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Letter Re: Canadian Gun Shows--Behind The Power Curve
James,
Just sending this letter as a quick update to the situation with ammunition
and "black
guns" or defensive weapons in Canada. Contrary to what many people think,
Canada does allow citizens to get licensed and own firearms of most types.
Basically anything except full auto weapons unless you previously owned one
years ago and were grandfathered after that particular portion of Nazi legislation
was implemented.
This last weekend I was fortunate to attend Canada's largest gun show in western
Canada located in Cow Town, Calgary, Alberta. This gun show is nothing compared
to the big shows across many of the US States (about 500 tables) however, none
the less, it is an opportunity to meet with all the big vendors from across
the country and pick up ammo and supplies with cash for OPSEC reasons,
while you still can.
Its interesting to note that like the USA, supplies are rapidly drying up as
far as defensive firearms, loaded ammo and reloading components but not yet
reaching the levels of devastation as seen in the USA., yet.
What we are seeing is this, because of the lag time with bureaucratic red tape
processing of ammunition
and firearms coming into Canada
from the USA, there are a number of good-sized stockpiles of ammo and firearms
that are still trickling through Canada Customs and into the local guns shops
six months after the orders were placed which was about the time the supply
runs began in the USA. I fear however that this will very soon no longer be
the case due to the supply issues south of the border. For those in the know,
we recognize that our window of opportunity to purchase such items is rapidly
coming to a close. Massive supply runs have not yet begun, however supplies
are drying up rapidly as preppers and those ahead of the ball are consuming
the majority of the common calibers and associated reloading components.
Also very interesting: The vast majority of gun shop
owners and vendors up here are completely asleep at the wheel where the supply
issues are concerned. Many of them actually think that the delivery trucks
will always be there to bring stock for their shelves. I've actually heard
comments
from such people as this "The government will not allow this to happen
as it will hurt the firearms industry". What have they been smoking?
When I was at the show in Calgary this last weekend, it was rather humorous
to approach many of the vendors who had the only significant quantities of
the major calibers of ammo at this show (.45 ACP, .40 S&W , 9mm , .223,
etc) and simply walk up to them, ask them how much for case lots of ammunition
and then actually haggle with them and eventually purchase it at a much lower
price than they were originally asking. If these folks knew that their supply
was near complete extinction they wouldn't even be selling it or would at least
jack the price in accordance with the principles of supply and demand. But
it was great for me, though. No complaints.
It was a good show where Canada was concerned, mainly because we mopped up
what the golden horde was willing to trade for soon to be useless paper dollars
(big laughs over that) and we were able to get the supplies that we know will
soon be gone. We have reason to believe that the last of those cross-border
ammunition imports might be done and over with and we will shortly see panic
hit the regular gun crowd in Canada who will be left to fight over the odd
box of shotgun slugs and pistol rounds at best.
Thanks for all you do. I hope this information is of interest to fellow Canadian
SurvivalBlog readers.
-
Luke
Duke
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Letter Re: Knob Creek Report on Ammunition, Magazines, and Parts
Jim,
I just got back from attending the Knob Creek Machine Gun Shoot near Fort Knox,
Kentucky. I have never seen the ammo situation as bad there as it was on April
3rd to April 5th. I took four other people that have never been there and told
them that they would
be able to satisfy their needs at this show over any other. Boy, was I wrong!
Supply on certain items was either non existent or had decreased dramatically.
Several nationwide ammo dealers didn’t even show up and I have seen them
there for 10 consecutive years.
9mm +P+ Israeli SMG ball or tracer – last November.was $100 now $150 per thousand
(Pat's Reloading told me that they had gone through four Semi-trailer loads
of the stuff and this was nearing the end of it.) I loved this stuff because
I
couldn’t
even touch the components for $100, especially tracer.
.223 Israeli ball was $375 per thousand at Pats reloading
.223 Israeli tracer was oddly less expensive than
ball at $149 per 500. I looked through mine and about 10% appears to be Lake
City (early to mid-1990s). Purchased
at Pat's Reloading
.223 Federal 2008 production XM193 was $450 per 500. Don’t even think
about what that equates to, "per case".
9mm was in somewhat short supply. I heard one supplier tell a customer that
he brought two pallet loads with him, but the dealers bought it all before
the show even opened.
7.62x39 Last November Golden Tiger was $180 a case. I didn’t see one
single case of the stuff and Wolf was $300 a case.
7.62x54R was holding steady at $160 for two sealed tins (about 880 rds)
30-06 Greek sealed tins of 240 rds was up from $59 to $100.
.308 South African $90 per battle pack of 200 rds.
While there was some pistol ammo, it was not stacked up by the pallet load
as usual and self defense loads were either in short supply or exorbitant in
price. I did somehow manage to stumble into some Blazer nickel plated case
165 grain solid point 40 S&W ammo for $15 per 50 and some .223 IMG (Guatemalan)
that was boxed but tarnished for $375 per 1,200 round case. Time to dig out
the reloader and supplies.
On the Magazine front, nearly all [of the once inexpensive and plentifull magazines]
now have jacked up [prices].
DSA still had nice metric FAL mags for $7 and 30 round [.308 L4] Bren gun mags
that fit FALs (inch and metric) for $30. I would have bought some but I am
still
mad at them at playing "the DSA waiting game" for some [FAL] receivers. I have
waited on two of those receivers now for going on a year, continually being
promised that they
"have
them in stock", and being sent my money back twice. This is my
forth go around with them 1997, 2001, 2003 with only one [order] being successful.
[Minor rant snipped.]
AK magazines: still some around for $12
G3 aluminum mags $5
[HK] G3 steel and CETME were all $15 except for one guy who still had them
for $5
Cope's Distributing was completely out of the used (law enforcement trade-in)
Glock and SIG magazines that they formerly had for $10 each. They did have
some KCI Korean Glock
magazines
for
$12
that looked respectable and see to have a good reputation so far.
SVD and Romak 3 mags had dropped from $100 to $60 (for a 4-pack) in November.
Now back up to $85.
AR parts kits were in short supply. Model 1 sales sent a reduced table and
barely had anything. a FFL dealer behind me at the Doublestar/J&T Distributing
table told me he had bought 55 full kits from Model 1 Sales and he would be
sold out in 2-3 weeks so he was buying more from J&T. The owner of J&T
told me that she ran out of stuff before the show even opened to the public
and had to send a van back to load up with more stuff. J&T’s cheapest
kit was $555 without a chrome bore. They sold out of kits by noon and were
going to have to send another van back for more.
On the AR-15 lower receiver front, a FFL dealer friend of mine there told me
that the log jam for receivers appeared to have eased as he was able to buy
them
for
$88 wholesale once again and take delivery in a reasonable amount of time.
On the whole, the current situation seems to favor those moving into the AK-74
realm. AK-74 kits were $495, receiver flats were $12, transferable receivers
were $60 and the ammo was $300 per 1,300 rds (in sealed tins). There never
seems to be much competition for that ammo. I am thinking about getting a 5.45mm
AK.
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My Initial Experiences with Concealed Carry, by AceHigh
As I started my journey into preparedness, one of the areas I pursued was getting
my Concealed Carry Weapons (CCW) license (sometimes called Concealed Handgun
License (CHL) or Concealed Carry License (CCL)). I thought it might be helpful
to Survival Blog readers to share my recent experiences related to obtaining
my CCW license and getting to a point where I felt comfortable carrying a
concealed weapon in public. I know there is some concern regarding obtaining
a license that puts you on record as a gun owner/carrier, but that is the
trade off of being able to legally defend yourself and is a decision each
of us must make.
In a full TEOTWAWKI situation, concealed carry is likely not much of an issue,
as most everyone will be carrying openly. However, it is possible, if not likely,
that a less than full TEOTWAWKI will occur where there is increasingly more
crime and yet some semblance of law enforcement is still in place. This limbo
between where we are today and complete lawlessness may last a long time. You
could be considered a criminal by illegally carrying a concealed weapon for
self protection.
First, a little background regarding CCW. Most states are either “shall
issue” or “may issue” in regard to CCW licenses (nice of
them to offer something already provided for by the Second Amendment). Both
Illinois and Wisconsin do not allow concealed carry at all and a few other “nanny” states
(California, New York, New Jersey, etc.) are “may issue” and only
provide licenses in very limited circumstances. There is a complicated set
of state reciprocity (which states will honor another states license), especially
considering that many states offer non-resident permits and a few states only
honor resident permits. The best source I have found to understand the laws
pertaining to individual states is the HandgunLaw.us
web site. Even though
there are sporadic attempts to nationalize concealed carry, I do not believe
this
will
happen which is probably a good thing (the federal government, especially the
current one, would likely make things much worse).
I applied for and subsequently received my CCW license about 18 months ago
in Idaho, my state of residence. My first several months of carrying a concealed
weapon was limited to having my gun in the car (in a somewhat hidden spot)
anytime
I left the house. My concern was that, even though I had some experience shooting
handguns and rifles, actually carrying a weapon in public carries a high level
of responsibility and I did not have enough confidence in my ability in handling
the weapon or in having the proper mindset as to how to respond to the variety
of situations that could present themselves.
I made one of the best decisions of my life when I attended the Four
Day Defensive Handgun class at Front Sight. Not only did those very intense four days enable
me to gain familiarity and confidence in handling my Glock 23 but started me
down the road to good marksmanship. The range work (about 75% of the class)
focused on gun handling safety, proper mechanics for drawing the gun and shooting,
and shooting accuracy. Just as important was the classroom work at Front Sight
where they discussed a wide range of topics related to self defense, including
the legal ramifications of even a justified shooting and the color codes of
awareness. The most important thing presented was that you should only present
your weapon if you are in fear for your life or grave bodily harm and, if you
do present your weapon, you should be prepared to shoot until the threat is
stopped. This may sound simple but there are many shades of gray here that
each individual must come to grips with.
One of these gray areas involves protecting others. Of course, there is no
question regarding protecting my family who would get a higher priority than
even myself. My personal decision is that I would also use deadly force to
protect my friends. Here is where it starts to get gray. Do you protect acquaintances
or strangers? While it would be very difficult to stand by and let someone
be harmed or killed when you could have done something to stop it, the real
issue is: Do you know enough of the circumstances about the event? How do you
know for sure who the bad guy is? Is the person holding the gun seeming to
threaten someone an off duty cop or even another CCW who is restraining a bad
guy? You certainly cannot count on presenting your weapon to get everyone to
stop until it can be sorted out. Chances are pretty good that the bad guy (or
the off duty cop) holding the gun will not surrender and you will either be
shot or have to shoot them.
Another gray area is: how far do you go to protect your stuff? You are only
legally able to shoot someone if you are in fear of your life or grave bodily
harm. In most states, you cannot legally shoot someone who is just taking your
stuff. For example, if someone pulls a gun (or knife) on you and demands your
wallet, you could shoot them if you were in fear for your life. However, if
you see someone stealing you car and you shoot them while they are driving
away; you are likely in deep trouble. An exception (in most states),
called the Castle Doctrine, is that you do not have to be in fear for your
life if
the bad guy is inside your house. Be sure to check your state
laws on use of force!
Prior to the class, I had begun to read the defensive handgun forums primarily
regarding hypothetical and actual defensive scenarios. I highly recommend these
forums. My favorites are: Defensive
Carry Forum, Concealed
Carry Forum,
and the Glock
Carry Forum. Even though there are many different
opinions expressed on these forums, hearing them helps to solidify your own
mindset
as to what you would do in a variety of situations. It is important to think
this through thoroughly prior to carrying a weapon because there will likely
not be time to do so when a situation arises.
The main point is that you need to go out of your way to avoid a gunfight.
This is illustrated by the fact that in a gunfight, you risk everything (including
your life) and don’t win anything. The ramifications to your life of
even a good shooting are such that it is something to be avoided if at all
possible. Those ramifications can include financial ruin, losing your job,
tarnishing your reputation (at least among the non-violent types), or even
incarceration. Now that I am armed, I am more able to resist the macho urge
to stand up to someone because I know that escalation could be deadly. It also
doesn’t hurt to have witnesses that say you tried to walk away or de-escalate
the situation in case the unavoidable does happen.
After attending the Front Sight class, I made the leap and started carrying
in public all of the time. This is where you start to figure out the type and
manufacturer of holster which is going to work best for you. Most people end
up with a drawer full of holsters since it is difficult to evaluate a holster
without wearing it with different clothing options and sometimes in different
positions for some period of time. Again, the defensive handgun forums can
provide a wealth of opinions regarding the variety of holsters available. Some
holsters are adjustable for height and/or cant, which make them more versatile
but also extend the time to figure out the most comfortable concealed position.
I could write many pages on all of the options and types of holsters available
since I did considerable research and tried many of them personally.
To simplify, the most common holsters are either OWB (outside the waistband)
or IWB (inside the waistband). They can be worn in various positions (usually
described but referencing the numbers on a clock with straight ahead being
12:00). Many people carry “behind the hip” at 4:00-5:00 (for right
handed people) or 7:00-8:00 (for left handed people) with some amount of forward
cant (grip of gun forward and barrel angled toward the rear). That cant (typically
10-20%) allows for a more natural grip on the gun for drawing from that position
as well as provides better concealment than a straight drop. I could never
get comfortable with this behind the hip position, maybe because I am not very
limber and I have bad shoulders making it difficult to reach behind my hip
both for getting the holster positioned initially and for access to the gun
when needed.
The 3:00 position allows for a straight draw and is the most comfortable, even
when sitting. Since it is on the apex of your hip/waist, it is a little more
difficult to conceal but is a good option in winter when jackets and coats
are common. You just need to make sure that you won’t be put into a position
where you will need to remove your cover garment. I have found that a fleece
vest works very well to conceal a handgun at 3:00 and you can still wear and
remove a heavier coat and keep your weapon concealed.
I have gravitated toward “appendix carry” at about 1:00-2:00 using
an IWB holster, especially in the summer. It allows for excellent concealability
and access and can be concealed with just a light shirt. This position also
allows you to be able to visually make sure you are not “printing” (outline
of the gun showing through your clothes). There are a large number of IWB holsters
available and some of them allow a shirt to be tucked in between the pants
and the top of the gun if you need to have your shirt tucked in. I did have
to go up one size in pants to accommodate the holster and gun being inside
the waistband.
Cross draw is another option and works well for people who spend a lot of time
driving. Other options that have drawbacks but may be useful for some people
include SOB (small
of back) holsters, shoulder holsters, and ankle holsters.[JWR Adds: As
previously mentioned in SurvivalBlog I consider SOB holsters too much of a
risk for back
injuries, particularly for anyone on horseback, or that is riding motorcycles
or ATVs.]
I use a fanny pack (worn in the front) sometimes, especially when hiking.
A
fanny
pack
in
public
tends
to scream “gun” to
most law enforcement and some bad guys. For women, carrying in a purse is an
obvious
choice. However,
you have to be very careful not to set it down anywhere where someone else
could get access to it. A purse can also be the target of someone trying to
snatch it, which not only deprives you of your means of self defense but gives
your weapon to your attacker. There are other options that each individual
should look into to meet their specific need.
To maintain and even improve the level of proficiency gained at Front
Sight, there are a few approaches. The obvious one is to do a lot of shooting.
With the cost of ammunition these days, this can be very expensive. A .22 conversion
kit for your carry gun will help to minimize the cost of putting a lot of rounds
down range. An alternative is to mix in dry practice. Personally, I like to
try to maintain 10%-20% of my practice time as live fire but sometimes that
is even difficult to achieve. Dry practice can help to maintain muscle memory
for drawing, sight acquisition, trigger pull, and even malfunction clearing.
An obvious important safety concern when dry practicing is to absolutely
insure that the gun is unloaded. I know that sounds pretty basic but a clear delineation
of
starting
and stopping
dry practice will help to eliminate a very bad experience of a
negligent discharge. Unload the gun and double check that it is unloaded. Then
remove all ammo from the dry practice area. Check again to make sure the gun
is unloaded. Even then, make sure you dry practice target has a good backstop
and make sure you never point the gun at anything you would not want to destroy.
At the end of the dry practice session, remove any dry practice targets, load
and holster the weapon, and go as far as to say out loud, “The weapon
is loaded and dry practice is over.”
I have applied for and am awaiting receipt of my Utah non-resident permit which
will make me legal in more states (33 states in total). I am also planning
to attend Front Sight again in a few weeks and take the Four Day Practical
Rifle class to gain more proficiency with my battle rifle. I even talked my
wife
into taking the Four
Day Defensive Handgun class at the same time. - AceHigh in Idaho
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Letter Re: Lessons Learned by the Victim of a Home Burglary
Jim,
I’m writing you today after our rural home/retreat was broken into while
we were at work. I thought it would never happen to me, Oh, was
I so very wrong. First things first, thank you for convincing me to purchase
a safe and after reading the suggestion many times in you blog I eventually
bolted it down. This is the only thing that saved me from losing the
safe and all of its contents. The Sheriff told me of another burglary
where the didn’t have his very large ("they can’t
move it--its too heavy") safe bolted down and they took the whole thing.
After much thinking, online research and discussions with the local locksmith/safe
dealer with 40 years of experience, I have some suggestions that may be of use
to my fellow SurvivalBlog readers:
ANCHOR YOUR SAFE!!! I cannot stress this enough. I had a fairly
low end safe and they were not able to get into it (they almost did) nor were
they able get it out of the house. The Sheriff's deputy estimated they worked
on it for two to three hours to no avail. These thieves tore a wall out to try to gain more access to it.
I have decided that a safe is my final line of defense from a burglar.
First thing, put gates at the entrance to your retreat and lock them as I now
have. Put all tools out of sight as the thieves used my hammers, pry bars to
work on the safe. Reinforce the door jambs in your home. I have added 3-inch
screws to the door hinges and a steel plate behind the striker plates with
3 inch screws. If your budget permits add an alarm with an outside strobe light.
This may or may not help depending on where your home is located. We are on
a paved county road with our retired neighbor who has a line of sight to our
home a quarter mile away. If it would happen again our neighbor would be there
in short order. As for dogs, I don’t know, I have three and they did
not stop them. From what I have gathered unless you have a trained security
dog they don’t help
much, they just kick them out the door and go about their business. Don’t leave
keys/combinations in your home while away. They opened every cabinet door,
drawer, trunk, dresser, night stand, picture frames and closet in the house
and emptied them. There was only one cabinet door they didn’t open which
was the one with my truck keys in it which was in the driveway.
Don’t put anything in or under the beds, ours were all flipped upside
down. Don’t leave any firearms out and loaded while away, you don’t
want to come home and be confronted by your own weapon in the hands of a criminal.
Do what you can now before a burglary to make your home less inviting
to a thief. If they want in they will get in
given enough time. I feel bad saying this but if your neighbors’ home is less secure than yours they will go visit your neighbor. My worry now
is they have been in my home, will they be back since they know I may have
something worth getting.
After a lengthy discussion with the locksmith/safe technician. The strongest
way to secure to concrete is the Powers/Rawl brand wedge bolt +. Don’t
use the lead "bullets" or drive in anchors. He told me a story of removing
16 safes for a chain of stores that were bolted down with these style anchors.
If you can get a pry bar started under one corner you can pull them right out. The wedge bolts cut threads in the concrete with no inserts.
He stated you will pull the floor out of the safe before the anchors pull out.
If you’re anchoring to a wood floor and you have an unfinished basement
you should use a steel plate. Use 1/8” or 3/16” [thick] flat steel
plate large enough to catch at least three floor joists. Screw the plate to
the bottom
of the floor joist. Use an extra-long drill bit to drill down from the safe
thru the steel plate. Get hardened bolts long enough to be installed from the
bottom, cut a piece of pipe slightly larger than the bolt but shorter than
the floor joist is tall and slide it over the bolt as you are installing it.
This will make it very difficult to cut the bolts as the pipe will spin freely
on the bolt. Be sure to "double nut" them inside the safe. The last step is to weld the bolt heads to the steel
plate.
Thanks for all the good information on your blog. I hope maybe someone reading
your blog my find some of this info useful and maybe prevent someone from entering
their home. I didn’t sleep well for a week, the
wife and I are still a little on edge and everyone who drives by is suspect!
This makes you feel very insecure knowing someone has been in your home and
went thru all your things. I wish I would have made our place more secure before
and maybe this would never have happened! The Sheriff told me this is getting
much more frequent and I agree it will get worse. God Bless, - Jason in Missouri.
JWR Replies: Thanks for that letter, Jason! Hopefully it
will motivate folks to up their level of home security and vigilance. I agree
that the home gun safe should be the last line of defense. One intermediate
line
of
defense
is concealment.
Burglars cannot attack a safe if they don't know it exists. See
the SurvivalBlog archives
for a variety
of articles and letters that discuss hidden rooms, such as this
one, or this
one, both from
2007.
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Three Letters Re: The Feeding Frenzy Continues--Gun Store Shelves are Depleted
JWR:
I saw the article on how Cabela’s shares surged based on gun sales.
Let me tell you, we are in the midst of a feeding frenzy here in Colorado.
First, its not just guns, its all of the accessories as well. I had to return
some items from Christmas to Sportsman’s Warehouse and found that the
whole gun department was basically empty. They only had some black powder firearms
and a couple of shotguns. Nothing else. I had run into this before Christmas
when I bought my two oldest boys new elk rifles – and got the last .308
bolt action and the last .30-06 bolt action to be had. But I figured after Christmas things would be better. Well, they
are not. So unless you shoot something
odd like a .22-250 forget getting ammunition right now let alone a gun. And
the cleaning kits were sold out as well. And holsters, ammo belts – you
name it and if it was shooting related it was gone.
Now in my wanderings in the store I also found that communications
gear is also disappearing off the shelves. I had a brief conversation with the kid
that was working there and it turns out that this is another trend they are
seeing. Basically all of the walkie-talkie units that can take ear buds or
microphones are gone. The only things left are some cheap FRS units. The same
thing was at work with the flashlights – all of the better units (like
the Surefire models) were gone. I begin to wonder what is at work here – am
I being paranoid or is this the next run on “near tactical” equipment?
Now I shoot as much as I can when I am in country so I go through a lot of
reloading supplies and bulk ammunition. I have been told by some of the national
dealers that I buy from (in bulk lots of 10 cases per caliber per order) that
they are almost all sold out as well. One sales person related to me that they
had run through over 10,000 cases of .223 that week alone and could not keep
any in stock. Common calibers are gone – 9mm, .45 ACP, .38/.357, .223,
.308, 7.62x39 – and less common ones such as the .40 are hard to get.
So unless you happen to be shooting something that is very uncommon, keep your
eyes open. I did however with a week of scrounging manage to come up with
one box of 7.62 match grade ammo – the 175 grain M118 loading. Fortunately
my long range precision gun likes this ammo so I bought it.
This is one trend that if you were not way out in front and loading up on ammunition,
guns, and accessories, you would not be able to catch up now. - Hugh D.
Hi Jim,
FYI, just got done shopping at Midway [for ammunition handloading components]
and all of the .308 150 grain soft nosed bullets priced at $25.00/100 and
under are
gone.
All
gone!
This
includes
all round
nose and flat point for 30-30. Only some of the
premium stuff is available. The next best
deal is a Lapua 150 grain at $42.00/100. Guess I'll have to top off with
the only decent spitzer, a 125 grain Sierra Pro-Hunter at $22/100 if I can't
find 150 grainers
elsewhere. I suppose these can be reliable through a[n M1]
Garand and are
certainly adequate for deer. I've also shopped all over for loaded 9mm Luger
JHP and
it's all gone as well. Yes I shoulda got the XD-.45 instead,
yet common ammunition that can be shared with the rest of the family and
in case the gun fails
the ammo would not be wasted. I have plenty, but more would be nice. The
same can be said for the cheap 7.62x39 and M2 ball (.30-06). All gone, everywhere.
There does appear to be some 7.62 NATO out
there.
Cabela's seems to have a fair selection of all .308 spire point bullets
and 9mm/.45ACP
JHP,
and a very limited amount (500 rounds) of the cheap 7.62x39, and limited
quantities
of .223 and .308.
The run on ammunition continues and is amazing. A report from the latest
gun show in our area described [buyers with] dollies stacked with cases
that emptied the place within
three hours. What is the most shocking is that reloading components are also
disappearing. - E.L.
Jim:
News of the [U.S.]Attorney General asking for renewal of the Assault Weapons
ban (on behalf of Obama) went out across the Internet last night [Wednesday,
Feb.
25th.] Here was the result I saw: There was a line of about eight guys
in front of my local gun shop this morning, waiting for the doors to open.
This was at 9 a.m. on a Thursday morning, mind you. I was one of them.
Most of the guys looked to be in their 30s and 40s--so we were taking time
away from work to be there. (In my case, it was a "dental emergency".
Obama has
me grinding my teeth at night!) We got in the door, and I immediately saw there
wasn't much left on the shelves--mostly just pump [shot]guns
and
bolt-action
[rifle]s.
There
were
just
two centerfire semi[automatic]s in the rack: some POS no-name
AK that
looked like it was built from a beater parts kit, and one of those woosie S&W AR[-15] clones
with no flash hider on but with the Mossy-Breakup camouflage
paint job. Those both sold in the first few minutes. The owner said that he
doesn't
expect
[to
receive] any more black
guns for three or four months!
One thing you definitely
had nailed: They did not have a single high-cap magazine
left in the store,
except the
one
that
came
in the
mag well of the AK I mentioned.
I cleaned out the last of their .45
and .308 ammo--just a few boxes. There was not a round of 9mm, .223, of
7.62 [x39mm] Russian to be found. Those was some slim pickin's! I wonder:
What will they have
left by
Saturday night? - Ray H. in Virginia
« Letter Re: Real World Observations on Fighting Crime and Criminals |Main| Note from JWR: »
Depression Proof Jobs for a 20 Year Depression - Part 2: Developing a Home-Based Business
Yesterday, in Part1, I discussed the "safe" and counter-cyclical occupations
for the unfolding economic depression. Today, I'd like to talk about one specific
approach:
self-employment
with a home-based business.
I posted most the following back in late 2005, but there are some important
points that are worth repeating:
The majority of SurvivalBlog readers that I talk with tell
me that they live in cities or suburbs, but they would like to live full
time at a retreat in a rural area. Their complaint is almost always the same: "...but
I'm not self-employed. I can't afford to live in the country because I can't
find work there, and the nature of my work doesn't allow telecommuting." They
feel stuck.
Over the years I've seen lots of people "pull the plug" and
move to the boonies with the hope that they'll find local work once
they get there. That usually doesn't work. Folks soon find that the most
rural jobs typically pay little more than minimum wage and they are often
informally
reserved for folks that were born and raised in the area. (Newcomers from
the big city certainly don't have hiring priority!)
My suggestion is to start a second income stream, with a
home-based business. Once you have that business started, then
start another one. There are numerous advantages to this
approach, namely:
You can get out of debt
You can generally build the businesses up gradually, so
that you don't need to quit your current occupation immediately
By working at home you will have the time to home school your children and
they will learn about how to operate a business.
You can live at your retreat full time. This will contribute to your self-sufficiency,
since you will be there to tend to your garden, fruit/nut trees, and livestock.
If one of your home-based businesses fails, then you can fall back on the
other.
Ideally, for someone that is preparedness-minded, a home-based business should
be something that is virtually recession proof, or possibly even depression
proof. Ask yourself: What are you good at? What knowledge or skills
do you have that you can utilize. Next, consider which businesses will flourish
during bad times. Some good examples might include:
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctioning of preparedness-related products.
Locksmithing
Gunsmithing
Medical Transcription
Accounting
Repair/refurbishment businesses
Freelance writing
Blogging (with paid advertising) If you have knowledge about a niche industry
and there is currently no authoritative blog on the subject, then start your
own!
Mail order/Internet sales of entertainment items. (When times get bad, people
still set aside a sizable percentage of their income for "escape" from
their troubles. For example, video rental shops have done remarkably well
during recessions.)
Burglar Alarm Installation
Other home-based businesses that seem to do well only in
good economic times include:
Recruiting/Temporary Placement
Fine arts, crafts, and jewelry. Creating and marketing your own designs--not "assembly" for
some scammer. (See below.)
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctions of luxury items, collectibles, or
other "discretionary spending" items
Personalized stationary and greeting cards (Freelance artwork)
Calligraphy
Web Design
Beware the scammers! The fine folks at www.scambusters.org have
compiled a "Top 10" list of common work-at-home and home based business scams
to beware of:
10. Craft Assembly
This scam encourages you to assemble toys, dolls, or other craft projects
at home with the promise of high per-piece rates. All you have to do is
pay
a fee up-front for the starter kit... which includes instructions and parts.
Sounds good? Well, once you finish assembling your first batch of crafts,
you'll be told by the company that they "don't meet our specifications."
In fact, even if you were a robot and did it perfectly, it would be impossible
for you to meet their specifications. The scammer company is making money selling
the starter kits -- not selling the assembled product. So, you're left with
a set of assembled crafts... and no one to sell them to.
9. Medical Billing
In this scam, you pay $300-$900 for everything (supposedly) you need to start
your own medical billing service at home. You're promised state-of-the-art
medical billing software, as well as a list of potential clients in your
area.
What you're not told is that most medical clinics process their own bills,
or outsource the processing to firms, not individuals. Your software may
not meet their specifications, and often the lists of "potential clients" are
outdated or just plain wrong.
As usual, trying to get a refund from the medical billing company is like trying
to get blood from a stone.
8. Email Processing
This is a twist on the classic "envelope stuffing scam" (see #1 below).
For a low price ($50?) you can become a "highly-paid" email processor
working "from the comfort of your own home."
Now... what do you suppose an email processor does? If you have visions of
forwarding or editing emails, forget it. What you get for your money are instructions
on spamming the same ad you responded to in newsgroups and Web forums!
Think about it -- they offer to pay you $25 per e-mail processed -- would any
legitimate company pay that?
7. "A List of Companies Looking for Homeworkers!"
In this one, you pay a small fee for a list of companies looking for homeworkers
just like you.
The only problem is that the list is usually a generic list of companies, companies
that don't take homeworkers, or companies that may have accepted homeworkers
long, long ago. Don't expect to get your money back with this one.
6. "Just Call This 1-900 Number For More Information..."
No need to spend too much time (or money) on this one. 1-900 numbers cost money
to call, and that's how the scammers make their profit. Save your money --
don't call a 1-900 number for more information about a supposed work-at-home
job.
5. Typing At Home
If you use the Internet a lot, then odds are that you're probably a good
typist. How better to capitalize on it than making money by typing at home?
Here's
how it works: After sending the fee to the scammer for "more information," you
receive a disk and printed information that tells you to place home typist
ads and sell copies of the disk to the suckers who reply to you. Like #8,
this scam tries to turn you into a scammer!
4. "Turn Your Computer Into a Money-Making Machine!"
Well, this one's at least half-true. To be completely true, it should read: "Turn
your computer into a money-making machine... for spammers!"
This is much the same spam as #5, above. Once you pay your money, you'll
be sent instructions on how to place ads and pull in suckers to "turn
their computers into money-making machines."
3. Multi-Level Marketing (MLM)
If you've heard of network marketing (like Amway), then you know that there
are legitimate MLM businesses based on agents selling products or services.
One big problem with MLMs, though, is when the pyramid and the ladder-climbing
become more important than selling the actual product or service. If the
MLM business opportunity is all about finding new recruits rather than selling
products or services, beware: The Federal Trade Commission may consider it
to be a pyramid scheme... and not only can you lose all your money, but you
can be charged with fraud, too!
We saw an interesting MLM scam recently: one MLM company advertised the
product they were selling as FREE. The fine print, however, states that
it is "free
in the sense that you could be earning commissions and bonuses in excess of
the cost of your monthly purchase of" the product. Does that sound like
free to you?
2. Chain Letters/Emails ("Make Money Fast")
If you've been on the Internet for any length of time, you've probably received
or at least seen these chain emails. They promise that all you have to
do is send the email along plus some money by mail to the top names on
the list,
then add your name to the bottom... and one day you'll be a millionaire.
Actually, the only thing you might be one day is prosecuted for fraud.
This is a classic pyramid scheme, and most times the names in the chain
emails
are manipulated to make sure only the people at the top of the list (the
true scammers) make any money. This scam should be called "Lose Money
Fast" -- and it's illegal.
1. Envelope Stuffing
This is the classic work-at-home scam. It's been around since the U.S. Depression
of the 1920s and 1930s, and it's moved onto the Internet like a cockroach
you just can't eliminate. There are several variations, but here's a sample:
Much like #5 and #4 above, you are promised to be paid $1-2 for every envelope
you stuff. All you have to do is send money and you're guaranteed "up
to 1,000 envelopes a week that you can stuff... with postage and address
already affixed!" When you send your money, you get a short manual
with flyer templates you're supposed to put up around town, advertising
yet another
harebrained work-from-home scheme. And the pre-addressed, pre-paid envelopes?
Well, when people see those flyers, all they have to do is send you $2.00
in a pre-addressed, pre-paid envelope. Then you stuff that envelope with
another flyer and send it to them. Ingenious perhaps... but certainly illegal
and unethical.
From all that I've heard, most franchises and multi-level marketing schemes
are not profitable unless you pick a great product or service, and you
already have a strong background in sales. Beware of any franchise where you
wouldn't have a protected territory. My general advice is this: You will probably
be better off starting your own business,
making, retailing, or consulting about something where you can leverage
your existing knowledge and/or experience.
---
In closing, I'd like to reemphasize that home security and locksmithing are
likely to provide steady and profitable employment for the next few years,
since hard
economic times are likely to trigger a substantial crime wave. After
all, someone has
to keep watch on the tens of thousands of foreclosed, vacant houses. (If not
watched, then crack cocaine addicts, Chicago syndicate politicians, or other
undesirables might move in!)
« Letter Re: It Looks Like the End is Beginning |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Gun Show Report--The Full Capacity Magazine Feeding Frenzy Continues
Mr. Rawles:
I took your
advice you posted last year and have been investing in some high cap
magazines. I've bought about $2,000 worth since the [November 2008 presidential]
election,
and I haven't had any second thoughts. Thank you sir, your advice is making
me a tidy profit. The 75-round
Romanian [RPK]
drums that I bought for $135 each the day after the election are now going
for $250
each.
And the
31-round
Glock 9
milly magazines
that I paid $33.50 each for are now going for $65 each. Oh, I found +2 [magazine
floorplate extension]s for those, so now they are all 33 rounders. I figure
those mags will
be over $100 each in a couple of months.
My real coup de largesse was this past weekend, when I went to a
local gun show here in Texas. (There is a gun show just about every weekend,
somewhere
in Texas. Some just take a day of driving to get to!) The place was a mad house. It
took 30+ minutes to stand in line just to pay to get in the door. People were
buying mil surplus ammo and magazines like crazy.
Basically the ammo and mags were all sold out by noon on Saturday. And most
of the "black guns" were sold
out
buy
the
time they closed the doors Saturday night. Prices on magazines have basically
doubled since the election.
Anyway, just after the show opened,
I was scanning the tables, looking for high cap magazines--what else--when
I spied
a Mini-14 GB
stainless, with an original Ruger-made 30-round magazine tucked up next to
it. I was about to ask [the seller] if he'd sell the magazine separately, when I glanced
at
the
gun's
price
tag:
$400! I just about died of an infarction on the spot. That is a great price
on a fairly scarce model. (The "GB" is the LEO-sales
model, with factory-installed flash-hider.) The seller--a nice old gentleman
and
a Korean War vet--said that
he had put
less
than 500 rounds through it. The rifle's looks matched the story, so I whipped
out
four Franklins and a copy of my driver's license to show I was
"Free, white and 21". Anyway, we got all set (private party sale--my only way
to business) to get the gun out the door, and the old timer says, "Oh
wait, don't forget the [factory shipping] box, and the magazines, they come
with
it." He
reaches under the table and lifts up a shoe box full of original Ruger 20s
and 30s,
some of
them
still
in
the white boxes! I nearly had a second heart attack. There were
11 [magazines in the box, of which] six were 30 rounders. That's like $900
worth of magazines,
these days! Later at the show I also scored four 20 round Beretta M92 "Robocop"
mags, two [Steyr] AUG 42-rounders
for $30 each, five AR-10 mags
(for just $40 each--I've seen them advertised on Buddy's board for $80 apiece!),
a
half-dozen
"Okay
[Industries]" M16 mags,
and big box of nearly new [Austrian] STG[-58] FN/FAL magazines--which
for some weird reason are still around $15! I bought
23 of those. I talked the guy down to $12 per, since I cleaned
him out.
Speaking of FAL .308 mags, my next purchase (already agreed, by phone) will
be a DSA [FN/]FAL clone. I have to drive 115 miles each way to pick it up.
I found it private party, [listed] on GunsAmerica.com.
I'm now tapped out, but my dad
is
lending
me the cash. I explained the situation, and he says that it is wise to buy
it. [He said:] "We'll have a good chuckle about the price, in a year or two!"
Here is my strategy on mags: Buy what you can, while you can--while
prices are still halfway reasonable. I don't own a Beretta
92, an AR-10, or an AUG, but I figure I can always trade [for what I need] later.
And I practically had to buy that FAL, since I found all those magazines.
(What a great excuse to buy a gun.) My only regret is that I didn't have
the cash to buy more magazines
at the show.
At
the rate
prices
are zooming,
Beta [C-MAG]s will pretty soon be back to $750 apiece, just like during the
[1994 to 2004 Federal "Assault weapons" and 11+ round magazine]
ban. .
Thanks again for your advice, sir. Your were right about silver. You were
right about magazines. And for that matter you were right about derivatives,
too. The world seems more and more like the first chapter
of "Patriots"
every day. (What, were you psychic?) I'm taking [your novel] to heart. I got
all my "beans", and "bullets" in hand, now I just have to work on the "Band-aids".
Thank
You,
Sir!
- Matt
E. in Texas
(Soon to be a 10 Cent Challenger and an Appleseed qualified rifleman.)
JWR Replies: I'm glad to hear that you stocked up. You won't
regret it. Those extra magazines will make fine barter items, both before and
after a "Crunch." OBTW, I'm not the only that is one advocating investing in
magazines. The following is
from
a
recent
e-newsletter from firearms training guru Gabe
Suarez:, advocating preparedness: "...Then get as many magazines
as you can justify. Glock magazines are going for about $35 now. A year ago
they
were
under $20, and dealer price two years ago was about $12! At the height of the
assault on freedom known as the Crime Bill, they were selling for $125. Forget
Ameritrade, buy magazines."
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Do-It-Yourself FIFO Canned Food Storage Bins--Made From Cardboard »
Two Letters Re: How to Approach Shooting
Mister Rawles,
My husband and I have two editions of "Patriots",
both heavily highlighted. I shudder to think that your books sounds all too
prophetic
about
now.
I've seen you reference The
Appleseed Program [of rifle matches and clinics]
on your web site, but I can't determine if you have ever been to one of our
events.
If you haven't,
it is
truly worth
the time, since we are about more than just marksmanship. That is just the
hook
to get people to come.
We teach the history of the beginning of the Revolutionary War and the mindset
of the people involved. Somehow Appleseed changes people. It gets people off
their rears to come and it gets prompts many to take up the call to spread
the word of involvement. It gets people thinking. Appleseed has given me hope
that there are good committed people out there and that with them, not all
of America is lost. It has also proven to be an excellent way to meet like
minded people. If the worst comes to pass, I have the marksmanship skills to
survive and I now know many others who do as well.
My husband and I are new instructors, as we have taken up the call. We are
involved in teaching in the Southwest, but there are classes around the country,
so everyone should be able to find one relatively close by. The training is
highly effective and I have yet to see anyone, even experts, leave without
some new skills.
Sincerely Yours, - G.F.in New
Mexico
Hello Jim,
A little follow up to MJM's article on basic marksmanship. He is 100% spot
on. The fundamentals and basics of marksmanship are the foundation that all
shooting is built on. I would recommend seeking out NRA high
power competition to improve their rifle shooting skills. High power shooters
are
always looking
for new people and welcome them with open arms and are willing to teach.
Plus the matches are just plain fun and gives you goals to strive for and
measure your progress against. Also don't forget Fred's Appleseed program
as well. Take care, - Jeff in Ohio
« Letter Re: Survival Gardening: Growing Food During a Second Great Depression |Main| Letter Re: Advice on Two-Way Radio Communications »
Preparing for Another Battle Rifle Ban, by Michael Z. Williamson
As many people will remember from the last "Assault Weapons" Ban (AWB) [in
the US, which was effective from September, 1994 to September, 2004] there
was a time window before the law took effect. Once it took effect, however,
pre-ban purchased receivers could not legally be built into "assault weapons" unless
they were in AW "format" before the ban took effect. So what does
one do to get around this? It's a rather silly technicality, but so are a lot
of other legal issues. In this case, your stockpiled receivers need to be in
AW "format" before
any ban takes place. If you can't afford to buy full kits for every receiver, you have to find other ways to meet the letter of the law.
Remember that while you are innocent until proven guilty, government agencies
often play by different rules, and of course, legal fees are expensive if you have to prove your innocence.
In the case of AR-15s or other firearms with sectional receivers, this means
you need one complete upper with all the allowable evil features--bayonet
lug, threaded muzzle or flash suppressor. Install a proper trigger kit into each receiver, and then attach the upper to it. Document
this with photographs. You want one photo that clearly shows the serial
number and one that clearly shows the attached "Evil features" on
that receiver. (This also applies if you have already
built a weapon from a stripped receiver and need to document that it was done
before the cutoff date.)
