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Two Letters Re: Cost Comparison: Factory Loads and Reloaded Ammunition
James,
Grandpappy isn't comparing apples to oranges correctly. His reloaded ammo pricing is for premium self defense bullets, which cost $150 or so per thousand. Most people are going to reload cast lead, which would cost $50 or 60 per thousand for a .40 S&W for example. If you price new premium self defense ammo, like Doubletap, it is going for around $700 a case. If you purchased new brass (why?) Hornady or Speer premium SD bullets, you would still be able to build your own (which we supposedly should not due to legal concerns) SD ammo for half the cost. And practice? Much, much cheaper with lead bullets.
Recent online ammo vendors (who have in stock) are trying to charge almost $500 for a case of .45 ACP 230 grain hardball (look at Natchez). You can load 230 grain lead roundnose (LRN) and duplicate the factory load for maybe $130 or so with good hard cast bullets included. Compared to today's ridiculous ammo prices, you can make up the cost of your reloading setup in a case or two of ammo. Anyone who wants to shoot more than 500 rounds a year should be reloading. Thanks! - M.S.
Jim:
Grandpappy had a great article on reloading, but what about time? Time is money. Reloading is very time consuming. Between [the time required for] collecting the fired brass, sorting the brass, cleaning [or tumbling] the brass, de-priming the brass, adjusting brass specs to factory (sizing, case length, primer pocket, etc…), this alone is a huge labor and use of time.
This, and my worsening eyesight that keeps me from enjoying precision hand loads, is why I gave up on reloading and sold all my equipment and supplies. BTW, I made a bundle of cash selling my new and used brass and primers. Wow! I quadrupled my money.
No one seems to factor in time. I don’t know about you, but have a long list of to-do projects and brass prep is not one of them.
I’m sure glad I bought hard and heavy in ammo back in the old days. I’m set for my life and probably the life of my kid too. - Robert
JWR Replies: I agree that reloading is time-consuming, but it is a valuable skill. For anyone that makes a six-figure salary, it is probably not worthwhile as a hobby at the present time. But for the rest of us, that don't make that much money, and a have a bit of time on our hands, it is well worth doing. It is particularly worthwhile for students and retirees. I love listening to music, and find that since it is a relatively quiet activity, reloading is a soothing, almost cathartic experience. But, of course, "your mileage may vary." Regardless, it is a valuable skill. I recommend that SurvivalBlog readers at least take the time to learn how to do it, and lay in the appropriate tools and supplies. Reloading capability might prove invaluable in a long-term collapse.
OBTW, don't overlook taking the same humidity precautions for powder and primers that you do for loaded ammunition. On that note, I should mention that I prefer using used Tupperware boxes for storing primer and percussion caps. They are airtight, yet they pose less of an explosion risk than metal ammo cans, in the unlikely event of a house fire. (I look for Tupperware containers whenever I go to garage sales, thrift stores, and farm auctions. Powder cans seal quite well by themselves. Again, for the sake of fire safety, they should be stored in a "blow open" plywood cabinet. Again, resist the temptation to store it in something confining like a 20mm ammo can.
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Cost Comparison: Factory Loads and Reloaded Ammunition, by Grandpappy
There are some significant cost differences between reloading shotgun shells and reloading pistol and rifle ammunition.
The following cost summaries illustrate these differences (all cost data collected in June 2009):
Pistol Ammunition Summary:
$0.270 = Total Cost of one New Factory-Loaded 40 S&W 165 Grain Pistol Cartridge.
$0.206 = Total Material Cost to Reload one Used 40 S&W 165 Grain Pistol Cartridge.
$0.064 = Cost Savings of Reloading one Used 40 S&W 165 Grain Pistol Cartridge.
Rifle Ammunition Summary:
$0.800 = Total Cost of one New Factory-Loaded 308 Caliber 165 Grain Rifle Cartridge.
$0.480 = Total Material Cost to Reload one Used 308 Caliber 165 Grain Rifle Cartridge.
$0.320 = Cost Savings of Reloading one Used 308 Caliber 165 Grain Rifle Cartridge.
Shotgun Shell Summary:
$0.240 = Total Cost of one New Factory-Loaded 12 Gauge 2.75-inch #7.5 Shot Shotgun Shell.
$0.410 = Total Material Cost to Reload one Used 12 Gauge 2.75-inch #7.5 Shot Shotgun Shell.
-$0.170 = Additional Cost to Reload one Used 12 Gauge 2.75-inch #7.5 Shot Shotgun Shell.
Shotgun Slug Summary:
$0.631 = Total Cost of one New Factory-Loaded 12 Gauge 2.75-inch One-Ounce Shotgun Slug.
$0.738 = Total Material Cost to Reload one Used 12 Gauge 2.75-inch One-Ounce Shotgun Slug.
-$0.107 = Additional Cost to Reload one Used 12 Gauge 2.75-inch One-Ounce Shotgun Slug.
A more detailed cost analysis that supports the above numbers appears at the bottom of this article.
The above data is based on average costs as of June 2009. I did not select the lowest possible cost nor the highest possible cost for each item. Instead I used the average cost.
If a person wanted to prove a specific point then he or she could easily select a set of extreme cost data that would support his or her point of view. For example, a person could compare the cheapest reloading materials to the most expensive factory-loaded ammunition and show a large savings. Or a person could compare the most expensive reloading materials to the cheapest factory-loaded ammunition and show a loss.
Since I am not trying to encourage or discourage reloading I used the average cost numbers for each material to provide a more balanced perspective.
The above data suggests that the average person could save a little money by reloading pistol and rifle ammunition.
On the other hand, the average person would save money by purchasing new factory-loaded shotgun shells instead of reloading empty shotgun shells.
The above conclusion is the same one I reached in 1974 when I first investigated the costs of reloading ammunition. In 1974 I could save money reloading both pistol and rifle ammunition but I would have paid a premium if I had tried to reload shotgun shells.
The above analysis does not take into consideration the cost of the reloading equipment. If a person were to invest $290 in reloading equipment plus $40 in one set of reloading dies in a specific caliber, then that person would need to reload the following number of empty cartridges to recover the cost of the total investment of $330:
5,156 Pistol Cartridges = $330 divided by $0.064 savings per pistol cartridge, or
1,031 Rifle Cartridges = $330 divided by $0.320 savings per rifle cartridge.
This clearly illustrates that a person would need to reload a lot of ammunition in order to break even on his or her investment of $330 in reloading equipment that includes one set of reloading dies. Therefore, the average person would probably be better advised to invest in new factory-loaded ammunition if he or she can still find it available for sale.
However, if factory-loaded ammunition becomes increasingly difficult to find, or if its price continues to increase, then a person might want to consider the reloading option as a viable alternative.
Some additional information about the reloading process is at the following page on my web site. This following web page also discusses the art of bullet casting and how to reduce your lead bullet cost to approximately $0.05 per bullet using clip-on lead wheel weights and ordinary solder that contains tin:
How to Get More Ammunition During Hard Times.
A general discussion on how to improve your marksmanship ability when shooting at paper targets is at the following page on my web site: How to Hit the Target Bull's-Eye.
The following detailed cost information is provided to support the cost data at the beginning of this article. This cost data is based on the average costs for each material as of June 2009:
Pistol Cartridge (40 S&W 165 Grain FMJ):
$0.030 = Primer Cost ($29.99 per box of 1,000 divided by 1,000).
$0.016 = Average Powder Cost ($15.79 per pound divided by 959 cartridges per pound).
$0.160 = Average Bullet Cost ($15.99 per box of 100 divided by 100).
$0.206 = Total Cost to Reload one Used 40 S&W Pistol Cartridge.
$0.270 = Average Cost of one New Factory-Loaded 40 S&W Cartridge ($13.49 per box divided by 50 rounds per box).
Rifle Cartridge (308 Caliber 165 Grain):
$0.030 = Primer Cost ($29.99 per box of 1,000 divided by 1,000).
$0.120 = Average Powder Cost ($21.99 per pound divided by 184 cartridges per pound).
$0.330 = Average Bullet Cost ($16.49 per box of 50 divided by 50) .
$0.480 = Total Cost to Reload one Used 308 Rifle Cartridge.
$0.800 = Average Cost of one New Factory-Loaded 308 Cartridge ($15.99 per box divided by 20 rounds per box).
Shotgun Shell (12 Gauge 2.75-Inch #7.5 Shot):
$0.039 = Primer Cost ($38.99 per box of 1,000 primers divided by 1,000).
$0.049 = Average Powder Cost ($18.49 per pound divided by 378 Shells per pound).
$0.290 = Average Shot Shell Cost ($50.99 per 11-pound bag divided by 176 Shells per bag).
$0.032 = Average Wad Cost ($7.89 per bag of 250 Wads divided by 250).
$0.410 = Total Cost to Reload one Used 12 Gauge Shotgun Shell.
$0.240 = Average Cost of one New Factory-Loaded 12 Gauge Shotgun Shell ($23.97 per case of 100 shells divided by 100 shells per case).
Shotgun Slug (12 Gauge 2.75-inch One-Ounce Slug):
$0.039 = Primer Cost ($38.99 per box of 1,000 primers divided by 1,000).
$0.107 = Average Powder Cost ($18.79 per pound divided by 175 Shells per pound).
$0.560 = Average One-Ounce Slug Cost ($13.99 per 25 Slugs divided by 25).
$0.032 = Average Wad Cost ($7.89 per bag of 250 Wads divided by 250).
$0.738 = Total Cost to Reload one Used 12 Gauge Shotgun Slug.
$0.631 = Average Cost of one New Factory-Loaded 12 Gauge Shotgun Slug ($9.47 per box of 15 slugs divided by 15 slugs per box).
The cost of the empty metallic brass shell case and the empty plastic shotgun shell is not included in the above figures because those items are being reused and therefore they may be considered a “sunk cost.” A sunk cost is an expense that was incurred in the past and it is not relevant for future purchase decisions. In other words, after you have paid for the factory-loaded ammunition, and you have fired that ammunition, then you have the choice to either: (1) discard your empty shell cases, or (2) re-use those cases. If you decide to re-use your fired shell cases then you do not incur any new additional expense.
Sales tax and/or shipping expenses were not included in the preceding data. These costs would be unique to your geographical location and they would equally impact all the above costs by the same ratio.
The above costs for new factory-loaded ammunition are based on the cost of that ammunition at a Wal-Mart in the southeastern United States as of June 2009.
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Letter Re: Keep Ammo in Original Boxes?
Mr. Editor,
I've purchased ammo for self protection and for future barter. Is it best
to keep the ammo in the original boxes (e.g. the nice green UMC boxes with
the
plastic
insert that holds the rounds in place) and put those boxes into ammo cans?
Or should I just dump all the ammo into an ammo can loose? I could fit many more
rounds in each can by dumping them in loose, but I'm concerned about impacting
the future barter value of the ammo. And also, if I end up selling
some of
the ammo before TSHTF,
I would imagine keeping the rounds in the box would make the seller happier.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for what you do. - Alex
JWR Replies: Unless space is at an absolute premium (such
as for someone on a live-aboard boat) I recommend that you leave ammo in the
original factory
boxes, as it will be worth far
more in
barter, or in an eventual cash sale. Just as importantly, you will also be
able to keep "like
lots" together.
(Usually lot numbers are printed on the inside of the box
flaps.) There are sometimes subtle differences between lots, and the point
of impact can vary
a bit. This particularly
important for long range rifle shooting. Also, although they are rare, ammunition
recalls are not unheard of. Without lot numbers you'll have no way of
correlating
ammo
lots to
recall notices. And, needless
to say, store those
in mil-spec
ammo
cans
with
soft
seals.
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Zero Your Rifle with Just Two Rounds, by Pete C.
What makes our rifles fun? Shooting them! However, we have all seen first-hand
the spike in ammunition prices since the 2008 Presidential election. American’s
in fear that they will soon not be able to get ammunition because a possible
government bans, smart bullets schemes, etc; citizens have been stockpiling
ammunition causing a stress on the market. This in turn causes shortages
and prices rise.
Here I will discuss a simple and inexpensive way for you to stop wasting
ammunition and money; and zero your battle rifle (or any that you might “come
across” during a TEOTWAWKI situation) with only two rounds. If you have
been in the military, you know that the current procedure for zeroing the M16
type of rifles wastes time and ammunition. The military will allow up to eighteen
rounds of ammunition (in three round shot groups) to be fired per soldier in
order to zero their weapons. This allows several variables such as breathing,
trigger squeeze, stock weld, etc. to affect the zero.
Borrowing techniques from expert hunters, everyone can easily streamline their
zeroing procedures and only use two rounds of ammunition to quickly zero their
weapon. This method works whether zeroing iron sights or scopes, and it will
work on many different kinds of rifles with reliable adjustable sights (AR-15s,
AR-10s, M1As, FN/FALs, etc). The purpose of this method is only to provide
the shooter with a
weapon
that
places rounds on target. It does this while saving time and ammunition.
Required Items:
- A safe shooting location (range) providing at least 25 meter shooting
distance.
- One solid bench rest (many ranges have these for use, or they can
be purchased from many gun shops or on-line, ranging in price from $50
- $150 or more,
but then it is yours.
- Your chosen weapon (for example, an AR-15 using
iron sights)
- 25-meter zero target (for example, an E-type silhouette)
- One extra E-type silhouette
(cut out from another zero target)
- Staple gun and tape
- Eye and hearing protection
Zeroing Method
Place the mechanically zeroed weapon (See FM3-22.9 at the link below on mechanical
zero) securely in the bench rest and use the adjustments on the rest to put
the rifle sights directly over the center of a 25-meter zero target, or the
desired aim point and fire one round at the target. To compensate for the weapon’s
recoil, you should (if needed) again use the bench rest adjustments to move
the rifle sights back over the desired point of impact. Make sure that your
weapon is on safe.
Now walk downrange with the extra cut out E-type silhouette and tape it directly
over the impact point of the round fired. Walk back to the weapon (still secured
in the bench rest) and carefully move the sight picture directly over the taped-on
target. To do this, simply raise or lower the front sight post for elevation
corrections and turn the rear-sight (windage) knob either left or right to
make corrections.
You should now have your sights aligned precisely over the actual point of
impact on the target. If you have been careful not to make the rifle slip within
the bench while making the adjustments, it should now be zeroed. To confirm
the zero, simply move your sights back over the original target (using the
adjustments on the bench rest) to the desired point of impact and fire a second
round. If the rifle is zeroed, this round should hit the desired point of impact.
Get up and move again downrange to confirm the hit. If the round is not at
the desired point of impact, simply repeat the procedure from the second round’s
point of impact on the zero target. This simple procedure allows you to zero
a rifle quickly by moving the point of aim to the point of impact.
The use of a bench rest eliminates the need to fire three rounds of ammunition
to obtain a shot group before making sight adjustments. If the first round
is not true, the second (confirmation) round will alert you to this fact, and
you could than repeat the process.
Yes, there are other items that you can purchase that will assist you with
getting a weapon zeroed. Laser bore sights for example are great and easily
obtained from gun shops or on-line sites and range in price from $40 - $150
or more. With these items, you can zero your rifle quickly without even firing
a single shot saving both time and ammunition. However, if you do not have
the correct caliber laser or insert sleeve to change to a different caliber;
or the mini-watch batteries run dead and you have no way to replace them, the
laser bore sight will do you no good. If you already have one though, don’t
get rid of it. Sometimes there may be a situation in which you are in an area
where discharging of a firearm to zero may not be possible.
In addition, there is a wonderful company called Shepherd Scopes that developed
a patented dual reticle system that gives you a point of reference inside the
scope allowing you to zero the scope/weapon with just one shot from a bench
rest position. These scopes however range in cost from $700 - $800 apiece.
I would rather spend funds on purchasing more ammunition, as we all know from
reading SurvivalBlog.com, that ammunition could one day be more useful than
silver for the purposes of barter.
In closing, zeroing your rifle makes it more effective. This expedient two-round
method will give you confidence that your sights and bore are aligned even
if you happen to “pick-up” or borrow a weapon from a friend; have
limited time or limited ammunition. Understand that different positions, body
armor, winter clothing, etc. will change your head position, but your bore
and sights will be properly aligned/zeroed. Having a zeroed weapon is a fundamental
you can build on. The rest is up to you. Good-luck and God Bless!
References:
- Ammo Price Hike Has Many Biting the Bullet
- WorldNetDaily, There
was ammo on these shelves …Nationwide shortage leaves gun owners scrambling,
paying extra, Zahn, Drew,
March 31, 2009.
- FM 3-22.9 Rifle Marksmanship M16A1, M16A2/3, M16A4 and M4 Carbine
- Shepherd Scopes
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Letter Re: Gun Show Report--A Window of Opportunity?
Jim,
On Sunday, I attended what is billed as the largest gun show in North Carolina
and thought you and your readers might appreciate an update.
What I saw lead me to believe that supplies of black rifles and magazines are
catching back up to demand but that ammunition and reloading components remain
in short supply -- especially primers.
When I attended the November show, I had to wait in line 30 minutes or so just
to get in. I heard the March show had a two hour wait. Today, there was no
wait at all. It was crowded inside, but not jammed like the first post-election
show. Still, a healthy amount of business was being conducted, far more than
two years ago when I last attended as a dealer.
My first stop was to pick up the smokeless powder that I use to load .223.
It was sold out at my normal dealer. They had a big sign that said "No
Primers." I
found another dealer and bought two pounds. The price was reasonable. He had
only magnum pistol primers in stock. He told me the price as $48 per thousand,
but he expected it to settle back down in three months. I did not see any other
primers in the entire show. Several folks were selling bags of 100 pieces of
brass, but no one was selling 1,000 piece bags of it
or other large lots, and prices were up. So brass and primers remain in short
supply. Possibly it is all going to commercial ammunition production.
I was surprised to see that there were lots of new black rifles available --
more than I had expected. There were plenty of AR-15s well as AR uppers and
lowers. Despite wider availability, prices remain high. The cheapest plain
vanilla AR-15 that I saw was $1,080, with most guns starting at $1,200 and
anything with an adjustable buttstock and rails instead of the older forearm
starting
at around $1,600. In fact, I would say $1,600 was the average price for a Bushmaster
or a S&W M&P. Of course, there were still $3,000 guns for sale, but
no one was showing much interest.
Stripped lowers from the lesser-known manufacturers were going for about $139
and full lowers with an adjustable buttstock from Rock River Arms were $359.
I was looking for a spare bolt and bolt carrier, but never found one. I also
saw that part kits for lowers were in short supply. So if you are planning
on piecing together a gun, it might make more sense just to buy one complete.
You could wait weeks for parts and possibly spend even more when all is said
and done.
AK-47s were widely available, as were the Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30. AKs were
running in the $600 and up range while SKSes were closing in on $400. A CETME
rifle with a Century Arms receiver that cost $300 five years ago was not going
for a shockingly high $1,295. I only saw one Springfield Armory M1A. It had
a stainless steel barrel and was $1,695. FALs were scarce and at least as pricey.
Based on this show, magazines seem to be back to reasonable availability. Used
AR-15 magazines were $9. New .223 alloy magazines from C-Products or DPMS were
starting at $15 at most sellers. MagPul polymer magazines were $25 to $29,
depending on the model. They were some available, but limited quantities.
Pistol dealers were doing a very robust trade. I saw many more people buying
pistols than I did long guns. There were dealers with 20 tables just lined
up with Glocks, Springfield Armory pistols, SIGs, Smith and Wessons, Kahrs,
Kel-Tecs and just about anything else you could see. Every pistol dealer had
people sitting in chairs filing out paperwork.
Rifle ammunition was in decent supply. I saw at least three dealers that had
stacks of 1,000 round cases of new, commercial .223/5.56 from Federal XM193
and/or PMC for $459 and up. Many others had Wolf, Bear or other Russian or
Eastern European ammo. There were also folks selling "remanufactured" ammo
-- 500 in a .30 caliber ammo can for $275. Since this was the second day of
the show and near the end, I was surprised at this availability -- all the
anecdotal evidence I had heard lead me to believe cases of .223 would be sold
out. .308 ammo was harder to come by, with very little domestic production
available. There was a moderate supply of Russian calibers and one guy had
a pallet of 8mm [Mauser] that didn't seem to be selling.
Pistol ammunition was much more scarce than rifle ammo, especially in common
calibers. I saw only one dealer with .380 (for $35 a box) and only a few with
9mm. Dealers
had signs saying "No 9mm" or "No .45 ACP." Self defense
ammo with a good hollow point, such as Gold Dot or Ranger SXT were going
for $45 or $50 for a box of 50 rounds. There was more .357 and .40 [S&W]
and good supplies
of less common calibers like .44 Special. I only saw one dealer with bricks
of 1,000 .22 LRs, but plenty were selling the small 50 or 100 round boxes.
If this one show is any example, I would say that the industry is doing a good
job or meeting the increased demand for firearms, albeit at the expense of
the secondary market. Demand remains high, but is down from the surge in the
months immediately following the election, and supply is now catching
up. The
threat of additional legislation, assault weapon bans and magazine bans remains
and is likely to grow rather than recede. As a result, this may be a good window
of opportunity to buy a new firearm. While it is possible prices will drop
if we reach an over supply situation, I personally think that is unlikely in
the next two or three years unless the Republicans win an awful lot of seats
in the next congressional election.
The strong sales of pistols and lack of availability in pistol caliber ammunition
leads me to believe that many people are worried about rising crime and are
arming themselves. This is consistent with the up tick in people taking concealed
carry courses. One has to wonder if the same lines that produced pistol ammo
have been converted over to rifle calibers and if we are destined to see shortages
in one or the other for some time to come.
Finally, the recent sales explosion in firearms and the sudden lack of availability
in the market should be a lesson to anyone sitting on the survival fence. Do
not put off your preparations any longer. A sudden change can suck all the
supplies out of the pipeline and result in months of backorders for long term
storage food, water filters, medical supplies, etc. The just-in-time supply
situation is a precarious one and any small shock can upset the balance, resulting
in shortages and price increases. - Captain
Dave
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Letter Re Advice for College Students Living Abroad
Hi,
I'm a student from Singapore studying overseas in Australia and I'm also a
Christian. I have been following your blog for quite awhile, and there are
some things I would like to ask.
First, what advice can you give to students studying overseas? As a student,
I stay on my own in a rented place, and probably will have to move every six
months or so, so stockpiling food and goods are only feasible for about a month
or two worth of food, as I will have to shift everything I own on my own to
my new place whenever I move. That being said, I have roughly about a month's
supply of food stored up, but it is mostly in rice. If things go bad, I won't
be able to eat well, but will survive (I stocked up on some vitamins as well.
Not healthy I know, but better than nothing.). Additionally, what kind of food
should I buy and store? Currently, I am thinking about baking hardtack, as
they are easy to make and store well. I also have about 20 liters of water,
and am able to purify more than 100 liters of water using water purification
tablets and I also have a bottle of plain bleach.
As I am not in my home country, and if anything happens, I have no 'safe' place
to go. Other than going into the bush, which will not happen, as I have no
bush skills, the only choice I have is to hunker down and try, if possible,
to get a flight/ship back to Singapore. With such limited options, I am worried
about what to do WTSHTF,
which is ever more likely, given the current swine flu going around. While
I do know a family staying in a relatively rural area,
I do not know if I am able to get there as their acreage is quite a distance
away from my place and I have no transportation. Also, I am not sure if they
are prepared and stocked up for any crisis, so there is no guaranty that they
will be able to take me in. I would greatly appreciate some advice over this
issue, as it is the most important issue, and also advice on whatever you think
I am lacking in below.
Supplies: I have managed to gather some stuff over time, some medicine/first-aid(learned
some first-aid when younger, and still know the important stuff), lights (some
military stuff, since I have done my national service, a couple of wind up
torches as well for backup/indefinite use), fire starting equipment (lighters,
matches, fire starters, candles, no flint due to being unable to find someplace
that sells it), lightweight cooking equipment (billycan, metal bowls and tins,
utensils). Not much, but been trying to convince my parents to send over some
more supplies I have, which are mainly military stuff (nothing illegal, but
will raise some questions; excuse is they are for paintball, etc). Additionally,
for food I have about 10 kg of rice, plus enough canned food for a week (or
more, if I ration it), 6 liters of packet milk, about 20 packets soups, cooking
spices (very good for making whatever you have taste better), salt, etc. For
toiletries, I got plenty of toothpaste/toothbrushes, toilet rolls (about 2
months worth), soap/shampoo, etc.
Self defence: Nothing much, since there are strict airport rules, and can't
get a gun over here or in Singapore either. I keep a Swiss army knife on me
all the time, but that is mainly for use as a tool, as normally there won't
be any time to take it out. I learned tae kwon do when young (almost
got my black belt, but was unable due to circumstances), and am trying to learn
more
methods
and techniques of fighting. If it comes down to a fight, I am fairly confident
that I can hold my own against one or two people, but I have been trying to
improvise weapons that will allow me to escape. I have been trying to find
a place to learn Krav Maga, which is an Israeli martial art designed to teach
you to fight anywhere, any how, and
any time, against multiple opponents that may or may not be armed, with various
weapons. They focus on being ready to fight at all times using whatever it
takes to survive (aka all the dirty fighting techniques). I think that it is
a very useful martial art to learn, as it is the most realistic form of combat,
and teaches you how to improvise on the spot (They have two rules: 1. survive,
2. Try not to hurt your sparring partner.). In any case, I think the most important
thing to have is to be aware of your surroundings and people that are around
you. An armed man is hard to be beaten, unless taken by surprise, and an alert
man is hardly ever taken by surprise. As a side note, I recently bought a slingshot,
not that I expect it will be of any good for defence, but rather more for hunting
small animals if things really go south. Just need to get around to practicing
with
it.
Day to day carry: I carry with me a Swiss army knife, some medicine/first-aid,
water purification tablets (for 20 liters), a small LED light, a lighter and
some money in small notes in a small pouch close to me everywhere I go. Planning
to add on another pouch with more medical supplies, especially for this swine
flu outbreak. I also have a SOG multi-tool that I can add on, but chose not
to as people will really question what I am doing with 2 knives and all those
stuff. Also, wherever I go, I also bring along at least 1 liter of water, a
torch, a poncho, additional first-aid supplies, hand sanitizer, a bar of soap
and a couple of cereal bars. If I am on a long trip (more than a day or a few
hours by car), I would bring along additional stuff, like more fire starting
equipment, extra food, extra water, a spare torch, and a spare change.
Skills: I learned basic first aid when young, learned tae kwon do,
crude fire making (not too good), cooking, sewing (very basic, mainly for repairing/modifying
clothes) and cycling (although my area is very hilly, so I hardly cycle). I
am trying to learn more skills, like bushcraft, Krav Maga, hunting (doubt I
will be able to), and brush up on my fire starting skills, although in light
of the recent bushfires, it may be a bad idea. Also I am handy with simple
repairs (mainly a crude temporary fix), and like to innovate and make new stuff.
Swine Flu: I have been trying very hard to raise my stock of food and medicines
ever since I heard about the swine flu, but due to time (university) and financial
constraints, I can only stock up so much. I have been buying paracetamol tablets,
aspirin, face masks (box of 100, plus various other dust masks), anti-bacterial
hand gel, hydrogen peroxide, and am looking for surgical gloves, proper N95
equivalent face masks, Sambucol, more water purification tablets, antibiotics,
Betadine, bandages, etc.
Economic crisis: I have been looking around for a place to purchase silver
bullion with whatever spare cash I have, but have been unable to find a dealer.
I am hoping to get at least 150 ounces of silver in 1-ounce to 10-ounce bars
before the economy gives way, which I suspect won't be long. I pray it doesn't
happen,
as my home country will be hit really hard as it is focused heavily in the
financial sector, but being a realist, I think eventually my family will have
to move over to Australia, as at least it has farmland, natural resources and
a very social welfare-focused government as well.
Thanks for all your effort to educate people about the coming world situations
and how to prepare for it. What you are doing can mean life or death to many
people in the future when the world crashes and burns. - DieReady
JWR Replies: By all means, do team up with a rural family,
if you can. If you cache a large quantity of food with them, you will be assured
of being welcome there WTSHTF,
since you will be a benefactor for the family. In such circumstances, food
is a much better investment than silver! If you can pre-position your storage
food and
most of
your gear
there, you can
plan
to
bug out via
mo-ped.
There are two ways of looking at obstacles to preparedness: 1.) As reasons
to give up,
or 2.) as
challenges
and opportunities
for
growth. For example, your hilly terrain can be seen as an opportunity to build
strength
and endurance, rather than as an excuse for not bicycling. And just because
you can't find a local martial arts center that teaches Krav Maga, don't lapse
into inactivity.
Study whichever art is available locally. Just be sure to
find the best full
contact dojo in town. Furthermore, don't look at airport
security restrictions as a the lowest common denominator for
your
self defense preps. If you are going to be in Australia for an extended period
of time, then there is no reason why you shouldn't go ahead and purchase a
few key "dual use" self defense items, such as a half dozen 15 minute
road flares, a machete .,
and a six-C-cell
black MagLite ..You might also see if these is a local archery club--perhaps
affiliated with your local university. Practice at least twice a week with
your slingshot! They can
indeed be quite useful if
you
take
the
time
to
practice.
For your silver
purchases,
be
willing
to look
further
afield
for
dealers, or if
need
be, to
buy from a
reputable
mail
order dealer. Concentrate on the positive aspects of prepping, shepherd your
available funds, train consistently, and you'll make
progress!
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Letter Re: Life Under South Africa's Gun Laws, by Joe Ordinary Voortrekker
This article is a response to a large and glaring preparedness
dilemma for myself. Being a law abiding citizen I cannot willfully put myself
or my family into a situation where we can be held legally liable for the commission
of a crime. If I had a ‘run-in’ with the law because
of my beliefs on firearms and freedom, it can and will put my family at risk.
Unfortunately we live in a country where the liberty of its
citizens is at the mercy of the State. South Africa is for all intents and
purposes a ‘Free and democratic’ country. However, our government
is an openly socialist government. They require the dependency of its citizens,
every law that is passed is to ensure a more conformist and dependant populace.
One of the laws that was passed was the Firearms
Control Act of 2000. It is
another of a long stream of attempts to remove the right to bear arms in South
Africa. This act and the previous one allow for highly controlled and restrictive
legislation. Below, I will give a brief overview of the pertinent points as
it relates to the rights of individuals to keep arms. It is however, the root
of my dilemma. No
matter how many or types arms I would like to possess, or what types and amounts
of ammunition I would like to keep, I am controlled by the State every step
of the way with 101 different [regulatory details.]
Before I get to South African firearms legislation, let me give you some insight
as to where my thoughts stem from. Basically, after reading through the Profiles
of survivalists on SurvivalBlog,
and the recommendations of the most esteemed JWR. I could see no way that I
could become ‘squared away’ on the arms and ammunition side. Our
laws in South Africa are just too restrictive! That however has changed, as
there is a way. All it took was a little bit of lateral thinking and a copy
of "Patriots"
.
Well actually the other way around, the lateral thought came after the second
reading of "Patriots".
In this article I’m going to talk from a South African perspective and
relate this information from our view. What I am hoping and intending is that
it will get people to think through their firearm purchases and utilize every aspect or at least as many aspects as possible of the law
for their own benefit. The South Africa situation may or may not apply to you,
however this article is not intended for the US readers of SurvivalBlog, but more to people that live elsewhere and to give
them the hope that there is potentially a way. The idea is to think laterally
and use the rights that have been allowed you in every way possible.
Here is a brief synopsis of how the South African Firearms laws are applicable
to ordinary citizens. For the ‘casual’ owner, people are restricted
to a maximum of four firearms. The breakdown is as follows:
- One Handgun
- One Shotgun
- One Rifle (Not Semi Auto) (With associated proof that you hunt)
- One Casual Sports
shooting firearm ([another] one of any
of the above)
Only one of the first two (Handgun/Shotgun) may be designated a self defense
firearm and there are legal ramifications if you shoot someone in self defense
with another firearm. If you are a dedicated
sportsman/hunter/collector you are able to increase your firearm collection,
but always under strict monitoring and conditions. And you have to have proof,
proof and more proof.
Also we need to re-license every 2, 5, or 10 years depending on the type of
license. Along with additional costs, competency tests, fingerprints, home/safe
inspection and vetting of you by your family and/or neighbors, etc etc ad nauseam.
The way that I see this is that the Government wants the public disarmed, and
they are making it harder and harder and a real pain in the sphincter to re-apply
for their licenses, so most guys just give up and hand their weapons in.
With Ammo, you may only possess a maximum 200 rounds of any of the calibers
that you are licensed for. Possession of a single [loaded] round of any other
caliber is illegal unless you are a licensed cartridge collector. (This is
another painful exercise, and will not assist in stockpiling ammo) As for components.
Bullets, brass cartridge cases and magazines are not regulated. However primers
and propellants are. With primers, no more than 2,400 of any size. In addition,
so are some spare parts, barrels, sears etc. (BTW, a spare barrel is
considered a firearm in South Africa [, since pressurized gun parts are regulated.
Effectively, the barrel rather than the frame or receiver is considered the
"firearm"])
As an aside, I have watched the debate on concealed carry in the US with interest.
In South Africa we are legally bound to carry [handguns] 100% concealed, no
open carry, unless you are in Law Enforcement. So the question is with laws
like this, how does one stockpile firearms and ammo? And what is the best way
to get the maximum out of the minimum we are allowed to possess.
The only way that this can be done is to prepare for possible scenarios that
may develop in the future. This is the tack that we have taken:
1) Get legally
diversified with the correct calibers.
2) Keep only calibers that allow you to maximize your long term defense potential
3) Stock up on unregulated items that will allow for barter even if it’s
not one of your calibers.
Okay, so I just mentioned that one needs to have the correct calibers This
is, as everyone knows a very subjective statement. So how did we decide what
the correct calibers are? In a scenario where there is true TEOTWAWKI then
there will be a source of readily available arms and ammunition. Courtesy
of our Law Enforcement and Military. Looking at these services, we see that
the following calibers are the most common.
12 Gauge Shotgun,
5.56 NATO (AKA .223)
7.62 NATO (AKA .308)
and 9mm Parabellum (9x19mm ["Luger"]).
My logic and methodology here is to maximize my options in terms of usable
and obtainable ‘components’ while still keeping within the framework
of our legal system. I have also decided that we will not
apply for further weapons licenses as I do not want nor require the additional
infringement of my privacy nor the ‘red flags’ that
come with owning a ‘large’ firearms collection. So based on the
highest
OPSEC possible in this situation, here is what we have done.
For a handguns I have chosen a .45 ACP my wife a 9mm Parabellum
For shotguns we have both chosen 12 gauge Pump actions
For casual Sports Shooting my wife has chosen a .22 LR pistol, and I have a
scoped and suppressed .22LR rifle.
For hunting rifles I have chosen a .308 and my wife a .223
So our choices above keep us [both] at the four gun limit, no additional background
checks and gives us a broad spread of calibers that will allow us to store
primers, powder, and some ammunition.
On the unregulated side we have and are currently stocking up on the following.
Virgin and fired brass in all of the above calibers, in addition to this we
add any fired brass that we can scrounge. Various design and weight
bullet moulds with the same methodology, factory made bullets in rifle and
handgun
calibers. Reloading dies, in any and all calibers that we can get. However
we do concentrate on the dies for the brass
that we have. (There is no point in having dies and no brass.) Cleaning kits
and components, and lead and tin stocks, as well as reloading presses. For
[rifle and pistol] brass
reloading,
we have standardized on Lee brand turret presses
and the single stage RCBS Rockchucker as most can be had at very reasonable
prices on the secondhand market here. For shotgun shell reloading we have standardized
on Lee Load All.
Now the logic behind this. If ever the SHTF in a big way, we will be able to
drive off most attacks, however if this degenerates into an extended and protracted “Patriots"-like
scenario we should have all of the ‘makings’ to use captured weaponry
as well as being able to supply and reproduce the correct ammo for such captured
weaponry.
There are a few points to remember.
1.) Pressure and primer differences in military and civilian ammo. Know
what
you are doing or don’t do it!
2.) Always stay within the law, while the law is the law. Becoming an illegal ‘arms
hoarder’ will get you into a heap of trouble, which
only leaves your family at risk.
3.) OPSEC, OPSEC, OPSEC don’t brag around the braai (Barbecue) as to what
you
will do when TSHTF. Or what you have stockpiled, hidden, buried etc. Personally,
I find that very few people in South Africa have a preparedness/survivalist mentality.
If you start discussing what you are doing be circumspect in every
aspect.
Finally, as an aside, Just this last week we were given detailed information
about
the preps of a ‘new age’ religious Doomer ("The
sky is going to fall in 2012") that lives just outside a small town over
400 kilometers away. This person has told her family about her preps and this
news has
now traveled all over the country. We now know almost everything that she
has
done
including evacuation and storage details. The family (rightly?) believes she
is
a nutcase and actively ridicule her preps. [An OPSEC breach like this presents]
a very
scary
scenario.
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Letter Re: Rethinking Uncommon Rifle Chamberings
Mr. Rawles-
I read "Patriots:
A Novel Survival in the Coming Collapse" a
couple of weeks ago and enjoyed it. Thank you.
I wanted to mention: I try to follow conventional wisdom about caliber choices
for SHTF weapons.
Interestingly, in the current ammo shortage, it’s still
somewhat easy to get ammo for oddball calibers. For example, if one needs 7.5x55
Swiss, 7.65x54R Russian or 7.5x54 French, many online dealers have it in stock,
while 9mm, 45 ACP,
12 gauge buckshot, 308, 223, 7.62x39 etc., are very hard to come by. For people
who don’t have the budget to stockpile a lot of
ammo, this may justify keeping at least one [rifle chambered in a] non-standard
caliber in the arsenal. The
bolt action Russian, Swiss and French rifles are relatively inexpensive, sturdy,
and hard hitting. The fact that the ammo is in good supply during a nationwide
ammo shortage is a bonus.
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Letter Re: Canadian Gun Shows--Behind The Power Curve
James,
Just sending this letter as a quick update to the situation with ammunition
and "black
guns" or defensive weapons in Canada. Contrary to what many people think,
Canada does allow citizens to get licensed and own firearms of most types.
Basically anything except full auto weapons unless you previously owned one
years ago and were grandfathered after that particular portion of Nazi legislation
was implemented.
This last weekend I was fortunate to attend Canada's largest gun show in western
Canada located in Cow Town, Calgary, Alberta. This gun show is nothing compared
to the big shows across many of the US States (about 500 tables) however, none
the less, it is an opportunity to meet with all the big vendors from across
the country and pick up ammo and supplies with cash for OPSEC reasons,
while you still can.
Its interesting to note that like the USA, supplies are rapidly drying up as
far as defensive firearms, loaded ammo and reloading components but not yet
reaching the levels of devastation as seen in the USA., yet.
What we are seeing is this, because of the lag time with bureaucratic red tape
processing of ammunition
and firearms coming into Canada
from the USA, there are a number of good-sized stockpiles of ammo and firearms
that are still trickling through Canada Customs and into the local guns shops
six months after the orders were placed which was about the time the supply
runs began in the USA. I fear however that this will very soon no longer be
the case due to the supply issues south of the border. For those in the know,
we recognize that our window of opportunity to purchase such items is rapidly
coming to a close. Massive supply runs have not yet begun, however supplies
are drying up rapidly as preppers and those ahead of the ball are consuming
the majority of the common calibers and associated reloading components.
Also very interesting: The vast majority of gun shop
owners and vendors up here are completely asleep at the wheel where the supply
issues are concerned. Many of them actually think that the delivery trucks
will always be there to bring stock for their shelves. I've actually heard
comments
from such people as this "The government will not allow this to happen
as it will hurt the firearms industry". What have they been smoking?
When I was at the show in Calgary this last weekend, it was rather humorous
to approach many of the vendors who had the only significant quantities of
the major calibers of ammo at this show (.45 ACP, .40 S&W , 9mm , .223,
etc) and simply walk up to them, ask them how much for case lots of ammunition
and then actually haggle with them and eventually purchase it at a much lower
price than they were originally asking. If these folks knew that their supply
was near complete extinction they wouldn't even be selling it or would at least
jack the price in accordance with the principles of supply and demand. But
it was great for me, though. No complaints.
It was a good show where Canada was concerned, mainly because we mopped up
what the golden horde was willing to trade for soon to be useless paper dollars
(big laughs over that) and we were able to get the supplies that we know will
soon be gone. We have reason to believe that the last of those cross-border
ammunition imports might be done and over with and we will shortly see panic
hit the regular gun crowd in Canada who will be left to fight over the odd
box of shotgun slugs and pistol rounds at best.
Thanks for all you do. I hope this information is of interest to fellow Canadian
SurvivalBlog readers.
-
Luke
Duke
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Letter Re: Knob Creek Report on Ammunition, Magazines, and Parts
Jim,
I just got back from attending the Knob Creek Machine Gun Shoot near Fort Knox,
Kentucky. I have never seen the ammo situation as bad there as it was on April
3rd to April 5th. I took four other people that have never been there and told
them that they would
be able to satisfy their needs at this show over any other. Boy, was I wrong!
Supply on certain items was either non existent or had decreased dramatically.
Several nationwide ammo dealers didn’t even show up and I have seen them
there for 10 consecutive years.
9mm +P+ Israeli SMG ball or tracer – last November.was $100 now $150 per thousand
(Pat's Reloading told me that they had gone through four Semi-trailer loads
of the stuff and this was nearing the end of it.) I loved this stuff because
I
couldn’t
even touch the components for $100, especially tracer.
