the best bang for the buck motorcycle you can buy. The KLR650 has remained pretty much the same for over 20 years and has a huge following. Two of the reasons I chose the KLR was because of the availability of parts and aftermarket accessories and the fact that the KLR is relatively easy to work on yourself.  It is a very simple motorcycle; single cylinder, carbureted, chain drive. I will not go into all the details of maintenance and adding accessories to the KLR, there are many YouTube videos on maintenance, repairs and upgrades. There are also web sites dedicated just to the KLR. Do a Google search and you will find more than you will ever need. The KLR is not a fast motorcycle and does not excel at any one thing, but it is good at a lot of things. The KLR makes a great commuter motorcycle, it gets over 50 mpg and is tall which helps in traffic. It has a 35 inch seat height, which will be high for some, but the suspension compresses when you sit on it. The KLR also has a 6 gal gas tank which gives you about a 300 mile range on a tank of gas, that’s a lot of off road riding between fill ups. The KLR makes a great trail bike, but it is heavy if you want to just ride in the dirt. So, the KLR is best on the street but will go off road when you need it to. The KLR can also be an adventure touring motorcycle, it has been ridden all over the world.  It is not great at speeds over 75, but if you don’t mind taking your time, the KLR is a great motorcycle.
 
So now onto where I think the motorcycle shines when things fall apart (SHTF). The area where I live has just been rated the worst traffic in the country, yes we passed LA. A little rain, or a little snow and traffic gets ridiculous. And if there is an accident you can add hours to your commute. As bad as traffic can get I am honestly surprised that more municipalities don’t utilize motorcycles for first responders, but that is a different issue. We all know what will happen when the SHTF for real. All roads will become parking lots. For most people travel will be limited to walking, bicycles and motorcycles. But in this scenario the motorcycle has the definite advantage. With motorcycles you can avoid paved roads and go places that most vehicles cannot go.  You can also provide assistance to others who do not have any other means of transportation. There will be no ambulance service and if it is safe for you to do so you can assist local emergency services.  So if you have a motorcycle you will be able to travel at least for a while. The first few days of when the SHTF can also be used to pick up family and friends who are stranded far from home. This should really be your first priority if you plan on doing this because I do believe that the timeframe for safe travel will be very short lived.

This brings up the issue of protection on a motorcycle. While it is true that a car provides better protection from the elements, crowds, hard objects…  there are ways to protect yourself and in some situations be better protected than a vehicle. When I ride, I ride in full gear; boots, gloves, jacket, full face helmet. That is just my normal riding protection. I cringe whenever I see someone ride with shorts, T-shirt and flip flops. One fall, even at slow speeds, will ruin your day.  But what about protection from non-riding incidents. Once the SHTF you are on your own and if you run into a crowd or group wishing to do you harm, getting out fast is your best bet. The motorcycle will help you do that. But what if you are caught by surprise or caught by a group intent on harm and you are unable to drive out for whatever reason. If you are in a vehicle and stuck you have no other protection once the vehicle has been compromised. If you are on a motorcycle and wearing protective gear, your head and body have an extra layer of protection from rocks, clubs, fists, feet and you may be able to escape on foot. Anything to improve your chances will help. One extra layer of protection that I recently purchased is the Stryker Vest by Icon. It is chest and back protection in case of an accident, but it is also great protection from anything striking your back or chest. And even if you are knocked to the ground you will be like an armadillo. No, it will not stop a bullet, but it will lessen the blow from any hard objects. The idea is not to fight but to flee. Take the first chance you have to run. As to other obstacles; fences, down trees, large rocks obviously these need to be avoided as well as crowds. Avoiding roads and riding through neighborhood back yards can be filled with lots of nasty obstacles. Be careful and be aware of your surroundings. And it would be best to ride during the day unless you really know the area.
 
Depending on the event and how bad things get and for how long, a motorcycle can be a real force multiplier. When most other vehicle are unusable due to any number of reasons, the motorcycle can be very useful during the situation. There are many roles the motorcycle can play. Motorcycles can be used for scouting, communications, patrolling, foraging, hunting, transporting …. They will not take a lot of precious supplies to operate. I believe the advantages far outweigh any use of supplies. If you are preparing for all situations, a motorcycle would be a good addition to your preparations after water, food, weapons and medical supplies.
 
One more thing to consider and that is how to earn a living after the SHTF, at least until things come back (Which could be years)
-          Goods will need to be transported, your customers may not always be within walking distance, getting paid to transport goods and services is not a bad way to make a living.
-          People will need medical help, whether you ferry a medical person around or bring people to a medical facility, you should be paid to do so. I am not saying there won’t be times to help others, but you also need to provide for you and your family.
-          Communities will need security. Being mobile will be a big advantage for anyone providing security.
-          Communication. This really depends on how bad things get and if you can spare the fuel for communications. But people will want to communicate with family, friends… Instead of Pony express it would be motorcycle express. (I believe this was the case in the novel “Patriots”)
 
One other advantage to motorcycling is that it will make you a better driver. Because I ride I am aware of what is going on around me, will a driver suddenly pull out in front of me or pull into my lane, what is the road surface like in front of me, will a child suddenly appear from behind a parked car.  When you ride you are constantly on alert, I think this has been lost in our cars with GPS, phones, CD and DVD players and other people in the vehicle. On a motorcycle, it is just you and your thoughts, that is why I don’t have a headset in my helmet, even though my wife would really like to talk when the two of us ride. I try and keep distractions at a minimum and yes I still enjoy the ride.
 
On final note, just like any other skills you have, you should take some training classes. I have taken the ERC (experienced rider class) in my state for street riding and I have also taken an off road class to improve my riding in the dirt. Both classes were well worth the time. The dirt class was on a BMW R1200GS. It is a great motorcycle with endless power but it is very heavy and costs about four times what the KLR costs. For the money, I just don’t think you can beat the KLR.
 

One final note, just like any other skills you have, you should take some training classes. I have taken the ERC (experienced rider class) in my state for street riding and I have also taken an off road class to improve my riding in the dirt. Both classes were well worth the time. The dirt class was on a BMW R1200GS. It is a great motorcycle with endless power but it is very heavy and costs about four times what the KLR costs. For the money, I just don’t think you can beat the KLR. - Marty S.

 

Hi Jim,
Saturday’s responses [on G.O.O.D. motorcycles] were great!
 
My current pre-collapse and collapse bike is my customized KLR 650, modified with micro-sized turn signals for a smaller physical profile. Along with that, the bike has been re-painted in flat sand, with OD painted grip guards. I use a Condor-brand, tactical MOLLE tote bag as a handlebar bag, with my registration, insurance info, spider bungee net for the cargo rack, etc.
 
One thing people may not be aware of is that the cargo rack on the civilian KLR 650 still conforms to the inner diameter of the good old G.I. ALICE pack’s aluminum frame. Recon troops / messengers would normally just slide their rucks onto their bike’s frame, secure it, then take off! Being an old ALICE kind of guy, this is great, as I’ve put the bike to the test, carrying thousands of rounds of ammo to/from gun shows, etc.
 
However, 2007 was the last good year for the bike in many people's opinion, as unnecessary junk was later added to the bike, such as dual front disk brakes, and flashy colors, a different headlight cowling, etc.
 
My post-collapse bike is a mothballed TW 200, with a battery in dry storage. Also, all identified solid state components (two of them, one being a voltage rectifier) have been pulled, and are protected in a food-grade Mylar bag, inside of an old all-metal schoolteachers’ desk. With a modified rear sprocket, made of aircraft-grade aluminum and titanium (40 tooth), I get mileage of around 90 mpg, along with a top speed of 80 mph. It can carry a passenger, as well as cargo, and, even better, it is so relatively light weight,  that two people can physically pick it up, and put it in the back of a pickup, to use as a parasitic recon vehicle, for instance.
 
Also, the company Moose Racing makes awesome cargo carrying accessories for the TW 200.
 
Cheers, - Joe Snuffy

James;
I too have consider the motorcycle-for-TEOTWAWKI option. E.M.P. covered the pros and cons pretty well and I can add just a couple of thoughts. I have a family, which means while there are a number of possible TEOTWAWKI uses for a motorcycle, actually bugging out isn't one of them. This is obviously viable only for the single, unencumbered prepper. But I can see other, perhaps invaluable uses.

A [high field strength EMP event - A motorcycle is small enough that it could actually be kept stored in a protected enclosure. Or failing that, it would be far easier to keep a spare ignition module in a protected enclosure for quick swapping out versus dealing with similar repairs to a car or truck. I live in a suburban environment and the ability to quickly retrieve a child from school or a spouse from work at the outset before things had a chance to start to come unhinged would be priceless.

Fuel shortage - Any scenario where fuel is hard to get or priced beyond reason would make the economy of these bikes shine. The leading candidate, the Kawasaki KLR650, gets in the neighborhood of 50 mpg and would make the most of any available fuel in any circumstance where a bike could get the job done. The maneuverability and on/off road capability would also be priceless in avoiding crowds, traffic jams, etc.

There are other terrific choices in the dual sport category, but most run almost twice the cost of the legendary KLR. It's shortcomings are few, most notably being slightly underpowered [versus large displacement road bikes], but they can haul a tremendous amount of gear, and have been ridden from one end of the planet to the other. Their utility serves well in good times and bad, with the normal caveats about safety of course.

There have been some diesel versions built for the military, and while there have always been rumors, even recently, a civilian version is sadly still just rumor. What an awesome bike that would be!

The limitations are so substantial that I cannot condone it as your only option in place of another vehicle, but if you have the means to have one around as an option it might pay big dividends.

God bless, - Arizona Slim

 

Jim,
As a former off road racer,I'd like to add my nickel here. First and foremost,all bikes are NOT created equal! You won't bug out on a Harley, I promise !If the roads are congested,you can ride on the shoulder, until a broken down car blocks the way ,then you have to off road...not even an idea on a Harley or big road bike!

Second point: 2 stroke or 4 stroke? Do you know the difference? If not, do not get a bike, period! A 2 stroke is a lot faster and lighter ,but gets lousy mileage. My 500 2 stroke race bike got around 8 mpg in a good race, maybe 5 in deep sand. A 500 4 stroke could do 30 mpg in the same race, easy.

Third point: Can everyone in your party ride? My ex-wife can twist a throttle, but can she handle sand? Nope.

Fourth point: Got parts? Sure,you can buy one of the cheap auto part store bikes,but try to find parts for it...been there, done that, no you can't. Stick to a brand name.You will never find Husqvarna or KTM parts, either.

My recommendation is: Buy a 200cc or perhaps 250cc, 4-stroke dual purpose. Strip the turn signals off, just keep it barely street legal, to save weight.Find any type saddle bags you can find on the seat,even horse bags! And they make packs that fit on the tank.Hang a pack on the bars over the headlite.Keep the weight as low as possible,or it will wash out in a turn.

An interesting side note: My parents had a little Honda Express, barely a step up from a moped.They were camped out in a forest where they didn't allow me to ride my 500 Husqvarna. I took the little Honda for a ride down some little goat trails, and with a little practice, I was doing things on it that I'd never try on my race bike! A lot slower, but it amazed me how far and how many places it got me!

Hi James,
After seeing and living through the nightmarish traffic jams and rerouting during the Colorado wildfire last summer, I started thinking about the wisdom and utility of having a motorcycle in SHTF scenarios.
 
There are pros and cons to it that I can think of, but I'd like other's opinions.  An off-the-top of my head list:
 
Pros:
1)  Bypass traffic jams and stalled/out of commission cars.
2)  Saddle-bags can carry a lot more than than a human
3)  Much faster than on-foot bugout.
4)  Handles off-road with suitable tires
5)  Fewer people could drive it compared to a car, so lower theft risk
6)  Small profile makes it hard to shoot
7)  More maneuverable than a car, harder target to shoot
8)  Very fuel efficient
9)  Can add a trailer for added hauling capacity, limited by bug-out route terrain
 
Cons:
1)  Zero protection - rider at high risk
2)  Easy to stop or slow down with chains, cables, fences, etc.
3)  Can't carry loads of supplies
4)  Gas-powered, not diesel. [With a very few exceptions.]
5)  Difficult to operate when injured
6)  Limited personnel transport capability
7)  Some models headlights are "always on" which is a visibility problem unless you install a secondary switch.
8)  Spare parts may be hard to find
 
I'm considering trading a diesel sedan I have for one of these, but would love to hear what other people think.
 
Thanks for your noble work, - E.M.P.

JWR Replies: This has been briefly discussed before in the blog. The general consensus was to buy a fairly quiet dual sport bike with as much cargo capacity as possible. But I welcome additional input.

I received the following from an embedded mil-blogger friend.  His personal information has been redacted:

Sir, 
If I may, I would like to share some information with you.  Some is based on personal experience, and some comes from experts I know and trust.  What you do with this is up to you, but I wanted you to have it to think about just in case.  

First, I can commend an I-phone app (should be available for other platforms as well) that the Army had suggested to me called IED Aware.  It is actually pretty much the basic Army awareness course (pre-deployment) done as an app.  Maker is ForceReadiness.com, that does other education and training apps as well.  Not sure if it is free or not, but quite a few of the study apps are.  

Something I can share with you based on experience is that situational awareness is the key.  But, not just in trying to spot something -- you need it to be prepared for realistic options.  

Visually and otherwise scout your AO immediately.  You are not just looking for potential IED sites, you need to get an idea of cover options.  Concealment is NOT cover.  Things that can hide you from view are concealment, not cover.  Cover is something that can protect you from bullets, blast, and fragments.  Cover is concrete, it is thick metal as in armor or even the engine block of a car, it is a ditch, a culvert, or other thing that can stop/deflect incoming.  And, yes, cover can help deflect a blast wave, as they are strange creatures that can and do bounce, deflect, and reflect.  Buy me a beer and I will tell you of one (non-IED generated) I know first-hand caused a relocation of a wall without breaking a pane of glass in that glass wall.  

You need to know cover not just for yourself, but if something happens you need to be able to direct people away using as much of that cover as realistically possible.  So, scout, plan, and plan options so that you do not have to think about things if something happens, but can assess and be proactive in an emergency.  Having to stop and think can and does get people killed.  Plan ahead. 

Then, scan the area thinking of where an IED can be easily concealed (trash can, paper bin, etc.) and check those for anything suspicious.  It looks suspicious, call out and call in.  Clear the area, and hunker down in a place that gives you as much cover as possible yet still allows you to control the cleared area to keep idiots and others from wandering in.  

If the area is clear, scan for distance markers.  One of the most common currently is a plastic grocery bag tied to a branch or otherwise secured; but, the key is to look for something out of place and or a series of things that also happen to be a uniform distance apart.  Just as we use distance and aiming stakes, so to does the enemy.  While it is often that such a bag or other signal marks the spot of the IED, it can also be a trigger point so that a vehicle or group moving at a steady speed will be in the blast zone if the remote detonator is triggered as they pass that point.  Using this method, someone can be at home or a nearby bar watching an event on television and know when to dial the phone or press the button.  If you see something that could be a distance/location marker, call out and call it in.  If that marker is near a culvert or sewer line under the street, it needs to be checked out immediately.  Admittedly, IEDs in such are mostly for vehicles, but… 

It is doubtful that most terrorists would try to bury anything, but do keep an eye out for a freshly plowed or dug flower bed or such, just in case.  

Watch for suspicious behavior.  Someone moving a bit too nonchalantly, exceedingly nervous, obviously drunk or on drugs with a coat or such over themselves (amazing how many suicide bombers have to have chemical enhancement to do the job), or someone who may or may not be praying but has a look on their face and/or in their eyes that really can't be described other than to say that when you see it, you know it.  They will usually move confidently and force their way towards their destination no matter what, and one hand is usually at their side or in a pocket.  It's not just someone moving in quickly, dropping a backpack or other container and then moving away, it is a host and range of behaviors that don't fit the norm.  If you spot someone like this, don't approach if at all possible, but here stay calm, talk normally and call in and have LE come and intercept the person.  

If an IED goes off, take cover.  If possible, choose cover that provides overhead cover as well.  Roll under a vehicle, concrete bench, etc.  If there is no cover, go flat:  shrapnel tends to go out in a cone, and if you can get under the cone, all you have to deal with immediately is blast effect.  Quite a few wounds in Iraq and Afghanistan from incoming happen because people kept trying to run to a duck and cover or other shelter, instead of going flat.  You hear blast, or get an incoming warning, you go flat if you can't make shelter in about five seconds.  

Keep in mind that immediate shrapnel is only part of the issue:  blasts like that tend to toss things in the air, sometimes substantial things.  That's why if you can get to cover that provides overhead cover, you should.  Keep in mind that in Boston, parts of the bomb were found on a rooftop some ten stories up.  Debris can be coming down for up to a minute after a blast.  If there is no cover, after the initial blast front and shrapnel wave has passed, you go turtle (legs and arm under you, head back so your helmet goes over back armor as much as possible) or squat with your feet flat, knees to chest, back to blast, and hands over head so that you make the smallest possible area from a vertical perspective.  

Next, know that there are likely to be more explosions, as various online manuals (and generally smart terrorists) will do secondaries or even tertiaries to get first responders.  You will have seconds to a couple of minutes to regroup, try to get people moving in a safe direction, and get set for the next blast.  Use it well.  

For any form of IED, tourniquets are essential.  In Boston, we saw a lot of improvised and it is likely that we will have to do so at need as most IGR do not have combat tourniquets.  People are going to be screaming, there's going to be blood and debris, and triage needs to be with traumatic amputations first and foremost.  If a limb is gone, or just about gone, get the tourniquet on as low as possible on the limb and as quickly as possible.  Then worry about shrapnel wounds.  Know that if they follow standard doctrine, bleeding is going to worse because the shrapnel was coated with rat poison, warfarin, which is known medically as Coumadin.  It is an anti-coagulant, and the idea is to get as much as possible into the wound to make the victim bleed out.  

Now, to something I put last because it is against most current doctrine.

One thing that is not to the liking of academics and other rear-echelon types is that you want to see if there is a dump point in your immediate AO.  A dump point is something that will reduce blast effects and shrapnel.  Good foxholes have a grenade sump for this, when you are on foot or at an event, you don't have that but you do have other options.  Keep in mind that blast waves, no matter how powerful, like to follow the path of least resistance as much as possible.  You want to spot a dump point in advance because sometimes you roll snake eyes don't have a lot of options.  A dump point can be a concrete road barrier, a dumpster, a sewer opening, or anything that gives thicker sides and no top or a weak top.  You dump an IED into such, it will be destroyed, but most of the blast and shrapnel is likely to go up, not out; and, what does go out will not go out as far.  

Two quick scenarios under this heading.  First, someone drops a bag of some type nearby and takes off running.  If they do that, things are out of control on both sides and your options are very limited.  If they have dropped it, and there is no boom, the odds of it having any form of movement trigger are slim to none.  If they are running, they are panicked and no longer thinking and can trigger immediately or even forget to do so.  If it is a timed bomb, then they may be running because time is running out -- but you have time to think and act.  Right then, you have to make a choice.  

First thing you do, is get people to get down and/or move away as quickly as possible, because even if it is someone playing a "joke" on security, you have to treat it as real.  If you are that close, there are few realistic options for survival unless you have a dump point planned.  Get the bag to the dump point, then try to get people and yourself away if no immediate boom, and do so as low as possible.  If you hear any noise from the direction of the bag, go flat.  You can't help anyone if you are dead.  The second scenario is a suicide bomber near/next to you.  Your only viable option is to try to control them, get them into the dump point, and try to get away.  Odds are you won't, but you are pretty much out of options at that point anyway.  If you are within about 15 feet of either, odds are that you are going to die, the only difference being how many die with you. - X.

- Michael Z. Williamson (SurvivalBlog Editor at Large)

Jim:
Thanks again for the recent posting on my piece: Local Food and Energy from Top Lit Up Draft Micro-Gasification Stove. That was much appreciated!

Are you tracking woodgas powered vehicles?

You may have heard of it from WWII stories and FEMA manual.

The old systems worked in emergencies, but were not really practical for long term use.

Wayne Keith has a new book just out on practical applications, Have Wood Will Travel. In it are detailed instructions for building, operating, and maintaining a modern woodgas powered vehicle.

Wayne has tinkered his way into the first system that is practical (in areas with abundant wood or stemmy biomass) for modern fuel injected engines. It works okay in carbureted engines as well. He has been driving all over the US on wood power for almost 8 years now. Longest single trip, 7,000 miles, also holds the LSR for wood power at just under 80 mph. I have ridden with him at higher speeds, but in his first trip to Bonneville he mostly just learned a lot about the protocols. He can go a lot faster.

Auburn University did a study on his design running on gasoline and wood. His 318 Dodge Dakota gets better BTU-to-energy conversion from wood than from gasoline.

I will have a copy sent to one of your reviewers, if you will give me a mailing address.

When I joined the Driveonwood.com forum a little over a year ago, when there were 8 subscribers. Today there are over 1400. Their web site has the largest collection of woodgas info on the web. Woodgas has its addicts, I am one of them. I have an old farm truck, a 1984 F-250 with a 460 cubic inch motor that runs great on wood. I have a gooseneck hitch in it, because it has enough power to pull a trailer.

Seeing is believing, and I no longer believe the PhD-spouted myths about woodgas not having enough power to do useful work. The engine, originally built to run on high octane, sounds better running on woodgas than on any modern grade of pump petroleum.

For off grid electrical power generation, the wind doesn't always blow, the sun doesn't always shine, but smoke always rises.

Dear JWR:
You don't always need a snow plow to to free up the streets in a snow-bound neighborhood. I found a video that shows a U.S. military surplus M35 2-1/2 Ton ("Deuce and a Half") truck being used to pack down snow. - Solar Guy

 

Mr. Rawles,
We in dry Central Texas are having the opposite problem from your "Snowmageddon" contributors: Dry wind-blizzards. On Monday, February 25th we had dry, sunny weather combined with high winds all day and night.

I stepped outside after lunch to check the mail. Uhh-Ohh. The brush pile fire we had burned almost two weeks before, and foolishly thought to be extinguished, threw wind-driven sparks out to a nearby unburned brush pile. The new fire had been burning for a half-hour, but the smoke was going away from the house. My spouse and I were oblivious that a roof-high, whipping fire was outside, while we ate lunch just two hundred yards away! When juniper (here called “cedar”) burns, it flares up to a scary inferno of flames even in mild, damp weather.

My husband got the tractor and frantically covered the pile with dirt, using the loader. I grabbed chain saws, water hoses, the air tank for the tractor tire. But the trouble wasn't over, cinders had blown into the juniper forest! I ran into the woods and stomped/wetted a few smoldering spots. The cinders had traveled 140 feet and, thankfully, hadn't ignited into flames. The kids stepped off the school bus and searched the woods for any other smoldering spots, none found.

I sat out all night in the truck, with shovel/water buckets, in case there was a flare-up in the cold, whipping wind. My 4G Tablet was entertainment, and served as an alarm for short catnaps. My Jack Russell Terrier, a whip-smart little companion, kept my lap and hands warm.

Lessons: (1) I will never again allow a burn-pile to be covered with dirt and smolder. Buried logs and stumps can smolder for months! One will discover how dangerous this is when you get a dry spell and a wind storm. I will make sure future burned-up piles are promptly knocked down and thoroughly extinguished. (2) Since the burn-pile was very near the county road, I was disappointed that no passers-by stopped to offer help, nor noticed the unattended flames, while we were lunching, and inform us of the problem. As other contributors have noted, get to know your neighbors well, make sure they have your phone numbers.

Postscript: The high winds picked up again, a week later, (March 5) and blew the dirt off the pile, exposing embers from last week's accidental fire. After piling more dirt on, we are waiting for forecasted rain this weekend so we can tear down this dangerous pile of buried embers, allow the old stumps to burn and extinguish it for good. - Sarah in Central Texas

Dear James,
I wish to make a comment about the article on preparing an emergency bag for your car. This is a prudent and good idea. I currently have one for each vehicle I own.

The only problem with the article is the choice of food. I have a tendency to leave my emergency bag in my car. The problem arises in the summer when the outside temps start to rise. With the outdoor temp at 100 degrees F the car's inside temperature is 120 to 130. The MRE entrees only have a shelf life of 30 days at 120 degrees F. Unless you were to replace this every 30 days more than likely the meal would be unusable when a need would arise.

I was recently introduced to the New Millennium Food Bars. These are designed to with stand +300 degrees F to -60 degrees F without going bad. I leave these in my kit and I don't have to worry if they will be good when I need them, and they don't taste half bad. - Keith R.

Most preppers probably have a pretty good handle on how to assemble a bug-out-bag (BOB). And, it’s probably so large and ungainly, that it gets stuck in the closet, just like mine. Let's be honest, are you going to have it when you need it? I think we have covered the likelihood of being at home when “it” happens in plenty of detail in the past. We have seen that the chances of you being at home on your couch with your BOB beside you are slim. What about all the other situations? In other words, where to you spend a sizeable quantity of your life in a situation that can easily turn against you? And, in this situation, are you adequately prepared? Lastly, are you just thinking of yourself, or thinking of your dependents…who are what really matter.

Ironically, about a month ago, Alabama had one of those Jesus Is Coming moments when the white stuff from hades started falling. If you don't catch the joke, it's that Alabama shuts down at just the threat of severe winter weather. I was sitting here in my office when the loud speaker told us to go home. In the ice and snow. 2,500 people all recklessly driving to pick up their kids. Not only does Alabama shut down, but Alabamians don't know how to drive in bad weather, of any kind. But they are particularly incapable of driving in snow and ice. Case in point is that on Interstate 65, wrecks caused 24 hour delays. Most of these delays were between exits in a very rural area. Families were trapped in their vehicles for a whole day.

I guess you can see where I am going with this article. The fact is, you use your car every day. You spend a sizeable amount of your life in a car. And of all things that you do, driving is probably both the most dangerous and most likely to put you into one of these situations. Here is the kicker: it is also the most likely time that you will have to fend not only for yourself, but for your entire family. Face it, being stuck in the snow for 24 hours is bad. But, you…by yourself…could hump it, if you had to. It wouldn’t be the end of the world. But it wouldn’t be the case for me.

So, my wife...ever supportive of this hobby of mine...saw a real application of survival prepping. She asked me to make an emergency kit for the car. While most of you reading would think about gas cans, flashlights, and tow straps, recall that many of us have kids. Young ones. We can't just start humping it up the interstate. We need food, water, and warmth. Now, I know times are hard and people have a tough time spending money on things they will probably never use. But, you can't put a price on safety, convenience, or comfort. These things do happen. All the time.

I am going to show you how to put together a simple kit that will buy you 24 hours of comfort and assurance for you and your family. And I am going to do it on a budget that anyone can feel good about, while maintaining the useful space in your vehicle.

After a few weeks of procrastinating, I finally got serious (and got paid...). The first thing I did was to shop at the Emergency Essentials web site. They have plenty of “all in one package” items, but not only was the all in one survival bags a little bit more than I wanted to spend, it took the fun out of shopping and building it for myself. Not only that, but everyone is different in their level of survivability. I started out by buying the 72 Hour Improved MRE kit. This cost $58 dollars.

 

Contents of the Improved MRE 72-Hour Food and Water Supply

• MRE Main Dish Entrees 9
• MRE Side Dishes 6
• MRE Dessert 6
• MRE Drink Mix 3
• Water Pouch 18
• Bread/Biscuit 3
• Peanut Butter 2
• Jam Packet 1
• Cheese Packet 1
• Hard Candy 3
• Accessory Pack 9

Now, that's a big box of stuff, and honestly, as I counted up the calories, I realized that we didn't need all of this, nor could we fit it in the car conveniently. I figured we needed a solid 1,000 calorie meal and days’ worth of water. After all, we are American and it would take weeks to starve us fat people. But kids get cranky and it's hard to keep your wits about you when you have 3 of them telling you how hungry they are. Turns out, by counting the calories in each item, it took one MRE main dish, one dessert, and one fruit for a 1,000 calorie meal. Multiple that by 5 and I actually had 1 person's day worth of food left over, which I added to my 24 hour bag.

Additionally, I added:

• Wool survival blankets for $11.99. That's a steal. These things are heavy and huge. And they normally cost $25.
• 5 Hothands Super Warmers. I bought these for $1 each.
• 3 Mylar emergency blankets. I bought these in a lot of 10 from Amazon for under $5
• 3 glow sticks. I bought these in a lot of 10 for $11
• Baggie of vitamins and OTC pills.
• One large flashlight
• Basic hand tool kit
• Straps and bungee cords
• Can of Fix-A-Flat

Even after I put this together, I noticed that there were some other things that I think should be added, but aren’t necessary. For you, they may be, so don’t forget about things like playing cards, sanitary wipes/toilet paper, extra plastic sacks, spare sets of clothes, and, if you need it as we do, baby formula.

While the people reading this already are like-minded and see the benefit of this kit, I am trying to appeal to those that aren’t. The Top Two Questions you are asking are: 1) I bet it’s a lot of money for something I will never use and 2) That much stuff would be impossible to fit in my vehicle. These two questions were foremost on my mind when I put this together. Why? Because like everyone else, I am on a budget and I have three children and all of their stuff. Yet, it fits nicely behind the back seat of my Chevy Yukon. It isn't very heavy. The total cost was under $60.

Mr. Rawles,
I have not seen the subject of a 2WD with a limited slip differential versus a 4WD addressed on your blog. If it has, I have missed it.

Most 4WD vehicles have "open" differentials and if one wheel on that axle spins, then the other stops. I have seen 4WD trucks spinning the driver side front wheel and the passenger side rear wheel and nothing from the other 2 wheels (dead stop). There are vehicles with limited slip front and rear but they are uncommon unless you special order them that way new or have aftermarket parts installed.

A limited slip differential will still transfer about 30% power to the non-spinning wheel thus giving you some traction. I had an old 1969 ford pickup when I was a teenager in the 1970's and it had a limited slip rear end. Doing all the truely dumb things a teenager will do, I only got that thing stuck twice. Every other time I was able to get it unstuck on its own. Admittedly, the worst off roading I did with was cow pastures, fire break roads, and power line easements in Texas. (Gravel and dirt roads and mud.) I do not have much experience in snow, perhaps some other readers have info about it on this subject.

It is a LOT less expensive to purchase and maintain a 2wd limited slip differential than a 4WD setup and you get pretty close to the same traction capabilities in the real world unless you are seriously off roading or in snow. They also get better gas mileage.

4WD is better in extreme conditions, but day to day, pre-SHTF you are rather well served with 2WD and limited slip, depending on your climate and terrain.
Just my two cents worth, I have learned a lot here and want to contribute. - John in Texas

 

Mr. Rawles,
Several years ago I came across an article in a 4-wheel drive magazine (I can't remember which one) where they tested a 2-wheel drive pickup versus a 4-wheel drive pickup. They concluded that a 2-wheel drive could go about 85% of the places that a 4-wheel drive could go if set up correctly with off roading tires, beefed up suspension and a winch. Since most 4-wheelers tend to add those features anyway, you're still saving money because a 2-wheeler can be several thousand dollars cheaper than a 4-wheeler. Add to that the lower overall cost of operating it daily because of better mileage and no differential to wear out and a 2-wheeler is a viable option.

There were two caveats with the 85% percent number - Heavy rock crawling and serious mug bogging were definitely out. But then again they found that the person driving the 2-wheel drive truck tended to take a bit more care in picking their line because they didn't have that feeling of invincibility that some get when driving a 4-wheel drive truck. - Matthew B.

Mr. Rawles,
I have a question that I'm hoping you could provide some insight on.  I'm looking for a Bug Out Vehicle (BOV), but can't figure out what might be best.  My options are truck, SUV, or van.  I can think of pro's and con's for each myself but I can imagine that there are things that I'm not taking into consideration as well that could sway my decision.  The biggest thing is being able to use the vehicle for other things rather than it just sitting around waiting for the Schumer to Hit The Fan.  With that being said a truck or van would be most useful in a work capacity.  I like the idea of 4 wheel drive so that might limit a van since I hardly ever find too many of them with that option.  The van could be used for more work opportunities in my opinion but a four wheel drive truck would definitely come in handy in a bad situation.  By the way, I'm looking to keep the cost down as well. 

I'm hoping that you've might have encountered the question before and provided some excellent insight to someone like myself.  Any insight would be most appreciative.  Thank you!!

- Brian T.

JWR Replies: Yes, these issues have been discussed at length several times in the past seven years on SurvivalBlog. But, to summarize: A four wheel drive pickup is generally the most flexible, especially if you get a lightweight camper shell. (For more details use de a phrase like: "BOV and 4WD and capacity" with the blog's Search box.

But I must add a caveat for this Early 21st Century era of gas prices that start with a "3": If your BOV will be a "daily driver" then get a Toyota pickup, for better fuel economy.

Way back before computers completely took over our lives, life seemed a lot simpler. If it were up to me, I'd live without computers, microprocessors, cell phones, texting, e-mails and tweets (whatever that is). I long for the time when cars were more simple to work on, I used to love tinkering with my own cars, improving on them, repairing them, and just playing around with them. Heck, I even worked as a dune buggy mechanic in Hawaii for a time. Today, with all the computers running cars and trucks, I can't hardly figure out anything on new vehicles, you need a computer to hook-up to the computer on your vehicle, in order to find out what's not working right on your rig, and even then, sometimes it's still a hit or miss proposition when it comes to making a repair.
 
Back when dinosaurs still roamed the earth, backyard and shade tree mechanics used to have a flashlight or a shop light, to use when working under the hood of the car. Many shops still use traditional shop lights these days - the incandescent bulb still hasn't died off completely. Now, I'll readily admit, a flashlight wasn't the perfect source of light when working under the hood of a car, and shop lights were difficult to get to stay in place and shed their light where you needed it. Okay, so maybe everything back in the stone age wasn't perfect....
 
I received the Maxxeon WorkStar 2000 Technician's Floodlight for testing for SurvivalBlog readers, and I'm impressed with the product, I'll admit that right up front. What we have is a fully rechargeable work light, with magnets placed on it, so you can firmly attach it to just the right place under the hood of a car or truck, to produce a very bright 270 Lumens of pure white light - no dark spots at all. It gives you a "flood light" where you need it most. The WorkStar 200 is basically a hands-free light, you can stick it to any metal surface or hang it with the retractable hook or mount it permanently with a camera tripod socket in the base. Heck, you can even hold it in your hand if you wanted to - retro!
 
The WorkStar 2000 doesn't use a reflector like so many flashlights do, instead it uses a fresnel-like lens that creates a huge floodlight beam - no shadows, no rings no hot spots, just pure light. Additionally, the neck of the light rotates 360-degrees and the head also tilts 180 degrees, so you don't have to keep moving the light around from one surface to another - just move the head. Neat! You can also use the belt clip, to clip the WorkStar 2000 to you belt or pants pocket when moving around the shop from one rig to another. You also get two power sources for recharging your light - one for the power outlet in your shop and another for the accessory outlet in your vehicle.  BTW, the rechargeable battery is the NiMH type and will last for years. You also get two power settings, on high the light will shine for over 2-hours, and on low you get 8-hours of run time. For many purposes, the low setting will suffice for many of your needs. However, if you need the super-bright high setting for those hard to see areas, you've got 2-hours of power there. Recharge time is about 3-hours.
 
So, where does the WorkStar 2000 fit in, for the Survivalist of Prepper? Well, first of all, don't kid yourself into thinking your bug out vehicle won't break down or need maintenance - it will! And, you can count on Mr. Murphy being on-hand when your rig does stop or need maintenance - and you will need light to work under the hood, under the the rig or under the dashboard. Believe me, it's no fun trying to find something wrong if you can't see what you're doing. Sure, an ordinary flashlight will "suffice" if that's all you have, however the WorkStar 2000 can do the job better than any flashlight can - period!
 
How many times have you had the bulb burn-out in a flashlight? Well, that's happened more times than I care to remember over the years. The WorkStar 2000 has LED lights that will last a lifetime. Just a few short years ago, LED lights didn't product very much light. Sure they were economical to use, but honestly, they didn't throw all that much light. Times have changed, and the WorkStar 2000 is solid proof of that.
 
You can also use the WorkStar 2000 for emergency lighting in your home when the power goes out - use the low setting, that's all you'll need. If you're camping and you need light in your tent, the WorkStar can take care of that, and you can hang it from the center of your tent and direct the light where you need it. If you're one of those people who insist on walking late at night, in the dark, or early morning hours before the sun comes up, you can clip this light to your pants to light the way for you and alert on-coming vehicles you are on the road. The light also produces a "white" enough light for some photography work, or for producing those YouTube videos - how many of those have you seen that were poorly lit?
 
One word of advice though, don't look directly into the super-bright light that the WorkStar 2000 produces - take my word for it - you'll have a black spot in the center of your vision for a while if you look directly at this light - I didn't do it on purpose, it was an accident, but you only have to do this once to know you shouldn't do it again! I'm smart - just not all the time!
 
The WorkStar 2000 retails for $119.75 with $9.99 FedEx or USPS shipping to the USA and $19.99 to Canada (UPS). When I first received this sample, I didn't think it had many uses, ok, I was wrong. This light is also great when it comes to working under the hood of your car in bright sunlight - yeah, there are still a lot of dark areas under the hood even in bright sunlight. And, many lesser lights simply wash out - the WorkStar 2000 didn't wash out in the bright sunlight. Maybe the good ol' days weren't as good as I remember them to be. The WorkStar 2000 sure would have come in handy back in my day when working on rigs.
 
Also, be sure to check out some of the other Maxxeon lights that they offer on their web site. However, if you work on vehicles a lot, this is a must have item in my humble opinion. It is well made, very durable and comes with a one year warranty as well. - SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio

Greetings,
In a short response to Simon S. from "Across the pond" and his letter about using heating oil for diesel vehicles, please let me add one small bit of first hand advice;  The heating oil that you buy for your home is not only dyed differently for tax reasons, it isn't filtered as well either.  I also live in Europe and I got the idea to burn heating oil in my diesel vehicle once most people started converting (wrongly I might add) to Natural Gas from Russia.  The people who converted were expected to pay a lot of money to have the remainder of their heating fuel in their heating tanks removed and destroyed as environmentally unfriendly waste.  So I started pumping it out and taking it from them for free to use at home for my own use.  Then I started putting some of it in my Volkswagen Passat Turbo Diesel car.  It worked great for about a month, then one morning the car wouldn't start, and the dealer said the fuel injector unit was destroyed, which was something he doesn't see very often.  It cost me about 2,500 Euro ($$3,000) to have a new one put in, and I thought it was just a case of a bad part.  Then, about a month later, the new diesel injector unit was also bad, and they noticed that the fuel was heating oil not diesel.  They wouldn't replace the pump the second time for free under warranty. The dealer told me that modern diesel injector units (Like those used on common rail injectors) are very sensitive to dirt and other dissolved trash in the heating oil.  The filter takes out solid particles, but not  particles fine enough to ruin the injector pump. Beware using heating oil in a modern diesel.

I use it all the time in my older Massey Ferguson MF-35 tractor with a Perkins diesel motor, as well as the MAN diesel motor that runs my emergency generator, but I never use it in my modern vehicles. - Mike in Europe

JWR Replies: Here in the States, the formulation standards for home heating oil are similar to those in Europe. Although their formulation and flash points are nearly identical, home heating oil and diesel have different standards for ash and sulfur content. With home heating oil a higher quantity of ash is allowable. Therefore, the same warning that you mentioned also applies to vehicles here in the United States. Owners of vehicles with "rail" type fuel-injected diesel engines, beware!

I recently stopped by our local farmers market, and while ambling along with a fresh home-made fig newton, I stopped dead in my tracks when I saw what one vendor offered.

There amongst the crafts, and farm produce, was an enterprising fellow standing behind a table with a large three rotor drone helicopter. Marketed as the “Draganflyer” it has 3 dual sets of rotors stacked in pairs atop each other.

It was equipped with a gyroscope-stabilized digital video, and still camera, set-up. He was contracting with folks to fly his drone over their property and take very detailed pictures of their homes. He then sold them DVDs, or large crisp pictures suitable for framing. Which, by the way, he also offered to provide, so one could proudly display the photographs in the parlor to ones guests.

This drone was surely on par with those that the film industry uses for fly-over views in production. It was the largest one I’ve seen. The fellow was charging up to seventy-five dollars for the service, plus twenty dollars and up for big 24”x 24” or so color prints. He was so busy answering questions, and signing people up that I didn’t get a chance to ask him any technical questions, or get additional info on his setup.

The development of small drones, both fixed wing, and  rotor-craft has virtually exploded in the past few years. Companies are springing up all over offering these easy to fly platforms for film,  and surveillance, some designed for covert, as well as conventional operations. Like the many newer small arms manufacturers who, with their own input from their combat experiences, flooded the battle-rifle market niche’ with variations of M4s, and calibers such as 6.8, and  .50 caliber Beowulf, one looking for a drone to supplement their LP/OP has a lot of choices. The range of choices, thankfully, include so many options, that one on a limited budget, all the way up to a prepper who isn’t constrained by price can pick the drone that will be of best use in his particular area of operation (AO) when TSHTF.

 The U.S. military has clearly been pushing the limits, and using every new state-of-the-art technological breakthrough available in surveillance devices since we began the war on terror. Their un-manned drones have steadily gotten larger and larger, and went from being eyes-only camera platforms, to now being armed-to-the-teeth with virtually every missile that can be fixed to an aircrafts under-carriages.

Going in the opposite direction, the military now supplies ground units a variety of  hand-launched fixed wing RC aircraft on the squad level for special operators to use as they gather recon on the battlefield. Like the “Falcon UAV”. which I saw being demonstrated on a recent episode on the Military Channel. These are small, virtually indestructible, carbon composite aircraft that are easily deployed out of a pack by one or two soldiers.

Coupled with hardened military field lap-tops and satellite links, forward recon teams can collect, and pass on, an amazing amount of real-time information, inconceivable to reconnaissance units of even a few years ago.

A quick Google research trip came up with an unbelievable number of companies offering three, four, six, and even EIGHT engined rotor craft, like the  “Hexacopter”  and the “Octocopter” .

I couldn’t guess how much money and man-hours these guys used up, in trying to outdo each other by adding on engines, and other upgrades.

These companies clearly have some tech-savvy R&D guys, who have incorporated not only the gyro-stabilized mounting systems for cameras, but have utilized software that has taken the actual flight controls to another level. The copters in even the moderately priced end of the cost spectrum have auto-pilot, built-in GPS systems, and ground sensing features. The auto-pilot and ground-sensing features allow an operator to hover the craft for many minutes, with almost no effort. Some have thermal, and/or I.R. imaging systems, and even F.L.I.R. capabilities.  Most of the drones use a LiPo battery pack, and flight times, usually depend on how much extra software and systems are drawing power aside from the motors, varies, but is usually around fifteen to twenty minutes per full charge.

Some, like the Parrot Quadracopter 4 rotor RC offering, are controlled by WiFi, and a free downloadable APP allows one to use an I-pod, I-phone or other smart device to fly the copter. This device sells on the lower end of the cost spectrum, approximately $300 USD. The others mentioned in this article are upwards of $1000 USD, and more depending on features. These machines, for the most part, are way easier to control and fly than most of the run-of-the-mill hobby/toy RC mini-helicopters one sees in Wally World-type stores.

Now I know that laying out, or budgeting, an extra five hundred to a thousand dollars might be pushing it for some of us, but I firmly believe that these RC helicopters equipped with camera capabilities are well worth the investment. Imagine a scenario where you and others in your neighborhood “bug in”, and you are faced with multiple points of entry into your subdivision via roads. You’d have to have several OP/LP’s, manned by 2-3 persons, rotating on three eight hour shifts to cover each 24 hour period. Unless you had blocked off, or made impassable, most of those ingress/egress points, that’s a lot of manpower dedicated to advance warning and perimeter protection. With a single drone, or even two or more in rotation, one person could have the helicopter or fixed wing drone hover, or circle, virtually undetected, giving a 360 degree view of the entire neighborhood. That’s a big savings, in terms of manpower hours, and supplies in not having to keep the checkpoints and OP/LP’s manned every moment of every day.

For those who plan to bug out into the wilderness, or to a primary or secondary location, especially in a heavily timbered or forested area, a high-flying set of eyes seems ideal. Combined with the possibility that there is only you and your spouse and maybe children, or just another   few couples for security, I would think that the drones would be a God-send.

If you take the time to watch the flight videos, or have had the opportunity to see close-up just how quiet these things are, you will surely appreciate their quiet-running capabilities. I have seen these being operated from the distance of half a football field away, and wouldn’t have given it a minutes notice. In an “hunker-down” situation, if there’s roving bands of bad-guys, they most certainly will approach in vehicles, and then these drones are virtually silent.

The other clear benefit to employing drones to keep watch, is that even if the device is
spotted, and even engaged and disabled, it’s much better than risking losing a member of your team, or family. Machines are expendable, and replaceable, while people clearly are not.

A much better scenario would be to be sitting snuggly in a central command area equipped with CCTV monitors, powered perhaps by a genset, or re-chargeable solar/battery banks. Or even streaming into your laptop, I-phone or I-pad, regardless of your location relevant to the drones area of observation. As to the possibility of someone actually firing on, and taking out one of these drones, I would say that an adversary would have to be a pretty good shot, if not a military-grade marksman in order to hit and disable the craft. I’d also think, that with the ability to see the bad-guys from a long way off, or at least a distance, you’d have sufficient time to exfiltrate the drone if it came to maintaining OPSEC or remaining undetected. If you took the additional measure of deploying an LP/OP a distance from your main AO, then that would give those in the primary camp a good amount of fore-warning to prevent being located and overrun. 

 This brings up another point. That being  that the drones are only as good, as the users ability to keep them powered up. There are many options available to pair the drones with solar or conventional on-grid, or off-grid recharging set-ups. One can purchase extra battery packs, and along with that, extra spare replacement parts in kit form, in case of damage to the wings, rotors, frame or other hardware or software on the units.

If you follow this link from RC Helicopter Fun, the author, using a Parrot, proceeds to give a thorough tutorial for employing that specific device, while the site also answers many of the questions a beginner may have.

My plan is to pick up a couple of the less expensive multi-rotor helicopter units, along with spare batteries, and a solar charging array. I don’t know if our plan to “bug-in” in our neighborhood will suffice when TEOTWAWKI happens, or if we’ll have to go to “Plan B” and bug out in our mobile configuration, either way, having an “eye in the sky” looking out for our security regardless of the situation, is safer, easier solution for us.

Jim:
InyoKern's comments [about living in trailers] are right on. My brother is [living] in a 21.5 foot long toy hauler and it is built stronger than a conventional trailer and you can haul a lot in it. It is very comfortable and has extra large storage capacity for fuel, water etc. He has 200 watts of photovoltaic panels on the roof and four 6 -volt golf cart batteries cabled together to provide most of his electrical needs.

I have a 9 foot truck camper and though its good the trailer is much more versatile for moving about from city to city if you have a place to drop it, like a RV park. They are a good choice for a small business, as well. - Jason M.

Dear Jim,
I've been having blinding flashes of the obvious lately that I wanted to share.
 
A friend of mine just got a few AS degrees in IT, not realizing just how FUBAR the business world is for his new profession. IT professionals are no longer employees. They're contract workers, rarely working in a position more than a year, and often a lot less. They don't get benefits or retirement packages. They get specific tasks, get done, get paid, and get shown the door. This is not conducive to stable living. The career has changed so much that they are doing the minimalism trick and moving to the job. At first, that means renting long term stay hotel rooms, economy suites etc. But that's pretty expensive. The blinding flash? A trailer.

Get a town vehicle and pull a trailer that you can live in. Depending on pay and vehicle defines the kind of trailer to pull, but I've found through my own Google searching that there's many manufacturers of modest very light trailers which can pull behind any pickup or SUV, and even behind a Subaru. Ones you can stand up inside. Ones with hookups for most trailer parks. There are even ones with garage space, called Toy Haulers, which could be used for workshops for many professions, including space to store a table saw or electronics bench, welding rig and generator and gas bottles. All sorts of stuff, and its out of sight, out of mind. The Garage models are heavier so will require a stronger tow vehicle, but anyone driving and RV could tow a specialized trailer to a job site instead, chain it to something solid, and live next to it. Put it in the contract. I can see contract labor is the future, or even the present, and businesses are veering away from employee benefits in the modern economic disaster area thanks to that last election and the ongoing Derivatives Bubble. Investing in business seems very risky. Contracts avoid the risk.
 
Since the Tow Vehicle is massively fuel inefficient thanks to its specialization, the answer to getting around is either bicycle or motorbike or scooter. Roads being what they are, scooters are somewhat risky. They go down in potholes, in the road, often in front of traffic. A used Enduro motorbike, road legal with license plate and mirror and turn signals, or an older but working small displacement road motorcycle offers a means to get around, buy groceries, run errands. And it can be carried on or in the trailer. People do that. Its not as comfortable as a car, but its more comfortable than walking and cheaper than an 8 MPG tow vehicle.
 
As for the trailer itself, insulation seems to be key, as is power generation. Not all jobs will have hookups, meaning a (really quiet) generator is going to be needed unless you've got solar panels installed on the roof. Cheap solar that charges a battery is the answer. The more panels you've got, the more power for heat, lights, radio, fridge, and living humanely. Water will always limit trailers, so a hookup is far preferred. If you park somewhere with common showers, room to stretch out, and real hot water that might be a better choice. This also implies there's a real business opportunity there: running trailer parks for traveling professionals and technicians. Installing WiFi or including ethernet in the hookup bundle? Winning strategy for a business based on short and medium duration stays. Run a restaurant that delivers in the park center and you make yet more money and attract clients that have no time to cook or cleanup.
 
Professionals are going to be there to sleep and clean up, then back to the job they're on. Its not the traditional slumming situation. You'll have doctors and repair techs, IT guys, web designers who work directly with the customer (a niche that exists), event planners (business marketing, MBAs), horse dentists, mechanics, factory design engineers and techs, welders, CNC machinists, compliance officers, all sorts of things which make for contract labor. As the cost of fuel goes up and goes synthetic ($33/gal for synthetic biodiesel), the people who do this will be modestly to highly paid. They're just living in trailers so they keep more of it.
 
The strongest argument for residence trailers is that if you live light enough, you have your bugout gear with you, and you are yourself bugging out every time you move. Moving to jobs and away from bad economies is a viable survival strategy. You can't take hold of opportunity trapped in one place, not really. You "make do" in one place. You build labor saving devices and get things comfortable, but business moves with the economic winds, and those winds are turbulent today. America has largely exported its thinking and manufacturing jobs to China and India, and its left us with high unemployment. That unemployment is hiding behind the largest Back To College surge since the Veterans returned from WW2. Students aren't counted as Unemployed. When they graduate, we'll see more real numbers. They'll hit the job market and find little or nothing unless they starting thinking outside the box. And some will be thinking about this. Sincerely, - InyoKern

Captain Rawles:
I've been enjoying and learning valuable information from your books and your blog, and thought I'd share some of my expertise in hope of helping others to prepare.
 
If, like me, you've been slowly adding more security to your bug-in location or retreat, you've been adding perimeter defenses such as fencing, detectors, etc. in order to prevent people and/or vehicles from easily gaining access to your property.  If you have more funds than I do, then you've probably installed harder defenses, such as bollards, ditches, and maybe even concertina wire.  These measures will stop most vehicular threats, and oh, sure -- nothing is going to stop indirect fire (mortars, artillery) or attack from the air, but there is a much simpler way to gain access that we all need to be aware of:   heavy equipment.
 
Having worked in construction for many years. I, like thousands of others, have acquired and collected keys to most types of heavy equipment, to include bulldozers, front end loaders, and excavators.  Bottom line is, there are too many keys out there, and unlike most vehicles, most manufacturers use just one key for all their equipment,  A good example is Caterpillar who for at least thirty years has used the exact same key for all their various types of earthmoving machines.  This makes it all the easier for someone to "borrow" or steal one, and if TSHTF, there will be a lot of equipment sitting around at abandoned quarries and job sites.
 
While much as been written about the threat of gangs or other marauders using stolen APCs or other armored vehicles, it would be much easier to use heavy equipment to attack your place.  Here's one scenario:
 
A group steals a medium sized front end loader and welds thick steel plates surrounding the cab.  They fill the tires with foam (some machines already have solid-filled tires) and head for lucrative targets.  Most loaders will go down the road at 25 mph, so there's no need to bother with a transport truck.  They approach your perimeter...you see them coming and open fire...the machine doesn't stop because the engine is in the rear and hard to hit.  Most likely, they just go right through your gate.  The stoutest locks and hinges will be no match for a 15 to 20 ton behemoth.  If for whatever reason your gate looks like it might be too much trouble, they will gain access at some other point.  Ditches can simply be filled in, bollards can be dug out of the ground or covered with a mound of dirt, same with fences or other obstacles.  So how do you stop it?
 
First, try shooting the tires, hopefully more than just one.  There's a good chance they're not filled and will rapidly deflate.  It won't get far with flat tires.  If that doesn't work, try flanking it and pour as many high-powered rounds as you can into the engine compartment.  Even if all you can cause is a coolant or oil leak, it won't get very far.  If you have tracer rounds, you could go for the fuel tank.  Most newer loaders have it under the engine, some older ones have it on the left side of the cab.
 
The other method is to burn it.  The center of the machine has many rubber hydraulic hoses and will usually be covered in oil and grease.  A few Molotov cocktails should do the trick, but consider that the machine will be accompanied by armed men on foot, who will have to be taken out first.  Except for the tires, the same would apply for tracked machines. 
 
Hope this helps.  Keep prepping! - B.B.D.

JWR:
"Observations On Bugging Out By Foot" was a great article by J. Smith.  Like him, we use the Military Modular Seep System.   It can be purchased new on eBay for $120 to $150.  We keep them in our bug out bags here in cold country.
 
Another item we have tested and found to be very useful is the Solo Stove wood gas stove.  It only weighs 9 ounces and you can cook a meal with just twigs.  It has an alcohol stove option that fits inside and only weighs a few ounces.  You can get both stoves as a kit for about $90 on Amazon.
 
Lastly, I should mention that the stove works well with the Esbit Fuel Tabs.  You then have three fuel options to cook with in a very compact, lightweight package.
 
Keep up the great work, - PED

 

James,
I appreciated the article 'Observations on Bugging Out By Foot, by J. Smith'. As a 'seasoned' citizen I would like to offer this suggestion. In my youth I did 15 - 20 miles with a 45 pound pack with no problem. However, now in my mid sixties, I may well be able to walk extended distances, but I could not do so with a full pack. Even if I was able to, I can assure that my wife could not. Consider also the younger family man with a couple of kids. The extra food, water and supplies could very well overwhelm dad's ability to carry all that was needed. Yet, the need may still arise. My solution to this problem is the 'deer cart.' They are easily portable, highly mobile and rugged enough to carry a heavy load.

Side note: If you were going to bug out on a bike, you could consider a bike trailer! - Fred K.

JWR;
After reading the follow up to automotive preparedness, (I am Toyota fan) I figured I would share a few thoughts. Some background , I use to be a tractor mechanic for several years, repairing all kind of engines, transmissions, and other systems. I have also owned four  1980s-era Toyota trucks since I was in high school  (all 4x4s). I  progressed from no power steering or air conditioning as a kid, to wanting all the extras later in life. I also have many friends and family which have Toyotas that I helped work on. I also have a neighbor that is the parts manager for a large urban Toyota dealership.

  The main point I want to express is choosing the proper replacement parts, or more importantly when to pay a little more money for original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts and their dependability . I like shopping at the local auto parts shop with people who know me, that  know automotive parts , and are not totally lost without a computer (books work too)! I don't mind saving money going to a large chain store for some parts either. Finally I have no problem spending higher dealer prices for critical parts.

The two best examples I want to share, start with a 3,000 mile round trip I made on the west coast. Over my vacation, I had an alternator fail not once, but three times, and each replacement I installed was a rebuilt large chain store part bought in a different state. Nevermore! Once I raced home on batteries only trying to beat the sunset ( I didn't want to kill the battery using headlights) , I decided to spend more money and get a new aftermarket high power alternator. I never had a problem after that. The next example involves my uncle`s truck. He had to replace the water pump, and while we were doing this we replaced the timing belt , which had 120,000 miles on it ( it should have been replaced at 80,000 miles). We used a  new timing belt from a large chain store. About 12,000 miles later his truck started running a little rough, he adjusted the ignition timing and it ran fine for 2 more days, then died. I was helping him figure out what went wrong, which took some time because we never considered the "new timing belt" failing. Once we got the timing belt out, we  were shocked to say the least. The belt with 12,000 miles on it had missing cogs , had a glazed over  look to it, and was cracked everywhere. I gave the belt to my neighbor   at the dealership to show his customers, and installed a factory belt with no problems for another 80,000 miles.

   I have other stories , but don't want drag this out. My new rules for buying replacement parts are as follows,

     1. Rubber seals/gaskets on the motor itself, timing belts, drive shaft U joints/ bearings , and  water pumps = only purchase  factory/ OEM parts, when possible.

     2. Alternator or electrical equipment on the motor = try to buy  OEM or new aftermarket.

     3. Hoses, fan belts, filters, smog equipment  ,and  any components not directly connected to the engine = save money and go to local shop or large chain store.

      Starters can fall into either rule 2 or 3 since they are not being worked continuously the way alternators are, plus manual transmission vehicles can be push started most of the time if the starter fails ( I avoid automatic transmissions whenever possible.)

  Enjoying my 349,000 mile  Toyota, - Solar Guy

The author has laid out many very important ideas regarding keeping one's vehicle(s) in working order and having the tools and know how to do repairs "on the fly".
I'd like to add one very important consideration - the MANUFACTURER and vintage of your vehicle. It hit me like "a ton of bricks" when the author mentioned his vehicle was a 1995 Chevy 1500.   I had one!  Without a doubt it was the worst vehicle I've ever owned. Brakes were worthless off of the showroom floor. By the 62,000 mi mark when I finally traded it the metallic blue paint had peeled off of cab, hood and fenders, five speed manual tranny was bad, exhaust system was rusted through, alternator had seized , caught fire and melted down (good I had a fire extinguisher / not good, I was over 50 miles from the nearest town) and it had gone through at least ten serpentine belts.  My daughter called me last week mentioning that they'd gotten a "new" used pickup and coming home the alternator caught on fire and melted. I jokingly asked of it was a Chevy half ton -- and she said: "Why, yes!"

I traded this vehicle for a  1996 Toyota Tacoma with 82.000 miles logged, back in 2000. I have a heavy camper on the bed and mileage is now over 160,000. To date I've had to replace a clutch, slave cylinder, starter, and a muffler. I also replaced the timing belt at 107,000 mi as routine maintenance.

Some vehicles are simply better made than others and can be expected to last longer and require far less emergency maintenance. - Rob in Colorado

I am a firm believer that a TEOTWAWKI situation will happen, and in my lifetime.  I consider myself a prepper, and am a daily reader of “prepping articles,” and almost always read about “bug out bags,” or “72-hour kits,” call them what you will.  I also read allot of articles devoted to bug out vehicles.  A bug out vehicle is a great concept, but is only as good as the distance it will take you, or for the length of time that it will last.  I do believe that bugging out is a necessity in prepping for a TEOTWAWKI situation, but to my surprise I very rarely read articles on preparing for automotive repair during a TEOTWAWKI situation!  Imagine this:

The grid goes down, you and your family and/or team are preparing to “bug out.”  You gather all of your supplies, and start your journey to your retreat.  On the way your vehicle starts running very rough, sputtering, and stalls on the side of the road, which is not a very good place to be during a TEOTWAWKI situation!  What do you do?  If a member of your family, and/or team is an experienced mechanic the situation may not seem so dire.  That person may be able to repair your vehicle fast, and proper.  But what if no such person is a member of your group?  How did you prepare for this situation?

The basics of all automotive mechanics are as follows:  Diagnosing the problem (figuring out what is wrong), and fixing the problem.  This may seem difficult for someone who is not experienced in mechanical repair, and can definitely be a frustrating situation.  Here are just a few from a very long list of tips:

• Become very familiar with your vehicle, and how it operates.
• Have a service manual for the specific year, make, and model of the vehicle.  This will provide you with detailed information on your vehicle, and offer you detailed directions on how to replace parts, and more.
• Include an experienced mechanic in your group, or become familiar with common automotive problems related to your vehicle, and the ways in which to correct those problems.
• Always include a set of tools (wrenches, socket sets, jack stands etc.) in your prepping list.  Preferably tools that you know will fit the various bolts, nuts, and screws found on your vehicle.
• Remember that one size tool does not fit all or solve all problems.  Always use the right tool for the job, to help prevent further damage. 
• Include a jack; tire tool, and spare tire.  Many vehicles already come with a spare tire, tire tool, and jack, but not all of them do.
• Make sure that your jack can safely lift the weight of your vehicle, and any added weight from supplies.
• Include a set of Jumper cables.
• Include a fire extinguisher.  You don’t want fires making an already bad situation worse!
• Include a set of tire plugs, so that small holes can easily be patched on the go.  Also include a few cans of fix-a-flat for the same reasons.  Many types of fix-a-flat exist, and most of them contained compressed air, which will aid in airing up the tire.  These are for temporary use only.  Tires should be changed, or repaired as soon as possible.
• Determine the average amount of oil changes you will do in a year, and stock up on oil and filters. On average for most gasoline engines oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.
• Know what kind of, and how much oil you should use with your vehicle.  Not all vehicles use the same viscosity and/or amount of oil.  The type of oil and amount you should use can be determined by reading your owners manual, looking for information under the hood, or on the side of the driver’s side door.  Temperature will also play a role in determining the type of oil you should use.  
• Determine the average number of tune-ups you will need in a year (tune up-changing spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor cap/ rotor if applicable), and stock up!
• Always make sure your vehicle has a full tank of gas.  This helps to not only remain prepared to leave, but keeps moisture from building up in, and rusting out your fuel tank and/or fuel lines.
• Check fluid levels regularly so as to maintain readiness, and to ensure the absence of leaks!
• Always carry extra gas cans in your vehicle so you can store, and use fuel as needed. 

 

In addition to making sure your vehicle has a spare tire it is always a good idea if possible to include more than one spare tire, and even a complete wheel and tire so as to change in a hurry, as you most likely wont have all day to work on changing a flat tire on the side of the road in a “bug out” situation.  Just the other day a friend of the family was posting on facebook that she had a flat tire, and her donut (a common type of spare tire) went flat within an hour of it being changed, that’s two flat tires in one hour!  It is impossible to predict every scenario, but you are always better off to plan ahead, plan ahead, and again plan ahead!

Currently my own personal vehicle a 1995 Chevy 1500 pick up has a bad exhaust system, brake problems, bad spark plug wires causing a misfire, and a tire that needs attention as it has been slowly leaking air!  I think to myself, why I am I setting my self up for failure by putting off the work that needs to be done.  How far would I make it if I needed to “bug out?”  Probably not very far!  Don’t set your self up for failure.  Properly maintenance your vehicle as much as possible so that you are ready when SHTF!

Remember that this list only contains some of the basics.  Your situation, and type of vehicle will both play a huge role in preparing for automotive repair in a TEOTWAWKI scenario.  The best advice I can offer is to regularly check the fluid levels on your vehicle.  Look for, and repair any leaks as soon as they are noticed to prevent further damage.  Get a service manual for your vehicle its value is immeasurable!  Familiarize yourself with common automotive problems, and ways to correct those problems!  I hope this list is helpful, and that you are prepared when, and if your bug out vehicle breaks down!

Mr. JWR:
A suggestion for the old bike tubes when they need to be replaced; cut out the stem and slit them along the inside of the tube curve, all the way around.  Lay it inside the wheel and nestle the new tube inside it.  You now have an additional rubber layer between the new tube and the puncture threats of the road. - Adventane

Dear Mr. Rawles,
I have "lurked" for several months on your site and have learned a great deal from it. Regarding Banjo's article about survival bikes, he did not mention these solid rubber inner tubes, like these:

Bell No-Mor Flats Bike Inner Tube, 26-x 1.75-Inch to 1.95-Inch

They are available at Wal-Mart online and I have found them in store locally. They should be available at good bike specialty shops as well. I have used them on my garage sale purchase mountain bike for the last 5 or 6 years.

They take a good bit of effort to install but follow the instructions and use a plastic bike "tire iron" and they will pop right on.
I learned of them from a now deceased friend who rode in an area of very abrasive sandy soil which "ate" regular inflatable tubes. He swore by them and he was right. Check them out.
I hope some of your readers find this of use. - John from Texas

JWR Replies: Foam-filled tires and solid rubber tires have been previously discussed in SurvivalBlog. They do indeed have some utility, particularly in situations where you don't have access to a bike shop. (For example because of living in a remote location or because of economic disruption.) However, the rolling resistance of these tires is high. This makes riding tiresome, especially over long distances. So my advice is yes, do buy a pair of them, but put them on a spare set of rims. That way your can switch back and forth, and enjoy the best of both worlds.

A few more thoughts on survival bikes, especially two readers' recommendations to use Presta-valve tubes. Mark L. might be a bit of a bike snob; I understand that, having myself been into high-end
bicycles and raced and toured thousands of miles, but his comments on Presta valves and suspension bikes I think are off the mark in a TEOTWAWKI situation. You cannot buy a Presta valve anywhere except a [high end] bike store or online. In my area, in the winter, there are no bike stores open within 150 miles in the best of times. Of course, if you're thinking of stocking up on Presta tubes, remember they will
grow brittle with age. Big-box stores, which stand a better chance of staying open in a civil crisis situation, DO NOT CARRY THEM--only Schrader. You cannot fill a Presta tube at a gas station. Schrader
valves have served cars well enough. The late bicycle tourist Ken Kifer, whose web site kenkifer.com is still up through the kindness of a friend, was a pragmatist who lived in a Thoreau-inspired cabin in
the woods and toured many thousands of miles on bicycles--on Schrader tubes. (Detailed diaries of most of his rides are on his site--he powered a laptop with a solar cell on the carrier of his bike.)

And suspension bikes WILL break; without welding tools (and of course the power to run them) you will be out of luck. The only possible realistic reason for any suspension on a bicycle is on a racing trials
bike. Otherwise, all the vehicle's wheels are on the ground 95% of the time (which is the purpose of suspension on a four-wheeled vehicle). One can always stand on the pedals for rough terrain.

Mark's right, though, about Kevlar tires when you can, and about "seats." A small saddle on a bike that's well-fitted (and fitting and riding technique can be researched on the Internet--it's quite
important) is much better in every application than any "seat" with too much padding or springs (except the highest-end Brooks and Ideale saddles).

I also agree with all about the superiority of steel lugged frames and avoiding buying bicycles in big-box stores. (Although bicycle manufacturing is so low-tech that a simple bike from Wal-Mart or Kmart
nowadays will probably last a good long time with proper care.) - Peter H.

Hey James;
I just want to comment regarding the article just posted about survival bikes.
 
It was a generally good article, but I have a few points of disagreement with the author.
 
The first point where I would disagree is in regard to the type of tubes he recommends.  His recommendation is bikes with Schrader valves as opposed to Presta.  I believe Presta valves to be far superior and more durable than the Schrader valve.  His reason for using the Schrader valve tube is that it is more universal.  While that is true, generally, most bicycle pumps have Presta valve adapters, and it is also possible to buy a small adapter that screws onto the Presta valve, that you can keep in your patch kit.  Another reason for picking the Presta valve tube is that most quality rims are drilled for Presta valves, not Schrader.   Presta valves also come with a small nut that tightens down and holds the Presta valve in a vertical position in relation to the rim.  This is important, because Schrader valves will shift, especially if the air pressure gets low and results in the rim actually cutting the valve stem.  Finally, a Schrader valve requires a plastic cap that keeps dirt and debris out of the valve body (which can cause the valve to leak).  These are easily lost.  A Presta valve can have a cap but it is not required, as there is a small nut, built into the valve, that tightens down and creates a very effective seal that prevents inadvertent release of air from the tube.   To sum it up, there is a reason why high-end bikes use Presta valved tubes almost exclusively: they are just better.
 
My second point is regarding suspension.  While his point regarding simplicity is well taken (and that is my reason for not having a suspension bike as my bug-out bike), there are some definite applications for at least a suspension fork on a bike: comfort.  A suspension makes for a much more comfortable ride and aids in control of the bike on rough terrain.  Riding a bike over a long distance can be brutal to your hands especially.  A suspension fork does much to alleviate this problem.  I would suggest simplicity in the fork design however, and would go for a fork that uses springs or elastomers over air or hydraulic….which will eventually have to have extensive maintenance to continue to function.   For a survival type bike, if rear suspension is desired, I would go for a suspension seat-post over a rear shock.  Again, virtually all modern bikes with full suspension utilize some form of hydraulic or air shock for the rear suspension.  That is a maintenance problem in a SHTF situation.
 
When it comes to tires, if you can afford them, get tires with a Kevlar bead that are foldable.  They take up much less space and are much lighter and easier to mount to the rims. They are also generally a better quality product.
 
When it comes to the bike’s components, (brakes, shifters, etc.), middle of the road is the way to go here.  You don’t want the top of the line components  (too expensive and sometimes what we call “stupid-light”), but you don’t want cheap.  Cheap components do not perform well, aren’t durable, hard to adjust and keep working and are just a pain in the neck in general.
 
A quality saddle is an absolute must.  And while this may be counterintuitive, you don’t want a big mushy sofa cushion type saddle.  It’s best to have a saddle with a moderate amount of padding that does not restrict movement.  You won’t find many of these in the $20 range. The $50-$70 is more likely. This is an area where you don’t want to cut corners, trust me.  A poorly designed saddle can put you in agony and actually do some pretty severe damage if you ride the bike a lot.  An anatomically designed saddle is a must here.
 
He mentions finding bikes at places like garage sales.  Not a bad idea, but one must exercise some caution here.  Yes, Chrome-Moly bikes are outstanding.  But some people don’t take proper care of them and the downside to Chrome-moly is rust and this can be hidden. I is not readily apparent to the naked eye.  So while older bikes can be a bargain, I’d steer away from any bike that has even a hint of rust or corrosion.  And while we are on this topic…another thing to watch out for would be damaged components..such as shifters and brakes.  These can be costly to repair, and can make a cheap bike into an expensive bike very quickly.  Some older bikes have components that are almost impossible to repair or find and the bike’s design may not accommodate the newer design components.   Bike maintenance can be learned, but some aspects of it are almost an art, especially when it comes to the bike shifting mechanism.  Another thing that you have to watch out for are badly worn chain-rings.  And then there is the matter of the wheels and hubs.  Sealed hubs are an absolute must.  The author mentioned quality rims and he is correct.  Used bikes can definitely be a good deal….you just have to be careful and know enough about bikes to be able to spot problems that the bike may have.  A cheap bike can turn into an expensive bike very quickly if you aren’t careful.
 
And I totally agree that big box department store bikes should be avoided at all costs.
 
I guess what I’m trying to say here, is that when one is considering a bike for a survival vehicle….especially if one is looking to use a bike as a bug-out vehicle, then cutting corners on the quality and condition of the bike is probably not a good idea.  I would compare it to the purchase of a cheap firearm.  You don’t want your firearm to fail you at a critical time.  And you don’t want the bike to fail you either.  This is another one of those cases where you truly do get what you pay for.  It is not necessary to take out a second mortgage to get a quality bike, but I think a person should not be afraid to spend $400-$500 for a good quality, recent model bike with decent components.  I recently sold a very nice Bianchi racing bike and then turned around a purchased a nice Hybrid (or city bike).  This bike is extremely versatile and I can even ride it off road, since I made sure that the rims and tires were adequate and designed for that.  I purchased the bike on sale from a reputable shop and only paid about $400 for it. (Normal retail was $600).  The key was, I purchased a bike that was not a popular color (brown)…but it was perfect for me, since it wasn’t flashy.  I immediately upgraded the saddle to a Brooks leather, which are incredibly comfortable once they are broken in.  And I recently purchased a trailer that is rated for 200 lb. load capacity.  It is my ultimate bug-out vehicle. What I would resort to if I had to get out of Dodge and fuel for my car was unavailable.  A person in reasonable condition can easily cover 50 miles a day on a bike and trailer combination like this.  And no person on foot could ever carry 200lbs on their back.  I could pack a lot of gear and food on this .  Both the bike and trailer will go in the back of my pickup.  So if the truck fails, or travel in a motor vehicle is impossible, then still have the bike.

Thanks James for your blog site and what you are doing.  I listen to you every chance I get on YouTube.  And I especially look forward to hearing you on Alex Jones.  I think you’ve been one of his best guests. - Mark L.

James:
Banjo gave a very good introduction to bikes as useful/usable transportation in an emergency situation by Banjo. The author is correct and covers most pertinent points well. Just a few additions from me:

If you can find one, a steel-framed bike is potentially preferable to an aluminum frame for several reasons, including greater flexibility and, thus, resilience on bad roads or backcountry. The most pertinent in a survival situation is that it is much easier to weld steel than aluminum. Aluminum is more prone than steel to crack at the joints (welds) and if you're covering rough country, you may encounter an break that can be repaired relatively easily via welding, although soldering is preferred for steel -- and that's even easier than welding.

As someone noted recently on SurvivalBlog, bicycle tubing can be relatively easily dismantled. If you want to carry an emergency stash of silver dimes or quarters or cartridges, for example, you can wrap it in something to insulate it (keep it from rattling) and stuff it down the seat post, in the handlebars, etc. If it's in the handlebars, it'll be even easier to access. Put the same mass in each end so it doesn't unbalance the bike's steering.

If you plan to use a trailer, practice riding the bike with the trailer loaded, whether it's with a child or supplies. And make sure some of the practice rides are done with the people you plan to evacuate with. I haul my daughter around in a bicycle trailer frequently. We live close to stores, my wife's office and other necessary stops, so we commute by bike when possible. It's free (now that I have the bicycle) and I get some exercise. Recently my wife and I tried to take a ride together to the grocery store and she repeatedly got in front of me and stopped quickly, not realizing that with an extra 60 pounds of weight behind me, I wasn't able to stop as quickly as she could. Also, at times my 3-year-old has managed to unbuckle her restraints, open the front of the trailer, and attempt to jump out. Plan ahead, know what you're getting yourself into, and remediate as necessary. I am currently working on a fix to the child buckle situation. That kid is ingenious.

One minor correction: Banjo says tire rubber "actually ages just from exposure to air, so if you are really serious you can put a bunch of tires, tubes, and rim bands in a 55-gallon drum or something with nitrogen (sold at car-parts places to fill tires with) or at least an oxygen absorber." Actually, bicycle racers sometimes purchase a stockpile of tires and intentionally let them age in a dark, dry environment. Aged tires are much more puncture resistant and long-lasting. Some of their elasticity goes away and they may not have the same non-slick qualities as a new tire, but they last. On my most recent bike, for example, I left one old tire mounted and replaced the other immediately due to obvious damage. Since then, I have replaced the new one twice due to wear, and fixed about 12 punctures on tubes for it. The old tire, which was probably 15-20 years old, hasn't had a problem of any sort.

If nothing else, a bicycle is good transportation. I've personally done up to 140 miles per day on one while touring, but that was 26 years ago when I was significantly older. But if all else fails, you can also use the chain drive much as you would the power-take-off (PTO) on a tractor, to power a grain mill or many other tools, as JWR mentioned in his novel Patriots. I've even seen one used to operate a blender, if that's high on your list of priorities.

Best of luck. Buy something high quality if possible, use it often, and learn how to change a tire. If you live in an urban area, buy something ugly but mechanically sound so it won't get stolen, then get out there and ride. - JDC in Mississippi

CPT Rawles,
Though I enjoyed Banjo's article, I feel the article on survival bikes was a bit too narrow-sighted in scope. First, Presta valves are a completely viable option in a Shrader world. Bike shops regularly carry brass and aluminum (which weigh next to nothing) Presta-Shrader adapters. These cost upwards of a
dollar and can be left on the bike so that you're never unable to fill at a gas station.
Secondly, Tire sizes (fat or skinny) have also come around. 29" bikes have been making a hit the past few years. The extra few inches really seems to make a difference in the ride, especially over uneven
terrain. If availability is an issue, buy several and keep them around.

Finally, don't overlook Craigslist. I've found plenty of deals (like my own hard tail 29") for a third of the original price. Many people rushed out to get the latest 29" bike, and it has sat in their garage
since.

Thank you, - Jim in Wyoming

Lots of people are getting out of their cars and onto bikes these days, because of the high cost of gasoline , parking hassles, and concerns about staying physically fit. When natural disasters or terrorist acts strike, people repeatedly find that a good bicycle is a fine thing to have. On a "bang for the buck" basis, the bicycle is one of the finest travel machines Mankind has devised. When the motor vehicle was still in its infancy, armies the world over were putting their troops on bicycles. The armies knew they could move a lot of soldiers, with gear, impressive distances in impressively short times.

I highly recommend bicycles as part of your preps. A bike for each member of your family or group is best, and having ridden around on them quite a bit, I have some definite opinions on what's best to look for in a "survival bike". It should be durable, comfortable, versatile, and easy to work on. I should note that my experience is in the US, so if you're outside the US you might want to translate what I recommend to your local area. But I think the kind of bike I recommend is fairly universal.

First, any bike is better than no bike at all. Secondly, your survival bike should be one you're familiar with, ride often, and are comfortable on. It will be your every-day, or at least one of your everyday bikes. If you have more than one it may be your "winter bike", or the one you do grocery errands on, or putt around on your local trails or unpaved roads. Consider it a mule who's an old friend who you can always count on.

So, what's best to get? Let's work from the wheels up. These days you'll see a lot of skinny bikes with skinny wheels and little, skinny, tire valves. These skinny ones are called Presta, generally need a different pump head, are more complicated to use, and are generally on skinny wheels on the kind of bikes I don't favor. We don't need to win a bike race here, and we don't need European-standard valves. I also say avoid the old skinny-tire 10-speeds, the one your Dad may have bought in the 1960s and left you, for instance. These have Schrader-valve wheels, but they're an older standard for "vintage" skinny-tire bikes, and tires and tubes can be hard to find, in limited choices, these days. Leave all this skinny-tire stuff to the racers, messenger kids, and vintage-bike enthusiasts. Stick with the Schrader valve, the Schrader valve is found on car tires, pumps that fit it are found everywhere, and in the US it's by far the most common, proven, and user-friendly valve type.

What I recommend is, you get a bike that has 26" wheels. That's the standard in the US and is found on cruisers, a lot of "city" or "commuter" bikes, and on the tons and tons of mountain bikes that are out there. You want something you can get tires and tubes for everywhere, fill up just about anywhere, and there are pumps widely available.

An older mountain bike is what I recommend. What goes under the name "mountain bike" these days is most often something I'd avoid. The reason is, almost all of them have suspension, springs and shock absorbers, on them. Those are to be avoided. They have their place, but on a general-purpose bike all they do is make the ride mushy, wasting your pedal-power, make the bike heavier, and add complication and expense. Sure, they cushion the bumps, but that's what pneumatic tires were invented for. The high-end bikes are very expensive, and made for "downhill" riding, going fast and bouncing over stuff. You won't do that with your bike, you'll lift it over that log etc. The big-box store cheapo mountain bikes are made to look "hi-tech" and are heavy, inefficient, and really not much fun to ride. Any big-box store bike isn't going to last, and at their low cost they're still too expensive. This is why I like older, "hard-tail", mountain bikes. When mountain bikes were a new thing, people were willing to pay a premium price for them. Also, the manufacturers weren't sure how roughly they'd be treated, so they tended to build them really well. This was the age of quality steel frames (look for Cromoly or Cro-Mo, on a sticker on the frame) with lugged construction which means at every joining point, the steel is double-thickness. Look up "lugged bicycle frame" on a search engine's images, it's a very handy thing to know how to identify.

These older, non-suspension mountain bikes have often been living in garages for a decade or two, and since a lot of people don't appreciate what they are, you can get them reasonably. They often have stainless-steel spokes on the wheels, and often the wheels are made by Araya, a Japanese wheel maker well-known for making motorcycle wheels. These are signs of quality to look for. In fact as a rule-of-thumb, if the spokes aren't stainless-steel, pass on it. Stainless spokes will have a dullish shine and feel smooth when you run your fingers down them.

I recommend garage sales and thrift stores and so on for price, over Internet sites because I feel the prices trend high on sites where someone has to go through some effort to list it and describe it, and likewise there's a large, well-informed public scanning the ads. You want the bike that gets pulled out for the garage sale "because we've had that old thing forever" and so on. Just remember: look for quality.