It is acceptable to use digital photos for this purpose, but do not edit them
in any way--experts can tell, and any edits call into question the credibility
of the entire photo. Ideally, have the photos or the actual shoot witnessed
by a lawyer or notary, although friends you can trust to step up and testify
on your behalf will suffice. You need to "place" the photos, which
means to add matter that documents the time and location of the shot. Set the
camera clock for a proper timestamp and date on the photos. Consider adding
a [dated] newspaper banner under the weapon and/or using a notable background
such as your house or vehicle (if you can shoot outside) to add additional placement.
To increase the continuity between the close-up and the overall photos should
they ever come to court, place items in the setting that are obvious placers--a few long matchsticks resting on the weapon,
or a trail of string over it, that would be hard to replace exactly for a different
photo. Do not move or disturb the object(s) between the two shots. Print hard
copies and archive CDs on your premises and at least one place off premise--a
trusted friend or relative, with a lawyer or in a secure box under a different
name that cannot be seized--since dishonest law enforcement have been known to do that to prevent
any evidence for the defense.
Once you've created and documented your AWs, you can defer buying other upper
receivers/features until your budget permits. You did create that
receiver into [a complete] AW format [rifle] before the ban. Therefore, by
the letter of the law, it [demonstrably] is always an AW. (This assumes that
future bans are similar in construct to prior bans at state and federal level).
If your local culture is gun friendly, be seen at ranges and gun shows with
your
legal AWs often. If any legal question arises, you want lots of local
citizens, range officials and law enforcement who will testify that of course Joe Preparedness has AWs. He's had them for years, all
legal, long before that ban took effect.
The photos are also useful if you decide to sell an AW at some point in the
future--you can clearly document that it was in fact [built as] an AW before
the cutoff date. They can also serve for insurance purposes. - Michael
Z. Williamson [with additional input from his wife Gail
Sanders, She is an honor grad of the Defense Information School, and a
combat, forensics, and public affairs photographer.]
JWR Adds: I'm not a fatalist when it comes to re-enactment
of an AWB. By all means contact your representatives numerous times,
by multiple methods (mail, phone,
and e-mail) and express most vociferously, your estimation
of the Constitutionality of a new ban, especially in light of the recent D.C.
v. Heller Supreme
Court decision. With that said, I must also state that I am a realist:
We all saw what happened last year when the congresscritters were deluged with
phone
calls, running by
some
estimates at a ratio of 25-to-1 opposed to the TARP Bank
Bailout Bill, yet the majority of our so-called representatives still voted
for it. This demonstrates
that the congress is now no longer responsive to the electorate. So I can only
conclude that given political expediency and the nature of quid pro quo dealings
inside the DC Beltway, there will be more "Change" made than the American people
want. There is a very high likelihood that some flavor of "Assault Weapon"
and full capacity magazine ban
will
be enacted
during
the first three month "honeymoon" period that will be enjoyed by the BHO Administration
and
the Democrat-dominated
congress. There may also be a separate importation ban, via an executive order,
perhaps in first two weeks that BHO is in office.(One BHO camp insider told
me that he'd heard talk of "more than a dozen January Surprise executive
orders".)
My advice: Take the
appropriate countermeasures: Stock up, especially
on magazines, and "cover
your tail in
paper" using the
method
that
Mike Williamson
suggests. Someday soon, you may be very glad that you did.
« Letter Re: Comparing the Big Three Battle Rifle Chamberings in the United States |Main| Letter Re: A Company Layoff Underscores the Need to Be Well Prepared »
Letter Re: Speeding Coyote Hunters Arrested in Illinois
Jim,
I enjoy reading your blog and have improved my preps exponentially since I
began following you. I don't know how many dozens of [telephone] consultations
you do annually, but you and I spoke for an hour earlier this year. I live
on
Long
Island,
if that
rings a bell. I feel that it was money well-spent.
The post on vehicle stops was informative. You mentioned Boston T. Party's "Boston's
Gun Bible" as a reference source. I have read all his books, fiction and
non-fiction alike, and found him to be both entertaining and informative. If
I may, I suggest letting your readers know that he has a book devoted solely
to interactions with law enforcement. His book is entitled "You and
the Police" and can be found on Amazon.com for as little as $10.88 at last
glance. This book covers all phases of dealing with law enforcement including
traffic
stops,
roadblocks, airports etc . It also tells you what the police are allowed to
do and what your rights are during a "contact", "detention" and "arrest".
I have purchased copies for myself, family and friends. As the cover of the
book states :If you don't know your rights, you have none!"
Thanks for the blog. It's my first stop each morning. God Bless, - Ken B. in
New York
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Hunt Packs Available at Cabela's »
Five Letters Re: Full Capacity Magazine Price Increases are Already Here
Jim,
I wanted to contribute this the following to your ongoing discussion on high
capacity magazines.
Selling high capacity magazines is normally a small part of our business, but
that changed last week. Between October 31 and today, we have sold more than
I normally sell in a year.
I had stocked up anticipating increased demand, but was nowhere near prepared
for the huge surge in sales that we experienced. A normal order was 3 to 6
magazines, now it is 12 or more and we have had several customers buy in quantities
of
100+.
As a result, we are completely sold out of AR-15 magazines.
I have had 400 on order since before the election, hopefully to arrive some
time later this month, but many
are already allocated to back orders. I could use 1,000 more magazines, but
I have no idea how long it will take the manufacturer to produce them, where
I will be on their waiting list, or how much their price will have increased.
I sold out of Glock Model 23 magazines and am very low on Glock 19 magazines.
I was able to re-order, but my supplier was out of a couple of varieties and
the price has
increased
$2 each on the rest, so we had to raise prices. My profit margin was only
$5 on Glock magazines, and one of my other suppliers is now quoting wholesale
prices that are equivalent to what my retail price was.
This feeding frenzy should be an example to everyone who has delayed some
of their preparations. Don't wait until the panic starts -- buy your long
term
storage food now. Get a water filter and grain mill while you still
can. Buy your silver during the current dip. Survival supplies are tight,
but things will
get worse
before they will get better. I have been in the survival business since before Y2K. (BTW,
I have a 1997 edition of [your draft edition novel] TEOTWAWKI in its three
ring binder on my bookshelf) and this is the busiest we have been since
early
1999. - Dave (of Captain
Dave's)
Mr. Rawles
I found this online - it is at an AR15.com forum where folks are presently discussing
who is raising their magazine prices and who isn't: Stay safe. - David B.
JWR,
Brownell's has still
not raised any of their prices, as of this week. I have an account with them
and bought a bunch of mags (AR and AK). Most of these
are going to be traded off to my brother and some other contacts. Brownell's
AR mags are still $12.50. These are good quality and I have never had a problem
with them. FYI, - Sarge
Sir,
I've seen similar goings on here in Memphis. General threat of mob violence
on the night of the 4th and after if The One lost the election, so I went
to pick
up some
extra buckshot and I figured a couple extra boxes of .45 while I was at it.
First went to Sportsman's Warehouse, but they were out of just about everything
in the major pistol calibers except the exotic and high-dollar loads. The
mountain of 9mm ball they'd laid in planning to put on sale this weekend was
reduced
to less than a mole hill.
They were also pretty much out of buckshot, too. Bear in mind that this is
an outdoor sporting goods "big box" and not a gun store per se. I
left there empty-handed and headed over to Guns & Ammo, my usual stop for
same. I knew something was really up when a guy coming out as I went in had
two black Glock cases and a blue SIG box in his arms and his son was carrying
a double-arm-full of handgun ammo boxes. Once I got inside the store, it looked
like Christmas Eve in there; people lined up three deep at the counter, which
is about 50 feet long. All six employees were going like mad trying to keep
up with the sales. I got the last half-dozen boxes of Hornady TAP buckshot
and a few boxes of Winchester Ranger .40 and high-tailed it. Looks like everybody's
a bit worried, and with good reason. "May you live in interesting times," indeed.
- Booth
Jim:
A recent post said that Cabela's in Texas was out of ammo. I live in central
Indiana and my local Gander Mountain store is (by now) out of .223 and other
popular Battle Rifle calibers so I thought I would buy on-line like I usually
do. What a shock. Able Ammo, MidwayUSA and Cheaper Than Dirt are out of just
about everything in Battle Rifle calibers. I've never seen anything like
this ever. Most
are not even
accepting back orders. I stopped by a local but out of the way gun store
and had trouble finding a place to park. The employee's said you could not
move around in the store on Saturday and the owner said he was thinking of
going out of business after the first of the year. Interesting.
Friday, before work, my wife and I stopped by our local police department to
request Concealed Carry permits. We got there Friday morning, 10 minutes before
they opened.
I was
first in line and the lady asked me why everybody wants gun permits? Apparently
it
was a busy week for her. By the time I was fingerprinted and left the lobby
was full of people, mostly couples, all seeking similar permits. These were
all professional people. I live in a bedroom community where we have the highest
per household income in the state. Something interesting is happening on in
our country and intelligent hard working professional people feel the need
to be able to protect themselves.
At a local outdoor shooting range, which was very busy despite 38 degree temps
and wind, I talked to as many people as I could. They are mostly male in their
late 30's to 50's. I ask them how long they have owned their weapon and the
usual answer was "Since Tuesday!" There are a great many new shooters out there
and they are not hunters. While they were not seeking training, at least they
know if their weapon will fire if needed. I rarely see the same people again.
Apparently, if the gun works, it works and that is the end of it. - Russ in
Indiana
« Letter Re: Deflation Possibly Followed by Mass Inflation? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: A Suggested Checklist for Preparedness Newbies
Here's a beginner's list I made for my [elderly] father today:
Food
{Brown pearl] rice does not store well. Neither does cooking oil so that needs to be fresh.
No, Crisco doesn't count.
Coconut oil would be your best bet.
Wheat berries - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Beans - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Mylar bags
Spices
Salt
Country Living grain mill
propane tanks, small stove and hoses to connect
freeze dried fruits, vegetables, eggs and meat if you can find them.
Water
500 gallons
of water [storage capacity. Rainwater catchment is a common practice
in Hawaii]
Water filter
Cooking
Cast Iron Cookware
Firearms
FN PS 90
10 PS 90 magazines
5.7 handgun
10 FN 5.7 handgun magazines
5.7 ammo
Training: Front Sight four day defensive
handgun course. (Note: eBay sometimes has
course certificates for $100!)
Body armor: Nick at BulletProofME.com
Medical
Personal medications
Augmentin antibiotic
Up to date dental work
Painkillers
Bandages
Iodine
Anti-fungal spray
Finances
$10,000 cash in small bills
100 one-ounce silver coins (GoldDealer.com or Tulving.com)
Transport
Gasoline in 5 gallon cans or better yet, this.
Gas stabilizer
Mountain bikes
Air pump
Miscellany
Flashlights
Rechargeable Batteries
Battery
charger
Hand held walkie talkies
Topographical map of your area
Spare eyeglasses
Shortwave radio
Home generated power
12 volt battery system
Good backpack
Good knife
Good compass
Good shoes
Bar soap
Toothbrushes
Dental floss
Toilet paper
Fishing kit
Salt licks
Connibear traps
Regards, - SF in Hawaii
JWR Adds: The following is based on the assumption that SF's
father also lives in Hawaii: Because of the 10 round magazine limit for handguns,
I recommend that Hawaiians purchase only large
bore
handguns for self defense--such
as .45
ACP.
Both the
Springfield
Armory XD .45 Compact or the Glock Model 30 would both be good choices. The "high
capacity" advantage of smaller caliber
handguns
is not available to civilians in Hawaii, so you might as well get a more potent
man stopper, given the arbitrary 10 round limitation.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Saving Your Life and Saving Your Relationships--Don't Drive Your Loved Ones Away »
Letter Re: Advice for an Unprepared Greenhorn
Jim,
I'd recommend that "Greenhorn" should take a look at your "Profiles" page.
I learned as much reading them as I do reading the blog! As you say, starting
a "List
of Lists" is invaluable to preparedness. It is the only
way I can keep track of what I have on hand, whether it be too much or too
little. And, just because I know it is a weak spot with everybody, more medical
supplies is always a good thing.
Also, most gun shops have a layaway program, so it's possible to at least start
paying on another rifle or handgun. When you get one of these items, make sure
the ammo to feed it is your very next purchase! I'd rather have just a couple
of good, solid guns and lots of ammo, than a lot of cool-guy stuff and only
one
magazine
of ammo for each.
Make a habit of checking eBay, Craig's
List and the local papers for good deals
on things. If there is a sale at the local department store, I strongly recommend "buying
ahead." Meaning, buying children's winter clothing in the spring when
the stores are trying to clear it out, and buying a couple of sizes up. Same
with
shoes. Another great investment. This is one of those tangible investments
that Jim speaks of all the time!
Most of all, stay calm! Breathe! Even having a few extra cases of beans and
rice will put you ahead of most of your neighbors. Make sure the whole family
is involved, and especially that your wife is your partner in everything you
do. Take care. - SJC
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: West Virginia as a Retreat Locale »
Four Letters Re: Pistol Holster Recommendations for Women
Jim,
Bill from Ohio has a number of great observations about carry issues for females.
Among the issues he mentions about hip holsters built for men:
1) Because of a woman's hips they tend to cause the butt of the weapon to dig-in
to a woman's waist
2) Because women have hips, upon which they wear their belt they have less
room to lift the weapon before it impinges into their armpit.
3) Because of factors 1 and 2 the FBI cant further complicates a natural draw
for women.
I'd like to mention a
holster made by Blade-Tech that addresses all three of these issues.
The offset allows for a normal vertical weapon carry by offsetting the distance
from waist to hip. The drop isn't a dramatic drop like a thigh rig -- it just
gives the woman a holster to armpit distance more comparable to what a man
experiences. Finally the cant is fully adjustable to include straight drop,
FBI, and even muzzle forward.
I have no financial relationship (other than being a customer) with Blade Tech.
Just wanted to point out this groundbreaking product. - Keith in the Inland
Northwest
Jim,
As a follow-on to Pistol Holsters for Women, my wife had good luck with
a Galco Lady Gunsite for a full-size 1911. This holster has an angled belt
attachment, holding the gun vertical with the grip away from the body. This
is not an effective concealment rig, as the gun sticks out from the body.
It can get in the way until you get used to it. And of course, they don't
make 'em anymore. - Simple Country Doctor.
Sir,
In the recent letter regarding Holster Recommendations for Women, I found
that I could understand that there is a problem, but was having a hard time
visualizing it. A quick Google turned up an
article on the subject. It does
not offer the exact same solutions to the problem, but it does have diagrams.
As a guy, I found this very useful to understanding the problem. It is probably
a lot safer than harassing the next female police officer I see with endless
questions about her firearm. Somehow I doubt the officer--or my wife--would
appreciate
me pointing/shifting/tugging on the officer's gear and person just to satisfy
my curiosity about this problem. - Jeff
James:
Bill in Ohio brings up nearly everything I was going to write about
yesterday (but killing blackberries and renovating the spring got in the way).
His descriptions of the various holsters and how they fit on women is spot
on and
I doubt I could have described them as well. Everyone needs to read
them very carefully, and learn!
Unfortunately, I learned all that the hard way. For over 30 years, I have carried
a pistol when horseback riding, and I can assure you that as a 5'3" woman,
with hips and breasts, it is no easy thing. And over the years I have come
to the
conclusion that the traditional thigh-tiedown type holster works best. The
cowboys had that one right!
There are a couple of reasons why I use this set up. First off, it's easy and
comfortable, even if you carry a good-sized pistol (in this case, a Dan Wesson
.357 with a 6.5-inch barrel.) The only problem I ever had with it was that
the Pachmayr grip rubbed a hole through the lining of my long riding coat.
So
I covered that place with Cordura.
The second reason is that while I was trying out various ways of packing that
pistol, I had that big pistol at the small of my back. That worked okay, once
I worked out how to get rid of the "bounce" when going faster than
a walk. (I had to wear the belt so tight it was uncomfortable) But that wasn't
the worst part. The worst part was taking a bad fall one day, and landing on
the damn thing! Ouch!
So, I nixed the belt/small of the back idea, and went back to the thigh holster.
I do sometimes carry a smaller pistol (9mm Ruger with a 2-inch barrel) at
the small of my back. I rigged a fanny pack with a synthetic holster, and that
works
well.
I have often wondered if anyone has tried to modify (or if someone already
makes) a holster integrated with one of those neoprene back support belts.
It would seem to me that this would work very well. Something like a pancake
holster sewn onto the belt at the small of the back. It would be comfy, wouldn't
bounce, and if done right shouldn't be too difficult to draw. So, unless someone
comes up with a better idea, I'm sticking with my thigh tie-down.
Oh, something else in regards to packing a weapon when riding. You should always
keep your weapon on your person! If you get dumped (or your horse takes off
while you are taking a leak.) you do not want to be without your defense.
I also carry water, a couple power bars, a small first aid kit, and a Leatherman
in my fanny pack as well.
Many of my riding friends have made fun of me over the years because of all
the stuff I carry with me. I have big saddlebags, stuffed with everything I
might need. But all that teasing sure stops in a big hurry when someone needs
something that I happen to have! ( Like toilet paper, a tampon, a shovel, or
even my gold pan!) I also take a lot of flak for usually riding
the smallest horse with the most gear.
Take care, and my thoughts are with your family. I hope Memsahib is on the
mend! - Mrs. JD
JWR Replies: Like you, I am not an advocate of "small
of back"
(SOB)
holsters. They are particularly risky when riding a bicycle, motorcycle, ATV,
or horse! You are fortunate that you didn't take a harder fall, or you might
have suffered a
spinal injury.
I have
read
accounts
of a
few law
enforcement
officers that had severe injuries because
of SOB holsters. I'm not willing to take that risk.
« Letter Re: Pistol Holster Recommendations for Women |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Controlling Your Inner Gun Nut--Balanced Preparations are a Must
Hello Jim,
Like many readers I have always been somewhat of a gun nut. Back when I was
young and single I spent a lot of money on guns and ammo including items I
didn't really need that have since accumulated over time. I was single and
had money to spend. Fast forward to the present with wife and kids and money
is tight. There is not much left for prepping. So I decided
to take stock of what I really need for my core battery of weapons/ammo and
sell the rest and use the proceeds for prepping. Here are some lessons learned:
It's important to have balance in your preparations between weapons and everything
else. An M1A battle
rifle is no more important than a Troy-Bilt tiller or a good pair of Danner
boots. Ammunition has appreciated greatly in value and
been an excellent investment (although [that was] not my original intent).
My stocks of 7.62x54r, 7.62x39 and .303 British have at least doubled or tripled
in value.
A friend recently stated that Portuguese 7.62 NATO [ammunition in sealed battle
packs] would have been a much better investment than gold. It would be nice
to hold onto this ammunition longer and allow it to appreciate some more but
there are other critical supplies that take precedence. You are correct when
you state "tangibles, tangibles, tangibles" as a store of value.
Hope this provokes some thought. - Jeff in Ohio
JWR Replies: Your observations are spot on. Prioritizing and logistical balance are crucial.
I can personally
attest that Portuguese 7.62 NATO battle packs were indeed a great investment.
Because of the Memsahib's recent large hospitalization expenses, I've been
forced to liquidate many of my tangibles. For example, I recently sold two
cases of "Port". (Each wooden case has 1,000 rounds, packed in 200
round battle packs. Each case weighs about 65 pounds.) These cases cost me
$180 each
in 2001. I just sold them for $475 each, and I've seen them recently sell for
as much as $500 each. It is notable that there are very few bonds, stocks,
or other investments that have appreciated so well
in
four
years.
My
only regret
is that I couldn't afford to buy 30 or 40 cases at $180 each! As some of the characters
in my novel often lament: "Oh well. Hindsight is 20/20."
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Survival Medicine and Ditch Medicine, by Josh in Montana »
Letter Re: Some Storage SNAFUs
Jim:
Why do the incredibly robust "cheap" imported AKs have chrome lined bores ,
yet some of the expensive and finicky American-made ARs not chrome
lined? Well, if you live in a humid climate, it makes a difference. I
made
the classic
error of storing my guns in gun cases. In fact, that's the worst way to store
them as the humidity accumulates inside. One of them had nearly rusted
solid in three years.
Thanks to the ministrations of another firearm enthusiast, all my guns are
being de-rusted, dipped in preservative oil and mylar bagged along with oxygen
absorbents, rust inhibitor tabs and desiccants.
I don't want to talk about what happened to the barrel of my M21 so just don't
ask. If you live in a humid climate, then consider the PS90. Mostly plastic,
hi capacity, very ergonomic.
I also learned about the weight limitations of gamma seals. I just noticed
that when I put ammo in five gallon buckets with Gamma seal ls on them, if
I go over three buckets high, the bottom seal breaks and falls into the bucket.
Now I limit it to two high and only lightweight buckets on top. - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: Thanks for being so frank. Perhaps other readers
learn from your mistakes and avoid some costly problems.
A humid climate
dictates
extreme vigilance for gun storage. Here is my general guidance:
1.) Clean thoroughly, lubricate heavily, an a inspect frequently.
2.) If storing guns in a vault or a wall cache, invest in a Golden Rod dehumidifier.
But don't expect it to be a miracle panacea. Mark your calendar with reminders
for
monthly inspections!
3.) Never, ever use a muzzle cap for more than an hour or two. They are for use
in the field, not for storage!
4.) R.I.G., silica
gel, and and VCI
paper are your friends.
5.) If you use grease or a heavy coating of oil in a gun bore and/or its chamber,
then be sure to tag the gun with a prominent reminder to yourself
to remove the
grease
it
before
firing.
(Not doing so can be a safety hazard!)
5.) Do NOT use oxygen absorbing packets for gun storage!
These are designed specifically to kill insect larvae in stored food. These
packets
use
a chemical reaction of moisture, salt, and ferric oxide (rust!) to consume
the oxygen in a confined space. These packets can be bad news for stored
guns.
Instead, I recommend that you use silica gel to prevent rust. Silica gel packets
also
have
the
advantage
that
they
can
be re-used many times if you dry them out in an oven or a dehydrator overnight.
(Since they employ a chemical reduction process, oxygen
absorbing
packets
can only be used once.)
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Two Letters Re: The Shenandoah Valley as a Retreat Locale? »
Letter Re: Holster, Sling, and Web Gear Recommendations
Jim,
Long before the current trend in drop-leg holsters, we used some in Army
Aviation to clear the armor on the seats in some specific aircraft. The one
I flew had
more armor coverage, and frankly even a drop-leg wasn't going to work, so
the shoulder holster was the way to go for me. Tanker wear shoulder rigs,
as well
as desk jockeys for the very same reason. Your pistol needs to be out of
the way to do your primary job. That's the Army though. Just because Big
Army does
it, or uses it, it doesn't mean it's really a good idea for you as an individual.
There's a lot of junk the Army uses to great effect that is just useless
for the individual or small-group survivalist. Don't ever base what you need
on
what you see the Army, or even contractors, using. The missions are entirely
different.
Buy and use what you need.
That being said, drop-leg rigs are great for wearing directly on your belt,
or a dedicated gun belt, along with a knife. If you remember Trasel's post
a while back about gear he mentioned keeping your knife, etc. on your trouser
belt, so you always have it with you, if you ditch, or just don't have your
web gear. Sage advice there. A drop-leg, or even a shoulder rig, does this
for you. By using the right holster (that's key there), you can have it attached
to your person, and clear your web gear. If you have to ditch your web-gear,
your gun and knife are still with you.
While most schools frown on shoulder holsters because of safety concerns,
and the complexity of sidearm retention, in many cases it's a good choice.
Pilots
have used them forever, and it's unlikely you'll face a retention situation
in your own cockpit. Same with tankers. I remember a picture of a P-38 pilot
in the Pacific that had the usual USGI WWII shoulder
rig, with the shoulder strap also going through a mag pouch and survival
knife. Not a bad set-up
for his use, and worth thinking about for a lot of reasons. Not the perfect
rig
for a night on the town, but it obviously worked for him. Even what's perfect
in a schoolhouse training environment might not be perfect for you. The key
is to go with what works for you.
Whatever holster you choose, if you have more than one try to keep to one
system. If you're using a Safariland
6004, look at a holster with the self-locking system (SLS)
for concealment,
or go without [secondary] retention. What you don't want is different retention
systems to deal with. Using a 6004 with SLS on your leg, then using a thumbsnap
for
concealment, and using a level three retention holster for belt use isn't
a wise move. [For the sake if kinesthetic memory] you want to make the
same movements each time to get the gun out.
Sometimes you can modify stuff to work. The Safariland 6004 is often the
subject of some surgery which allows it to ride higher and much more comfortable
for
many. Sometimes you can get holsters that do many things. The USGI M12 [aka
Bianchi UM-84 series] holster can be adapted to many different types of carry.
I frankly
don't think too
highly of that holster, but many think USGI means it's the way to go. They're
cheap enough I suppose. I currently use an Eagle brand drop leg that the
drop leg flap can fold over so you can use it both as a conventional belt
service holster
as well as a drop leg. It rides high enough to be out of the way in drop-leg
mode, and low enough to clear gear. The full flap, with Fastex fastener means
it's secure no matter what I do, and the full-flap velcros out of the way
to allow an open top configuration with a thumbsnap retention as well. It
pretty
much does it all for me from admin to tactical and it's all the same holster,
so training is simplified and it's cheaper to buy one good holster than several
different ones (though I always seem to buy several anyway). It's doesn't
do concealed carry well, but most CCW holsters
are either non-retention, or thumbsnap, so
again there's nothing to re-learn in a fight.
As for slings, I said before the Israeli type has a lot going for it, and
that's what I use. You can beat it in specific tasks with other slings, but
for all
around lugging a rifle around and still be effective with the sling, they're
great.
While I agree on having different sets of web-gear for each rifle, I don't
agree on caliber/weapon specific. I think they should be universal for what
you're equipped with. That way all that needs to change is the magazines,
and not the whole set of web gear. Weapon-specific web gear is too specific,
in my opinion. Regards,
- Doug Carlton
« Letter Re: A Reminder to Readers About Botulism |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: Rampant Inflation in Steel Products
Hey Jim,
I used to make my living as a construction electrician and had several big
steel Greenlee
brand tool boxes with my tools. There is usually one in the back of my
truck all the time.
Price of gun safes has continued to rise, so I took one of my boxes and cut
out a plywood rack for my guns, then filled in around the rack with polyurethane
foam. After it was set and cured, I painted the urethane foam flat black.
The fit and finish on my Greenlee tool box/gun safe is good enough to protect
my weapons, keep them locked and secure. It also has the advantage of handles
and skids so it can be loaded into a pickup or bug out trailer to get to the
remote retreat in a hurry. If necessary, I can load it with a forklift, or
a chain hoist, or muscle it on with three other men.
Anyway, I thought you might be interested in my improvised gun safe.
The steel tool boxes can still be bought from Lowe's [hardware store] for $199.
Regards, - Lawrence, editor of SurvivingTheDayAfter@yahoogroups.com
JWR Replies: Thanks for that cost-saving suggestion. Just
keep in mind that "portability" works both ways. It is essential that you secure
your vault, box, or chest to a floor or a very sturdy wall, to prevent
burglars from hauling off "The Whole Shebang." Be sure to use heavy duty lag bolts!
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes from JWR »
After 10 Years--Some Observations and Lessons Learned by a Y2K-Era Prepper
It was June, 1998. Y2K was
a salient topic of conversation. It got my attention. When the electricity
went off and there would be no water to drink, and no
fuel to move food to the JIT grocery
stores, I could see things getting very ugly. I had been willing to fight
for this nation as a member of the US Army.
Now it was time to fight for my household. I bought a Springfield Armory
M1A. I bought a safe to store it in. I bought another M1A (for
the spousal unit of course!) I bought ammo. Lots of it. I bought gear. I
bought food.
I became awakened to the idea of being self-reliant.
That was 10 years ago. Y2K didn’t cause a global melt down. (Although
I have a friend in the service that sat in a command bunker holding his breath
at Y2K – the
government didn’t know what was going to occur.) I
have not had to live through or endure Hurricane
Katrina. No participation
in the 9/11 attacks.
In fact, I can’t claim a campaign ribbon for any
disasters. Am I upset or sorry that I have changed my life to follow a path
of self-reliance? Most definitely, absolutely not!
Let me share with you the good and the bad of what I have done in the last
ten years. So often, people new to self-reliance are like ants at the foot
of a mountain staring up with their head touching their back wondering how
in the world they will ever be able to replace modern society and be able to
take care of themselves WTSHTF.
Well, truth be told, you can’t do it
overnight unless you’re Warren Buffet. I am walking, talking living proof,
however, that you can make significant progress. Let me show you!
In order to show you that you do indeed have cause for hope, let me share
a
few of my screw-ups. How about the initial purchases I made
while in a state of “marked concern” when I became “self
aware” with
regard to self – reliance. The money I invested in self-reliance was
my spousal unit’s “down payment on a house”. Do you think
this view of “my nest” versus “the world may end” led
to some intense “discussions”? You bet your last dog flea it did.
For much of the intervening 10 years I have been the one prepping while my
wife harbored a severe grudge against the entire topic because I spent our
money for the house down payment on crazy self-reliance materials. A grade
of “F” to
me for consensus building. She is just beginning to come around in the last
two years. Poster child example of a bucket of wet sand. (If two guys fight,
they belt each other like two crazed wolverines. Eventually they realize they
were stupid for fighting, shake hands, forgive and are back to being friends.
Kinda like a cow urinating on a big flat rock – big splash and splatters,
but it dries up pretty quickly. Get in an argument with a gal and it is like
pouring water into
a bucket of sand – the surface may dry after a bit, but it stays wet
down in that bucket for a long time.)
I very religiously squirreled away Gillette Atra razors because that is what
I used each day. The handle that you click onto the blade cartridge gave up
the ghost after many years of faithful service. The stores don’t sell
them anymore! Now I have three dozen packs of five cartridges with no way to
use them to shave! Fortunately, I did find a second/spare handle in my stores
and
will
be able to use them up. Did I re-learn some valuable lessons? You bet!
Two is one, and one is none.
You need to see what you have (inventories!)
Store what you Eat/use – I did great on the cartridges, but forgot
spare handles!
In the run-up to Y2K I bought a dozen 6 volt golf cart batteries to be able to
set-up some kind of power system in the house. Great intent. No photovoltaic
panels No wiring until last year. They have been “stored” sitting
on pallets in a friends storage building for 9 years because I have not been
able to get
to the replacement power system yet. I could have used that money for a higher
priority item.
The spousal unit and I built our home last year. We did many things very right.
Some learning experiences occurred, however. Maybe chief amongst them is my
underestimation of the massiveness of the size of this endeavor! I joke with
friends about not being free from the To Do list to be able to get into trouble
for at least five years! Fix the septic pond berms. Sort out the “scrap” lumber.
Put a deck on the back of the house so the [building] code Nazis will give
us the permanent occupancy permit. Fix the leaking pressure tank in the basement.
Fix the DR
mower. Mow. Clear 30 trees dropped to get the septic pond clearance (not done
with that one yet). Cut and split and stack firewood. The list goes on. Don’t
get me wrong – I would not trade my homestead back for city living for
anything. Was I able to foresee the "second & third order effects” of
the change to a country homestead? Nope. Not even having read Backwoods Home
magazine for 8 years. Thank God I listened to my in-laws and did not try
to finish the upstairs interior construction while living downstairs!
Prior to Y2K I tried very hard to create a group. It failed in many ways. Had
Y2K caused the feared problems, we would have been road kill. Okay, we would
have been the third or fourth critter on the highway run over by life, but
we were
nowhere near ready to deal with WTSHTF/TEOTWAWKI.
The Yuppie Queen and her husband went right back to spoiling their princess/daughter,
buying Jaguars, clothes,
and hair implants. You know - living the typical American city life. The other
couple moved out onto 20 acres in a very rural county and raise goats and chickens.
I am on 20+ acres and moving in a self-reliant direction. Two out of three
ain’t
bad!
I endured the gauntlet of multiple careers trying to find a fit for who I am.
Thankfully, my spousal unit was trained well by her farmer parents. We never
carried any debt other than the mortgage. One thing we did do smart was under-buy
on our home with a condo (sixplex) in town. No car payments. No credit card
payments. We kept 3-6 months of expenses in savings. One business venture was
as a franchisee for Idiotstate. Massive mistake. Four years with no income
for me and a net loss of $60,000 overall. What preps could you get done with
an
extra $60,000? I am certainly not happy I put one in the “L” column.
I am not proud of failing. I am proud of jumping into the fight and giving
it my 110%. As they used to tell me in the military, “What an opportunity
for character building!” Learning lesson for me was that I should never
have stopped Soldiering. I simply have green blood. I have returned to the
Army by working as a tactical/leadership contractor at a nearby Fort and getting
reappointed into the National Guard. Will a deployment take me away from directly
protecting The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU)? Yes. Does staying employed doing
what God designed me to do mean we’ll have a steady income? Likely. Does
a pension check from age 65 on make us better able to care for ourselves? You
betcha. The world may not disintegrate in 30 days. It may actually remain fairly
normal. One has to prepare for that contingency as well.
By now you have to be thinking “What a knothead! This guy couldn’t
find his fourth point of contact if you put one hand on a cheek!” Well,
not so fast there Skippy! I have a thing or two that should go in the “W” column.
I should give you a massive dose of hope! Let me describe to you in a quick
overview where I have come to in my 10 year quest to become more self-reliant.
First, about our home…
Home
Your home is your castle, right? Well mine actually kinda is. It sets on a
chunk of land that is 20+ acres. The terrain is rolling and 95% wooded. It
butts up against a cemetery to the north, a 900+ acre conservation area to
the south, a river to the west, and a section line to the east. The home is
an Insulated Concrete Form (ICF)
structure. The walls are 1” of concrete
fake rock veneer, 2.5” of foam, 8” of reinforced concrete, 2.5” of
foam, 5/8” of sheetrock. It is “round”, being made up of
12 wall sections each 8 feet in width. Two stories with a basement. About
1,800 square feet of living space. (2,700 with the basement, however, that
area is not finished yet.) Geothermal heating/cooling and a soapstone wood
stove.
Metal roof. No carpeting – oak floors and tile. The wellhead
is inside the home so I don’t have to worry about winter breakdowns or freeze-ups,
nor losing access WTSHTF. We are running at top speed towards the 20% equity
checkpoint in order to get rid of the bankster-invented Private Mortgage Insurance
(PMI) extortion racket. (We have a credit rating of 804, so the “risk” the
bank incurs by carrying our note is a freaking joke!). It suits our lifestyle
very,
very
well. Our intent was to have a very low maintenance home. Having lived here
one year in two more weeks, it looks like we have a very big check mark in
the “W” column. More details on the design/floor plan in a future
article!
Weapons & Training
We have an M1A set-up for combat, and one set up for long-range precision work.
The Glock 21
[.45 ACP] is the base pistol for the household, with one for each of us and
a G30 [compact Glock .45 ACP] as back-up. The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU) doesn’t
carry a rifle or carbine, just the pistol. (More on that later.) Training for
both of us
includes Defensive
Handgun 1 and Team Tactics with Clint and Heidi Smith at Thunder Ranch. I have
also had General Purpose, Urban, and Precision Rifle with Clint. I completed
a special symposium at Gunsite (pistol, rifle, shotgun, carbine). I am an NRA Certified
pistol, rifle, and home defense instructor. I have several other weapon platforms
as a “Dan Fong” kind of guy. The two rifles with
accoutrements, and the four pistols with same were certainly not cheap. Nor
was the training. I do, however, know how to properly employ them now.
Food & Supplies
The spousal unit & I could stretch the on-hand food to cover two years.
Canned freeze dried is 45% of it, bulk buckets is 45%, and “normal use” food
is the last 10%. We have built a rolling rack set of shelves for the 3rd part
to ease rotation of the canned goods with each grocery store trip. No, I haven’t
found the secret spy decoder ring sequence on how to rotate the bulk and freeze-dried
stuff with our normal, both of us work, lifestyle. The sticking point for this
area I see is that WTSHTF, Mom & Dad in-law, Sister-in-law, Brother-in-law
with wife and two princesses (one with hubby), and my Mom & her husband
will
show up on our doorstep. That makes for an even dozen mouths to fee
Security
Now for a bit more detail. First topic up, IAW my military training, is Security.
The base of everything here is God. I have chosen to bend my knee to Jesus
Christ as my Lord and Savior. I can amass all the weapons, ammo, food and “stuff” you
can imagine, but He is the one ultimately in charge. I am charged to be a prudent
steward of His possessions - my family, property, vehicles, food, weapons,
ammo, etc.. I am definitely striving to be the ant storing things for the winter.
If you ain’t right in this area, it will really matter in eternity.
Part of your security is weapons. There are sheeple, wolves, and sheepdogs.
I am definitely in the 3rd category. In today’s world your “teeth” are
your firearms. I plan from a Boston T. Party paradigm of having a battle rifle.
Hence, the M1A. Were I starting over today, I would likely go with a FAL, but
now "I will dance with the one that brung me". Or maybe just accept the brilliance
of the M1
Garand at $620 delivered to your doorstep from the Civilian Marksmanship
Program (CMP).
I do have two of these. Hard to argue with .30-06 ball. I renovate Mausers
as my hobby and so have a .35 WAI scout rifle. A second one in the
more common 7.62x51 chambering is in work now. I laos have a Mossberg 835 [riotgun],
two Ruger 10/22s (one blued, one stainless), Ruger MKII stainless .22 LR pistol,
S&W
625 pistol in .45 ACP/.45
Auto Rim, a few Enfields, and a couple of Mosin-Nagants round out the field.
Let me detail for you the path to get to the Glocks. I think it may save you
some of your money. I received a Colt Gold Cup [M1911]
.45 ACP pistol from my Dad as a graduation gift from the Hudson Home For Boys
[aka USMA West Point].
Great
intent. A weapon as a gift – how can you ever be wrong in doing this?!
However, a terrible choice as a combat weapon. The Gold Cup is a target pistol.
Tight
tolerances.
Feeds only hardball, and that can be tenuous proposition. I carried it on the
East-West German border leading patrols. The rear sight broke twice. The front
sight shot off once and tore off twice. It was a jammomatic. I hated it. Sold
it to a guy that wanted to target shoot.
Took that money and bought a stainless Ruger P90DC. Sack of hammers tough.
always goes bang when you pull the trigger. Inexpensive as far as handguns
go. After some marked de-horning, you could even make it run in a fight without
shredding you at the same time. One marked problem. Two [different weight]
trigger pulls [for first round double action versus subsequent round single
action.]. This started to teach me to throw the muzzle down as I pulled the
trigger in
double
action.
This nasty habit caused a problem when you were firing the 2nd through X rounds,
as now it operates as a single action. TLSU had a heck of a time with it at
Thunder Ranch. Clint loaned her his G21. No more trigger problems.
Still bowing at the altar of the 1911, I bought a Kimber Compact to carry instead
of the Ruger. (I still have the Ruger – it is still “the gun that
my Dad gave me” and no one buys the P90 used for anywhere near it’s
initial cost, so I can’t sell it without taking a significant bath on
it.) The Kimber was going well. Then I got a little too aggressive at slamming
magazines home in the shortened grip and jammed it. Then the recoil rod unscrewed
itself during an IPSC run
and seized the gun while messing up the trigger. Off to Kimber. Free warranty
work and 48 hours without my self-defense pistol.
Now I have no confidence in the pistol. I Loc-Tite’d the recoil rod
and staked it so it wouldn’t come undone again. Then I sold it.
Glocks cost roughly one-half of what a Kimber does. Crummy factory sights,
but all my pistols wear tritium anyway. No ambidextrous safety required. My
short fingers are
mated to big palms, so I can handle the grip. TLSU has been trained on the
Glock Model 21 (G21). It ain’t an issue of psychological derangement
like many guys get about their 1911/Glock/H&K/Springfield, but it is a
comfortable and working relationship between Glock & I. I have a G21 and
a G30 for both of us. They always go bang accurately and they have never rusted.
I am
not
pleased
with Gaston [Glock]’s refusal to take responsibility for any mistakes
they make in manufacturing. No problems with the G21 however. A pistol is what
you
use
to fight your way back to your rifle, which you shouldn’t have laid down
in the first place.
M1As hit my safe because it is what I knew from the service. They also fire
a full power cartridge, 7.62x51. It makes cover into concealment. I don’t
have the other 10 guys in an infantry squad fighting with me so I can maneuver
under their covering fire. I have to hit the bad guy with a powerful blow once
and move on to the next wolf/bad guy. Mouse guns firing rabbit rounds don’t
scratch that itch for me. To each his own. My two are old enough to have USGI
parts and good quality control. Here are the mods I made to my “combat” M1A.