.223 Israeli ball was $375 per thousand at Pats reloading
.223 Israeli tracer was oddly less expensive than
ball at $149 per 500. I looked through mine and about 10% appears to be Lake
City (early to mid-1990s). Purchased
at Pat's Reloading
.223 Federal 2008 production XM193 was $450 per 500. Don’t even think
about what that equates to, "per case".
9mm was in somewhat short supply. I heard one supplier tell a customer that
he brought two pallet loads with him, but the dealers bought it all before
the show even opened.
7.62x39 Last November Golden Tiger was $180 a case. I didn’t see one
single case of the stuff and Wolf was $300 a case.
7.62x54R was holding steady at $160 for two sealed tins (about 880 rds)
30-06 Greek sealed tins of 240 rds was up from $59 to $100.
.308 South African $90 per battle pack of 200 rds.
While there was some pistol ammo, it was not stacked up by the pallet load
as usual and self defense loads were either in short supply or exorbitant in
price. I did somehow manage to stumble into some Blazer nickel plated case
165 grain solid point 40 S&W ammo for $15 per 50 and some .223 IMG (Guatemalan)
that was boxed but tarnished for $375 per 1,200 round case. Time to dig out
the reloader and supplies.
On the Magazine front, nearly all [of the once inexpensive and plentifull magazines]
now have jacked up [prices].
DSA still had nice metric FAL mags for $7 and 30 round [.308 L4] Bren gun mags
that fit FALs (inch and metric) for $30. I would have bought some but I am
still
mad at them at playing "the DSA waiting game" for some [FAL] receivers. I have
waited on two of those receivers now for going on a year, continually being
promised that they
"have
them in stock", and being sent my money back twice. This is my
forth go around with them 1997, 2001, 2003 with only one [order] being successful.
[Minor rant snipped.]
AK magazines: still some around for $12
G3 aluminum mags $5
[HK] G3 steel and CETME were all $15 except for one guy who still had them
for $5
Cope's Distributing was completely out of the used (law enforcement trade-in)
Glock and SIG magazines that they formerly had for $10 each. They did have
some KCI Korean Glock
magazines
for
$12
that looked respectable and see to have a good reputation so far.
SVD and Romak 3 mags had dropped from $100 to $60 (for a 4-pack) in November.
Now back up to $85.
AR parts kits were in short supply. Model 1 sales sent a reduced table and
barely had anything. a FFL dealer behind me at the Doublestar/J&T Distributing
table told me he had bought 55 full kits from Model 1 Sales and he would be
sold out in 2-3 weeks so he was buying more from J&T. The owner of J&T
told me that she ran out of stuff before the show even opened to the public
and had to send a van back to load up with more stuff. J&T’s cheapest
kit was $555 without a chrome bore. They sold out of kits by noon and were
going to have to send another van back for more.
On the AR-15 lower receiver front, a FFL dealer friend of mine there told me
that the log jam for receivers appeared to have eased as he was able to buy
them
for
$88 wholesale once again and take delivery in a reasonable amount of time.
On the whole, the current situation seems to favor those moving into the AK-74
realm. AK-74 kits were $495, receiver flats were $12, transferable receivers
were $60 and the ammo was $300 per 1,300 rds (in sealed tins). There never
seems to be much competition for that ammo. I am thinking about getting a 5.45mm
AK.
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Letter Re: Lessons Learned by the Victim of a Home Burglary
Jim,
I’m writing you today after our rural home/retreat was broken into while
we were at work. I thought it would never happen to me, Oh, was
I so very wrong. First things first, thank you for convincing me to purchase
a safe and after reading the suggestion many times in you blog I eventually
bolted it down. This is the only thing that saved me from losing the
safe and all of its contents. The Sheriff told me of another burglary
where the didn’t have his very large ("they can’t
move it--its too heavy") safe bolted down and they took the whole thing.
After much thinking, online research and discussions with the local locksmith/safe
dealer with 40 years of experience, I have some suggestions that may be of use
to my fellow SurvivalBlog readers:
ANCHOR YOUR SAFE!!! I cannot stress this enough. I had a fairly
low end safe and they were not able to get into it (they almost did) nor were
they able get it out of the house. The Sheriff's deputy estimated they worked
on it for two to three hours to no avail. These thieves tore a wall out to try to gain more access to it.
I have decided that a safe is my final line of defense from a burglar.
First thing, put gates at the entrance to your retreat and lock them as I now
have. Put all tools out of sight as the thieves used my hammers, pry bars to
work on the safe. Reinforce the door jambs in your home. I have added 3-inch
screws to the door hinges and a steel plate behind the striker plates with
3 inch screws. If your budget permits add an alarm with an outside strobe light.
This may or may not help depending on where your home is located. We are on
a paved county road with our retired neighbor who has a line of sight to our
home a quarter mile away. If it would happen again our neighbor would be there
in short order. As for dogs, I don’t know, I have three and they did
not stop them. From what I have gathered unless you have a trained security
dog they don’t help
much, they just kick them out the door and go about their business. Don’t leave
keys/combinations in your home while away. They opened every cabinet door,
drawer, trunk, dresser, night stand, picture frames and closet in the house
and emptied them. There was only one cabinet door they didn’t open which
was the one with my truck keys in it which was in the driveway.
Don’t put anything in or under the beds, ours were all flipped upside
down. Don’t leave any firearms out and loaded while away, you don’t
want to come home and be confronted by your own weapon in the hands of a criminal.
Do what you can now before a burglary to make your home less inviting
to a thief. If they want in they will get in
given enough time. I feel bad saying this but if your neighbors’ home is less secure than yours they will go visit your neighbor. My worry now
is they have been in my home, will they be back since they know I may have
something worth getting.
After a lengthy discussion with the locksmith/safe technician. The strongest
way to secure to concrete is the Powers/Rawl brand wedge bolt +. Don’t
use the lead "bullets" or drive in anchors. He told me a story of removing
16 safes for a chain of stores that were bolted down with these style anchors.
If you can get a pry bar started under one corner you can pull them right out. The wedge bolts cut threads in the concrete with no inserts.
He stated you will pull the floor out of the safe before the anchors pull out.
If you’re anchoring to a wood floor and you have an unfinished basement
you should use a steel plate. Use 1/8” or 3/16” [thick] flat steel
plate large enough to catch at least three floor joists. Screw the plate to
the bottom
of the floor joist. Use an extra-long drill bit to drill down from the safe
thru the steel plate. Get hardened bolts long enough to be installed from the
bottom, cut a piece of pipe slightly larger than the bolt but shorter than
the floor joist is tall and slide it over the bolt as you are installing it.
This will make it very difficult to cut the bolts as the pipe will spin freely
on the bolt. Be sure to "double nut" them inside the safe. The last step is to weld the bolt heads to the steel
plate.
Thanks for all the good information on your blog. I hope maybe someone reading
your blog my find some of this info useful and maybe prevent someone from entering
their home. I didn’t sleep well for a week, the
wife and I are still a little on edge and everyone who drives by is suspect!
This makes you feel very insecure knowing someone has been in your home and
went thru all your things. I wish I would have made our place more secure before
and maybe this would never have happened! The Sheriff told me this is getting
much more frequent and I agree it will get worse. God Bless, - Jason in Missouri.
JWR Replies: Thanks for that letter, Jason! Hopefully it
will motivate folks to up their level of home security and vigilance. I agree
that the home gun safe should be the last line of defense. One intermediate
line
of
defense
is concealment.
Burglars cannot attack a safe if they don't know it exists. See
the SurvivalBlog archives
for a variety
of articles and letters that discuss hidden rooms, such as this
one, or this
one, both from
2007.
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Letter Re: Ammunition Shortages in U.S. Might Become Chronic
Hi Jim,
A man with the Customer Service department at Midway explained that backorders
are expected to continue and there appears to be no reduction in demand.
Browsing
their
web site,
I
see 'expected' delivery dates pushing further into the future, and up to
six weeks delay for the less expensive and common caliber hunting bullet,
mostly .30
caliber
bullets. Many premium bullets are also on 'back order' since my last visit.
And now, even less common caliber bullets are backordered as well as other
reloading components and reloading tools. The shortage at Cabela's also
continues. The Civilian Marksman Program (CMP),
advises that delivery could take 100 days for their still inexpensive M2
ball (.30-06) for the M1 Garand [and
many other] rifles.
I believe that you've mentioned the possibility that "Ballistic
Wampum" could
be more useful than silver for the purposes of barter. The ammunition and component
shortage is making a me believer. If events unfold as they might, the shortage
could become increasingly severe and chronic. It may actually now be easier
to obtain silver than bullets or certain and popular loaded ammunition. Over
the last two years, I've done better with ammunition than silver, and have
decided to trade in silver if necessary, for bullets. In memory of the Lone
Ranger,
silver would be a poor substitute for lead as the sectional density of a sliver
bullet would be significantly less and therefore less effective. As I am no
Lone Ranger, I would need all the advantages possible, and rather have the
good stuff.
More folks are waking up everyday, and I suspect most of them will feel the need
to protect and feed themselves. Many of those folks will be without the means
to do as they discover that they cannot afford buy a good supply or any supply,
and if able, may find that shipment could be months into the future. The Fed's
recent action makes continued and escalating hyper inflation a given. If delivery
in months away, prices might change, or delivery might become impossible at some
point. I'd error on the side of caution. - E.L.
« Letter Re: Private Gated Communities May Not be Gated After All |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Life's Lessons and the Foundations of Preparedness, by A.B.
We may soon depend on all of what we have learned over the years. Putting
all of the threads of knowledge together into a tapestry of self-sufficiency,
and survival capabilities, is part of the lifelong quest for our family’s
security. We learn from many sources and experiences such as: family, church,
friends, teachers, teammates, co-workers, reading books and SurvivalBlog, and
hopefully from our mistakes.
Preparedness Skills from our Grandmas and Grandpas
The foundation for preparedness begins with my childhood in Michigan. We
lived in Lansing where my great-grandmother was next door and my grandmother
lived
next door to her. My father was born in great-grandma’s house after
the family moved to the city during the early 1900s. My sisters and I spent
weekends and summers alternately at my mom’s family dairy farm, which
was just outside of the city, and at my dad’s family cabin “up
north”. These were the richest times of my life. We knew all of our
grandparents and some of our great-grandparents very well. My great-great-grandfather
still
lived in the old log cabin when I was born in 1956. We have been fortunate
to have had five generations alive consistently from then until now. The
wealth of love and knowledge you gain from your extended family is irreplaceable.
The “old timers” told stories of hardship during the great depression
and the dust bowl era (we live an area that was the largest prairie east
of the Mississippi.) Memories of crop failures with tales of early and late
frosts
were passed down. There were also hunting and fishing stories passed down
as we learned to hunt and fish with older family members. There were bigger
than
life lumberjack stories and stories from Prohibition and the World Wars.
I learned to safely handle and accurately shoot a .22 rifle with peep sights
when I was six or seven years old. I walked the roads with my grandpa squirrel
hunting. We ice fished on local lakes and went to Tip-Up
Town USA every year.
All
of
this adds to ones persona and the early experience helps awaken the necessary “survivalist” traits.
On a working dairy farm you rapidly learn about life (and death). Animal
husbandry and caring for the land lead to sustainability. Animals do become
food and
harvesting the crops sometimes seems little reward for the hard work. The
milking must be done every day and chores do not wait. As a kid I learned
to drive
tractors and pick-ups to and from the fields. We mowed, bailed and then stacked
the hay in the mow. Alfalfa, oats and corn were the field crops. Pigs, chickens,
and sheep were raised along with the dairy cows and we cleaned the barns
and spread manure.
Knowledge is passed down from generation to generation such as when to plant,
where to plant, when to harvest, and how to raise the animals. There were
many topics of conversations at the Sunday breakfast table. Many things are
debated
and discussed after chores and before Church. Most times the conversations
continued outside the Church after the sermon. It was the only time you saw
the other farmers. When you are a little guy you tended to be quiet, pay
attention and learn.
Grandpa was a farmer and Grandma was a one room school teacher. Grandma also
taught vacation bible school during the summer break. Us kids learned how
to tend good gardens and helped preserve the food we raised. We took care
of the
barn animals while the uncles milked. We hauled water to the bull pen and
helped milk as we got older. Survival skill sets from the farm come from
being part
of a close knit community with a solid work ethic. There are strong religious
underpinnings with good people engaged in caring for one another as well
as the animals and the land.
Preparedness from "Roughing It”
The log cabin “up north” had a well-house for getting water and
an outhouse for getting rid of water. There was a wood fired cook stove for
heat and kerosene lamps to play cards under. There was a red checkered oilcloth
on the table with cane chairs around it. The place was originally homesteaded
by my great-great-grandfather in the late 1800s (a few electric lights
were added at some point.) We used to go up on Friday night after Dad or
Grandpa got out of work. The next morning started with an awakening trip to
the outhouse
and then fetching a bucket of water from the well house and kindling for
the wood stove. On a cold morning you stepped lively until the fire was going.
Once the stove was hot, Grandma would cook buttermilk pancakes on a griddle
that my great-grandmother had used in the lumber camp. Eggs and bacon sizzled
in a cast iron skillet. Clothes were washed on a washboard in a wash tub and
then
hung
out to dry. You took a bath in the river. During the summer we would fish
morning and evening and water ski on the nice days. The family summer vacation
was
spent camping in a tent along the river or at a state park. The old cabin
was also used for small game hunting in the early fall and deer camp in the
late
fall / winter. We would take walks in the woods and look for morels and other
edible things like may apples, hickory nuts or raspberries and huckleberries.
Animal tracks were learned and followed with hopes of a glimpse. Life was
considered sacred unless needed for food and being a part of nature became
obvious. A
leave no trace and waste nothing ethic was being born.
Opportunities for further wilderness and pioneering skill development were
provided by Cub Scouts and Boy Scouts. My mom and dad were actively involved
in Scouting when I was growing up. Teamwork and sharing responsibilities
for the group were learned. Outdoor cooking and keeping things sanitary were
heavily
emphasized. Food poisoning is no joke – we had one patrol that damn near
killed us with their meal. We learned to wash our hands and boil the crap out
of everything. Hiking and backpacking skills were beginning to be developed
in the Scouts. We day hiked a 20 miler once a year on the Johnny Appleseed
Trail - the Scouts version of the death march. You had to carry a full pack
if you wanted the patch. We also hiked the Pokagon Trail in northern Indiana
and learned to camp in the winter.
While living in Pennsylvania (later in life) I started winter backpacking with
a few of my buddies. We went in the winter both for the solitude it offered,
and
to learn the special skill sets required for survival in the cold. There
are beautiful views from Seven Springs and other spots along the Laurel Highlands
Trail during the winter. This experience then led to the development of technical
mountaineering skills. The books Basic Rockcraft, Advanced Rockcraft and
Knots
for Climbers were memorized along with study of the book Mountaineering:
The Freedom of the Hills. Skills were practiced and ingrained.
My first solo backpacking / climbing trip came in the summer of 1980 in the
Organ Mountains of southern New Mexico. I later solo climbed most of the
4,000 and 5,000
footers in New England (many in winter). I met a like minded climber on one
of those hikes and we made a summit bid on Mt. Rainier in June of 1998. I
also began
the solo circumnavigation on the Wonderland Trail that year. I set the first
tracks both that year and when I completed the circuit in June of 2001. Map
and compass skills were required. Primitive camping
while carrying everything you
need to survive for two weeks is a tough proposition. It was tough in my 30s
and 40s. It’s even harder now that I am in my 50s. G.O.O.D. to
the deep woods is doable but it would be a hard life.
Responsibility and Teamwork
We learned to be responsible and self-sufficient during our childhood. We learned
to play without other kids around and had chores to do for our allowance. I
learned to gather the wood and light a fire as soon as I was old enough. You
pumped the
water and filled the reservoir if you wanted warm water for washing up. You
learned to use guns and knives as tools while you learned hunting techniques
and cleaned
the game for the table. Being a responsible hunter meant taking ethical shots
and using what you kill. Catching and cleaning fish, then cooking or smoking
them were all part of being a good fisherman. To go along with these survival
skills you also need the ability to share knowledge and work as a team.
Most of the skills you learn will help you to fend for yourself one way or
another. The only problem is summed up with the statement “no man is an island”.
You will need others sooner or later. My sisters and I developed basic teamwork
skills while setting up camp. The girls helped mom and I helped dad. We had a “system”.
This was carried further in Scouting. Some Patrols set up tents while another
set up the kitchen. These valuable lessons were used later in life as I went
through boot camp and during service in the military. I served on small boats
as part of a search and rescue team in the USCG.
Teamwork helps to overcome the steep learning curve and high risk of being
a self-sufficient survivalist. You can do things as a team exponentially quicker
and safer than you can by yourself. Your bunkmate becomes your partner in boot
camp and later becomes your shipmate. You learn “one hand for yourself
and one hand for the boat”. As a team you can survive what would kill you
alone. In a bad storm someone has to steer while someone bails out the boat.
One person couldn’t do it. Avalanche in the back country is another perfect
example - by yourself you are probably dead. Doing things alone is great - but
it may cost you your life. Skill and knowledge can’t cover your a** like
a buddy. It’s nice to have someone else on the rope with you; they are
your only hope.
Teaching everyone at least something you know and learning from everyone something
you don’t know can only make the group stronger. If someone gets sick
or is tired someone else can step up. CPR is
a good example here. In the back country one person can’t help himself.
One person helping may bring back the life but it better happen quickly. Two
people allow you to send someone for
help while
rendering aid until you are too tired to continue. Three people allow almost
indefinite support. Two can alternate CPR while waiting for the one who left
for help to return with the defibrillator. If help is real far away, then it’s
done. There is a point of no return. Remote locations usually cross that point
which is a distinct disadvantage (unless the SHTF).
Without teamwork you will usually die if something bad happens. Everyone has
to be a good shot. Everyone needs to be able to render first aid. The group
is only as strong as the weakest link and precious resources are spent covering
someone’s a** that’s not up to speed. Teach and learn and cross train.
Remember what you did as a kid and don’t sell the kid’s of today
short. Teach them the skills they need and allow them to grow into the responsibility.
Being part of a team or extended family that functions like a team is fun. The
action of being responsible for one another is at the root of any team.
The
Prepared Family
The family is the primary source of knowledge. Some survival skills to learn
right along with reading, writing and arithmetic are: swimming, knot tying,
fire building under all conditions, where to get water and how to make it safe
to
drink, safe gun handling and accurate shooting, hunting in fields and the woods,
fishing in rivers and on lakes, first aid, camping, boating, gardening, making
things “homemade”. You can’t start learning or teaching these
things too soon.
10 years ago we moved back home to Michigan after living all over the USA.
I had come home for my Grandpa’s funeral and was returning to New England.
Something was wrong and I couldn’t put my finger on it. That’s when
the light came on and as I drove it became apparent that I was going the wrong
way – both figuratively and literally. We were chasing the so called “American
Dream”. Losing my grandfather and returning to the north woods had shown
me where home really is. It is with family and God and where your roots are.
I had drifted away from the true values I had learned early in life.
I resigned my position, cashed out the 401(k), and bought the homestead from
grandma. We planted 24 fruit trees and installed irrigation systems for the
gardens. We
pruned the grape vines back and tended to the asparagus beds. My wife renewed
the old flower beds and I have replaced the split rail fence. We re-roofed
everything. The folks put down another well up the field and had another septic
system installed
for their travel trailer. We had a 100 amp power drop installed and we also
buried a power cable from the field to the trailer for a 12 volt system (small
scale
solar and wind).
I once again could use guns after living in the tyranny of Massachusetts. (I
refused to get an Firearms ID card so my guns never left the house in 16 years.)
I taught a niece
and nephew to shoot with the same .22 that grandpa used to teach me with almost
50 years ago. My nephew, now an 8th grader, got his first deer this past year.
No one believed him when he came home and told them. He did it on his own.
Things have now come full circle in our life. My grandma lives with us in her
old house through the summer. My sisters are both Grandmas themselves now and
they are taking care of our mom and dad. The kids have great-grandparents and
a great-great grandmother. My understanding wife of thirty years and I live
here on the homestead as stewards of the family heritage. The whole family
gets together
up here once or twice a year. We know how to provide for and take care of each
other. If the SHTF my sisters and the rest of the family will head up here
to the homestead and once again adopt the ways of our Great-Great Grandpa and
Grandma.
Everything we have learned through our lives will serve us well. Skill sets
from the north woods and from the farm are derived from living simple, living
manual
and living with nature as part of nature.
We used to fall to sleep on a feather tick mattress while listening to rain
tapping over our heads in the loft of the old log cabin. Bedtime stories were
told as
we drifted to sleep and the whippoorwills sang into the night. We didn’t
think that the day would come that just about all of what we learned from our
family and from our life would come into play. Thank God for our tight family
and all of the distilled knowledge passed down to us. I now live in a home
built over the site of the original log cabin and now we have 7 generations
since my
great-great grandparents first cleared this piece of land. It looks like we
will be talking of another “Great Depression” soon and the complete
cycle renews. Do we learn from our mistakes?
Preparedness Skills and Materials
We’re preparing for the future and I hope to teach what I can to as many
people as I can before it’s over. We can survive well if we draw on one
another’s strengths and knowledge. It starts with the family and moves
out to the extended family then to the neighbors and on to town folk and into
the blogosphere. Many people have grown up in similar circumstances and have
similar experiences. We must practice our learned skills and trades all of
the time to stay fresh and perpetuate our way of life. We must keep acquiring
new
skills and more materials for survival. Preparedness is a constant quest.
Survival trades that I've learned:
ASE Certified Master Auto Technician
Journeyman Machinist and Apprentice Welder.
Experience with all aspects of house construction from framing to finish work,
including house wiring and plumbing for water, gas and DWV systems.
Professional ditch digger and home brewer of beer.
Survival tools, equipment, and material acquired over the years:
Comprehensive set of Snap-On hand tools, diagnostic equipment and garage.
Several redundant computers and complete wi-fi coverage with satellite internet.
All of the carpentry, plumbing and electrical tools needed to build a house.
All of the tools required to garden both manually and with gas engines.
Fence building tools and supplies.
5,500 watt gas generator.
Wood stove and saws, axes, mauls, wedges.
Stores of food, bits of gold and silver, books and manuals, and lots of lead.
Survival firearms battery:
Auto-Ordinance Model 1911A1 .45 ACP (I qualified Marksman in USCG)
Stag Arms AR-15 with 20” Bull barrel, 5.56 (I qualified Expert in USCG)
Marlin .22 WMR (squirrel / varmint gun)
Mossberg .22 LR (shot this since 1962)
Ruger M77 Mk II .270 Win. (my deer rifle)
Winchester Model 94 .32 Win. Special (got my first deer with Grandpa’s
gun)
Mossberg 12 ga. 3 -1/2” Ulti-Mag in Camo (turkey / duck / goose gun)
Winchester Model 1897 12 ga. 2-3/4” (I've shot this gun since 1969)
Reloading equipment and supplies (loads for Barnes Bullets)
Survival Quest 2009 (the final pieces I'll need for grid down and
"zombies"):
Ruger M77 Mk II .300 Win Mag with optics
A manual water pump (the old pump is
gone)
Wind turbine and photovoltaic panels for water pumping and power generation.
Battery bank and inverter
More kerosene lamps
Night Vision for the AR-15
Radios
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Letter Re: Supply and Demand at American Gun Stores
James,
We finally caught up on magazine sales in late February, filling our
last outstanding back orders, and I actually have a limited number of C Products
AR-15 magazines in stock and some Magpul PMags (which I really like). The
manufacturers tend to send out a half of an order and then a few weeks later,
the balance of it. They are clearly allocating inventory across their customer
base and I would estimate that they are running two to three months behind.
The delivery situation is getting worse, and my guess is that new orders
placed today would likely arrive in June or July.
Almost anything related to AR-15s/M4s is backordered. Spring
sets, repair kits, accessories, bolts and bolt carriers, etc. Even magazine
repair kits have dried up. I probably
have close to $4,000 worth of merchandise on back order from Brownell's for
our web-based store. Prices are rising as well. Wholesale cost on Glock magazines
have jumped to what used to be our retail sales price. We've seen a 60%
jump in the
wholesale price since the election.
The ability of these producers to ramp up production is limited. Many are running
extra shifts or hours on existing machines, but none of them want to add new
equipment because the capital expense will take so long to recoup. If the law
changes and their products are suddenly banned, their income will drop off
a cliff and the new debt burden could just force them into bankruptcy that
much sooner. So the pipeline is constrained due to the uncertain future. This
is another lesson in why it is better to prepare sooner than later.
My advice for anyone who wants to buy ammunition by the case lot and black
rifles is to try GunBroker.com.
I do not sell there, but I have been doing some personal buying there. Sellers
have items in stock, but prices are not
low as the auction format tends to float prices up when demand is high. Still,
you can buy ammo by the case, complete guns, complete lower [receiver]s and
stripped lowers as well as magazines and accessories.
I wish you continued success, safety and security, - Dave of (Captain
Dave's)
JWR Replies: That matches what I have been seeing. As recently
as September, an AR-15 "Lower Parts Kit" (the hammer, trigger, sear, pistol
grip, trigger guard and assorted
pins, springs
and detents needed to complete building a stripped AR-15
receiver) was selling for as little as $49. Today, they are very scarce, and
selling on Gunbroker.com for as much as $125 each! There are so many folks
frantically parting-up ARs that there is a genuine shortage of not just the
receivers themselves,
but also the little "fiddly bits" piece parts!
« Letter Re: Best Shotgun Pellet Size for Home Defense? |Main| Letter Re: Supply and Demand at American Gun Stores »
Letter Re: Some Observations at a Recent Gun Show
JWR,
I attended a gun show in a Southern state this weekend and wanted to share
my observations. I got there very early and was among the first ten in line.
By the time we were allowed to enter, the line was out the door of the building and around the corner. I'd estimate
around three hundred people in line. I left the show a mere hour later and
the room probably had in excess of eight-hundred people and the line was still quite long.
Ammo, of course, went fast. I was able to acquire all the ammo I desired, in
all my favorite calibers, with no problem, from my regular favorite vendor.
His prices were the same as four weeks earlier, which both surprised and pleased
me. Other ammo vendors were doing brisk business, as well, but some of their
prices were dramatically higher. By Sunday afternoon, my vendor had extinguished
their bulk ammo supply in .223.
My attendance was centered on finding a good deal on an AR-15 full upper, at
a decent price (a relative term, of course). Most AR-15 full uppers were going
for between $700-$1100, depending on manufacturer and features. The vendor from whom I'd planned on buying was,
surprisingly, not there. The very last table I came to, however, had five AR-15
carbine A3 uppers, made by Model 1 Sales, the vendor from whom I'd hoped to buy. Mine came out to $611
with bolt carrier assembly and charging handle, which was easily the best deal
at the show, since I'd seen the same basic configurations for $100-$500 more. Most astonishing was the deal I found on
Sunday when a vendor was laying out a used DPMS AR-15A2 in excellent condition
for a scant $799. She wouldn't hold it for me and by the time I returned with the necessary funding five minutes
later, it had been sold. Most fully assembled ARs, used or otherwise, were
going for $1,100-$2,500.
Magazines are definitely going up in price, dramatically. The [formerly
inexpensive fairly plentiful US government] contract O'Kay Industries AR-15 mags are
now $12-20 in used condition, and new ones are $15-25. P-MAGs at the show were
$28-35 and obviously becoming
scarce.
Springfield XD9 factory mags were going for $28-40, way up from the $21 each
that I had paid
just two months ago.
One last note. I picked up an ARMS rear sight #40 for $110 and even managed
to run across a brand new Vortex flash hider for $60 (I've been searching for
one for several months now). Average prices there, I guess, maybe a little high.
I've also noticed more and more private sales by people buying and selling
person to person, increasing one's odds of finding a good deal. Just the sort
of activity that makes Charles Schumer's hoplophobic blood curdle. I spent $1,500 at this show and got probably half
of what I could have bought a year ago for the same money. I suspect this time
next year will find me saying the same thing again. Ordnance...at inordinate prices.
May God bless your continued endeavors, - Shrike
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Letter Re: Best Shotgun Pellet Size for Home Defense?
Sir;
I recently got a Mossberg "Mariner" [12 gauge pump action] shotgun
as my main home defense type gun. What size shot should I use for home defense?
(The owner
of my
nearby gun
shop
said
to
use
#8 bird shot,
since
buckshot or rifle[d] slugs
'will go
though
two
houses." Is that true?) Thx, - Perry Noid in St. Paul, Minnesota
JWR Replies: I'm afraid that your local gun shop owner was
spouting some oft-quoted urban folklore. For some genuine, Grade-A, tested truth
on this subject, see this
Box 'OTruth article.
For what it's worth, I am still a big believer in
using #4 Buckshot for home defense. To my mind, it strikes the ideal balance
between penetration and likelihood of a high number of vital organ pellet hits.
The
standard factory 12 gauge 2-3/4" load of #4 buckshot contains 27 pellets
of .24" diameter. That is definitely a home-invasion countermeasure!
« Two Letters Re: Advice on Night Vision Gear |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Did the American Indians Have it Right?, by MMJ
In these trying times when civilizations are at the brink of disaster and
many people are already in personal collapse, we should look back through history
to find out how to salvage what we have and how to survive what is to come. [Minor
rant snipped.] It seems that economic collapse is imminent and that at some
point in the near future it is going to be every man for
himself. As we watch countries collapse, global economies fail and people
across the world starve and die, I ask myself has any culture or civilization
in history gotten it right?
The nomadic hunter-gatherer lifestyle led by the American Indians may be the
way that many in the future may need to survive. The thought of a
survival retreat is nice, but what if a toxic gas cloud is coming your way?
Or a band of starving armed men and women discover your location and decide
that you have what they want? Are you equipped for a small arms battle? Lets
face it, most of us are not. Many of us still need to live in an urban environment
to make a living (while we still have the need) and having a stocked retreat
is just not feasible. When the sh*t hits the fan you have to ask yourself,
will you have enough time or even be able to get to your survival retreat?
For most of us the answer is simply no. So how can we prepare
for the impending collapse that most certainly awaits all of us? Thinking like
an Indian may
be the answer to your concerns. Mobility can be the key to survival. Having
a plan of escape for several different scenarios and banding together with
other like-minded people and loved ones who have also planned ahead to deal
with the inevitable collapse of our society. Going where you can survive for
short periods of time comfortably and being able to use the natural resources
available to you wherever you may end up, can be the answer to survival for
you and your loved ones.
The Indians moved with the food, with the climate in small tribes, which was
best suited to their survival. They learned to use what was provided by nature
to live, wild edibles and medicinal uses of plants, as well as some amount
of farming and of course hunting. But they also learned to take only what they
needed so that when they were to return they would have what they needed again.
This is a lesson that most of us in modern society have long since forgotten.
We have for so long here in America lived the life of gluttony (which has probably
led to collapse of more societies than we realize) that when the end comes
most of us will not know what to do or how to survive, which will not end pleasantly
for those of us stuck in the urban areas. Those of us who plan ahead and have
the ability to survive on the go while getting out of the way of the sh*t storm
that will be left behind in most urban areas after the end comes. We will be
the ones that will thrive in the face of adversity. We will be the ones left
to create a better way--a way that works.
As I contemplate the future happenings I know with utmost certainty that the
plan that I have derived will keep my loved ones and me safe and out of harm's
way. For I have thought and planned like an Indian would, made preparations
to survive on the go with a minimal amount of supplies but with the knowledge
required to get what I need from what nature has to offer. But you may ask
what if nature is damaged beyond repair, then how will you survive? Well my
answer is simple, at that point nobody will survive and mankind will cease
to exist. A gloomy thought but still one worthy of contemplation.
The reality
is there is no right or wrong answer or single philosophy that is the definite
end all to be all correct way to do it for any situation. Survival is fluid
and every situation has to be dealt with accordingly. Creativity as well as
preparation will see you through. Remember that nature taught the Indians
how to survive, they didn’t have books, schools, survival manuals or
hospitals etc… and they did just fine until the European man came with
their gluttony and took from them what was theirs, to exploit it for their
gain
and greed.
As I end my letter, I leave you with this:
“Prepare yourself with the knowledge that you hope you never
have to use, and you and yours will be just fine.” - MMJ
JWR
Adds: I will append MMJ's article with the caveat that based on
studies
of skeletal remains, the average life expectancy for pre-Columbian
Native Americans was only 18.6 years. That was
before white men brought with them European diseases. As Hobbes
put it so succinctly: "...the life of man, solitary, poor, nasty, brutish,
and
short."
A pampered sedentary lifestyle may be bad for one's cholesterol numbers,
but a hunter-gatherer nomadic lifestyles is no picnic.
At this juncture, for the sake of balance I'll also re-post something that
I originally posted to SurvivalBlog back in September of 2005:
You should discard any fantasies that you might have had about strapping
on a backpack and disappearing into nearby National Forest to “live
off the land.” IMHO,
that is an invitation to disaster. Too many things can go wrong: You will
lack
sufficient
shelter. You will not be able to carry enough food reserves. Your one rifle
and your one pistol, and your one axe, once lost or broken
will leave you vulnerable and unable to provide for your sustenance or self
defense. Any
illness or injury
could be life threatening. Even just a dunking in a stream in mid-winter
could cost you your life. Also, consider how many thousands of urbanites
will probably
try to do the same thing. Even if you manage to avoid encounters with them,
those legions of people foraging simultaneously will quickly deplete the
available wild game in many regions. Furthermore, on your own you won’t
be able to maintain sufficient security. (You must sleep, after all!) For
countless
reasons, playing “Batman in the Boondocks” just won’t work.
So forget about the "one pack" solution, other than as a last resort--for
example, in the event that your retreat is overrun.
Any of you that do not live at your intended retreat location year
round should
have a “Get out of Dodge” (G.O.O.D.)
pack ready at all times. Keep it in the trunk of your car in case circumstances
force you to hike all or part of the way to your retreat. (A sub-optimal
situation, as described in my novel "Patriots".)
Be sure to inspect your G.O.O.D. pack regularly and rotate any first aid
supplies, chemical light sticks, jerky, dried fruit, or other perishables.
While MMJ's planned approach of traveling in a group is preferable to a solo “Batman
in the Boondocks”, I still have my doubts about its viability, especially
in harsh climates.
« Economics and Investing: |Main| Two Letters Re: Advice on Night Vision Gear »
Three Letters Re: The Feeding Frenzy Continues--Gun Store Shelves are Depleted
JWR:
I saw the article on how Cabela’s shares surged based on gun sales.
Let me tell you, we are in the midst of a feeding frenzy here in Colorado.
First, its not just guns, its all of the accessories as well. I had to return
some items from Christmas to Sportsman’s Warehouse and found that the
whole gun department was basically empty. They only had some black powder firearms
and a couple of shotguns. Nothing else. I had run into this before Christmas
when I bought my two oldest boys new elk rifles – and got the last .308
bolt action and the last .30-06 bolt action to be had. But I figured after Christmas things would be better. Well, they
are not. So unless you shoot something
odd like a .22-250 forget getting ammunition right now let alone a gun. And
the cleaning kits were sold out as well. And holsters, ammo belts – you
name it and if it was shooting related it was gone.
Now in my wanderings in the store I also found that communications
gear is also disappearing off the shelves. I had a brief conversation with the kid
that was working there and it turns out that this is another trend they are
seeing. Basically all of the walkie-talkie units that can take ear buds or
microphones are gone. The only things left are some cheap FRS units. The same
thing was at work with the flashlights – all of the better units (like
the Surefire models) were gone. I begin to wonder what is at work here – am
I being paranoid or is this the next run on “near tactical” equipment?
Now I shoot as much as I can when I am in country so I go through a lot of
reloading supplies and bulk ammunition. I have been told by some of the national
dealers that I buy from (in bulk lots of 10 cases per caliber per order) that
they are almost all sold out as well. One sales person related to me that they
had run through over 10,000 cases of .223 that week alone and could not keep
any in stock. Common calibers are gone – 9mm, .45 ACP, .38/.357, .223,
.308, 7.62x39 – and less common ones such as the .40 are hard to get.
So unless you happen to be shooting something that is very uncommon, keep your
eyes open. I did however with a week of scrounging manage to come up with
one box of 7.62 match grade ammo – the 175 grain M118 loading. Fortunately
my long range precision gun likes this ammo so I bought it.
This is one trend that if you were not way out in front and loading up on ammunition,
guns, and accessories, you would not be able to catch up now. - Hugh D.
Hi Jim,
FYI, just got done shopping at Midway [for ammunition handloading components]
and all of the .308 150 grain soft nosed bullets priced at $25.00/100 and
under are
gone.
All
gone!
This
includes
all round
nose and flat point for 30-30. Only some of the
premium stuff is available. The next best
deal is a Lapua 150 grain at $42.00/100. Guess I'll have to top off with
the only decent spitzer, a 125 grain Sierra Pro-Hunter at $22/100 if I can't
find 150 grainers
elsewhere. I suppose these can be reliable through a[n M1]
Garand and are
certainly adequate for deer. I've also shopped all over for loaded 9mm Luger
JHP and
it's all gone as well. Yes I shoulda got the XD-.45 instead,
yet common ammunition that can be shared with the rest of the family and
in case the gun fails
the ammo would not be wasted. I have plenty, but more would be nice. The
same can be said for the cheap 7.62x39 and M2 ball (.30-06). All gone, everywhere.
There does appear to be some 7.62 NATO out
there.
Cabela's seems to have a fair selection of all .308 spire point bullets
and 9mm/.45ACP
JHP,
and a very limited amount (500 rounds) of the cheap 7.62x39, and limited
quantities
of .223 and .308.
The run on ammunition continues and is amazing. A report from the latest
gun show in our area described [buyers with] dollies stacked with cases
that emptied the place within
three hours. What is the most shocking is that reloading components are also
disappearing. - E.L.
Jim:
News of the [U.S.]Attorney General asking for renewal of the Assault Weapons
ban (on behalf of Obama) went out across the Internet last night [Wednesday,
Feb.
25th.] Here was the result I saw: There was a line of about eight guys
in front of my local gun shop this morning, waiting for the doors to open.
This was at 9 a.m. on a Thursday morning, mind you. I was one of them.
Most of the guys looked to be in their 30s and 40s--so we were taking time
away from work to be there. (In my case, it was a "dental emergency".
Obama has
me grinding my teeth at night!) We got in the door, and I immediately saw there
wasn't much left on the shelves--mostly just pump [shot]guns
and
bolt-action
[rifle]s.
There
were
just
two centerfire semi[automatic]s in the rack: some POS no-name
AK that
looked like it was built from a beater parts kit, and one of those woosie S&W AR[-15] clones
with no flash hider on but with the Mossy-Breakup camouflage
paint job. Those both sold in the first few minutes. The owner said that he
doesn't
expect
[to
receive] any more black
guns for three or four months!
One thing you definitely
had nailed: They did not have a single high-cap magazine
left in the store,
except the
one
that
came
in the
mag well of the AK I mentioned.
I cleaned out the last of their .45
and .308 ammo--just a few boxes. There was not a round of 9mm, .223, of
7.62 [x39mm] Russian to be found. Those was some slim pickin's! I wonder:
What will they have
left by
Saturday night? - Ray H. in Virginia
« Letter Re: Real World Observations on Fighting Crime and Criminals |Main| Note from JWR: »
Depression Proof Jobs for a 20 Year Depression - Part 2: Developing a Home-Based Business
Yesterday, in Part1, I discussed the "safe" and counter-cyclical occupations
for the unfolding economic depression. Today, I'd like to talk about one specific
approach:
self-employment
with a home-based business.
I posted most the following back in late 2005, but there are some important
points that are worth repeating:
The majority of SurvivalBlog readers that I talk with tell
me that they live in cities or suburbs, but they would like to live full
time at a retreat in a rural area. Their complaint is almost always the same: "...but
I'm not self-employed. I can't afford to live in the country because I can't
find work there, and the nature of my work doesn't allow telecommuting." They
feel stuck.
Over the years I've seen lots of people "pull the plug" and
move to the boonies with the hope that they'll find local work once
they get there. That usually doesn't work. Folks soon find that the most
rural jobs typically pay little more than minimum wage and they are often
informally
reserved for folks that were born and raised in the area. (Newcomers from
the big city certainly don't have hiring priority!)
My suggestion is to start a second income stream, with a
home-based business. Once you have that business started, then
start another one. There are numerous advantages to this
approach, namely:
You can get out of debt
You can generally build the businesses up gradually, so
that you don't need to quit your current occupation immediately
By working at home you will have the time to home school your children and
they will learn about how to operate a business.
You can live at your retreat full time. This will contribute to your self-sufficiency,
since you will be there to tend to your garden, fruit/nut trees, and livestock.
If one of your home-based businesses fails, then you can fall back on the
other.
Ideally, for someone that is preparedness-minded, a home-based business should
be something that is virtually recession proof, or possibly even depression
proof. Ask yourself: What are you good at? What knowledge or skills
do you have that you can utilize. Next, consider which businesses will flourish
during bad times. Some good examples might include:
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctioning of preparedness-related products.
Locksmithing
Gunsmithing
Medical Transcription
Accounting
Repair/refurbishment businesses
Freelance writing
Blogging (with paid advertising) If you have knowledge about a niche industry
and there is currently no authoritative blog on the subject, then start your
own!
Mail order/Internet sales of entertainment items. (When times get bad, people
still set aside a sizable percentage of their income for "escape" from
their troubles. For example, video rental shops have done remarkably well
during recessions.)
Burglar Alarm Installation
Other home-based businesses that seem to do well only in
good economic times include:
Recruiting/Temporary Placement
Fine arts, crafts, and jewelry. Creating and marketing your own designs--not "assembly" for
some scammer. (See below.)