You'll want to look into bike fit, seats, various rack and pannier systems, etc. You can go fancy on racks, but the humble folding wire jobs that hang off of a rear rack are better than nothing by far. At the high end you have Ortlieb panniers, and then there are many types of homemade panniers made out of buckets and ammo boxes and so on. There are lots of plans online. A basket on the front looks a bit nerdy but they're extremely useful. Put one on and you'll wonder how you got by without it. Trailers, and those made by Burley are generally the best, are an additional thing. You can carry 100 pounds in a Burley Nomad, for instance. Again, look for them used, as they're quite pricey new.

Now some more about tires and tubes and wheels. After all, they really are where the rubber meets the road! First, you may have heard of a product called Slime. If you have "goat head" (Tribulus terrestris) weeds growing in your area, Slime is going to be a must-have. You can get tubes with it already installed, or you can put it in - the directions on the bottle are very easy to follow. You should know how to fix a flat anyway, and 26" wheels seem to be about the easiest to work on, as far as changing out tires and tubes. I recommend learning how to patch a tube, using the old-school patch kit with the "vulcanizing" cement in the little tube. Tubes are expensive these days! I'm about to go back to my old rule from my college days: Re-tire a tube after three patches.

Used bicycle tubes are extremely useful for all kinds of uses, so don't throw 'em out. For tires, with Slime, the tires you get with the bike should be fine, assuming they're not old and dried out (look for cracking in the sides of the tires). There are some highly regarded tires with Kevlar in them for hard usage like touring, or police-bicycle work, like the Schwalbe Marathon. If you've got to have "the" tires and have the budget, by all means get 'em. But you can get tires in all price ranges. Don't forget rim-bands, which are little strips of rubber or plastic that cover the nipples (bases) of the spokes inside the rim - uncovered, those will eventually wear through the tube and give you a flat. Remember that the tube needs a little TLC; if you get a flat, you must remember to check the tire to make sure the thorn, piece of glass, etc., that caused the flat isn't still in the tire.

You can buy bike stuff in a bike shop of course, and it's good to patronize your local bike shop just like any small business. But if you're on a budget or stocking up, that big 'Mart can't be beat. Or your local hardware store. There's a large population of people who go around by bike and are on a budget, and "dime stores" and their descendants generally have a bike department with basic tires, tubes, lights, all the things utilitarian riders need.

I suggest stocking up things that wear, like tires, tubes, grips, rim-bands, seats, pedals, cables, brake pads, all kinds of "consumables". Tires don't store well in the sun, so a dark part of the garage is much better. The rubber actually ages just from exposure to air, so if you are really serious you can put a bunch of tires, tubes, and rim bands in a 55-gallon drum or something with nitrogen (sold at car-parts places to fill tires with) or at least an oxygen absorber.

I want you to get the best bang for your buck, so I really suggest you check garage sales, church sales, places like that for bikes and parts. Lots of small things like a decent seat ... that'll run you a minimum of $20 at a bike shop and often quite a bit more, are often found looking for a home at a garage or church sale for a few dollars. Grips, tubes, really every little part, will show up at bargain-basement prices. What I'm leery of and think you should be, is the large commercially-run "swap meet" or "flea market" because a lot of stolen bikes show up at those. You can being a smartphone and check against the listings on the National Bike Registry (NationalBikeRegistry.com) but what if the owner didn't register theirs? You just can't tell. One suggestion is to get a bill of sale and take a photo of the seller's driver's license, and if they won't let you do that, steer clear. Be careful in the jungle of deals-too-good-to-be-true.

Helmets are a personal choice in most areas, also in a lot of areas they're not a choice if you're a minor. I'm not going to recommend buying a used "lid", fortunately there are a lot of them out there new at reasonable prices. A more expensive helmet may be lighter, cooler in hot weather, or the one worn by this year's World champion, but it's not necessarily any safer than a sensibly-priced one. The one opinion I have about helmets is, if you wear one, might as well get a light-colored one, like yellow. It will increase your visibility to drivers, although in tough times you may not want to be seen so easily. That's when you get out the camo tape.

Lastly, if you have to visit one bike site online, check out Sheldon Brown's site. Sheldon has passed and will be missed, but his bike shop has kept his work online because it's so helpful, friendly, and comprehensive. In fact it can be almost overwhelming so the other resources I recommend are videos on YouTube, and classes, generally free, held by your local bike shop or bike club.

Short and sweet:

* Bikes have moved armies, officially and un-officially. They can move you.
* 26" wheels, with Schrader valves, by far the most common in the US; that's desirable.
* Get an older mountain bike, no suspension, Cro-Moly frame, stainless steel spokes.
* Learn to use Slime
* You can build a fine stable of bikes from thrift, garage, and church sales.
* Stock up on consumables, like tubes and tires.
* There are a few things you always buy new. Bike helmets are one of them.
* Learn more from Sheldon Brown, YouTube, local shops, clubs, and groups.

There has been a lot of debate over whether or not to remain in place or to leave your home and retreat to another location within the prepper community. Both have their advantages and disadvantages but that is not the scope of this article. I simply want to address the moment that all of us may come to, both the bug-in crowd, when they realize their initial plan is untenable, or the bug-out crowd, when they have made their decision to move to “higher ground.”
We all remember the game “Red Light, Green Light”, we played as kids and tried to outsmart the signal caller and get to our “destination” without the caller catching us. If we take this same approach and label the “signal caller” the economy/collapse, I feel we can apply the same basic principles to our decision making process in regard to leaving our current location for our safe haven, retreat, bug out location, etc.

Several years ago I was driving home with my family from a wedding we had attended in Chicago. On the morning of our departure, there had been a fairly strong storm the night before that dumped a lot of water on the I-80/I-90 corridor. The weather was clear in the morning and when we left at 0800 in the morning for our return trip to PA, we had no idea what we were in for as the Interstate had become impassable on the east bound lanes. I am not one prone to panic but there was a growing uneasiness in the pit of my stomach as I realized we were in for a very long delay. As it turned out, the highway was closed for a majority of the day as the water had flooded certain sections out. Whether by dumb luck or by the grace of God (I choose the latter), I decided we needed to turn around and get off the highway pronto. I was in the far right lane and saw a cut in the retaining wall several hundred yards up and needed to get over quickly but this was problematic since it was a 4-lane highway which had become a parking lot. The long and short of it was I was able to inch over, very slowly, and get to the turn around and head west bound to re-assess our plan and get off the highway. This episode is one that will likely repeat itself throughout the country in the event of a catastrophe, man-made or natural disaster, and solidified my belief that I don’t want to be anywhere near a scenario like this if it does occur.  We got off the highway, made our way south to Route 30, but that was blocked as well due to the influx of the I-80 traffic doing the same thing we were doing. We finally made it all the way to the Indianapolis bypass before we could head east towards Pennsylvania. We arrived 14 hours later at midnight at our home, completely exhausted, when a normal trip should have taken us 8 hours. With three small children in the car who were thankfully sound asleep, my mind was made up that I would never again consciously put my family in a position like that and have since then thought long and hard about what I need to do to protect my family when we travel long distances; both before a SHTF event and even more so after that. The event shook me to my very core, not because we were close to any dangerous situations, but because it illuminated how quickly a situation can change from a normal family trip into one of potential disaster.

What I did wrong on that return trip was fail to plan. I had no extra food or water in the car, I did not have a full tank of gas when I left Chicago (I was just going to fill up on the highway when I left) and I had no means to protect my family if the situation required it since I didn’t even have a handgun with me. I was traveling to Chicago which has the most restrictive gun laws in the country. With that said, I do not see myself traveling to the Windy City ever again with my family until the gun laws are changed in favor of concealed reciprocity.  Although nothing happened during the trip, it made me realize how fragile the thin veneer of normalcy is in this country and how quickly it can turn into a volatile situation; putting you and your family at risk.
A lot of preppers have an exfiltration plan from their current situation to a safe haven if the SHTF and we are no different but we all need to drill down on our plans and ensure they are workable in a less-than-desirable socioeconomic catastrophe. Our plan is to bug-in but we have an alternate plan to bug-out to western South Dakota where we have extended family and a large self-sufficient ranch. The only problem is getting there in one piece. How do we do this? I have asked myself this very question and have come up with some ideas and wanted to share them with your readers and also look for feedback as I know that no plan survives the first volley of shots fired.

When will I go? This is what gave me the idea for the title of this article. Presently I can see three types of scenarios that involve traveling. The first level of travel is our current social situation, which I will call a “green light” scenario. There is little to no impediment to travel across the US with the exception of high fuel costs but essentially, if you want to, you can load up and drive from coast to coast. This will not last forever. Whether by man-made or artificial catastrophes, a pre-planned False Flag or Black Swan event, at some point in the future, our ability to travel freely within this country may very well be curtailed. This is the gray area of the decision making process. Obviously we would like to be able to pick up and go at our leisure but that is simply not realistic unless you are able to see into the future so I will concentrate on the “yellow light” scenario which is that some event has triggered a less than optimal travel scenario within the US and you will not have complete access to fuel, food, water and the expectation of security so you need to plan for that contingency. The “red light” scenario is one in which travel is essentially prohibited either by law, force or instability and there would be no expectation of being able to make it from point A to point B so I will concentrate on the yellow light scenario and the assumption that you are ready, willing and able to make this monumental move before it is too late.

Where will I go if I have to leave in rapid fashion? This is based on the premise that you have decided to leave your present location and move to a safer haven. If an apocalyptic event transpires, the looting and mayhem that happened during Hurricane Katrina and the Los Angeles riots will look like child’s play. Have an exfil plan from wherever you live, to a place of safety and make the decision to leave early and DO NOT WAIT UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE. Remember, this is a move to a place where you are going to settle for a long period of time. Family and friends who live in the country, away from large cities,  and who have land are your best bet but you must make arrangements with them well beforehand. Do not show up on their doorstep without talking to them about your plans long before you leave, and make sure they have agreed to this arrangement as well. Also, do not show up empty-handed if at all possible.  This may not be possible but as a prepper, you are doing your family a disservice if you are not ready to make a large scale move with your provisions from your present location to you safe haven. Think about how you will embark all your gear and move to your new location and have your family do at least a dry-run through.  The time to find out that you need an essential piece of equipment is not when you are doing this in prime time. The pre-planning for this move is probably the most crucial aspect of your entire relocation. Going back to my Chicago incident, had we simply looked at the local news or weather channel, we would have saved ourselves several hours even if the trip would have taken longer. We never would have gone near the interstate had we simply planned ahead. Bottom line, have a plan on where you are going to go, what are you going to bring, how are you going to transport it and when are you going to make the decision to leave?                 

What will I do for reliable transportation? This exodus will most likely be accomplished in caravans like the wagon trains out in the old west except this time it will be SUVs and trailers. You will need to plan for food/fuel & water from your location to where you want to go and you need to be able to do it without the aid of gas stations/rest stops or any other modern day convenience (remember, this is yellow light time).  Although there may be gas available while you travel due to multiple circumstances and the type of SHTF event that you are preceding or escaping from, you should absolutely plan for a self-contained move with no outside assistance. If the assistance is there, fine, but don’t make it a lynchpin of your plan or it will fail. For my own family, I will travel west to South Dakota where we have extended family. It’s about 1,500 miles from our home so I have to answer the question; how do I refuel along the way? You do not want to carry fuel in your car and to travel that kind of distance would require more fuel than there is room in the vehicle. In addition it is highly dangerous to do this, even in the trunk. I would recommend getting a small trailer capable of towing 1,500 to 2,000 lbs and make sure your hitch has the same capacity. Inside or on your trailer, you will need a fuel storage/delivery system that allows you to refuel quickly. 55 gallon drums are relatively cheap so I would probably need two of them to make the trip. Calculate your mileage, divide by the worst gas mileage your vehicle gets and that gives you the number of gallons you need. For me its 1,500 miles divided by 15 mpg = 100 gallons. (2) 55 gallon drums will give you 110 gallons so it should do it. For me, I would add 20-30% for detours and carry 150 gallons minimum to get me where I was going. If you want to go the path of least resistance and buy the red Jerry cans, that’s 30 containers to make 150 gallons. Although simple, it is not optimal in my opinion. I have been practicing refueling with them on a regular basis and they do have some drawbacks. First, they leak, plain and simple. No matter what you do, they will leak a little and sometimes a lot if you get the nozzle twisted around while refueling. Secondly, there is the storage requirement of 30 red 5-gallon fuel cans and most garages don’t have the room for that many and everything else we have stored in there. Can it be done, sure, but I think there are better ways, especially if you have the time to plan. Regardless of what container(s) you will use, I recommend that you buy a simple pump attachment for your fuel container and run a hose from the fuel to your gas tank. This avoids a lot of spillage with the “lift and hold in place for several minutes until the fuel can is empty” routine. I have a local Tractor Supply store which carries simple hand-cranked pumps and electrical ones as well. Using the Rawlesian computation of 2 is 1 and 1 is none, having multiple ways to pump fuel is probably a good plan to have!

I will travel with my 5 x 8 enclosed trailer with a towing capacity of 3k lbs. so I can bring more gear with me. (3) 55 gallon drums will weigh approximately 1300 lbs. so I’d have an extra 1700lbs to play with for supplies. As an alternative, you may have a vehicle in your convoy that does not have a trailer but is still part of the overall plan. I have a 2’ x 6’ platform trailer that hooks into my trailer hitch. The sides of this platform are 5” tall and can carry (12) 5-gallon Jerry Cans totaling 60 gallons. With a full 15 gallon internal capacity, I can travel 1125 miles on just what I carry on the platform combined with internal fuel and would only need 20-30 more gallons to make it to our destination. The additional fuel you carried in your trailer could easily make up this shortcoming.  In the military, we called this war-gaming; thinking of every possible thing that could happen and coming up with a plan to deal with it. Have everyone take turns acting as the “doubting Thomas” and have them try to shoot holes in your plan. If it is apparent that your plans need adjusting, make it so.

Do not travel anywhere near big cities (remember my Chicago episode!). Only use the stretches of highways and Interstates where they do not go near cities like New York, Chicago, etc. My route out west, by the shortest route, takes me right near Chicago but I will bypass to the south and add upwards of 200-300 extra miles just to stay safe. I expect the cities to be congested and potentially dangerous. In addition, always have an alternate plan that gives you the ability to change routes along the way with little backtracking required. This may require some detailed planning and I would even recommend that a few persons in the group travel the route and do a route reconnaissance beforehand. Let’s say you are traveling through Iowa on your way to Wyoming and the American Redoubt and realize that your original route is blocked or less than safe. Turning around and executing a “shift on the fly” route change should not be the first time you execute this. Practice it beforehand so you get the feel for how much time and effort it will take to get a 3 to 4 vehicle convoy going in another direction. Have each vehicle ‘commander’ take turns in executing a route change so everyone is comfortable in that position if the need arises for them to take over the navigation responsibilities.

What will I do for security? Bottom line, more crowds = more potential danger. Do not travel as a single family if at all possible. In the novel The Raggedy Edge by Michael Turnlund, there is an episode when the husband and his wife are trying to move through a roadblock and he has to make the decision to have his wife drive while he shoots from the passenger window. Don’t let this happen to you and plan for this contingency and how you are going to deal with it. If you have a convoy, you can set up a hasty blocking position and have a designated element envelop the trouble spot from the sides while the rest of the convoy sets up a base of fire.  Some of you may be reading this and saying to yourself, “I can’t handle this type of situation” and while that may well be true, you need to have individuals within your convoy who are capable of dealing with this situation or your bug-out to your safe haven may be cut very short.

If a catastrophic meltdown does happen, there will probably be rogue elements that would prey on families and take their food, fuel and gear. Think: Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome. I would travel in as large an SUV as I could and have a minimum of 2-3 other vehicles that were going to the same place or area. Remember there is safety in numbers. If you already know who you might want to travel with you, start getting together on a regular basis to discuss your evacuation plan, much like someone in a flood zone, hurricane alley, etc. Sit down with them and discuss everything that could go wrong and have a plan to deal with it. The more prepared your group is, the easier it will be to make the decision to evacuate. Discuss emergencies, vehicle breakdowns, health issues, food, water, weapons, ammunition, and fuel. A previous article on Survival Blog discussed convoy security and this should be part of everyone’s plan. Don’t just talk about it, exercise you plan on smaller trips to uncover any potential problems you may have missed during the planning stages. Discuss how you will deal with a catastrophic vehicle breakdown where you might have to leave one behind. Also, now is not the time to discuss the issue of firearms and the right to bear arms. Deal with it, everyone will be packing heat and everyone will know it too. That’s not a bad thing. My guess is that a lot of folks will be scared but at the same time, we are a nation of mostly law abiding citizens, so take comfort in the fact that a lot of people are in the same boat. Always be cautious but do not be afraid to help someone who obviously needs it. This will be the cornerstone of the communities that will rise up from the ashes of this national emergency. 
Since everyone will need more human power to work their land and provide security, most reasonable and logical persons will understand the efficacy of allowing you to join them at their safe haven. This is where you trade your labor for a safe haven, a place to live, and the fruits that the land bears but negotiating on their doorstep when you show up un-announced is not the appropriate time to do this. Make sure they know you are coming so they can prepare as much as you should have!

What will I do for communications? Make sure that you have a communication plan and the ability to talk to those within your caravan. And do not rely on a single point of failure system either. Have a back-up and a back-up to the back-up. Cell phones will not necessarily be reliable if the power grid goes down but the portable walkie-talkie type radios will be invaluable. Some forward thinking folks may have SatPhones which, unless the Chinese shoot down our satellites, should work during this period. This is not to say that they will always operate. Whatever form of government remains may not have the ability to maintain a system of satellites that we currently have but it’s worth it if you have the money to purchase them now. The government may also be less than accepting of the type of communication that is going on via the grid and try to shut it down as well. If you live in a place where you absolutely know you will not stay in the event of a societal meltdown, send a SatPhone to the place where you will go and have your family and friends on both ends practice with and test the system to make sure it will work for you.  I will use the MURS hand held radios and have a full set of cheap walkie-talkies as a back-up (in addition to cell phones). That’s three modes of digital communications in addition to hand and arms signals. I would also recommend that you buy good quality headsets that have either a push-to-talk (PTT) capability or voice actuated (VOX) for hands free comm. I flew helicopters in the military and the VOX capability is a force multiplier in the cockpit since it is a multi-tasking nightmare at times.

What will you do if your transportation breaks down? Make sure you have a complete extra wheel/tire combo, not just the tire. If you get a flat, you will not have access to a garage to change your tire. I would have two extra wheels/tires as well as enough Fix-a-flat to re-inflate several tires. Remember to be completely self-sustainable and walk-through all the potential hazards of a long trip that you would normally take but add to this the fact that you cannot count on any water, food, or logistical support outside of what you can carry in/on or behind your vehicles. Several companies make roof racks that are specifically designed for carrying maintenance, camping, and survival gear and can easily be adapted to carrying tires and wheels as well. You may look like the Beverly Hillbillies but you are much less likely to be stranded on the road with an immobile vehicle. In addition, let’s make sure to practice changing a tire on the side of the road prior to having to do it in an in-extremis situation for the first time.

What should I do about carrying weapons? Some of you may be worried about carrying weapons in your car. If this scenario goes down, this will be out the window as law enforcement officials are just like you, they have families and concerns of their own and will not be worried about what is inside your vehicle if it is obvious you are relocating your family to a safer place. If it makes you feel better, apply for a concealed-carry permit.  The scenario that may be of a gray area will be if you have decided to bug-out well in advance of the collapse and it will be relatively easy travel to your safe haven. In this event, I would not advertise the fact that you are carrying an arsenal in your vehicles but make sure you have the ability to defend yourself and your family should the need arises. This will be a call on your part depending on when you leave.

With the exception of Illinois, New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, and a few other states, a state concealed carry permit is recognized in many other states. In addition, the US House has passed its version of the nation-wide concealed carry reciprocity bill, H.R. 822, the National Right-to-Carry Reciprocity Act of 2011. If the Senate passes it we will get a clear indication from the current occupant of the White House whether or not he supports the rights of gun owners across this country. I have a Pennsylvania concealed carry permit and an out of state non-resident permit, and I could drive all of the way to South Dakota and still be in accordance with state laws, with the exception of Illinois, with a loaded weapon in my car. Remember, your family’s safety is your primary concern. Do not let anything deter you.

At this point in time we are in a “Green Light” scenario in regard to CONUS travel but it will most likely not last indefinitely.  Start planning your exodus now and do not leave any details unattended or they will come back to bite you in the rumpus! Have a place already picked out, stage as much gear and supplies there as is humanly possible and work towards completing a self-contained move that includes all aspects of the move; vehicles, fuel, food, water, supplies, security, and communications. While this is not an exhaustive list by any stretch, it should give you a starting point. Blessings to all and Semper Prep.

James,
Regarding the ability to store a fuel reserve onboard the vehicle;  Before your readers consider an expensive custom military fuel tank (which may not meet DOT standards), they many want to consider an option that is already approved by the DOT and is very affordable.
 
As a race car and off-road truck enthusiast I’ve participated in many events where cars/trucks must meet Department of Transportation (DOT) certification before the vehicle can compete.  A majority of the “modified” vehicles run gasoline and use aftermarket fuel tanks of various sizes.  Depending on the style of racing many of the tanks have baffles to prevent “sloshing” and spilling, as well as mounting brackets to keep them secure in the event of a crash.  The sizes of these tanks range from 2 quarts to 45 gallons, with everything in between.  The fuel cells I’m referring to do not operate the same way a Home Depot fuel can does, and instead have a filler hole and at least one pre installed pickup tube where the liquid is pumped or drained into the engine.  I could envision a system that drains via gravity or a pump into the primary fuel tank when needed.
 
A word of advice to anyone considering mounting an auxiliary tank in the interior of their car (including trunk), gasoline does have a fairly low vapor pressure, which causes it to turn to a gas (vapor) form easier then diesel or water for example.  This effectively will cause a sealed tank to become pressurized in the heat, and an unsealed tank to emit lots of fumes.  These fumes are what causes gas to be more flammable than some other petroleum products.  In the old days, this problem was solved by simply venting the tank to the outside of the vehicle via a hose and a check valve. Regulations vary by year of vehicle, but generally do not allow for a tank to be vented into the atmosphere without either a carbon filter or through the combustion process.  I’d recommend you visit your local reputable mechanic for specifics about your application.  Hint:  a local reputable race car builder is a good place to start asking questions. They are usually fountains of knowledge and are much easier to talk with than a factory dealer mechanic.
 
A good place to start looking for these tanks would be either SummitRacing.com, or Jegs.com.  Both of these companies have excellent customer service and have been around for many years.  Look for “fuel cells”.  Prices range from ~$35 to ~$250.  While you are at it, peruse their catalogs.  These companies have many other automotive parts that could make your vehicle both more reliable and robust.  By the way, I don’t work for either of them and don’t have any financial benefit.
 
Whatever you decide, do it correctly and stay safe. - Race Fan from Colorado

JWR:
Can you recommend a way to properly store 1-2 gallons of fuel in a trunk for emergencies?

I think something like a Kolpin Fuel Pack with some Sta-Bil in it would last in a confined space for an extended (3-6 months) period of time.

All The Best, - Travis R.

JWR Replies: For regular carry in a car trunk, there are just a few truly safe containers that will prevent your car from becoming a veritable flaming bomb, in the event of a major rear-end collision. One that I can indeed recommend is the Explosafe can. And FWIW, I prefer Pri-G as a fuel stabilizer.

Mr. Rawles,
For those considering the purchase of winter tires, a good web site with demonstrations comparing the performance of different vehicle types (including all wheel drive) with and without these tires from the Rubber Association of Canada.

Survival experts have also advised against consuming snow as a water source. Les Stroud, a Canadian survival expert, has demonstrated that if engaged in physical activity, such as walking, the consumption of snow when necessary is safe as metabolic heat offsets the cold snow. Some have survived in Arctic conditions doing this. However, it is still not safe when hunkered down.

Best Regards, - S.R.

Long-distance Commuters face challenges. I average 20 days at work per month.  During those days, I am away from home for 11.5 hours.   Unless the Crunch starts conveniently on a Saturday morning, before I can survive the end of the world as I know it I have to get home.     

My daily commute carries me 35 miles each way.  Sometimes while sitting in traffic I’m reminded of real life – and fictional – disaster situations looking a lot like what I face each day; miles and miles of bumper-to-bumper traffic congestion.  The defining difference is this: My traffic jam eventually clears and I motor-on my way towards wife and kids and dog.  And two cats.      

Lately my thoughts push me towards my need to return home in the event of the worst – specifically, planning for accommodating my trip.   Before I can bug-in at my homestead, I have to get there! Before I can work to provide comfort and safety for my family, I have to reach home. If the roads were closed or blocked just how would I manage? Living in Southeast Michigan for several years, I have seen the weather change pretty quickly.  Even if my winter vehicle has the ability to traverse deep snow covered roads, local authorities have the power to determine roads “Impassible”, stranding me away from the homestead.  

Apart from winter hazards, commuters face a multitude of potential challenges, from massive traffic accidents, terror attack – recall the streams of pedestrians evacuating downtown New York City on 11 September 2001 – or natural disasters.  Below you will find tips to prepare yourself and your vehicle for the commute from hell.  Driving: Take serious consideration in your commuter – remember a car not properly equipped, or lacking other capabilities gets great fuel economy, while stuck on the side of the road.  In my 14mpg pick-up hurts my wallet at fuel-up however worth more to me is the security presented by having a greater chance of making it home through all kinds of weather.     

During winter season, as defined by the daily high temperatures not exceeding about 40 degrees, I swap my summer all-season/all terrain tires on my F150 4x4 SuperCrew with dedicated-winter tires. Providing additional weight over the drive wheels is a water bladder, filled to approximately 400lbs of water, secured to the floor of the pick-up bed.      Late February of 2011 I flew from the Detroit area for deployment to Iraq.   I was under orders – I could not simply call-in sick.   The night I left, the Detroit Metro area was hit with significant snow storm.  With a solid foot of snow falling around us, the truck performed flawlessly – bringing me and my family to the airport, and providing my wife and kids safe return home.   The benefits of ground clearance and proper winter tire combined in a way either of the two alone could not.   I passed dozens of compact and other passenger cars stuck on the road, even trucks with large off-road and mud-terrain tires spun helplessly on the slick roads.     

I often hear a common misconception – “My car goes well in the snow”.  Not true, mostly.  Your car’s TIRES go through the snow well. Tires are often over-looked because the summer or all-seasons currently on the vehicle “have good tread left”.  Tread compound and tread designed specifically for winter and cold-weather driving conditions is the best way to ensure safe travel.  More than simply having the power to take off from a stop, winter tires provide stopping and turning power.  Often winter-specific tires can stop in half the distance of summer or all-season tires.  Even the best all-season tires will stop many feet later than winter-specific tires – but sometimes even a few feet can mean the difference between a collision with another car, obstacle, or person, and prevention of those impacts.      

Tornadoes are not unheard-of in my area – wind damage to infrastructure is inevitable.  Deciding to commute in a vehicle with all or four-wheel drive, and offering as much ground clearance as possible will enable me to overcome standing or running water across roadways (while avoiding those obstacles is ideal, sometimes there is no choice), or limbs or other debris across the roadway.   I also live 1.4 miles from the nearest paved road – in the worst kind of weather, my road is not maintained. Getting home means getting muddy.  Packing for worst-case: In addition to common items – jumper cables, Tylenol/aspirin, extra food, gasoline, water, folding knife, small tool kit, first-aid kit and blanket, Meal, Ready-to-eat; a ¾ full re-usable water bottle (to allow for freezing temperatures), extra socks, scarf, gloves, hat, basic first aid kit, sunglasses, small disposable lighter, 50ft of 550 cord, military surplus thermals, and plastic rain poncho will work to keep me prepared for either driving or walking home.   I purchased a pair of Army surplus aviator gloves; the Nomex™ construction will provide some flame protection in the event of an accident or rescue, while thin enough preventing significant finger/hand dexterity loss. All items fit nicely in my Oakley “Kitchen Sink” backpack.    Military members can order their Kitchen Sink pack via usstandardissue.com's Military purchase program for substantial savings.     

I also created homemade fire-starters using make-up removing cotton patches, dipped in melted candle wax, and left to dry on a wire rack over a sheet-pan.   After bundling the tender, rip one of the wax-coated patches to expose the cotton fibers.  Apply flame from the lighter and within about a minute I have a sustainable flame that holds enough flame to ignite even damp branches, sticks, and debris. A head-mounted lamp will help with vehicle repairs or path illumination should I be forced to abandon my vehicle.      Using the head-worn lamp brings freedom to use my arms to carry other items, support, or defend myself.  The lamp also serves to signal others if I become in need of assistance due to injury or attack.   I tend to forget to check the batteries of all my stored emergency electronic devices – do not follow my example as an unlit lamp shines on no path.  A good reminder – every time I change my car’s wiper blades, I re-inventory my supplies. 

Alternative routes:     Most days I follow the same route to work and home again.  While shopping for my house I became familiar with my area – I know which roads connect to the road that leads me home.   One day, every other month or so, I take a new way home – even the LONG way.  I do this to remain up to date with road closures, detours, construction, and traffic density.  In the event of the worst-case scenario, the popular roads will likely become clogged with vehicles and pedestrians sticking to the familiar.  Knowing which side streets connect to where affords some relief and ease of access to other roads leading home. One thing to remember – if you think of a short cut, chances are somebody else has too!  Avoiding the shortest route, in terms of distance or time to complete, may end up being faster due to less congestion.  Alternative Transportation:     Even my truck’s 6.5ft-long bed is large enough to hold a bicycle.  Placing a mountain bike in the truck bed, and securing with a normal bike lock and cable can provide a much-faster way home, should stuff hit the fan.   Again, do not forget to maintain the emergency bike – ensure your bike has air in the tires and inner tube patching equipment along with a means to pump air into a repaired tube. 

Walking:      While a soldier, I learned first-hand the benefits of Leather Personnel Carriers (LPCs) as a mode of transport.  Facing a 35 mile walk home, maintaining a pair of broken-in, comfortable and durable boots is vital.   Buying a pair of great hiking boots or shoes, and placing them in your car for emergencies might lead to debilitating blistering, rubbing, or aching – hindering the trek.     

Sure to be in a hurry to reach my family, I cannot forget to stretch my muscles before, during and after such a walk.  Slow and consistent plodding will take a toll on my feet, joints, and hips.  My back and shoulders will be sore carrying my backpack, too.   Nobody has to do 35 mile walks to prepare for a 35 mile walk in the worst conditions – however having a realistic view of one’s physical abilities will help in planning for such an endeavor.    

To ease the impact on feet, walk on the unpaved shoulder areas of the roads – a tip taught to me by my Drill Sergeants during Basic Training.   Using arms to swing and help momentum is effective towards covering ground.  In training, having marching cadence either playing on MP3-player with headphones, or recited from memory can help maintain an effective pace and breathing pattern.  [JWR Adds: When things go sideways, you would of course want full situational awareness, so ear buds would be a no-no.]  

Unless I am being chased, I must stop for rest periods.  These periods can be anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.  Word of caution – it is often easier to KEEP walking, than to START walking. As good as a rest may feel, the pain of starting again might be worse.    

Drinking water, even in cold temperatures is vital to success.  I cannot carry enough water to keep me for 35 miles; however I can work to ensure I maintain daily hydration and consume the water I carry. Ideally, one quart per hour - water cannot help if it is never consumed.  While on a march like this finding potable water is essential.  Options include groceries and gas stationed, if open - or even a friendly neighbor along the way.     

To fight one’s worst enemy – worry/distress – finding the right mindset is essential.   Embarking on a journey like this means hours and hours before reuniting.  Considering what you might find when you return home may serve as motivation to complete the walk.  When this consideration moves to worry, rushing and carelessness may lead to injury or worse.   When starting on a walk like this, making each mile, or route-marker as individual goals will prevent the hurry-ups, and might prevent hasty decisions.  Instead of ‘walking home’, I am only walking to “The freeway overpass a couple miles from here”.  The smaller goal is more achievable than the more-than-a-marathon distance awaiting me.  Focusing on the small task makes the big task achievable.     We live in a world where the worst can happen.  With the threats and capabilities of terrorists, and the fury of Mother Nature, we can no longer afford to ‘hope’ things work out.  Hope is not a viable strategy.  Through careful consideration we can take steps to mitigate the damage; with a practiced plan, we can establish alternatives to our situations – wherever circumstance – or our commute - places us. By planning ahead, we will help to ensure we make it to our loved ones during times of crisis.  

JWR,
I have been reading you blog and the letters other people has written for a few weeks now. A friend of mine turned me on to your site. Thank you and everyone else for all you do. I have learned much over the past few weeks and look forward to learning more as time goes on.
 
I just read the letter post in September by Greg G., Can You Take to the Sky? Greg makes some very valid and interesting points in his letter. Like Greg, I am a licensed pilot. I studied at a local community college earning my A.A.S. in management with aviation option. When I started the course I had no flying time what-so-ever. When I finished the course 1.5 years later, I had earned my commercial pilot’s certificate with multi-engine and instrument ratings.
 
Just to clarify, I am no longer active in aviation due to the high cost of building time necessary to “land” a job as a career pilot. Working line service at the local FBO (Fixed base operation) just didn’t pay the bills for a man, wife and two kids. When I could get a trip/time in a multi-engine aircraft, it was usually a free trip (meaning I provided my time and services free of charge) in order to build flying time. I gained a good bit of time in the air over a three year period and gained an enormous amount of self-confidence as a result. Just a little background to bring me to my point.
 
Greg states that the Cessna 172 would be an excellent BOV and I would tend to agree. They are reasonable priced from $30,000 to $50,000 and are relatively easy to maintain. I think the $5,000 annual figure he mentioned is fairly accurate. I am currently scouring the web for used aircraft. I am looking at C-172s as well as light sport to ultra-light aircraft. The only drawback to the ultra-light planes is that I would have to convince my wife to learn to fly and would have to have at least two two-seat aircraft  to use a BOVs. Of course, redundancy would be a good thing.
 
Greg also mentioned training. Training is paramount any time you plan to defeat gravity. If you are interested in getting an ultra-light aircraft, please get an experienced flight instructor to teach you to fly. Learn to operate in a controlled airport environment. If you are ever forced, through bad planning, bad weather, or just bad luck, into a metropolitan airport, you will be thankful for the training in that environment.
 
As far as getting your instrument rating is concerned, I would highly recommend the training. Even if you never use it, it will make you a better pilot and if the weather suddenly closes in on you, you will be better prepared to handle it. I remember during my instrument training, the instructor had me look out the windows during actual instrument conditions. All I could see was the wingtips and the nose of the airplane. When I returned to the instrument panel, I had a strong case of vertigo. Had I not spent hours in the flight simulator and had a few hours “under the hood”, I could have easily gotten disoriented enough to crash. Fortunately, I had complete faith in the instruments and was able to maintain control until the vertigo passed. For this reason, I would encourage anyone interested in learning to fly to take at least several hours of instrument training.
 
I have no experience with helicopters other than radio controlled helicopters. I can see some use, as mentioned in other letters, for UAV type surveillance using radio controlled aircraft but that would be the subject of another post. I do know full scale helicopters are maintenance intensive and expensive to learn and operate. If I could, I would learn just for the ability if I ever needed it.
 
God bless you and yours as well as this great nation, - Mike in Tennessee

Dear Editor:
Although land, sea, and aerial [unmanned vehicles] are available, for the purpose of survival ‘hobbyist’ surveillance from an aerial vehicle is the best option.  A land or sea based homemade ‘drone’ would have to be large to navigate even moderate terrain or choppy water and the larger the vehicle is the more costly, dangerous and obvious it is.  Aerial ‘drones’ on the other hand can be much smaller and unobtrusive.   When we refer to drones, what we are really speaking of just a radio controlled vehicle with perhaps some fancy telemetry.   Aerial drones come in two basic flavors, fixed wing and multi-copter.   I have experience building both as well as automated lawnmowers and snowplows. 

Fixed wing
A fixed wing UAV is really a radio control airplane.  There are thousands of models available, from palm sized to nearly full scale.  Power can come from a battery or even a small scale jet turbine.  The best format for a drone would be an inexpensive expanded foam model.  These foams can withstand full speed impacts with the ground with really no damage other than a broken propeller (trust me I know).   Skillfully built and operated, the fixed wing drone could stay aloft for hours and several thousand feet up.  Operation is nearly silent when at altitude.

Multi-copter
A multi-copter is just a helicopter with more than one rotor.  A Chinook is an example of a full scale multi-copter.  Multi-copters come in several formats, having from 3 to 12 motors on arms extending from the center. Kits are commercially available, or a good multi-copter can be scratch built at home.  Design can be very robust if proper materials are selected.  The strongest units are made from carbon fiber or aluminum, with motors oriented for redundancy.   My multi-copter is about 4 feet across, weighs 6 pounds, and can lift a 4 pound payload.  These are very versatile.  I can follow a car, land on a roof, even fly to my front window and look inside the house.  Multi-copter electronics are much more expensive than their fixed wing counterparts.  Careful consideration must be paid to electronics protection.

Autopilots 
This is a bit of a catch all term and can best be divided into stabilization and flight control.  For a fixed wing vehicle, stabilization can be done inexpensively with hobby gyros.  This will automatically correct the flight to straight and level after any deviation.  Flying is much more simple.  Flight control is added on top of stabilization.  Generally flight control is via GPS radios with waypoints programmed via a computer.   You end up with a radio controlled airplane that once launched will fly, to a point(s) and circle, take video, etc. and fly back.  Video feed is also possible, but even a cheap video camera will record nicely from the air.

For multi-copters stabilization is absolutely necessary.  Humans can not control anything this complex alone.  For a multi-copter  the stabilization essentially compiles  normal inputs, from a radio or flight controller,  along with gyro and accelerometer data from the vehicle.  The stabilization computer then calculates the desired speed for each motor.  Multi-copter stabilization is very effective.  I can literally shove my x8 multi-copter in flight and it simply autocorrects back to its original position and heading.    Multi-copter flight control is very similar to fixed wind control, via GPS waypoints, although ultrasonic range finders can be used indoors.   The stabilization in my multi-copter is capable of controlled flight in 25+ mph winds.
Please keep in mind that there are FAA and FCC rules governing radio control aircraft, drones and video downlink radios.

Uses
After months of tinkering, crashing and spending probably thousands of dollars, you will have a drone that will fly in a stable manner.  You will be able to control it with your radio and maybe you invested enough for a flight controller and video down link.  What do you do with this new toy?
Due to payload and range restrictions, an aerial drone is not suited for really anything other than surveillance/reconnaissance.  Honestly, in a survival scenario, my multi-copter in not even on the bug out list.  That is not to say that these things are useless to a prepper though.   I have video of my house and neighborhood.  I can easily fly above and look down undetected.  If I wanted to, I could peer into window on a high rise.  Whether bugging in, or at a retreat a bird’s eye view of your environment is very much a force multiplier, although I sometimes think a camera on a $10 kite with a long sting is an equivalent option. Regards, - Rockhound

Why should tyrannical, oppressive governments have all the fun with advanced technology?  How many of you reading this knew that for about $1,000 (about the cost of a good AR-15) that you could buy all the parts you needed to build your own drones?  Did you know that there are cutting edge companies that are even selling “all in one” kits to make your own drones?  Everyone is well-aware that drones have become a force-multiplier on the battle field.  They grant a lone ground force the ability of a degree of air-superiority, even if that superiority is only that of surveillance and the ability to see through the fog of war to a certain extent.  Imagine the implications this can have on the safety and security of your homestead?  Not to mention what a fun hobby this could be!

This essay is written to serve as an introduction to everyone about the possibilities of civilian drone technology.  You will need to do technical research on your own.  Please note, what you choose to do with your drone is your own business.  Make sure that you obey all local, state and federal laws regarding this technology.

What do you need to get started?
Head on over to DIYDrones.com.  This is a great web site that was created with the sole purpose of investigating the world of drone technology and how it can be utilized by the average civilian.  It has a great community to help you with all your questions.  According to the web site's editors, here is a list of what you will need to start your own DIY drones project. 

1.  You will need a vehicle.  DIYDrones.com there are instructions showing how to incorporate planes, helicopters, land-based and even water based vehicles into your drone system.
2. You will need an autopilot.  Autopilots are computer boards that control the mechanical functions of your drones.  You will need this item if you want to be able to program your drones to be autonomous and function on its own.  Autopilots typically include mission planning software to program your drones.
3. You will need a computer or laptop.  Most of us already posses one that can serve the purpose.
4. An optional payload system.  This could be anything from recording cameras, video transmission equipment, radio duplexers, to a message in a bottle.  More on this later.

It’s as simple as that.  The macro-components listed above are simple to gather and can be done under $1,000 (excluding computer).   This is enough to get you started in the world of drones’s.  Let’s take a look at highly suggested support equipment.  If you are really broke, take a look at AirHogs.  I know, they are toys for kids.  But how valuable could this simple “toy” be as a force multiplier?  I wouldn’t stake my life on them, but they could really make a big difference.

1. Off-grid power source.  drones’s need electricity to run.  They don’t use much, so a big system isn’t necessary.  Ideally you would want a system that could allow you to re-charge your drones within one day.  A great no-fuss, all-in-one system is Goal Zero’s Escape 150 Solar Kit.  A system like this could be exclusively used to support your drones and isn’t too hard on the pocket book.  An alternative is a Biolite Homestove  (if you can get your hands on one) is another great option, as you can tend to your cooking duties while charging electrical systems.
2. Spare batteries.   Spare batteries for your drones and all support equipment are highly recommended.  Batteries will wear out with constant use. 
3. Spare autopilot.  Your autopilot is the brain of your drones.  If you only have one and it dies, your drones has become useless.
4. Spare parts for your vehicle.  Consider the parts that might break the most.  Ailerons, rudders, rotors/propellers, wheels, chassis, suspension, etc.  Stock up on a few extras plus additional materials that could be substituted for broken parts.  Model airplane wood, glue, plastics, metals, paints (for camouflage).
5. Spare payload parts of your choice.

It is highly recommended that any primary and spare parts for your drones be stored in some sort of Faraday cage when not in use.

So, now you’ve got your own homemade, DIY drone/drones.  What next?  How can it be useful?  The possibilities are endless, but here are some uses that might interest Survivalblog readers.  There are three main categories of use than a drone could function in; surveillance, communication, delivery/transport.  While examining these three categories, please keep in mind that drones’s can come in land, sea or air based systems.  Conduct some critical thinking exercises to see which system could serve your unique situation best in your environment.  These are just a few possibilities, I’m sure you can think of more!  Keep in mind, the mission planning software that you get for your autopilot will often come with the ability to program your drone to the below tasks.

Surveillance
Static Observation

Imagine for a moment that you require the ability to observe a field a view from a higher elevation or vantage point.  A quad copter type drones could be suited very well for this task since it is capable in functioning in a hover mode.  Imagine your field of view from an altitude 100’ above your ground-based observation post?

Roving Patrol
Programming your drones or drone to conduct a patrol on a pre-designated route can potentially save you man power.  If your homestead is under-staffed, you may be able to send out patrols to survey your area of operations without sacrificing critical staff at your base location.

Reconnaissance
If there is something in particular you would like to get a closer look at, you can send out a drones to have a closer inspection without putting personnel in harm’s way.  Let’s say you are in a vehicle convoy and are coming up on a blind curve.  Wouldn’t it be great to send out a drones to reconnoiter the curve to determine if it is safe/free of an ambush?  Anything that is dangerous that you don’t want to get close to is perfect for a recon mission.

Communication
Homing Pigeon
Imagine that you are out on a patrol and need a way to discretely send a message to someone?  If you had a drones that was preprogrammed to head to a designated GPS location, you could then send the drones on it’s mission to deliver a written message, flash drive, or other small object.

Aerial Repeater
UHF/VHF handheld radios suffer from the unfortunate consequence of being line of sight (LOS) radios only.  Depending on the terrain, this could limit radio communication on these frequencies to just a few miles.  Repeaters provide the ability to extend the range of these frequencies by basically putting a radio on a big-tall tower (or other high elevation) that re-transmits a signal.  The problem is, you can’t always build a tower in a remote location.
Here’s a solution.  If you have access to a duplexer, it could be installed on a UAV.  By flying the UAV at an extreme altitude in a holding pattern, you could potentially extend the range of a UHF/VHF radio network up to 50-60 miles.  Think that could be useful?  The drawback to this usage is that a fairly large UAV will be required in order to carry the heavy payload a duplexed repeater system.

Delivery/Transport
This is an all-encompassing category and the possibilities here are endless.  The limitations of this category are base solely on the cargo capacity, in both weight and volume, of the particular vehicle you intend on using.  The larger the vehicle you intend to use, the more cargo capacity.  Keep in mind to, that the vehicle does not necessarily have to land in order to make the delivery (if you are using a UAV).  A package of MREs could be dropped via parachute eliminating the need for the UAV to land.  It can simply be programmed to fly out, make the drop and fly back. Use your noggin to think about this one.  They sky is the limit (pun intended).

Advantages and Disadvantages of Drones

Advantages
In addition to the aforementioned advantages and uses, please consider the following.

1. Drones can function autonomously.  This requires an autopilot and uses GPS to navigate.
2. Drones can function manually, in the same manner that an RC hobbyist controls his vehicle.  By attaching a camera the “pilot” can fly in 1st person.
3. Drones in autopilot mode can be deployed at night.
4. If a drone gets damaged or destroyed, that’s better than a human being injured or killed.
5. Drones can be programmed to function in fleets as a unit, or individually.

Disadvantages

1. Drones require a support system.  See above.
2. Drones can be hacked or spoofed.  Whether in manual or autopilot mode, drones are sending and receiving radio frequencies.  These frequencies could potentially be hacked into with devices like these.
3. If you plan on making repairs or advanced modifications to drones you will most likely require extra spare parts and materials in addition to an understanding of aerodynamics, electronics, and radio frequency communication.
4. Drones are almost impossible to operate in bad weather.
5. Drones are not a tool to base your life on, but they can be a boon when working as designed.

JWR Adds: Drones are also fragile, so you would need to store many spare drones and parts to make your DIY drone capability viable in the long term.

Payload Considerations
Here are some considerations for payload.

1. Video recording camera (requires download and analysis at a later time).
2. Video streaming camera (requires radio frequency transmission system).
3. Night vision for above devices.
4. Thermal vision for above devices.
5. Supply delivery system (such as parachute drop cargo bay).
6. Radio relays such as repeaters/duplexers.
7. What else can be carried?  Put your thinking cap on!

I hope the above information has sparked some interest into the potential uses for such great technology.  Remember to obey all laws when operating such technology.  It’s your responsibility to know the law so that you don’t do anything illegal. Enjoy your new hobby!

JWR;
I am surprised that more people are not considering recreational vehicle (RVs), specifically Travel Trailers and Fifth Wheel Trailers, as important prepping tools  They can provide many advantages, backups, and a natural training environment for TEOTWAWKI.  Here are a few more:

• Add a military surplus M1950 stove with a few parts from the hardware store to safely run the chimney through the standard RV ceiling vent [and insure proper ventilation] and you could live in an RV all winter.  We keep these parts tucked away in our at all times.
• Add a 12 volt powered water purification system and you can refill your onboard potable water daily.  We use ours on almost every trip.
• Adding several larger solar panels and an inverter will not only provide you with ample electricity but can serve as a backup to provide electricity to your current home or bugout location.
• When bugging out you may not only bring a your living quarters with you but consider that it is a heavy duty trailer that can potentially haul several thousand pounds of food, water, weapons,  and other gear along with you at the same time.  If our family has 24 hours’ notice to a disaster we could load out our 32 foot travel trailer to effectively live for a 6 – 12 months without outside assistance.  This assumes wood for fuel and access to a relatively clean fresh water supply for purification and the ability to get to the location.
  It can be pre-positioned before things get really bad.
• A distant relative may be more likely to take you in if you have brought your own living quarters.
• Once at your bug out location an RV can becomes a potential secondary location if the primary is threatened.
• Bug out Bags and tents can be carried within it to provide even more redundancy or as gear to share.
• The knowledge developed while providing electricity, heat, cooling, water, cooking, living in relatively tight quarters, plumbing, and waste disposal will give you knowledge that most do not have.
• It is great for a family to vacation in one of these as it forces everyone to cease from the distractions of normal living and focus on each other (from proximity of other family members alone).
  
  Off grid camping with your RV is great fun and is a great way to train for a worst case scenario without anyone questioning it.
   
  

While not perfect solution to all prepping problems, an RV is an excellent way to provide flexibility to your existing bug out plan.
 
Troy V. in Minnesota

Thorough prepping is expensive. Many people are living paycheck to paycheck, struggling to put food on the table (plus a few extra cans for the pantry). Alternative power, water, sewage, and refrigeration are back-burnered to the ever-growing “wish list.” So what's a prepper on a shoestring budget to do?

Consider a used camping trailer or recreational vehicle (RV)! You can find a used trailer for as little as $500. We paid $1,200 for a 35-foot RV. Besides weekend camping, the RV offers the following in a self-contained package:

• fresh water holding tank
• water heater
• flush toilet
• shower
• gas stove and oven
• 3-way refrigerator (regular electric, battery, and gas)
• temporary sewage disposal
• temporary waste water ("gray water") disposal
• heavy-duty power inverter with deep cycle batteries (can be charged with solar cells or generator)
• propane tanks
• beds to sleep eight

Some models even include 12-volt television, DVD player, and music systems.

Short-term Emergencies

Some emergencies are short-term and temporary in nature, such as wildfires, predicted hurricanes, or chemical spills. With a stocked camper or rv, you can temporarily bug out with most of the comforts of home. Many RVs have dual fuel tanks, giving you a much longer travel range than the family car, especially if you aren't traveling at high speeds on the interstate. You may be able to drive to a location out of harm's way and return without ever stopping for fuel. If you have a trailer, you may be able to add an auxiliary fuel tank to your tow vehicle to increase travel range.

Bug-Out Planning

As a knowledgeable prepper, you are alert for signs of impending crisis that could result in TEOTWAWKI. Hopefully, you can be on the road to your bug-out location before panic sets in. Just another family on a leisurely camping trip, tra-la-la.

Of course, once panic sets in, with fuel shortages, traffic congestion, and the possibility of armed bandits treasure-hunting the highways, you don't want to be lumbering along in a deluxe Class A motor home. All the more reason to A. Leave early. B. Buy used (old and ugly, but reliable is the goal). And C. Maintain a low profile (no NRA bumper stickers, expensive bikes on exterior racks, etc.).

Pre-TEOTWAWKI, your camper can help you in your quest for a good retreat location. Most sellers will allow a potential buyer to spend the night in a self-contained camper on the property. It's a good way to learn about typical night-time noises, such as trains, wildlife, and neighborhood nuisances. Once you find your retreat, you may choose to park your camper there so you don't have to worry about bug-out traffic. Be aware that unattended campers sometimes attract youth looking for a place to party, thieves looking for sporting goods, and wandering homeless looking for a place to sleep. Cache your food, weapons, and valuables in a storage unit nearby, or build one or more hidden storage spots on your property.

Sheltering in Place

But where the camper can really come through is when you decide to stay home and ride out the emergency, especially if you've done some advance planning and local recon.

Water and Sewage Systems

Keeping the fresh water tanks full gives you several days' supply of water for cooking, drinking, and cleaning. And if you have a well and a generator, you can top of the tanks as needed. Camper water heaters operate on propane, so you'll have hot water for showers, as well.

Campers have separate holding tanks for “gray” and “black” water. “Black” is sewage that will eventually need to be disposed of. There are several options to consider. Adding a few feet of pipe and a connector (and cap) to your regular sewer is the simplest option. You can also purchase wheeled “dump tanks” from camper supply stores. Dump into the tank, then wheel the tank to a dump station and dump it. Finally, you can drive the camper to a local campground and use the dump station to empty the tank. (Check out local options in advance—many public parks allow free dumping.) “Gray” water can be recycled to water plants, livestock, etc.

If you're in a northern location, you'll need to either insulate and heat-tape pipes and tanks, or have them drained and winterized to prevent freezing.

Cooking and Refrigeration

The gas stove and oven in your camper don't need electricity to prepare food. You may need to have a lighter or matches to light pilot lights or burners. Two large gas bottles last a surprisingly long time—and the connections are the same as your gas grill. So a few extra bottles of propane can be used for either the grill or the camper. If you have a large propane tank for your home, you can even buy adapters to fill the smaller gas bottles from the large tank. One large tank and a few small ones can easily last for a year or more.

The typical refrigerator is a “three-way”. It can be run on gas, AC power (regular utility line current), or DC power 12 volt (battery). The most important thing to remember is that the camper refrigerator works best when the camper is level. You may need an assortment of boards or leveling jacks to accomplish this goal.

Power

Most campers are equipped with a heavy-duty power inverter and one or more deep-cycle batteries. Batteries can be recharged with solar panels or generator. A full charge will usually last several days powering refrigerator, lights, and television or computer. Using the air conditioner or furnace blower will consume a lot more power.

Guest Accommodations

When friends and family arrive, where will they sleep? With a camper, your guests (or you) can sleep comfortably and privately.

When and Where to Find Camper Bargains

Fall months are the perfect time for northerners to find bargain priced campers. It's the end of the camping season, gas prices are going higher all the time, and financially-challenged consumers are looking for non-essentials to sell for much-needed cash.

Your best bargain will be with an owner, not a dealer. You can look on Craigslist or local classifieds. Drive through local campgrounds and family neighborhoods and look for “for sale” signs.

In the southern sunbelt states, spring offers the best bargains. Snowbirders may not want the expense of taking the camper back up north or the worry of finding a suitable place to store it.

Some Things to Check When Buying a Used Camper

• Tires—be alert to signs of weather-checking that can make the tire unreliable.
• Make sure brake lights and turn signals are in working order.
• Check interior for signs of leaks, such as ceiling stains.
• Ask the seller to start the refrigerator, then come back the next day to see if it's cold.
• Check water and drain pipes for leaks.
• Inspect gas tanks for missing or damaged fittings.
• If buying a trailer, make sure your vehicle will tow it. Make sure your hitch is the right size and the wiring plugs are compatible.
• Once you've bought the camper, make a “dry run” in your back yard to make sure all systems are operable and camper is properly stocked. (50 cans of food are worthless on a camping trip if the can opener is at home. Trust me, you don't want to buy a can opener in a typical over-priced campground store.)
  

You can also buy a used camper from a dealer, which may give you some recourse if something doesn't work right, and possibly a financing option. But expect to pay $3,000 or more for a used trailer from a dealer.

Camper Bargains to Avoid

While easier to tow, most pop-up campers won't have the same self-contained features of an RV or full-size trailer. Many older models don't have a bathroom; the “refrigerator” is an icebox (meaning you need to stock it with fresh ice every day or so); and there's no oven, just a three-burner cooktop.

Slide-in truck campers may have self-contained features, but smaller space means smaller holding tanks, smaller refrigerators, and less storage space. Instead of two large propane tanks, they have one small one.

One More Advantage of the Camper as Shelter

TEOTWAWKI will bring many challenges. While we can try to anticipate common scenarios, it's hard to anticipate exact reactions to specific challenges. If your group includes children or elderly family members, a disruption in normal routine can intensify a crisis situation. However, the multiple backup systems in the camper can help maintain a semi-normal routine. Even the most crisis-ready prepper will appreciate a flush toilet and hot shower. While children will most certainly have chores and responsibilities, there will be times a battery-operated DVD player will be a real treat. Your crisis can be your child's “adventure.”

A few years ago (while we still lived up north) our neighborhood experienced a week-long power failure in December. Same week as youngest daughter's birthday. We still had a birthday party—lighted by oil lamps, with homemade chili made on top of a kerosene heater, store-bought cake, and ice cream kept frozen in a snow drift by the front door. She still talks about the awesome birthday party she didn't expect.

And when it's all said and done TEOTWAWKI will lead to a New World We Will Build. Yes, we can improvise toilets with garbage bags and five-gallon buckets, and take sponge baths alongside the creek if we have to. But why not enjoy flush toilets and hot showers as long as possible?

Our culture relies heavily on vehicles and this will likely result in a rude awakening in a TEOTWAWKI situation.  Depending on the circumstances, vehicles, fuel, and/or parts may become insanely scarce and expensive.  This reality has led many preppers to explore various options ranging from alternative energy vehicles to reverting to traditional forms of transportation/heavy machinery (horses for example).   Additionally, those preparing for the worst must consider abnormal conditions that vehicles need to withstand when TSHTF.  This article will discuss TEOTWAWKI vehicles, preparing, and special tactics/considerations in regard to operating them.

There are several schools of thought on what is needed in a survival vehicle, how to select them, etc., but unless you have a nearly unlimited budget (as well as good connections), the dream amphibious, Armored Personnel Carrier that runs on sunshine and hope , gets 80 miles per gallon, and is eco-friendly is probably not likely.  James Wesley, Rawles’ books "Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse" and "How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It" essentially recommend [for the sake of fueeel flexibility] having a diverse fleet of vehicles and this is a great idea and goal.  However, you might be restricted to one vehicle that meets your needs, purpose, and the threat environment that you anticipate.  For instance, are you planning to “bugout” and if so, will it be a long, cross-country trip?  Consider your location; your family sedan has sufficed in a snowy climate because of the roads being maintained, but when the salt trucks stop running, the snow and ice pile up, roads are littered with debris, and pavement breaks apart, will you be able to depend upon it? 

Though there are numerous recommendations out there for various makes and models, I would recommend a quality (not the same as luxury) SUV or truck.  TEOTWAWKI will require high-ground clearance, tough suspension, more space than your average grocery store trip, and work capacity.  Again, I will avoid preferences but older vehicles (no fuel injection or electronic ignition systems) will be better choices in many regards such as EMPs and simplicity of repair.  Fuel sources play a huge role in vehicle selection as they should because the vehicle is of little use if you cannot feed it.  I have not personally built a gasifier, but plan to do so in the near future.  If you are unfamiliar with this technology and have plentiful access to wood products, then you should look into this.  Window tint has some advantages such as concealing your identity and what you have inside your vehicle, but heed local laws and realize that your vehicle will unlikely be sitting in the shopping mall parking lot to be broken into when TSHTF.  One last note on vehicle selection borrows from both Mr. Rawles and good judgment; choose earth tone vehicle, preferably in a flat finish.  Our society buys flashy cars to stand out, but this is contrary to what you will want when TSHTF. 

Now that you have your vehicle (or fleet), you need to ensure they are ready to perform when and how you need them to.  Vehicle maintenance is critical to ensure dependability and longevity of your vehicle so make sure are taking care of it and know how to perform routine maintenance and procedures if you do not already.  If you are not mechanically inclined, you will benefit from taking vocational courses or hanging out with a gearhead family member or friend.  Purchase automotive manuals such as Chilton or Haynes for your vehicle.   Electronic resources are nice but might not be available in a grid-down scenario.  Do not depend on Google or YouTube to fix your vehicle.  This also goes for tools/lighting; they are great assets for automotive repair but require electricity and an impact gun powered by an air compressor paints you as a massive target to the “have-nots.”  Therefore, build your tool chest and consider investing in engine hoists and other heavy duty automotive tools.   In addition to acquiring knowledge, skill, and resources, integrate a weekly or monthly vehicle inspection plan.  This will not only keep your vehicle in top shape, but it will save you money in the long run and is a great opportunity to teach these skills to your family members.  Learn how ignition systems work because in TEOTWAWKI, it might useful to know how to start a vehicle without keys (like say, with a screwdriver).  The same goes for siphoning fuel; it can be done with a pump or the old hose method, but be aware that some newer vehicles have anti-siphon features (these can be bypassed). 

You will obviously need fuel and have probably devised a plan for producing and/or storing fuel, but have you considered the availability of replacement parts?  Auto parts stores, dealerships, junk yards, and eBay motors will not be open during TEOTWAWKI and will not take your terribly devalued money anyway so you might want to grab some key parts now if you plan to keep this vehicle.   Vehicles might be abandoned on major roadways everywhere one day, but they were left for a reason and it might be unsafe to try to remove parts (provided they have what you need).  Ideally, you will be able to replace/repair anything on your vehicle, but a spare parts car is unlikely/often impractical.  I would suggest that at a minimum, you have the following: several spare tires/wheels, tire plug kits, fix-a-flat, brakes, all vehicle fluids/lubricants, replacement hoses/belts, key gaskets/gasket material, sealants, thermostat, filters, assorted nuts/bolts/washers, ignition parts, starting fluid, fuses, wire, battery acid, paint, wire ties, tape, windshield wipers, and headlights.  Naturally, if you have some specialty vehicle (function or fuel), you will need to plan accordingly.  A note on tires is to frequently check your tire pressure and tread life.   Keep a tire gauge in your conveyance and do not depend on sensors and computers to diagnose your vehicle for you.  A penny  can be used to ensure you have adequate tread.  As long as the top of Lincoln’s head is not visible, you have sufficient (legal) tread.  However, the more diminished your tread is, the harder it is to stop, you get less traction, and hydroplaning/skidding are more likely.  In the event of a blowout, remain calm slowly decrease your speed and steer to safety.  Some people panic when a tire blows (or the breaks fail, car skids, etc.) but do not do this.  If you brake only to find that your brakes are malfunctioning, try the emergency brake or  gear down (if no brakes at all) and let compression slow you down.   Whether it is no brakes or the accelerator sticks, do not turn the engine off because it does not negate the problem and [in most vehicle of recent manufacture] now the steering column is locked (meaning you cannot steer).  Instead, put the vehicle in neutral and move to safety. 

You should equip your vehicle with survival in mind.  What you need is ultimately up to you but should include at least the following: fire extinguisher (dry powder, rated for A,B, C, and E materials), whistle, signal mirror, maps, compass, GPS, location beacon, heavy duty trash bags, N95 masks, duct tape, matches/fire starter, chem lights, flares, candles, phone charger, a good first aid kit, blankets, food, water, tire tool, jack, tire repair, jumper cables/booster box, electrical tape, wire, wire ties, fuses, v or serpentine belt, common wrenches, small socket set, pliers, screw drivers, a camera, tow strap, e-tool (small shovel), cigarette lighter air compressor, fuel can (they make collapsible ones if space is an issue), knife, toilet paper, soap/hand sanitizer, pen/pencil, notepad, list of emergency contacts (law, medical, poison, fire, and personal), flashlight, rope, medical/allergy alert, and bungee cords.   If you are traveling a long distance or through a harsh climate, consider what else you might need such as kitty litter or chains for traction on snow/ice or medications in case your day trip turns into a disaster.  I always pack my SUV for longer, more severe trips than I intend to make.  A CB radio and winch are two great tools too.  Camo netting is a worthwhile investment if your plan is to “bugout,” especially if long distance travel is involved.

Remember, this kit is not just for TEOTWAWKI; it could be the wreck you encounter on the way home, an injury at a local event, or simply assisting someone who is broken down.  Two key principles must be in place with stocking your vehicle; securing and organizing.  You will probably want the fire extinguisher or emergency glass breaking/seat belt cutter readily available, but you do not want them flying around the inside of your interior in the event of a wreck so secure all of these items to prevent injury and damage.  Lastly, organize your gear so you can quickly access it.  You do not want to be digging through a duffle bag in search of a wrench with dirty hands contaminating your sterile medical equipment.

Now, let’s move from the vehicle itself to operating them.  It is important to note several good rules of thumb before moving on.  First, be aware of your surroundings (situational awareness) in general, but especially when operating a motor vehicle or when at a high risk area such as a gas station, an ATM, or when slowed/stopped near chokepoints (overpass, train tracks, exit ramps, etc.)  Second, lock your cars doors at all times, even when you are driving.  Not only will this prevent someone from walking up at a stop and opening your door, such as a carjacking, but locked doors are safer in an accident because they shield you (whereas a missing door does not), support the roof from collapse, and keep you inside the vehicle.  Many have heard to leave them unlocked so if you are unconscious, rescuers can get to you, but many newer vehicles auto unlock and rescuers will likely break the glass or utilize the “jaws of life” so this is irrelevant.  Third, either have your windows all the way up or down (not partially) while operating the vehicle.  A partially lowered window is a good way to turn a minor car collision into a decapitation.   Next, never pull right up on the vehicle in front of you; instead, leave at least a few feet of pavement between the visible front of your vehicle and the one in front’s tires.  This will permit you to maneuver around this vehicle without reversing should it breakdown or someone jumps out shooting.   Be cautious about where you park and people in the vehicles near you.  Other than door dings and common sense (lighting, etc.), do not park between two large vehicles as this could be an abduction scheme.  Pause a moment before leaving a stopped state at intersections because it might be green for you now, but the person texting, driving drunk, or simply insistent on not catching that red light might plow into you.  You are such a nice person so who would want to harm you in any way?  Well, the world is strange like that sometimes so be cautious (not paranoid) of people following you.  Try to vary your daily routes and if you suspect someone is following you, make three rights turns to see if they continue.  If so, do not drive home, but go somewhere safe/alert authorities.  Another good practice involves your hand placement.  While this is ultimately a personal preference, do not rest/grip through the steering wheel because in the event of a collision, the wheel can jerk, breaking your wrists.  What may have been a simple collision has now given you broken hands and possibly a uncontrollable vehicle.  Lastly, try to notify friends and family about whereabouts, travel plans, and when you should arrive/return.  This may save your life or at least maybe some trouble.

The first special consideration is the “elements.”  Driving at night is not all that abnormal in our society but can be very different in a TEOTWAWKI world or even an emergency situation.  Most people have not “outdriven” their headlights, i.e. driven so fast that they cannot see in time to react.  If this is necessary, be sure to scan off the road to not only watch for people, vehicles, animals, etc., but to also break the tunnel vision.  One note about running over animals; do not swerve to miss an animal unless it would cause more damage than running off the road, like if it is a moose or bear.  If you see a large animal and cannot avoid impact, try aiming for its rear because you will likely just clip it and might miss altogether (it moves).   Insurance will sometimes cover (no fault) damage from hitting an animal, but slamming into a tree is usually regarded as a (your fault) collision.  Something to consider for TEOTWAWKI is noise and light discipline and vehicles put out a lot of both at night especially.  Many preppers already have or plan to purchase night vision goggles (NVGs) and driving with them can be a great benefit to exercise light discipline, but make sure you can wear or mount them.  Also, be aware that some models really impair your depth perception.  If you plan to operate under these conditions, install infrared lights so that you see even better.  Remember that other people with NVGs will be able to see these IR lights too though.

Other facets of the elements to consider are storms, rain, snow, and ice.  It is best not to travel in storms if possible so if you are on the road, pull over and wait it out. When you do transition back to driving, be sure your surroundings are safe prior to pulling out on the road.   However, if you must drive on, proceed slowly with your hazard lights on (unless tactically not acceptable).  Rain/flooding present concerns in limited visibility, hydroplaning, unseen hazards, and hydrolocking your engine.   If hydroplaning occurs, you must resist the urge to hit the brakes, but gradually slow down.  In any event that the vehicle begins to skid, let off the accelerator and steer into the spin, i.e. if the rear of your vehicle is skidding left, turn the steering wheel left, but do not over-correct.  If a road is flooded, you do not know the condition underneath the water, e.g. broken or missing roadways/bridges so do not proceed into water unless you can clearly see the pavement/lines. Moving or deep water can wash away your vehicle so check the depth.   Also, if you drive in too deep of water, you can suck water into the engine and destroy it.  If your vehicle fell victim to a flood, you might be able to salvage it if you change the oil, filters, plugs, grease it, and let it dry out prior to starting it.  You should thoroughly clean it and drop the oil pan/cleaning the engine and fuel system out is highly recommended.  With regard to driving on ice, proceed slowly and like you would fearing a hydroplane; do not slam on the brakes and correct accordingly.  If a road has been “cleared” but a “two-track” of snow remains, sometimes driving in the snow will improve traction.  Do not think that because you have an all-wheel or four-wheel drive that you can drive in whatever conditions.  Ice changes all of that. When cleaning your vehicle off for operation during winter storms, make sure to clean all of your glass and lights so you can see and that others can see you too.  Drive on frozen ice (only if you have to and have checked it) slowly, have your windows down, seatbelt off, and ready to bail out. 

If you would wreck or break down in a snow storm, your survival skills may truly be tested.  Hopefully, somebody knows your whereabouts, you can contact the outside world, and/or have a rescue beacon.  If you must shelter in your car, conserve gas and energy, stay awake, keep the hood cleaned, and be cognizant of carbon monoxide poisoning.   

“Off roading” might become a necessity of life instead of a hobby in TEOTWAWKI.  I doubt the roads and bridges will be maintained and when abandoned vehicles, debris, and potentially checkpoint roadblocks litter the roads, off roading may be necessary.  Hopefully, your vehicle has the capabilities, but this also requires skill.  First, let me emphasize that not all routes are passable but vehicles can travel over some pretty rough terrain.  Make sure that you have proper ground clearance and be aware that some steeper inclines and obstacles require an angled approach.  It is a good idea to trim panels that might otherwise break, to install skid plates, brush guards, and heavy duty suspensions (does not have to be “Big Foot,” but added weight/abuse can wreak havoc on stock components).   Do not be afraid to get out of the vehicle and check the road/obstacle/wash-out that you are contemplating to negotiate before committing to that route.  Off-roading is often associated with getting stuck.  If you are stuck, do not just freak out and mash the accelerator.  Instead, if you cannot move the direction you are trying to go, smoothly try the opposite way and turn the steering wheel to attempt to regain traction.  Sometimes you will have to dig yourself out (for example when high-centered (bottomed out) so remove the dirt to allow the tires traction if high-centered or dig gradual inclines in the direction you are trying to go if just stuck.  You may also be able to rescue yourself by let some air out of the tire, which puts more tire gripping surface to the ground.  Being stuck by yourself is no fun.  When accompanied, do not forget that passengers pushing and/or putting weight on the rear vehicle has led to many vehicles being freed from mud, muck, snow, etc.  Sometimes you must winch or tow a vehicle out. Take caution when using  a chain or cable to rescue vehicles because if the chain/cable breaks loose, it can excitedly and dangerously fly into nearby vehicles and people.  This can be avoided by using a tow strap/rope instead of a chain/cable or by placing a heavy towel, coat, etc. on the chain/cable.   If you are descending a steep hill, avoid slamming on the brakes, but instead allow your engine’s compression to slow you down (lowest gear).  Lastly, be careful when parking off road in tall grass or brush.  If the grass/brush comes in contact with hot engine or exhaust parts, it may burn the vehicle, you, your supplies, and the forest down. 

High speed driving has some considerations too (besides out-driving your headlights and tunnel vision).  When you are driving fast, try to never accelerate or brake while steering.  If you are driving fast going into a curve, brake hard and in a straight line (known as threshold braking) prior to the curve.  If you need to take curves fast, look into apex turning or better yet, take a training class so that you can practice this in a safe environment. 

Bugging out usually involves a vehicle loaded down with your loved ones and gear to go to some place to ride out the storm/make a stand.  Make sure you have a plan and not just gear.  Know the route, alternate routes, do not depend on your Tom Tom or On Star, plan on backed up/blocked roads, have contingency plans, have sufficient fuel, and be ready for anything.  If you are traveling a long distance, gas stations might not be able to serve you so have more than enough fuel and look at fuel cells/additional tanks in addition to fuel cans.   Bugging out requires extreme organization of your vehicle.  Have tools, food/water, medical supplies, weapons, and extra fuel readily accessible in addition to your bags.  Make good use of every square inch of storage and use the roof like people use to.  Practice loading your vehicle so there will no surprises and time your routes.  Depending on the circumstances, you could encounter checkpoints by hooligans and you need to have a plan for them.  I doubt they will be content with a small token of food or whatever else you have to permit you to pass when they could try to take it all.  You need to find another route or take them out and that is your personal decision.  If you choose to fight, have a plan for if you cannot win, if your vehicle becomes immobile, or it cannot safely be repaired due to conditions.  To run a road block of cars, aim for the rear of the vehicle (less weight), but this is a last resort.  

One last special consideration is fighting tactics from/with a vehicle.  Shooting and moving vehicles are not a fun time.  Although these are less of a concern in TEOTWAWKI, be mindful of hearing damage and hot brass inside of a vehicle.  Also consider compact weapons (or those with folding/collapsible stocks) for this because it is hard to aim a long gun inside a vehicle, especially when it is loaded for doomsday.  You can use a regular vehicle for cover and concealment, but know the difference; concealment only hides you whereas cover will stops bullets.  Ideal cover in regard to a vehicle is with the engine or wheel/axles between you and incoming fire.  Regular vehicle body panels do not stop bullets and do not press right up against the vehicle like the movie stars do because of ricochets, [spalling,] and shrapnel. 

You and your family might be on the road when TSHTF and the vehicle is all that you have access to.  A well-stocked vehicle can make all of the difference in both every day emergencies or if the world turns upside down.  Incorporate vehicle maintenance, knowledge/skills, and outfitting it into your plans and drills.

Dear Editor:
Here are some videos to ponder, for those guys who are building the “Ultimate Bug Out Vehicle.”

Maybe this information should be filed under the general heading of “It isn’t the gun, it is the shooter", or more precisely, "It isn’t the car, it is the driver.”

Watch these videos. (I think the driver is just taking his dog out for a walk.)

• http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=KFwPXEeJ3aI
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFwPXEeJ3aI
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYIJpzo2RVY&feature=related
• http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHvXi_HejnI&feature=related

- K.B.S. in Way North Illinois

I try not to bore my readers with the minutiae of our day-to-day life here at the Rawles Ranch. It is largely a fairly mundane annual rhythm of planting, harvesting, calving and lambing, wood cutting, huckleberry picking, hay hauling, and so forth. But I recently had driving mishap that was noteworthy: I was driving our SUV and hit a mountain lion, in broad daylight. I must first mention that deer collisions are all too common here in The Unnamed Western State (TUWS), and that elk or big horn sheep collisions are quite a bit less frequent. Even more rare are moose collisions, and those never end well. (Moose are so tall that they often go over the hood of a pickup truck and through the windshield.) But to hit a mountain lion is about as common an occurrence as getting struck by lightning or winning the mega lotto. I did a web search and found that the popular press tends to spill a lot of ink over these rare occurrences.

Here is what happened: I was driving down the highway minding my own business with the cruise control set at the speed limit and listening to an MP3 of Taj Mahal singing "Queen Bee" (part of my collection of favorite air checks from KFAT.) Suddenly I saw a full-grown cougar bounding out of the tree line, at speed. It ran into the highway in front of me. I didn't have any time to react. I heard it hit our deer bumper and then felt it go under the two driver's side tires. So now the large predator population of TUWS has been reduced by one. In doing so, I probably saved the lives of hundreds of deer. It was a little sad to see a pretty kitty get squashed, but so be it.

By the way, I should mention that extra heavy duty "deer guard" bumpers are de rigeur, in this region. These are available commercially and are also often custom fabricated, locally. To give you a sense of their size, these make typical Ford or Chevy pickup factory "brush guards" look flimsy, by comparison. Typically, real deer guard bumpers weigh 300 to 900 pounds. In TUWS, we even see these mounted on a few passenger sedans. That is indicative of how many deer collisions take place here.

I'm sure that some readers were disgusted by the foregoing while others will be ready to send hearty congratulations. (As with other large predators, I've noticed that perspectives on the Puma Concolor tend to vary widely, depending on whether or not someone has personally lost pets or livestock to these land sharks.) I'd characterize my own reaction as muted. I felt fortunate that my vehicle wasn't damaged (and with our bumper, it would probably take an elk to do any damage.) I also felt good knowing that I'd eliminated a predator that is presently a bit over-populated. But in a way I felt cheated. I'd much rather take a mountain lion in season after a long still hunt, from 300 yards, at 9X magnification. Or, better yet at spitting distance from beneath a snarling treed cat that has taken me and the dogs all day to chase down and tree. Somehow, just a heart-stopping glimpse and "whump-whump-whump" was just too easy.

I doubt that you'll be reading about any other animal collisions from me in the future, unless I have another rare one. (I don't even bother mentioning deer collisions, which we have every year or two.) By the way I did once almost hit a bald eagle, but thankfully a tragedy was avoided by the margin of just an arm-span.

So now I'm praying that some evening soon I encounter a horribly confused pack of wolves that stands transfixed in my headlights. But somehow I don't think that is very likely. Bummer.

Airplanes

Aircraft are expensive, fragile, very dependent on the weather and, unfortunately, on other people such as Air Traffic Control and airport operators. Airports can be blocked, aircraft can be seized and it only takes a pea shooter to put them out of commission. 

Given all that, they are still by far the best devices to quickly put hundreds of miles between you and a problem.

If you wanted an airplane as a survival tool, you would be looking at something simple that relies on the least possible support and can operate outside of airports: a bush plane. A bush plane is the equivalent of a four wheel drive car, with high wings and long legs to keep the body and propeller away from an uneven runway and a short take-off and landing distance. In that category, the Cessna 172 is the most available and easiest to fly aircraft. It is a four seater that will take you and your family halfway across the country in a day. A 40 years old model is still perfectly serviceable and costs under $50,000. However, you will need to count on a minimum of $5,000 a year in maintenance and running costs (constant compulsory maintenance is why old airplanes remain in good condition) and a serious investment in time. 

Similar aircraft start with the Piper Cub, a seventy years old classic which is probably the cheapest airplane you can find but is mostly made of tubes covered in fabric and go up to the De Havilland Twin Otter, an absolute master of the genre (the main support plane in Antarctica) but much too large and expensive for anything other than commercial operations. I must absolutely mention the Cessna Caravan and the Pilatus Porter as top of the heap although they are also too large and expensive for our purpose. Back in the “vaguely reasonable” range, you’ll find the De Havilland Beaver ($300,000), the most famous airplane on floats, ubiquitous in Canada and Alaska and the much more affordable ($100,000) family of Maule 7 light aircraft (the Maule MX-7 on Tundra tires looks like a monster truck and will land anywhere!). 

People use all those planes on water, dirt, grass and snow in inhospitable country around the world every day. They are slow, but usually have a superb range. The aforementioned C172 will take you at 140 mph for more than 800 statute miles away from your troubles before having to be refueled. Almost 45,000 have been made since 1956 so every mechanic in the world will know how to fix it and will have parts for it. Those planes are able to take off in less than 250 yards, but if you are considering converting one of your fields into a runway, count on double that to be comfortable and triple to be safe.

If you just want to get a license, it takes only between 40 and 50 hours of flying, a serious health check, a bit of classroom tuition, one ground exam, a flight test and a budget of around $6,000. Even if you don’t own an airplane, having the ability to fly one is a serious asset, especially if you consider living in a post cataclysmic world. Imagine The Walking Dead with stranded pilots instead of slightly intellect-challenged policemen.. They’d be in Hawaii having margaritas by now.

Higher up the scale come twin engine piston airplanes, which are much more difficult to fly and way more expensive to maintain without much added performance. Their only saving grace is that if you lose an engine over mountains or water at night or in bad weather, it is not the end of your world. 

I live in a small island and a light twin is one of my main modes of transportation. I would certainly not bother with the time and expense otherwise, although I am aware of a few survival situations where the plane could become useful. We were invaded once and the plane would certainly give me the option of escaping if it happened again. It might also work for a well documented tsunami or a case of serious civil unrest or a nuclear power plant failure. In every case, I’d need at least 30 minutes of prior warning and a clear enough case that I’d need to leave everything behind immediately. I used to have a second home about 500 miles away that made the plane much more useful but today, a boat would probably be a better escape choice for me.

A twin rating, added to your pilot’s license costs about the same as the original license and is at least equivalent in difficulty. It is quite a big step up but you will understand how to fly the majority of aircraft in the world and really feel like a proper pilot. A bit like the difference between driving a moped and a Harley Davidson.

Next up is the Instrument Rating. It is a course and an exam that allows you to fly exactly like the airlines, landing with as little as 200’ vertical visibility (scary!) and flying above the clouds with Air Traffic Control telling you what to do (which does make it much easier). This allows you to use your airplane as a traveling tool as you have to worry much less about the weather and I would be going nowhere without it. This is a long and expensive course for which you should budget a good $20,000 so it is not worth it unless you want to travel regularly with your own plane. Becoming a professional pilot takes a similar but parallel and slightly more difficult route and you need to decide early which one to follow. As salaries have come down significantly, the investment in time and money to become a hirable professional pilot is not really worthwhile nowadays unless you are really passionate about being in the air when you fill your endless paperwork.