Maybe they will help you:
Krylon paint job to disrupt the "big black stick" look
M60 [padded] sling
Front sight filed down so that zero is achieved with the rear sight bottomed
out
Handguard ventilated
National Match trigger group, barrel, and sights (came as a “Loaded” package
from Springfield)
Rear aperture drilled out to make it a ghost ring
Skate board tape on slick metal butt plate
For the “Surgical” M1A (it shoots1/2 minute when I do my part):
National Match loaded package
Trigger assembly additionally tuned at factory
Unitized gas system
Factory bedded
Stainless barrel
Swan rings and QD bases
Leupold M3 3.5-10x40 scope
Handmade leather cheekrest
Other weapons - I have two M1
Garands. Both were bought from the CMP. One
is stored offsite with a "Bug-In Bag" (BIB). One is a Danish return, less
wood, that I re-stocked. TLSU has claimed this one as hers. Ammo from the CMP
is
cheaper
than any
other cartridge out there, save the communist surplus stuff. An M1917 Enfield
(also
from CMP) is in the safe, along with a 2A, a #3, and a #4. A VZ24 is stored
offsite. The first Mauser I renovated is sitting there as an additional .30-06
with a Trijicon 3-9x40 tritium-lit scope. A Remington 700 with Leupold VX-II
scope is in the safe, but likely to be sold soon. A Mosin-Nagant (M44 or
M38) ride in each vehicle.
I formerly had [Ruger] Mini-30s. I could never find any 20 or 30 round magazines
that would function reliably. I sold them and got SKS carbines. When I quit
holding out
for TLSU to become a Warrior and carry one, I sold them off to fund other
toys. I am pondering the purchase of an AK folder because it is a sack of
hammers
tough and can be transported discretely. I don’t know if I have ever
come out on the positive side when selling a gun. Now I have to re-buy an
AR-15 to have one for training purposes. The SKSs could be useful for arming
the
family showing up on your doorstep. Hindsight being 20/20, I would caution
against selling any gun you buy. (The 700 mentioned above is a 2nd precision
weapon and I have no AK to train with. Still deciding.)
Ammo is required to feed these weapons. I have over 10,000 rounds of 7.62x51.
I have over 10,000 rounds of .22 LR. No, I don’t think these amounts
are enough. Now that the costs of ammo have risen to heart stopping levels,
I really don’t feel like I bought enough in the past!
I need to plus up the quantities/smatterings of other cartridges that I have
like .30-30 Winchester, .270 Winchester,
.40 S&W.
The location of my home is the best I could get balancing competing requirements.
It is as far from the city as we can get and still stomach the drive to work.
It is between two major line of drift corridors – 12 miles to the major
one, 8 miles to the secondary one. It is bordered by neighbors on only one
side. The folks in the cemetery don’t say much. The critters in the
wildlife area are more vocal - the ducks, turkeys, geese, hoot owls, loons,
coyotes
sound off regularly. We don’t mind. About 95% of the property is wooded.
A few hickory, lots of oak. walnut, (unfortunately) locust trees are all
there.
The local river comes out of it’s banks about every other year and
blocks our driveway for several days, but never comes near the house. The
German Shorthair
is long in the tooth for security, but she is there. A new pup is in the
pipeline.
I would feel a great deal more secure if the homestead was picked up and
dropped into Idaho or Alaska. It is about as good as we can do, though, staying
near
a major city so we can have decent paying jobs. There are some improvements
we can make though. I just bought a weather alert radio from Cabela’s
today. Tough to hear tornado sirens when you live miles away and have 1 foot
thick walls! We need a driveway monitor/alarm. Again, the superior insulation
of
the walls means we hear nothing outside. I can see the utility
of sandbags if things got really ugly. Some more land line communication
assets would be
useful. I think an AR-15 for training people would be useful, as would an
AK. Overall, I think we have done pretty well in the security arena.
Our Home
We started the 10 years in a condo. It was part of a six-plex set on a small
pond. I hate Homeowner’s Associations and their covenants! We could afford
the mortgage on one of our two paychecks. Good thing! I didn’t get a
paycheck for four years. We scraped by. Two years after re-entering the job
market we built our house. We worked on the plans for five years. Beware! Finding
a property piece and building a non-shoebox home on it is not for the feint
of
heart!
You effectively are funding the construction of a mini town. You build and
maintain mini roads (your driveway). You must build and maintain a mini sewage
plant (Your septic system/pond). You must build and maintain a mini water plant.
(Your well.) You must perform mowing and tree removal for the mini parks of
your town (Your “yard”/acreage). I will write a separate article
detailing our construction woes.
Let me highlight some of the self-reliant features of the house for you. We
did not want to spend a constant stream of Federal Reserve Notes [FRNs]on
maintenance. We used insulated concrete form (ICF) construction for the structural
strength
and the energy efficiency. The metal roof should outlast us. The geothermal
and
the
R-50 walls
of the
ICF are paying us back the initial investment in construction costs. We opted
for no carpeting due to the track in mud nature of the property, having a dog,
and me having allergies. Wood and tile floors don’t hold dirt like carpets
do. Less fire hazard as well. We used commercial steel doors for the exterior
and security-need spots. They have ASSA
[high security] locks. They have peepholes.
The basement has a 10’ square root cellar for the storage of canned produce
from the garden. It also has a safe room/shelter. 12” of concrete overhead.
The well head is enclosed in it. Land line telephone and power service into
it via buried lines. Food stored in it. DC wiring
in place to the attic for when we get to the photovoltaic [PV]
system. We also ran DC wires to each room in the house for the use of LED lighting
off of a battery system. The soapstone
wood
stove
augments the electrically driven geothermal. (In spite of several damaging
thunderstorms this past year, we have not lost power so far – great job
juice Coop!)
The stairwell was kicked out onto the W/NW of the house. This shields the house
from the hottest part of the day’s sunlight, and the coldest winter winds.
We made the stairwell an extra foot wide. What a huge nice difference that
foot makes to walking up and down each day, not to mention moving stuff up
or down them! The mud porch/entry was set up for coming in with muddy boots,
or for snow covered coats. We should have made it 1’ wider, as it can
be a little tight. The bench is great for donning/doffing boots. The tile is
easy to clean the muddy paw prints, human or canine, off of.
Windows were one of the few areas that caused some fireworks. TLSU wanted a
green house in order to take advantage of the great view of the property. I
wanted firing ports to defend against mutant zombie hordes. I am still hugely
uncomfortable with the nakedness the windows leave us with. Yes the view is
great, but what about when we experience incoming rounds, or more mundanely,
when someone comes out to the property while we are away from the house all
day at work and they help themselves to our stuff? Some relief is in sight,
however. We are pricing Shattergard vinyl film for the ground floor windows.
Things That are Still Need on the Home
The great thing about the R-50 ICF walls is that they are R-50 and pretty tough.
The bad thing is that they are R-50 and pretty tough. We can’t hear anything without
a door or window being open. Hence the just purchased weather alert radio for
us from Cabela’s this week. It is kind of eerie waking up at
0200 hours and having no idea if the thunderstorm is just a thunderstorm or
if it is a tornado. The television is useless when the rain is so heavy that
the dish won’t get a signal. With regard to 2-legged varmints, a driveway
MURS Alert
system is on the purchase list as we have had multiple invited guests show
up, beat on the front door, and have to walk around to the living room
windows to get our attention so they can be let inside. Okay for invited guests – certainly
too close for uninvited varmints!
The entry hallway was one of TLSU’s “must haves” in the house
layout. It has worked out well in terms of traffic flow and such. The security
door at the foot of the stairs is a tough choke point to deal with at 0500
in the dark. No light installed there means nothing is visible through the
peephole.
I will have to install a camera and/or light so I don’t open it to let
the dog out in the morning and get rushed by 2-legged varmints.
So far, the only commo needs are between myself and TLSU. When the sister-in-law,
brother-in-law, parents-in-law and my Mom show up and we start pulling
security, we will need to be able
to talk more. I have an old set of TA-312 [field telephone]s and wire for the
primary LP/OP,
but obviously will need more in this area. Just not a sexy/fun area to spend
FRNs on for a combat arms kinda guy, but I am working on the self-discipline
needed.
We did look ahead and sink the FRNs into running 12V wires in the home for
future installation of PV panels and batteries. Obviously things like the Shattergard
film, more food, more Band-aids, etc., are of a higher priority though. We
are working our tails off to reach the 20% equity mark to get rid of the PMI
extortion as well. I still have an ASSA lock to install on the shelter door,
and one to put into the basement door. Other projected door enhancements include
armor plates for the front, outside basement, shelter, and outside storage
doors. There just never seems to be enough $ to go around, does there?
The other major source of fireworks during the home design/build was on-demand
water heaters. Having taken a 30 minute hot shower with one in Germany for
5 marks while on an FTX, I well understand what a brilliant piece of technology
they are. TLSU, having never been outside of CONUS cannot give up on the electric
water heater. She still doesn’t believe that the electricity will ever
go out for more than an hour or two. Wouldn’t it be great to be able
to draw hot water at the kitchen sink, and take a hot shower from a propane
fired on-demand heater? She doesn’t get it yet. Obviously not something
to break up a marriage over. We really did very well on the whole house building
thing. The opposite of what everyone warned us about. I am pretty proud of
that performance!
Food
We started a garden this spring. So far, it is an endeavor run by TLSU. Spinach,
onions, carrots, lettuce, potatoes, beets, and some herbs. I have not been
able to convince her to expand the size. She wants to learn in steps and I
am the whacko that orders 100 seedlings at a time from the conservation department,
which then overwhelms us in the planting department. For example, the first
iteration of this tree-planting endeavor, we got them the Thursday before Easter
weekend. Friday night and all day Saturday we planted our buns off. TLSU was
indeed a great Trooper about it, planting right along with me. Sunday was spent
at church
and pigging out at family’s homes for Easter. Monday I had shoulder surgery
to grind off bone spurs and remove cartilage chips. Too much, too fast. But
at 7 FRNs per 12 seedlings, how can you argue? I have to admit though, that
after two years of the 100 seedlings, I am ready to give it a rest. This year
we settled for seven apple saplings. Initial inspection of the cherry, pecan,
oak, walnut and persimmon seedlings around the house reveals about an 80% survival
rate. Only another 10 years and we will be getting food from them!
The initial freeze dried and bulk storage food needs to be rotated. Anyone
figured out how to do this kind of at home cooking when the two of you work?
The canned/”normal” food is now being rotated with each grocery
store trip. We have canning jars for this year’s veggies and the root
cellar has a robust collection of shelves to store them on. How much is enough?
I
don’t know. Four geographically separate and secure stashes of three
year’s
worth of food for all of the family? Who knows!?
Medical
I have Boo-boo kits just about everywhere now. You know, the band-aid and antibiotic
salve with ibuprofen kit that handles 90% of life’s issues in this area.
Now comes the high-dollar investment stuff. The combat blow-out packs for gunshot
wounds or serious car wrecks. I did go along on a buying trip to a medical
warehouse and got some catheters, sutures, gauze pads, etc.. I did get in on
the last great iodine buy before our loving big brother government banned the
sale of iodine to us mere citizens. (It is a stewable ingredient to make drugs,
you know – “we must deprive/punish all to protect you from a few.
Oh, well, you don’t need to be able to sterilize water anyway – we’ll
take care of you on that too….”)
TLSU and I eat very healthy food – locally raised beef with no antibiotics
or growth hormones. No growth hormone dairy products from a local dairy. Spinach
from the garden. There are sugar detectors on the doors. Also, no chips allowed.
We get to the dentist regularly. We both do Physical Training (PT)
. She jogs 3 miles, 3-4 times per week. I run over lunch at work about 4 miles,
4-5 times
per week
and
lift
weights twice per week.
“Needed Still” list includes: Blow out kits, more bandages, more
hospital type stuff, more medicines, syrup of ipecac, more antibiotics, more
feminine
stuff (think of a vaginal yeast infection with no drug store open), drinking
alcohol, poison Ivy soap and remedies, athlete’s foot cream, more baby
wipes, more hand sanitizer, all forms of baby stuff, get the bone spur ground
smooth in my other shoulder and the cartilage chips taken out, get rid of the
cat (allergies).
Vehicles
We still have the same vehicles we had in 2001. A 1998 Toyota Corolla bought
with 30,000 miles, and a 1999 Ford Explorer bought with 45,000 miles. Both
were
paid in full when bought. Both avoided the 25% loss of value when driving a
new car off the lot. The Corolla gets 37 MPG.
I hate it. Every bit of plastic on it has broken – the car door locking
mechanisms, the trunk lock, the ventilation system fan. It gets 37 MPG. I can’t
find anything to touch that. The Ford is too big to get decent mileage, and
too small to really be
a useful truck. It is paid for and has AWD/4WD.
It always starts. Both vehicles have BIBs and gas masks in them. Both have
trunk guns. Both have roadside gear
to help ourselves out of a jam. We are saving for the replacement of them both.
We are going to be saving for quite a while. We need more cash in the BIBs
and Bug Out Bags (BOBs)
All of the preps in this section were done via Cabela points. I bought gas
and paid for business expenses - everything I could pay for with a credit card
was paid for with the Cabela’s credit card. You get points at some sickening
rate of $.01/FRN spent, $.02/FRN in the store. However, when you buy $6-8,000/month
of stuff between personal and business stuff, it adds up! The gear for the
BOBs & BIBs, weapons gear and parts – a significant percentage – 85%+
- came from Cabela [credit card bonus] points. When I got birthday or Christmas
monetary gifts I spent them on self-reliance items. We did this never incurring
any
interest
penalties because we zero the balance out each month. Our BOBs are set-up to
sustain us for 10 days. They are packed in Cabela’s wet bags for load
out in five minutes. Originally I sought to wear a tactical vest and ruck.
After two unsuccessful winter BOB campouts where I could barely waddle one
mile with
both of them on at the same time, I dropped the vest. TLSU’s back is
in tough shape due to scoliosis, so she is not humping any mammoth rucks with
the extra three mortar rounds and can of 7.62 linked. We also decided that
the G21 was what she could carry and dropped the SKS and chest pouches of 10
round stripper clips. Her ruck is a Camelback Commander. That is as big of
a ruck as she can hope to carry without killing her back. We are not leaving
home to go on a combat patrol in Hit or Fallujah. We are fleeing some kind
danger and have every intention of avoiding additional entanglements, to include
government hospitality suites in stadiums.
The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU)
I started self-reliance the wrong way. No consensus development. I saw a danger
and acted. I am a male/sheepdog/warrior type. I am not sure that I could have
ever persuaded her to participate in any meaningful manner before Y2K. She
has only recently begun to do so after eight years of seeing me provide for
and protect her. I was, however, stubborn/strong enough to do what I thought
was
the right thing and to heck with what was popular. Most “males” check
their gender specific anatomical gear at the wedding alter and continue on
in sheeple status. I get that females are the nurturers. I get that they work
from an emotional starting point, not logical. Not wanting the tornado to destroy
the house or the hurricane to wreck your and the adjoining three counties is,
at best, the French method of addressing life. TLSU is finally helping me to
rotate food via the grocery store purchases. She no longer rolls her eyes or
sighs disgustedly when I spend my Cabela points to buy gear. Once I explained
to her that I was planning to shelter and feed her parents and siblings and
that our one year of food wasn’t going to feed all of them for very long,
she started to get on board. She even likes spending the points off of her
Cabela’s card now. She is running 3-4 times per week and gets some PT
from work outside in the garden. She has come a long way. As best as I can
tell, she will not ever be a warrior. We have come a substantial distance from
sleeping on the couch each time a self-reliance topic hits the table of discussion
though. A definite and growing check mark in the “W” column!
Skills
Skills that I have acquired:
Rifles – renovating Mausers and training at Thunder Ranch helps
your ability to use these tools immensely.
Soldering – fixing plumbing leaks myself vs. paying a plumber $200
to show up and start billing me for work
Building – I invested 13 full work weeks of time during the building
of our home helping the contractor. Some of it was the nubby work of cleaning
up the scrap and sawdust. Some of it was banging in joist hangers. I laid
all the tile and 95% of the wood flooring in the house.
Fix-it – the DR Brush mower has long passed it’s warranty
period and while performing quite admirably, does need attention every now
and then.
The 1974 F100 demands attention regularly. Each of these repair work challenges
teaches me a little more about mechanical items and taking care of things
myself.
Sewing – Yes, my dear Grandmother taught me to sew buttons, and
my Mom taught me to survival sew/repair things. A 1960 gear driven Singer sews
nylon
gear though!; )
Skills still needed:
More First Aid – it appears that a first responder or wilderness 1st
aid course may be in the cards for this year.
More Hand to Hand – my goals and objectives list has had this goal
on it for several years. Good news – I got started on knocking it off the
list. Bad news, it revealed an “old man” shortcoming in my shoulder.
Good news, I am getting the shoulder fixed (hopefully) during “normal” times
versus after Schumerization. I just may get ambushed and not have my trusty
M1A in hand. Having unarmed defense skills means never having to be a steak
dinner/victim.
More riflesmithing – each birthday or Christmas gift of money has
been partially apportioned to the purchase of gunsmithing tooling. I need more
practice
with the tools I have. I still need more tooling. I recently secured Parkerizing
gear, but have not gotten the metal stands for the tanks built. Still,
progress is progress and I can already do more to maintain weapons than
95% of the
population.
Knife making – I just cringe at the idea of spending $300 for top
quality knives. CRKT is my friend. Even better is learning to assemble the
scales and
blank myself. Eventually, knowing how to forge blanks myself would be useful.
Mill lumber – with 95% of my property wooded, I have the material
to be self-reliant with regard to my lumber needs. I need a way to saw the
tree into lumber though. First, the mill, then the skill to use it. Then
I have
the gear to diversify my income and help others.
Have I always done the smartest thing? Absolutely not! Much to the crazed
satisfaction of a former operator buddy, I have cycled through the “best/high
dollar” gear
approach to the “sack of hammers USGI/AK” school of self-reliance.
Don’t get me wrong – I ain’t surrendering my Kifaru rucks
anytime soon! However, there were a great number of FRNs spent on those self-reliance
tuition payments! Have I learned a lot? Absolutely, yes! Am
I better able to maintain my independence and protect and provide for my
family? Absolutely,
yes! Could you do better than I did? Good chance. Have you
done as much as I have in the last 10 years? Only your freedom, loved ones,
and the quality
of your life post-TEOTWAWKI depend on the answer to that one.
« Letter Re: The Importance of Storing Vitamin C |Main| Note from JWR: »
Budget Preparedness--Survival Isn't About Stuff, It is About Skills
I often stress that a key to survival is not what you have, but
rather what you know. (See my Precepts
of Rawlesian Survivalist Philosophy web page.)
In part, I wrote:
Skills Beat Gadgets and Practicality Beats Style. The modern
world is full of pundits, poseurs, and Mall
Ninjas. Preparedness is not just about accumulating a pile of stuff.
You need practical skills, and those only come with study, training, and practice.
Any armchair survivalist can buy a set of stylish camouflage fatigues and an M4gery Carbine
encrusted with umpteen accessories. Style points should not be mistaken for
genuine skills and practicality.
To expand on those precepts, consider the following:
Balanced logistics are important for everyone, but absolutely crucial for
someone that is on a tight budget. If you have a three year food supply, then
a quantity miscalculation for one particular food item will likely be
just an inconvenience. But if you only have a three month supply,
then a miscalculation can be a serious hazard. Be logical, systematic, and
dispassionate in your preparations. You need to develop some detailed lists,
starting with a
"List of Lists." Be realistic
and scale your retreat logistics purchasing program to your budget. Avoid
gong in to debt to "get prepared." A friend of mine who
was a Physician's Assistant went way overboard in 1998 and 1999, stocking
up for Y2K.
The massive credit card debt that he racked
up eventually contributed to a prolonged mental depression.
Choose your retreat location wisely. If you can't afford 40 acres, then be sure to pick the
right 5 or 10 acres.
Finding a property that adjoins public land, and/or property with like-minded
neighbors,
can make a huge difference. The smaller your land-buying budget, the longer
your search should be, to get the most for your money. In today's plunging
real estate market, don't overlook the possibility of finding a foreclosed
("bank
owned") farm or ranch at a "below market" price. Watch the foreclosure
listings in your intended retreat region closely. Two foreclosure monitoring
services that I recommend are RealtyTrac.com
and Foreclosures.com.
Buy used instead of new. It goes without saying that your purchasing dollars
will go farther if you concentrate on quality used tools, guns, and vehicles.
Remember that preparedness is not a beauty contest. There are no "Style"
points awarded. So owning gear with some dings and scratches is not an issue.
Just
be sure to inspect used items very carefully. In the case of buying a used
vehicle, it is worthwhile to run a check on the vehicle's history through
a service like CARFAX.
This will reveal if the vehicle might have been repaired after a major collision.
Also, hire a qualified mechanic to
do some checks before you buy a used rig. That will be
money
well-spent!
Clip coupons, watch and wait for seasonal sales, shop at thrift stores,
go to garage sales and flea markets, attend weekend farm and estate auctions,
and learn
to watch
Craig's List and
Freecycle like
a hawk.
The only
thing better
that finding inexpensive used items is having thing given to
you. This is a common occurrence with Freecycle. For example, it is not unusual
to
have someone
give you several dozen Mason-type canning jars. Just be sure to return the
favor, in the spirit of Freecycle.
Strike a balance between quality and quantity. I'm a big believer in the
old adage: "Better is the enemy of good enough." Why buy a $320
Chris Reeve folding knife when a used $30 CRKT or Cold Steel brand
pocketknife bought on eBay will provide 95% of the
functionality of a custom knife? Buying at 1/10th the price means that you
will have money available for other important logistics and training.
Take advantage of free or low-cost training. The WRSA,
for example, offers shooting and medical training at near their cost.
I've discussed other such training opportunities at length previously in
SurvivalBlog. In my Precepts page, I
noted:
Tools Without Training Are Almost Useless. Owning a gun
doesn't make someone a "shooter" any more than owning a surfboard
makes someone a surfer. With proper training and practice, you will be miles
ahead of the
average citizen. Get advanced
medical training. Get the best firearms
training that you can afford. Learn about amateur radio from your local
affiliated ARRL club.
Practice raising a vegetable garden each summer. Some skills are only perfected
over a period of years.
Learn to distinguish between essentials and non-essentials. Do you really
need cable television? Eating out? snacks from the vending machine? ?
Use the
cash generated to buy the really important things, like
storage food.
When you don't have cash, then apply sweat equity. Do you need pasture fence
or garden fence at your retreat property? Don't hire someone and "have
it done"
Do it yourself. Not only will you save money, but you will also learn valuable
skills. You might even lose some of that flab around your midsection, in the
process. Also consider that people are often willing to barter their excess
tangibles
in
trade for
your skills
and
time.
Do you
have
an elderly neighbor with a big gun collection? Then offer to paint his house
in trade for a couple of guns or a few of those heavy ammo cans that he won't
live long enough to shoot? In my Precepts page, I wrote:
Invest Your Sweat Equity. Even if some of you have a millionaire's
budget, you need to learn how to do things for yourself, and be willing to
get your hands dirty. In a societal collapse, the division of labor will
be reduced tremendously. Odds are that the only "skilled craftsmen" available
to build a shed, mend a fence, shuck corn, repair an engine, or pitch manure
will be you.and your family. A byproduct of sweat equity is muscle
tone and proper body weight. Hiring someone to deliver three cords
of firewood is a far cry from felling, cutting, hauling, splitting, and stacking
it yourself.
People often assume that because my blog
and novel are widely read that I am wealthy.
I
actually
have
a very
modest income. The only reason that our retreat is so well stocked is that
I have been systematically stocking up for 30 years. I am
not a "yuppie survivalist" as at least one fellow blogger claims.
I gave up my Big City salaried job years ago, to concentrate on living self-sufficiently.
Part
of
this was
a conscious
decision
to raise our children in a more wholesome environment. The major drawback is
that the Rawles
Ranch is in such a remote area that we don't get into town very
often.
The Memsahib Adds. The good thing about living so remotely
is there are no shopping opportunities. Even if I had the
urge to indulge in some retail therapy,
I'd have to drive more than two hours to do it. The next best things you can
do is cancel your magazine subscriptions. If you analyze the contents of most
magazines
you
will realize that they are designed to make you dissatisfied with your clothes,
your home decor, garden, electronics, autos because they aren't the latest,
greatest,
and most fashionable. I also highly recommend selling or Freecycling your television,
for the very same reason. A couple of exceptions to our magazine rule are Backwoods
Home, and Home
Power, since they are both light on advertising and heavy on
practical skills.
In closing, do the best you can with what you have. Be truly frugal. I grew
up in a family that still remembered both our pioneer history and the more
recent
lessons of the Great Depression. One
of our family mottos is: "Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without." I
thank my mother for passing that wisdom along to my generation, and I am doing
the same, with my children.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: The Importance of Storing Vitamin C »
Letter Re: An Inexpensive Source for Bulk Silica Gel Desiccant
Jim:
You wrote in reply to a
recent e-mail from "Billfour": "JWR
Replies: That
is a great suggestion. Just beware of any desiccant that has any additives,
dyes, or scents. A perfumed desiccant would be fine for tool storage, but potentially
a disaster for food storage."
I've just been through this. Tidy Cats Crystals has perfume, which I discovered
after getting it home and opening it. (I'll use it for my stored ammo.)
The brand that I have found that has no perfume is the Amazing
Cat Litter brand. It only
has silica gel as the stated ingredient on its Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS).
Also, the chunks of silica gel are larger, with much less dust. I used twist-ties
and brown coffee filters to wrap-up an ounce at a time, which is the approximate
amount needed for six-gallon pails. - Ham
« Letter Re: Can I Burn Home Heating Oil or Kerosene in a Diesel Engine? |Main| A Citizen's Band (CB) Radio Installation Primer, by C.G. »
Letter Re: An Inexpensive Source for Bulk Silica Gel Desiccant
Hi, James
There is always a need for desiccants for various uses, be it food storage, caching,
or other projects. Most who need such things already have a favorite supplier,
but I'll make another recommendation for the sake of saving a few bucks. Any
local grocer, pet supply dealer or Big Box store carries silica-gel cat litter
in amounts from 3 to 30 pounds: Tidy Cats Crystals is one such product,
though there are many. A rounded tablespoon place in a square of mesh fabric
purchased in a craft/hobby department (where it can be bought by the yard--think
about the bird seed packets at weddings) and securely tied [or sewn shut] will
work well when
placed in the desired container; depending on the need, they can also be spooned
directly into the bottom of the vessel. Note that I'm suggesting the clear-blue "Crystals-only" type
which are pure silica; one doesn't want the silicate-clay "Blend" which
is also offered.
Being silicate, they have
the potential for re-use by oven drying. Compared to the cost of individual
commercial [silica gel] packets, this is a bargain. Regards, - Billfour
JWR Replies: That is a great suggestion. Just beware of any
desiccant that has any additives, dyes, or scents. A perfumed desiccant would
be fine for
tool storage, but potentially a disaster for food storage.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Technology After TEOTWAWKI, by JLG in Texas »
Letter Re: The Legality and Ethics of Blocking Roads and Bridges After TEOTWAWKI
Sir:
I live in an area of the south that is fairly rural. People her still
plant gardens, can, hunt, raise livestock and I believe could if need be survive
longer
than most in a crisis time. Don't get me wrong I am stocking and preparing
for a long term survival and defense possibility.
My question is this: The 40 acres I live on is situated on a ridge in this
area surrounded by deep flowing rivers,streams and creeks. These water ways
separate
the area
I live and a metropolitan area 80 miles in one direction and another 60 miles.
In a full collapses such as in your novel "Patriots"
would it be feasible to block or make impassable these bridges as to route
the
flow of scavengers and marauders away from my area. Also it would funnel
any that
would find their way in to my area in from one defensible direction.
I'm talking about doing this only in the event of a full collapse as in TEOTWAWKI.
The only real protection the people in this area will have will be themselves
and
their
neighbors.
Our
group
will be large enough to defend our stronghold
at the size it is now. I just think that a more controlled area with fewer
entry points would be easier to defend. Now we are not going to box ourselves
into a hole, but limiting vehicle access just would be prudent. If we pulled
back closer there are four smaller bridges that are less than a mile away
that would close our "back door" from unexpected visitors. Most of
our neighbors are self reliant and I believe in that situation would agree
that
limiting
access would be to all of those in the "enclave's" best interest.
I'm not talking of destroying them--only blocking them with junk cars and
such. We have a lot of heavy equipment between us and it would not be a problem.
Typically the bridges are in low spots so they are also easily defendable
from higher ground. I know this sounds extreme but we are planning long term
defense and survival. - Southern
Survivor
JWR Replies: Legally and ethically, as an individual you
can only block roads on your own property. But if a small community makes a
collective decision
to block a road or bridge, then that is another matter. I would assume that
every state in the Union has laws forbidding blocking any public road.
Further, as both police
(in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, under color of law) and
various protestors have found, Federal law prohibits blocking interstate freeways.
As I've mentioned in SurvivalBlog several times, it is best to pick
a property that is situated away from channelized
areas (also known as "lines
of drift.") A
ridgetop location is generally quite good, but this of course raises the age-old
issue of clear fields
of fire versus concealment. The best possible solution would be to have a cleared
area for at least 50 yards, yet still have a solid screen of trees close to
any nearby thoroughfares. This necessitates having at least 20 acres--which
is out of the
price range of
many preppers. In the end, it comes down to compromise, and tailoring your defensive
preparations to your locale and to your personal "worst case" expectations.
In my years of consulting work, I've met many folks that have confided that
in the event of an absolute worst case--the dreaded "Mutant Zombie Biker" scenario--they
plan to block public roads or even destroy bridges. Two of my consulting clients
own large Caterpillar-type tractors. I've urged them to not use those
Cats to move earth and rock to block roads, but rather to possibly use
them
as mobile road blocks. Parking a Cat crosswise at the
end of a two-lane bridge (with its blade lowered) will stop most vehicles.
OBTW, when doing this, don't depend on just a keyed switch to disable the vehicle.
Just a few types of key variations were made and/or they can
easily
to bypassed ("hot wired".)
So a mobile roadblock
must be
disabled
by temporarily removing or disabling a crucial ignition, fuel, or hydraulic system
part. (See
how utility companies do so, for some examples.)
By using a mobile road block that is under armed observation 24/7,
you will minimize the risk of alienating your neighbors. Who is to say how
long
a
crisis
might
last?
If
you
were to
block a road with earth
or rock piles, or even with wrecked cars, you would probably infuriate any
neighbors that decide to return to a normal life of work and commuting, as
well as any
that resume hauling
produce
or livestock to market.
Also, as I've pointed out many time in the past: Physical obstacles are just delays--not absolute
safeguards. People will find a way through them, over them, or around them--on
foot if need be. Also, given enough time, almost any obstacle can be reduced
or removed. This
necessitates
covering
any obstacle with armed sentries. For a community in a post-collapse situation,
this is best accomplished by 1.) a mobile roadblock, 2.) prominent warning
signs, and
3.) covered by one
or more well-camouflaged sentries equipped with scoped battle rifles and radios,
from a 200+ yard distance. Just one rifleman in a ghillie suit, set back in
a tree line
can have a tremendous psychological impact in defending a roadblock. ("Where
did
that shot come from?") In my estimation, the traditional "armed
party of men" standing behind barricades manning
a roadblock is a thoroughly antiquated carry-over from the Ancien Régime.
In the modern context, it is just an invitation
to
take casualties, as well as a waste of manpower.)
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Ammunition Reloading for Survival, by NC Bluedog
Ammunition storage is one of the survival planning trinity: ("Beans,
Bullets and Band-Aids"). But what happens when you run out? You can’t
plant a garden for 7.62mm NATO or
cut up old sheets to make .45 ACP.
In this case you need to at least consider the practice (some would say art)
of ammunition
reloading. Speaking from a perspective of more than 10 years experience, I
can honestly say that reloading is no more difficult than repairing a leaking
faucet and baking a loaf of bread. It is very similar to making up a recipe
with a few mechanical interventions. It is also relatively safe, so long as
you don’t try to smoke while measuring powder or try to seat a primer
with a hammer. I will limit this discussion to center fire metallic handgun
and rifle cartridges, but similar considerations would apply to shotshell
reloading.
First, let me present an introduction on ammunition components. There are four
basic ingredients to loaded ammunition: Primer, powder, brass case,
and projectile.
We will handle each in order. We need to be precise in our use of language
(Thank you Jeff Cooper!) A cartridge or round is one unit of loaded ammunition.
A bullet is the projectile of a cartridge (in the same sense that a clip is
different from a magazine). Let me stress at this point that if you already
have all the components, it is far better to put it together now rather
than later. Reloading takes time, something that may be in extremely short
supply in a TEOTWAWKI situation.
If your ammunition inventory is adequate, you should consider keeping some
components for barter or future use, but the
majority of your powder should be in loaded ammunition!
Primers and powder are the two things which cannot be reused and require an
industrial capacity to produce. Making primers out of matchstick heads or smokeless
powder out of nitric acid and cotton should be regarded a fantasy for individuals
wanting to survive. While black powder can be made relatively safely, it will
not function well in modern firearms. There is a reason the old-time black
powder cartridges were as big as cigars, smokeless powder is far more efficient
and safer to handle as well. In other words, if you are considering reloading
sometime in the future, you should store some primers and powder now while
they are available. (A political aside: In addition to banning guns and ammunition,
there have been legislative attempts to ban reloading components.)
Primers come in two sizes each for both pistol and rifle for a total of four
sizes: Small pistol, large pistol, small rifle and large rifle (Pistol in this
sense includes revolver cartridges). The small version of each type is designed
for smaller cartridges and vice versa. While small pistol and small rifle are
essentially the same size (likewise for large pistol and large rifle), they
are designed to ignite vastly different powder charges. Mixing them up can
lead to disaster. An example of a small pistol primer cartridge would be the
9mm NATO (also known as 9x19, 9mm Parabellum and 9mm Luger). The .45 ACP uses
a large pistol primer. The 5.56mm NATO (aka .223
Remington and 5.56x45) uses the small rifle primer, and the 7.62mm NATO (aka
.308 Winchester and 7.62x51)
uses the large rifle primer. Due to the difference in size between small and
large, confusion would be difficult and impossible to use incorrectly, but
do not confuse pistol and rifle primers of the same size.
Besides the four basic sizes, there is a myriad of subtypes, including standard,
magnum, match and military grade. Magnum primers are a niche market and not
used in common caliber ammunition (Note .357 Remington Magnum does not use
a magnum primer), so you can safely ignore them. Match grade primers are supposedly
made with tighter specifications and better quality control. Military primers
typically have a “harder” cup and require a strong firing pin impact
to ignite, but are less likely to be punctured by a misshaped or pointed firing
pin or suffer a slam fire in semi-autos with floating firing pins. The differences
in my experience are minimal to nonexistent and you can safely ignore them
and go with standard primers. Typical military style weapons (in good working
condition) such as AR-15s FN/FALs and M1As work fine with
standard primers. Likewise, the difference between the manufactures such as
Federal, Winchester, Remington and CCI are also minimal.
Reloading powder (also called canister grade propellant) is available in a
confusing array of types from multiple manufacturers. The most distinguishing
characteristic is know as burning rate, with a huge spectrum between the slow
and fast burning (arbitrary unit designation). The burning rate is controlled
by several manufacturing techniques. First is composition. Powders can be either
single or double base, with the double base including a proportion of nitroglycerin
in addition to the nitrocellulose. The size and shape (spherical or rod shaped)
of the powder granules also dramatically alters the burning rate as does various
coatings applied in manufacture. The burning rate is tailored to the pressure
limits of individual cartridges as well as the projectile weight and barrel
length. The general rule is faster powders are used in handguns and slower
powders in rifle ammunition. Smokeless powder is listed by weight (typically
in grains, one pound is 7000 grains) for a given charge, but is usually measured
volumetrically to obtain the desired weight. This is one reason I prefer spherical
(also called ball) propellants. The spheres measure much more uniformly when
metered by volume.
Just as we simplified the primer issue down to four basic types, the more than
100 different powders available can be vastly simplified for personal reloading.
For example, I typically store only four different powders and could go with
two in a pinch, one moderately fast for handguns and one moderately slow for
rifles. Now, let me discuss safety. While smokeless powder is very stable,
it is flammable. Unless contained in a closed space (such as a cartridge) it
will only burn, albeit vigorously. It will not explode if dropped or otherwise
mistreated. Primers on the other hand are designed to explode if crushed. Treat
them as you would treat loaded ammunition. Both components prefer a stable
room temperature without excessive humidity and will survive almost indefinitely
in such an environment. One thousand primers takes up about as much space as
two decks of cards and an eight pound jug of powder is about the size of a
gallon of milk.
Our next component is the brass cartridge case, hereafter simple called brass
or case. Apart from factory new brass, most reloading is done with used cases.
These can come from collecting your own to scavenging the local shooting range.
I prefer to reuse my own brass since I know its’ history, but “when
times get tough….” When scavenging brass, one needs to be extremely
careful. Modern factory ammunition is made with several different metals besides
brass. Steel and aluminum are the most common and are definitely not reloadable
in a safe way. They need to be crushed and disposed of. In addition, some foreign
ammunition is Berdan primed (discussion beyond the scope of this article) and
also is not easily or safely reloaded. The problem is that externally, it is
near impossible to tell the difference. For safety’s sake, discard everything
which doesn’t have a recognizable domestic US factory stamp on the case
head (Winchester, Federal, Remington, etc.). Another problem arises with surplus
military brass. These frequently have crimped primer pockets, and while reloadable,
require special care which will be discussed later. All collected brass should
be cleaned and sorted by caliber. Be careful here since some shooting range
ammunition (not necessarily “common caliber”) can be very similar.
For example, a 9x21 is only slightly longer than the much more common 9mm NATO,
but would be catastrophic if it functions at all in a common 9mm. Another common “competition
cartridge” (not “common caliber”) is the.38 Super, which
is also very similar to the 9mm NATO. Again, the safest bet is to discard (or
otherwise sequester) any brass without a legible case stamp indicating caliber.
When scavenging brass, it is also important to discard those with cracks in
the case mouth. This is typically due to the “work hardening” of
the brass during repeated resizing operations. Cases with small dents induced
during ejection in a semi-auto can usually be reused in my experience for routine
plinking ammunition, but shouldn’t be used for loads pushing the pressure
limit. In fact, I wouldn’t use scavenged brass for any “top end” load
since internal volume can vary significantly.
The business end of loaded ammunition, the projectile (aka bullet), also comes
in a withering array of sizes and weights. For simplicities’ sake, there
are two main types, either lead or jacketed. Both types can come in several
styles such as full metal jacket (FMJ), hollow-point, spitzer, round nose,
truncated cone, semi-wadcutter, etc. The only safety caveat here is that “pointed” bullets,
such as spitzers, must not be used in tubular magazine rifles (such as lever
action .30-30’s) since the cartridges are “nose to tail” and
recoil could fire the stacked cartridges. In this case the bullet point is
acting like a firing pin to the cartridge in front of it.
Factory bullets are sold in a specific bore size, commonly measured in thousandths
of an inch, and weight, commonly measured in grains. This is where a lot of
confusion is introduced because of the “naming nomenclature” of
our ammunition. For example, .38 caliber is actually 0.357” and is one
reason why .38 Special can be safely fired in a .357 Magnum. To add to the
confusion, our naming nomenclature is used for a marketing perspective, rather
than precise use of language. For example, both .38 Super and .357 SIG use
9mm bullets (0.355”) instead of the logical .38 caliber (0.357”)
bullets their names would indicate. Here is a table of common caliber ammunition
bullet sizes and range of bullet weights:
| Cartridge |
Nominal Diameter (inches) |
Nominal Weight Range (grains) |
5.56mm NATO
.223 Remington |
.224 |
40-70 (55-62 most common) |
7.62mm NATO
.308 Winchester
.30-06
|
.308 |
110-180 (150-165 most common) |
9mm NATO
.38 Super
.357 SIG |
.355 |
115-147 (124 most common) |
| .357 Magnum |
.357 |
110-180 (158 most common) |
.40 S&W
10mm |
.400 |
135-200 (175 most common) |
| .45 ACP |
.451 |
160-300 (230 most common) |
While it is possible, making jacketed bullets from scratch is difficult. Cast
bullets, on the other hand, are relatively easy to make with appropriate tools
and supplies. Safety note: Molten lead burns skin like almost nothing else,
and lead fumes are dangerous, so adequate ventilation is absolutely critical.
Tools needed include a melting pot with spout or ladle, bullet mold and water
bath/bucket. Lead can be obtained from wheel weights (make sure they are lead,
other metals are used) or by “mining” the berm at the shooting
range. This “dirty” lead will need to be washed, melted, all non-lead
metal (steel weight clips, bullet jacket material, etc.) removed and flux added
to remove dirt. I prefer to obtain cleaned and fluxed lead from other sources
(eBay, etc.) but it is more expensive and as always.
The keys to making good cast bullets are a properly heated and smoked mold.
Nonetheless, the first few casts will likely be misshapen, and need to be thrown
back into the melting pot. I prefer the micro banded or “tumble lube” bullet
molds by Lee Precision since they typically don’t require resizing and
are easily lubed with their Liquid Alox bullet lube.
There are several caveats with regard to using cast bullets. First is that
lead bullets leave a residue in the barrel (commonly called leading), particularly
when fired at higher velocities (greater than 1200-feet per second) and become
significantly worse the higher you go. Second, barrels designed to “swage” the
bullet (most typically Glock with their hexagonal rifling) will cause excessive
pressure when fired with lead bullets. A simple solution is a drop in replacement
barrel with conventional rifling like the Lone Wolf brand.