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctions of luxury items, collectibles, or
other "discretionary spending" items
Personalized stationary and greeting cards (Freelance artwork)
Calligraphy
Web Design
Beware the scammers! The fine folks at www.scambusters.org have
compiled a "Top 10" list of common work-at-home and home based business scams
to beware of:
10. Craft Assembly
This scam encourages you to assemble toys, dolls, or other craft projects
at home with the promise of high per-piece rates. All you have to do is
pay
a fee up-front for the starter kit... which includes instructions and parts.
Sounds good? Well, once you finish assembling your first batch of crafts,
you'll be told by the company that they "don't meet our specifications."
In fact, even if you were a robot and did it perfectly, it would be impossible
for you to meet their specifications. The scammer company is making money selling
the starter kits -- not selling the assembled product. So, you're left with
a set of assembled crafts... and no one to sell them to.
9. Medical Billing
In this scam, you pay $300-$900 for everything (supposedly) you need to start
your own medical billing service at home. You're promised state-of-the-art
medical billing software, as well as a list of potential clients in your
area.
What you're not told is that most medical clinics process their own bills,
or outsource the processing to firms, not individuals. Your software may
not meet their specifications, and often the lists of "potential clients" are
outdated or just plain wrong.
As usual, trying to get a refund from the medical billing company is like trying
to get blood from a stone.
8. Email Processing
This is a twist on the classic "envelope stuffing scam" (see #1 below).
For a low price ($50?) you can become a "highly-paid" email processor
working "from the comfort of your own home."
Now... what do you suppose an email processor does? If you have visions of
forwarding or editing emails, forget it. What you get for your money are instructions
on spamming the same ad you responded to in newsgroups and Web forums!
Think about it -- they offer to pay you $25 per e-mail processed -- would any
legitimate company pay that?
7. "A List of Companies Looking for Homeworkers!"
In this one, you pay a small fee for a list of companies looking for homeworkers
just like you.
The only problem is that the list is usually a generic list of companies, companies
that don't take homeworkers, or companies that may have accepted homeworkers
long, long ago. Don't expect to get your money back with this one.
6. "Just Call This 1-900 Number For More Information..."
No need to spend too much time (or money) on this one. 1-900 numbers cost money
to call, and that's how the scammers make their profit. Save your money --
don't call a 1-900 number for more information about a supposed work-at-home
job.
5. Typing At Home
If you use the Internet a lot, then odds are that you're probably a good
typist. How better to capitalize on it than making money by typing at home?
Here's
how it works: After sending the fee to the scammer for "more information," you
receive a disk and printed information that tells you to place home typist
ads and sell copies of the disk to the suckers who reply to you. Like #8,
this scam tries to turn you into a scammer!
4. "Turn Your Computer Into a Money-Making Machine!"
Well, this one's at least half-true. To be completely true, it should read: "Turn
your computer into a money-making machine... for spammers!"
This is much the same spam as #5, above. Once you pay your money, you'll
be sent instructions on how to place ads and pull in suckers to "turn
their computers into money-making machines."
3. Multi-Level Marketing (MLM)
If you've heard of network marketing (like Amway), then you know that there
are legitimate MLM businesses based on agents selling products or services.
One big problem with MLMs, though, is when the pyramid and the ladder-climbing
become more important than selling the actual product or service. If the
MLM business opportunity is all about finding new recruits rather than selling
products or services, beware: The Federal Trade Commission may consider it
to be a pyramid scheme... and not only can you lose all your money, but you
can be charged with fraud, too!
We saw an interesting MLM scam recently: one MLM company advertised the
product they were selling as FREE. The fine print, however, states that
it is "free
in the sense that you could be earning commissions and bonuses in excess of
the cost of your monthly purchase of" the product. Does that sound like
free to you?
2. Chain Letters/Emails ("Make Money Fast")
If you've been on the Internet for any length of time, you've probably received
or at least seen these chain emails. They promise that all you have to
do is send the email along plus some money by mail to the top names on
the list,
then add your name to the bottom... and one day you'll be a millionaire.
Actually, the only thing you might be one day is prosecuted for fraud.
This is a classic pyramid scheme, and most times the names in the chain
emails
are manipulated to make sure only the people at the top of the list (the
true scammers) make any money. This scam should be called "Lose Money
Fast" -- and it's illegal.
1. Envelope Stuffing
This is the classic work-at-home scam. It's been around since the U.S. Depression
of the 1920s and 1930s, and it's moved onto the Internet like a cockroach
you just can't eliminate. There are several variations, but here's a sample:
Much like #5 and #4 above, you are promised to be paid $1-2 for every envelope
you stuff. All you have to do is send money and you're guaranteed "up
to 1,000 envelopes a week that you can stuff... with postage and address
already affixed!" When you send your money, you get a short manual
with flyer templates you're supposed to put up around town, advertising
yet another
harebrained work-from-home scheme. And the pre-addressed, pre-paid envelopes?
Well, when people see those flyers, all they have to do is send you $2.00
in a pre-addressed, pre-paid envelope. Then you stuff that envelope with
another flyer and send it to them. Ingenious perhaps... but certainly illegal
and unethical.
From all that I've heard, most franchises and multi-level marketing schemes
are not profitable unless you pick a great product or service, and you
already have a strong background in sales. Beware of any franchise where you
wouldn't have a protected territory. My general advice is this: You will probably
be better off starting your own business,
making, retailing, or consulting about something where you can leverage
your existing knowledge and/or experience.
---
In closing, I'd like to reemphasize that home security and locksmithing are
likely to provide steady and profitable employment for the next few years,
since hard
economic times are likely to trigger a substantial crime wave. After
all, someone has
to keep watch on the tens of thousands of foreclosed, vacant houses. (If not
watched, then crack cocaine addicts, Chicago syndicate politicians, or other
undesirables might move in!)
« Letter Re: Kids and Home Security |Main| Note from JWR: »
Perspectives on Prepping on a Very Low Income, by Kuraly
I was raised in a missionary family, on nine different mission fields around
the world. At the age of nineteen, I went out to serve the Lord on my own in
the former Soviet Union. I had no formal Theological training, but was accepted
by the missionary societies of my denomination because of my experience under
my father and my willingness to go to dangerous areas.
I married, and my wife and I have now six children. A few years ago, due to
some changes in my theology, I fell out of favor with my denomination and had
to return home to the USA. I was faced with a situation of suddenly having
to feed and care for a large family with: 1. no formal education/training/skills
of any kind and 2. very little understanding of the southern American culture
that I found myself living in. I was forced to take very low-paying jobs and
survive on a low-income.
With our savings we were able to buy a small rural house and 7.5 acres in the
southeast. We were able to pay cash, I wanted it to be ours with no strings
attached, regardless of what the future held. I figured that at the very least
we would have a roof and some plantable land. I bought in the area my parents
lived in to help care for them as they progressed in years.
Our income is very limited. I work at just above minimum wage. I work a full-time
job and another part-time job. I am thankful that the Lord provides.
As I studied current events I became concerned about the possibility of a world-wide
economic and/or societal collapse of some kind, or a societal break-down here
in the USA resulting from any number of possible reasons. I had witnessed the
chaos of the nineties in the former Soviet Union, had watched doctors and physicists
sweep streets and live off of potatoes and bread for months on end, and I was
concerned about my responsibility to feed my family should a similar collapse
happen here.
What can you do when you have very limited means? Actually there is much you
can do. It amounts to setting goals and getting your family on board with you.
The first thing I did was (after my wife and I had many long talks and she
began to see things in a similar way), I gathered the family around and explained
everything to them. I explained about our limited means, exactly how much money
was coming in, how much went to utilities, fuel, etc. I explained what I believed
the dangers were. I explained what we needed to do as a family. Let me interject
here that after being born and growing up on a third-world mission field, they
were far from spoiled children! They were accustomed to living in tight quarters,
washing in cold water, eating cheap, and basically just "roughing it."
My first priority was for two weeks worth of provisions. We began to buy a
few extra cans of food when we went shopping. I set a goal of 20 dollars per
week for prepping. Some weeks ten dollars of canned goods and/or dried foods
like rice, beans or noodles, and ten dollars in ammo or medical supplies. Some
weeks just food, some weeks just extra gasoline. We bought gas cans at thrift
stores and garage sales for a dollar apiece, Large scented candles (better
than nothing) at closeout sales and garage sales for 30 and 50 cents, and just
about anything we could scrounge that might come in handy if the lights went
out. It did not take us long to build up enough supplies to last two weeks
in an emergency. We had enough gasoline to drive to work for two weeks (if
needed), enough food for our family plus a little extra, and candles, radios,
batteries and other odds and ends to get by.
I had also along the way added
to my ammunition stocks for my Winchester .30-30, and my bolt-action .22 LR.
After we reached the point where we felt we had enough for a two-week catastrophe,
we began to focus on the six-month time frame. This opened up many entirely
new possibilities. since the food required for this amount of time was such
a major expense, we had to make sure that it would last for several years.
This raised the issue of long-term storage in buckets, mylar bags and oxygen-absorbers.
We had to save for months to buy an order of oxygen-absorbers and mylar bags
on e-bay! We found low-cost buckets and began to fill them with rice, feed
corn, corn meal, noodles, beans etc. Anything that was inexpensive. We taught
the children to like corn-meal mush and grits since they might get quite a
bit of it one day!
Gradually we worked our way up to 30 buckets. At this point I made a strategic
decision. I decided that we needed to invest our extra funds in gardening.
Not entirely stopping the food storage, but reducing it in favor of procuring
means and experience in growing and canning our own food. We began to buy canning
jars and lids to put away in the attic for the future. My father gave us a
tiller with a blown engine which we were able to get fixed, and we began to
garden. The first garden was not very well thought-out. Some things grew, some
did not. But we learned. We learned first-hand what pollination means and about
soil fertility. We learned about bugs and blight. We gained valuable experience.
We also invested in chickens, and watched some of them die, some of them be
eaten by neighbor's dogs, some get eaten by our dogs, and the hardy survivors
begin to lay eggs. We watched them eat their own eggs and learned to give them
calcium. We let half of them free range and half range in portable pens that
we built which have an open floor that we could move each day to fresh grass.
We learned how to make them roost and lay where they were supposed to.
We bought some rabbits and learned a lot, real fast! We experimented with many
types of portable cages for rabbits which would allow us to move them from
one grassy spot to another without giving them time to dig a burrow. Sometimes
we would wake up and find rabbit carcases torn to shreds, because a neighborhood
cat had gotten to them. My kids handled most of this, and they learned things
the hard way.
If you haven't figured it out yet, We were totally green. I spent my life traveling
and overseeing the translation of Christian literature into foreign languages.
My wife is a musician. We had zero experience at any of this, and no one around
that we knew to advise us. We had to learn everything from scratch. We bought
a goat and promptly saw it attacked and killed by a stray dog. That hurt,
financially as well as emotionally. After sending the dog to join the
goat "on the other side", I bought another goat. and then another.
These have survived. We have learned to care for them.
Gradually I am seeing my children grow confident in their relationship to the
animals under their care. Gradually we are learning the needs of these animals
and how to make them produce for us. If we had had some kind of hands-on training,
it would have saved the lives of a lot of animals, but we didn't. I am happy
to announce a much higher survival rate for animals that we bring home now.
I felt like I needed a greater firearms capability (what man doesn't?). I thought
long and hard. At first I bought a Mosin-Nagant since they were so cheap ($75)
and the ammo was dirt-cheap as well. I then began to consider what type of
semi-automatic I could afford. I looked at the prices of ammo which was very
critical since I would have to train my entire family to shoot. At the time
the best deal for us appeared to be the SKS rifle.
It was cheap (a good quality Yugo[slavian SKS] was less than $200), dependable,
semi-auto and the ammo was
very cheap at the time. I later added a cheap 12 gauge pump, and last but not
least,
a
17 round Bersa Thunder 9mm. After purchasing these guns I began to pick up
ammo for them when I could find it on sale. I have gradually gotten up to about
500 rounds for each of them.
I then turned my attention to our home and it's defense. While we live in the
country, we are close to our neighbors 100 yards +/-, about five miles from
a small town, about 15 miles from a large town, and about 90 miles from Atlanta
(upwind fortunately). My greatest concern is our proximity to the road. The
house is only about 65 feet from the dirt road in front of our house. A looter
or burglar/rapist could be at the door or windows before the dog barked. In
response to this my next expenditure is to be fence posts, fencing, and barbed
wire, along with a row of thorny bushes in front of the wire next to the road.
Our house is a soft target, offering no ballistic protection. My remedy/forlorn
hope is to have plenty of sand and gravel on hand, and to start checking the
thrift stores for pillow cases to buy and store. perhaps we would have time
to bag up sand bags and at least harden up certain corners or rooms of the
house. We also have several large piles of sandstone (we live on top of a mountain)
which could be placed strategically and then perhaps sand bags on top of that.
We could also cut logs and add that to the mix.
Our water supply is a [grid-powered] electric well. This is one of my biggest
worries. We have made it a priority to buy a generator at least strong enough
to run
the
well and freezers for an hour or two a day. I know that this is only a temporary
solution but is about all we can handle right now. I am very thankful for the
non-fiction writing contribution about the siphon pumps for wells such as mine,
that offered up new possibilities which I have not had time to address yet.
We also have a neighbor 1/4 mile away which has an artesian spring on his property,
though it has extremely high iron content. I have purchased two 330 gallon
plastic livestock watering tanks and several drums which I can fill at the
first sign of trouble. I can also load them on my little trailer and pull them
down to the neighbor's to fill up from his well. I just need to check on the
ramifications of the high iron content.
I am also trying to fill up as many containers as possible with gasoline. I
add Sta-Bil and plan to use/rotate it yearly (as long as the price stays low).
I would like to keep at least 250 to 500 gallons on hand at all times. I buy
old gas cans at yard sales and just found a source for cheap 55 gallon drums
with sealed lids ($3). I may start using them instead.
Our immediate plans are to build more pens and raise more chickens and goats,
maybe a pig or two. We also look forward to planting a much bigger garden this
spring and maybe use some of our hard-won experience of last year. We also
want to involve the kids in martial arts classes if we can afford it, as well
as herb-collecting hikes from the local community college field school (which
are free and fun). We want to spend more time with them in the woods and in
the garden so that they feel comfortable there and begin to think about survival
from their own perspective. We also are beginning to exploit the library for
free resources for them to study on various topics.
The future of this country looks grim. As Christians we have "read the
back of the Book" and we know Who wins. Our responsibility is to be good
stewards of the talents we have, perform our duties as husbands and wives,
mothers and fathers, and ultimately, to trust Him for that which is beyond
our vision and power.
« Letter Re: It Looks Like the End is Beginning |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Gun Show Report--The Full Capacity Magazine Feeding Frenzy Continues
Mr. Rawles:
I took your
advice you posted last year and have been investing in some high cap
magazines. I've bought about $2,000 worth since the [November 2008 presidential]
election,
and I haven't had any second thoughts. Thank you sir, your advice is making
me a tidy profit. The 75-round
Romanian [RPK]
drums that I bought for $135 each the day after the election are now going
for $250
each.
And the
31-round
Glock 9
milly magazines
that I paid $33.50 each for are now going for $65 each. Oh, I found +2 [magazine
floorplate extension]s for those, so now they are all 33 rounders. I figure
those mags will
be over $100 each in a couple of months.
My real coup de largesse was this past weekend, when I went to a
local gun show here in Texas. (There is a gun show just about every weekend,
somewhere
in Texas. Some just take a day of driving to get to!) The place was a mad house. It
took 30+ minutes to stand in line just to pay to get in the door. People were
buying mil surplus ammo and magazines like crazy.
Basically the ammo and mags were all sold out by noon on Saturday. And most
of the "black guns" were sold
out
buy
the
time they closed the doors Saturday night. Prices on magazines have basically
doubled since the election.
Anyway, just after the show opened,
I was scanning the tables, looking for high cap magazines--what else--when
I spied
a Mini-14 GB
stainless, with an original Ruger-made 30-round magazine tucked up next to
it. I was about to ask [the seller] if he'd sell the magazine separately, when I glanced
at
the
gun's
price
tag:
$400! I just about died of an infarction on the spot. That is a great price
on a fairly scarce model. (The "GB" is the LEO-sales
model, with factory-installed flash-hider.) The seller--a nice old gentleman
and
a Korean War vet--said that
he had put
less
than 500 rounds through it. The rifle's looks matched the story, so I whipped
out
four Franklins and a copy of my driver's license to show I was
"Free, white and 21". Anyway, we got all set (private party sale--my only way
to business) to get the gun out the door, and the old timer says, "Oh
wait, don't forget the [factory shipping] box, and the magazines, they come
with
it." He
reaches under the table and lifts up a shoe box full of original Ruger 20s
and 30s,
some of
them
still
in
the white boxes! I nearly had a second heart attack. There were
11 [magazines in the box, of which] six were 30 rounders. That's like $900
worth of magazines,
these days! Later at the show I also scored four 20 round Beretta M92 "Robocop"
mags, two [Steyr] AUG 42-rounders
for $30 each, five AR-10 mags
(for just $40 each--I've seen them advertised on Buddy's board for $80 apiece!),
a
half-dozen
"Okay
[Industries]" M16 mags,
and big box of nearly new [Austrian] STG[-58] FN/FAL magazines--which
for some weird reason are still around $15! I bought
23 of those. I talked the guy down to $12 per, since I cleaned
him out.
Speaking of FAL .308 mags, my next purchase (already agreed, by phone) will
be a DSA [FN/]FAL clone. I have to drive 115 miles each way to pick it up.
I found it private party, [listed] on GunsAmerica.com.
I'm now tapped out, but my dad
is
lending
me the cash. I explained the situation, and he says that it is wise to buy
it. [He said:] "We'll have a good chuckle about the price, in a year or two!"
Here is my strategy on mags: Buy what you can, while you can--while
prices are still halfway reasonable. I don't own a Beretta
92, an AR-10, or an AUG, but I figure I can always trade [for what I need] later.
And I practically had to buy that FAL, since I found all those magazines.
(What a great excuse to buy a gun.) My only regret is that I didn't have
the cash to buy more magazines
at the show.
At
the rate
prices
are zooming,
Beta [C-MAG]s will pretty soon be back to $750 apiece, just like during the
[1994 to 2004 Federal "Assault weapons" and 11+ round magazine]
ban. .
Thanks again for your advice, sir. Your were right about silver. You were
right about magazines. And for that matter you were right about derivatives,
too. The world seems more and more like the first chapter
of "Patriots"
every day. (What, were you psychic?) I'm taking [your novel] to heart. I got
all my "beans", and "bullets" in hand, now I just have to work on the "Band-aids".
Thank
You,
Sir!
- Matt
E. in Texas
(Soon to be a 10 Cent Challenger and an Appleseed qualified rifleman.)
JWR Replies: I'm glad to hear that you stocked up. You won't
regret it. Those extra magazines will make fine barter items, both before and
after a "Crunch." OBTW, I'm not the only that is one advocating investing in
magazines. The following is
from
a
recent
e-newsletter from firearms training guru Gabe
Suarez:, advocating preparedness: "...Then get as many magazines
as you can justify. Glock magazines are going for about $35 now. A year ago
they
were
under $20, and dealer price two years ago was about $12! At the height of the
assault on freedom known as the Crime Bill, they were selling for $125. Forget
Ameritrade, buy magazines."
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Letter Re: Gun Ownership in Chile
Hello JWR,
I hope everything is going well for you and your family! Every day that passes
makes me realize how blessed I am to be out of the states and living at a great
retreat location in Chile.
I was reading your site yesterday and saw your article asking for information
about foreign gun laws. I recently purchased a new shotgun in Chile and will
share that experience with you. First, I don't think most Chileans follow the
gun laws here. The law is that you must register every weapon you own, and registration
is limited to three per person, but no limit per family. That means I could register
three in my name, three in my wife's name, etc. Laws state you must keep your
weapon in your home and if you transport in somewhere else, you must ask for
permission and get a form to do so. If you are stopped by the police and have
a weapon without the transport form, they have the right to seize it. (I have
been stopped many times for a registration check, and they have never searched
the vehicle or asked about weapons, so this is a very remote possibility in normal
times, IMHO).
From those restrictions, you can see why I feel most Chileans don't follow the
law. I wanted to ship down my grandfather's old Mossberg, but since it didn't
have a serial number, and the associated government paper hassle, I just bought
a new one here. When buying from a dealer, you have to follow the rules, and
being a foreign national residing here, I went along (for my first). I wanted
a basic Mossberg pump action 12 gauge, and the dealer informed me I had to pass
a hunting exam before I could buy the gun. He gave me some example tests, true-false
questions, and I went to register for the test. Not being a native spanish speaker,
I was a little worried about the exam. It cost about $24 US to get a study book
and pay for the test. The exam covered all the separate hunting laws for the
country, broken down by state. I had to know the dove daily limits for a region
1,500 miles from my house! Unbelievable. I managed to luck through the test and
pass with a 70%, even though none of the test questions given to me by the dealer
were on the test- wouldn't you know it!
Once I had my hunting license I returned to the gun dealer/ sport shop. I paid
for the gun, and then they took me to the local Chilean army office to register
it. On the way, the dealer casually mentioned I had to take a test there to ensure
I knew the proper care and maintenance of the shotgun I was buying! I had no
idea what those names were, so I had about 10 minutes to learn what a sight,
breach, stock, etc were called in spanish, and I lucked my way through another
multiple choice test on basic maintenance, and how many shells I was able to
buy
at a time, etc. What a pain! Now you see why I think most chileans skip this
law. Everyone was quite nice and helpful, it was just the process that stank.
The next step was needing the police to check my residence on the application
to ensure that I lived there. Well, I live 150km from this town, and I could
not take possession of my gun until my residence was checked. For this reason
I used a friend's residence in the town. I was checked out and returned the next
morning for my shotgun. What an ordeal. Total cost, not including the shotgun
itself, was about $60 US. Fortunately, now I have my legally registered shotgun,
even though it is registered at a residence far far away, so it would take some
searching to find me if the officials were so inclined. Obviously my next weapons
purchase will be from an locals to skip the whole bureaucratic nightmare. Since
I live way off the beaten path and know the local police, I am not worried, but
the national system here is set up for potential confiscation if necessary- remnants
of the 1970's and the civil war/Pinochet days.
Hope you find this informative. Chile is a great country for old German rifles
and such like. I look forward to getting a Winchester .44-40, .357, and other
weapons off of the grid. I've actually had my folks bring down boxes of rifle
shells and deer slugs in their airline luggage- no problem with customs. In other
news, I now have my pigs, chickens, and the sheep are on the way! Fresh eggs
and ham through any crisis! Best wishes. - Bruce
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Gun Ownership in Chile »
Letter Re: Advice on Shogun Selection--Do I Need a 3-1/2" Chamber?
Jim:
I am soon buying my first shotgun and wanted to know if you would
recommend it. It is a Remington 870 Express Super Magnum which handles everything
from light 2-3/4" loads to heavy 3-1/2" magnums interchangeably, in
a ribbed 28" barrel. I am looking at it for home defense. Best regards, - Greg
JWR Replies: The 3-1/2 inch chamber is only an issue here
in the US when shooting at high-flying ducks and geese, using the now-mandatory
steel shot. For home defense, a
3" chamber,
or even a 2-3/4" chamber
on the older guns is sufficient. Don't pay extra for a gun with a 3-1/2"
chamber. Spend the difference on getting a spare 20" barrel with slug
sights. That is the barrel that you will want for home defense. OBTW, for
the greatest versatility, try to get all barrels with "Rem-Choke" screw-in
choke
tubes.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Two Letters Re: Alaska as a Retreat Locale »
Four Letters Re: Preparedness Through Tapping in to the Craig's List Culture
Sir;
By way of profession, I am a CPA (M.S. in Taxation), economic survivalist
by persuasion. One thing you may want to caution readers about is the Internal
Revenue Services' position on bartering income. Always, always, always talk
to a competent tax advisor regarding your particular situation. Under the current
administration, self-sufficiency activities such as bartering with others for
services or goods may be considered a reportable and taxable activity on the
part of both parties.
Just a "heads up" to all, we all want to stay within the letter of
the law. Thanks for the listen - C.
Sir,
Craigslist can be frustrating, for example, you see a super deal, you
call early, have the cash and can buy now, but the seller says, "well,
some guy called at 6 a.m. and is coming to buy it this Sunday. Sorry." Out
of politeness, you didn't want to call at 6 am, but because you didn't, you
lost the ability to buy the item because the seller is a "first call-first
serve" seller, and not a "first cash-first serve" seller.
On the other hand, it is irritating when you set an appointment, spend $20
on diesel to drive to the seller's home, and arrive to find someone else loading
the item in his truck. Maybe sellers ought to put a Terms-of-Service in their
ads! (I personally am a First-Cash seller, but cancel later appointments immediately
upon sale). - Willow, in Texas
Jim:
[Because of their posting rules], one must be very circumspect in listing
or putting a "Want to Buy" (WTB) ad on Craigslist.com if
it concerns guns, ammunition, or reloading.
They will delete your posting in a "New York Minute". - D.O.
JWR Replies: I've seen the same thing happen, many times. Do
not mention firearms in the title line of any Craigslist post, even
if you live in an ultra-conservative state like Wyoming. Some hoplophobic do-gooder
will indeed zap your post almost immediately. I've heard that it is best
to "bury " mention of your willingness to swap "sporting goods" in
posts on other topics. For those that specifically want to trade a firearm
or ammunition, I recommend advertising on a regional gun board, such as the
Northwest Firearms Board. , or in one of the many local newspapers or
advertising giveaway papers (such as the "Nickel" and "Penny
Saver" type papers) that offer free or low-cost classified ads.
Mr. Rawles:
Even though Craigslist does
not allows firearms and ammunition advertisements, it is still beneficial sure
to check the Sporting Goods section. In my my local
Craigslist there are "47 speed bicycles, AK brand", and similar items regularly
for sale. - J.M.
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Letter Re: Mini-14s as Battle Rifles?
Hello,
Is a Ruger [Mini-14 .223] Ranch Rifle a good low cost battle rifle choice?
Apparently they are not for anything past "medium range". (Honestly I don't
know what that
means.)
Although the new Mini-14s [with] 580[-prefix] serial numbers are supposedly
more accurate at longer ranges than previous Ranch Rifles. I am interested
in
going to
an
Appleseed
event sometime later this year and was wondering if this might work for their
program. Also if it is a good gun I was going to go ahead and buy the 20 round
factory Ruger magazines. Thanks, - Clint C.
JWR Replies: In my opinion, even the latest production variants
of the Ruger Mini-14 Ranch Rifle are a marginal compromise choice for a .223
battle rifle. But they might be a good choice for folks in California,
where many other semi-auto rifles are already banned
by state law. But be advised that they won't be exempt
from the proposed Federal ban. (Yes, "Ruger
Mini-14" is on the updated ban list. They made it under the radar
back in 1994, but they won't in 2009.)
The drawbacks to Mini-14 Ranch Rifles that I can see are:
1.) The fragile
flip-up rear sights on the earlier-production guns. Buy a couple
of spares, even if you plan to use the provided scope rings.
2.) Their expensive
magazines.
(Buy only original
Ruger-made 20 or 30 round magazines, and get at least eight of them.
(The after-market magazines are most often junk that often do not feed
properly.) AR-15s
are inherently more accurate than Mini-14s, but they
do
require more frequent cleaning. It is noteworthy that magazines for AR-15s
cost less than half as
much as original Mini-14 magazines.
3.) They lack a flash-hider. But this can
of course be quickly remedied with an aftermarket
flash hider (such
as those made by Choate), most of which do not require gunsmithing.
4.) Their marginal accuracy, compared to ARs. From what I've heard, with
the possible exception of the new 580-series (et sequitur), Mini-14s
shoot groups that average nearly twice as large as
an AR
with the same barrel length. This is a function of the barrel-to-stock contact
at the lug at the front of the handguard. (Design demerits to the late Bill
Ruger!) Yes, they can be tinkered with, but why pour money into a rifle to
make it shoot straight, when you can get the same accuracy "right out of the
box" with an AR?
5.) They lack the ubiquity of the AR-15 series. This has implications
to everything from availability of magazines, to spare parts, to accessories
(you can get anything imaginable for an AR), and to even training. Anyone that
is prior US military service from around 1966 onward will likely already know
how to handle, shoot, zero, and field strip an AR, because they
are mechanically almost identical to M16s and M4s. In contrast, Mini-14 mechanical
training is something that is well-known by former prison guards, more
than anyone else.
So, all in all, I'd opt for an AR-15 clone or M4gery rather
than a Mini-14. The AR's accuracy, profusion of available spare
parts, and readily-available magazines gives them the edge.
But again, for
someone living
in one of the
gun-deprived states,
a Mini-14
might make sense. The other notable exception is in tropical
climates,
where if you buy the
all-stainless steel composite-stock Mini-14 variants, they'll
have better long-term resistance to corrosion than ARs.
As preciously discussed in SurvivalBlog, the next step
up from an AR or AK would
be an HK91 clone,
such as those made by PTR91 Inc. (Formerly JLD), and up until some recent legal trouble, by Vector Arms. The 7.62mm NATO cartridge is far
more capable than 5.56mm NATO,
especially beyond 250 yards. The magazines for HKs are also dirt
cheap. (As little as $5 each for German surplus G3 alloy
magazines. That might make a big difference in the near future, since
another 11+ round magazine production ban looks very likely.) I'd recommend
buying an HK91 clone if you can afford it--that is if
you
can even find one,
is today's frantic market.
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Letter Re: Advice on Grungy Military Surplus Magazines
I took your advice and ordered some FN-FAL magazines
from What-A-Country,
and they were promptly delivered. However, I was surprised to find that the
military surplus magazines were quite dirty with what appeared to be black
sand, and slightly oily. Is that common for used magazines? As a first time
battle rifle owner making my first military surplus purchase. I don't know
if this is common practice or not. If it is,
what is the best way to properly clean the magazines so they can be used? Any
advice or a link to a web site with additional information would be appreciated.
- SteelerFan
JWR Replies: That isn't very unusual. When buying military surplus,
I'd much rather get oily or greasy mags, because that indicates that an effort
was made to protect from rust in all
those years
of storage.What-A-Country imports
most of their magazines from Israel. And the Israel Defense Forces (IDF)
has almost always done a good job with storing weapons and accessories. (For
example, I've seen Lee-Enfield rifles that had been in storage in an Israeli
warehouse for 50 years that
still looked arsenal-new, once the grease was removed.)
I once bought a large batch of Thompson SMG magazines
that were practically pumped full of grease. Yeech! It took a lot of time to
degrease those.
OBTW, if the magazines that you bought are grungy inside, it doesn't take
long to disassemble them. If there is a lot of grease, you'll need to use a solvent
(such as Birchwood
Casey Gun Scrubber), otherwise just wiping them down with
paper towels will usually suffice. But again, be sure
to examine their interiors. (Needless to say, the usual safety provisos on avoiding
skin contact and inhaling vapors of Tri-Chlor-based
solvents apply!) One you've cleaned the magazines inside and out, wipe them
down with a light coat
of oil, or perhaps a heavy coat if you live in a region with high humidity. and
for long-term storage in a damp climate, RIG is
ideal. (But then, of course someday you'll be back to square one--removing
grease, before use.)
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Letter Re: Safety Note on Modifying Military FMJ Bullets
The article linked at "Box O' Truth Tests Elmer Keith-style
DumDum Bullets" contains a very dangerous statement: "5. Cutting
the end off a rifle Ball [full metal jacket (FMJ)] cartridge projectile will definitely make the bullet expand or
break up..." DO NOT DO THIS! By cutting off the tip off
of a full metal jacket (ball) round you have in effect created a pinched copper
tube, open on both ends, filled with a plug of lead. Upon firing, it is possible
to blow out the lead plug, leaving the tube (jacket) lodged in the barrel.
When the next round is fired, the bullet will encounter this obstruction in
the barrel, causing damage to the firearm and possible personal injury. Commercial
soft point bullets have a solid base to preclude this from happening. Regards,
- John in Colorado
« Letter Re: Soft Nose Loads for Battle Rifles |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Seeking Advice on Selecting and Assembling Web Gear
Mr. Rawles,
Thank you very much for your web site. I have been reading it every day for
the last two months. It is a wealth of knowledge. Read your book as well.
I have been researching food, water et cetera for quite a while and your
site has helped a great deal. My family will be quite prepared for whatever
in short order. The one thing that ha me confused is web gear/tac vest/ALICE gear.
In your book you refer to a certain type of web gear but I am having trouble
putting all of the pieces together. I am ex-Coast Guard and not at all familiar
with land gear. What web gear goes with what pack and belt, et cetera? Can
you help me with a list of compatible gear or recommend a book or manual?
Thanks, - Kurt in Washington
JWR Replies: There are umpteen opinions out there on web
gear, so take the following as just one man's view. Although they are currently
all the rage, I am not a fan of load bearing vests. I still
primarily
use the
old
tried-and-true
ALICE gear, although I have upgraded from the traditional "Y" suspender
harness to the more heavily-padded Eagle
Industries Ranger "H"-harness.
The new modular MOLLE (spoken "Molly")
vests are more versatile than the older-generation
Woodland camouflage vests that have stitched-in magazine pouches, but I
prefer having nearly everything handy at belt level. I've found that it is
slow and cumbersome to
get magazines
in an out of pouches that are any higher than my solar plexus. So that is why
I'm still an ALICE LC-2 vintage dinosaur. But as they say, "Your mileage
may vary" (YMMV).
Adding body armor to the equation changes things considerably, since full
Interceptor Body Armor (IBA)
with a MICH helmet
weighs anywhere from 19 to 25 pounds, depending on sizes and how many add-on
pieces--such as upgraded SAPI plates--are
included. And keep in mind that those figures do not include the weight of
ammo, magazines, a full hydration bladder, and various wunderkind gadgets.
When wearing non-concealment body armor, a load bearing vest/carrier does make
sense. Talk to the folks at BulletProofMe.com (one
of our advertisers) for details on
getting set up with body armor, pouches, and hydration systems that are practical
and comfortable. As I've mentioned before, fitting is crucial
with body armor,
so talk with an experienced dealer with a big inventory and responsive customer
service policies that can fit you properly.
Here
is a brief overview on the older ALICE generation US military web gear.
Greater detail can be found in FM 21-15, "Care And Use Of Individual
Clothing And Equipment", which can often be found at Amazon.com, Midway, GR8Gear.com,
and LoadUp.com
Here
is a PDF of a Fact Sheet on the latest MOLLE generation US military web
gear. Since this is the era of the high tech Stryker soldier, most of the "documentation" for
MOLLE gear is actually in the form of instructional DVDs. Oddly, I've never
seen these DVDs for sale in the civilian world. (But no doubt the Airsoft Mall
Ninjas have a secret distribution system, via Bit Torrents or some such.)
The majority of ALICE and MOLLE items will interchange--meaning that in
most instances you can clip an ALICE magazine pouch onto a
MOLLE vest, or attach a MOLLE pouch onto a ALICE belt. Don't be worried about
mismatched
colors or camouflage patterns. Practical civilian survival "ain't a
beauty contest." In real world camouflage,
randomness is a good thing. Anyone that tries to tell you that all
your gear has to be "color coordinated" is a poseur.
Both ALICE and MOLLE gear is available from U.S.
Cavalry Store. (BTW, if you follow that link then we'll get a little
piece of the action when you order.)
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| The "Prepper-Lawyer" by The Fourth Whirlwind »
Letter Re: Soft Nose Loads for Battle Rifles
Jim,
I've only been reading your blog for a short time, but I find it both interesting
and informative.
Having been a hunter for the last 56 of my 64 years, I do wonder why anyone
who plans on getting out of Dodge and heading for the woods would want a battle
rifle with ball ammo when we won't be bound by anything like the Hague Convention
as to the ammo we use. Seems to me, that soft points would be a better choice
and if the SHTF.
My M1A will
be traveling with me and will be loaded with
hunting ammo.
My personal choice, if I could only carry one firearm, would be a 12 gauge
shotgun with rifle sights. With slugs, it's good to over 100 yards for big
game and men, with 00 or 000 [buckshot shells] it's great for self defense
and you don't have to be all that good a shot, and #6 shot works well for smaller
game.
I
came
very close to using mine this year on elk because my grandkids scammed my .308
and 30-06 for their elk hunt and I don't have anything else that's legal for
hunting.
Forting up in our home [in the city] also seems like sure death if those who
mean us harm are intent on doing so and have a pint of gasoline and a match,
so
hitting
the road for a less urban environment sounds like the best thing to plan for.
At any rate, I like your site and it has been added to my favorites. - Don
J.
JWR Replies: I was an M1A owner for more than 25 years,
before recently switching to L1A1 (inch
pattern FAL)
rifles. I switched only because the cost of spare magazines and spare parts
for M1As was becoming prohibitive. (An
original USGI M14 parts
set (everything except a receiver) now costs in excess of $1,200, and I
just recently saw one advertised for $1,500!)
You are correct that in most defensive shooting situations, there will be no
need to penetrate armor, and the mushrooming effect of soft nose ammo will
be preferable. However, I recommend the use of soft nose ammo for .308 battle
rifles only for handloaders. Let me explain my rationale: Military 7.62 NATO
brass
is not identical
to civilian
.308
Winchester
brass.
It has
a thicker case head, and is hence more robust. Military ammunition is also
loaded with less sensitive
"hard
"
primers,
that differ
from
civilian primers.
Also, some civilian .308 loads exceed the military pressure specifications
for 7.62
NATO.
The following is a quote from the M1A manual PDF available at the
Springfield Armory
web site:
"The M1A is designed and built to specifications to shoot standard
factory
military 7.62 NATO ammunition. The specifications for standard
military ammunition include harder primers to withstand the slight indentation
from the firing pin when the bolt chambers a cartridge. This slight indentation
is normal. The use of civilian ammunition with more sensitive primers or
hand loads with commercial primers and/or improperly seated primers increase
the risk of primer detonation when the bolt slams
forward. This unexpected "slam
fire" can occur even if the trigger is not being pulled and if the safety
is on. Use of military specification ammunition will help avoid this."
The most cost effective approach to providing soft nose ammo for 7.62mm NATO
battle rifle is to use a
collet-type reloading press bullet puller, and pull
the FMJ projectiles from standard 150 grain 7.62 NATO ball ammo. Then re-seat 150
grain
spire
point
("spitzer") civilian soft nose
.308 bullets, such my old favorite, the Sierra
150 grain spitzer boat-tail. Repeat,
repeat
x 1000. This is time consuming, but it will give you appropriate soft nose
loads with safe pressure an safe primers for your M1A, and it will save you
about 30% on the cost of commercially-loaded ammo. Technically, this is still "handloading",
so it will void
your warranty, but you'll have safe and cost-effective loads that will mushroom
on impact.
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Two Letters Re: What Are the Best Magazines for Investment?
Jim
Here's my feeling on what pistol mags to obtain. Obviously, if you have a high
capacity handgun, it behooves you to have at least ten mags for it. I actually
have 30 Glock Model 19 mags since I already have one and contemplate picking
up another that a friend wishes to sell.
I'm also trying to pick up Glock 17 mags, even though they stick out the bottom
of my G19. I really want a Glock 34 long slide 9mm, and figure that the only
way I may be able to get mags for it down the road is to have them on hand.
They fit my [Model] 19, and stick out a little, but that's okay. [JWR
Adds: There
are
magazine "filler" sleeves made for the compact Glock pistols,
making them more
comfortable to hold when using full-size magazines--such as G17 mags in a G19,
G22 mags in a G23, and G21 mags in a G30.]
I want to warn you folks of one thing about Glock magazines. I am under the
impression that the company will be making the new Glock 21s, Glock 19s and
some others
in the "SF" [Short Frame] variation, which has a thinner frame, and
is more ergonomic. The problem is, while he new SF mags will fit the older
Glocks, the
old [pre-SF] Glock
mags won't work in the newer SF models. Apparently the mag body is cut for
the mag release in a different place. Thus, I'd recommend getting the older
version of the model you want, or just get the new SF mags. Right now, as I
said, I
think
only the Model 21 and 19 Glocks are made in the SF variation.
If you have an odd pistol, pay close attention to magazine availability. My
favorite carry gun is my Walther P-99 in 9mm. Mags were in the $50 range,
which made
them hard to afford. Every now and then, a company like CDNN gets trade-in
mags, which are priced affordably. CDNN were selling the trade in SW-99 mags
(which are the same gun essentially as the P99 for $28. I was able to pick
up two, but the company ran out the day after the election, and hasn't gotten
anymore. Since I like this handgun, I may have to bite the bullet and lay out
twice as much as what I give for Glock 19 mags to get a supply for this pistol.
I think the lesson is, if you have a Browning 9mm, or a Ruger P95, or a high
cap handgun
you
don't see every day, it would make sense to buy the mags while you can.
- Lawrence
K.
JWR Replies: I have been told that the SF mag catch notch
(on the front of
the magazine) can actually be cut by hand, with an X-Acto knife, to retrofit
older Glock magazines. BTW, I'm confident that some enterprising individual
is sure to soon produce cutting jigs,
to make this job easier .
Mr. Editor;
How can you tell people they should 'invest'
in magazines? That doesn't make sense. They are a commodity, that can be cranked
out
in huge numbers. - E.G.B., near Atlanta
JWR Replies: Magazines were until recently a commodity
but their status as a commodity
is is now dubious. As I described in this
article, Federal "bans" and "freezes" often spread
economic chaos. When governments interfere with free markets, prices can get
crazy. Just look at what happened to price of small containers of Freon, a
few years ago.
Based upon our knowledge of what happened during the last magazine
ban (circa 1994 to 2004, and thankfully terminated by a sunset clause), and
seeing a new presidential administration with hoplophobic tendencies
waiting in the wings, it is safe to assume that a new ban is fairly likely.