A good, realistic flight simulator like the defunct Microsoft product or the still very much alive X-Plane 10 will teach you a lot but it is no substitute for the real thing, especially in the early stages. It helps greatly later on, in learning all the procedures. You can get you checklists right and learn how to operate the instruments without having to spend $150 an hour in the plane (or $15,000 an hour if you’re qualifying for a 747) and you can surprise your instructor with your new proficiency, acquired in-between lessons.

A pilot’s license can be a valuable part of your assets and, in a few select situations, a plane could put you seriously ahead of the crowds. In any case, take one lesson and do discover the third dimension for yourself.

Helicopters

Because they can take off and land pretty much anywhere, having a helicopter handy opens up tons of options. While it might take you a minimum of an hour to get to an airport and get an airplane ready, the scramble time of a helicopter is counted in minutes and although they are not generally considered fast,120 mph in a straight line will beat any car in traffic. They are incredibly agile and I have learnt to land a helicopter in a forest clearing, on a mountain slope, on a building’s roof and finally, to balance it on the top of a fence when there was really nowhere else to put it. 

The problem, of course, is that the cheapest helicopter costs four times as much to buy and operate as the equivalent airplane as they require even more meticulous maintenance (think 2,000 moving parts, all critical..). There are a few classic models that are vaguely reasonable to own, such as the 300, a piston engine three seater designed by Hughes in the sixties but now under license to other manufacturers like Schweizer and Bell, the very successful Robinson R22 and R44, modern two and four seater pistons, the fabulous Hughes 500, a small, very agile turbine five seater made famous by the Vietnam war and the Aérospatiale Gazelle, a very fast four seater turbine designed for the French military. They range in between $100,000 and $500,000 (very) second hand although you will need to get a 40 years old Hughes to put it in that sort of prices whereas a Robinson will never be older than 10 years, at which point they go back to the factory to be stripped and rebuilt. If you are not playing with back of the sofa money, Agusta, Sikorski, Eurocopter and Bell will all be delighted to sell you a superb new twin turbine five seater... starting at just $5 million a piece… And if you want a proper workhorse and are not afraid of random and expensive maintenance issues, $200,000 will get you a very old but still legendary Huey (Bell UH-1). 

Helicopters are also limited by weather, although not in the same way as airplanes (one might fly when the other can’t) and they have a much smaller range, often just around 250 statute miles.

It all sounds quite negative but the one thing that helicopters are good for is fun. A good comparison is that the vast majority of planes can be compared to buses, trucks and at the best, luxury sedans while any helicopter is going to be a motorcycle, and more than a few are in the Ducati category of motorcycles. Most planes are inherently stable and will easily fly on their own. In fact, it is good practice to trim (adjust) the controls so that a plane does fly itself and the pilot can use its hands and concentration for things like navigation, communications.. and paperwork. Flying a helicopter is like driving a motorcycle fast on a mountain road and the last thing on your mind would be to let go of the controls. In fact, and to complete the analogy, you even have a twisting handle for power although you do operate that one with your left hand in a helicopter.

A good airplane will allow you three mistakes before killing you; you can get in a few nasty scrapes with a car and have no more than a sore neck and an angry insurer to show for it. Just like a motorcycle, a helicopter will bite your head off if you so much as look at it funny. This, what most people would consider as a serious flaw, is of course a big part of the attraction. You’re not on the highway in cruise control, you’re on a forested mountain road in a 200hp superbike. It makes the blood flow differently.

Getting a helicopter license will involve 40 to 50 hours of flight time at $200 an hour plus the usual ground tuition, exam and flight test. It is reasonable to budget above $10,000 for the lot. You will need to double that to get a professional license but it may be worth it as, in contrast to an airplane pilots license where you will need additional ratings and flight time, the basic professional helicopter license is more immediately marketable. Also, while there is less job security, being a helicopter pilot is much more of an adventure. You might be doing oil rig transfers in the Philippines one year and herding sheep in New Zealand the next  or flying tourists inside a volcano in Hawaii or shuttling millionaires to and from their mega-yachts in the Virgin Islands or picking up casualties in the Swiss Alps. All a bit more exciting than doing the 17:15 to Boston every day.

So, if the helicopter is definitely a millionaire’s toy, it is also an extraordinary tool that proves its worth whenever there is a disaster and in every battlefield. Being able to fly one goes high in a list of personal assets and it makes for quite an exciting and varied career.

Ultralights

A subcategory of aircraft that are worthy of particular interest for preppers are ultralights. In most of the world, anything under about 1000lbs could be considered an ultralight and that allows for some quite capable aircraft. In America, unfortunately, those are considered sport airplanes and are subject to quite a few regulations and a specific pilot’s license although, fortunately, nowhere near what certified airplanes have to go through. Only the smallest of single seaters are considered Ultralights in the USA but those are completely unregulated: no license, no bureaucracy, just a few reasonable limitations like not flying over built up areas. Do note that not legally requiring a license doesn’t mean that you are not going to kill yourself the minute you take to the air: instruction is paramount! 

As you do the maintenance yourself, the costs go down tenfold and you don't need to spend a significant part of your life renewing licenses and medical certificates. Barring a reasonable amount of flying to maintain your proficiency, you can keep your little escape and reconnaissance tool nicely folded in your garage until it becomes useful. Ultralights are an uncommon freedom if things go really bad.  

The smallest ultralight is an extraordinarily compact device: the powered paraglider. In its simplest expression, it is a parachute and a backpack engine with a propeller attached. The whole thing can weigh less than 60lbs and will allow you to fly (slowly, not more than 25mph) from very short fields (less than 300 ft for obstacle clearance but you do get airborne almost immediately) for more than two hours. They are inherently safe (you are, in fact, already under a parachute) with the only serious danger being landing on water (where you will instantly sink with all that stuff on your back) or flying into electric lines. If you’re not interested yet, consider that many military and law enforcement agencies use them for low altitude reconnaissance and behind-the-lines insertion. A brand new package will cost you about $7,000 but you will find much cheaper second-hand ones discarded by pilots having lost their enthusiasm (they are, after all, very, very slow...). The biggest limitation of the powered paraglider is that it is almost impossible to fly in winds above 15 mph. An other limitation, for the paranoid, is that you do make a very tempting target, noisily drifting against the clouds.

JWR:
I have to concur with Mike Q. I have a Toyota pickup (22RE) with 310,000 miles that doesn't burn any oil and runs perfectly. You cannot kill these trucks. For a bug out vehicle (BOV) you can't beat these trucks. - Larry

 

Captain Rawles.
I have owned two Toyota trucks since 1995. I thought I would share some knowledge I have gained on Toyota truck platform with your readers if any are interested in owning a Toyota truck.

First, the most reliable and maintenance free Toyota truck model is the 1989-1995 22 RE 4-cylinder engine with five speed (manual) transmission. This is a fuel injected engine. If maintained well, 500,000 miles on the engine is very possible. I recommend adjusting the valves on this engine with a feeler gauge every 20,000 miles. The no.4 exhaust valve is prone to "tightening up" due to heat. This can be done by the amateur who is "willing to pay attention to detail' but a good mechanic is recommended. I know many owners of this model of truck who never have adjusted the valves, so it may be optional, I'm just a stickler for performance.

The base model for this truck weighs only 2,700 pounds, and has gets 25 miles a gallon at 55 miles per hour on flatland. (Yes, 25 miles to a gallon if you are careful.) The transmission can be used to downshift almost to at least 10 MPH without brakes if engine RPMs are watched, and the parking brake can be applied to bring truck to a dead stop.

The 4-wheel drive version is almost impossible to get to get stuck if care is taken, and due to its light weight, being "pulled" or "winched out" of a bad spot is easy.
One other quark of this truck is access to the fuel filter. I recommend pulling the passenger side front wheel off to get easy access to the fuel filter behind a plastic flap.
The truck I had was the most "Caveman" of the modern trucks. I only had an air conditioner and heater, no powerlocks, no modern computer screens or other electronic garbage. This truck is fuel injected and unfortunately I do not think it can survive a EMP attack or solar storm.

On parts availability, millions of these little trucks were imported, some parts of the country are saturated with these trucks, some are not. Parts are found at (or ordered easily) at most major parts stores or from the dealer at a premium. Used trucks are selling in my state for $2000 to $5000 each depending on condition. In a collapse, I think the fuel would run out before parts would get wore out.
A word of Warning to most would be owners on this truck, this truck is so lightweight that it bounces around on rough roads and at speed you may "hit your head on the headliner' when you bounce around on the bench seat. So wear your seatbelt!

Cleaning is easy, on the rubber floor of the truck, there are two rubber "grommets" that can be taken off and a hosing out the floor of the truck is possible, just avoid the dashboard, fuse box etc. (I have even hosed down the bench seat) The dirty water will drain right out of the cab of the truck through the grommets (remember to replace the grommets, if your drive through a creek, you may live to regret it)
I had the same truck for 12 and half years, now I drive a newer (2002) Toyota truck with the six-cylinder engine. My mechanic has the exact same truck, with the same six cylinder engine and transmission and his truck has 527,000 miles on it and he still drives it everyday!

On the six cylinder engine: Replace the timing belt every 90,000 miles.
This 527,000 mile engine has never been rebuilt, the heads have never been off and the same automatic transmission has never been rebuilt! (this 527,000 mile Toyota truck has had five timing belts replaced)

As per JWR's recommendations I would not own any vehicle newer than 2002 due to [their profusion of] electronics. Some of the newer models may be okay, however, I like old things that are not so full of electronics.

The 2002 Toyota truck I currently own should last at least 20-25 years with proper maintenance. I'm 45 years old, so this may be one of the third to the last or second to the last vehicle I own in my lifetime. Regards, - E.M.

JWR,
I know that you advocate American made cars and trucks for BOV purposes based on availability of parts, but I would like to share with you a three-part video series demonstrating the abuse that a Toyota 4x4 pickup truck can take and still be driven. All with only a mechanic using no specialty tools and no replacement parts. This truck was driven down stairs, lost in the Bristol Channel at high tide, driven through a shed, had a camping trailer dropped on it, hit with a wrecking ball, set on fire, and put on the top of a high rise apartment building while it was demolished. Spoiler alert...the truck still started up and was driven after all this.

Video 1 of 3
Video 2 of 3
Video 3 of 3

Regards, - Mike Q.

JWR Replies: The Toyota 4x4 pickup truck was the first BOV choice of my Chinese-American friend D., upon whom the fictional "Dan Fong" in Patriots was based. I often talked down his choice (mainly because of parts availability), but I must concede that these videos vindicate him.

Hello,
I'm wondering what the best method is to bulletproof my inherited Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'm 16 years old and I have inherited a Jeep Grand Cherokee and I'm planning on bulletproofing it for the coming apocalypse. I was wondering what the best materials and method would be to do so and approximately how much it would cost to do so if you have any guesses.

Sincerely,  - Noland

JWR Replies: The cost of effectively armoring a car is fairly high. To have it be effective, it is not a do-it-yourself job. Either  you have to massively beef up the suspension and use heavy materials (plate steel), OR you use lightweight but very expensive materials (Kevlar.)  And regardless, you have to buy some very expensive laminated windows. And you also end up with either sucky gas mileage or very sucky gas mileage.

I generally don't recommend armoring a vehicle, except for families in the US with a high profile that would put them at high risk of kidnapping.  For someone new to prepping, the $15,000 to $25,000 you'd spend would be much better spent on storage food, ammo, commo gear, medical supplies, garden seed, et cetera.

As a former Sergeant of Marines, terrorism awareness was second nature.  It was not until I transitioned to civilian life that I realized the average guy doesn’t have a clue what a “Hard Target” is.   A Hard Target is a target that presents the lowest probability of being destroyed or overtaken.  I am breaking it down to three basic sections: 1. You’re self, 2. you’re vehicle and 3. you’re Home.  To start you need to rethink your wardrobe.  You should purchase clothing that helps you blend in. This means no wild colors or clothes that sport expensive name brands or oversized logos. If you were going to steal a purse and two women walked by one with a $600 Coach brand and the other with a $25 one from Wal-Mart what would you choose. The same  applies to how you dress.  The second thing to consider is the colors and material. Earth tones are  best. They blend in with nature and don’t stand out on the street. If you choose to carry a handgun you should consider concealment when picking out clothing. Thinner shirts and lighter colors more easily display the outline of a firearm as well as tighter and smaller articles. You have to dress to conceal. This may mean going up a size in trousers and blouse.  If you are wearing shorts, flip flops and a tank top where are you going to hide your firearm?  Also everyone else that sees you knows that you most likely are not armed.

Predators prey on the weak and sick. Lions attack the slowest and oldest Zebras in the herd not the strong and fast ones. The same is true for the two legged variety or predator.                    

  
Next thing to think about is your vehicle. It should always be topped off with gas. I fill my truck up at a half tank so I always have at least that much gas. The type of vehicle should be taken into consideration as well. Driving a $50,000 foreign luxury car is not a good posture. It only shows off  to the criminal that you have money and at the very least a nice car to steal. A good American 4 door or Truck a few years old and well maintained will do just fine. They are common cars and blend well. Lightly tinted windows are good to keep gear out of sight as long as they are not so dark as to imply that there is something inside that you don’t want anyone to see. The interior should be clean with nothing in sight regardless of value. All GPS receivers, cell phones, chargers and electronics should be taken down and stowed out of sight every time you leave the vehicle. No bags of any kind should be visible. You want to give the impression of nothing being in the vehicle. All BOBs should be stowed in the trunk. Tool boxes that lock and are secured to the bed work well for Pickups. Even small change in a cup holder should be removed as I have heard from friends vehicles that their vehicles were burglarized over such trifling items.

Once you have your vehicle squared away you can move on to routine. You want to be as random as possible in your daily routine. This means not leaving at the same time every morning, taking different routes to and from work, not stopping at the same place  for coffee, gas etc. The more variables you create the harder you will be to track and the more difficult it will be to figure out your work/ school schedule. This will make it hard for anyone to determine when you will be out of the house or where and when you work.   While on the road, watch for any suspicious vehicles that may be following you.  When in doubt pull over and let them pass or make a U-turn. This will make it next to impossible for anything aside from a revolving tail to continue to follow. (A revolving tail is a police surveillance technique where multiple vehicles take turns following a vehicle while maintain radio contact to make the tail harder to spot.) Always be aware of your surroundings. If something feels shady or suspect it probably  is. A good tool is a pen and paper within reach in your car. Take down the make, model and plates or any suspicious vehicles you encounter. This will help you to determine if the vehicle is the same you saw the other day that was suspicious and help the police in an investigation should anything happen. Take note of any vehicles parked in your neighborhood that seem out of place and write down the plated, make color and description of the vehicle. This is to include contractor vehicles that may be doing repairs on your neighbors homes. Many contractors have drug habits and use their work to find easy targets to make easy money. They usually work while you are away at work and can very easily determining your routine. If they watch you leave every day at 0630 and return at 1700 they know the window they have to break into your property.

While at home there are several things you can do to become a hard target. First your house should never look as if no one is home. A simple light on a timer can do the trick. You should shred anything that goes in the trash with your name on it. This includes receipts and bills and even mail addressed to you. You would be surprised the information someone can gather from you just by going through your trash. All Doors in the house should have a locking mechanism that is only accessible from the inside and any door with a window or any glass should have a dead bolt with a key that can be removed and locked from the inside. A “Beware or Dog” is also a good deterrent even if you don’t have a dog. Remember the idea behind becoming a hard target is to make yourself and your property as undesirable to the criminal as possible. This will in turn lessen, not eliminate the risk of becoming a victim.

Sliding doors can be rendered next to impossible to open with a simple wooden dowel or 2x4. The same is true for regular doors that have a wall behind them. Placing a 2x4 between the door and wall will render the door inoperable even while unlocked. This is good for doors that are rarely used like back or porch doors. I place NRA stickers on key doors and windows around the house. Small enough that they are only visible from close up. Some may argue that this presents a risk as firearms are next to jewelry on the list for items commonly stolen during burglaries. I disagree with that assessment because I keep all my firearms locked in a 1,000 pound fire proof gun safe that is bolted to the floor and would require a torch or cutting tools to open with out the key or code. All jewelry in my home is stored in a safe.

Finally I want to touch on security while in the home. Don't assume that just because you are home you are not at risk for theft. Recent years have seen rise in home invasions. I keep my carry gun on me even when doing chores around the house or mowing the lawn or walking the property. Get to know your neighbors and their routines. Talk to them about neighborhood security and inform them when you will be out of town. Offer to look after their property when they are away and help them become hard targets as well. Over all be alert, be proactive and be safe. Remember complacency kills. God Bless and Semper Fidelis.

James:
In your novel Patriots, you describe a 1968 Ford Bronco getting its radiator shot out. The only reason that the radiator was put in the front of early cars was because they did not have effective water pumps in the beginning, water flowed through and was cooled. 90% of the air that cools the radiator comes from under the bumper. You can totally block off the upper portion without any overheating issues. So a series of slats if you do not trust it, could be welded behind the grill if you wanted to.

If you are still afraid of overheating, a trick I learned years ago is very effective, and that is to add another windshield washer tank and pump, with the sprayer aiming at the front of the radiator. You then get evaporative cooling that is so effective you have to see it to believe it.

I would think that your mechanic in the book would certainly have foreseen that weak point and taken care of it. A metal plate could be welded at an angle from the bumper to the top of the radiator. It would then have functioned fine to bounce bullets up out of the way. Granted, weight saving is important, so you again could have used Lexan for half the weight, I would have also reinforced the floor, firewall and sides with either Lexan or Kevlar laid up as fiberglass panels. - Steve D.

If things go bad do you bug in or do you bug out.  This decision will probably be made at the time depending on the expectations of what the emergency will be and just how bad you expect conditions to become.  Are you expecting a hurricane or other disaster sizable enough to worry about?  Will you be gone for a week then return and open the house back up?  Are you expecting a Katrina size event or might it unexpectedly turn into a long term emergency where the only things you have will be those things you take with you.  

What is your home like, is it standard wood frame construction?  I remember a picture taken after a wildland fire in California.  The picture encompasses what looks like the remnants of hundreds of homes.  In the middle of this devastation is one intact home.  The home owner had anticipated the hazard and had prepared for it.  He had built a fireproof home.  If I remember correctly he rode out the fire at home. Now I'm not saying that I wouldn't want to bug out in this situation but this guy could have moved back in the next day even if he did leave.  He had prepared for this eventuality, everyone else had to find a new home for several months or years till they could rebuild.  If memory serves  this guy was an architect.  I wonder how many or his neighbors hired him to design their homes.  Are you worried about civil unrest?  Just how defensible is your home over the long term?  Certainly, bugging in will have the advantage of the volume of supplies you can have on hand.   Other considerations may make this option untenable.  

Let's say, for the sake of argument, that your bug out location is a family members residence in the mountains.  There is a chance of a forest fire so your home is their bug out location.  This means that both places should have an abundance of supplies.  You will want to carry as many of those supplies with you as possible, especially if you expect an extended stay.  Most bug out bags are intended to sustain you for up to three days.  This is to allow you to get back to your supplies.  A longer dislocation will be better served with a different solution.

One answer might be a bug out trailer.  Think of all those people after Katrina, or any number of other emergencies, looking for a place to sleep.  Would a FEMA camp be your first choice?  I'd rather have a root canal.  You might have to drive a long way to find a motel room.  Even if you did find one how long could you afford to pay for it.  Would they be willing or able to take your credit card?  Having a significant portion of your bug out supplies already loaded can mean getting out of Dodge faster with more.  I have used tents before but I find trailers, campers and motor homes more comfortable especially for a protracted stay.

If you don't want to live at a FEMA camp then you had better have a bug out location or at least a bug out vehicle.  Do you have another property in a safer spot?  Fine, install a septic tank and possibly a well there and you are set.  Nothing to steal or burn down, just park your trailer on your pad and you are good to go.  If your home is the bug out location for your friends or family you might want to install a Y in your sewer line so they can have a convenient sewer hookup for their trailer or for your trailer if it becomes a spare room.  Setting up a sewer dump for a trailer is a relatively easy project now.  Later it may be difficult to find the materials and equipment.  Even if the ground is easy enough to dig by hand leaving home to acquire the materials could be a security issue.

Do you have family or friends you could stay with?  Would you be more welcome if you had your own bedroom, bath, and food?  I personally would be more comfortable if I could get away from my host for a significant amount of time.  If living with them was my first choice I would have moved in already.  If they have to bug out it might be easier to put them up in your trailer rather than displacing one of the kids.  After all if living with you was their first choice they would have already moved in.  When I was a kid my grandparents came to visit for a month or more every summer.  We had a few acres so my dad and I built a septic system just for their trailer.  Every year they parked in their spot.  We ran a garden hose and electricity, they set up their awning and deck chairs and in an hour everything was set.  

When do you bug out?  This has been covered many times by many authors but generally the sooner the better.  The less traffic the faster you will move and the easier it will be to get fuel and other supplies.  Whether you will look like a fool if you bug out too soon is something you will have to figure out for yourself.  If you leave too late it could get to the point where you are better off bugging in.

So what are you looking for?  The bigger it is the more space you will have for yourself and your supplies.  The smaller it is the more maneuverable it will be and the less power it will take to pull.  Your decision will also be based on the vehicle you have to tow it with.  If you have a Prius then you are probably reading the wrong article, unless you plan to tow your Prius with your motor home.  If you have a 4X4 one ton pickup then you can tow quite a bit.  All this applies to a motor home also if that is the way you want to go.  Much can be accomplished with an old horse trailer or U-Haul type trailer also.  I had a cab over camper that set in the back of my pickup once.  With that and a small tow behind trailer you could carry a lot.  I prefer the pickup option.  My grandparents towed with their car.  My uncle had a van that he towed his trailer with.  A buddy of mine had a camper van that we traveled across the country in.  What you already have, what your personal situation is, and what you preferences are will all factor in on your final decision.

Let's take a look at the trailer.  You will want enough beds for the immediate family, a bathroom, and a kitchen.  The bathroom does not have to  be grand but there are times when you do want privacy.  Being able to close off the master bedroom from the kids is also a bonus. 

In the kitchen you will want a two fuel refrigerator.  Propane, 12 volt, 120 volt  are the likely options and if you can find a unit with all three so much the better.  Multiple energy options means you are more likely to have refrigeration.  In the novel One Second After, the daughter of the main character died because he could not refrigerate her medicine.  As we all know the fridge is a very useful item and being without one would be a bit cumbersome.  If you had a power outage that lasted days then you could move the refrigerator food into the trailer and use the small fridge if you had to.  If your freezer finally gave up the ghost you could turn down, all the way, either the house or trailer fridge and at least delay the thawing process while using the other fridge for cool foods.   With a mobile survival shelter you will have options as to the best way to use it.

I would prefer a trailer with a couple axles.  You will be adding extra weight so spreading that to more than one axle will make your trailer more reliable.  You will certainly want to be packing spare tires but being able to drive a mile down the road before dealing with a flat could mean the difference of escaping a sticky situation or being forced to deal with it.  Remember, the best way to win a fight is to avoid it.  Also more axles mean more brakes thereby reducing the wear on your main vehicle.  If you find a used trailer with less than optimum axles, moan and groan to get the price down while inwardly smiling that you can use the money saved to put in beefier axles and brakes.   At some point you might want to consider an upgrade to the suspension system.  There are a number of air suspension brands out there that would give you the option to enhance your suspension as you add weight to the trailer.  These products have a 12 volt air compressor that you pipe into the system.  As you add or reduce weight you can change the pressure in the air bags thereby taking some of the weight off the springs.   You may want these for your vehicle as well as your trailer.  Many trailers are designed to carry a heavy load so this may not be necessary.  You will also have to consider the tow hitch.  Each hitch type has a maximum load capacity.  You will want to mount a hitch on your vehicle that is compatible with your fully loaded trailer.  The strongest is a fifth wheel setup.  If you go with the motor home option the hitch may well be a moot question unless you tow a trailer behind that.

The great thing about a travel trailer is that they are made to store an abundance of stuff.  The trick will be finding all the little cubby holes that were built into it.  If you give some thought to provisioning then you should be able to live with just this storage for a fortnight or two without any problems and probably much, much longer.  One thing you can put in a bug out vehicle or trailer is a number of tools.  You might be able to get a Swiss Army Knife or a Leatherman in a bug out bag but you will need a lot more tools than that to survive for an extended time.

You will need everything from toilet paper to tonight's dinner.  You will need water, fuel, a way to start a fire and so many other things that no list would ever be complete.  One of the storage areas often overlooked is the skirted area under the trailer. This is not a readily accessible area but for many items that is not important.  Most travel trailers come with a couple small propane bottles on the tongue.  Leave them in place and use them first.  They are the easiest to steal so you are better off if the empty or partly filled tank disappears. They can also be removed and refilled without having to take the entire trailer.  In a pinch they could be used as a barter item.  They make horizontal propane tanks that you can mount under the trailer next to the frame.  One or more of these tanks will give you a significantly increased storage capacity.  You may want to set up some sort of a valve system so that if a thief takes one tank you can still use the others.  A thief may think it faster to cut your propane line than to use a wrench so having a way to isolate each line is important.  Anything mounted out of sight will likely be out of mind and even if a thief becomes aware of their presence the complication of removing something mounted under the rig should deter most.

Water is another critical concern.  Here again you probably have built in water and sewer tanks.  Additional water storage is easily added thereby expanding your time between replenishment.  Do you already have a bunch of water jugs in the basement?  That is great but another hundred or more gallons might sound pretty good.  I would want to drain and replace the water on a semi-regular  basis to keep it fresh but you could use that water for the lawn, or to wash the car if you were concerned about wasting it.  Most trailers are designed with slightly larger sewage tanks than water tanks.  If you add more water storage it is nice to add more yuck tank capacity but it is probably going to be easier to get rid of the sewage than it is to find clean water and water is necessary for life.  The dish water can also be used to flush the toilet and if necessary an out house can be built.  Remember to bring plenty of paper plates to minimize the water usage.  I built a motor home once where the gray water and black water were in separate tanks.  In a pinch I could dump the gray water in a ditch then close the dump valve, open both tank valves and double my black water storage.  Not my first choice but dumping some shower water in a ditch is a minor sin.  Road side trailer parks usually have a dump site that you can use for a fee.  City sewers can be accessed by removing the heavy lid covering the access port.  Some cities have designated sights to dump your sewage but all would rather have you use the sewer system than to dump your sewage out in the open.

You will need, or at least want, electricity.  A small generator can be mounted underneath the rig.  This saves space inside and it is not as readily accessible to a thief, as a generator sitting on the ground, especially if some thought is taken on the installation.  When I was in the Army a radio was stolen from a squad member, while he was listening to it.  It was sitting in the window and someone reached up from outside, grabbed it and took off.  Anything you can do to make stealing your equipment or supplies more time consuming, noisy, or difficult for a thief is to your benefit.  You will need fuel for the generator but  here again that can go underneath.  This is another case where your bug out resources can be used to bug in.  If the power is out you can use your generator to power the fridge, freezer, heater, and lights at your home.  If you show up at the in-laws with a power source you might be doubly welcome.  You may have to rotate these items depending on the size of the generator but a freezer run for an hour a day and rarely opened will stay frozen.  As soon as the freezer or refrigerator drops to the set point it will shut off and you can move to the next appliance.   Generators can be set up to run in concert with each other.  Some are designed to do this easily.  The advantage is efficiency.  If you have an 1800 watt load a two kilowatt generator will be more efficient than a 4KW gen. set.  If you get to your friends and they have a larger generator then you can run your unit for the times where the load is light and theirs when the load is heaver and both if you have a really heavy load.  A multifuel generator or multiple generators where each can run on different fuels gives also has the benefit to be able to adapt to what ever is available.  Those solar panels you have been thinking of can be installed on the roof of your trailer.  If you bug in you have that power available and if you bug out then the power source is already packed.  

While we are on the subject of fuel you might consider finding a place to put  a fuel tank suitable for extra fuel for your primary vehicle.  This would be a last ditch reserve to get you a bit further down the road.  Every few months I would use this to fill my vehicles then I would refill it with fresh fuel.  Gas and diesel do get old so rotating your fuel stock is as important as rotating your food stock.  If you don't want to rotate the fuel as often then you might add a fuel stabilizer.  I would suggest fuel stabilizer as part of your emergency supplies.  If you are lucky enough to get some warning and can lay in a stash of fuel having the ability to stabilize that fuel could make a big difference.  Even then I wouldn't want to go past a year on gasoline.  Diesel might fare a little better but why stretch it if you don't have to.  I have used fuel older than a year but after a while it becomes a problem.  The engine runs rough and eventually it is useless.  If you have a truck then you can probably find a secondary tank to place under the bed and save that weight and space under the trailer.  Then again you really can't have too much fuel.   If, for example, you take two cars or if a less prepared buddy is tagging along with you it might be better to put some fuel in his tank than to have him in your vehicle.   You will have to weigh the fuel against the loss of resources.   Remember that fuel is always traded for what we want.  We trade fuel for heat .  We trade fuel to move us and our assets from one place to another.  We trade fuel for the electricity to power a myriad of things.  If we have enough we can also trade fuel for  other supplies.

If you haven't already filled up the entire underbelly of your once relatively light trailer, think about adding, what I will call "tubs" underneath.  These are five sided containers of appropriate dimensions attached underneath and sealed to the floor.  An access panel is placed in the floor so this additional space is accessible from inside.  You will need to put a lip at the top of the tub to attach it to the floor.  If some care is given when cutting the floor the panel that is cut out can rest on a portion of the lip of the tub to form the top.  A simple finger hole will make removing the panel easy.  Another design might be to cut the hole, drop the tub in place and use a thin plywood or other material to level out the floor around the lip.  A carpet can then be laid in place to hide the existence of this storage.  If you left some of your food, guns and ammo here you would probably still be able to survive if you were robbed.  Once the trailer is packed this will give months worth of food.  

Some thought will have to be given as to placement of this additional storage in order to maximize space.  A smaller trailer will of course store less underneath but then it will also store less inside.   Fuel and water tanks can be placed pretty much anywhere as long as the fill and drain are accessible.  The tubs need to be mounted where you have open floor space to install the access panel.  That means the tubs will do better down the centerline and the tanks are better suited down the sides.  

A VHF and/or a CB radio in both the vehicle and the trailer so you can communicate if you are separated.  You might be able to use hand held radios in place of base stations but I would prefer the hand held radios as a backup.  VHF and CB are for relatively short distance so I would consider a Single Side Band radio if you want to be able to communicate over an extended distance.  An SSB is capable of communicating half way around the world, given the right ionospheric conditions.  The size of most SSB radios will probably relegate it to the trailer or your home.  You will want to set up a primary channel where you can contact friends and family.  If you don't know which frequency to listen on or call on then it will be shear luck if you can find each other.  Sometimes communication is better in one frequency than another so a backup frequency is a good idea.  You will also want to set up a schedule.  It might be easy for you to listen to the radio all day while you are driving but at home you will have a few other things to do, especially if you are expecting company.  You can also use your cell phone but if the towers are down or overloaded they will be of little use.  If you can't get through on the cell phone you might try a text message.  Text takes less band width and will go through sometimes when voice will not.

Batteries are another item that will be vying for weight and space.  If you have a motor home you will want your engine battery and a set of house batteries.  After camping for a few days and finding out that you can't start the engine because you used all your battery up running the fridge, lights, and radio will be a real bummer.

Go to trailer shows and go to boat shows.  Both are designed for maximum storage and it is a really fun way to get some great ideas not only for storage but for comfort.   Survival is certainly primary but the longer this bug out lasts the more important comfort becomes.  Do not underestimate the importance of your mind set.  The  longer a situation lasts the harder it will be to keep your spirits up.  If you allow yourself to become depressed survival is much less likely.

You can carry a motorcycle or bicycles on the back and they make boat carriers that allow you to put a skiff on top.  These are usually mounted on a truck but I have seen them on trailers.  Their design is such that it simplifies the loading of the boat.   A simple car top carrier could also provide needed space.  

Take the family on a day trip, or if you already have the trailer or a tent, for the weekend, to visit a few campgrounds. Many of these places have something to keep the kids entertained while you walk around and start a few conversations.  Most of these people are very friendly and when you tell them you are thinking about buying or improving a trailer they will probably be more than happy to have a new ear to brag to.  Some of these people have been using a travel trailer or motor home for years and they are a wealth of information.

If you live in a warm climate a car port would be nice to keep most of the rain off and to keep the direct sun off it.  If you want to use the solar panels you can park the trailer on the North side of a building which will protect the trailer from direct sun while still allowing a significant light to collect on the solar panels.  When you open the door and you can't go into the trailer for ten minutes the food stored inside is not going to last as long.  If you live in a cold climate then a heated garage would be nice.  You don't have to keep the garage at 70 degrees but if you can keep it above freezing then you don't have to empty the water system for six months of every year.  If it is not all that cold parking on the South side of a building will give the solar panels better sun and help warm the trailer.

When you get done you will have created a mother-in-law apartment, pantry, and mobile survival shelter.  How you set it up will depend on your personality, resources, and perceived needs.  The options are endless.

Mr Rawles,
I have a few comments after reading the guest article by Max Velocity on small team tactics. I realize the author's perspective is colored by his time in Afghanistan and Iraq, but there are some issues I have with his article.

The first is the Explosively Formed Penetrator (EFP) is not the same IED he described in the Off-route section. The EFP is formed by the Miznay-Chardin effect, not the Munroe effect. The EFP (Miznay-Chardin) is a solid slug or can be fragmented by various means, but is not a molten jet of metal (Munroe). The Munroe effect, or shaped charge, works best in contact situations (it is the kill mechanism by which the RPG works), where the warhead contacts the target. At distance, it often turns into what has been termed as an "incoherent spray," where the jet breaks up before it strikes the target. This effect is so pronounced that vehicles in Afghanistan use cages to break up the spray inches from the armor, for those occasions where the warhead isn't damaged to the point of malfunctioning. Miznay-Chardin charges use a shallow plate to form the slug, which is not molten, and lance thru armor. These devices are generally only defeated by more armor or reactive armor.

Second, a vehicle-borne IED doesn't have to be so large as to affect the suspension of a vehicle to the point of noticing it. In places like Iraq and Afghanistan, the maintenance done on automobiles is spotty at best, and is generally only done to the point of keeping the vehicle running. Putting decent shocks in a vehicle is often a pipe dream. A charge of 200 pounds (about the weight of a person) will generally not affect the ride or stationary characteristics of a vehicle to the point of being noticeable, yet is a large enough charge to do plenty of damage.

IEDs are probably not a real threat to the G.O.O.D. crowd, because any benefit (other than just causing mayhem) would be lost, because a civilian vehicle's contents would probably be irreparably damaged if it was attacked with an IED much larger than three to five pounds. I'd be much more worried about small arms ambushes (which were not really covered) and things like spike strips or caltrops. These things would immobilize a vehicle and allow the vehicle and contents to be recovered relatively intact.

The author's point about forming a convoy is a good consideration, but my nuclear family (husband, wife, two kids) would be hard pressed to provide good on-road security for itself, because my sons are just over and just under 10 years old. I can't expect them to perform even as well as a 16 year old. They can't really drive, nor can they shoot with the level of fire they'd need to in a contact. You'd really need to band together with at least one other family, hopefully taking two or three vehicles.

The method of providing security is suspect as well, because not every vehicle suitable as a G.O.O.D. vehicle has a sunroof to provide something resembling 360-degree fires during a firefight. The author's perspective is again colored by his experiences. I don't own an armored pickup or SUV, and would have to rely on speed and my driving to get myself out of an ambush or attack.

And, to give you an idea of my experience, I spent a year in Afghanistan running missions outside the wire. Sincerely, - Major K.

I have been a soldier for all my adult life: infantry, special operations and as a civilian security contractor. More recently, I have got into prepping for the survival of my family. I have been working slowly at it, and reading and researching a lot of the publications and related blogs. Given my background, I have a head start in the security area, but many have huge head starts over me in the other desired and required skills that will be essential to survival. I have a lot to learn and a lot to catch up on. However, I would like to contribute my two cents worth where I can.

The more I read, the more I form the opinion that certainly not all, but perhaps “some” or “many” preppers out there are making the simple mistake of thinking that with the subject of security, they can simply “tick the box”. Preparing for the protection of your family cannot be simply taken care of by having guns; not in the same way that hunger can be taken care of by stocking food. It is simply not sufficient to exercise your right to bear arms and own guns, without being tactically proficient. Even for the good shots, that is not the same as being able to perform tactically. The kind of tactical challenges that you will face post-SHTF will be in a different league to, for example, confronting an intruder in the dead of night with your handgun or shotgun. Think marauding gangs of looters, going from house to house, raping and killing. Even if you have a remote retreat, you will need tactical know-how at some point. I also believe that there will not only be a need for family and friend units to protect themselves, but if the collapse is ongoing for some time there will be a need to create tactical teams to conduct necessary operations to protect your area of operations and retreat from whatever threats emerge.

Reading through forums and articles I see many of the same questions out there about what techniques to use, how to defend yourself, your loved ones and your home, and similar. I hope to answer these questions. Also, the book takes you from tactics for survival of yourself and your family, including vehicle movement and defending your home, through to small unit tactics. These small unit tactics require the training of tactical teams and would form the basis of a group that you would use to conduct operations post-SHTF to defend your location, compound or small town. This compendium of infantry, special operations and close protection tactics would also allow you to carry out an effective American Insurgency against invading enemies, foreign or domestic, into the post-SHTF vacuum.
 
As an example, as part of my career in the military and security, I spent five years serving as a security contractor in both Iraq and Afghanistan. This included working on contract for the US Government in Iraq, a year of which was based out of Fallujah, the rest variously based out of Baghdad and country-wide, and also two years working for the British Government in Helmand Province and Kabul, Afghanistan. These roles were operational security roles that included exposure to multiple training methods and operational schools of thought, as well as both high profile and low profile mobile operations across Iraq and Afghanistan. In my book, I have incorporated a lot of the techniques and experience that I learned in both high and low profile movement in these combat theatres into techniques that you can apply to moving your family and conducting any type of post-collapse vehicle movement.
 
If you find yourself packing up your family in a "get out of Dodge" situation, then there are a number of factors to consider. The number of vehicles and personnel in your convoy will have a knock on effect to tactical potential, which will is discussed in more detail. However, to introduce the concept here: one vehicle gives you limited load carrying ability and no redundancy. If you are a standard type family you likely have a couple of cars. Take both. If you have the ability to take three cars and have a driver and security in each, then take them because you will 1) spread out your personnel so that there is less risk with the destruction of one vehicle 2) increased redundancy if one vehicle breaks down or is immobilized 3) increased your tactical options, which we will cover in detail in the chapter on vehicle operations, and 4) greatly increased your load carrying ability, perhaps without having to use a trailer which will benefit mobility.
 
One of the big threats faced in Iraq and Afghanistan is the Improvised Explosive Device (IED). We hope that this will not be a primary threat in a WTSHTF situation in the Continental United States, and the manual does not concentrate on them for this reason, but they may either be used in a limited fashion by certain groups or become a widespread threat in an insurgency type situation if one develops, for whatever reason. Here are a few interest points on IEDs:
 
IEDs come in various sizes and the effectiveness of an IED depends on large part as a function of size and placement, as well as accurate targeting. IEDs can be connected in a “daisy chain” and usually placed to match the anticipated spacing of vehicles in convoys, to cause maximum damage. IEDs can be initiated in a number of ways:
 
• Command Wire (CWIED). A physical connection between the initiation point (Firing point (FP) and the CWIED itself (Contact Point)); the need for this connection can aid in detection of the device and the FP.
• Remote Control (RCIED). The RCIED is detonated remotely using any one of multiple options. It can be anything from a cell phone to a garage door opener. This increases the enemy’s options for placement and FP, without the need to be physically connected to the device. This can make it harder to detect the device.
Vehicle Borne Improvised Explosive Device (VBIED). Simply put, the IED is inside the vehicle. This type of IED will usually be remotely detonated, or can be on a timer (exception: see SVBIED, below). The VBIED allows for mobility and placement of large IEDs. However, they can be detected: a simple example can be a car that is packed with Home Made Explosives (HME) and therefore the suspension is weighed down, making the vehicle suspicious as it sits parked at its placement point.
 
Off-Route Mine: (A targeted IED capable of defeating armored vehicles)
 
• The off-route mine is very effective and can defeat many types of armor. It uses the “Monroe effect”(shaped charge) to create a molten jet of metal that will pierce armor, causing damaging effects inside the vehicle as it passes through. The Monroe effect places explosives in behind a metal cone or dish: on detonation, the cone inverts and melts into a stream of metal. This is the same effect used by a standard RPG, with the exception that an RPG detonates on contact with a vehicle, whereas the Explosively Formed Projectile goes off several feet away by the side of the road.
• The effect of the device can be devastating but usually limited in scope. It will pass through armor, and there have been multiple circumstances of these devices causing traumatic lower limb amputation of personnel in the driver and front passenger seats of vehicles, but personnel in other compartments being left unscathed.

Victim Operated Improvised Explosive Device (VOIED). This type of IED is detonated by the actions of the victim. In order to be effective the IED will usually target a location that is known to be used by coalition forces. VOIEDs can be anti-personnel or anti-vehicle. The type of location targeted would usually be somewhere that locals could avoid, but that forms a channel for military personnel or vehicles. These devices, or the corresponding safe routes, may also be marked, often in unusual ways, similar to the way that mines are often marked in the Balkans i.e. piles of rocks, sticks, cloth tied to markers etc.
 
About The Author: Max Velocity is the pen name of a former Special Forces soldier and private security contractor. He is the author of the nonfiction book Contact!: A Tactical Manual for Post Collapse Survival.

Jim,
My wife and I were heading back from cabin in the Northern Arizona mountains Saturday (July 7) afternoon and were stopped by a nice elderly lady who worked for the Forest service (vehicle
parked across from her) on a forest road. She handed me a new Coconino National Forest map and said “if the roads are not shown on this map then it is closed and that each year they will come out with a new MVUM (motor vehicle use map) and the same applies. So, if the road is not shown, then it is consider closed. I said why not put up closed signs or barriers so we can see and she said they will just get moved or destroyed. She also said it is your responsibility to know which roads are closed via their maps. Rather than sit on the road questioning/argue with her (just the messenger) I figured I would look over the map when I got home.

After getting home I looked over the map and its purpose (written rules) and what it says: Violations of 36 CFR 261.13 are subject to a fine of up to $5,000 or imprisonment for up to 6 months or both (18 U.S.C. 3571(e)). This prohibition applies regardless of the presence or absence of a sign.

It’s a National Forest and they will close forest roads (no signs/marked) which they deem and we are responsible to know by it not being shown (drawn) on their maps. Just out diving I do not look at a map. I just take whichever road is there and drive. I do not make new ones or drive across fields unless to retrieve downed game which is authorized. I could see if they were doing it for reclaiming the forest to it’s natural order or fire restriction however if you read into the rules and such (on the map) it outlines a lot more plus where you can camp. A lot of roads are missing from this map (Flagstaff, Arizona area) so if you hunt, camp or sight see look out because it is already in effect, as of April 2012.

Again, it is our National Forest (tax dollar funded) and they are going to tell us what roads to drive and where we can/can't camp? Whether you agree/disagree with off road travel, camping and quads this is pure crap.
Install barriers (post/rocks) up on areas you wish to reclaim not just delete the road from a map (only theirs) which will change yearly and make it the public's responsibility to know. I am sure this is happening in other
national forest however I just happened to be traveling through Coconino National Forest. I am writing to the forest heads and our congressmen because soon we will lose all rights of our National Forest! It’s just the beginning of our limited use of our forest in which we pay for along with their paychecks!

For more information, see this editorial in The Arizona Republic Friday, July 13, 2012: Rules a burden for hunters. - Regards, - Steve E.

Dear Editor:
The "off-road" gear carriers described in Avoid Becoming a Refugee are neat, but check out this fascinating article about the Chinese wheelbarrow. Its wheel is dead center (instead of at the end like European barrows) enabling it to carry three to six times more weight. Frequently passengers with luggage would be transported by just one person. These were the primary freight movers of their day (much like tractor trailers are
used today) but had the advantage of being able to negotiate extremely narrow "roads." I really enjoyed reading this history and have tucked this knowledge in the back of my mind in case I'd need it one day. Regards, - C.D.V.

Like many people, I was a prepper long before I ever heard the term.  I grew up on a farm and learned the value of hard work and ingenuity at a young age.  I never liked being in debt or the feeling of having others in control of my well being.  The following topic may not be of any interest to many people but for those of you who are thinking about moving out of the city to a place in the country it may give you one more thing to add to your retreat wish list.

In 1998 my family and I moved to our 67 acre farm that came with free natural gas (NG) from two 1930s-vintage shallow wells.  This heated our home and water and provided gas for cooking and clothes drying.  A couple of years later we bought the lease from the producer because he was going to plug the wells as he wasn’t making any money on producing them.  Oil was selling for under $9 a barrel at that time.  I did not want to lose the free gas and figured the price of oil would go up so I bought them and the oil I’ve sold over the past 10 years has paid me back a few times.

We live at the end of the electrical grid so our power is the first to go out and the last to come back on.  There is seldom a month that goes by that our power doesn’t go out and at least once a year it is out for more than 4 days at time.  Our first purchase when we moved to the farm was a gas generator.  We had no power the first 8 days after we moved in, due to a severe storm.  I read about fuel cells for producing electricity from NG and that they would be available for home owners in early 2002.  Well that hasn’t happened and in 2004 I bought a whole house NG backup generator.  I called an electrician to hook it up and he said he could do it the following week.  He estimated the cost at $1,000 so I decided I could cut that down by doing what I could on my own.  I prepared the site, moved the generator into position, ran the gas line, mounted the transfer switch, drilled holes through the house, ran the wiring to the switch box, mounted the breaker box and at this point I realized that all that was left was to wire nut the wires together inside the main breaker so I called him back and canceled my appointment.  This thing is great and in an extended power outage it can be turned on and off manually to greatly extend its life.

The first time gas was closing in on $4 a gallon I decided to get a car that ran on NG.  This turned out to be a no go as I couldn’t find a compressor for the natural gas that made sense.  I could only find two options at that time.  First was a “Phil” from Fuelmaker, the unit was priced alright but the upkeep ran about $1 per GGE (gasoline, gallon equivalent).  The second choice was an Ingersoll Rand commercial unit at $100,000. Even though I really wanted to do this I put it on the back burner for a while.  To run a gas engine on NG you don’t need a lot of pressure you just need a lot of volume.  Most cars have tanks that hold 3,600 psi and then have two regulators that reduce the pressure down to a useable level.  The reason for the high pressure is to store enough volume in a small enough space so you can go a far enough distance to make it worth doing.   One day, while pouring gas into the fuel tank of the Honda engine that is used to run the pump jack on the oil well, I decided that was just plain nuts with all the NG available only a few feet away.  I spent a few hours trying to rig something up to run NG into the carburetor but couldn’t get it to run smoothly.  The next day I ordered a kit online for $160 and have not put a drop of gasoline in it for six years.

After reading One Second After I started thinking about getting a NG refrigerator.  The price was mind boggling until I found out that most of the companies selling them where buying new electric refrigerators and taking out the electric parts and replacing them with NG cooling units.  Spending $2,000 to replace a fridge that was working just didn’t make sense.  I still wanted one and started looking through the local papers and on Craig’s List for a used one.  I finally bought a 1949 Servel at a local auction for $50.  This was at an estate auction and I asked a family member if it worked.  He told me it had been working a couple of years ago but did not know if it still worked.  When I got it home and hooked up to the gas I couldn’t get it to light.  I went on line and ordered a manual for the fridge from a guy in Maine who fixes old NG refrigerators.  I tore the burner apart and cleaned the dirt, bugs and rust out of it.  When I put it back together it lit right up and has been going great ever since.  These have no moving parts, are heavy made and should last almost forever.  The freezer is big enough to hold about 8 ice cube trays and the main compartment is the same size as a normal fridge.  I keep this in my shop and full of beverages but it is great to know if I ever needed it for everyday it is available.  The average newly-manufactured refrigerator lasts around 7 years but this one is on its 7th decade.

Every year I go back and search the internet on uses for the natural gas on my farm.  I mentioned earlier about the fuel cells to generate electricity for home use.  Companies like Bloom Energy are selling them to commercial users like Google, eBay and FedEx but not home users.  I can understand why they want to deal with commercial users as they can sell $500,000 to one buyer instead of $5,000 to 100 buyers, but one day they will be available for home users.  About a year and half ago while doing searches I finally found a home compressor so I could start running my car on natural gas.  I had noticed a large increase in the number of compressors available but most were made in China and were complete junk.  I found Green Line Fuel Corp. in California selling a Coltri compressor that had just what I was looking for in a compressor.  Coltri has been making compressors for the US Navy to fill scuba tanks for years.  What I bought was their smallest unit MCH-5 that fills at about 2 GGEs an hour and is built like a tank. Very low cost to maintain and this can be done by the operator unlike the Phil that needs to be sent to the company every 900 hours for a rebuild. 

Once I had found a compressor I liked I started to look around for a car.  My car had 127,000 miles on it and didn’t seem like a good candidate to convert.  I ended up buying a dual fuel Chevy Cavalier on eBay that only had 44,000 miles and that was $1,100 less expansive than the estimated cost converting my old car to run on NG.  I was quite nervous about buying the car over the Internet without driving the car first, but the car has been just great.  With the car purchased, I called Green Line and ordered the compressor.  They delivered it the middle of January. 2011 and we got it hooked up and running in no time.  A couple of months later my dad bought a dual fuel F-150 at a GSA auction and I started to fill that for him.  Six months later he bought a 15 passenger one ton Chevy van with only 18,000 miles on the odometer.  The van runs great but it had the smallest compressed natural gas (CNG) tank ever made (125 mile range).  After removing several rows of seats and installing an additional tank he now has a 400 mile range.  Filling up my dad’s vehicles has made me happier than about anything I’ve been able to do with my natural gas.  My dad is retired and has always loved going to auctions to buy stuff then take it around to farms and businesses and peddle it out of the back of his truck.  About three years ago he pretty much stopped because of the gas prices.  We live in a very rural area and many times he would travel 150 to 200 miles round trip for an auction.  Now he is back on the road and the money he was spending for gas is now profit from his dealings.  We live about 20 miles apart but my office is in between so we just swap out cars there. 

In December of 2011 I had my ¾-ton Chevy truck converted.  The truck had spent most of the last several years in the garage.  Living on a farm you need a truck but at $4 a gallon and 15 miles to the gallon you start asking yourself how many bags of feed can I get in the back of the Cavalier.  All of our vehicles are dual fuel meaning they will run on either NG or gasoline.  CNG filling stations are few and far between where we live.  My truck starts on gasoline and then switches over CNG when the engine temperature reaches 170 degrees.  I’ve filled the truck with gasoline only once in the past six months and still have over half a tank.  The Cavalier runs on CNG anytime there is NG in the tank and you can’t manually switch it over to gasoline.  The one I would not recommend to anyone buying is the Ford unless you have someone that is willing to work on Fords.  The closest Ford dealer to us that would work on a factory CNG truck is 120 miles away and they quoted $800 just to change the spark plugs. The main problem is a regulator called a Compuvalve that gives most Ford owners fits. 
 
We all see different SHTF possibilities but many of them include having either no gas or a very limited supply.  Being able to get around quickly or haul stuff to market could make a big difference and if nothing bad ever happens I will just keep saving money.

I have several ideas for future projects using the natural gas including a small greenhouse, lawn mower, saw mill and a tractor. 

JWR Adds: This article is further evidence that properties with their own "home tap" natural gas wells are not a myth. And you don't have to move to the Four Corners or to Oklahoma to find one. They are all over the country, if you do a concerted search. Properties with gas wells are also often available at our SurvivalRealty spin-off site. Here is an example, in Kentucky.

“One must Hope for the Best, but Prepare for the Worst.” - Book of English Proverbs

We’ve all rehearsed it many times. A newsflash report comes on, reporting widespread chaos what appears to be the total, spectacular collapse of society. Food stores are empty. Gas station pumps are dry. All remnants of any social order have toppled, and panic has ensued. The next-second response to survivalists is second nature. Grab the kids, the AR-15, the Bug-Out-Bags, and head for the hills! To most survivalists, the most effective bug-out is clean and simple, requiring no transportation and just the pack on your back. Yet a very large number of us live in areas that are considered urban or suburban, meaning that a true unraveling of civilization would make such a short range or prolonged bug-out dangerous given the large number of unprepared occupants.  

The solution, as many see it is a Bug-Out Vehicle (BOV), which can dramatically extend range and speed in reaching secure retreat.  On a full tank of gas, a BOV can reach a destination hundreds of miles away in a matter of hours, whereas the same retreat would take days to reach on foot. Few would disagree with the logic that less time spent on the road to retreat means less danger.  Natural or man-made obstacles, such as bad weather or nomadic marauders, can be better managed given the protection of an enclosed vehicle.  Yet, I cannot overemphasize this:  While Bug-Out vehicles dramatically increase both your mobility and chances of bugging out safely, they are absolutely no substitute for the traditional bug-out on foot. Vehicles will often be destroyed in certain disasters, and an EMP will render almost all vehicles unusable. You and your family should always be prepared to walk to your Bug-Out-Location- or a secondary one- with your Bug-Out kits. A BOV should be seen as an option and expediency in bugging-out, rather than a critical part of your plan.

I am aware that many will disagree with me as to the wisdom of prepping a vehicle.  Hard-core, elemental survivalists preach the simplicity, reliability, and safety of a walking bug-out with only the supplies on your back. This breed of survivalists adheres solely to the “Prepare for the Worst” half of the prepping mantra. That is an invaluable attitude that should be instilled in every person, no doubt. But what about the other half- “Hope for the Best?”  What if, by a stroke of luck, vehicles are around? There is nothing wrong with capitalizing on advantages given to you by your environment or situation.  In many scenarios, your BOV will survive the initial aspects of a TEOTWAWKI situation.  More importantly, circumstances can arise which make a walking bug-out not possible. What if a family member breaks both of their legs, or is badly burned by a nuclear detonation? It is undoubtedly within the spirit of contingency planning to prep a vehicle. You may have heard the saying, “A good man makes his own luck.” By investing a portion of time and money into a bug-out-vehicle, you increase the chances that your BOV will be of use to you come TEOTWAWKI. When all is said and done, we don’t know what the conclusion of civilization will look like. Roads might be patrolled with tanks, or they could be empty. Your BOV could be incapacitated from an EMP, or it might be in showroom condition. Prudence, however, demands that a survivalist prepare for any number of scenarios, thus boosting his or her chances of surviving a TEOTWAWKI situation.

When I first thought about it, the ideal bug-out vehicle seemed to be that dream, roaring Jeep, loaded with tough accessories and modifications to make it the equivalent of a military Humvee.  Big wheels, big engines, and a tank-like chassis should be combined to yield the ultimate doomsday limousine, I reasoned.  Look like and become the toughest cat on the road and nothing can or will touch you. That can be true to some extent, but it’s important not to focus solely on a vehicle’s extreme capabilities. Rather, you take into consideration what the fundamental purpose of a vehicle is: to increase the speed, mobility, and range of a person. Sure, having that Wrangler with a 7-inch lift will give you more capabilities than sticking with your station wagon. But truck-like vehicles would have little advantages over normal cars should we experience a cataclysmic event- if all roads are shut down or covered in 6 feet of snow, guess what? Nobody’s going anywhere. More importantly, the fuel economy of your vehicle will be awful when compared to normal vehicles, which reduces your range and forces you to store large amounts of fuel (and, in day-to-day driving, cost you a significant amount more money at the pump, leaving you with less funds to prep with). Don’t feel like a bug-out vehicle has to be a multi-thousand dollar truck full of modifications.  
Rather, remember that any car, be it a Honda Civic to a Bentley, can function as a BOV. When all is said and done, all a BOV has to do is get you from point A to point B faster than walking speed. Try to balance efficiency and practicality with capability, based on your own personal scenario. The most important aspect of a vehicle is it can get you out fast and get out far. If you happen to be eyeing that monster truck capable of fording 5 feet of water, remember that you’re going to take a significant hit in fuel range. Plus, trying to “blend in” and navigate dangerous urban centers will be much more difficult with a large, tank-like truck. You’ll attract unwanted attention, and also increase the chances of a roll-over trying to maneuver around street corners.  At the same time, if you live in the mountains of Colorado, it’s probably not advisable to put a Prius to the test of unforgiving weather and terrain. The type of vehicle you choose is dependent on your environment. Urban residents will likely want to have a quick and maneuverable vehicle with as far a range as possible to escape rioting and chaos, while many rural preppers will desire a more adaptive vehicle to combat bad conditions. There are blends of the two. Next time you go car shopping, give thought to a crossover or all-wheel drive sedan.  Subaru makes a fleet of cars each equipped with all-wheel drive, without the usual gas guzzling and impracticality that come with it- and based on my own personal experiences, their vehicles have a long lifespan.  The Jeep Compass is also designed to be a fuel-efficient SUV.  I won’t spend any more time debating between the many species of BOVs, and won’t attest to any one’s success. It’s completely up to you if you want to purchase one dedicated for a bug-out, or if you just want to prepare your daily driver for TEOTWAWKI. 

How does one go about preparing the selected Bug Out Vehicle? For starters, let’s take a peek at the biggest limiting factor of many vehicles: fuel range. Most cars can travel a couple hundred miles on a single tank of gas, anywhere from two to eight hundred miles between fill-ups. There is, of course, a relatively clear solution to the “Fuel Problem”, which is to store fuel in anticipation of a gas pumps running dry. I advise to do so with NATO-classified “Jerry” Cans, often seen bolted to the rump of a Humvee or Willys Jeep. Jerry Cans can be easily installed on a roof rack or rear of a vehicle, giving them the strong prominence they have attained amongst military vehicles.  They also protect fuel against permeability better than plastic cans, and give the needed durability against punctures. I have had one case in my shed with a where a rodent of some kind took a chunk out of a 2.5 gallon plastic gas jug, presumably for a nest given that he took home the detached plastic.
 
When storing fuel- regardless whether you opt to use a plastic container or Jerry can- be sure to follow all the necessary guidelines to prevent an explosion.  Note that older, metal cans are not designed to vent expanding fumes like newer gas cans do. Most importantly, keep vehicle fuel far from your house.  When deciding on storage placement, think to yourself, “If I dropped a match in each of these cans right now, would I feel like my home is secure?” If you neglect basic flammables safety, you have already violated the Code of Prepping. Safe storage of fuel is a concept that has been drilled into our heads for years, and yet individuals still choose to ignore it. Please, think not only of yourself, but of the entire culture of Survivalists when choosing how to store your fuel. When your house blows up, killing you and your next door neighbor, the media will have a field day declaring that “thousands of so-called ‘preppers’ have infiltrated our society, storing ticking time bombs of gasoline in the midst of their paranoia.” Don’t jeopardize yourself or our reputation by doing something stupid- and that goes for not only safe storage of gas, but ammunition, firearms, et cetera, all things that some people are salivating for an excuse to go outlaw.

You’re also going to want to ensure that the fuel quality is of good standing. Most chemists agree that using premium fuel in an engine intended for 87 octane gasoline won’t increase performance. Even so, premium fuel contains better quality detergents and additives than its regular counterpart, which can help prevent deterioration. Some trials have determined that premium fuel leaves less gum deposits behind than lower octane gasolines  (See: VetteNet.org). Personally, if I am looking to fill up on the best quality gasoline available, I go for the Sunoco Ultra-93, 2 octane points higher than traditional Premium. Shell has a fairly good reputation for their V-Power, too. The gas station brand you choose for your storage fuel is extremely important! Don’t go for the no-name brand selling 20 cents cheaper unless you have reason to trust the owner. A large number of stations skimp on fuel quality, water contamination, and tank maintenance which can mean short shelf life. If you happen to live in the southern United States or a region where ethanol has not contaminated gas stations yet, try to take advantage of pure high octane gasoline. If you look at most American pumps, you’ll notice a disclaimer saying that the fuel contains 10 percent ethanol, derived from corn. There are only a handful of stations per state that don’t sell ethanol. Ethanol has two carbon bonds, but traditional gasoline has eight. It doesn’t take much science, although plenty of tests already exist, to show how engines’ durability and efficiency have been hit hard by Ethanol (EPA mileage ratings for older cars have already been lowered a few miles per gallon due to the increase in Ethanol treatments). So, if you can, try to find some gasoline without ethanol, as it enriches the quality and performance of your engine. Don’t stress out about it- it’s impossible to avoid ethanol- but if you are lucky to have the opportunity to, try to stick to pure gasoline [for your stored fuel.]

MOST IMPORTANTLY, add fuel stabilizer to your stored fuel. Brands like STA-BIL can be found at your local hardware store. What stabilizer does is prevent corrosion and gums from forming in the fuel. Running some through your BOV is recommended, too, to help protect injectors and fuel delivery lines against corrosion or gumming.  Gas has remarkably fallen in quality over the past decade due to environmental regulating and companies cutting corners on refinement, additives, and detergents. Leave untreated gasoline sitting for a few years, especially in a vehicle, and you run a very high risk of permanently damaging your engine with the gums and moisture of old gasoline. Even if you use fuel stabilizer, rotate the gas every year into your vehicle to ensure that any bug-out gas will be safe to use.

But what if you live in area where you can’t store fuel- say, in an apartment complex in the city? Take the correct preparations, and your location won’t hinder you.  Those unable to store fuel at their residence are advised to create a cache en route to a BOL.  Try to make it as close to your residence as possible in a wooded or unused plot of land. As you move along your route, the chances increase of having to take a detour, separating you from your fuel.   It’s best to either bury your cache inside of a metal or plastic drum, covered with a tarp or board. It is essential to ensure that water doesn’t enter the fuel can. Be sure to add plenty of extra Stabilizer, too (all stabilizers are gasoline derivations, and the makers assert that an almost unlimited amount can be added to fuel). Make a trip to your cache every 6 months to rotate the fuel, as it will likely deteriorate faster exposed to conditions.  If you have any access to outside property, keep a small portion of fuel on-site. 2.5 gallon galvanized gas cans are durable and good at locking in fumes. They are usually round and can be snugly tucked into a gardening pot or bucket. This will give you at least 20 to 30 miles on most trucks or SUVs (assuming a conservative estimate of 10 mpg), and much more if your BOV is more fuel efficient.  Caches are an excellent method to store fuel for everyone because they build redundancy. If for some unexpected reason you are low on fuel en route to your destination- due to an issue such as theft- then having the security of supply points is invaluable.  Though not essential, storing some fuel at your BOL can be of value if you want to use your vehicle once settled in.

How much fuel is enough? That’s for you to decide. The magic number of gallons comes down to two factors: your vehicle’s gas mileage and the road range you want to have for your vehicle. For instance, I have decided to store 20 gallons of fuel for my car. This is based off my mileage and desired range. We want a range of at least 300 miles, which will get us far away from urban centers. The car gets about 17 MPG mixed driving and 22 MPG on the highway, but I have decided to be extremely conservative in my miles-per-gallon estimation and put it at 15. The extremely conservative mileage estimate gives exactly a 300 mile range assuming that fuel economy goes down the toilet. Estimate your own fuel economy very, very conservatively. If your BOV has a roof-rack, is carrying excess weight, or faces bad conditions like snow or damaged roads, then your efficiency will be dramatically affected. Additionally, stop-and-go traffic takes a heavy toll on efficiency. Although you will make every effort to evade them, there may be areas where roadways congest with vehicles. Always plan for the unexpected and give yourself breathing room.

As a rule, always assume your tank will be empty when an emergency hits.  By being dependent on average gas mileage and gasoline levels, you defy the entire spirit of prepping! Prepare for the worst, not the best!  Even so, try to keep a watchful eye on your gas tank. Always fill it up when the needle hits ¼ full, ensuring that you’ll have a small reserve in addition to the fuel stored. You should also make sure that you have adequate gas tanks to carry in your car if your fuel tank isn’t big enough for your fuel stores- this is only necessary if you choose to purchase a stationary, high-capacity gas tank instead of the traditional red portable ones. Invest in a wide funnel, too- you’d be surprised at how difficult it is to pour a heavy, 40-pound 6 gallon tank into a car.

Before I go on, I would like to briefly discuss alternative fuels for BOVs.  Diesel vehicles are more efficient than gasoline powered ones, and also pull more torque. Since diesel engines run on compression as opposed to gasoline’s combustion, the fuel is less flammable and safer to store. Use dedicated diesel fuel storage additives if you have a diesel BOV. Many preppers have also constructed gasifiers for their vehicles. The SurvivalBlog archives have a gushing trove of articles on alternative fuels, which would ultimately allow you to burn wood or other natural fuels to power a vehicle.  Additionally, diesel cars can run on vegetable oil or biodiesel, which is easy to obtain from restaurants (although I don’t know how many diners will be operating during Armageddon). There is a world of its own of fuels to replace oil-based ones, from trucks that run on used motor oil to hydrogen fuel cell hybrids.  Given the complexity and time consumption associated with these alternative fuels, most preppers- myself included- choose not to use them. But, they are definitely worthy of mention and I encourage everyone willing to dedicate the time and money to give alternative fuels consideration.

If you’re serious about wanting dependable vehicle, consider the other accessories or things you’ll need on the road or at your bug-out location. The first check on the list should be safety. The chances of an accident occurring are increased if we have seen our entire civilization crash and burn. There won’t be a highway patrol or state police to try to prevent or manage accidents. Keep a fire extinguisher in all your vehicles! It may seem unnecessary to extinguish a burning vehicle if TEOTWAWKI has occurred- a lot of us would just walk away, not wanting to loiter- but consider the possibility that a loved one could be inside. Additionally, all BOVs should contain a strong, hammer-like object accessible to the driver. They can be used to smash windows or pick through metal should one become entrapped in an inverted, flooded, or crushed vehicle. If snow is a prevalent weather concern for your region, purchase some tire chains for the rear/front wheels (depending on if the BOV is rear wheel drive, front wheel drive, or four wheel drive).

Stock your BOV with a complete auxiliary supply of motor oil on hand, to either replenish or change oil. Leave the oil drain pan behind.  I’ll hazard to guess that you won’t be concerned about the EPA coming after you for illegal oil disposal if society has collapsed. Be sure to have other fluids along for the ride, too, like power steering fluid, coolant, transmission fluid, and brake lubricants. You’re not going to be able to make these unless your BOL is a chemical refinery.  Perhaps, however, the best way to combat a stoppage of fuel or liquid is by way of a siphon. This will allow you to do a few things. For one, you can take fuel from abandoned vehicles (though hopefully you’ll already have the fuel needed stored).  If you own other cars, you can also transfer the fuel from one tank to the other before you leave.  A siphon, provided it is cleaned, will allow you to take other fluids from abandoned cars, such as motor oil. Remember that most engines on motorboats or propeller-driven planes use octane, too (100 octane aviation gas, or Avgas, is actually quite coveted given its excellent quality). You can take fuel out of abandoned boats or planes or and use it for your vehicle- just double-check and make sure the boat isn’t diesel powered. Fuel is the most restricting component of any engine. If you want to have the option of bugging out by vehicle, you might as well put up a small investment into making sure that vehicle can have fuel.  

I also advise investing in a full size spare tire for a BOV. If your BOV is a truck or SUV, this is likely already covered. But most sedans or crossovers carry only a small “donut” tire, if any at all, that is unstable and lacks the tread needed for a long road trip. Flat tires could be much more likely if there is an excessive amount of debris on roads. You can help reduce the chance of a flat by adding tire sealant to your tires (basically just liquid goo that swishes around and plugs a hole if one develops). Be prepared for a flat tire where you can’t limp to the nearest tire shop for tire repair- this means buying another rim and tire. Because this would only be for a few hundred miles, there’s no requirement to spend a lot of money on a brand new tire- either buy a cheap, used one with at least a quarter of a tread left, or save the one with some tread left next time you get your tires changed. A tire isn’t anything without air, too, so have on hand an air compressor for your BOV (also allowing you to deflate your tires temporarily if you need better traction, and re-fill them later on. )If indeed your vehicle is your only chance of bugging out safely given your environment, I strongly recommend you take precautions against vehicle emergencies, as it will be more of a lifeline to yourself and any companions.

Routes, too, should be altered when bugging out by vehicle in order to maximize the chances that open roads will be available. You might have planned to hike or drive 100 miles up the interstate to your location, but take into consideration the sheer number of people that will be using these routes before their last tank of fuel runs out. That’s why it’s not so much the most direct route, but rather the least populated route when using a BOV. Highways will often be the first to be shut down in a crisis, while more localized roads should survive longer. At all costs, avoid congested and populated areas! This is a rule of thumb that must be followed for any bug-out situation. Modify your routes to make every attempt to circumvent population centers. Be sure to adjust your fuel stores accordingly.

Now, we have at last arrived at the actual execution of the bug-out. The vehicle is packed and ready to go, and awaits your call to bug-out. This is where decision making and luck mate. Depending on when you hit the road, you could either be fighting off masses of unprepared civilians or safely at your BOL.  Your decision should be primarily based on consideration of being first or being last. Keep in mind that if your vehicle is usable, so is everyone else’s. If you live in an urban center, there will be hundreds of thousands, maybe millions, of cars trying to flee. It is best to be the first to get out, once you recognize that the Schumer has hit the fan.  But, if you believe that roads are going to be too clogged (guaranteed after at least an hour or two), then hold out as long as you can in your own residence. Protect your vehicle and bug-out supplies, and hide your fuel. Lay low. You will not have to wait long. Within a few days, nearly all gasoline stores will have been depleted and shipments will be non-existent. Now is when you pull the trigger and turn the ignition. Only a few cars will be on the road by this time, as the majority of car owners will have panicked and used up any remaining gas in their tank (in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, this occurred at a very rapid pace.) NEVER gamble on the chance of getting caught in a mob of cars on a freeway! Clogged roads will quickly turn into a full-on war zone as marauders loot and plunder for fuel, food, and other supplies. When in doubt, wait it out.  

Driving at TEOTWAWKI will be nothing like driving to work. It is imperative that safety is your primary concern. Anyone who has been smart enough to store food and fuel will quickly become a high-profile target on roadways. You should try to travel in groups, in as few vehicles as possible, to allow for easier defense your BOV.  Instruct other occupants to scan the roadside for threats with the firearms you have chosen to take with you. An opened sunroof works great as a tactical turret for a rifleman. The rifleman has a high-up vantage point and 360 degrees of view- it also makes dealing with oncoming cars or pedestrians easier.  I won’t delve into the subject of defensive weapons, but a vehicle demands certain requirements. A high-powered rifle is essential to deter or eliminate incoming threats before they are within striking distance of the vehicle. For mobs, a shotgun loaded with wide-spray shells will provide a wide spray of lead pellets to disperse a surrounding group of people. Having multiple riflemen in the vehicle is invaluable. Think of your BOV as a World War II bomber. The position analogous to a rotating turret (the sunroof or front-seat gunner) should locate potential adversaries while clearing a path ahead. The "turret" is supplemented by riflemen on each side window (like waist gunners on a bomber) to guard your flanks. Finally, a “tail gunner” is responsible for protecting the rear of the vehicle. Be extremely conscious of the feeble protection provided by glass windows, and use the bottom of a door for slightly better ballistic protection in a firefight. If you’re really serious about making a dedicated BOV, then replace side windows with metal sheets, leaving a small hole for a rifle barrel.  You could supplement rear and front windshields with plexiglas.

When in high-threat urban areas, drive as fast as possible as your vehicle may become a target for others who have exhausted their own fuel.  Once on the highway or less populated roads, slow down to increase fuel range. High-speeds above 65 m.p.h. require high RPM rates. Most cars will be able to shift into a low-consumption overdrive at slower speeds. This is why speed limits were reduced during the 1970s gas crisis. Each vehicle’s optimal speed is different. It’s easy to find the niche, though. All you need to do is find the the slowest speed possible for your highest gear, which should be between 40 and 60 mph. Use cruise control if possible to hold a steady speed. Avoid turning on the air conditioning. Running the heater is okay , as it does not sap engine power.  More food for thought when considering your bug out: slower, constant speeds on the highway result in extended range. Driving in panic mode at 80 miles per hour up the highway will dramatically reduce mileage. Keep this in mind if you are ever bugging out by vehicle.  

Cars aren’t the only kinds of BOVs around that you should give thought to.  ATVs, motorcycles, and scooters are excellent when it comes to maneuverability, storage, and fuel consumption. If you happen to live in a very congested environment- like the city, give a smaller vehicle a look. Most have a range of at least a hundred miles to get you out of town on full tank of gas. If you can devise a way to carry more fuel, them more power to you. (It’s worth mentioning that many bikers carry spare fuel in small , 1-2 liter stove fuel bottles, like the red MSR fuel bottles used by backpackers). There are also 1-gallon plastic tanks available designed to slip into a saddle bag- for ATVs, gas cans can be lashed to the front or rear of the ATV. BOVs of this nature can be bought for less than cars, and often give more capabilities to the rider off-road or on narrow streets.

Even though I’m ready to dump 20 gallons of gas into my car and head for the hills if I have the opportunity to, there’s an alternative that doesn’t need any. That’s because it’s powered by good old human strength, fueled by just food, air, and water. A bicycle, in my opinion, is one of the best transportation systems ever devised and is one of the best BOVs a prepper can choose. No need to worry about EMPs, gas mileage, or roadblocks. If a human body can walk there, chances are a bike can ride there. Plus, it costs very little to maintain and the equivalent of a few tanks of gas to buy. I strongly encourage everyone to have a bicycle on hand in the event of an EMP, allowing them a much quicker bug-out while carrying their BOB.  If you can fit them in your gas-powered BOV, then take advantage of it.  I advise taking off the front wheel to make packing easier, or bolting racks to the side of a truck bed or trailer. For those who have a need for speed post-EMP, bikes can offer an often overlooked solution.  I have a friend who purchased a gas engine kit that he installed on his bike, for about $250. A multitude of companies make these kits that can propel a bike many times faster than a rider can (the one I rode got up to about 40 m.p.h., and the ¾ gallon fuel tank allows for about 100 miles before refilling is needed).  

There’s one other thing should most certainly be said for preparing  - these preparations into a bugging-out car go beyond trying to be ready for a complete collapse of society. They should translate into your every-day life, too. It’s always advisable to have certain items in your car so you can be prepared for any everyday emergency that could arise. After all, isn’t that what the culture of survivalism is all about?  Being ready for everything from a flat tire to widespread rioting? You never know when your provisions or knowledge about vehicles could be useful in your daily life. If you’ve ever had to add oil to your car,then you’ve probably been thankful you had some on hand.  If you want to have a car in working order for doomsday, then you may as well prepare for everyday obstacles. And helping others goes a long way! Many of us have been stimulated to prep because we’ve come in contact with serious survivalists, inspiring us to spread survivalism and try to prepare our world better for a catastrophe.

Man and machine have always had an inseparable bond. But come TEOTWAWKI, the bond will be tested, and humanity’s present-day "faithful steed" will fade away. When that day comes, when carburetors no longer breathe and tires no longer turn, there will be only one bug-out-vehicle that’s left. This remarkable, durable, reliable BOV isn’t powered by gasoline, and it doesn’t need four-wheel drive. It can’t be stopped by flat tires, or clogged filters. And it comes standard with a factory-installed fortitude that can withstand any opposition. There’s over 7 billion of these particular BOVs manufactured, but each one is unique, and only a few of them will remain when the dust settles. That bug-out vehicle is yourself. Remember that you run on good old ingenuity, resourcefulness, and willpower. You have a gas tank that seems to always have a little bit left, even when the road starts to disappear and the parts start to rattle. This drive train, this humanity, sets a survivalist miles ahead of even the scrappiest V-8. When the chips are down, it won’t matter who’s got the bigger truck. What will matter is something that has set humans apart from each other since the dawn of days, and something that will separate them at the end of days. That one thing is self-reliance, the cornerstone of survivalism! Bearing those integral principles in mind, I hope that this will invigorate thought on supplementing TEOTWAWKI plans with a vehicle.  Good luck to all of you, and as always, “Prepare for the worst, hope for the best!”

Listed below are mandatory needs, issues and items needed to successfully survive and weather any major natural disasters, deadly germ outbreaks, or government invasions such as martial law. This is a basic outline and your needs may differ according to location, elevation, and of course finances. Money is the root of all evil, but you will definitely need some to accomplish your survival goals.

Land and water are virtually priceless. The first and foremost thing needed to build a survival compound is water and land. Land as far away from large cities is ideal. Either find a piece of land that you can afford to install a well on or find a location that has a well cooperative. Water is key. Without water, you are done. Small rivers, creeks or springs are essential without a well. You will die without a water source. There are water machines that make water out of thin air, but they are costly and rely on humidity. Even then, you will probably only acquire enough water for drinking and food needs. You have to consider hygiene issues such as bathing and dishwashing among other things. Water is also needed for gardening and animals.

After that, you need to secure your property. Fencing such as a block wall, chain link or wired fence is ideal. Razor wire or equivalent is highly recommended along the top of your fence to provide added security. If unwanted visitors get in, they may not make it out. Locked gates with razor wire allow you access in and out easily while forcing others to cut your gate chains and alerting your animals. Dogs are great alarms and notify you of unwanted visitors. Plan on investing in a family pet that serves as a loveable alarm. You can also install fence alarms or electric fencing, but they require more power and cost.   

After your perimeter security, you need a place to dwell. Recreational vehicles (RVs) or a small cabin are ideal and cost-effective. If done correctly, an RV can be expanded if needed. A “mud room” can be built and attached to an RV. A “mud room” adds living space and a lot of extra room for a large home feeling. All the amenities of having a kitchen, bathroom, bedroom(s) and shower are in the RV; and you can build a large living room or “mud room” attached to the door side of the RV. It sounds crazy, but is very affordable and gives you a larger living space. Also, a wood-burning stove can be installed in this area to provide winter heating. Also, a wood-burning stove can be used to cook on. Thanksgiving Day is a breeze with a turkey on the wood burner overnight and prepared the day before. Wood burners are reliable and eliminate the need to use propane for heating and cooking during the winter months.

Propane may be a hard commodity to find as well as firewood, so plan ahead. Chainsaw(s) are essential, and the more expensive, the better. Husqvarna and Stihl are the best chainsaws in my opinion, and cords of wood are mandatory. Without a fireplace or stove, and a reliable chainsaw, you are done! Winter months can be brutal, and you will need these items to survive. Gas reserves, 2-stroke oil, and propane will make life much more comfortable during the winter months. Make sure you have resources near you, and plan on extra fuel for your pick-up truck or SUV with a trailer to transport your firewood.

Power comes next. Power is critical. Relying on the power grid is stupid. The best thing to do is build your own power supply. Batteries and a power supply are crucial. This is easy but expensive. Big “off-the-grid” batteries are costly, and a big battery bank can break the bank quick. Instead, try using large marine deep cycle batteries available from your local hardware store or big outlet stores such as Ace Hardware, Sears, or Wal-Mart. Well-maintained batteries will perform well, and are part of your secure compound.

To supply power to your batteries, you will need a wind generator and/or photovoltaic (PV) panels. Using both will greatly improve your power source to keep your batteries charged. Both are simple enough to install, and will keep your lights and refrigerator running smoothly.

Some suggest wiring your battery bank in a 24 or 48 volt bank, but many items run on 12 volts. Water pumps, water heaters, and lights are available in 12 volt, and readily available at many locations. PV panels and wind generators are available in 12 volt, and coordinate well with all the needed accessories such as batteries, water pumps, and lighting.

You will need certain items with your power system such as inverters and charge controllers. Inverters can power your AC devices such as television, DVD player, computer, microwave oven and compact refrigerator. Charge controllers will regulate your incoming power supply to your batteries and keep them from overcharging. Both inverters and charge controllers will make your life a lot easier. Reading and understanding how these systems operate together will help greatly in your survival. Use the internet while you can for knowledge on this information. Spend some time and learn how these systems work and interact with each other, otherwise you will be paying contractors to build your system and repair it. Self-reliance means you are on your own, and you need to know how to service, maintain, and repair problems in your power system.

After studying how to have modern conveniences in your compound, you need food. As discussed earlier, water is key to food. A supply of non-GMO vegetable seeds and gardening knowledge is essential. In summer months, having a garden is lovely. Fruits and vegetables without chemicals are beautiful, fun, and tasty. Fresh salads in the middle of nowhere are awesome. In winter months, gardens seem to fizzle. To combat this problem, learn about canning and food preservation. Canning your garden goodies for the winter are mandatory to survive. Canning fresh veggies will allow you to have tasty treats in the winter months.