The velocity limitation imposed with using cast bullets can effectively preclude
their use in semi-auto rifles since effective operation is severely limited
at the lower velocities. Thus, if you are planning to reload rifle ammunition,
I would suggest a supply of jacketed bullets of appropriate size and weight
for your particular firearm.
So, now you have your supply of primers and powder, bullets (either cast or
store bought jacketed) and a fresh supply of brass from the recent firefight
with the Mutant Zombie Hordes, where do you star?. Reloading consists of eight
steps: Cleaning the brass case, decapping the spent primer, resizing the brass
case, re-priming the brass case, belling the case mouth to accept the bullet,
charging the case with powder, seating the new bullet and reshaping or crimping
the case mouth. Several of these steps can be accomplished at the same time,
such as decapping/resizing the brass case, case mouth belling/powder charging
and bullet seating/crimping but I will discuss each separately.
Cleaning is usually done with a vibratory cleaner with a mild abrasive such
as ground corn cob. I prefer the Dillon products, but others are equally useful.
Depending on the state of your brass, all that may be needed is a quick wipe
with a paper towel. It is critical to handle each case to examine for damage
and discard suspect ones.
Decapping the brass case consists of running a punch down the case mouth to
push out the old primer. This is where care must be exercised in cases with
crimped-in primers. After decapping crimped-in primers, the primer pocket must
be reformed to accept a new primer. This can be accomplished by reaming the
pocket with a primer pocket reaming tool or re-swaging the pocket.
Resizing the brass case is mechanically complex, but is easily accomplished
with an appropriate resizing die and reloading press. It is necessary at this
point to bring up the concept of headspace. Headspace is simply the distance
from the bolt face of the firearm to the point where further advancement of
the cartridge into the chamber is stopped. Rimmed cartridges headspace on the
rim, since that is what prevents the cartridge from going further into the
chamber. Rimless cartridges either headspace on a belt (in “belted” magnum
cartridges, serves same function as a rim but leads to easier feeding), on
the shoulder of bottleneck cartridges or the case mouth in straight-walled
ammunition. This is an important concept since if the cartridge is too long
for the chamber; the bolt will not close correctly. If it is too short, the
firing pin may not strike the primer, or worse, it may push the cartridge further
into the chamber before ignition, where pressure locks the case in position
and pushes back on an unsupported case head. Brass is weak compared to steel
and the pressure pushing the case head back to the bolt face may stretch the
brass to where it separates from the body of the cartridge. This is known as
case head separation, and puts extremely hot gas under tremendous pressure
venting right next to your face. Beside the risk of injury or damage to the
firearm, you now have the task of removing a now headless cartridge out of
the chamber before the firearm can be reused.
Resizing the brass case consists of squeezing down the now slightly expanded
fired case back to nominal size. Because of the stresses imparted, lubrication
is usually necessary (except in straight-walled ammunition using carbide dies)
and is easily accomplished with a simple spray of case lube prior to resizing.
This reforming of the brass makes the metal hard and brittle and limits the
number of times it can be done without cracking (most commonly seen as cracks
in the case mouth which undergoes the most change in size). The only dimension
which is not squeezed back to nominal size is the overall length (OAL) and
each subsequent resizing operation tends to lengthen the case neck. After resizing
a couple of times, the neck may need to be trimmed in order to get the OAL
back into specification. I usually discard such brass, since it is removing
brass which has come from somewhere else in the case, thus weakening it to
some extent. This is not so much a concern for low pressure cartridges such
as .45 ACP but can be significant in higher pressure cartridges. In a TEOTWAWKI
situation, re-annealing the brass (heating up and quenching) and case trimming
may be necessary to get the most life out of a given case.
Re-priming is simply the act of inserting a new appropriate size primer into
the brass case. This can be done either on the press, or with a handheld re-priming
tool. If I am using a single stage press (where each step is done on a batch
of brass before moving on to the next step), I prefer to use the handheld tool.
If I am using the progressive press, I leave it up to the press in its sequence
of events.
Case mouth belling is the process of slightly enlarging the case mouth to provide
ease of bullet insertion. This step is typically not necessary with boat-tailed
jacketed bullets, but is critical with cast lead bullets to prevent shaving
of the soft lead.
Powder charging is another critical step, similar to resizing. First, you need
a recipe. Good sources for a recipe are the powder manufacturers’ and
bullet manufacturers’ loading data books. The powder charge must be matched
to the cartridge, the weapon and the particular bullet. Load data will typically
list a starting load and a maximum load. You need to stay within these limits.
Variations within these limits looking for optimum accuracy is know as “working
up a load”, and is the source of a lot of enjoyment in these times prior
to TEOTWAWKI. Powder dispensing is usually done by adjusting the volume of
powder to give a specific weight charge. The ultimate in precision is accomplished
by hand weighing each charge, but volume dispensers are much more convenient
for routine reloading. Periodic checking of the weight of a “thrown” charge
is warranted to make sure your settings haven’t changed.
Bullet seating is simply the process of seating the bullet on the case mouth
and pushing it down into the neck (or the body in straight-walled ammunition)
so the cartridge OAL is within specification. Once the die is adjusted for
the correct depth, subsequent members of the batch will have the same length.
Following bullet seating, reforming the case mouth or crimping the bullet to
prevent movement under recoil may be necessary. There are two types of crimps.
Taper crimping simply smoothes out any belling and snug’s up the case
mouth like a turtle neck sweater. This is used in straight-walled ammunition
like pistol cartridges where you need the “step off” from brass
to bullet in order to headspace correctly. Roll crimping actually cinches up
the case mouth, much like a clothes belt, to provide purchase and prevent movement.
Bottleneck cartridges and rimmed revolver cartridges are usually roll crimped.
So what kind of supplies do I need to “roll my own” now or when
times get bad? Basic equipment would consist of:
Reloading manual.
Single stage press (Lee makes a nice, inexpensive one).
Die set for your caliber (available from several manufactures).
Powder/bullet weight scale.
Dial caliper/micrometer.
Hand priming tool.
Powder funnel
For the consumable supplies, I consider the amount needed for 1,000 rounds
of loaded ammunition. I choose this not only because it is a nice round (and
comforting) number, but because our weights are measured in grains and there
are 7000 grains in a pound. If you know the charge (or lead bullet) weight,
you simply divide the number by 7 to tell you how many pounds are needed to
make 1,000 rounds of ammunition. For example, if the charge weight of powder
is 35 grains, 35 divided by 7 equals 5, so I will need 5 pounds of powder to
make 1,000 rounds with that powder. If my bullet mold makes 230 grain bullets,
230 divided by 7 is slightly less than 33, so I will need 33 pounds of lead
to make 1,000 bullets.
For my logistics, I limit myself to “common caliber” ammunition.
For handguns, this means 9mm NATO and .45 ACP. For rifles, this means 5.56mm
NATO and 7.62mm NATO. For handgun reloading, I mostly use two moderately fast
powders both of which work fine for 9mm NATO and .45 ACP. These are Hodgdon
HP38 and Accurate #5 powders. These have similar burning rates, but the HP38
uses a significantly lighter charge which makes it more economical.
For rifle reloading, I choose two moderately slow powders both of which work
fine for 5.56mm NATO and 7.62mm NATO. These are Hodgdon H335 and Accurate 2230.
Likewise, the burning rates are close and charge weights nearly identical.
Since cast lead bullets are not appropriate for these rounds, you will obviously
need 1,000 jacketed bullets for either.
Supplies Needed for 1,000 Rounds by Caliber:
| Component |
.45 ACP |
9mm NATO |
7.62mm NATO |
5.56mm NATO |
| Casting Lead or Jacketed Bullets |
230 grains = 33 Pounds of Lead |
124 grains = 18 Pounds of Lead |
Need 1,000 FMJ Bullets |
Need 1,000 FMJ Bullets |
| Primers |
1,000 Large Pistol |
1,000 Small Pistol |
1,000 Large Rifle |
1,000 Small Rifle |
| Hodgdon Powder |
5.3 grains = 0.76 Pounds of HP38 |
4.4 grains = 0.63 Pounds of HP38 |
44 grains = 6.3 Pounds of H335 |
25 grains = 3.6 Pounds of H335 |
| Accurate Powder |
8.5 grains = 1.22 Pounds of AA #5 |
6.2 grains = 0.89 Pounds of AA #5 |
44 grains = 6.3 Pounds of AA 2230 |
25 grains = 3.6 Pounds of AA 2230 |
Like baking bread, reloading can be enjoyable and a real valuable skill in
bad times. The costs associated need not be excessive. - NC Bluedog
JWR Adds: While 5..56mm NATO and .223 Remington have quite similar case
dimensions and loading specifications, they are not completely interchangeable.
For example, it is not considered
safe to shoot commercial soft nose .223 loads in a semi--auto rifle chambered
for 5.56mm NATO. The same warning applies to 7.62mm NATO and.308 Winchester.
Use caution and use the appropriate safety equipment when
storing powder and primers, when reloading ammunition, and when
melting lead/bullet casting. Study
the standard safety warnings before you begin!
« Letter Re: Sword Ban Begins on April 6th in the United Kingdom |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Learn How to "Roll Your Own" Ammo
James;
One skill that will be in great demand by almost everyone in a post-TEOTWAWKI environment
will be a skilled and resourceful ammunition reloader. Equipment
is relatively
inexpensive and downright cheap if you know where to look. Pawn
shops almost never buy reloading equipment because it is slow and, or difficult
to move. I have made arrangements with a few pawn shop owners and when a batch
of reloading stuff comes available from estates they just give them my number.
No matter how much gear there is, a pawn shop will only offer, if they even
make an offer about a hundred bucks. I usually try to offer the widows a fair
price but in the end you are still buying for pennies on the dollar. Often
reloading gear will be given to you if you show an interest and a little respect.
It is an opportunity to acquire odd caliber dies, bullets, brass and often
large stores of powder. The old reloading books are great references for older
powders
that will still be usable if stored properly. Always store your powder in a cool,
dry and dark place. I am using some 30 year old powder that was stored this way
and it works just fine. One can never have too much powder, [too many primers,]
or
too many reloading
manuals.
Any gun shop that sells reloading equipment has free loading data provided my
the powder and bullet manufactures and these small books can be acquired by writing,
calling or going to the powder and bullet companies web sites. These are invaluable
resources as they try to show case how versatile their products can be and the
large reloading manuals will leave out some less than ideal powder, bullet, caliber
combinations that we may be forced to try some day simply because of space limitations
and the large manuals are somewhat expensive although necessary. Remember that
we are trying to make safe reliable ammo that will suffice for the purpose at
hand and we are not trying to come up with the perfect powder, bullet combo that
will better factory ballistics.
JWR is right when he suggests that you stock only common caliber ammo in large
quantities for yourself. However, there are still going to be quite
a few .32 Winchester Special, 38-55 and especially 30-30 Winchesters around that
will
need
ammunition
and
all
three of those caliber cases can be made from fired .30-30 cases. A host of
calibers can have their brass cases formed from the very common .30-06 such as
.270 Winchester and .25-06 just by sizing the necks down. The.308 Winchester
(7.62x51mm) is
the
parent case for .243 Win,..260 Rem, and 7mm-08. Simple neck resizing is all that
is necessary and all it takes is a little knowledge and the correct dies.
Much more elaborate cartridge conversions can be done by annealing the cartridge
brass (necks only--never the bases) simply by standing the cases in
an inch of water, heating them until red with a torch and then knocking them
over to cool
in the water. This softens the brass and makes splitting case necks less likely.
Brass work hardens as it is reloaded and this process is a useful skill to prolong
case life even for common calibers. Calibers like the 7.5x55mm Schmidt Rubin
in the well made Swiss [K31] rifles that have flooded the market the past few
years are easy to fabricate from the very common .308 Win cases if you know where
to
look for specs and the place to look is "The Handloaders Manual of Cartridge
Conversions"
by Donnelly & Towsley from Stoeger Publishing. It is a great resource and
it covers more than 1,000 cartridges in detail with accurate drawings, capacities
and dimensions. With this book a set of good calipers, micrometer and reloading
data there are very few calibers that one can not reloaded.
Anytime someone asks you if you want a small lot of odd caliber of brass take
it and clean, sort and store it. It doesn't matter if you don't have a gun in
that caliber, someone, somewhere will or it might be used to create cases for
another caliber There are only four sizes of boxer primers so stock up on those.
Large rifle, small rifle, large pistol and small pistol and don't worry about
magnum primers just use one of the hotter standard primers such as Winchester
's Stainless. The only caveat here is gas auto loading rifles should only use
CCI #34 or #41 hard military primers to prevent slam fires.
There are some powders that are very versatile and can be used for many calibers,
for example Unique handgun powder can be used for just about every pistol caliber.
It might not be the perfect choice for certain cartridges but it would certainly
serve the purpose.
Reloading skills can be bartered for other things because a firearm without ammunition
doesn't even make a good club. As charity you might be the only person that can
give a family a means of self defense by reloading ammo for them that is impossible
to obtain any other way.
Since you can't reload .22 rimfire ammo, buy a couple of the 550 round boxes
every time that you are at Wal-Mart, or mail order 5,000 round. cases. This is
something
that
almost everyone can afford. While you are making connections at the pawn shops
pick up some used .22 rifles, I often can buy Glenfield and Marlin autos for
less than 50 bucks apiece if I shop in the spring and avoid the 1st and 15th
of the month and go on the first of the week. Pawn shop owners are more likely
to cut you a deal at these times because of cash flow. What a great trade item
or gift to some deserving but unprepared family
Bullet casting equipment is often included with reloading equipment and this
simple skill is another arrow in your quiver. The
Cast Bullet Association has
a free forum that has a wealth of knowledge and any question
that you have will be answered by the top experts in this field in an informative
and entertaining way. Cast bullets were used for all hunting and war purposes
for centuries before jacketed bullets came along in the late 1800s. You will
notice that some of the cast bullet rifle shooters are getting 10 shot groups
around an inch at 200 yards! I assure you that my efforts have never been that
amazing but then I'm not a top competitor.
Making bullets and reloading ammo could make your talents very sought after over
a fairly large geographic area so be prudent about your security measures.
Word of your skills might bring about many barter opportunities that otherwise
might be impossible. As charity, you might save an entire family's lives for
very little investment of resources and we all want to help the good guys out
if we
can. Folks will want to insure your safety if you have built up
a
relationship
with them and provide a necessary service.
I have an extensive list of reloading equipment but have invested less than the
cost
of
a FAL or M1A.
I've been at this for almost 40 years now and have taught Boy Scouts, housewives,
service veterans, preachers or anyone that asked the necessary
skills to produce quality ammunition. Several times I have been given firearms
simply because ammo was unavailable and I haven't failed to produce good safe
ammo for any gun yet. Get your beans, bullets and band-aids in order first, and
then get started looking for the tools and acquire the skills to become the community
Ammo Cobbler. - East Tennessee Hillbilly
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Lessons From Fiction--A Critique of "I Am Legend", by Michael Z. Williamson »
Letter Re: Advice on Long Term Ammunition Storage Techniques
Mr. Rawles:
You recently wrote: "Oxygen absorbing packets would have no efficacy
for ammunition storage. (These are designed just for killing insect larvae
in storage
foods)." Sorry,
Jim, but that's not quite correct. Oxygen absorbing packets come in a variety
of sizes and do their job very well. Their job? Absorbing oxygen.
They are placed in packets of food such as jerky to reduce amount of oxygen which
degrades the flavor of the food. That they also make life more difficult for
bugs is a side-effect.
The ability to absorb nearly all the free oxygen in an enclosed space makes
them uniquely qualified for preservation of a variety of things - including
guns and ammo. Back when Y2K was the big issue, I enclosed an SKS [carbine],
a hundred rounds
of ammo and several oxygen absorbing packets in a plastic tube with and glued-on
caps. I stored it outside for a year before I opened it up to check it out.
When I made my initial cut into the pipe I was rewarded with a "hiss" as
air entered the pipe. Since oxygen comprises about 16% of our sea-level atmosphere
and since it was now tied up in the packets I was left with a partial vacuum
inside the pipe. Upon reassembling the rifle, I loaded it with the ammo it
had been stored with and fired it.
I need to point out that this experiment was conducted in Oregon, a fairly
wet climate, and that after close inspection of the rifle, I found no rust
on any of the metal. Obviously, oxidation of the steel couldn't occur when the
oxygen
wasn't free to combine with the iron. - D.Y.
JWR Replies: I should have been more thorough
in my reply to that letter, when I mentioned Oxygen
(O2) absorbing packets.
Instead of dismissively writing "...have no efficacy for ammunition storage" I
should have written
"...are not the best choice for ammunition storage". (I will update
that post.) I will elaborate:
If you are the "belt
and suspenders" type,
then by all means use both desiccant packets (such as silica gel) and O2
absorbing packets. But of the two,
desiccants are much more reliable. The formation of
rust takes two ingredients interacting with ferrous metals: moisture
and oxygen. Ditto for oxidation of copper and brass. Without moisture present,
corrosion will not occur with typical
atmospheric oxygen levels. Hence, O2 absorbers are not "uniquely qualified",
as you asserted.
Both types of packets will work in protecting guns or ammunition is sealed
containers, but desiccants have far more reliable efficacy. The biggest
problem with typical
food grade
O2
absorbing
packets
is that there
is no easy way of insuring
that they
were
handled
properly
before
they
came to you.
The O2 absorbing packets that I have seen all have gas-permeable coverings.
If the seal on the outer package that the packets
were shipped in was compromised, or if they were removed from their original
packaging and later
re-packaged, then they will have virtually no usefulness. They are effectively
"used
up"
when they come in contact with
a large volume of air for more than a few hours. And once used, these packets
cannot be reactivated at home. You have to buy new ones.
But unlike O2 absorbing packets, if you use silica gel desiccants, you can
reactivate them by simply putting them in a dehydrator (or in a kitchen oven
on a 150 degree F setting) overnight. Using this method, they can be used over
and over. This
is vastly superior, especially in the context of a survival situation where
regular commerce is disrupted. And, as I've mentioned previously in SurvivalBlog,
in the present day, desiccants are often available
free for the asking. Just make a few phone calls. Piano shops often
get musical instrument shipments that include large desiccant packs. Most
of these get thrown away.
So if you are going to depend on one of the other for firearms and ammunition
storage, in my opinion you should choose silica gel desiccants rather
than O2 absorbers. OBTW, beware of re-using any packets that you find
in jerky packaging. These sometimes include an integral moisturizing packet,
to prevent jerky from
becoming too dry. Those packets would of course be counterproductive, for ammunition
or gun storage. Again, only use O2 absorbing packets that are factory
fresh, and preferably that come vacuum shrink wrapped. Otherwise,
you have no way of knowing whether or not they have already been chemically neutralized.
« Letter Re: "Ark" Storage Food Buckets as Sam's Club (and formerly at COSTCO) |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Use of Force in Retreat Security--Planning for Rules of Engagement and Levels of Force
James,
I finished my copy of the [post-nuke novel] "Malevil" [by Robert Merle.] One scene that was particularly well done was when the looter/vandals
start destroying the wheat planting. I could see myself paralyzed by the dilemma:
If they completely destroy my garden,then my family's survival becomes less--perhaps
very much less--probable. When I start shooting them their probability
of survival drops to zero.
From my understanding of decision making, especially decision making under
stress, it is very important to have crystal clear, absolutely unambiguous
triggers or "switches". Pull that trigger or switch and the pre-made
decision is implemented.
Triggers need to be revisited as circumstances change. Rowdies pilfering pears
from the tree in your yard should elicit a different response today than
it would after TSHTF.
I can make the case that anybody who does not demonstrate absolute respect
for another's private property will imperil other's lives post TSHTF. Post
TSHTF, the margin for error will be very much less. The margin
between a child surviving until the next harvest, or not surviving, could easily
be as small
as 25 pounds of corn or wheat. Under a "Malevil" or "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse" scenario I think
I would have few qualms about shooting. However, circumstances that
are less absolute would be very difficult for me.
I suspect that you have given the topic substantial thought. Is there a short
list of questions to "test" a circumstance-a short list that would
be of use to the SurvivalBlog community? Thank You, - Joe and Ellen
JWR: Replies: One important yet sadly under-emphasized aspect
of preparedness is access to less-than-lethal weaponry.
Having less-than-lethal weapons available to supplement your firearms
is important for two reasons: 1.) To show restraint and respect for human life,
and 2.) To keep
you
out
of jail
for
reckless
endangerment, assault, attempted murder, or murder. I cannot overstate
the point that the chances of a full-blown multigenerational societal
collapse are very small, Thus, the odds are that you will
still
have
contact
with functioning police and sheriff departments, and might end up answering
to the criminal justice system if you use unjustifiable or disproportionate
force
in self defense.
Of course if someone is shooting at you, you have the right and duty to defend
yourself and your family. (As a Christian, I found this
piece by Brandon Staggs, and
this
Crusader Knight piece helped me resolve this issue with certainty.)
Do
not endanger yourself unnecessarily
just
for the sake of employing less than lethal
weapons. There could very well be a situation where you think that
you are dealing with an unarmed intruder, only to have them then produce a
concealed weapon.
If that happens, it could easily get you killed. For that reason, I recommend
concentrating on less-than-lethal weapons that you can employ from
a distance.
Anything "up close and personal" has multiple risks. One of the principles
that is stressed again and again when training police officers and prison
guards is that proximity increases risk. If you can maintain distance
form your opponent,
you will minimize your risk of being overpowered or killed. This also meshes
nicely with the "defense in depth" approach that I stress with my consulting
clients. By placing multiple barriers between your family and the bad guys,
you will greatly
increases
your
chances
of avoiding
harm.
Sometimes a display of force will be enough to discourage
looters to go find easier pickings. One of my consulting clients is rancher
in the intermountain west that has large a 3/4"-thick
steel plate hung up on chains above his perimeter fence gate, which is 250
yards from his house. (He has a typical western ranch entry gate with a very
high, stout
crosspiece.)
He's told me is that his intention is that if miscreants stop and show signs
of forcing his gate, he will used a scoped FAL rifle
to apply several rapid shots to that steel plate. He calls it his "Go
away" bell. Hearing that "bell" will be a clear message to the
malo hombres: "You have 250 yards of open ground to traverse to get
to my house. Do you feel
lucky, or bulletproof?"
In hours of darkness, in genuinely Schumeresque times, it is likely
that a semi-auto burst of tracers fired over the heads of a gang of looters
might
have a similar effect. One of my readers also suggested placing Tannerite targets
in prominent positions around a retreat perimeter. Depending on the circumstances,
that might be a good technique for getting ruffians to leave.
One strong proviso: The use of "warning shots" could be misconstrued. State laws on this vary widely. In some states, this is often considered justifiable, but it in others it is
a potential felony. I would only recommend doing this in the midst of a true "worst case" societal collapse, only from a long distance (firing from cover), and only if no law enforcement were available to call. Do
not do this in present day circumstances or you will risk getting sued or prosecuted!
Please don't mistake any of the foregoing as sure solutions.
Merely scaring off looters might not be sufficient. Certainly don't use displays
of force more than once, per customer. The first time should be their
only warning. Be prepared, if need be, to follow it up with a genuine dose
of RBC
if they persist and thereby demonstrate that they plan to do you in.
Here are some other non-lethal weapon options:
Pepper Spray Alarms -
either trip wired or set off by electronic sensor. These can fill
a room with pepper spray in seconds. One variant fires up
to four times in sequence. A friend of mine has one of these mounted in the
vented bottom of a mailbox on his porch. It is wired for activation (on command)
from inside the house.
"Ferret" 12
gauge shells (These are shotgun shells, that instead of lead pellets
contain large capsules of CS tear
gas or OC powder.
They form an irritant dust cloud, on impact. These are not very effective
outdoors, but they are very effective in enclosed spaces.
Say,
for example, you saw an intruder enter your garden shed, but would feel endangered
if you left your house to approach the shed to confront him. Two or three
Ferret rounds fired into the shed would probably do the trick. (Passing through
a
sheet
of plywood,
in fact, is the best way to get full dispersal from a Ferret round.
CS riot control grenades. These are similar to a smoke grenade,
but issue forth huge clouds of CS smoke. I see a few of these at gun
shows, including some that were marketed by Smith & Wesson. They can be thrown, but also
could also be rigged to be set off by pulling a cable or lanyard, from a considerable
distance.
Since most of these these are pyrotechnic, be forewarned that there is a fire
hazard. Some
of the latest ones use CO2 to propel a vapor.
Rubber
bullets and beanbag rounds. These are deigned to bruise rather than
penetrate. (This
ammo was
originally
designed
for
riot
control.) Be careful to aim fairly low to void any pellets striking you opponent
in the face.
Speaking of these, I've heard of rubber bullets being used on moose and bear
in residential areas. These critters often become destructive,
typically tearing apart people's fruit and nut trees. Rubber bullets and 12
gauge beanbags are a non-lethal solution.
Pepper gas and CS (liquid stream or fog) dispensers. These
are risky because they requite proximity. But at least the dispensers are small
and can be kept close
at
hand. Here at the Rawles
Ranch we have occasional ursine visitors, so except in winter
(when bears are denned up) all of the members of our family habitually go armed
whenever
we
step
more than a few yards away from our house. Before they were old enough to
carry
handguns,
our children
usually
carried large 15% pepper spray (OC) canisters.
Tasers. These could be practical, but again, they are only
useful with about 15 feet. I don't recommend them unless you live in a gun-deprived
locality.
Stun guns. Even worse than a Taser, these require direct
contact. I don't recommend them
Impact weapons (Batons, kubatons, walking sticks, et cetera)
These are at the bottom of my list because they require immediate contact.
They also require
considerable
training
and practice. Their application in subduing someone is practically a martial
art form, and is much, much more difficult than portrayed in movies
and television. Too little force can merely be antagonistic or possibly result
in a miscreant
disarming you and use the weapon on you. . Too much force
can be crippling, disfiguring, or lethal. (Any blows to the neck or head, for
example,
are potentially lethal,
and if you use them, in the eyes of the law it would not be much different
than pulling the trigger of a gun.)
You might also find some other weapon possibilities at the Less-Lethal.org web
site.
Without having non-lethal weapons available, your only other choice would
be attempting to use a lethal weapon in a less than lethal manner (typically,
with warning shots.) Do
not consider using a firearm with the intent to wound an
opponent. By doing so, at the very least you will create an adversary that
will most likely seek vengeance
whenever
and wherever he can
get it: There is nothing quite like a vendetta, particularly during
a period of lawlessness. He may later ambush you. He may snipe at your retreat
from
long
distance. He may
poison
your well.
He
may
burn
your
grain
fields.
He may
even
wait and
later meet you in court, where he will have some nasty scars to display. I
regularly get letters from readers, asking about using bird shot or the proverbial
"shotgun
loaded with rock salt". Those are both likely to either get you killed,
or get you sued out of all of your worldly possessions. In short: don't
consider using any intentionally maiming weapon.
Whenever you use amy weapon, you need to think through the implications.
Even what looks like a "worst case" situation might suddenly and
unexpectedly end. When order is restored, you could be facing your opponent
in the most
dangerous
arena
of all: the courtroom.
Think Through Anticipated Levels of Force
When police officers train, they typically learn force escalation. An officer
doesn't doesn't use his service automatic on an unruly drunk. That would be
considered grossly disproportionate force. Law enforcement
officers have detailed rules of proportionate force and force escalation drilled
into them from Day One at the academy. Civilians are not held to
quite
the
same standards, but proportionate force and reciprocal escalation of force
are both long-standing precepts used by the court system in judging guilt
or innocence.
There might be a situation where uninvited guests
are raiding your garden or fruit trees. If it is dark (quite likely), you
may not
be able
to
determine
if they are armed. In such a situation, it might be better to have alternatives
like trip flares or remotely triggered floodlights. Also see some of the recent
SurvivalBlog posts on infrared (IR) floodlights and/or IR cyalume trip flares
used in conjunction with Starlight technology (light amplification) night vision
gear. These will give you a strong advantage and most likely send the ruffians
to flight.
Is Mr. Badguy there to siphon the gas
out of your vehicle, or steal the vehicle itself? Does he want apples from
your orchard, or does he want to kill you and take over your retreat? Is
he there to steal a couple of chickens, or to kidnap your daughter? Does a
stranger merely want a handout or is he looking for the chance to carry out
a home invasion?
How can you determine their intentions? That is a toughie. But there are some
red flags to watch for. If a party that is approaching your retreat dwelling
is entirely armed
men, then odds are that they have murder on their minds. But if a group includes
women
and
children, the
threat
level
is
likely
much lower. (They probably wouldn't endanger them if they were expecting
lead to soon be flying.) Are they dressed in normal clothes, or in BDUs
and war paint?
Is law enforcement help available? If law enforcement evaporates at some
point in the future, even people living inside city limits may be in a comparable
situation.
There is an old saying: "When the only tool you have is a hammer, every
problem starts to look like a nail." Make the effort to acquire
non-lethal weapons. I'd hate to see a SurvivalBlog reader use excessive
force, just for lack of a less-than-lethal arrow in his quiver. Use them,
when possible, but again only if and when doing so won't endanger
yourself or your family.
Ironically, in many
cases
it
is easier
in
the US
to
acquire
lethal
ammo than
it is to buy non-lethal
ammo
and
items like CS
gas
grenades.
(Often,
although they are legal to possess in most jurisdictions,
because of company sales policies they can only be ordered
on law enforcement letterhead.) So finding what you need might take a bit
of looking and/or require the aid of sympathetic intermediaries. Two closing
proviso: Consult your state and local laws before ordering any weapons, be
they lethal, less-than-lethal, or non-lethal. None of the preceding should
be considered legal advise. Consult your local laws and, as appropriate,
seek qualified legal counsel.
« Letter Re: Propane Heat and PV Power Solutions for RVs and Trailers |Main| Note from JWR: »
The Four Gs Update: Have You Got God?, Groceries?, Guns?, Gold?
In the next few paragraphs I'll be tackling four issues that for many years,
I've labelled "The Four Gs." One of my contemporaries, Richard "Doc" Sweeny,
even made the concept into and acronym: GGGG,
for "God,
Gold, Guns, and Groceries."
God.
I consider faith in God the cornerstone of my family's preparedness. Faith in God's sovereign control of the future gives my family hope and peace in these troubled times. If there is no hope, then why prepare? Our hope is in Christ Jesus.
Groceries.
There are continuing reports of shortages around
the country of wheat flour, corn meal, rice, and cooking oil at some of the "big
box:" stores
such as COSTCO and
Sam's Club. This phenomenon is not uniform. Some readers tell me that
it is "business at usual" at their local stores, while others report "one
bag per customer" rationing signs have been posted, and a few report empty
shelves. With galloping wholesale prices and shortages at the wholesale level,
I expect these spot
shortages to continue.
I've had a half dozen anxious e-mails from readers in the past week, complaining
that their storage food orders have been delayed, that they can't get a
firm answer on delivery dates from the vendors, or that the vendors won't even
return their calls or e-mails. In nearly all of these instances, the
companies in question are not SurvivalBlog advertisers. I've
heard from several vendors that the big packing and canning outfits like Mountain
House and Alpen Aire are essentially sold out of stock on hand, and
that their order backlogs are at least 30 days, and growing. The problem is
that in "normal" times, these companies serve a "niche" clientele.
They just aren't scaled to handle the order volume when more than 1% or 2%
of the population places orders. I witnessed a similar situation back in 1999,
just before the Y2K rollover.
Some good news that I can mention is that several of our advertisers such as Ready
Made Resources actually still have some storage food on hand.
It is actually on the shelf ("in captivity") and ready to ship. For
any of their items that are back ordered, just be patient. You may
have to wait four to six weeks. The other good news I can offer is
that our advertisers all have good reputations. (If they didn't, then they
would not be allowed to advertise on SurvivalBlog.) The most reputable food
storage vendors will not bill your credit card until the day that your
order is actually shipped. Beware of small "fly by night" vendors
that don't keep any inventory on hand and that will bill your credit card weeks
ahead of when they know they can ship. If you buy from a vendor that is not a
SurvivalBlog advertiser, my advice is simple: pick your order up in person
only from
stock on hand, and pay cash on the spot. If you are taking delivery
personally, then there is no need to leave a paper trail. Buying with a credit
card is advised, in instances where immediate delivery is not promised.
In that case, your credit card's "charge back" buyer protection policy
could protect you if you are
defrauded. Keep in mind, however, that a charge back complaint often must be
made within 30 days of the time of purchase.
Guns.
The next presidential election is huge question mark:
Will the Democrats take the White House? And if they do, will another so-called "assault
weapons"
and "high capacity" magazine ban be legislated in the US? (Something
similar to the
1994-to-2004 Federal ban.) At present, these possibilities are
difficult to predict. But even if the "worst
case" (namely,
another ban with no sunset
clause) doesn't come to pass, I still consider battle rifles, full capacity
magazines, and ammunition to be good investments and excellent barter items.
If nothing else,
like other nonperishable tangibles, they are good hedges on the falling dollar.
Stock up, but do so quietly. If it is legal to do so in your jurisdiction,
make all your gun purchases from private parties with no paper trail. Keep
your eye on the local newspaper classified ads, as well as ads from sellers
in your own state on GunBroker.com (on-line
auctions) or GunsAmerica.com (fixed
price sales--usually more expensive) Search only for
sellers from your own state. That way, you won't run afoul of the Federal law
that prohibits
the transfer of
a modern
(post-1898)
gun
across state lines,
except
through a FFL dealer. It might also be worth your time
to drive long distances to some of the larger gun
shows in your own state. Once there,
you should of course buy guns only from private parties.
The upcoming Heller
v. US supreme court decision should be interesting. I suspect
that instead of striking down all Federal gun laws--which they rightfully
should--the supreme court justices will pen a decision that is tightly worded
and hence will only apply to just that one gun ban in the District of Columbia.
OBTW, for any of you that think that my advocacy of gun ownership and training
is somehow un-Christian, all that I can do is direct you to Christ's
words in Luke 22:36.
Gold.
I'm addressing gold last, for a reason. You've undoubtedly
seen the recent headlines like this one: Gold
at $1,000 on Weak Dollar, High Oil. Keep in mind that $1,000 is a psychological
barrier. This might trigger some profit taking that could push the spot price
of gold down as far as $920 per ounce. Take advantage of such dips. However,
don't get caught up in precious metals buying fever. Your key responsibility
is to provide
for your family, not to be a speculator. Don't even
think about investing any of your money in precious metals until after you
have all of your crucial "beans, bullets, and Band-Aids" preparations
well in hand. If you don't have an honest one year
food supply, then stop wasting your time hitting reload at the
Kitco web site! (You probably won't get the web page to load with any regularity
anyway. The recent spike in gold and silver prices have generated so much web
traffic that it has nearly crashed Kitco's server. You might have better luck
at
the Swiss
America web
site.)
Remember: You can't eat gold! There may come a day when you
need to barter for day-to-day essentials. In such times, barter goods
like common caliber ammunition or one-gallon cans of kerosene will be more
sought-after than gold. Recognize precious metals for what they are: storehouses
of wealth and hedges on the dollar. Think of them as a "time machine".
They can be trusted to preserve your wealth from one side of an economic collapse
to the other.But do not expect them to keep your family fed
in the midst of a socioeconomic collapse.
An afterthought: Perhaps I should add a fifth "G"", for Ground.
I have long been a proponent of buying productive farm land. The nationwide
market for real estate
is clearly in
a tailspin, and probably won't bottom for several more years. But I firmly
believe that the price declines will not be nearly as significant for good
farm ground.
Just be sure to be a wise buyer. Study local markets thoroughly (including soil
surveys), and don't feel rushed into making a purchase. In today's
market, time is on your side. I now recommend keeping a close eye on foreclosures,
using services like Foreclosures.com or RealtyTrac.com.
« Letter Re: Are Simultaneous Inflation and Deflation Possible? |Main| Note from JWR: »
Arm Thyself, by William Buppert
President Bush has embarked on the final phase of Pax Americana and is ushering
in an advanced imperial stage that will endanger every living American. The
coming election will assure us that every American will have his Second Amendment
rights infringed or predated upon in some fashion no matter which party succeeds
(is there a difference except the spelling?). Perennial readers of this site
are better versed than most in the predatory nature of the state and its ability
to target and vilify those it wishes to eliminate eventually whether through
political neutralization such as Trent Lott or lethal means such as Waco or
Ruby Ridge. I'd like to focus this essay on the practical application of what
Boston T. Party refers to as "liberty's teeth" or small arms. There
are plenty of organizations like Jews
for the Preservation of Firearms Ownership (JPFO) and Gun Owners of America
(GOA) which will provide you with all the intellectual
ammunition you need to know why you should be armed; I want to tell you how.
I want to offer a bare-bones primer on how to get started in amassing your
personal armory (contrary to what the government says, an arsenal is where
weapons are manufactured) and using the weapons you obtain. I have a military
background that spans two decades, shoot competitively and currently instruct
tactical firearms so I have left the armchair a few times.
There are plenty of sites from which you can obtain this information but I
wanted to provide a fairly painless gateway to get started if you are beginning
from ground zero. The black helicopter crowds are chockfull of hunker-down
survivalist information which for the most part suffers from their barely hidden
desire for the apocalypse to occur coupled with their propensity to be armchair
enthusiasts unfettered by real world application of firepower. On the other
end of the spectrum, you have the nation's largest gun prohibition organization,
the National Rifle Association, selling plenty of safety-oriented gun practices
(while winking lustfully at the Beltway media and other hoplophobes) and ignoring
any martial aspects of weapons or gun handling the Founders wrote the Second
Amendment for in the first place.
1. Establish a mindset much like the Flinters in F.
Paul Wilson's novels. Fully
embrace the initiated
non-aggression principle. This is not a call for armed
revolt or insurrection. This is summed up as leave me alone or else. Whether
you own weapons now or not, you should be fully decided that when, not if,
the government comes around to seize them you will relinquish them one round
at a time. Or you have had the foresight to properly cache spares and you can
hand over that Lee Harvey Oswald Carcano to the nice young men in black ninja
suits who are from the government and just want to help you. If you have any
doubt about that, stop reading this and take any weapons you now own and donate
them to a paleo-conservative or libertarian who cares. You may continue reading
if liberty means more than lip service. The right to self-defense should be
beyond question to this audience.
2. If you bought one book on the subject, buy Boston T. Party's book, "Boston's
Gun Bible" (revised April 2002). Hey, we're on LRC,
you always want a book on the subject. As a matter of fact, this logical and
sound compendium of gun
stuff is worth a whole shelf of gun tomes. Read it two or three times and always
have a highlighter in hand. He's done all the work for you. You just have to
read and heed. It has had a perennial place on my nightstand since I bought
it. While those new to the gun community will be amazed at the pedantic disagreements
that enliven every corner of the gun culture from ballistics to weapons choice,
enquiring minds will really be energized by the level of intellectual ferment
once you get the gun habit. If one only read the New York Times or the Los
Angeles Times, you'd think all gun owners were backward hillbillies who only
Jim Goad could
love. Like so many American subcultures, there is a niche for every need or
desire. For instance, I disagree with his number-one choice for a battle rifle
(M1A versus FN-FAL) but that is the nature of the enterprise.
3. Write this on your whiteboard one hundred times: I will never, ever buy
a weapon from a Federal Firearms Dealer (FFL).
I will only make private party purchases through gun shows, the classifieds
or through friends and neighbors.
The Feral (no misspelling) government has developed a devilishly clever system
using the BATF as
their stalking horse to enable a de facto and de
jure gun
registration system established at the central government level every time
a weapon is purchased at a brick and mortar gun shop. Check your risk tolerance
and local and state laws to determine the regulations regarding private sales
but the litmus test is easy. If you see guns for sale in your local newspaper
classifieds, it is under the government radar (for now). Recent events such
as the spate of college campus shootings and the attempts by local and state
governments to regulate and suppress every manner of arms employment and provisioning
should convince you that time is short. The same applies to ammunition; buy
it at a gun show for cash as there is no requirement for a permit (yet) in
most states. I hope you are fortunate enough to live in a state unlike Illinois
or some of the Borg states in the northeastern part of these united States.
When buying these weapons through private sales, always be prepared to walk
away if it smells funny. Never buy any weapon that even appears to be fully
automatic or is hinted to be. The Class
3 licensing system in the US regulates
these firearms in a very draconian fashion under the auspices of the 1934 National
Firearms Act. The government has a history of entrapment and provocation. Ask
Randy Weaver if a half-inch on a ruler is hazardous to your health or that
of your family.
4. I could write a book on what to buy but that is beyond the scope of this
essay. Armed conflict is a discipline of distance. Different firearms have
envelopes of lethality as distance is increased which is also a factor in accuracy.
To paraphrase Boston, a pistol is what you fight your way to your rifle with.
Spare no expense since your life depends on these tools. At minimum you need
a rifle and pistol for every member of your family. The Glock pistol
is the hands-down winner for accuracy and reliability. As to rifles, if you
are poorer
than dirt, scrape up $100 and buy a Lee-Enfield .303 rifle. These bolt actions
are highly serviceable for social work. If you have more money, invest the
hundreds and thousands it will take to get a proper battle rifle such as an
FN-FAL, M1A or HK91 and
all the equipment and ammunition to accompany each rifle for its care and feeding.