It is
therefore wise and prudent to stock up, in anticipation. My advice
is to buy all the full capacity magazines
that you and your children will ever need, plus a few more, as an investment.
In as little as six months, you may be very glad that you did! If a new ban
is enacted, it is very likely that the prices of most magazines will double,
and that some may triple or even quadruple.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Four Letters Re: Long Haul Voice and Data Communications in a Post-Collapse Environment »
Letter Re: What Are the Best Magazines for Investment?
Dear JWR:
I took your wise advice
posted in the blog back in October and stocked up on magazines
for all my guns. I 've even
bought some mags [for other guns] that I just plan to buy, such as M14 magazines for my eventual super match M1A buy. But what I'm thinking is,
I should
also
do
is
by even more magazines just "on spec", knowing that
with Obama coming
in[to office,
that]
a
ban of
some sort is more likely that not. What types/model high capacity magazines
would
be
best
to
invest
in,
for
the most possible gain?
I love your blog. I read it almost every day. I recently "did the honest thing"
and became a Ten
Cent Challenge subscriber. (I'm the one that sent you a roll of silver
Mercury dimes.) Thx, -
Pat H.
JWR Replies: First, I must mention: I refuse to
use the term "high capacity" magazine. As our friend Boston
T. Party correctly
pointed out,
"High capacity" is a political term, designed to foster dislike and distrust
by the Generally Dumb Public (GDP).
The correct term should be "full
capacity". What is being foisted upon us by
the Barbara
Boxers
and
the Chuck
Schumers of the world are 10 round reduced capacity magazines.
A limitation to anything less that full capacity is a diminution of our full
and proper right to keep and bear arms. Further, from a practical standpoint,
speaking as
someone
that lives in grizzly
bear country, don't ask me to carry just a 10 round magazine
in my XD .45, when I could have 15 or more cartridges. It conceivably might
take more than 10 rounds of .45 ACP to stop a charging grizzly. And I have
serious doubts that
Mr. Ursus
A. Horibilis will
stop and wait patiently if I yell "Time out, while I reload!"
For investment, I recommend that you
concentrate on magazines for popular European
high capacity
pistols,
such
as
Beretta, Glock, SIG,
and HK.
The greatest
gains
will
be seen in magazine prices for models that have just recently been introduced
and for which there is now just a scant
supply in the country. Magazines for the new Springfield Armory XDM ("M"
as in Mega capacity--this
latest model holds 19 rounds!) would be another good choice. Although
Springfield Armory is an American
company, their XD series
pistols and magazines are imported from Croatia. If there is an import ban
enacted early in Obama's first term, I expect all XD
magazines to at least triple in price, and XDM magazines to perhaps
quintuple in price. I'm not kidding.
The SIG
P250 is another perfect example. Here is a gun that was only recently introduced.
Its magazines do not interchange with pistols from other makers. The majority
of new P250 owners presently have just one or two spare 9mm magazines, and
no spare .40 or .357 SIG magazines. (The pistol is modular,
allowing it to be quickly converted to other calibers.) If and when an importation
ban is enacted, these owners will be screaming
for
magazines.
I wouldn't be surprised to see the price of spares to jump to $125, or more.
If you think that P250
magazines are currently scarce and expensive, at $43 each, just wait a
year. If a ban is indeed enacted, these magazines could be a tremendous investment.
But even if there is no ban, even as a commodity these magazines will be a
good hedge on future inflation. (Under those circumstances, don't expect them
to gain value, but as a practical tangible they will at least hold their
value, even in the blistering heat of mass currency inflation.)
Another good example is the 31-round "Glockamole" magazine made
for the Glock Model 17, 18, 19, and 26. These magazines jumped from $30 each
to a whopping $150
each
during the 1994-to-2004 Federal magazine ban. Three months ago--when I bought
my pile for investment--they were $27 each. They've just recently jumped to
around
$50 each. I expect them to at least double again in price, if a
new ban is enacted. In fact, even standard magazines for Glock are likely to
at least double in price, and probably go even higher.As evidence, I can cite
that when the last ban was enacted,
the price of 17 round Glock Model 17 magazines jumped from $18 to $75 each.
Again, IMHO, at present your investing emphasis should be on imported full
capacity magazines, since an import ban could be put in place with nothing
more than an an executive order.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Long Haul Voice and Data Communications in a Post-Collapse Environment »
Letter Re: Comparing the Big Three Battle Rifle Chamberings in the United States
Jim,
Regarding the comments from PPPP and Hugh D.: I couldn't agree with them more!
Both were exactly spot on! The person shooting is 99% of the equation. Training
(and lots of it) is the most important aspect, and in the long run, will probably
wind up being more expensive than the firearm itself (instruction, gas to the
range, ammo consumption and cleaning supplies are just to name a few).
I strongly urge your readers to partake in any excellent training afforded by
professional institutes such as Front Sight, OnPoint Tactical, Suarez International,
et
al.
If these locations are too distant, I hope they can find an experienced friend
or
relative to help them develop good habits in shooting.
Sometimes people get too caught up in statistical analysis and numerical comparisons.
I did not write that piece to attempt to illustrate one as better than another.
I enjoy shooting all of the calibers mentioned (and many more), and easily see
the benefits of each. I am sort of remiss that I did not point out the different
circumstances in which I find each major rifle caliber best. But I'll leave that
up to the shooter to determine for his or her own purposes.
While my article had many statistics, I must reiterate that none of it means
a darned thing without a competent shooter. Handgun/Rifle ballistics and their
effective ranges are nice to know for new shooters, at a glance, to better illustrate
the limitations of any firearm (mostly with effective range, bullet drop and
penetration). But the only way to see those numbers (all taken with a grain of
salt) in action, is to go out and shoot. We can be Keyboard Commandos on the
internet all day long, but in the end, talk means nothing without practical experience.
While the numbers in my comparison look "definitive," they are merely
a composite; hashed together to simply compare and convey energy/speed of bullets
beyond the muzzle.
The real test is: does the shooter know how to best utilize what firearm he or
she has to its greatest potential? Some can adapt available firearms to certain
situations better than others. Eyesight, body size and ergonomic preferences
factor in, but in the end, it boils down to experience. There are a few natural
prodigies out there when it comes to shooting; but for most of us, all that bullet
velocity or energy doesn't mean a thing if you can't hit your target consistently...and
the best way to do that is to shoot (and shoot, and shoot, and shoot...rinse
and repeat as necessary).
Shoot enough, and you'll develop that skill as almost a second nature. But don't
kid yourself, it takes years of routine trigger-time. It doesn't come overnight.
I'm still working at it. Even when one gets fairly good, it still has to be maintained
just like any other skill.
Whether it be 9mm or .45, 5.56 or 7.62x39 or 7.62 NATO or .30 Carbine...get
out and shoot, and shoot often! And be safe out there people! Always
wear hearing/eye
protection, and follow the
Four Basic Rules of Firearms Safety.
Personally, I feel all shooters ought to be able to consistently hit a man-sized
target at 50 yards with a handgun, and at 300 yards (preferably 500) with a
rifle (as often advocated by both William Buppert and the late Jeff Cooper).
Yes, ammo is expensive. It's the most expensive it has ever been, but, it's
also the cheapest it's ever going to get. See you all at the range! - Kyrottimus
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Survival Dentistry, by The Army Dentist »
Letter Re: Seeking Advice on Mosin Nagant Rifles
Jim,
At the risk of pestering you, I was curious about your opinion of Mosin
Nagant rifles. I have seen them advertised on J&G Sales for anywhere from
$69
to $199, with folding bayonets. The advertised condition is "very good".
What do you think? It appears that there is pretty widespread availability of
7.62x54r ammo
for this weapon as well. Thanks, - MAJ Kevin X., USAR
Kevin:
Here is brief response. (I get 60+ e-mails per day, so forgive my brevity):
I do like the Finn M39 Mosin rifles --some of which are available on pre-1899
antique actions--but the little carbines (all legally modern, requiring
paperwork) kick like a mule. The 7.62x54r cartridge is a bit more powerful
than .30-06.
See: this
article on early Mosin Nagant rifles and my
Pre-1899 Antique Guns FAQ.
Pat Burns is a good Mosin dealer that usually has some Finnish M39s built on
antique (1898 or earlier) receivers available.
(Scroll down to the second half of the yellow table of M39 listings for the
pre-1899 antiques.)
Please note that most of the 7.62x54r ammo on the market is corrosively
primed. Search for the Russian Silver Bear 7.62x54r ammo, which is non-corrosive.
J&G
Sales in Prescott, Arizona often stocks it.
« Letter Re: Comparing the Big Three Battle Rifle Chamberings in the United States |Main| Letter Re: A Company Layoff Underscores the Need to Be Well Prepared »
Letter Re: Speeding Coyote Hunters Arrested in Illinois
Jim,
I enjoy reading your blog and have improved my preps exponentially since I
began following you. I don't know how many dozens of [telephone] consultations
you do annually, but you and I spoke for an hour earlier this year. I live
on
Long
Island,
if that
rings a bell. I feel that it was money well-spent.
The post on vehicle stops was informative. You mentioned Boston T. Party's "Boston's
Gun Bible" as a reference source. I have read all his books, fiction and
non-fiction alike, and found him to be both entertaining and informative. If
I may, I suggest letting your readers know that he has a book devoted solely
to interactions with law enforcement. His book is entitled "You and
the Police" and can be found on Amazon.com for as little as $10.88 at last
glance. This book covers all phases of dealing with law enforcement including
traffic
stops,
roadblocks, airports etc . It also tells you what the police are allowed to
do and what your rights are during a "contact", "detention" and "arrest".
I have purchased copies for myself, family and friends. As the cover of the
book states :If you don't know your rights, you have none!"
Thanks for the blog. It's my first stop each morning. God Bless, - Ken B. in
New York
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: A Prescribed Burn in North Carolina to Find a Fugitive's Weapons and Ammo »
Two Letters Re: Comparing the Big Three Battle Rifle Chamberings in the United States
Jim:
The recent article [by Kyrottimus] that stated that at 50 yards a typical
45 ACP and 9mm [Parabellum] will have the same energy is wrong.
.45 ACP 230 gr ~390 ft/lbs (528 joules) @ 875 fps (JHP)
9x19mm Luger/Parabellum 115 gr ~385 ft/lbs (521 joules) @ 1,225 fps (JHP)
His additional assumption, that bullets will slow equally in an air mass,
is also wrong.
I noticed that he listed the fps for a 9mm cartridge at 1,225 fps. This is
the energy for a 9mm +p+ range cartridge, while comparing it to the 45 ACP
ball cartridge, not a +p rated bullet. How convenient for the crowd that believes
9mm and 45 to be "equivalent". The Winchester Ranger +p 230 gr ball
is rated at 985 fps out of my barrel and it's ballistic coefficient makes it
retain more energy at 50 yards than the lightweight 9mm 115 gr cartridge. So
while not trying to get into the age-old 9mm versus 45 ACP fight, he's perhaps
unintentionally
dishonest in his comparison. I would hazard a guess that the data itself was
simple cut
and pasted, and the writer is unused to
vetting his writing.
I also found a big error, where the writer says: "Note that grains in
bullet mass differ from from the "grains" of smokeless
powder (nitro-cellulose) propellant, which is not used in this article." He
couldn't be more wrong. I thought there was something up when he equated grain
weight
to carats and
then to grams - I don't think this is a reloader or someone more conversant
with ammunition - no reloader I know could ever make this mistake. [JWR
Adds: I
think that what he meant write was that a physical grain of powder does not
necessarily weigh one grain. But you are correct that powder is weighed
in the same "grains" scale as bullets.]
When he talks of the destabilization of a typical rifle round, he also describes
what actually happens erroneously, when referring to the centrifugal force
of the cartridge "failing", and "the laws of inertia, resistance,
velocity and mass" being the deciding factors after the "spin fails".
He uses big words, but I'm positive he doesn't know what the interactions of
those forces are. Using words like 'critically destabilizes' sounds like he
was quoting something again, and not instructing the reader.
You know, as do I, that [Col. Martin] Fackler [the lead author of the NATO Emergency War
Surgery manual and numerous ballistics studies] explained all of this
stuff very simply and very succinctly - and rotational forces are
a
primary
reason
for
jacket
and
bullet
fragmentation,
they do not "usually fail" as he writes. - Jim H. in Colorado
Jim:
"Point blank" is not just vaguely "... a few yards from the muzzle" as
Kyrottimus stated.
Here is
the official definition:
In external ballistics, point-blank range is the distance between a firearm
and a target of a given size such that the bullet in flight is expected to
strike the target without adjusting the elevation of the firearm (see also
gun). The point-blank range will vary with the firearm and its particular ballistic
characteristics, as well as the target chosen. A firearm with a flatter trajectory
will permit a nearer minimum and further maximum point blank range for a given
target size, while a larger target will allow for a longer point blank range
for a given firearm.
We need to teach the correct usage of terms,
not colloquialisms. - Beach
« Letter Re: Food Items in Non-Food Grade Buckets? |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: Can Firearms Magazine Springs "Take a Set"?
James,
Although I'm retired from federal law enforcement, I am far from being a firearms
expert or zealot. For me, a weapon was just a tool furnished by the agency
to conduct business. Things (and my opinion) have changed a bit now - although
I'm still not as aggressive as a lot of preppers.
That said, I have a question regarding the reliability of magazine's that one
might keep loaded (i.e. in a nightstand) for months or years. Wouldn't the
magazine springs tend to (eventually) take-on a "set" that would
reduce reliability? Should we replace certain springs with better(?), rotate
the magazines every few months to relieve the compression loading on the springs
... or ?
To make this question more specific I'm asking about factory magazines for
a SIG P229
(.40 S&W)
and a Model 1911 (.45 ) ACP.
I would be interested in your opinion on the topic generally. Thanx, - C.
JWR Replies: In my opinion, the entire "springs taking
a set" premise is over-blown. I've been told by a metallurgist that only
a coil spring that lacks proper tensile strength at the time of manufacture
will show weakness significantly over time, under compression. Ditto for magazine
feed lips. So if a magazine is properly manufactured, then this should not
be an issue within the span of a couple of generations. With that said, as
an ultraconservative "belt and suspenders" type, I do rotate
my loaded magazines once per year. (I keep only half of my standby magazines
loaded, at any given time.) But shooting that ammo in target practice--my favorite
way to "rotate" it!--is more for confirmation of having reliable
ammunition than it is about magazine trustworthiness.
In 1989, I took part in firing two 7-round M1911 magazines of .45 ACP
ball ammo (with 1943 headstamps) that had been stored loaded continuously since
the end of WWII. These two magazines had been left in the back of a desk drawer
in a manila envelope with a 1945 postmark. Not only did the cartridges all
fire, but the pistol functioned without a single failure to feed. I just wish
that I had shot video of the event. These days, that clip would probably do
well on YouTube.
One thing is for certain: If you have troublesome magazines, do
not attempt to "tweak" them, by bending their feed
lips or stretching their magazine springs. Both of these methods will only
make matters worse, because you will be destroying tensile strength of
the steel. If any magazine you own is not 100% reliable, then either A.)
strip it as a source of spare parts (namely, its follower, floorplate,
and floorplate retainer), and discard the rest, or, B.) paint its floorplate
red, so that it will be relegated to "target shooting only" status.
The last thing that you want is an unreliable magazine mixed in with the
good ones that you 'll trust your life to, if an when times get Schumeresque.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Flash Hiders for Bolt Action Rifles
Mr. Rawles,
In your novel ["Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse"], you mentioned having bolt
action rifles fitted with flash-hiders., to kinda "tacticalize" a
civilian rifle. What type of flash hider do you recommend, these days?
My gunsmith (locally) says that he can thread the muzzles on my two bolt
guns to 1/2 x28 threads. But all of the flash hiders with that thread that
I've seen advertised are for 5.56/.22 bullets. Solutions? Thanks Much,
- Marty in Rhode Island
JWR Replies: Previously, I used drilled out Vortex flash-hiders,
to provide .308 bullet clearance. But I now recommend the Hurricane flash-hider, made by a home-based gunsmith
that does business under the trade name "Moses." He
advertises them at the FALFiles Marketplace. You might ask for them to
be made ito the Rawles Special specifications, to wit:
2.5 inches long
Twist prongs (similar to the Vortex)
.30 caliber bullet clearance
Two rear grooves
1/2 x 28 RH threads (Same muzzle thread specification as M16/AR-15)
Very dark gray Parkerizing.
Disclaimer; I have no remunerative interest in these flash hiders. I'm just
a very satisfied customer.
As I've mentioned previously, I recommend leaving a muzzle brake on your rifle
in normal times. This does not attract unwarranted attention when out hunting,
or when visiting your local rifle range. If and when the Schumer Hits the Fan,
you can quickly switch to the flash hiders. (Be sure to do some target tests
with both the flash hider and muzzle brake, to make sure that the different
barrel harmonics don't change the bullet's point of impact.)
The muzzle brakes that I prefer are made by Holland's
of Oregon. (You may recall that they were previously a SurvivalBlog advertiser.)
Darryl Holland has set up four bolt actions and a Valmet Hunter for our family
with his muzzle brakes, and I've been very pleased with his work.
OBTW, we also use olive drab Holland's of
Oregon brand zippered-nylon buttstock pouches on our bolt actions. These
also work well for holding small (4 or 5 cartridge) detachable magazines.
These stock pouches have very comfortable neoprene cheekpieces. I noticed
that they are not currently cataloged at the Holland's web site, but I believe
that they should still be available. (Call to inquire.) This is an exceptionally
well-made item.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Gardening and Seed Saving, by Carolyn W. »
Letter Re: Seeking Advice on Storing Guns and Magazines
Mr. Rawles,
I have taken your good advice and purchase a few rifles and a
number of full capacity magazines as an investment,. Now how do I store them
for the long term? Should I spray them with something first? Please continue
to help. - James B. (a "Ten
Cent Challenge" participant)
JWR Replies: The precautions that you need to take depend
a lot on where you live. If you live in a high humidity climate, then you need
to be particularly vigilant with your guns, magazines, and other tools. In
essence: the higher the humidity, the greater the degree of protection required,
and the greater the frequency of inspection for rust.
I generally recommend wearing lightweight cotton gloves when you do your gun
maintenance. This is particularly important if you have sweaty hands. My college
roommate was notorious for inducing rust on guns because of this, and he has
always had to take special precautions.
A light coat of gun oil such as Rem
Oil will suffice in dry climate. Although
exotic lubricants such as Break
Free CLP are great for lubricating, in my experience,
they leave so little residue that they are actually inferior to traditional
gun oils for preventing rust. In damp climates, I recommend Birchwood Casey
Barricade (formerly sold under the product name "Sheath".) Rem Oil
and Barricade are both available from a number of Internet vendors including Brownell's.
And even Amazon.com
now sells Barricade.
For long term storage all metal parts (inside and out) especially the bore,
chamber, and breech face should get a coating of grease. There is always the
tried-and-true USGI "Grease,
Rifle". (This product name was humorously spoken "Grease Comma Rifle" by
American soldiers for many years, before the advent of the M16). While it will
suffice,
I prefer Rust Inhibitive Grease (RIG),
which is available from a number of Internet vendors including Brownell's.
Even though you will know how the gun was treated before storage, someone else
in your family might not. I therefore strongly recommend attaching
a special warning note: "Warning: grease coating--bore, chamber
and bolt face! Remove grease before firing!!!"
Small quantities of magazines stored inside a humidity-controlled gun vault
(with a Golden
Rod or similar de-humidifier) or stored in sealed ammo cans
with a large packet of silica
gel desiccant probably won't need more than light
coat of oil and annual inspection. Any larger quantities of magazines that
are stored outside of your vault in non-airtight containers should probably
be rubbed down with RIG. In most cases this requires disassembling magazines,
to get at their innards. OBTW, even if a magazine is made of polymer and has
a plastic follower and floorplate, don't forget that its spring needs
rust protection!
« Letter Re: Michigan's Upper Peninsula as a Retreat Locale |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Should We Currently Emphasize Storage Food or Gun Purchases?
Hello Jim,
I've finished reading your fine novel "Patriots" several
weeks ago, and have passed it on to another like-minded individual. I've also
been scouring your
web site
daily for the last several months, and gleaning extremely valuable information
not only from you, but the many fine individuals who add excellent links
to current events. I have forwarded your link to others, and have it saved
as "required reading" daily.
A brief background on our family; I had been one of the Y2K aficionados,
and had lived on the Big Island for many years. If it were still just my wife
and
myself, we would probably still be there. But having children changes everything.
I became involved in politics there as a fund raising chairman for a twice successful
Republican, who was seated in the State house on Oahu, hoping that we could make
a difference. But after 10 years there, (and the birth of our first daughter),
I determined it was time to relocate back to the mainland. China had also recently
bracketed Taiwan, and expressed they could now hit Los Angeles with their now-successful
missile launches. (Thanks to Loral Corporation and Bill Clinton). If the balloon
ever
goes up, I fear that Hawaii will be in deep kim chi.
I had done extensive research from Kona on the best place to settle on the mainland.
We had traveled to the mainland numerous times, and visited all of the locations
I deemed appropriate. We looked at Prescott, Arizona in the southern extreme,
Grand Junction and Estes Park in Colorado, Mazama, Twisp, and Sequim, Washington
(in
the
rain
shadow of the Olympic Peninsula), Driggs, Idaho, Whitefish and Missoula, Montana,
along
with several
others. I had multiple criteria as determining factors, such as growing season/weather,
local political mentality, and economic vitality. After visiting everyone of
these places, I had decided southern Oregon was an area that could conceivably
weather both a nuclear exchange and long term social upheaval. I did not believe
it was practical to "bug out" to a retreat locale, but would be "bugging
home" from a business trip in any "event". We learned in the restaurant
business that there are three things important for a successful endeavor, and
those are "location, location, location". I have second -guessed my
decision many times, but have sent a tap root down with the kids in school. So
I would advise your readers to seriously consider their location, and to relocate
to a desirable community, as I feel time is short.
With that segue Jim, I have a question for you, and would seek your council.
I have a dreaded sense of foreboding with the recent election results, as I'm
sure many of your readers do. After Y2K,
my preparations for long term unrest had lapsed, and I feel into a state of complacency.
I have slowly accumulated
a fair number of firearms to protect my family over the years, and have acquired
a couple of thousand rounds for each main battle rifle. The additional magazines
have arrived in the mail, (thanks for that great link to CDNN by
the way), and I feel I'm somewhat prepared in this regard. If only I could convince
my wife
to shoot.
At any rate, my question is this: I don't know if I should head to
the local gun show today, or to the local store for
sustenance for the family. I feel that if we are to buy ammo/firearms, it must
be now,
as Barack Obama could make us all felons with the stroke of a pen. All he has
to
do
is
to
sign a treaty with the U.N., or file an Executive Order. So what should we
do, buy guns/ammo, or additional food?
BTW, I continue to pray for the swift and complete recovery of The Memsahib.
God Bless. -
Steve
in SW Oregon
JWR Replies: First, do not neglect buying storage food for
your family. But in my opinion the outcome of the recent presidential and congressional
election
dictates
putting
a
higher
priority
on guns and accessories for the next few
months. We
are living in exceptional times, and that calls for temporarily re-sequencing
our
priorities.
If your State law law allows it, then buy your guns from private parties--not Federal
Firearms License (FFL)
holding dealers. Private party sales of modern (1899 and later) guns across
state lines (in "interstate commerce" ) are banned under Federal
law, but intrastate
sales are still legal in most states. (Be sure to consult your state
and local laws!)
Buying a gun through a licensed dealer leaves a prominent
and permanent paper trail. Here are some relatively low profile alternatives:
Private party (non-FFL) sellers that are fellow Citizens of your State,
at gun shows in your State.
Private party (non-FFL) sellers that are fellow Citizens of your State,
advertising in newspaper ads.
Estate sales, garage sales, and farm auctions operated by private party
(non-FFL) sellers that are fellow Citizens of your State.
Private party (non-FFL) sellers that are fellow Citizens of your State advertising
at GunBroker.com 
(Use
the "Smart Search" feature, and select "USA only - State where
item is located")
Private party (non-FFL) sellers that are fellow Citizens of your State advertising
at GunsAmerica.com (Use
the "Advanced Search" feature, and "LIMIT TO STATE". You can also select
a check box to exclude guns that were listed by FFL holders.)
Pre-1899-manufactured "antique" guns chambered for modern cartridges, either
in-state or out of state. (No FFL is required for Federally-exempt antiques.
See my Antique
Guns FAQ for details. Again, your State and local laws may vary, so do
your homework.)
One of president-almost-elect Obama's publicly
stated goals
is to "close
the gun show loophole." Clearly he wants to end private paperwork-free
firearms purchases. This leaves us just a brief window of of opportunity to
stock up what may need to be a decades-long supply. Be sure to buy
plenty of full capacity magazines, since it is very likely that there
will be an import ban
(via executive order) soon after BHO comes
to office, and a domestic production ban (via an act of Congress), soon after
that. These bans
will freeze the numbers
of "grandfathered" magazines in private hands and will likely triple the
market price of all magazines of 11+ round capacity.) Buy plenty of
extras for
barter--even for models that you don't own, but that will likely be in high
demand.
There
may come a day when owners won't be willing part with
magazines
for
anything but
astronomical prices, but they'll probably still be willing to barter on
a rational; "value for like value" basis.
Put an emphasis on gun and full
capacity magazine purchases for
the next three months, followed by some extensive ammunition purchases soon
after the presidential inauguration.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Hunt Packs Available at Cabela's »
Five Letters Re: Full Capacity Magazine Price Increases are Already Here
Jim,
I wanted to contribute this the following to your ongoing discussion on high
capacity magazines.
Selling high capacity magazines is normally a small part of our business, but
that changed last week. Between October 31 and today, we have sold more than
I normally sell in a year.
I had stocked up anticipating increased demand, but was nowhere near prepared
for the huge surge in sales that we experienced. A normal order was 3 to 6
magazines, now it is 12 or more and we have had several customers buy in quantities
of
100+.
As a result, we are completely sold out of AR-15 magazines.
I have had 400 on order since before the election, hopefully to arrive some
time later this month, but many
are already allocated to back orders. I could use 1,000 more magazines, but
I have no idea how long it will take the manufacturer to produce them, where
I will be on their waiting list, or how much their price will have increased.
I sold out of Glock Model 23 magazines and am very low on Glock 19 magazines.
I was able to re-order, but my supplier was out of a couple of varieties and
the price has
increased
$2 each on the rest, so we had to raise prices. My profit margin was only
$5 on Glock magazines, and one of my other suppliers is now quoting wholesale
prices that are equivalent to what my retail price was.
This feeding frenzy should be an example to everyone who has delayed some
of their preparations. Don't wait until the panic starts -- buy your long
term
storage food now. Get a water filter and grain mill while you still
can. Buy your silver during the current dip. Survival supplies are tight,
but things will
get worse
before they will get better. I have been in the survival business since before Y2K. (BTW,
I have a 1997 edition of [your draft edition novel] TEOTWAWKI in its three
ring binder on my bookshelf) and this is the busiest we have been since
early
1999. - Dave (of Captain
Dave's)
Mr. Rawles
I found this online - it is at an AR15.com forum where folks are presently discussing
who is raising their magazine prices and who isn't: Stay safe. - David B.
JWR,
Brownell's has still
not raised any of their prices, as of this week. I have an account with them
and bought a bunch of mags (AR and AK). Most of these
are going to be traded off to my brother and some other contacts. Brownell's
AR mags are still $12.50. These are good quality and I have never had a problem
with them. FYI, - Sarge
Sir,
I've seen similar goings on here in Memphis. General threat of mob violence
on the night of the 4th and after if The One lost the election, so I went
to pick
up some
extra buckshot and I figured a couple extra boxes of .45 while I was at it.
First went to Sportsman's Warehouse, but they were out of just about everything
in the major pistol calibers except the exotic and high-dollar loads. The
mountain of 9mm ball they'd laid in planning to put on sale this weekend was
reduced
to less than a mole hill.
They were also pretty much out of buckshot, too. Bear in mind that this is
an outdoor sporting goods "big box" and not a gun store per se. I
left there empty-handed and headed over to Guns & Ammo, my usual stop for
same. I knew something was really up when a guy coming out as I went in had
two black Glock cases and a blue SIG box in his arms and his son was carrying
a double-arm-full of handgun ammo boxes. Once I got inside the store, it looked
like Christmas Eve in there; people lined up three deep at the counter, which
is about 50 feet long. All six employees were going like mad trying to keep
up with the sales. I got the last half-dozen boxes of Hornady TAP buckshot
and a few boxes of Winchester Ranger .40 and high-tailed it. Looks like everybody's
a bit worried, and with good reason. "May you live in interesting times," indeed.
- Booth
Jim:
A recent post said that Cabela's in Texas was out of ammo. I live in central
Indiana and my local Gander Mountain store is (by now) out of .223 and other
popular Battle Rifle calibers so I thought I would buy on-line like I usually
do. What a shock. Able Ammo, MidwayUSA and Cheaper Than Dirt are out of just
about everything in Battle Rifle calibers. I've never seen anything like
this ever. Most
are not even
accepting back orders. I stopped by a local but out of the way gun store
and had trouble finding a place to park. The employee's said you could not
move around in the store on Saturday and the owner said he was thinking of
going out of business after the first of the year. Interesting.
Friday, before work, my wife and I stopped by our local police department to
request Concealed Carry permits. We got there Friday morning, 10 minutes before
they opened.
I was
first in line and the lady asked me why everybody wants gun permits? Apparently
it
was a busy week for her. By the time I was fingerprinted and left the lobby
was full of people, mostly couples, all seeking similar permits. These were
all professional people. I live in a bedroom community where we have the highest
per household income in the state. Something interesting is happening on in
our country and intelligent hard working professional people feel the need
to be able to protect themselves.
At a local outdoor shooting range, which was very busy despite 38 degree temps
and wind, I talked to as many people as I could. They are mostly male in their
late 30's to 50's. I ask them how long they have owned their weapon and the
usual answer was "Since Tuesday!" There are a great many new shooters out there
and they are not hunters. While they were not seeking training, at least they
know if their weapon will fire if needed. I rarely see the same people again.
Apparently, if the gun works, it works and that is the end of it. - Russ in
Indiana
« Letter Re: HF/VHF/UHF Amateur Radio for Preppers |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Retreat Locale and Firearms Selection Questions from a Newbie Easterner
Jim,
I am a new reader of SurvivalBlog but I am already hooked. I realize that I
am woefully unprepared to defend and care for my family if and when TSHTF.
I live in New Jersey and commute to New York City every day, and work in finance.
After 9/11, when I lost several dear friends, I took some steps to prepare
for a
short
(several
days to a week) disruption or an attack. I purchased a generator, several hundred
MREs, bottled water, and iodine pills. I even applied for a firearm purchase
permit but never bought a weapon.
Working in the capital markets, I have see firsthand over the last
few month show how close we have come to a complete breakdown in the monetary
and payments
system.
As a person who is generally a free market advocate and non-interventionist
it troubles me deeply that the government has had to step in to try and salvage
the banking system. However, I can say that in the days before some of these
programs were announced, we were probably much closer than people think to
a severe systemic financial collapse. I saw firsthand the panic and fear that
prevailed on Wall Street in those few days, and it was real.
Hopefully we will be able to pull out of this current crisis. But in the spirit
of preparing for the worst, I realize that I have much to do in order to get
ready for TEOTWAWKI. So I do have a few questions that I hope you can answer.
While I am sure some of these have been answered for previous newbies, I would
greatly appreciate your opinion and advice.
What is your suggestion for a retreat location for someone living in New Jersey?
I have read your "Recommended
Retreat Areas" section and it looks
like most of us east of the Mississippi are in some trouble. However, I am
tied
to my
current
location in terms of my employment and extended family. I am relatively blessed
in terms of financial resources, so it is potentially feasible for me to purchase
an out of state second home to use as a retreat. I do worry about access in
a SHTF scenario.
Highways potentially clogged, gas in short supply, etc. Is a 2-to-3 day drive
by car or longer escape location feasible? There are relatively rural
areas within 2-5 hours by car that we could choose, but none approach the remoteness
most on this site seem to favor.
This also seems to be a common question but what about firearms? New Jersey
is quite restrictive. The permit I got after 9/11 expired so I recently reapplied
and
should get my new permit in a couple months. I am not a complete neophyte but
pretty close. I have hunted a few times with friends and have done some target
practice at the pistol range. I know I need training. I also fear that the
new administration may impose even more restrictive legislation limiting access
to firearms so I want to move relatively quickly in assembling what I need.
Here is what I am thinking:
handgun: there is no concealed carry in New Jersey so for home defense I am thinking
something on the larger side, maybe a S&W Night Guard in .357 Magnum? Or does
an
autoloader with a higher capacity (maximum 15 round magazines in New Jersey)
make
sense?
Maybe
the
SIG
P220 in .45 ACP?
.22 rifle Suggestions? Id like something I can also teach my son on (he is 7)
in a few years. What do you think of the US Survival .22LR? How big should I
go?
I don't think I'm going to need
something for very big game but who knows. Is a .308 sufficient or should I look
for something
heavier
like a .338 Lapua or a .30-06? Should I also have a tactical rifle? Remember
that New Jersey has a pretty broad definition of "assault rifles" that
are
banned.
Shotguns: Likely would like to have at least one "riotgun" type and
at least one for hunting. Suggestions?
Ammunition: How much is enough?I have seen that Cabela's sells reloaded/remanufactured
rounds in bulk. Are these a good deal or are factory rounds superior to the point
that the bulk reloads should not be considered?
Training: I am planning on taking several of the NRA courses that are available
in my area for each of the weapons types I purchase. I have read the glowing
reports on Front Sight and will try that as well if I can get the time. Any other
suggestions?
I know I have a lot to learn in many areas such as food gathering/storage and
basic survival. I have learned a lot from you already. I appreciate all you do
on this blog, Jim. You provide a great service.
God Bless. - S. in New Jersey
JWR Replies: You are in a difficult locale, but I quite regularly
get similar questions from
consulting clients in Washington DC, Baltimore, and New York City.
I recommend that if you can afford it, that you buy a rural retreat,
and stock it very well. If you prefer a warmer climate, then
I recommend eastern Tennessee. If you don't mind cold and snow, then consider
the Upper Peninsula
of Michigan. Pre-position 90% of of your tools and logistics at your retreat.
If you are worried about burglary, then rent a commercial storage space that
is
near
your
retreat.
As I've mentioned in blog many times, I recommend that you keep always enough
gas in cans on hand for one trip "Outta Dodge"--to get you
to your retreat. (This
ties in with the need to pre-position nearly everything at your retreat.)
In answer to your question on handguns: In New Jersey, your best bet is probably
either a Springfield Armory XD in .45 ACP
or perhaps a Glock Model 21 ( also .45 ACP.) BTW, you should take advantage
of Front Sight's Gun & Gear & Training
offer--that
includes essentially free XD pistol. BTW, low
cost firearms training is also available from the RWVA in the east and the
WRSA in the west.
In answer to your other questions:
>.22 rifle Suggestions? I'd like something I can also teach my son on (he
is 7) in a few years. What do you think of the US Survival .22LR?
The US Survival .22 LR--like all of it predecessors including the original
Armalite AR-7--has a tendency to jam. It also has a fairly rudimentary peep
sight that
in my opinion has an overly-large rear aperture. I recommend that you instead
buy a Rogue
Rifle Company Chipmunk .22
single shot rifle for your son.
Depending on his maturity, you can probably start training him with it under
very close supervision at
age
7. (The Chipmunk
is a tiny rifle. It is made to the minimum dimensions allowable under
Federal
law.)
For the rest of the family, buy a stainless
steel All-Weather Ruger 10/22. Once
your son is about 10 years old,
you can
buy a
spare stock
for
the
Ruger
and saw off about two inches from the butt to provide a shorter length of
pull, for
transitional
training. Slightly used "takeoff" standard birch wood stocks are readily
available
for
under $15 each,
since
Ruger
.22
rifles
are
often used as gun rebuild platforms, typically using fancy laminate target
stocks.
> How big should I go?...
The .308 Winchester will suffice for everything two-legged or four-legged in
North America with the exception of grizzly bears and moose.
>
Should I also have a tactical rifle?...
Keep an inexpensive .308 bolt action in New Jersey and .308 battle rifle (as
well all your magazines over 15 round capacity) in a wall cache at your retreat
in a
free
state. As previously noted in SurvivalBlog I
generally recommend the FAL, L1A1, HK91, AR-10 or M1A. And, FWIW, up until
a week ago, I would have also recommended waiting for the about-to-be-released
Kel-Tec
RFB .308 or the Rock
River Arms (RRA) LAR-8 .308 Caliber, in Mid-Length. However, in today's
market, beggars can't be choosers. Buy whatever .308 battle rifle you can find,
but be sure to line up at least eight spare magazines first.
(You don't want to be stick with a rifle with one magazine!)
>
Shotguns: Likely would like to have at least one "riotgun" type and
at least one for hunting. Suggestions?
Buy a Remington
870 Express 12 gauge Combo set. (These come with both a
bird barrel and riotgun barrel. It takes less than two minutes to switch
barrels. BTW, Mossberg
also produces a quite similar "Combo" set, that is very reasonably
priced. The only drawback is that the Mossberg 500 Combo's bright blued
steel is more prone to rust than the phosphate finish on the Remington
Express
models.
> Ammunition: How much is enough?
"Enough" is a subjective term, depending on the depth and duration
of the situation that you anticipate, how much bartering you plan to do, and
how much
trouble you expect to encounter.
(In an urban or suburban area, you might have to fire hundreds of
warning shots to repel looters. But here at the ranch, we are in the process
of filling at least five deer and elk tags this season, but we'll likely fire
less than 10
cartridges.) If anything, err on the side of larger quantities.
Any ammo that excess to your needs will be worth its weight in gold for barter
and
charity.
>...I have seen that Cabela's sells reloaded/remanufactured
rounds in bulk. Are these a good deal or are factory rounds superior
to the point that the bulk reloads should not be considered?
Bulk reloads are fine for target shooting but only can be depended on for
self defense shooting situations if they come from a reputable maker,
such as Black Hills
Ammunition.
« Letter Re: Deflation Possibly Followed by Mass Inflation? |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: A Suggested Checklist for Preparedness Newbies
Here's a beginner's list I made for my [elderly] father today:
Food
{Brown pearl] rice does not store well. Neither does cooking oil so that needs to be fresh.
No, Crisco doesn't count.
Coconut oil would be your best bet.
Wheat berries - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Beans - 400 pounds - bulk order at your local health food store
Mylar bags
Spices
Salt
Country Living grain mill
propane tanks, small stove and hoses to connect
freeze dried fruits, vegetables, eggs and meat if you can find them.
Water
500 gallons
of water [storage capacity. Rainwater catchment is a common practice
in Hawaii]
Water filter
Cooking
Cast Iron Cookware
Firearms
FN PS 90
10 PS 90 magazines
5.7 handgun
10 FN 5.7 handgun magazines
5.7 ammo
Training: Front Sight four day defensive
handgun course. (Note: eBay sometimes has
course certificates for $100!)
Body armor: Nick at BulletProofME.com
Medical
Personal medications
Augmentin antibiotic
Up to date dental work
Painkillers
Bandages
Iodine
Anti-fungal spray
Finances
$10,000 cash in small bills
100 one-ounce silver coins (GoldDealer.com or Tulving.com)
Transport
Gasoline in 5 gallon cans or better yet, this.
Gas stabilizer
Mountain bikes
Air pump
Miscellany
Flashlights
Rechargeable Batteries
Battery
charger
Hand held walkie talkies
Topographical map of your area
Spare eyeglasses
Shortwave radio
Home generated power
12 volt battery system
Good backpack
Good knife
Good compass
Good shoes
Bar soap
Toothbrushes
Dental floss
Toilet paper
Fishing kit
Salt licks
Connibear traps
Regards, - SF in Hawaii
JWR Adds: The following is based on the assumption that SF's
father also lives in Hawaii: Because of the 10 round magazine limit for handguns,
I recommend that Hawaiians purchase only large
bore
handguns for self defense--such
as .45
ACP.
Both the
Springfield
Armory XD .45 Compact or the Glock Model 30 would both be good choices. The "high
capacity" advantage of smaller caliber
handguns
is not available to civilians in Hawaii, so you might as well get a more potent
man stopper, given the arbitrary 10 round limitation.
« Letter Re: Some Changes in American Wholesale Food Distribution |Main| Note from JWR: »
Full Capacity Magazine Price Increases are Already Here
Regarding my recommendation to stock up on full capacity magazines, reader
David B. noted this in an e-mail yesterday morning: "[The discount mail
order dealer] Cheaper
Than Dirt [is] already gouging us based on our fear of Obama being elected.
Overnight, their price for Mag-Pul [brand AR-15/M16] magazines went from $15.97
each to $29.97 each. Wow. They just lost my business forever." David's
note intrigued, me, so I just spent some time at the Cheaper
Than Dirt (CTD) web site and compared their new prices with their latest
hard copy
catalog (dated November, 2008). Here is a brief sampling:
Glock Model 20, 21, 22, 31, and 32 full capacity factory magazines were
all $19.97. Now some are $29.97 and others $39.97 Ouch!
Glock 33 rd. 9mm magazines were $44.97. Now $49.97 (Note: I bought a pile
of these for $26 each, about a year ago, and I'm glad that I did!)