Storable food is always reliable. It may not taste as good as fresh items, but can come in handy when needed. There are many sources for storable food, so you need to do some homework. Find what you like, what you can stomach, and what stores the longest. Buying food that you can store needs to be edible and withstand storage. Always keep these reserves cool, dark and dry. More importantly, you need baking/cooking supplies such as flour, sugar, yeast, and anything you deem needed. Sealed supplies will make life easier in an emergency.
Livestock, such as chickens, cows, pigs, turkeys, or other animals will breed and provide a great source of food. They require care, food, and treatment.  You get a reliable small farm for meats, dairy products, homemade cheeses, and milk.

Sheds or storage facilities are also helpful. If you can afford it, bunker type systems are useful, reliable, and concealable. If possible, hide your gear, goodies, food, and other supplies underground. This will prolong your resources from being found or stolen.

After planning, building, and fortifying your compound, you need to protect it. Some people are against weapons. Foolish people do foolish things. Arming yourself is not a foolish thing.. The government is stockpiling ammo. You should too. Common weapons and ammo will help you stay stocked up on a plethora of resources. Buy weapons and learn how to use them. If you have never used guns, then learn now. Your family's survival may depend on it, and you need to be prepared. There are thousands of guns to buy. The best selection would be what the police and military use. Anything in .40 caliber or .223 caliber is advisable. There are many reliable types of guns and ammo, but you should use what may be readily available. If it is good enough for the police, it should work fine for you. After all this work, you should be prepared and ready. Bad things happen to good people, so be prepared.

Fuel reserves should also be considered. Fuel supplies for wood cutting, hunting, and possibly water runs are mandatory. Evacuations from your compound may be needed for short periods of time or longer, so have some fuel reserves available.

Once you have made it this far, consider “fire watches” or patrols around your complex. Warm, winter gear during the winter months will help greatly. An alert brisk walk around your area every 20 minutes will keep most people away. It will be helpful to have family members to take shifts or “watches”  around the clock when the time comes.

This all requires some knowledge of everything. The more you do yourself, the more you will understand and appreciate. If you hire someone to do these things listed above, you probably will not make it far. The more you understand about survival, the more you do yourself. Remember, not knowing these things may contribute to your own demise. Understand your surroundings and learn as much as you can. Researching all this information will lead you to other interesting ideas. Study, research, and learn these tips. Your survival will someday rely on this. Large cities will not provide this level of safety and security. Learn, invest and plan now for your survival later.

Dear Editor:
This is in response to Your Get Home Plan by J.A.F.:  My commute is only one hour by train (about 25 miles.) This is a considerable distance to travel on foot.  I wear a suit while I'm at work, but I commute in jeans, button down shirt and hiking boots.  My suit goes into an Eagle Creek garment folder, and the shirt, pants and jacket come out of the folder looking pretty good, with few, if any, creases.  My dress shoes and belt stay in my office.  I use a CamelBak BFM bag that works year round, as it has the space for Goretex, fleece and any other snivel gear during the winter.  Inside Camelbak, I have the following:
 
1) Two Nalgene water bottles on each side, one of which fits into a metal cup I would use for boiling water.  The other Nalgene has about 10 feet of duct tape wrapped around it. 
 
2) Between my back and the pack there is a zip up pouch that usually holds the hydration bladder, but which I've replaced with two thermal blankets and two contractor weight plastic garbage bags that I can use for multiple purposes.
 
3) Inside, I have a 60 litre waterproof Storm Sack that I envision using to put the pack and my clothes in to ford any body of water that I need to.  I also have a 40 litre backpack cover for use in the rain.
 
4) I also have a well-stocked survival /medical trauma kit and a good three inch length fixed blade sheath knife.
 
Hope this gives you some good ideas. - Troglodyte

James Wesley:
In response to the article by the man that plans walking home from Washington, DC to a suburb up in Maryland.
 
I have a 'Razor' scooter that I bought from Wal-Mart for $110.  It will carry 220 pounds.  I use it with my kids.  But it is really an adult scooter.
 
The YouTuber NutnFancy has a couple of videos about using a scooters a get home vehicle in an emergency for commuters.  Not everyone has a car or bicycle.
He recommends an American made & more expensive model.  There are two American made scooters, Goped and Xootr. I believe one of these American made kick-scooters can carry 300-to-500 lbs. 
 
It's  pointed out that it might fit in a cabinet or big lockable drawer at work.  No one would 'think' to steal it if it was chain-locked under the desk.  Or, at least until after you got home 60 miles away in one day.
 
There are videos on YouTube about adults using kick-scooters for in city commuting  and from train stations to the office and back every day.
 
There are plenty of articles about scooters on the web.  This includes information about the wheels and which ones are best for wet-sidewalks and bumpy surfaces.  The cheapo one that I have will dump a person on their keester if they hit a big-crack in the concrete wrong. - Pat N.

JWR Adds: I concur that for "get me home" trips over short distances in urban areas, scooters make a lot of sense. Among the inexpensive imported scooters, the Micro brand scooter has larger wheels than the Razor, and is hence safer on rough pavement. (Look for inexpensive used ones on Craigslist.) In my estimation, adult-size kick scooters have three key advantages over bicycles: 1.) They are very compact when folded, so you can keep one stored in a spare file cabinet drawer or in a credenza at your office. 2.) They have solid rubber tires that can stand up to sharp road debris. (This is particularly important after an earthquake, hurricane, or tornado.) and 2.) They leave you less vulnerable to attack. (With a scooter, you are very low to the ground. So if an attacker rushes you, all you have to do is brake briefly, step off, draw a weapon, and take up a fighting stance. But on a bicycle, you sit much higher, and will probably be traveling faster. All it takes is a broomstick, baton, or a chunk of a tree branch thrust into the spinning wheel spokes, and you will be sent flying.) Granted, modern geared bicycles are the most efficient human-powered transport ever invented. But despite their relative inefficiency, kick scooters can play a key role in your "get home" planning.

I was born and raised on a farm, lived military and worked all my life, so I am accustomed to hard work and understand the need for a strong physical body. After years of working 10-12 hours a day, I decided to go back to college at nights to get a degree in pastoral studies, so I could keep busy during my ‘retirement’ years. In August, 2005 my life changed with a bad accident, now, disabled and in a wheelchair, my life is upside down and for me it was TEOTWAWKI.  I have always been a prepper and I’m not really sure why, a habit passed down in our family since the great depression. I never ever realized the importance of it until that day.  I am now a firm believer that all people need to be aware of what can happen and to be more prepared for all possibilities. Suddenly I couldn’t work, was facing multiple surgeries and the whole world looked different. Let me tell you now, everything we’ve been told about assistance if you ever become disabled is……..not the truth. For 14 months afterward I had no income and nothing but medical bills and no insurance (COBRA insurance was more expensive than the mortgage.) My choices became clear, sell everything I own (even though I could not prepare it for sale) and move into a nursing home, or get help at home. Luckily, my daughter and grandson moved in with me. We lived off our savings and food storage. I taught my family to forage, seems like in all our years of plenty, I have forgotten to teach my children and grandchildren the skills my grandmother taught me as a child. We ate our salads from the front yard and our garden; the food storage carried us through along with thoughtful friends who would at first bring in meals or a cake or pie. We saved the home, barely.

 Everyone needs to think now about what you would do if someone became disabled during SHTF and how you would care for them.  We now consider ourselves lucky we have already prepared for health related issues. Most preppers I know are my age, Viet Nam era people, we older preppers need to cover all our contingencies, as age itself has its own problems. Have you thought about how you might transport, lift, mobilize and care for a handicap or elderly loved one? Think about it now, even if no one in the family is currently handicap, you never know when something will happen. Anyone who is an active, healthy and disciplined person today can be disabled tomorrow. It could hit you like it did me, literally out of the blue, on a Friday night.

Initially I did not think about our prepping supplies or bug-out locations, only about making it from one day to the next. Now in a wheelchair, the house had to be modified, adaptive aids purchased, a ramp had to be built, our home had to be rearranged, lifts had to be installed, doorways widened and a disability van purchased. These things took extra money I did not have. Modifying our prepper supplies had to wait, and modifying our bug-out locations was way in the future. But now, years down the road, some of what I learned is that no amount of money saved is enough, unless you are in the 1%. One year of food storage is not enough, it can be stretched and stretched, but when it is gone it is most definitely gone. People won’t look at you the same, and that is fine, you don’t see them in the same light either. Some people who professed to be your best friend won’t be found anywhere. And most importantly, you will reevaluate your life and everything in it, including your faith. In times like these, you need to go ahead and pull out the good china and crystal to use every day, “enjoy it now” became my theme. I wish I had done that earlier in life. 

Many survivalists believe in the ‘survival of the fittest’ theory, and would be the first to leave the disabled and handicapped behind. There is something to be said for that, for if I become a burden to my family, as hard as it would be, I know that I would have to stay behind and let them go on. That would be very, very hard for me and for them, but we have discussed it to great lengths and all understand that it could be inevitable. Once said and understood by all, next step is to plan around my disabilities and see how to incorporate these new needs. I realized physically, I need the same thing as everyone else; food, water, shelter, self-defense, a potty, a place to sleep and something to read (my Bible), only my needs are now met in a different way.  We realized we don’t need two sets of preps; my preparations can work for the whole family, while their preparations won’t work for me. Sometimes I feel I am a burden to the family when they remind me that I bring wisdom, humor and hugs to the table. I know ways to defend my family, ways to gather and grow food, how to sew and make anything we need without a pattern and how to wiggle thru life to thrive, not just to survive. Everyone who has life can contribute something, even if it is just the gift of their presences, never, never discount a handicap or disabled person as less than human.

It goes without saying, if you have an electric wheelchair, always keep it charged. I have my charging unit in a backpack over the back handles of my wheelchair, so it is always with me. Have an alternate way to charge it, like a small generator or independent power supply system. My wheelchair has hidden pockets where I can keep pepper spray/mace or a weapon. Many handicap persons are not capable of handling or carrying a handgun or weapon. Also, not all physically handicapped persons are mentally handicapped. I have been surprised since my accident how many people have spoken to me in baby talk or less expecting that since I am in a wheelchair, I’m probably mentally challenged also. I want to hit those people, not only for thinking something so stupid, but for every mentally challenged person out there that has had to put up with stupid people like that. People also tend to find handicap people as vulnerable, and treat us that way. Thank goodness I already had a permit to carry a concealed weapon. My attitude is ‘don’t mess with me, in or out of my wheelchair’ It’s important not to look vulnerable, even the home. When someone looks at your home and sees a ramp, automatically you become a target. Our handicap ramp is to the side and landscaped in a way it doesn’t show. Disability license plates give you away also, so it is smarter to use a removable "hang ticket" [attached to the rearview mirror] instead of a plate.

Many modifications can be made at home, for instance; my daughter created an easy chair for me by adding heavy duty caster rollers to the legs of a plastic outdoor yard chair, it is really handy and easy for us all. My wheelchair can also be used to transport barrels of water, cast iron cookpots, sandbags and other heavy items. Transfer boards can be made from any heavy plastic or smooth wooden boards and used to move any heavy object from one place to another.  Sock pullers can be made from old bleach bottles and a bit of rope by cutting off the top and bottom and slitting the side then attaching long rope handles. The sock is then placed on top of the bottle and pulled onto the foot.

We realized we needed to make minor changes to our accessory bug-out sites also. We have four bug-out locations, one in each direction. Some are in conjunction with other family members, some are only for us, depending on which way we have to travel (hopefully we would not have to travel and could hunker down here at home).  Many of the little things I don’t need everyday any more, we have moved to our ‘Bugoutmobile’ to ease the burden. I suggest people consider adding bed wedges, adult diapers, transfer boards, reachers, portable handicap potties, rollator or walker, small portable lift system, and transfer chairs to their preps. If you have these accessories you will be able to care for almost anyone in any situation.

But the most important thing is to nurture close family relationships, as nothing can be more important to your survival. Do whatever it takes to keep your family first, to keep you all together and to learn to live with each other in a confined area. Everyone has to sacrifice; everyone has to give, to live in a happy community atmosphere. You have to diligently work to achieve family accord; it doesn’t come automatically just because you are all family. Practicing now dealing with your family in a confined space will let your family learn what traits they need to work on, because when SHTF you may have wished you had already learned this lesson and already worked out these issues. Also, living in a confined space, you may reconsider how many beans you have in storage.

 I’d like to share some things that may help someone else, things I learned the hard way. There is a difference between early, regular and disabled pension. If you must leave work due to an accident to take your pension, take a disability pension. There is a difference between transfer chair, wheelchairs and electric chairs. Transfer chairs are lightweight and inexpensive for temporary use (or prepping), wheel chairs are manual heavy duty, and electric chairs are wheelchairs that are battery pack for people who do not have full use their arms. Some auto manufactures will give you a discount for ordering a new disability fully-equipped van (some changes to policy have been made since the recession of 2008). The National Park system issues ‘Access Passes’ granting free access to a permanently disabled person good for the rest of their lifetime. Look for assistance from Community Action groups (like Agency on Aging) not from where you would expect. Adaptive aids make all the difference in the world. Items like reachers, transfer boards, leg lifters, bed wedges, bathroom and dressing aids, wheeled carts and baskets, sock pullers and gel pads are all helpful for older preppers.  Prepping is for hard times, and in hard times you still need to make life as simple as possible. All older preppers as well as those with a disabled family member should consider looking carefully at your in-home and bug-out supplies.    

There were cocky young men in my office that stood over me and defiantly said they would never be disabled, it would never happen to them, they are strong and would overcome any physical injury. Well, I probably felt the same way when I was around 17 years old. But I have learned over the years that nothing is impossible, everything isn’t what it professes to be, you can count your true friends on one hand and taking care of your family is a virtue, whatever their condition.  So believe in miracles and prepare for anything, even disability.

If you would like to add these two sites to your bookmarks, it took me forever to find these places for things I needed:    http://www.bruno.com/vehicle-lifts-all-models.html and
http://www.wrightstuff.biz/

Good Morning Jim,
I would like to add my wholehearted support to the article “Cycling into TEOTWAWKI” by Mine T. I have been an enthusiastic Cyclist for many years, and consider a well set up bicycle to be an excellent option for bugging out, when staying where you are is not an option. I also believe a bicycle will give urban preppers a considerable advantage to those attempting to get out of dodge on foot, or even by four wheeled vehicle. A bicycle can go just about anywhere, so the option of riding out of a city along footpaths, railway lines, drainage culverts, and in the UK, old Canal Paths, would be a definite possibility.
 
My current choice of touring bike is a Surly Ogre. The Ogre is the latest generation of 29” wheeled mountain bikes, which has been specifically designed for long distance off-road touring. (I have no connection with the company, other than being a satisfied customer). The Ogre is built in the USA, and could be described as the John Deer Tractor of Bicycles, thanks to its strength and  the unlimited set up options, including a huge number of mounting positions for water / Fuel bottles and accessories. It can be set up for Hub Gears, Trailers, Disk Brakes, extra wide tires, and just about anything else you could think of.  My choice of 29” Schwalbe Marathon tires really come into their own on long trips, on or off road.
 
I fitted my Ogre with Old Man Mountain front and rear racks http://www.oldmanmountain.com/  and Ortlieb Back Roller Plus Panniers (front and rear)in a subdued Hazel brown colour. These give me plenty of storage space for extended trips of a week or more.  By caching food and other supplies at strategic points along your bug out route, you could remain mobile for months at a time.
 
I will send you a full review of the bike and the other touring equipment I use later in the year, once I’ve had a chance to give it  a full trial.
 
All the best, - Andrew in England
 

 

Dear Jim:
MineT wrote a great article!   When you really think about it, a bike in the back of your car or truck is likely the most effective way to get home when driving is no longer an option due to blocked roads, car damage, etc., etc.

When a crisis hits you are going to want to get home immediately, if not sooner!   10 miles hiking is a 5 hour trek at 2 mph, 20 miles is a full day.  Biking on any kind of road surface at 10 mph is easy, so you would get home in just one or two hours.    And you when you get home you will have much more energy left to deal with the situation.

The problem  is the space - even with wheels off, a bike takes up a lot of room.  (A motorcycle, moped or electric bike would be even faster to get home if only you had the space to carry it around all the time.)   Bike racks outside the car are a possible solution, but leave your bike vulnerable to theft and the weather (and decrease your mileage).

For convenience and practicality I have my eye on a Montague folding bike that can be kept safe and discreet in the trunk. A nod to SurvivalBlog advertiser Ready Made Resources, they have a good selection and great prices:
[JWR Adds: I've owned a Montague folding bike for two years, and I love it. It is very reliable and folds up quite compactly.]

Regarding type of bike:  I would not even consider a road bike. [In disaster situations] you need the robustness and reliability of a mountain bike.  (Put slick tires on to reduce the weight and rolling resistance if you are mostly road riding.)

There is much less chance of flat tires on a mountain bike, and you have many more route options of road or trail surfaces that can be ridden.

Definitely install tire liner inserts, (e.g., Mr. Tuffys) and/or a tire sealant.  I do both on serious backcountry trips.

Reliability is the key when you are on your own. Regards, - OSOM

Cycling has many facets that could attract people preparing for the time when the comforts we have been so accustom to are no longer available. Pick your scenario for the drastic change in our future and a bicycle might be able to handle some of the chores that a computer controlled fossil fuel vehicle may no longer be capable of. If the family car is incapacitated, how will you get from point A to point B?

But one can't expect to just shell out some money on a human powered urban assault vehicle, and one day just pick it up and head out towards the burning horizon as if it’s a normal evening sunset. I’m going to attempt to write this article to the person who’s looking to add this option by doing research, making wise purchases, testing equipment, and training properly, just like any other prepping should be done.

You’d think silly of me if I bought a firearm for self-defense, loaded the one magazine provided with ammunition I bought from a yard sale, placed it under my pillow, and then expected it (or me) to instantly be ready to fend off anything more than a girl scout ringing the doorbell with a wagon full of cookies. If you consider this a viable threat, I apologize for making light of it, and you might want to talk to somebody about that. But I digress. You should have done your research, talked the poor guy behind the counter at the local gun store into insanity, purchased a firearm and accessories based on your intended use, and budgeted for ammunition to test and train for the moment of truth. Cycling is no different, except for the slinging of lead and the fact that training is much, much cheaper. You should do the research, buy from a local bike shop (can’t stress this enough, as a working relationship with a good bike shop will pay for itself), and train, train, train.

This should lead to a high confidence level that you and your bicycle can reach its planned destination while carrying the gear necessary for the trip. Confidence will come from not only the tested gear, but the change in physical health that the training is going to afford you. I’m not going to assume you have already put in the amount of seat time it takes to get those sit bones in tune for a day of cycling past the no longer gas guzzling modern dinosaurs stuck on the road after TSHTF. To get there, you’ll need to add cycling to your current physical training routine. If a physical training plan doesn’t exist, cycling is the perfect place to start.

Cycling Out Scenarios

Immediate bug out
For us who are still looking for that perfect land to wait out the Apocalypse, we still consider abandoning our current digs for better ones immediately upon realizing that the grid is down and ain’t coming back soon. Walking doesn’t get us very far, and we’ve got to carry everything we need on our backs. It goes without saying that if this isn’t something you have trained for, you might still be able to look back and see your own mailbox before you decide where you’re making camp for the night.

Forced bug out
All but the most fortified and mega-stocked castle-on-a-hill should have a bug out scenario at least in the realm of possibility, or have graves already dug. By the time stores run out, and the angry mobs have eaten each other, cycling can give you that 100+ mile range when the fuel pumps have run dry, and your Hummer is out of commission. You’ve got your maps and have contacted a community with your short wave radio; but how do you get there carrying what you need for the trip when cars are incapacitated and roads are impassable? Your cycle choice and training can step up to the challenge.

Cycling home
Many people who have prepared their suburban homes for disaster work in more urban areas due to the higher paying jobs. For them, being at work when the news gets bad is a concern. Trying to get out of a densely populated area in a car on limited road space due to everyone else trying to do the same might become problematic. If getting home by car is no longer an option, cycling can be a much faster alternative to hoofing it. A ten mile commute on back roads via bike is a 45 minute ride with limited training vs. half of a day. 35 to 50 miles and more is possible in the same time it would take to walk. With no impact on your joints from the ride, you might be of some good when you get there to bunker down and defend your home.

Shelter in Place
You might think in this scenario that a bike would be useless, but I’d like to argue the point. Exercise will still be important no matter where you find security. A cycle trainer can turn your outdoor bike into an indoor gym. Even if you’re 10 feet under concrete avoiding the nuclear winter, you won’t have to have memorized your favorite 90 minute exercise DVD to get in a good workout. You’re gonna want to keep that heart in good shape for when you pop the hatch and greet the new world. Also consider the power you’re generating with that spinning wheel. That could run a generator that keeps batteries charged or run small appliances. With a little ingenuity, this energy can be used in a number of ways. Hook it to a water pump normally run by a drill and you can move stored non-potable water up to a tank on the roof to flush the last working toilet in existence. This might be a topic for another paper.

Bike Choices

Road
Road bikes are very specialized machines for exactly what they’re named for; the road. If your plan includes pavement from point A to point B, and you train for the situation, a road bike can get you home in a hurry while your coworkers are stuck on clogged roads. I mention training due to the fact that these speed demons are to be ridden bent over and don’t have any creature comforts. 100 psi tire pressures, a rigid architecture, and a seat hard enough to deflect incoming artillery make for an uncomfortable ride if you aren’t prepared for it. The component sets are built for speed, not abuse. I’m not saying they are particularly fragile, just designed for the road. That being said, if you pick up road cycling as a hobby, you won’t blink at a 25 or 30 mile ride for fun, much less as a way home in an emergency.

Mountain
A mountain bike might seem like a better choice, and for most initially riding one is a lot easier. If you’re G.O.O.D plan is off the side of a mountain into the valley below, you can stop reading here and buy a downhill special. If crossing numerous unimproved sections of land is in order, this is your choice mode of transportation. But these bikes can be very inefficient on the road and can drain your energy much faster. Your level of comfort and durability go way up, and if the distance isn’t a factor, a mountain bike might be your choice. A general rule is the more suspension travel the more energy will be robbed from each rotation of the pedals. Also, picking an aggressive tread pattern increases the rolling resistance you’ll experience. Much like the road bike, if you’ve trained for it, this type of bike can do the miles.

Hybrid
The type of bike I ride is what’s considered a hybrid. This is a broad category. They can range from dual suspension to a rigid frame and forks. From a wider (not mountain wide) tire with 60 psi, to a slim road tire with 100+ psi. Many sport a flat style handle bar. It is the most identifiable feature, and a huge difference between it and the road bike. The other difference is that they usually sit more upright, making it a more familiar ride to beginners. Thinner tires and less suspension separate it from the mountain bikes. Commuter bikes fall into this category, and have some features that are attractive to someone who’s looking for all-weather reliability. Commuters don’t take days off just because the weather turns on them, and neither will you in an emergency situation. They can have better component sets, sealed bearings, and disc brakes for better performance in inclement weather. Hybrid and commuter bikes are often drilled out in places specifically designed for mounting racks for bags. This isn’t mandatory but will facilitate mounting these later.

As mentioned, tires for these semi-thin rimmed machines range from slick and stiff to knobbed and squishy. Depending on your planned route, road tires give you much less rolling resistance and more miles for your efforts. The tradeoff is in traction on any (and I mean any) dirt or gravel covered terrain. Also, durability is not their strong suit. If you do run road tires, you have to be careful of any debris or deformity in the road. Fortunately, there’s a whole sport based on good rolling and high traction tires. Cyclocross tires are perfect for both on and off road. They might not save you in an extreme downhill situation, but for general on and off road use, cyclocross tires are worth looking at.

Bug Out Cycling Gear

Safety
As with most of this paper, this is practical information for every cyclist, regardless of the situation. Number one: Do not ride a bike without a helmet. Bike helmets are very lightweight, and you won’t even notice it two minutes into a ride. Note: Cycling helmets are good for one impact. Get a new one if it ends up saving your skull from impact. Number 2: Lights should be used when cycling in any type of traffic or on public accessible roads. Unless you determine your bug out a “blackout situation”, a blinking red light to the rear and a blinking white light to the front should be flashing at all times. Work gloves and safety glasses are part of my B.O.B., and the ones I’ve selected to get me through Armageddon are just fine for commuting or escaping an urban disaster to get home. Glasses will help keep you in control if something hits you in the face. The gloves have a padded palm to give some comfort from leaning on the bars for prolonged periods of time. I have cycling gloves, but my mechanic style gloves get the call if I’m loading up my 72 hour bag and heading for safer ground.

Pedals/Shoes
Pedals come in three main flavors: platform, clips, or clipless. I’m going to eliminate clips altogether. I consider them the most dangerous of the three, and the least effective. I’m going to recommend cycling shoes and clipless pedals, because they put a lot more of your power to the ground and are safer than any other type of pedal. I’m not sure most who don’t use them would agree, but the ones who do will never, ever go back. If you plan on doing a “century” (cycle slang for 100 miles in a day), or just toolin’ around town, clipless pedals are head and shoulders above your other options. Conversely; platform pedals (the ones you’re used to from when you were a kid on your Huffy) offer you a shoe alternative that most clipless pedals don’t. The answer can be clipless pedals with a platform around them. That way, if you have to ride without your bike shoes, you can do so effectively. It’s the win/win situation we’re all looking for. They are available from different manufacturers.

Shoes for road bikes are once again designed only for riding, and walking in them can be kind of like walking in swim fins and sound like tap shoes. Shoes designed for mountain biking use the same pedal attachment (cleat) as the road shoes, but are designed to put your foot down when you need to, and walk around much better. When buying this combination, keep in mind that the cleat comes with the pedals, and not the shoes. There are a few different types of pedals with their own style cleat. Which of these styles is better is another subject for another paper. Most are great designs, but your familiarity with them is much more important than which one might have a slight advantage on the other. The cleat that comes with your pedals should bolt on to the bottom of whatever shoe you buy. If you buy both from a cycle shop (always recommended), they should make the whole shootin’ match work for you.

Self-Defense
If you are going to be out before the angry hordes are done looting and haven’t finished eating the majority of their own population, you can be a target for them. Much like settlers heading West, you’ll need a way of confronting the onslaught. Although you are going to want to give most of the carrying burden to the mechanical beast, some things might be better carried on your person. In fact, you might want to consider having to ditch the bike altogether if the scenario calls for it. Sure, this is a last resort, but so might have been bugging out in the first place. One thing I won’t be strapping on to my cycle is my primary firearm. This, a hydration system, and some other basic survival gear will be attached to me. I’ve worn plenty of MOLLE style vests in the past, and one that carries my sidearm cross draw in a retention holster is getting the call for this mission. Add some pouches for reloads and other must have stuff in just in case plan “C” is called into play. The rest can find room on the bike. Keep in mind that most panniers (a set of side bags) are designed to be removed quickly and have some sort of carrying handle. Loaded appropriately, and you could escape a situation quickly with quite a bit of your gear and leave behind the bike.

Other Gear
Two other parts of your body that touch the cycle the majority of the time are your hands and your derriere. Gloves we covered, so we’ll deal with your sit bones now. You can buy seats with as much padding as you’d like, then add a gel cover to it, and even find a seat post with a little shock absorber in it, but there’s no replacement for seat time. They have seats out there that look like the came off a tractor, but they’ll still more than likely hurt your butt at first. Seat time, measured in minutes, not miles, will make this pain bearable. I prefer to just log the seat time with the saddle that came with the bike. I pay good money (not too much money) for good bikes, and I find the seat that came on it plenty good for me. Cycling pants have a pad built in to them, and they are effective. Cycling pants are also shaped for being bent at the waist, making them comfortable for long rides, but not necessary option for your journey. You can wear them under loose fitting clothing so that you have your pocket knife right where you normally wear it. My tactical shorts usually ride over of mine.

Carrying Gear

Racks
This is the metal frame that attaches to your bikes frame, forks, or both. Racks are available in many different sizes and carrying styles. Some are clip-on, and some bolt on to the bike. I’m not a fan of the clip-on, and wouldn’t trust them in a heavy carry or rough terrain situation to lug what might be equipment and supplies that prolong my life. Some only carry loads on top, some on the sides, and some both. This is going to be a personal choice based on how much each person can carry safely for the distance and terrain they must cover. A general rule is that you’d rack and pack the rear of the bike first, then the front as needed. I have done both, and prefer to rack the front first. I don’t even notice moderate loads on the front of my commuter bike, and prefer the ride of the weight low and forward on my bike. I had to look for specific racks that work with disc brakes with my last purchase, as my newest cycle is equipped with them. Suspension laden cycles will have some restrictions on what racks they can accommodate. Again, a good cycle shop will be able to help you with selection, as well as proper installation.

Bags/Panniers
I’ll tell you right off the bat these things can get downright expensive. But like with most things, you get what you pay for. Since I’m guessing you’ll be (as I will) moving the heavier, if not all of, your B.O.B. to the bags, the light duty bags are not what you’re looking for. Water containers can be affixed directly to the racks if you wish. Practice riding with all the extra weight in its place before the need arises. The higher you make your center of gravity, the more unstable your ride will be. The other nugget I’ll share is that I prefer to buy the racks and bags from the same manufacturer. Not necessarily the same place, as shopping around can save you some dough. As mentioned before, many panniers slip on and lock to the racks for quick on and off convenience. A slight difference in design between the racks and the bags can lead to relying on duct tape (once again) to arrive with what you departed with. There are plenty of options of where you want to put bags, too. Handlebar, trunk, sides, seat, and frame bags are a few of the choices. I have a seat bag with an extra tube and the tools to change it, along with a cycling multi-tool. I prefer these items to be out separate so that I don’t have to look for it when needed. Changing a flat on a bike is very fast with some practice. Looking for the tools can take as long as fixing the flat if you have to dig for the stuff.

Trailers
Why not a bugout bag (B.O.B.) for your B.O.B.? Google up the B.O.B. (Beast of Burden, in this case) cycle trailer and I think you’ll be impressed. I’ve personally talked with people who have crossed the country pulling these things loaded down with gear, and they praise them. The only complaint is that they’re so popular that replacement parts can be hard to come by. Their single wheel design and slim profile make them very agile, able to scoot through small places (like between abandoned cars) and down narrow trails. This is the only individual product endorsement I’m including in this paper. I’m currently experimenting with a two wheeled trailer I picked up second hand. The primary use for the trailer will be our pet, which we’ve prepped for on all the levels in which we’ve prepped for ourselves. But I will also be testing this for the carrying of supplies. Water will be placed low and flat of the bottom of the cargo area. Other cargo will be placed around, and our small dog will be strapped in and sitting up in the middle. If you have a small child, this is also an option. I’m going to suggest, nay demand, the same safety equipment for the young passenger (helmet) and the same lights on the rear and far left and right of the trailer. A flag also accompanies most trailers for visibility.

Bike Maintenance and Repair

Professional Maintenance
After riding your bike the first hundred miles or so, it's time to take it back to the cycle shop for adjustments. I wouldn’t try this if you elected to buy from an individual or a big box store. New cables stretch and derailleurs will need tweaking. This is a service many bike shops offer for free. Unless you really want to learn a new skill (discussed later), I'd leave adjustments to the pros at the shop. They aren’t often necessary after initially tightening everything up. Just have it done occasionally and you’ll be ready when the ball drops.

Home Maintenance
Home maintenance is not too tedious. Cleaning and lubricating the chain is something you should do as necessary. A device to do this is about the only tool I have that is cycle specific. Keeping the bike clean, especially if you take it off road, is important to prevent unnecessary corrosion.

Repair
As for maintenance, I’d leave almost anything more complicating than flats to the cycle shop. One reason for this is the shop's mechanic can spot other things you might have missed that are askew with your scoot whilst repairing whatever it is you drug it in for. That is unless you’ve done your homework in cycle repair and equipped your tool arsenal with cycle specific implements. That being said, cycle repair could be a post catastrophic vocation that might be in demand. If you do choose to develop this skill set, it might be a bartering tool with others who now realize that a bike is their best transportation option. You might just find yourself fixing old bikes and trading/selling them, effectively starting your own “The Day After” bike shop as an income stream while saving time and money now by tuning your own.

Parts
Again, as long as you keep your bike in good working order, even if the cycle shop falls within the quarantine area, you should be able to get where you’re going on your well maintained bicycle. Tubes and the few tools you’ll need to change a road side flat are a must. A chain is a key component that can break without any real sign of abuse. An extra one might be a good idea along with a chain tool. Chain tools are small and fairly self-explanatory, and come as part of cycle-specific multi-tools. Stocking up on spare parts can be part of your plan if you’re considering the after world bike shop we previously mentioned.

Replacement
Some parts will need to be replaced, much like a car. Unlike a car that has a check engine light, sometimes bicycle problems don’t present symptoms as fast and can easily be missed. Having an inoperative bike can make your five mile bug out plan change drastically, and make a 50 mile bug out nearly impossible. Tire wear is more obvious, and you’ll be looking at them more than most other parts. Tubes, unless you really are lucky, will be replaced because of occasional flats before they wear out. The less obvious parts are the chain and coated brake cables.

Testing Your Gear
Just as with the waterproof matches, the dehydrated mac and cheese, and the portable water filter you bought for your B.O.B., every piece of prepper gear must be tested. Not only for operability, but for the confidence you need to carry this gear in to TEOTWAWKI. Your bike is no exception. Find the weak links, and squash them. You have to know that when this piece of equipment is supposed to get you home (or where you’re going to call home) that when you lean on the pedals, it’ll project itself forward just like it’s designed to do.

Cycling Lifestyle

Cycle shops
A good cycle shop will pay for itself in professional advice, proper fitting you to a bike, proper mounting accessories to your machine, and continual tuning. Picking a bike off the shelf of a super store is a recipe for disaster. I wouldn’t buy a bike from a box store as a present for a total stranger; much less trust my plans for the future to one. As with any good gun shop, you should feel comfortable asking questions about gear. If they don’t have the time to answer them, then Google up another bike store in your area until you find one that does. Make sure the owner and employees are cyclists. Their real life experiences with gear will be your first test, but not your last. It should be obvious that they’re cyclists, by the display of their own bikes in the shop. Ask them why they picked the gear they run, and then learn from their answers. They’ll also most likely be your first clue to where the good cycling clubs meet.

Cycling clubs
A lot of what we do as preppers is enhanced by like-minded people, and cycling is no exception. Getting into a cycling club can make your whole experience better. There’s seat time, and then there’s seat time combined with a little healthy competition and camaraderie. There are usually ability groups to match all levels, so you don’t have to be able to do 20 miles at 20 MPH on day one. But you will improve quicker than you think if you work at it.

If you really want to be prepared to bike thru the now third world country at the end of your driveway, take up a discipline called cyclocross. Cyclocross racing is a fairly new sport, but is catching on quickly as it brings the other types of racing together in a strange and fun environment. This type of event invites inclement weather, provides terrain that varies from road to mud, includes obstacles that will force you to carry your bike, and will abuse your body (as much as you want). It takes place on a closed course designed to tax your cycling skills as much as your endurance. The events can be more about finishing than time, and more about fun than trophies. You’ll better know what your body will put out, and what your gear will put up with in this kind of situation. Consider it the cycling equivalent to practical shooting.

Cycle commuting
If your plan includes cycling home from work, what better way to know how it'll go than riding to work? I know there are those commutes that just aren’t feasible, but don't count out 10 or 15 miles one way until you know what you're capable of. Commuting every day isn’t necessary. Maybe you save it for casual Friday. Your attention to detail is different on a bike, and this gives you the best view of what you'll experience when it's time to get home under adverse conditions. I’m not going into a tactical discussion here, but you’ll want to take note of choke points and back routes that will provide better cover or concealment. It also feels good to pass a few gas stations knowing you're not shelling out your hard earned money just to get to work. Plan your commutes by picking roads that are safe to ride on.  Skip roads that don't offer you the room you need to bail out. You are considered a vehicle, and you have some right of way, but don't put yourself in a situation where you're trying to explain this to a Paramedic in the back of an ambulance. Review the cycling laws in your state, but realize you might be the only one out there who has. You will be able to pack almost anything you’d normally haul to work in the panniers that will carry your survival gear. My smaller front bags are all I usually need, and I’m much more prepared to work after getting the blood moving on a quick ride to work.

Healthy Lifestyle
Whether a quadruple bypass is in your past, or in your future, you won’t be overly welcome in a post-apocalyptic community if the procedure is imminent. Starting a physical training routine with cycling is easy and fun for almost anyone. After the initial investment, training is basically free and is as convenient as taking an afternoon bike ride. If the great outdoors doesn’t present many opportunities for pleasant riding, many indoor options are available. Adding cycling to a routine is a great idea if your joints are getting a little older. Even if you’re in above average physical shape, cross training on a bike is a great idea to change up your workout. Find a local spin class and see how fast you get into shape for miles of road. As preppers, if physical conditioning isn’t part of a routine, we won’t last long in the times we’re prepping for.

Conclusion
I’m hoping that by now you’re looking at this topic from a broader prospective by looking at the benefits of adding cycling to your lifestyle both before and after TEOTWAWKI. Most of the things I’ve mentioned here shouldn’t surprise you, but I hope were worth reading one more time. A few things worth repeating: You get what you pay for. Seat time, measured in minutes, not miles, is everything. Test all your equipment and strategies as with all survival gear. A great cycle shop will prove indispensable the same way a good gun store is for that type of gear. Last, a cycling lifestyle will benefit in more ways than one. If you live ten years longer because your heart doesn’t have to work as hard, you might just get to shoot some zombies that you would have missed if you flat line before they get here. Happy cycling.

For most preppers, the action plan for a TEOTWAWKI scenario can be neatly categorized into basically one of two categories:  Bug in or Bug out.  Many people live in rural areas with sufficient security and provisions to be able to go to ground in the event of a disaster and ride out the storm.  “Sufficient” security might include bunkers, shooters, stockpiles of ammunition and weapons, spare parts, etc.  “Sufficient” provisions might be enough food to get the defense force and extended family of the principal through to the harvest, and enough seeds to ensure that the harvest will feed the crew indefinitely.  For many rural preppers, this scenario is an attainable goal.  For many urban preppers, however, this goal could never be realistically accomplished.  For that reason, we have to consider the possibility of bugging out.
There are some relatively standard considerations that almost anybody with a functional brain housing group would think through prior to bugging out.  Where am I going to get fuel?  What type of vehicle do I need?  How much food and water should I be taking with me?  Where am I going?  These are the basics of bugging out, and many of the conversations I see around the topic within the forums are geared towards that end.  These are great considerations, and they need to be considered as a bare minimum before attempting a bug out.  But, having experienced moving through combat zones for most of my adult life, I’d like to offer some other considerations that may not be so obvious.

As a caveat, these considerations are based upon several assumptions.  First, we are assuming that the power grid is down.  Second, we are assuming that the domestic security situation has degraded to the point that the police are no longer capable of providing safety and order (if they ever were capable to begin with).  Therefore, based upon those two assumptions, we have to further assume that traveling is a very dangerous activity.  People will be looking for targets of opportunity for any chance of finding food, water, or supplies. 
Here are some not-so-obvious considerations for bugging out based upon those assumptions:
What are my primary and alternate routes going to look like?  Yes, I said “alternate route.”  While it may be expedient to travel along paved roads to arrive at your bug out location, it may not be realistic.  There are several reasons why traveling along paved roads may not be the best idea you’ve ever had (remembering that we are assuming the security situation has degraded significantly):

1. Paved roads are highly visible.  Traveling along paved roads will draw attention, particularly in a scenario where practically all vehicular traffic has ceased because of fuel shortages and security concerns.  Doing so may expose you to bands of roving thieves and other not-so-friendly types. 
2. Bridges and overpasses make excellent choke points.  This means there is only one direction that you can travel, and it also means that you are in an extremely weak position to defend against a well-planned ambush.  It’s worth saying that if I weren’t a prepper who was working towards building supplies for my family, and the apocalyptic disaster happened upon me, I would probably use this method to feed my family.  A good ambush can be executed with a few well-placed individuals given the correct terrain.  An overpass or a bridge is the correct terrain.  It’s best just to avoid them.
3. Roads may be impassable.  Think about a scenario where traffic was so bad that sat in their cars for days and didn’t move.  Many would eventually just leave the cars in the middle of the road and head home.  Remember, we’re talking about an urban situation here.  You might not even be able to fit your bug out vehicle down those roads. 
4. Some people are capable of making shots at 500+ meters.  If you were driving down the side of a major highway, your enemies would be able to see you from far enough away that you would never hear the bullet that killed you.  There is relatively little cover and concealment on highways. (Obviously it is hard to drive through cover and concealment.) 

Since your primary route was probably a highway, I’d like to challenge you to come up with an alternate plan.  Let’s try it on foot this time, through the woods if possible, or at a bare minimum through back streets where ambushes would be less likely.  If you’re a smart cookie, as many of you are, the thought of reaching your bug out location on foot will immediately trigger several other considerations.  Here’s a small list of things to think about:

1. How will I navigate?  Since we are assuming the power grid is down, you probably won’t have a charge on your fancy little GPS system (if the satellites are still functional).  You’re going to need a good, old-fashioned map and compass to get where you’re going.  Do you know how use land navigation techniques?  You’d better start thinking about taking a class. 
2. How much food and water can you carry on your person?  This might necessitate changing your overall bug out location. 
3. How good is the cover and concealment along your alternate route?  Will it provide sufficient concealment for your needs, or do you need to augment your concealment through camouflage clothing?  What type of camouflage is most effective in your environment?
4. How much private property are you going to need to cross to arrive at your location?  Can you detour through a publicly owned National forest or other location where you are less likely to run into the security forces of other private citizens?  Remember, trespassing during a major disaster might get you shot repeatedly.

Where are my en-route safe havens?  “What the heck is a safe haven?” you may be asking.  Think Custer’s Last Stand.  Where are you going to go when the stuff hits the fan right in the middle of your trip to the bug out location? 
For obvious reasons, I recommend having as many safe havens built into your route as possible.  One safe haven for every mile or two would be ideal.  They need to be thoroughly discussed, known by all members of the travel party, and visibly marked on all of the maps (of which everyone should have a copy).  A good safe haven will offer limited entry access, ballistic protection, cover, and concealment.  Concrete buildings work great.  Bathrooms within concrete buildings work even better (there is only one door in, the doors can typically be locked from the inside, and they are usually made out of concrete).  In a pinch, a thick grove of trees can serve as a great safe haven as it offers the bare minimum of ballistic protection, cover, and concealment.  You get the idea.  Here are a few additional things to consider about safe havens:

1. Public buildings such as fire stations and park buildings are less likely to be defended by gun-toting militia members.  You might even run into a friendly fireman who has medical knowledge if you’re lucky, but most likely all government operations will have ceased by this point.  If you choose to utilize someone else’s property for a safe haven, you need to be prepared to fight for it.  This might not be the best idea, considering you might be getting chased at the time.  Even Hitler couldn’t win a two front war.  Think about it.
2. You need a running password.  In the event that your group is split up, everyone will have directions to rendezvous at the closest safe haven.  The first person to arrive will secure the location and wait.  If other members of the group are inbound in a hurry, they need to have some way to communicate that they are secure and not under duress.  I suggest sign/countersign.  It can be as simple as a number combination.  For instance, let’s say our number combination was seven.   I might challenge the runner with the number “Four.”  The runner would reply with a verbal “Three” and, since those two numbers add up to seven, I would know that all is well and not feel compelled to shoot my friend.
3. Ideally, a safe haven would not be too far off of your route.  It’s best if they lie along your route so that everyone knows where they are and how to get there.  The fewer the barriers between your route and your safe haven, the more quickly you can travel there when SHTF.  For instance, a river between your route and your safe haven could be disastrous. 

Do I need geocaches of critical supplies?  Since we’re now on foot, we obviously can’t carry as much as we would like.  We might need extra food, supplies, medical kits, ammunition, and more.  Since we can’t reasonably carry them with us, we have no choice to but to store them along our route.  I suggest planning en-route waypoints where critical resupply caches can be pre-positioned.  I would bury them if at all possible, on uncontested land (like somewhere deep within a national forest).  Mark them on your map, and then build the waypoints into your route.  If you get there and don’t need the supplies, leave them alone.  You never know when you might come back through. 

Obviously, you would need to develop some way of storing your cache in such a way that your supplies would not be ruined.  You have to keep it dry and serviceable despite weather and potentially having been buries for a long time.  Also, you need to think of a way to mark the cache so that it’s obvious to you but won’t cause cousin Earl from the local farm to dig up your supplies out of curiosity. 
As a general rule, I recommend one geo cache for each day of foot travel required to reach your bug out location.  Of course, many people will label me paranoid and crazy for even suggesting the practice, but then I guess I am a bit batty. 

I hope this article has helped someone think of a few extra considerations about bugging out that might save their life if TEOTWAWKI ever actually happens.  As always, any prepping is better than no prepping, so take it one step at a time and do it over time as you become able.  You’ll never regret being prepared. 

Growing up in a fairly large family with a work at home Mom, and a truck driver Dad, we learned to “make ends meet”.  One of our favorite dishes was “teedl-oh-bow” as Dad called it…wild rabbit (or squirrel) with biscuits and gravy.  Some even call it, ahem, “Stuff On A Shingle”.  Made many a supper meals for a family of six.  Mom even “barked” a squirrel once and it’s still a standing joke that Dad tells on her.  “Couldn’t find a bullet hole anywhere in the darn thing!”

Breakfast was nearly always oatmeal, cinnamon, and honey with mixed powdered milk over it and a piece of homemade bread toast.

Mom made us girls’ underwear from the pretty pink with blue flowers sacks that our flour was bought in.  Life was hard…but we survived.

After I married, life got even harder.  My first husband (who is now passed on) was a drinker and life was miserable.  Meals were hard to come by and sometimes me and my two kids found sanctuary at Mom’s house with something to eat.  When pregnant with my first child when I couldn’t work, beans and biscuits were our staple and wasn’t very good for someone carrying a baby…but we made it.  Raised some rabbits, raised some feeder pigs, plus worked a full time job at one time. Gardening was a must, and I didn’t even have the fancy hoes & shovels!  I picked weeds by hand and planted on dirt that I turned over with a kitchen spatula and depended on the skies for water. He became severely disabled at the age of 38 and I cared for him for 26 years before he passed on.  Good food, a lot of love, and knowing how to make ends meet, life was hard…but we survived.

One “unprepared” trip nearly cost us our lives and our baby boy … we were traveling across the mountains from a warm climate and forgot that it snows in the mountains and that a car needs anti-freeze.  We got stranded and the only shelter we could find was a post office and thank God the lobby doors were open.  We placed the baby over the floor vent (they probably don’t have these any more) and we laid down on each side of him to keep him warm.  The next morning we hauled water from a local creek to put in the radiator and managed to make it to the town we were going to…rolled down that mountain with smoke barreling out the back of that car like a freight train!  Didn’t dare stop for fear the engine would seize up.  Life was hard, but we survived.

I remember when we were raising rabbits that we had no heat other than a small wood stove (ran out of propane) so closed off all the rooms except the living room where the wood stove was and the kitchen.  We all slept on the floor of the living room to keep warm.  What a time for some friends to come calling!  They enjoyed our living room floor also and they guys slept in front of the wood stove and woke up to re-stoke.

I used a stock tank warmer to heat water in the bathtub and washed our clothes with a toilet stool plunger when I got the water hot enough.  Hung them on the clothesline to dry.  We pretty much ate tame rabbit, chicken & eggs from my 20+ Buff Orpington hens and a few roosters, and what I gleaned from the garden or bought really inexpensively at the grocery store.  Didn’t have a big box store anywhere near.  Life was hard, but we survived.

When we raised feeder pigs we lived a little better, but had our hands full when both of us got laid off from our jobs and had to depend on ourselves to put a roof over our heads and eat.  Sold off all the sows, boars and feeders and moved to town.  That was one winter my kids still remember because all they got for Christmas was a pair each of pajamas I made from scrap material from a discount store.  For Christmas dinner we ate gravy and biscuits and had a cake I made with only whipped cream dyed pink for frosting.  Life was hard, but we survived.

My then husband had a past, and that past took him to prison and I found myself alone with two small children and working in a factory to try to make ends meet.  I got behind on the payments on our house and they locked me out without anything that I owned.  No begging could persuade them to even let me have our personal things like clothes, pictures etc.  Some friends managed a trailer park and they helped me by letting me move in without a deposit and the first month's rent free.  Some church friends gave me money for utility deposits.  Me and the kids at off paper plates etc, with plastic spoons etc., and my friends loaned me a skillet and some pots.  Life was hard, but we survived.

After my late husband had his brain surgery and radiation, we moved back to our hometown to be closer to family.  I then had two teenagers that didn’t understand why their lives had been turned upside down. Once we had a power outage that lasted for 3 days, so we heated with a fireplace (one room) and cooked eggs and bacon on a KeroSun heater in the kitchen.  Life was hard, be we survived.

After his death, I met my gentleman and after a year of dating, we married a few years ago.  He was a “prepper” I guess for years, because his house was absolutely full of survival stuff.  It really made us feel bad when someone broke into it, rummaged through it like crazy, and took nothing but our two valued metal detectors.  Just turned everything upside down and made us a mess to clean up.

So being a prepper really isn’t a question for me, since I married one! (smile) Now we both are engaged in watching out for our own futures.   We put in a square foot gardening system very early with the “domes” to cover it in cool, frosty weather or hail storms…here it is late April and I’ve got lettuce in a jar in my frig, dehydrated onion tops in a spice jar, and a tiny little tomato that is a signal for the best to come!  Also have dehydrated pineapple slices in my fridge for my “sweet fix”, fresh cut up tomatoes in a vacuum sealed jar in the frig for salads and lots of other goodies.  I’ve gotten to be pretty good at dehydrating, food sealing, and looking for bargains at the grocery stores, discount stores and freight damaged stores.

I’m not excited about washing our clothes in our little counter-top hand crank washer but in a pinch it’ll do…and doesn’t take much water or soap!   I’m not excited about living life after shoot hits the fan, but…we’re doing what we can, with what we have, to prepare as best we can.  A big part of that is saving money at every turn. 

We’re not “scaredy cats” … we’re just two people who don’t like what we are seeing around us and know from experience how hard life can be if things go south in your life.  You don’t need a major event for life to wreak havoc for your family.  Sometimes all it takes is a bad decision for you to find yourself in dire straights or even deadly circumstances. 

I guess the moral of my story is simply that being “unprepared” is going to make it really hard on a lot of people for quite awhile…and they won’t have the support structure for them to survive that I had back 40+ years ago.  Even though I didn’t get welfare etc., I still had neighbors, family & church people to take my hand encourage me to keep on keeping on.  That’s why I’m saying that to prep or not to prep shouldn’t even be a question!  If you’ve ever been caught between the fence and the gatepost you know what a tight squeeze it is and how difficult it is to get loose. 

My current husband and I don’t smoke we don’t drink much other than an occasion beer, and we are very active for people in their 60’s.  We’re headed for a preppers expo this weekend and are really excited about learning even more than we’ve learned and are practicing.

Right now we’re loners, but have met another family not far from us, and we’re looking forward to getting to know better.  We’re being extremely careful about who we take into our confidence.

We’re looking forward to taking some gun training shortly so we don’t shoot our feet off. I haven’t hunted in more than 30 years.  I love fishing so that comes natural for me and my husband is going to make a great fisherman. 

We don’t plan to leave our “homestead” because we can’t afford to buy land. We’ll just do the best we can and if we fail we fail and we’ll meet you in those heavenly realms.  We love to travel and will do some of that when we can, and will keep our camper stocked with emergency supplies at all times.  We’ve purchased a lot of small propane bottles and are getting them filled.  Our travel trailer’s refrigerator runs on propane, our stove and furnace run on propane, and we have a nice outside grill if we need it.  We’ve practiced “dry camping” and found we could stay warm quite nicely with the furnace turned down really low, wearing well-insulated underwear, and hiding under a biscuit quilt that weights a ton. But I believe that it insulates better than any sleeping bag every could.  We carried jug water to “sailor bathe” as well as quick flushes in our toilet (we traveled winterized because the weather was cold and we didn’t want the plumbing to freeze up in our travel trailer. 

Never know when we might want to take a vacation for a few days (smile).

I’m not sure if this posting qualifies for anything “new” to do but hopefully will point some people forward to start making some sort of preparations...just in case something unexpected should come up. 

Jim:
This video shows why motorcycles are the answer to rural mobility. The 11 minute video is of a road that was washed out by storms, apparently in Japan. Much of it is overgrown and vanishing and the motorcyclist has to dodge quite a few downed limbs. - InyoKern

 

James,
I would like to thank Jeff H. for writing this article on the use of a motorcycle as a BOV as I was planning on doing the same in the near future.  He touched on quite a few very good topics.  But, from his submission, you can tell that he is a more experienced motorcyclist.  I would like to share my thoughts from a beginner/novice point of view.  The one difference of opinion that I have is concerning the bike’s size.  I definitely agree with the suggestion of getting a Dual Sport/Dual Purpose/Adventure Touring bike that is a 650 cc or larger when you need it to be your pack mule, or want to do cross country highway trips.  But, I don’t want the smaller Dual Sport bikes to be overlooked for a variety of reasons.  I just purchased a small Dual Sport bike a few months ago with the mindset of using it as a possible BOV, as well as a daily commuter.  The following takes you through the reasoning I took in purchasing a small Dual Sport Bike:
 
Cost
First and foremost, I have never ridden/owned a bike for the street (a dirt bike here and there), so I did not want to invest too much money on something that I may not like.  For a larger bike, you will be paying more money up front.  The bike I purchased is a 2009 Yamaha XT250.  This bike sells new for about $4,500 (other bikes in this range can be had for under $4,000).  A new 650 starts around $6,000, and a can go up past $10,000 for the larger displacement bikes.  Add the insurance difference on top of that (especially if you are a young male like myself), the riding gear, and that makes for a fairly large investment for something you may not like.  Other than the initial purchase, you will be feeding this thing money in the forms of fuel and maintenance.  The XT250 only has about a 2.5 Gal fuel tank, but I have gotten between 70-75 MPG (roughly a 150+ Mile Range).  Each bike is different, but the average “High” MPG from the larger bikes I have seen is between 40-65 MPG.  The maintenance on a single cylinder, air cooled engine is not going to be as time/money consuming as a liquid cooled larger engine (there are some air cooled units though).
 
Ergonomics
A small bike is generally a light bike.  The XT250’s weight is somewhere in the 250-290 lbs, while a Kawasaki KLR650 is in the 430 lb range, and they just go up from there.  It may not seem like a lot, but if you are truly in a G.O.O.D. situation and your bike gets stuck in the mud or tips over, what would you rather struggle with?  Seat height is another consideration.  Most Dual Sport bikes are “dirt bikes with lights”, so they can be awkward for some people (especially those who are inexperienced or vertically challenged).  I am about 6’ with a 32” inseam, and when stopped at a light, I can get both feet flat on the ground comfortably.  When shopping for a bike, I sat on a variety of different Dual Sport bikes, and the larger bikes (like the Kawasaki 650) I felt quite uncomfortable while stopped (I either had to have the bike tipped to the side, or be on my toes) as I could only get one foot on the ground.  This in addition to the 400+ pound curb weight didn’t make me feel too comfortable.  This may be a non-issue for an experienced rider, but as a novice, I felt like I was going to tip over and I didn’t even have any riding gear on, no backpack, no extra luggage, etc.  If this bike is still too tall for some of you; the Honda CRF230M is a strong candidate, and a much smaller bike (I felt, and looked, like I was riding a kids bike).
 
Simplicity
It doesn’t get much more simple than a single cylinder, air cooled, carbureted, dirt bike.  The only electronics the XT250 has are the lights/signals, speedometer, electronic ignition, and the handlebar controls.  The only thing that is absolutely needed out of those is the ignition control box.  Most larger bikes have fuel injection at a minimum, and quite a few newer ones have ABS, Traction Control, Fuel Injection, etc.  Also, as far as fluids go, most small displacement, single cylinder, air cooled bikes only have the engine oil and brake fluid.  If the bike is liquid cooled, then you have coolant on top of that (as well as everything that is needed for the liquid cooling: Radiator, Coolant, Water Pump, Thermostat, Hoses/Lines, Complex Cylinder Head, etc.).  Fuel injection is nice, but adds another computer, a bunch of sensors, fuel injectors, etc.  Carburetors have their own problems, but it is possible to MacGyver them in the field if need be. 
 
Conclusion
I know that I just touched on a few choice areas concerning a smaller displacement bike; the main goal of this writing is to keep your options open.  There is a good reason that the XT250 and XT225 (the XT250’s Predecessor) are used worldwide as transportation.  These bikes are hugely popular in Europe and Asia.  They are not without their faults, but a very good alternative if the thought of a larger bike isn’t too appealing in your situation.  These bikes aren’t made for cross country highway cruising, but they can handle occasional highway use; the winds really push you around though (since the bike is under 300#).  Being carbureted there is a short warm-up period vs. fuel injected which is ready to go right away.  Please do your research about what bike is best for you; there are a lot of good forums out there about these bikes with first hand experience.  Reading about the extreme reliability and durability of the XT250 was the deciding factor (some people have logged more than 30,000 miles on a 2008!).  I am very pleased with this bike and will recommend it to anyone who is on the fence, but you just need to learn the limitations of whatever you choose.  This bike is very forgiving and not overly intimidating for the first time rider, but it is also a blast for the more experienced rider – “It’s more fun to ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow”!  And, for the sake of safety, whichever bike you choose, make sure that you use All The Gear All The Time. 
 
Resources
Adventure Rider Forums
XT225/250 Forums
Thumper Talk Forums

Regards, - O.V.

Sir:
I had an epiphany a few years ago when I first viewed "Who Killed the Electric Car?" Since then, I've acquired several cars converted to electric and a Nissan Leaf. We bought our last tank of petroleum fuel in May of 2011.

Recently, I've been pondering how the electric cars might be used as a backup source of electric power. The battery packs of the conversions are readily accessible and can provide almost 100 kwh of energy. The Leaf's battery is not accessible at this time. Inverters that use the car's DC voltage (120-156v) as input are available but pretty rare. Ideally, I would like to find a source for a PV system where the car batteries could temporarily replace the PV panels in driving the inverter.

[JWR Adds: Nearly all home PV power systems have the inverter connected to a battery bank, rather than directly to PV panels. This eliminates the peaks and valleys of production caused by varying cloud cover.]

A higher cost solution would be to have two inverters, one for the PV panels and one for the car batteries. That would allow me to use electricity while the sun shines to charge cars as well as meet other demands and then supply energy from the car batteries when the sun isn't shining. Commonly available battery backed PV systems use 24-to-36 volt battery banks which are charged from PV panels [through a charge controller]. My car batteries need to be charged through charg[ing transform]ers that have 220 VAC input. That is, the charger's input must come through a transformer.

Our electric utility power is pretty reliable; I don't think I have seen it down more than two hours. ~1 hour outages only occur once every year or two. We might see outages of a few minutes several times a year.

The primary function of a PV system would be to pump power into the grid. That is how it would be used 99% (or 99.99%) of the time. At this time, PV is not cost effective in my region. With electric utility cost of 10 cents to 11 cents per kwh, it takes many decades to pay for a PV system. So, I would have to justify PV cost with emergency or grid-down functionality.

I've been speaking here of lithium iron phosphate batteries here. When treated well, they are far more cost effective, long-lived, and trouble-free than lead-acid batteries.

My most recent electric vehicle purchase was a Prodeco bicycle. A lithium battery "ebike", such as the Prodeco, is a great low maintenance people mover. Range is more than 10 miles without peddling. A great asset for when petroleum fuel is not available.

JWR Replies: Several of my consulting clients have Bad Boy Buggy electric ATVs. In addition to their quiet operation and utility as farm and ranch vehicles, they also provide a very portable battery bank. (They have eight large 6-volt deep cycle batteries.)

I have what I would consider three different Bug Out Vehicles (BOVs): a 4WD pickup, a 4WD SUV and a motorcycle.  The bike of coarse could be placed in the back of the pickup and unloaded somewhere down the road as needed thus greatly extending the range of either individually.  As far as BOVs are concerned there are many advantages to using a motorcycle.  One is good fuel mileage. Another is the ability to go around snarled traffic and other obstacles.  Disadvantages are lack of carrying capacity and the personal protection of being in a big heavy vehicle.

As far as what motorcycle you would use, I would recommend one of the types know as Dual Purpose.  These bike types have the ability to go both on and off road.  I’d start with at least a 650cc for a single rider and I use a 1200cc because I ride two with my wife.  The bigger bike isn’t as easy to ride in the hard stuff but it can carry a heavier load.  Just don’t get a bike so heavy that you can’t pick up when it falls over, because it will at some point.  If the bike doesn’t come with one buy and install one of the large capacity aftermarket fuel tanks.  The bike I have has a range of about 350 miles on one tank of fuel.  It would be very wise to get a bike with a quiet muffler.  No need in letting everyone know where you are.

I personally ride with all the protective gear, helmet, gloves, pants and boots.  Select these items with your intended purpose.  All of mine are waterproof which I consider a big plus if you get stranded.  Note that through experience not all items advertised as water proof actually meet those criteria.  I use military issue waterproof, steel toed boots instead of regular motorcycle type boots for when you have to abandon the bike and take to foot.  My jacket and pants have lots of waterproof pockets.  In those pockets I always carry a folding knife, multi-utility tool, survival butane lighter, paper matches, LED flash light, some toilet paper in a zip lock, cash and copies of all pertinent paperwork. In addition, a password protected jump drive with lots of personal information, phone numbers, policy numbers, bank info, some photos, passport and birth certificate copies and land titles. A Fisher Space Pen is another item that has proven invaluable to me.  It will write upside down, in freezing cold, in zero gravity and under water.  In the US where allowed I carry my pistol and a small quantity of ammo. (I intentionally try to avoid traveling in states that don’t allow concealed carry.  No use in giving them any of my business).  I carry two wallets.  My real one and one filled with a few dollars and some of those sample credit cards you get in the mail.  The fake one is a give away in case someone is demanding my wallet.

I always carry a good road atlas as well as some of the DeLorme Atlas of the areas I’m traveling in.  Another item I use regularly is a GPS.  In case of a G.O.O.D. situation it is recommended to have several escape routes planned.  This is where hopefully the GPS satellites are still functioning.  The GPS I have is made for motorcycles and is waterproof and vibration resistant.  In addition the model I have allows you to plot detailed routes in advance on your computer and then down load them into the unit.  Each route can be displayed in a different color.  In addition I have loaded a complete set of topographic maps in addition to the regular road maps.  Since having the Dual Purpose bike, this allows you to plot routes through some very remote areas on trails that won’t show up on normal road maps.  Of course you have these marked on your paper maps as well.  I’ve found these work well in the US but in Mexico, South America and Africa, maps both paper and GPS are sketchy at best unless you are on a main highway.

One of my main Bug Out Route concerns is bridges (river crossings).  These are easy choke points and a huge issue of safety.  Last year flooding of the Missouri River between Omaha and Kansas City forced the closing of a few bridges causing one to drive many miles out of the way to get across the Mighty Missouri.  Think what it will be like if the New Madrid fault knocks out bridges along the Mississippi or an earthquake takes out bridges on the west coast. In Patriots the characters ran into trouble at a check point on the road.  I see this as a real concern. Having the Dual Purpose bike with knobby tires can hopefully safely get you around these types of points. In many other countries I’ve traveled in, check points with armed guards are common place.  Only a couple of times did they try and shake us down for some cash.  This type of a situation is where having the fake wallet with just a couple of bucks in it comes in handy.

 When my wife and I travel on the bike we carry all our gear on the bike.  I consider this good training for a G.O.O.D scenario.  We trade off on camping and staying in hotels depending on where we are.  You quickly learn what is important and what is not as storage space is very limited.  We make use of saddle bags (panniers) and a dry bag.  In one pannier I carry tools and spare parts.  These need to be chosen based on your bike and your abilities.  One of my friends asked me what I thought was the most important tool to carry and I told him a pair of Vise Grips.  He asked why not a wine bottle opener and I replied that with the Vise Grips I could make a wine bottle opener. An LED headlamp with extra batteries is a very important item.  I like the ones that have high and low settings.  Some times you need just a little light and on high they seriously impair your night vision. On my first trip with my new LED head light, I pulled it out to begin setting up camp only to find it was completely dead.  I didn’t have spare batteries because I knew the new batteries would last for way more hours than I needed for several trips.  Well that was before the on/off push button accidentally got pressed in my pack.  Now I have spare batteries and remove one of them from the light before I pack it.  I also carry a small cheap (in case it gets confiscated) machete.  This is a common tool all over the world and I’ve not had it questioned at any checkpoints.

Other supplies I’ll say are very important are duct tape, silicone rescue tape, bailing wire, Quicksteel epoxy putty, Loctite 248 (this is like a chap stick and won’t leak), an assortment of bolts and nuts, rope, zip ties and tire repair items.  On a recent out of country trip the Quicksteel was used to repair a hole in a radiator, a broken turn signal and a broken lever mount.

Along with the basic tools including wrenches, screwdrivers, etc, I carry a small triangle file which can be used to repair damaged bolt threads as well as other uses.  Another handy item is a Stanley 15-333 8-Inch Folding Pocket Saw.  This saw is like a big folding knife that uses reciprocating saw blades.  It will store a couple of extra blades in the handle.  I carry a wood cutting blade, a metal cutting blade, and a carbide grit blade that can be used to cut hardened steel like a padlock.  We once used these to manufacture a needed part in a remote area in South America. One more item, although I’ve never needed to use it, is a few 3/32” E-6010 welding rods.  These can be used with three 12 volt car batteries and some jumper cables to make an emergency field repair.

I haven’t had hardly any issues with flat tires in car or bike in the US in years. After saying that, I was assigned to do some volunteer work in a Midwest City that was partially destroyed by a tornado.  One of the things that became readily apparent was there were lots of flat tires and more than one tire per car. In a TEOTWAWKI situation I would suspect flat tires to be a huge issue and highly likely.  Having a hand pump or compressor and tire repair tools and supplies will be most important.  On the bike I carry a small 12 VDC compressor, tire plugs, patches, spare tubes and tire irons just in case my tubeless tires can’t be repaired with a plug. 

Traveling in remote areas in foreign countries is a real eye opener and good practice for when things are not so good here.   One of my first remote bike trips was in Baja back in the 1980’s.  When we arrived in a small town there was a line at the gas station.  People had been there for 3 days waiting for the arrival of the next gas supply truck.  In South America one gas station was so remote they had to start a small generator to make electricity to operate the gas pumps while another station was just a rack with 2 liter pop bottles filled with gas. Traveling in these remote parts of the world you don’t pass up keeping your tank full because there may not be any fuel down the road, something that may happen here way too soon.  We had just left Santiago, Chile four days before the big quake in 2010.  Talk about being lucky and being glad I keep the survival items with me.  Here’s another tip, never fill up your vehicle if there is a fuel tanker at the station unloading fuel into the stations tanks.  This stirs up any crud that may be in the stations tank and you will pump it into your vehicles tank.

We have it too easy here in the US, or at least until TSHTF.  Here in the US we think getting patted down at the airport is a big infringement of our rights.  In a grocery store in Namibia all customers were patted down before leaving the store and there was a military guard with machine gun at the entrance. At several other locations, stores had little to sell and shelves were basically empty.  Leaving one town the next morning after a rain storm had all the ditches along the road filled with people bathing, washing clothes and filling their buckets from the puddles of rain water.  These are some of the things that are commonplace in many parts of the world but not yet here.  I know I’m preaching to the choir, but get and store the items you want while they are still available as they are luxury items in many places and in the future they may be scarce here also.  In Zambia I paid about 32,000 of their dollars ("Kwacha") for two beers.  The point being that cash, even the US dollar, may not be worth much in the future.

Traveling on normal roads in the US isn’t that hard on a vehicle, but in a TEOTWAWKI situation, off road or remote travel will introduce a lot of vibration.  This is hard on the vehicle, passengers and supplies.  Your vehicle whether a car, truck or motorcycle needs to be prepped.  It’s amazing how many things will shake loose.  I use Loctite on all the nuts a bolts.  I recommend Loctite 290, which is medium strength wicking formula that you can apply to already fastened bolts thus negating the need to undo every fastener.  Other things you don’t think of, are things like pills.  They will turn to dust if not properly packed and some medicines can be deadly if taken as a powder instead of a slowly absorbed pill. I’ve had holes rubbed through packed clothes that touched the inside walls of the panniers.  I’ve also learned to pour my water into recycled soda bottles.  The thinner walled water bottles don’t hold up well under vibration and even the heavier duty soda bottles need to be carefully packed.

I carry a pretty complete first aid kit that I packed into a foam lined camera case.  I won’t go into the contents as there are many good lists available. Because I’ve traveled in remote areas in several foreign countries I’ve had special shots and pills required for things like typhoid, hepatitis, tetanus and yellow fever.  If one studies the aftermath of areas where disasters have occurred and the diseases that become issues I’d recommend getting those shots now.  My doctor is aware of the type of travel I do so he has prescribed other medicines for “just in case”.  I just plainly asked him what he would take with him if he was going where I was going.  A couple of different antibiotics and some pain medications supplement the other over the counter medicines I normally pack.  One really important medicine is an anti-diarrheal.

Because bulk and weight are precious commodities on a motorcycle during normal travel, just a jar of peanut butter and crackers are used to supplement daily food stops.  In a SHTF situation I have another dry bag packed with a pack stove, mess kit, food items and additional water as well as a Katadyn water filter.  I carry the typical backpacking camping equipment for setting up camp.  A Gerber pack axe for its size and weight it is pretty useful tool as well as an additional defensive weapon.  Some OD green heavy thread and some booby trap string poppers make a good perimeter guard and can be attached to items that might walk away.  They won’t hurt any one and the loud report will probably scare away all but the most determined.

While a motorcycle isn’t the ideal BOV for everyone, it has some advantages and I consider it another backup to the back up.  Ideally in a group evacuation a motorcycle could be very useful as a scout vehicle and in less than total collapse situations they allow quick fuel efficient travel. My final tip for when TSHTF is to remember to pack a roll of toilet paper.

JWR's Comments: It cannot be overemphasized that choosing a motorcycle as your bug out vehicle will necessitate storing nearly all of your gear and storage food at your retreat. While not for everyone, a dual sport motorcycle can add tremendous versatility to your mobility.

The following observations are geared toward expats or even locals living in the Third World, although most would apply as well to residents of the First World.
Here in México, there have been countless horror stories, albeit, most of them not life threatening and essentially not classifiable as DEFCON 1 situations. Both expats and locals have been the victims of countless assaults. An acquaintance on the street was recently told simply to hand over his money and music player.

Another fellow, a philosopher, became inspired at midnight on a city street and only had his laptop to record his divine whispers. Not soon after, a guy hit him with a stick, grabbed his laptop and ran off toward a taxi in waiting. As the philosopher chased him, the taxi ended up backing into the victim and he rolled over the car, as dozens of bystanders did nothing. He suffered no serious injury.
Yet another instance was when a man was getting out of his vehicle, he was approached by a robber while accomplices waited in a vehicle nearby. The robber wanted everything including the man's watch. It had been a gift from dead grandparents and he told him you can have everything but you're not taking the watch, respect the dead. He got lucky keeping his life as the thief drove away in the man's vehicle. It was later found stripped to the bone for the spare parts black market. He had been complaining to his landlord to install a security fence for the driveway for exactly this reason, to no avail.

A final example was when an expat had recently been arrested by a mini-brigade of armed federal police pointing automatic weapons at him and a companion, for driving his own car. He had apparently tried for years to clear his car's name, as it had been stolen and recovered. It still registered as stolen in police databases. The police most likely knew it was his, but detained him for eighteen hours in a jail cell smeared with excrement and swarming with mosquitoes. They were surprised when his lawyer showed up, essentially catching them red handed. It seems they were either looking for a bribe or to take the car. It is important to note that this particular individual generally is one who is generally a bit careless hence his frequent run in with trouble.

My home had been broken into while on vacation. The three things the thief got away with? One was an old ounce of silver on my coffee table. Next, he spotted a pack of Marlboro’s I kept as a prank for friends. Needles to say, I found one of my exploded cigarettes on the floor. Finally, he took my desktop replacement laptop only to discover once he got home, that it had gone completely defunct about a week prior. He also had missed an ounce of gold I had hidden away (which has since been relocated).
After this relatively harmless wake-up call, I have begun to take certain vigilant measures.

Electronics
Although my laptop was defunct, it may have been possible to recover any personal data I may have had on the hard disks. I immediately changed all my passwords. What I am doing now is to encrypt my personal data via free software such as True Crypt. Because I also occasionally hear of daytime break-ins via friends of friends, I keep my computer secured via laptop locks. If I leave for extended periods, I move the laptop to a safe place outside of the home or take it with me. It is good to have a safe place such as work or the home of someone you can trust to care of any valuables. I have not owned a television for over half a decade. I also use an extension internet cable in the home and not wireless both to mitigate health issues from Electro Magnetic Pollution (EMP) and security risks associated with hackers. I do the same at work to lessen the effect of the Wi-Fi signal.

Precious Metals
One lesson I had learned was to find a better hiding place for any metals I may have around. I was lucky the thief had not found my ounce of gold, but this just goes to show that it was likely somebody who lacked experience this time around. The key is to think of smarter locations to place these valuables. An additional trick would be to leave easier to find bait so as to deter interest from the real stash. Also, one can diversify by holding both local and foreign allocated metals accounts. There are local banks where you can open silver accounts and you always have the option of safety deposit.

Personal Safety
The window bars which the thieves pried open on the front of the house were cheap. They were immediately replaced with thicker bars. I was also amazed that I had overlooked the simple placement of a wooden stick between the window and the window frame, so as to prevent someone from being able to push the window open in the case they are able to pry their way in (the same has been done to all windows).
I went out and bought motion detection lights for the front of the home. I also have purchased a few high voltage stun guns. One thing residents and citizens must do is investigate local laws. I have recently acquired my firearms license from my home state which, though not valid in a foreign country, may prove useful. I have spoken to military and it is legal for citizens or residents to purchase a firearm of a caliber lower than what is currently used by national forces. I plan to purchase a firearm for the home and a safe in which to store it. There is also an Israeli IDF soldier which runs a Krav Maga center with whom I have taken courses. I plan to make it a regular habit to attend his firearms seminars as well as self-defense courses. In most cases, you will not want to walk around with much money, so if you are confronted, you should most likely give up what cash is on you. Depending on your assessment of the situation, you may need to prepare for action if the thieves want more than just your cash and put you in a life or death situation.

Food
Each trip to the store means buying a few extra of each item in order to stock up. Extras are stored in bins and rotated. Seeing as the water from the tap is not fit to drink (and in some instances come out discolored), filters have been placed on the shower and faucet to provide clean water for cooking, brushing teeth (with non-fluoride toothpaste) and showering. I believe fluoride is not added to the water here, but the water is otherwise of horrid quality, containing all types of pollutants, metals and chemicals. Drinking water here normally is purchased filtered in twenty liter containers. I keep four or more at a time, which would last me a good while were anything to happen.  It really only rains here during the rainy season which lasts for three to four months, but a small rain collection unit would be possible to install.
I also keep a good stock of liquor, beer and wine, this not generally for personal consumption, but for guests as well as possible barter use. I now am planning to start growing food on the roof to supplement purchases and serve as a reserve. There are increased reports of the spread in common food of genetically engineered organisms so I make it a point to purchase “organic” (or what our grandparents used to call just “food”). I also use a regimen of about a dozen of the top supplements one can take, many of which have been suggested by “Over the Counter Natural Cures” and include astaxanthin, curcumin, vitamin K2, krill oil, spirulina, chlorophyll, mushrooms, CoQ10, milk thistle, melatonin, colloidal silver and alpha-lipoic acid. It is also important to purchase brands which at least do not contain conventional magnesium stearate, which is used in the manufacturing process. I also keep items such as potassium iodide, water purification pills and filters on hand, such as the Swiss made Katadyn pocket filter. A survival backpack that would last a week is also stashed and ready to go.

Vehicle
I keep my car well-maintained and take it in regularly for a tune-up so as not to be surprised by malfunctions at times or in places where you really wouldn’t want to be stuck. Unfortunately, I have seen people here, who are generally short-sighted, suffer continuously for lack of foresight. They would wait instead until the problem gets really bad before they deal with it. One person had a leaking radiator and because they continued to drive it for a few days, ended up having to spend almost $1000 on repairing a number of parts destroyed as a result of the malfunctioning radiator.
I keep essential items such as jumper cables, quick tire inflation can, medical kit, blankets and such stored in the trunk. I also keep a spare ten-liter canister ready to go in the case of any fuel disruption. The spare tire which is on the outside of the vehicle has been secured via a combination lock, as thieves have also been known to take those (happened recently to a friend). One neighbor had her car stereo stolen right out from under her nose in the middle of the night, as her vehicle was parked right below her bedroom window. The car only has a cassette player and there are no objects visible inside the car, so as not to give incentive to thieves. The car itself is an old used vehicle that doesn’t attract attention. It is wise to recall the instances of armed robbery here, which target high-value vehicles. All papers are kept in the glove compartment as well as printouts of my visa and relevant Mexican laws in case I get stopped by an unethical officer.

Passport
It is good to take out as much identification as possible. I not only have an American state driver’s license but a state ID, passport as well as card which would allow land travel through North America. I am also in the process of obtaining a local driver’s license. A second passport is a must. If the USSA intends to revoke my passport for whichever reason, I’ll have another to go on. I have heard from other expats, such as the Dollar Vigilante, that it is best to have two passports and to live in a third country of which you are not a citizen, in which case the government would have less power over you. Others have argued the contrary, where as a citizen, you have more tools for righting a wrong at your disposal.

These may seem like common sense preparations, but the funny thing is, literally 99.9% of the people I know haven’t got a clue. However, I have befriended a few like-minded individuals. One of them is a family man and we have discussed the collapse scenario. He has a well-fortified home with solar power. His benefit to having me join him in a time of crisis is adding protection for his family. A collapse scenario essentially is a numbers game and having an extra individual who is self-sufficient would not drain the person's own resources.

I have accumulated this strategy gradually over time and though it hasn’t been cheap, it also hasn’t broken the bank. As a result, I sleep a bit sounder knowing that if there are disruptions, I’ll have less to worry about.

Those of us who have considered the terrible option of having to leave our homes, our main domicile and primary place of normalcy and safety due to civil unrest or worse have had to ask the question of, "What do I take with me?". Eventually this question comes down taking that hike to .... wherever we feel is best, a better chance for survival environment. Why hike? Because any rational consideration of events that could occur all lead to fuel being no longer able to be obtained, roads blocked, normal travel impossible. Furthermore, the roads themselves may not be the best option for travel for reasons we can all imagine as to why. So we mentally move on to the 'Bug Out Bag', that pack, frame and its contents that we hope will see us through to a place of peace and security.

The novice, the out-of-shape, the inexperienced all begin by assuming that they can fill their pack with everything that they've read is necessary and still perform a prolonged panic hike of some 20+ miles per day. Day after day; perhaps, week after week. Possibly even night after night as well. Packed is food, water, first aid, sleeping and/or tent gear, campsite needs such as utensils, axe, knife, machete, saw, rope and all the rest of those things deemed absolutely necessary. And should violence and the need to protect oneself be an issue, firearm(s) and ammunition.

Water alone weighs 8.34 pounds per gallon. And the average needed daily amount for an adult is 8 - 8 ounce glasses of water per day. In other words, your daily water weight load is right at 4.2 pounds (a gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds). Having at least two days worth of water is not an unreasonable amount to expect to be carrying. The rest of the weight math is subject to what is in the pack, in your pockets, pouches, bags.....; in other words, the traveler who's trekked knows that weight carried is the one crucial factor in what is to be carried. The value of each item is scrutinized as to that factor and its worth, utility, need and multi-purpose potential.

Consider the weight of an AK-47, a set of web gear, and 120 rounds of ammunition loaded in magazines. Having actually weighed them, I've found that they come in at just over 20 pounds. I assume that most rifles of a similar purpose, with the same number of rounds, would be of a like measure. So, just water for two days and your rifle and a minimal amount of ammunition alone add up to almost 30 pounds. How's the old back feeling now? And let's not neglect the weight of clothing, shoes/boots, pocket and belt gear. Easily another five pounds if you're carrying a good knife, binoculars, compass, mini-first aid kit, some ready-to-eat packets of food, then...