Be sure to have a minimum of 25 magazines per
rifle and ten per pistol. From this point, once you have started to empty your
wallet, more equipment will start to appeal to you such as load-bearing gear,
body armor and all manner of shooting accouterment. The sky is the limit (and
your income).
5. Pay for the very best firearms training you can afford; a single digit percentage
of the gun culture pays for professional training and this is the greatest
shortcoming you can have. No matter how American the concept of having the
most elaborate toys, if you can't employ them, then their value is moot. Go
to Google or Metacrawler, type in firearms training in your state and see who
offers it locally or go to the nationally renowned training centers like Gunsite,
Thunder Ranch or Firearms Academy of Seattle (my personal favorite for value
and quality). Take your spouse, too. She is your primary team-member.
6. Teach your children well. The gun culture has roots as far back as the first
settlers in North America. This continuity is a result of parents passing on
their knowledge and weapons to their progeny to continue down the line. Exposure
to guns early enough can make liberty contagious.
Remember, guns don’t kill people, governments and the criminals they
create do. - William Buppert, February 18, 2008
« Letter Re: SurvivalBlog Has the Edge in Reporting Some News Stories |Main| The Big Picture -- Grid Up Versus Grid Down--Oil, Soil, and Water »
Letter Re: Keeping a Low Profile is Crucial for Preparedness
James,
I have to disagree with some of C.D.'s measures listed in his letter (i.e.
using Scroogle
and Zone
Alarm) and refer your readership to the best article I've yet seen
on
the great difficulty in online anonymity: The
Ugly Truth About Online Anonymity Also note comment on the linked article
12 - even if all else could be secured, the moment you behave according to
your established surfing profile, you'll
be spotted. Kind Regards, - J. in Kyrgyzstan
JWR Replies: I have my own perspective about online activities:
Do the best that you can to cover your cyber trail, but don't get so paranoid
that
you withdraw to hide under a rock. In the context of political action,
the
day that
you go off-line for the sake of privacy or anonymity, then your political opponents
have won. In the context of physical preparedness,
if you go off-line for the sake of privacy or anonymity, then you have isolated
yourself from any like-minded potential allies. It is impossible to build a
survival network without taking some risks. And if you are adverse to taking
any risks,
then you
are relegating yourself to a "team" with just one member.
A solitary individual is ineffective and vulnerable.
One individual that I greatly admire
recently castigated me in an e-mail for having posted F.L. in Southern California's
letter titled: "Keeping a Low Profile is Crucial for Preparedness".
I think that his criticism went a bit too far. My position is that everyone
should
strike a balance between
maintaining privacy and blatant visibility. There is an old Japanese proverb:
"The nail that sticks up get hammered
down." I believe that there is value in employing what David in Israel
refers to as The Gray Man approach. (Blending in with your neighbors, to
be unremarkable
and unmemorable.) But the other end of the spectrum is being so vocal, and
so visible that you
end
up
being
the
#1 on
the most
wanted
list.
Each individual should consciously set their own parameters, based on their
personal circumstances, prayer life, and their comfort zone.
Regardless of where you place yourself on
the continuum of visibility, never, ever, give up your guns.
That is an inviolable and absolute line in the sand. Without an effective
means of self
defense and the common defense,
a man
is just another
sheep for the slaughter.
« Letter Re: Best Items to Store for Barter and Charity? |Main| Note from JWR: »
From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Start With a "List of Lists"
Start your retreat stocking effort by first composing a List of Lists, then
draft prioritized lists for each subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or
in a spreadsheet if you are a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out
a hard copy for use when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor
your lists to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density
as well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a retreat
in a coastal area is likely to have a far different list than someone living
in the Rockies.
As I often mention in my lectures and radio interviews, a great way to create
truly commonsense preparedness lists is to take a three-day weekend TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” with your family. When you come home from work on
Friday evening, turn off your main circuit breaker, turn off your gas main
(or propane tank), and shut your main water valve (or turn off your well pump.)
Spend that weekend in primitive conditions. Practice using only your storage
food, preparing it on a wood stove (or camping stove.)
A “TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” will surprise you. Things that
you take for granted will suddenly become labor intensive. False assumptions
will be shattered. Your family will grow closer and more confident. Most importantly,
some of the most thorough lists that you will ever make will be those written
by candlelight.
Your List of Lists should include: (Sorry that this post
is in outline form, but it would take a full length book to discus all of
the following in great detail)
Water List
Food Storage List
Food Preparation List
Personal List
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
Nuke Defense List
Biological Warfare Defense List
Gardening List
Hygiene List/Sanitation List
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
Fuels List
Firefighting List
Tactical Living List
Security-General
Security-Firearms
Communications/Monitoring List
Tools List
Sundries List
Survival Bookshelf List
Barter and Charity List
JWR’s Specific Recommendations For Developing Your Lists:
Water List
House downspout conversion sheet metal work and barrels. (BTW, this is another
good reason to upgrade your retreat to a fireproof metal roof.)
Drawing water from open sources. Buy extra containers. Don’t buy big
barrels, since five gallon food grade buckets are the largest size that most
people can handle without back strain.
For transporting water if and when gas is too precious to waste, buy a couple
of heavy duty two wheel garden carts--convert the wheels to foam filled "no
flats" tires. (BTW, you will find lots of other uses for those carts around
your retreat, such as hauling hay, firewood, manure, fertilizer, et cetera.)
Treating water. Buy plain Clorox hypochlorite bleach. A little goes a long
way. Buy some extra half-gallon bottles for barter and charity. If you can
afford it, buy a “Big Berky” British Berkefeld ceramic water filter.
(Available from Ready
Made Resources and several other Internet vendors. Even if you have pure
spring water at your retreat, you never know where you may end up, and a good
filter could be a lifesaver.)
Food Storage List
See my post tomorrow which will be devoted to food storage. Also see the recent
letter from David in Israel on this subject.
Food Preparation List
Having more people under your roof will necessitate having an oversize skillet
and a huge stew pot. BTW, you will want to buy several huge kettles, because
odds are you will have to heat water on your wood stove for bathing, dish washing,
and clothes washing. You will also need even more kettles, barrels, and 5 or
6 gallon PVC buckets--for water hauling, rendering, soap making, and dying.
They will also make great barter or charity items. (To quote my mentor Dr.
Gary North: “Nails: buy a barrel of them. Barrels: Buy a barrel of them!”)
Don’t overlook skinning knives, gut-buckets, gambrels, and meat saws.
Personal List
(Make a separate personal list for each family member and individual expected
to arrive at your retreat.)
Spare glasses.
Prescription and nonprescription medications.
Birth control.
Keep dentistry up to date.
Any elective surgery that you've been postponing
Work off that gut.
Stay in shape.
Back strength and health—particularly important, given the heavy manual
tasks required for self-sufficiency.
Educate yourself on survival topics, and practice them. For example, even if
you don’t presently live at your retreat, you should plant a vegetable
garden every year. It is better to learn through experience and make mistakes
now, when the loss of crop is an annoyance rather than a crucial event.
“Comfort” items to help get through high stress times. (Books, games,
CDs, chocolates, etc.)
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
When tailoring this list, consider your neighborhood going for many months
without power, extensive use of open flames, and sentries standing picket
shifts exposed in the elements. Then consider axes, chainsaws and tractors
being wielded by newbies, and a greater likelihood of gunshot wounds. With
all of this, add the possibility of no access to doctors or high tech medical
diagnostic equipment. Put a strong emphasis on burn treatment first aid supplies.
Don’t overlook do-it-yourself dentistry! (Oil of cloves, temporary
filling kit, extraction tools, et cetera.) Buy a full minor surgery outfit
(inexpensive Pakistani stainless steel instruments), even if you don’t
know how to use them all yet. You may have to learn, or you will have the
opportunity to put them in the hands of someone experienced who needs them.)
This is going to be a big list!
Chem/Nuke Defense List
Dosimeter and rate meter, and charger, radiac meter (hand held Geiger counter),
rolls of sheet plastic (for isolating airflow to air filter inlets and for
covering window frames in the event that windows are broken due to blast effects),
duct tape, HEPA filters (ands spares) for your shelter. Potassium iodate (KI)
tablets to prevent thyroid damage.(See my recent post on that subject.) Outdoor
shower rig for just outside your shelter entrance.
Biological Warfare Defense List
Disinfectants
Hand Sanitizer
Sneeze masks
Colloidal silver generator and spare supplies (distilled water and .999 fine
silver rod.)
Natural antibiotics (Echinacea, Tea Tree oil, …)
Gardening List
One important item for your gardening list is the construction of a very tall
deer-proof and rabbit-proof fence. Under current circumstances, a raid by deer
on your garden is probably just an inconvenience. After the balloon goes up,
it could mean the difference between eating well, and starvation.
Top Soil/Amendments/Fertilizers.
Tools+ spares for barter/charity
Long-term storage non hybrid (open pollinated) seed. (Non-hybrid “heirloom” seed
assortments tailors to different climate zones are available from The
Ark Institute
Herbs: Get started with medicinal herbs such as aloe vera (for burns), echinacea
(purple cone flower), valerian, et cetera.
Hygiene/Sanitation List
Sacks of powdered lime for the outhouse. Buy plenty!
TP in quantity (Stores well if kept dry and away from vermin and it is lightweight,
but it is very bulky. This is a good item to store in the attic. See my novel
about stocking up on used phone books for use as TP.
Soap in quantity (hand soap, dish soap, laundry soap, cleansers, etc.)
Bottled lye for soap making.
Ladies’ supplies.
Toothpaste (or powder).
Floss.
Fluoride rinse. (Unless you have health objections to the use of fluoride.)
Sunscreen.
Livestock List:
Hoof rasp, hoof nippers, hoof pick, horse brushes, hand sheep shears, styptic,
carding combs, goat milking stand, teat dip, udder wash, Bag Balm, elastrator
and bands, SWOT fly repellent, nail clippers (various sizes), Copper-tox, leads,
leashes, collars, halters, hay hooks, hay fork, manure shovel, feed buckets,
bulk grain and C-O-B sweet feed (store in galvanized trash cans with tight
fitting lids to keep the mice out), various tack and saddles, tack repair tools,
et cetera. If your region has selenium deficient soil (ask your local Agricultural
extension office) then be sure to get selenium-fortified salt blocks rather
than plain white salt blocks--at least for those that you are going to set
aside strictly for your livestock.
Hunting/Fishing/Trapping List
“Buckshot” Bruce Hemming has produced an excellent series of videos
on trapping and making improvised traps. (He also sells traps and scents at very
reasonable prices.)
Night vision gear, spares, maintenance, and battery charging
Salt. Post-TEOTWAWKI, don’t “go hunting.” That would be a
waste of effort. Have the game come to you. Buy 20 or more salt blocks. They
will also make very valuable barter items.
Sell your fly fishing gear (all but perhaps a few flies) and buy practical
spin casting equipment.
Extra tackle may be useful for barter, but probably only in a very long term
Crunch.
Buy some frog gigs if you have bullfrogs in your area. Buy some crawfish traps
if you have crawfish in your area.
Learn how to rig trot lines and make fish traps for non-labor intensive fishing WTSHTF.
Power/Lighting/Batteries List
One proviso: In the event of a “grid
down” situation, if you are the only family in the area with power,
it could turn your house into a “come loot me” beacon at night.
At the same time, your house lighting will ruin the night vision of your LP/OP pickets.
Make plans and buy materials in advance for making blackout screens or fully
opaque curtains for your windows.
When possible, buy nickel metal hydride batteries. (Unlike the older nickel
cadmium technology, these have no adverse charge level “memory” effect.)
If your home has propane appliances, get a “tri-fuel” generator--with
a carburetor that is selectable between gasoline, propane, and natural gas.
If you heat your home with home heating oil, then get a diesel-burning generator.
(And plan on getting at least one diesel burning pickup and/or tractor). In
a pinch, you can run your diesel generator and diesel vehicles on home heating
oil.
Kerosene lamps; plenty of extra wicks, mantles, and chimneys. (These will also
make great barter items.)
Greater detail on do-it-yourself power will be included in my forthcoming blog
posts.
Fuels List
Buy the biggest propane, home heating oil, gas, or diesel tanks that your local
ordinances permit and that you can afford. Always keep them at least two-thirds
full. For privacy concerns, ballistic impact concerns, and fire concerns,
underground tanks are best if you local water table allows it. In any case,
do not buy an aboveground fuel tank that would visible from any public road
or navigable waterway. Buy plenty of extra fuel for barter. Don’t overlook
buying plenty of kerosene. (For barter, you will want some in one or two
gallon cans.) Stock up on firewood or coal. (See my previous blog posts.)
Get the best quality chainsaw you can afford. I prefer Stihls and Husqavarnas.
If you can afford it, buy two of the same model. Buy extra chains, critical
spare parts, and plenty of two-cycle oil. (Two-cycle oil will be great for
barter!) Get a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps. They are expensive but
they might save yourself a trip to the emergency room. Always wear gloves,
goggles, and ear-muffs. Wear a logger’s helmet when felling. Have someone
who is well experienced teach you how to re-sharpen chains. BTW, don’t
cut up your wood into rounds near any rocks or you will destroy a chain in
a hurry.
Firefighting List
Now that you have all of those flammables on hand (see the previous list) and
the prospect of looters shooting tracer ammo or throwing Molotov cocktails
at your house, think in terms of fire fighting from start to finish without
the aid of a fire department. Even without looters to consider, you should
be ready for uncontrolled brush or residential fires, as well as the greater
fire risk associated with greenhorns who have just arrived at your retreat
working with wood stoves and kerosene lamps!
Upgrade your retreat with a fireproof metal roof.
2” water line from your gravity-fed storage tank (to provide large water
volume for firefighting)
Fire fighting rig with an adjustable stream/mist head.
Smoke and CO detectors.
Tactical Living List
Adjust your wardrobe buying toward sturdy earth-tone clothing. (Frequent your
local thrift store and buy extras for retreat newcomers, charity, and barter.)
Dyes. Stock up on some boxes of green and brown cloth dye. Buy some extra for
barter. With dye, you can turn most light colored clothes into semi-tactical
clothing on short notice.
Two-inch wide burlap strip material in green and brown. This burlap is available
in large spools from Gun Parts Corp. Even if you don’t have time now,
stock up so that you can make camouflage ghillie
suits post-TEOTWAWKI.
Save those wine corks! (Burned cork makes quick and cheap face camouflage.)
Cold weather and foul weather gear—buy plenty, since you will be doing
more outdoor chores, hunting, and standing guard duty.
Don’t overlook ponchos and gaiters.
Mosquito repellent.
Synthetic double-bag (modular) sleeping bags for each person at the retreat,
plus a couple of spares. The Wiggy’s
brand Flexible Temperature Range Sleep System (FTRSS)
made by Wiggy's of Grand Junction, Colorado is highly recommended.
Night vision gear + IR floodlights for your retreat house
Subdued flashlights and penlights.
Noise, light, and litter discipline. (More on this in future posts--or perhaps
a reader would like to send a brief article on this subject)
Security-General: Locks, intrusion detection/alarm systems, exterior obstacles
(fences, gates, 5/8” diameter (or larger) locking road cables, rosebush
plantings, “decorative” ponds (moats), ballistic protection (personal
and residential), anti-vehicular ditches/berms, anti-vehicular concrete “planter
boxes”, razor wire, etc.)
Starlight electronic light amplification scopes are critical tools for retreat
security.
A Starlight scope (or goggles, or a monocular) literally amplifies low ambient
light by up to 100,000 times, turning nighttime darkness into daylight--albeit
a green and fuzzy view. Starlight light amplification technology was first
developed during the Vietnam War. Late issue Third Generation (also called
or “Third Gen” or “Gen 3”) starlight scopes can cost
up to $3,500 each. Rebuilt first gen (early 1970s technology scopes can often
be had for as little as $500. Russian-made monoculars (with lousy optics) can
be had for under $100. One Russian model that uses a piezoelectric generator
instead of batteries is the best of this low-cost breed. These are best used
as backups (in case your expensive American made scopes fail. They should not
be purchased for use as your primary night vision devices unless you are on
a very restrictive budget. (They are better than nothing.) Buy the best starlight
scopes, goggles, and monoculars you can afford. They may be life-savers! If
you can afford to buy only one, make it a weapon sight such as an AN/PVS-4,
with a Gen 2 (or better) tube. Make sure to specify that that the tube is new
or “low hours”, has a high “line pair” count, and minimal
scintillation. It is important to buy your Starlight gear from a reputable
dealer. The market is crowded with rip-off artists and scammers. One dealer
that I trust, is Al Glanze (spoken “Glan-zee”) who runs STANO
Components, Inc. in Silver City, Nevada. Note: In a subsequent
blog posts I will discuss the relationship and implications to IR illuminators
and tritium sights.
Range cards and sector sketches.
If you live in the boonies, piece together nine of the USGS 15-minute maps,
with your retreat property on the center map. Mount that map on an oversize
map board. Draw in the property lines and owner names of all of your surrounding
neighbor’s parcels (in pencil) in at least a five mile radius. (Get boundary
line and current owner name info from your County Recorder’s office.)
Study and memorize both the terrain and the neighbors’ names. Make a
phone number/e-mail list that corresponds to all of the names marked on the
map, plus city and county office contact numbers for quick reference and tack
it up right next to the map board. Cover the whole map sheet with a sheet of
heavy-duty acetate, so you can mark it up just like a military commander’s
map board. (This may sound a bit “over the top”, but remember,
you are planning for the worst case. It will also help you get to know your
neighbors: When you are introduced by name to one of them when in town, you
will be able to say, “Oh, don’t you live about two miles up the
road between the Jones place and the Smith’s ranch?” They will
be impressed, and you will seem like an instant “old timer.”
Security-Firearms List
Guns, ammunition, web gear, eye and ear protection, cleaning equipment,
carrying cases, scopes, magazines, spare parts, gunsmithing tools, targets
and target
frames, et cetera. Each rifle and pistol should have at least six top quality
(original military contract or original manufacturer) full capacity spare magazines.
Note: Considerable detail on firearms and optics selection, training, use,
and logistic support are covered in the SurvivalBlog archives and FAQs.
Communications/Monitoring List
When selecting radios buy only models that will run on 12 volt DC power or
rechargeable nickel metal hydride battery packs (that can be recharged from
your retreat’s 12 VDC power system without having to use an inverter.)
As a secondary purchasing goal, buy spare radios of each type if you can afford
them. Keep your spares in sealed metal boxes to protect them from EMP.
If you live in a far inland region, I recommend buying two or more 12 VDC marine
band radios. These frequencies will probably not be monitored in your region,
leaving you an essentially private band to use. (But never assume that any
two-way radio communications are secure!)
Note: More detail on survival communications gear selection, training, use,
security/cryptography measures, antennas, EMP protection, and logistical support
will be covered in forthcoming blog posts.
Tools List
Gardening tools.
Auto mechanics tools.
Welding.
Bolt cutters--the indispensable “universal key.”
Woodworking tools.
Gunsmithing tools.
Emphasis on hand powered tools.
Hand or treadle powered grinding wheel.
Don’t forget to buy plenty of extra work gloves (in earth tone colors).
Sundries List:
Systematically list the things that you use on a regular basis, or that you
might need if the local hardware store were to ever disappear: wire of various
gauges, duct tape, reinforced strapping tape, chain, nails, nuts and bolts,
weather stripping, abrasives, twine, white glue, cyanoacrylate glue, et cetera.
Book/Reference List
You should probably have nearly every book on my Bookshelf
page. For some, you will want to have two or three copies, such as Carla
Emery’s "Encyclopedia of Country Living". This is because these books
are so valuable and indispensable that you won’t want to risk lending
out your only copy.
Barter and Charity List
For your barter list, acquire primarily items that are durable, non-perishable,
and either in small packages or that are easily divisible. Concentrate on
the items that other people are likely to overlook or have in short supply.
Some of my favorites are ammunition. [The late] Jeff Cooper referred to it
as “ballistic
wampum.” WTSHTF, ammo will be worth nearly its weight in silver.
Store all of your ammo in military surplus ammo cans (with seals that are
still soft) and it will store for decades. Stick to common calibers, get
plenty of .22 LR (most
high velocity hollow points) plus at least ten boxes of the local favorite
deer hunting cartridge, even if you don’t own
a rifle chambered for this cartridge. (Ask your local sporting goods shop
about their top selling chamberings). Also buy at least ten boxes of the
local police department’s standard pistol cartridge, again even if
you don’t own a pistol chambered for this cartridge.
Ladies supplies.
Salt (Buy lots of cattle blocks and 1 pound canisters of iodized table salt.)
(Stores indefinitely if kept dry.)
Two cycle engine oil (for chain saw gas mixing. Gas may still be available
after a collapse, but two-cycle oil will probably be like liquid gold!)
Gas stabilizer.
Diesel antibacterial additive.
50-pound sacks of lime (for outhouses).
1 oz. bottles of military rifle bore cleaner and Break Free (or similar) lubricant.
Waterproof dufflebags in earth tone colors (whitewater rafting "dry bags").
Thermal socks.
Semi-waterproof matches (from military rations.)
Military web gear (lots of folks will suddenly need pistol belts, holsters,
magazine pouches, et cetera.)
Pre-1965 silver dimes.
1-gallon cans of kerosene.
Rolls of olive drab parachute cord.
Rolls of olive-drab duct tape.
Spools of monofilament fishing line.
Rolls of 10 mil "Visqueen", sheet plastic (for replacing windows,
isolating airspaces for nuke scenarios, etc.)
I also respect the opinion of one gentleman with whom I've corresponded, who
recommended the following:
Strike anywhere matches. (Dip the heads in paraffin to make them waterproof.)
Playing cards.
Cooking spices. (Do a web search for reasonably priced bulk spices.)
Rope & string.
Sewing supplies.
Candle wax and wicking.
Lastly, any supplies necessary for operating a home-based business. Some that
you might consider are: leather crafting, small appliance repair, gun repair,
locksmithing, et cetera. Every family should have at least one home-based business
(preferably two!) that they can depend on in the event of an economic collapse.
Stock up on additional items to dispense to refugees as charity.
Note: See the Barter Faire chapter in my novel "Patriots" for
lengthy lists of potential barter items.
« Weekly Survival Real Estate Market Update |Main| Letter Re: Does Future Inflation Justify a Higher Level of Indebtedness? »
Letter Re: How Much Ammunition to Store?
Mr. Rawles:
My wife and I enjoy your web site immensely. I do have one question for you.
I know we are targeting how much food/water supply we need for long-term
survive but how much ammo do
you think the average family should strive to purchase/store? Thanks, - David
K./p>
JWR Replies:
It is important to maintain balance in your preparations. Food storage, first
aid supplies, and heirloom seed storage should be priorities. But after those
have been taken acre of, it makes sense to stock up on ammunition. As long
as you store your ammo in sealed military surplus cans, there is no risk
in over-estimating your needs, since ammunition has a 50+ year storage life
if protected from oil vapors and humidity. Consider any extra ammo the
ideal barter item. The late Col. Jeff Cooper rightly called it "ballistic
wampum."
For your barter inventory, I recommend that you stick to the most common calibers:
For rifles: .22 Long Rifle, .223, .308, .30-06 (and in the British Commonwealth,
.303 British.) For handguns: 9mm, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP. For shotguns, 12
gauge and 20 gauge. As
I've previously mentioned, you might also buy a small quantity of the "regional
favorite" deer cartridge for your area, as well as your local police or
sheriff's department standard calibers. (Ask at you local gun shop.)
I consider the following figures minimums:
2,000 per battle rifle
500 per hunting rifle
800 per primary handgun
2,000 per .22 rimfire
500 per riotgun
If you can afford it, three times those figures would meet
the "comfort level" of most survivalists. In an age of inflation,
consider that supply better than money in the bank.
Ammo prices have recently been galloping, so do some comparison pricing
before you buy. Bring photocopies and "print screen" print-outs
with you when you shop, as bargaining tools. Typically, the larger gun shows
each have several large ammunition vendors.
Some Internet ammunition vendors that I recommend are: AIM
Surplus, Cheaper
Than Dirt, Dan's
Ammo, J&G Sales, Midway, AmmoMan.com, Natchez
Shooter Supply, and The
Sportsman's Guide. Both to save money and to maximize your privacy--since
umpteen heavy crates being unloaded from the back of a UPS truck
is pretty obvious--I recommend that you be willing to drive a distance take
delivery in person from a regional vendor. Ammo is best bought by the 3/4
ton pickup load! Also, keep in mind that by buying in large quantities all
at once from a big vendor, you will typically get ammo for each caliber all
from the same lots, which will result in more consistent accuracy.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Retreat Group Recruiting and Organization »
Letter Re: How to Win with Asymmetric Warfare, by Robert R.
Hi JWR.
I read the responses to my article and wanted to write a reply that addresses Pathfinder's comments, which in a nutshell said my examples with [registered]
suppressors [for firearms] and night vision were dangerous and would give
the wrong idea about being a "survivalist".
Pathfinder, I appreciate your worry that some people may have an over active
imagination and end up doing some bad things given the ideas for possible tactics
to use in an absolute worst case scenario, or that these tactics may scare
off people who are just learning about survivalist information and browsing
the site. However, as you said yourself, "we do not know how severe, how
long, how dangerous, or how chaotic the theoretical "hard times" can
or even will be! I feel the need to prepare, but I pray that I never need to
use it."
You are totally correct. that "We do not know how severe, how long, how
dangerous, or how chaotic" things will be. For all we know, a terrorist
nuke could go off in Los Angeles tomorrow morning, crash the world economy,
have complete
breakdown of law and order, martial law, and implementation of numerous executive
orders (that are already on the books) that would turn the United States into
something worse than Nazi Germany within a month. So since I don't know the
future and
what it may bring, what harm could it be to allow my imagination to consider
the absolute worst possible scenarios and what I would need to do to survive
them? Night vision and suppressors have excellent non-combative uses. It is
nice to star gaze with night vision, and having suppressors lets me shoot without
hearing protection on.
But if things ever really go south, I can use those things and all the clever
tricks I can think of, to defeat my enemies and be a shining example of what
one free American can do without the aid of a Nanny government. The greatest
strength is in you, the individual citizen. With our freedoms we can arm ourselves,
train ourselves, and protect ourselves and our neighbors during times of crisis.
That is what America is supposed to be about, safeguarding the inherent rights
and freedoms of the individual human being to allow for the greatest growth
and strength of each individual. I choose to exercise my right to bear arms,
of all kinds, and am proficient in their use. And should danger of any kind
ever arise to threaten myself, family, friends, community, or country, then
that danger will be met by what is the single best answer to all dangers--a
prepared American citizen. - Robert R
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Letter Re: Getting Yourself--and Your Rifle--Fitted for Body Armor
Dear Jim:
Boston T. Party backs up your opinion on the value of Body Armor - to quote: “...
An order of magnitude advantage” ("Boston on Surviving Y2K and
Other Lovely Disasters").
you posted a good letter from Ryan that mentioned adjusting your buttstock
length to account for Body Armor, web gear, etc. The main point to test all
your gear - all at the same time - is a real nugget of wisdom. It's amazing
the glitches that pop up that you can never foresee until you test.
One thing to note - 2" is probably a little too much compensation in buttstock
length unless you have very thick clothing and web gear as well. Ultra-light
Polyethylene Rifle Plates are just under an inch thick (~2.5 cm.) but the most
protective Level IV Ceramic Rifle Plates are only 0.75" (~2 cm). So an
inch of adjustment with web gear is probably a good estimate.
We offer both Ultra-light Polyethylene and Ceramic Rifle Plates with a "shooters
cut" on the Front plate. So, with this taper at the top of the plate,
you can get a buttstock plant directly onto your body (or soft armor). See this
photo page. So you would have just 0.25" (~6mm) of soft Body Armor
under the buttstock with "shooters cut" plates.
Yours Truly, - Nick - Manager, BulletProofME.com Body
Armor
JWR Adds: My approach at compensating for the thickness of
body armor and/or heavy winter clothing is as follows: Size your buttstock
with assumption that it will be used in
conjunction with body armor or heavy winter clothing. Then, in instances where
you are shooting in casual circumstances without body armor (or in warm weather),
simply add a slip-on
recoil pad to make up for the difference in stock length. That pad can
be removed in seconds, if circumstances change.
For any readers with HK91s
or CETMEs
(or clones thereof), I recommend that you buy a couple of inexpensive spare
military surplus G3 stock sets s from Cheaper
Than Dirt. They currently have G3 stock sets on sale for under
$10, complete with a pair of handguards and a pistol grip! (See item # MGR-281 in their latest catalog.) With a
price like that, you can afford to buy several stock sets and get
creative. Do some WECSOG experiments
with a hacksaw, two-part epoxy, and various recoil pads--while of course saving
your original stock in its original configuration. OBTW, I am not a
fan of the G3 "A3" collapsing stock, since it has a buttpad that
is uncomfortably small and curved, and its stock rails do not provide a consistent cheek
weld. An A3 stock might be useful in confined spaces (such as defending
a vehicle), but otherwise, I do not recommend them.
For any readers with M1As,
I recommend that you buy a few inexpensive spare stocks from Fred's
M14 Stocks--they have thousands of M14 stocks
in inventory--and shorten them as needed, adding recoil pads in the process.
OBTW, I am particularly fond of the Pachmayr "Decelerator" recoil
pad. One of your spare stocks should be cut extra short, to accommodate
any small-statured shooters at your retreat. Just keep in mind that when you
switch stocks on an M1A or M14 that it may have to be re-zeroed. Test your
rifle's accuracy with each of your spare stocks well in advance of Schumeresque times.
For any readers with AR-15s
or AR-10s,
I recommend that you buy a complete spare collapsing (CAR-15/M4 Carbine
style) buttstock assembly. You should preferably one that has three or four
adjusting "position" notches. For fine-tuning the length of pull,
someone skilled with a drill press can add additional adjustment notches.
We use L1A1s
here at the ranch, three of which are equipped with extra short length-of-pull "Arctic" Maranyl
stocks. These stocks were used extensively by the British Army in Northern
Ireland in the 1970s, where they wore body armor for foot patrols in inimical
places like Ulster and Belfast. Thankfully, L1A1 buttstocks have hard plastic
pads that come in several lengths, although changing them is a bit time consuming,
since the recoil spring nut must be removed. Arctic length Maranyl stocks can
occasionally be found on eBay. Unfortunately, metric FALs--at
least "as issued"--do not have as much stock length flexibility as
L1A1s. However, as with an HK91, you can buy a couple spare stocks and do some
WECSOG experimenting. The limitation, however, is the protruding recoil spring
tube.
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Snap Shooting Skills, By Robert R.
Snap shooting is something I learned a few years ago that can make one well
trained, aggressive shooter, able to defeat many lesser-trained opponents.
The idea of snap shooting is to present as small a target as possible while
quickly peeking out and delivering accurate fire, and then returning to your
cover.
In the movies you always see the bad guy will put his back against a corner,
using it for cover. He then turns the corner, exposing his entire body, raises
his weapon to take aim, and is promptly shot dead by the good guy. Snap shooting
aims to correct all the mistakes of this very poor example of how to exchange
gunfire with someone who aims to shoot you.
When someone is shooting at you, you obviously want to expose as little of
yourself as possible, for as short a duration as possible, to minimize the
chance of being hit. At the same time, you have to deliver accurate fire when
you do expose yourself to make the risk worth something.
The first thing to know about snap shooting is how to properly use cover. Ideally
you will have some decent cover to use (something that can stop incoming rounds
and provide concealment) In our movie example, the bad guy puts his back up
against the corner and then turns the corner and exposes his entire body to
make his shot. In doing this, he has limited his visibility of what is going
on, by facing away from the target, and as he presents himself, does so in
a way that maximizes the enemy's likelihood of hitting him. At the same time,
because his weapon is not raised, he must expose himself for a longer period
of time to aim his weapon and fire.
Stand, or crouch behind your cover, facing towards the enemy. You want to put
yourself far enough off your cover so that you can pre-aim your weapon, and
also be mobile enough to quickly move to other pieces of cover, or move to
flank and continue engaging your target. Raise your weapon and get proper sight
alignment towards where you believe your enemy to be. This will save you the
time of doing later outside of cover.
Now that you have your weapon raised and ready to fire, quickly peek out with
only your barrel and eyes, putting your weight on your right
foot (left foot if peeking from the left side of cover) and bending at the
torso. Only expose
what is absolutely necessary to get an accurate shot off. Fire as many shots
as you feel you can safely and accurately, and then return to your previous
position behind cover. (This should just mean bending back to cover from the
torso.)
In the space of a second you can peek out, exposing only your barrel and eyes,
shoot off a couple of well placed shots, and bend back into cover. This technique
should be used to fight your way into a position of better cover, more advantageous
shooting positions, or for flanking your enemy if working within a team. That
is not to say that this is only good for aggressive movement, but is also fantastic
for defending a fixed position or close quarter battle. With practice you can
become very fast and remain deadly accurate, while only exposing a very small
target for your enemy.
Being "backed off" from your cover so that you can peek around also
allows you to have greater situational awareness. Greater situation awareness
can
win
the battle, and often does. Also be sure to peek out from different positions
so that you do not become predictable. You can peek out standing, crouching,
on the left or right side. Just keep things mixed up to throw off your enemy.
Here
is a good example of some snap shooting being done by a paintball player.
[JWR Adds: I consider paintball a useful adjunct to
tactical firearms training. Just beware that paintball competitors have a tendency
to
start subconsciously
thinking of
concealment as cover (since paint balls have minimal penetration), and they also
develop a "60 yard mindset" wherein they feel safe to maneuver if they
are more than 60 yards from their opponent(s). Modern centerfire rifles of course
have 400+ yard effective range!]
One might say this is something paintballers use and doubt its effectiveness,
but its effectiveness in paintball translates into the real world as well.
So practice snap shooting the next time you go out to shoot and see just how
fast you can engage targets with accurate fire from cover. One very skilled
snap shooter can defend very well against many untrained shooters. I spoke
with a friend of mine who is an Army Ranger and got through most of Green Beret
training before suffering an injury that put him out of training. He never
trained in this style of shooting! It is somewhat surprising that something
people who play paintball use all the time and is extremely effective is unknown
to nearly all combat forces. Make sure you have the edge and train to snap
shoot!
I recommend the AR-15 with a 16" barrel for this, or another short rifle,
because the AR-15 rifle is lightweight, light recoiling, and accurate. It lends
itself well to snap shooting. The .223 is not and will never be a .308, but
will allow you to carry more ammunition for suppressive fire when working in
a team of two or more, so you can cover one another and out flank your enemy
for killing shots if you cant score them from your current piece of cover.
Good luck and train hard.
« The Precious Metals Bull Charges Onward |Main| Note from JWR: »
Sources for Free Survival and Preparedness Information on the Internet, by K.L. in Alaska
Recent comments in SurvivalBlog provided excellent advice on using the public
library. You can gain lots of knowledge with no expense, then purchase only
those books you want to keep on hand for personal reference. Also, many colleges
and universities loan to local residents, so you can use them too, even if
you aren't a student.
If your local libraries participate, a great resource is Worldcat. It lets you search for books from home,
then go check them out, or get them through interlibrary loan.
What will happen to the Internet when the SHTF?
There's no guarantee it will survive. Even if the World Wide Web endures in
some form, most of the individual computers connected to it will not. Hopefully
by then you will have already downloaded all the free info that's going to
help you cope with the new world.
You may want to download a copy of information
on this web site or any other web site with useful content. It would be a shame
to face some disaster when all the resources of the internet are no longer
at your fingertips.
In preparation for a worst case scenario,
it's a good idea to begin now to collect the knowledge that will come in handy
later. You can download whole books, save them to jump drives, and keep an
entire library in a very small space. All kinds of free manuals, guides, tech
tips, and schematics are available on the internet; for everything from firearms
to furnaces to computers to appliances.
All of the downloads listed
here are in the public domain or allowable for copying. Stay away from sites
that may involve copyright infringement. If you use a file-sharing site such
as Limewire, Kazaa, or any site that uses bit torrents, you are not only downloading,
but also uploading. Your participation involves automatically uploading to
other users. If the file is illegal, you are distributing illegal material,
not just downloading it. Stay away from these and stick with the legitimate
sites listed below.
Keep in mind that some of this information you
download might be illegal to use at the present time. You can't practice dentistry
on your neighbor just because you have the book. Nevertheless, you have the
right to possess this very vital information. After TEOTWAWKI,
all bets are off. The information you collect today might save your life or
the life of somebody you love.
Many downloads are in Portable Document Format
(PDF) form, so to read them you must have a suitable program such as Adobe
Reader, which is the free version of Adobe Acrobat. There are alternatives
to Adobe that can read PDF files, if you prefer. Some of these files are very
large. If your internet connection is slow, it's better to right click and
download rather than try to read a huge file online.
Some documents you may want to print out. Others
you can just leave on disc. Just be sure to store your drives safely. Not included
in this list are the many web sites that are very good resources in themselves.
Rather, these are the files you can download for offline viewing at a later
time. Download them while you still can!
Project
Gutenberg was mentioned as a good place to go for eBooks.
The Smithsonian
Institution is another great resource. They have digitized many older
books, maps, and documents in their collection.
Wikisource has
a nice collection of free eBooks.
One way to search for books no longer in copyright is to use Google
Book Search. Check "full view." If it comes up in the search,
it can be downloaded as a PDF file.
A good alternative to Google is the Internet Archive which includes books,
images, audio, and more. The Internet Archive also hosts the Wayback Machine,
which archives copies of an incredible 85 billion pages from the internet of
years past.
Over 100,000 free eBooks can be accessed through Digital Book Index
2020ok is a directory of
free online books and free eBooks
The British Columbia Digital Library has an impressive Collection, including
dictionaries, encyclopedias, and most importantly, the Holy Bible. It also has a Guide to other digital libraries.
Scribd is an online document
library of free research articles, eBooks, and other content.
A great resource for home schoolers is the Internet's largest
directory of free audio & video learning resources maintained by LearnOutLoud.com.
Check out the postings of Home Schooling
On-line Resources on the The Mental Militia Forums, as well as the "Must
Have" Books/reference material topic.
More than 3,200 pages related to the U. S. Constitution can
be downloaded from The Founders' Constitution
Firearms For any
firearm you own or plan to own, you should have a drawing of its Exploded View,
which will help identify parts and how they fit together. One of the most comprehensive
collections of Exploded Views is the paper edition of the Numrich Arms Catalog, which
in itself is a gold mine of information and very inexpensive for a volume of
over 1200 pages.
But if you only need certain Exploded Views, there are many
places on the internet where you can download them for free:
Gunuts is a good place
to start with hundreds of drawings. Another source is The Okie Gunsmith Shop, which
is apparently no longer operating, but you can still download drawings and
parts lists from its web site.Big Bear Gun Works has
another good list. For pre-WWII firearms, check out Gunsworld. For examples of specific
firearms manufacturers, see Remington, Browning, and SKB Shotguns
The book, The Defensive Use Of Firearms by
Shane C. Henry is available as a download from rec.guns. An enormous amount
of additional gun information is available on the rec.guns web site.
There are several good sources for Military Publications: GlobalSecurity.org has
a huge collection of Military manuals.
Try Integrated Publishing for
access to millions of pages of engineering manuals and documents.
The U.S. Army Materiel Command maintains the LOGSA web site for access
to thousands of Army technical manuals.
The U.S. Air Force maintains the Air Force e-Publishing web site.
As mentioned recently, The
Small Wars Journal has a Reference
Library of downloadable military documents.
The Brooke Clarke
web site has a good guide to accessing military field manuals
Surviving War and Nuclear
Attack For a basic guide, download How
To Survive A Chemical Or Biological Attack.
Nuclear War Survival
Skills, along with some other very interesting books, can be found on
the Oregon
Institute of Science and Medicine web site. This book includes plans
for the Kearny Fallout Radiation Meter (KFM). If you have not bought a radiation
meter, you should at least download the book for future reference. You can
also get the Free
Plans from The Oak Ridge National Laboratory. Nuclear War Survival Skills is also available on the KI4U web site as an online
book, but not as a download.
The Equipped To Survive web site
has some free ebooks, as well as books for sale: Survival,
Evasion, and Recovery and U.S. Army Survival Manual FM 21-76.
The Volunteer Center of Marin County, California has prepared A Guide to Organizing
Neighborhoods for Preparedness, Response and Recovery which you
can copy from their web site.
Medical Resources The Disease
Net has a library of downloadable manuals on survival, weapons, emergency
medicine, and less serious subjects.
Virtual Naval Hospital is
a digital library of naval, military, and humanitarian medicine
The very important field manual, First Aid For Soldiers FM 21-11 can be downloaded here.
One of the best medical handbooks available is the U.S. Army Special Forces Medical Handbook ST31-91B.
It can be downloaded free (as well as additional essential guides) from Delta Gear, Inc.
A newer version of the Medical
Handbook, plus more great material can be downloaded from NH-TEMS
(New Hampshire Tactical Emergency medical support).
The
American Red Cross has some of their disaster guides online for download.
For most of their material, you have to go to the local office. Some of it
can be copied from the Earth
Changes Media Survival Tips page.
The Red Cross Book, First
Aid in Armed Conflicts and Other Situations of Violence
The UK Maritime and Coastguard Agency book, The
Ship Captain's Medical Guide
Hesperian makes
available free downloads of its books for medical treatment in primitive conditions.