Ruger factory 20 rd. Mini-14 magazines were $59.97. Now $69.97
Beta CMAG 100 rd. double snail drum for Mini-14 were $299.97. Now $399.97
LR .308 19 Round Blued Steel mags made by DPMS (for their flavor of AR-10
rifles) were $39.97. Now $49.97 (But out of stock)
M14 and M1A .308 20 Round Parkerized "Military Style" [commercial copy]
were $11.97. Now $29.97 (But out of stock)
AR-15 .223 30 Round, Bushmaster factory mags were $29.97. Now $49.97
FN P90/PS90 5.7x28mm
50 rd. magazines dropped from $69.97 to $59.81 (At least
a some good news!)
All in all, I have doubts that the aforementioned price increases were all
triggered by CTD's suppliers. But I wouldn't go so far as to call the increases "gouging". Pricing
is a function of supply and demand. In a free market, prices eventually
reach equilibrium. And I'm sure that the current demand is skyrocketing.
I certainly know that my personal demand is! For example, I just
placed a "top
off the inventory" order
with one of my favorite suppliers, CDNN
Sports. I was pleased to see that as of yesterday, none of their
prices had increased. I did notice however, that they are now sold
out of many
magazines, including quite a few SIG, HK, and Springfield Armory XD pistol
magazines. My advice: Stock
up
now, while magazines are still available at fairly reasonable prices. I
anticipate that there will be some significant shortages for the next few months.
But after BHO's
inauguration in early 2009 all bets are off. If, (as
I've predicted), an executive
order banning importation
of so-called "assault weapons" and "high capacity" magazines
is enacted, there could be some huge price increases!
« Letter Re: Advice on Storage Food--Quantities, Shelf Lives, and Sources |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Some Observations on Registered Class 3 Guns and Suppressors
Mr. Rawles:
To suppress or not to suppress: there is no question. (A hat tip to The Bard.)
Many in the preparedness community are apprehensive about the acquisition of ["Class
3"] National Firearms Act (NFA)
items. [These include machineguns, short-barreled rifles (SBRs),
short-barreled
shotguns (SBSs),
and
sound
suppressors.
There
is
a background check, fingerprinting, paperwork required, and a $200 tax per
transfer.]
There
are
reams
of
writings
about "remaining
under
the
radar".
I do not share those misgivings. Neither do tens of thousands of other legitimate
gun owners. A caveat: under no circumstances should anyone build/construct/
any NFA style weapon or device. The penalties, legal and hazard to shooters
are
not
worth the effort. If you want the right to inventory said items and you live
in a state which prohibits the same, then move. Follow the legal steps
required
to
obtain them.
Sleep better. Enjoy!
First a few facts.
There are the following weapons, devices, the predominant number in civilian
hands. The information is derived from Small Arms Review magazine,
May 2008. Some of the numbers are civilian police, manufacturers and private
security agencies.
Again, the overwhelming number is in civilian hands. A grand display of this
fact is the Knob Creek shoot and the hundreds (thousands?) of auto weapons
matches all over the nation.
National statistics. (from the BATFE)
158,671 suppressors. 36,536 short barreled rifles. 97,903 short barreled
shotguns. 49,052 AOW (Any
other weapons). 400,739 automatic
weapons. Remarkable. Again, most of these are in private collections.
There has been only one prosecution of a licensed
owned or a Class 3 for misuse since the 1934 act that established the NFA regimen.
A police officer used a
department
registered
sub-gun
to kill
his wife.
There exists no other case law according to a close friend who defends many
gun related cases. There are no statistics on destructive devices (DDs)
.
My home state. 2,427 suppressors. 485 short barreled rifles. 1,038 short barreled
shotguns. 691 AOWs, and 5,489 automatic weapons.
My first acquisition of NFA interest was in the late 1970s. It has continued
ever since.
Another fact. Any small arm up to the .50 BMG can
be suppressed, including shotguns. Except revolvers. I refer to Small Arms
Review again. In my opinion the best
monthly reference on small arms within most budgets.
There are number of auto weapons in my inventory. My passion is suppression.
This post will concern suppressors otherwise known as "cans".
My first acquisition was an Ingram gun in .45 ACP.
Cost? $150 [, in the late 1970s.]. They are now listing near $3,500. (Investment
is a great excuse for acquisition) A MAC-10
without a can is a contradiction. I acquired a RPB can with plastic wipes.
Replaced the wipes (they add noise and add inaccuracy) with a convex muzzle
wipe. There
are
10,000 rounds through that combo, without a malfunction. Ken
Hacakthorn, in the 1980s said that this combo is "good for a gunfight
in a phone booth". I find
it good
to 25 yards or less. Hmmmmm....Would you prefer a slab side [M1911]
with 8-to-10 rounds or the MAC combo with 30 rounds?
Next came the SSG in .308. I sent off to Ciener for a can. Mine was the first
suppressed [Steyr] SSG 69
in the nation. Reduces report to a dull thud when heard downrange.
Adds
accuracy
as almost all muzzle cans do. If you acquire such, match projectile to twist.
Use full power loads, ball or whatever. Most subsonic ammo uses 200 grain projectiles.
In the usual 1/10 twist .30 caliber weapons this could result in a baffle strike
(internal) and ruin the can or the weapon. Same goes for light projectiles.
Match projo with twist. Enjoy.
Then a Ciener can for the .223 788 Remington. Death to varmints. In the ensuing
years there has been added; a Ciener Ruger MKI with integral suppression. Also
a Johns Guns 10/22,
again integral.
A note on integral suppression. All integrally
suppressed cans are meant to be shot with high velocity ammunition. These manufacturers
port (drill holes) in the barrel close to the chamber. Usually the barrels
are shortened in handguns. It is critical to use the right ammunition. Do not use
the Mexican Aguila .22 60 grain ammo. Remember, match twist with projectiles!
Baffle strikes [very bad things] are most common in .22 rimfires. The suppression
quality
is
astonishing
in .22s. Some makers build their products to be easy to self maintain/clean.
Ciener did not. Johns guns and others do. Inquire before purchase.
For quiet elimination of pests I have a Ruger 77/22 with a can from Gary's
Guns Inc. of Waukesha, Wisconsin. Cheap and effective. There is also a Marlin
.17HMR
with a Gemtech can. I spoke with Dr. Phil Dater about this one. He enjoyed
prairie dogging so much with his .17 he had to invent a can for idid.
Other cans are Gemtech on an M16. There are significant reports of serious
hearing damage to troops in Iraq due to shooting inside buildings or vehicles.
Cans prevent
this. The downside, cans superheat in full auto fire and are best employed
in semi-auto. Cans also blowback lots of fouling due to their gas entrapment.
Malfunctions
increase with the use of cans on auto weapons. Its a tradeoff most preppers
could accept. I do.
The M92 Beretta, the Walther.22, the Marlin Camp Carbines in .45 ACP and 9mm,
and other do nicely with cans.
Ciener made a nice can for one of the bolt guns.from Old State Arms Company
(They make .50
caliber rifles)
There is also a Gemtech can which I can transfer between either of my two
Bushmaster .308s.
There are a total of 17 cans in my inventory. I have also fired cans on the
HK MP5
(integral), The MK2 STEN (integral) Both ran well. (I am a certified instructor
with HK).
Needless to say further acquisitions are planned.
Preferences. Many states, mine own included, have no law or administrative
code on using cans for hunting. Be sure to check your state laws and fish &
game regulations!
I prefer muzzle cans with the Gemtech Bi-lock mounting systems. Threaded muzzle
cans should come with a thread protector when the can is dismounted. My MK1
Ruger from Ciener had to be disassembled after 5,000 rounds or so. I had to
take it
to a gunsmith to dismount due to sealants which Superglued the assembly shut.The
lesson here: If you require repairs/maintenance that you cannot do yourself,
Make sure that your repair point is in possession of the proper Federal License.
Ordinary gunsmithies cannot take in such work. you hand over a
NFA weapon or device for
repair, and you are not present [in the shop from beginning to end] for said
work, then that is an illegal transfer. Illegal. 'Nuff said?
There is a plethora of can makers in the market. I have cans from Ciener (no
longer manufacturing cans) Gemtech is among the best. RPG is defunct. AWC makes
good stuff, as does Special Ops Shop and others.
Cans are cheap. Most running
$200-to-$900 depending on integral (you pay for the gun too)...Bi-locks and
muzzle boosters add to costs.
Wet versus dry cans. I have hundreds of rounds through "wet" cans.
Some require filling with water. Others require grease packing. Water (wet)
cans
require refilling
to maintain efficacy. A pain in the gunfight. I have one grease pack can. Effective
on the Marlin Camp Carbine. Leaves a smoke signature after rapid fire, which
is not good. Without a booster, it causes malfunctions on the Glock 21.
Lesson, stick to dry cans.
Cost to register [each item in the U.S.]? $200. - Mr. X
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: The Icelanders' Tangibles Shopping Spree »
Letter Re: Everyday Carry Pocketknife Recommendation?
Jim
Like you, I'm constantly trying to find out what the best knives are. There
are so many, at so many different prices, that it is easy to get sidetracked.
With the articles my friend Phil Elmore and I write at The
Martialist,
we have gone through hundreds of knives over the years. Some great, some are
not so spectacular.
Let me tell you about the ones I have grown fond of. Not all of them are cheap,
but many are.
1. CRKT Grant Hawk D.O.G.
[deadbolt over grabstep] Lock. Its an open body, easily sharpened folder with
a strong
lock that is almost
impossible to defeat. CRKT no
longer makes them, but the D.O.G. lock is available on eBay all the time. Easy
to clean if you use
it to dress a game animal as well.
2. Spyderco Para Military. A shortened, easier to handle version of the large
Military, I know of several soldiers, hunters and first responders who carry
these in their go bags.
3. CRKT M-21 Carbon fiber special forces. I chose it because I think the tanto
blade, which is used in the M-16 series, is really only useful for cutting
someone out of a wreck, a crashed plane, or fighting with a goblin who is wearing
body armor.
4.Spyderco waved Endura. If you can get it in VG-10 steel, the Endura is a
top flight choice. The wave feature was designed by Ernie Emerson and first
came out in their Emerson Commander. The wave makes it a simple matter to open
the knife one handed.
5.If one looks hard enough, it's easy to find a used Spyderco Chinook II folder
on eBay. Designed by James Keating, that knife is robust enough to field dress
an Elk, help cut up wood for campfires and yes, even use in self defense against
an attacker if you get caught away from your handgun or shotgun.
What about fixed blades?
I like my Fallkniven F-1
fixed blade. Its designed right, with respect to the designs of Loveless, and
is useful as a pilot's knife. I know of at least one
army pilot in Iraq who has one strapped to his web gear every day as he goes
out in his Blackhawk helicopter. Mine has been used to field dress three deer,
a friend borrowed it to cut up a black bear with, and I've carried it during
every camping trip for
three years.
At this point, mine is in the go bag in the back seat of my Ford Explorer,
along with camping gear, several loaded glock mags and numerous shotgun shells.
The great thing is, any of these knives can be found for less than a hundred
dollar bill. - Lawrence K.
« How to Buy in Quantity When on a Tight Budget, by Robert in Arizona |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: Everyday Carry Pocketknife Recommendation?
Mr. Rawles:
I've seen your recommendations
on guns for survival situations, but what do
recommend for "Everyday
Carry" kinda pocket knives? And what do you carry personally? Thanks,
- H.Y.
JWR Replies: My general preference is for
"low-end" stainless steel folding knives with a positive lock,
and with tanto-style tips. In my experience tantos are less prone to getting
broken
tips. For versatility,
I
also
tend toward knives that are serrated in the back half of the blade. (Commonly
called
"50/50" or "half-serrated".)
My everyday carry knife is an extra large (5" blade) Cold
Steel 29 XTH Voyager.
On occasions when
I need something smaller, I carry a CRKT M16
with a 2.75-inch blade. Again,
it is
stainless, half serrated, and has tanto style tip. During deer and elk season, a I substitute a Case clip-point folder.
It is noteworthy that I've never spent more than $55 for one of my pocketknives--and
far less for most. (I buy a lot of used knives at gun shows and on
eBay. Why pay full retail?) My philosophy is that a
knife is is an everyday tool to use, not
an object of art to admire. If I owned a really nice custom knife, then I'd
probably baby it, fearing that I might somehow damage it. And if I were
to lose
it out in the field, a $300+ Chris Reeve folder, it would be a heartbreaking
experience. But by buying mass-produced knives, I avoid both of those issues.
I don't abuse
my
knifes,
but I don't shy away from giving them honest, hard use. I'd also much rather
own six $50
knives than one $300 knife. That fits with the
SurvivalBlog preparedness philosophy of "two is one, and one is none."
OBTW, when shopping for used pocketknives, one trick I've discovered to use
when searching eBay is to search
on the desired brand name AND knives AND TSA, by searching both titles
and descriptions (or alternatively, the desired brand name AND knives AND
confiscated. These searches will show you lots of used knives
that were confiscated by airport
screeners. These
are
often name brand knives sold
in
groups of 2
to 10, typically resulting with winning bids between 10% to 30% of normal
retail.
« Letter Re: Becoming a Food Warrior |Main| Retreat Owner Profile--Mr. & Mrs. Tico in Costa Rica »
Letter Re: Buying Just One Gun?
Mr. Rawles:
I'm a survivalist newbie. I'm thinking about purchasing a gun. I don't know
anything about guns, but I have had a negative opinion about them for a long
time. But [now] I'm thinking I might need to get one. What would you recommend
for a total novice who would prefer to not have to own more than one?
JWR Replies: Owning one gun is like owning one carpenter's
tool, and expecting it to handle all of your construction and repair needs.
What single tool would you choose? A hammer, a pair of pliers, a saw, or a
screwdriver? That may be oversimplifying, but I'm sure that you get my point.
I suppose that some could get by with two guns,
namely: one shotgun (for both big game and bird hunting and self defense) and
a .22 rimfire rifle (for small game hunting). But you'd still lack having a
compact gun for concealment, and you'd also lack a long range rifle to defend
yourself or hunt at long distance. (Shotguns don't "reach" beyond
about 80 yards, even with slug shells.)
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Saving Your Life and Saving Your Relationships--Don't Drive Your Loved Ones Away »
Letter Re: Advice for an Unprepared Greenhorn
Jim,
I'd recommend that "Greenhorn" should take a look at your "Profiles" page.
I learned as much reading them as I do reading the blog! As you say, starting
a "List
of Lists" is invaluable to preparedness. It is the only
way I can keep track of what I have on hand, whether it be too much or too
little. And, just because I know it is a weak spot with everybody, more medical
supplies is always a good thing.
Also, most gun shops have a layaway program, so it's possible to at least start
paying on another rifle or handgun. When you get one of these items, make sure
the ammo to feed it is your very next purchase! I'd rather have just a couple
of good, solid guns and lots of ammo, than a lot of cool-guy stuff and only
one
magazine
of ammo for each.
Make a habit of checking eBay, Craig's
List and the local papers for good deals
on things. If there is a sale at the local department store, I strongly recommend "buying
ahead." Meaning, buying children's winter clothing in the spring when
the stores are trying to clear it out, and buying a couple of sizes up. Same
with
shoes. Another great investment. This is one of those tangible investments
that Jim speaks of all the time!
Most of all, stay calm! Breathe! Even having a few extra cases of beans and
rice will put you ahead of most of your neighbors. Make sure the whole family
is involved, and especially that your wife is your partner in everything you
do. Take care. - SJC
« Letter Re: Questions on Short Term Survival in an Urban Office Building |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Two Letters Re: Advice for City Folks on a Budget?
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I am writing to ask for your advice and for your charity, and also because
I think this subject may be of interest to many of your readers. I discovered
your web site a week ago and have found it to be both very informative and
also very alarming! It was major wake-up call for me.
In my opinion, I am not at all prepared for the upheavals that are already
underway and that lie ahead of us.
I would very much like to change that situation, but it all (considered as
a whole) seems so overwhelming. I don't know what to do, where to start and
how to go about it. Also, I don't feel that I have the same resources and freedom
as some of your other readers.
I also have the feeling that many, perhaps most, of your readers may be in
exactly the same situation as me:
I am a 50 year old average guy with a wife and two young children to support.
I work in a medium sized metropolitan area and live in an average house in
the suburbs, about 10 miles out of town, on a 1/5th acre lot. My kids go to
public school, my wife works part-time and I work full-time. We depend on the
income
from my job to support the family. It is not the kind of job that allows me
to just uproot myself and live out in the sticks. My wife and I make just enough
to pay the bills and set aside a little bit for my 401(k) [retirement
savings account]and my kids' college education. We do not own any real estate
aside from our home.
We have about
$50,000 in savings, $90,000 in home equity and about $190,000 in my 401(k)
.
In my opinion, we are not prepared at all for any sort of natural, economic,
social or political upheaval or disaster:
- We don't own a ranch or farm or remote property of any kind.
- We don't own gold or silver.
- We don't own any weapons and don't know how to use them.
- We don't have any food or emergency supplies stored up.
- Our house is not "hardened" or "secure".
- We don't have a generator, etc.
- We are not EMTs and don't know how to grow crops or butcher a hog.
- We don't have a G.O.O.D. plan or vehicle or provisions.
In short, we are probably just like most of the other average families in the
USA (and perhaps like most of your readers) except for our awareness of the
problems that may be coming and our desire to be prepared.
My wife and I both believe in being "prepared" but my idea and hers
are different. My wife things that the problems we are facing are temporary,
so she would like to be prepared too, but she doesn't want to rock the boat
or uproot our family to do it. I am alarmed and would like to be very well
prepared, but I don't want to wreck my marriage and family in the process.
Mr. Rawles, please tell us what we can do given the situation I've described.
What specific steps should we take and in what order? What would you do if
you were me in my shoes?
I know you get a lot of letters, but I sure hope you answer this one on your
web site. For my sake, for my family's sake and for the sake of what may be
hundreds or thousands of people just like me that read your web site and want
to do something but don't know what to do, how to do it, where to start and
what's most important to do first, second, third etc.
Thank you in advance for your kind consideration. - Mike H.
Hello Jim,
I've been reading your blog off and on for several months, but I've yet to
see anything substantial for us poorer citizens. When it comes to TEOTWAWKI,
then it's all well and good if you were wealthy enough to be able to afford
a nice out-of-the-way location to save yourself, but what of us who are stuck
in an apartment in the city, like Denver? Or worse, people in metropolises
like Chicago and New York? Where could millions of people all possibly go
to get away from it all? All we can do is to arm ourselves to the teeth and
wait it out? We'd like to get out of the city too, but we aren't able to
buy property, which is why we're stuck in apartments, rather than homes.
I'm afraid that if such a disaster should come our way, then we will be on
our own. Even if we have a network of people, they are often driving distances
that are impractical in a time of extreme crisis. Do you have any suggestions
for those of us with extremely limited incomes? I've searched your site,
but if you did have something, I may have missed it.
Thanks, - Ken R.
JWR Replies: I realize that buying a rural
retreat is not within the means of most SurvivalBlog readers.
There have been quite a few articles on both urban survival and budget conscious
survival, and they are available in the archives, all of course free of charge.
OBTW, a brief description of how to search the archives can be found here.
Here are a few SurvivalBlog letters and articles that I found in just a few
minutes of searches, using "urban" and "budget" in my search phrases. (There
are
many
more available.):
Budget
Preparedness--Survival Isn't About Stuff, It is About Skills
Letter Re: Hunkering Down in an Urban Apartment in a Worst Case Societal Collapse
Letter
Re: An Urban/Suburban "Stay Put" Survival Strategy
Ten Things That Will Get You Killed While Bugging In, by Paul C.
Letter Re: Advice on a Budget Water Filter
Selecting a Rifle for a Budget-Constrained Prepper
Letter
Re: Preparedness on a Very Tight Budget (Also see: Follow-up
letter from
J.F.,
and Follow-up
letter from R.L.)
Letter
Re: Advice for a Canadian with a "Just One Gun" Budget
Letter Re: Will Peasant Farmers Fare Better than the Rich in TEOTWAWKI?
SurvivalBlog is intended
for people from all walks of life. One point of clarification: My own income
is quite modest. In fact, if I still lived in a high cost region, then I
wouldn't be able to afford a mortgage payment on a three bedroom house. It
is only
because
I've
been preparing very gradually and systematically for 30 years that I now
have a squared-away retreat here in The Unnamed Western State. And it is only
by God's grace that I have a wife that is agreeable to living in the boonies,
and that I'm able to work
from home.
Regardless of your income level, start
with a list of lists. Tailor your procurement plan based on your personal
circumstances and to match what you see as the most likely chain of events. Just
be
systematic, and set your priorities carefully. The smaller your budget, then
the
more
important this is.
In answer to the question on 401(k) accounts: Many 401(k) accounts can be
rolled over into IRAs.
If that is the case, then I recommend doing a rollover into a Gold IRA, available
through Swiss
America Trading Company. I have had a gold coin IRA since 1998. Once established,
these accounts are measured in an "ounce" value with
a "Beginning Cost Basis" noted for when your dollars were first
converted into U.S. Gold Eagles. In my case, most of the one ounce Gold
Eagle bullion coins they put in storage for me cost $315 each (IIRC, this was
when spot gold was $298 per ounce). Gold has nearly tripled since then. The
coins
are
physically
stored
by Goldstar
Trust, a bonded vault company in Texas.
The annual storage and administration fee is now $90 per
year, but in my opinion that is a small price to pay for knowing that when
I eventually cash out my IRA it will be in tangible form,
rather than an investment vehicle denominated in dollars. I have no way of
knowing
how much
the US Dollar
will depreciate in the next 15 years, but it is pretty safe to say that gold
will still have the same--or nearly the same--buying power that it does today.
I strongly recommend that if you have an IRA or 401(k) account that you conduct
a fund rollover into a Gold
IRA.
« Letter Re: Making Alternatives to Commercial Chemical Light Sticks |Main| From The Memsahib: Saving Your Life and Saving Your Relationships--Don't Drive Your Loved Ones Away »
Letter Re: Advice for an Unprepared Greenhorn
Hello Mr. Rawles!
I love your blog, and visit at least weekly, more often
daily.
The current economic situation is sickening. I mean, actually making my
stomach hurt, as I am not prepared. I just recently was hit
on the head with
the motivation
to get prepared. The only problem with that is that I don't even know where
to start. Food? Weapons and Ammunition? Medical supplies? I am the patriarch
of a family of 4. My wife and I, and our two children, both 10 and under. What
I could use your advice on is just what I mentioned before, where does someone
like me start. We have very little money, we live in the city, and we have
no supplies except a Remington 870 Express [12 gauge shotgun] with a couple
boxes
of
ammunition and food from the grocery store for a couple weeks and our camping
supplies
which amount to a couple days in the woods. I'm extremely worried that I simply
won't be able to help my family survive the coming collapse. I want to be prepared,
and I'm motivated.
Thank you for any time you could donate with your advice! - MWS
JWR Replies: Start out by getting a good quality water filter
such as the Katadyn VARIO currently on sale at Ready Made Resources and
stocking up
on canned foods.
If you don't yet already have one, buy a
spare riot "Police" length
20" barrel with rifle-type iron sights for your Model 870, with "IC" (improved
cylinder) choke, or better yet the "Rem Choke" removable choke tubes.
These
barrels are
available
with
a
durable
finish
to match your "Express" variant.
Buy at least 200 rounds of #4 buckshot, 25 rounds (five boxes of 5) of rifled
slugs, and when you can budget for it, a case of #6 birdshot shells for bird
hunting
and
small
game
hunting
Since your resources are limited, your greatest opportunity to increase your
chances of survival will
be
teaming up with like-minded folks in your area. For some suggestions, see my
static page on Finding
Like-Minded People
in Your Area.
Be sure to take advantage of low cost training through the American
Red Cross,
the Appleseed Program, and the WRSA.
Pray hard, study hard, and train hard.
« Five Letters Re: Welding Oxygen Versus Medical Oxygen |Main| Letter Re: The EMP Threat May Be Worse Than We Had Thought »
Range Report: Advantage Arms .22 Conversion Kit for the Glock, by Everyday Prepper
To start off let me say I'm in no way affiliated Advantage Arms or Glock. I
don't get paid to advertise or test their products and I definitely don't
get paid to write reviews.
I took the Glock out today with the Advantage
Arms conversion kit installed.
I wasn't exactly skeptical of the kit after reading about it online but I was
expecting to have some sort of break in period. I opened the kit up and out
fell an orange piece of paper that instructed me to put some oil on the parts
in the picture. I grabbed the oil they shipped with the kit, put the drops
on the slide where they wanted me to and rubbed the oil with my finger to spread
it around some.
I took a piece of standard 8.5"x11" sheet of printer paper and hung
it up. Next I paced off 10 meters and turned to fire. The magazine seated perfectly
just
like my original Glock magazines. I chambered the first round took aim and
pulled the trigger. Bang! Nice, I thought. There was almost
no recoil and the gun hit pretty close to where I was aiming. I went ahead
and fired a few more
at a slow and controlled speed then I just let the last six or so speed their
way to the target as fast as I could reasonably regain my sight picture. At
the end of those 10, I went up to the piece of paper and measured the spread
of hits and they all fell within a three inch circle, save one. (Though I think
that one was me getting a little trigger happy.)
I finished the day by placing 10 to 20 targets out and running training drills
to help with quicker target acquisition and movement. I fired in the neighborhood
of 120 rounds (give or take five rounds) and never had a jam or malfunction
of any kind.
It wasn't an intense break-in but I was impressed at the quality, feel and
accuracy of the kit.
If Advantage Arms wouldn't have stamped their name on the slide you wouldn't
even know it was a company other than Glock that created the kit. With the
market for these kits (I waited eight weeks while they caught up on back orders)
I'm surprised Glock hasn't jumped on this boat and started creating their own.
I'm not a professional instructor but I think the advantages to this kit are
obvious. While I'm not shooting my standard caliber with its standard recoil
I'm getting much more training time in and it's much cheaper. I can practice
every drill and training exercise I know for five times as long thanks to the
cost savings. If you are worried about the recoil and muscle memory issues
you can always finish your shooting day with your original caliber by removing
the kit (as simple as field stripping the Glock) and putting your original
hardware back in place.- Everyday
Prepper
JWR Adds: Advantage Arms also makes .22 LR conversion kits
for Model 1911 pistols, with an equally good reputation. Both of these conversion
kits are available via mail order to US customers with no FFL paperwork,
since they do not include a pistol frame.
-
Everyday
Prepper.
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Letter Re: Firearms Battery Recommendations
Mr. Rawles,
Thanks for all of the informative posts at SurvivalBlog. Based on your recommendations,
I've put together the following list of firearms (all I currently own is a
38 year old .22 rifle):
- Springfield XD .45 ACP ($568) -- for concealed carry, self defense
- Mossberg
Model 500 Special Purpose Mariner 12 gauge Shotgun 9 Shot ($423) -- for
home defense, hunting
-
Remington Model 700 Varmint Tactical Rifle .308 Winchester, 22 in
with Muzzle Brake, Bolt Action ($643) -- for hunting, possible tactical/precision
use in
TEOTWAWKI scenarios
- Rock
River Arms LAR-8 .308 Caliber Standard A2/A4 Rifle ($1,170) -- for
tactical use in TEOTWAWKI scenarios
I wanted to only have to stock one rifle ammo so I tried to choose a hunting/precision
rifle and an AR rifle that could use the same cartridges.
What is your assessment of the selections I made? I would really appreciate
any suggestions before I make the purchases.
I never served in the military and have no experience with hunting rifles
or ARs,
so after I make the purchases I plan to get some training from a good local
instructor. However, I wanted to get trained on my own firearms
so I
can become familiar with them.
So, I need advice about the following related items so that I make wise
purchases that all work well together since this is an area in which I have
no experience:
1. Sight recommendations for both rifles (I live on 10+ heavily-wooded acres
in the Virginia Blue Ridge mountains)
2. Recommendations for LAR-8 magazines (exactly what to buy, recommended
web sites)
3. Ammo sources/recommendations. I was considering .308 Win (7.62x51mm)
145 grain Prvi Partizan .
I wanted to lay in a large stock of ammo that I could use in either of the
two rifles and didn't know if this was a good selection or not. I don't
want to buy good guns and bad ammo. I need recommendations and sources that
a
newbie can follow without getting ripped off.
4. Ammo recommendations for the handgun and shotgun. There are so many choices,
it's hard to decide. (manufacturer, cartridge and shell recommendations)
5. I would also appreciate a concise list of minimum spare parts / accessories
I should consider for the firearms I purchase and supplier recommendations.
Thanks again for all of your help.- ALG
JWR Replies: That would make an excellent, quite versatile
battery.
IMO, the Remington 700 is a bit over-priced, compared to the Savage Model 10
series, which is functionally identical (every bit as accurate), and costs
about $250 less.
Since you live in a heavily-wooded area, you probably won't need a long-range
rifle, but it might come in handy. Consider it your lowest priority purchase.
In answer to your questions:
1.Since you are in heavily-wooded country,
leave the LAR-8 set up with iron sights. A scope on a battle rifle only makes
sense in open country. However, you might want to get a low-power starlight
scope for night security. I recommend the Trijicon 3-9x40mm Trophy Point
scope for your bolt action. With a tritium-lit
reticle, it will give you better night shooting capability than a traditional
scope. Trijicon scopes
are available from CGW one
of our loyal advertisers.)
2. Buy
either standard military surplus 20 round metric FN-FAL magazines,
or inch pattern L1A1 magazines. The Israeli metric magazines were made on Belgian
(FN) tooling and are some of the best metric magazines. You can get these
from several vendors including WhatACountry.com.
Inch magazines are more scarce, but they are a bit more sturdy than the metric
magazines. If you can find them for under $16 each, then buy inch (L1A1) magazines.
Otherwise buy metric. (Which can be had for as little as $8 each, in quantity.)
You can often find inch magazines on The
FAL Files Marketplace Forum, or on Buddy's
Board.
3. The Prvi ammo has had mixed reviews, possibly because of un-even quality
control, so I don't recommend it. A good factory load that can be used in both
your rifles
is the ubiquitous white box Winchester "USA" 150 grain full metal
jacket 7.62mm NATO. (Although it won't have quite the peak accuracy
of 168 grain match grade, in your bolt action. But that isn't a big issue unless
you are shooting more
than 400 yards.)
For all of your ammo purchases, shop around for the best prices. It is best
to buy each caliber all at once, so that the ammo will come from the same manufacturer's
lot. (for consistent accuracy.) For recommendations on discount ammo vendors,
see
this SurvivalBlog post. Once you've identified the best prices by mail order,do
some comparison pricing at a major gun show. Bring cash so that you don't leave
a paper trail.
4. For the XD-45: Federal HydraShok .45 ACP, 230 grain
For the riotgun: Winchester or Remington #4 Buckshot 12 gauge, and a much smaller
supply of 12 gauge Brenneke Rifled Slugs
5. A spare firing pin, extractor, and ejector for each gun
is a good starting point. OBTW, if your Mossberg comes with a plastic safety
switch, then upgrade
it to a sturdier aftermarket steel switch.
For a source for spare parts for Springfield Armory XD pistols, see
this SurvivalBlog post.
Buy the LAR-8 parts directly from Rock River Arms.
For the LAR-8 rifle, in addition to the aforementioned spare firing pin, extractor,
and ejector, you should also buy:
1- firing pin retaining pin
1- extractor retaining pin
1- ejector retaining pin
1- buffer retaining pin
1 pr.- handguards (the most fragile part of the rifle, in my experience)
To get your XD .45 pistol free with some top-notch training, highly I recommend
that you take advantage of Front
Sight's "Get a Gun" training and gear package offer. It is worth
flying across the country to take Front Sight's Four Day Defensive Handgun
course. The
Memsahib and I have both taken it, and it outstanding.
« Letter Re: Pistol Holster Recommendations for Women |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Controlling Your Inner Gun Nut--Balanced Preparations are a Must
Hello Jim,
Like many readers I have always been somewhat of a gun nut. Back when I was
young and single I spent a lot of money on guns and ammo including items I
didn't really need that have since accumulated over time. I was single and
had money to spend. Fast forward to the present with wife and kids and money
is tight. There is not much left for prepping. So I decided
to take stock of what I really need for my core battery of weapons/ammo and
sell the rest and use the proceeds for prepping. Here are some lessons learned:
It's important to have balance in your preparations between weapons and everything
else. An M1A battle
rifle is no more important than a Troy-Bilt tiller or a good pair of Danner
boots. Ammunition has appreciated greatly in value and
been an excellent investment (although [that was] not my original intent).
My stocks of 7.62x54r, 7.62x39 and .303 British have at least doubled or tripled
in value.
A friend recently stated that Portuguese 7.62 NATO [ammunition in sealed battle
packs] would have been a much better investment than gold. It would be nice
to hold onto this ammunition longer and allow it to appreciate some more but
there are other critical supplies that take precedence. You are correct when
you state "tangibles, tangibles, tangibles" as a store of value.
Hope this provokes some thought. - Jeff in Ohio
JWR Replies: Your observations are spot on. Prioritizing and logistical balance are crucial.
I can personally
attest that Portuguese 7.62 NATO battle packs were indeed a great investment.
Because of the Memsahib's recent large hospitalization expenses, I've been
forced to liquidate many of my tangibles. For example, I recently sold two
cases of "Port". (Each wooden case has 1,000 rounds, packed in 200
round battle packs. Each case weighs about 65 pounds.) These cases cost me
$180 each
in 2001. I just sold them for $475 each, and I've seen them recently sell for
as much as $500 each. It is notable that there are very few bonds, stocks,
or other investments that have appreciated so well
in
four
years.
My
only regret
is that I couldn't afford to buy 30 or 40 cases at $180 each! As some of the characters
in my novel often lament: "Oh well. Hindsight is 20/20."
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Survival Medicine and Ditch Medicine, by Josh in Montana »
Letter Re: Some Storage SNAFUs
Jim:
Why do the incredibly robust "cheap" imported AKs have chrome lined bores ,
yet some of the expensive and finicky American-made ARs not chrome
lined? Well, if you live in a humid climate, it makes a difference. I
made
the classic
error of storing my guns in gun cases. In fact, that's the worst way to store
them as the humidity accumulates inside. One of them had nearly rusted
solid in three years.
Thanks to the ministrations of another firearm enthusiast, all my guns are
being de-rusted, dipped in preservative oil and mylar bagged along with oxygen
absorbents, rust inhibitor tabs and desiccants.
I don't want to talk about what happened to the barrel of my M21 so just don't
ask. If you live in a humid climate, then consider the PS90. Mostly plastic,
hi capacity, very ergonomic.
I also learned about the weight limitations of gamma seals. I just noticed
that when I put ammo in five gallon buckets with Gamma seal ls on them, if
I go over three buckets high, the bottom seal breaks and falls into the bucket.
Now I limit it to two high and only lightweight buckets on top. - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: Thanks for being so frank. Perhaps other readers
learn from your mistakes and avoid some costly problems.
A humid climate
dictates
extreme vigilance for gun storage. Here is my general guidance:
1.) Clean thoroughly, lubricate heavily, an a inspect frequently.
2.) If storing guns in a vault or a wall cache, invest in a Golden Rod dehumidifier.
But don't expect it to be a miracle panacea. Mark your calendar with reminders
for
monthly inspections!
3.) Never, ever use a muzzle cap for more than an hour or two. They are for use
in the field, not for storage!
4.) R.I.G., silica
gel, and and VCI
paper are your friends.
5.) If you use grease or a heavy coating of oil in a gun bore and/or its chamber,
then be sure to tag the gun with a prominent reminder to yourself
to remove the
grease
it
before
firing.
(Not doing so can be a safety hazard!)
5.) Do NOT use oxygen absorbing packets for gun storage!
These are designed specifically to kill insect larvae in stored food. These
packets
use
a chemical reaction of moisture, salt, and ferric oxide (rust!) to consume
the oxygen in a confined space. These packets can be bad news for stored
guns.
Instead, I recommend that you use silica gel to prevent rust. Silica gel packets
also
have
the
advantage
that
they
can
be re-used many times if you dry them out in an oven or a dehydrator overnight.
(Since they employ a chemical reduction process, oxygen
absorbing
packets
can only be used once.)
« Letter Re: Perennial Food Crop, Vines, and Trees |Main| Note from JWR: »
How To Make Den-Type Game Traps, by Terry B.
Den Traps are my favorite type of trap, and knowing how to make and use them
may be the most important survival skill you ever acquire. Once you grasp this
concept, you will have the ability to provide fresh meat for yourself, friends,
and family, for the rest of your life. So, what is a den trap? Den Traps are
the best permanent trap design ever invented. A den trap is simply an artificial
den or burrow, built to shelter wild game animals until you are ready to harvest
them.
A Den Trap has many advantages over any other type of trap. The trap is permanent,
and will provide you with game for years, or even decades. It will catch many
different types of game, and no bait is required. It is always set; one animal
going in will not lock others out, so you can catch several animals at once,
and may even catch different types of game at the same time. It will work all
year, and in all weather conditions. In fact, bad weather prompts game to shelter
in these traps, so they will often produce game when other trap designs will
not.
Any other type of trap must be checked quite often, to see if it has been sprung,
and animals must be processed right away, when killed in a snare (or other
killing-type trap), or taken care of, once caught in a live-catch type trap.
With den traps, game animals actually take care of themselves until you wish
to harvest them for food. You can ignore a den trap for weeks or even months
and no game will die in the trap.
Some animals dig their own dens, but most will happily adopt any type of shelter
they can find. There is always a housing shortage in the wild, and very few
places are as suitable as your den trap will be, so animals will benefit in
several ways when you build these traps. A game hideout at the entrance to
the den trap provides a perfect hiding place with overhead cover, and game
can enter and exit the hideout from two different directions. The trap provides
shelter from both predators and the elements, allowing more young game to survive,
so you will actually be boosting game population in every area that you build
den traps.
From my long-term survival perspective, den traps are great for several more
reasons. Since they are hidden from view, no one will know that trapping is
going on, making them perfect for use in areas such as public lands. [Consult
yourlocal game regulations.] The underground version of the trap is hard to
spot, making it unlikely that your
game will
be stolen, or your trap destroyed. This trap can be made in many different
variations, using scrounged items or trash, or built completely out of natural
materials. It can even be scaled up to catch larger game, such as coyotes.
No other trap offers the advantages that this one does. A few installed around
your location will be available to collect game from, for many years in the
future. They can also be made now, and placed in an area that you may want
to stay at later, and will be ready to provide you with food when you arrive.
Den Traps could be installed at every location that you like to visit or camp,
helping the game to flourish in each area you have chosen. This allows you
to move from location to location, while having a supply of fresh food waiting
for you at each stop.
Now you are probably wondering if Den Traps have any disadvantages, and of
course they do, as any design has some “engineering trade-offs”.
These are permanent traps, so they are not portable (but you can build them
wherever they are needed). They take a certain amount of time and effort to
construct, which varies with the exact style of trap you choose to make. Once
finished, it also takes some time for local game to find these traps, get used
to them, and start using them, so you don’t set them up quickly, like
wire snares, or cable-lock deer snares, and expect to have game trapped the
next morning. But aside from these few drawbacks, there is no better permanent
trap, for long-term survival.
In fact, the longer this type of trap is in place, the better it works, as
more game in the area locate your dens and move in. And although it isn’t
required, you can shorten the time it takes game to find and use your dens,
by putting some bait (such as a sardine, minnows, dry dog food, or a dab of
peanut butter) in the game hideout at the entrance to each den every day for
a few days, to help animals locate and get used to their new housing.
Construction: There are many different ways to make these traps, but all share
some similarities. A den trap consists of four basic parts; a den box with
a removable lid, an entrance tunnel, a game hideout at the entrance, and a
blocking pole [or panel] (which is used to prevent game from escaping, when
you go to collect them from the den). You can use many different materials
for
each
of
these parts, and you may think up your own unique variations.
There are three basic styles of Den Traps; above-ground traps, sunken traps,
and underground traps. The above-ground style is the easiest to build, but
it is also the easiest for other people to find. The underground style is just
the opposite, harder to build, but also harder to locate. The sunken style
is half-buried, so it splits the difference between the other two styles. First,
we will describe how to make an above-ground Den Trap.
Above-Ground Den Trap:
The Den: You can make all of your den boxes from scratch, using lumber or plywood,
but I seldom use this method, because I prefer to improvise. I like to make
my dens out of locally available materials, so if I am in a wooded area with
lots of sticks and tree limbs, I will build a den box out of sticks, like a
miniature log cabin.
If I am in a rocky area, I make a den box by stacking up stones to make the
walls, like a little stone house.
If I am out in a grassy area, where materials are scarce, I make the den box
using squares of grassy sod dug up with a shovel, or mud bricks (made by mixing
mud and grass), like a small adobe building.
I prefer to make the top of adobe dens from sticks or scrap lumber, or pieces
of plywood or corrugated roofing, if any of these are available. You can make
a sod roof, using a shape like an igloo, or skep
beehive, but it may collapse
in wet weather. Stick roofs can be improved by covering them with some plastic,
for waterproofing, if you have any. A den that stays warm and dry is a den
that catches more game.
If I am near a junkyard, or other source of man-made materials, I use whatever
looks suitable. The den box can be made from any suitably sized wooden or metal
box, a five gallon bucket with lid, a plastic storage tub, an old trash can,
a large flower pot, or even a large section of hollow log, or hollow stump.
Your den only needs to be big enough for several game animals to fit inside,
so den boxes can be as small as 12 inches square, but 18 inches is better,
and 24 inches on each side is very roomy, by den standards. Dens can be made
round, square, or rectangular, as desired. Twelve inches is a good standard
height for any den box, as few small game animals stand over one foot high.
If you want to trap coyotes, you will have to make larger dens. (Thee feet
by three feet).