Anyway it goes, anyway you go - if on foot, the load quickly adds up. Many an Old West wagon train movie illustrated a trail dotted with belongings discarded when times got hard, animal power to haul having sickened, weakened or died or other trail hazards and dilemmas arose. That 'sleeps 4 dome tent', or extra foam rubber ground pad sure seemed to be 'the thing' when you bought it; until that is, you had to haul it for 5 days on the run. That axe or spare shotgun, handgun or two and their respective ammunition needs also seemed perfect for a last-stand home defense; but prove just too much to carry too far.

As I prepared by both reading and studying, and then actually packing a Bug-Out bag (or two, or three....) I came to the conclusion that it would sure be nice to be three people with 21 year old strong backs. I began to consider just how to beat the weight and transportation problem. Seeing an old street woman pushing a shopping cart reminded me of the movie The Road and the hero/father's shopping cart. Supplies and the means to move them for him and his son were trudged along like that poor old lady that can be found downtown in any city. Like the old woman, there is plenty of room for all the necessities and even some 'luxuries' (everything is relative don't forget.) in a stolen grocery store cart. But, a shopping cart makes a poor vehicle for overland use. Whereas those carts are fine on pavement and sidewalks, the tires are too small and easily fouled, not easily maneuvered on broken ground. Not wanting to reinvent the wheel, I looked around for an off-the-shelf vehicle people already use for valuable cargo that is highly maneuverable, light-weight and adaptable to many terrain types.

What I found was the everyday 3 tube-tired baby stroller. The more 'upscale' model with two 12" diameter tires and a pivoting smaller tire. A load capacity between them of over 50 pounds for usage as a human baby conveyance. The stroller features I would recommend would be similar to the Baby Trend Expedition LX Travel System, Millennium with two 16" rear tires and a 12" front tire.

And this stroller, or such of a like type, can be found at virtually any thrift store for less than $20. I was fortunate and literally found one broken (the tray cracked, some of the upper pipes bent, and all the canvas shredded) being discarded by a neighbor. As in the picture above, there is a small triangular shelf above the front pivoting wheel (which you may discover can be locked in a straight 'run' position). As the stroller was damaged, I was able to salvage and saw off the rear axles, brake and wheels; as well as the front fork with the pivoting wheel and 'table' above it. This buggy originally sold for around $180.

As I looked at my parts with the eye to it becoming a 'Bug Out Buggy' and taking some quick measurements, I found that the pipe/tubing used was almost exactly the same outside diameter as high-pressure 1" PVC water pipe internal diameter. Literally a perfect fit. To the sketch board!!!

What I did was design around what I had on-hand, the former baby stroller gleaned from my neighbor's discards at the curb. The first consideration was to reverse the original wheel layout due to this vehicle being drawn rather than pushed. The second consideration being the main cargo area which consists of a large denim bag 18"W x 16"L x 12"D (which corresponded to the approximate size of 2 average day-backpacks. A table or platform area over and extending rearward from the axle of 18"W x 12" L and the pair of forks to extend the length and stride of the puller - in my project this was 40". The necessary 45 degree sloping run to the rearmost point consisting of the original front triangular table/foot platform added another 20". This sloped area was in part determined by my decision to 'fit' a previously-purchased OSHA First Aid kit in that location - the slope toward the pivot wheel platform - where it would be quickly accessible. The overall length depending on which pair of forks is being used is roughly 5'. What needs to be pictured is a vehicle with the main load structure being pulled by a pair of poles and terminating in a small triangular platform at the rear with an average height from the ground of a foot and a half. From the rear to the front the shape from a side view would be of a triangle over the pivoting wheel, an open-bottomed square with vertical supports connecting to the axle, another square that is the cargo area and finally the poles extending forward from the main cart body.

A couple of bags of PVC fittings - 'Tee's', Elbows, 45 degree elbows, caps, and some threaded adapters for the fork handles, some 15' of PVC pipe, PVC cleaner and cement, some eyebolts, heavy cable ties to affix the upright sections to the remaining buggy axle, a couple of linchpins, a piece of fiberglass reinforced plastic and for aesthetics - some spray paint - all told no more than $60 worth of hardware; and, I had my frame built and fitted in about four hours. A technical note - PVC is easily molded and bent by gentle and careful heating of the material with a heat gun. This allows for curves of any radius or direction you may wish for your project.

I own a sewing machine and had many a pair of cast-off and no longer wearable jeans that were easy to convert into denim cloth to make a hanging bag with button-on straps to sling it off the pipe rails. I can see others may use zippers, velcro, snap fasteners or the like for the same purpose. I prefer buttons over those as replacement can be done with many available materials; whereas, the latter-mentioned all take specialized tools or are not obtainable in the field. A button only takes a pierced disk or toggle and a needle and thread to replace.  It all depends on the desired configuration of the cart, the builder's preference and what and how much is to be carried. I do recommend planning on being able to remove any bag for cleaning purposes as assuredly will become necessary. In addition, having a large canvas bag for future uses independent of the cart cannot hurt. Just think of opportunistic harvest needs. A large bushel-sized bag would come in handy.

The power I intend to use is my own motive power and strength to pull this cart like a rickshaw style (with pipe insulation handgrips). But.... a major alternative 'power source' that I've made are two additional forks/tongues that can be interchanged for the angled handles in order that my dog can pull it when I desire him to. As the owner of a large German Shepherd weighing some 130 pounds, it was a case of "why not use all my resources?" Initial experimentation with him in the traces/harness I rigged and on leash went well; though, I do counsel anyone considering this option to engage in a multiple exposure and training sessions with your mutt. Some dogs may not readily take to becoming harnessed 'sled' dogs.  And thus, that is why there is a second/spare set of forks with threaded adapters/couplers on the ends of the forks to mate to the forward ends of the cart bag frame. I took the liberty of color coding the left side with red tape to insure that the threaded adapter fittings for the two fork pulling options were always installed on the correct sides and aligned with the linchpin holes drilled through the threaded adapters to prevent any accidental fork rotation while in use. The linchpins are secured to prevent loss by two nylon lines from the pull-ring to conveniently placed eyebolts just behind the threaded adapter fittings. Additional eye-bolts are installed on the dog-forks and in the center of the upper 'U' pipe forward of the bag compartment for dog harness attachment (or to be used as ready-to-hand lash down points).

Remember, if you will, that I reversed the original buggy design direction of travel, with the smaller pivoting wheel being to the rear. This allows for far greater maneuverability and affords the larger tires to surmount obstructions easier than would a forward-most small tire. In addition, the formerly front triangular shelf is perfect to sit on with feet on the axle while the dog pulls; or, for a 5 gallon water carboy, ammunition separation and availability - whatever purpose you deem this platform is to be used for. If you consider this cart is designed to be pulled not pushed, it will make better sense.

I load tested and found that the cart as built easily handles over 140 pounds of weight - with an estimated maximum of 180 pounds - while pulling easily and smoothly. As a precaution, I emptied the air out of the tubes and replaced same in all three tires with 'Fix-A-Flat' for some puncture hazard resilience.

The load I used on the initial build, pre-painting or threaded adapters for the alternate forks, was, as stated above, of two average-sized backpacks, one medium duffel and an ammo pouch containing over 400 rounds of 7.62 x 39 caliber rifle ammunition on the rear 'deck'. It is easy to picture how at least 2 long-guns and more cargo could be placed on top of the hanging bag and following fiberglass-reinforced plastic table behind it. The packs and pouch were loaded with over 90 pounds of gear and supplies and the cart pulled easily and 'lightly'. I tested the now-rear shelf with a filled 5 gallon carboy of water - some 42 pounds - lashed to 3 eye-bolts installed for that purpose and hardly noticed the extra effort needed to pull the cart.

It is an enjoyable project, a quick week-end affair to accomplish, inexpensive and as designed above; or however you may wish to configure it for your own needs, a thing that it easy to do. The big plus is a man on the move can still carry a pack, a rifle and pockets goods on his person while pulling this; effectively quadrupling the normal load if need be. Many things too bulky or weighty to be conveyed by one's own upright strength - such as 5 gallons of water on the rear shelf - can now be moved with ease. I consider it to be sort of an automatic cache if the need to be free of longer-term needs must be abandoned due to hazardous circumstances arising. All that would be needed is to find cover for the cart and move off already packed out with a short term needs regular pack arrangement and/or defensive weapon.

I've not completely explained many of the design considerations. Some important ones are why no bag compartment is behind the axle - in order to lessen the accumulation of mud, dirt and debris on the canvas. Another thought is to make the cart as well-balanced see-saw-fashion fore and aft of the axle. The height of the fork handles to pull - either human or canine - is crucial for comfort and ease of use. Good heavy-duty cement rather than the weaker strength compounds is a must. The entire cart should be able to be picked up with little strain when unloaded/empty with one hand. The ability to remove the forks allows for ease of transport in a pickup truck, van or on a car roof, giving the owner the ability to take it in a 'bug-out' situation on and then off a fueled (or just ran out of gas) vehicle and move away from a hazard or traffic situation readily by paring down its overall length initially. The poles/forks too can be used for temporary tent poles and other campsite uses. The overall length of the cart cargo platform including the bag area should be approximately that of an adult body - around 3-4' - with the knees bent at the aft over-axle platform so that in an emergency you have a wheeled gurney at hand.

There are many other design parameters that could be included ranging from sewn-on pouches on the sides of the bag, rain cover fabrication, mud-flaps and more. It is all a matter of what the builder wishes to include. But as I began this essay with - weight, weight, weight and the consideration of that is what is crucial.

James:
I just read the SurvivalBlog post "Letter Re: Military Surplus G.O.O.D. Vehicles."

Here's a web site for any of your readers in or near West Virginia looking for a Humvee, Deuce and a half or 5 ton trucks: Clark Trucks.

With My Regards, - Aaron K.

 

Sir,
Reference military surplus vehicles, I would like to recommend that for those seriously interested in something other than a "deuce" that there are several places here in the US where former Swiss or Austrian "Pinzguaers" are available.  These are very versatile, high ground clearance, 4x4 or 6x6 trucks.  They have 4-cylinder, air cooled, carbureted, 89 hp, motors and will travel almost anywhere.  Maintenance is easy and common items such as 24 volt light bulbs, spark plugs, and oil filters are readily available at most auto parts stores.
 
Now, the bad news, there are only a handful of sources in the US for major parts and some of them are fairly expensive.  They are also fairly distinctive and draw quite a bit of attention for a truck that is only slightly larger than a Chevrolet Astro van.  Their range is only about 200 to 250 miles on a 20 gallon fill up, so jerry cans would be in order for a long bug out trip.
 
The 4x4, 710M model, will carry a full ton, or is capable of moving 10 persons and gear at speeds up to about 60 mph on paved roads.  The 6x6, 712M, will carry 14 persons and gear or a full ton and a half of cargo.  Both styles have 45 degree approach and departure angles and are rated for a 45 degree side slope.  I will take their word for that simply because I run out of nerve at about 10 to 15 degrees of side slope.
 
Finding a Steyr, Daimler, Puch (the consortium that designed and built these trucks) Pinzgauer is fairly easy by just searching with the term "Pinzgauer."  There are a few diesel powered Pinzgauers finding their way into the country.  Caution would be advised on these as registration of them for use on streets and highways could be tricky due to EPA regulations.  The truck, in most cases, has to be 30 years old to meet the standards.  In my case the two I have beat the daylights out of the Polaris Ranger as a utility vehicle.  They were both cheaper than the new Ranger models and can be titled, license, insured and driven on the highways, whereas a UTV in most cases has to be trailered.
 
Another potential source for former military vehicles, mostly of American manufacturer, is Idaho Motor Pool.  I know nothing about them other than their internet reputation is pretty good.
 
I love SurvivalBlog and I am very grateful for your books and the information you provide.
 
Regards, - Signcutter

Jim:
I loved your book How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It. I was surprised when I read the G.O.O.D. vehicles section that you didn't really mention old military vehicles as G.O.O.D vehicles. I was curious of your stand on this as I'm sure other readers are too. I recently purchased a 1-1/4 ton 1968 Kaiser Jeep M715 that had been converted to run on both gas and propane. It really isn't a very complicated vehicle to work on the wiring is very basic. I believe this is a good retreat rig as the maintenance is very basic the only con is that it has a low gear ratio so top speed is maybe 55 mph. No special tools are required on it just a good socket and ratchet set, timing strobe light, a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter and a set of screwdrivers and some brake line wrenches. Those are a all you need to work on al but the most advanced repairs.

I live in Arkansas so seeing people drive old Army rigs is commonplace. So would you recommend old military rigs and why or why not? Also would you recommend a specific kind? - J.R.O.

JWR Replies: Yes, so long as you live in area where they won't stick out like a proverbial sore thumb, military surplus vehicles can be quite practical for retreats. As previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog, here in the U.S., two of the most practical models are M35A2 2-/12 ton trucks with multifuel engines for hauling fairly large loads, and diesel CUCV pickup trucks for hauling light loads. One good source for CUCVs is Classic Mustangs in Denver, Colorado. More obscure and hard-to-find military vehicles can often be found at Dave Uhrig's site.

Jim:
In How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It, you missed mentioning one of the great uses of "bypassed areas" -- that of an en route cache.  There is no question but that it would be plain stupid for any family to wait to leave the big cities and urban areas until the very last moment when TSHTF, urban riots have broken out, and the freeways have become one big parking lot full of shooting and looting.  But many families will want to hang on in the cities as long as possible because of employment, family commitments for the care of elderly relatives, and other reasons.  When they do leave, it would be much safer for them to quickly exit along the back roads with only the clothes on their backs and half a tank of gas than to take the time to stuff their vehicle full of survival goods and become a visible target of great interest to looters along the road. 
 
Their first destination would be their own unimproved wooded one acre lot in one of the "bypassed areas" within an hour's drive of their urban home, with only a small, used, stripped down camping trailer on it and maybe an outhouse.  It is not going to draw much interest from potential looters.  By stripped down camping trailer, I mean an old one with the wheels removed and sitting on concrete block.  Its propane tanks and battery would also be removed.  To an outsider looking in the window, it would look very Spartan with no supplies or anything useful.  There would be no source of water there.  So what good is such a property?
 
Somewhere on the property would be a 20 foot long metal CONEX shipping container completely buried under about a foot of soil (deep enough so you can cover it with plants and its location will not be obvious) and a specially constructed entrance to the back doors of the shipping container that is also buried under the same foot of soil and plants.  It might take an hour of shovel work to dig out the entrance to your buried shipping container.  This is your supply cache with the important supplies and gasoline that you will need to safely travel the rest of the way to your permanent retreat.  It also contains the wheels to your trailer along with the propane tanks, battery, generator, and plenty of gasoline for your vehicles and what ever else.  It contains food and water, and pre-positioned supplies that you would need for safe travel or to remain at that site for a few days or a little longer.
 
The advantage of such an arrangement is that there is little that is visible from the road to tempt thieves.  And if they loot an old, empty travel trailer - so what?  Your real cache is buried underground and is well out of sight.  It is also out of danger from forest fires that would likely burn your trailer to the ground.  In such a forest fire, you will not have lost anything that is not easily and inexpensively replaceable.   The best part of all -- such an acre of worthless ground that is covered with brush, stumps, and scrub trees should not cost very much.  The general impression that people will have of it will be, "This guy is really hurting if that is his retreat."
 
The disadvantage is that [in northern states] it is only likely to be accessible about nine months out of the year with snow closing the roads during the other three months.
 
Hope this helps and adds something to your work - Paul O.

JWR Replies: As has been discussed several times in the blog, CONEXes cannot be buried without concrete reinforcement. This is because they are designed to take loads only on their corners. With the weight of rain-soaked soil, their walls and roofs collapse. So, when all is said and done, it is actually more expensive to buy, reinforce, and bury a CONEX than it is to build a dedicated reinforced concrete shelter. From a practical standpoint, I'd instead recommend burying a much less expensive poly water tank with a man hatch cover just below the ground surface.

As for the camping trailer: Why have anything above ground at an unattended property? That just attracts junkies and assorted lowlifes. Storing a wall tent inside an underground cache makes more sense, to me. If you need to store a trailer, then make it a simple box trailer, with the wheels and lug nuts buried nearby. The advantage is that an open box trailer won't prove to be an attractive place for drug addicts to use as a recreational cabin.

A few years ago, I found myself widowed after 36 years of marriage.   Seven months later, I buried my mother after she lost a long battle with colon cancer.   I was only 59 but my kids were gone and suddenly I had no family nearby and no one dependent on me.  It took a few months to mentally adjust, but during that time I began thinking about re-engaging my life and setting new goals....sort of a bucket list if you will.  Two of the things that were on that list were traveling around our country and retiring early if possible. 

Retire, I did, and my travels have, and will in the future, include visiting the great national parks and wilderness areas of our country.  Also, I am an unabashed fan of Virginia Tech football and enjoy tailgating at the game.   My parents had a truck camper when I was a young man and it occurred to me that a truck camper would allow me greater access and enjoyment for both traveling and football games.  My parents' camper and truck were gone decades ago, so I began doing my research on the various makes and models and what they offered.  I quickly found out that the capabilities and amenities modern truck campers offered were light years beyond what I had experienced using my parents' camper.

I have slept in the open and under shelter halves as a Marine. I’ve also tent camped with my son's scout troop, put up big old wall tents, cooked over a campfire, and used a cat hole.  I decided that roughing it is no longer my thing.  I wanted to go for more comfort and I decided that I was going to get a camper with a lot of features and buy used to save money.  I also needed a truck to transport it.  To make a long story short I bought a 2003 Lance 1130 camper and a 2004 F-350 dual rear wheel ("dually") pickup to haul it.   Admittedly even for truck campers, this is a big combination but it had all the features I wanted and by buying used I saved thousands of dollars getting both truck and camper combined for around $36,000.    Before you sigh and close this article because of the cost, let me assure you that you can buy much less expensive truck campers that can be carried on standard pickups which I bet many of you already have.    A quick search on one RV web site while writing this article, yielded 12 campers in the Mid-Atlantic region for sale under $10,000 and at least one was an 11' foot 2011 model.  

Good fortune smiled on me and quite unexpectedly, I was recently joined in life by a beautiful lady who had been a neighbor for years.  We were acquaintances but didn’t really know each other, but our respective kids swam together on swim team, went to the same schools and we had much in common that drew us together.  We were married last year and one of our delights has been using the truck camper for camping and tailgating.  My wife has told me that this camper is definitely her idea of “camping,” and our tailgating friends are amazed at the amenities we have right in the parking lot. 

We have both been very concerned about our nation's political situation, the danger to our economy and non-conventional threats to our society.  We recently began serious prepping activity and are on our way to self-sufficiency should the Schumer hit.   We live in a rural area and hope to stay in place if things aren’t too bad, but if we have to, we will bug out and we have what I think is darn near the perfect bug out vehicle.  Let me tell you why I think so and why I highly recommend a truck camper.

First, here are some basics for those of you unfamiliar with truck campers.  Far from the “camper” shells you see on pickups, a truck camper has at a minimum the following features:  A bed, refrigerator, stove, kitchen sink, lighting, heat, and almost all have at least a portable “potty.”   The camper sits in the bed of your pickup and has a connection to your truck’s electrical system.   The interior is high enough that a six footer can walk easily down the aisle of the camper.  A bed rests in the “cab over” section of the camper over the roof of your truck.  Most manufacturers’ model numbers reflect the length of the floor of the camper not counting the cab over section.  In our case, we have a Lance 1130 which translates to approximately 11 feet of cabin length.  Our camper requires a long bed truck but dozens of models are available for short bed trucks.  I think all will require you to remove the tailgate.  Minimal modifications need to be made to most trucks in the form of tie down brackets and electrical connection and can be installed by an RV dealer for just a few hundred dollars or for much less if you do it yourself.

Most truck campers have many more features than listed above and you’d be hard pressed to find a camper with just those.  I’ll use mine as an example and while it has physical capacities larger than most due to its exceptional size, almost all campers have the same features just on a smaller scale.

We have a queen size bed over the cab.  This is pretty standard on truck campers these days.  Our dinette which seats 4, converts to a bed and over that is a fold down bunk for a child giving us the ability to sleep 4.  Most truck campers will sleep 3 or 4 fairly easily.

We have a 40 gallon fresh water tank, 25 gallon gray water tank, and 24 gallon black water tank.  The gray and black tanks have a sewer hose for dumping into an RV park’s sewer, or emptying into their dump station or in a pinch, somewhere else  We have an electric water pump or can hook up to a standard outdoor water faucet with our fresh water hose. We have A/C and a furnace.  The furnace runs on propane  The A/C runs on regular 110 volt power but we also have a built in Generac generator.  When “shore” power is available such as at a campground, we use it, connecting via a 30 AMP power cable.   While we seldom run the A/C when not connected to external power, we can if we want to by using the generator.

Our galley has a 3 burner propane stove, an oven, a microwave and a double sink with counter space.  We have a 6 cubic foot “3 way” refrigerator with freezer that runs on A/C, propane or battery power.  It automatically switches between power sources based on settings you can manage.  We have a hot water heater that can run on propane or electricity.  We have cabinet space for utensils, pots and pans, food and cleaning supplies.  This doesn’t count the multiple cabinets for clothes, supplies and gear.

Our bathroom (head) has a sink with hot and cold water, a medicine cabinet, a shower stall, powered exhaust vent, and a flush toilet.
We have a flat screen television, with crank up external antenna, AM/FM radio and a Blu Ray player.  Other amenities include a back door awning and a large awning on the side. Our windows are generous and all except the front window have screens to allow us plenty of fresh air. We have a powerful ceiling exhaust fan. Outside are power outlets and a gas nipple for connecting an outdoor grill.  There is also an external, stow able shower head with hot and cold water.

Despite all of these amenities, a truck camper is designed to be able to ‘boondock” for weeks at a time with no external connections.  Our camper has two deep cycle Interstate marine batteries.  It has two onboard 30 lb. propane tanks.  All of the lighting is 12 volt as are the fans.  There is an inverter to run electrical devices from the batteries and we have easily run the lights, television, Blu-Ray player and other things while barely drawing down the batteries.  With widely available solar panel re-chargers, and conservative usage of power, you can have power indefinitely.  But the campers also have an interface to your vehicle’s electrical system, so by running the truck engine for a while you can charge up your onboard batteries.  Also, our onboard Generac can charge the batteries but in a bug out scenario, you’d probably want to avoid that as well as running the truck engine.

Speaking of bug out scenarios, we could load our camper with supplies and be on our way very quickly.  As I mentioned, we have an F-350.  The truck has huge diesel fuel tanks giving us almost 400 miles range.  We have the crew cab which gives us a large cargo area when the rear seats are folded down.  Our truck has 4WD and is a dually.  Even with the camper mounted, we can still park it in a standard parking space.  Now since our rig is pretty long compared to most, we’re not as maneuverable as some but we can still go almost anywhere we want.   We could easily drive into the woods, pull it into a secluded spot, throw some camo netting over it and disappear.  If you could find a spot near fresh water and be able to expose your solar panel, you could stay out for a long time.  Obviously, there are other considerations, such as OPSEC, how much food you brought along or that you cached, and sanitary disposal but there are ways to deal with that and go beyond this article. 

A situation that would be most favorable would be owning your own remote piece of land, with water, pre-cached supplies, and good hunting potential.   You wouldn’t have to build a shelter or cabin, just drive your camper there.  Obviously, a truck camper doesn’t take the place of a cabin or bunker, but it also gives you flexibility and much more comfort than living out in the open.  I strongly encourage you to check truck campers out as a family emergency vehicle (FEV) and as something you can enjoy right now while things are “normal.”   Many of the prepper’s purchases are something we buy and put away.  This is one that you can enjoy all year long, yet can save your life if things get bad.

JWR Adds: Because of space and weight constraints, virtually all vehicular retreat approaches are doomed to failure in anything longer than just a short term disaster. That is, unless you heed Wade's advice. I agree with him that you will need to cache a lot of food, fuel, tools, and other bulky items such as rolls of fencing wire at your retreat property. Without a pre-positioned deep larder, you will become just another statistic. Mobility is great, but inevitably it is just a means to get yourself to a locale with supplies stored in depth and where you have fertile soil and plentiful water to grow crops.

Thank you for creating your wonderful SurvivalBlog site; it is a much-needed voice of sanity in a world of foolishness and denial. We value your site for the shared experiences of your contributors and the working knowledge that many have volunteered. I hope we can also contribute in some small way, but maybe from a different perspective.

My wife and I have been full time live aboard boaters in the northeast for the last 20 years or so. The core tenants of prepping have always been near and dear to us - not just because we have a special interest in prepping, but because long distance sailors and other self-reliant mariners use the same pepper concepts, not just when the SHTF, but as constant concerns of every day life when underway.  Provisioning, access to potable water, communication, navigation, maintenance, weather, sanitation, protection from the elements, first aid, safety and physical security; expertise in all these areas is needed in order to remain self-reliant and maybe even to stay alive when cruising. The names and implementation for preppers and sailors may be different but the basic concepts are the same. For instance a preppers "G.O.O.D." bag is our "Ditch" (boat sinking) bag. Maybe we can share insights between our different prepper/cruiser cultures and learn from each other's experiences.

I'd also like to present a case that if you live near the coast in a congested area, then a well-found sailing vessel can represent an excellent bug out location, and in many ways it may be the only viable option for continued survival if some truly horrific event occurs. But first, let me give you an overview of where we live and some of the problems a typical prepper might face in our area.

The northeast where we reside is very crowded, with much of the population concentrated along the shore. In many ways it is a fragile place. Power is generated locally, but fuel and food have to be shipped in continually and the process can only be interrupted for a short amount of time. As far as I can tell none of the states in the region have any sort of rational, long-term emergency measures in place. Most of the people here, just like everywhere else it seems, do not have even a bare minimum of emergency supplies on hand. If some condition or event were to upset our delicate supply chain, electrical grid or communication system for more than even a few days, the resulting cascading "systems failures" would quickly convert our affluent and well ordered society into a chaotic, lawless place. Many of the cities here have rotting cores filled with thoughtless, brutal people, and these would be the first to take advantage of the situation. Concern would quickly give way to panic and even the typical law abiding citizen might be given to reckless and even irrational acts. The order of events in a severe emergency are not hard to imagine if you consider that most people would be living off of body fat and pond water within a few short weeks.

The fact of the matter is that there are just to many people here. You might be ready to bug out, but to where? The roads are often a congested mess even on a good day, let alone in an evacuation emergency (as an example, the Long Island Express is often affectionately referred to as "the longest parking lot in the world"). Unless you are in the northern parts of these north eastern states, such as upstate New York, your only other option would seem to be to bug in, not always the best option while the world is disintegrating around you.

So what could cause such a catastrophe? Many things, and readers of this blog probably already have a pretty good idea what they are. For me, a coronal mass ejection (CME) or a deliberate electromagnetic pulse (EMP) generated by a high altitude nuclear device heads the list of my nightmares; these are followed closely by a deliberate ground level nuclear event or a Category 5 hurricane hitting the coast (at high tide). Once the power goes out many of the nuclear reactors in the area, deprived of adequate cooling, would meltdown in the same fashion as Japans Fukushima Daiichi plant. This would poison vast areas of the most densely populated parts of our country. Deadly flu, economic collapse, social upheaval, loss of imported fuel - all seem tame in comparison, but experience has taught many of us never to underestimate the power of "chaos and cascading failures". Especially in power, communication and supply systems created to work as cheaply as possible but with little thought to resilience or redundancy.

Because of these challenges along any crowded coastline. I'd like to suggest that your readers consider a small sailing vessel as your bug out retreat. The greatest advantage is that you could get away in short order and with a minimum of sophisticated technology. The power of the wind can take you anywhere in the world. There are many cheap, capable smaller sailboats out there, but just as one example I'd like to present the sturdy little Pearson Triton. At 28 feet this is just about the smallest boat one can use for long distance cruising. Designed by the venerable Carl Alberg this well built little boat is fully capable of safely crossing an ocean (if not quickly or comfortably), and is small enough that it can even be rowed under dead calm conditions. 750 Tritons were made in the 1950s and 1960s and most are still around. In almost every way these "classic plastic" boats are much better than their contemporary counterparts and much less expensive too. In good condition with useable sails and a fairly new diesel engine the Triton can be had for $8,000 to $10,000 USD and sometimes much less. Maintenance, dockage and haul outs might be another $4,000 a year. This isn't chump change, but it is still much less than a land-based bug out retreat in this area.

So when and how do we use your little bug out boat? Well that depends. If the power is out and is not going to come back on as with a CME or EMP then you would have little choice other than to leave, and the sooner the better. If emergency conditions are less severe, then your choice of whether to leave or not may not be so simple. You can always stay on the boat until things settle out, one way or another. You don't have to leave on an impulse, after all the open ocean can be an uncompromising taskmaster especially to the novice sailor. But at least you can leave when you want. Just as a side issue, a small sailboat like the Triton can be great fun to sail even if the world is not coming to an end.

So how would you prepare your little Triton for TEOTWAWKI and how might the order of events unfold? Lets run through a possible scenario. Imagine that one morning there was an impossibly bright spark in the southern sky and now nothing works. The power is off and the car wont run, even the radio is dead. The neighbors are all scratching their heads in confusion, where you understand what just happened along with the grave implications. You and your family fill your backpacks with essentials and then peddle your bicycles like crazy heading to the marina where the boat is kept. Once there you set your priorities and prepare to bug out.

First and foremost, the greatest overriding concern for all small cruisers (and preppers in general) is availability of potable water. Your little ship only carries 20 gallons of fresh water in an internal tank, supplies for a few days at best. On deck you lash an other half a dozen or so 5 gallon plastic jerry jugs, this is the tried and true method used by all small boat cruisers. Still not enough water, every drop counts. The wife sends the kids up to raid the trash for any other bottles, cans or buckets, anything that can hold water including ziploc bags and trash bags. You'll sterilize everything later with bleach once you are underway. Finally fill the cockpit, bilge and galley sinks; even fill your old sea boots with fresh water. Better a pair of wet feet than a dry mouth. The scuppers (deck drains) have already been rigged to collect rainwater, but you can't count on a rainy day to save your life.

At the beginning of the season you squirreled away dozens of cans of food in the bilge, but what exactly is down there now is a bit of a mystery, as the water and high humidity have freed up and dissolved away all the labels. No matter, the calories are still in there, even if you are not really sure what is what. You'll have some interesting meals ahead, and not just because of the anonymous cans in the hold. There is almost always something to eat in and around the sea, especially in the biologically rich northern waters. Most people only think in terms of game fish like striped bass or bluefish, but for every large fish there are a hundred smaller ones. We are also surrounded by dozens of types of "unconventional" protein. Crabs, shrimp, clams, snails and other mollusks, as well as sea grass and seaweeds are all edible - palatability is another matter. Just remember, hunger is the best sauce. How about Minnows with rice and seaweed anyone?  A seining net and simple hook and line fishing gear are cheap and essential.

Food and water - check, now for security. Instead of buying something like a single AR-15 you spent your gun budget on three AR-7s. This is the survival rife that you first read about as a kid. The barrel, receiver and even two 8 round magazines all stow within the stock, and most of the parts are even Teflon coated, a great plus on a small boat in a salty ocean. When you first picked them up you thought that maybe the gun dealer was playing a trick on you. Each gun weights only two and a half pounds and is a little over 19 inches long when the parts are stored in the stock. The AR-7 looks a bit like a toy but it will kill just like any other .22 rimfire gun. Chambered in .22 LR, you can hold a thousand boxed up rounds in the palm of your hand and those thousand rounds are easy to stow in a watertight container. (Now just where did you put that spare ammo?). The philosophy here is that three small semi auto weapons firing at close range will trump a single weapon of higher caliber. Longer-range weapons would also be much less of an advantage while pitching and rolling about in the open ocean. Frankly, anything beats fending off desperate pirates with a boat hook and harsh language. [JWR Adds: Another advantage of the AR-7 is that it is is one of the few guns that float if it is dropped in the water.]

Suitable clothing and foul weather gear are already stored aboard and the meds kit is ready including a good selection of fish antibiotics and a minor surgery kit. You are ready to go (a relative term), but go where? Your first thought is to head toward Bermuda. At 700 nautical miles away it is relatively close. But on second thought, perhaps not. An EMP powerful enough to take out the eastern seaboard would probably get Bermuda as well. Maybe you could head north. The Canadian Maritimes are far enough away that the power is probably still on. There is only one problem, if the nuclear reactors along the eastern seaboard begin to meltdown, then he prevailing winds will carry this nuclear material to the northeast. You would be sailing into clouds of radioactive smoke and dust. The wife consults the Pilot chart for the north Atlantic and places her finger on a tiny dot that is two thirds of the to the way to Europe. "The Azores? That's over 2,000 nautical miles away!" You give her a sick grin. The GPS is properly packed away in a shielded box, but if it didn't make it you'll have to find your way using the sextant (and luck). Many of the GPS satellites have probably been destroyed in any case. "How is your celestial [navigation]?" you ask. "About as good as yours," the wife replies, with the same sick grin. Celestial navigation is not one of our competencies and we don't even have a working timepiece in any case. "Well, you always wanted to have a sailing adventure" the wife continues.  True, but this isn't exactly want you had in mind.

Let me preface this information by saying it only applies to those preppers that live in states where it is legal to possess and carry a handgun in the car.

I live in a state where it is not a problem or an issue to carry a handgun in a vehicle, it has been that way for many years. Our state considers it part of the "castle doctrine", it is legal for a citizen to defend his castle and his vehicle is considered to be part of that castle.

For years I have carried a variety of weapons, semi's and revolvers, in my different vehicles. Some in the glove box, some in the console, some under the seat, and some in the pouch behind the passenger seat. My main concern has always been the security of the vehicle when left un-occupied. I have to admit that I have lost two different weapons when I had a vehicle break in.

Because of the possibility of vehicle theft [or theft of contest from a vehicle], I have never wanted to buy a high dollar handgun and have a $500 or even a $1,000 handgun lost. Well, I have found the best of both worlds. A handgun that is a big .40 caliber semi-automatic that works super and costs less than $200.

A good friend that is a retired law enforcement officer introduced me to the Hi-Point SW-40B. Frankly I had never even heard of Hi-Point and the handgun was a very pleasant surprise. The semi-auto is black polymer and has an adjustable rear sight. It shoots like a dream and consumes all types of ammo with no problems. It is also backed by Hi-Points lifetime warranty on repairs if they should become necessary. The great thing is that this pistol is readily available from dealers around the country for $159-to-$189. Check this out.

The only down side I have found about this pistol is it is a real heavy weight. It weighs almost three pounds before it is loaded. It is not what I would want to have as an everyday carry weapon, but that is not the issue here. We are talking about a great car carry gun for not much money. By the way, an almost identical model is also available in .45 ACP if that is your caliber of choice. - Gringo Dude

We are a mobile culture. The vast majority of us begin our day by getting into a vehicle and driving to work.  Some of us, once we reach work drive again to reach work details. We are accustomed to driving everywhere.  We drive to the store for groceries and supplies; we drive to schools, work, doctors, etc.

When the SHTF most of us who live in a densely populated area are not going to be entirely comfortable just hunkering down where we live and hoping for the best.  Those that choose to bug-in in a suburban or urban environment are pretty much going to be sitting ducks for the lawlessness that will follow. 

You may have a decent supply of firearms and ammunition, fortified defenses and large stocks of provisions, but in reality most every house is susceptible to penetration and destruction. Fire is a prime example.  Are your defenses such that if your house was burning down around you that you could bug-in and survive? If you haven’t considered that then you should.  You may have a concrete basement with hidden entrances and exits but it’s sitting beneath a large pile of flammables.  It’s going to get mighty hot and hard to breathe. If you’re in an apartment that’s not on the ground floor, you’re in even more danger.

Of course you may take out a few marauders before they realize you aren’t going to be easy pickings, but word will quickly spread that you are there and you aren’t letting anyone in nor giving away your provisions without a fight.  Believe me, most of the people doing the raiding are not going to benevolent and generous and just walk away and leave you alone because you’re a hard target.  The mind set will be if they can’t have it you can’t either. Fire will be one of the first thoughts to enter into the equation if they can’t breach your defenses. Heavy equipment can also make your defenses inappropriate in one fell swoop as well.  Don’t worry, if you manage to discourage them the first go round, they’ll be back.

If you’re location cannot withstand burning down around you or being structurally destroyed then you still need a mobile plan.

If you’re on foot with nothing more than a bugout bag, defensive weapons and some skill sets then that’s the most basic level and you’re really going to be on your own.  Your survivability level is somewhere around zero to ten percent. There is no way to predict or control the situation as you are subject to all manner of environmental conditions and threats whether they be natural, hostile parties or geographical.  The best you can do is to have several predetermined and reconnoitered routes that you have physically traversed and are in good enough physical condition to complete and then hope for the best and pray a lot. And stay concealed as much as possible.

Those who seek to take what is yours and/or do you harm are more than likely going to have much better intel on the immediate urban/suburban environment of the streets than you are.  That’s their domain and they will quickly occupy the most defensible positions to their best advantage.  They also have much more experience than you do on living with little or nothing in despicable conditions.  This will be their turf.  They already occupy it, you don’t.  Sure, there are plenty of dumb criminals out there but once packs are formed they will have intelligent, crafty leaders who have the knowledge and experience to direct them intelligently.

I advise that everyone should have a mobile preparation plan in mind regardless of whether you need to bugout to reach a retreat or safer location, or you’re already at your retreat and well stocked for long-term survival.  Any fortification or retreat can be breached or laid to siege.

Urban and suburban dwellers should keep a well maintained vehicle(s) with enough fuel and reserves to reach where you plan to go without having to refuel from an outside source.  Supplies should be pre-packed and able to be loaded in less than fifteen minutes or less if not kept in the vehicles or trailers ahead of time. 

Optimally you should always be gathering intel and maintain a constant situational awareness of ongoing events. The best case scenario is to know when to go before the SHTF. Not after.

In any emergency you are going to have multiple situations to consider that can change at any given moment.  Having mobile preps covered ahead of time will allow you to concentrate on the situation at hand and not be distracted wondering whether or not you remembered to bring everything or what route(s) to take.

For now, it’s best to map out several routes, drive them under various weather conditions and take note of areas that could prove difficult under varying conditions.

I’m not going to cover the myriad of vehicles that could or should be considered.  Much like firearms and various calibers, when it comes down to it something is better than nothing and have what you can afford.  Just don’t go overboard if you can’t afford it.  In reality a vehicle merely gets you from point A to point B.

Cargo trailers, camp trailers and/or motor homes enhance your departure time by being able to be pre-loaded and inventoried ahead of time and simply hooked up and/or driven away almost immediately. They can also provide longer term amenities if you can’t reach your destination as soon as you might have thought.

Convoys will have better chances of success in hostile territory than lone vehicles.  If you have a group you should work out the logistics of what vehicles take what positions, what frequencies and/or  channels you will utilize for unsecure communications.  This might include code words, hand-signals, phrases and uncommon languages that could be used in-transit in the case that others may be listening in.

Convoys should have patrol vehicles, point vehicles, defensive vehicles and pre-planned defensive strategies in the case of attack. Even in war zones it is rare that every vehicle in a convoy is taken out or the entire convoy captured or killed.  A convoy gives you a fight or flight response to any hostile or emergency situation.  It goes without saying that tools and implements to clear roads of obstacles and vehicles should definitely be considered.

All vehicles should be armed and members practice various positions of defense while driving.  It’s not as easy as one might imagine to take aim and fire while moving at a high rate of speed, let alone while performing evasive maneuvers. Take the time to consider what positions in a vehicle are best for firing from and with what types of weapons.

Nearly every apocalyptic, post-apocalyptic , zombie and sci-fi movie that has even come close to portraying such a scenario rarely does not contain some sort of armed convoy scenario and for good reason.  Without mobility we increase the capability for failure tenfold in any given situation.  Flight is limited. If our retreats become no longer safe we’re going to have to bugout.  If we need to reach one before we can be safe, mobile preparations will need to be considered. Plain and simple.
Another point I wish to make with this article is for those of you who don’t have the resources for a retreat and don’t have any safe houses away from the chaos that you can bugout to then considering a short-term mobile solution may be for you.

It’s much easier to gather a group of people with a similar mindset in a similar situation than it is to find an existing retreat to take you in if you have little in the way of resources or developed skills. Let’s face it, there are plenty of “preppers” out there that just can’t afford much of what they would need to feel totally secure.  A group can alleviate some of the worry about how you’re going to make it.

You can form a group and pool your resources to purchase a low-cost undeveloped parcel of land in a remote location where you can rendezvous and figure it out from there or at least cache supplies.  Over time you can make developments to improve the land for long term habitation. Members could rotate spending time there to make improvements for the benefit of all.  It would also allow those without much in the way of expendable resources to coordinate with others in their mobile group so that each member can focus on stocking equipment and supplies that would benefit the entire group instead of everyone trying to gather everything alone. It’s better than being on your own and having no destination at all. 

If you can’t allocate the resources for a parcel of land your group can all agree on a remote location to rendezvous as far away from the immediate chaos as possible.  That will at least give you some breathing space.  I doubt there will be many forest rangers or BLM out ticketing your group for overstaying at a campground or camping in the desert or mountains in an area undesignated for camping or long-term stays.

I do not advise a constant state of mobility.  It just won’t work.  Fuel is going to be hard to come by and you cannot maintain long-term stability or defensibility in a mobile situation. For long-term survival you’re going to have to settle in somewhere.  You cannot exist on stored supplies alone. 

Having a good mobile prep plan can at the least get you through the most critical event horizon.  Of course in some situations it’s not going to be the best alternative or the most practical.  I offer it here as an alternative mindset to be included as part of your preparation plan, not the ultimate solution.

But for those who don’t have as many resources and even for those that do, mobile preparations should be taken seriously and added to any preparedness plan. If you live in a highly populated urban or suburban area you might want to consider storing your main vehicles/trailers/etc., on the outskirts of town and develop an alternate but efficient means to reach them in a SHTF scenario.

There are many factors to consider that are unique to where you live.  I just want to advise that your mobile preps consider more than just jumping in your vehicle with a 72 hour bag and heading for the hills. One should take into account the worst case scenario in your present plans and plan accordingly.

It’s easy to envision how it will all come down and how you respond, but just like on the battlefield things usually take on the age old adage of SNAFU. (Situation Normal All Fouled Up).
Here I shall outline my own present mobile preps in very general terms for the sake of OPSEC .  Our retreat is approximately 400 miles from our present location although we shall be living there by late Spring so our own plan will change at that time to consider the change of circumstance and location.

We currently have 5 alternate routes planned to reach the retreat location which does lie within the American Redoubt area. Three of the routes allow us to reach the location in just over 6 hours under optimal driving conditions.  Most of the routes we will utilize do not require us to pass through any towns over a 10,000 population.  Two of the routes pass through less than 500 until we are within an hour and then only one town with a population of 3000. 

We personally utilize two vehicles and two trailers. One of the vehicles is a 33 foot customized self-contained motor home, the other an older American made SUV.  The motor home is kept with the tanks full with a 600 to 900 mile range depending on conditions and terrain.  The SUV is never below ¾ of a tank and the stocked trailer holds two 5 gallon jerry cans on each side for a total of 40 gallons of fuel for the SUV. This is adequate for both vehicles to reach the retreat location without external sources.  Both vehicles are under a strict maintenance program to keep all systems viable and working.

Both vehicles obviously have trailer hitches with the required towing capacity for their respective trailers. One large cargo trailer is always stocked, having custom built shelving containing a 1 year supply of foodstuffs, 1 month supply of drinking water, a working stocked freezer, propane cooktop, 12 volt lights, an inverter and batteries recharged by solar as well as kerosene lamps, propane heater and more.  There is enough room left over that it could be slept in if needed. This trailer is somewhat heavy and is meant to be pulled by the motor home but we have tested it on a 120 mile drive towing it with the SUV with no problems though a bit slow going over steep grades.

The second, smaller cargo trailer is left empty to accommodate tools and equipment that can be loaded in under 15 minutes.  All tools and equipment that are not in immediate use are stored in marked containers and fit in the empty trailer.  We have test loaded it as well and can have it fully loaded with two of us loading in under fifteen minutes if need be.

The motor home is stocked with approximately 1 to 2 months of foodstuffs, a 90 gallon water tank, internal plumbing, 12V DC solar power, 110 with inverter or shore power and propane heat , water and stove.  We have also added a small wood cook stove with oven for redundancy and alternate fuel sources.  Communications consist of CB, Police scanner and two-way hand held radios.  Internet capability for mobile travel is via cellular modem though we do not depend upon it but have it as long as it there and a cell signal can be received. We keep a small inventory of spare parts deemed most likely to fail and a complete set of tools and equipment in the basement storage areas.

The SUV contains two 48 hour Bugout bags as well as a 72 hour vehicle kit at all times.  It has ample supplies and equipment for winter and summer use and can be slept in comfortably. We have ample weapons for defense and tactical use and train regularly. We have a few other individuals that would convoy in two other vehicles if need be but currently we have no long term plans to include them in the retreat locale as they are working on their own solution.

If needed we could abandon the motor home and continue on in the SUV and continue down to making it on foot in the worse case scenario.  This is our basic mobile plan.  Once we reach the retreat things change.

My new Nissan 4WD Frontier is pretty well equipped…and conspicuous. Maybe it’s the 102” steel CB radio antenna whip that tipped the balance. Yeah, they make smaller ones, but for my first foray into CB, I wanted the best money could buy…my money anyway. And it turns out that you spend more money to go smaller and the reduction in size can challenge the optimized reception with respect to the wavelength of the transmission signal(i.e. in many respects, bigger is still better). Were it not for that tall waving wand in the sky, perhaps the addition of the two sets of off-road lights, contractor tool boxes, bull bar, roof rack, and headache rack might have gone largely unnoticed in my suburban enclave. I was actually able to conceal the Public Address (PA) speakers (front and rear) fairly well. In my first drafting of this article, I actually left them off of the rundown. They were hidden even from my recollection. I do have a winch mount on order, but my plan is to have that dismountable and store the body of the winch in one of the toolboxes to protect it from the elements or potential theft. Although a GPS is no replacement for superbly honed map skills, I once read that in the wake of tornados or hurricanes when all street signs have been obliterated, it might be helpful to have some knowledgeable, turn-by-turn guidance. So I got one. There is a map of my immediate area in the rear seat pouch, and I know I should ideally have more than one map. “Haphazard”, remember? It took the loss of cell phone service following the east coast earthquake of 2011 to encourage me to enlist other modes of communication. CB radio seemed to be the next most ubiquitous which did not require any special licensing. Each of these acquisitions was spurred out of some sudden realization of a latent ‘need’ which was more likely just a ‘want’ which I could justify in the name of preparedness. I will admit, the excitement of opening and installing the contents of each of those parcels over the past few months made what is often portrayed as a doom and gloom exercise into almost a hobby of sorts which I immensely enjoyed.

The concept of preparedness started for me just two years ago. While shopping in Barnes & Noble, I happened upon a copy of The Zombie Survival Guide by Max Brooks, a satirical, how-to guide for surviving the onslaught of the undead. It was a fairly entertaining read, made all the more enjoyable by the infusion of very practical considerations applicable to nearly any challenging situation. One piece of advice was to review existing survival and wilderness guides for general guidelines, as tactics specifically employed for the “killing” (if you can kill something that is neither living or dead is possible) or otherwise dispatching zombies would be the primary focus of this text. So I did. I picked up two more guides. Fast forward to last year’s "Snowmageddon" which was the ill-fated evening where a fast-moving and productive snowstorm enveloped the DC metro area just at the start of rush hour and gridlocked and stranded thousands of motorists. I was one of them in my trusty 4-door Honda Civic. On uncongested, snow covered roads, it responded rather nimbly in snow and I generally could count on enough room to maneuver should I get into trouble. But generally the idea was to always be a body in perpetual motion. This was simply not possible in stop-and-go traffic. I got stuck and with no provisions in the vehicle, was fortunate to get a quick push in the direction of a nearby shopping mall where hundreds of us wayward travelers had managed to scamper to and take up refuge in the food court.  I had always wanted a 4 wheel drive truck. This encounter solidified the need in my mind.

Fast forward again to this region’s significant earthquake in 2011. I was not the least bit fazed by the occurrence in and of itself. It felt like little more than the weekly trash collection in my office building where occasionally a new driver to the route roughly handles the receptacles down in the loading dock. What was more troubling is what I encountered when trying to contact my wife just to ensure that the house had survived in tact. Phones were down. I’m not sure about land lines. We do not maintain one at home. Cell phones were most assuredly down for about 10-15 minutes. Again, not an excessive lapse of service, but one which few of us anticipated. The cell phone is regarded by many of us “Sheeple” (I was one and still exhibit tendencies at times)  to borrow the phrase, as the be all end all of emergency preparedness and communication. We are lulled into complacency by believing that any service or need can be fulfilled by a timely call placed to the appropriate party or entity. So now, without any sort of coherent plan, I’ve got all these words of wisdom swirling in my head. And both the Civic, and the old beater truck (rear wheel drive only) are at just about the end of their useful service lives. I traded them in and began the journey of outfitting a new vehicle.

But first there was my own personality and ego which had to be overcome. I maintain a significant physical regimen and regard myself as possessing impressive intellect and ingenuity. So my approach to life was “Well, I’ll know how to respond if something happens and will have the physical conditioning to do whatever is necessary to endure any hardship.” And maybe  that can be justified for a single person, but now I’m a husband and will likely someday be a father. To pass on that legacy and demonstrate such dereliction of duty as the head of a household is entirely inexcusable.

So for me, the transitions have been from “nonchalant”, to “haphazard”, to hopefully “better planning” and orchestrations with my preparations than I exhibited on this fitout. My truck now is kind of funny (though survival is no laughing matter). I’ve made it into a kind of Swiss Army Knife of bug out vehicles (BOVs), including a chain saw in the back. Quick story on that is that my job told us prior to Hurricane Irene making landfall that we might be requested to come to the aid of some of our project sites. I work in construction management. I wasn’t worried about high winds (I’ve made this girl pretty heavy now) or high water; it was fallen trees that concerned me. I couldn’t very well drive over them, not without larger profile tires and a lift kit perhaps. But that will never be practical for me because I still make my living as a part time office-worker and office garages in the city do not afford that sort of roof clearance. Sigh. Getting back to my point, I figured I might need to cut any fallen trees up to clear a roadway. My ego liked that. “I could be a rush hour hero...” And now I could justify buying a chain saw. There has to be a practical limit at some point to curtail this form of vehicular hoarding that I was engaged in. As I went along, I did try to balance some of the tradeoffs in terms of weight, fuel economy, etc. I’ve also experienced some missed opportunities in terms of the locations of where some components I’ve mounted which were more cosmetic than utilitarian now occupying the ideal mounting locations of more practical additions. I’m now retroactively trying to improve my fabrication skills with a welder (another survival inspired purchase not specifically outfitted for the truck…yet)  to accommodate a front trailer hitch and the bull bar which is presently installed that I cannot exactly afford to simply throw away. Practicality will ultimately win out, but it is a tough pill to swallow at this juncture.

I’ve started focusing on some of the less sexy aspects of preparedness as they pertain to travel as well. It seems everyone focuses on food and ammo. One article on this blog dealt with the very real issue of water. I was embarrassed that I had three separate vessels for transporting and storing fuel and not even a Dasani water bottle in the truck. Terrible. That’s been corrected. I’ve got a 7 gallon jug now from Bass Pro Shops. I wanted bigger, but I reminded myself of the consideration that  each gallon is 8 pounds of cargo, and with a 50 lb pack and weapons, I’m personally well over100 lbs of carrying weight if I have to go over land. So I’m continuing to read and research in an effort to smooth out the ebbs and flows in my preparedness tide. I’d likely sacrifice the large portable in a fight-or-flight scenario in favor of the Nalgenes I’ve tucked into BOBs for my wife and me. I’ll have to become familiar with water bodies along our escape route such that we can employ the portable water purifier on the go. This brings me to my next point.

What I’m ultimately coming to terms with is that this vehicle (as sexy as it looks), with all that I’ve invested into it, is meant to be a means to an end. I’m merely supposed to travel from one destination to another. It should not represent my entire lifeline or the culmination of my preparation efforts. Should it become disabled, or no other passable routes exist, my very survival might dictate that I abandon it after salvaging whatever resources I can reasonably transport on foot. My efforts of late are actually aimed at reducing my dependence on the vehicle altogether. Communication was the biggest hurdle, as I set up the truck with the PA amplifier and CB radio as my communication hub. It was easy enough in response to this realization to acquire a hand-held CB. I still need to test out the comparative range. (Anecdotally, I read that it is less range, but some range is better than no means of remote communication).  The biggest practical drawback for me is that it is not a diesel engine. All of the posts tout diesel for its versatility of fuel options and that one could even endeavor to generate their own bio-diesel. Yes, I missed that on the dealer invoice. On the same token though, articles that advocate that our ideal bug out vehicle should be a pre-1980 Diesel Ford 4x4 miss the mark (in my humble opinion) in the sense that when the time to bug out comes, we might very well be at a dinner party, or commuting to work or in some other respect sharply jolted out of our daily lives and need to respond. And if this truly is the end of civilization for the foreseeable future, it’s not like I’ll have a regular need to travel down the road to the shopping mall even if I had extensive fuel stores. I’d likely be looking to power a generator or would have hopefully succeeded in setting up my BOL to be self-sustaining off of the grid. I just need this rig to get me there on whatever fuel I have on hand when it’s time to roll out.

Many of the articles talk about how the signs and the advance warning will be apparent leading up to a societal meltdown or destabilization. I may need to depart from the masses in the prep community in that regard. A rather insightful article I found here actually warns against being the lone, bunker dweller who alienates all friends and loved ones with eerie doomsday proclamations. That type of prepper is not beneficial to the cause according to the author. Their stance is that our mindset and practical considerations, when conveyed by a competent person who is an authority or subject matter expert may serve to encourage other loved ones to make their own personal preparations in advance of what is perhaps a more likely occurrence of a natural disaster or prolonged service outage of some sort which challenges conventional modern day life. So it might not be the end of the world as we know it, but more like the ‘end of my typical Tuesday’ which may evoke the need to enact some of the principles and strategies for which this community is renowned. The prospect has become a lot more palatable for my wife as I’ve framed some of these acquisitions in the context of us being able to embark on camping trips and enjoy the outdoors more together. I am not leading her under false pretenses. I am very up front with what my primary inclination and motivation is derived from. But in the end if ‘The End’ never happens, I wouldn’t want to have spent the sums of money and time and not ever had a use for my portable water purification system.

My parting advice is that I recommend self-performing any such improvements on your vehicle. I think the owner should be well acquainted with the intricacies of the outfit such that they are aware of any vulnerabilities and the various service points afforded to the user to ensure continued operation. I also found, in working through and planning the installations (this is the one area where I did employ planning), I considered pathways and approaches which afforded me the best chance of transferability or reusability of components. My CB radio could be hardwired directly to the battery. I instead opted to power it from a cigarette lighter so I could transfer it for use in another vehicle or just quickly extract it and salvage it for parts to be able to service the handheld CB radio I picked up. All in all, any effort that moves one from a state of dependency to self-sufficiency is effort well spent, even if the progression was a bit haphazard. I’ve definitely learned a lot through the various successes and missteps.

James,
Thanks again for doing everything you do.  It is with great pleasure I write to you again to contribute some of my knowledge. I mean no offense to Caspar d'Gonzo, but after reading his article I have the notion that he has not yet actually constructed a gasifier based on the FEMA instructions.  Though his article was very good about covering the theory and basics.

I was first fascinated with gasification when I saw them make a gasifier on The Colony.  I read about it and planned to build one.  Not long after I almost wrecked my Jeep while driving through northern Pennsylvania when I saw someone using a home-made gasifier on a car.  I pulled over and chatted with them and now I really had a passion instilled in me for an alternative energy vehicle.

Fall of 2010 I had a college course called Alternative Energy, and the final project was constructing something relevant to the class.  Some classmates and myself tackled the FEMA wood gasifier.  Other groups built solar food dehydrators, small hydro-electric generators, waste oil burners, etc.  The FEMA gasifier instructions are a good starting point, but far from all you need.  Ingenuity and creativity will get you from the FEMA instructions to a working model.

I sized my gasifier to run the 134 cubic inch, 72 horespower engine in my 1963 Jeep CJ5.  At the beginning of my project, I wanted to run that CJ5 with the gasifier.  Now, I see that this will wear out an engine faster than normal fuels, so I will be building a dedicated gasifier powered vehicle in the future.  Also, the gasifier ended up being very large overall, and requires a pickup truck or trailer.  It would not fit in the back of my CJ5.

I was fortunate enough to have full access to a local salvage yard that was sympathetic to college students.  I could go out and pick through acres of scrap, and I still could not find some of the items that FEMA called for.  The instructions are outdated.  Be prepared to deviate and get creative.

Some things I learned...

Harbor freight has the cheapest ball valves for the carburetor unit.

Garages have 125 lb grease drums/gear oil drums that make good filter housings.  They usually throw them away or use them for garbage cans.  I got one with a re-usable lid just for asking.

Home Depot sells a fireplace sealer in white tubs that worked well on the inside to protect the metal from heat cycle fatigue and seal welds and gaps. But be sure to put it on thin or it will never cure.

I used two 55 gallon drums from the scrap yard instead of garbage cans.  They're thicker and usually found for free, but make sure they didn't have anything in them that could poise a health risk when you have a fire inside.

For the shaker bowl in the bottom of the gasifier, I found a stainless steel colander (bowl with lots of holes) large enough at a restaurant equipment supply store.  They had lot's of sizes and very economically priced.

I used flexible steel exhaust hoses to connect the gasifier to the filter and the filter to the carburetor unit.  They were kind of pricey at my local auto parts store but I was having trouble locating heat resistance flexible pipe.

I used a 4" Attwood Turbo 12v inline blower to draw a vacuum at the carburetor unit and get the gasifier going.  This fan worked really well and I found PVC pipe fittings at Lowe's to connect it to the exhaust pipe. These fans are built for pulling fumes out of boat hulls, so they're typically advertised as spark-less, and the best price I found was online at walmart of all places.  This fan was really useful, because by flipping the wires I could run the fan backwards and blow air into the gasifier to fan the flames on start-up.  Switch the wires back and pull the gas through.

The only free fuel I could get my hands on at college were green pine wood chips made for mulch use.  I would not recommend that less than ideal fuel, but it did still produce flammable gas.  I had tar and filthy water pouring out of my filter.  The FEMA design for a filter was really ineffective.  When I get back into the gasifier project I will be researching what other people are using because a can full of wood chips will not keep your engine running for long.  Lot's of tar and moisture were bypassing it.  Obviously, I did not have enough temperature drop for condensation and particulate filtration going on.  The fuel definitely needs to be a good wood, not pine, that is dried.  Dried goat manure was used with success on the PA Apocalypse TV show.

The only testing I did was on a 6 HP Briggs & Stratton small engine and it ran fine on the gas I was producing, but when I took the head off after test running there was a lot of tar inside.  I was always able to light the gas coming out of the gasifier outlet for entertainment value and have a nice pink or orange flame to verify it was producing gas.  Also, I only used my gasifier while stationary, not mobile on a vehicle, so I was frequently shaking the bowl in the bottom to pass ashes through it and pushing the fuel in the top into the fire tube.  Mobility is a must with this design so that shakes and bumps going down the road keep things running, but other designs exist that are intended to be stationary.

Right now I'm playing with burning waste motor oil and vegetable oil in a 1967 military surplus M35A2 ("Deuce and a half") I purchased with great success.  For now, my gasifier will sit and wait until I have more time to experiment with filtration and quality fuel.  I hope to find an older 4-cylinder truck, like a cheap Chevy S10 to mount the gasifier on.

Good Luck with Gasification, - Josh in Pennsylvania

 

James Wesley:
The recent article by Caspar d'Gonzo in SurvivalBlog left out the advances by the open source group gekgasifier.com

They have taken the WWII design into the modern era, with a much more efficient design, as well as a design that is easier to start and produces much less tar than the FEMA design. Best Regards, - Bill M.

World War II has always fascinated me. I spend a great deal of time reading and researching a wide array of books, articles and Internet sites about this period. To the conquered peoples of Europe and Asia, it must certainly must have seemed like the end of the world as they knew it.  

One of the most fascinating aspects of my studies is discovering how individuals and groups in Axis-held countries survived behind enemy lines.  Valuable lessons can be gleaned by looking at the tactics and techniques of underground and partisan groups in France, the Philippines, Yugoslavia, China, Norway, Belgium and many other invaded lands.

Recently, I read a book written by Lt. Colonel Will Irwin, US Army, retired. His book The Jedburghs: The Secret History of the Allied Special Forces, France 1944.  Irwin’s research is excellent; it is a riveting chronicle of secret teams that were dropped deep into Nazi occupied France. Working with local partisans known as “maquis”, the teams conducted a roaming guerrilla war against German forces.  

The book revealed that French resistance forces had little or no access to gasoline during this period. The Germans needed every gallon for their own military needs, so many French improvised a technology that -- in today’s übermodern high-tech society -- has long overlooked.  This technology, gasogene-powered internal combustion engines, became a popular method of fueling cars, trucks, and even buses during late World War II.

Simply defined, standard gasoline-fueled vehicle engines were converted with a wood- or charcoal-burning unit.  The unit did not generate steam for power, but instead it created a combustible gas to run the engine.  Such knowledge had been around since the late 1800s.

The gasogene device is known as a wood gas generator or gasifier by engineers.  This gasification process has all but disappeared in vehicle propulsion in the 21st Century. Gasogene devices create a mixture of nitrogen, hydrogen, methane, carbon monoxide and other, combustible gases. When these are cooled and filtered they can be introduced into an internal combustion engine as an efficient fuel.

In a TEOTWAWKI environment, one quickly realizes that wood, charcoal and other natural items (even coconut husks) would be plentiful and easily acquired.  Having a gasogene powered car, tractor or generator would be a huge advantage in surviving a post-apocalyptic world.

In a FEMA document on powering vehicles through gasification it was noted that “a catastrophic event could disrupt the supply of petroleum in this country so severely that this wood gas generation might be critical in meeting the energy needs of some essential economic activities, such as the production and distribution of food. In occupied Denmark during World War II, 95% of all mobile farm machinery, tractors, trucks, stationary engines, and fishing and ferry boats were powered by wood gas generator units. Even in neutral Sweden, 40% of all motor traffic operated on gas derived from wood or charcoal. All over Europe, Asia, and Australia, millions of gas generators were in operation between 1940 and 1946.”


HOW A GASOGENE UNIT WORKS

Internal combustion engines use gasoline. What many do not realize is that the liquid that we know as gasoline is turned into a vapor and burned as a gas. The technology under the hood converts the liquid form into the gas form.  The vapor is injected into the engine and is explosively burned (combustion).  The same is true for wood gas.  Burning wood in a controlled gasifier creates a combustible vapor that will fire in the engine.

The gasogene creates a chemical process where the superheated vapors evolve into gases that the engine then burns. This is also known as a stratified, downdraft gasifier as the vapors go through four zones within the device and into the engine.  

The first zone is at the highest point of the machine.  Because the vapors are drawn down and into the second zone (the downdraft), the first zone is a 20 to 30 gallon metal container positioned atop the second zone, a smaller 10 to 15 gallon container.

The first container might be a small metal trash can or other type of metal box than can hold wood fuel.  This upper container draws in air to aid in the combustion of the wood.  A fire box connects the upper container with the lower metal container.  The fire box is surrounded by open air in the lower container and a metal grate or screen is at the bottom of the fire box.  Burnt wood char and ash fall from this grate into the bottom of the second container.  This container has to be cleaned of all spent ash to keep the process efficient.  This first container stacked above the second container (zones one and two) are the gasification segment.

From the second container a pipe runs to a third container, known as the filter unit. This enclosed container is filled with clean wood chips that act as filter medium to draw off particulates that are moving with the hot vapors in the smoke.  The wood chips draw off these contaminates and a clean stream of hot vapors moves through to the final process.  A blower is located above the third container to maintain air flow.

From the filter unit a longer pipe takes the vapors downstream to the engine manifold.  An air intake valve pulls additional cooler outdoor air to “sweeten” the combustible gases just before entering the engine.  A modifier connection attaches the gasifier pipe to the engine.  A throttle valve is also mounted just before the pipe enters the engine so the flow of fuel can be controlled and help regulate vehicle speed.

Described by a layman, imagine a small metal garbage can mounted above a metal canister about the size of a five-gallon paint bucket. A short pipe connects to a third canister (also the size of a five-gallon bucket. A longer pipe, with throttle and air valve, connects to the engine manifold.

Hundreds of thousands of gasogene engines built during World War II demonstrated that innovation in use of cans, buckets and piping had little or no effect on performance. Clever mechanics used all types of scavenged and jury-rigged components.

Three things are critical to overall success and performance of the gasogene:

A. The most critical element is that the fire tube’s (running into the manifold) inside diameter and length must be carefully matched to the rated horsepower of the engine.

B. The gas generator units and all piping must be totally airtight at all times.

C. Friction must be eliminated in all air and gas passages. This is done by avoiding
sharp bends in the pipe and by employing pipe sizes which are not too small.

SKILLS NEEDED TO CONSTRUCT THE GASOGENE MACHINE

One primary skill will be creating metal connections.  Cutting metal using snips is important.  Bending and brazing pipe is about the most difficult of the work.  It is much a combination of plumbing skills and metalworking -- but it is well within the skill set of most people who are moderately familiar with tools.

Having someone with plumbing skills assist makes construction of the device much easier, but not essential.  Many in World War II constructed these fuel generators with basic hand tools, components found in junk yards and assembled in extreme conditions.

OPERATIONAL AND SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

The Gasogene unit burns wood and this means that frequent cleaning of the wood container and fire box.  Ash and char will fill the lower container under the fire box very quickly.  Starting the wood fuel will take some practice.  Depending upon the engine itself, most units will be able to power an average sized automobile about 15 to 20 miles at regular road speeds.  Shutting down the unit requires a cooling down period.  

There are safety considerations that require attention.  The gases produced from the unit are toxic and attention must be paid to ventilation.  Enclosed cars, garages and such must be adequately vented to prevent dangerous build up of toxic gases.  However, the same could be said for traditional gas fueled engines.

Having a container filled with burning wood on a moving vehicle is always a major consideration.  Under normal operating conditions, this is not much of an issue.  But, in the event of an accident it is very important to remember that fire risks are increased.

TAKING THE NEXT STEP

If gasogene is of interest to your future plans for self-sufficiency, it is important to be proactive now.  The good news is there are plenty of resources to give you the exact plans and specifications needed to create an efficient operating gasogene engine.  Kits are available to accelerate the build, but are absolutely unnecessary.

RESOURCE LIST

CONSTRUCTION OF A SIMPLIFIED WOOD GAS GENERATOR
for Fueling Internal Combustion Engines in a Petroleum Emergency
FEMA Document
http://www.woodgas.net/files/FEMA_emergency_gassifer.pdf
The absolute best reference was published by FEMA.  It not only covers all of the conceptual aspects of a gasogene-powered engine as well as a complete set of technical plans with parts list.  It is a single-source document that is free and available online as a PDF document.  This should be a part of any document package being assembled for future times.

WOOD GAS AS ENGINE FUEL
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations
FAO Forestry Paper 72
http://www.woodgas.net/files/FOA_072.pdf
This UN document contains 139 pages of technical charts and graphs, scientific analysis and economic data on the potential and reality of wood gas fuels.  It is free as an online PDF.  Interesting for those seeking greater rationale on why wood gas can be an efficient alternative to petroleum in an emergency.

'Coast to Coast on Homemade Fuel,' Mother Earth News (#73) pp, 178-179. Jan/Feb 1982.
'Wood Gas Update,' Mother Earth News (#71) pp. 164-165. Sep/Oct 1981.
‘Mother's Woodburning Truck,' Mother Earth News (#69) pp. 126-129. May/Jun 1981

Some Useful Web Sites

Woodgas.net

Gasifyer.com

Mother Earth News Wood Gas Generator Plans ($15.00)

Hi Mr. R.:
I worked in a bike shop for five years up until two years ago and my better half continues to work in a bike shop to this day.

I have to say having a road (or "racing") bike for when the SHTF is a really bad idea. Road bikes are kind of like the sports cars of the bicycling world. They are not meant to beat upon, you run over or hit the wrong thing on the road or whatever--even gravel--and you could be walking. They eat tires and tubes. I have changed hundreds, maybe a thousand or two road bike tubes, usually  because of a small piece of steel belt from a car tire, or thorns, were embedded in the tire. Kevlar liners help a little. Also, most road bike tires run between 80 to 130 PSI. Pumping them to that pressure can be a chore for the weak or small statured person [, especially when using a small clip-on touring pump].

The most replaced parts on a bike are going to be the tubes, then the tires. From there parts breakage begins to vary widely, I would say the best bike for when the SHTF would have to be a hard tail mountain bike. Skip the road bikes and comfort bikes. In essence: You can ride a Mountain bike anywhere a road bike or comfort bike can go, but not vise versa. Also, as much as I love downhill and free ride bicycles , stay away from these beasts for SHTF, since you most likely will not break one, and if you do you will be broken too (trust me). They are on the opposite end of the spectrum from a road bike. Full suspension is awesome,I love mine, but if I were in a grid down mess, and toasted a pivot bearing, I would then be SOL. There can be lots of pivots and bearings, air shocks, although much much better now than the past can be a a problem.

Bike shop brands are going to be the best bet, but not essential. Up until left the industry a couple of years ago, the majority of big name frames were made by Giant, and then Fuji. So as far as weld quality, they are going to be close. Also, as awesome as Carbon frames and parts are, stay away from them, that carbon framed bike is super strong with riding forces, but lay that bad boy down and pinch the top tube or down tube and you bay get a really big surprise that could cost you a grand or two, and in the SHTF, it will be a total loss (unless you have vacuum  bags and a high heat high pressure autoclave.) Also carbon fiber frames can fail in quite a dramatic fashion, leaving little shards of carbon in you to pick out.

You really do get what you pay for up to a point as far as strength and quality. There is a point you start paying for weight and technology, and that means next to nothing in a grid down situation. I can expand on this in great detail if you would like, this is just the tip of the iceberg, i really do think that in a SHTF situation, bicycles will be essential. - J., Esse Quam Videri

Transportation is so easy today, its laughable.  I can take a flight from Seattle, Washington to Hong Kong and arrive 13 hours later.  Before oil was processed to produce fuel, a trip from Seattle to Hong Kong took several months on a boat in cramped conditions and meager rations.  Millions, if not billions, of people take our current methods and modes of transportation for granted.  What if these modes of transportation were suddenly not available because of (insert scenario here)?  If you can't think of a scenario, I'll list a few:  Peak Oil, World War III, End of the Petro dollar, and/or a societal breakdown.  If cheap gasoline were no longer available, how would you get around?  This article will attempt to address concerns of what could happen and what a survivalist/prepper can do to become more prepared to get around in a post-disaster world. 

Bicycle
I want to first consider one of the most efficient methods of transportation: the bicycle.  The technology in making bicycles has changed very little over the past hundred years.  This is because the main concept is so simple and so efficient.  The main advances in technology for the bicycle have been the materials.  Expensive bicycles in today’s world are made out of light-weight, durable metals and plastics.  You can find cheaper bicycles, but they tend to be made from cheaper materials, which tend to be heavier and less durable.  As far as the type of bicycle I would go with, it depends on the terrain around you.  If speed and lightness is your requirement, a road bike may be for you; however, if there is rugged terrain around you, or if you want to go off-road a mountain bike would be best.  If you don't have much cash, a cheap bike can be found at almost any department store for around a hundred bucks.  I would, however, pony up a little more dough for a lighter, heavier-duty one at a bike store.  Be sure you know how to repair your bike.  Talk it over with your bike mechanic and purchase the tools you will need in order to fix your bike.  The most common things are brake pads, tires, inner tubes, chains, and cables (for the shifters and brakes).  Be sure to have a few spare wheels, tires, inner tubes, and as mentioned before, chains.  As always, there are pros and cons to using a bicycle for transportation.  The upside is the light weight, effort to energy ratio, speed, low cost and ease of maintenance.  The downside is low cargo capacity, the need for roads or a trail, and they are also easy to steal.  One thing to consider is in a TEOTWAWKI situation, in almost every garage around the United States there is a bicycle, and sometimes spare parts.    So if you're short of cash, you can skimp in the spare parts area and focus on something more important.

The Horse
People I've spoken to often praise horses as a main mode of transportation come TEOTWAWKI.  This is most likely due to the prevalence of the horse in books and movies of the old west.  While they do provide fast transportation, horses need a high level of care.  Horses often weigh around a thousand pounds and require a high input of feed to maintain energy levels.  Horses need plenty of grazing land and a fence or corral in order to be kept.  They also need to be fed during the winter, and the availability of hay or alfalfa will probably be almost nonexistent, depending upon where you live.  Unless you plan to ride bareback they also require a saddle and bridle which require maintenance.  Something else to consider is how others will see you.  Not many people will be riding around on a horse, and if people see you riding one, they perceive you as being wealthy.  You may then immediately become a target for theft or worse. 

If you do intend on living off of the land and traveling often, a horse may be the right mode of transportation for you, for the horse can graze constantly when you're not traveling.  If you have a group with you, a buggy or wagon can be beneficial.  The issue is obtaining one post-disaster.  Be sure to know where you're going and the land around you for horses need to be watered just as you do. 

Our Own Two Feet
People have been walking from place to place since...well, as long as we've existed.  Our own two feet are wonderful machines of transportation.  The only problem is they need to be covered, unless you've lived your life barefoot and don't intend to walk on random sharp objects.  What you can do now is purchase several pairs of well-fitted hiking boots and other footwear you will need.  Tennis shoes wear out quickly, but you can run faster in a pair of tennis shoes than in boots.  The important thing is to purchase what you think you will need, and to be on the safe side, buy a few extra pairs and store them away.  If you have a bug out bag, it might be wise to throw in one of these extra pairs of shoes. 

Socks are often overlooked when prepping.  If you can afford it, buy several dozen pairs of socks that are suited to your environment.  The colder the environment, the thicker the sock you want.  Consider wool versus cotton as well.  Some people prefer one over the other, you will have to make your own choice.  The ability to wick water away from your foot is a definite must.  When walking long distances, or hiking, moisture is the enemy; water-wicking socks help remove moisture away from your skin, keeping your feet dry.  In your first-aid kit, also be sure to have some mole-skin; the best cure for blisters.  Mole-skin can be found in any first-aid section of most pharmacies.  Another addition to consider for your first aid kit is a spray or lotion for combating foot fungus.  If your toenails are yellow or unusually thick, then they are infected with fungus and need to be treated.

Waterproof boots are a must-have if you live in or near a wet environment.  If a flood happens and you don't have a pair, you'll regret not purchasing them.  They also work great in the mud.  If you happen to live in a snowy environment, you will want to purchase a good pair of snowshoes, and skis for cross-country skiing.  The ideal way to transport goods in a snowy or icy environment would be a sled and a team of sled-dogs, but they require a lot of upkeep and training.  A simpler way to transport goods would be a travois, which I will cover next. 

Travois
A travois is easy to build out of natural materials, and can be used to transport a load of goods, or even a person.  It is built by crossing two long poles or straight pieces of wood.  These two pieces of wood are bound together at one end; strips of leather, 550 cord, or rope will do, while a net or piece of canvas can be secured along the length of both poles, forming a triangle.  The narrow end of the triangle then leads to a person or draft animal to drag the travois after you've loaded it with goods.  Native American Indians used travois extensively, carting around goods, and even their tepee homes.  They also made smaller travois to be used by their children as well as dogs.  If a harness is made, it can actually be easier on your back if you use a travois instead of a large backpack.  You can also transport an injured person on a travois stretcher. 

Two-Wheel Carts
Hand cart have been used for centuries, and they are more efficient that a travois. They also don't leave a rutted trail like a travois. They are relatively stable and can carry surprisingly large loads. Modern carts include garden carts and deer carriers. Modern carts use bicycle type tires, so you will have to plan for patching tires, just like with a bike. And like a bike, the tires can be treated with Slime, internally, for self-sealing of minor punctures. There are also "airless" foam-filled tire available,m although these have greater weight and rolling resistance than air-filled tires..

Water Transportation
Water transportation used to be the main method for transporting large amounts of goods before the invention of gasoline and diesel.  It is still the main method of transportation, but by use of large oceangoing barges carrying thousands of tons of materials, commodities and products.  What do these barges rely on?  Fuel. 

If you live by a body of water, or the ocean you definitely want to consider using water transportation.  Canoes, kayaks, floats, tubes, and row boats in general are excellent ways of traveling on the water.  They also provide a platform to fish from in deeper waters.  Live near a lake?  You most likely already have a kayak, canoe or small waterborne vessel.  If you don't, put that on your priority list.  If you're thinking about a kayak, there are several varieties.  Recreational kayaks tend to be shorter and wider, offering more stability.  They are, however, much slower than the racing kayaks, which tend to be slimmer and lighter.  There are lighter recreational kayaks, but will cost more money due to the materials used.  If you're into SUP (Stand Up Paddling), that's okay, but a SUP board is more for recreational use than practical use.  The only practical use I can see for a SUP board is for spear or bow fishing, and even then it's not very practical.

Another thing to keep in mind is storing supplies in your boat, kayak or canoe.  Keep a few gallons of water, dried food and fishing supplies in the storage compartments, because you never know when that may come in handy down the line.  You can even think of it as your bug-out-boat.

Others Animals
Some may think using a cow or a donkey for transportation isn't very logical.  At first, I would agree, but it depends.  As a last resort, a light rider can ride a cow or donkey but it isn't going to go very fast.  Cows of course also provide more than just a mount.  A dairy cow can provide milk, providing that it hasn't dried off.  A cow can also be used for meat as we very well know, so don't begrudge the cow as a mode of transportation.  Cows as well as goats can also be used as pack animals.  Be sure the load is evenly distributed along the animal's back, making the animal more comfortable and less likely to give you trouble during the trek.  Goats also give milk as well as cows as well as offering meat.  Sheep don't make very good pack animals. Horses aren't widely known for their milk, yet there are people, mostly in Mongolia, that are known for drinking horse milk.  Unless you have previous knowledge of milking a horse, do not attempt to milk a horse!  Attempting to do so can endanger your life.  I once had trouble milking one of our goats (it did not want to be milked), I can't imagine the amount of trouble a horse can give you. 

Oxen or other large draft animals can be used to pull a wagon for group transportation or carrying large amounts of supplies.  Needless to say these animals will need to be taken care of, and the wagon will need to be maintained and fixed.  This includes spare parts, tools and a knowledge of carpentry.  These animals can also be used on a farm, for plowing, if you have the land available, and cleared land with good soil for growing crops. 

Dogs
Man's best friend can help you in a number of various ways.  They may not be able to carry much, but they can be given some food stuffs or other gear to carry, provided you have saddlebags that fit the animal.  Dogs, if trained, can be hunting companions as well.  They can aid in defense, and also be a wonderful companion.  They don't take much to feed and generally take care of themselves very well.  If you also have several other animals, or a farm/ranch, dogs can also be trained to help protect your herd of animals.  Be sure your dog is trained, for domesticated dogs have been known to kill chickens, goats and other livestock simply because it is in their nature as a predatory animal. 

Hopefully this article points you in a direction you want to take for post-disaster transportation.  Once you have an idea, investigate your method further, and ask more questions of a subject matter expert.  The best thing is to adapt to your environment, now and in the future.  None of us have all of the answers, but if we adapt, and work together we will survive anything that comes our way.

[Editor's Note: A short draft edition of this article was previously posted in a discussion forum].

I am a very new prepper, but feel that I am making some decent advances in my prepping goals. Although my preps may be much smaller then most, I still think I am doing better then most of the general population, and have budgeted for weekly and monthly improvements to my preps.

While reading this and other survival based blogs and forums (not so much here, but other places get real out of hand), I've noticed that the conversation or topic tends to lean towards guns, ammo, tactical gear etc. Now granted, these are important topics, but there are other equally important topics. I personally have what I consider to be a good stock of firearms, ammo and parts, but my opinion is, they are just tools. My weapons are a tool to protect and feed my family. I would like to discuss another survival tool, a garden tractor.

When I say garden tractor, most people may be thinking of the 4-wheel drive Kubota/John Deere/Cub Cadet with a diesel, 3 point hitch and bucket loader that you see new at your county fair for approximately $15,000 new. Those machines are actually more referred to as compact utility tractors, and not garden tractors. If you have the means to make that type of purchase, then I say go for it. I'm your average blue collar middle class guy with a wife and two young sons (4 and 6), to say that $15,000 is out of my price range is the understatement of the year! Also, keep in mind that the new tractors on the market, even down to that size, can be as high tech as new automobiles with their computer modules and electronics. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't be able to repair a power-train control module in my yard today, let alone during a TEOTWAWKI situation.