Two highly respected guides it publishes are Where There Is No Doctor and Where
There Is No Dentist.
Here is a direct link to the must-have book Survival and
Austere Medicine: An introduction. Australian Survivalist Online
has several additional Files
for downloading.
The Department of Agriculture has
a treasure trove of information for free download. This agency maintains The
National Agricultural Library, a collection of free information on Agriculture,
Food and Nutrition, and other related subjects.
Another USDA web site is the Cooperative Extension
Service. Click on the map to navigate to various Extension offices around
the country. Don't limit your search to just your own state. Many of them
have invaluable information on animals, crops, construction, food preparation
and much more for free download.
The
USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) offers downloads about preventing plant and animal diseases,
among other topics.
The USDA Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS) offers Fact
Sheets about food handling and preparation, and emergency preparedness.
Other Important Reference
Resources The classic outdoor guides, The 10
Bushcraft Books by Richard Graves are available on the Chris Molloy web
site. Free manuals for electronic equipment can be downloaded from eServiceInfo.com. Another source is UsersManualGuide.com. For Ham Radio
and Test Equipment Manuals, the KO4BB web site has Free Downloads, as well as LINKS to many other web sites with free downloads. A few examples
of repair information for outdoor equipment are Penn Reel Schematics,
and Mercury outboard
parts.
Paid Services In
the unlikely event that you can't find free information on the Net to fix that
generator or whatever you need to repair, there are web sites that charge for
information. As a last resort, you can check Sam's PHOTOFACT service manuals,
or RepairManual.com. Hopefully,
that won't be necessary.
The foregoing just begins to scratch the surface. Some of
these free downloads are also available as books or CDs from eBay, Amazon or
from some of the survivalist web sites. That is fine. Sometimes it is easier
to just pay the money and buy the book. But nobody can afford it all, and downloading
gives you access to millions of pages - much more knowledge than you could
acquire through any other method.
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Letter Re: Skills Versus Gear for Survival
Jim,
After reading the Profiles you
have posted. I have come to the conclusion I cannot hold a dime to these folks.
Makes me wonder why should I bother. Hmmm,
that thought lasts all of five seconds. A lot of the people for whom you profiled
are in a much higher income bracket than the rest of us working folks. Personally,
I have two jobs and work 12-14 hours a day. I was unlucky enough to be in
a third rear end collision. In my life time this year, although instead of
being rear ended by an illegal uninsured illegal alien like the last two times.
This time I was rear ended by a 94 year old woman who also was uninsured.
Makes it hard to work with post-concussion syndrome from Traumatic Brain Injury
(TBI).
I have a hard time with short term memory. But do what I can, the best that
I can.
I live in a small city in Massachusetts in a 500 square foot second floor apartment
in
a
house.
I have four 15-gallon water containers + 15 cases of Poland Spring 3 liter bottles,
About 20 cases of MREs
or the equivalent thereof. I bought only the items I knew I liked, 20 cases of
the
two
person pouches from Mountain House again a chosen menu but rather extensive.
Also 50 #10 [one gallon] cans of both freeze-dried food and dehydrated foods--mostly
soups in the dehydrated department. I have close to 15 weeks supply of groceries.
I
work
in a supermarket for one of my jobs and I look around during my break for "ideas " to
expand my dietary habits.
I have canned butter, cheese, bread, and meats. My other job allows me to get
discounts on a product called a Vittle Vault. An 80 gallon air/water tight container
which I use to bury my other food (all freeze dried pouches) but not before
sealing it in plastic from a nifty device I found at Costco one day ( One day
I was shopping at Costco and I stopped to look at something else and came back
to my cart and there it was just sitting in my cart. Never did find who put it
there. Anyway it has found a good home with me ever since.:) Everything is
hidden away. Amazing what one can stuff safely under the bed. I have a couple
of products that run on propane one-pound cylinders like the Mr. Heater Big Buddy
and a Coleman lantern. The Christmas Tree Shoppe is world renowned for having
lots of candles on sale all the time too. Although do not want to have any lights
on when other do not. Not too draw any unnecessary attention to ones self.
I have a Black Berkey water filtration system, with a half dozen back up filters
and several 5 gallon buckets for either the collection of snow or from the stream
out back, or to use as an emergency dry toilet.
I am a faithful practitioner of homeopathic remedies,and have quite the collection
of remedies and books and homeopathic today magazines. Which I read all the time,
to keep it fresh in my memory. Also read a lot of medical/ wilderness first aid
books. Took a class from the National Ski Patrol. Thought it would be another
1st aid class. Boy was I wrong. Three months later they awarded me with a WEMT
certification, finished top 3 in my class of 20. I have an easier time learning " if
I can play with it ". So now I have a collection of 500 EMT flash
cards that I go through twice a week, Also Wilderness Way magazine read
through
my collection of 40 magazines every
week as well. My library also included books on herbs, symptoms, pathology,
anatomy, first aid, NBC,
wilderness survival.
I'm obtaining a [State-issued] Firearms Identification (FID) card soon, God willing
for
a
long
gun
or
three.
Handguns
are
not allowed in Massachusetts for subjects err I mean citizens. Also magazines
over ten rounds are not permissible unless one has a handgun permit for that
as well
or
its off
to jail for a year, no questions asked. Trying my best to avoid the jail part.
Go to a gun range three times a month and rent a instructor and a gun of my choosing
over 300 to choose from ( guns)and say teach me how to use this. Stocked up on
medical supplies and trauma kits mostly from Galls.com.
I have wiped out many a first aid kits just from cutting my finger. What am I
preparing for I think
the economy is going to blow out sooner than later. Like it would not surprise
me if it happened in the next 30-to-60 days. How bad it will be and how long
it will last?. No clue but history shows major wars start with major economic
troubles.
Oh forgot to mention already went shopping at KI4U and
got the complete package. A lot of other items I am sure I left out but you get
the gist of it.
The longer the economy survives the longer we have time to prepare, for whatever.
I
do not wish the dollar to die but if it does die then I hope it enjoys a long,
very
long lingering death. - Scott V.
JWR Replies: I commend you for your dedication, Scott. I
have long held the opinion that true
preparedness is more about skills than it is about money.
I have a lot of wealthy consulting clients that have heaps of supplies and
tools,
but I have my doubts about their ability to actually survive when
things get Schumeresque.
When I ask them about firearms training, they often say that they have the
money, but that they don't have the time to attend. What good is a large firearms
battery if you aren't confident and competent with these tools? (Some owners
admit that they haven't even zeroed all of their guns!) I hear similar
lame excuses
about first aid training. Many community classes are available free or
for a nominal fee, but few take the time
to attend them. And the same for physical fitness. Most exercises take little
or no equipment, or can even be done with improvised "low cost/no cost") equipment.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| During a Disaster Event Should You Stay at Home or Leave?, by Grandpappy »
Letter Re: Hunkering Down in an Urban Apartment in a Worst Case Societal Collapse
Hello,
In the event of a disaster (I live in New York City) I intend to shelter
in place until all the riotous mobs destroy each other or are starved out.
I am preparing for up to six months. I have one liter of water stored for
each day (180 liters) and about 50 pounds of rice to eat as well as various
canned
goods. I have not seen on your site anything about heat sources for urban
dwellers who intend to shelter in place. I'm assuming that electricity would
go first soon followed by [natural] gas and running water. Do you have any
recommendations for cooking rice and other foods in this event.
I am considering oil lamps or candles, methane gel used for chafing dishes,
or small propane tanks. Because of the small size of my apartment and potential
hazards of storing fuel I'm unsure which would be best. Please advise. Thank
You, - Michael F.
JWR Replies: I've heard your intended
approach suggested by a others, including one of my consulting clients. Frankly,
I do not think that it is realistic. From
an actuarial standpoint, your chances of survival would probably be low--certainly
much lower than "Getting
Out of Dodge" to a lightly populated area at the onset of a crisis. Undoubtedly,
in a total societal collapse (wherein "the riotous mobs destroy each other",
as
you predict)
there
will be some stay-put
urbanites
that
survive
by their wits, supplemented by plenty of providential fortune. But the vast majority
would perish. I wouldn't want to play those odds. There are many drawbacks
to your plan, any one of which could attract notice (to be followed
soon after by a pack of goblins with a battering ram.) I'll discuss a few complexities
that you may not have fully considered:
Water. Even with extreme conservation measures you will need
at least one gallon
of water per day. That one gallon of water will provide just
enough water for one adult for drinking and cooking. None for
washing. If you run out of water before the rioting ends then you will be
forced
to go out
and forage for water, putting yourself at enormous risk. And even then, you
will have to treat the water that you find with chlorine, iodine (such as Polar
Pure--now very scarce), or with a top quality water filter such as a Katadyn
Pocket water filter.
Food. For a six month stay, you will need far more than just
50 pounds of rice! Work out a daily menu and budget for an honest six month
supply of food with a decent variety and sufficient caloric intake.
Don't overlook vitamin supplements to make up for the lack of fresh fruit and
vegetables. Sprouting is also a great option to provide vitamins and minerals,
as well
as aiding digestion. Speaking of digestion, depending on how your body reacts
to the change in diet (to your storage food), you may need need a natural laxative
in your diet such as bran, or perhaps even a bulk laxative such as Metamucil.
Sanitation. Without water for flushing toilets, odds
are that people in neighboring apartments will dump raw sewage out their windows,
causing
a public health nightmare on the ground floor. Since you will not want to alert
others to your presence by opening your window, and no doubt the apartment
building's
septic
system stack will be clogged in short order, you will need to make plans to
store
you
waste in your apartment. I suggest five gallon buckets. A bucket-type
camping toilet seat (a seat that attaches to a standard five or six gallon
plastic pail) would be ideal. You should also get a large supply of powdered
lime to cut
down on the stench before each bucket is sealed. You must also consider the
sheer number of storage containers required for six months of accumulated human
waste.
(Perhaps
a dozen
5 gallon
buckets
with tight-fitting o-ring seal lids would be sufficient.) Since you won't have
water
available for washing, you should also lay in a supply of diaper wipes.
Space heating. In mid-winter you could freeze to death in
your apartment without supplemental heat. As I will discuss later, a small
heater or just a few candles
can keep the air temperature above freezing.
Ventilation. If you are going to use any source of open flame,
you will need lots of additional ventilation. Asphyxiation from lack of oxygen
or slow carbon
monoxide (CO) poisoning are the alternatives. Unfortunately, in the circumstances
that you envision, the increased ventilation required to mitigate
these hazards will be a security risk--as a
conduit for the smell of food or fuel, as a source of light that can be seen
from outside the apartment, and as an additional point of entry for robbers.
Security. The main point of entry for miscreants
will probably be your apartment door. Depending on the age of your apartment,
odds are that
you have
a traditional solid core wood door. In a situation where law and order has
evaporated, the malo hombres will be able to take their time and break
through doors with fire axes, crow bars and improvised battering rams. It is
best to replace wooden apartment doors with steel ones. Unless you own a
condo rather than lease an apartment, approval for a door retrofit is unlikely.
However, your apartment manager might approve of this if you pay for
all the work yourself and you have it painted to match the existing doors.
Merely
bracing a wood door will not suffice. Furthermore, if you have an
exterior window with a fire escape or your apartment has a shared balcony,
then those
are also
points of entry for the
bad guys. How could you effectively barricade a large expanse of windows?
If you live in a ground floor apartment or an older apartment with exterior
metal fire escapes, then I recommend that you move as soon
as possible to a third, fourth, or fifth floor apartment that is in a modern
apartment building
of
concrete construction,
preferably without balconies, with steel entry doors, and with interior fire escape stairwells.
Self Defense. To fend off intruders, or for self defense
when you eventually emerge from your apartment, you will need to be well-armed.
Preferably you should also be teamed with
at least two other armed and trained adults. Look into local legalities
on
large volume pepper spray dispensers. These are marketed primarily as bear
repellent, with brand names like "Guard Alaska", "Bear Guard", and "17% Streetwise."
If they are indeed legal in your jurisdiction, then buy several of the big
one-pound dispensers, first making sure that they are at least
a 12% OC formulation.
If you can get
a firearms
permit--a bit complicated in New York City , but not an insurmountable task--then
I recommend that you get a Remington, Winchester, or Mossberg 12 gauge pump
action
shotgun with a SureFire flashlight forend. #4 Buckshot (not to be confused
with the much smaller #4 bird shot) is the best load for defense in
an urban environment where over-penetration (into
neighboring
apartments)
is an issue. But if getting a firearms permit proves too daunting, there is
a nice exemption in the New
York City
firearms
laws
for
muzzleloaders
and pre-1894 manufactured antique guns that are chambered for cartridges
that are no
longer commercially made. It is not difficult to find a Winchester Model
1876 or a Model 1886 rifle that is in a serial number range that distinguishes
it as pre-1894 production.
(See: Savage99.com for
exact dates of manufacture on 12 different rifle models.) You will be
limited to chamberings like
.40-65 and .45-90. You can have a supply of ammunition custom loaded. A Winchester
Model 1873 or and early Model 1892 chambered in .38-40 might also be an option,
but I would recommend one of the more potent calibers available in the large
frame
(Model
1876 or 1886 ) rifles. Regardless, be sure to select rifles with excellent
bores and nice mechanical condition.
For an antique handgun, I would recommend a S&W
double action top break revolver chambered in .44 S&W Russian. None
of the major manufacturers produce .44 S&W Russian ammunition. However,
semi-custom extra mild loads (so-called "cowboy"
loads, made specially for the Cowboy Action
Shooting enthusiasts) in .44 S&W Russian are now available from Black
Hills Ammunition. The Pre-1899 Specialist (one of our advertisers) often has
large
caliber S&W
double action top break revolvers available for sale. The top breaks are very
fast to load, and you can even use modern speed loaders designed for .44 Special
or .44 Magnum cartridges with the stumpy .44 S&W Russian loads.(It has
the same cartridge "head" dimensions.)
Firearms training from a quality school (such as Front
Sight) is crucial.
Fire Detection and Contingency Bug-Out. A battery-powered
smoke detector is an absolute must. Even if you are careful with candles,
lanterns, and cook stoves, your neighbors may not be. There is a considerable
risk that
your
apartment
building will catch fire, either intentionally of unintentionally. Therefore,
you need to have a "Bug Out" backpack ready to grab at a moment's
notice. Although they are no proper substitute for a fireman's compressed
air breathing rig, a
commercially-made egress smoke hood or a
military surplus gas mask might allow you to escape your building
in time. But even if you escape the smoke and flames,
then
where
will that
you
leave
you?
Outdoors,
at an unplanned hour (day or night), in a hostile big city that is blacked
out, with no safe means of escape. (This might prove far too reminiscent of
the the 1980s Kurt Russell movie
"Escape from New York.") By the time this happens, the mobs
may not want just
the contents of your backpack. They may be sizing you up for a meal!
Fuel storage. Bulk fuel storage has three problematic issues:
1.) as a safety issue (fire hazard), 2.) as a security issue (odors that could
attract
robbers),
and
3.) as a legal
issue (fire code or tenant contract restrictions). I suspect that
New York City's fire code would not allow you have more than a week's worth
of propane on hand, and completely prohibit keeping more than just one small
container of kerosene or Coleman fuel. From the standpoint of both safety and
minimizing detectable odors, propane
is
probably
the best option. (The odors of kerosene and chafing dish gel are both quite
discernable.) But of course consult both your local fire code and your apartment
lease agreement
to determining
the
maximum
allowable
quantity
to keep
on hand.
Odds are that there will be no limit on the number of candles that you can
store. If that is the case, then lay in large supply of unscented jar
candles designed for long-burning (formulated high in stearic acid.) I
suggest the tall, clear glass jar-enclosed "devotional" candles manufactured
in large numbers for the Catholic market. You can even heat individual servings
of food over these if you construct a stand with a wide base out of stout
wire. Watch for these candles at discount and close-out stores. We have found
that
the
large adhesive labels slip off easily if you soak the jars in water for an
hour. Since their burning time is approximately 24 hours, and since
you might
need
two
of them
burning
simultaneously for
sufficient
light
and to stay warm,
that would necessitate laying in a supply of 360 candles! (This assumes that
the worst case, with the outset of a crisis in October, and your having to
hunker down
for a full six months.)
Fire fighting. Buy at least two large multipurpose ("A-B-C")
chemical fire extinguishers
Cooking odors. In addition to the smell of fuel, cooking
food will produce odors. I recommend that you store only foods with minimal
spices. In situation where you are surrounded by starving people, just frying
foods with grease or heating up a can of spicy chili con carne could
be a death warrant.
Noise discipline. Just the sound of moving around your apartment
could reveal your presence. For some useful background,
see if your local library has a copy of the best-selling memoir "The
Pianist", by Wladyslaw
Szpilman.
(If not, buy a copy through Amazon or request a copy via inter-library loan.
It has been published in 35 languages. The US edition's ISBN is 0312244150.)
The book describes the harrowing experiences of a Jewish musician in hiding
in Warsaw, Poland,
during
the
Second
World War.
Following
the 1943
Warsaw Ghetto uprising and forced deportation, Szpilman spent many months
locked in a Warsaw apartment, receiving just a few parcels of food from some
gentile friends.
In his situation, the power and water utilities were still operating most of
the
time,
but he
suffered from slow
starvation and lived in absolute fear of making any noise. His survival absolutely
defied the odds. There was also an excellent 2002
movie based on Szpilman's book, but the memoir provides greater detail
than the film.
Light discipline. If you have any source of light
in your apartment, it could reveal your presence. In an extended power blackout,
it will become
obvious to looters within a couple of weeks who has lanterns or large supplies
of candles and/or flashlight batteries. (Everyone else will run out within
less than two weeks.) And I predict that it will be the apartments
that are still lit up that will be deemed the ones worth robbing.
So if you are going to have a light source, you must systematically black out
all of your windows. But sadly these efforts will be in direct conflict with
your need for ventilation for
your heating
and/or
cooking.
Heat. With the aforementioned restrictions on fuel storage,
heating your apartment for more than just a few days will probably be impossible.
Buy an expedition quality sleeping bag--preferably a two-bag
system such as a
Wiggy's brand FTRSS. Under
the circumstances that you describe, don't attempt to heat your
entire apartment. Instead, construct a small room-within-a-room (Perhaps
under a large dining room table, or by setting up a camping tent inside your
apartment, to hoard heat.) Even if the rest of the
apartment drops to 25 or 30 degrees Fahrenheit, your body heat alone will keep
your demi-room
in the 40s. Burning just one candle will raise the temperature another 5 or
10 degrees. For the greatest efficiency at retaining heat, your demi-room
should be draped with two layers of mylar
space blankets.
Exercise. While you are "hunkered down", you will
need to maintain muscle tone. Get some quiet exercise equipment,
such as a pull-up bar and some large elastic straps. Perhaps, if your budget
allows in the future,
also purchase or construct your own a quiet stationary
bicycle-powered generator. This would provide both exercise and battery charging.
Sanity. .Hunkering down
solo in silence for six months would be a supreme
challenge,
both physically
and
mentally. Assuming that you can somehow tackle all of the aforementioned
problems, you also need to plan to stay sane. Have lots of reading materials
on hand.
In conclusion, when one considers the preceding long list
of dependencies and complexities, it makes "staying
put" in a worst case very unattractive. In less inimical circumstance, it
is
certainly feasible, but in a grid-down situation
with utilities disrupted and
wholesale
looting
and rioting in progress, the big city is no place to live. But, as always,
this is just my perspective and your mileage may vary (YMMV).
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Letter Re: A Twenty-Something EMT with Limited Preps Storage Space
Mr. Rawles,
First off I would like to thank you for your profound impact on my life in the
last four months. All of my life I grew up with a father and grandfather who
were/are minor survivalist men. They believe that the end times are coming
and we should
prepare for them. They keep about three days of food and water at their homes
and plenty of guns and ammo. For the longest time I always thought it was ridiculous
and never understood it. Now my thinking has changed to the fact that they
are under prepared. When I was 11 my parents divorced and they both re-married.
After high school my dad moved to Arizona and I do not see him much and live
with my mother who thinks
my dad was "crazy" for his survivalist lifestyle.
Five months ago I met my boyfriend. Our second date we went shooting and our
third we went fishing. We are very outdoors-oriented people. One day he handed
me your book "Patriots" and
I shrugged it off for a little while. Eventually I picked it up and didn't put
it down till I was done reading it. It changed
my life. Soon after I became a SurvivalBlog reader and have a moderately stocked
bug
out bag. We have talked about a future together and dream of a life together
and
it includes getting a house and prepared for TEOTWAWKI because
we both know
it will happen eventually.
My issue is that I live with my mom and stepfather. I have a small room and
small car. My parents don't allow me to store anything in their garage or tool
shed
and are in a "getting rid of stuff" mood. They think having a day or
two worth of food in our RV outside
will cut in for a SHTF situation.
My mom freaked out that I wanted to bring my 12 gauge shotgun to her house when
I got
it, so it stays at my boyfriends along with my M44 [Mosin Nagant carbine] who
also
lives
at
home.
Needless
to say if I asked for a place to store food and water I would become "crazy
like your father" which is what she said when she saw my Bug-Out Bag (BOB)
in
my closet. In addition to that I pay for my own car and bills, work 40 hours
a week
and
am a student.
In January I will be attending paramedic school and that will take
a lot of time and money. That being said I also already have a lot of medical
supplies around my room and car since I am an EMT. I'm also a girl who has
a lot of clothes and a closet jam packed with them and old school books. I
also
have shelves and a desk, again filled with books and personal items that I
simply cannot part with. (childhood memories) I have very little space and
very little
money. I know there are many ways to start small with survival, but do you
have any suggestions for storage that I can get to while being cost efficient
and
not asking a friend who would think I'm crazy? Any advice would truly be appreciated.
I know most of the blog readers either have their own place or a place to store
things but in my situation I can't think of anything.
Thank you again for changing my life and how I think of the world. Sincerely,
- Michelle
T.
JWR Replies: Don't be discouraged about the state of your
preparations. Just store things as best as you can with the space that you
have available
until after you are
married
and have a place of your own. You might want to enquire about the price renting
a small commercial storage space. If that is cost prohibitive, then you might
wangle
some extra
garage or attic space with friends or relatives. Another possibility might
be to get permission from your EMT organization to store two or three padlocked
"contingency" footlockers of clothing and food--stenciled with your
name and "Contingency Gear"--for you in a back room. You can explain
that in some disaster situations you might have to stay "on station" 24
hours a day, with no chance to go home.
Regardless of where you store things, just keep
in
mind that heat will greatly reduce the shelf life of most storage foods. See
for example this
chart at MREInfo.com on MRE shelf life versus temperature.
OBTW, if you can handle the recoil of a 12 gauge and 7.62x54R from a light
carbine like a M44 Mosin-Nagant, then you
rate pretty high in my book. And you are an EMT, too? And outdoorsy? Please tell your boyfriend
that--at least according to this editor--he has found himself a good choice for
a bride.
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Letter Re: Using .22 Rimfire Conversions for Low Cost Pistol Practice
Jim:
I have just finished firing 500 rounds through an Advantage
Arms .22 conversion
for my Glock 17 and Glock 22 While not as accurate as my .22 Ruger pistol,
it allows me to practice my shooting skills using the same holster and magazine
carriers
at fraction of what 9mm and .40 cost. More importantly, by using a conversion
rather than a different pistol such as the Ruger, I am developing the same
muscle memory, skills, and techniques I will use when shooting my service
pistol. I chose the Advantage Arms over the Ciener conversion because the
slide locks
open when the magazine is empty, allowing me to practice my reloading skills.
The conversion is well made except for the fragile factory Glock adjustable
sights and only comes with one 10 round magazine. They also make conversions
for the 1911 style pistols.
- Bill N.
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Letter Re: Preparedness for Less Than a Worst Case, From an Eastern Urbanite's Perspective
Hello Jim,
I am very new reader of your blog and am just now starting to go through the
archives. Based on what I’ve read so far, I commend you on putting together
a useful, fact-intensive blog on “survivalism” (whatever that means),
that isn’t geared towards loony, off-the-reservation, tinfoil hat-type
readers, who believe that 9/11 was a plot masterminded by Halliburton.
That said, one problem I suspect I will have with your blog is that you consistently
seem to be preparing for an extreme, and more-or-less permanent, breakdown
of society—or TEOTWAWKI, if you will. In one of your blog posts, you
noted that the problem with preparing for TEOTWAWKI, is that “between
now and then, you have your life to live.” This statement is particularly
true for those of us who don’t live out West, don’t live in rural
environments (let alone, gasp, urban east coast cities), have young children,
drive a minivan, and enjoy otherwise the soft, latte-sipping lifestyles of
Yuppiedom in the second Golden Age of American wealth.
My family and I fall into that category to a great deal. Don’t get me
wrong: I e-ticketed most of my courses at Gunsite, so I’m no head-in-the
sand sheeple. And I’m a pretty capable empty hand fighter. But I also
grew up in the suburbs and didn’t exactly spend my youth learning to
trap, fish, hunt, or plant seeds. I am married to a lovely wife who has no
interest in learning to run a carbine, and we have a young daughter who prevents
us from grabbing bug-out rucks and heading off to the bush for two weeks. In
any event, if we ever managed to actually get from our 30th floor apartment
in Manhattan to the bush, I’m not sure we’d know what to do.
The point I’m making is that there are a lot of people like us—people
who live in cities, who don’t feel in the least bit at home in the outdoors,
who aren’t going to learn about land nav or plotting azimuths, who aren’t
going to buy a bug-out retreat in the country that is going to lie empty 52
weeks a year, and who are basically screwed if TEOTWAWKI actually and truly
arrives.
Barring TEOTWAWKI, it seems to me that we are infinitely more likely to face
moderately scary scenarios, like Hurricane Katrina and necessary urban evacuation,
some urban 1970s style civil disturbance but nothing like Mogadishu, high-intensity
individual criminal acts, a low-order terrorist event nearby and the accompanying
panic, or some other situation shy of the worst case scenario.
We urbanites can prepare for those events, while not being entirely distracted
from our workaday “ordinary” lives, or dedicating ourselves to
trying to get off-the-grid. I certainly have made some attempts to prepare.
For example, I have no doubt that we’re in the 99th percentile of Manhattan
preparedness by virtue of the fact that we own:
- a well maintained and fueled Honda CRV with GPS, local region street maps,
XM radio (for news), an empty 5 gallon gas can, and various vehicle repair
tools
- a (legally permitted) pistol and shotgun, and enough ammunition for a firefight
and reload under civilian ROEs
- $4,000 in cash
- a week of MREs and water, full rations
- a PVS-14 [night vision] monocular
- soft body armor
- basic camping equipment
- various tools like a good knife, a pry bar, Surefire lights, chemlights,
paracord, etc.
- a fully stocked medical kit, 30 days of scrip drugs, and a copy of “Medicine
for the Outdoors”
- personal hygiene gear
- a roll of 1mm poly sheeting and a ton of 100 mph tape
- full face respirators and disposable N100 masks
- GMRS radios, shortwave radio, a hand crank radio
- a ton of batteries
- a USB key and a 500 GB backup drive with all our important information
- 1 box of critical paper documents
- clothing suitable for the seasons
- baby stuff
Most of this gear is boxed, labeled, and stored in a single closet that we’ve
dedicated to SHTF equipment. The other stuff (car, guns, cash, key documents,
etc.) could be policed up in 10 minutes, and is written down on a checklist.
If we had to, I reckon we could shelter in place for a week, or we could bug
out in an hour (assuming, of course, Manhattan was not totally gridlocked).
I’d be very interested in your thoughts about what urbanites should be
doing to prepare for bad times, given the restrictions of space, limited knowledge
of/interest in outdoorsman skills, “Yuppie” lifestyle constraints,
etc. Thanks. - D.C.
JWR Replies: For someone that lives on Manhattan Island,
you are definitely quite well-prepared!
Some preparedness upgrades that I'd recommend for you:
1.) Pre-positioning some
supplies stored with friends or relatives, or perhaps in a commercial storage
space, at least 150 miles out of the city, on your intended
"Get Out of Dodge" route. (For that dreaded "worst case.")
2.) Adding a rifle to your firearms battery. With New
York City's semi-auto and magazine restrictions, you might consider
a .308 Bolt action with either a
small detachable
magazine,
or perhaps a non-detachable magazine. A Steyr Scout would be a good choice.
Some semi-auto rifles that might be approved include top-loading M1
Garands
and FN49s. (No doubt easier if you are a member of a CMP-associated
shooting club.) If you can't get permit approval for any modern rifles,
then there is a handy exemption
for
long
guns
"manufactured
prior
to
1894
and replicas
which
are not
designed to
fire fixed ammunition, or for which fixed ammunition is not commercially
available." You might consider a pre-1894 production Winchester Model
1876 or 1886 in an
obsolete caliber such
as .40-60 or .45-90. (See my
FAQ on pre-1899 cartridge guns for details. Be sure
to select rifles with excellent bores and nice mechanical condition.
3.) A
small photovoltaic panel for recharging your flashlights, radios, and
night vision gear batteries.(Along with a 300+ Amp Hour 12 VDC "Jump Pack"
(such as JCWhitney.com's
item # ZX265545) and 12 VDC "DC to DC" battery charging trays and the
various requisite cords.)
4.) A supply of antibiotics.
5.) Consult your local fire code, and store
the maximum legally-allowable quantity of extra gasoline, assuming you have
a safe place to store it. (I realize that most Manhattanites have their cars
stored commercially with no additional storage space, and it can be a 20
minute car-juggling exercise just to get your hands on your car, depending
on how "deep" you are parked.) If extra gas will be stored in your
vehicle, then be sure to get one or more Explosafe
brand fuel cans,
and strap them down securely so that they will maintain their integrity in
the even of a vehicle collision.
You might consider upgrading to a mid-size 4WD SUV (such as an E85-compatible
Ford Explorer) and have it fitted with an auxiliary roof rack where you can
carry extra gas cans. (Again, I realize that most Manhattan parking garages
have height limitations, but do your best.)
« Letter Re: Advice on Compact Solar-Powered Refrigerators for Insulin |Main| Note from JWR: »
"Zeroing In" Your Bugout Bag, by SF in Hawaii
Last week my wife told me that another couple had gotten reservations at the
cabins at Haleakela
State Park for the Labor Day Weekend. We would hike across the crater
floor,
then down the Kaupo Gap. These are hard to come by and since we were invited,
I felt we had
to go. Great, a chance to try out my bug out bag. I gave my feet a liberal and
prophylactic spraying of anti-fungal medication (a ritual I would end up doing
every morning on that trip) and put on my Bug-Out Bag (BOB).
Before we left,
I
unscrewed the aluminum pole from a mop, checked to make sure my
backup knife would fit
on it
and now I had myself both
a strong and lightweight walking stick as well as a spear in case a wild boar
came too close. The BOB weighed in at 55 pounds. I'm 160 and with the
backpack
I was using it felt like a manageable weight.
On the way there, the steering and brakes on the car went out. I hit the emergency
brake and slowed down. The engine just turned off. Since it had power steering
and
brakes, when the car turned off, they went off too. Strange for a reasonably
new car. It started up again so I figured EMP was
ruled out. We drove up to about 10,000 feet, got our gear on and started hiking.
It was a steep decline into
the volcanic caldera/crater and within about 10 minutes I noticed a hot feeling
in the heels of my feet. You see, as a sufferer of athletes foot, I tend to keep
my shoes loose. Bad idea. Loose shoes make blisters. I stopped and got out the
moleskins but I didn't have a pair of scissors. Let me say for the record, a
knife is not a pair of scissors. These are separate tools. There I was with my
BAK (Big
A** knife) trying to cut moleskin pieces. Not only was it the wrong tool for
the
job, but one
slip and it would be a bloody mess.
To take the pressure off my heels, I walked
native style (toe to heel) and this helped.
We hiked for the rest of the day through what can only be described at the surface
of Mars and finally arrived at the first cabin. The manual pedometer gave me
some lousy data. It was set for a 2 foot step/4 foot stride length but I forgot
to take into consideration that stride changes with inclines and declines. When
I got there I tried out my Zipstove for
the first time. At first glance, it looked like something made in a high school
metal shop class,
and it's a lot heavier than other stoves, but then again, I didn't need to pack
any fuel. It has a battery operated fan built in and get fires hot real fast.
I hit my sparker into a cotton ball with some vaseline rubbed in and presto.
I dropped the little ball of fire into the stove, and added a few twigs and turned
on the fan. Wow. The stove worked great. In a minute or two dinner was on it's
way. I'll be investing in their titanium version and perhaps I can swap out their
metal fan for a plastic one to drop the weight. I was cooking in a titanium
Titan pot and I was concerned that
due to the rapid heat transfer of titanium I'd burn the food but it never happened.
Another nice thing about cooking with titanium is that as fast as it heats up,
it cools down too and less than a minute after taking it off the fire, the top
was cool enough grab and move around. We sat around when the lights went out,
lit some candles and played Hearts for a few hours. (Make note to get Hoyle's
Encyclopedia of Card games.) Before I went to bed I inspected my feet. Yup.
Two huge blisters, one on each foot. These were the biggest blisters I'd ever
had. Each one covered my entire heel. I also had burns on the backs of my hands.
I
was wearing nylon
pants and a long sleeve shirt
to keep out of the sun, and because we all know 'cotton kills.' I also had
a
cloth over my head which I kept in place by wearing a pair of sunglasses which
had a retaining strap on them to keep from getting lost during activity. The
strap around the back of my head kept the rag in place nicely and with the exception
of a spot on my nose, I escaped the searing rays of Hawaii at 10,000 feet. What
I didn't think to cover was the backs of my hands. The were bright red and angry
when I saw them. I cut squared of cloth off my head rag and placed on the backs
of each hand. I held them in place (mostly) with rubber bands around my wrists.
They kept me from getting burned any worse, but it was a constant annoyance repositioning
them for the rest of the trip. (Make note, put tactical gloves in BOB).
The next morning after having some oatmeal, I packed up. I put on another pair
of socks and this was helpful as with less wiggle room, my feet didn't slip around
so much and maybe I wouldn't make any new blisters. My wife suggested that in
her experience (She hiked the Thorong
La Pass.
I lance the blisters. (Make note to bring needle in first aid kit) I left the
blisters alone. Personal preference. The other fellow on the trip I noticed had
the soles of one of his shoes come off. He was wrapping cord around them to hold
them together when I suggested he use the awl tool on his swiss army knife to
stitch them back on his shoe. He liked this idea and it worked. (Make note, find
that Speedy
Stitcher and add it to my BOB.)
The second day was excruciatingly painful. I can't recall the last time I was
in that much pain for that long a period. I now had pain along the entire bottom
surface of my foot. There was no comfortable way to walk. I was very grateful
for the walking stick! Sure I could have make one from wood on the trail, but
it would have been much heavier and bulkier to be as strong as the cheap aluminum
tube.
After hours of promising myself I would never go hiking again, we arrived at
the second cabin. At this point the fellow's second shoe fell apart. Keep in
mind that both shoes were in good condition before we left. His wife was also
having shoe trouble but she overcame it with a safety pin. (Make note, safety
pins.) More cards and dinner and now the other people were complaining. No
one else had a good external frame pack and their hips and backs were sore. For
me, it was just my feet. Even though my pack outweighed anyone else's there by
a factor of 2, it was a good pack and now showing itself to be worth the high
cost.
The third day we had to hike down from over 6,000' to 1,000'. We'd already gone
from 10,000' to 6,000 the previous two days and left the Martian landscape. We
were now in fog enshrouded hills and rain forests. The next 5,000' would be a
30 degree incline though rain forests and meadows. I filled up my 4 steel water
bottles with filtered water from my Katadyn and told my wife that with the condition
of my feet, I wanted to leave a hour and a half before the rest of the group
as I'd be going slow. I also wanted to hike in the morning to stay out of the
heat . She finally agreed and we slushed though thigh high wet grass and we were
both
soaked in short order. It was about five minutes into the hike that I learned
that not only were my hiking shoes too big, but they weren't waterproof nor even
water
resistant. The cool dewy water was sloshing around in by boots for hours. It
wasn't just an annoyance either. When I took the map I got from the Ranger station
out of my pocket, it was soaked and the pages were sticking together. Oh, did
I mention that the trail I was taking was right along a crease on the map and
due to the water damage it was totally illegible? (Make note, put Zip lock bags
in BOB).
Although she didn't say anything, I know she was pissed. Cold, wet and pissed
but when she realized how hard the hike was getting, she looked at me. "I'll
just say it once and get it over with. I told you so." She thanked me.
We smiled and moved on. That extra time was great to have. I used an altimeter
to
guesstimate where we were on the map. I didn't bring my topos with me, but
it was a great psychological benefit to know how much longer you had to go.
My wife started complaining about her left knee under when we stopped at an
old growth Koa tree. We snacked on ostrich filets (kept at 150 degrees in the
oven
overnight), peanuts and some chocolate. She wanted a Koa walking stick. "But
that's a heavier wood and look, no straight branches here darling." Well,
she wanted one anyway so I hacked her a walking stick, put a point on the bottom
and cut away the bark where her hand would grip it. At about 4,000 feet I saw
my wife walking backwards for a few seconds. I tried it and it was great. Although
it was riskier, I couldn't walk forwards anymore. Aside from the fact that
my blisters were hurting, I now had somehow developed a pain in my left knee
too.
It only hurt when I walked forward, or sideways (yes I tried that too) so my
wife and I walked backwards down the rocky and treacherous declines for miles.
The trails were covered with golf ball and base ball sized spherical lava rocks
that acted like ball bearings. It was hard going and nerve racking. I made
us both drink like fishes and soon I was dripping with sweat and she was peeing
like a racehorse. Every time my mouth got dry I drank and so did she. I wasn't
thirsty but I drank anyhow. Then the water stopped feeling good to drink. Dang,
with all this drinking and sweating I was beginning to going hyponatremic.
(Make
note, put ORS packets
in BOB). On the milder inclines I tried walking while dragging my left leg
behind me to avoid having to bend it. It was slow going and again,
my wife thanked me for getting us out early. We came across some ambiguous
fork in the road and she lost it for a bit. I said that I thought both trails
would
probably work and let her pick the route. She picked and then got nervous. "What
if it's the wrong one?" She was starting to lose it again. "This
trail is the correct trail." I said forcefully and with more
confidence that I really had about her choice. She seemed okay with that and
we kept going.
We used the last of the water that everyone said I was crazy to bring just minutes
before reaching the rendezvous point. One of the women in the group I later found
out had a near nervous breakdown as she never knew how much farther she had to
go. That altimeter kept my wife and I sane.
I'm finally home and writing this out before I forget. The blisters will probably
heal in a week the knee, who knows. (Make note, put ace bandages and maybe
even knee and ankle supports in BOB). I'll be walking with a cane for a bit
but no
permanent damage, I don't think. I will now have a dedicated foot first aid
section for my BOB. Consider giving your BOB a test run. You may find things
you want
in it you don't have now and some things you can do without. I think of my
BOB like a gun now. If it's all shiny and new but not zeroed in, you may be
in for
some nasty surprises. - SF in Hawaii
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| How to Make Old Fashioned Homemade Soap (Part 3 of 3), by Grandpappy »
Letter Re: Advice on Construction a Hiding Place for Precious Metals in a Home
Jim,
After being scared Schumerless
by the potential US economy meltdown and reading various related posts on SurvivalBlog,
I finally took the plunge and purchased
some junk silver coins. Since I plan to store these at home rather than a bank
safe deposit box (because of potential accessibility problems), would
you please recommend a strategy for storage. I'm assuming a small, somewhat
hidden, safe bolted to the floor/wall would be reasonable. Any recommendations?
Thanks, - Russ S.
JWR Replies: Unless you already own a large home vault--such
as a gun vault--I recommend that you construct one or more secret caches in
your house. If the weight is modest, you can simply hide a bag or box of silver
coins under the insulation in your attic. Keep in mind that it will probably
be resting on top of horizontal ceiling sheetrock, so keep the weight under
15 pounds!
To conceal up to 200 pounds of silver, you can make a Rawles "Through
The Looking Glass" Wall/Door
Cache.
Even someone with just rudimentary skills can make one of these "between
the studs" wall caches. These are simple to construct,
and will go un-noticed by all but the most astute and methodical burglars.
Here is how even someone inexperienced with carpentry can do so, in typical
North American wood frame houses--with modern sheetrocked walls: Pick out a
section
of sheetrocked
interior
partition wall in a bedroom where a wall-mounted mirror wouldn't look out
of place. Go to your local home "Big Box" store such as Home Depot
or Lowe's and buy a vertical mirror that is at least 16 inches wide, and
4+ feet tall. (Ideally, you should get one that is the the same width as
your wall's stud interval, so that the mirror mounting screws will attached
the
sheetrock into the studs. Such mirrors typically come with a set of L-shaped
mounting clips that attach to a wall or door with screws. Figure out where
any wiring might be running through the wall. Typically it will run horizontally,
about 1 foot up from the floor, parallel with your power outlets. Do not
pick a section of wall that is near a light switch, since vertical wires
may be running though those wall sections. Plan to mount mirror at least
6 inches above the wiring. Look for small indentations, puckers, or other
signs of nails attaching the sheetrock. These will typically be centered
either 18" or
24" apart. If you can't spot the nails or screws you can either buy
or borrow an inexpensive magnetic
stud finder--a little magnet-on-a-pivot gizmo that reacts when you pass
it over a nail head or drywall screw head. (A bit of judicious tapping
to hear pitch changes can also be helpful.) The nails will be driven into
vertical studs, and it is between two 2"x4" studs that you will
cut your cache hole.