The top of your den box should be open, or have an opening built or cut into
it, which is large enough for you to reach into, so that you can remove game
from the trap. The top (or the opening) is covered with one or two lids, an
(optional) screen lid, which allows you to see into the den without letting
game escape, and a solid lid, which closes the den, and keeps out sunlight.
The solid lid will be covered with a layer of leaves or forest debris, to hide
the trap, and to help keep the den dark (because game will not stay in a den,
if sunlight shines into it). The game hideout also helps to keep direct sunlight
out of the entrance tunnel, and den box. The den box also needs an opening
on one side, to connect to the entrance tunnel.
The solid lid can be made from a variety of materials, just like the other
trap parts. Again, I tend to use whatever is handy, where I happen to be. A
lid can be made by lashing sticks together, or it can be a large, thin, flat
rock. Scrap plywood makes a good lid, or several pieces of crap lumber can
be nailed [or screwed] together to make one. A piece of corrugated roofing
works okay, and old
metal
or plastic
trash can lids make good den box lids. (Wow, lids make good lids!)
The solid lid should be larger than the opening it covers, to help seal out
rain and sunlight. I like to put two handles on my lid, to make it easy to
lift up when checking the trap, as the lid will be covered with leaves. The
handles can be made from rope, cordage, nylon strapping, or wire, or you can
use old screen door handles.
The Entrance Tunnel:
Entrance tunnels are the way the game gets into the den
box. You just need a tunnel about four feet long, and big enough for your game
to fit inside; six inches across is good for small game, twelve will do for
the largest possums and raccoons, and eighteen inches will work for coyotes.
Again, I like to use locally available materials.
In wooded areas, lay two four-foot long small logs down, the right distance
apart. Put a third log on top of these two, so that it bridges the gap, and
you have
a tunnel. The logs can be flattened on the inside, if you want, to make a smoother
tunnel.
In rocky areas I make two lines of stones, the right distance apart, and place
flat stones across the gap, to create the tunnel.
In grassy plains areas, I use lines of sod or adobe bricks, but I use a plank
for the top of the tunnel, so that it won’t cave in when it rains.
When man-made materials are available, you have a number of options. Tunnels
can be made from planks or plywood nailed together, to form hollow square columns
(or hollow triangular columns). You can also use old plastic or metal pipe, metal
or concrete culverts, old bricks or cinder blocks, or even old drain tiles, roofing
gutters, or downspouts. You could also use several large cans or buckets wired
together, with the ends cut out.
The entrance tunnel fits up against the opening in the side of the den box, so
that animals can crawl through the tunnel, and enter the den.
My favorite entrance tunnels are made from hollow logs that I cut into four-foot
long sections, or hollow logs that are open on one side (you just put the open
side down, and this is also how you use rain gutters). I am always looking around
for more hollow logs, which I cut up into sections, and save for using with my
next batch of den traps.
These logs often have rotted wood inside, which needs to be cleaned out, using
an axe and adze for open logs, or a spud (a large debarking chisel on a pole)
for enclosed hollow logs. You can often knock the rotted wood out with just a
length of metal pipe and a hammer. If you don’t have any tools, you can
always burn them out using campfire coals, if you are careful (keep water on
hand to douse the flames, as needed).
The Game Hideout: When you have made your den and entrance tunnel, find a rock
(or short section of log), and put it a foot or so in front of the entrance tunnel.
Now find a flat rock, or slab of wood, and place it so that it bridges over from
the entrance tunnel to the first rock. This creates a little game hideout where
animals can stay hidden, and be protected from overhead attacks by birds of prey.
They can also come and go from either side, so animals will feel like they have
an escape route, as well as being able to retreat down the entrance tunnel.
Game animals will consider this to be a perfect arrangement, and will be drawn
to live here as soon as they find the den. Now cover the flat rock with leaves
or forest duff, to help it blend in. The hideout can be further disguised by
grass, brush, or other rocks, as desired.
The Blocking Pole: A blocking pole is just a stick, limb, pole, or pipe which
is longer than the entrance tunnel, and has a block of wood fastened on one end,
the right size and shape to block the tunnel. To use, you insert the pole (block
end first) into the tunnel, until the block is up against the opening of the
den box. This requires you to temporarily remove the game hideout cover first,
and usually the rock in front of the entrance as well.
The blocking pole will seal the den, so that game can’t escape, and if
any game happened to be inside the entrance tunnel, it will drive them back into
the den. To keep the block from going past the tunnel and into the den, make
the entrance hole on the side of the den box a little smaller than the entrance
tunnel, or you can put a couple of nails at the end of the tunnel as a stop,
if it is made from wood.
Once you have constructed your above-ground den trap, and made sure that the
blocking pole will fit into the entrance tunnel properly, then the trap should
be covered with a thick layer of leaves and forest debris, to insulate it, disguise
it, and to seal out sunlight from any gaps.
You can also make the walls of the den box and tunnel thicker, if made from sod
or stones, or chink stones with a mixture of mud and grass, if you want, or cover
the exterior with a piece of old plastic or canvas before adding leaves, or you
can cover the trap with a layer of dirt (an earth berm), before adding forest
debris, to help block out light. Any of these techniques work ok, so pick one.
Extra insulation is especially important in northern locations with severe winters.
Where To Locate Den Traps: The best locations for den traps are alongside existing
game trails, and close to year-round streams or water holes, where game goes
to drink and find food. So install your den traps where the game already travels,
preferably in a well-drained and gently sloping location, and above any possible
flooding, as you don’t want your dens to fill up with water. In swampy
areas you will have to use the highest ground available, even if it is not ideal,
so look for any small hills or ridges that may be in the area.
Almost any animal that can fit into the entrance tunnel will use your den, both
meat animals and furbearing game. Yet another advantage to den traps is that
most animals are nocturnal, so you can check your traps during the day when it
is convenient, and the game will be sleeping away inside. No more having to get
up at the crack of dawn, to check your trap lines before your catch is spoiled,
eaten by predators, or stolen by trap line thieves.
Harvesting game: So you made some den traps, and then waited a few weeks for
animals to take up residence. When you are ready to collect your game, you remove
the flat rock (or wood slab) that makes up the top of the game hideout (and the
rock in front of the entrance tunnel, if necessary). Insert the blocking pole
into the tunnel, until the block is up against the den entrance. Now dig around
in the leaves and forest debris above the den box, until you find the rope or
wire handles that you made.
Lift up gently, to remove the solid lid (with the mat of debris still intact
on top of it), and then you can inspect your catch. The mat of forest debris
tends to compact into a solid mass of compost over time, making it easy to remove
and replace the lid, without having to clear away the leafy cover first. You
can also tie the debris to the lid with string or fishing line, in a simple net
pattern, and then add a bit more debris, to conceal the cordage. (The Viet Cong
sometimes glued leaves to the trap doors of their tunnel hideouts, so they wouldn’t
fall off.)
Screen Lids: The screen lid is optional, as game often will not even try to escape,
but will cower in the den long enough for you to make a decision, but you want
to inspect the den carefully before actually reaching inside, because you may
find rattlesnakes or skunks in your trap. I like to use screen lids, as I find
that they keep me from feeling rushed. Also, any technique that helps you avoid
losing food will be worth using in a famine, or any true long-term survival scenario.
If you opt for a screen lid, there are many different ways to make one (Hey,
I see a pattern here!) A screen lid can be a simple wooden frame, covered by
chicken wire, window screen, hardware cloth, or expanded metal.
I usually make my screens from sticks or bamboo lashed together into an open
lattice, because I like to make things out of sticks, and sticks are easy to
collect for free. The screen allows you to see what you caught, without letting
any game jump out, so you can decide if you want to collect or shoot your catch
at your leisure.
Since den traps are live-catch traps, captured game can be removed unharmed,
if desired, so you can use them as livestock, or as trade goods, or you can fatten
them up in cages before eating them (possums and raccoons are much better eating
after they have been fattened up on kitchen scraps first). Predators and nuisance
animals (such as skunks) should usually be killed, to reduce their numbers in
the
local
area.
Sunken Den Traps, and Underground Den Traps:
The sunken versions of den traps are similar to the above-ground traps, except
the den box is installed in a hole in the ground. Sunken dens can be from half-buried,
to deep enough that the top is flush with the ground level. This reduces the
visibility profile of the trap. Underground den traps are set deep enough that
the top of the den box is below ground level (10 to 12 inches lower), allowing
them to be completely concealed from view.
Since these styles of trap are set in the ground to one degree or another, the
entrance tunnels must be placed in slanted ditches, so that they run from the
game hideout on the surface, to the opening in the side of the den box, which
will be below ground level. The entrance tunnel can be as simple as a narrow
ditch, covered by a log, plank, flat rocks, or old corrugated tin, if the soil
is stable enough to prevent cave-ins. More durable entrance tunnels, which are
required in soft or sandy soils, can be made from the hollow logs I like, or
any of the other methods already mentioned for above-ground traps.
In fact, if the ground is hard enough (such as hardpan, clay, or rock-filled
soil), the den “box” can be a simple hole, but the entrance hole
(at the den box end of the entrance tunnel) should be made smaller than the tunnel,
using rocks or wooden stakes, to provide a stop for the blocking pole. One other
advantage to the sunken and underground designs is that, since the entrance tunnel
slopes downwards, the end of the blocking pole will be elevated, and so it usually
fits over the rock in front of the entrance tunnel, meaning that you only have
to remove the overhead cover stone from the game hideout, to insert the blocking
pole into the entrance tunnel.
I prefer to make the underground style of den trap, whenever circumstances permit,
but it is easier to make above-ground den traps, if you don’t have any
tools. This is one of the reasons that my caches, vehicle kits, bugout kits,
and survival kits contain Army surplus entrenching shovels, small pickaxes, and
saws and hatchets. You can improvise digging sticks, but having good tools available
makes the construction process much easier.
Once you make one of these traps, you will see for yourself just how well they
work. If you build a test trap close to your home on your property, you could
also install a small security camera with infrared night vision capability, inside
the den box, and wire it to a remote monitor. This would let you see when animals
are in the trap, if you have the equipment available, and you feel like going
to the effort.
Please note that, like everything else fun and useful, making and using these
traps could be illegal, or could become illegal, as new laws are passed. Use
discretion, research you local and state laws, and use this information for survival
situations
only. I hope that you find this useful, and remember: “God Decides The
Outcome
Of
Every
Battle”.
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Letter Re: New High Performance .410 Shotgun Slugs for Self Defense?
Dear SurvivalBlog Editor,
Anyone considering the 410/.22 long rifle combo or any other 410 bore shotgun
for survival use should take a look at the new state of the 410 slug. It
is far more powerful than before and has potential as a defensive weapon
against dangerous animals, human attack or as a big game getter. Those interested
in details may find it at Hoening
Big Bore South.
You may want to check this out occasionally as work continues on new loads
for smooth bores and barrel offerings. - James Hoening
JWR Replies: In my estimation the standard factory .410
slug has been a poor choice for self defense. It is just barely
capable of taking deer reliably at short range, and is certainly not to
be trusted to reliably stop a two-legged varmint that is shooting
back at you. The standard 1/5th ounce (87.5 grain) .410 slug used
by Winchester and Remington has a muzzle velocity of 1,815 fps, and generates
just 640 ft. lbs. of muzzle energy. For comparison,.commercial .44 Magnum handgun
ammunition uses a 240 grain bullet at 1,350 fps and generates 971 ft. lbs.
of muzzle energy (from a 6" revolver barrel!) Centerfire deer rifles such
as .308 Winchester are in another class altogether . The Federal Fusion 150
grain .308 soft nose spitzer load, for example, has a muzzle velocity of 2,820
fps and produces a muzzle energy of 2,650 ft. lbs. Mr.
Hoening's semi-custom .410 heavy slug load is impressive. It uses an un-crimped
375 grain slug at 1,500 fps that generates 1,873 ft. lbs. of muzzle energy.
Not bad for a little .410! I will definitely buy some to experiment with and
to keep on hand in the event that our .410 shotgun ever gets pressed into service
above and beyond its usual pest shooting tasks.
If readers want to use a shotgun for self defense, I still generally recommend
that they use a 12 gauge, or a 20 gauge for smaller-statured shooters. The
Brenneke 12 gauge (3" shell) 1 ounce (437 grain) sabot slug has a muzzle
velocity of 1,673 fps, and a muzzle energy of 2,686 ft. lbs. That is more than
four times the energy of the standard .410 slug. The Hoening .410 slug heavy
load (with a whompin' 1,873 ft. lbs muzzle energy) is captivating, but unfortunately
because of its non-standard overall length it cannot be cycled through pump
or semi-auto shotguns. Unless someone were to practice extensively for rapid
reloading with a .410 short-barrel double-barreled ejector shotgun (coach
gun style), then this limits the Hoening heavy slugs to use as a hunting
load, rather than a self-defense load. The less powerful standard length Hoening
roll-crimped .410 slug load can be cycled through
a repeating shotgun, and has a velocity of 1,200 fps and a muzzle energy of
1,199 ft. lbs. This might suffice as a deer hunting load, but in my opinion
it stills falls short of what is needed for self defense.
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Letter Re: Rampant Inflation in Steel Products
Hey Jim,
I used to make my living as a construction electrician and had several big
steel Greenlee
brand tool boxes with my tools. There is usually one in the back of my
truck all the time.
Price of gun safes has continued to rise, so I took one of my boxes and cut
out a plywood rack for my guns, then filled in around the rack with polyurethane
foam. After it was set and cured, I painted the urethane foam flat black.
The fit and finish on my Greenlee tool box/gun safe is good enough to protect
my weapons, keep them locked and secure. It also has the advantage of handles
and skids so it can be loaded into a pickup or bug out trailer to get to the
remote retreat in a hurry. If necessary, I can load it with a forklift, or
a chain hoist, or muscle it on with three other men.
Anyway, I thought you might be interested in my improvised gun safe.
The steel tool boxes can still be bought from Lowe's [hardware store] for $199.
Regards, - Lawrence, editor of SurvivingTheDayAfter@yahoogroups.com
JWR Replies: Thanks for that cost-saving suggestion. Just
keep in mind that "portability" works both ways. It is essential that you secure
your vault, box, or chest to a floor or a very sturdy wall, to prevent
burglars from hauling off "The Whole Shebang." Be sure to use heavy duty lag bolts!
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Letter Re: .22 Rimfire Conversion Kits for SIG-Sauer Centerfire Pistols
Dear Jim:
Recently, I purchased a .22
conversion kit for my SIG P226 .40 S&W pistol.
I was not aware that SIG was
making such a unit until I saw it in the gun shop. Although pricey, ($369
factory price, $315 store price, [and I] managed to get
one for $295) I went ahead and bought it.
I can happily report that this conversion worked flawlessly out of the box. While
I did not have the opportunity to really test it for accuracy, I was able to
bounce a pop can around at fifty yards. The three kinds of ammo used were CCI
Stinger, Remington Golden hollow point, and Remington Thunderbolt with the angular
bullet. In firing approximately 90 rounds (all there was time for), there were
no malfunctions.
The conversions are made for the P220, P226, P229R, and P228/229. I tried to
put the unit on my [SIG Model] and [Model] 229, but it wouldn't fit, (darn!).
My
employer
is
looking at purchasing the 229 kits training. We were using a K22 for shooters
that were
having problems. With the price of ammo, it makes no sense to keep throwing expensive
ammo into the backstop, when you can drop back to a .22, work through a problem,
and move back to the larger caliber.
With this unit, you keep the trigger pull of the original pistol, unlike the
SIG Mosquito [,22 LR], which has a horrible DA trigger. I was told at an armorer's
class
in November of 2007 that the trigger was mandated by California law. Further,
I
was told that SIG had no plans to bring out a conversion. I guess they changed
their
minds.
JWR Replies: With the current high cost of centerfire ammunition,
I highly recommend getting one .22 rimfire conversion kits for each model of
your rifle
and pistol in your primary firearms battery. Because these conversion kits
are not classified as "firearms" in most jurisdictions, they can
usually be bought without any paper trail. There are a few countries that are
exceptions,
such as South Africa, where barrels are a restricted (registerable) part
of a firearm.
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Letter Re: Ammo Types and Storage Ratios for a Precision .308 Rifle
James
I have a friend wanting my advice. He has a Glock [Model] 22 [.40 S&W]
, an AR-15 [5.56mm NATO], a Ruger 10/.22 [rimfire] and a Remington 700 VTR
[bolt action .308]. He has 5,000 rounds for the Glock, 10,000 rounds for the
AR and 6,000 rounds for
the
10/.22.
He has no .308 semi-auto rifle and [says that he has] no plans
to acquire one. He wants to lay in a supply of around 2,000 rounds for the
Remington 700 VTR. It shoots under 1/2 MOA with
168 grain Federal Gold Medal Match, and around 1 to 1-1/2 MOA with assorted
hunting rounds we've tried.
I told him he should have some 168 grain Federal Gold Medal Match for precision
work, some hunting ammo and some ball ammo.
In your opinion, what is a good percentage of each to have on hand? Thanks,
- Craig W.
JWR Replies: For a precision rifle, I'd recommend this laying
in an ammo supply at this ratio:
60% 168 grain Federal Match
20% 165 grain hunting load, such as Winchester silvertip. (Pick a brand/bullet
weight with a trajectory that is close to the Federal Match, so they'll be
no need to re-zero.)
15% Ball
4% Tracer
1% AP and/or API,
if you can find any. A large gun show in an unrestricted state such as Nevada
or Kentucky would be your most likely source. Bring a wad of cash, since you
can expect to pay $4 to $6 per round!
Note: Keep in mind that the tracer and incendiary bullets
will leave a residue that is hygroscopic (and hence corrosive)--so set that
ammo aside for just WTSHTF
and clean your rifle thoroughlyfor three successive days after
shooting any! Just like when shooting corrosively
primed ammunition, a rifle's bore and the face of the bolt are at risk
of getting pitted if you don't clean it scrupulously and repeatedly.
I recommend that you zero the rifle with the Federal match ammo, and then
do bullet drop comparisons with each of the other loads. Work up a bullet drop
and wind drift card for each load, all the way out to 1,200 meters. Laminate
those cards to make them weather resistant, and keep them with the rifle at
all times. (A stock pouch is handy for this purpose.)
Consult your state and local laws before purchasing any tracer, AP, or API
ammunition.
OBTW, a good place to watch for ammo on sale is GunDeals.com.
« Letter Re: Advice on a Mini Photovoltaic Battery Charging System |Main| Note from JWR: »
Ten Tips to Save Money on Ammunition, by Mr. Yankee
As prices increase, many shooters are looking for ways to take the bite out
of their shooting budget. Here are ten tips to help:
Take the bite out of your shooting budget:
If you are like most, you did not buy nearly enough ammo over the past few
years. Most of us told ourselves that our budgets just couldn’t be stretched
any farther. So our ammunition reserves either dwindled or stayed static despite
knowing that prices were rising. Boy are we sorry now! Anyone who was not paying
attention had a severe dose of sticker shock when hunting season arrived, and
it is just getting worse. This is not an “I told you so” piece
despite my advice to stock up on ammo in articles from late 2006 and early
2007. This is a warning about what is coming next and what you can do about
it. It is too late to buy cheap ammo. You will never see brass cased, Boxer-primed
308 of good quality for under $200 per thousand again. You will never again
see even steel cased 7.62x39 to feed your $99 SKS for $99 per thousand.
You will never again see 9mm Luger (Parabellum) for $12 per 100. Not only
has the price of factory loaded ammunition soared, the price of reloading components
have
begun to climb as well. What can you do? Here are 10 steps you can take to
offset some of the financial bite in your shooting budget.
#1) Shop wisely - use the Internet and toll free phone numbers to research
current prices and comparison shop. Information is power; use it to your advantage.
Some sites raise prices more slowly than others. Some include shipping in their
prices. Be sure that you are matching apples to apples when comparing prices
and factor every penny including shipping and sales taxes when you are making
mail order purchases.
#2) Watch for retail bargains at local stores. If your local gun shop or back
country general store has an odd box of cartridges or shotgun shells with a
five year old price sticker on it. Buy it. The price of ammo has literally
doubled in the last five years. Even those last few dusty corners will be cleaned
out soon. If you can take advantage of a ‘first in last out’ inventory
system, do it before someone else does. Every once in awhile the larger stores
like Dick’s and Wal-Mart will run ammunition sales with discounts on
case quantities that still seem reasonable. If you see a good sale, stock up!
[JWR Adds: Also look for ammo that might still be available
pre-inflated prices at on table of private sellers at gun shows. When you do
find a bargain, be sure to ask "Do you have any more of this elsewhere?" Look
for ammo at garage sales, and estate sales. It might even be worthwhile to
place a "want to buy" ad if there are free or low-cost classified
ads in your area.]
#3) Roll your own. Reloading has long been a means of saving a few dollars
as well as improving the quality of loads tweaked for your rifle. Despite the
recent increase in the cost of reloading components, you will still pay less
for ammo you load yourself than for off the shelf factory loaded ammunition.
The price of reloading components and equipment have begun to climb as the
cost for materials and interest in reloading have increased. The prices will
climb higher. So now is the time to buy. If you shoot on a regular basis, your
savings from reloaded ammo quickly offset the investment in reloading equipment.
This is especially true if you pick up a used press. Classified ads and estate
sales are the places for buying reloading equipment. A good quality press like
the RCBS Rockchucker can frequently be found for less than 50% of the retail
price for a new press and will have several decades of hard use left in it.
I recommend that you start watching for used reloading gear.
#4) Buy used. Not only can firearms and reloading tools be found at bargain
prices, many an old hunter was an avid reloader who left behind a bench full
of components when he met the Lord. I’ll happily pay for partial boxes
of projectiles, primers, or powder (in the original containers) and make use
of those components building my own loads. If you happen to run across full
or even partial boxes of factory loaded ammunition at gun shows, garage sales,
or auctions you may be able to get it at a fraction of the retail cost as well.
But use caution. Never, ever shoot reloaded ammunition of
unknown quality. You are literally gambling your life if you shoot someone
else’s reloads.
There are very few people who I trust my life to. I am just not willing to
pull a trigger on a cartridge that might be unsafely loaded.
#5) Stock up! It is too late to get the bargains that were available a few
years ago. But it is not too late to stock up before further price increases,
taxes, tariffs, and out right import bans. Despite the current market price:
buy primers, projectiles, and powder while it is still legal and anonymous
to do so. A day is coming when you will need a permit to buy powder. I think
it will be within our lifetime. Buy 22 rim-fire cartridges. You can’t
reload them, so stock up on them for you and for the next generation. It is
prudent to stock up on anything that you use regularly, even without waiting
for a sale discount. With inflation at over 10%, “investing” in
assets like food and ammo has a better return than the stock market. Plan ahead.
Don’t buy just for this weekend or this season. That is the thinking
that got you wishing that you had more ammo on hand. Prices are going to continue
to climb. Buying in bulk now will generate savings over the long term.
#6) Make your shots count. "Spray and pray" is neither tactically nor economically
sound. Make your plinking sessions count. Aim every shot carefully. When testing
new reloading recipes, test small batches for signs of pressure and accuracy.
Try
three or five round test batches instead of ten or twenty round batches. The
same is true for sighting in a new scope or a new rifle. Check the target every
second shot instead of after each full magazine.
#7) Retool. If your chief reason to plink is for backyard entertainment, consider
swapping out of centerfire ammunition to 22 rimfire or even a low cost pellet
rifle. Another option is the kits that convert your rifle or pistol to fire
22 cartridges. Shooting a more economical cartridge may pay for the cost of
a [.22 LR] conversion kit or a new 22 rifle in as little as a single weekend’s
shooting. By way of example, if you shoot 500 cartridges of 22 long rifle (at
three cents each) over the course of a weekend instead of 500 cartridges of
308 (at 53 cents each). You save a whopping $250! Just let that sink in for
a moment.
Plinking with a 22 instead of a 308 saves two hundred fifty dollars every 500
trigger pulls. Wow! That adds up fast and the savings won’t stop with
the first $250. It will continue for every similar shooting session you have
in the future.
#8) Make use of your skills. Let your investment in shooting sports generate
savings in other budgets. Put meat on the table. Moose, elk, mule deer, white
tail, pronghorn, turkey, geese, hares, rabbits, pheasant, duck, partridge,
squirrel – all are tasty and every bite on your plate saves money out
of your grocery budget – especially if you learn to dress and butcher
the game yourself. Besides the financial savings, you’ll have a sense
of pride like little else when you know that the freezer is full and you have
all the jerky you can eat because your hunts have been successful.
#9) Waste not. With scrap metal selling at or near the all time high, don’t
waste the byproducts of your range time. Even if you do not reload your cartridge
cases or shell hulls, someone else might be willing to pay for the chance to
reload them or as salvage. Keep this in mind when you shoot Berdan primed brass.
I have been unable to locate a current US retailer of Berdan primers, but that
may change in the future. Even steel and aluminum cartridge cases have value
as scrap and of course the lead itself can be reclaimed to smelt and mold into
new musket balls, bullets, and shot, as well as being sold as scrap metal.
It may seem like more work than it is worth, but remember that the prices are
climbing and the sand bank behind your favorite target may already hold several
hundred pounds of lead.
#10) Fight back. Be vigilant. Be proactive. Vote against new tariffs, taxes,
and bans. Vote against candidates who restrict your freedoms, raise license
fees, and create access permits or talk about doing so in the future. Encourage
and educate not only your friends, co-workers, and neighbors, but also the
next generation so that they will do the same. We may not be able to stop the
global forces aligned against our shooting sports but if we work together,
we might just slow them down long enough to preserve the sport and keep it
affordable for one more generation. - Mr. Yankee
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes from JWR »
After 10 Years--Some Observations and Lessons Learned by a Y2K-Era Prepper
It was June, 1998. Y2K was
a salient topic of conversation. It got my attention. When the electricity
went off and there would be no water to drink, and no
fuel to move food to the JIT grocery
stores, I could see things getting very ugly. I had been willing to fight
for this nation as a member of the US Army.
Now it was time to fight for my household. I bought a Springfield Armory
M1A. I bought a safe to store it in. I bought another M1A (for
the spousal unit of course!) I bought ammo. Lots of it. I bought gear. I
bought food.
I became awakened to the idea of being self-reliant.
That was 10 years ago. Y2K didn’t cause a global melt down. (Although
I have a friend in the service that sat in a command bunker holding his breath
at Y2K – the
government didn’t know what was going to occur.) I
have not had to live through or endure Hurricane
Katrina. No participation
in the 9/11 attacks.
In fact, I can’t claim a campaign ribbon for any
disasters. Am I upset or sorry that I have changed my life to follow a path
of self-reliance? Most definitely, absolutely not!
Let me share with you the good and the bad of what I have done in the last
ten years. So often, people new to self-reliance are like ants at the foot
of a mountain staring up with their head touching their back wondering how
in the world they will ever be able to replace modern society and be able to
take care of themselves WTSHTF.
Well, truth be told, you can’t do it
overnight unless you’re Warren Buffet. I am walking, talking living proof,
however, that you can make significant progress. Let me show you!
In order to show you that you do indeed have cause for hope, let me share
a
few of my screw-ups. How about the initial purchases I made
while in a state of “marked concern” when I became “self
aware” with
regard to self – reliance. The money I invested in self-reliance was
my spousal unit’s “down payment on a house”. Do you think
this view of “my nest” versus “the world may end” led
to some intense “discussions”? You bet your last dog flea it did.
For much of the intervening 10 years I have been the one prepping while my
wife harbored a severe grudge against the entire topic because I spent our
money for the house down payment on crazy self-reliance materials. A grade
of “F” to
me for consensus building. She is just beginning to come around in the last
two years. Poster child example of a bucket of wet sand. (If two guys fight,
they belt each other like two crazed wolverines. Eventually they realize they
were stupid for fighting, shake hands, forgive and are back to being friends.
Kinda like a cow urinating on a big flat rock – big splash and splatters,
but it dries up pretty quickly. Get in an argument with a gal and it is like
pouring water into
a bucket of sand – the surface may dry after a bit, but it stays wet
down in that bucket for a long time.)
I very religiously squirreled away Gillette Atra razors because that is what
I used each day. The handle that you click onto the blade cartridge gave up
the ghost after many years of faithful service. The stores don’t sell
them anymore! Now I have three dozen packs of five cartridges with no way to
use them to shave! Fortunately, I did find a second/spare handle in my stores
and
will
be able to use them up. Did I re-learn some valuable lessons? You bet!
Two is one, and one is none.
You need to see what you have (inventories!)
Store what you Eat/use – I did great on the cartridges, but forgot
spare handles!
In the run-up to Y2K I bought a dozen 6 volt golf cart batteries to be able to
set-up some kind of power system in the house. Great intent. No photovoltaic
panels No wiring until last year. They have been “stored” sitting
on pallets in a friends storage building for 9 years because I have not been
able to get
to the replacement power system yet. I could have used that money for a higher
priority item.
The spousal unit and I built our home last year. We did many things very right.
Some learning experiences occurred, however. Maybe chief amongst them is my
underestimation of the massiveness of the size of this endeavor! I joke with
friends about not being free from the To Do list to be able to get into trouble
for at least five years! Fix the septic pond berms. Sort out the “scrap” lumber.
Put a deck on the back of the house so the [building] code Nazis will give
us the permanent occupancy permit. Fix the leaking pressure tank in the basement.
Fix the DR
mower. Mow. Clear 30 trees dropped to get the septic pond clearance (not done
with that one yet). Cut and split and stack firewood. The list goes on. Don’t
get me wrong – I would not trade my homestead back for city living for
anything. Was I able to foresee the "second & third order effects” of
the change to a country homestead? Nope. Not even having read Backwoods Home
magazine for 8 years. Thank God I listened to my in-laws and did not try
to finish the upstairs interior construction while living downstairs!
Prior to Y2K I tried very hard to create a group. It failed in many ways. Had
Y2K caused the feared problems, we would have been road kill. Okay, we would
have been the third or fourth critter on the highway run over by life, but
we were
nowhere near ready to deal with WTSHTF/TEOTWAWKI.
The Yuppie Queen and her husband went right back to spoiling their princess/daughter,
buying Jaguars, clothes,
and hair implants. You know - living the typical American city life. The other
couple moved out onto 20 acres in a very rural county and raise goats and chickens.
I am on 20+ acres and moving in a self-reliant direction. Two out of three
ain’t
bad!
I endured the gauntlet of multiple careers trying to find a fit for who I am.
Thankfully, my spousal unit was trained well by her farmer parents. We never
carried any debt other than the mortgage. One thing we did do smart was under-buy
on our home with a condo (sixplex) in town. No car payments. No credit card
payments. We kept 3-6 months of expenses in savings. One business venture was
as a franchisee for Idiotstate. Massive mistake. Four years with no income
for me and a net loss of $60,000 overall. What preps could you get done with
an
extra $60,000? I am certainly not happy I put one in the “L” column.
I am not proud of failing. I am proud of jumping into the fight and giving
it my 110%. As they used to tell me in the military, “What an opportunity
for character building!” Learning lesson for me was that I should never
have stopped Soldiering. I simply have green blood. I have returned to the
Army by working as a tactical/leadership contractor at a nearby Fort and getting
reappointed into the National Guard. Will a deployment take me away from directly
protecting The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU)? Yes. Does staying employed doing
what God designed me to do mean we’ll have a steady income? Likely. Does
a pension check from age 65 on make us better able to care for ourselves? You
betcha. The world may not disintegrate in 30 days. It may actually remain fairly
normal. One has to prepare for that contingency as well.
By now you have to be thinking “What a knothead! This guy couldn’t
find his fourth point of contact if you put one hand on a cheek!” Well,
not so fast there Skippy! I have a thing or two that should go in the “W” column.
I should give you a massive dose of hope! Let me describe to you in a quick
overview where I have come to in my 10 year quest to become more self-reliant.
First, about our home…
Home
Your home is your castle, right? Well mine actually kinda is. It sets on a
chunk of land that is 20+ acres. The terrain is rolling and 95% wooded. It
butts up against a cemetery to the north, a 900+ acre conservation area to
the south, a river to the west, and a section line to the east. The home is
an Insulated Concrete Form (ICF)
structure. The walls are 1” of concrete
fake rock veneer, 2.5” of foam, 8” of reinforced concrete, 2.5” of
foam, 5/8” of sheetrock. It is “round”, being made up of
12 wall sections each 8 feet in width. Two stories with a basement. About
1,800 square feet of living space. (2,700 with the basement, however, that
area is not finished yet.) Geothermal heating/cooling and a soapstone wood
stove.
Metal roof. No carpeting – oak floors and tile. The wellhead
is inside the home so I don’t have to worry about winter breakdowns or freeze-ups,
nor losing access WTSHTF. We are running at top speed towards the 20% equity
checkpoint in order to get rid of the bankster-invented Private Mortgage Insurance
(PMI) extortion racket. (We have a credit rating of 804, so the “risk” the
bank incurs by carrying our note is a freaking joke!). It suits our lifestyle
very,
very
well. Our intent was to have a very low maintenance home. Having lived here
one year in two more weeks, it looks like we have a very big check mark in
the “W” column. More details on the design/floor plan in a future
article!
Weapons & Training
We have an M1A set-up for combat, and one set up for long-range precision work.
The Glock 21
[.45 ACP] is the base pistol for the household, with one for each of us and
a G30 [compact Glock .45 ACP] as back-up. The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU) doesn’t
carry a rifle or carbine, just the pistol. (More on that later.) Training for
both of us
includes Defensive
Handgun 1 and Team Tactics with Clint and Heidi Smith at Thunder Ranch. I have
also had General Purpose, Urban, and Precision Rifle with Clint. I completed
a special symposium at Gunsite (pistol, rifle, shotgun, carbine). I am an NRA Certified
pistol, rifle, and home defense instructor. I have several other weapon platforms
as a “Dan Fong” kind of guy. The two rifles with
accoutrements, and the four pistols with same were certainly not cheap. Nor
was the training. I do, however, know how to properly employ them now.
Food & Supplies
The spousal unit & I could stretch the on-hand food to cover two years.
Canned freeze dried is 45% of it, bulk buckets is 45%, and “normal use” food
is the last 10%. We have built a rolling rack set of shelves for the 3rd part
to ease rotation of the canned goods with each grocery store trip. No, I haven’t
found the secret spy decoder ring sequence on how to rotate the bulk and freeze-dried
stuff with our normal, both of us work, lifestyle. The sticking point for this
area I see is that WTSHTF, Mom & Dad in-law, Sister-in-law, Brother-in-law
with wife and two princesses (one with hubby), and my Mom & her husband
will
show up on our doorstep. That makes for an even dozen mouths to fee
Security
Now for a bit more detail. First topic up, IAW my military training, is Security.
The base of everything here is God. I have chosen to bend my knee to Jesus
Christ as my Lord and Savior. I can amass all the weapons, ammo, food and “stuff” you
can imagine, but He is the one ultimately in charge. I am charged to be a prudent
steward of His possessions - my family, property, vehicles, food, weapons,
ammo, etc.. I am definitely striving to be the ant storing things for the winter.
If you ain’t right in this area, it will really matter in eternity.
Part of your security is weapons. There are sheeple, wolves, and sheepdogs.
I am definitely in the 3rd category. In today’s world your “teeth” are
your firearms. I plan from a Boston T. Party paradigm of having a battle rifle.
Hence, the M1A. Were I starting over today, I would likely go with a FAL, but
now "I will dance with the one that brung me". Or maybe just accept the brilliance
of the M1
Garand at $620 delivered to your doorstep from the Civilian Marksmanship
Program (CMP).
I do have two of these. Hard to argue with .30-06 ball. I renovate Mausers
as my hobby and so have a .35 WAI scout rifle. A second one in the
more common 7.62x51 chambering is in work now. I laos have a Mossberg 835 [riotgun],
two Ruger 10/22s (one blued, one stainless), Ruger MKII stainless .22 LR pistol,
S&W
625 pistol in .45 ACP/.45
Auto Rim, a few Enfields, and a couple of Mosin-Nagants round out the field.
Let me detail for you the path to get to the Glocks. I think it may save you
some of your money. I received a Colt Gold Cup [M1911]
.45 ACP pistol from my Dad as a graduation gift from the Hudson Home For Boys
[aka USMA West Point].
Great
intent. A weapon as a gift – how can you ever be wrong in doing this?!
However, a terrible choice as a combat weapon. The Gold Cup is a target pistol.
Tight
tolerances.
Feeds only hardball, and that can be tenuous proposition. I carried it on the
East-West German border leading patrols. The rear sight broke twice. The front
sight shot off once and tore off twice. It was a jammomatic. I hated it. Sold
it to a guy that wanted to target shoot.
Took that money and bought a stainless Ruger P90DC. Sack of hammers tough.
always goes bang when you pull the trigger. Inexpensive as far as handguns
go. After some marked de-horning, you could even make it run in a fight without
shredding you at the same time. One marked problem. Two [different weight]
trigger pulls [for first round double action versus subsequent round single
action.]. This started to teach me to throw the muzzle down as I pulled the
trigger in
double
action.
This nasty habit caused a problem when you were firing the 2nd through X rounds,
as now it operates as a single action. TLSU had a heck of a time with it at
Thunder Ranch. Clint loaned her his G21. No more trigger problems.
Still bowing at the altar of the 1911, I bought a Kimber Compact to carry instead
of the Ruger. (I still have the Ruger – it is still “the gun that
my Dad gave me” and no one buys the P90 used for anywhere near it’s
initial cost, so I can’t sell it without taking a significant bath on
it.) The Kimber was going well. Then I got a little too aggressive at slamming
magazines home in the shortened grip and jammed it. Then the recoil rod unscrewed
itself during an IPSC run
and seized the gun while messing up the trigger. Off to Kimber. Free warranty
work and 48 hours without my self-defense pistol.
Now I have no confidence in the pistol. I Loc-Tite’d the recoil rod
and staked it so it wouldn’t come undone again. Then I sold it.
Glocks cost roughly one-half of what a Kimber does. Crummy factory sights,
but all my pistols wear tritium anyway. No ambidextrous safety required. My
short fingers are
mated to big palms, so I can handle the grip. TLSU has been trained on the
Glock Model 21 (G21). It ain’t an issue of psychological derangement
like many guys get about their 1911/Glock/H&K/Springfield, but it is a
comfortable and working relationship between Glock & I. I have a G21 and
a G30 for both of us. They always go bang accurately and they have never rusted.
I am
not
pleased
with Gaston [Glock]’s refusal to take responsibility for any mistakes
they make in manufacturing. No problems with the G21 however. A pistol is what
you
use
to fight your way back to your rifle, which you shouldn’t have laid down
in the first place.
M1As hit my safe because it is what I knew from the service. They also fire
a full power cartridge, 7.62x51. It makes cover into concealment. I don’t
have the other 10 guys in an infantry squad fighting with me so I can maneuver
under their covering fire. I have to hit the bad guy with a powerful blow once
and move on to the next wolf/bad guy. Mouse guns firing rabbit rounds don’t
scratch that itch for me. To each his own. My two are old enough to have USGI
parts and good quality control. Here are the mods I made to my “combat” M1A.
Maybe they will help you:
Krylon paint job to disrupt the "big black stick" look
M60 [padded] sling
Front sight filed down so that zero is achieved with the rear sight bottomed
out
Handguard ventilated
National Match trigger group, barrel, and sights (came as a “Loaded” package
from Springfield)
Rear aperture drilled out to make it a ghost ring
Skate board tape on slick metal butt plate
For the “Surgical” M1A (it shoots1/2 minute when I do my part):
National Match loaded package
Trigger assembly additionally tuned at factory
Unitized gas system
Factory bedded
Stainless barrel
Swan rings and QD bases
Leupold M3 3.5-10x40 scope
Handmade leather cheekrest
Other weapons - I have two M1
Garands. Both were bought from the CMP. One
is stored offsite with a "Bug-In Bag" (BIB). One is a Danish return, less
wood, that I re-stocked. TLSU has claimed this one as hers. Ammo from the CMP
is
cheaper
than any
other cartridge out there, save the communist surplus stuff. An M1917 Enfield
(also
from CMP) is in the safe, along with a 2A, a #3, and a #4. A VZ24 is stored
offsite. The first Mauser I renovated is sitting there as an additional .30-06
with a Trijicon 3-9x40 tritium-lit scope. A Remington 700 with Leupold VX-II
scope is in the safe, but likely to be sold soon. A Mosin-Nagant (M44 or
M38) ride in each vehicle.
I formerly had [Ruger] Mini-30s. I could never find any 20 or 30 round magazines
that would function reliably. I sold them and got SKS carbines. When I quit
holding out
for TLSU to become a Warrior and carry one, I sold them off to fund other
toys. I am pondering the purchase of an AK folder because it is a sack of
hammers
tough and can be transported discretely. I don’t know if I have ever
come out on the positive side when selling a gun. Now I have to re-buy an
AR-15 to have one for training purposes. The SKSs could be useful for arming
the
family showing up on your doorstep. Hindsight being 20/20, I would caution
against selling any gun you buy. (The 700 mentioned above is a 2nd precision
weapon and I have no AK to train with. Still deciding.)
Ammo is required to feed these weapons. I have over 10,000 rounds of 7.62x51.
I have over 10,000 rounds of .22 LR. No, I don’t think these amounts
are enough. Now that the costs of ammo have risen to heart stopping levels,
I really don’t feel like I bought enough in the past!
I need to plus up the quantities/smatterings of other cartridges that I have
like .30-30 Winchester, .270 Winchester,
.40 S&W.
The location of my home is the best I could get balancing competing requirements.
It is as far from the city as we can get and still stomach the drive to work.