I'll start with, I am partial to John Deere, but you can choose your flavor if you decide to look into do this as well. The key item to look for, no matter who the manufacturer, is that it have some type of hydraulics. It can be a hydrostatic transmission, or a hydraulic lift for the mower deck. You can add a hydraulic system to any garden tractor (anything with an engine to run the pump actually), but that is well outside of my knowledge and the scope of this information. If you do add a hydro system to your machine, from there you can work along with the following. The key is that it be equipped with a hydraulic pump, once you have that, let the modifications begin.

This all started when I needed a new lawn mower, and there was no way I was going to the big box stores and spending $3,000 on a pile of plastic that wouldn't last. I knew I wanted a machine to mow the lawn, plow/disc/cultivate a garden, grade the driveway and run a snow blower or snow blade in bad weather. I started my search and landed on a 1976 John Deere Model 312. Some people look at this as a collectible tractor since they wee only built for two years, so if you're a John Deere purist, you may want to stop reading here. As I appreciate what the machine is, again, in my opinion it is a tool to perform a job.

The 312 was offered as an entry level tractor for a couple years, but I found that tractors, like cars, are easily up-gradable when pulling parts from a similar series/model. In it's stock form, it has a single circuit hydraulic system that raises the deck, a 12HP Kohler that is virtually bullet proof and still uses points and condenser no electronic ignition, has a hydrostatic transmission and weighs just shy of 1,000 lbs without any attachments or driver. When you go to the big box stores, you see them advertise 20 hp and up engines, but I think they are using the “new” math. This is 12HP but somewhere in the range of 27 ft lbs of torque. This is a stout machine!

From there, it's time to start working. For your rear ground engaging attachments, there is no need for a 3 point hitch on this size tractor. Almost every garden tractor manufacturer has offered a sleeve hitch as an option, or you can built your own. In it's simplest form, it's boxed tubing that is hinged onto the back of your tractor that can be raised or lowered manually or with some mechanical power. Mine is hydraulic, but I have seen electric actuators, electric winches or just handle levers. Here is a link to a piece at Weekend Freedom Machines--a great resource for John Deere owners)- to their PDF blueprints to build your own sleeve hitch for a majority of the older John Deere machines like the one I own.

The attachments you purchase or make have C channel that fits over the box tubing and pinned in place to give a "positive lock" to the tractor, instead of just a pin through a hole that can pivot. Now you can work your implements into the ground.

With mine, I run a 1 bottom moldboard plow, 2 gangs of 10" discs, a cultivator and a small box scraper. If you are unfamiliar with the use of these attachments, the moldboard plow is used to break ground or turn already broken ground. Setting up the plow properly does take some trial and error. If set too deep, it will stop any tractor in it's tracks. Set to shallow and it will want to keep jumping out of the ground. When set up properly, the plow will “curl” the row of soil over onto the previous passes furrow, down between 8-10 inches. The disc harrow is then used to chop the clumps, sod, organic material into a finer, more consistent and workable. One quick tip, when making your garden hills, you don't need a "hiller". After you're done discing the soil, raise up your disc harrow, spine the gangs around backwards and angle at about a 20 degree angle. 2-3 passes in the same direction will result in a 8-to-12 inch hill, depending on your soil. The cultivator is of course for weed duties. I would advise that when you purchase, or build your cultivator, you make it adjustable, so you are able to move the tines so they will straddle your your crops while they are small, then can move back together to keep down the weeds in the paths between your rows. Yes, you did read that correctly, even with this size machine, you can do work straddling your crops while they are young. With my machine, there is 10” of ground clearance, that amount will vary by model. Lastly, the box scraper is normally used by landscapers, I used it mainly to grade out my driveway.. In the garden, I like to use it to move around my compost. At the start of the season, my compost pile will be a 4-6 feet tall mound, right next to my garden site. Instead of spreading by shovel, I will back up to the pile and bite into it with the scraper and drag it out around the garden.

Last year's garden was just about 1/3 acre, will have to see what next year brings. It seems to get larger every year. I have measured out my property, and by using some simple grid paper, I found that I can plant up to just under a 1 acre garden in a survival situation. I do know people that tend 2 acres with this same set up. That size is very time consuming, but way far more efficient then tending that size garden by hand.

As far as implements for the rear, your imagination is your only limit. If you can weld it or bolt it to a piece of c channel, you can shove it in the ground and drag it along. One of my friends was concerned about loosening up the soil deeper them his plow was going. He bought a single 24" tooth from a piece of heavy machinery for $20 and tacked on the C channel bracket. When engaged in the ground, it is 18" under ground ripping the soil up. I have made a very simple type of lift for mine. I have a 6 foot long piece of box steel, that I notched and drilled on one end to properly attach to my sleeve hitch. The other end I drilled and bolted a couple link long section of chain with a hook on it. When attached to the hitch, using the hydraulics to lift the sleeve hitch, I can now lift heavy items with a chain, instead of potentially injuring myself trying to lift something way too heavy. Think of this along the lines of an engine hoist in a mechanics shop (actually where I got the idea from).

Now for the front hydraulics. Since you already have a hydraulic pump, it is easy to run a single circuit to the front. On the hydraulic control valve, where the ports are that go to the existing cylinder (deck raise etc), use 2 T fittings, and run 2 lines to the front, with couplers for attachments. On mine, I decided to go with a second circuit to the front, which was a very simple task. I purchased a 2 circuit valve from a higher model 300 series tractor at a salvage yard for $40, and ran a second set of lines. Now I have the ability to not only raise and lower my plow out front, but also angle side to side. This also gives the option of installing a front bucket loader. Yes, they have bucket loaders for this size machine. I have used them before for garden tractors, but I haven't purchased on yet for mine.

For the most part, the standard front attachments aren't really survival tools (unless the zombies are slow enough to chase them down with my snow blower), so some may ask, why go through the upgrades for the front hydraulics? First, I'm a guy, like playing with plows and snow blowers and tinkering with stuff. Second, and more to the point, think outside the box a little.. I now have 2 hydraulic circuits independent of each other, that can power almost anything. Keep in mind, most people in America will throw out an item that doesn't work absolutely perfect and just "go buy another". I got a log splitter from someone at work that he seized the motor on. There's this stuff called oil that you are supposed to check periodically to see if it's still there. Anyhow, I pulled the motor and control valve off, leaving behind the ram, wedge and stop. I took the fittings out of the ram and the info for the couplers to my new hydraulics to my local NAPA. Asked for 2 hoses, 6 feet long with those ends, 10 minutes later I was out of there. Now, my tractor hydraulics operate my log splitter. Instead of 2 engines and 2 control valves to maintain and have parts for, there is only 1. I find that much easier to plan for.

At a yard sale, I found a generator for sale that wouldn't run. Bought it for $30. Never took the time to find out why it wouldn't run, just separated the generator from the engine, make a quick little mounting plate for the front of the tractor, added a pulley to the generator and lined up with pulley on front of engine. Now an easily portable generator and again, only one engine to worry about. I am currently looking for a larger generator through.

Which brings be to the issue of noise pollution. If left in it's stock form, this is far from quiet, and you would let the whole neighborhood know what's going on in a grid down situation. For my machine, and most garden tractors of this era, they have a cylindrical type muffler. With some tinkering, here is what I've found and the results. You can open the muffler by cutting at the seam and removing one end of the muffler, like opening a can of soup. Once inside, gut it. Mine had some of the matting in place still, but I would say, whatever you find in there, gut it. Now get a roll of high temp fiberglass matting. I used the material that is used for making gaskets in propane fireplaces. Line the cylindrical walls with the matting, I went three layers thick, then cover with a thin steel mesh to keep in place. Tack weld the mesh in a couple of spots just to hold it in place, then reinstall the end that you cut off and weld back in place. It is hard to describe the sound difference in the written word. I'm not going to say that this is as quiet as an electric car or anything like that. But, it is rather amazing how quiet it is. I can be sitting on the tractor with the engine at full throttle and talk on my cell phone. I can hear the person on the phone no problem, and the person I am talking to can barely hear the tractor!

Some other odds and ends to help in multitasking. I have installed 4 off road type flood lights, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. I can work the ground or whatever else I need to do at night, or light up an area for other types of work.. If you plan to do this, I would suggest doing as I did. Find out what types of light bulbs your automobiles use, then find off road lights for your tractor that use those same bulbs. Remember, your vehicles may be lawn ornaments in a TEOTWAWKI situation, might as well use a couple of their spare parts.

Security, yes, I said security. On most garden tractors, the sheet metal that surrounds the dash board is merely for looks, and serve no structural purpose, so have some fun with it. In the panel directly under the steering wheel, facing the operators seat, I cut a hole and on the back side mounted a 10"x8"x8" metal box that I picked up at a yard sale. That's where my pistol rides (Bernardelli P018). The right side of the machine is where the brake pedal is, so the left side is clear. On the left side of machine, I made a box out of sheet metal on an angle with padding inside, which is bolted to the tractor's sheet metal. That's where my Mossberg Model 500 shotgun rides.

Now for the best part, prices:

1977 John Deere 312 with mower deck - $600
Sleeve Hitch OE John Deere - $80
Moldboard Plow - Free - Look around, lots of people have them and they are just rusting outside
Cultivator - $100
Disc Harrow - $150
Box Scrapper - $125 - Nice for grading driveway, and spreading large amounts of compost in garden.
Used parts for hydraulic conversion - $125
Snow Blower - $250 - This was a right time right place price.
Rear Ag Tires - $175 - you can use turf tires with chains in dirt and snow, but face it, ag tires just look cool! If getting new tires, I found the cheapest ballast was to fill tires with windshield wash fluid. Won't freeze added 48 lbs per tire and I believe it to be the least toxic affordable option if it were to leak into the garden.

I am sure I am forgetting a few items, but as you can see, this is a very versatile tool and simplifies how many power sources you need to maintain and store parts for. Even with whatever it is I am forgetting, I know I have less then $2500, over the course of a couple of years, in the whole set up....and it mows my lawn too!

I am not trying to offend anyone or represent myself as an expert. I know there are many preppers on this forum that will see none of what I am writing here as new. However, some people may need this information or have not thought of it. As for me a lot of this was learned over 13 years in the active Army and seven years as a policeman. I was placed working and living in some of the most inhospitable weather situations someone could find themselves in. Enough of my ranting and I will get to the point.

As I was finishing my final preparing for winter and watching the news about the storm hitting the plains states I realized that I should call my family to make sure they were ready for bad weather. This caused me to get a migraine real quick. Then I thought that I should put this all in writing so I could send it to them every winter and make my life easier. With that I figured why not share this information to everyone who reads this forum.

The first thing you should consider is weatherproofing your winter gear and camping gear just in case you actually need it. For my Goretex jackets (Yes even Goretex gets soaked thru eventually) and my canvas work jackets I waterproof them using Camp Dry (you can use any commercial waterproofing spray but I prefer this one). I recommend doing this outside if possible due to the fumes or in a well-ventilated area. It can also contaminate the area where you are working, due to silicone overspray. Also test the fabric of what you are about to weatherproof to make sure it doesn’t stain or ruin it. If you decided to use this product or others inside put something on the floor under the work area to protect it from staining.

For Bivvy Sacks for sleeping bags also use a product like Camp Dry to keep your sleeping bag dry. Also use a seam sealing product to make sure the seams are extra protected. You don’t want water just pouring in at the material seem and causing you to get soaked. Now I know they say the seams are already sealed, but do you trust them with your warmth and safety?

Now on to the topic of weatherproofing your boots. If they are leather boots use a product like Snow Seal and liberally coat the boots and then put them in the oven at 180 degrees for 1 hour (yes I said oven, by doing this you open the pores of the leather and allow it to absorb the Snow Seal. If your boots are made of something other than leather, then use Camp Dry, of course test the boots first to make sure it doesn’t ruin them. Wet feet can make you miserable real quick along with being a deciding factor in if you survive or not. Now to socks, cotton socks are evil! They will cause you to lose toes or worse. The reason for this is cotton doesn’t wick moisture away from the skin very well, but it is great at wicking away the heat from your feet causing your feet to stay cold and end up freezing. So get wool socks or advanced fabric socks as they are the best choice. They wick moisture away from the skin and will still keep your feet warm even when wet.  Always remember warm feet are happy feet and will help you survive.

Now your vehicle as you will most likely depend on this greatly in bad weather. Make sure your headlights are working properly and are bright after a few years they start to get dim and should be replaced. Also if you have the type of headlights that have a clear plastic cover you will probably notice that they are milky white. You need to fix this with a commercially available headlight polishing kit and follow the directions. I found one at a local auto parts store for fewer than thirty dollars. It made my headlights like new.

Windshield wipers should be in good working order and of a good quality that won’t clog with ice and stop working properly. If they are bad replace them before you need them. Not seeing and driving are not a good combination, with that also make sure that you have a winter grade windshield wash as if it freezes up then it won’t help you.
Next is your battery and alternator, the two things that almost always fail when bad weather hits. Go to an auto parts store and have them put the tester on them to make sure they are okay. This will go a long way in easing worries about your vehicle not starting when you need it most.

As for vehicle maintenance not only does your oil need to be changed regularly but so does your antifreeze, power steering fluid, brake fluid, transmission fluid, differential and transfer case oil if you have them. With these an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Now to your emergency kit for the car, in this should be a minimum of jumper cables (not everyone has them, but every care has a battery so if you have them you can get a jump), a set of work gloves (for changing tires and such) a knit cap or some other winter headgear, warm gloves, blanket’s, a few common tools (to tighten battery cables and such), emergency markers (I prefer flares and strobe lights over reflectors, as reflectors require headlights to hit them to be seen). Also having a days’ worth of food and water in the vehicle is nice in case you get stranded in your car. You can get emergency food rations and water from most survival or prepping web sites.  Having sand for traction and a compact shovel to dig out is a must also. You can also make traction ramps buy cutting heavy grate material about the width of 1 ½ the size of your tires and 3 feet long. Using this can also help you or someone else get unstuck in snow. Tire chains or snow tires are a must and if your tread is getting to the point of being only ¼ an inch deep get new tires. I know this seems a lot for your vehicle but when the worst case scenario that you never thought would happen to you does happen you will be better off for it. I know there is more for this topic but this is a good start. I also add my bug-out kit to my vehicle every time I get in it to drive. Also my bug-out kit and vehicle kit are one and the same. It makes it larger and heavier, but then I am never in the situation of saying why did I leave that at home

Now for the house besides back-up heating, food, water, lighting and the normal prepping stuff for bugging in there are a few items to consider. On backup heating you have to be careful due to carbon monoxide poisoning. I use the Mr. Heater MH18B Portable “Big Buddy” Heater by Mr. Heater as it has an automatic low oxygen shutoff system and tip-over safety shutoff.  If you don’t have something that senses when the oxygen is low or is made for indoor use then you need to have someone stay up preferably in shifts to watch the heater along with making sure there is enough ventilation in the room so there is not a build-up of Carbon Monoxide. This also goes for daytime heating and also for cooking. For lighting using low sulfur mineral instead of lamp oil in your oil lamps as it is cleaner and safer. Also it will keep you from having to repaint your house when everything is back to normal. This also goes for candles they will stain the pain in a house along with being a fire hazard. This is since we don’t run around using candles every day we will make mistakes that can and will be tragic. On that note with heating, cooking, and lighting you should have a couple a house-sized ABC fire extinguishers for emergencies.

You need one or two heavy tarps, parachute cord, and small sandbags so that you can put a temporary patch on your roof should a tree fall due to ice and snow and uses your house as a target. For windows having 2 inch wood screws, sheet plastic, and a couple of sheets of plywood to close up a broken window or door is a lifesaver. Also if you can precut the plywood for the windows it makes the repair a lot quicker.

A note on shoving snow, shoveling snow is considered heavy strenuous labor. It is also one of the leading causes of heart attacks in winter. So like any heavy workout take 15 minutes to warm up so your body realizes you are about to do something difficult. While working on removing the snow take many breaks. I normally only shovel snow for 15 minutes at a time then take a break so my heart rate can go back down. Also it may be cold but stay hydrated.

I hope everyone has a great winter, and hope that at least some of this information is helpful.

I've been struggling with an age-old problem trying to find a safe way to carry gasoline in my vehicle. I found a way I would like to pass along. Typical five gallon plastic or metal cans don't cut it. I'm a former EMT, so I've seen what a collision does to a vehicle carrying a five gallon can in the trunk, and it's not pretty.

I want a metal shell around a plastic bladder filed with aviation foam.  Paranoid?  Yes.  Possible? Absolutely! It turns out you can get fairly low cost racing fuel cells from several sources that meet the bill - and two of them will fit in the trunk of my Prius or back of my Jeep. See this at Amazon: RJS Racing 32 Gallon Fuel Cell. These sell for $269 including shipping. You can get the same fuel tank without the metal shield but with aviation foam for about $150.

In my Prius, that gives me an un-refueled range of 3,330 miles, allowing a coast to coast run with gas to spare or dash and back x2 from Northern California to Northern Idaho.

Which gives me more options than the average bear. - Michael M.

JWR:
Regarding the recent link in in SurvivalBlog to the articles on Converting a 1973-1991 Suburban to Cummins diesel engine, I have experience with the B and ISB series Cummins engines in several applications and believe they are fine powerplants. However, this swap IS an electronic engine and transmission, as described. And it is not necessarily something easily fixable in the kind of situation you envision.

I would suggest that a mechanical engine (which does include the earlier 12-valve B Cummins sixes and its four cylinder sibling the 4BT) and a manual transmission might be more suitable.

Several possibilities exist for this size of vehicle. I am sort of partial to the old Series 53 Detroit Diesel, all mechanical, simple unit injectors, nearly idiot proof. That's why these two cycle Detroits went into so many LTL day cab trucks: union drivers couldn't wreck them.

If you don't really need this big a vehicle, I would look at some of the smaller Japanese and German (Mercedes) engines with Bosch style injection pumps. These engines are in many, many small industrial machines, gensets, etc. so parts are available. They are not high horsepower but they are all mechanical and generally very robust. isuzu, Mitsubishi, Nissan all have some great choices. With Mercedes you are looking at the OM 616 and 617. They are lower horsepower, very reliable units. There are some all mechanical VM Cento engines out there as well. Parts support isn't quite as extensive but is available and they are quite robust, especially the six cylinder inline that went into FedEx and Airborne package delivery trucks for years. This engine is also widely used in marine sport boating applications and was installed in Jaguar cars in Germany by a tuner company with good results. - Roger R.

James,
After reading the recent article about Driving, Post-TEOTWAWKI: I believe there is some sound G.O.O.D. advice. However, assuming unhindered travels will allow rolling stores of survival gear to pass through any measurable distance unchallenged, is a dangerous assumption. The writer cites experience traveling in a military convoy with hardened, well armed vehicles. But for realistic, civilian style convoys, the dangers are multiplied by lack of experienced scout personnel and soft equipment. If one has sustained an extended bug in and has a supportive neighborhood, that may still remain the best option if bug out was not initiated within the first 24-48 hours. However, in the event of a national emergency, the thirst of our government to sustain control, likely will make a small civilian convoy a prize valued by government agents as much as by any band of rogues. When plotting the road traveled I would advise taking note of the locations of every National Guard Armory and bypassing those locations as far as possible. Roadblocks initiated by trained Guardsmen, with combat experience in hostile acquisition and checkpoints will also put the hurt on your evacuation plans. You and your family will be acquired and supplies confiscated. Best practice is still pre-positioning of supplies allowing for light, quick, and hopefully low-profile travel should that become your decision to do a deferred bug out. For Liberty, - P.T.

JWR,
I have deployed twice to Afghanistan. [Details deleted, for OPSEC.] I am sure that you realize this and I hope you will share this with your readers. Waiting months after TEOTWAWKI to drive to your retreat is more than foolish, it is suicidal. Anyone driving post-event without an armored vehicle (or with one, just look at the ambush scenes from "Patriots") will take casualties. Every day in Afghanistan uneducated people with limited training successfully ambush and kill highly trained military personnel driving heavily armed and armored vehicles. Now imagine an ambush that has had months to be perfected, probably through trial and error, where the ambushers are equally equipped [as you]. if not better equipped. Under these circumstances the convoy would simply have no chance. Very Best Regards, - Mike A.

Good Day, Mister Rawles,
Thank you as always for the good work you do. Regarding a late convoy out of Dodge I have this to add. I can only imagine that if you have to stop for a tyre change then you will become powerful goblin magnet. Needless to say it will not be a good time to be breaking rusty wheel bolts free with an old tyre iron. Thusly it's imperative that your wheels have been previously removed and meticulously reinstalled prior to your leaving. Your spares (yes, plural per vehicle) should be mounted to the outside of your vehicles. On a roof rack or tailgate would be the traditional approach.
The previously mentioned  maintenance vehicle running second to last in the pack will want to be equipped with a professional grade jack capable of lifting both the highest and lowest cars in your convoy, and a well charged cordless impact driver with spare batteries and labeled sockets for each vehicle is imperative.
You want to to be thinking NASCAR pit crew, not roadside assist. Any observers will have less time to organise and will also determine that you're going to be a tougher nut to crack than the usual TEOTWAWKI tourists.

Of course it's also essential to have iron clad rules in place to determine when a vehicle must be abandoned and its occupants/cargo redistributed. I say "iron clad" because your buddy may balk at leaving their BMW X5 in the 'burbs when its automatic transmission packs it in.

"But I still have first gear. We can just go slower, right?" As I said, Iron clad rules.
Kind Regards, - The Apple Islander

The TEOTWAWKI has occurred and you have made the decision to G.O.O.D. and head to your retreat location.  The electricity is out, but your vehicles still work.  You've stayed in your house for the last few months, kept a low profile, and have been able to avoid the initial chaos and Golden Horde of people leaving the cities.  Ideally, your suburban neighbors and relatives are somewhat prepared and you have banded together for protection and mutual sharing of resources.  Your retreat location is big enough for your family plus three other families.  How do you safely drive everyone to the retreat location?  As a convoy commander in Baghdad, Iraq, I had the opportunity to lead 50+ convoys in and around Baghdad during one of the most violent periods of the war.  We had great TTPs that allowed us to successfully accomplish our mission and move through the city.  I understand that there are many TTPs out there for various situations and not all are the same.  I am going to focus on the very basics so that a non-military minded individual can understand and implement these suggestions.  There are several specific/complex scenarios that have already been covered in older posts, and I will not cover them here.  For this scenario, I am going to assume there are eight vehicles (two per family) of various makes and models that are capable of driving to the retreat location.  Whether there are 3, 6, or 10 vehicles in your group, these basics can work, but obviously there is strength in numbers. 

First, it is important to understand the current situation in the area between your home and your retreat.  Attempt to get as much information as possible regarding weather, road conditions, routes, and how much criminal activity is on the roads.  If you have lived in the area for longer than a year, the only unknown will be whether parts of your route are still open and the level of criminal activity.  If you have the extra fuel, take two vehicles and try to recon part of the route.  The more you know before you leave your home, the better.  Because you waited for a few months before deciding to leave, more than likely there will not be a lot of vehicle traffic on the roads because no one will have gas anymore and the roads will be too dangerous.  You should already have planned and driven the route to your retreat location multiple times prior to the SHTF.  Take out a map, sit down with your fellow families and thoroughly go over the route.  Identify potential choke points (areas that force your vehicle to go through a tight spot, with no alternatives, that are great ambush spots).  Identify what type of roads you will be traveling on.  Are they 4-lane or 2-lane?  Are they back-country roads or interstate?  How many overpasses are there and do we go under them or get off the freeway and go over them?  What about road blocks?  Do you have alternate routes planned?  What intersections are in our route?   All of these questions need to be discussed, and analyzed using a road map before you leave. Remember, this is a one shot deal; you will not be returning to your home, so make it count! 

The next step is organization.  What order are the vehicles going to be in when you travel?  I realize that there are multiple variations of vehicles in a neighborhood, but this can still be done even if you have eight 4-door sedans.  Your lead vehicle should be one that is relatively fast, and should be higher off the ground, such as an SUV or pickup truck.  The higher seats give the driver and passenger more visibility when on the road.  This vehicle should be armed with at least a rifle that has some reach.  I am not going to discuss shooting from a moving vehicle.  What is important is that you are able to reach a target while stopped a few hundred yards away.  Your slower moving vehicles such as minivans should be in the middle of the group.  If you have multiple SUV/ pickup trucks, spread them out between the slow vehicles as these will be your primary firing/maneuvering platforms.  Your second to last vehicle should be where you keep all of your vehicle maintenance supplies.  If one of your vehicles has a maintenance issue, you do not want to make the maintenance repair vehicle turn around to help.  Your last vehicle should be your rear security vehicle.  Its entire job is to make sure no one attacks the vehicles from behind.  It should be armed and able to quickly maneuver. 

Now that your vehicles are organized, where do you put all of your stuff?  We have already discussed where maintenance items should be placed.  The main bulk of your medical items should be in a vehicle towards the back of the convoy for the same reasons as the maintenance items.  It is a good idea to keep some medical items in every vehicle; however, the "reinforcement" items should be in the rear.  High powered weapons and optics should be placed in the front and rear vehicles.  Generic items such as water, food, solar equipment, personal items, etc. should be placed in the middle vehicles.  If possible, put high value items in vehicles that have tinted windows to minimize visibility.  Keep some "barter/bribe" items in the front vehicle.  If you are forced to go through an area held by looters, you might be able to pay them off to get through.  For personnel organization, keep the kids in the middle, non-fire/maneuver vehicles.  For those who can shoot, keep them in the fire/maneuver vehicles.  When planning where everyone will sit, if possible, try to keep enough seats empty so that if one vehicle gets disabled, those personnel can get in another vehicle with minimal delay.

Once you have determined your route, organized your vehicles, personnel, and equipment, it is time to rehearse.  Actually taking your vehicles and driving around will be next to impossible, so plan on the next best alternative.  Get a whiteboard/chalkboard or even just a piece of paper, and draw out your vehicles in order.  Make sure you discuss the following: 

- Go over the route and make sure everyone knows what actions will be taken at choke points, intersections, and "danger" areas. 
- Identify who is responsible for different tasks to include a primary and alternate.  For instance, if you have someone who is mechanically proficient, make sure they are driving/riding in the vehicle with the maintenance equipment, and designate an alternate mechanic in another vehicle.  The same applies to the medical vehicle. 
- Who is the overall leader?  If that leader becomes incapacitated, who is in charge?     
- What is your communications plan?  If you are traveling through an intersection, how does the lead vehicle know when the last vehicle has passed through it?  What needs to be identified over the radio and what is not important? 
- Establish check points along your route that can be referenced over the radio as a rally point, re-grouping point, rest point, etc. 
- Determine the distance between each vehicle as you drive.  There needs to be enough space between each vehicle so that there is enough time to stop quickly, maneuver quickly, and avoid having multiple vehicles disabled at once.  The lead vehicle should be several vehicle lengths ahead of the second vehicle so that it can warn the rest of the group and be the only casualty should there be a disabling explosion/trap to take out the lead vehicles. 
- What speed are you going to drive?  Are you going to go as fast as you can for the entire trip, or slow down at different areas?  
- Review different situations and scenarios that could happen during your drive.  Cover medical emergencies, mechanical issues, disabled vehicles, ambush reactions, fire and maneuver actions, loss of communications, and actions to take if the vehicles get split apart.  For example, let's say a tire blows on one of the "slow" vehicles.  You have a spare, but it will take some time to replace the tire.  What do you do?  Do you get off the road you are traveling on and find somewhere to remain out of site?  Do you stop on the side of the road and swap out the tire?  Either way, once the maintenance repair vehicle pulls up next to the vehicle with the flat tire, make sure a fire/maneuver vehicle is right next to it providing security so the people on the ground can get the tire fixed.  This is just one way to deal with this particular scenario.  I am not saying it is the best way.  I am purposely not going into the weeds on every possible event.  It is important to make sure you rehearse and properly execute the best actions to fit your situation.

During rehearsals, it is important to go over the responsibilities of every person in the group.  The passenger in the lead vehicle is one of the most important positions.  He should be constantly watching the road for traps, road blocks, and disabling obstacles.  The passenger in the rear vehicle should be constantly watching the back of the group.  If possible, he should face to the rear with a set of optics so he can see any approach.  Every person in the group should be looking out of their windows and watching for any activity that might potentially be a danger to them.  Look for any groups of people that might be waiting to intercept vehicles.  There might be "scouts" with handheld radios on an overpass watching for upcoming vehicles so they can attack your group at a future point on the road.  I am not going to discuss what to do if you are directly attacked.  If you can, get away from it as quickly and safely as possible.  If it is unavoidable, come up with a plan using your fire/maneuver vehicles and try to overwhelm the enemy with force.  The quicker you show the enemy that you are not backing down and are in fact going to be a hard target, the more likely they will retreat and look for a soft target.      

A final major decision that you will need to make is whether or not you travel by day or by night.  They both have advantages and disadvantages.  One key advantage to traveling by day is visibility.  You will be able to see potential threats from a greater distance than by night.  Unfortunately, this works both ways and you are also more visible to potential attackers.  Traveling at night gives you the advantage of less people potentially out on the roads, and the ability to turn off all of your lights and "disappear" if needed.  Keep in mind that traveling at night without NVGs will require everyone to drive slower, because your visibility is limited to how far you can see with your headlights.

As I said from the beginning, there are multiple ways to do things.  The key is to have a plan, and stick to the plan so you can safely get to your final location.

James,
Thought your readers may be interested in the articles on Converting a 1973-1991 Suburban to Cummins diesel engine. The staff at Diesel Power magazine is publishing a set of articles during the course of this year on the details of converting an Older suburban into what they call the 'Doomsday Diesel Suburban'. The first article linked) covers swapping out the existing powerplant and converting to a Cummins diesel. Regards, - Allen C.

Mr. Rawles;
I have had several customers coming into my store, lately, that have had their windows smashed and their bug out bags taken. I encourage all to have something in their vehicle to survive in place or to get them home, but DON'T ADVERTISE IT by leaving it in plain sight in your vehicle, especially if there is a firearm or ammo inside. Put it in your trunk, floorboard with a dark colored cover or vehicle interior color cover over it, or in an area with tinted windows.

Thieves are starting to get a clue that BOBs or G.O.O.D. packs are high value targets.

Sincerely, - Jim L.

JWR Replies: If your vehicle's window design forces you to leave the contents of the cargo compartment in full public gaze, then camouflage what is there! Put your G.O.O.D. pack or dufflebag inside a cardboard box and prominently mark it to make it sound like something absolutely worthless, such as: "Newspapers - Recycle" or, "Rabbit Bedding Wood Chips", or "TV Guide 2005-2010" That, in my opinion is better than simply putting an opaque cover over your gear, with the end result of making it look like you've tried to conceal something of value. And truly valuable items such as firearms should be well hidden behind interior trim or upholstery, where only the most determined thief will find them.

After reading "Survivors: A Novel of the Coming Collapse", I thought I would share a few experiences with horse ownership. I really enjoyed the book, a real page turner. And I wanted to weigh in on the techniques and experiences outlined in the book concerning horses. Let me first say that what was portrayed in Survivors is indeed real and doable, however the techniques and experiences in the book require a good deal of experience and training.

For the beginning first time horse owner who isn’t sure how tight to cinch a saddle, I would say getting a horse to lie down is a daunting, near impossible task at best. Getting a horse down is difficult because the last thing a horse does before it dies is to lie down, not something they are naturally inclined to do on command. Also, horses are a prey animal and think in those terms, that is, when you can get them to think and not react.
My horse journey started in my mid-teens on my uncle’s horse ranch in northeastern Ohio. He had a slew of them, stallions, brood mares and geldings. His top stallion was a grand national reining champion and was not a horse for the casual or timid rider. He required a firm, experienced hand. My exposure to this level of horsemanship kind of escaped me at the time and looking back I would have made better use of this experience. Fast forward 35 years or so and I regret not taking the opportunity to really learn from the best.

Today, I own three horses, two geldings and a mare. The mare came to us when my wife adopted a wild mustang who was with foal at the time. The foal was born on the farm and on my daughter’s birthday so it is easy to keep track of her age. Two summers ago, we were able to take the mare’s mother to a wild horse sanctuary and set her free as she was unbreakable. By unbreakable, I mean unusually harsh methods of training would have had to be employed to get her to accept a bit and saddle. With her being raised in the wilds of Nevada (Alkali Flat Region) this resulted in her being hopelessly on high alert. We believe in a more humane, natural horsemanship method whereby the horse becomes your partner and a willing participant with will broken but with spirit intact.

Training is a real big issue and should not be skimped on in the beginning. When we realized that our knowledge and experience were woefully inadequate, we sought out info on the internet and found several trainers with programs that you could buy. My two favorites are Clinton Anderson and Chris Cox. (See SurvivalBlog's DVD page.) Both are outstanding and are past Road to the Horse champions. I have been to many Clinton Anderson events and training clinics and his methods are very adaptable to even a green horn with little or no training or experience. Both of these horsemen are the real deal and have proven methods at an affordable price.
A word of caution on choosing a method and trainer as there are many people in the market place who make lots of big claims. Our experience after having been taken advantage of a couple of times as we learned about trainers is results. If you look into the two horsemen above, you will find they are very stingy with their endorsements. They do give them but it is after the new trainer has been under their direct supervision for several years. The internet is full of wannabe “Horse Whisperers” who will take your money and not produce any lasting or tangible results. Just keep in mind that horse owners and trainers are like firearms owners, everyone has their own opinion and way of doing things and are not afraid to tell you.

Today, seven years later, our mare is a top notch, do anything, bomb proof ride that is eager to please. My wife just completed a nine month saddle series for barrel racing, pole bending and hairpin at our local horse club. While she didn’t place high enough to win a saddle, her 14 ribbons out of 27 possible, speaks to my wife’s and the mare’s ability. She is not a barrel racer per se but chose this nine month event to truly develop her skills and relationship with her horse. The journey to get them there was not always an inexpensive, pleasant or easy one. The lesson here is that if you are considering getting into horse ownership, it comes with many hidden challenges. Depending on your level of experience, an older well trained gelding is probably best. In a survival situation, western is the preferred style of tack and riding, in my humble opinion.

The geldings are quite different from each other and the mare. The paint is about 8 years old, beautiful to look at but a handful, we call him “Dennis the Menace”, he’s always in trouble. The quarter horse is 18 years old and you can leave him in the pasture for months on end then decide to saddle him and off you go, no worries. The quarter horsewas a rescue and we got him to keep the paint company as the mare will beat them both to a pulp if pastured together. Hence, you need multiple pastures if you have mixed genders. Stallions are only for the most experienced owners and have their own special requirements. The average 1,100 pound stallion is not to be trifled with under any circumstances. Wrecks happen in a snap; you “will” not “can” be seriously injured or killed in the blink of an eye. Even the best, well trained gelding can spook without warning resulting in injury for the horse or rider or both.

Veterinary care is the next big issue. Just this week Dennis the Menace, who can be very colicky when the weather changes, had a particularly bad episode of colic. A cold front moving through with 20 degree temperature changes can wreak havoc on a horse’s digestive tract, don’t ask why just be aware it is a real phenomenon. We treated his early symptoms ourselves with some Banamine which usually helps him through. After several hours he showed no signs of improvement and a call was put in to the vet. After examining the bowel by hand (yes, long plastic glove and up the rear, armpit deep), intubation and pumping water and meds down the nose, 2 shots, one to sedate him and the other an anti-spasmodic, he was put in a paddock to watch for the rest of the night. And yes they’re like kids, they never get sick at 9 in the morning, it’s always after dark and in the rain. The cost was $285 which was not that much considering that a trip to the university vet hospital for a surgical remedy can run in the thousands. You have to be prepared to make some difficult choices to treat or to put down. These are real issues and can’t be sugar coated. As much as we love Dennis, he is not worth several thousand dollars in veterinary costs for one episode. The mare probably is at this point but I pray we never have to make that decision. You must be prepared for this eventuality.

Tack, grooming and housing are other serious expenses that must be considered when deciding on horse ownership. Tack can be a huge cost to get into; we recommend used tack until you firm up you discipline choice to keep the cost of entry low. There are many good deals to be had on used tack and Craigslist is an excellent resource. If you choose to take the plunge you should choose which avenue of horsemanship you want to travel. Western, English, Western Pleasure, Reining and Dressage are just a few of the different disciplines you can try. In a survival situation your choice should be adaptable to light draft work like pulling a buggy or cultivator or other small implement. If you intend to have a horse pull anything bigger than a small buck board or one or two row cultivator you will need a big draft horse or mule. My neighbor has a big (19 hands, 1,800 lbs) Percheron mule that can really lean into a plow and work all day. When in a crunch situation every extra mouth had better be in a position to carry its weight. Horses are big vacuum cleaners that suck up large amounts of food and resources, plain and simple.

There are many intangibles involved in horse ownership and choosing the right horse. Each discipline requires its own set of tack, temperament and tools. In my way of thinking, horses are like employees; I would rather hire for attitude and train for skill than hire a talented but high maintenance prima donna. When looking at horses for sale, it is important to look at a lot of them as this will give you an idea of what a good temperament is and how to spot it. After you have narrowed down your choices don’t be afraid to show up unannounced or on short notice to make sure no shenanigans are afoot with drugging and such. I have heard on more than one occasion of people getting home with their new horse only to have major problems after the drugs wore off. All reputable sellers should be willing to spring for a vet check when you are ready to get out the checkbook and buy.

It is worth noting that there are over 100,000 unwanted or under-wanted horses in America alone as I type. The BLM manages the Wild Horse and Burro Adoption program. There are many more horse rescues throughout the USA. I would suggest that anyone seriously interested in ownership with the time, skills and energy can find many opportunities to come up to speed very quickly. If you think you will find yourself in need of a horse in a crunch situation, do it now while things are pressure free. Trying to harness Ole Shiloh to get to the General Store after the flag goes up could be a life threatening proposition if you’re not prepared.

In closing, it must be stated that inexperienced riders and green-broke horses “Green on Green” leads to “Black and Blue”. We have the scars to prove it and want to make sure if you are heading into horse ownership you’re forewarned. Go volunteer at a rescue or find someone who will let you muck stalls in exchange for training and riding time. That said, we have had a wonderful and pleasurable journey with our horses. They can be very troublesome at times and make you scratch your head in worry. They can also give you many wonderful times of enjoyment. There is nothing as satisfying as spending the day at an event or on the trail with friends. One last thing, it is very easy to be all gung ho in the beginning, it is also very easy to get sidetracked with other things and end up with an expensive pasture ornament. Horse ownership is a serious commitment and should not be taken lightly. Happy Trails!

A brand new Hummer or Jeep Wrangler, decked out with every available option may sound like the best, most capable vehicle in an emergency situation. The harsh reality is that they could be one of the worst. Don't get me wrong, they are both very nice, with proven track records, but in an emergency, can leave you and your loved ones stranded.

The problem lies with the tremendous amount of electronics needed for the vehicle to operate. The average newer vehicle (especially within the last ten years) has several computers on board that control not only the engine, but also the transmission, the four wheel drive system, brakes, power windows and locks, and even the lights just to name a few. The fact is, computers have been used in vehicles since the early 1980s. The manufacturers have incorporated them in to more and more of the systems for better emissions, fuel economy, drivability, and creature comforts. The average vehicle has more than five computers, operating on their own network (CANS) sharing information back and fourth, making any needed adjustments for a seamless driving experience. A computer controlled engine will not start and run until the computer commands it to do so. The starter, electric fuel pump, electronic fuel injectors, and electronic ignition system are all dependant on the power train control module (PCM) to function. Unlike aircraft, there are no redundant systems in place in the event of a PCM malfunction.  A computer controlled automatic transmission cannot shift until the computer commands it to do so. Without direction, the transmission [indicator] will engage park, neutral, forward and reverse, but will not shift. Before the computer can command a shift to occur it needs to look at various sensors located throughout the vehicle such as, engine speed, vehicle speed, engine load, engine temperature, gas pedal position, selector lever position, input shaft and output shaft speeds, and probably a few more.

With the ever increasing possibility of a terrorist EMP attack or natural blast from our sun, these systems will probably not survive. The computers are not shielded for such an event. Imagine loading your survival gear and family into your bug out vehicle, turning the key, and nothing happens. The starter, fuel injectors, fuel pump, ignition coils, all receive their commands directly from the PCM. Without a working PCM your vehicle is a 3,200 pound paperweight.

There are several options for a practical EMP proof bug out vehicle. Obviously, many older gasoline powered vehicles were EMP proof. They had carburetors for fuel delivery, mechanical (points type) ignition, mechanical engine driven fuel pumps, no electronics what so ever. Automatic transmissions were also mechanically controlled and needed no electrical controls either. Older jeeps and pick-ups are great choices.  They are pretty easy to find, inexpensiveto buy, and repair.  There is also my personal favorite, the old school diesel. The old school diesel has an all mechanical fuel injection system and no computer either. Modern computerized  fuel injected diesels are in the same situation as their gasoline powered cousins. The starter,  fuel pump, glow plugs and injectors are all PCM operated and will not run without a working PCM.

My personal bug out vehicle is a 1983 ford F350 Pick-up 4x4 automatic with a 6.9 diesel. The truck looks like he**, but it’s mechanically perfect. This truck has two 19 gallon fuel tanks, allowing an over 500 mile range, and plenty of room for my family and all of our gear. I had to take care of some minor repairs to make it road ready. New batteries, brakes, filters, belts, hoses, starter, tires and a front end alignment, all told I have about $2,000 invested in a vehicle that can go anywhere no matter what.  I added some custom features as well such as a cap for the bed, auxiliary off road lighting, police siren with PA system, a trailer hitch, and a 12,000 pound winch. Vehicles such as this can be purchased inexpensively, repaired inexpensively, registered  and insured inexpensively too. There are a bunch of vehicles such as this available from most manufacturers. Ford, General Motors, and Dodge all made diesel pick-ups with mechanical fuel injection and no computers all the way into the early 90s. Ford used the 6.9 until the mid 80s before switching to the 7.3. The 7.3 was used up to the early 90s, before switching to the PCM controlled Power Stroke diesel. General Motors was using the 6.5 during the same time period without any computer, and Dodge was using the 5.9 Cummins, all of which were strong, reliable engines easily capable of 300,000 plus miles. A word of caution though, while there was no computer needed for these engines to operate, some were equipped with computers to make certain automatic transmissions operate. Most automatic overdrive transmissions in these trucks were PCM controlled. Find one with a old style 3 speed automatic or manual transmission, and you’ve eliminated that problem as well.

In my opinion, a diesel has more advantages than drawbacks versus a gasoline engine. Diesels are built stronger with larger bearings, and heavier internal components, A diesel can run on many different fuel types such as vegetable oil, animal fat, and bio-diesel which can be home made a hell of a lot easier and safer than home made gasoline. Getting past the smell of the exhaust and the rattle and hum of the engine are small prices to pay for an emergency vehicle that will work in an actual emergency. - Tony G.

I am writing this because I have talked to so many people who believe that there is little they can do to prepare because they have no job.  There is a difference between having a job and working and although I have not had a real job now for over three years, I continue to work six days a week.  I had already been unemployed for almost a year by the time I started reading your books.  Having moved to this small city for a job in finance, I paid cash for an old mobile home in a trailer park rather than rent an apartment.  When I found myself out of work a few years later, I owned the mobile home and my aging sports car free and clear.  I also had a little money in a retirement account and what I had saved from the difference between trailer lot rent and an apartment.

Disadvantages to Riding Out TEOTWAWKI in a Trailer Park:

• No privacy – Several other mobile homes can see everything you bring into the trailer
• More crime – One night I came home to find police officers looking for drugs someone had thrown in my yard while being chased.
• Nowhere to hide – 2” thick walls and no basement or even a block crawlspace
• Nowhere to run – Mobile homes lots are small and there are only more trailers in every direction.
• Public water – Even if mobile homes had gutters, hundred of other people would see the rain barrels.
• No storage  – I had a shed, but no such thing as a cool, dry, place.
• Rented lots – Most leases state the mobile home is security for the rental payments.  It’s like having a mortgage that never pays off.

    
Within every problem lies the seed of opportunity.   Looking for work takes less time than working 60 hours a week.  I qualified for the unemployment which was more than my modest living expenses.  Leaving my employer meant I could move or withdrawal my retirement.  Knowing the withdrawal of my retirement would incur a 20% withholding for taxes and penalties, I opted instead to borrow out some and roll some of it over into a self-directed IRA capable of owning real estate.  This gave me the added benefit of asset protection as retirement plans are generally exempt from bankruptcy or attachment by creditors.  Most people decide where they want to live and then look for properties in that area.  I decided to look for good deals and then evaluate their appropriateness. 

Finding Good Deals in Any Market

• Never deal with just one agent – Search the MLS web site every morning and contact listing agents directly.  I found this by visiting several local realtor pages until I found one of them had embedded it in their site.  Good deals go too fast to involve a whole other firm.
• Watch the auction sites – More rural foreclosures are showing up as the economy worsens
• Tax Sales – Most of these are unimproved, abandoned lots or land.  Make sure you are in a state where you actually get the deed and do not have to wait out the redemption period.
• Ask around – Maybe another prepper will sell you some of their land.  It takes several people to defend a position.

(These tips come from the YouTube video)

It did not take long to hit pay dirt.  One morning the MLS spit out a few acres about an hour from my home.  It was about half the price I had seen for comparable properties so I followed the directions on the MLS page.  It was on a former logging road off a road that dead ends into a hollow near a national forest.  This forms a natural cul de sac where vehicle access to the community can be controlled at one bridge.  I immediately called the listing agent, met with her and the seller and made an offer on behalf of my IRA for full asking price.  The seller had been forced to sell the property as part of a divorce settlement so he listed it with his sister not caring what it brought.  She had listed it for the minimum price her broker allowed and I was the first person to whom she had shown it.  To her credit, she had a list of interested parties by the time she met with me.

I borrowed enough from my retirement account to buy a monster box of silver when it was $16.16 per ounce from what was left in my retirement account after transferring the funds for the real estate purchase.  During the same period that the stock market recovered about 10%, my investment in silver has about doubled.  I have to repay around $100 a month to my own retirement account, but the only consequences of defaulting on this loan would be that the balance would be taxable as income in the year of default.

While the seller was showing me the property lines, he made a comment about the disagreeable hermit that has the only other residence on this gated former logging road.  Instead of confronting him about a key to the gate, I left a letter in his mailbox introducing myself and inviting him to lunch.  After lamenting that he would have bought the property for privacy (I can't even see his property line), we became great friends and he willingly handed me the key.  He has been a great resource and informed me that we do not post our properties with no trespassing signs.  Later this may change, but for now I can traverse hundreds of my neighbors acres without worrying about breaking the law.  This being different from the laws in my home state, I confirmed it with the largest land owner adjacent to my retreat.  He is an elderly cattle rancher who works and lives on the other side of the mountain.  One day as I was loading up my truck I heard someone yell 'Hello' which is really rare.  I peered through the trees to find an old man sitting on a stump.  I walked up the gravel road to meet my neighbor.  He had been riding his fence lines on a four-wheeler when it broke down.  I went and got my truck and ferried him back to his side of the mountain.  During the ride I made sure I can use his land. 

It took longer to sell my mobile home than I expected.  I finally got an offer the following winter contingent upon waiting for the buyers tax refund to arrive so he could pay me.  Since I needed the funds from the mobile home to finance building materials, I redeemed the time by meticulously searching Craigslist for things I need.  Here is a partial list of acquisitions:

• 1980s diesel 4 x 4 pickup (I gave my friend a great deal on my sports car to pay for this.)
• Wood/coal stove
• Windows and doors for the cabin
• A couple CB radios and a CB base station
• Rabbit hutches (free for hauling away)
• 2 one year supplies of Emergency Essentials survival food packed in 2008 from a guy who was moving to Mexico
• Food grade water barrels (not the soda pop ones as sugar feeds bacteria)
• Steel 55 gallon barrels with clamp on lids

Because I believed that food inflation would soon come, I also purchased a thousand pounds of various grains during this time which I packed with oxygen absorbers in Mylar lined buckets using dry ice as per the instructions in JWR's book, How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It.  When others were hitting the Black Friday sales for flat screen televisions, I was picking up solar power kits nearly half off.

The pickup truck was one of my first purchases because without it I would not have been able to pick up many of the things I found.  The mountain retreat is so remote that even in the summer I have to shift into 4WD.  Winter snows require tire chains.  By the time I closed on the sale of my trailer, the rear of the retreat property looked like a junkyard with little piles of material covered with camouflage pattern tarps.  Since the cabin site cannot be seen from even the gated former logging road and I built no driveway, everything was perfectly safe.

The thought of moving out of my mobile home and into a tent in the middle of winter was not very attractive.  Just because I can build a debris shelter does not mean I want to spend the winter in one.  Fortunately, I knew a single mother whose maternity leave was running out.  She did not want to put her child in a daycare so we made a deal whereby I stay with the baby during the day in exchange for room and board.  I continue to collect parts and inventory which I store in a rented storage unit a few miles from my retreat property.  During this time someone I knew from high school was arrested on felony charges.  Since he would soon be unable to own firearms, I picked up his entire gun collection complete with ammunition at a very good price.  When winter turned to spring, I was ready to start building on weekends.  The basic structure of the cabin is complete and soon comforts like the solar electric system and hot shower will be finished and I will be able to move on to the outbuildings.  I already found a multi-unit rabbit hutch free for the hauling and I am waiting on a chicken coop to not sell before another party accepts my offer to do the same for them.  Everything I build is mobile so as not to be improvements to the property itself which would violate the terms of my IRA.  Once I move there and start using the retreat, the funds I spent on the land will be considered a distribution from my IRA.  As this will only happen if I do not find another job, the penalties and interest should be offset by my standard deduction and exemption as I will have no other income in the distribution year.  

I continue to look for work in my field, and despite having several interviews I still have no offers.  The last interviewer told me that about a hundred people had applied for the one position.  Hopefully my experiences will help those in similar situations realize that as long as we practice thrift no matter our circumstances, we can turn obstacles into opportunities.  Complaining about setbacks do nothing but waste time better spent progressing toward the goal.  Steady plodding brings success.   

I still remember the conversation.  I was a freshman in high school, but I had the idea of  taking auto mechanics during summer school.  Dad told me that he would always pay for me to take a class because in the end, knowledge can never be taken away from you.  I didn’t take the class. I can’t remember why.  But his statement and philosophy has stayed with me forever.  Although it sounds cheesy, I consider myself a lifelong learner.  So, when I entered the world of prepping, I combined my love of learning with what I know of technology and learned a lot fast.

Information is growing at exponential rates ( see - http://www.emc.com/leadership/digital-universe/expanding-digital-universe.htm).  Lucky for us, that the exponential growth of digital media, includes information that is greatly valuable to preppers.  It used to be that you would have to take a class, buy a book or find someone with knowledge of a skill to learn and grow yourself in the arena of the “lost arts.”  But that is not the case anymore.  Turn on your laptop, get an internet connection and you are well on your way to learning the knowledge behind valuable skills to get you through any crisis that might be headed your way.

Blogs & Readers

There are so many great blogs out in the blogosphere.  And because so many good blogs are linked to each other, in no time, you can have a serious amount of prepping, survival, bushcraft, and homesteading blogs bookmarked in your browser. 

So, the unknowing prepper will start to visit each of these blogs on a regular basis to check for new content and information that will help in the quest to self-sufficiency.  However, traveling from blog to blog on a regular basis will get tiring and old, especially if you don’t find any new articles. The tendency after a while might be to start skipping out on checking your favorite blogs.  But then, you might miss out on some great information.  This is where blog readers come in.

A blog reader or RSS reader, captures the RSS feed from a blog.  The reader then displays every blog or RSS feed in one convenient place.  Blogs that have been updated or shown to be updated show all in one place and allows you to quickly browse through the new topics and select the articles that are truly of interest to you.

There are many readers out there.  But my favorite right now is Google Reader.  It is easy to use and you can get your feeds anywhere you have an internet connection, including your mobile phone.  Check out this link to see a quick video that explains Google Reader - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSPZ2Uu_X3Y .  And, you can visit this link for a short how-to-video on how to use Google Reader - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ltttw5yORv8  NOTE: Google Reader has just been updated.  The video describes the old Google Reader.  However, the new Google Reader functions the same.

If you don’t like Google products, there is a free piece of software that I used before Google.  It is a stand-alone reader that downloads to your desktop.  It is a little dated and doesn’t have all the bells and whistles, but it will keep your anonymity.  The program is called Bottom Feeder. There are also others.  A quick search will point you in the right direction.

I created two videos on blogs for a teacher staff development a while back that might be beneficial on searching for and understanding blogs as well.  Part 1 - http://www.screencast.com/users/tsepulveda/folders/Jing/media/ed7d0e6d-6c1d-4daf-9e6b-d9007e76df8d 

Part 2 - http://www.screencast.com/users/tsepulveda/folders/Jing/media/ee4313ff-3966-4eb8-8538-5ce2ebbc3922

YouTube

I have to admit, there are times I feel like a prepping noob.  But for me, this next technology is a no-brainer!  YouTube is a great place to get informed on specific skills for prepping.  For instance, I didn’t grow up hunting and fishing with my dad, so I don’t even know the first place to start when it comes to skinning an animal or gutting a fish.  But I can see it on Youtube!  I can see it over and over and even ask the author or uploader of the video a question.  The great thing is that many of the people who upload videos to Youtube have the heart of a teacher and choose to do so to help others along.

One video that was very helpful to me was how to use a mylar bag for food storage.  Now, I know that this skill is basic common knowledge for most, but I had never done it.  I easily found articles and even pictures on how to do it, but it wasn’t the same as seeing someone do it right in front of my eyes.  I felt comfortable that I wouldn’t make huge mistakes when my bags finally came in….And I didn’t.

Once you find a great prepping video, take some time to click on the uploader’s name and checkout their “channel.”  They might have a ton of other videos that will help you in your prepping.  For an example, check out Southern Prepper's channel.

Twitter

Some of you might be wondering, “why in the world is Twitter included here!”  Most of you would be right to think this.  I don’t necessarily care to read 140 characters worth of someone telling me their every move.  “I’m at the store #groceries.”  “I’m in the #dairy section.”  “I’m checking out #plastic bags.”  That’s not what Twitter is about.

Twitter is about sharing articles, blogs and other information that you might not have otherwise seen.  For example, let’s say that I’m following @prepperwebsite.  The Prepper Website posts a link to an article on a new blog that I have never heard of before.  The article is great and I realize that the other posts on this blog are very valuable too.  I might add that blog to my Google Reader.

Other information that might be shared might be news that is not being run by the mainstream media.  It is a way of communication that has reshaped how people communicate. 

Another thing you might want to do is to follow a trend or a search word.  Many people who use Twitter include hashtags to their tweets.  A hashtag is a way to set-off a certain term or idea on Twitter.  So if I post something about prepping, I might include the hash tag #prepper in my tweet. 

Go try it!  Go to www.twitter.com and type in #preppertalk in the search box. Try #preparedness, #foodstorage and #survival too!  Try anything that you are interested in.  For something to show up in Google’s search engine takes a few days.  However, the search results in Twitter are real time and you can find new information quickly. 

A word of warning - When you use Twitter in this way, it can be addictive.  You can find yourself searching, linking and reading so much information that you lose track of what you were there for.

Check out this video I did on using Twitter for Lifelong Learning.

Podcasts

Lastly, I will touch on podcasts.  Podcasts are audio posts.  When someone creates a podcast, they upload it for anyone on the internet to listen to.  Most of the time, you can go directly to someone’s web site and listen to the podcast.  However, that means that you have to be at your computer, or at least close to it.  But just like there are blog readers, there are podcast catchers. 

Podcast catchers work exactly the same way as blog readers do.  You have to find the RSS feed and put it in your podcast catcher.  After you do that, the podcast is downloaded directly to your hard drive where you can put it on your Ipod or mp3 player.  Now if you have an Ipod and Itunes, this is a pretty easy setup.  You just have to search for podcasts in your desired field of interest. The podcast will be “placed” or “sync’d” with your Ipod when you connect it.  If you have an mp3 player, it is a matter of going to the download folder and transferring it to your mp3 player, usually a drag and drop feature as most mp3 players are recognized as another portable drive on your computer.

To see an example video of a podcast catcher in action, click here - http://www.screencast.com/t/YWVhODNl .

To download “Juice,” the podcast catcher, go here: http://juicereceiver.sourceforge.net/

To search for podcasts, you can visit - http://www.podcastalley.com/index.php .

Recently, I have left my mp3 player behind for podcasts and just use my smart phone.  I recently upgrade to an android phone and downloaded the App “Beyond Pod.”  I search for my favorite survival podcasts and listen to them on the way to work through my car stereo system.  It is so convenient.

In Closing

To maximize your prepping efforts, you need to be informed.  Information is powerful.  Information is necessary.  And today, information is abundant.  You just need to know where to look. 

One last word, there is a difference between book knowledge and knowledge that is based on experience.  After you find the information that you are searching for, you have to put it into practice.  For instance, all the knowledge of gardening or skinning a rabbit doesn’t mean anything until you get your hands dirty…believe me, I know!

One last last word, a natural outflow of my learning has been my new web site.  I started http://www.prepperwebsite.com two months ago and the response has been great.  I read every article, listen to every podcast and watch every video I link.  I also monitor every web site I link through Google Reader.  The site is a great place to get a varied amount of prepping information in one place.

Jim,
I've seen a few trucks near my home in in Idaho sporting full body paint jobs using a Rhinoliner type application. I didn't get any pictures but here is a link to a photo os a Jeep in Arizona with this job done to it. Seems like a good, durable long term solution for scratches and weather damage. Regards, - Jason M.

JWR Replies: I agree that it is a durable finish and it also is quite flat, which makes it less reflective. Two potential drawbacks that I can see are: 1.) Until this type of "paint" job become more commonplace, it might make your vehicle stand out from the crowd, which could be an OPSEC issue, and 2.) There are very few things in nature other than shadows that are large blobs of black. So don't expect any camouflage advantages if you use a black bed liner coating. (Most bed liner companies still offer only black coatings.) But the good news is that more and more companies are starting to offer color options. Flat brown would be great, almost anywhere!

Hi Jim,
I continue to be amused by prepper concerns for the vulnerability of their vehicles to an EMP event.  I have followed the EMP issue closely ever since becoming a NBC qualified officer in the service, many years ago.  In 1984, by accident and through a military book-of-the-month club I received a copy of Warday and the Journey Onwards, by Whitley Strieber. Reading the book was another wake up call for me, another step towards becoming a full-fledged prepper.  A few years later, through my wife, I met a friend who was a top expert on EMP.  He explained about the various wave forms of EMP and the possible susceptibility of electronics to EMP.  He also detailed that hardening of items was not difficult, but often overlooked by civilian engineers.  He had spent many years helping the military successfully harden gear against EMP.    

Fast forward to 2010: I started listening to EMPAct America on Blog Talk radio where I heard my EMP friend speak, and where I have frequently heard authors like you and William Forstchen speak.  Forstchen of course wrote the book One Second After. In that book the EMP event takes out almost all automobiles instantly and gridlocks the roads, streets and interstates.  This led me to discuss the likelihood of vehicle susceptibility with my EMP friend.  He directed me to the EMP Commission results. (This was a commission set up by the US Congress.)  There I read not only the executive summary, but the full report.  Later I discussed the report with my friend.  He reiterated, (and I quote loosely), “If you are focused on the direct and immediate effects of EMP to your automobile, you may be disappointed and you will have missed the main point.  The effect of an EMP event could be the collapse of interdependent and critical infrastructures, particularly loss of the electric power grid and the resulting inability to get fuel for your car.  Only a few cars will stop right away.  But they will soon have no purpose if there is no fuel.”  

So the all the details are laid out in the commission report, for the following areas, Infrastructure Commonalities (including SCADA systems), Electric Power, Telecommunications, Banking and Finance, Petroleum and Natural Gas, Transportation, Food Infrastructure, Water Infrastructure, Emergency Services, Space Systems, and Government.  But I want to quote the automobile transportation section in detail from page 115:

“We tested a sample of 37 cars in an EMP simulation laboratory, with automobile vintages
ranging from 1986 through 2002. Automobiles of these vintages include extensive
electronics and represent a significant fraction of automobiles on the road today. The
testing was conducted by exposing running and non-running automobiles to sequentially
increasing EMP field intensities. If anomalous response (either temporary or permanent)
was observed, the testing of that particular automobile was stopped. If no anomalous
response was observed, the testing was continued up to the field intensity limits of the
simulation capability (approximately 50 kV/m).
Automobiles were subjected to EMP environments under both engine turned off and
engine turned on conditions. No effects were subsequently observed in those automobiles
that were not turned on during EMP exposure. The most serious effect observed on running
automobiles was that the motors in three cars stopped at field strengths of approximately
30 kV/m or above. In an actual EMP exposure, these vehicles would glide to a
stop and require the driver to restart them. Electronics in the dashboard of one automobile
were damaged and required repair. Other effects were relatively minor. Twenty-five
automobiles exhibited malfunctions that could be considered only a nuisance (e.g.,
blinking dashboard lights) and did not require driver intervention to correct. Eight of the
37 cars tested did not exhibit any anomalous response.
Based on these test results, we expect few automobile effects at EMP field levels below
25 kV/m. Approximately 10 percent or more of the automobiles exposed to higher field
levels may experience serious EMP effects, including engine stall, that require driver
intervention to correct. We further expect that at least two out of three automobiles on the
road will manifest some nuisance response at these higher field levels. The serious malfunctions
could trigger car crashes on U.S. highways; the nuisance malfunctions could exacerbate
this condition. The ultimate result of automobile EMP exposure could be triggered
crashes that damage many more vehicles than are damaged by the EMP, the consequent
loss of life, and multiple injuries.”

So the bottom line is, yes you should be concerned about an EMP event, either naturally occurring or nuclear induced, but not because it is going to instantly make your car stop running.  Take time to read the whole Commission report and you will know where the real dangers lie.  Thanks, - W.J.

I recently finished JWR's latest novel "Survivors"and have read it predecessor, "Patriots". I have realized that there were some things that the retreat owner could do to better prepare the land to prevent or slow down vehicles from entering your ground. Although the offsetting of obstacles works well in funneling, this does not stop vehicles. I think of my own retreat and how I plan on defending it, I thought back to my former MOS when I was in the service. Although I can block the roads into the farms that sit on the lane, there is a power line cut right through the ground that could be driven on and breech the security of all the homes on the lane. Therefore I will explain a few tip on how to prevent or slow down wheeled vehicles.

I am a former Marine Combat Engineer. I mainly ran heavy equipment; however I did some cross training with explosives. Now leaving the explosives out of the scenario I do have some good ideas to either funnel or in some cases totally keep the vehicles from entering your land and forcing bandits onto foot which gives you the advantage.  Keep in mind that I live in a northeast and I am accustomed to most rural land is at least partially wooded which in most cases will suffice for keeping mobilized bandits off. Now we will go into a few things that you can use to accomplish this task.

• Tools needed: Spade Shovel, post hole digger, ax, sledge hammer, and chainsaw. If you are lucky enough to own or have access to a backhoe, or small bulldozer these things can be completed with little or no problems. However, if you have to do it by hand it will be back breaking and time consuming so hopefully you are in good shape. You will sweat.

The first things I would use we called “Tank Ditches” in the Marine Corps. A tank ditch is a ditch that is dug across a point that you would anticipate the approach of an armored vehicle. The idea of a tank ditch is to expose the belly of the tank or armored vehicle (which is the weakest portion of armor).  Now this concept could be used for any kind of vehicle. It would expose the underbelly of any vehicle. The steps in creating the tank ditch are as follows:

1. Find the area of likely approach, measure off the ditch; it could be the entire length of road or just a portion.
2. You dig out the ditch as deep as you want, piling the dirt on the oncoming side of the ditch to create a ramp for the approaching vehicle. If you have the means you can wet the dirt down in order to make the pile heavier.

The vehicle will attempt to drive over the pile and get stuck, get over it and nosedive into the ditch, or expose itself to weakness that the defenders can exploit. Or the vehicle will stop and the bandits will dismount, this will expose the bandits to small fire.

The next thing that I would like to talk about is what we called “Dragon's Teeth". If anyone has ever seen an old Civil War movie the forts would often do this at the peak of the fort to make it harder for the troops to get over the wall. These “teeth” should be sticking out of the ground at least four feet high.  You can use these to block dirt roads, fields, or can be used to funnel things where you want them to go, AKA “killing fields”.

• Cut these logs to a rough length of about 8 feet long,
• Cut to a point at one end, and leave one end flat.
•  The flat end was buried into the ground about three to four feet deep at a 45 degree angle. The reason for a 45 degree angle provides extra strength and makes it nearly impossible to breach by ramming them.

I actually seen an M1 Abrams tank unable to breech a series of four dragon’s teeth in a row (well it could be that they didn’t want to). You should always place three to four in a row, making a partial wall, leave 2-3 foot between each one so you don’t create a log wall for people to hide behind. Make sure that you cannot drive through them.

The next obstacle could be what we called “Ant Hills”; these are exactly what they sound like an ant hill. Picture an ant hill out in the forest, a large mound of dirt. These should be piled high and off set, again to funnel wheeled vehicles where you want them to go. These piles of dirt should be large enough that you would not want to attempt to drive a vehicle through them so one would want to go around them.

Another obstacle does require some fencing wire or barbed wire. We called this tangle foot. It was mainly a deterrent that slows down troops as they move through areas that do not offer any other obstacles. Think of high school football practice when you had to high knee through tire. Well this is the same concept.

1. Cut wood posts roughly three feet long.
2. Pound stakes into the ground about 18 inches. Place them in rows about 12-18 inches apart. If you make them to big you can easily navigate between the wires.
3. Place them in a pattern that is much like a Suduku box; make the area as wide and as long as you want.
4. Take the wire and begin stringing it from post to post as one continuous wire. Wrap the wire around each post to create a jumble of wire. Most like a square spider web.

Think of the effect that this has on bandits on foot trying to maneuver through this area that you have just pushed them too. No shooting and moving there, they will be too busy trying to navigate the wire and not fall over. Now if someone would enter your tangle foot, think fish in a barrel. Deep breath and slow and steady trigger pull. 

Finally I would like to pull a little from not only your book, and using what you may have on hand to use as road blocks and obstacles and just extra protection. If you have tractor trailer back, old cars, you could flatten the tires, and offset and stagger them on roads and bridges to create any oncoming vehicle from gaining speed and just driving through your roadblocks. These would require a driver to drive in an S-shape to get through the obstacle. You can build planter boxes all around your home or retreat and in a pinch you can use them as fighting positions leave them full of dirt and them become a natural round stopper. You build them roughly three and a half feet high out of brick and fill will dirt, plant flower, spices, vegetables, or anything that you want and you can instantly have a fighting position all around your home. As a bonus you can eat what you plant there. By clearing out natural hides and blind spots around the property in order to have a better view of the ground and any avenues of approach. There are many small things you can do in order to prepare you property prior to the fall.

Remember that these ideas may not be right for your retreat. They can be used in conjunction with anything else that you may have read on the SurvivalBlog or anywhere else. None of these ideas are full proof and remember that nothing can stop a force that is hell bent on getting their hands on what you have short of a well placed 7.62mm NATO round. You and your family’s safety should be the number one priority when the SHTF. Taking the proper steps to defend what you have will prolong everyone’s life. If you are well stocked and ready for anything be ready to defend it because someone else does not have and when people get hungry people will do anything. Mix and match these ideas to create a well defendable avenue of approach. When used together these obstacles can be used to slow down and sometime totally stop an oncoming mobilized unit. I have seen it work when we showed foreign governments what we to stop troop movements. My final two points will be this; draw a diagram of how you want to set up your funnels to best make a defendable position, try out different ways on paper, these positions will become semi-permanent and hard to move once in. Lastly to wrap it all up. Be sure to leave yourself an avenue of escape. Even the best laid plans and retreats can be overrun by sheer numbers and without an escape route you will die!

Mr. Rawles;
Greetings from a new fan.  On the subject of horses, I can recommend the video from Pat Parelli titled The Seven Games. I have ridden horses for years but when I bought my own horse I got a few Parelli lessons from the owner.  It completely changed 30 years horsemanship almost overnight.  My horse is my friend now and much easier to train since I know how to communicate with him.  The cd's and the Parelli method is great.  

Yes, horses do require your time they are not an ATV that can be parked and left behind.  They are not for everyone, but they can do things that an ATV can never do.  Keep up the good work. - Rodney W.

JWR Replies: Thanks for that recommendation. And by the way, a friend recommended the Mike Bridges horse training clinics.  Mike is not the best known clinician but he's one of the best teachers and horsemen in the nation. He's based in Halfway, Oregon, but does clinics all around the country.

Jim,
The cover art on your latest novel prompts these comments about horses.  There may be  folks who are thinking that in the future horse power would be a viable alternative for transportation, agricultural, and other uses.   It can be.  But you need to be aware that horses are not just hairy vehicles, and they don’t come with an owner’s manual.  They are thinking, feeling, decision-making animals.  And regardless of how well trained they may be when you get them they will quickly settle, for better or worse, at your level of knowledge and experience.  If you don’t know what you’re doing you may fairly quickly wind up with a horse that is useless, dangerous, or both.

If you’re considering the use of horses in the future it would be prudent to learn all you can now.  And that means hands on learning.  Book learning won’t do.   The only thing that will keep you safe is knowledge and awareness.

A lifetime isn’t long enough to learn all there is to know about horsemanship, but it’s a start.  Find a competent teacher, start now, and enjoy the experience. - Rick S.

JWR Replies: Thanks for your letter. A good deal of the story in "Survivors" has to do with the lead character getting to know and work with his horse, an excellent gelding named Prieto. Yes, I agree that there is a steep learning curve.  For newbies, I recommend that they learn from a pro, and that they spend a lot of time around horses before they ever even consider buying one to bring into their family. (Yes, I do mean family.) Clinton Anderson's excellent series of instructional DVDs (such as Downunder Horsemanship- Gaining Respect and Control on the Ground) are a great start, but there is no substitute for lots of hands-on time. Frankly, most people's temperaments are better suited to buying an ATV than a horse.

Mr. Rawles,
I just purchased the Kindle version of "Survivors" and can't wait to start!  But that's not what I'm writing about.  There's a very interesting video titled Kelly McCann's Crucible High-Risk Environment Training Volume Four: Mission-Essential Off-Road Driving, published by Paladin Press.  In a nutshell, the video is geared towards security contractors operating overseas, but contains valuable information for anyone (emergency responders, sheriff's deputies, etc.) who may need to use off-road vehicles under emergency circumstances (like preppers) without destroying their rig.

The video starts off by explaining the various setups you may find on commercially available SUVs (solid axle versus independent suspension, traction lockers, et. al.), and the type of gear that one should have for recovering a vehicle that gets stuck off-road.  The then get into the nuts and bolts of negotiating terrain without getting stuck or damaging your vehicle, and how to recover a vehicle that has become stuck.  In all, I found the video very informative, and I believe it has a good deal of information that would prove useful to your readers as well. 

There's much more content than my little description here can convey, but you get the gist.  The material is presented by former Marines who've operated overseas, both with the military and as private contractors, and they convey their information in a straightforward manner, warts and all; their conversation is laced with casual profanity and repetitive expressions ("bottom line" in particular) but the information is top notch. 

Also of note, is that you'd rather "rent before you buy", then Gold Star Video has pretty much the complete Kelly McCann/Jim Grover combatives library.  They function something like Netflix for martial arts videos, with the option to purchase if you like them.  Many of us are on a limited budget, and their service allows you to rent a video series for a month at $9.99 per video to give them a "test run" before purchasing.  Definitely worth a look, at least.

Mr. Rawles:
Here is a quote from a recent news story: "A 67-year-old man found alive days after his car plunged 200 feet off a mountain road built a makeshift camp, ate leaves and drank water from a nearby creek to survive, his daughter said."

Interesting. "Non Life Threatening Injuries"! 

Lessons learned:

(1) Leave a trail of breadcrumbs? Let folks know where you're going, your route, and when to expect a check-in. This lesson is oft repeated in stories of fatalities.

(2) Put some water in your car's backseat. Hook the seat belt to it so it doesn't become a missile. Plan for a few days; if not a week.

(3) Communications? Combine an idea from a commercial — a weather balloon on a tether. Signal fire. Air horn. FRS or CB radio. Whistle. 

(4) Society needs to engineer roads that can detect accidents or cars leaving the roadway. I remember in the 1960s a Nevada State Trooper told me that the road crews would create a small ridge of dirt a little off the road so that they could see when a driver fell asleep and drifted off the road. He said they found people a considerable distance away from the road. That seems like a cheap way to detect such accidents.

(5) As always, awareness. It's a dangerous world out there for us very fragile humans.

Now imagine this happening in The End Of The World As We Know It (TEOTWAWKI). Scary!

Regards, - F.J.

In my prepping, one of the hardest things for me currently was the bug out vehicle (BOV), so as with any prepping activity I made my list. I first made my list for a “normal” BOV; 4x4, diesel, four doors, trailer hitch front and back, winch front and back, spare rims and tires, and enough storage for our stuff. Since we currently do not have a retreat location, we would have to be able to carry a large amount of supplies and equipment to the location we will be hunkering down at. Continuing the thought process I decided we would need an enclosed trailer. We have a small gas SUV, so we could use it as well. The reality of the situation grew, and without a retreat we would really have to plan on what we would and would not bring. Just my family would be three vehicles, two trailers, 7 people, and a years’ worth of supplies. The logistics did not add up. Talking to my wife, whom I am blessed with as she is a prepper as well, we began to look into motor homes. So again I made a list; 4x4, diesel, front and back door, trailer hitch front and back, winch front and back, spare rims and tires, and enough storage for our stuff. On a hot Saturday we set out on a tour of the used recreational vehicle (RV) lots. I was quiet unimpressed by the offerings. First motor homes are cheap in their construction with thin walls, cheap running gear and many have poor engine choices. At one of the location in the back they had an old school bus; someone had “converted” to a motor home. It was very poor workmanship, but it really got my mind clicking, and home I went to scour the internet. I was amazed at the expected services life of a school bus, 15 to 20 years before any major servicing; look at the average 20 year old RV and then a bus which would you rather have? They are made of steel, built on a truck frame, and the safety regulations are through the roof as opposed to a motor home. I thought about when tornados strike and they show the school yards; buses maybe thrown all over the place but they still look like buses. My mind was made up; I set out on the adventure of a life time I expect only to be exceeded by the craziness of bugging out.

There are a lot of forums out there that were very helpful, but none geared towards the BOV. So I had to blend the great information out there with the reality of the vehicles use, and my wife always reminding me that until its ultimate goal we can use it for fun. After tons of questions on the forums, reading, and research I decided on a mid-1990s, flat nose, Bluebird TC2000 front engine, with 90,000 miles. It was an ex-school bus, with awesome service records, and was sold only because of budget cuts! With a front engine flat nosed bus I can work on the engine from the inside of the bus, giving me some protection in a heated event. The bus was a 13-window bus, about 43 foot long bumper to bumper with a usable interior space of 39.5 x7.5 feet and roof height of 6.25 feet. The only thing it lacked was four wheel drive. I found several companies that can convert the "Big Bird", even though the cost would be as much as I paid for the bus and extra engine and transmission. I decided this would be the last thing I did to her; I figured since she has 20” of ground clearance, and tons of torque, we would be okay without it. It has a 5.9 Cummins diesel in it with an automatic Allison Transmission. A lot of people had issues with this engine claiming that it is under- powered. But after doing some research most of these claims were unfounded. This engine also is so common that I can go to the local auto parts store to get anything for it. And a used engine can be picked up for under $1,000--which I did within a month of the purchase of the bus. The transmission was the same, although finding a used one in good shape was little harder and took three months. I did a little research and found a mechanic that contracted to a large freight line. I spoke with him over a few weeks and worked a deal from him to rebuild the engine with my help, he also recommended a transmission guy who was a retired vet that worked on tanks in the army. The deal was to rebuild the second hand ones, install them and rebuild the pulled ones for storage. I know if I had to bug out I probably could bring them, but if the TEOTWAWKI holds off for a few years, and our gold and silver continues to increase in value we should have a retreat in two to three years.

Let the fun begin. I luckily did not have to strip the seats out, since I bought from a used school bus lot, they knocked $1,000 off if they got to keep the seats; however I did have to strip the rubber floor, this was a 30+ hours of labor endeavor. Once all the floors were stripped I was lucky to find no major rust, just some minor surface rust that a wire brush took care of. I sealed and primed the floor with a RustOleum industrial product. The walls were insulated with 2 inches of fire-resistant foam board giving me an R value of 15. I sheeted over some of the windows, and left the stock windows intact in the rest. The floor was covered ½ inch fire resistant foam and ¼ inch water resistant subfloor. At this point I had a blank slate. I had already worked through all of the designs in Google sketch-up, and was ready to go. I first did some rough framing in both wood and metal, being sure to mount everything securely and with some kind of adhesive between everything for both added bonding purposes and to help eliminate as many buzzes as I can. The framing went pretty fast. In the back of the bus I built a master suite, that included a murphy bed electrical panels, plenty of storage and floor access to both the 60 gallon stock diesel tank and the 100 gallon aftermarket tank. Next was a set of bunk beds; I installed ¼ inch hardened steel around the bunks giving us a small “safe room” when the bunk doors are closed. Following the bunk is the head which included a macerating toilet has an electric pump as well as a manual handle, and small 30x24 inch bath tube. Then the galley, were I installed a tankless hot water heater a diesel marine stove, and a 12v/120v refrigerator. Finally the salon which had two couches on either side of the bus and 60 gallon water tanks under each. I also installed three seat belts on each side.

With every system on the bus I tried to ensure there was a backup. On each side of the salon behind each water tank I installed a water pump and accumulator, which helps with water pressure. Both of these are wired and plumbed independent of each other only joining and the electrical box and the main water line. Both water tanks can be filled from access ports on either side of the bus. Hot water is supplied by either a tank-less hot water heater, or through water coils in the diesel stove. A simple valve and flip of a breaker chooses which heating source I use. The 12 volt system is anchored by 3,000 amp hours of batteries setup in three banks throughout the bus to distribute the weight. The batteries are absorbed glass mat (AGM) and again after doing the research I felt these would be the best for my application. They are managed and maintained by a charge control unit, of which I have two in place with a manual switch gear in between to choose which one is used, and two spare ones in the stock. On the roof I have 1,500 watts of flexible PV-panels. I have a dual pole high output alternator, running one pole to the engine battery bank, and one pole to the charge controller. The running battery bank also has a battery isolator installed with another line to the charge controller. Finally I have another switch gear in place allowing the engine to be cranked off of the salon battery bank if needed. All 12v equipment runs through a breaker box instead of fuses allowing me to stock less. Each wire run has a spare pair of wires in case one melts or breaks I only have to re-terminate to the spare pair. All lights are LED, both inside and out. I removed the old flashing lights and installed 3 million candle watt spot lights both front and back for a total of 12 million candle watts pointing each way. I figure worst case I could cook with these bad boys! The 120 volt system was kept to a minimum. It powers the two AC units I installed on the roof between the PVs, the tankless hot water heater, optionally the fridge, a few outlets throughout the bus and the 32 inch LED television at the front… I know but I had to do it. Under the back of the bus I mounted a 3,000 watt diesel generator/welder and a 7,500 watt quiet Onan diesel generator on opposite sides. They are both wired to a Tripp Lite 3,000 watt inverter that with burst to 6,500 watt if needed. The inverter has two inputs allowing me to connect both generators without a relay or switch. I purchased a spare inverter since this is one of the few single points of failures. I do plan on wiring it in with another switch gear in place; I just haven’t got to it yet. The inverter also acts as battery charger and a UPS for the whole system 120v system when you are running on it. The fuel lines for both generators and the diesel stove are plumbed off of the 100 gallon auxiliary tank. There is no hard connection between the stock 60 gallon road tank and the 100 gallon auxiliary tank so I can run non-road diesel in the auxiliary tank, saving a little money; and if the SHTF pumping from the auxiliary into the running tank won’t really be a big issue. Finally I have outside hookups on both sides of the bus. With these I can pull or push power. We lost power at our house when a pole was knocked down by a car. I used the box I installed on the house to hook the BOV up, flipped the main off, and powered our deep freeze, a fridge, a small air conditioning unit, and our television for 14 hours with no problem!