It will
provide
you a caching space that is about 15" wide and 3-1/2" deep.
Once you've estimated where the studs are, drill some small exploratory
holes in the sheetrock, at a sharp angle. Probe
inside the hole with a length of coat hanger wire to confirm where the vertical
studs are located, and whether or not there are any horizontal 2"x4" fire
stop blocks. (Those are typically half way up each wall.) Then, with
a power jig saw or a SawzAll, cut a hole (or holes) to provide access
to the wall cache dead space. Leave at least 2 inches of sheetrock width around
the hole that will be
covered
by the mirror. Remove any insulation from the cache area, and vacuum out the
sheetrock dust. Place your valuables in the cache. If
there is substantial weight, do not rest it directly on top
of any wiring at the bottom of the cache. (You should first cut a support block
out of 2x4 block and screw it in place with drywall screws.) Then neatly mount
the
mirror over the hole, measuring carefully and/or using a level so that the
mirror will be mounted straight up and down. Accessing the cache will just
take a few minutes to remove the mirror mounting screws. (Or about 10 seconds
(rip!)
with a claw hammer if you need to Get Out of Dodge in a real hurry.) If you
need to access the cache frequently, you'll find that if the screws are screwed
only into sheetrock and not into studs behind, then the screw holes in the
sheetrock will become enlarged and the screws will eventually loosen. If that
happens, you can install anchor bolts behind most of the screws. (Remember,
I mentioned leaving at least a 2 inch overlap. You will need that width of
sheetrock to support the anchor bolts.) Oh, by the way, the same technique
can be used
to created a similar--albeit more shallow--cache inside a hollow core bedroom
door. One neat trick with a door cache is to only remove the top mirror
mounting brackets when you access the cache. With those removed and
the door slightly open you can simply slide the mirror up to reveal the cache
opening.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Three Letters Re: Providing Crucial Fats and Oils in Your Diet »
Letter Re: Ammunition Prices in the Future?
Sir:
I have pondered your recent posts about stocking up on ammo. I've decided
to spend $6,000--the same that I spent last year on storage food, a wheat grinder,
and heirloom gardening seeds--to buy some ammunition to squirrel away. That
will pretty well tap out all of my available cash. I'll mainly be buying
mil surplus rifle ammo (.223, 7.62x39 and .308) plus some civilian pistol
ammo--mostly
.45
auto,
for my
two Glock 21s
and my Glock 30. But I'm also taking
your advice from a post earlier this year and buying 300 rounds
of .40 S&W, even though I don't own any guns in that caliber--because
my local police department
issues Glock Model 22s [chambered in 40S&W.] I think having that ammo
may be great for bartering and as a way to 'make friends and influence people",
once the Schumer Strikes the Oscillating Blades.
My question to you sir, is, where is all the reasonably-priced ammo
hiding? My local gun shop charges near full-ticket retail, even
when I ask about ordering me some case lots. Are there any places on the
Internet
you can recommend? Thanks to You and Best Regards, Ray in Southern Arizona.
JWR Replies: I'm glad to hear that you bought your storage
food and seed first. I recommend: AIM
Surplus,
Cheaper
Than Dirt, Dan's
Ammo, J&G
Sales, Midway,
Ammunitionstore.com, Natchez
Shooter Supply,
and The
Sportsman's Guide. If you plan to buy $6,000 worth, it is probably worthwhile
for you to drive a 3/4 ton pickup truck up to Prescott, Arizona, to visit J&G
Sales. With
their
inventory, they can probably supply 2/3s of your needs. They
are
in
north-central Arizona. Paying
for
that
gasoline
will be
far less
expensive that paying for UPS shipping,
and it will also help you keep a low profile. (Neighbors might get curious when
they see 20+ large, very heavy
boxes
being
unloaded from a UPS truck in front of a suburban house.)
« Letter From David in Israel: On Bootlaces |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: What if The Schumer Doesn't Hit The Fan? - Reasons to Prepare Anyway, by MB
Hello Jim,
I'd like to respond to MB's article. In the
Securing Your Castle section, MB wrote:
"If you have studied survival even a little, then you are aware
that arming yourself ranks high on the list of recommendations. Perhaps some
of you share my reluctance to build an armory in my home. I have children,
and being married to someone who is strictly against guns makes security
a particularly difficult element in my survival preparations. While I recognize
security as an absolute must, I have reservations about keeping a device
designed to kill in my home. Ironically the reasons not to own a gun are
the very reasons why I feel I should own gun. The reasons are aged 2-11,
not including the Mrs. In a volatile scenario that could spiral out of control;
I would feel helpless without weapons to protect my family. All the stockpiling
of food and water will be futile if some thug can easily take it from you
(and maybe your lives with it). If you do decide to own a firearm (or firearms),
don’t flaunt it and please educate yourself and practice. Keep a chamber
or trigger lock in place and store the ammunition in a different location
if necessary."
Keeping a firearm with a trigger lock in place and ammunition stored in a different
location renders that firearm useless in my opinion. In the city, once there
is an unknown perceived noise in the house, the clock is ticking. You would
have to go and get your firearm, unlock it, go get the ammo and load the magazine.
If it is at night, reaction time to get out of bed and wake up enough to grasp
the situation is additional time that will depend on the person. You might
as well just go and greet your designated thug and let them in and save yourself
the structural damage.
City people have to deal with the constant propaganda that makes them rethink
the reason to have firearms in the first place where it's always about the
children and not about self defense. It reminds me of the book "Dial
911 and Die". Here are the numbers: Five seconds to your firearms
or five minutes until the clean-up crew arrives.
The solutions: Gun Safes, Educating your Family and Training.
Gun Safes keep children away from the firearms and keep you
within 5 seconds of having a loaded and round chambered firearm that is ready
to go. In larger houses, multiple locations are useful to keep one close by.
There are many types of handgun safes that can be located thought a house that
will keep children out. They should contain the gun and magazines or speed
clips preferably in a pouch to make easy to grab and clip on to whatever you
are wearing at the time. A holster would be handy to have adjacent to the safe
so you can have both hands free if needed. There are other wall-mount safes
for long guns and shotguns as well. I also know people who normally wear their
firearms while they are at home or at least when they answer the door.
Educating your Family is the most important thing. The safes
keeps young ones away from the firearms. When they are ready, they can be
introduced to what a firearm is, its uses and to not speak to others about
them besides immediate family members. The other major aspect is that they
can ask to see the firearms at any time they want. At that time they are
interested, they will listen and learn. I'll drop what I'm doing and allow
them to explore while teaching them further. This eliminates the mystery
and "forbidden fruit idea" that leads to most problems.
Training can be broken into two categories, firearms training
and planning for your location.
The successfully use of a firearm in self defense can be greatly enhanced by
training and practice. If you buy a firearm, don't get a false sense of security
now that you have one. It does no good without being able to properly use it.
Know the firearm you purchased. Read the manual, learn all the features and
know how to manipulate it. There are a number of basic firearm training courses
available from various organizations. If you don't take a course, go practice
with a knowledgeable friend. There are many resources available on the internet
as well.
You've got a firearm, you know how to use it and now how will you employ that
tool to your particular location? You wake up from a disturbing noise and now
you need to take action. What will you do? Where will you go? Where are the
children? If someone confronts me here and now and I miss, will I have a chance
to hit a family member in the next room? Looking at your location and developing
simple action plans will take the time consuming guess work out when you only
have time to react. Plan and practice that plan so when the time comes you
will naturally follow your plan without needing to think. Make the "what
if" scenarios fun for the whole family so if the time comes, your family
will be coordinated and have a greater chance to handle the threat. There are
numerous resources on the internet for thinking about scenarios as well. -
Paul.
« Letter Re: Canadian Retreat Locales |Main| Note from JWR: »
What if The Schumer Doesn't Hit The Fan? - Reasons to Prepare Anyway, by MB
As long as I can remember, I have felt that someday the comforts of a modern
American lifestyle would vanish, at least temporarily. So I have made small
mental preparations for some time now; keeping my mind and body fit and strong,
staying informed, dropping hints to the wife, etc. Recently, and mostly after
reading Patriots, I have a renewed interest in preserving my life and protecting
those I love.
After educating myself on the subject of survival, I felt, as I’m sure
many others have, very vulnerable and even overwhelmed. I needed to take action,
immediately. Many thoughts spring into one’s mind during these moments. “What
will I feed my children; oh man, water is essential; what about all those crazy
people in the city, I need a gun, I need several guns; I need to move to North
Dakota!” Sloooow down! These are daunting items. Once you quiet your
mind and restore some sense of calm (it may take a couple days), you realize
that you must be realistic. It’s not feasible for most of us to pack
up an arsenal and move to a remote retreat in the hills or forests of the upper
Midwest. We have jobs and responsibilities, relatives and friends; lives that
at least for the time being, limit our options. And there is also the feeling
that hundreds or even thousands of dollars spent on preparations could be wasted
if The Schumer doesn’t ever Hit The Fan. (Doubtful, but it does cross
one’s
mind) A sense of urgency is implied; however, a caution against panic is warranted.
It’s easy in this post 9/11 age to let fear control your life. Don’t!
Simply take comfort in the fact that doing something to prepare for various
scenarios, however big or small, will most importantly increase your odds of
survival in the worst of emergencies, but also increase your comfort in the
less dire situations and even improve your life now.
You Don’t Have to
Move to Idaho--Survival Mindset for City Folk
I wanted to write an article for people like myself who are in the beginning
stages of survival preparation. People on limited budgets, who may not live
on farms, or maybe have never served in the military or had experience with
guns. Those people who live in or near a city, particularly congested east
coast cities. I write for those city dwellers and suburbanites in less than
ideal regions; students, urban professionals, everyday people. However, it
can apply to just about anyone who is not already well “squared away”.
I will attempt to provide ideas on where to begin, how to prioritize and how
to prepare mentally and with limited monetary resources for a multitude of
events. I will try to focus on things that can be useful now and for a lifetime.
My intent is not to instruct on what exactly is needed for every particular
individual; there are more capable advisors for that. I aim to get people thinking
and to provide a more general approach to surviving the times.
Get Your Mind
Right
First and foremost is your mindset. Think about your values, your morals. What
is most important in your life? Who is most important to you? How far are you
willing to go to protect them? In the most serious situation, we would do anything,
right? Why let it come to that? There’s good reason to get motivated.
Put yourself and your family in the best possible position for survival now,
so you don’t have to act out of desperation later. Also, think about
what you spend your money on and where you spend it. Do you really need that
big screen plasma television? What are you teaching your children about spirituality,
health, money? Just as important, what are others teaching your children? You
see where I’m going here. It’s not all about beans, bullets and
Band-Aids. It’s about your mentality. Only the strongest-willed individuals
will make it through tough times, be it TEOTWAWKI,
high school, or simply life as an adult in the 21st century.
Beginning Logistics
Now think about tangible items to have on hand. Make a list. Just jot down
ideas, then categorize (based on cost or type) and prioritize later. Your location
and climate will impact your list. Set up your inventory and storage on varying
degrees of threat and length of time of crisis. For instance a blackout that
lasts 30 days vs. a full scale economic collapse. Will you be staying put or
escaping to a safer location? What criteria will you base your decision on?
What would you miss most if something tragic happened? Put yourself in that
situation. The obvious answers are food and more importantly, water. If you
are human, you already eat and drink water, so this is nothing new. You just
need to think about having more of it on hand. In turn, storage is needed.
We find room for other items; we can find room for potentially life saving
sustenance. Package enough easily transportable food for 30 days. A durable
plastic tote should work well. Then store enough for much longer periods of
time. Buy a little extra food with each grocery shopping trip and date it.
Not extra chips or TV dinners, get extra items such as dried fruit or granola
that will last for an extended period of time, without electricity. Buy in
bulk and incorporate raw grains into your diet. Start a garden. Not only will
you know how to prepare these foods now, you will be more accustomed to eating
them later, not to mention the health benefits. Think about buying a food dehydrator.
They are reasonably priced. Keep a few five gallon containers of water in
your garage, basement or crawlspace. If you live in an apartment, do you have
a
spare room or a patio? For long term situations, any amount of water that can
be conveniently stored in most homes will be consumed surprisingly fast. Think
about other sources and get a good water filter. Again, this is prudent to
have anyway. A [compact] portable filter might come in handy also. With both
food and water, as much as possible, use your storage as supplement, not a
main source.
Little by little set aside money and acquire items you will need.
Keep
an extra
supply of first aid items on hand. Don’t forget some of the less apparent
items like toilet paper, sanitation, batteries, tools, candles, medications
and fuel. Keep some spare 5 gallon containers of stabilized gas in your shed.
It’s not wasteful as it can be used in your vehicles at any
time. And with the rising gas prices it may prove to be a worthwhile investment.
Don’t forget to rotate [your stocks]. Consider buying a generator. In
a full scale crisis, drawing attention to yourself and home with a loud, light-producing
device is not going to be very smart, but when power goes out and the masses
aren’t yet rioting in the streets, a generator will be nice to have.
Get a portable model. Study maps and plan different routes to and from your
home. Keep an emergency kit in your car. This is by no means a complete list,
it’s designed to get you started. Yes, the preparations are abundant.
Don’t get overwhelmed into thinking you have to get it all at once. The
key is minimization. Minimize the chances that you will be taken by surprise,
wondering why you didn’t do something earlier. Start small and with things
you can use in everyday life. The wealth of available information on specifics
is immense. This web page is a great resource. It’s up to you to educate
yourself and determine exactly what and how much you will need.
Help Others
Help You
Working together will be to your advantage during crunch time. Find strength
in numbers. Seek out others who share your values and have skills you lack.
How can you help each other? Build relationships and share ideas. Educate others,
but be careful as you can imagine the funny looks you might get if you start
prophesying doomsday. And guess who’s doorstep they’ll be standing
on come crunch time. I am a firm believer that the more people around you that
are prepared, the better off all of us are. If your neighbors can take care
of themselves, then it’s more likely your preparations will be preserved
in the event of crisis. In short, at least fewer of your neighbors will be
knocking on your door the same day of an event.
Securing Your Castle
I’d like to take a moment to discuss security, specifically firearms.
If you have studied survival even a little, then you are aware that arming
yourself ranks high on the list of recommendations. Perhaps some of you share
my reluctance to build an armory in my home. I have children, and being married
to someone who is strictly against guns makes security a particularly difficult
element in my survival preparations. While I recognize security as an absolute
must, I have reservations about keeping a device designed to kill in my home.
Ironically the reasons not to own a gun are the very reasons why I feel I should
own gun. The reasons are aged 2-11, not including the Mrs. In a volatile scenario
that could spiral out of control; I would feel helpless without weapons to
protect my family. All the stockpiling of food and water will be futile if
some thug can easily take it from you (and maybe your lives with it). If you
do decide to own a firearm (or firearms), don’t flaunt it and please
educate yourself and practice. Keep a chamber or trigger lock in place and
store the
ammunition
in a different location if necessary. In addition, don’t rule out other
ways of defending yourself. Albeit, less formidable, they are less expensive.
These include pepper spray, knives, batons, stun guns and martial arts. I don’t
think I need to remind people that these are mostly ineffective against attackers
with guns, or even large groups of unarmed evil doers. However, they may prove
useful in that they are very portable and can be used in less dire emergencies.
Deterrence in the form of dogs, fencing, motion detection, alarm systems and
location should also be considered. Protection from those who intend to harm
is imperative and yet another item that is useful even today.
Back to Basics
Take an assessment of your skill sets. What knowledge do you posses that would
be of value in a crisis situation? Don’t worry, if needed, your survival
instincts will take hold, but some basic skills can make you an asset and will
help you survive. Develop and hone these skills now. Start simply; make your
own bread, catch your own fish, grow your own vegetables, prepare healthier,
less processed meals. I enjoy beer, I brew my own. It’s rewarding and
I’ve learned much from it. Learn basic plumbing, carpentry and electrical
skills. You don’t have to be a master mechanic, but any vehicle owner
should know the basics; how to change the oil, filters and spark plugs. Having
a skill can be just as valuable as having an inventory; you never leave home
without it and could earn you a spot in a group if needed. Maybe you are a
dog trainer or electronics engineer. Don’t forget your kids. Teach your
children to swim, hunt, split wood or sow a garden. It seems that all too often,
in our frenzied lifestyles, we focus all our energy on skills that will get
us fat paychecks and forget the simpler but more important things. Get back
to basics. Slow down. Simplify. If something isn’t adding positive value
to your life, eliminate it. Many preparedness items can be fun and done as
a family. Go camping, take hikes, etc. If you have kids, consider home schooling
them. Most importantly get to know your children; spend time with them.
It’s
Up to You
You can make self sufficiency a way of life without going “off the deep
end,” so to speak. Taking action will not only give you peace of mind,
a sort of insurance policy, but also can improve your life in the meantime.
Many corollary benefits will emerge. Here are some that come to mind: Less
reliance on outside institutions, money saved, healthier eating habits, time
spent with your family. Regardless of the future, you’ll be teaching
your children to be prepared, to think logically and independently and not
to have a lazy, consumerist attitude of entitlement that dominates our culture
today.
This writing isn’t packed full of technical how-to information, but I
sincerely hope it helps to serve those of you that may feel overwhelmed and
don’t know where to begin and to breathe hope into those who are obliged
to retain their current lives without major upheaval. There are many who see
the challenges involved with getting ready and are scared into doing nothing.
For one reason or another they go back to sleep, their head comfortably lodged
in the sand. Don’t be one of those people. Enjoy the time and blessings
you have, but be ready. An old proverb says “Trust in God, but tie up
your camel.” Just the same, pray for peace, but prepare for war.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Digging Tools Basics, by JN EMT »
Letter Re: Computers - A Cache of Spare Parts For Your Guns
Greetings,
As the British would say, it was one of those rare moments of 'serendipity,'
but I was watching "The Postman" the other night on cable
[television], and decided to field strip and clean a couple of rifles while
doing so. As I was reassembling
my CAR-15 in particular, I told my wife, as I charged the bolt - and felt everything
moving as it should in a rightly reassembled firearm - that, "guns are
a lot like computers these days - either you put them (back)
together the right way, or they simply won't work at
all."
The very next day, I was attempting to mount a brand new MTI lo-mount scope base
on my PTR-91, and sure enough, I stripped the threads on one of the tiny little
hex-head bolts that clamped it to the rifle. In mid-panic, over possibly ruining
a $155 mount, I suddenly remembered my own comment about "guns & computers," and
went downstairs to check my cabinet o' spare computer parts. Sure enough, I
found a tiny Phillips head bolt, that was long enough, and threaded perfectly,
to work on my mount! Problem solved - expensive mount, saved!
In a worst-case scenario - nuke strike with massive EMP -
most computers will be nothing more than over-sized paperweights anyway. But,
since all of them are
held together with a plethora of tiny, finely threaded bolts, nuts, and screws,
they can be a treasure trove of spare parts for mounting optics,
rails, and other rifle accessories, not to mention all the other uses you might
find, or even
dream up, while scrounging out an existence post-SHTF.
As I also wear eyeglasses, computers just might be the difference between being
terribly near-sighted, and
of little use to anyone, and being able to put my eyeglasses frames
and
arms
back
together!
In my "can't do without" bag, I have now added an empty medicine bottle full
of
assorted computer bolts, nuts, and screws, from my ample supply of spare
parts, to go alongside the jeweler's screwdriver set I also have in there. No
guarantee
that Lenscrafters will survive the apocalypse any better than any other business.
Extra pairs of glasses are nice; extra screws and screwdrivers to go along with
them,
are even better. - Bob McC.
JWR Replies: Thanks for that tip. BTW, as The
Memsahib can
attest, I am famous for scrounging hardware. Whenever any appliance here at
the ranch is beyond repair, I always
strip
it of any
usable fastener hardware, cooling fans,
lamps, lamp sockets, motors, batteries, battery holders, switches, wire, ribbon
cables, fuses, fuse holders, annunciators ("beepers" and bells),
and power cords. I've ve even bought "dead" appliances at garage
sales for 50 cents or a dollar, just to strip them for hardware and scrap sheet
metal.
As I often say: "These
things may come in handy
someday". I keep most of the parts in two large sets of well-labelled
military surplus metal divider drawers, down in the JASBORR.
OBTW, if you plan to do likewise, show great caution when working around capacitors
or power supply modules that could still be holding a charge!
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Reverse the Public School Brainwashing and Keep Your Kids Safe, by Captain Dave »
Letter Re: Lessons Learned from Hurricane Katrina and Indiscriminate Weapons Confiscation
Dear Jim and Family,
Some months ago, our president signed into law a bipartisan bill that protects
Americans from gun seizure during a disaster. In theory, every emergency worker
(including police and National Guard) knows they cannot take guns from
citizens, period. In theory. In practice its far more likely
that we can all expect: the worst case scenario. This is uncomfortable as
you have no idea if the cop down
the street
is honest or a bully who's taking guns because he can, or because he's been
ordered by by his boss, or a buddy on the force with plans. I have encountered
crooked cops. They really do exist, not just in movies. They do a real disservice
to honest cops and endanger lives but investigations are hampered by the code
of silence and Internal Affairs can only do so much without getting murdered
undercover.[JWR Adds: Thankfully, the vast majority of police
are honest and trustworthy.]
I'm wondering if your encounter with the police is about to make you a victim
or not leaves you with the unpleasant choice of either losing your ability
to
defend yourself during the most critical time or deciding
to be proactive and run the risk of dying for it, or even killing an honest
cop by mistake. Following Hurricane
Katrina, the Federal government and National Guard behaved in a shameful manner,
disarming people trying to protect themselves. The result is this law, which
probably won't be followed. How would you enforce it? Take them to court? If
you survive, great. But if you really needed the gun, why did you survive,
weakening your own case. If you really did need it you're too dead to sue.
When the cop says give me your gun what will you do? Do you have a backup?
Do you have an argument that will keep him from taking it? Does the cop know
or care that taking your gun during this disaster is a Federal crime? And will
he harm or imprison you for pointing it out? These are ugly questions, but
you had better think long and hard what your options are and what is the appropriate
response.
Best, - InyoKern
JWR Replies: You are correct that H.R.5441
has been signed into law, (becoming Public Law No: 109-295). So
it would be considered an
extrajurisdictional act for any officer to "temporarily or permanently
seize, or authorize seizure of, any firearm the possession of which is not
prohibited under Federal,
State,
or local law, other than for forfeiture in compliance with Federal law or as
evidence in a criminal investigation" during "a declared disaster." By
now, all sworn officers at all levels should have been briefed on this law,
and
its existence has surely been
added to the curricula of police academies. In most states, by exceeding
jurisdictional authority, officers shed their "Sovereign Immunity" from
prosecution and/or civil suit as individuals. (Up to a
$100,000 per Title 42, USC.) In many
states, sworn officers sued in this manner for damages
in their personal or individual
capacities are classed as "persons" (rather that state officials).
See: Hafer v. Melo, S.Ct., 112 S.Ct. 358, (19, 116 L.Ed.2d 301 91). And
in many states, by doing so they even put themselves in the same category as
a common criminal.
To wit, extrajurisdictional seizure of property constitutes
common theft. (Technically, you would be able to place an
officer under citizen's arrest. But I wonder what circumstances would allow
you to safely do so.)
The wise course of action during a disaster is to studiously avoid confrontations with
anyone in law enforcement that is exceeding their authority. And, if you are
unfortunate and do get your guns seized, then have a backup set
of guns cached nearby. They can't take what they can't find. BTW, this is
just another example of the value of redundant logistics. Don't be
belligerent or
come to blows over this issue. Worry about recourse in the courts later.
In the short
term,
your
key responsibility is to protect your family members and see them safely through
the crisis. And you can't do that if you are behind bars.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Weather Forecasting the Old-Fashioned Way, an Important Skill for WTSHTF »
Letter Re: Lessons Learned from Hurricane Katrina and Indiscriminate Weapons Confiscation
Dear Mr. Rawles,
First off, I would like to thank you for writing the novel "Patriots" and
starting SurvivalBlog. My dad sent me your book in the mail and told me to
read it. Being a fan of Tom
Brown-ish survival literature, I decided to give
it a try. I read it in one night, starting at about 8 pm and finishing at 3
in the morning. Truly, my world view has changed. I have immediately started
making preparations---getting my Bug Out Bag together, my Bug Out Routes planned
and starting to practice some of the skills sets I've let fall by the wayside
recently.
I am a full time college student and collegiate cross country and track runner
at a school in the great state of Tennessee, but have had the benefit of being
raised in a preparedness oriented family in a
southwestern region of rural Montana. I was at school when [Hurricane] Katrina
hit and remember the close-to-home impact it had on many of my friends who
lived in the New Orleans area. Our school sent relief teams to New Orleans
immediately afterwards, with shipments of food and water. At the time, my perception
of the Katrina disaster was largely shaped by the major media
outlets. A humanitarian crisis it surely was, but I never realized the uglier
side of the story until recently.
It seems that disasters and emergencies bring out the best and the worst in
people. Having read extensively many of the SurvivalBlog entries and perused
the Internet for stories and first-hand accounts of surviving the Katrina disaster,
I discovered that the population of New Orleans could be broken down into four "classes" of
people during the evacuation/hurricane/post-disaster crisis.
The first class of people was composed of a small group of individuals and
families who had plenty of food, water and protection stored away to either
weather the storm, or to travel to a safer location without sacrificing their
safety.
The second class of people was composed of a larger section of the populace
who decided to leave New Orleans or evacuate their area and had no food, water
or self-protection supplies built up before-hand. These became the highway
refugees, or the refugees huddled in the Superdome. Some were successful in
escaping safely, many were not.
The third class of people was composed of people who decided to stay in New
Orleans, without the necessary preparations, and planned on either the government
helping them or on obtaining supplies from their vacant neighbor's homes and
Wal-Mart. These were looters, thieves and murderers.
The fourth class of people was composed of law enforcement and National Guardsmen
who stayed in New Orleans to try and maintain order. They were usually not
successful.
In my analysis, everyone in the first class of people were prepared to handle
whatever came their way. They were good, hearty men and women, with respect
for God and a practical view of the world. In order to survive, they just needed
to minimize contact with all three of the
other classes of people, namely the refugees, the looters and the police.
The refugees were desperate people, some willing to kill for gasoline so that
they could rescue family members. While not necessarily bad people, they were
victims of the circumstances. Avoidance of these people was relatively easy,
as long as one stayed off of main highways and out of refugee concentration
areas. One reader posted a letter on this blog about his experience
with his dog and pickup filled with gas-cans on his way back to secure his
gun store. The looters were also desperate, but not necessarily refugees. They
weren't fleeing, but were actively preying on people and businesses to
sustain themselves. These people were a lot like the "Mutant Zombie Bikers"
[often mentioned by SurvivalBlog readers]. Mostly active in New Orleans, these
looters were to be feared and avoided mostly by the prepared and self-sufficient
people.
The police were able to direct traffic and enforce the law in the early stages
of the disaster, but by the time traffic spilled out into the opposing lanes
and looters really started opening up on their rampage,
they were relatively helpless. One thing that much of the public is not aware
of is the indiscriminate"martial law" tactics undertaken by
many police/SWAT and National Guardsmen during and after the evacuation. While
their actions in arresting and confiscating weapons may have been justified
in trying to control the looting problem, many honest, prepared men and women
who were "holding the fort" had their homes invaded, searched and
any and all weapons confiscated. In one of the parishes near New Orleans, the
police used boats to pull over riverine traffic and search and confiscate any
weapons found, often without providing receipts for the weapons confiscated.
Obviously, for a prepared survivalist who was protecting their property, Bugging
Out, or trying to provide humanitarian/rescue assistance, this was a major problem.
After watching this
short documentary on 2nd Amendment violations in [the aftermath of Hurricane]
Katrina,
which every law-abiding American owes it to themselves to watch, I have realized
that in a TEOTWAWKI or near-TEOTWAWKI type disaster, even law enforcement can
be more of hindrance than a help. The indiscriminate firearm confiscations
that occurred in the wake of Katrina are very worrisome indeed.
In planning my Bug-Out-Plan (with multiple, redundant routes...one by foot
if need be: yes, all 2,000 miles of it back home to Montana), I fully intend
to
avoid law enforcement like the plague. As [the] Doug Carlton [character] said
in Patriots, "Roads
are for people who like to get ambushed." Similarly, getting searched by the
police in a TEOTWAWKI type situation is something you definitely want to avoid.
There may be cops out there with their heads screwed on straight who can discern
an honest citizen from a looter, but the risk of running into a hotshot and
losing the means of protecting myself is too great.
I hope all other preparedness men and women take this into account when planning.
Oh, and never
become a refugee and confine yourself to a refugee camp. - R.D. from southern
Tennessee
JWR Replies: The troublemakers in New Orleans came from many
races, and surprisingly from both lower class and the lower middle class. It
is difficult to stereotype the "looters" when based on the archived
news footage it is clear that they represented a fairly wide cross-section
of the New Orleans
populace. Safe distance from major population centers is the key to survival
during a widespread disaster. Fewer people means fewer problems. Most of the
armed confrontations will take place in the big cities. Yes, lives will be
lost far and wide WTSHTF, but the vast majority of the violence will
be in the cities.
« Letter Re: "The Rift" by Walter J. Williams |Main| Letter Re: Firearms Questions from a Distaff Newbie »
Letter Re: 2nd Annual Bug-Out Drill at Tiger Valley in Texas
James,
I started reading SurvivalBlog this year after a friend told me to check
out the site and it has been a great resource. I had a couple of thing
that might be of interest to everyone.
First is the 2nd
annual Bug-out drill at Tiger Valley in Texas. Tiger Valley will host
its second annual Bug Out Drill, September 29, 2007. We will run the same
distance as last year, 15 miles, but the physical challenges
will be tougher. For those who didn't attend the last event, the idea for
this was spawned from reading the survival forum. I, like a lot of people
don't believe that something does what it claims without a test; hence, the
But Out Drill was born.
As last year the challenge was to move and recover family members who are
a distance away. For the sake of argument an EMP has
disabled all vehicles, I know some of you have spare parts wrapped in foil,
but we have to keep
this on an even keel. That means you have to travel the entire route on
foot, no bikes, 4-wheelers Gurkhas or Donkeys allowed on the course. You
must carry everything you need for the event on your person. We will have
a hydration station that you can top off water during the event.
Last years event had 20 physical challenges, everything from having to cut
through chain link fence to triage a tactical mannequin. This year I plan
on making some of the challenges technically and physically more challenging.
I won't go into detail on the plans but nothing is off the table.
We had 27 hard-core contestants compete last year. Everyone made a great
effort, and from the feedback, learned a lot from the experience. As the
concept stated last year, you don't have to complete each event. If the event
is to challenging, you can bypass it and take the penalty. Remember, this
event is designed to test you and your equipment, not kill you. We don't
want to run those off who might be intimidated by some events.
I need some feedback from you guys on one area. I thought it might be good
to require those attending to camp out on Friday night. Pitch whatever survival
tent you have and take off in the morning. This idea is still up for grabs
so let me know what you think.
The price for the event will be the same as last year, $150. I will start
getting prizes as soon as I get back from this class in Waco.
The other item of interest is medical training information from Medical
Corps.
This organization has a substantial amount of information that I'm currently
digesting. {Meanwhile,] OperationalMedicine.org has
downloadable videos on various procedures like "How to Suture a
Wound" that can supplement or help prepare for classes. It could also
be the only training available to people without the means to attend classes.
Thanks, - Paul in Texas
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Letter Re: Greenspan, Gold, and the Safe Store of Value
Dear Mr. Rawles,
Regarding the use of gold as a store of value, it's important to realize that
gold often functions as a fiat currency. It does have intrinsic value for
jewelry, electronics, rust-proofing, and some chemistry applications but
the vast majority of its value comes from the shared expectation that people
will accept it as being valuable in the future. The only difference from
fiat dollars is that it's harder - but not impossible - to increase or decrease
the gold monetary supply, and that supply isn't controlled by any government.
In a disaster situation things get even worse, because if the lights are out
you probably don't need gold for jewelry, electronics, or chemistry, and there
are less conspicuous ways to rust-proof things than to gold plate them. The
only significant value of gold in that situation will be the
expectation that others will value it in the future - it will be a pure fiat
currency. Contrast
that to prison currencies like cigarettes, which hold truly intrinsic value
but are still used as money for trading.
I'm not saying that it definitely won't be useful - fiat currencies have worked
fairly well since the late 1960s and there's no reason to believe that gold
cannot function as an unregulated fiat currency. However, all the preparedness
sites I've read appear to see gold as having intrinsic value, where in fact
only usable items and resources have truly intrinsic value. (Food, ammo, coal,
whatever)
I know personally that given the choice between trading MREs for gold versus
trading for bullets, I'd have a heck of a lot more use for the bullets - regardless
of now or after a crash.
Thank you for the time you spend maintaining your site. When my own personal
finances aren't so dire I certainly intend to buy your books. Sincerely, -
Daniel
JWR Replies: I agree that gold will have only marginal utility
for barter during an economic
collapse. It will only come into its own in the recovery phase. Gold can act
as a "time
machine",
preserving your buying power from now until the far side of a currency collapse.
(When it presumably could be converted into a new, stable currency.) But don't
expect it to do you much good in the middle of a crisis. (You are right that
common caliber ammunition will be a preferred barter item.) I 've always considered
silver preferable to gold for barter, for the reasons outlined
in my novel "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse"--most notably that gold coins
are too compact a form of wealth for efficient barter. Silver dimes and quarters
are much more practical.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Advice on Engine Oil for Motorcycles »
Letter Re: Hand Tools--Their Importance, and Sources
Mr. Rawles:
In yesterday's blog, you mentioned that bolt cutters are important
to have available. This reminds me of something that my father always taught
me: There
is no such thing as "wasting" money on tools. With maybe a few exceptions,
you can never have too many [tools], because you can use the extra ones as
barterables or to pass on to your kids. A lot of things can be improvised,
but proper
tools can't [be improvised]. As a prepper,
I have a big assortment of tools, mostly hand type. I do have some
power
[tools],
but
I
consider those
secondary because if there's ever a long term the-end-of-it-all kaflooey, you
can't rely on grid power and the number of people with windmill, solar, or
waterwheel
power
will be few and far between. So I mainly buy 19th Century-style tools. Yup, a
big Makita
battery pack power drill is nice, but my old reliable bit-and-brace
runs forever on muscle power.
All SurvivalBlog-oriented families ought
to buy a big assortment of hand tools [in all categories]: carpentry,
metalsmithing, farrier, gardening, auto-mechanical, pipe threading/plumbing,
pipe bending,
and so forth. Get the basics first, like hammers, chisels, screwdrivers,
pliers, tin snips, files, pipe wrenches (several sizes), open-and closed-ended
wrenches, socket wrenches,
hand saws, and such. For high-stress tools like your wrenches and socket
[set]s, stick with
buying just the
best
[quality] name brand
tools:
Craftsmen
and Snap-on.
After
you have the basic tools, move on to getting specialized tools that most of
your neighbors won't have. These will make you the "go to" guy
in The Big Crunch. These specialized
tools are things like big Stilson wrenches, bolt cutters, tubing benders,
planes, Surforms, an old-fashioned blow torch, an oxy-ac cutting/welding
rig, big 2-man saws, digging bars, pulleys/hoists/snatch blocks, oversize wrecking
bars, post hole diggers, and
an
so-on. In your novel ["Patriots"]
you talked about Hi-Lift Jacks and [ratchet cable hoist] come-alongs. I'm
glad
you did, because those are both "must
haves." (They have a gazillion uses.) Buy a pair of each, plus rebuild
kits.
For anything that wears out quickly,
breaks, or that gets used up, buy lots
of spares--like hacksaw
blades,
linoleum/box
cutter
knife blades, tubing cutter blades, the smaller-sized drill bits, [welding]
gasses,
and
welding rod. You gotta think things through: What will people run out of in
one year? In five years? Any of those things are a "must" to stock up on--both
for you, your friends, and for bartering.
Beyond that, you should have a full set of tools for
any home business that you are planning to run to earn a living in TEOTWAWKI.
So if you plan to be a cabinet maker, you need a full set of carpentry tools.
If you plan to do generator repair, you need a full set of those tools. If
you plan to be a gunsmith/armorer, you need a full set of those tools, and
so forth.
My favorite places to buy tools by mail/online are Northern
Tool and Lehman's (the
Amish store, in Ohio.) Some auto-mechanics tools that are hard to find locally
you can get through JC
Whitney or AutoAnything.com
.
When deployed [overseas], a lot of us bought knives and Leatherman tools
from US
Cav[alry] Store
.
I saw on one of your pages you have links to Hechinger
Hardware
and Boater's
World who
I've also done some biz with. Oh, and I should warn everybody: watch out
for Harbor Freight.
Most of their tools are Chinese cr*p. A lot of cheap castings that break,
plus mostly they are made with slave labor.
Thanks for the fantastic blog, Jim. I just started reading the
blog again after being away for a 14 month deployment in the Sandbox. I was
blown away by how much useful stuff you posted while I was gone. The Archives are
a-maaaazing!
As of last week, I became a 10
Cent Challenge member. What a small price to pay for so much! I encourage
others to do same-same. Be Ready, Be Able, and Check Six, - G.T.C.
JWR Adds: I like your "19th Century" approach to tools. That
is entirely appropriate for the circumstances that we envision. And your assertion
that "there is no such thing as 'wasting' money on tools" is sage advice.
Proper sharpening,
oiling, and storage are crucial for giving your tools multi-generational
longevity. This
is particularly
important
in
damp climates.
Keep tools well-oiled. Depending on your climate, you might need tool
chests with tight-fitting lids and plenty of silica
gel. If you have any tools
that are rusty, evaluate their condition. Minor rust can be removed with a
wire wheel. But if any tools are badly rusted, consider either paying to get
them
bead blasted,
or if need be, replacing them completely. Why? Because
leaving
one rusty tool in contact with your other tools that are in good condition
will encourage"sympathetic"
rusting, and eventually ruin many more.OBTW, bead
blasting is good potential
part-time home business.If you have a side yard available to dedicate to it.
(It is a bit messy.) You could even carry on this business post-Schumer if
you have a generator an/or a large alternative power system.
« Letter Re: Advice on Buying Silver Dollars for Barter |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Confusion About Ban Markings on Rifle Magazines
Mr. Rawles:
I was at a gun show last weekend, stocking up on ammo and magazines. A dealer
had some original [Ruger] Mini-14 magazines (made at the factory, in white
boxes)
that
were
marked "restricted
for
law enforcement use.." or somesuch, stamped right into the body of the magazine.
I
also
saw
some
Beretta
M92
magazines with a whole bunch of the same kind of "thou shalt not..." small
print. I
thought that the [Federal] magazine ban had expired. I'm confused here. Could
I
get
in
trouble
with
my
local
police
if
I buy
magazines
with these marks? Thanks, - R.R.
JWR Replies: You aren't the first one to ask me this. The
U.S. Federal ban did indeed expire in September of 2004. (It expired
because of a 10 year "sunset clause.") A
letter from the ATF confirms that you can disregard any ban markings on magazines.
The only exception would be state or local laws, that can
vary. (The state of New York, for example has its own ban that continues to
make ownership of post-9/94
production high capacity magazines illegal.)
OBTW, there are also still some manufacturer's restrictive
sales policies to contend with. Ruger is one of the most notorious
for this. They started restricting their dealers several years before the
1994 ban
was enacted. But thankfully these sales policies do not cary any force of law.
There are lots of distributors that flaunt them and sell outside of law enforcement
channels. I suppose that the worst that could happen is that the distributor
could lose their "factory
authorized dealer" status and lose their special distributor pricing
incentives.
With all that said, I need to repeat something I've mentioned before. There
is a threat on the horizon: Beware of pending congressional bill, H.R.
1022--the worst piece of proposed federal gun legislation
introduced since 1968. Paragraph (L)
is the dangerous catch-all that would make this new law much,
much worse than the 1994-to-2004 "assault weapons" ban. That
paragraph leaves the determination of what constitutes an "Assault
Weapons" up
to the arbitrary whim of the Attorney General (AG)--a political appointee.
The real weasel phrase in paragraph (L) is
"...and a firearm shall not be determined to be particularly suitable
for sporting purposes solely because the firearm is suitable
for use in a sporting event." That phrase is the "back door" that
they leave open for banning M1As and
virtually any other model that the AG deems
sufficiently ugly or "evil" looking. The NRA warns
us that this law would also "begin
backdoor registration of guns, by requiring private sales of banned
guns, frames,
receivers
and parts
to be conducted through licensed dealers." In case this law ever
morphs into a more draconian
mandatory registration or confiscation law,
I recommend that all American "black gun" gun owners look
seriously
at
buying
a few "sporting" semi-auto models
such as a Valmet Hunter, Galil Hadar, HK SL6
(or 660), SL7 (or 770). Also consider FN-49s, which have a fixed 10
round magazine and no
pistol grip. Ditto for M1
Garands, which use a 8 round en bloc clip.