It is between two major line of drift corridors – 12 miles to the major
one, 8 miles to the secondary one. It is bordered by neighbors on only one
side. The folks in the cemetery don’t say much. The critters in the
wildlife area are more vocal - the ducks, turkeys, geese, hoot owls, loons,
coyotes
sound off regularly. We don’t mind. About 95% of the property is wooded.
A few hickory, lots of oak. walnut, (unfortunately) locust trees are all
there.
The local river comes out of it’s banks about every other year and
blocks our driveway for several days, but never comes near the house. The
German Shorthair
is long in the tooth for security, but she is there. A new pup is in the
pipeline.
I would feel a great deal more secure if the homestead was picked up and
dropped into Idaho or Alaska. It is about as good as we can do, though, staying
near
a major city so we can have decent paying jobs. There are some improvements
we can make though. I just bought a weather alert radio from Cabela’s
today. Tough to hear tornado sirens when you live miles away and have 1 foot
thick walls! We need a driveway monitor/alarm. Again, the superior insulation
of
the walls means we hear nothing outside. I can see the utility
of sandbags if things got really ugly. Some more land line communication
assets would be
useful. I think an AR-15 for training people would be useful, as would an
AK. Overall, I think we have done pretty well in the security arena.
Our Home
We started the 10 years in a condo. It was part of a six-plex set on a small
pond. I hate Homeowner’s Associations and their covenants! We could afford
the mortgage on one of our two paychecks. Good thing! I didn’t get a
paycheck for four years. We scraped by. Two years after re-entering the job
market we built our house. We worked on the plans for five years. Beware! Finding
a property piece and building a non-shoebox home on it is not for the feint
of
heart!
You effectively are funding the construction of a mini town. You build and
maintain mini roads (your driveway). You must build and maintain a mini sewage
plant (Your septic system/pond). You must build and maintain a mini water plant.
(Your well.) You must perform mowing and tree removal for the mini parks of
your town (Your “yard”/acreage). I will write a separate article
detailing our construction woes.
Let me highlight some of the self-reliant features of the house for you. We
did not want to spend a constant stream of Federal Reserve Notes [FRNs]on
maintenance. We used insulated concrete form (ICF) construction for the structural
strength
and the energy efficiency. The metal roof should outlast us. The geothermal
and
the
R-50 walls
of the
ICF are paying us back the initial investment in construction costs. We opted
for no carpeting due to the track in mud nature of the property, having a dog,
and me having allergies. Wood and tile floors don’t hold dirt like carpets
do. Less fire hazard as well. We used commercial steel doors for the exterior
and security-need spots. They have ASSA
[high security] locks. They have peepholes.
The basement has a 10’ square root cellar for the storage of canned produce
from the garden. It also has a safe room/shelter. 12” of concrete overhead.
The well head is enclosed in it. Land line telephone and power service into
it via buried lines. Food stored in it. DC wiring
in place to the attic for when we get to the photovoltaic [PV]
system. We also ran DC wires to each room in the house for the use of LED lighting
off of a battery system. The soapstone
wood
stove
augments the electrically driven geothermal. (In spite of several damaging
thunderstorms this past year, we have not lost power so far – great job
juice Coop!)
The stairwell was kicked out onto the W/NW of the house. This shields the house
from the hottest part of the day’s sunlight, and the coldest winter winds.
We made the stairwell an extra foot wide. What a huge nice difference that
foot makes to walking up and down each day, not to mention moving stuff up
or down them! The mud porch/entry was set up for coming in with muddy boots,
or for snow covered coats. We should have made it 1’ wider, as it can
be a little tight. The bench is great for donning/doffing boots. The tile is
easy to clean the muddy paw prints, human or canine, off of.
Windows were one of the few areas that caused some fireworks. TLSU wanted a
green house in order to take advantage of the great view of the property. I
wanted firing ports to defend against mutant zombie hordes. I am still hugely
uncomfortable with the nakedness the windows leave us with. Yes the view is
great, but what about when we experience incoming rounds, or more mundanely,
when someone comes out to the property while we are away from the house all
day at work and they help themselves to our stuff? Some relief is in sight,
however. We are pricing Shattergard vinyl film for the ground floor windows.
Things That are Still Need on the Home
The great thing about the R-50 ICF walls is that they are R-50 and pretty tough.
The bad thing is that they are R-50 and pretty tough. We can’t hear anything without
a door or window being open. Hence the just purchased weather alert radio for
us from Cabela’s this week. It is kind of eerie waking up at
0200 hours and having no idea if the thunderstorm is just a thunderstorm or
if it is a tornado. The television is useless when the rain is so heavy that
the dish won’t get a signal. With regard to 2-legged varmints, a driveway
MURS Alert
system is on the purchase list as we have had multiple invited guests show
up, beat on the front door, and have to walk around to the living room
windows to get our attention so they can be let inside. Okay for invited guests – certainly
too close for uninvited varmints!
The entry hallway was one of TLSU’s “must haves” in the house
layout. It has worked out well in terms of traffic flow and such. The security
door at the foot of the stairs is a tough choke point to deal with at 0500
in the dark. No light installed there means nothing is visible through the
peephole.
I will have to install a camera and/or light so I don’t open it to let
the dog out in the morning and get rushed by 2-legged varmints.
So far, the only commo needs are between myself and TLSU. When the sister-in-law,
brother-in-law, parents-in-law and my Mom show up and we start pulling
security, we will need to be able
to talk more. I have an old set of TA-312 [field telephone]s and wire for the
primary LP/OP,
but obviously will need more in this area. Just not a sexy/fun area to spend
FRNs on for a combat arms kinda guy, but I am working on the self-discipline
needed.
We did look ahead and sink the FRNs into running 12V wires in the home for
future installation of PV panels and batteries. Obviously things like the Shattergard
film, more food, more Band-aids, etc., are of a higher priority though. We
are working our tails off to reach the 20% equity mark to get rid of the PMI
extortion as well. I still have an ASSA lock to install on the shelter door,
and one to put into the basement door. Other projected door enhancements include
armor plates for the front, outside basement, shelter, and outside storage
doors. There just never seems to be enough $ to go around, does there?
The other major source of fireworks during the home design/build was on-demand
water heaters. Having taken a 30 minute hot shower with one in Germany for
5 marks while on an FTX, I well understand what a brilliant piece of technology
they are. TLSU, having never been outside of CONUS cannot give up on the electric
water heater. She still doesn’t believe that the electricity will ever
go out for more than an hour or two. Wouldn’t it be great to be able
to draw hot water at the kitchen sink, and take a hot shower from a propane
fired on-demand heater? She doesn’t get it yet. Obviously not something
to break up a marriage over. We really did very well on the whole house building
thing. The opposite of what everyone warned us about. I am pretty proud of
that performance!
Food
We started a garden this spring. So far, it is an endeavor run by TLSU. Spinach,
onions, carrots, lettuce, potatoes, beets, and some herbs. I have not been
able to convince her to expand the size. She wants to learn in steps and I
am the whacko that orders 100 seedlings at a time from the conservation department,
which then overwhelms us in the planting department. For example, the first
iteration of this tree-planting endeavor, we got them the Thursday before Easter
weekend. Friday night and all day Saturday we planted our buns off. TLSU was
indeed a great Trooper about it, planting right along with me. Sunday was spent
at church
and pigging out at family’s homes for Easter. Monday I had shoulder surgery
to grind off bone spurs and remove cartilage chips. Too much, too fast. But
at 7 FRNs per 12 seedlings, how can you argue? I have to admit though, that
after two years of the 100 seedlings, I am ready to give it a rest. This year
we settled for seven apple saplings. Initial inspection of the cherry, pecan,
oak, walnut and persimmon seedlings around the house reveals about an 80% survival
rate. Only another 10 years and we will be getting food from them!
The initial freeze dried and bulk storage food needs to be rotated. Anyone
figured out how to do this kind of at home cooking when the two of you work?
The canned/”normal” food is now being rotated with each grocery
store trip. We have canning jars for this year’s veggies and the root
cellar has a robust collection of shelves to store them on. How much is enough?
I
don’t know. Four geographically separate and secure stashes of three
year’s
worth of food for all of the family? Who knows!?
Medical
I have Boo-boo kits just about everywhere now. You know, the band-aid and antibiotic
salve with ibuprofen kit that handles 90% of life’s issues in this area.
Now comes the high-dollar investment stuff. The combat blow-out packs for gunshot
wounds or serious car wrecks. I did go along on a buying trip to a medical
warehouse and got some catheters, sutures, gauze pads, etc.. I did get in on
the last great iodine buy before our loving big brother government banned the
sale of iodine to us mere citizens. (It is a stewable ingredient to make drugs,
you know – “we must deprive/punish all to protect you from a few.
Oh, well, you don’t need to be able to sterilize water anyway – we’ll
take care of you on that too….”)
TLSU and I eat very healthy food – locally raised beef with no antibiotics
or growth hormones. No growth hormone dairy products from a local dairy. Spinach
from the garden. There are sugar detectors on the doors. Also, no chips allowed.
We get to the dentist regularly. We both do Physical Training (PT)
. She jogs 3 miles, 3-4 times per week. I run over lunch at work about 4 miles,
4-5 times
per week
and
lift
weights twice per week.
“Needed Still” list includes: Blow out kits, more bandages, more
hospital type stuff, more medicines, syrup of ipecac, more antibiotics, more
feminine
stuff (think of a vaginal yeast infection with no drug store open), drinking
alcohol, poison Ivy soap and remedies, athlete’s foot cream, more baby
wipes, more hand sanitizer, all forms of baby stuff, get the bone spur ground
smooth in my other shoulder and the cartilage chips taken out, get rid of the
cat (allergies).
Vehicles
We still have the same vehicles we had in 2001. A 1998 Toyota Corolla bought
with 30,000 miles, and a 1999 Ford Explorer bought with 45,000 miles. Both
were
paid in full when bought. Both avoided the 25% loss of value when driving a
new car off the lot. The Corolla gets 37 MPG.
I hate it. Every bit of plastic on it has broken – the car door locking
mechanisms, the trunk lock, the ventilation system fan. It gets 37 MPG. I can’t
find anything to touch that. The Ford is too big to get decent mileage, and
too small to really be
a useful truck. It is paid for and has AWD/4WD.
It always starts. Both vehicles have BIBs and gas masks in them. Both have
trunk guns. Both have roadside gear
to help ourselves out of a jam. We are saving for the replacement of them both.
We are going to be saving for quite a while. We need more cash in the BIBs
and Bug Out Bags (BOBs)
All of the preps in this section were done via Cabela points. I bought gas
and paid for business expenses - everything I could pay for with a credit card
was paid for with the Cabela’s credit card. You get points at some sickening
rate of $.01/FRN spent, $.02/FRN in the store. However, when you buy $6-8,000/month
of stuff between personal and business stuff, it adds up! The gear for the
BOBs & BIBs, weapons gear and parts – a significant percentage – 85%+
- came from Cabela [credit card bonus] points. When I got birthday or Christmas
monetary gifts I spent them on self-reliance items. We did this never incurring
any
interest
penalties because we zero the balance out each month. Our BOBs are set-up to
sustain us for 10 days. They are packed in Cabela’s wet bags for load
out in five minutes. Originally I sought to wear a tactical vest and ruck.
After two unsuccessful winter BOB campouts where I could barely waddle one
mile with
both of them on at the same time, I dropped the vest. TLSU’s back is
in tough shape due to scoliosis, so she is not humping any mammoth rucks with
the extra three mortar rounds and can of 7.62 linked. We also decided that
the G21 was what she could carry and dropped the SKS and chest pouches of 10
round stripper clips. Her ruck is a Camelback Commander. That is as big of
a ruck as she can hope to carry without killing her back. We are not leaving
home to go on a combat patrol in Hit or Fallujah. We are fleeing some kind
danger and have every intention of avoiding additional entanglements, to include
government hospitality suites in stadiums.
The Lovely Spousal Unit (TLSU)
I started self-reliance the wrong way. No consensus development. I saw a danger
and acted. I am a male/sheepdog/warrior type. I am not sure that I could have
ever persuaded her to participate in any meaningful manner before Y2K. She
has only recently begun to do so after eight years of seeing me provide for
and protect her. I was, however, stubborn/strong enough to do what I thought
was
the right thing and to heck with what was popular. Most “males” check
their gender specific anatomical gear at the wedding alter and continue on
in sheeple status. I get that females are the nurturers. I get that they work
from an emotional starting point, not logical. Not wanting the tornado to destroy
the house or the hurricane to wreck your and the adjoining three counties is,
at best, the French method of addressing life. TLSU is finally helping me to
rotate food via the grocery store purchases. She no longer rolls her eyes or
sighs disgustedly when I spend my Cabela points to buy gear. Once I explained
to her that I was planning to shelter and feed her parents and siblings and
that our one year of food wasn’t going to feed all of them for very long,
she started to get on board. She even likes spending the points off of her
Cabela’s card now. She is running 3-4 times per week and gets some PT
from work outside in the garden. She has come a long way. As best as I can
tell, she will not ever be a warrior. We have come a substantial distance from
sleeping on the couch each time a self-reliance topic hits the table of discussion
though. A definite and growing check mark in the “W” column!
Skills
Skills that I have acquired:
Rifles – renovating Mausers and training at Thunder Ranch helps
your ability to use these tools immensely.
Soldering – fixing plumbing leaks myself vs. paying a plumber $200
to show up and start billing me for work
Building – I invested 13 full work weeks of time during the building
of our home helping the contractor. Some of it was the nubby work of cleaning
up the scrap and sawdust. Some of it was banging in joist hangers. I laid
all the tile and 95% of the wood flooring in the house.
Fix-it – the DR Brush mower has long passed it’s warranty
period and while performing quite admirably, does need attention every now
and then.
The 1974 F100 demands attention regularly. Each of these repair work challenges
teaches me a little more about mechanical items and taking care of things
myself.
Sewing – Yes, my dear Grandmother taught me to sew buttons, and
my Mom taught me to survival sew/repair things. A 1960 gear driven Singer sews
nylon
gear though!; )
Skills still needed:
More First Aid – it appears that a first responder or wilderness 1st
aid course may be in the cards for this year.
More Hand to Hand – my goals and objectives list has had this goal
on it for several years. Good news – I got started on knocking it off the
list. Bad news, it revealed an “old man” shortcoming in my shoulder.
Good news, I am getting the shoulder fixed (hopefully) during “normal” times
versus after Schumerization. I just may get ambushed and not have my trusty
M1A in hand. Having unarmed defense skills means never having to be a steak
dinner/victim.
More riflesmithing – each birthday or Christmas gift of money has
been partially apportioned to the purchase of gunsmithing tooling. I need more
practice
with the tools I have. I still need more tooling. I recently secured Parkerizing
gear, but have not gotten the metal stands for the tanks built. Still,
progress is progress and I can already do more to maintain weapons than
95% of the
population.
Knife making – I just cringe at the idea of spending $300 for top
quality knives. CRKT is my friend. Even better is learning to assemble the
scales and
blank myself. Eventually, knowing how to forge blanks myself would be useful.
Mill lumber – with 95% of my property wooded, I have the material
to be self-reliant with regard to my lumber needs. I need a way to saw the
tree into lumber though. First, the mill, then the skill to use it. Then
I have
the gear to diversify my income and help others.
Have I always done the smartest thing? Absolutely not! Much to the crazed
satisfaction of a former operator buddy, I have cycled through the “best/high
dollar” gear
approach to the “sack of hammers USGI/AK” school of self-reliance.
Don’t get me wrong – I ain’t surrendering my Kifaru rucks
anytime soon! However, there were a great number of FRNs spent on those self-reliance
tuition payments! Have I learned a lot? Absolutely, yes! Am
I better able to maintain my independence and protect and provide for my
family? Absolutely,
yes! Could you do better than I did? Good chance. Have you
done as much as I have in the last 10 years? Only your freedom, loved ones,
and the quality
of your life post-TEOTWAWKI depend on the answer to that one.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: The Wal-Mart Discount Prescription Promotion »
Two Letters Re: Alternatives to Firearms for Defense and Hunting in a Survival Situation
Mr. Rawles,
In his article [Alternatives
to Firearms for Defense and Hunting in a Survival Situation], Bill H. missed
something very important in his segment on air rifles, the modern large bore
pre-charged pneumatic (PCP)
rifle. I have a Quackenbush
.308 caliber. It shoots standard .308 diameter cast lead bullets into one
hole at 25 yards and does about 800 to 900 feet per second. It is my first
choice for killing stray/feral dogs. Filling the reservoir with a hand pump
is a tiresome job and plinking with the gun is not fun due to the work it requires.
However you cannot beat it for accuracy, low cost shooting or sustainability.
There is no part of the gun except the barrel that cannot easily be made in
my home machine shop, so who cares if it has parts that aren't common. Any
machinist worthy of the name can make any part on the gun or pump that could
conceivably break or wear out.
I do hope to get a spring piston rifle soon for practice and training my children
to shoot, but it will never replace my PCP air rifle. Modern big bore PCP rifles
are adequate for hunting deer and other large game and more than sufficient
for
killing varmints. With my .308 PCP I get complete penetration on [feral] dogs.
What more could I ask?
- Andrew B.
Jim,
It can be prudent to not quite break the 1,100 fps barrier, as the resulting
sonic 'crack' would sound like shooting a .22 anyhow. That would definitely draw
attention in an urban environment. - Sid, near Niagara Falls
JWR Replies: Thanks for mentioning that. The
speed of sound is nearly 1,118 fps at 60 degrees Fahrenheit. (OBTW, the
oft-quoted "at standard barometric pressure, at sea level" phrase
is better expressed "at X degrees air temperature", since air pressure
and the density of air are proportional at a given air temperature.)
« Four Letter Re: Healthy Harvest Food Storage and Emergency Supplies |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Alternatives to Firearms for Defense and Hunting in a Survival Situation, by Bill H.
While in a modern setting there is no replacement for a well maintained firearm,
individuals who read Survival Blog are well aware that the terms "Modern", "Optimal" and "Best
Case" are unlikely to apply in the not so distant future. Most tools can
serve more than one purpose. A large Crescent wrench can be used as an impromptu
hammer for example. Likewise your .308 battle rifle could be used to hunt rabbits,
but it has several drawbacks to be being used in such a way. However just as
a proper tool kit has a hammer as well as a Crescent wrench, a well-stocked
retreat has a .308 (or similar rifle) as well as an alternative way to hunt
small game. Keeping that in mind a bit of research into alternative weapons
coupled with some practice would be advisable for those who wish to provide
for and protect their families.
This article is in no way meant to be a comprehensive study of these alternatives
but rather a starting point or overview of some of these possibilities. We
will discuss modern versions of ancient weapons as well as an improvised archaic
weapon. The important thing is to look at the possibilities and outside what
is accepted. These tools may not be as efficient as a modern firearm or as
easy to learn as a single shot rifle, but are well worth your consideration.
Air guns
We often think of these tools as a kid's toy, yet the truth is that the technologies
of sending a projectile down range by using compressed air has been around
since the 15th Century and at one time were made as sniper rifles and even
big game rifles for Boar and Bear. Admittedly the air guns available to us
are a far cry from those antique products of great craftsman, but they are
still worth consideration. The benefits of these tools is that they are as
simple to use as a single shot rifle and, depending on the quality, very capable
of taking small game. The drawback is that they require specialized maintenance
and can be difficult to repair due to the nature of specialized parts.
Air guns are commonly available in three calibers, .177, .20 and .22. Of these
three calibers the two most common and in my opinion the 2 worth consideration
is the .177 and the .22.
When choosing a caliber keep in mind that the velocity of the projectile plus
its mass will translate to its power on impact. For this reason the .22 caliber
tends to be, at first glance the best choice. Keep in mind however that the
projectiles in this case are lead pellets and a healthy argument can be made
for the variety of the .177. BB's are reusable and when moving at high velocity
capable of killing or deterring a variety of pests. Often the addition of a
small magnet must be used to enable a quality pellet gun to fire a BBs.
For the purposes of this article the three types of air guns available are
CO2, Pump, and Spring Piston. Of the three I suggest that CO2 air guns be discarded
immediately. The need for [commercially filled] CO2 cartridges and the relatively
low power of these tools make them useful only as training aids and of limited
practical
use to
the survivalist.
Pump guns use a piston to compress a gas and store it in a cylinder. These
often are less expensive and are available at a variety of big chain stores.
The drawback of these tools I that they must be pumped multiple times to build
up a charge and even at their greatest charge are still underpowered.
Spring piston guns use a lever to compress a spring which drives a piston,
which in turn provides the compressed air that drives the projectile. This
is an efficient and practical tool and is the design that I suggest Research
the air guns available to you and make your decision accordingly. RWS and Beeman
are the two top manufacturers and both sell rifles capable of over 1,100 fps.
Cost for one of these tools can run over $300 but careful shopping can get
you
a good quality air gun for around $200.
Regardless of your choice make sure that you purchase the proper maintenance
equipment and read the owners manual to get the best use from these tools.
Treating them like a firearm for anything but safety will quickly lead to disappointment
and potentially catastrophic failure. For example the compressed gas from a
spring piston air gun can ignite gun oil and the resulting discharge will destroy
the gun.
[JWR Adds: It is important that every family
have at least one high-power spring-piston air rifle. They are ideal for pest
shooting and for low cost indoor target practice. One Internet mail order dealer
that I recommend is Pyramid
Air. They have a good selection and competitive prices. They are also one
of our Affiliate
advertisers. We get a little piece of the action when your place an order
with any of our affiliates.]
Crossbows
Often romanticized by movies the crossbow seldom performs the way the purchaser
had hoped. The nature of the short prod or bow offers a very powerful but short
lived energy source. They do not have the accurate range of a bow, yet have
the benefit of being able to be left cocked and fired from a prone position.
The crossbow is capable of taking large game and has the additional benefit
of being able to reuse its ammo. However it is clearly recognized by any observer
and as such if seen garner the same attention as a firearm. It is however quiet
compared to a firearm and as such for survival hunting can be a good choice.
There are three basic types of crossbows available. The Standard crossbow,
the Compound Crossbow and the pistol crossbow. Of these three I find that the
pistol
crossbow is most commonly a novelty item with very little practical use. Arguments
have been made that at up to a 75 lb prod that they are capable of taking small
game and have the benefit of being highly portable. I disagree with this reasoning
but encourage readers to make up there own mind. At a cost of as little as
$20 I found that purchasing one to test then trading it away when I
had confirmed my suspicions to be well worth an afternoons diversion.
The compound Crossbow looks quite impressive and the mechanical advantage
of the wheels does make the bolt travel faster. The cost for these tools
however
tends to be quite a bit greater than that of a standard crossbow and the decision
on whether the extra cost is worth it depends on your budget. It has the disadvantage
of being more difficult to repair than a standard crossbow with more failure
points.
The standard Crossbow comes in a variety of designs both modern and archaic.
The average poundage is about 150 lbs which is more than enough to hunt medium
sized game. Heavier prods, or bows, are available and can increase its capabilities.
Repairs to the mechanical aspects are fairly simple and strings can be made
just like making a bow string. If the Prod is damaged another can be fabricated
using T6 aluminum, fiberglass or even a leaf spring from a small car. Crossbows
are available on line for as little as $50 and well worth the investment
Repairs
Regardless of the design and strength you choose make sure that you purchase
additional strings and a cocking lever to use with it. The cocking lever uses
the mechanical advantage of a lever to make cocking the crossbow easier. It
also has the added advantage of making the pressure on and provided by the
prod evenly on both arms. This is important to increasing the accuracy of the
tool. Practice with it and know its limitations. If you work within its limits
the crossbow can be a useful addition to your survival tools. [JWR Adds: If
you plan to buy a crossbow, do plenty of research before you buy. Many models
have inferior designs that exert excessive friction
on their bowstrings, leading to their early failure. Some have been known
to "eat" their bowstrings in as little as 200 shots!]
Other Bows
There are many books on the subjects of bows and more information than is
practical to go over here. Personally I have a compound bow that I use for
Hunting, a
recurve bow that I use for primitive archery shoots and a couple of fiberglass
bows that have been purchased at garage sales. The later are 35 lb bows that
I have on hand as trade goods and training tools.
Compound bows are very fast and have the benefit of incorporating a "let
off" which allows a heavy poundage bow to be held at full draw for a more
accurate aiming. While superior to older style bows they are difficult to repair
and replacement parts can be very difficult if not impossible to fabricate.
Traditional bows come in a wide variety of styles including longbows, recurve
bows reflex deflex bows and many more. Traditional bows can range in poundage
from 15 lbs to well over 100 lbs. When considering a traditional bow consult
a local expert. There are many clubs that practice primitive archery and skills
from making your own strings to making longbows from scratch are often available
for the asking.
No matter what design of bow you choose, make sure to purchase a good supply
of arrows and learn the requirements of making your own arrows out of local
materials. Practice with this tool and it can help you feed your family.
Slingshots
A modern slingshot uses surgical tubing to propel a projectile down range.
These tools are often seen as children's toys and are overlooked by adults
when planning their emergency equipment. The truth is that these tools are
extremely useful and capable of devastating force and accuracy. They are capable
of taking small game quite readily and with luck can take medium sized game.
As a kid around 14 years old, I often used a "Wrist Rocket" to hunt
for squirrel and rabbit. One summer I was out hunting and saw a deer. I decided
to practice
my stalking and stealthily approached to within 10-15 feet of the deer, who
in truth had probably seen me and was unconcerned. In a move typical of a thoughtless
adolescent
I placed a large glass marble in my slingshot, drew to my cheek and released.
The marble struck the deer in the head and it fell to the ground as if poll
axed. I ran home and told dad who promptly kicked my sorry rear end all the
way back to the deer, made me dress it out, cut it up and pack it out by myself.
All the time offering criticisms on my judgment, technique and general intelligence.
I learned powerful lessons that day about responsibility and consequences.
And while I would not care to have to reproduce taking a deer with a slingshot
I learned that it is much more capable than most give it credit for.
I suggest that several of these be acquired and one kept with G.O.O.D. kits.
Store each with a bag of marbles and some lead or steel shot. A bit of practice
will make this tool an excellent game getter and while not what I would prefer,
I would not hesitate to use it as a deterrent against two-legged predator if
a firearm option was not available.
[JWR Adds: Used slingshots are often available at garage
sales and eBay. Older ones will usually need replacement surgical tubing.
This tubing is best bought in bulk. (Again, most reasonably priced on eBay.)
Buy a 50+ foot long roll of it. It has umpteen uses, and any excess
will be great for barter. It can be used as spring material for various projects,
a binding clamp for gluing woodworking projects, Scuba diving spear guns,
et cetera.]
The Sling
The sling is an ancient weapon which uses centrifugal force to propel a projectile
down range. While this tool takes far more practice than any than those mentioned
above it also has the benefit of easily being fabricated, literally from the
cloths off ones back. A Google search on "Sling" will provide a large
number of web pages to help familiarize the reader with making and employing
a sling.
While I do not suggest the sling as a primary alternative weapon I do highly
suggest that a bit of experimentation and familiarization would be very useful
if the balloon were to go up when you were away from your retreat or G.O.O.D.
bag. Besides, it can be a great deal of fun [and a means of exercise].
[JWR Adds: Because traditional slings require a large swinging
arc, they are only suitable for use in large open areas. Overhead tree branches
or ceilings render slings useless. A slingshot powered by surgical rubber tubing
is far more practical for a typical suburban user.]
While far from a comprehensive list I hope that this article has given
you food for thought. Any of the above tools can be partnered with a firearm
to
make an excellent hunting combination and have the benefits of allowing you
to harvest game without the tell tale noise of a gun shot.
A side note
As a resident of California, the potential use of these tools are especially
important. I live under the constant possibility of firearms confiscation.
This need not be the statewide confiscation that most of us fear. Rather
it could be an individual situation that stems from a simple misunderstanding.
An example of this was demonstrated in a rural area of Los Angeles County
recently
when a man used a .22 [rimfire] rifle to kill a crow that was destroying
his garden, this was admittedly illegal. The man owns five acres and his nearest
neighbor
is several hundred yards away. A neighbor heard him talking about having
dispatched the animal and reported it to the local Sheriff. When officers
arrived to investigate
the issue they asked him if he had any firearms. He admitted he had and allowed
them to accompany him to get the .22 rifle in question, which was secured
in a small gun safe. The officers confiscated all of the
firearms as part of the
investigation. All were legally owned and obtained by the man, and the seizure
was not legal--facts that his lawyer proved in court. He won the court case
at great personal cost and the Sheriff was ordered to return his firearms.
However, when he went to collect these firearms he was informed by the Sheriff's
department that the weapons had been mistakenly destroyed with the firearms
from a recent gun "Buy Back". He continues to wait for reimbursement.
Had he used an air gun or slingshot to dispatch the animal then he would
have
never
went through this situation. Admittedly in another state or indeed another
county it probably would have not happened at all. However no matter where
you are there are times when not drawing attention to the fact that you have
firearms can be beneficial.
Do your research and experiment with these tools to find the best one,
or combination of them for your family.
JWR Adds: Be sure to research your state and local laws--including
fish and game laws--before buying any of these weapons. Some of the Nanny
State jurisdictions now have
laws on the books that have made their use, and in some cases even mere
possession,
illegal. The context in which they are seen by
authorities is often crucial in justifying the legal possession of weapons
or "dual use" items. A spear gun by itself in
the trunk of your car would probably be seen as a "weapon", but
one that i stowed in a dive bag, along with a mask, snorkel, fins, diving
flag, a current
fishing license, and a copy of the current year's fishing regulations would
be seen as innocuous. Ditto for a baseball bat, that by
itself
could be misconstrued. But if stowed in a dufflebag bag with balls, gloves,
and a batting helmet would look quite different. A flare gun by itself in
the
glove
box
of your
car would
be a major no-no in many jurisdictions, but one that is stowed in box or
bag in your car trunk along with an air horn, nautical charts, current tide
tables, and
a
GPS receiver
could
easily
be explained.
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Letter Re: Ammunition Reloading for Survival
Jim,
I saw the article that mentioned Reloading for autoloading rifles, and some comments
that seemed to not completely answer questions people may have.
It is important to note that reloading any caliber is a delicate undertaking
for any gun you are about to trust your life with. The use of case gauges is
an important one, but for the part-time reloader they are an expensive investment
(~$30-50 each!). A much easier method is to test the cartridge in the firearm, to accomplish this, if you are working on either a progressive or single stage press, reload a few rounds as dummies. This means
no powder, no primer, just case and bullet, and test them in the gun for fit
and feed. Do not test fit live ammunition unless you are in a place where a
discharge is allowed. (For most of us [that live inside city limits] this means
a firing range). Numerous negligent discharges have resulted from people not
following proper safety precautions, and even if you do this is never a guarantee that
a mechanical problem won't develop causing an accidental discharge.
If you have issues with reloading bottle-neck rifle cartridges, a likely fix
is to use small base dies, these will size the brass down to a smaller size,
and will size more of the case than a standard full-length sizer. However,
the added working of the brass will result in earlier failure of the brass.
When it comes to [reloading] dies, I recommend against buying those made by
Lee Precision, I have had far too many cases that were mangled, scratched,
or had other defects resulting from the poor quality of Lee [brand] dies. One
thing to be especially careful of when using Lee dies is the decapping pin
will sometimes
stick in the flash-hole, if you are working on automated loading equipment this will likely detonate the [fresh] primer when you go to seat
it. (Most other manufacturers have switched to a headed [de-capping] pin, making
this
an extremely rare problem.). RCBS, Redding, and Lyman all make very good and
sturdy
dies from hardened tool steel, Dillon offers tungsten-carbide sizing dies for
bottle neck rifle cartridges, if you have money to spend, the Dillon dies
will likely outlast your grandchildren, provided they have an adequate supply
of decapping pins (RCBS, Lyman, and a few others offer free replacement parts,
Dillon believes these to be a consumable item, and charges for them).
Regarding the differences between Military and Commercial cartridge specifications
You are absolutely correct, 5.56 and .223 have the same external case dimensions,
but for the most part the similarities stop there. 5.56 has a SAAMI maximum
working-pressure of 55,000 PSI, where as the .223 [Remington] maxes out at
50,000. If a 5.56 round is fired in a .223 firearm, then pressures are likely
to
be
extreme, another key difference is the 5.56 chamber and throat dimensions
are different, the engraving force will be reduced, and there is the potential
for some gas leakage to the rear, a cumulative effect of this will be lower
over-all pressures.
However, with .308 [Winchester] and 7.62mm NATO [the specification difference]
is slightly the other way, but for different reasons. The .308 and 7.62mm NATO
rounds are functionally
identical, while there was some disagreement about the chamber pressures generated by
some commercial ammo (SAAMI maximum some say is 62,000 PSI) and some military
ammo (maximum pressure at 50,000), there seems to be a larger issue with the
military chamber being longer, and thus being harder on the brass. If you are
reloading,
you
can account for these differences with your selection of load and powder. That is one of the true advantages of reloading your own ammunition.
In all likelihood, anyone using a good quality military semi-auto in 7.62mm
NATO isn't going to notice any difficulty using commercial .308 ammo. But keep
it in mind if you ever do encounter problems.
I hope all is well Jim, glad to see you are getting some more public exposure.
It seems that the population at large is waking up, I had a co-worker hand
me your book "Patriots" the
other day. I giggled a bit to myself and told him I already had the book. Even
my mom started asking me questions about the SurvivalBlog site, after hearing
about it on the news. Lets hope all the people who are waking up to the unpleasantness
we are all facing are able to head it off and clean up this mess before a lot
of people have to get hurt. Sincerely, - Drew
JWR Adds: Part of the problem in discussions regarding commercial
versus military cartridge specifications is that some of the specs are written
in terms of pounds per square inch (PSI), while others are written using Copper
Units of Pressure (C.U.P.) They are not the same scales!
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Food Shortages at COSTCO and Sam's Club Stores »
Letter Re: Ammunition Reloading for Survival
James,
You might want to mention that reloading for semi-auto rifles requires
an extra measure of care. After sizing, cases should be checked with a Wilson
or Dillon case gauge to make sure they are
are sized correctly. Maximum overall case and cartridge lengths have to be
adhered to
[Clint McKee,] the owner of Fulton Armory is very "down" on reloading
for semi-auto battle rifles, and I believe most of the [bolt out of fully-locked
position]
Kabooms with AR-15 type rifles have occurred with reloaded ammo. While one
should be
very
careful
when
reloading ammunition of any type, one must be very, very careful when
reloading ammo for semi-auto rifles.
Thx, - "Walter Mitty"
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Ammunition Reloading for Survival, by NC Bluedog
Ammunition storage is one of the survival planning trinity: ("Beans,
Bullets and Band-Aids"). But what happens when you run out? You can’t
plant a garden for 7.62mm NATO or
cut up old sheets to make .45 ACP.
In this case you need to at least consider the practice (some would say art)
of ammunition
reloading. Speaking from a perspective of more than 10 years experience, I
can honestly say that reloading is no more difficult than repairing a leaking
faucet and baking a loaf of bread. It is very similar to making up a recipe
with a few mechanical interventions. It is also relatively safe, so long as
you don’t try to smoke while measuring powder or try to seat a primer
with a hammer. I will limit this discussion to center fire metallic handgun
and rifle cartridges, but similar considerations would apply to shotshell
reloading.
First, let me present an introduction on ammunition components. There are four
basic ingredients to loaded ammunition: Primer, powder, brass case,
and projectile.
We will handle each in order. We need to be precise in our use of language
(Thank you Jeff Cooper!) A cartridge or round is one unit of loaded ammunition.
A bullet is the projectile of a cartridge (in the same sense that a clip is
different from a magazine). Let me stress at this point that if you already
have all the components, it is far better to put it together now rather
than later. Reloading takes time, something that may be in extremely short
supply in a TEOTWAWKI situation.
If your ammunition inventory is adequate, you should consider keeping some
components for barter or future use, but the
majority of your powder should be in loaded ammunition!
Primers and powder are the two things which cannot be reused and require an
industrial capacity to produce. Making primers out of matchstick heads or smokeless
powder out of nitric acid and cotton should be regarded a fantasy for individuals
wanting to survive. While black powder can be made relatively safely, it will
not function well in modern firearms. There is a reason the old-time black
powder cartridges were as big as cigars, smokeless powder is far more efficient
and safer to handle as well. In other words, if you are considering reloading
sometime in the future, you should store some primers and powder now while
they are available. (A political aside: In addition to banning guns and ammunition,
there have been legislative attempts to ban reloading components.)
Primers come in two sizes each for both pistol and rifle for a total of four
sizes: Small pistol, large pistol, small rifle and large rifle (Pistol in this
sense includes revolver cartridges). The small version of each type is designed
for smaller cartridges and vice versa. While small pistol and small rifle are
essentially the same size (likewise for large pistol and large rifle), they
are designed to ignite vastly different powder charges. Mixing them up can
lead to disaster. An example of a small pistol primer cartridge would be the
9mm NATO (also known as 9x19, 9mm Parabellum and 9mm Luger). The .45 ACP uses
a large pistol primer. The 5.56mm NATO (aka .223
Remington and 5.56x45) uses the small rifle primer, and the 7.62mm NATO (aka
.308 Winchester and 7.62x51)
uses the large rifle primer. Due to the difference in size between small and
large, confusion would be difficult and impossible to use incorrectly, but
do not confuse pistol and rifle primers of the same size.
Besides the four basic sizes, there is a myriad of subtypes, including standard,
magnum, match and military grade. Magnum primers are a niche market and not
used in common caliber ammunition (Note .357 Remington Magnum does not use
a magnum primer), so you can safely ignore them. Match grade primers are supposedly
made with tighter specifications and better quality control. Military primers
typically have a “harder” cup and require a strong firing pin impact
to ignite, but are less likely to be punctured by a misshaped or pointed firing
pin or suffer a slam fire in semi-autos with floating firing pins. The differences
in my experience are minimal to nonexistent and you can safely ignore them
and go with standard primers. Typical military style weapons (in good working
condition) such as AR-15s FN/FALs and M1As work fine with
standard primers. Likewise, the difference between the manufactures such as
Federal, Winchester, Remington and CCI are also minimal.
Reloading powder (also called canister grade propellant) is available in a
confusing array of types from multiple manufacturers. The most distinguishing
characteristic is know as burning rate, with a huge spectrum between the slow
and fast burning (arbitrary unit designation). The burning rate is controlled
by several manufacturing techniques. First is composition. Powders can be either
single or double base, with the double base including a proportion of nitroglycerin
in addition to the nitrocellulose. The size and shape (spherical or rod shaped)
of the powder granules also dramatically alters the burning rate as does various
coatings applied in manufacture. The burning rate is tailored to the pressure
limits of individual cartridges as well as the projectile weight and barrel
length. The general rule is faster powders are used in handguns and slower
powders in rifle ammunition. Smokeless powder is listed by weight (typically
in grains, one pound is 7000 grains) for a given charge, but is usually measured
volumetrically to obtain the desired weight. This is one reason I prefer spherical
(also called ball) propellants. The spheres measure much more uniformly when
metered by volume.
Just as we simplified the primer issue down to four basic types, the more than
100 different powders available can be vastly simplified for personal reloading.
For example, I typically store only four different powders and could go with
two in a pinch, one moderately fast for handguns and one moderately slow for
rifles. Now, let me discuss safety. While smokeless powder is very stable,
it is flammable. Unless contained in a closed space (such as a cartridge) it
will only burn, albeit vigorously. It will not explode if dropped or otherwise
mistreated. Primers on the other hand are designed to explode if crushed. Treat
them as you would treat loaded ammunition. Both components prefer a stable
room temperature without excessive humidity and will survive almost indefinitely
in such an environment. One thousand primers takes up about as much space as
two decks of cards and an eight pound jug of powder is about the size of a
gallon of milk.
Our next component is the brass cartridge case, hereafter simple called brass
or case. Apart from factory new brass, most reloading is done with used cases.
These can come from collecting your own to scavenging the local shooting range.
I prefer to reuse my own brass since I know its’ history, but “when
times get tough….” When scavenging brass, one needs to be extremely
careful. Modern factory ammunition is made with several different metals besides
brass. Steel and aluminum are the most common and are definitely not reloadable
in a safe way. They need to be crushed and disposed of. In addition, some foreign
ammunition is Berdan primed (discussion beyond the scope of this article) and
also is not easily or safely reloaded. The problem is that externally, it is
near impossible to tell the difference. For safety’s sake, discard everything
which doesn’t have a recognizable domestic US factory stamp on the case
head (Winchester, Federal, Remington, etc.). Another problem arises with surplus
military brass. These frequently have crimped primer pockets, and while reloadable,
require special care which will be discussed later. All collected brass should
be cleaned and sorted by caliber. Be careful here since some shooting range
ammunition (not necessarily “common caliber”) can be very similar.
For example, a 9x21 is only slightly longer than the much more common 9mm NATO,
but would be catastrophic if it functions at all in a common 9mm. Another common “competition
cartridge” (not “common caliber”) is the.38 Super, which
is also very similar to the 9mm NATO. Again, the safest bet is to discard (or
otherwise sequester) any brass without a legible case stamp indicating caliber.
When scavenging brass, it is also important to discard those with cracks in
the case mouth. This is typically due to the “work hardening” of
the brass during repeated resizing operations. Cases with small dents induced
during ejection in a semi-auto can usually be reused in my experience for routine
plinking ammunition, but shouldn’t be used for loads pushing the pressure
limit. In fact, I wouldn’t use scavenged brass for any “top end” load
since internal volume can vary significantly.
The business end of loaded ammunition, the projectile (aka bullet), also comes
in a withering array of sizes and weights. For simplicities’ sake, there
are two main types, either lead or jacketed. Both types can come in several
styles such as full metal jacket (FMJ), hollow-point, spitzer, round nose,
truncated cone, semi-wadcutter, etc. The only safety caveat here is that “pointed” bullets,
such as spitzers, must not be used in tubular magazine rifles (such as lever
action .30-30’s) since the cartridges are “nose to tail” and
recoil could fire the stacked cartridges. In this case the bullet point is
acting like a firing pin to the cartridge in front of it.