I also installed a motor home style security camera system. While driving it eliminates any blind spots, and when parked, it gives me a 360 degree view around the bus day or night.
Under the bus I have a 60 gallon black water tank and a 60 gallon gray water tank. I can dump either tank from either side of the bus. I have installed macerator pumps as well to help clear out the tanks a little easier. Down both sides, in-between front and back tires, I installed under the cab tool boxes like the ones big rigs put under their cabs. These are for both storage and access to needed equipment. I have installed a 100 foot reel 120v extension cord, I taped off of the air system and installed a 50 foot air hose reel, and finally I have installed a small shop-vac and a small air compressor also tied into the air system as backup in case the air brake system’s compressor goes out. The rest of storage is for tools and equipment use outside of the bus.

On the roof I had a rack made at a local welding fabrication shop to store two spare tires mounted on rims. This installs on the back of the roof, and allows me to “easily” get them off and on. A pulley system you utilize the buses winches is in the future for the roof of the bus. I did it once to test without the winches, and it took me and a come-a-long a little too long. A small collapsible ladder is attached to back as well; it is pad locked on, but can be extended from its mount to get to the roof if need be. The same fab shopped built me a front and back bumper with winch mounts and two inch receivers. They both have 12 inches of walking space as well as louvers over the radiator up front. The winches mounted are 15,000 lb winches front and back for a total of four and 100 feet of cable each. I should be able to get myself out of most anything with this setup, from pushing a few cars out of the way to pulling myself out of the mud, if I have something to tie on to.
We prepped the outside of the body and used a roll on truck bed liner product in desert tan. I left the roof white to try and keep the temperature down some.

Building the inside partitions and trim myself allowed me to create multiple hiding places for "just in case" items. These include a 12 gauge over the door, a Glock on either side of the bed, and Taurus Judge by the driver's seat. Unless you knew where they were you would never find them.

While we were installing the rebuilt engine and transmission we also completely re-did the brake system, this is when I installed the small pancake compress as a backup. We also went through the suspension replacing the springs and a few other worn out items. I thought about installing air bags, but was warned against it through multiple sources; I also figured it was one more thing to go wrong.

One of the biggest pains was getting the title converted from a private bus to a motor home, so that I would not need a special license. I had to get a weight certificate proving it weighs less than 26,000 lbs., pictures of the inside to prove it seats less than 14, I had to have insurance, which meant I had to get a temporary commercial insurance account (ouch), take all this to the DPS office along with the regulations printed out from the [state] DPS web site, and argue with them for hours until they did what the laws of the state say. Then I canceled the commercial insurance, and they “allowed” me to credit the extra to a new motor home policy.

The completed BOV, as we now call her, gets 10-12 miles to the gallon, weighs just shy of 25,000 lbs. (dry), and tows a fully loaded 9,500 lbs. trailer with no problems. The goal was to create a vehicle that would be self-sufficient for at least 30 days, be able to carry my family and supplies, and get us out of Dodge! It is just an added bonus that it is a blast for us almost every weekend to head out and go somewhere new and fun! We have taken 17 day adventures, never having to hook up to shore power or refuel. With our stored jerry cans, and some rationing we have no doubt we could make it 30+ days. Since the build started I have also purchased an older dodge pickup with the same engine and have started to work on a conversion to the same transmission. We have the truck setup to tow behind the bus, and a camper on the back for storage. If we were bugging out we would hook up our 16 foot enclosed trailer to the bus for a total length with tongue of 62 feet (keeping us under the legal limit of 65 ft.), and tow our small gas SUV with the truck.

I know this conversion is not for everyone, and as I said earlier this was the biggest adventure I have ever undertaken. It was a lot of work, and a lot of learning. Now that it is done, my wife was joking that there is half of the cost of our retreat. Even though she is right, I would still not want to be without her.

Letter Re: Ireland Shipwreck Illustrates Some Preparedness Principles

JWR:
This news article: American crew members tell the story of their rescue off West Cork coast illustrates some preparedness principles. There are a lot of lessons in this story:

(1) What will you be wearing [or "everyday carrying"] you when you're tossed into a survival situation?

(2) Experienced sailors caught short. Preparedness mindset? [Preparedness oversights] could be fatal.

(3) In a group willing to help, but can't be seen. Flare pens [should be] in an always-worn survival vest.

(4) Rescued by Gooferment forces standing by. Who pays for that, and all the other, rescues?

(5) What happens when those forces are not standing around waiting?

(6) What happens when you are where those forces are?

(7) I don't own a boat, but this convinces me to get one of those seat belt cutting window smashing tools for each of my cars. Maybe I'll give them as Christmas gifts.

Did I miss any lessons? - FJohn

Jim,
I have used a kayak for a couple years now and find it indispensable. Three years ago my grandfather gave me the very nice gift of a brand new Old Time kayak (a dark green fishing model). He want for me to have something to remember him by as he was on his way out of this life. But I digress.

This kayak has been on numerous fishing trips and river excisions, including a week long float on the Current River. It has never failed me and I have been extremely impressed with it. My dad grew up spending every available moment out doors and had always thought that nothing could beat a John boat for fishing and he didn't believe in kayaks until he tried it out for himself. He then went and purchased two more kayaks for himself. The kayaks, I believe, would be very useful in the case of SHTF. They are very maneuverable and with their shallow draft and ability to carry fairly heavy loads, I seriously consider mine a viable alternative to a land-based vehicle.

One important difference of a kayak to say, a John boat is the size of such a craft. You could easily pull it up under brush to camp on the side of the river. It will also float up the tributaries and creeks as we have here in the Wabash/Ohio River valley. Now I know that anywhere east of the Mississippi River will just not suffice when the SHTF. So I have laid out travel plans involving the waterways to a certain somewhere in Montana. It does involve portaging but with the kayaks having a manageable weight that does not bother me. I have figured that with all gear it would be a tight fit, but with the ability to use the john-boat or construct rafts this is for the most part unimportant. Thanks, - Jacob M.

Jim,
Today's submission on Kayaks as survival vehicles is good but the statement, "Often in a hard shell boat the majority of your effort is spent simply paddling, trying to keep the boat upright!" isn't really accurate. It might be true of some sporty river kayaks but certainly not of modern hard-shell sea kayaks.

A number of years ago I spent three days kayaking among several islands in Puget sound. It was a guided trip and except for one time on a placid river, it was my only time in a kayak.  I found our tandem kayaks remarkably stable in the water. Because of the way their chines are designed, tipping the boat causes greatly increased buoyancy on the "down" side of the boat, keeping it from going over.  As novices we had no trouble remaining upright, even near shore in a squall with 2-to-3 foot breaking waves.

My only real point is that I wouldn't discount a hard kayak for fear of its stability.  Also, I'm not certain how much I want my boat to "move as a living organism" given stories like this.

Unlikely, I know, but I doubt a folding kayak would have fared as well. - Matt R.

 

Sir: I agree with Jan B. that a folding kayak has great possibilities as a survival vehicle.  My own interest in them goes back to a Life magazine cover story from the 50s.  Dr. Hannes Lindemann crossed the Atlantic in a 17' Klepper equipped with makeshift outriggers made from auto inner tubes.  Klepper is the oldest and still the top of the folding kayak line.  Nautiraid, built in France, is similar but less well known.  Both have been used by special ops units around the world.  (Milspec kayaks are available to civilian purchasers.) The main difference between these European kayaks and the current Folbots, which are made in the USA, is the frame.  Folbots are aluminum and plastic.  Kleppers and Nautiraids are wood.  I prefer wood because I can replace broken parts.  YMMV.  Folbots are serviceable entry-level boats.  I believe Feathercraft still offers more refined aluminum-frame kayaks.  Repair kits would include patching materials for the hull and short sections of aluminum  tubing (on both aluminum and wood boats!) to splint broken stringers.

I would suggest buying two identical kayaks, ideally doubles that are fitted for single paddlers.  I currently own a Nautiraid single but plan to purchase a double as soon as I find one I can afford.

Suggested reading:  Complete Folding Kayaker by Ralph Diaz; Alone At Sea - A Doctor's Survival Experiments of Two Atlantic Crossings in a Dugout Canoe and a Folding Kayak by Dr. Hannes Lindemann; Cockleshell Heroes by C. E. Lucas Phillips, (in which WWII British commandos use folding kayaks to attack German ships.) Regards, - Randy in Maine

 

JWR:
With regards to Jann's article on folding kayaks, I would like to mention a kayak design that many people are not aware of. After taking a 4-day class on kayak rolling, I felt that there had to be a better kayak design that didn't force you to sit in one position for hours (which is bad for your back), wasn't so tippy, and had a storage area that didn't make you crawl out of the cockpit to reach it. I wondered if there was a catamaran-type kayak and after a web search found it at http://www.wavewalk.com/.

It allows for many riding positions and is stable enough to stand up in. Two adults and a child can fit in its huge cockpit. It has many times more storage space than any other kayak. It is the best kayak for fishing big fish because a regular kayak can be dragged until the rider paddles to shore to finish reeling. With the Wavewalk's huge cockpit you simply scoot forward which points the nose down and creates drag. People put all kinds of custom attachments on them like umbrellas and motors. As far as survival kayaking goes, I think it's the ultimate!

Respectfully, - Erik M.

The vehicle I am about to describe does not often come immediately to mind when one thinks of a survival vehicle to be of use during troubled times but bear with me.  The vehicle I have in mind requires no fuel, and no mechanical upkeep. Additionally it offers significant stealth mode and is totally silent. If one is in or near an urban setting such as the San Francisco Bay area or Manhattan or Seattle then this survival vehicle will grant one the power to disappear from the crazed urban crowd scene almost immediately.  No, I’m not talking about some new science fiction device and I am not talking about something that will cost an arm and a leg.  What I am proposing as the ultimate survival vehicle is the simple ocean kayak.  This is a vehicle that can be rented easily in any urban setting by the water and the learning curve is neither long nor steep.  Preferably one might want to select a double [aka "tandem"] configuration kayak, even if one were traveling solo.

Right off the top, an ocean-going kayak requires no fuel, no mechanic, no complicated maintenance and it will take you anywhere on the water.  When one considers that almost 70% of this planet’s surface is covered with water and that a large percentage of the world’s major cities sit on coasts and in harbors then an aquatic vehicle begins to seem like a wise choice. Sailboats have the problem of needing wind as well as relatively deep water to float their keels.  Plus sailboats need yearly maintenance and have many things which can and do break. Power boats with their thirst for fuel are simply out of the question.

Specifically I am proposing a double ocean folding kayak.  Yes, a folding kayak.  These are very useful in that you can slip them into a couple of bags and store them in your closet or the trunk of your car and yet they can be assembled and transport you and an impressive stash of survival supplies across vast oceans in a relative safe and secure manner. These are quite possibly the oldest small boat design in history.  They have been transporting people all over the world for thousands of years.  The Russians used kayaks back in the early 1800’s to travel from Alaska down to San Francisco Bay in search of sea otters to trade with China.  In recent times they have been single handedly used to go from Europe to the Caribbean and even from California to Hawaii.  And these were by lone individuals, with no support group.

Two good qualities of a folding “skin” boat, other than the obvious, is that they are flexible on the ocean and will move as a “living” organism as opposed to a hard shell plastic kayak which will just as often tip over.  One can actually “relax” in a folding kayak.  They may not be as fast as a hard shell boat but then, who’s in a hurry? They will provide a very stable platform from which you can fish and or/dive and you can actually sleep in one without worrying about it tipping over.  Often in a hard shell boat the majority of your effort is spent simply paddling, trying to keep the boat upright! And river kayaks are much too small [to carry a useful load] and are simply not designed to travel in a straight line.

I personally began my ocean kayaking experience on San Francisco Bay. This was an excellent environment to learn to use an open water kayak.  As a survival tool an ocean kayak is uniquely fitted to our current needs. A double open water kayak can carry 600+ pounds in people and cargo.  One can use a sail on extended voyages as well as a sea anchor in storms to stabilize the craft.  Most double kayaks have a rudder system so that all of your attention can be focused on straight ahead paddling. In a sense one can view a double kayak as a truly luxurious back packing alternative.  You can carry all the things you could never carry on your back.  Plus, with a salt water desalinator and appropriate fishing gear one is much more self sufficient.  Additionally there are many food “alternatives” which offer a lot of nutrition in a compact space.  Food items such as “Food Tabs”, compressed food bars such as Datrex, Mainstay, S.O.S., as well as MRE meals and freeze dried meals.  And speaking of MRE meals: they often come with a flameless heating source which merely uses water to activate the heat source.  You can warm your MRE  (or freeze dried meals) in the cockpit of your kayak with no fear of fire (these flameless heating kits are also available from Mountain House). And although a salt water desalinator is comparatively expensive, just look at it like the price of a medium grade pistol.  Sell one of  the extra guns and buy all the free fresh water you can use! It’s a bargain.

Another inexpensive tech item which I find to be very handy in a kayak is a solar battery charger ($29 from BePrepared.com).  I can charge four AAA, AA, C or D batteries at a time in just a few hours. So I can have light, music, radio, E-book reader, walkie-talkie, et cetera without having to regularly purchase batteries. Chemical light sticks are also very handy at night for traveling and being able to keep other boats in sight without having to rely on battery powered light sources.

Another food source often overlooked is seaweed.  There are many varieties of seaweed and most, if not all are edible and offer a high source of vitamins.  People from China, Japan and Korea (as well as Ireland) have traveled the world for hundreds, if not thousands of years using seaweed as a prime food source. Some seaweed can be as high as 50% protein and it can be easily farmed. Seaweed is also useful in dressing wounds and using as fertilizer in gardens. And, speaking of food on the water, a fine mesh net (like a nylon stocking) can be used to gather small krill and other very small sources of nutrients.  After all, if it’s good enough for a giant blue whale, it can’t be all bad.

Once society, as we know it, collapses and chaos reigns in urban areas I can see a veritable sea kayaking sub-culture arise.  For approximately $3,000, (the price of a cheap used car), one can get totally outfitted with a two person ocean going kayak. In a kayak one can go where sailboats and larger power boats cannot go.  It is possible to create seaside vegetable ["heirloom variety"] gardens in areas inaccessible by either road or larger boats.  It  would be possible in the near future to cruise from Alaska to Baja on the West Coast and have access to fresh food (and fresh water) on an almost daily basis for free. And if one should choose to stay in an area like SF Bay, there are vast open spaces beneath the city docks and streets that are only accessible by small craft such as kayaks and these “invisible” places offer a secure place to sleep or leave your craft for a limited time while you explore the surface world.

A few years ago, as a test of some of my ideas I went on a six week kayak trip down the inner coast of the Baja Peninsula with three others.  We used only what we carried, had no support system and had a wonderful experience.

Summary of A Plan:

1. Get a folding double ocean kayak such as a Folbot, Greenland II.  They have a yearly substantial sale each November. (Get the expedition model with a sail.)
2. Get a saltwater hand desalinator from West Marine. (Sell a spare gun, if need be).
3. Get a solar battery charger. Don’t forget the rechargeable batteries. ($29 for the solar charger from Emergency Essentials.)
4. Get a vacuum packed 2/3 of an acre worth of varied heirloom vegetable seeds. In this #10 can you get 16 non-hybrid variety of seeds. This should be enough to start gardens in three or four places which will be inaccessible to cars and/or other larger boats. ($43 from Emergency Essentials.)
5. Get a ECTACO Jetbook Mini. It is the only e-book reader that runs on AAA batteries.  I have used mine on a daily basis for 90 days before having to replace the batteries. That way you can carry over 3,000 full length books and/or any other plain text documents with an inexpensive 2 GB SD memory card.
6. Get the coastal charts for the areas you may be traveling through as well as the USGS maps for the adjoining coastal land.
7. Pick up six Midland or Motorola handheld walkie-talkies. Over the ocean they will work for an astonishing distance and will run for hours and hours on AA batteries.
8. Don’t forget your MP-3 player (one that runs on AAA batteries) and make it a rule that ANY electronic device use batteries that can be recharged from your solar recharge unit.

Consider these to be “extras” to be added to your normal “grab and go” and “camping gear”. For additional food items I would highly recommend Emergency Essentials. And for regular “survival gear” I would recommend Major Surplus and Sportsman's Guide.

JWR Adds: For longer distance travel and certainly for any kayaking on the open ocean, I would recommend getting a kayak equipped with outriggers. These add tremendously to the craft's stability.

Mr. Rawles,

I read CentOre's article with great interest and believe he and his group are well on the way to success.  I have a possible solution to what he listed as his greatest issue:

"A more realistic problem in our area involves the numerous one ton, four wheel drive, jacked up trucks.  Our goal for them remains to slow or delay their progress within reasonable shooting distances. "

May I recommend a classic defense that has been in use against infantry and cavalry for centuries and motorized vehicles more recently called the abatis.  I think this fits in perfectly with his setup. - Bumboy

JWR,

I'd like to add just a couple points to the excellent "Lessons from the Road" article by R.W..

One key item that I feel is important is to involve everyone in the planning of your escape route. If you are the primary driver, and end up incapacitated, it is essential one of your other fellow travelers be able to take up the mantle and get the BOV to the BOL. In families, route planning can be a great way to get everyone involved and on-board with the preparations process. It also allows everyone to contribute and point out things a single planner may miss.

Next, I firmly believe for long-distance bugouts, a family or prepper should have a primary route and four secondaries, each ranging out from the primary while taking natural and man-made barriers into account, so as to give enough pre-planned options that the performance of the bug-out does not suffer during the stress of driving the actual event. This is one reason why a good deal of over-the-road trucking and aviation involve a lot of time spent prepping the vehicle and planning the route, so that surprises are minimized and all available resources (such as fuel sources, secure overnight/rest locations, etc) are utilized efficiently.

This is one of the first steps I took at the beginning the preparedness journey, and it was instructive. I was surprised at the difficulty of creating a route that took me away from large and medium-sized cities while not increasing the distance traveled by half. It was easy to create a short and fast route through the cities, or a slow and long one through the country, but finding an intermediate one was more difficult.

Finally, I would second  RW's opinion that slower is safer and more efficient. My relatively new pickup with a few hundred pounds of cargo in the back will get 24mpg on state highways at 60mph, whereas on the interstate at 70mph that fuel economy decreases to 20 m.p.g. or less. That's a big hit in economy for a small gain in speed. Towing a trailer at 65 earns a paltry 14 m.p.g. By taking advantage of an early bug-out and not having to race to your retreat, you can reduce the number of fuel stops and also reduce the total fuel required to reach your destination.

I'll end with a Bible verse: "Pray that your flight will not take place in winter or on the Sabbath." - Matthew 24:20

Regards, - G.R. in Texas

Statistically, driving is one of the most dangerous activities in most of our lives.  Limited supplies, new or dramatically changed surroundings, minimal physical protection and exposure to observation make moving by vehicle the most dangerous phase of many survival plans.    

There has been a great deal of focus on the best ‘Bug out Vehicle’ and proper vehicle gear to use in a survival situation.  Often overlooked are techniques and skills, many of which are completely different than the driving skills we use in our daily driving, necessary for a vehicular bug-out.  Whether you are driving a 5 ton military truck or a Mini-Cooper, the ability to get home after a disaster, or make a successful transition to your Bug out Location will depend on your driving skill, sound decision making and common sense preparation.  

The following are some tips and tactics that I have picked up along the road driving in foreign countries devoid of traffic laws, countries with high terrorist threats, in combat convoys, all manner of weather, and even some dirt track racing.    I have attempted to adapt some of these lessons into workable techniques for common civilian vehicles, and useful in a wide range of survival scenarios from a full ‘Get Out of Dodge’, to a ‘Get Home’,  and in some cases, your daily drive to work.

Pre-Bug Out

Ensuring your vehicle is in proper working order is the first step to a successful vehicular relocation.  Most of us do not normally think of oil changes and tire rotation as ‘prepping’, but tires, belts and hoses that are ‘good enough’ for a daily commute across town could make you a pedestrian on a cross country trip to your retreat.   Knowledge of how to repair common vehicle problems is a critical skill.  For a minimal cost you can purchase a set of belts and hoses. Don’t allow a $6 part to become a single point of failure for your entire survival plan.  Have at least one real spare tire, two is better, and a working jack.

It is not difficult to make regular vehicle maintenance part of your routine.  For instance, I enjoy shooting much more than checking my oil.  Like eating my vegetables before dessert, any time I go to the range I take ten minutes to do some basic checks under the hood first. 

During a Bug Out going back for an item you forgot will not be an option, neither will picking up something at the store on your way out of town.  That is why most packing should be done well in advance.  Similar to a BOB, the use of dedicated storage containers make loading a job that can be completed in a matter of minutes.   (Another advantage of dedicated BOV containers is that a sudden flash of inspiration can be acted on immediately…just put it in the box.)   Quality lockable opaque plastic storage boxes with attached lid are ideal.  I use Gorilla boxes because they are inexpensive and have side handle and can be carried with one hand, but there are plenty of quality products on the market.  Good old lockable military duffle bags are fine for items that are not fragile, such as clothing.   Do not leave anything visible that would attract unwanted attention, such as gas cans, food or weapons.  

Every vehicle in the US Army has a load plan with a sketch of where the key equipment will be stowed.   As you develop your load plan, consider what you will need within reach, items that you won’t need until you get to your destination, and ensure a full 360 degree field of vision.  Try putting all the boxes in your vehicle to make sure they fit and be sure you can get to a spare tire and jack without unloading.   On my first practice load-out I quickly determined that boxes that are too heavy for one person to easily lift save no time.  Based on that experience, I reduced the weight of my boxes, primarily by setting aside some storage bags that will go in the boxes once it is loaded in the vehicle.  My wife can now easily manage the loading in the event I am not available. 

During a briefing before a movement through a particularly high threat area, I received this indispensable piece of advice:  “Your vehicle is your foxhole.  Treat it as such.”  (I was also told, just before departure, that “the route has been pretty quiet.”)  Ensure all loads, internal and external, are secure.  Inexpensive motorcycle tie down straps are more than adequate to secure bins and boxes inside the vehicle.  Police up the trash in the vehicle lest it become projectiles.   Similarly, keeping a clutter free vehicle could save precious time if there is no need to first unload items from the vehicle to make room for critical supplies during your load-out.  

Finally, learn to drive your bug out vehicle, ‘every day’ car, and spouse’s car in all types of weather and road conditions.   When trying to get home from the office after a natural disaster or when you notice a car full of shady characters following you is not the time to begin a voyage of discovery about the capabilities and limitations of your vehicle.    For about $50 you can participate in local Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) events with your own car that will give you a chance to find out what your car can do, and cannot do, in a safe (a route of traffic cones), controlled environment.  It’s educational and a lot of fun.  Next time is snows in your area, take your vehicles out and have some fun in an empty parking lot like you did when you were seventeen.

Fuel

Unless your name is Fred Flintstone, you are going to need fuel to get to your destination.    If you cannot make it to your bug out location (BOL) with a full tank and a few 5 gallon cans of fuel or soft side fuel bladders, it might be time to consider an intermediate BOL, a different vehicle, auxiliary tanks or a fuel cache en route.   Keep in mind, your vehicle will be loaded and possibly have external loads which will decrease your normal mileage. 

A few quick thoughts on the ongoing task of route selection:   Have good maps (more than one) and if possible, test drive your primary and alternate routes in your BOV.   Depending on the internet and cell phone situation, there may be no way to know the specific conditions on your planned route on the day you bug out.  However, if you do not drive major portions of your primary and alternate routes on a regular basis, it is worthwhile to spend a few minutes every couple weeks to check Department of Transportation web sites for states your route crosses on a regular basis to check for major detours or construction.

Driving

During a bug out, get home, or other survival scenario, the goal is to arrive at your destination intact.  Any activity while on the road that does not further the goal of getting to your destination should be avoided.  This is not the time to test the capabilities of the vehicle’s four wheel drive, top speed, or braking.  

I can, without hesitation, say that the most critical factor in safely driving in any environment is maintaining situational awareness.  You would never consider walking through a bad neighborhood listening to your iPod and checking text messages on your phone.   Nor should you drive with your CD player blaring, chatting with passengers and a burrito in your hand.  We all get complacent driving in our day to day driving. It happens.   However,  especially during a survival situation, we should drive like we would walk out of the mall during Christmas season, do not be conspicuous, be courteous, and have a plan for everyone and everything you see. 

It might seem counterintuitive, but slow is the way to go in most survival circumstances.  45-55 miles per hour is the optimum speed for fuel economy and slower speeds allow for more reaction time when encountering unwelcome surprises.  As hard as it might be to drive at a moderate speed while the world is collapsing, the goal is to arrive, not to ‘make good time.’  Obviously, for immediate threats drive as fast as needed to outrun the flood waters, ash cloud, or other fast moving threat.

By way of comparison, during the early years of the Iraq war, coalition convoys would drive at speeds of 50 to 60 MPH.  As Iraqi civilian traffic increased and the IED threat began to take a toll, convoy commanders learned that slowing down to the 35 to 40mph range allowed civilian traffic to clear out ahead of the convoy and vehicle crews were much more successful identifying IEDs, ambushes and other road hazards in time to react.   Several years ago I had the opportunity to drive a support vehicle as part of a Presidential motorcade.  To my surprise, we never went more than 50mph, even on the interstate. 

In addition to giving more time to react to road hazards and better fuel economy, slower is also safer. Since many of us will be driving heavily loaded vehicles, possibly with trailers or cargo on the roof, the handling characteristics of the vehicle may dramatically change.  Those changes become more pronounced at higher speeds.    The ditch cares not if you end up there as the result of a masterfully executed complex ambush or a trailer pulled beyond the recommended speed rating.

We all hope to G.O.O.D. long before the mass exodus, but even that may not prevent us from ending up in heavy traffic, or even normal city traffic.   Just like the school bus driver said, do not stick anything out the window you are not willing to lose.  Same goes for external loads that are not secured.     

In traffic, a good rule of thumb is that you should be able to see the rear tires of the vehicle in front of you to retain the freedom of movement to pull out to the left or right without the need to back up.  To avoid being completely gridlocked, make every effort to stay in the far right lane, or far left if there is a drivable median.  If worse comes to worst, such as an accident ahead or violent confrontation behind, you will have the option to pull around on the shoulder, ditch, yard or median.  If you have been waiting long enough and decide to take a ditch or shoulder, do so with a plan (to the next side street or past the disabled semi), not out of frustration, and always tell your passengers before you make an abrupt movement.

In the event you find yourself traveling cross country or down a trail of unknown quality, go slowly and if possible, have someone walk in front of the vehicle.  Even knee high grass can hide holes, abandoned farm implements, or even old farmhouse foundations capable of destroying the suspension of a HMMWV (oops).    Stay off private land unless you have absolutely no choice.  If you do get into a pasture or field, close every gate you open and stick to the edges of the fields along the fence rows to minimize crop damage.  Be ready with a darn good explanation and sincere apology.

The Crew

Unlike a weekend trip to Grandma’s house, in a survival scenario passengers are not just along for the ride.   Each passenger should have assigned duties and be alert at all times.   Think of everyone in the vehicle in terms of a crew, not only will this take pressure off the driver, it may help passengers focus on a critical tasks rather than what they are leaving behind.

Driver – The primary focus of the driver should be driving.   In our daily lives we often get distracted doing other things instead of keeping our eyes on the road.  In a survival scenario, the driver must be ready to act instantly to debris in the road, overly aggressive and scared drivers, and staying on course.  Because the mental intensity required is so much greater than normal driving, plan to switch drivers or take breaks much more often than you normally would.

Front Passenger- With an unobstructed view and no need to constantly watch the road, the front passenger has the best view of anyone in the vehicle.   This ‘assistant driver’ needs to be alert as the driver and should be scanning off the sides of the road, and as far forward as the eye can see.   This is the person who will identify trouble up ahead and allow the driver time to react.

Rear Passengers-  If rear seat passengers are present, they should be watching the sides of the vehicle and the rear, working the radio, tracking location on the map, taking care of youngsters and anything else they can do to minimize distractions for the driver and assistant driver. 

Just like any other crew, communication is critical.   A simplified form of the communication system used by Army gun truck crews may be useful.  Everyone in the vehicle should receive these simple instructions:  The direction of the vehicle is 12 o’clock.  Say what they see, followed by the direction on the clock and distance.   For example: “Broken down semi truck, 2 o’clock, 400 yards.”   The driver just replies “got it” when he gets a visual. 

As a general rule, I would recommend not having weapons visible, especially weapons sticking out of the window.   In slow moving, congested areas it is possible for someone to simply grab the gun barrel and yank.  People, me included, do not appreciate being ‘flagged’ by someone inadvertently pointing a loaded weapon at my vehicle as they pass by.  A rifle sitting across your lap, just under the edge of the window is sufficient.  To the extent that you can, put right handed shooters on the driver side and lefties on the passenger side.

Halts

Nothing good happens on the side of the road.  Nothing.  Don’t be there. 

Stops will be necessary along the way to rest, eat, refuel, exercise kids, getting physical and mental bearings, and so forth.  If possible, plan stops well in advance, preferably as part of initial route planning and recon.  Because of the mental effort required to drive in a survival situation, stops should be more frequent than normal distance driving.   Avoid the temptation to continue driving to the point of exhaustion, especially if driving alone.  Along with slower motor skills and poor decision making while driving,  when you finally do stop, you will likely go into a much deeper sleep than might be prudent for the threat level.

When making a stop, find a side road and take it to a point where you are out of sight of the main road.  The last thing you want is every passerby to see you pull out fuel cans and fill the tank.  Turn the vehicle around toward the main road before stopping.  If it becomes necessary to leave in a hurry you will be able to quickly get back on the main route rather than pushing further off your route.   Slow down on dirt roads as the dust cloud can be visible for miles.   

Before anyone gets out of the vehicle, take two seconds to do a quick scan immediately around the vehicle, about 5 yards out, followed by a second scan at the 25 yard mark and finally look toward the horizon.   The time to identify threats, downed power lines, stray dogs, large potholes, etc. is before passengers dismount, not after.

If the vehicle can be hidden during a short break all the better, but still keep security out and someone in the driver seat ready to go.   A section of camouflage netting or burlap is helpful to quickly unroll over your vehicle.  If you are using a military camo net, don’t waste time with the poles and spanners for short stops, the time spent would be better used taking care of business and getting back on the move.  If you have to make a hasty departure, you can quickly pull the netting out of the way enough to drive. 

For emergency stops (mechanical, not bladder…those can wait) try to make it to the next turnoff, exit or area where you will be out of danger from passing traffic.  In the unfortunate circumstance of a break down on a major road keep in mind that other drivers are scared, tired and not paying attention.   Immediately post security, but not standing by the side of the road as if trying to flag down help. There is no reason to have your entire group out on the side of the road, especially children.  Have everyone in the vehicle scanning a designated sector and have someone on your team make a note of vehicles that stopped or slowed to observe you.  Since you will be prepped and ready to deal with any mechanical problem, just get it fixed enough to move to an area where you can safely do more extensive repairs.  For example, just put some more water in the radiator and move; replace the hose when you get to a more secure area.

Do not run out of fuel.   Many vehicles are very troublesome to restart if they run dry.  More importantly, why give up all tactical mobility for a very small strategic gain?  Having enough fuel to move your vehicle just a few miles could get you out of a bad situation.   When you realize you will not have enough fuel to make it to your destination start looking for a secure stopping point and then start considering courses of action.  There is a world of difference between not having enough fuel to reach your destination and being stranded with no fuel at a place not of your choosing.

Ambushes

As conditions deteriorate and people become more desperate, any vehicle moving under its own power may become a target for an ambush.  Two types of ambush I want to discuss are ‘route unblocked’ and ‘route blocked’.  There are more complex types, but most would be well beyond the planning and training capabilities of a gang of looters in the initial stages of a societal collapse.

The best case scenario is an ambush that is discovered or strongly indicated (your eagle-eyed assistant driver spots some guys with rifles hanging around the side of the road up ahead), before you are in the kill zone.  Stop immediately and turn around at a high rate of speed.   Start planning an alternate route.  If an alternate route is not an option, get to a secure hide position and try again later keeping in mind that the route is not secure.   

An ambush with the route unblocked is the easiest type of ambush to plan and execute.   The bad guys simply hide and wait for someone to come then start shooting.   If the ambush is not spotted and you suddenly find yourself in the kill zone there is only one option:  press your right foot down as far as it will go and get out of the kill zone as fast you can. 
 
Think of it this way: If there are 10 bad guys, spread out 5 yards apart; they have a road frontage of 50 yards.  Assuming they wait until your vehicle is more or less centered in the group to initiate the ambush and they will continue to semi-accurately engage for another 100 yards after you pass, the kill zone is approximately 150 yards.  Traveling at 55 mph, your vehicle will be in the kill zone for about 5 seconds (granted, those will likely be the longest 5 seconds of your life).   Unless they have a fully automatic weapon and have trained to engage moving targets, you have a decent chance of getting out the other side and a much better chance than stopping in the kill zone.

A blocked route type ambush is generally much easier to identify from a distance.   Thus bends in the road, over a small rise, or in some other location where it is not easily spotted are prime locations for blocked route ambushes.   Be particularly wary of these areas.   If the route is blocked but the vehicles were not being engaged, most military logistics convoy battle drills call for the vehicles to quickly back off and seek an alternate route.  The blockage could be innocent (fallen tree, disabled vehicles), or an abandoned, incomplete or unmanned ambush site.  Take advantage of your good fortune and disappear fast.  We are in the business of getting to our destination, not clearing the roads.
 
The first question for the driver who realizes he is in under fire in a kill zone with the route blocked is whether or not the route is truly blocked.   This is why an understanding of your vehicle capabilities is so critically important.  Branches that are large enough to stop a car might not be an impediment to a large 4x4, a compact car might be able to fit in between obstacles set in the road, or a mid-size SUV might be able to negotiate the ditch around the obstacle.  Next, look at alternate routes to the immediate left or right.  In areas surrounded by pasture or farmland simply heading off the road might be the easiest alternative if your vehicle is off road capable (especially if the ambushers forgot to put an obstacle between themselves and the kill zone). 

If you have no exit routes, the only way out is the way you came in.  Make a U-turn if you have the space, or put it in reverse and floor it (this is why I have chosen not to use a trailer). Your passengers should be generating as much suppressive fire as they can.   If the vehicle is damaged to the extent that it cannot move at all, dismount from the side away from the ambush.   This is truly the worst case scenario.

Keep in mind, unless you are being attacked by a group of bad guys carrying air rifles,  the body panels of a civilian vehicle provide negligible ballistic protection.    If you are expecting a particularly rough trip, Army FM 55-30 Appendix O provides directions for field expedient vehicle hardening for larger trucks.   Smaller vehicles will lose their advantages of acceleration and maneuverability if too much weight is added.  Ballistic blankets are a lightweight, albeit expensive, solution that provides some protection against handgun rounds, shotguns and some smaller rifle rounds. 

Firing from a moving vehicle

Unless you have a fully automatic weapon, preferably on a mount, firing from a moving vehicle traveling more than 20 mph is not particularly accurate or effective for the purpose of hitting a target.   A couple lessons I have learned:  1) It is hard to generate a sufficient volume of fire from a semi-automatic rifle to suppress stationary targets when you are moving at speed.  2) It is next to impossible to aim using iron sights or scope when shooting from a moving vehicle.  3) Hot brass bounces around in vehicles and seems to always find its way down the back of the driver’s shirt.  4) Firing from inside a vehicle is unbelievably loud.  5)  The muzzle blast overpressure can break glass and shatter mirrors if your barrel is not extended well beyond the vehicle. 

Having said all that, my natural reaction is still to shoot back at someone taking shots at me.  So forget about using the sights or scope.  The intent here is not to take precisely aimed shots to hit the bad guys, rather, to send enough bullets close enough to them that they duck their heads for just a few of those seconds that you are going through the kill zone (suppressive fire).   One technique is to old the rifle steady on the door frame with your offhand on top and point shoot, this will keep the weapon from bouncing around and allow you to see the impact of your round. (I HIGHLY recommend mixing in some tracers before a road trip.)   The bullet is traveling laterally at the speed of the vehicle.  Fired from a vehicle traveling 40mph, a 5.56 round at 3000 fps is going to move laterally nearly 12 inches from the point of aim in the 0.016 seconds it takes to get to a target 50 yards away.  (The same holds true for ambushers, they have to lead the target which takes some getting used to.)  If you tilt your rifle slightly so that the ejection port is pointed down it will reduce the amount of hot brass flying around the vehicle interior.  I keep using the term ‘rifle’ for a reason.  Save your pistol ammo.

Final thought; the driver’s job is to drive, with two hands on the wheel.  Hitting the target but rolling the vehicle is still a catastrophic failure.   Drivers drive, shooters shoot.

Convoys

For groups sharing a common BOL or planning to travel in the same direction, a convoy will provide extra protection from threats on the road, additional security at halts, and the comfort of not being alone.  Again, some common Tactics, Techniques and Procedures used in the Iraq and some non-combat areas can be adapted for use during a vehicle convoy during a survival situation.

Before rolling out, ensure that everyone on the convoy knows the route, expected speed, and next two scheduled stops, and a ‘floating rally point’.   A ‘floating rally point’ is simply a designated distance from any point or incident that the convoy will stop and rally.  For instance, if the floating rally point is five miles; after an ambush, breakdown or just gets hopelessly fragmented in traffic, the lead vehicle will continue five miles and stop at the first securable area available; the remaining vehicles are on the lookout for the lead vehicle at the 5 mile mark.  Once all the vehicles are rounded up, the convoy continues on.  This technique gets the convoy to safety, negates the need to establish multiple rally points along the route, and eliminates the guesswork of where the rest of the convoy is going to top.

Depending on the number of vehicles in your convoy, duties can be divided.  Placing your most mechanically inclined person in the rear vehicle allows him or her to assist on any breakdowns without the need to backtrack.  If you have a tow bar or tow strap, place the vehicle with the best towing capability in the rear with your mechanic inside with your first aid person.  Placing the best navigator in front is not a bad idea either.  If you are using radios, the vehicle with the best range should go in the middle.   

If you have three or more vehicles, consider using a scout or ‘rabbit’ vehicle around a mile or one terrain feature ahead of the next vehicle, but within radio range.   This vehicle will be the eyes and ears of the convoy and they should have the best optics with them.  If they see something suspicious, the convoy can take a quick halt while they check it out, or immediately take an alternate route if the route is impassable.   In a combat situation the ‘rabbits’ were the fastest vehicles with the smallest turning radius, but they always had a full complement of radios, weapons and supplies.  In a G.O.O.D. scenario, I imagine that most of the supplies and spare fuel from the ‘rabbit’ would be cross loaded to other vehicles since they would be the first to encounter any ‘official’ check points and could be subject to confiscation of ‘hoarded’ supplies and ‘dangerous’ weapons.

A convoy is only as good as its ability to internally communicate.   Redundant means of communication in each convoy vehicle is the ideal.   Cell phones may be working; then again, they may not.  There are any number of hand-held ‘walk-abouts’ and CB radios on the market, as well as higher end radios available.   Keep radio traffic short and sweet, using the clock method of passing information back and forth. 

Don’t forget to develop a simple code if radio communication goes out, or you have a last minute addition to your convoy that does not have a radio.  Something as simple as single headlight flashes for ‘need to stop soon’ and double flashes for ‘emergency stop’ and briefly using hazard flashers to indicate ‘message received’.  Use what works for you and always keep it simple.  Any vehicle without a radio should be placed between vehicles with radios.

The rules for halts and security are the same, except that there are more people for security, and a larger space requirement at stops.  For a person looking to siphon some gas, the car pulled off on the side of the road with the driver sleeping is a much more inviting target than three vehicles a mile off the road with 360 degree security. 

Plan for the Trip of a Lifetime

The critical link between your current location be it home, work, or wherever, and  your ultimate destination is your transportation plan.  Thoughtful analysis, preparation, and practice, this critical part of many survival plans will go a long way to ensuring you arrive at your destination. The danger of traveling during a survival situation cannot be eliminated, but it can be mitigated.  Happy Motoring!

There have been plenty of essays written on the art of “Bugging Out”, many of them concerning the various vehicles which the authors are fond of for every specific condition which one might face.  In particular, there are several good essays on the use of bicycles as “bug out” vehicles.  This note is going to be a bit different, for I’m not going to even consider the use of a bike as a mode of personal transportation, but rather as a “mule” for transporting one’s kit instead.

There are plenty of bike options out there, and plenty of experts more than happy to discuss with you the pro’s and con’s of each particular style, but from my perspective (at least the one I’m presenting here) such things don’t really matter.  It’s the fact that you have a reliable two-wheeled vehicle which can easily support the weight of several hundred pounds and be pushed with relative ease along paths and trails which would otherwise be available only to the people using their feet as their sole mode of transport.

To really get a feel for just how much weight and what varied cargo can be carried on a bike, I would like to give a few short history lessons.  To begin with, when the bicycle first began to be mass-produced in the later decades of the 19th Century, it gave the working class an enormous boost in personal mobility.  Remember the old song “Bicycle Built for Two”?  Carriages (and more importantly the horses to pull it) were expensive luxuries which only the rich, and those posing as the rich, could afford.  Mass-produced automobiles were just a dream in Karl Benz’s mind, but the bicycle became the affordable transportation for millions, and has continued in that venue for a 125 years.  Even though countries like China and Vietnam have begun to abandon their bicycles for automobiles as their economies improve, they are still a primary mode of transportation in many Third World countries such as India.

During the course of the French wars in Indochina to keep their colonial possessions in the post-World War II period, they came up against the very, very determined forces of the Viet Minh (the direct antecedents of the equally determined Viet Cong and North Vietnamese Army which gave us such grief in our own attempts to subdue the area).  They were a very low-tech army, in complete juxtaposition to the French who were for the time quite high-tech (using primarily American equipment).  In order to remain unseen by the French Army and Air Force which patrolled the main roads, the Viet Minh responded by using the most common vehicle in Vietnam at the time, the bicycle, as their primary mode of transportation.  However, since the established  roads were well patrolled by both French Air and Ground forces, the Viet Minh responded by taking to the jungle trails which crisscrossed the countryside.  They didn’t use the common bicycles to ride, but rather to transport an enormous amount of food and materiel from their safe havens in China to the battlefields of Vietnam.  The best example of this is that during the Siege of Dien Bin Phu in 1954, the Viet Minh managed to transport and supply an entire battery of artillery which was sited in a position which the French military engineers had concluded was impossible to either transport or supply. They did this by using bicycle power to provide 100% of their needs.  Cannon barrels, carriages, wheels, engineer’s tools and an enormous amount of ammunition was moved completely by bicycle, much to the dismay of the embattled French forces in Dien Bin Phu, who suffered mightily from the accurate fire from these guns.  In point of fact, this specific battery was one of the causes of the ultimate defeat of the French forces at Dien Bin Phu, which led to the ultimate defeat of the French Union forces in Indochina, which led to the American involvement in Vietnam.  “For want of a nail”, etc.

The successors to the Viet Minh, the Viet Cong, also were quite adept at using the bicycle as a mode of transporting military equipment, and did so quite successfully throughout the years of war between North and South Vietnam between the partition of Vietnam in 1955 and the conquest of South Vietnam by the North in 1975, though they were able to make use to a greater degree of powered transport vehicles along the Ho Chi Minh Trail.  Nevertheless, the lowly bicycle remained a standard mode of transporting equipment and food though areas with difficult terrain.

What this means for 21st Century Americans is that there is an available, affordable and very low-tech method of moving fairly large amounts of gear over fairly long distances, through fairly rough terrain at a minimum of cost and effort.  If a bike will carry a 200 pound person and 100 pounds of gear, it will carry 300 pounds of gear if you are pushing it.  (This is not to imply that you can in fact push that heavy a bike over all terrain, but it ought to be able to carry it.)  Even if it is only carrying 200 pounds of gear, that’s a good four times what you can be expected to carry on your back, and as much as a good mule can be expected to haul for you over the same sorts of ground.

(Speaking of which, here’s another history lesson. During the 19th Century, the British Army in India expected an Elephant to carry some 800 pounds of baggage, while in the US Army at the same time, General George Crook in his experiments with packing mules while chasing the Apache in Arizona managed to get his mules to carry 300 pounds of gear.  That’s a lot of baggage!  And having spent the past 25 years researching and playing Cavalry in reenactments and films, I have a pretty good understanding of the strengths and weaknesses of equines.  This is one reason why I recommend a bicycle!)

 

One of the very nice things about using a bicycle as a mode of transporting your gear rather than yourself is that you can get away with a much lower tech bike than you might otherwise find acceptable.  Most folks these days in looking for a bicycle for transportation would look for the latest mountain bike, complete with shocks and every bell and whistle and titanium sprocket on the market.  However, it’s not necessary in the least.  If you can’t find a good bike at the local Goodwill [thrift store], you can always just go to Wal-Mart and pick up their old-fashioned one-speed bike for all of about a hundred bucks.   The only modification you should make is to fit an extension to the handle bars so that you don’t have to walk too close to it and bang the back of your calf against the pedal every step of the way.  Make sure that you make it adjustable, so that you can change sides of the bike that you’re walking on depending upon your trail, but other than that, it’s pretty simple.  In a pinch, a shovel handle and some duct tape will do. [ JWR Adds: Installing folding pedals--such as those used on some collapsible bikes--would also help considerably.]

Of course, you’ll probably also want to make up some sort of pannier arrangement of bags to fill with your “BOB” gear, but that can be extraordinarily flexible.  Just strapping a couple of back-packs on either side will do, and you have the option then of ditching the bike and humping one of the back-packs yourself if need be.  On the other hand, if you chose to you can become quite imaginative in how you are going to organize and fit your kit on to a bicycle due to the fact that you’re not intending to actually ride the thing. This gives you a lot more places to carry things, and the ability to stow a lot more of it besides.  You can also somewhat more inconspicuously carry a long-arm (or two) near at hand, but still ready for action.

Among the advantages of using a bike for transporting gear rather than people is that when pushing a bike you can follow trails (or even non-trails) that someone trying to ride a bike isn’t likely to want to traverse with a heavy load.  Likewise, if accosted by malcontents during your travels, it’s significantly easier to drop the bike and go to a defensive mode while standing on your own two feet than it is to do so while mounted on a moving bicycle.  Besides this, you can always use the bike as a temporary cover/concealment if need be (though I don’t recommend it, as your gear probably isn’t going to make very good cover in the long run, but it beats thin air).  Furthermore, if you find that you have to abandon your bicycle for whatever reason, well, then you do so.  Load up the absolute necessities (just grab the BOB and whatever else you can carry from it’s resting place) and it goes from being a bike-borne kit to a back-borne kit.  At least you got whatever other supplies you’re carrying further down the road than you would have just on your back, and probably at a lower cost to your body as well.

An added bonus to this of course is that you can use routes otherwise not available to your road-bound fellow travelers. Overgrown railroad right-of-way, dirt tracks and even game trails are your rightful highways, and though you’re likely going to take up a bit more space going over a trail than a person hoofing it is, it’s not by much. This is one of the arguments against using a single-axle two-wheeled cart with the same carrying capacity as a bike, in that they take up too much room on the trail.  By taking “the road less traveled” you will there-by be able to avoid most of the issues of dealing with your fellow man, a.k.a. “The Golden Horde”.  There are always “issues” that can arise, but the more you can avoid them, the better off you are.  By being off the beaten track (in other words not on the main roads) you are right away avoiding most of the issues of a mass exit from the cities.  There will likely still be plenty of people on foot to deal with, but the chances of them being dangerous (and operating in a pack) is at leased somewhat lessened. 

Last but not least, having a bicycle when you get to your final destination is going to just be a handy thing to have, be it for transportation, setting up a generator, or what have you.  A bike is a pretty darned fancy “low-tech” vehicle, and when they came out 100+ years ago in mass-production, they changed the face of the world.  They still have the capacity to do the same work today and tomorrow, for that matter.

All in all, for someone expecting to have to Get Out Of Dodge on a shoe-string, or is anticipating driving as far as they can and then going on foot the rest of the way to whatever haven they have in mind, using a bike as either a primary or auxiliary mode of transporting their gear can make an enormous amount of sense.  While you are not gaining any speed whatsoever over the other foot traffic, you are gaining a significant amount of carrying capacity.  The difference between 50 and 200+ pounds of kit is enormous, and can mean literally life and death, especially if you’re expecting to be burdened with someone who is otherwise unable to help out with “carrying their own weight” (such as an aging parent/grandparent, or small children).  If they can provide their own locomotion, you can provide the “horsepower” to carry not only your own equipment, but theirs, too.  If you have no such burdens, you can simply carry more and carry it further than you would otherwise be expected to do, and do it over some pretty intimidating terrain as well.   After all, if the Viet Minh could transport and supply an entire Artillery Battery by using nothing but bicycles for the task, then you should be able to use one to get yourself well on your way to your destination.

The use of the simple, old-fashioned bicycle as a mode of carrying your gear is an option which, in my humble opinion, makes an enormous amount of sense. If I’m caught in an urban area in a SHTF scenario, the first thing I’m going to do is plop down a check  (always carry a few spares.  Even if they do cash it eventually, it’s still worth your while to purchase whatever you may need on the spot) on a bike at whatever store I happen to be closest to, and head for home, in the sublime knowledge that if nothing else, my back and feet won’t hurt nearly as much after the first 20 or so miles as they otherwise would if I were carrying my kit all on my person.

Mr. Rawles:
Our young family has some experience with bike trailers and biking with young kids to share.  First, the about the actual trailer, make sure that the hitch can easily switch between bikes.  Another family we bike with occasionally has a trailer that requires a mount be attached to the bike.  We have a Burly bike trailer that we have used for about five years with our three children which will mount on any adult bike.  That allows it to be switched off from adult to adult easily so that no one person gets too tired.  I can vouch that it is well built and will retain your child in the event that it rolls (but still put a helmet on them).  They are rated for 100 lbs. total capacity.  We purchased a used one as well that was converted to a cargo trailer by removing the fabric and putting down some plywood.  It can hold over 200 lbs. of cargo and was much less expensive than buying a cargo specific model.  Having both a place for the kids and the ability to carry supplies greatly extends our radius of travel and in a SHTF scenario, allows us to get supplies and children where they need to be rapidly, regardless of fuel supply.  In a pinch, a conscious adult could sit on the cargo trailer, but still leaves us without a method for hauling an unconscious or feeble adult (maybe a rigged garden trailer?).

Now on to riding with little children.  When our eldest was three we were able to do five mile rides with him.  We had a route that passed things of interest to him and usually stopped at an ice cream shop as a treat.  We encouraged him and occasionally gave him a push but it was almost 100% under his own power.  And this was with training wheels.  When we had our next child we put her in the trailer (one she was big enough) and that also let us carry extra water, snacks etc. so that we could bike more places.  Packing the extra water is important as kids dehydrate easily, and some people dehydrate easier than others.  Now, with three kids, we know that we can get around our rural town in a grid down situation and support our community and family. - K. in Texas.

 

Mr. Rawles,
In light of the several articles the last few days on bicycles, I’d like to suggest a few handy tips I have found for those folks looking to get into it for free or very low cost. I pair this consideration with a few choice images of the subway shutdown in New York a few years ago (December 20th 2005).  An image of a man painfully perched on his daughter’s pink streamer bike riding to work in his three piece business suit was burned forever in my brain and reinforced the need for having cheap reliable transportation. My article is on how to get into it on the cheap.

Bicycles are a superb mode of transportation, and in an emergency situation they really should be a leveraged option in your survival tool belt—if my article can convince you of this, I believe you’ll realize that it sure beats walking!

My wife and I are big yard sale attendees. Yard sales are the gold mine of bike scrounging. I have been given bicycles by folks who had previously removed and sold a part or two from the bike to another buyer. It is easy to replace those parts with little out-of-pocket expense. One time I acquired a Japanese ‘gas pipe’ bike (a Shogun), named such parlance because the frame is non-buted (buting is where the walls of the bike frame are tapered thinner in the middle and thicker at the ends to save weight and increase strength), and if one were to cut the frame in half, cut a bit of old gas pipe in half, then held them end-to-end, they’d look the same. I got that bike for free because it was missing a seat post—the lady at the yard sale was almost apologetic about the bike when I asked about it and she was happy I saved her a trip to the dump. I spent some time and built it into a single speed rig some eight years ago. It is very low-maintenance, has 3M reflective tape across all the various tubing for night safety, fenders for inclement weather, and about a snowball’s chance of ever getting stolen. I love its simplicity and usefulness. I love that I got it for next to nothing (I did later upgrade parts on it, simply due to preference), and I appreciate its simplicity.

Don’t get me wrong here, the wunderbikes they ride in the pros like you see on the Tour de France are engineering marvels. I choose cruddy bikes instead. I used to own a very nice Specialized S-Works Enduro. (Remind me sometime to tell you about the time I showed up on the doorstep of the house ten years ago with that bike. My Memsahib certainly clarified a few points regarding what constituted proper purchases to my newlywed brain on that day.) That bike had all the bells and whistles, but I sold it. I have since awoken to the fact that I can create something with my hands, on the cheap, that I truly am passionate about. I love cheap bikes.

As I previously mentioned, yard sales are very good for picking up old bikes for next to nothing. Most just need a few parts tightened and oiled, the tubes inflated and they are good to go. I have picked up several Specialized and Trek rigs for under $20 which just needed a good washing (use Simple Green degreaser) and some oil on the chain and derailleurs. I make it a point to always ask about certain things at yard sales, and for some odd reason, old bikes are things folks seem to be ashamed of. I am unsure why this is. Old tools go for a fair bit, and old guns too—bikes go for a song.

I would be remiss if I did not mention Sheldon Brown, the king of Internet bicycle retrofitting. His web site is pretty old school (read: simple early 1990s graphics, et cetera) but it really has a ton of helpful information. Have an old odd duck French bike? He has info on it. SheldonBrown.com is his reference library, and it has helped me with plans several times. It is a great resource.

My friends know I am into fixing up old bikes. I’ve traded odd jobs for bikes and bike parts, I’ve done side jobs repairing bikes for people, and my buddies always tell me when they find a deal. Networking about interests will always lead you some interesting contacts. I also believe that God knows us, and if we’ll talk to Him, he will place opportunities in our path. Ask Him to open your eyes, and when the opportunity comes along, take it, and remember to say a prayer of thanks.

I regularly visit the bike shops in my area and try to send business their way. They are helpful in figuring out stuff I am stumped with, and their advice is always free. I have found that kindness gets me a long way (as a general rule, but especially in bike shops); bicycle mechanics will almost always spend a few moments to chat with you about your project. Methinks they find a kindred soul in someone who refurbishes decrepit bikes. The other nice thing about the shop is they usually have a parts bin (read: used take-offs, parts, mostly nothing new or matching) you can poke around in. I always offer money for any parts bin stuff which I find that fit, but I have yet to pay for any of my scrounging.

Another option, somewhat controversial is dumpster diving. Now, before you write it off as an impossibility, it does work. I realize that some states may have ordinances against finding treasures in the trash pile, but I have buddies who have found entire bikes and some very usable parts checking the trash behind their local bike shops. [JWR Adds: Only dumpster dive with permission, and in accordance with state and local laws.]

Now, as to tools, you can pick up a pretty decent Chinese made repair kit off eBay or Amazon for about $130. I got one for Christmas near a decade ago. True, it isn’t as beautiful as a set of blue handled Park Tools, but I have yet to wear out any of my gear. I got a bottom bracket tool, a crank puller, hex wrenches, cone wrenches, chain whip and freewheel/lockring wrench, spoke wrenches, and a bunch of other bike tool stuff. Some of the specialty tools can be bought separately; the more general tools you may already have. My kit has really only let me down thus far on an old 27” (read: pre 700 CC modern road/29” mountain) wheel set—I did not have the right 3-splined tool to take off the screw on freewheel, and I needed a BMX style freewheel mounted. The old stuff requires older tools; standards back in the day were not necessarily adopted across the various manufacturers like they are today. Sometimes it is worth the shop fixing it for you rather than buying a tool you may not ever use again.

My final suggestion is a bike helmet. I know they are not ‘cool’ or hip. I also know most of us of the prepper mentality would not think of ourselves as either of those descriptions. I can tell you I have crashed several times in the past thirty years and each time I was wearing a brain bucket I was grateful I had head protection. Keep your brain safe!

Now, keep in mind, these tips are for the shade tree bike mechanic. I welcome feedback on this from the fine folks who make a living turning a wrench on bicycles—I am always learning and am passionate about making cruddy old bikes into something beautiful and functional. Hopefully you folks can take something from my thoughts here today and add another option to your survival tool belt. Bikes are not just for kids, nor do they have to just be a survival thing you never use. Google Albert Einstein on a bicycle sometime if you need a smile (the picture always elicits a grin from me). Get a bike, ride with your family—you will not regret it.

God Bless you, Avalanche Lily and the kids, - Jay in Utah

About 17 years ago I realized that I could not do all the things that I had done when I was in my 20s. I use to play pick-up basketball for hours, play soccer, stay up way too late, hike lots of miles, and a lot of other things, and not feel too much pain the next day. Well, I’m 47 now and I can barely run or do anything that requires lateral movement like soccer or basketball due to multiple operations on my ankles, knee and back. About the only things that I can do pain-free is swim and ride a bike. I still walk but it is always accompanied by the ever-present arthritis to remind me that I am no longer 25…but I digress. As I said, 17 years ago I decided it would be cool to ride my bicycle across the US. Now, up until this decision, I had never owned a real road bike and had probably never ridden more than 10 miles but I was determined and left the west coast in June of 1995 and rode until I saw the Atlantic Ocean 52 days later. I'll describe some lessons learned during this journey.

I realized I could do anything I put my mind to. I also realized the amazing versatility of bike riding. Not only did I get in phenomenal shape, it also taught me about road ‘survival’ skills. Having spent 20 years in the military, I am pretty sure of myself in regard to surviving in the wild but when I road coast to coast, I became much more road savvy than I had ever been. I learned to listen to the sound of approaching cars from the rear and could tell if they were going to come too close or give me a wide berth.  I also learned how much weight you could easily carry on your bike if you needed to. When I started the trip, my panniers (the bags that hang on your front and rear wheels) carried upwards of 80 pounds of gear. During the trip I slimmed down my load but in a survival situation, when speed is not of the essence, you can store a lot of gear in those panniers. 

I also learned to approach a town with caution and decide on an entry point that gave me options to get out quickly. I never allowed myself to get into a position that only allowed me one way out so that if danger came from that direction, I had other places to go.

I also became very adept at bicycle care and maintenance and could change a flat, put on a new tire, true a bike wheel, tighten spokes (even if one broke), and keep the bike running until I could get to a repair shop. I learned how to ride in a neutral position so that my hands and arms didn’t fall asleep. These are basic skills you should develop now so that the first time you need them is not when the SHTF.  Being proficient in all things related to bike travel is a huge advantage and adds another piece to your survival repertoire.

Although I never used one, I saw several long distance bike riders towing a trailer. This would be a very good essential item in a survival situation.  Let’s say your water source is a couple of miles away and you don’t want to walk and fuel is way too expensive to use the truck. The bike and trailer will get you there faster and transport multiple gallons of water. The ancillary benefit is that you are also in ten times better shape if you are biking regularly than driving a vehicle and the beautiful thing about it is, it’s one of those activities that can be done completely under the radar because training in plain sight is no issue.   Just outfit the family with decent bikes and start riding every weekend! Add some adventure to it and have friends drop you off on a rail-trail path and bike your way home. Pack along food and water and you are building your family’s survival quotient ten-fold.

My first trip across country was brainless to say the least. I simply bought a bike at a local store (a Trek 1220), picked up some gas station maps and traced a route and went for it. I spent the first week in the Mohave Desert and knew nothing about what it would take to make it through. I think God certainly had pity on me and put certain people into my path as it would have been impossible to make it without them. I met a guy named Rodney in the middle of the Mohave and he had been biking cross-country every year for the last six years. He probably saved my life or at least some severe discomfort when he gave me the right information at exactly the right time I needed it to make it across the desert.  I can simply say that God’s grace is sufficient for me. Anyway, I don’t suggest you do the same thing as I did and make sure you prepare for any trip longer than a few miles. Do a competent map study, and be proficient at riding before you hop on your touring bike. I only rode my bike twice before hitting the road for my 3,500 mile trip. (Not good, to say the least.)

Ever since that trip I have become a biking enthusiast. I ride mountain bikes and road bikes, although I prefer the off-road version now; I simply hate riding next to tractor-trailers and semis! The mountain bike also offers an additional option of getting off the hardball roads quickly and quietly if the need arises. Although you will not make the same speeds on a mountain bike as a road bike, in a SHTF scenario, speed is not your best option, stealth and versatility are.

The benefits of having a “bike” option are cost, simplicity, exercise and fitness, training under the radar, fuel savings, flexibility and versatility. Since my first croos country trip, I have completed two more cross-country rides and have become that much more proficient in the area of bicycle maintenance but you do not have to do any long distance trips to do the same. Start local, start riding your bike to get the paper or to do an errand. Get the kids involved. Find a rail-trail near your home and start doing weekend trips to ride on them. Plan a biking/camping adventure with them. Do some research and get a decent set of panniers for each bike in your home. Practice riding with a heavier load. Get a full complement of bicycle repair tools and equipment. I have an extra set of tubes for each tire and I also have two extra tires that I twist into a figure-8, then fold in half and stuff in my panniers. The longer you ride the more maintenance you will have to do to keep the bike running but that is its own reward in proficiency.  I always carried two methods of tire inflation. I carry three CO2 cartridges and a nozzle so I can quick fill a tire in a few seconds. I also keep a decent hand pump along as well. Don’t skimp on a hand pump, spend the extra dollars and get a good one that can pump up a road tire to 60 p.s.i. if need be.  Some pumps don’t cut the mustard on this capability so do some diligent research. Also make sure you know the difference between Presta and Schrader valves, and have the capability to pump into each type. Most gas stations can’t fill the Presta valves but a simple $1.50 conversion bit gives you this capability. I learned this one the hard way, don’t make the same mistake. Know the difference and be prepared.

Whenever I ride, I have several dollars in change in my handlebar pouch. I cannot tell you the number of times I pulled into gas stations and stores after they closed and found a working soda and candy machine outside. Having a supply of change is a lifesaver in some cases. I once was riding on route 66 between Kingman and Seligman, Arizona and pulled into an old decrepit gas station that looked like it hadn’t pumped any gas in decades. The only thing that worked was the soda machine and it didn’t have a slot for dollar bills; it was another one of those moments when I knew God was watching out for me.

Another item that is indispensable is tire liners. I use Mr. Tuffy’s tire liners but there are several on the market that should do the trick. Although it adds weight to your bike, they are worth every cent. I biked nearly 1,200 miles before I got my first flat on my first bike trip and have had similar results on all my long distance rides. A cheap alternative to store bought liners is to save your old tires and cut off the wire rims. Insert the remaining rubber into the tires and then put the tubes in and you have a home remedy to help prevent flat tires. This option is really only effective if your old tires are of the smooth variety. A knobby mountain bike tire will not fit snugly into a new one, even with the wire rimes cut off. You should also carry green “slime” which is a quick repair goop that you fill directly into your tubes. It fills the hole from the inside (provided it’s not too big) and allows you to continue to use a damaged tube without patching. Bike stores even sell tubes with the slime already pre-filled in the tubes. Tires can also help in the flat prevention department. Specialized makes an Armadillo tire that is pretty tough against flats. The only downside is that the tire is pretty stiff and isn’t for someone who wants a real smooth ride but if we are talking a SHTF scenario, these are money for preventing flats.

This brings me to my next point; patches. There are now lots of different options than the old standard vulcanizing patches we all grew up with. There are quick fix patches that are a time saver and are very useful to quickly patch a tire without having to wait five minutes before the glue sets on an old standard repair patch kit. The tradeoff is that most quick fix patches will not last as long as the standard patch but I developed a plan when I rode where I would quick fix any flat and then when I was safe in my overnight dwelling, I would re-examine my tubes, replace with new ones and re-patch if necessary. I never wanted to spend too much time on the side of the road patching a tire. In the event someone took notice who might want to do me harm, you want to get rolling as quickly as possible.

Bottom line: If you are looking at a true survival scenario, use as many of these options as you can to keep you bikes running on the roads and trails.
It also illustrates a point about traveling alone. I rode cross country in 1995, 1998 and 2003 and did all three trips solo. If I were to do it again, I would probably find someone who would do it with me. I was packing iron my 1st and 2nd trips, (Mr. S&W .357 Magnum on my first trip and Mr. Colt .45 on my second) but rode the third one without heavy metal since I was more aware of the state by state rules regarding firearms and probably was not riding in accordance with established concealed carry laws. I had a cell phone on that most recent trip unlike the first two but going solo, with or without a firearm, would be ill-advised in a survival situation. 

On my second cross country bike trip, I ran across an interesting individual in Tennessee. I can’t remember his name but he told me that people around the area called him the “can man” because he picked up cans along the roadside and turned them in for cash. He told me he bought his last truck with the money he saved from collecting cans. It took him several years but he was retired and just road up and down the state roads, about 40 miles each day, and did his thing and had a very healthy outlook on life. He had rigged up a rear seat platform with several milk crates which he used to keep his cans in and had a broom handle extension on his handlebars so he could walk and balance his load at the same time. It reminded me of the stories of the Viet Cong bringing supplies into South Vietnam on the Ho Chi Minh Trail but his little broomstick handle allowed him to walk upright while pushing the bike and not hunched over the way you normally do. I thought about this for a bit and realized the utility that this had to offer in a SHTF scenario. Let’s say you have to beat feet off a road or trail quickly to avoid a confrontation. This little set up allows you to quickly and efficiently push the bike through any type of brush or up a hill so you can cover ground that can't be ridden and get back to a place where you can ride.  I’m not advocating keeping a broom handle taped to your handlebars 24/7, just keep the option open to use if the need arises. You could even attach the handle to you bike frame and use some duct tape to attach it to the handlebars in a pinch. [JWR Adds: With most handlebars, a pair of 3.5" Aero-seal hose clamps Stainless Steel of Aero-seal style hose clamps would work better than tape.]
  
To make a short story a little bit longer, bikes are awesome and can be fitted to do a ton of stuff in a SHTF scenario. They should be a part of anyone’s survival bag of tricks but the time to get proficient is not after the balloon goes up but as soon as possible to get the family ready and have a lot of fun doing it. Use the internet and get savvy about your bike skills. There is a good online resource by Jim Langley, which covers a lot of the basics of bike repair and maintenance. Good luck and God Speed!

If you know how to ride a bike then raise your hand.  If you didn't raise your hand then you are either lying or don't have hands.  The truth is everyone knows how to ride a bike and everyone at some point in their lives has owned a bike.  If everyone has owned a bike or at least knows how to ride one, then I must beg the question "Why is no one talking more about bikes for TEOTWAWKI type situations?"  Allow me to remedy this quandary.

Possession of bicycles  is highly underrated in topic general.  Additionally, from the lack of information that I have seen I believe that bicycles are a highly undervalued asset when it comes to a TEOTWAWKI type situation.  Many people are unable to look past the obvious use for a bicycle; to ride it from point A to point B.  And although this in itself in extremely useful, there are limitations to this capability which mainly stem from human ability.  The purpose of this essay is to expound upon the many hidden uses for a bicycle.  After all a bike is a tool, a tangible asset, and as preppers we are good at using tools with good skills.  Aren't we?

So go get that rusty Schwinn out of the garage and let's begin.  I'm writing this essay under the assumption and premise that you, as the reader, have at least the physical ability to mount, pedal, and ride a bicycle for at least a 30 minute interval.

We can break down the use of a bike into many different categories and within each of these categories we can find different types of bikes that will best suit the needs of that category.  Those categories are; bugging out, bugging in, cargo transportation, unorthodox uses, bike fitness and basic bike maintenance.  There are many different kinds of bikes out there each with its own strengths and weaknesses.  The four most popular types of bikes I will be discussing are; mountain bikes, road bikes, tricycles, and recumbent bikes.  Let's discuss the types of bikes first.
Types of Bikes

Mountain Bikes
A Mountain bike could be considered the most versatile of bikes when considering a TEOTWAWKI type situation.  They are characterized by their big fat, thick knobby tires which are excellent for gaining traction on non-paved surfaces.  Additionally, they have flat handle bars for optimal control for ideal maneuvering and navigating tight turns.  Most often they will have a front suspension system to soften bumps and do come with a rear suspension variety as well.  Finally, mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes are the most common braking method.  Mountain bikes can also be broken down into three main categories as well; cross country (XC), all mountain (AM), and downhill (DH).

Cross country bikes are light and fast and are going to be the best pick for TEOTWAWKI (if you live where terrain is a bit rougher, then go with an all mountain bike, but stay away from downhill bikes if you have to do any pedaling  at all, they are meant ridden downhill and chair-lifted uphill).  They are meant to traverse rough terrain, but not as rough as all mountain and downhill bikes.  Higher end models can be typically found with extremely light carbon fiber components or even the frame can be made of carbon.  But in a TEOTWAWKI situation we want to stay away from carbon fiber and aluminum components.  We want steel. There is a saying in the mountain bike community, "Steel is Real".  And for good reason.  It is tough, durable and springy.  Aluminum and carbon fiber components are difficult to replace and repair and can be more costly.  Steel is heavier, but we aren't trying to trim weight to win a race, we are trying to survive.  If you can't get steel, aluminum is fine, you just have to take better care of your bike.

When looking to purchase a mountain bike shoot for mid range pricing $300-$600.  Bikes in this range are of good quality and have components that are durable, but not made of the feather light, highly breakable stuff.  Do not go to box store to purchase a bike (i.e. Wal-Mart, Target, etc.).  These bikes are built with poor quality materials under the philosophy of "planned obsolescence."  In other words, they are designed to break after a short time.  A few good suggestions are; Giant Boulder, Trek Police Series, and Specialized Hardrock.

Two final notes on mountain bikes.  Mountain bike come in three different wheel sizes.  26 inch, 650B and 29 inch wheels.  The most common size is the 26 inch and would be the easiest size to find repair parts for.  Also, mountain bike tires can be fitted with special "slick" tires that offer less rolling-resistance on pavement.  This gives them an additional  use in an urban environment.

Road Bikes
Speed is the name of the game with road bikes.  If you have to get from point A to point B fast and there is pavement between point A and point B, then road bikes are your weapon of choice.  Road bikes are super light weight and are characterized by their thin, smooth tires (which have less rolling resistance on a road), curved  handle bars and rim brakes.  Road bikes also have a higher gear ratio that mountain bikes.  That means that every time you push down on the pedal the back wheel spins around more times.  You get less torque, but higher RPMs for your pedal stroke.  This translates into a higher top speed on the road but a lower rate of acceleration.  You could possible take road bikes onto hard pack dirt, but it is not recommended that you ride them anything more extreme than this.

Road bikes are best suited for city environments with off-road conditions are almost non-existent.  They are more physically demanding to ride due to the more hunched over position they put the rider in.  I would recommend that if you are not capable of putting your body into this position for long periods of time that you look at getting a recreational/commuter, which blends many of the elements of comfort of a mountain bike with the speed elements of a road bike.

Road bikes also have their many varieties as well.  You can find them in competition race bikes, time trial bikes, track bikes, or recreational/commuter.  The best pick for a road bike would be a recreational/commuter type bike as this will have the most versatile of uses.  It will not have as fast of a top speed as the other bikes, nor will it be as light.  It will however be durable enough to withstand daily use and will make traversing pavement easier and more efficient than using a mountain bike.

When buying a road bike consider the guidelines above for buying a mountain bike to be just as valid.  A few suggestions for a pure road bike are; Specialized Dolce, Giant Defy, Trek 1.1 Series.  If you require recreational/commuter  then consider these models;  Trek Soho S, Specialized Vita Sport, or Giant Via.

Recumbent Bikes

Recumbent bikes can be considered the ultimate recreational bicycle.  They come in three main varieties, 2 wheel (least stable), tricycle and quad (most stable).  The unique hallmark of recumbent bikes is that you sit reclined on the bike in a seat, not on top of it in a saddle.  The advantage to this is that you get more bang for your buck per pedal stroke.  Each stroke is a highly efficient use of calories when translated to raw power.  The disadvantage of this is that you are limited mainly to paved surfaces and possibly dirt roads. 

The is another big disadvantage to recumbent bikes is that they have more parts.  More parts equal more chances for something to go wrong and break.  Some of these parts are very specialized too, meaning you will have a harder time replacing them.  Recumbent bikes are also much more expensive than their road and mountain counterparts.  This is due to the fact that they take more labor to make and have more moving parts.  Expect to pay as much as 10-15% more for a comparable road or mountain bike.

Recumbent bikes have their advantages too!  Recumbent bikes have excellent capacity for towing.  If you can attach a light weight bike trailer to a recumbent bike then you have the capacity to tow and carry large amounts of good and supplies over a long distance without tiring as quickly compared to a mountain or road bike. 
                   
Categories of Use

Bugging Out

Utilizing a bike for the purposes of bugging out can be either a very smart move, or a very costly mistake.  The duality exists under this simple observations.  Bikes are faster than walking, but slower and more vulnerable than motor vehicles.  Let me elaborate.  Cycling can get you from point A to point B at almost triple or quadruple the  speed compared to traveling on foot, but there are some major drawbacks.  First, you will need to carry with you every tool and replacement part needed to repair your bike on your back. Secondly, unless you have a towing trailer, your ability to carry large amounts of weight is extremely limited.  There are options for bike panniers that can be used to carry more weight, but this combined with a bug out bag or 72-hour kit will make your every top heavy on the bike thereby reducing your ability to maneuver.  Additional weight will also reduce your ability to climb hills on a bike.

The best  use for bugging out with a bike would be a scenario similar to this one.  First, it would be advantageous if you were solo or only had 1 dependent.  Organizing an exodus on bikes for multiple riders on the fly would be difficult to coordinate at best.  Secondly, it is recommended that your point of destination be already predetermined to meet up with a group of people that you can gain secondary support from.  Don't expect to be able to carry enough supplies on a bike for a SHTF scenario unless you have a tow trailer. 

Your destination should be no more than two days away from your starting point and your path of travel should be in the least populated area as possible.   You should ideally live on an urban edge where you can get away from populated areas and avoid being seen as much as possible.  On a bike you are a very easy target.  You are easy to knock over and highly unprotected.

Ultimately, I do not recommend bugging out on a bike unless it is absolutely necessary.  The truth of the matter is that you would have to use your best judgment depending on your situation and location and path of travel to your destination.  I would, however, recommend as my bike of preference a mountain bike outfitted with hybrid tires.  These are tires that are designed to function both on road and rough terrain conditions. 

Bugging In

A bike can be an extremely valuable tool in bugging in situations.  In addition to the obvious uses there are many unorthodox uses for a bike, as I will explain below.  But for now let's look at some of the practical uses for a bugging in situation.  A bike comes into its own within a community.  If, as a prepper, you are becoming active and developing a community type attitude (as you should), then a bicycle will be a boon to this community.  Depending on the size of the community a bike will allow an individual to travel to various parts of that community with less effort and energy expenditure compared to walking.  Additionally, the use of a bike can be relegated to the tasks that are not important enough to demand the use of burning fuel to operate a motor vehicle such as running errands and transporting small items.

What we begin to see here is a variety of living scenarios in which a bike is applicable for bugging in.  In an urban environment, a bike flourishes.  City dwellers can get to close locations very quickly on a road bike.  In a sub-urban environment community leaders can get from house to house quickly in order to pass on news or respond to emergencies.  In a rural situation those long 2, 3 and 4 mile commutes to the nearest neighbor can be cut in half when compared to traveling on foot.  In a bugging in situation a bike can actually reinforce the closeness of a community because of its to save fuel and help people travel quicker than walking.

Cargo Transportation

A bike can find usefulness is transporting cargo, but it take a somewhat dedicated use of a bike.  There are limitations to how much a person can transport and that depends on many factors; the fitness level of the rider, the weight of cargo in question, the size of the cargo in question, the type of bike being used, terrain, etc.  For example, one person of average fitness with a mountain bike fitted with panniers might only be able to transport 20-30 pounds for a distance of 5 miles.  Another person of high fitness on a road bike towing a cargo trailer might be able to transport 60-70 pounds over a distance of 10 miles with no issues. 

Once again, discretion is required.  If you live on a relatively flat location a tricycle with a cargo basket may be perfect fit for you and your fitness level.  If you life in a highly paved area but require long distances then maybe a road bike with panniers is your best option.  If you live in the mountains then using a bike for cargo transportation may not even be a good option at all.  Bike are not best for all situations and you will have to use your head to figure this out.

Bike Fitness

Bike fitness can be an excellent boon to your overall fitness regimen.  If you are already running, lifting weights, swimming, or doing other forms of cardio and weight resistance, cycling can round you out overall.  Remember, as preppers we should not be specialized.  We must be able to adapt physically and a well rounded individual has a higher chance of survival.

If you plan on riding a bike for long distances then your lungs are going to get tired, your legs are going to get tired, your back is going to get tired, and your buttocks are going to get tired.  The only way to remedy these problems is to build up endurance. Get on a bike and ride.  From personal experience if you are starting out riding a bike, a 45 minute ride can be torture on the rear end (especially if you have a streamlined saddle, and not a comfort saddle and ride on rough terrain).  However, one 45 minute ride once a week can be enough to toughen up your derriere to a point that a 45 minute ride is no big deal.  Make this ride a low intensity ride where you are basically spinning the pedals will low resistance.

In order to increase the strength in your legs and lungs  you are going to need to add at least one more ride into your regimen per week.  Additionally, this ride is going to need to be of higher intensity.  Try to find a route that incorporates more hills and climbs than your first ride per week.  This will challenge your legs and lungs.  Try to make this a sustained ride for at least 45 minutes with a high level of resistance.

By combining two rides per week of different intensities one will challenge your body while the other will allow your body to fall into an "active recovery".  This is when your muscles rebuild themselves.  The higher intensity ride will challenge your muscles and lungs.  During days of non riding try to cross train with other forms of exercise so that you are balancing out your exercise routines.  Above all, try not to get caught up in tracking your heart rate, power (wattage), etc. that high level athletes try to monitor unless you really want to engage in a higher level of bike intensity.  At that point you are becoming specialized, and, you probably have bike racing goals.  Keep it simple!

One last thing.  Bike fitness can be augmented by purchasing a cheap bike trainer.  What this is, is a device that attaches to the rear wheel of your mountain or road bike.  It lifts the wheel off the ground and applies resistance.  That way if there is ever bad weather outside or you don't have time to get ready for an outside ride, you can just hop on the trainer and get your spinning done.  Most inexpensive trainers run around $100.  The cost a bike trainer plus a decent road or mountain bike can cost as much as a stationary trainer that you can buy at Wal-Mart or Academy, but you can always take the bike of your trainer and head outside.  Plus the trainer acts as a tool for unorthodox  uses.

Unorthodox Uses

Now for some fun speculation and creativity.  A bicycle is a human powered machine that focuses on rotational power.  When we begin to think about this, what sort of devices that we use every day capitalize on rotational power?  Drills, saws, grinders, blenders, wheat mills, electricity dynamos, pumps, mulchers, etc.  There are many possibilities.  Is it possible to use our bikes to power these devices?  With a little ingenuity it is!  Here is how.

You will need to have a bike trainer for your bike.  This will allow you to work on your fitness but also allow your bike to be converted to a powering device.  By lifting your bike off the ground and removing the rear tread and tube, you can attach a belt to the rear wheel that can be attached to any rotational device with a bit of modification.  Take a look at these examples below:
A pedal powered hacksaw.  Pedal powered kitchen accessories.  Pedal powered water pump.  Pedal powered jig-saw.  Pedal powered water filtration.  Pedal powered washing machine.  Pedal powered AC inverter.  Pedal powered generator.

The possibilities for unorthodox uses are endless and are only limited to your imagination. 

Bike Maintenance

Maintaining your bike is going to be crucial if you want your bike to last.  Here are some guidelines to help you keep your bike in good working condition. 

First, let's understand your bike's consumable components.  The first of these will be bike tubes.  Stocking up on bike tubs might not be the best use of one's money considering this is a permanent option.  Head over to Wal-Mart and pick up a solid rubber bike tube.  Granted, these are more expensive than regular tubes, but you will never need to replace a bike tube.  Additionally,  you won't need to worry about having a pump of any kind.

Another consumable will be your bike tires.  If you are going to be riding your bike on a consistent basis then having extra bike tires around will be a good idea.  The rubber meets the road here, so to speak, and these will wear out quicker than any other component.  Also, understand your terrain and stock the appropriate kind of bike tire.  If you are on paved surfaces then keep road tires around.  If you are near trails then keep mountain tires around. 