You should also show foresight and look beyond this
particular piece of pending legislation. In the event of eventual "worst
case" legislation--e.g. universal
registration or confiscation of all
modern
firearms--you
should
hedge your bets by
buying a few pre-1899 cartridge guns. (Such as those sold by The
Pre-1899 Specialist.)
The only saving graces of the proposed ban are
that it only affects new manufacture and
importation. That
still leaves a lot of existing ("grandfathered")
guns and full capacity magazines in circulation.
If it passes, I predict that this law's effect will be much like the
1986 machinegun freeze.
And
you've
seen what has happened
to the prices of Class 3 guns. The law of supply and demand
is inescapable. Prices went up a lot during the 1994-to-2004
Federal ban. This time, prices will surely skyrocket even more, since
this is a much wider-reaching law and there will be the public perception
that the ban will be permanent. My advice: Stock up, especially on
magazines. Buy at least a dozen for
each of
your
guns.
Buy hundreds,
if you have some extra cash to invest. Again, based on the experience
of the 1994-2004 ban and the 1986 Federal machinegun "freeze", I
expect magazine prices to at least triple.
If you can, buy lots of extras, even for models that you don't own,
to
use for barter.
Buy a mix of mostly
commonplace
magazines (like HK91, FAL,
and AR,
and M14),
and a few exotic ones (like Glock
33 round, Galil, SIG,
Valmet, et cetera.)
There may come a day when practically no amount of cash will
buy you a pre-ban detachable magazine, but trades will
still be considered.
Prices are still reasonable, because the full implications of this
pending legislation have not yet registered with average American
gun owner. For example, the last that I heard,
TAPCO was still
selling alloy 20 round HK91 magazines
(that also fit CETMEs)
at 50 pieces for
$70.
I think that in a couple of years such prices will seem like a
dream. BTW,
be sure to buy only factory original or original military contract
magazines.
Avoid all
of the
after-market junk.
The only other suggestion that I can make is: call, e-mail,
and FAX your congressman frequently about this bill or any similar
legislation. H.R. 1022 is blatantly
unconstitutional legislation! And any of you that are NRA members should
also contact the NRA and urge them to "hold the line" on this legislation. There
is
no "middle ground" or room for compromise.
My other oft-repeated advice, is: stock up on
magazines now. Consider buying a lifetime supply for you
and your children. Someday you may
be glad that you did.
« Letter Re: Mercenaries a Post-TEOTWAWKI Threat |Main| Note from JWR: »
Reader Poll Results: Your TEOTWAWKI Resume -- 100 Words and 100 Pounds
Some of these stretched the 100 word limit. (I skipped posting one that rambled
on far
beyond the limit.) The poll's premise in a nutshell: "If
someday you went to the gates of a survival community post-TEOTWAWKI and
pleaded the case for why you should be let past the barricades and armed guards
to become a valuable working member of the group, would you get voted in? Taken
objectively, would you vote yourself in?"
I am a shoe maker (not just a repairman) can repair saddles tan leather have
done ranch work mechanics weld gardening skills set a broken bone stitch up
a bad wound can bake bread etc, shooting skills need work only 5.5 MOA on AQT.
Can milk a cow make butter some basic carpentry skills can use a wood lave
make one if needed to know how to set up wind / water power to a shop or mill
make
some one laugh when things are bad can teach can also learn.know how to adapt
over come make things work specialization is for insects.
Some limits to work: mild back problems cannot do a lot of over head work.
1 CETME rifle with 12 mags, ALICE pack, compressed MREs, 1 folding shovel camo
nylon rope water filtering canteen extra canteen freeze dried canned soup 1
empty
small can rubbing alcohol cotton balls (cheap cook stove) 1 cooking kit 1 med
kit 1 multi tool 1 roll toilet paper 1 wash cloth 2 tooth brushes tooth paste
1 belt with bayonet for CETME one pocket knife canteen & pouch cleaning
kit for rifle and butt pack 2 mag pouches fishing line and hooks matches 4
Bic
lighters 1 Iver Johnson 5 shot .38 S&W revolver 36 rounds of ammo, Flecktarn
camo pants and shirt vest 1 light weight sleeping bag wool socks and
a
spare pair sturdy boots, Carthart coat tan 1 pocket size bible etc,,
--
Many years' experience in:
Primitive Skills:
*edible and medicinal native plants
*cordage and rope making
*hide tanning
*bow and arrow making
*bow hunting
Contemporary Skills:
*organic gardener
*orchard (fruit and olive)
*beekeeper
*firearms use
Mid-50's, good shape for age, 6'4", 225#. Wife, mid 50's, 5'10", 150#
(who shares many of the above skills, plus expert at canning/freezing, quilting,
tatting, making clothes and moccasins).
Both have a sense of humor and aren't afraid to work.
In packs, besides personal gear:
*heirloom seeds
*needles
*lighters
Carrying:
*one .308 MBR, one .223, with magazines and ammo
*two .45 Governments
--
Age 25, weight 160, excellent health, single. Engineer, engine mechanic, builder,
jack of all trades. Trained and competitive marksman. Skilled teacher. Tolerant,
thick skinned, sense of humor. Introvert, not loner. Schooled in college, educated
in real life. History buff and cook.
Competent with photovoltaics, backhoes, generators, concrete, gardens, propane
systems, AC and DC electricity, firearms, computers, welding.
Most importantly: not a prima donna, armchair commando, or busybody.
Equipment includes rifle, pistol, small amount of ammo, soft body armor and
binoculars.
--
Age: Near 60. Can still
see well enough, without glasses, to shoot back.
Old, tired, wore out. Been around the third world several times. (South America,
South Seas, East Asia) Can't lift a third my own weight. Don't eat much. Know
how to do just about anything.
Will arrive with 30 Lbs water, 30 Lbs freeze dried food, Ruger Mini 14, S&W
659, 100 rds for each, a few old books. and 50+ years usable knowledge. That
about 100 pounds? (Worst case here. Actually, I would attempt to bring my entire
robotics shop. Attempt, I said! )
Skills: Artificer. If you can picture it, I can make it. Make a windmill from
a starter motor. Make my own tools as I need 'em. Bend railroad rail with no
more than an axe and 6 young men for the bull work. Machinist, electrician,
carpenter, stone layer, robotics engineer .
--
Age 25. Ex-military.
Trained extensively in: Perimeter reconnaissance,
Land-navigation.
Instructor of: full-spectrum warfare, defensive fighting positions, combat
operations.
Expert marksmen: M16A2, M4A1 (GUU-5/P), M9. Expert in FN-FAL,
M1A/M14, AKM, M16/AR-15 Family, 1911-A1, M9, CZ-75. Proficient with many other
firearms.
20/15 vision. Reloading/Gunsmith hobbyist.
Physically/Mentally Fit.
Pragmatic/Realist/Professional.
Equipped: FAL Carbine (18"bbl). Custom 1911A1. PASGT Kevlar Helmet/Vest. Boots/Socks. Woodland BDUs.
Custom LBE: Seven 30rd FAL Mags(210rds). Eight 8rd 1911-1 Mags( 64rds). Two 1-quart Canteens (Full). Multi-tool.
Medium ALICE pack: Five 20rd FAL mags (empty),
Two SA Battlepacks (280rds). Two Boxes .45ACP (100rds).
First-Aid Kit. Extra BDUs (1 set). Cans of Soup (5). Mess
Kit. Local Map/Compass.
--
Phd/MBA expert (37) on alternative energy and appropriate technology. Tool
maker and builder/manufacturer/processor of useful post-TEOTWAWKI machines,
trade goods, and alcohol (own BATF-licensed alcohol fuel still). Russian MBA
wife (35) survived fall of Soviet Union and 1998 crisis. 4 yo and 10 mo daughters.
Home machine shop, tools, anvil, forge, ethanol still, large printed alternative
energy / appropriate technology / engineering / survival library, and inventory
of preparation items greatly exceed the 100 lb per person limit but would be
worthy of a group salvage/recovery mission. G.O.O.D. bags contain standard
items recommended by Rawles, et al. Additional personally carried gear would
include M1A w/ Leupold scope, AR-15 with trijicon night sites, Glock 21 (45ACP)
with Trijicon night sites, Berkey water filter, laptop with large collection
(>500 books) of appropriate energy and appropriate technology books on CD,
Robinson curriculum on CDs for home schooling kids, ten 15"x15" fresnel
lenses capable of starting fires in 30 seconds, disassembled 2" diameter
alcohol still column with supply of vapor locks and 1 lb of ethanol yeast,
and a few of my more portable tools (blacksmith hammer, hardy, & gloves;
measurement tools; multimeter; temperature measure).
--
48 y/o 6ft 180lb male – good health
- Can walk 20 mi/day in full gear
- “Rifleman” with .308 MBR
- Doctor (emergency medicine and minor surgery)
- Gunsmith and reloader
- Cook
Backpack (40 lbs)
Sleeping bag/tarp
(2) BDUs & wool socks
Rain gear
Soap/camp towel/toothbrush
Food bars for 1 week
Water filter/bottle
Cookset/Trioxane tabs
Compass/map
Small survival kit (Fishhooks, matches, snares, etc)
AR-7 and 200 rounds
Web gear (35 lbs)
Knife
First aid/trauma kit
G23 + 2 mags (51 rounds)
8 mags .308 (150 rounds)
HK91
Barter/buy-in: (25 lbs)
Minor surgical set
Sutures/dressings
Local anesthetic/syringes
2000 doses various oral antibiotics and pain meds!
--
I feel I would be a great asset to your community. I am a seventh degree black
belt in American freestyle combatives and I could easily teach your people
the skills to handle themselves in this perilous time. I also have an extensive
background in firearms handling,gunsmithing and reloading. My real expertise
thought is as a meat butcher. I can literally take a beef ( or any wild or
domestic animal) from the field to the table. I bring with me a full set of
cutlery tools, including saws,steels and several knives. I also carry a AR-15
w/8-20 round, loaded mags. A Glock 19 w/mags, and a Rem 870 tactically modified.
I have a full set of ultralight camping gear including, freeze dried food,tent,
sleeping bag,etc. My loyalties are to God, Country, and my brothers at arms.
--
repaired furniture
a little basic farm work(irrigation, pick rock)
assembled some field sprayers
signalman
roofing
painting
inventory control/purchasing
drafting
some hunting
a lot of fishing
a lot of target shooting
cashier(a lot)
lube and oil cars
janitor
built 40 wood tables for an assembly line
sorted recycled paper
stock shelves
gas station attendant
a little gardening(corn,peas,onions)
unarmed watch
yard work(mowing, weeding)
sandwich/donut driver
some bow and arrow
some encrima [Philippine stick fighting martial art]
some cooking
printers helper
some CPR
--
Male, 38, 160 pounds. Reasonable shape.
Skills:
Suturing, minor surgery, advanced airway management, cautery, fractures, casting,
NBC treatment, tooth extraction and making dental fillings. 2 home births.
Pistol. Morse code.
Supplies:
Sutures, antibiotics, casting supplies, complete surgery tools and dental extraction
set.
.45, scoped M21 sniper rifle plus ammo. Field scope, rangefinder. Level 4 bulletproof
vest, helmet, FRS radios.
Water filter, water, food, tent, sleeping pads and bags, heirloom seeds.
Two boys, 7 and 9 and wife. All with level 3a vests. Kids with .22 rifles and
ammo. Wife with 9mm, AR-15 and ammo. Knows some gardening. Kids learning morse
code.
--
Strengths-
Have excellent interpersonal/negotiation skills
Have made a sufficient study of military history/combat tactics/military strategy
Maintain a vegetable garden/fruit trees
Have studied/used survival techniques in N.A. and C.A.
Have knowledge of indigenous edible plants/animals in N.A. and C.A.
Have skill-at-arms on US/ComBloc small arms
Am expert in usage of map and compass
Have field grade(ditch) medical skills
Maintain personal combatives skills
Can forage and improvise like nobody’s business
Have seen the elephant
Weaknesses –
No livestock husbandry experience
Not a carpenter
Middle aged
Average driving skills
Probable TEOTWAWKI employment:
Retreat security
Weapons maintenance and training
Strategic Planning and Implementation
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Reader Poll: Your TEOTWAWKI Resume -- 100 Words and 100 Pounds »
Letter Re: Advice for a Preparedness-Minded ROTC Cadet
Hi,
I appreciate your advice. Here is my situation: I attend college full time
in a post-industrial [Eastern United States] city that has had a 50% population
decline in 30 years. Most people here are on welfare, and the largest employers
are prisons. I am in a bit of a predicament because I only make about $6,000
per year, so I cannot really afford to spend much on supplies. My goal if
things go downhill is to do a ruck march (assuming EMP,
otherwise I would drive) with my ROTC-issued
[TA-50]
equipment to my family's summer home in farm country on a lake. The home
is located about 40 miles from where I go to school. Going home is not feasible
as I live in Massachusetts which would take a full tank of gas, and is entirely
highway and there are several choke points, including driving through Albany,
Springfield, Worcester, and into the high-density suburbs.
At school, one of my best friends is also into survivalism and he also has
experience. We share the same goals and are both Baptist. Additionally, we
are both known on campus as people who have everything, tools, water, food,
etc. which means that if there was a situation, we would likely be inundated
with requests from others to help us. We keep a small, verbal list of people
we would accept, and keep it to five people.
What would you recommend I do in this situation? If you need more information,
please do not hesitate to ask. Thanks, - Sam
JWR Replies: I recommend that you form a survival
retreat group. That is exactly what I did 25 years ago, when I was
an Army ROTC cadet. Stock your retreat as best as you can, given your limited
budget. Prioritize your purchasing. Water purification
and food storage should be at the top of your list. Set group standards for
communications gear
and
guns.
For short range tactical coordination,
I recommend the modestly
priced MURS transceivers,
since they use a little-used band. This is particularly important in the signal-dense
northeastern United States, where using CB frequencies
would be almost impossible WTSHTF. For advice on firearms selection, see my Survival
Guns web page, and my novel "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse".
Be very selective
about who you bring into your group. Unlike
building a group based on an extended family,
you can
be
choosy.
Be dispassionate in choosing new group members. Evaluate each candidate on
their stability, motivation, and their mix of skills. Friendship is a great
thing,
but the guy
or gal who
is presently your dormitory buddy may not be your best choice for a survival
group member. Look at their weight, health, and physical fitness. Consider
their religious background. Are they moral and trustworthy? Are they intelligent
and adaptable? Do they have valuable skills? Are they hard working or will
they just be "talkers" or "strap hangers"? Avoid people
with extremist views or anyone that suggests making any preparations that are
illegal. Ask
yourself the
key question:
Am I willing to trust my life to this individual? If any candidates don't pass
muster,
then keep
looking.
In the long term, try to develop a retreat that is in a less densely populated
region.
When you
graduate,
direct
your
job search--assuming that you will be a reserve officer--to
a
region that is suitable for self-sufficient retreats. (For
details, see my Retreat
Areas web page and my book Rawles
on Retreats and Relocation.) Odds are the group that you form
in college will have a considerably different composition five or six
years from now,
once your
friends change locales to pursue careers. In fact, depending
on where you end up, you may be teamed with an entirely different group
of people.
If you are destined to go on active duty, then tailor your "dream
sheet" of preferred duty assignments (after OBC)
to posts that are in the western U.S. (You didn't
mention if you had been branch selected
yet.
That
could make
a
big difference
in the locale of your eventual posting.) I suggest that you consider posts
like Umatilla Army Depot, Fort Carson, Rocky Mountain Arsenal, Tooele
Army
Depot, Dugway
Proving Ground, Fort Lewis (possibly permanent party at Yakima Training
Center), Fort Greely, Fort Wainwright, or perhaps
Sierra Army
Depot. Army PERSCOM branch
managers are often willing to accommodate requests from junior officers that
state a preference for posts that their peers
would
consider
"backwater" assignments. (Let everyone else ask for
a posting in Germany, Fort Meade, or Fort Devens.) Your branch manager
may exclaim to his co-workers:
"Holy cow! This lieutenant asked to be assigned to Umatilla
Army Depot!"
« Letter Re: Retreat Locale Recommendations in Northern Idaho? |Main| Letter Re: A 250 MPG Bicycle Gasoline Engine »
Letter Re: Employment as a Gunsmith, Both Before and After TSHTF
Mr. Rawles,
I am a new reader of your blog. One of my co-workers recently
told me about it and I am hooked. I never knew there was such a large gathering
of like minded people. The reason for this e-mail is to ask about gunsmithing
courses. Being new to your site I may not be looking in the right direction.
If this is a subject that has not been covered can you or any of your readers
recommend an online or correspondence course? Thank you. - Randy G.
JWR Replies: I have not yet covered this topic, so here is
my input on gunsmithing training opportunities in the U.S.: Gunsmithing
is indeed a valuable skill and highly recommended as either a primary or secondary
source
of income.
Assuming
that
you are looking
at gunsmithing
as an "at home" business and you want that business to be recession
proof or even depression proof, I suggest that you develop a non-decorative specialty.
(Not engraving, stock carving, or bolt jeweling,.)
America already has plenty of engravers. To be fully employed both
before and after TSHTF,
you should consider specialties like semi-auto rifle repair/customizing, or
combat handgun repair/customizing.
Full length courses are available from a number of colleges including Lassen
Community College (Susanville, CA), Montgomery
Community College (Troy, NC), Murray
State College (Tishomingo, OK), Trinidad
State Junior College (Trinidad,
CO), and Yavapi College (Prescott,
AZ).
Some very useful instructional videos/DVDs are available from AGI.
Correspondence courses are available from Modern
Gun School. But I have heard that they
are no substitute for hands-on instruction. The
NRA offers some excellent short term hands-on courses. Also take advantage
of the relatively low cost armorer's courses offered by gun makers like Springfield
Armory, Colt, SIG and Glock.(For
some of these you have to be a FFL dealer
and already stocking their brand, or be associated with a police department
that has that brand of gun as their issue weapon. One way to do that is
to become a reserve police officer, and get involved as a police department
armorer.)
You might
also
ask about
apprenticing
with a local gunsmith. Or if you are
quite
serious about gunsmithing as a life-long career,
be willing
to relocate
to apprentice under a master gunsmith in the specialty of your choice.
The best ones will want to train only someone that has a few years of
basic gunsmithing experience, proven aptitude, and a real burning desire to
excel at gunsmithing.
I don't generally recommend military training as an armorer. The U.S. Army
formerly had a separate "armorer" specialty, but that is now part of the 92Y
(Unit Supply Specialist)
military occupational specialty (MOS). Sadly, there is not much a gunsmithing
"craft": taught to 92Ys anymore--no offense, but in essence they've been reduced
to just parts orderers and parts
changers.
For anyone that is already in the Army (active duty, reserve, or National Guard)
there
is
a
CD training set
available from Tobyhanna Army Depot for the small arms
portions of the 92Y advanced individual training (AIT) course. The
applicable CDs are: CD 101-75
through 101-84. It might be useful to pick up 92Y as a secondary MOS.
As a starting point, I recommend that you start assembling your own gunsmithing
library. For example, get every gun assembly/disassembly manual (such as the J.B.
Wood's multi-volume
series) that you can lay your hands on. Used copies are often
available at low prices through eBay or
Amazon.com. I also recommend
that you get a set of Jerry
Kuhnhausen's "Shop Manual" gunsmithing books.
They are excellent.
You
will of course also need to start assembling a set of gunsmithing tools.
One of the best
sources for tools is Brownell's.
The rudimentary basics to start gunsmithing would be: a full set of good
quality hollow
ground screwdrivers (I especially like the Chapman's
brand sets),
a set of pin punches, a brass/plastic head hammer, wire cutters, a set of
Swiss pattern
files, a set of larger files of various profiles, a
set of stones, some cold bluing solution, a roll pin assortment, and some
coil spring stock.
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Letter Re: Storing Ammo in Cans--Should I Leave it in the Cardboard Boxes?
Hi Mr. Rawles,
I'm currently reading and enjoying your fine book Rawles
on Retreats and Relocation as well as a few
other publications (such a Boston's Gun Bible, by
Boston T. Party), and actually have a rather simple question for you. At present,
I am in the process of trying to
prepare an urban retreat at our home in Orange County (in the PRK).
Until we can early-retire and move to our
newly acquired land in either Montana or Wyoming, we are stuck here because
of our jobs. In any event, with regard to the subject of long-term ammo storage,
I was wondering if you (1) favor placing your ammo into ammo cans, with the
ammo
still sitting
inside the commercial manufacturer's paper/card stock boxes (in which the ammo
was purchased) or (2) if you simply dump the cartridges straight from the manufacturer's
box straight into the ammo can. I've heard both good and bad things said, from
a number of friends, about both kinds of storage strategies. I am presently
using (1) as my storage medium, but I wanted to go the The Mountain to get
the final word. Thanks so much for your input. Regards, R.T. in Yorba
Linda, Occupied PRK
JWR Replies: When storing ammo in military surplus ammo cans,
I always leave ammo in the original boxes unless they are water-damaged. This
aids recognition--not
just
of the
maker and load/bullet weight, but right down to the lot number--which some
makers print
inside
their box flaps. Recognition
also plays
significantly into the desirability of ammo for resale or barter. The original
boxes also protect soft nose bullet tips from deformation, which can affect
accuracy. OBTW, in case
there
is a trace of moisture left in the cardboard, and for moisture in the atmosphere,
I always drop a small packet of silica
gel in each ammo can before I snap it shut.
OBTW, I've also recently had a reader ask about re-packing plastic "battle
packs" of military surplus ammo. There is no need to do so if the plastic
sleeve is still sealed and intact. Just be sure to protect the battle packs
from sunlight and vermin. (One
little rat's nibble, and the pack will lose its seal.)
« Letter Re: The Importance of Proper Hearing Protection |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Poll Results: Why are You Preparing to Survive?
Here is the first round of responses to this question: Those who are well
educated enough to see a societal collapse of some sort or another in the making
fall into two groups, the merrymakers
and the preparers. The merrymakers don't see life worth living post-SHTF, so
they live it up now. We on SurvivalBlog are the preparers and have
chosen to survive, but why? Our children? To rebuild civilization?
Because the collapse will only be temporary? Because we can and we're
stubborn with a stronger than normal will to survive? The following
is just the first batch of responses. I plan to post at least one
more batch. Please send your responses (one paragraph or less) via e-mail,
and I will post them anonymously.
The survivalist is an optimist -- not
merely because he/she thinks he'll make it through the crisis, but because
of the
(possibly
subconscious)
hope
that
something good will emerge in the aftermath. It's the logic of any kind of
apocalyptic thought... Theological systems that have a conception of a climactic
struggle or an "end times" imagine that, after Armageddon, we'll
see the dawning of a new age. Not surprisingly, a lot of Hollywood movies follow
this script, too: After the aliens are defeated, for example, in "Independence
Day", mankind stands united, having put aside their differences; After
catastrophic weather changes in "The Day After Tomorrow," the planet
begins to heal itself, etc. Heck, this theme can be seen, too, in your fine
book, "Patriots". In the same way, I plan to live not only because
I'm stubborn and have a finely-tuned sense of justice -- and thus hate the
idea of turning over the planet to looters, thugs, and others who would prey
on the innocent -- but also because I'm both curious and hopeful about what
will emerge as society reconstitutes itself.
--
My modest preparation springs from the knowledge that I and the Lord are
the protectors of my family (there are five of us). Our ultimate trust is in
Him,
but it is on me to do what I reasonably can do to protect my family from in
the event of hardship and/or disaster. (After watching [Hurricane] Katrina,
it seems apparent that the government cannot do that.) Anyone reading your
web
site
thinks that
there is at least a fathomable chance that our nation's run of blessing/luck
will end (or be suspended) at some point in the future. Nothing lasts forever.
If and when that time comes, I would never forgive myself if my family suffered
unnecessarily because I did not take reasonable steps to prepare for such a
time. In addition to that, it's just plain fun to learn about this stuff. (Anyone
who says otherwise is lying!)
--
Because the alternative is inconceivable to me!
--
I’m currently going through some things in my life that are agonizing
(but subject to change) and make things feel almost hopeless for me at times,
yet every day I wake up again and thank God that he breathed the breath of
life into me. I won’t waste that breath. I’m motivated to prepare
to survive and overcome by many factors. Here are some examples:
I’m a 7th generation descendant of a settler in my current state and I’m
motivated to survive by the risks my settler ancestors took, the struggles they
went through, the multiple battles they fought in, the children they lost prematurely
and the price they paid to be here. I recently visited some of their graves for
the first time. I see it as my responsibility, honor and duty to live freely
and survive. The stock I am from is cut out for it.
I prepare to survive because I’m ultra conservative, at times feeling like
an endangered species or “minority” and I’m tenaciously defiant
to those who would like to see my “kind” exterminated. I am equipped
with a few trusted friends that are peers in regard my views (though mostly surrounded
by sheeple) and have inspired some to begin to prepare. I discern a negative
spiritual force is taking action to see my country’s sovereignty given
away. I am motivated to be a hindrance to that spirit. My country is worth saving.
I prepare to survive because as a young man I swore an oath to uphold and defend
the Constitution of the United States, despite the fact that there have been
some truly sorry individuals working to undermine that Constitution since before
I was born. I intend to see my oath fulfilled.
I prepare to survive because I read "Patriots", awoke to how fragile our economy
really is and saw how foolishly I’d been behaving in the past (assuming
life would always be normal) and am in the process of repenting of any residual
foolish, sheeple-like attitudes and habits I have.
I prepare to survive because I’ve been in a city where gasoline was temporarily
not available and walked through the local grocery store at 3:00 AM (less crowded)
and have seen the store shelves stripped of food for a short period of time.
It’s
pretty convincing you need to prepare when the fuel in the tank of your vehicle
and few 5 gallon cans (at the time) may be all you’ll have for a while.
I prepare to survive because if things ever Schumerize I have multiple skill
sets that can help a number of people in a number of survival situations. I believe
I was created to help people, when possible. I gather info, educate, discuss
and leave food for thought for those who are unprepared, but willing to listen
and consider my views on the subject.
--
Why an I preparing? For the simple reason that I live in the middle of the
midwest. Bad winters, heavy snow, and ice storms. The rest of the year heavy
rain , floods, tornados, et cetera. You can't depend on the government to
come through
when needed, so if you don't have what you need than you are SOL!
You have to
be able to get by on what you have or fabricate something to do the job needed.
I haven't depended on the government to help and I really don't think they
have the capacity any more if ever. It will be your self and friends and
neighbors
pulling
together that will make the difference. I prepare for me and mine so that we
may be able to help others if need be. I've traveled extensively in South America,
off the beaten path, and if you don't have what you need or can fabricate
it than you should not be there. The same goes for having all your ducks
lined
up at home.
--
I'm a Jesuit educated 38 year old Bachelor, Eagle Scout, USMC Gulf War Vet,
working for a major aerospace company in Seattle. The reason I'm preparing
is I inherited
~$500K from my grandfather, who sold the family farm in California to housing
developers. He worked hard for all of us and I don't want that blessing of
wealth to be squandered. I'm preparing because being prepared is what's been
beat
into my
head since I was a kid. You can't play the "victim" card on the Four
Horsemen.
--
Why do I prepare? Probably because I read too much science fiction as a
child! Probably because surviving is so much more interesting than succumbing.
Born
in the late 1950s, I remember bomb shelter salesmen and diving under my desk
during A-bomb drills. I always assumed something, a war, or a pandemic, could
change life as I knew it. It never occurred to me not to want to survive. Both
my parents were alive during the depression, and that contributed to not taking
food/housing for granted. Perhaps my uncle, who survived Bataan, or my aunt,
who was a prisoner of war in the Philippines, might also have had something
to do with my mindset?
--
Because I believe that life is worth living, and I have no intention of
simply "biting
the dust" unless I give it the old college try. I believe that trying
and ultimately failing is far better than not trying at all.
--
Bottom line: I owe it to my family to be prepared. I could not bear to look
into their eyes as they look to me for help and have to say "Sorry."
--|
I am a preparer. Not because I'm smarter than anyone else, but because from
what I see, there just is no other choice. I do it for my family; my beloved
husband who humors me but thinks I'm slightly nuts, my grown children who love
me but roll their eyes whenever I speak about what is happening around us.
look, I don't have any college degree or any fancy smarts, no one would call
me well educated. But I can see what I can see. I read, study, research and
from my angle, we are gonna be toast and I bet my surly one eyed cat that it
will be ugly. so I plod along doing the best I can when can. I don't have
a retreat, I don't have a bunker or fallout shelter, I don't have 10 acres
or two years worth of food. But I've got God. I keep plodding on doing the
best
with what I have and I know He takes care of the rest.Will we survive the whatever
that comes? Heck if I know. But I'm a fool if
I do not give it my best shot.
--
As a man of firm Christian beliefs, I believe all our days are numbered
and have value. In those number of days we are to protect and provide for our
our
own selves, our families and so on. Examples in scripture are numerous how
people were commanded to defend their homes, their cities, their neighbors,
and their land. Unless we (like some were) are destined to go into Babylonian
captivity I see no other proper choice.
--
I am taking what steps I feel necessary to survive in a societal collapse of
infrastructure because I realize that the more intricate a system of living
becomes, the more possible facets of failure are therefore created. As the
machine known as Society grows in scale and complexity, so do the required
aspects of its function; increasing the number of things
that can go wrong, thus eventually causing a critical failure of the system.
With the statistical (and historical) inevitability staring one in the face,
how can someone not do everything within
your power to be prepared?
--
I feel its my duty to four fathers, kids, grand kids, friends, although they
are getting harder to find these days, an it just feels like the right thing
to
do,also its interesting,fun, a great learning expense,i spend hours on your
site an i want to really thank you for it. I'm sure you make money off of it
an you should, but I'll bet you are the type of person that really believe
in what you do. I love my guns an have about 25 [of them], I try to go to
the
range at least three times a week, its the most relaxing time in my life ,by
myself or with someone, I'm sure a lot of people don't understand, I love
the military
weapons a lot, I have .303s, Mausers, and others. I'm proud of my beliefs,
thanks.
--
I consider preparing my Christian duty. I'm also stocking up lots of extra
food, clothing, and so forth for charity, which is also my Christian duty.
--
Myself, I am what would be called a "millennialist" based on my
beliefs from the Bible. The majority of mankind is stupid and sinful. Thousands
of years and we are still doing the same mistakes over and over. I do not believe
in any Gene Roddenberry vision where mankind, by its own efforts, rises from
the ashes and evolves into a benevolent
a Star Trek society. Nothing sort of divine intervention will save us in the
long run from permanent self-destruction----Now aren't I a cheerful one to
invite to a social gathering?;)
Just for the record, I'm not one of those nuts that believe in trying to hasten
or encourage the Second coming The world is dong a fine job all by itself.
--
While I had read about survivalism and planning for a couple of years, the
importance of having some sort of plan didn't hit me hard until I was living
in the South, had a new baby, and [Hurricane] Katrina hit. All of a sudden
the importance of having an evacuation plan, supplies, and a known destination
to retreat
to were very important. I am not as prepared as many of the readers, but I
know
where to go and what I'll do when I get there. Also, thanks to some great books
on small farming and some great advice on here I know how to avoid some real
pitfalls.
--
I’m preparing to survive for my wife and my children, because I can
and because it gives me a feeling of confidence. I say “because I can” since
most of my acquaintances don’t have a clue of the probable upcoming changes
in society, but of those that do have a clue they can’t prepare for survival.
They can’t prepare for survival because they’re financially tapped
out by having been brainwashed into living on credit today figuring somebody
else will take care of them tomorrow, but it won’t be me.
And it drives me nuts. A 45 year old single female friend of my wife owns a
boat, owns a camper, had two vehicles, bought a scooter and recently bought
a house within the last two years. When I first started preparing for survival,
my wife made a comment to her about it and her friend said when the SHTF “we’ll
all be as snug as a bug in a rug.” I said“What do you
mean we? I think you need to make your own preparations.”
I used to try and educate our acquaintances but have started taking more of
an inquiring approach with regards to what they think are the possible upcoming
changes in society. A couple we know refinanced their house to buy a travel
trailer but they only camp within 45 minutes of their house because they can’t
afford the gas and their tow vehicle is not reliable. I asked the husband what
he thought was coming in the future, he said he figured things were going to
get pretty bad. But then they just put down a deposit on a trip to Hawaii so
I’ve got to figure you just can’t help people like this.
And it’s not that I wouldn’t help anybody, I saw value in a comment
on your web site with regards to helping neighbors and I will. (Is it okay
if I only help the ones I like?). We live in a conventional neighborhood and
I
wish we didn’t but at this point it would take too much of our resources
to move to a property with more land. So our best defense is to bond with the
good neighbors but I don’t want all our irresponsible acquaintances coming
to live with us.
We have a good life and are lucky to be able to make preparations for what
may come. And I am thankful for every additional day I have to get better prepared.
--
I am preparing to survive because I believe the threats to our way of life
are manifold. We are in a global war. China strength's grows, our borders are
not protected. Our government is shredding the constitution. Natural disasters,
environmental concerns, the basic depravity and selfishness of man--its reason
enough. I was a volunteer during [Hurricane] Katrina. Not one person who
had preps, was sorry. Many other equivalent societies in this century have
fallen,
why is
America better ? It is inevitable, one disaster will prove the wisdom of preparing.
--
1. Life is worth living.
2. I want to be around if there is any defending of this nation to be done.
3. Who said one can’t prepare and merrymake? (I guess it depends on one’s
interpretation of ‘merrymake’).
--
It's something that was raised in me. Whether it was the Boy Scout's motto
of always being prepared, or just the human instinct of survival, if I see
something
on
the horizon, I won't back down. Not to mention I get to justify spending a
lot of money on camping gear and guns, my two favorite hobbies.
--
We are trying to prepare because it is the right and responsible thing to do
for our family, friends, neighbors, and country. If we all became part of the
solution, then there would be no problem.
--
Jim, I grew up in the bomb shelter/Cold War era. A neighbor two houses down
actually dug out their front yard to install a bomb shelter. My folks had a
rudimentary bug-out bag and we always kept a month's worth of food on hand.
Hey, for the 1950s, that was progressive thinking so I guess I come by being
into preparedness naturally.
I hold advanced degrees but my education does not get in the way of exercising
common sense. It is obvious that our complex society is too interdependent
to survive major interruptions and we have numerous examples to look at (the
L.A. riots, Hurricane Katrina, and such). To believe that a major interruption
of services could not occur is delusional. The empirical evidence is right
in front of us. The family which is prepared has far fewer worries.
Do I believe we are headed for TEOTWAWKI?
Not particularly. Do I believe that we will see significant disruptions that
will affect us for 10 days or so?
Yes, definitely. Disruptions lasting to 30 days or beyond? Less likely, but
I maintain a "year's supply" nonetheless. Also, my Church has preached
being prepared for years. Our leaders have constantly cajoled us to have a
year's supply of food and other necessities and my guess is they know something
we haven't heard yet.
--
Most pundits state that human beings are constantly evolving. The point they
have ignored or can't see is that the evolvement of the human race in the last
50 years has been a deterioration, not an advancement. We survivalists are,
quite frankly, throwbacks to the pure genotype that got us to this point in
time.
--
I prepare because the end is nigh (at least TEOTWAWKI), and there will be
a lot of merry-makers who suddenly changed their minds, post-collapse. If you're
prepared and you decide the going is too rough, you can always quit,but if
you're not prepared, your options are zero. You're done. Besides, my family
is Finnish, and we're stubborn SOBs. You can always tell a Finn, just not
much...
--
I prepare to survive because I see it as part of the natural cycle of human
civilization. Something in us wants to forget the lessons of what makes us
a great society and start living on borrowed riches and capabilities. Eventually,
that living beyond our means catches up with us via a natural disaster, economic
collapse or societal conflict.
If we were not to prepare to survive then we are doomed to fail and live miserably
under the dictates of someone else. If we prepare we are not guaranteed to
have prepared for the right situation, or enough, but at least we have a much
better than average chance. In the end, I am an optimist. No matter how bad
things get they will eventually get better. We can speed up our own recovery
and that of our community’s by preparing now. If we do not, then we may
end up wallowing in misery and struggling for the barest necessities. Is that
the kind of life God wants for us? I think not. I believe God wants us to live
wisely and prepare to prosper under all conditions. That takes discipline and
short-term sacrifice.
--
Jim, your blog rocks. I only hope that I can learn and earn fast enough to
take advantage of the incredible information that your forum provides before
TEOTWAWKI.
I have a beautiful 6 month old son who is totally innocent to the ways in which
TPTB (the powers that be) are systematically destroying nature, American Democratic
principles and threatening the survival of humanity. He deserves a chance in
this life, regardless of whether or not he'll ever get to visit Sam's Club,
get a college scholarship, drive a V-8 or own an iPod.
When things start to get dicey, and as the world as we know it begins to fall
apart - most likely permanently- he will be just coming up in age and entering
what should be the most wondrous years of a child's life.
For him, and for my future children, I will fill their youthful imaginations
with nature, tools, projects, outdoor adventure and practical knowledge. Before
I let the idiot-box and America's media-driven junk-culture destroy their understanding
of their place in God's kingdom (and the animal kingdom), they will know
what to eat and how to hunt it, how to garden, how to fix stuff and how
to avoid trouble in a society that in the future will eventually fail entirely
by trying to eliminate all risk of failure here in the present.
They will be encouraged to learn practical trades: veterinary sciences, engineering,
construction, medicine and alternative medicine, martial arts, food production
and off-the-grid technology solutions.
No bankers, real-estate agents, financial analysts, politicians or computer
graphic designers in this family, Jim. No sireeee bubba.
I have always believed that those people who want to throw God's gift of life
away through risk, recklessness, attempted suicide or plain old bad lifestyle
habits are doomed to live longer.
I have also questioned since1987 when the U.S.S. Stark got hit by our"allies" escorting
black gold in the Persian Gulf how long our cheeseburger-driven, cheap-oil,
fiat-money, fake-friends and fear of loss-driven society can keep going.
Therefore I will survive this impending paradigm-shift in human existence in
order to see my children prevail into adulthood, and for my morbid curiosity
to see how all this B.S. I have put up with my entire life winds-up in the
end
of my days.
It won't be easy however. Here in Texas, not
1 in 1000 people has a clue what might be coming in the next few years. Even
after [Hurricane] Katrina pushed a not-so-golden horde of 150,000 low income
welfare dependents onto the greater Houston area. I guess that bad stuff
only happens
to others,
right?
I'll be heading for the hills soon enough I hope, and taking my brood to
a more austere, self-sufficient and remote lifestyle before Sugar Land Texas
becomes a looter's paradise.
--
At first I prepared because it was an American act of self-reliance. Now,
after all the weird looks and puzzled expressions, I get to have the biggest
'I told you so' in my lifetime.
--
Great question. Do I have an answer? Yeah a couple. Peace of mind in these
troubled times is the main one. We buy insurance for everything except peace
of mind.
Our power goes off we start our transition to alternatives without a worry.
Lights, power,shelter, water, communication ability goes on. Food is here
to be eaten fuel to use without need to purchase, cash on hand no worries.
Another reason we do what we do is because "I" feel it's my responsibility
to my family. Part of my responsibility as a husband and a father is prepare
to take care of them no matter what happens next I can't sleep knowing I
could have, but I didn't. It's a philosophy of maintaining the status quo
to then have the time and resources to help others. It's about being "ahead
of the game." It's about
life and meeting it's changes head on, never stopping head down and moving
constantly
on forward to whatever it is that is next in life.
--
My reason is: why give up? I have fought to hard in this life to just roll
over
and die.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Poll Results: Why are You Preparing to Survive? »
Letter Re: The Importance of Proper Hearing Protection
Jim:
Regarding the [recently mentioned] Peltor tactical 6S (sound trap) [electronic
earmuffs]: While the battery power for these is somewhat of a concern, they
are well worth what
you might
spend
keeping
a few extra sets of AAA rechargeables
(two for each
ear) around. I, too, have been running these muffs for a number of years and
really like them, especially under a helmet. The radio part works well too.
On the qualification
range with all the M4s going off, you can hear a hammer fall.
So here is my quandary and request for advice. I've tried NiCd and
NiMH batteries and have been really disappointed with the battery life of
any rechargeable in
these earmuffs. (You know me, only hi-cap rechargeables!)
Next thing you know, the volume is down. I've ended up using only Duracell
throwaways, or equivalents. I mean rechargeables work but they are about 1/3
of the operating time that a throwaway battery has. Of course, they are AAAs
and those are pretty puny
anyway. Any advice, guidance or comments for enlightenment?
Thanks, - The Army Aviator
JWR Replies: Sadly, I don't know of any rechargeable AAA
batteries with decent mil-amp hour capacity. There just isn't the room in that
tiny battery
casing for much "oomph". Perhaps there is a SurvivalBlog reader out
there that has
a solution--either disposables
or
rechargeables.
Oh!
I just
had
one possible blinding flash of the obvious (BFO): As long as you already
have a radio cable plugged
in, how about running a co-axial power cable--modifying the
earmuffs so that that
they
can "piggyback" from your radio's battery pack? It would be fairly
simple to rig resistors to drop the voltage to 3 VDC That would allow the
muffs to run for weeks.
Just a thought--it might be too difficult to McGyver into practical implementation.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Be Prepared to Perform Tooth Extractions »
Letter Re: The Importance of Proper Hearing Protection
JWR,
I