Factory bullets are sold in a specific bore size, commonly measured in thousandths
of an inch, and weight, commonly measured in grains. This is where a lot of
confusion is introduced because of the “naming nomenclature” of
our ammunition. For example, .38 caliber is actually 0.357” and is one
reason why .38 Special can be safely fired in a .357 Magnum. To add to the
confusion, our naming nomenclature is used for a marketing perspective, rather
than precise use of language. For example, both .38 Super and .357 SIG use
9mm bullets (0.355”) instead of the logical .38 caliber (0.357”)
bullets their names would indicate. Here is a table of common caliber ammunition
bullet sizes and range of bullet weights:
| Cartridge |
Nominal Diameter (inches) |
Nominal Weight Range (grains) |
5.56mm NATO
.223 Remington |
.224 |
40-70 (55-62 most common) |
7.62mm NATO
.308 Winchester
.30-06
|
.308 |
110-180 (150-165 most common) |
9mm NATO
.38 Super
.357 SIG |
.355 |
115-147 (124 most common) |
| .357 Magnum |
.357 |
110-180 (158 most common) |
.40 S&W
10mm |
.400 |
135-200 (175 most common) |
| .45 ACP |
.451 |
160-300 (230 most common) |
While it is possible, making jacketed bullets from scratch is difficult. Cast
bullets, on the other hand, are relatively easy to make with appropriate tools
and supplies. Safety note: Molten lead burns skin like almost nothing else,
and lead fumes are dangerous, so adequate ventilation is absolutely critical.
Tools needed include a melting pot with spout or ladle, bullet mold and water
bath/bucket. Lead can be obtained from wheel weights (make sure they are lead,
other metals are used) or by “mining” the berm at the shooting
range. This “dirty” lead will need to be washed, melted, all non-lead
metal (steel weight clips, bullet jacket material, etc.) removed and flux added
to remove dirt. I prefer to obtain cleaned and fluxed lead from other sources
(eBay, etc.) but it is more expensive and as always.
The keys to making good cast bullets are a properly heated and smoked mold.
Nonetheless, the first few casts will likely be misshapen, and need to be thrown
back into the melting pot. I prefer the micro banded or “tumble lube” bullet
molds by Lee Precision since they typically don’t require resizing and
are easily lubed with their Liquid Alox bullet lube.
There are several caveats with regard to using cast bullets. First is that
lead bullets leave a residue in the barrel (commonly called leading), particularly
when fired at higher velocities (greater than 1200-feet per second) and become
significantly worse the higher you go. Second, barrels designed to “swage” the
bullet (most typically Glock with their hexagonal rifling) will cause excessive
pressure when fired with lead bullets. A simple solution is a drop in replacement
barrel with conventional rifling like the Lone Wolf brand.
The velocity limitation imposed with using cast bullets can effectively preclude
their use in semi-auto rifles since effective operation is severely limited
at the lower velocities. Thus, if you are planning to reload rifle ammunition,
I would suggest a supply of jacketed bullets of appropriate size and weight
for your particular firearm.
So, now you have your supply of primers and powder, bullets (either cast or
store bought jacketed) and a fresh supply of brass from the recent firefight
with the Mutant Zombie Hordes, where do you star?. Reloading consists of eight
steps: Cleaning the brass case, decapping the spent primer, resizing the brass
case, re-priming the brass case, belling the case mouth to accept the bullet,
charging the case with powder, seating the new bullet and reshaping or crimping
the case mouth. Several of these steps can be accomplished at the same time,
such as decapping/resizing the brass case, case mouth belling/powder charging
and bullet seating/crimping but I will discuss each separately.
Cleaning is usually done with a vibratory cleaner with a mild abrasive such
as ground corn cob. I prefer the Dillon products, but others are equally useful.
Depending on the state of your brass, all that may be needed is a quick wipe
with a paper towel. It is critical to handle each case to examine for damage
and discard suspect ones.
Decapping the brass case consists of running a punch down the case mouth to
push out the old primer. This is where care must be exercised in cases with
crimped-in primers. After decapping crimped-in primers, the primer pocket must
be reformed to accept a new primer. This can be accomplished by reaming the
pocket with a primer pocket reaming tool or re-swaging the pocket.
Resizing the brass case is mechanically complex, but is easily accomplished
with an appropriate resizing die and reloading press. It is necessary at this
point to bring up the concept of headspace. Headspace is simply the distance
from the bolt face of the firearm to the point where further advancement of
the cartridge into the chamber is stopped. Rimmed cartridges headspace on the
rim, since that is what prevents the cartridge from going further into the
chamber. Rimless cartridges either headspace on a belt (in “belted” magnum
cartridges, serves same function as a rim but leads to easier feeding), on
the shoulder of bottleneck cartridges or the case mouth in straight-walled
ammunition. This is an important concept since if the cartridge is too long
for the chamber; the bolt will not close correctly. If it is too short, the
firing pin may not strike the primer, or worse, it may push the cartridge further
into the chamber before ignition, where pressure locks the case in position
and pushes back on an unsupported case head. Brass is weak compared to steel
and the pressure pushing the case head back to the bolt face may stretch the
brass to where it separates from the body of the cartridge. This is known as
case head separation, and puts extremely hot gas under tremendous pressure
venting right next to your face. Beside the risk of injury or damage to the
firearm, you now have the task of removing a now headless cartridge out of
the chamber before the firearm can be reused.
Resizing the brass case consists of squeezing down the now slightly expanded
fired case back to nominal size. Because of the stresses imparted, lubrication
is usually necessary (except in straight-walled ammunition using carbide dies)
and is easily accomplished with a simple spray of case lube prior to resizing.
This reforming of the brass makes the metal hard and brittle and limits the
number of times it can be done without cracking (most commonly seen as cracks
in the case mouth which undergoes the most change in size). The only dimension
which is not squeezed back to nominal size is the overall length (OAL) and
each subsequent resizing operation tends to lengthen the case neck. After resizing
a couple of times, the neck may need to be trimmed in order to get the OAL
back into specification. I usually discard such brass, since it is removing
brass which has come from somewhere else in the case, thus weakening it to
some extent. This is not so much a concern for low pressure cartridges such
as .45 ACP but can be significant in higher pressure cartridges. In a TEOTWAWKI
situation, re-annealing the brass (heating up and quenching) and case trimming
may be necessary to get the most life out of a given case.
Re-priming is simply the act of inserting a new appropriate size primer into
the brass case. This can be done either on the press, or with a handheld re-priming
tool. If I am using a single stage press (where each step is done on a batch
of brass before moving on to the next step), I prefer to use the handheld tool.
If I am using the progressive press, I leave it up to the press in its sequence
of events.
Case mouth belling is the process of slightly enlarging the case mouth to provide
ease of bullet insertion. This step is typically not necessary with boat-tailed
jacketed bullets, but is critical with cast lead bullets to prevent shaving
of the soft lead.
Powder charging is another critical step, similar to resizing. First, you need
a recipe. Good sources for a recipe are the powder manufacturers’ and
bullet manufacturers’ loading data books. The powder charge must be matched
to the cartridge, the weapon and the particular bullet. Load data will typically
list a starting load and a maximum load. You need to stay within these limits.
Variations within these limits looking for optimum accuracy is know as “working
up a load”, and is the source of a lot of enjoyment in these times prior
to TEOTWAWKI. Powder dispensing is usually done by adjusting the volume of
powder to give a specific weight charge. The ultimate in precision is accomplished
by hand weighing each charge, but volume dispensers are much more convenient
for routine reloading. Periodic checking of the weight of a “thrown” charge
is warranted to make sure your settings haven’t changed.
Bullet seating is simply the process of seating the bullet on the case mouth
and pushing it down into the neck (or the body in straight-walled ammunition)
so the cartridge OAL is within specification. Once the die is adjusted for
the correct depth, subsequent members of the batch will have the same length.
Following bullet seating, reforming the case mouth or crimping the bullet to
prevent movement under recoil may be necessary. There are two types of crimps.
Taper crimping simply smoothes out any belling and snug’s up the case
mouth like a turtle neck sweater. This is used in straight-walled ammunition
like pistol cartridges where you need the “step off” from brass
to bullet in order to headspace correctly. Roll crimping actually cinches up
the case mouth, much like a clothes belt, to provide purchase and prevent movement.
Bottleneck cartridges and rimmed revolver cartridges are usually roll crimped.
So what kind of supplies do I need to “roll my own” now or when
times get bad? Basic equipment would consist of:
Reloading manual.
Single stage press (Lee makes a nice, inexpensive one).
Die set for your caliber (available from several manufactures).
Powder/bullet weight scale.
Dial caliper/micrometer.
Hand priming tool.
Powder funnel
For the consumable supplies, I consider the amount needed for 1,000 rounds
of loaded ammunition. I choose this not only because it is a nice round (and
comforting) number, but because our weights are measured in grains and there
are 7000 grains in a pound. If you know the charge (or lead bullet) weight,
you simply divide the number by 7 to tell you how many pounds are needed to
make 1,000 rounds of ammunition. For example, if the charge weight of powder
is 35 grains, 35 divided by 7 equals 5, so I will need 5 pounds of powder to
make 1,000 rounds with that powder. If my bullet mold makes 230 grain bullets,
230 divided by 7 is slightly less than 33, so I will need 33 pounds of lead
to make 1,000 bullets.
For my logistics, I limit myself to “common caliber” ammunition.
For handguns, this means 9mm NATO and .45 ACP. For rifles, this means 5.56mm
NATO and 7.62mm NATO. For handgun reloading, I mostly use two moderately fast
powders both of which work fine for 9mm NATO and .45 ACP. These are Hodgdon
HP38 and Accurate #5 powders. These have similar burning rates, but the HP38
uses a significantly lighter charge which makes it more economical.
For rifle reloading, I choose two moderately slow powders both of which work
fine for 5.56mm NATO and 7.62mm NATO. These are Hodgdon H335 and Accurate 2230.
Likewise, the burning rates are close and charge weights nearly identical.
Since cast lead bullets are not appropriate for these rounds, you will obviously
need 1,000 jacketed bullets for either.
Supplies Needed for 1,000 Rounds by Caliber:
| Component |
.45 ACP |
9mm NATO |
7.62mm NATO |
5.56mm NATO |
| Casting Lead or Jacketed Bullets |
230 grains = 33 Pounds of Lead |
124 grains = 18 Pounds of Lead |
Need 1,000 FMJ Bullets |
Need 1,000 FMJ Bullets |
| Primers |
1,000 Large Pistol |
1,000 Small Pistol |
1,000 Large Rifle |
1,000 Small Rifle |
| Hodgdon Powder |
5.3 grains = 0.76 Pounds of HP38 |
4.4 grains = 0.63 Pounds of HP38 |
44 grains = 6.3 Pounds of H335 |
25 grains = 3.6 Pounds of H335 |
| Accurate Powder |
8.5 grains = 1.22 Pounds of AA #5 |
6.2 grains = 0.89 Pounds of AA #5 |
44 grains = 6.3 Pounds of AA 2230 |
25 grains = 3.6 Pounds of AA 2230 |
Like baking bread, reloading can be enjoyable and a real valuable skill in
bad times. The costs associated need not be excessive. - NC Bluedog
JWR Adds: While 5..56mm NATO and .223 Remington have quite similar case
dimensions and loading specifications, they are not completely interchangeable.
For example, it is not considered
safe to shoot commercial soft nose .223 loads in a semi--auto rifle chambered
for 5.56mm NATO. The same warning applies to 7.62mm NATO and.308 Winchester.
Use caution and use the appropriate safety equipment when
storing powder and primers, when reloading ammunition, and when
melting lead/bullet casting. Study
the standard safety warnings before you begin!
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Letter Re: The Potential Combat Effectiveness of Shotguns
Jim,
There is a
fairly heated discussion going on at the FALFiles Forums about how useful
a shotgun is in a Schumer Hits The Fan (SHTF) situation. I was curious, what
exactly is your take on the issue?
Personally, I do not feel a shotgun can effectively replace a rifle, however,
it still proves an effective tool when the extreme-close situation arises.
I suppose one can distill this argument down to only "defensive purpose" shotguns
such as those built for tactical situations (3" chambers and open/cylinder
choke),
those you aptly refer to as "riotguns". While the effectiveness of
a shotgun for hunting small game is readily apparent, where exactly would a defensive
shotgun come into play using either various types of buckshot or slugs?
In what circumstances would a shotgun be a superior choice to a battle or assault
rifle? Examples?
I, as well as many, value your opinion on the matter. Best Regards, -- Kyrottimus
JWR Replies: While semi-auto battle rifles are more practical
for most defensive shooting (most notably because of their capability at both short
and long range), riot shotguns can definitely be effective at short range.
In the dense North Woods, there is seldom any shooting beyond 50 yards, so
they are adequate there. (Riotguns can be effective to 40 yards with buckshot
and 90+ yards with slugs.) I also generally recommend riotguns for urbanites
that live in cities or states with harsh restrictions on semi-auto rifles.
In a city (again, range limited, by terrain) a repeating riotgun is generally
more useful than a bolt action rifle, so if those are your only options,
then go for a shotgun. But with all that said, assuming that you don't live
in a liberal fantasyland like New Jersey, if you only have the money to buy
one rifle (and the requisite training)., or one shotgun (and
the requisite training), then buy a semi-auto battle rifle!
With the addition of a spare "bird" barrel, shotguns can also be
useful for foraging, since they are the only effective means of wingshooting.
(And the only legal method, in many countries.)
Also, police have found that shotguns firing slugs can be more effective and
safer than a rifle, in the specialized task of removing a door from its hinges.
Speaking of which, building "entry" is incredibly dangerous, and
frankly I can't foresee the need of the average prepper to ever do so. But
you never know. There was that one chapter of "Patriots"...
A couple of provisos:
Despite popular misconceptions popularized by Hollywood, shotguns must be
aimed, much like a rifle. The bead sights that are installed on most shotgun
barrels are insufficient. I recommend either buying a replacement barrel with
rifle sights, or having these sights retrofitted.
Be sure to do some pattern
tests at various distances with your shotgun, using full-power buckshot
loads. (I generally prefer #4 buckshot--not to be confused with the much
smaller and and much more common #4 birdshot, which is a standard load for
duck hunting.) Even if you have a shotgun with a wide open "Cylinder
bore" (no choke), you may be surprised how tightly it shoots, especially
inside of 10 yards. Again, you can't just vaguely point, you have
to aim. If you plan to shoot slugs, again do some tests and zero
your gun's iron sights.
OBTW, I highly recommend the Four
Day Tactical Shotgun course taught by Front Sight.
This course builds skills, builds confidence, and dispels a lot of
myths.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Two Letters Re: Homemade Alcohol Stoves »
Letter Re: Reloading for 7.5 Swiss
Dear Jim,
Regarding East Tennessee Hillbilly's otherwise excellent summary of reloading:
In the back of the Arsenal of Democracy I keep a case of each caliber I shoot.
The 7.5 Swiss cartridge has a wider case, thicker base and thicker rim than
.308. I don't believe
it's possible to fabricate 7.5 Swiss cartridges from .308. - Michael
Z. Williamson
JWR Replies: I have read that .284
Winchester brass can be re-formed to 7.5 Swiss without much difficultly.
The same thread mentions that Graf & Sons sells
virgin Boxer-primed 7.5 Swiss brass that they had made up with their own
head stamp.
« Letter Re: Sword Ban Begins on April 6th in the United Kingdom |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Learn How to "Roll Your Own" Ammo
James;
One skill that will be in great demand by almost everyone in a post-TEOTWAWKI environment
will be a skilled and resourceful ammunition reloader. Equipment
is relatively
inexpensive and downright cheap if you know where to look. Pawn
shops almost never buy reloading equipment because it is slow and, or difficult
to move. I have made arrangements with a few pawn shop owners and when a batch
of reloading stuff comes available from estates they just give them my number.
No matter how much gear there is, a pawn shop will only offer, if they even
make an offer about a hundred bucks. I usually try to offer the widows a fair
price but in the end you are still buying for pennies on the dollar. Often
reloading gear will be given to you if you show an interest and a little respect.
It is an opportunity to acquire odd caliber dies, bullets, brass and often
large stores of powder. The old reloading books are great references for older
powders
that will still be usable if stored properly. Always store your powder in a cool,
dry and dark place. I am using some 30 year old powder that was stored this way
and it works just fine. One can never have too much powder, [too many primers,]
or
too many reloading
manuals.
Any gun shop that sells reloading equipment has free loading data provided my
the powder and bullet manufactures and these small books can be acquired by writing,
calling or going to the powder and bullet companies web sites. These are invaluable
resources as they try to show case how versatile their products can be and the
large reloading manuals will leave out some less than ideal powder, bullet, caliber
combinations that we may be forced to try some day simply because of space limitations
and the large manuals are somewhat expensive although necessary. Remember that
we are trying to make safe reliable ammo that will suffice for the purpose at
hand and we are not trying to come up with the perfect powder, bullet combo that
will better factory ballistics.
JWR is right when he suggests that you stock only common caliber ammo in large
quantities for yourself. However, there are still going to be quite
a few .32 Winchester Special, 38-55 and especially 30-30 Winchesters around that
will
need
ammunition
and
all
three of those caliber cases can be made from fired .30-30 cases. A host of
calibers can have their brass cases formed from the very common .30-06 such as
.270 Winchester and .25-06 just by sizing the necks down. The.308 Winchester
(7.62x51mm) is
the
parent case for .243 Win,..260 Rem, and 7mm-08. Simple neck resizing is all that
is necessary and all it takes is a little knowledge and the correct dies.
Much more elaborate cartridge conversions can be done by annealing the cartridge
brass (necks only--never the bases) simply by standing the cases in
an inch of water, heating them until red with a torch and then knocking them
over to cool
in the water. This softens the brass and makes splitting case necks less likely.
Brass work hardens as it is reloaded and this process is a useful skill to prolong
case life even for common calibers. Calibers like the 7.5x55mm Schmidt Rubin
in the well made Swiss [K31] rifles that have flooded the market the past few
years are easy to fabricate from the very common .308 Win cases if you know where
to
look for specs and the place to look is "The Handloaders Manual of Cartridge
Conversions"
by Donnelly & Towsley from Stoeger Publishing. It is a great resource and
it covers more than 1,000 cartridges in detail with accurate drawings, capacities
and dimensions. With this book a set of good calipers, micrometer and reloading
data there are very few calibers that one can not reloaded.
Anytime someone asks you if you want a small lot of odd caliber of brass take
it and clean, sort and store it. It doesn't matter if you don't have a gun in
that caliber, someone, somewhere will or it might be used to create cases for
another caliber There are only four sizes of boxer primers so stock up on those.
Large rifle, small rifle, large pistol and small pistol and don't worry about
magnum primers just use one of the hotter standard primers such as Winchester
's Stainless. The only caveat here is gas auto loading rifles should only use
CCI #34 or #41 hard military primers to prevent slam fires.
There are some powders that are very versatile and can be used for many calibers,
for example Unique handgun powder can be used for just about every pistol caliber.
It might not be the perfect choice for certain cartridges but it would certainly
serve the purpose.
Reloading skills can be bartered for other things because a firearm without ammunition
doesn't even make a good club. As charity you might be the only person that can
give a family a means of self defense by reloading ammo for them that is impossible
to obtain any other way.
Since you can't reload .22 rimfire ammo, buy a couple of the 550 round boxes
every time that you are at Wal-Mart, or mail order 5,000 round. cases. This is
something
that
almost everyone can afford. While you are making connections at the pawn shops
pick up some used .22 rifles, I often can buy Glenfield and Marlin autos for
less than 50 bucks apiece if I shop in the spring and avoid the 1st and 15th
of the month and go on the first of the week. Pawn shop owners are more likely
to cut you a deal at these times because of cash flow. What a great trade item
or gift to some deserving but unprepared family
Bullet casting equipment is often included with reloading equipment and this
simple skill is another arrow in your quiver. The
Cast Bullet Association has
a free forum that has a wealth of knowledge and any question
that you have will be answered by the top experts in this field in an informative
and entertaining way. Cast bullets were used for all hunting and war purposes
for centuries before jacketed bullets came along in the late 1800s. You will
notice that some of the cast bullet rifle shooters are getting 10 shot groups
around an inch at 200 yards! I assure you that my efforts have never been that
amazing but then I'm not a top competitor.
Making bullets and reloading ammo could make your talents very sought after over
a fairly large geographic area so be prudent about your security measures.
Word of your skills might bring about many barter opportunities that otherwise
might be impossible. As charity, you might save an entire family's lives for
very little investment of resources and we all want to help the good guys out
if we
can. Folks will want to insure your safety if you have built up
a
relationship
with them and provide a necessary service.
I have an extensive list of reloading equipment but have invested less than the
cost
of
a FAL or M1A.
I've been at this for almost 40 years now and have taught Boy Scouts, housewives,
service veterans, preachers or anyone that asked the necessary
skills to produce quality ammunition. Several times I have been given firearms
simply because ammo was unavailable and I haven't failed to produce good safe
ammo for any gun yet. Get your beans, bullets and band-aids in order first, and
then get started looking for the tools and acquire the skills to become the community
Ammo Cobbler. - East Tennessee Hillbilly
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Letter Re: Choosing a State for Relocation
James,
To follow up on Mike
Williamson's recent letter on choosing a state for relocation,
the April 2008 issue of Outdoor
Life magazine
has a good article on the best 200 towns in the U.S. for hunters and fishermen.
The
towns
were
rated for:
Abundant Fishable Species
Abundant Huntable Species
Public Land Proximity (This may or may not be a good thing,
IMHO.)
Trophy Potential
Gun Laws
From 1 to 10, the top 10 towns rated were:
Mountain Home, Arkansas
Lewsiton, Idaho
Sheridan, Wyoming
Cody, Wyoming
Pocatello, Idaho
Lewistown, Montana
Marquette, Michigan
Dillon, Montana
Page, Arizona
Bismark, North Dakota
They also list an additional 200 more towns. You may or may not agree with
their ratings, but if an abundance of wild game and fish are important to you
now, or during a SHTF event, this is a good list to hang on to.
Both Field and Stream, and Outdoor Life have upgraded their
quality of late, and are well worth the subscription prices. Wait for the sales,
you
may
get
them for a dollar per issue. I am seeing more and more prep and survival articles
in both magazines. Perhaps the editors actually "get it"? I can't
say, but they're both worth a look. If you don't want to subscribe, check them
out at your local library. Best Regards, - Florida Guy
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Letter Re: Which .22 Ammo to Store--High Velocity or Subsonic?
Jim,
You mentioned the following in
your List of Lists:
"WTSHTF,
ammo will be worth nearly its weight in silver. Store all of your ammo in military
surplus ammo cans (with seals that are still soft)
and it will store for decades. Stick to common calibers, get plenty of .22 LR
(most
high velocity hollow points)."
High velocity .22 rimfire can be heard from a long way off. Would human predators
stalk you
and close in for the kill? Think stealth after the SHTF.
Here are some figures:
High velocity 22 40 grain @ 1,250 fps (hypersonic) = 136 foot pounds of energy
CCI 22 CB Long 29 grain @ 720 fps= 33 foot pounds of energy
Aguila SSS 60 grain @ 950 = 120 foot pounds of energy
Remington subsonic 38 grain @ 1,000 = 95 foot pounds of energy
Please take the time to read Tossing "Rocks" -
Shooting Subsonic .22s,
-- a comparison of four subsonic 22 rounds.
JWR Replies: There is some value in buying subsonic ammo,
for stealthy pest and small game shooting. If that is your goal, then buy the
Aguila SSS Subsonic. These are like CB caps on steroids. They are very quiet.
A quantity of 500 to 1,000 rounds
should suffice. Subsonic "target" ammo is made in small quantities,
so it can literally be
twice to six times as expensive as the mass-produced high
velocity .22 rimfire varieties. The
Aguila SSS, currently sells for $4.49 for a box of 50,
even
from
a discount mail order
dealer
like
Midway! (Expect even higher prices in retail gun shops.)
For barter purposes, (your largest stockpile), buy high velocity,
factory
name brand (Winchester or Remington) hollow points. In actuality,
standard 40 grain round nose has almost identical terminal effects as a hollow
point.
(The hollow nose looks great for marketing purposes, but at typical rimfire velocities,
it
doesn't case significantly increased expansion.) But since the majority of your
barter customers will not be ballistics experts, they will assume that hollow
points
are somehow "better" and hence they will likely be willing to allow
more in trade
for
them.
If you are going to store both subsonic and hypersonic rimfire ammo for your
own use, then do some extensive testing with each of your .22 pistols and rifles.
Accuracy can vary substantially, so match your rifles to their most accurate
cartridges. The point of impact ("bullet drop") will also
vary considerably when switching ammo, necessitating re-zeroing. If
you have numerous
.22s
rifles,
then you might consider making one of them with a scope your "dedicated" platform
for shooting subsonic ammo. Zero it in carefully for use with one particular
type of ammunition, and mark the rifle accordingly . (For example, an adhesive
sticker on the scope marked "Zeroed for PMC Moderator Subsonic.")
Consider this: If you are in a situation
where
bad
guys head toward the sound of gunfire, then you had better
have something a lot more powerful than a .22 rimfire rifle in
your hands when they arrive.
In
an absolute worst case scenario, where you don't want to attract any attention,
pest or small game shooting with a high-power .22 or .25 caliber air
rifle is both quieter and less expensive than
shooting with subsonic .22 rimfire ammunition. For survival shooting, I prefer
manually pimped models, rather than CO2-powered. If money is no object, then
get something like a Beeman R1 .22 Double Gold or
perhaps
even
a Weihrauch
HW 100S.
These are available from Pyramid
Air (one of our affiliate advertisers), and several other Internet vendors.
Compared to the cost of shooting expensive subsonic ammunition like Aguila
SSS, even an expensive air rifle will pay
for itself after
shooting
just a few thousand
rounds. If you are on a budget, then Get a Gamo Big Cat, or Gamo
Carbine Sport. Both of those use .22 pellets. For
a medium budget, a Walther Falcon Hunter (either .22 or .25 caliber, around
$270) is a good choice.
The other advantage of air rifles is that you can legally conduct target practice
inside city limits, in most jurisdictions. While no substitute for
high power rifle shooting, indoor practice with an air rifle can help maintain
your
shooting skills in winter months.
« "Official" Statistics on Population, Employment, Income Levels, Money Supply, and Inflation? |Main| Credit Collapse: The Depression Countdown Begins »
Letter Re: Battle Rifle Recommendations for a Californian
Mr. Rawles,
I am a resident of the People's Republic of Kalifornia (PRK).
I'm looking to buy a main battle rifle (MBR).
My rifle collection currently consists of a few .22 rimfires and a [Federally
exempt antique Model] 1893 Mauser, which I purchased on your recommendation
from The Pre-1899
Specialist.
It seems as though most of the [firearms design] features one would look
for are restricted (if not outright banned) here [in California]. My question
for you is, what would you suggest for a California resident's MBR?. Thanks,
- C3
in
CA.
JWR Replies: California does have some almost unbearable
"assault weapons" restrictions. OBTW, I'm fond of saying that the
only "assault"
going on is against our Constitutional rights.
Unless you plan to move out of
the state soon, I'd recommend that you buy one or two FN49
rifles. This was
a very robust post-WWII semi-auto rifle design. Most FN49s have fixed 10 round
magazines that are filled from the top, via stripper clips. The ideal choice
would
be the detachable magazine Argentine Navy variant chambered in 7.62mm NATO.
These are presently around $1,200 each. But if you are on a budget, FN49s
were also
made in
several other calibers including .30-06, 7.65mm Argentine Mauser, 7x57mm
Mauser, and 8x57mm Mauser. The latter were made for an Egyptian contract are
the least expensive variants. These can
sometimes
be found for around $750. An 8mm Mauser, would of course also give
you cartridge
commonality
with
your Turkish
contract pre-1899
antique Mauser. Regardless of what you buy, be sure to inspect
the bore and chamber condition carefully before purchasing a military
surplus rifle. Many of the Mauser cartridges and most
of the older lots of .30-06 were made with corrosive
priming, which causes bore pitting.
OBTW, up until a couple of years ago, I would have first recommended getting
an M1
Garand rifle. Unfortunately, they have recently become quite collectible
and
prices
have jumped up to the $1,000 to $1,500 price range. Spare parts have also become
quite
expensive. My advice to Californians: If you can find an M1
Garand with a nice bore for under $900, jump on it!
« Letter Re: Propane Heat and PV Power Solutions for RVs and Trailers |Main| Note from JWR: »
The Four Gs Update: Have You Got God?, Groceries?, Guns?, Gold?
In the next few paragraphs I'll be tackling four issues that for many years,
I've labelled "The Four Gs." One of my contemporaries, Richard "Doc" Sweeny,
even made the concept into and acronym: GGGG,
for "God,
Gold, Guns, and Groceries."
God.
I consider faith in God the cornerstone of my family's preparedness. Faith in God's sovereign control of the future gives my family hope and peace in these troubled times. If there is no hope, then why prepare? Our hope is in Christ Jesus.
Groceries.
There are continuing reports of shortages around
the country of wheat flour, corn meal, rice, and cooking oil at some of the "big
box:" stores
such as COSTCO and
Sam's Club. This phenomenon is not uniform. Some readers tell me that
it is "business at usual" at their local stores, while others report "one
bag per customer" rationing signs have been posted, and a few report empty
shelves. With galloping wholesale prices and shortages at the wholesale level,
I expect these spot
shortages to continue.
I've had a half dozen anxious e-mails from readers in the past week, complaining
that their storage food orders have been delayed, that they can't get a
firm answer on delivery dates from the vendors, or that the vendors won't even
return their calls or e-mails. In nearly all of these instances, the
companies in question are not SurvivalBlog advertisers. I've
heard from several vendors that the big packing and canning outfits like Mountain
House and Alpen Aire are essentially sold out of stock on hand, and
that their order backlogs are at least 30 days, and growing. The problem is
that in "normal" times, these companies serve a "niche" clientele.
They just aren't scaled to handle the order volume when more than 1% or 2%
of the population places orders. I witnessed a similar situation back in 1999,
just before the Y2K rollover.
Some good news that I can mention is that several of our advertisers such as Ready
Made Resources actually still have some storage food on hand.
It is actually on the shelf ("in captivity") and ready to ship. For
any of their items that are back ordered, just be patient. You may
have to wait four to six weeks. The other good news I can offer is
that our advertisers all have good reputations. (If they didn't, then they
would not be allowed to advertise on SurvivalBlog.) The most reputable food
storage vendors will not bill your credit card until the day that your
order is actually shipped. Beware of small "fly by night" vendors
that don't keep any inventory on hand and that will bill your credit card weeks
ahead of when they know they can ship. If you buy from a vendor that is not a
SurvivalBlog advertiser, my advice is simple: pick your order up in person
only from
stock on hand, and pay cash on the spot. If you are taking delivery
personally, then there is no need to leave a paper trail. Buying with a credit
card is advised, in instances where immediate delivery is not promised.
In that case, your credit card's "charge back" buyer protection policy
could protect you if you are
defrauded. Keep in mind, however, that a charge back complaint often must be
made within 30 days of the time of purchase.
Guns.
The next presidential election is huge question mark:
Will the Democrats take the White House? And if they do, will another so-called "assault
weapons"
and "high capacity" magazine ban be legislated in the US? (Something
similar to the
1994-to-2004 Federal ban.) At present, these possibilities are
difficult to predict. But even if the "worst
case" (namely,
another ban with no sunset
clause) doesn't come to pass, I still consider battle rifles, full capacity
magazines, and ammunition to be good investments and excellent barter items.
If nothing else,
like other nonperishable tangibles, they are good hedges on the falling dollar.
Stock up, but do so quietly. If it is legal to do so in your jurisdiction,
make all your gun purchases from private parties with no paper trail. Keep
your eye on the local newspaper classified ads, as well as ads from sellers
in your own state on GunBroker.com (on-line
auctions) or GunsAmerica.com (fixed
price sales--usually more expensive) Search only for
sellers from your own state. That way, you won't run afoul of the Federal law
that prohibits
the transfer of
a modern
(post-1898)
gun
across state lines,
except
through a FFL dealer. It might also be worth your time
to drive long distances to some of the larger gun
shows in your own state. Once there,
you should of course buy guns only from private parties.
The upcoming Heller
v. US supreme court decision should be interesting. I suspect
that instead of striking down all Federal gun laws--which they rightfully
should--the supreme court justices will pen a decision that is tightly worded
and hence will only apply to just that one gun ban in the District of Columbia.
OBTW, for any of you that think that my advocacy of gun ownership and training
is somehow un-Christian, all that I can do is direct you to Christ's
words in Luke 22:36.
Gold.
I'm addressing gold last, for a reason. You've undoubtedly
seen the recent headlines like this one: Gold
at $1,000 on Weak Dollar, High Oil. Keep in mind that $1,000 is a psychological
barrier. This might trigger some profit taking that could push the spot price
of gold down as far as $920 per ounce. Take advantage of such dips. However,
don't get caught up in precious metals buying fever. Your key responsibility
is to provide
for your family, not to be a speculator. Don't even
think about investing any of your money in precious metals until after you
have all of your crucial "beans, bullets, and Band-Aids" preparations
well in hand. If you don't have an honest one year
food supply, then stop wasting your time hitting reload at the
Kitco web site! (You probably won't get the web page to load with any regularity
anyway. The recent spike in gold and silver prices have generated so much web
traffic that it has nearly crashed Kitco's server. You might have better luck
at
the Swiss
America web
site.)
Remember: You can't eat gold! There may come a day when you
need to barter for day-to-day essentials. In such times, barter goods
like common caliber ammunition or one-gallon cans of kerosene will be more
sought-after than gold. Recognize precious metals for what they are: storehouses
of wealth and hedges on the dollar. Think of them as a "time machine".
They can be trusted to preserve your wealth from one side of an economic collapse
to the other.But do not expect them to keep your family fed
in the midst of a socioeconomic collapse.
An afterthought: Perhaps I should add a fifth "G"", for Ground.
I have long been a proponent of buying productive farm land. The nationwide
market for real estate
is clearly in
a tailspin, and probably won't bottom for several more years. But I firmly
believe that the price declines will not be nearly as significant for good
farm ground.
Just be sure to be a wise buyer. Study local markets thoroughly (including soil
surveys), and don't feel rushed into making a purchase. In today's
market, time is on your side. I now recommend keeping a close eye on foreclosures,
using services like Foreclosures.com or RealtyTrac.com.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Consider Volunteering at a Homeless Shelter »
Letter Re: .22 Rimfire Kits for Battle Rifle Training
Hello, Mr. Rawles.
On your advice I read Boston’s Gun Bible and became
convinced that I should get a .308 rifle. I bought the HK91,
mostly on faith since I have never shot, let alone owned, a FAL,
M1A,
or
AR-10.
No one I know has any of these. And with ammo prices going up as much as they
have,
I decided to get the .22 [Long Rifle rimfire] conversion kit for the HK91.
I paid a little under $500 (they were $400 a couple months ago, and there were
a lot
more available.) But since .22 ammo is so much cheaper than .308 ammo, I figured
that the conversion kit would pay for itself after shooting about 1200 rounds
of .22 instead of
.308. I realize that practicing using the .22 conversion kit only comes so
close to shooting .308, but I can still practice weapons familiarity, using
the sights, trigger pull, etc.
When I first shot .22 [rimfire] through the HK91 I wasn’t sure the round
left the chamber. The weapon barely moved, since shooting a measly .22 round
is
nothing for the rifle. This actually was something I really liked, because
I could get used to firing the weapon and avoiding bad habits like, flinching,
or jerking. I only had four malfunctions when I shot about 700 rounds of
.22: one was from a dud, and three were mag feed problems (all with the second
to the top round in the magazine, something with the spring I suppose). Shooting
.22 through the HK91 was very accurate! I had thought that the conversion
kit might be okay for beginners and I was expecting it to malfunction once
in awhile, since the weapon was not really designed for it. So I was very happy
that it was all so reliable. Obtaining the .22 conversion kit was not a factor
in my decision to get an HK91, but it would be now if I were to do it again.
I haven’t seen too many conversion kits for other .308 battle rifles,
so I take it as a big plus that I can get an original HK conversion kit that
is super reliable. I think it’s a great way not only to save money with
weapons practice, it might also help others move into using my HK91 by starting
them off using the lower caliber conversion kit.
I have decided to get all original HK parts and accessories. The quality I’ve
experienced is worth it. I realize that other rifles, like the M1A, may be
more accurate, but at my skill level, I don’t think it really matters.
I’m
still practicing using iron sights at 100 yards. Plus, I want mine to go boom
(and hit the target) when I pull the trigger. I prefer revolvers for the same
reason. If I were a better shooter, accuracy would probably be a bigger factor.
If I were better at combat reloading, then I might like the FAL more. I also
don’t have the money, and maybe time, to make many modifications to my
weapons, so I really like how everything about the HK91 just plain works out-of-the
box. I haven’t heard of anyone suggesting making modifications
to it at all. I was thinking about getting different scopes (like one for night
vision, another for daylight) and getting a separate STANAG claw
mount for each one. I figured that way I could change scopes on my HK91 and
have them
all retain zero, but I’d like your opinion on that.
I appreciate your blog and I have taken the challenge to donate 10
cents a day because I
have learned so much. However I don’t think I’ll
ever be nearly as skilled, knowledgeable, or equipped as some of your other
readers. I won’t be able to get that secluded property, I won’t
be able to get a battery of weapons or make nice modifications to them, I won’t
be able to get a converted 4-wheeler that runs on vegetable oil, at least not
anytime soon, but I am staying out of debt, and I am keeping my ear to the
ground and staying nimble for whatever comes down the road. I have recognized
that a skill that I have lacked is that of a rifleman, and I am trying to become
one, both for my family and my fellow countrymen. Thanks, - A Rifleman in Training
JWR Replies: You are to be commended from you efforts! Get
some training from experts. Even if you can't a afford a trip to Front
Sight,
keep in mind that both the RWVA/Appleseed
Project. and the Western
Rifle Shooters Association (WRSA) offer inexpensive but very effective
training for riflemen.
In
addition to the HK sub-caliber kit that you mentioned, there are .22 rimfire
kits available
for
a variety
of .223
rifles
including the AR-15/M4
family
and the Ruger Mini-14. Similar kits were also made for FALs and L1A1s, but
sadly they are very expensive. With the current high cost of most centerfire
ammunition, buying a .22 kit makes a lot
of
sense. I
have
also
found
that
being able
to shoot
.22 rimfire through a battle rifle is useful for transitioning youths to
high power
shooting.
The original HK claw
mounts have
fairly
consistent
return to zero, so I do indeed recommend them.
« Letter Re: Are Simultaneous Inflation and Deflation Possible? |Main| Note from JWR: »
Arm Thyself, by William Buppert
President Bush has embarked on the final phase of Pax Americana and is ushering
in an advanced imperial stage that will endanger every living American. The
coming election will assure us that every American will have his Second Amendment
rights infringed or predated upon in some fashion no matter which party succeeds
(is there a difference except the spelling?). Perennial readers of this site
are better versed than most in the predatory nature of the state and its ability
to target and vilify those it wishes to eliminate eventually whether through
political neutralization such as Trent Lott or lethal means such as Waco or
Ruby Ridge. I'd like to focus this essay on the practical application of what
Boston T. Party refers to as "liberty's teeth" or small arms. There
are plenty of organizations like Jews
for the Preservation of Firearms Ownership (JPFO) and Gun Owners of America
(GOA) which will provide you with all the intellectual
ammunition you need to know why you should be armed; I want to tell you how.
I want to offer a bare-bones primer on how to get started in amassing your
personal armory (contrary to what the government says, an arsenal is where
weapons are manufactured) and using the weapons you obtain. I have a military
background that spans two decades, shoot competitively and currently instruct
tactical firearms so I have left the armchair a few times.
There are plenty of sites from which you can obtain this information but I
wanted to provide a fairly painless gateway to get started if you are beginning
from ground zero. The black helicopter crowds are chockfull of hunker-down
survivalist information which for the most part suffers from their barely hidden
desire for the apocalypse to occur coupled with their propensity to be armchair
enthusiasts unfettered by real world application of firepower. On the other
end of the spectrum, you have the nation's largest gun prohibition organization,
the National Rifle Association, selling plenty of safety-oriented gun practices
(while winking lustfully at the Beltway media and other hoplophobes) and ignoring
any martial aspects of weapons or gun handling the Founders wrote the Second
Amendment for in the first place.
1. Establish a mindset much like the Flinters in F.
Paul Wilson's novels. Fully
embrace the initiated
non-aggression principle. This is not a call for armed
revolt or insurrection. This is summed up as leave me alone or else. Whether
you own weapons now or not, you should be fully decided that when, not if,
the government comes around to seize them you will relinquish them one round
at a time. Or you have had the foresight to properly cache spares and you can
hand over that Lee Harvey Oswald Carcano to the nice young men in black ninja
suits who are from the government and just want to help you. If you have any
doubt about that, stop reading this and take any weapons you now own and donate
them to a paleo-conservative or libertarian who cares. You may continue reading
if liberty means more than lip service. The right to self-defense should be
beyond question to this audience.
2. If you bought one book on the subject, buy Boston T. Party's book, "Boston's
Gun Bible" (revised April 2002). Hey, we're on LRC,
you always want a book on the subject. As a matter of fact, this logical and
sound compendiu