Your chain is going to be the next component that will wear out quickly and/or break.  Keep a few extra chains around along with chain links.  Don't forget to get a small chain tool to allow you to attach and remove damaged chains.

Cables and housings for your brakes and derailleurs are good to have around as well.  These will not wear out as quickly as the aforementioned components but keep 1 or 2 spares around for each brake and derailleur.

Lubrication!  Your bike is going to need to be lubricated just like any other machine.  The best lubrications are dry-Teflon type lubricants for your chains and exterior bike components. 
Engine grease is the perfect lubrication for wheel axles and bottom brackets.

Your bike is going to need to be cleaned once or twice a month if you ride it on a regular basis.  If you  have a mountain bike that you actually ride on trails then you should consider giving a good cleaning once a month and a wipe-down once a week.  This keeps dust and debris to a minimum which can damage the paint and then frame of your bike.  If paint on your frame gets chips in it then there is the potential for corrosion to set in.

Finally, if you are serious about taking care of your own equipment, I highly recommend that you purchase one of these two books, or both; Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance, and Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance.  These two books are a boon to anyone who wants to keep their bike in tip top shape and will cover way more information than what I have time to cover in this essay.

On the Go and Home Base Toolkits

On the Go Kit:                 

Having an on the go toolkit is essential and there are some essential items that belong in it.  Think of this as your EDC kit for your bike.  Here is what I would include:
1)  A mini pump if your tires have tubes.  (Also include at least 1 spare tube along with patches to help fix flats.)
2)  Handy, but nonessential, are small CO2 cartridges with a bike valve adapter.  These make for quick inflation if you are in a hurry.
3)  A Gerber-type multi-tool.
4)  A small metric allen wrench set.
5)  Chain tool with spare chain or links of chain.
6)  About 10 zip ties.
7)  1 set of spare brake and derailleur cables and housings (many uses that for just fixing your cables).  You will want to make sure that the housings are pre-cut to the length needed.  These cannot be cut with a regular knife.  So cut these before hand and then include them in your kit.
8)  A small bottle of chain lube.

All of these items can fit in a medium size bike bag that you can find at most box store and almost all bike shops.

Home Base Toolkit:  You home base toolkit should include tools that would allow you to conduct almost any repair on your bike.  An excellent starter toolkit is the Park Tool Advanced Mechanic Tool Kit (or similar).  This has almost all of the tools required for any basic repair on a bicycle.  It has tools to help fix everything from broken wheel spokes to removing the bottom bracket from a bike.
You should also supplement this kit with these items:
1) Repair stand.  Not essential, but makes repairs much easier to conduct.
2)  Plenty of spare grease and chain lube.
3)  A good shop floor pump if you have tubes.
4)  Spare chains.
5)  At least 1 spare front and rear wheel.
6)  At least 1 set of spare disc brake discs or 2-3 sets of rim brake pads. 
7)  Extra sets of handle bar grips or grip tape.
9)  Lots of wheel spokes!  These will break a whole lot, especially in mountain bikes that see trail use.
10)  A wheel truing stand.  Not essential, but makes truing wheels easier.

[JWR Adds: By adding some spare parts and scrounging a heap of discarded bikes to cannibalize for parts (yes, they can be bought in heaps here in the U.S., and they are least expensive that way), the foregoing list will set you up with post-collapse home-based business.]

In general, as with all prepping, having extra bike parts will benefit you very much.  About 75% of the parts on a bike will render it useless (or difficult to operate) if they break.

Conclusion
I hope that everyone can understand that there is a place for bikes in a SHTF type situation.  They can be used to transport messages across the mountains between small bands of militia defending themselves against a UN invading force, they can simple help a person get out of Dodge, or they can charge a battery. 

 

 

Everything is about sustainability. Housing, heating, food, self defense, water supplies: do it yourself, maintain it. We can't turn away, completely, from the best parts of our civilization however. That means things like centralized small business. Small scale manufacturing is ongoing in little towns with certain specialties. Getting there from semi-remote or rural self sufficient farms for that extra income or making use of a skill set for a high demand part (gunsmiths, CB radio, water pumps, wood stoves, solar panels, small engines etc) are often best built and sold at a central location. It makes sense, for supply issues and for the customer.

Getting there becomes the trick. You can walk. You can ride a horse, if you have a stable at both ends and someone to tend them there. You can bicycle. You can stay in a row house 4-5 days and go home on the weekends. Or you can use a high fuel efficiency vehicle. This can mean carpooling with other workers on the same schedule. This can mean buying an expensive electric or hybrid car. The Nissan Leaf costs $45,000 to manufacture. The Prius costs nearly as much, but only gets 50 m.p.g. (going downhill, with a tailwind). You can think outside the box with 4 doors and improve your power to weight ratio by removing weight from a car or truck with a small engine and gearing appropriately. This ends up uncomfortable and often less safe in a crash. Life is filled with compromises.

What about a bicycle? If its only a couple miles, bicycling uses no fuel, just muscle power. That's great. What if you live more than a couple miles away? Pedal further. How far gets to be too far? You can reduce pedaling by converting your mountain bike to a moped using a bolt on 33cc 2-stroke engine kit. Or get a moped or scooter. Or a more efficient bicycle, or move closer to your job, or your job closer to you.

You can ride to work on a farm ATV, provided the local law enforcement allow them on the roads unimpeded. Some regions do, so don't. It might be worth contacting your state assembly rep to get them legal for future needs. Some just need turn signals, fenders, mirrors, and lights to be legal, depending on the jurisdiction.. Just a matter of registration in some cases.

Three wheeled tricycle motorcycle hacks are pretty common in Southeast Asia and South America. They're pretty cheap, slow, and carry passengers or gear/cargo. An odd kind of thing, but good for those nervous about riding on two wheels. Same goes for sidecars, which come in leaning and fixed varieties, and often bolt on. Even scooters can have sidecars these days.

And there's also motorcycles. Two wheels, don't bother riding in the wet, and requires care on corners with loose gravel. Famously unsafe, but most accidents involve speed, inattention, ego, and/or alcohol. You aren't prone to any of those things. Preppers are a cautious sort, the best sort of riders, really. Dual Sport bikes will cross all kinds of terrain (single track, rocks, mud bog, unmaintained roads) and can't get stuck because you can physically lift them out by hand or go around obstacles that would take time and effort to deal with using a 4WD, using half the fuel of a modern commuter car and less than a Prius. Its Green, in both the ironic and non-ironic sense of the word. Fuel economy via better power to weight ratio. It gets you, the passenger, to work, where the income happens.

There are also scooters, though Underbones have better ground clearance and bigger wheels so can deal with the nastier roads since that's what they're built for, in the Philippines, Indonesia, and Southeast Asia in general. Scooter motors, using 50-150ccs get around 80 to 100 m.p.g., which means that so long as some fuel is getting delivered to your town, and its not raining or snowing that day, you can get to work, keep your mortgage paid and food on the table while sharing skill sets with other locals similarly inclined. I generally avoid 50cc machines unless you live in flatland because they don't climb hills for beans. 125cc should be a minimum, and most states require 4-stroke engines these days. Those are common for imports and have decent power and low noise so it works out. Sadly these are not built in America anymore. All are imported and thus expensive. Do not buy a Chinese scooter unless its a re-badged main production from a proper brand name (Vespa, Piaggio, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha) [and thus will be covered under a decent warranty.] The basic Chinese scooter is garbage and will fail.

Some reliable example machines to consider by type of road surface:

• Smooth maintained roads: Vespa 50-125cc models, Honda PCX 125, Yamaha Vino 125, any sport motorcycle 250cc. These are what you'll find in city limits and the suburbs in healthy communities that can afford pavement long term. For now, most places are like this. This will not last.
• Rougher partially maintained roads: Honda Ruckus 300, Honda SH10X, any Underbone 125cc, any standard or dual sport motorcycle with 5 inches of vertical wheel travel in the suspension. Suburbs are often like this, and most rural and poorer communities are like this now.
• Rough unmaintained roads: Any dual sport with knobby tires such as KLX-250, Honda CRF-230L, Yamaha 200cc, Yamaha WR250X (nice, light, and fast), Suzuki DRZ400 (reputedly the ultimate serious off road bike). These have 11 inches of vertical wheel travel which means they can go over rock falls and speed bumps and potholes and across ditches and not really suffer. They're much safer on rough roads. They look funny on the highway but with slick tires they do just fine, known in the sport as "Supermoto".

For a prepper this is a good idea to track down and learn on, getting wheels with both kinds of tires mounted so you can swap them yourself, should your road maintenance go South for budgetary reasons. An off road capable motorcycle is the equivalent of the .308/7.62 NATO rifle. A good insurance policy. Practice riding monthly, like you would your rifle marksmanship.

The above examples are the smaller-engine machines best for fuel economy. Most are carbureted or have cheaper carbureted versions, thus EMP resistant and adjustable for fuel additives and quality. All are available used, and many are better for it, being broken in. Someday they'll have engine swaps for biodiesel you can grow yourself or from the local Co-op/feed store, even more sustainable. Most bikes either come with or can be upgraded to progressive shocks which make them much safer handling if you have to make them go fast over rough terrain. Most can be bought used for a reasonable price. Boise, Idaho is famous for these kinds of machines, it being an outdoors powersports paradise without the Californians getting in the way. When the Recovery comes, city people will venture out into your community for vacation, sight seeing, or to buy the specialty goods you've been perfecting during this Depression.

At some point in the near (next couple years) future, oil supplies will be greatly constrained in a short period of time, mostly due to the needs for Islamic OPEC nations modernizing following the last year worth of democratic revolutions. I can't blame them. We've done the same thing, only 250 years ago. This supply crunch will likely either bring rationing by fiat or by cost, either way requiring a huge change in how we live. The end of the world as we know it, only without violence necessarily. Just huge adjustment to travel options and thus work. We might end up working the job we don't want because its the only one we can get to. If the ration is less than will work for your vehicle you get to choose between your family and a motorcycle/bicycle. It is up to you. Safe riding is mostly a matter of lower speed and good judgment. Idiots hurt themselves on bikes. Set aside the fear of parody bikers (mostly stock brokers and other rich people pretending to be pirates just because they saw The Wild One or Mad Max. Those people are playing pretend and will go broke.) and consider the tool for what it is: a way to get to work and home with minimal resources. - InyoKern

Jim,

Regarding J-B Weld: It is not like most other two part epoxies.  The additives in the product impart a very important characteristic: It can be machined (drilled, grinded, sanded and even tapped.   Normal two-part epoxy tends to chip and shatter when drilled, can't be tapped effectively and is extremely hard to sand.  J-B Weld, on the other hand, is easily worked with normal home workshop tools. 

Just last weekend I had a stripped machine screw hole for the screw that holds one of my car's sun visors up.  I filled the hole with J-B Weld, let it cure overnight, then drilled and tapped to the original size.  It worked just great - sort of a liquid Heli-Coil.  I've done plenty of work with "regular" two-part epoxies on my boat and I know this couldn't be done with a two-part epoxy (like West Systems), at least without additives.

With all that said, J-B Weld is not suitable for a drilling-tapping application subject to (a) much tension or (b) high heat.  I figure any more than about 10-15 foot pounds of torque would cause the J-B Weld to separate and heat makes [virtually] all epoxy resins soften - so it's not going to hold an engine head bolt in with it!

Best, - Matt R.

 

Hey Jim,
I thought I would mention that Slime tire sealant breaks down fairly rapidly in my experience and becomes a worthless mess inside of your tire/tube.  I have had much better luck with Ultraseal which does not freeze and has not broken down in the 4-5 years I have been using it. Regards, - S.D. in West Virginia

Sir:

Do you or any of your readers have any experience with J-B Weld? Is it recommended for use as a survival item -- i.e., pros and cons versus traditional methods of joining [materials]?

Thank you! Best, - J.C.

JWR Replies: Yes, it works quite well, and I do recommend it.  But don't let the "liquid steel" marketing hype fool you.  It is just a two-part epoxy.

To be properly equipped for emergency repairs on vehicles, tractors, and assorted gear at your retreat, I recommend watching for sale prices and stocking up on a variety of sticky and strong stuff. I recommend keeping not just J-B Weld epoxy on hand, but also some Rec Repair patch material, a couple of cans of expanding insulating foam, a roll of self-fusing silicone tape, some Krazy Glue, a can of Slime tire sealant, a tube of blue Permatex Form-a-Gasket, a tube of clear RTV silicone, a tube of Shoe Goo (useful for much more than shoe repairs!), several rolls of galvanized steel wire (for versatility, get several different gauges from 8 gauge to 22 gauge), and of course some paracord and duct tape. (Both in olive drab, naturlich). Some people also suggest carrying Bar's Stop Leak (or similar) for emergency radiator repairs. But my old friend Ken X., (a senior mechanic) advises against using them. He tells me that these miracle radiator goops can do as much damage as they do good, since they can constrict the flow of water through a radiator. Use it only as a last resort!

Letter Re: Antenna Launching Alternatives

Good day,
I was just reading about Antenna Launchers in SurvivalBlog and it occurred to me than rather than constructing a complex pneumatic launcher, you could alternately use either an arborist throw weight for shorter distances or or a throw weight with an elastic launcher for heights well over 100 feet. Throw weights are inexpensive and designed to tow a line over tree branches.

As a newcomer to the survivalist game (and by newcomer, I mean that I haven’t planned for anything bad to happen in the future except for my daughter reaching dating age), I thought it would be interesting to detail how I came to be reading this web site at this point in my life and the steps I have taken so far as a “virgin” survivalist.
 
I became interested in it recently due to several factors. The first is I have always found literature regarding end of the world scenarios to be fascinating.  I have read everything from On the Beach to The Last Ship to science fiction stories about the end of times such as the Daybreak series. Second, while I am not politically active, I am politically observant, and there are telling signs in the global economy and in politics within the United States that are quite troubling.  The third, and perhaps most important, is that I am a planner and worrier by nature (both at home, and as my job) and I found myself thinking of various scenarios that could happen.  I then realized that, while many bad things could happen, I (and my family) was really prepared for none of it. Starting out I didn’t even know how much I didn’t know.
 
The final straw was my impending 40th birthday and the slight mid-life crisis I was experiencing.  As I don’t like fast cars and still like my wife (which rules out a girlfriend), I was in search of a hobby to occupy my time, and seeing the intersection of the necessity of survival preparation and my interest in scenarios for TEOTWAWKI I decided it was the perfect match.
 
My first baby steps towards worst case scenario planning involved reading.  As a voracious reader, I found SurvivalBlog.com, and have ordered numerous books on the subject.  After having read the books, I then performed a Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats (SWOT) analysis.  As recently mentioned in SurvivalBlog, it is a method to analyze a certain subject (in this case my ability to survive given scenarios) to understand where you are at internally (strengths and weaknesses) and to predict what might happen externally (threats and opportunities).
 
My SWOT analysis for strengths was somewhat limited, as might be expected.  I listed overall health (I exercise 5 or 6 days / week, doing both cardio and weights), general intelligence (I have an engineering degree), available resources (while not rich I have a pretty good job and some disposable income) and childhood (I grew up on a farm, hunting, fishing and being outside).
 
My weakness list was obviously very long.  While I consider myself pretty healthy, I have an eye disease requiring the use of custom made hard contacts, as well as asthma.  I had no specific survival skills, no weapons, no tools, no medical training and no contingency plans.  One of my biggest weaknesses (as I saw it) was a general lack of useful knowledge on how to survive when the balloon goes up.  I mean, I can buy lots of stuff, but all that stuff can be taken away by somebody who is bigger / faster / better armed than me.  If I have a desirable skill then I would be “marketable” as they say in today’s world.
 
One of main opportunities I listed my older brother.  A “prepper” himself, he is a licensed gun dealer and owns a small business selling survivalist equipment.  Many of the items I would need he can obtain for wholesale pricing, and he is willing to sell them to me without any mark up.  Another opportunity that I saw was that my asthma was well under control, allowing me to take my medicine on alternate days and thus allowing me to create some safety stock.
 
For threats, I listed my proximity to a major city (I live about 40 miles from downtown Detroit), and my travel schedule (I am on the road for work about one week / month, and overseas twice / year).
 
I established a priority list as follows based on my current finances and knowledge.  I have decided first to concentrate on short term situations (natural disasters, terrorist attacks), and then once my short term needs are settled then begin planning for some longer term potentials (it didn’t make much sense to me to buy a grain mill when I didn’t have any food socked away in the first place to eat while waiting for my wheat to grow).  The list is as follows:

• Survivalist resources (books)
• Water purification
• Medicine / contact lenses
• Fire starting tools
• First Aid kid
• Food (short term/backpacking)
• Miscellaneous tools (knives, compass, rain gear, etc)
• Weapons / ammo
• Food storage / preparation
• Power generation / storage
• Silver
  

To date I have purchased supplies for two different methods of water purification (tablets and filter straws) and three methods of starting fires.  Thanks to my wife’s obsession with buying bottled water (and then drinking diet coke instead) I have about 30 gallons of bottled water available as well (don’t ask, I don’t understand it either).  I have purchased supplies to start my own (somewhat limited) first aid kit. As mentioned I have begun alternating the days on which I take my medicine and have ordered extra contacts for an emergency reserve.  I have started bug out bags for me and my family, with various items (in addition to the ones above), and also including a hatchet, knife, cable saw, Gerber multi-tool, rope, energy bars, compass, fishing line, emergency blanket, and spare clothes) and stored 10 gallons of gasoline. (This is a trifling quantity, but the extra 150 miles could get me some places that other people might not make it to.
 
The next steps for me (in the next three months) are to begin the research and purchase of weapons and food storage / water filtration, and to begin categorizing the supplies and budget I will need for longer term situations.  Based on the research on have seen so far I am planning on purchasing a Remington 870, a Ruger 10/22 (the rimfire rifle from my youth), and some type of pistol (I have not yet determined the type yet.)  To help with my research I have scheduled firing sessions with my brother, where I will test an AR-15, a .308 battle rifle, and various pistols.   If I have additional money available I will later go big for some type of assault weapon.
 
I also want to do some research into the area I am in (while somewhat close to Detroit, I am surrounded by lakes and farmlands) to determine if I should plan on staying in my current house, or if I should head somewhere else if the stuff hits the fan.  I will also get a minimum of 30 days of food on hand for my family and me.
 
In the long term (six months to a year) my main goal is to become better prepared for long term survival situations.  This will require upgrading my house or finding a suitable bug out location, obtaining more “bean, bullets and band-aids” and developing a skill that would be essential in a post-apocalyptic scenario. I am smart enough to realize that I don’t everything that I will need to know or to own everything I will need to own to survive if something major happens.  Therefore the best chance for me and my family is to somehow be taken on by a more organized group by having a skill that would be desirable.  After some research the main thing I am considering is blacksmithing (every book I read mentions the need for these) and at 225 pounds I am probably big enough to do it.
 
My biggest open question is what to do with my pop up camper. While at first the idea of using a pop up camper in the event of an emergency seems ludicrous (and maybe it is), if I do have to bug out I will likely (hopefully) be driving, and if I am driving why would I not take a self contained, waterproof, heated tent, which allows me to carry more gear farther (including mounts for bicycles)?  It has the added advantage in that I already keep all of my essential supplies locked in the camper, so theoretically we can hook up and be on the road in a matter of minutes. 
 
Of course, a pop up camper limits where you can go (no off road routes would be possible), is totally indefensible, and supplies to live without it (tents, sleeping bags, etc) are still required but for my given scenario (short term emergencies) I am currently planning on utilizing it.
 
In all just thinking about things and taking baby-steps so far has made me feel a little better as far as my preparation and the next steps required.

I read JWR's books "Patriots" and"How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It" with interest and have been thinking and acting on them since. In particular, I was struck by the concept of using aircraft post-TEOTWAWKI for various purposes as illustrated in Patriots. I'd like to submit the following for your review, and for posting on Survivalblog if you feel it worthy.

Background 
I've been a commercial pilot (not airline) for about six years and have amassed flight time in aircraft as light and simple as a Van's RV-7 (experimental) up to Beechcraft King Air-sized airplanes in various missions across the continental US. I have personally guided aircraft across 40 of the continental States, from the flats of Texas to the peaks in Colorado. I don't pretend to have the vast breadth of different experiences like Alaskan bush pilots or the years of experience of senior airline pilots like Captain Sullenberger (of Miracle on the Hudson fame), but I do believe I can offer some pointers on the use of light aircraft for survival, retreat, and Get Out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.) purposes.

Why bother?
The fact is that airplanes are expensive to own and operate, regardless of whether it's an Experimental or Certified aircraft. Even heavily-used models cost as much as a really nice new truck and require much more upkeep than a vehicle. The training to become a pilot is expensive, and just like marksmanship, flying requires continual practice to stay competent. The money spent on an airplane could easily go to preps that have more lasting value like your deep larder, hardening a retreat shelter, or any number of other purposes. There are a couple advantages, however, for those who have their retreat fully stocked and ready or- more likely- are considering bringing an aircraft owner or pilot into a retreat group.  

Speed. In a G.O.O.D. event, speed is of the essence, particularly for those prone to procrastination. The 28-hour nonstop drive from my current location to my family farm/retreat takes perhaps 8-10 hours in a light airplane, including the time spent to land and refuel. If I make this flight in the summer with a tailwind, I could leave after breakfast and land at the airport nearest the retreat before dinner. In a G.O.O.D. scenario, this drive could take a week or more depending on how bad things get on the ground- and it's quite possible I might not make it at all.

All-terrain. Regardless of what happens to the infrastructure on the ground, an airplane can get you over it. Road blocks, traffic accidents, gridlock, etc are no longer a factor. Even if most airports close, an average light airplane only needs 1/4-1/3 of a mile of straight road or pasture to land and take off comfortably. Many measure their take-off and landing distances in hundreds, rather than thousands, of feet. Extremely light aircraft (like the ultralight aircraft in Patriots) can take off in 200 feet or less.

Reliability. Airplanes are built to keep flying. With proper maintenance, engine malfunctions resulting in a failure due to design and construction problems are next to none. Further, in an EMP event, I believe virtually every light aircraft would still be flight capable. The ignition systems in these aircraft are magneto-driven (think: distributor on an older car), so the engines would likely continue to run. Even the newer fuel-injected aviation piston engines use magnetos and mechanical fuel injection which are impervious to EMP. The communication radios, GPS and navigation radios would be fried, but with a map and a compass you'd still be able to get to your retreat- or at least to the nearest airport or road. The engines and systems on light aircraft are very simple and a typical light aircraft can go 10 years or more between engine overhauls at normal utilization rates.

Aircraft Types and Limitations
There are two aircraft types I wish to discuss: light single-engine (FAA-Certified) and light single-engine (experimental). I specifically ignore large, complex, and multiengine aircraft due to their cost, complexity, and the more expensive and intensive training program that comes with these aircraft. They also have much higher fuel consumption and need much longer runways on the order of 4,000-6,000 feet in length.

Certified
Certified (or certificated) aircraft offer a number of advantages. They are (relatively) mass-produced, leading to some commonality of parts among various types and models, and their mechanical systems and designs are well-proven and nearly every airframe and powerplant (A&P) technician in the world can work on these aircraft. They include the ubiquitous Cessna and Piper lines, and the less common and more-expensive varieties such as Beechcraft, Mooney, Cirrus, and others. Used prices can range from $10,000 for a used Cessna 150 to $500,000 or more for barely-used Cirrus SR-22s. Generally speaking, the more cash you shell out, the more speed and load-carrying capacity you will get in an aircraft, along with more fuel burned per hour. Some good G.O.O.D. aircraft could include the Cessna 150/152 for one person, the Cessna 180 and 185 for more than one person, and even some modified Piper PA-18 and PA-20-series with short takeoff and landing (STOL) kits installed. A converted C-150/152 with conventional landing gear and larger engine is an ideal bug-out vehicle for one person with a get-home kit. These aircraft are currently selling for less than the cost of a good grid-tie wind turbine and tower kit.

Certified Advantages
Besides the advantage of being "common" aircraft that don't attract much attention at a local airport (assisting in OPSEC in a G.O.O.D. situation), certified aircraft offer the advantage of having manufacturer parts support and lots of certified aircraft mechanics to work on them in normal pre-TEOTWAWKI conditions. Besides an aviation mechanic's license, no specialized mechanic training is required, and costs tend to be fairly predictable with these aircraft. They also don't require any special pilot training (though type-specific training is always recommended) and can legally be flown by anyone with a private pilot license.

Certified Disadvantages
Problems with certified aircraft aren't many but can pose serious challenges. Because these aircraft are supported by manufacturers who are exposed to absurd levels of product liability, parts tend to be unbelievably expensive due to the liability insurance attached to each one and the "one-off" nature of certain parts. For example, new "crate" engines from GM, Ford, and Dodge can be had for as little as $1,000-$2,000, depending on type, whereas even the smallest aircraft piston engine costs upwards of $20,000 new from the factory. Additionally, these aircraft tend to be on the "heavy" side, with interior trim, autopilots, extra radios, air conditioners, and other creature comforts leading to "fat" airplanes that cannot carry as much as their size and cost would seem to indicate. To avoid fat airplanes, potential buyers should focus on those built before the end of general aviation aircraft construction in the mid-1980s. Those built after 1994 (when aircraft building started again) tend to be significantly heavier than the same models built earlier due to the reasons mentioned above.

Experimental
On the other side of the coin is the Experimental category. These aircraft are exactly like the name implies- not factory-produced, and assembled by the builder for his or her educational and recreational purposes. As a result, you can literally build whatever you want so long as the FAA will approve it to fly- that is, grant it an Airworthiness Certificate. There is also the ELSA/SLSA- Experimental Light Sport and Special Light Sport categories which are not FAA-approved but fall under a different set of rules altogether. These are closer to certified but still do not undergo the same process as FAA-certified models. Also, ELSA/SLSA aircraft are limited to lower speeds and restricted to two seats. The advantage to Light Sport aircraft is their low fuel consumption and better factory support, as compared to Experimental aircraft.

Several manufacturers offer experimental aircraft kits which allow a builder to have some factory support and design/parts commonality that can increase the safety and reliability of these aircraft and greatly reduce builder errors and construction time. For example, Van's Aircraft, which is based just south of Portland, Oregon, builds a number of designs all cut from the same cloth and have received numerous awards for efficiency and performance. A Van's aircraft can take off in a few hundred feet and cruise at 200 mph. Several other manufacturers offer similar kits, all with varying capabilities. An additional benefit to buying a kit-built aircraft is the large builder community that tends to come with the purchase. For example, Van's aircraft has recorded more than 7,000 flying aircraft since they started selling kits, outpacing many Cessna factory models, and every Van's builder has the support of the entire community of builders and pilots. The community of experimental builders is truly huge, numbering in the tens of thousands, and many share the same values and sense of community that preppers do. Besides kit aircraft, there are many designs available solely as plans, from which a builder creates the airplane from blueprints. This is the least-expensive and most labor-intensive method of building your own airplane, and also requires the largest investment in tools--all of which would be left behind in a G.O.O.D. evacuation.  (But the knowledge you gain goes with you.) As an example, the Thatcher CX-4 single-seater can be built from plans for less than $5,000 (and lots of 'sweat equity') with a VW-derived engine on the front end, cruises around 100 mph, and burns 4 gallons of fuel per hour.  

Experimental Advantages
As mentioned above, cost is a major advantage for Experimental aircraft. Whole-aircraft kits for experimental models cost a small fraction of a similar new factory-built airplane, and the builder has the advantage of keeping the airplane as simple as he likes or going "all out" to build his dream airplane. As a result, these airplanes have the potential for better carrying capacity than similarly-sized certified aircraft, allowing them to carry more "stuff" for the same takeoff weight. Costs are also controlled because the builder can service the airplane himself- assuming he follows the FAA paperwork when building the airplane to receive his repairman's certificate. Engines are not restricted to certified models, and in fact many light experimentals fly with modified VW and Corvair air-cooled engines, whose parts can be sourced from any auto parts store. Some higher-performance models run with Ford or Chevrolet V-6 and V-8 engines, as well, which also helps with keeping parts costs down.

Experimental Disadvantages
Like certified aircraft, experimental-category aircraft have disadvantages as well. Because of the nature of the Experimental category, these airplanes do not undergo the long and expensive proving process that FAA-certified models do. This means that structural flaws, design errors, construction problems, and other issues can be discovered the hard way by the builder or owner because they were not found during the certification process. Also, these designs have little or no parts stocks available and replacements would have to be hand-built should something break. Should you buy an experimental airplane second-hand, you also take the risk of possible errors in construction from the original builder. As a rule, experimental aircraft experience more accidents related to construction and design than any other type of flying machine.

Aircraft Use: Post-TEOTWAWKI
What then is the potential for aircraft use post-TEOTWAWKI? There are several practical uses that come to mind:

Bugging out. As previously mentioned, using an airplane to get to a retreat is a good option, particularly if you've established a retreat on a remote lake or other area with no roads (or maybe impassable roads due to flooding or snow cover) leading in. A floatplane can get you safely onto shallow lakes or rivers, and an airplane with good takeoff performance could land on a small stretch of field, road, or pasture next to your retreat. Outfitters in Alaska and Canada drop off hunting and fishing parties to remote lakes using float planes and bush planes every day for exactly these reasons. [JWR Adds: See the SurvivalBlog archives for other posts about bugging out via light aircraft, STOL planes, and retrofitting planes with Tundra Tires.)

Surveillance. Assuming quality high-octane fuel is available post-TEOTWAWKI, some aircraft engines can be modified to run safely and legally on motor vehicle gasoline instead of expensive and rare leaded avgas, and so surveillance flights could be made using an airplane if your retreat has a stabilized fuel cache. This could include surveillance of conditions in the local community at large, scouting expeditions for food crops and wildlife herds, performing surveys of floods, snow cover, forest fires, etc, or simply seeing what the world outside your retreat is doing in your absence. If your retreat follows JWR's location criteria, finding out what is going on in the outside world using a vehicle could take days or weeks and expose you to roadblocks and accidents (as described in Patriots). In an aircraft, this type of survey could be done safely in an afternoon at altitudes that put you out of range of most small arms.

Transport. Again, assuming fuel is available, emergency transport for very ill individuals to a better-equipped locale is possible using an aircraft. Retreats that are connected to one another via radio could coordinate medical care efforts and essentially establish an air ambulance system should such a system become necessary. Additionally, critical supplies or gear can also be relocated quickly using an airplane to stranded members of a retreat who have problems with a vehicle or run into other trouble. As the American Redoubt grows, such a service could be valuable indeed on the day TSHTF. Note that the FAA has strict requirements in place for such air ambulance activities in the present day.

Communications. Altitude is the friend of radio transmitters and a relay system could be set up with an airborne aircraft relaying signals from hundreds of miles away to a ground location under the aircraft. COMSEC when using this method is poor since there are hundreds of thousands of aviation radios out there and no encryption system is available, but it is an option to consider. This concept is of particular value in mountainous terrain, in which an aircraft operating over the peaks can relay line-of-sight signals from one side of a mountain range to the other.

Power. The alternators of most light aircraft can produce usable power for charging alternative-energy system batteries (28-volts between 60 and 100 amps) and if the airframe itself became unusable the engine can be removed and used as a ground power station (with appropriate modifications). In fact, some small military ground power units and generators use aircraft piston engines in exactly this way due to their simplicity and relative efficiency.

Some tasks will not be practical post-TEOTWAWKI:

• Close air support. As illustrated in the novel Patriots, these aircraft are built for light weight and low fuel burn, not for slugging it out in a combat theatre. The fuel lines, control cables, fuel tanks, and crew compartments are completely unshielded from attack and lack the self-sealing fuel tanks and fire suppression systems found on combat aircraft. They also leave the pilot or crew totally exposed to light arms fire and these aircraft would be easy prey for the most modest military aircraft or ground-based antiaircraft system. A weapon as simple as a belt-fed machinegun can destroy a light aircraft in a single burst. At best, these aircraft could be used in combat for scouting and communications relay while avoiding attention from hostile ground and air assets.
  
• Hauling a family of five and bags across the country. Light aircraft are exactly that- light. At best, a couple people with light BOBs can fit in an airplane that would meet a prepper's requirements. There are simply no aircraft out there that can land on short runways while carrying lots of people and bags, at least on a prepper's budget, which is why JWR's recommendation to live at your retreat is such a sound concept.

Conclusion
There are a number of factors to be considered that simply can't be covered here without re-writing a flying handbook. Light aircraft offer advantages to the prepper but should be dead last on the "list of lists" for preps, if they make the list at all. For those of us fortunate enough to own or have legal access to aircraft, they could be a boon to the prepper living far from a retreat, or in a post-TEOTWAWKI situation to assist in specific capacities. Bringing a licensed pilot who owns an aircraft into your retreat group could be a consideration when deciding on the skill sets and equipment needed at your retreat.

So you have successfully prepped for every possible SHTF or TEOTWAWKI situation, your house is completely off grid, you’ve stockpiled enough chow to feed you and everyone you know for three full years and you have amassed a huge arsenal of assault weapons and ammunition that is sufficient to put even your toddler in tactical gear, body armor and small arms for the next ten years of sustained combat operations. Everything should be good to go right?

So you’re sitting at work in your suit and tie and TEOTWAWKI just pops off, maybe it’s a rain of ICBMs hitting major American population centers, an EMP strike or any number of other situations. This is not the time to suddenly realize that you are eighty miles away from your homestead and are going to have to make it back to your house and family in a suit and tie with no supplies and no game plan.

The economy in recent years has forced many of us to drive an increasingly further and further distance from our homes in search of employment and nowadays many of us, regardless of what state we live in are forced to drive long commutes or even live outside of our home cities during the work week. The reality is that when and if a world changing event or even just a significant natural disaster hits, many of us will have to make a long and difficult trip home, utilizing a tiny amount of resources that we can pack into a car or carry on our backs. Simply shoving a seven day food and water supply along with a couple road flares into your trunk is not going to cut it and I’d like to suggest a more systematic approach to this situation.

First let’s take a look at your car, many of us drive all the way to our jobsite and even more of us at least drive it half way making it a valuable resource in the event we have to flee our workplace. Many of you probably drive rugged vehicles but for those of you (like me) who drive an economy car let me very quickly state that this vehicle is still an invaluable part of your escape and this advice has already been thought up with you in mind.

Your Car (or lack thereof)

No matter what you drive, it probably has a trunk and even if it doesn’t, it has a rear storage area, this piece of your car is what makes it highly useful, even if you have to ditch the thing after you get back to it. Think of this area of your car as the storage box on the Batmobile, it is a great spot to stow any number of tactical prepping equipment.

You might be saying “Hey, that is nonsense--anything I lock in my car can just get raided or looted whenever I have to park the thing during the day. First off, while it is true, anything you stow in the vehicle is subject to theft, let me go over some mitigating factors with you.

• Alarm the vehicle, with the noisiest alarm that you can get, the louder the better but make sure to adjust the sensitivity so it doesn’t just go off the moment a bird lands at it.
• Keep the exterior dirty or dusty, this decreases the likelihood it will appeal to the casual observer, remember thieves instinctively look for the shiniest piece of loot.
• Park the car a few spaces (but not directly next to) a nice car, the nicer the better but it has to be significantly nicer than yours (the dirt and some dings help this).
• Put on a club or other anti-theft device, no this will not keep your car from being stolen but it presents another “pain in the ass” for the would be criminal, thieves are lazy, they are going to pass up your car for the easy target.
• Park in a highly visible location, the more remote, the better environment it will be to spend time breaking into it, if it’s across from the entrance to a store or other reputable venue it will be less likely to get violated.
• Shave the lock on your trunk. Most auto-body places can do this for you and even if that EMP hits your key fob you can still get in via the manual trunk release in your car. The whole point is to make it just a little bit more annoying to get into; increasing your chances the thug in question will just move on.
• Install a strong box in your trunk, these are readily available and come in all sorts of dimensions, if you don’t find one you like they can be fabricated by most people with a little welding experience quite easily. Just make sure you bolt it into your trunk or back seat in such a way as the bolts can be removed when the box is open (in case you need to temporarily remove the box).
• Install secondary carrying belts inside this trunk or cargo area to hold pouches and other things, old canvas police web belts work great and cost between ten and twenty dollars, bolt them or clip them into place to increase the ergonomics of your storage space.
• Remove all items from the front of your vehicle and clean it, you guessed it, what does the empty interior of a clean car look like? Boring, that’s what it looks like, you want nothing to draw attention to the vehicle or its contents and nothing to suggest there is anything of value worth committing a crime to access.
•   Invest in some run flats if you can afford them, no one wants to change a tire when the world is ending because some teenager used the ensuing chaos to cause a little property damage.

Some things to store in your trunk include, but are not limited to:

• GPS receiver and a compass (redundancy is key with navigation).
• Maps of the state and cities you have to travel through on your commute (with highlighted routes and alternate routes to get home).
• 1 Small, lightweight bug out bag with some first aid supplies, utility knife, enough food and water to last you for the amount of time it will take you to get home should you have to ditch the vehicle. Other goodies for this are a magnesium bar and a Bic lighter, a set of silverware and a tin or titanium Sierra cup along with some 550 or Para cord.
• 1 change of clothes with appropriate warming layers, these should be nondescript and devoid of any logos or bright colors, you want to blend in.
• 1 pair of good running shoes or hiking boots depending on what type of terrain you will be traveling on.
• 1 small, concealable firearm with some spare magazines if you feel it is appropriate. Personally I wouldn’t want to be carrying a weapon at this stage of the game.
• Several one ounce silver coins and a few twenty dollar bills (if one of these is worthless, the other will still likely be accepted).
• A small GMRS radio and a hand held police scanner, both are for monitoring local events.
• Baby wipes and a small airplane bottle of Listerine mouthwash, there are a million reasons to have these; you can shower with them, clean out cuts, etc.

The point of having these things readily available is to smoothly transition from work attire to traveling / hiking kit as soon as you regain access to your vehicle. This however may be impossible or take longer than anticipated so on your person you should have some of the following items, get in the habit of keeping them in a gym bag or backpack, most of us carry some form of bag with us anyway, make some room.

Your Body
Depending on where you work some of this may or may not be practical, regardless of what you can or can’t carry with you here’s some basics to maintain the ability to quickly change into something you can travel in.

Keep a gym bag with a fresh change of socks and a set of running clothes along with a pair of lightweight sneakers if you regularly go to work in an office environment. This will doubly add an excuse to use the gym that is no doubt located somewhere in or near your office, benefiting you for obvious reasons. Additionally, you need laminated set of maps to get you from your office to your car with alternate routes all marked or highlighted.

An Altoids tin survival kit, you can easily design your own or download instructions on the internet; you’d be amazed at what will fit into an Altoids tin. Here’s what’s in mine:

• Bic mini lighter
• 1 alcohol prep wipe
• 1 dose (2 pills) of cold and flu medicine
• 1 porcelain spark plug shield broken into three pieces wrapped in sandwich wrap
• 1 4x4 inch sheet of aluminum foil folded twice
• 1 razor blade
• 1 handcuff key
• 1 piece of steel wool the size of a cotton ball
• 1 mini rake lock pick and tension bar
• 1 LED Flashlight
• 1 2x2 inch sheet of moleskin
• 1 sewing needle wrapped in non flavored dental floss or thin sewing thread

If it won’t close just secure it by wrapping 550 or Para cord along the outside to keep it shut, 550 cord always comes in handy. The contents are very versatile, you always need fire and a lighter cuts the messing around. Steel wool is the best kindling on earth and if you can’t start a fire with a Bic lighter and a cotton ball sized chunk of steel wool you need more help than I can provide you with.

The prep wipe can disinfect a wound, the razor blade can be used as a scalpel (sanitize with lighter), the sewing needle and thread or floss will let you do some crude stitches. If your feet end up being what fails you, the moleskin can be used to seal up blisters and cut to size with the razor blade after you have lanced them with the needle and drained them.

The cuff key, lock picks and porcelain may be against the law to carry where you live (check local laws first) but you never know when you might need to take off some cuffs, pick a door lock (very easy on many doors with some practice) or break through a window (the porcelain, when thrown into a car or store window will instantly shatter many types of window, this is a favorite trick of burglars and car thieves). [JWR Adds: These work best when projected by a slingshot such as a "Wrist Rocket." A folding slingshotis also a good stopper for small game and even marginal for self defense, with just a bit of practice. They are legal to possess even in most gun-deprived jurisdictions. When space and weight are at a premium, I recommend that a slingshot be second only to a versatile pocketknife, when prioritizing gear for your Get Home kit.]

DISCLAIMER: I am not telling you to break the law, but even if you are a cop during TEOTWAWKI or SHTF or even on a normal day at work you may find yourself in a situation where you might end up being locked up with your personal cuffs or someone else’s pair.

The lock picks and porcelain are the same story here, I am not telling you to commit a crime but if it comes down to being burned up in a fire because you can’t get to an exit fast enough, by all means, break a window and get out. The property owner will understand. The lock pick and tension bar are the same story, don’t use them to break the law but if you can use them to get into a door to hide from an angry rioting mob, by all means, the property owner will understand. This kit is designed specifically to survive, evade, resist and escape any number of nightmare scenarios, be a responsible adult and do the right thing.

Your Escape
Your escape is going to be much more complicated in reality than anything you can plan for but there are major mistakes you can avoid that will save you precious time and maybe even your life. On your map you need to highlight roads and alternate roads to get you from work to vehicle and vehicle to home but you must also realize your surroundings. Maybe you drive half way to your destination and then take some form of mass transit the rest of the way, driving out of the city you work in will not be an option, if the mass transit is also shut down, you are on foot.
  Even if you drive your car all the way to work, you still have to realize that driving may not be an option and that during any type of emergency, you will not be able to use main roads or even most side roads so alternate routes need to be planned and scouted in advance. Periodically along your route you should locate safe areas to go to ground and hide, just in case you need sleep, rest, etc you are going to want to know where you have the option of doing this on your journey, looking for a safe place to stitch up your wounds really sucks when your pouring blood, but if you have pre-designated way points along your route it will make life easier and give you landmarks to guide you on your way.

It may be feasible to cache (hide) small amounts of supplies along the way in various locations. Maybe there is a bus stop with a dirt lot behind it or an old parking lot you can conceal a small cache in, even if it’s just some bandages, a bottle of water and a granola bar inside a small PVC pipe with end caps, you may end up needing them and it never hurts to have options.

Alternate means of travel are critical, for example, in the city I work in, the roads are jammed up even on a good day, driving out in a disaster will not be feasible and I don’t even drive the whole way to work anyway, but there are ferry boats nearby that can easily get you out of the city in a hurry and would most likely still work even in the event of a major emergency.

While everyone else is hoofing it or driving out I will be riding a ferry boat if absolutely necessary to get outside the main city center. You must explore these alternate methods of escape, roads will get nasty quickly and the heat you will be subject to on a sunny day will make walking on them unbearable.

Get to your vehicle and stop to take a minute to sort everything out, that’s right, I am telling you to stop moving and assess your situation, take a break, drink some water, eat a granola bar and chill the heck out. Most likely you will have been running on pure adrenaline and terror for an extended period of time, you may have suffered injury or mental trauma and you are going to be in shock. Take a few minutes to get that animal part of your brain under control, accurately assess your options and make a good decision as to what needs to happen next.

Do not bother trying to contact your family at this point, if you are in a scenario that has caused you to flee your workplace, possibly on foot, you are probably in a situation where cell phone service will be overwhelmed, your best bet is to send a brief text message, something like: “safe, omw home” and try repeating it to alternate addresses a few times while you drink some water. You need to get your mind out of the stress zone so you can make good decisions, thinking about anything other than your immediate need to escape and protect yourself will make you distracted and lead to your death or injury.

Ideally you should speak to your entire family before hand and explain to them that if an emergency happens, they are to stay at home and not try to come get you that if you are alive you will be on your way home immediately and may not be able to call them. This will keep you from getting home only to find out your wife or husband has decided to drive into the mouth of whatever disaster after you.

After you have collected your thoughts, even if it takes awhile (less than an hour) and you are in full control of your emotions and judgment you need to snap yourself out of the daze you will be in and start moving, if you start to feel tired or yawn, this is your cue to move, it will mean that your body has relaxed and ceased pumping adrenaline into your body, stand up, stretch and get moving.

Use the car for as long as possible, drive on the shoulder, in ditches, over curbs etc, and get out of traffic, even if you are in a sedan you would be surprised how much off-roading can be done with casual disregard for your vehicle's paint job and quick decision making. Get the vehicle as far as you can and if you have to ditch it, get it off the road and into a position to where you can safely begin your hike. Grab your essential gear only; every pound will count if you end up doing twenty plus miles on foot, possibly in the sun.

If you have more water than you can carry, drink your surplus immediately, if you have too much surplus water to drink, drink as much as you can, urinate, drink some more and then go, water does you no good unless it’s in your body. Something simple you can carry for this is a single sugar and salt packet (like the one you get from fast food meals) mixed in a bottle of water the sugar/salt combo will give you a quick boost of electrolytes, kind of like drinking a Gatorade, drink this first and then drink some more water to dilute it in your system.

If you were astute enough to pack a Gatorade or other sports drink, drink it slowly, once you get half finished, fill it back up with water, shake it and drink it halfway again, fill it back up, shake and repeat as many times as needed to quench your thirst, diluting the mixture will help your body absorb the electrolytes and other goodies inside the sports drink, if you simply drink it all at once you will urinate out most of the ingredients before it can be absorbed by your body.

Be wary of people but do not be inhumane, you never know if a simple act of kindness will be what saves your life or your soul. What we do during a catastrophe is what determines if we retain our ability to be called human or civilized. I am not telling you to endanger yourself needlessly but if you have the ability to help another human being get back to their family who probably loves them and misses them the way yours does then you should do what you would want others to do for you. Circumstances could change quickly and the person you denied a drink of water to earlier in the day could be the doctor that splints your twisted ankle only hours later. Help your fellow man because of his need and not because of yours, help within your means and someone else may even help you.

As the saying goes “preventive medicine is the best medicine”, this can be said for many aspects in life. Why wait until something happens to fix it? Why not perform proper maintenance procedures so you don’t have to fix it? Frankly, before I became a prepper, I’ve always found this approach to be best. It can save you time, money, frustration. Even if something is going to break no matter what, with preventive procedures, you can sometimes see it coming, therefore fixing or changing a part. From a prepper’s perspective, preventive measures are a necessity. The U.S. military puts an emphasis on Preventive Maintenance Checks and Services (PMCS). Throughout the rest of this essay, all preventative measures will be termed PMCS.

Preventive Maintenance
When it comes to machinery, PMCS must take place. The last thing you need when disaster strikes is to hop in your bug out vehicle and realize you’re low on fuel and the battery is dead. When it comes to vehicles, generators, freezers, or anything that is a complicated system, you need to perform PMCS and keep a record of it. When it comes to vehicles, whether tractors, cars, pickups or SUVs, you can keep the record book with the vehicle. For items such as generators or tools, keep them in a filing cabinet for easy tracking. Some items that should be checked include:s
Oils/lube, Fuels, Filters
Belts, Batteries, Fuses
Plugs (spark or glow), Tires/wheels, Specialty tools
Check your owner’s manual or with the original company to find out when you should perform PMCS, with what specific parts, and where to find all of the proper parts and tools. When it comes to tools, they also need PMCS. Visually inspect all parts for cracks, tears, bends, or partial pieces. Simple tools such as a hammer will not help you if the head is ready to break off of the handle. Remember to sharpen blades and teeth, oil moving parts, and always clean and dry your tools to prevent rust.

Preventive Medicine
Once the SHTF, making appointments to see you doctor are probably not going to happen. Even if you have a medical professional in your group, some supplies will not be available. Those supplies that are available will eventually run out.

Dentistry: I personally am one of the worst when it comes to taking care of my teeth and gums. I’ve also paid for it. Brushing your teeth is not enough. You should brush your teeth first thing in the morning, in the afternoon, and before bed. Flossing needs to be a part of your brushing routine. Full flossing of every space should be done in the evening, prior to brushing. After flossing, use a mouthwash so you don’t push anything back into spaces, and then brush. Throughout the day most people have snacks. After eating, use dental soft picks. These can be purchased fairly cheap and are found at many stores.

Lifestyle: TEOTWAWKI or not, a healthy lifestyle should be sought. You don’t have to be a gym junkie either. Sports are a great way to get some exercise. Some prefer hiking or bicycling. The point is to be active and flexible. However, bulking up like Arnold doesn’t do you much good if you’re eating steaks and burgers, then finish it off with a smoke. While the science of nutrition is difficult to understand, there are some basics that make it easy. Check out mypyramid.gov to help plan better meals. This shouldn’t need to be said, but I’ll say it anyway: drop your bad habits! Tobacco is the big one, but anything else that you can’t handle in moderation. This could be alcohol, caffeine, or sweets.

Medicine: Take care of any health concerns now. Lifestyle changes can change some of these issues. Diabetes type 2 and high cholesterol are a few of the conditions that could be managed better, or even resolved, by lifestyle changes. For medical concerns that can’t be resolved be lifestyle changes should be looked at before it’s too late. If you’ve been putting off a surgery, you just might have to live with your current condition if the SHTF today. Make sure that you are updated on all of your medications and have a stockpile. If you have any sort of condition that requires an apparatus such as canes or braces make sure that you have extras or extra pieces. Most of us will be doing quite a bit of work outside. Have a good supply of lip balm, sunscreen, insect repellant, and foot powder. If you’re sunburned or have blisters on your feet, this makes survival rough. These are simple steps that you can take.

Sanitation: This section is extremely important for people that bug out somewhere where there is no house. This could be out in the woods or on someone’s property. The first is on defecation. One simple idea is the cat hole. The cat hole is good for on the move or for one person for no more than one day. Dig a hole 12 inches in diameter and 6-7 inches deep. Do your business in hole and cover it with the dirt that was removed. This is also helpful for OPSEC being that if it was out in the open, you may give away your location. If you plan to stick around a spot for one to three days, use a straddle trench. Dig out a rectangular area 1 foot wide, 4 feet long, and 3 feet deep. After use, cover the excrement only. Once the trench is filled to 6 inches below the ground, cover the rest with the remaining dirt. One trench is good for up to 25 people. I wouldn’t recommend a burnout barrel latrine unless you are in a large camp with security. Basically, somewhere where everyone knows you are there anyway. This consists of a wooden bench with a hole in it over the top of a metal barrel cut in half. All openings must be covered so vermin cannot get in. Once the barrel is half way filled, drag it out from the enclosure and at least 10 feet away. Add 3 inches of a fuel mixture containing one part gas and four parts diesel. Set on fire and monitor. Once all of the waste is gone, clean and sanitize the barrel and return it to the enclosure. When it comes to urination, this needs to be put into the ground as well. For males, dig out an area 4 feet wide, 4 feet long and 4 feet deep. Place metal tubes 8 inches into the pit and fill with stones and gravel. Place funnels on the tops of these tubes to be used as urinals. For females, construct the same pit but instead of pipes, use a barrel. Place it 8 inches into the pit with gravel underneath and around it. Place a wooden seat on top of the barrel.

For other liquid wastes such as bath water and dishwater, dig out another area that is 4 feet wide, 4 feet long, and 4 feet deep. Place a barrel with a perforated bottom 6 inches into the pit. Then dig out four trenches from the pit starting at one foot deep and ending at 2 feet deep. They need to be 6 feet long and one foot wide. Fill all of this with gravel. When it comes to trash, I don’t like the idea of burning. It is an announcement to people of where you are and what you may have. I also imagine that many people will be recycling and reusing heavily thus reducing the amount of trash produced. Start off with a pit that is 8x8x8 feet. As you dump your trash in, make sure to cover it with at least 6 inches of dirt. This will cover smells and hopefully deter vermin. Always make sure that all of your areas are clearly marked for present and past areas. You do not want to dig in an area that is filled with trash or excrement. Guidelines for latrines are 50 feet away from living/sleeping areas, 100 feet from water sources, and 300 feet from food storage/preparation areas. For garbage areas they need to be 100 feet from food storage/preparation areas and water sources. Always make sure that these areas drain away from water sources, on level ground, and well above water tables.

Food: Getting food poisoning is no fun. I’ve had it a few times. Always be aware of what you are eating. Just because something looks like a food you know, it may not be. It may also be poisonous. Wash all fruits and vegetables before consumption. Even if you are going to cook them, there could be critters or dirt on them. They may have pesticides as well. When it comes to meats here are some guidelines on cooking temperatures: beef, lamb, and goat needs to be 170 degrees in the center or until uniformly brown. Pork needs to be cooked at 165 degrees and until no longer pink. Poultry should be cooked at 170 degrees or until juices run clear. Fish needs to be cooked until 140 degrees or until it is flakey. Rabbits and squirrels should be cooked at 180 degrees. Cats and dogs? I’m hoping I won’t ever have to find out.

Water: If you aren’t lucky enough to have a filtration system there are some basic techniques that will make your water safe to drink. First up is boiling. Pass the water through a filter or fabric in order to get rid of sediment. Bring the water to a roaring boil for one minute. Once cooled, it is safe to drink. You can also use bleach. Use 8 drops per gallon if the water is mostly clear. If the water is mostly cloudy, use 16 drops of bleach. Once again, make sure to pass it through some sort of material as a filter first. Also, look at where you are getting water. If you come across two ponds and one of them have algae, mosquitoes and other wildlife that is probably the safe one. It’s the water source that has no life that should raise a red flag.

Preventive Measures
Security: Don’t wait until the SHTF to come up with a security plan. Start one now. Find out where certain positions will be and what weapons are needed. Figure out how you are going to set up your schedules.

Land: Every year property owners cut back their grass and trees and bushes because fire season is coming. This is something that should always be taken care of. Fires can happen any time of year. Look at your land and figure out where you are going to situate things. If you are going to put in more gardens or a trash pit after the SHTF, figure out where those places need to be now. Go so far as clearing those areas.

Investments: The US could face an economic collapse tomorrow, or in ten years. No one knows when it is coming but we all know that it will come. There is a lot to be said for investing in tangibles and stocking up on food and fuel. For preppers that are younger and are not already financially secure, food and fuel isn’t enough if you’re renting an apartment with no BOL and TEOTWAWKI is still fifty years out. I would first recommend getting a college education and a secure job. Learn how to make investments. The stock market may not be the greatest place to invest, but talk around to others that are knowledgeable and ask for advice.

Family and Friends: I had talked to my wife about prepping and to no surprise she thought I was crazy…at first. I approached her slowly and gradually showed her all of the problems in the world and how they could pan out. Then I introduced her to the scary thought of the “bad men.” She is the one who keeps asking me when I’m going to take her out shooting again. She wanted a garden in this year so she could practice. She came around. Make sure that you get your immediate family on track. When everything is falling apart around you, you do not want this to be the time to start talking prepping. Get your kids involved in prepping activities such as fishing, hunting, gardening, canning, and sewing. Also be aware that there are some people that will think you are nuts no matter what. These same people could be a danger to you before and during TEOTWAWKI. Make mental notes of who these people are and make sure to not talk “prep” with them.

Preventive actions are much like prepping. You are preparing for the worst, but making the best of it right now.

Dear Jim,
I disagree with [SurvivalBlog Editor at Large] Mike Williamson's opinion on boats as a bugging out survival alternative. With proper planning, thought and equipment selection; as well as the appropriate "ships stores", and with all the knowledge necessary to any other solution to the problem, the right boat will allow you to avoid many of the perceived problems associated with a complete breakdown of society. It's no easier or harder than any other subject, just different and less common. Just look at the volumes of material on your site, the problem is never solved and there is never a perfect solution; just new knowledge and different views. That having been said, I will agree with him in one area; the historical definition of a boat is: "A large hole in the water that you will continually try to fill with money"; particularly true if it's a "state of the art" recreational boat. The same may be said of a "cabin in the woods".

Let's look first at the benefits of a boat; not a ski-boat, pontoon boat, river boat, houseboat or little boat of any kind. Not a plastic "yacht" or it's dingy; not a sail boat smaller than 60' and not a small fishing boat or motor-sailor, but a "retired" commercial fishing trawler from 45 to 60 feet in length. You can buy one of these for conversion to private use for as little as $30,000 or as much as you can afford to spend. Most of these boats were constructed in the 1950s, 1960s or 1970s. These are real survival boats; not glitzy plastic floating condos, but rugged ocean going work boats. They are like a basic semi-truck versus a custom mini-van. Some are wood, some are steel and some are fiberglass; although the wood and steel versions are more common, and for this purpose wood is the most desirable. Why? Among many other reasons, wood floats and the other materials sink. You can hammer a nail or put a screw into wood with a screw driver and they will hold. It's not the case with either steel or fiberglass. Wooden boats are much easier to heat, and ride better in rough water. If you are not worried about cosmetics, you don't have to varnish them, paint them, or buff them (but you probably will). If a bullet or something else pierces the hull below the waterline, you can pound a tapered wood plug into the hole with a hammer to stop or slow the leak. All large boats leak, get used to it. That stray or directed bullet could damage something inside the boat, but it could do the same thing to your four wheeled BOV.

If you can keep fresh water (rain) out of the bilge, wooden boats won't rot below the water line. Salt water actually preserves the wooden hull. Any boat run aground, or into something below the surface can be damaged. Wooden boats are easier to fix, should that happen, than either fiberglass or steel. A little research into this will show you the pros and cons of each material, but my preference is wood, for this purpose. Most of these wooden fishing trawlers have hulls that are two structural layers of wood that are each 1" or more thick.

Most fishing trawlers of these lengths range in width (beam) from 13' to 18', have a pilot house above decks containing a small galley (usually with a diesel fired stove), head and sleeping quarters, a small engine room, very large fuel tanks (usually 2,000 or 3,000 gallons or more) and huge unused open spaces (fish holds) beneath decks. They generally don't have mouse driven computerized auto-pilots and electronic charting systems, although you can add them. The fish holds can be remodeled into sleeping quarters, heads, refrigerated storage, etc., etc., etc.                 

They ride deep in the water, and have a draft (the depth of the hull beneath the water) of 6' to 8' . Most have only one diesel engine, and one or more diesel generators. They travel slowly (about 7 to 9 knots) about 10 or 11 miles per hour. Some burn as little as 2 or 3 gallons of fuel per hour, giving them tremendous range. They are all powered by very reliable commercial diesel engines, and many often exceed 30,000 hours of operation between engine overhauls. They have tremendous load carrying capacity, with much more voluminous hulls than pleasure boats. They are built for function, not glitz or speed. Because of their deep draft, they are much safer than pleasure boats in rough water. In case you're wondering, there is no boat of this type that will outrun any pirate. The idea here is out of sight, out of mind. The ocean is a big place, without too many residents; shouldn't be too difficult to find a little privacy, and the vast majority of other boats will be looking for the same thing, not trying to take over yours. Boaters are used to assisting other boaters. When selecting a survival group, boaters may be a better choice than many others.

Volumes can be written on equipment and stores for a boat, but with the exception of a water maker and some other items that are unique to boats, it's not much different than equipping a retreat in the Rawles style. Employ the same thought processes to a boat. You can do it with the latest technology, or remember that it all worked before the latest and greatest "high tech invention", and still will. Grow boxes can be put on deck, dehydrated and canned foods-extra fuels below decks. Weapons are weapons, very little different here, although a negligent discharge here could "sink" your dreams. A power boat will eventually need fuel, just like any other vehicle that moves under its own power, although 3,000 gallons of fuel will last a long time, and won't go bad. If a sail is rigged onto a trawler, it can be called a motor-sailboat, and would be the best partial solution to this problem, but provide one more opportunity for mechanical failure and maintenance. (Another topic for another time.) Keep it simple, solve the problem. You're trying to survive, not dress up for the upcoming Obama ball; but wait --maybe we actually are.

If you don't like your neighbors, or the horde cometh, pull up anchor or untie from your moorings and leave. Once off shore, neither is as great a threat; but as with bugging out in any form, you must have a plan and know where you're bugging out to; you can't stay in the Bug Out Vehicle forever - no matter what it is. Some longer than others, a boat maybe the longest. Charts instead of maps, the terminology of equipment is different but solutions similar. When the initial upheaval passes, return with a plan, or stay in that little cove off the northwest inside passage a little longer. When you return you and yours will still be alive to worry about it and deal with it; whereas otherwise you may not. If your main interest is avoiding maintenance and investment in your survival, stay home in the basement and buy a couple of granola bars.

Remember, this type of "retreat" can be moved to avoid the crowd, whereas your little piece of heaven in northern Idaho, cannot. The down side is, this one can also be stolen or sunk. But that little cabin in the woods can be burned down, well poisoned, overrun and made uninhabitable. - Tom H.

 

James Wesley:
Just a quick note: Many of your readers may believe a boat is a good Bug Out Vehicle - and they may well be correct. The 1,000 Days web site chronicles the 'adventure' of living at sea for over 1,000 days.

This may be of interest to everyone planning long term food storage and related subjects. - D.E.K.

JWR Replies: My view of boats lies somewhere between yours and with Mike Williamson's. Properly, boats should be seen as means of transportation, rather than as retreats. They are vehicles, not destinations. Unless you have a truly viable intended destination (or preferably several), then except for millionaires, a "well-stocked" boat is just a great way to eventually starve. This is analogous to the many letters that I get from readers who say that they plan to equip RVs as their "alternative to buying a retreat". There simply isn't enough room for a three+ year food supply on most boats, and there certainly isn't enough deck space an to raise crops. Don't make the mistake of thinking that you can be self-sufficient on a boat. Your intended landfall(s)--preferably at an inland brackish water port--will be crucial. Without a good destination, with friends waiting there, the law of averages is sure to catch up with you.

Dear Jim,
My in laws had a 46-foot Dolphin Catamaran for a while.  This is in current dollars a near $1 million state of the art boat, with sails, diesel engines, GPS, auto-pilot, radios, staterooms, the works.

I've got moderate experience in several types of boats, from pocket fishing types to speed boats and small sport sailboats.

They were constantly having to replace "canvas" (usually nylon, fiberglass or Kevlar on boats these days), lines, electronics and do engine work.  Nearly every letter from aboard was about the latest round of maintenance, the need for safety lines while at sea (including a man overboard incident), rough weather, mechanical failures at sea, keeping watch during such problems.

Pontoon boats are a form of catamaran, and almost proof against swamping, unless shot full of holes, though that is fairly easy to do.  As I've noted previously, there's no cover nor concealment on open water.

Small boats carry almost nothing.

Large boats carry a lot less than many people think.

Unless one has a classic 18th Century wooden pinnace, with crew, including carpenters, maintenance is expensive, time consuming, and takes tools or a port.  On second thought, it does even then.

Life on a boat is not some happy-go-carefree existence of drifting along watching the lesser castes starve.  It requires, if anything, more work than a landed lifestyle.  If it was so cheap and easy, more people would do it.

If one has a definite bug out destination in mind, a boat would certainly be one means to consider.  It is not, however, the solution to any other problem.  It is a hole in the water that one must pour money into to maintain, even when not in use. That money can better be spent on beans, bullets and band aids, a chunk of land, tools, etc.

Like the "get a light plane and pilot's license" threads in SurvivalBlog in the past few years, there's much more involved than a casual glance suggests, and I believe even experienced boat owners are underestimating what's involved. 

I'd like to see comment on this subject from experienced Naval boat and ship handlers.  I suspect they'll be a lot less sanguine than many readers. - Michael Z. Williamson, SurvivalBlog Editor at Large

JWR,
I just wanted to share one note on the recent boat bug-out letter. There is actually one company I know of that makes fast pontoon boats (more of a combination speed/pontoon boat).

Check out Manitou Pontoon Boats.

I've seen some amazing video footage of these boats turning on a dime, and they have very high J.D. Power ratings. Note that I work for a company that does work for them, but don't gain anything from recommending them. - V.T.

 

JWR:
After reading the articles on watercraft and some of the great insight put forth, I need to throw out this for food for thought. During my years working in law enforcement, being in bad situations, and learning from outlaws while working undercover, they ways they think both as aggressor or defender,  you learn to think out different survival situations and their resulting solutions.  I have lived in 15 different states all over the mainland U.S. and Hawaii for the last 50 years.  

One survival scenario that reoccurs to me is the need to have a fallback retreat. One that has the best usage of terrain and gives the advantage to the defender.  In looking back thru history, high ground was always a primary consideration, but another that is seldom mentioned is the use of of  islands, whether they be in a river, lake,  sea scenario, or accessed over a bridge. 

No matter where I have lived, be it in the northern, southern, or coastal states, I have the ability to find a "castle with moat"  defensible areas that deserve consideration. My belief is that what I might lack in numbers can be made up for in a significant amount by the ability to make the assault on a island a lot more negative to a potential attacker.  I first discussed this option with friends in Northern New Mexico, while hunting deer, who during the hunting season would swim a half mile to an island in a large mountain lake in order to escape the hunters, we enjoyed their natural ability to escape a threat.   I always have felt do what nature provides to most animals, the instinct to survive by utilizing what's available to them.

There are plus and minus arguments for this scenario, but for a person needing to think and more importantly react beyond the Golden Horde's willingness to pick you as a target, you might want to need to consider this option.

1. Most islands be they in a river or a lake or even a coastal location, will be vacant, and able to be occupied in a time of need. This takes the use of a boat to a better level by getting you away from the ground pounders and out to position that cannot be attacked on foot or by a motor vehicle. In addition it reduces, or may eliminate a on foot stealth approach. It now requires a potential attacker to first secure a type of boat in order to get to you.  In a situation where people are in a firefight from a defensible position on land, versus a attacking group in a boat(s) my money goes with the defenders every time.   The thought of going against anyone while in any type of boat is a reality check to say the least.  
2. Most islands will contain trees, shrubs, as a means of concealment and maybe some wildlife as a potential food source. Also should you have some high ground on the island it may add even more advantages to your defensive chances.  You also will  have a endless water supply unless you pick a coastal island. 
3. A direct attack requires the attacker to win in the first attempt (my premise) as they will be open to continuous fire even in an attempted retreat.  I pity most people trying to go against a defensive group on land while they are attacking from a boat. I will show no quarter to anyone even if they give up and are retreating, as I do not want to fight them on another front.
4. Attacks at night pose even more problems for attackers then it does for defenders, I am not going to weigh in using night vision.   
5. Unlike a land retreat it will be almost impossible to probe or infiltrate the island and return with intelligence prior to an assault.  
6. Using dogs for perimeter warning -- an island ensures they will not be wandering off.   

On the negative side:

1. Requires you to bring most of what you may require for a long term siege situation.
2. You will be isolated, but that's applicable to most other options also.
3. Will have to maintain/retain the ability to move back to mainland after the threat is reduced or gone.
4. The ability to gather food, and other items are going to be limited.
5. Bug out from an island may be harder to do or limited.

I admit there are items not addressed here, but the intent is to bring more options to the awareness of everyone who is trying to "make do with what you have, where you are."  This is a no cost addition to you survival plans, other than some prior planning and locating. God bless this country, and all of you who now follow him or will in the future.

- John in Arizona 

Jim,
In reference to the article about using boats to bug out I have a few thoughts. The writer was very thorough about his facts and accurate as far as it goes.However, I have a few thoughts. As a former Officer of the U S Merchant Marine (12 years, ending as a 1st Mate, Unlimited Tonnage, Motor and Steam, Any Waters) I have had experience in most marine environments.

The biggest drawbacks to using a boat as a primary means of escaping are visibility, fuel consumption, and low speed. The writer covered a lot of this and this reply is not meant to disparage him, or to apply to those who live so close to waterways, or who are restricted in the number of ways they can move out of an area. If a boat is the best way, as, say, an alternate to a ferry or a congested two-lane bridge, then by all means, motor, sail or paddle away.

Boats literally drink fuel. All boats do. The physics of propelling a vessel against a mass of water requires it. And, unless you are bugging out in a cigarette boat, they are slow. As the writer points out, the faster you move, the more fuel you dump. And the type of emergencies that require you to “bug-out” most certainly wont be leaving fuel docks open for very long.

And then there are pirates. What else will you call thugs in boats that chase you to kill you and take your stuff? They will have go-fast boats. Count on that one. And its very hard to hide any kind of boat on any sort of body of water. Try it sometime.

Canoes and sailboats? Well, I have a canoe. A 15 foot, Kevlar-hulled rough water special. Will I use it? Its in my plans to utilize if need be. But next time you are cruising down some placid river somewhere in a canoe or small outboard, take a look at the banks.

How much can you observe of bottom-land timber and brush while watching for currents and obstructions? How long will you last against a guy with a rifle or shotgun firing from cover sitting out there in the open? I will say if you can make open water in a sailer, you may be okay for awhile. Unless some other runner has a faster vessel and sees you out there all alone and unable to move away.

All in all, hitting a river or other body of water in a boat to hide or make a run for your get-a-way is a real longshot. Stocking a pontoon barge for a night-only 2 or 3 day run somewhere is about the only way I'd even consider using one, except in the most extreme situations. - Ed in Mississippi

Let's look into the near future, when the Schumer has just hit the fan, or is just about to. You have no doubts that things are going to go heinously wrong, and not get better. Now what? The roads are likely jammed, even the rarely-used rural ones. Maybe rains have rendered the dirt roads impassable. You might be able to make it to your sanctuary/bug-out location/palace/bunker, but it will take more gasoline than you have to get there.

So – do you give up and resign yourself to be a walking refugee? Not necessarily. What about that big fishing rig you have trailered in your garage? What about all that boat of yours sitting down at the marina? So why not use that big river nearby to make your getaway?

I’m willing to wager that most preppers have, even in the extreme, carefully considered their car or truck, and have centered their plan around fitting everything into the back of the rig and driving down to your bunker, preferably far away from public highways and freeways. Am I right?
Now, if you live in most desert or heavily mountainous areas, this is probably not an option. However, if you live near a navigable river, this gives you an option that a lot of folks simply do not have, and you may want to at least consider it. Let’s look into this a bit deeper and I’ll show you why I think you should do so, and what to consider if you do decide to include boating in your escape plans.

Pros and Cons

Why to do it
Unlike moving around on a car, making your egress on a boat gives you a lot of advantages that you simply cannot get on dry land:

• No traffic jams once you’re out on the water.
• If your bug-out location is downstream, you won’t need a lot of gas to get there, if at all.
• If you have a sailboat and know how to use it, and the river is big enough, you don’t need gasoline most of the time, and have a far larger range.
• Even the most dirt-poor prepper can fill an old canoe full of supplies and get somewhere with it.
• An earthquake can slosh a river around, but at least it won’t bury you or render your route completely impassable (now near/on the ocean? Things may get dangerous – especially with Tsunami threats, but inland you’re generally in better shape, and the greatest danger will likely be seasickness).
• Everyone else in town will be too busy trying to drive out of town. If you plan it right, river egress will insure that you’re not going to be stuck behind sheet metal boxes full of anxious, panicked or near-panicked people all trying to get out of Dodge.
• Unlike that mega-prepped off-road beast of a truck, the parts are easier to maintain and improvise if you have to, and if you have a sailboat, won’t require too much in the way of petroleum to keep maintained.
• A good sailboat isn’t going to be disabled by any electromagnetic pulses.
• If the boat is big enough, you can literally live on the thing for as long as you have to. It also gives you something really important: more room to store critical stuff!

With advantages, come disadvantages. To be fair, let’s cover the important ones. After all, our favorite law-maker Mr. Murphy loves to get out on the water too, so…

Why not to do it

• If you own a motorboat and your bug-out location is far upstream, you’re going to need a whole lot of fuel to get to it. Fail to plan for this, and you’ll be out of gas and floating down river… right back to where you just escaped from.
• You have to either insure that your boat is pre-packed, or you’re going to have to transfer everything from truck to boat once you get there – the latter is probably not going to be fun, and will be a huge calorie/energy burn-off.
• If you screw up and wreck your car or truck, you can grab your stuff out of the wreck and still be able to take the vital items with you. But if you screw up and wreck your boat, odds are good that your stuff is going down with the boat. You can mitigate this somewhat (keep a small go-bag on deck within easy reach), but otherwise, if you wreck it hard, your stuff will either sink, or float down river for some other lucky guy to get their hands on.
• If you fail to plan ahead, you might get stuck behind a dam, lock, or other river hazard. (I will cover this later).
• If you fail to plan for alternative launch points, other folks may have the same idea, and that trusty old boat ramp you planned to use may be jammed full of people trying to do the same thing you’re trying to do (and at certain times of day/week/year, it may also be full of people trying to get their boats *out* of the water and get home). We’ll also cover this a bit later.
• If you live on the coast, your efforts may be frustrated by Tsunami, debris, and other things that will totally screw your plans over. Not the end, but something you have to plan for.
• If you live in an arid or semi-arid area, that river may be too low to safely navigate (or completely dry in places) during the dry season.
• Getting to the river in a panic situation is going to be a bit tougher what with that big, heavy trailer back there and all. You’re going to have to be a bit more careful than all of the panicked and careless people around you.
• It will take a lot more time to get from point A to B. Even a relatively fast boat won’t go much faster than the equivalent of 25 miles per hour (while this will be a lot faster than a car stuck in a massive traffic jam, it’s still pretty slow if you’re trying to escape a really bad situation).

Now consider all of that for a moment or four… I’ll wait. Oh, and while you’re thinking, keep one big thing foremost in your mind: You only get one shot at escaping town. Screw it up, and you won’t get another. Now, let’s take a moment to think…
(…cue some pleasant interlude music here… at least five minutes long. Seriously. Thinking hard now saves having to do it at a bad time later.)
All done? Good. If you decided to consider your boat (or hey – get one), awesome… read on. If not, then feel free to entertain yourself by reading on anyway.
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What to Consider First

Look at your route.  Are there any dams, locks, or low bridges along the way? How deep are the rivers, anyway? How wide are they? Do they have commercial traffic (barges, local cruise ships, cargo ships) on them? Are you going to pass or be in the way of the Navy or its bases (they may get touchy if you come too close to them)? Are there any well-known (and even not-as-well-known) hazards out there? Is there anything along the way that can foul your propeller (fishing nets, trotlines, heavy weeds/plants, etc)? Does any part of the route ice-up in the winter (and if so, how badly?)

Look at your entry and exit points. How close is your bug-out location to the river or waterway that you intend to use? How close is your boat (at home) to the location where you intend to drop the boat into the water? How many places are there nearby where you can launch your boat, with or without a boat ramp (remember, your boat is going to be rather heavy with all that stuff in it). Are you familiar with beaching a boat safely (well, at least long enough to get your family and all of your stuff off of it)? If you have it docked at a marina, you’ve saved yourself at least some trouble, but how close is that marina? Can you get to the marina in a hurry? Is the marina guarded well enough to pre-position most of your SHTF gear in it? How crowded is the marina, and how close is your boat to the jetty (err, marina exit)?

Look at your boat. How big is it? What is its maximum draft (depth below waterline when absolutely full)? What is the fuel efficiency if it has an engine? How fast can it go (remember, speed is measured in nautical miles per hour, or knots)? Can you put up a rain cover or other type of temporary shelter? Is it ocean-worthy? How much can you pack in there, anyway? What shape is it in – is it well-maintained? How much punishment are you sure it could take? (Note that I didn’t say “do you think”, but “are you sure”) How many people can you seriously carry along if you have it full of your SHTF gear? How much fresh water can it hold? When was its last tune-up? How quickly can you de-winterize it if you had to?

Finally, look at your own skills. Are you 100% familiar with your boat? Are you capable of fixing the motor if it breaks? If you have a sailboat, can you actually use it under sail? Could you launch it without using a boat-ramp? Can someone else (spouse, kids, etc) navigate/sail/fix the boat in a pinch?

What Kind of Boat?
I know… lots to think about. Take your time. If everything is still good to go, then let’s look at how to different types of boats will behave in a SHTF situation. I’m going to split this into a few different categories, so feel free to skip the ones that don’t apply to you. If you’re planning to actually buy a boat (for some other reason, I trust), then perhaps the following may help influence what else to look for in a boat beyond the primary reason (fishing, water-skiing, parties, etc).

Sailboats
If you have a sailboat, you’re actually in almost the best shape. As long as you can avoid underwater hazards that may break your keel, you’re good to go. Odds are almost 50/50 that a sailboat is kept at a marina, though a lot of this will depend on cost, size of boat, etc. You can trailer them, but launching will require a few extra steps.
A good first tip is to get to know (and I mean know very well) the prevailing wind patterns all along your intended route. Next, be sure you know how to actually sail, and keep your sails in top condition. An extra sail or two (and better, a kit to patch your sails with) would be an excellent investment.
If you have a boat large enough to be considered as a saltwater or ocean-going vessel, then your list of potential bug-out locations just got much larger. While I wouldn’t cross the Pacific in a 25’ sailboat, a sailboat that size can travel along the coastline in fairly good weather for hundreds, if not thousands of miles, depending on your supplies. You could conceivably get to South America with the thing if you had to, and East-coast residents could get to Canada *very* easily by traveling off the coast. If you intend to do this, just one thing – learn as much as you can about sailing and ocean navigation, and get your butt out there to rack up some experience doing it.
If your sailboat is trailered, you may want to consider launching it under various conditions well before a SHTF event begins in earnest. Sailboats with removable or retractable keels are more flexible.

Pleasure Motorboats
This includes most boats - from bass fishing boats, to ski boats, to big and average sized pleasure cruisers… these are boats you’re most likely to find parked in a suburban garage (just note that pontoon boats are something we’ll shove out to its own category).
For these boats, depending on size, you actually have a surprising amount of room to store things – in, on, and around the boat. Your main concerns however involve three things: range, speed, and keeping the motor(s) in top condition. In river/lake conditions, you will be best served by going downstream as much as you can, in order to increase your range. If your boat manufacturer sells auxiliary fuel takes, look into getting them – but know that if/when you do, you’ll be cutting down your storage space, so keep that in mind and balance the two.
Unlike sailboats (which generally have small motors for navigation) you will have speed and maneuverability. You can get around situations and objects more easily, and can move along far faster; while not even half as as fast as an automobile, your top speed is not half bad, especially once you consider how slow the freeway speeds will be during a mass unorganized evacuation.

The smaller boats, especially the open-hulled ones, have more flexibility than most when it comes to fuel and engine power, but be sure to balance your fuel supplies against storage space, and be sure that the motor’s horsepower isn’t larger than the hull is rated for (your boat should have this information on the nameplate). Also be sure to not exceed the maximum capacity of the boat – open hulls will take on water quite easily.
Outboard motors are far more flexible than inboard ones, but otherwise the only real difference is in how much horsepower the motor(s) have, and the additional storage space an outboard motor will give you (as opposed to the space taken up by the engine if it’s inside the hull).
Overall, as long as your bug-out location is near water, and you can get your boat launched quickly, even if it happens during a mass panic, you’re in pretty good shape.

Pontoon Boats
You know what these things are – the big ‘party barge’ boats that can carry an amazing number of people (or stuff) per square foot. They usually have a lot of fuel, and can carry a lot of stuff. With their generally shallow draft, they can get into some very shallow water without getting hung up. They also have a lot of features that would make things relatively comfy in a SHTF situation: perhaps a propane grill, a refrigerator, something to keep the rain and sun off of you, etc.

But… while you may start thinking that this would be the best type of boat to have and use, the truth is going to be ugly… these are going to be the toughest type of boat to use when you’re busy bugging-out. There are three reasons for this: First, these boats are made for leisurely cruising, so they can be painfully slow when compared to most other types of motorboat, even at top speed (which in the Pontoon’s case will burn fuel at a horrendous rate). Second, even though you can get a whole lot of stuff packed onto one, it’s all contributing towards making the pontoon boat top-heavy – so you have to be a lot more careful about what you pack, where it all gets packed, and how you pack it. Third, if the water or the weather gets really rough, you’re in the greatest danger (next to a canoe) of getting swamped, and even in milder conditions, you stand a good chance of getting you and your stuff quite wet from spray. While tenting/tarping and similar accessories will mitigate this, the design leaves you quite exposed overall.

The good news is that these boats can be the easiest to launch and beach, due to their very shallow draft. If your route is fairly calm and relatively free of nautical traffic, you can pack a lot of things on one and get to where you need to go - so long as your destination is within range and you don’t go nuts with the throttle.

Canoes, Kayaks, and Personal Watercraft
Canoes and Kayaks are actually quite an awesome way to bug out if you think about it – you can get to places that no other boat can even hope to touch, and as a bonus, you can portage the canoe or kayak from one waterway to another. It also takes up very little room in your garage. Launching one doesn’t require a boat